# OK....let's play name that algae!



## Centromochlus (May 19, 2008)

Higher temps seem to be a factor in algae growth, so i'd lower it if you didn't have discus. But i guess that really isn't an option. 

The plant in the bottom picture is a java fern (_Microsorum pteropus_). Make sure to keep the rhizome (the bottom "log"-like part of the plant where the leaves come out of) out of the substrate, or else it will rot. It is best tied to a piece of rock or driftwood. You can also put it in the substrate, as long as the rhizome is not buried (the roots can be buried without issues). Java ferns, as well as anubias, are prone to massive amounts of algae because they grow relatively slow.

Here's a good article w/ illustrated pictures about freshwater algaes:
http://www.aquahobby.com/articles/e_freshwater_algae.php

Looks like you may have a combination of GSA (green spot algae), staghorn algae, and diatoms (brown algae). Any type of nerite snail will eat GSA, _Otocinclus affinis_ ("otos") will eat diatoms, and staghorn can be killed via direct dosing of Flourish Excel. Basically with the excel, you load it up in a syringe and shoot it directly onto the staghorn algae. You will know that it is dead when it turns a distinctive red color, which will likely happen within a few days after dosing the excel. If you decide to pick up some flourish excel, you must be VERY careful when dosing it because it can be deadly to fish if overdosed. Staghorn algae is caused by lack of sufficient water current, low co2, and inconsistent nutrient levels.

So overall, here's what i'd do:

Pick up a bottle of Flourish Excel, and start squirting it on the staghorn algae. Flourish excel is also a great fertilizer to regularly dose if used with caution, but you probably shouldn't start dosing the whole tank while your killing the algaes with it.
Try to get some otos and nerite snails. Otos are relatively cheap ($1-$2 per), so start out with maybe 10 and work your way up to 20 or so. They are a little more sensitive to water parameters than other fish, but if you get healthy ones then they should be fine as long as you float and drip-acclimate them. They LOVE to eat diatoms! As for the nerites, probably should start out with 5-10 and see what they can do for you. Most LFS do not carry nerites unless they specialize in (or at least have) a plant department. 
If you don't have any already (and if your water isn't being moved around very much), pick up one or two power heads and place them on each side of the aquarium. Your plants should be moving with the flow, but there shouldn't be so much flow that they're being blown around. I highly recommend the koralia power heads.
Your aquarium might also benefit from a reduced photo period. Try keeping the lights on for 6 hours instead of 8 and see if that helps at all.
Also, i've found that Florida Flagfish seem to eat many different types of algae. I put 11 in my 150g about a week ago and almost all of my hair algae is gone. They seem to occasionally snack on other types of algae too (Black beard algae, staghorn, etc).
Hope this helps!


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## Herbicidal (Aug 3, 2010)

Thanks AZFishKid for a very thorough reply! The link you included has tons of great info too!


Based upon what you replied with, I think I will do the following:

Reduce the light to 6 hours per day.
Get additional Oto's (I have two, the others died :icon_frow) and sloooowly acclimate them to the tank.
Gather more info about the Nerite snails and most likely order some.
Gather more info about the Florida Flag fish.
I have a Rena XP3 and an XP4 so I have good water movement throughout the aquarium. I observed the plants last night and the plants are gently moving around with the flow, not stagnant. I'll double check the planted "depth" to ensure the rhizome is not buried. For the moment, I'm going to keep Excel in the back of my mind and try these other things first.

Thanks again for the info and taking the time to write it all up. roud:


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## captain_bu (Oct 20, 2007)

You also shouldn't bury the rhizome of anubias plants, hard to see if yours is attached to anything or if it is planted in the substrate. Usually easy to remove the brown diatoms by rubbing if you get to them early on. Agree that most of the other algae pictured is staghorn.

The suggestions on how to kill/control algae using fish and snails are helpful but will not solve the problem you are having.

I think you have enough light over the tank that you need a source of carbon (preferably pressurized CO2 but you can try Excel) and need to dose comprehensive ferts. Growing healthy plants is the best defense against algae problems. Learn to grow plants and algae goes away.

here is another good link for algae identification/information.

http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/


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## Herbicidal (Aug 3, 2010)

Thank you too Captain_Bu. Understood about the rhizome, it is not buried. I think I'm missing how does CO2 prevent algae?  (I'm sure this is a total newbie question) I've been mentally going back and forth on whether to 'step up' to a CO2, high tech, high light planted tank with ferts and the whole nine yards or not. Or maybe I should avoid plants that are susceptible to algae growing on them.

Thanks for the continuing education! roud:


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