# I am back, co2 equipment questions pl post here



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

First of all, didn't have time to work on any co2 equipment in the last couple month, will reply all pms in a couple days and operation will continue.

5BodyBlade, and 150EH were the last two customers had been greatly affected by my laggy performance after I temporarily stepped away, really sorry about what happen and they've received the parts they ordered.

any questions about what to use, and how to put the parts together, please post here, thanks.


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

Wb


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

thanks, is the clippard mouse solenoid working ok on your co2 unit?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> First of all, didn't have time to work on any co2 equipment in the last couple month, will reply all pms in a couple days and operation will continue.
> 
> 5BodyBlade, and 150EH were the last two customers had been greatly affected by my laggy performance after I temporarily stepped away, really sorry about what happen and they've received the parts they ordered.
> 
> any questions about what to use, and how to put the parts together, please post here, thanks.


You can't have a link to your sales threads in your signature anymore. 

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=182632


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

thanks, just came back, didn't aware of the new rules.


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## ryu1 (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi bettatail, here is my paintball regulator mentioned in PM. Can you tell me what parts are needed to convert it to use for a cylinder beside cga 320 stem? I will be using it with a jbj bubble counter which I have that goes with the needle valve.


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## crice8 (Aug 2, 2012)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Im going to order a Reg today finally to setup a small pressurized co2 on my 20 gallon planted tank. Which should I order or do you have another suggestion within the same price range?


http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-Inst...ywords=aquatek

http://www.amazon.com/Premium-AQUATE...atek+regulator

or I also found this one,

http://www.amazon.com/U-P-Aqua-Regua...=co2+regulator


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

ryu1 said:


> Hi bettatail, here is my paintball regulator mentioned in PM. Can you tell me what parts are needed to convert it to use for a cylinder beside cga 320 stem? I will be using it with a jbj bubble counter which I have that goes with the needle valve.


I am not really sure what is the cylinder you refer to, if it is paintball cylinder, you can get an adapter, google it you will find whole bunch.

I think your needle valve is 10-32 female port, you need a 10-32 hex connector and a 10-32 to 1/8 NPT bushing.

If your system is pictured vertical position(paintball tank), you only need the above 10-32 fittings. As for horizontal position, you can add an 1/8 female NPT to 1/8 male NPT elbow between the regulator and the solenoid.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

crice8 said:


> --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Im going to order a Reg today finally to setup a small pressurized co2 on my 20 gallon planted tank. Which should I order or do you have another suggestion within the same price range?
> 
> ...


I prefer not to answer this kind of question here, since I sell co2 systems myself and it is better to stay away from this kind of discussion(which to buy).
It is your choice to get what you think is the best, just do enough research and dig around TPT, there are plenty of topics about what to choose.
If you want to modify or put up a system yourself, questions are welcome in this thread.


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## crice8 (Aug 2, 2012)

Well maybe I can just purchase one from you(= pm coming your way


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## robiray (Aug 23, 2012)

*CO2 consumption duration*

I have a 5.5 lb tank serving a 62 gallon with a bubble rate of roughly 4-5 bps, 24 x 7. How long do you think, it should last ?
Apparently, I had a leak in one of the joints until today, and fortunately, my dad helped me solve that. And, the results are +ve, as per your leak check test guidelines.

Thanks,
Robi.


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## mr2 (Jul 31, 2010)

See where I broke my bubble counter off? I tried to get the piece out and just get a new bubble counter but it is impossible so I threw it out. I just need another solenoid and bubble counter and whatever you call the silver piece the solenoid mounts to. Basically I need everything that screws into the regulator.


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## snuffy317 (May 30, 2012)

Looks like there's enough left to get an ez out into. Or any tool to get a bite in the softer brass and back it out.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

mr2 said:


>


Ouch. That sucks.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

mr2 said:


> See where I broke my bubble counter off? I tried to get the piece out and just get a new bubble counter but it is impossible so I threw it out. I just need another solenoid and bubble counter and whatever you call the silver piece the solenoid mounts to. Basically I need everything that screws into the regulator.


The metering valve is broken from the connection port stem, need a replacement of a new metering valve, or modify the port on the broken valve.
pm'ed.


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## mr2 (Jul 31, 2010)

snuffy317 said:


> Looks like there's enough left to get an ez out into. Or any tool to get a bite in the softer brass and back it out.[/QUOThereSy, maybe there was until I mangled it trying everything to get it out, I destroyed it in the process trying to drill it out as a last ditch effort. It's in the trash now, hopefully bettatail can get me the part so I can get it up and running.


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## antiquefloorman (Oct 8, 2011)

Hey Guys,
I need some advice on controllers. Currently using the SMS 122. Is the the mc 122 better?? What are your recommendationS??
Thanks,
Tim


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## snuffy317 (May 30, 2012)

*To bad*



mr2 said:


> snuffy317 said:
> 
> 
> > Looks like there's enough left to get an ez out into. Or any tool to get a bite in the softer brass and back it out.[/QUOThereSy, maybe there was until I mangled it trying everything to get it out, I destroyed it in the process trying to drill it out as a last ditch effort. It's in the trash now, hopefully bettatail can get me the part so I can get it up and running.
> ...


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## mr2 (Jul 31, 2010)

are you there bettatail?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

mr2 said:


> are you there bettatail?


Pm'ed


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

antiquefloorman said:


> Hey Guys,
> I need some advice on controllers. Currently using the SMS 122. Is the the mc 122 better?? What are your recommendationS??
> Thanks,
> Tim


not sure, I don't have experience with PH controller, don't need it anyway...


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## mr2 (Jul 31, 2010)

Bettatail is getting me the parts I need! I finally just got my milwaulke regulator that I am going to use in the meantime and let me tell you, you get what you pay for. With bettatails system I always have perfect performance, it holds the bubble count like a Swiss clock... But the cheap milwalke reg Just won't hold 5 bps no matter how many times I set it, and it just feels so cheap i doubt it would last a year.


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## Lotto (Apr 9, 2009)

I wanted to post here to see if I got this post-body kit connection stuff all right. Using oldpunk78's 'How to build a regulator guide' (great guide!) I tried my hand at it.

Here's what I got so far:










All the parts (with regulator disassembled and cleaned)










This is my mock-up body kit. I think everything's in order as far as connections go but I wanted to post in here just to make sure. I plan to put teflon tape on the connections when I put it all together but I'm still waiting on my CO2 canister to arrive. Also is the green tubing that's coming out from the needle valve supposed to be replaced with different tubing or is it fine to attach a check valve to the end of it (is the clear plastic tip a check valve?)? Thanks for the help in advance


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

If I'm not mistaken, I believe you would connect your regular tubing to the end of that green tubing. (then put the check valve in where ever) I think that's Betta's solution for going from an 1/8" tube connection (on the metering valve) to our standard co2 tubing. I wouldn't mess with it until he clarifies this. 

Post pics when you're done!


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

MODERATOR NOTE:

Just a quick reminder to keep the topic focused on the products, vendor reviews of any sort (both positive and negative) are not allowed.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Lotto said:


> All the parts (with regulator disassembled and cleaned)


please no vendor review, don't mention where you get the parts neither.
only list the parts and questions on how to put them together, it is adequate.

Did you use the small bottle of threadlocker sealant? That thing works better than the teflon tape, use less than a drop to cover at least three threads on the fittings.

Here is an order of putting the parts together:

1. CGA 320 nipple and nut to the regulator, use teflon tape on this part.
2. high pressure gauge to the regulator
3. 1/4 to 1/8 bushing to the regulator.
4. 1/8 nipple and elbow to the bushing.
5. manifold to the elbow, over turn it a little bit so you have clearance to screw on the metering valve.
6. metering valve to the manifold, control the torque, don't over do it, make sure the metering valve is at upright position.
7. turn the manifold back a little bit, the metering valve should face front.
8. screw the solenoid on to the manifold(no threadlocker sealant, the o-rings on the solenoid seal well)
9. connect the air hose to the air hose adapter at the end of the green tubing.
10. lower pressure gauge to the regulator.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> If I'm not mistaken, I believe you would connect your regular tubing to the end of that green tubing. (then put the check valve in where ever) I think that's Betta's solution for going from an 1/8" tube connection (on the metering valve) to our standard co2 tubing. I wouldn't mess with it until he clarifies this.
> 
> Post pics when you're done!


thanks for join.

The green tube(polyurethane, 0-120 psi) with the reducer/adapter can be replaced by a 

1.
1/8 OD tube end to 1/8 hose barb adapter, 
2.
1/8 OD tube end to 1/4 OD push and pull quick connector
3.
1/8 OD tube end to 1/4 OD compression tube adapter.
4.
or simply a short section of 1/8 OD metal tube, the air hose with 1/8 ID, will seal well.

The green tube was originally on that metering valve, a tubing insert is not necessary for 1/8 OD port (same as 1/4 OD port, the insert no needed if the air hose is thick polyurethane or other hard plastic. Silicone or any similar soft air hose, need the air hose insert, and any compression tube port larger than 1/4 OD, need air hose insert for air hose connection.)


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## Lotto (Apr 9, 2009)

Thanks for the responses! I'm still waiting on the CO2 canister so I won't be able to post the complete setup just yet. It should be arriving sometime tomorrow, then I gotta get it filled at a local air gas shop. I can't seem to get the needle valve to stand completely upright, is it fine if it's just slightly tilted or does it have to be completely upright?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

it is slightly tilt left, use threadlocker sealant and turn it hard enough to make it upright when you assemble the parts, but don't over do it.


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## Lotto (Apr 9, 2009)

So I think my regulator is toasted.. I've been trying to get past step 1 of your 'complete leak check guide' for the past 4 days now and the HP reading keeps slowly dipping. The first two times I was able to clearly identify the leaks coming from the HP gauge so I tried using thread lock which ended up failing (waited 24 hours to dry) and now I've used teflon tape (spun around the thread 4-5 times) which was promising as I couldn't identify a leak coming from the HP gauge anymore. Initially it would read a PSI of 800 as stated in the guide and would stay at that range for several hours before slowly dropping off. I decided to just leave it alone for 2 days and now the PSI reading is at about 550 PSI. I've sprayed soapy water around all the connections stated in step 1 and can't see any visible bubbles forming in any of the areas. From your complete leak check guide I'm to assume that something internally is broken or perhaps I'm still missing a leaky area from the outside. Not sure what to do anymore at this point, I guess I could try and re-do the thread lock/teflon in some areas or try tightening things a bit, but other than that I have no clue.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

that is bad, your regulator looks in good condition, there must be something we miss.
please try this.

sopy water on around the lower seal cap(the inner hex screw seal nut), to see if the leaking is from there.

There is a small release hole on the back of the regulator, put some sopy water to cover it, if bubble comes out, it is draphragm issure, but this kind of test can only test fast leak on the first chamber diaphragm.

or
1.seal the output area, if the post body has been installed, just keep the solenoid off.
2.regulator handle all the way loose, no pressure in the regulator.
3.connect the regulator to the co2 tank, make sure washer at the connection is tightly pressed(turn the cga 320 nut with wrench, make sure the connection no leak)
4.slowly turn on the co2 tank, fill the regulator to 800 psi, then turn the co2 tank off.
5. wait 6 hours
6. A. check again, if nothing change, pass.
--B. if the lower pressure gauge rise, the popet valve has issue.
--C. if the high presure gauge lower but the lower pressure gauge still at 0 psi, there is a leak somewhere in the first chamber, or the first chamber diaphragm leak.


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## Lotto (Apr 9, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> that is bad, your regulator looks in good condition, there must be something we miss.
> please try this.
> 
> sopy water on around the lower seal cap(the inner hex screw seal nut), to see if the leaking is from there.
> ...


Thanks, I'll try this out. I just let out the existing 550 PSI that was left over out and refilled it to 800 PSI. Gonna double check for leaks if it starts going down again. I found the hex screw seal nut on the bottom but haven't tested for leaks yet; where does the small release hole on the back of the regulator usually sit? I can pick out a small hole right behind the LP gauge and another small hole (bigger than the one behind the LP gauge) in the back slightly to the right of the HP gauge. I'll take a picture for reference if you need it. Hopefully the problem will sort itself out by the morning.


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## Lotto (Apr 9, 2009)

Seems to be option C. I've tried soapy water on almost every part/connection area and don't see any visible bubbles forming. I tried doing this a few times a day to see if I'm missing something but alas, no bubbles. I also noticed that when I first let the CO2 into the first chamber the HP gauge actually read 900 PSI right away and the leaking seems to be much slower than before. It's reading at 600 PSI right now but I've left it alone for 3 days now. Pretty bummed on this project, I might just try cleaning everything again
and redoing all the connections or just bringing the regulator to a professional to see if there's anything they can do to fix it


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Can you run two solenoids without a manifold? Can this work?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

work, need two timers to control two solenoids.
one timer to control two solenoids is ok, but I don't see the point.

you need a 24V DC (under 1A current output) power adapter for the solenoid, find one from Evil bay, about $4.5 a piece shipped from Hongkong, and good quality.

[STRIKE]the solenoid is not polar sensitive, so the current direction not matter.[/STRIKE]
: need to test a couple more solenoid to be sure.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Yeah, I was thinking two timers. I'll see what the local Source store has in stock. I'm guessing red is live and black is ground? 

Would it make a difference if it's 500mA or 1A for heat? Also, how would you know if it's "switching" and why do people prefer that?


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> [STRIKE]the solenoid is not polar sensitive, so the current direction not matter.[/STRIKE]
> : need to test a couple more solenoid to be sure.


I would imagine if the solenoid is DC, polarity might matter. For a simple coil, you could argue that polarity does not matter, but it would depend on the solenoid (check specification sheet).

To be 100% on the safe side, assume polarity matters.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Yeah, I was thinking two timers. I'll see what the local Source store has in stock. I'm guessing red is live and black is ground?


That would be a logical assumption.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Would it make a difference if it's 500mA or 1A for heat? Also, how would you know if it's "switching" and why do people prefer that?


Yes; higher current will mean more heat. However, if you are getting the 500 mA adapter, ensure that it can supply enough current for the solenoid.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^Did you have any luck finding a local source for the DC adapter, I'm not finding anything except for fleabay. We actually live pretty close hahah, small world. 

Is the polarity the way one connects the wires? Like, red with live, black with ground? Or does it depend on the adapter?

Edit: As requested, the close up. You can turn the top so the wires are not in the way of your build.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^Did you have any luck finding a local source for the DC adapter, I'm not finding anything except for fleabay. We actually live pretty close hahah, small world.


DC adapters? You can pick them up at any electronics store. I have a collection of them in my basement that I have accumulated over the years.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Is the polarity the way one connects the wires? Like, red with live, black with ground? Or does it depend on the adapter?


Yes.

It will depend with each adapter. You can easily test the correct polarity with a multimeter.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Mind pming me a store, I'm having a hard time getting a 24VDC that not fleabay.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Mind pming me a store, I'm having a hard time getting a 24VDC that not fleabay.


Check your in box.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

According to the spec sheet, it does not have polarity. Also, when you say under 1A, how low can we go? Could one use a 200mA rated one?

I think I brought the wrong one. These switch mode are hard to find. I only can get these bulky ones.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

No polarity(as predicted), so no matter red or black.
last line in the picture


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Hey Bettatails, yeah I was wondering about red/black so I just went with black with black but since there no polarity it didn't matter.

I got it to work, it was a bit scary at first so I stood quite a bit away. Anyways, here the pics. I heard the click, didn't make any hum or anything (I hate that noise). Then again, I wasn't very close to hear anything but the click. Tried it several times. Seem good. 

24VDC 200mA adapter. 
Bettatail says it uses 125mA,

Will solder and shrink wrap tomorrow.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

> it was a bit scary at first so I stood quite a bit away.


it is not M18 claymore mine, don't need to stand far away when power it up, lol.













> I heard the click, didn't make any hum or anything


it doesn't hum, it is DC power input, not like the AC power input solenoid that "hum" when the coil is loose. 
The hum is also call "AC hum", it is the sound from vibration of coil, and the vibration is because of the alternate current.




> 24VDC 200mA adapter.
> Bettatail says it uses 125mA,


this solenoid is 3 watts, lower than the Burkert 6011 which is 4 watts, and it is full metal body, heat dispatching should be better.
Power(watts) = Current(amperes) × Voltage(volts)
3 watts and 24V DC input, the current passing through the coil is 125mA
The class 2 transformer is 200mA max current output, the actual current passing the solenoid depends on the solenoid itself(coil resistance), so it is 125mA.

Voltage(volts) = Current(amperes) X Resistance(ohms) 
the resistance is 192 ohms.


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## xaqdaddy (Jan 25, 2013)

Does it make any sense at all to run co2 into a sump for multiple tanks? Or would I just be wasting co2?


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

xaqdaddy said:


> Does it make any sense at all to run co2 into a sump for multiple tanks? Or would I just be wasting co2?


I think this could work. Though, with a sump, you will have to ensure that it is relatively well sealed to prevent excessive CO2 loss (or you could just increase the rate of injection).

Personally, I would just run the CO2 directly into each aquarium (be sure to use a needle valve for each aquarium so that you can control the flow).


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Is there a better way to connect the two wires rather than solder or shrink wrap? What about those metal hooks covered in plastic? I would like to have a "quick" disconnect rather than a solid connections. 

Or is this a million dollar idea no one has stumble across? Those clippard mouse solenoids looks very clean, what are those connections with the metal things.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

There's probably a thousand different quick connects you could use. The most commonly found will be types used for auto wiring.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Auto wiring harness is thy name. I'm guessing home depot should have some. If I ever had to move the whole set up, I would prefer not to lug around the AC adapter too.

@ Bettatail - That pretty much exactly what I did minus the army clothes.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Auto wiring harness is thy name. I'm guessing home depot should have some. If I ever had to move the whole set up, I would prefer not to lug around the AC adapter too.
> 
> @ Bettatail - That pretty much exactly what I did minus the army clothes.


I am not sure if Home Depot will have them, but any good electronics store will have them for sure.

I use spade connectors.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

These spade connectors look nice, they don't require solder I'm guessing? So you just clump the two wires down right? 

The solenoid wires are pretty short so the spade connectors will be close to the rig, pretty much a permanent part of the whole rig. What you guys think? 

Straight solder and shrink wrap or spade connectors? Hey Oldpunk, you do spade connectors?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> These spade connectors look nice, they don't require solder I'm guessing? So you just clump the two wires down right?
> 
> The solenoid wires are pretty short so the spade connectors will be close to the rig, pretty much a permanent part of the whole rig. What you guys think?
> 
> Straight solder and shrink wrap or spade connectors? Hey Oldpunk, you do spade connectors?


Nope, I don't like crimped connections.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Mind if I ask you why? 

There also a DC jack with a DC socket, but again, you would see the connection with such short wires. If only they made usb with 24VDC outputs, that would be great!


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Mind if I ask you why?
> 
> There also a DC jack with a DC socket, but again, you would see the connection with such short wires. If only they made usb with 24VDC outputs, that would be great!


Eh - less is almost always more with me. It's just a personal thing. When I solder and shrink wrap something, I know its not going to come undone or corrode or fray. Less resistance too. Probably just a leftover habit from my rc car days.

Besides, letting my soldering station go to waste would be a shame...


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Yeah, I'll try for the solder and shrink method. I raided my dad's tool box today, before I left he asked me what kind of fish I was keeping, haha. 


Anyways, would these yellow thing be of any use?









It works! 
*Update*: The yellow clamps with the plastic coverage were a perfect size for the leads, just cut enough so it stops at the middle. You can slide them in and out, unclamp them to take out the leads. I like my wire twisted before I slide it in. 

Enjoy - 










Testing for strength









Give'em the clumps! 









Not sure how safe this is but I had it before with electrical tape. Also, according to the home depot guy, 24VDC can be done with electric tape and that he seen worse done with tape.


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Yeah, I'll try for the solder and shrink method. I raided my dad's tool box today, before I left he asked me what kind of fish I was keeping, haha.
> 
> 
> Anyways, would these yellow thing be of any use?
> ...


Even when using crimp/clamp connections it's good practice to tin your wires so they aren't loose, makes for a stronger connection


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Argh, can't I just twist them....? I didn't solder, so it just twisted and clump. The connection is pretty secure, there wouldn't be any weight on it anyways. I'll solder the other one tomorrow, see if this shrink wrap method is better.

- also, how come Cali and the west coast has so many fish lovers?


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> These spade connectors look nice, they don't require solder I'm guessing? So you just clump the two wires down right?


No soldering is required, but if you solder the connection after crimping, the connection will be even more robust.

Of course, you need a proper crimp.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Straight solder and shrink wrap or spade connectors? Hey Oldpunk, you do spade connectors?


I think you can use whatever you like. They both work fine; and the spade connectors just add an aesthetic touch.



FlyingHellFish said:


> There also a DC jack with a DC socket, but again, you would see the connection with such short wires. If only they made usb with 24VDC outputs, that would be great!


USB connection with 24 VDC flying leads? USB can only provide 5V at a few hundred mA current.



oldpunk78 said:


> Probably just a leftover habit from my rc car days.
> 
> Besides, letting my soldering station go to waste would be a shame...


I know what you mean; I do RC helicopters/multirotors and loose connections are the bane of any model. One connection comes loose, and your entire rig comes falling out of the sky like a rock.

I wish I had a fancy Hakko soldering station 



FlyingHellFish said:


> Argh, can't I just twist them....? I didn't solder, so it just twisted and clump. The connection is pretty secure, there wouldn't be any weight on it anyways. I'll solder the other one tomorrow, see if this shrink wrap method is better.


Twisting and shoving in is not the best way (wires can come loose). 

As with any electrical connection, if you want reliability, then you will want to solder (and ensure that it is not a cold solder joint).


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## Mumford (Nov 12, 2012)

I have a Milwaukee regulator that has a Parker metering valve with a JBJ bubble counter on the end. 


I'd like to remove the JBJ bubble counter and add just a little nipple on the end that I can add a hose to. I'd also like to add a check valve between the parker valve and the output. 

Any recommendations or parts on hand?


- Mumford


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Mumford said:


> I have a Milwaukee regulator that has a Parker metering valve with a JBJ bubble counter on the end.
> 
> 
> I'd like to remove the JBJ bubble counter and add just a little nipple on the end that I can add a hose to. I'd also like to add a check valve between the parker valve and the output.
> ...


check valve, part number Fabco 18CV, non spring version.

fittings:
1. 1/8 male npt to hose barb(for 1/8 ID hose)
2. 1/8 male npt to 1/4 OD push and pull quick connect
3. single ferrule or double ferrules type compression tube fitting, 1/8" male npt to 1/4 OD tube adapter, require tube insert if the air hose is too thin or not strong(too soft).


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

FlyingHellFish said:


> army clothes.


it is Rex Grigg's old USMC uniform.


BTW, terminal clamps to connect the wires is really good, and you can use blade connectors, and there is DIN 2 terminal connectors( I think you've already mention it, it is the terminal connector that use in car electric wires)


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## Mumford (Nov 12, 2012)

Bettatail said:


> check valve, part number Fabco 18CV, non spring version.
> 
> fittings:
> 1. 1/8 male npt to hose barb(for 1/8 ID hose)
> ...


So I need the fabco 18cv and then all those fittings or one of those 3?

Any chance you have some? Or do I just google?

Thanks for the quick reply!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Mumford said:


> So I need the fabco 18cv and then all those fittings or one of those 3?
> 
> Any chance you have some? Or do I just google?
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply!


I mention fabco 18CV because it is currently available on evil bay, good price.

but if you use a fabco 18CV, the outlet side of the check valve is a 1/8 male npt, so you need any of the three mention fittings at 1/8 female npt instead of 1/8 male npt.
or use a 10-32 to hose barb, because the inside thread of the 18CV outlet is 10-32....
confused? :icon_lol:


----------



## Mumford (Nov 12, 2012)

Bettatail said:


> I mention fabco 18CV because it is currently available on evil bay, good price.
> 
> but if you use a fabco 18CV, the outlet side of the check valve is a 1/8 male npt, so you need any of the three mention fittings at 1/8 female npt instead of 1/8 male npt.
> or use a 10-32 to hose barb, because the inside thread of the 18CV outlet is 10-32....
> confused? :icon_lol:


Little confused 

Is there a simpler check valve?
That would involve special outlets?


- Mumford


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

What do you think of the clipboard mjcv-1? And how could I connect that to a tube barb and a 1/4 npt male after a 90?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

shrimpNewbie said:


> What do you think of the clipboard mjcv-1? And how could I connect that to a tube barb and a 1/4 npt male after a 90?


MJCV-1 is ok, find the right fittings to connect.
At this point I am not sure what fittings needed because the second question is not clear.

let me know what style of the postbody and what solenoid and metering valve you have(pictures will be good), I will figure out the fittings needed.


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

Actually the check valve and fittings will be getting connected directly to my canister via a 1/4" npt that was there for a pressure gauge, but I want to put a 90degree turn a check valve and a tube fitting on it.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

the Fabco 18CV is both male 1/8 NPT, the clippard MJCV-1 is quite opposite, both female 1/8 NPT(there are some other models of clippard check valves with different male/female ports).

if you go with the clippard MJCV-1, the fittings needed are:
1/8" male npt elbow(from the Parker MV to the CV, 90 degree)
1/8" male npt to (1/8 ID or 3/16 ID)hose barb
air hose between
1/4" male npt to (1/8 ID or 3/16 ID)hose barb


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

Where can these parts be purchased?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Mumford said:


> Little confused
> 
> Is there a simpler check valve?
> That would involve special outlets?
> ...


there are actually many models of suitable good quality industrial grade check valves, clippard makes them, Fabco makes them, swagelok makes them, parker hannifin, bimba, kepco, SMC, .....

:hihi:

The mounted one, I like the Parker C series check valves, because it is top of the similars and retail cost more than a swagelok but most of the time can be obtained lower than a swagelok.
The inline one, The best I have is the SMC check valve, the model with both push and pull quick air hose connector ports.

Something between(a mounted and with push and pull quick connect port)
:
190748020707, should be 0.5 psi cracking pressure.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

I decided to change my configuration but am concerned about the weight. I was planning for one solenoid but end up with two (Bettatail awesome like that) so this is what I came up with. 

With this configuration, I don't have to remove the LP gauge to remove the post body. But is this too much weight for a 1/4 chrome brass 3 inch?


























Here the set up -
Regulator - 1" 1/4 nipple - Coupler - Reducer - T - solenoid - two parker

The Parker H3 are vertical, I just don't have the 1/8 hex nipple.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Not too much weight. You'll be fine.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

That a lot of weight, it like 5 plus pounds on one side being hold up by 1/4 brass. :S

Josh what you doing about the adapter?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Power adapter? 24vdc @ 400 mA.

That pipe is rated for like 5000psi. 5lbs of reg is ok.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> That a lot of weight, it like 5 plus pounds on one side being hold up by 1/4 brass. :S
> 
> Josh what you doing about the adapter?


You will be fine. 

That amount of weight is not an issue for the nut and nipple you have.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Disregard that build, it was too bulky and looked weird. I just went with the sample Bettatail config, the one I wanted from the start. 

Two solenoid didn't really make much sense, the Parker H3 has that shut off ability which I totally forgot about. Anyways, here it is, testing later. 











Mathman cuts up his teflon, I really liked that idea. 









ADA 60P , AquaSoil, Some Ryouhhhhhh stones or whatever. 









I know I asked this but I forgot, a 2inch nipple works with this right?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

As I recall, it just barely works. It might depend on your cylinder. You'd be better off with a 2 1/2" nipple. I just found a cheaper source for a stainless 2 1/2" nipple. PM if your interested.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Mathman cuts up his teflon, I really liked that idea.


I thought this was common sense? 

Your build looks nice. I assume those bubble counters are chrome plated (or painted) brass?


----------



## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

Great setup, FHF. Very clean!


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Thanks! Your Mini M looks awesome, the ADA dealer is always sold out of Mini M and Mini L. 

Hey Josh, you talking about those Parker SS 2.5 incher? I got one of those, it was actually cheaper than the chrome brass that I'm currently using. The 3inch makes it look a bit far out. 

The DICI bubble counter is aluminium, the older model is plastic on the bottom, aluminium on top. Did some testing, postbody had a leak from the reducer to the solenoid. Got to redo that. How tight do you guys usually screw in the pressure gauges?


----------



## D-Linquent (Feb 17, 2013)

Utter failure... 

My solenoid is not closing properly, and I removed it in an attempt to clear it out. When I did that, I found water in my needle valve, and I have a properly installed swagelok check valve. Water shouldn't be in there right?

I am at a loss for what to do. This thing does not want to work. Do you guys think I should send the solenoid back to have it checked out?


----------



## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

What's the best place to look for brass fittings?


----------



## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

If you want just a few particular (basic) fittings in the 1/8" or 1/4" NPT range, Home Depot or Lowe's. If you want something specific, like a 1/4 to 1/8 reducing elbow, or 1/8 NPT to 1/4" compression fitting, *or* if you want several of the same item, *or* if you want stainless steel, check the 'Bay. And Swagelok.com will always have what you need at full, significant price if you can't find it anywhere else. Alternatively, you can put a WTB in the sales forum with specific pieces and see if anybody has a stockpile.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

D-Linquent said:


> Utter failure...
> 
> My solenoid is not closing properly, and I removed it in an attempt to clear it out. When I did that, I found water in my needle valve, and I have a properly installed swagelok check valve. Water shouldn't be in there right?
> 
> I am at a loss for what to do. This thing does not want to work. Do you guys think I should send the solenoid back to have it checked out?


Pic? What kind of solenoid is it? Strange how water got past that Swagelok check valve, don't they go for 30+ dollars?


Oh and for the Co2 gurus, how tight do you guys have your gauges? Really tight where it takes a lot a lot of turns or hand tight and a bit more turns with the wrench? Why you ask? I try to get it down to maybe 2 threads where as I see some rigs where its 3 - 4 threads expose. It would save me a lot of back pain not to over tighten them gauges.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

D-Linquent said:


> Utter failure...
> 
> My solenoid is not closing properly, and I removed it in an attempt to clear it out. When I did that, I found water in my needle valve, and I have a properly installed swagelok check valve. Water shouldn't be in there right?
> 
> I am at a loss for what to do. This thing does not want to work. Do you guys think I should send the solenoid back to have it checked out?


more info on your co2 system and if there is picture, better.



FlyingHellFish said:


> I try to get it down to maybe 2 threads where as I see some rigs where its 3 - 4 threads expose.


3-4 threads expose is ok, but 2 threads down, not ok, are you sure it is a 1/4" npt not BST?

it is about 8 threads on a normal 1/4 male npt port, from your description, the total threads is less.



shrimpNewbie said:


> What's the best place to look for brass fittings?


Mcmaster-carr is one of the major online retailer.

grainger is another one.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Bettatail said:


> 3-4 threads expose is ok, but 2 threads down, not ok, are you sure it is a 1/4" npt not BST?
> 
> it is about 8 threads on a normal 1/4 male npt port, from your description, the total threads is less.


Ok see that make sense, I been trying so hard to screw that thing down, no wonder it took so much strength to take off. I can do 3 - 4 threads expose with the wrench, was thinking it was best to go as low as possible.

It's 8 threads, I counted from an older picture. I was just crazy and tried for the lowest possible.

First stage test done, waiting for second stage test.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> Mcmaster-carr is one of the major online retailer.
> 
> grainger is another one.


I am not too sure about Grainger, but Mcmaster-Carr does not ship to (new) Canadian addresses.


----------



## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

I'm in the us so its ok


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

D-Linquent said:


> Utter failure...
> 
> My solenoid is not closing properly, and I removed it in an attempt to clear it out. When I did that, I found water in my needle valve, and I have a properly installed swagelok check valve. Water shouldn't be in there right?
> 
> I am at a loss for what to do. This thing does not want to work. Do you guys think I should send the solenoid back to have it checked out?


Did you take the solenoid apart and check to see if the orifice and the seal were free of debris? (It only takes a tiny piece of something.)

Not sure about the check valve thing. If you are using a mounted bubble counter, you might want to consider removing it.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

> Please use the edit function for back to back posts.


Thanks!
It is sure the real clarity to multi-quote and reply in one post, but not familiar with it, stupid me, trying to learn how to do it right now.



add: success!


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Bettatail said:


> stupid me,


I'm dumb too, I redid the teflon for the HP gauge to make it neater and now I can't pass the second stage. First stage is rock solid but the post body is leaking somewhere. I took off both gauges to clean up the teflon wrap, now there a leak somewhere in the second stage. The leak is super slow, but it's there. Very hard to do the soap test when it such a small leak. 

Question: 
Do you guys complete the postbody then attach it? Or do you go one fitting at a time while holding each parts in place. I made the entire postbody then add it to the regulator, then add the LP gauge.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

I put things together piece by piece, but I have bench wise to hold one in place and turn the opposite part to connect them.

when you apply teflon tape, make sure wrap enough and tight on the male threads then press the tape in.


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## D-Linquent (Feb 17, 2013)

> more info on your co2 system and if there is picture, better.




VTS-250C, Burkert solenoid, Ideal needle valve, swagelok parts, fluval bubble counter, rhinox diffuser.

I put everything together and started it up. After a few hours, I noticed that the bubble count had reduced significantly. I tested the first stage, and it works fine. I tested the second stage, and I found that a lot of my connections were too loose. I tightened the heck out of everything, and started to test the second stage again. The solenoid was closed, and I found that air was still passing through it. 

It makes a clicking sound when I plug it in and a more muted sound when I unplug it. Also, the led light worked the first couple of times I used it, but it has since ceased lighting up. Last night I removed the solenoid, and I couldn't see an obstruction. I attempted to take it apart, but I can't get any of the four screws loose. I was starting to strip them, and I stopped. Although I couldn't see a blockage, there might be something inside. The solenoid seems to be installed properly. The gas is flowing from the reg through the P side and out the A side. Reg--->P--->A--->Needle Valve 

Additionally, I found water in the needle valve, and a little in the solenoid. I don't have a close up of the check valve as it is installed, but the arrow on the side of it is pointing up from the needle vavle to the co2 tubing. I will borrow a picture from another thread. My check valve is installed the same way.

I'm sort of at a loss. Will water screw up the needle valve and/or the solenoid? Why would a check valve fail like this?








[/url][/IMG]








[/url][/IMG]








[/url][/IMG](This is not a photo of my setup, but my checkvalve is installed in the same orientation)


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Well guys, got up this morning with sore arms and looked past the sea of electric tape and teflon littering the floor, no doubt remnants of last night's battle. I notice the LP needle is not at zero, good I thought. Walking closer, expecting to see some sort of a drop, some sort of a change like before.

Nope....


They say coffee gets you up, an apple gets you up,


Nope....


Seeing the fruit of your labour after nearly a year of work, gets you up. 

TLDR; Too Long Didn't Read

It works, done. Disregard the tape, will remove later. 



















Where can I get those small O-ring, does Swagelok have them?


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

D-Linquent said:


> The solenoid was closed, and I found that air was still passing through it.
> 
> It makes a clicking sound when I plug it in and a more muted sound when I unplug it. Also, the led light worked the first couple of times I used it, but it has since ceased lighting up. Last night I removed the solenoid, and I couldn't see an obstruction. I attempted to take it apart, but I can't get any of the four screws loose. I was starting to strip them, and I stopped.


As you suspected, you likely have some debris stuck inside your solenoid. The LED not working is another (separate) issue (may be poor soldering), but should not affect the overall functioning of the solenoid.

You can try to blow the debris out of the solenoid. Disconnect everything downstream of the solenoid, set your delivery pressure to 40+ PSI, and then turn the solenoid on and off a few times. This should blow out any debris if it is present.



D-Linquent said:


> Additionally, I found water in the needle valve, and a little in the solenoid. I don't have a close up of the check valve as it is installed, but the arrow on the side of it is pointing up from the needle vavle to the co2 tubing. I will borrow a picture from another thread. My check valve is installed the same way.
> 
> I'm sort of at a loss. Will water screw up the needle valve and/or the solenoid? Why would a check valve fail like this?


I assume you do not have a bubble counter after your check valve and it goes directly to your CO2 tubing (which goes into your aquarium/diffuser)? If so, you may want to place another (cheap) inline check valve that is as close to the aquarium as possible. In general two check valve are required. The one that is mounted on the regulator is usually to prevent (say) back flow from the bubble counter (which sometimes have poor check valves) into the needle valve.

A little water in the needle valve should not damage it, but it could damage the solenoid, if it makes it way into the circuitry.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Where can I get those small O-ring, does Swagelok have them?


O-rings for what purpose?


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

shrimpNewbie said:


> Even when using crimp/clamp connections it's good practice to tin your wires so they aren't loose, makes for a stronger connection


I been told it not a good idea to tin the wires for crimp, something about spaces that can form with the tin as it is crimp.

The mysterious O-ring used for the bubble counters in which no one knows what they are. Been asking everyone and they all tell me to buy the 30 dollar O-ring kit online.


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

Don't buy the kit online go buy a o ring in the same size


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> The mysterious O-ring used for the bubble counters in which no one knows what they are. Been asking everyone and they all tell me to buy the 30 dollar O-ring kit online.


The small O-rings that go in the JBJ bubble counters?

I found them at a local hardware store.

It's sometimes hit or miss; not all stores carry them.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ I tried HD, Home hardware, I think Rona said on the phone I had to get a fitting that comes with it? Weird. Its two very very small Rings that I only find online and it's in a kit for model RC, I think it goes in their wheels which I have no idea if it works for bubble numero counters. 

Some after thoughts -

The *Parker H3* is extremely precise, too bad we don't have any use for numbers higher than 1 - 2. Love the shut off feature, had to shut the second one off (no o-ring). It feels like 5 DICI needle valves all in line.


Edit - Pics


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Its two very very small Rings that I only find online and it's in a kit for model RC,


I toss the o-rings away....
no need them, they are for the bottom seal where the bubble counter connects to the 1/8 male npt on those asia make needle valve.
or they can be used on where the bubble counter top hose barb connects to the soft silicon air hose.
both of the usage not apply to the parts or air hose we use.

you can put the teflon tape or use sealant on the 1/8 male npt where the bubble counter connects too.
and we don't use soft, thin silicon air hose for the co2.




D-Linquent said:


> The solenoid was closed, and I found that air was still passing through it.


did you test the regulator alone to make sure it is no leak?
in my leak test instruction, you can identify where the leak from, it is either the regulator or the solenoid at this point, but need to follow the rest of the testing steps to be sure which one.

BTW, apparently you checked the the old instruction on Barrreport, it is kind of old, there are darkblade and oldpunks DIY instructions, cover more and more details on how to put together parts almost hand over hand. 
The old regulator thread in Barrreport, the people who contributed to that thread went vertically on specific parts(Victor, Burkert 6011, and ideal needle valve) and dug really deep, but failed to expend their sight horizontally. 
They missed a lot.


----------



## Azrie (Jan 5, 2011)

I have a couple quick questions on a few fittings for a reg that I'm building. To start off I have the following:
Concoa 212 Chrome plated brass reg
Burkert 2822 solenoid
Parker H3L needle valve

I have an existing setup but after scoring the new solenoid and needle valve I want to upgrade what I have. Bettatail, after looking at a few of your setups I'd like to do something similar to the set #9 you have in your for sale thread. 

Now for the questions. First, can I use stainless steel fittings mixed with brass fittings? I've read that it could possibly cause problems?
I was also looking at a stem to go from the reg to the solenoid but I'm not sure what size to get? I've heard of people getting the 2" or 2.5" stems but that seems a little long. I'd like to keep it as compact as possible. 

Second how did you get the tube fitting from the H3L needle valve to the fitting itself? Its a little hard to see in the picture the male/female ends used for each part. 

Third, does anyone have a recommendation for a check valve to use with the system? I've looked at the Swagelok SS-2C2-1/3 but at $65 for a new one its a little pricey. 

And lastly, what kind of quick connect fittings are you using for the airline tubing? They look pretty slick for easily moving around and arranging CO2 lines instead of having to take it off the tube fittings all the time.

Thanks for the input!


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Bettatail said:


> you can put the teflon tape or use sealant on the 1/8 male npt where the bubble counter connects too.


What?!? I going to try that out. I'll test the adapter tomorrow, going to borrow one of those things with the numbers and the two metal prongs, I think you call them a "Amp meter" 

But yes, going have to switch this adapter. Hey josh, when you getting your adapter?


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Azrie said:


> First, can I use stainless steel fittings mixed with brass fittings? I've read that it could possibly cause problems?


Stainless steel to brass pipe fitting is ok, I don't see problems.
The real problem is stainless steel to stainless steel, if there is not enough teflon tape or sealant to prevent direct contact of the stainless steel metal, galvanization happen over time. stainless steel to brass, galvanization is less than likely, two different metal don't "melt" together.

for compression tube port connection, don't use brass ferrules on stainless steel fittings, not because of the galvanization but the soft brass ferrules will have a possibility that come loose in the long run.



Azrie said:


> Second how did you get the tube fitting from the H3L needle valve to the fitting itself? Its a little hard to see in the picture the male/female ends used for each part.


the specific part is the 1/4" compression tube to 1/8" male npt elbow.
the air hose connects to the compression tube port, is 1/4" OD, hold tight by the SS ferrules in the port. There is swagelok or similar metal insert for the air hose, act as back bone when the ferrules clamps down, so with the ferrules, the connection is good to withstand pressure that up to the air hose pressure rating.
BTW, with industrial standard air hose(not the soft silicon), the air hose insert is not necessary for 1/4 or below compression tube port, but for 3/8 or higher, is must. 



Azrie said:


> And lastly, what kind of quick connect fittings are you using for the airline tubing?


There are different brands of push and pull quick connector fittings, serving the same purpose. 
SMC, Parker Hannifin, Bimba, clippard, Pisco, and some others, all make the same push and pull quick connection fittings. These fittings use on air hose and pressure rating normally up to 175 psi.



add:
the post body fittings for #9
316 SS, 1/4 male npt to 1/8 female npt bushing.
316 SS, 1/8 male npt hex nipple
316 SS, 1/8 male npt to 1/8 female npt short ratio elbow
(the burkert 2822)
316 SS, 1/8 male npt to 1/8 male npt elbow
(the parker H3L)
316 SS, 1/4 compression tube to 1/8 male npt elbow.











The post body fittings for #10
316 SS, 1/4 male npt hex nipple, 1.5" (2" can be used, but too long, imo)
316 SS, 1/4 female npt to 1/8 male npt elbow.
(the SMC solenoid)
316 SS, 1/4 compression tube to 1/8 male npt elbow
(the swagelok S series metering valve)












FlyingHellFish said:


> I think you call them a "Amp meter"


multimeter to be exact.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Azrie said:


> Now for the questions. First, can I use stainless steel fittings mixed with brass fittings? I've read that it could possibly cause problems?


Galvanic corrosion can occur, but it can be slowed down by using teflon tape.



Azrie said:


> I was also looking at a stem to go from the reg to the solenoid but I'm not sure what size to get? I've heard of people getting the 2" or 2.5" stems but that seems a little long. I'd like to keep it as compact as possible.


You are mixing up parts. A stem goes from the regulator to the CO2 cylinder. These are usually 2 or 2.5 inches. 

To go from the regulator to the solenoid, you just need an appropriate nipple (usually 1/4" from the regulator to whatever size fitting your solenoid accepts).



Azrie said:


> Second how did you get the tube fitting from the H3L needle valve to the fitting itself? Its a little hard to see in the picture the male/female ends used for each part.


The H3L metering valve has 1/8" female NPT ports on each side, and does not use tube fittings. Standard NPT fittings will work here.



Azrie said:


> And lastly, what kind of quick connect fittings are you using for the airline tubing? They look pretty slick for easily moving around and arranging CO2 lines instead of having to take it off the tube fittings all the time.


If not using a tube fitting, I just use a hose barb adapter so that I can slide the airline tubing on and off easily.



Bettatail said:


> Stainless steel to brass pipe fitting is ok, I don't see problems.
> The real problem is stainless steel to stainless steel, if there is not enough teflon tape or sealant to prevent direct contact of the stainless steel metal, galvanization happen over time. stainless steel to brass, galvanization is less than likely, two different metal don't "melt" together.


This is incorrect. Stainless steel together will not fuse together due to galvanic corrosion. By definition, galvanic action only occurs between two different metals when emersed in an electrolyte. 

However, as I previously mentioned, while there is some degree of galvanic corrosion between brass and stainless steel, it is mitigated by using teflon tape.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Darkblade48 said:


> This is incorrect. Stainless steel together will not fuse together due to galvanic corrosion. By definition, galvanic action only occurs between two different metals when emersed in an electrolyte.
> 
> However, as I previously mentioned, while there is some degree of galvanic corrosion between brass and stainless steel, it is mitigated by using teflon tape.


finally found out the right term for the stainless steel fittings "melt" together problem, it is call "galling", I've been using the wrong term the whole time.

here is from wiki:

_"Galling is adhesive wear. Galling is caused by macroscopic transfer of material between metallic surfaces, during transverse motion (sliding). Galling occurs frequently whenever metal surfaces are in contact, sliding against each other, especially with poor lubrication."_

stainless steel and aluminum are more prompt to galling than brass. 

galvanic action is chemical reaction between different metal and it is a different concept, Anthony, sorry about the mistake that I made and kept using the wrong term the whole time, I will use the right word and to get the mistake fix.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey josh, when you getting your adapter?


Last Friday.


----------



## D-Linquent (Feb 17, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> did you test the regulator alone to make sure it is no leak?
> in my leak test instruction, you can identify where the leak from, it is either the regulator or the solenoid at this point, but need to follow the rest of the testing steps to be sure which one.
> 
> BTW, apparently you checked the the old instruction on Barrreport, it is kind of old, there are darkblade and oldpunks DIY instructions, cover more and more details on how to put together parts almost hand over hand.
> ...


I haven't tested it alone yet. When I went to retest the second stage after tightening everything, I found that air was passing through the solenoid even though it was unplugged. Then when I when I took the solenoid off to mess with it, I found water in the solenoid and needle valve. I haven't corrected one problem yet because I keep finding new ones. Ha! I should have time to mess with it tonight. I hope to find a plug at the depot and test the isolated reg. I will also try to clear the solenoid per Darkblade's instructions, and I'll install a second check valve closer to the tank.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> Last Friday.


Hmm.... I'm guessing you know what I'm about to ask? What the weather like in Cali? Is it hot or warm?


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> finally found out the right term for the stainless steel fittings "melt" together problem, it is call "galling", I've been using the wrong term the whole time.
> 
> galvanic action is chemical reaction between different metal and it is a different concept, Anthony, sorry about the mistake that I made and kept using the wrong term the whole time, I will use the right word and to get the mistake fix.


No need to apologize, it's good that we can sort out the differences and figure out what happens.

You're right that stainless steel and aluminum (essentially any metal that forms a passive oxide layer on the surface) will be more prone to galling than metals that do not (like brass).

And of course, teflon tape then becomes important as acting as a type of insulation against metal to metal contact to slow down/mitigate galling.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

SMC Heat issue fixed.

I'm not sure about you guys but the unregulated 24VDC 200mA transformer (bulky, heavy) made the solenoid heat up, I could barely touch the thing. Yes I know, solenoids do get hot, especially continuous use ones. SMC said it was fine, and yeah I agree it is fine, but *snap fingers NAW NAW NAW

Let try out the regulated *switch mode one shall we? 

24VDC 1000mA Regulated switchmode, whatever you want to call it. If it's light weight, it's regulated. Not the heavy bulky class 2 transformer "bad adapter in disguise". 










Found at a local store, you can find it online for about 4 bucks. 

Crimp connection for disconnect, got a million of these for a dollar. 










Test time.









Both hooked up at the same time. Did the most scientific heat test known to man, I touch the things. According to my fingers, the results were pretty good. The bulky unregulated adapter was hot, the light weight switch-mode adapter was warm at most. I can accept warm, that is acceptable. So if you're like one and like touching metal things, just do yourself a favour and buy the cheap 4 dollar adapter.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

You have to remember while the 200 mA adapter will work (you mentioned that the solenoid runs on under 200 mA current), it will be "near capacity" so it may run hotter as well.

The 1000 mA adapter will not be "at capacity" and thus may run a bit cooler as well.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

I was talking about the solenoid, not the adapters. Course the 200mA will run a bit warm, but the point is, the regulated adapters are far better than the unregulated one. Even unregulated ones that are as close as possible to the load requirement. 

The only time you will be concern about the adapter's heat is when you have a load that is higher than the adapter max. But we're talking solenoids, specifically the SS SMC which is hot with a unregulated adapter so closely rated for it's load. 



Fish forum guys, Fish forum....


----------



## D-Linquent (Feb 17, 2013)

I had a successful night last night. There was something in the solenoid, and I was able to blow it out. I didn't have time to get a plug, so I just retested the second stage with the solenoid attached. It held consistent pressure overnight. I will put in the second check valve, reassemble the rest of the parts, and I am hopeful that I will have co2 flowing tonight. Thanks again, and probably not for the last time.


----------



## drewsuf82 (May 27, 2012)

Is there a limit to the length of tubing used? I'm getting ready to expand out a project and where I have things setup now the tubing is approx going to be 12' away from the source


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Check out this system! It's the best cO2 system you can get for the money. Nottttttttttt
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9933


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

drewsuf82 said:


> Is there a limit to the length of tubing used? I'm getting ready to expand out a project and where I have things setup now the tubing is approx going to be 12' away from the source


You should be OK with that length. I would not recommend anything more than (say) 15 feet or so, as you might start running into consistency issues.


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## drewsuf82 (May 27, 2012)

I'm just trying to figure out a way to share my 20LB co2 with my 55 and about 6 other tanks in the same room I know there's manifolds and that's what I was planning on using but I just wanted to make sure it was feasible


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Had a chipset heat sink laying around, I took off the fan and Voilà! 



















































Those screws for the bracket actually came in handy. The stainless steel outer body really does a great job at transferring the heat, it works even better with active cooling. And no, the heat is not that bad, it was never that bad to begin with. I just wanted to try crazy new ideas out. 

Now I just need some really bad techno music and I'm set!


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## drewsuf82 (May 27, 2012)

plus it looks pretty awesome


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Thanks! 

Anyone know a good way to remove sticker glue? I took those stickers off my regulator and now it's sticky.


----------



## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

Try Goof Off. Or rubbing alcohol.


----------



## dtejeda.arias (Mar 5, 2013)

Nail polish remover...


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Acetone, isopropanol, or Goof off (which is just a bunch of organic solvents mixed together) should be fine on metal.


----------



## willygog (Mar 20, 2013)

*help with check valves*

OK so i dont know much about the rebuilt regulators, but i am slowly gathering parts, i managed to pick up a swag-ss-ss2 unsure of any other designation.. 1/8th . im waiting on a regulator dual gauge .. unknown brand.. one i guess i can't say. but if i can its an aquatech,, my local hardware said they would have most if not all connectors, but i dont know if the meter needs double ferrels or not.. I also want a good check valve, and that is my question, what is the best or best for less, check valve.. looking for reccomendations, any reccomendations or help, im not the sharpest tack in the pile but really want a good regulator for my planted tank.. Sorry if this has already been answered..


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

The metering valve that you have has standard tube fittings. If you want to convert them to (say) NPT fittings, you will need a tube fitting to NPT fitting (a few dollars).

Usually, the adapters will come with the ferrules that are needed. Be sure to read up on Swagelok's documentation for how to properly "Swage" (their terminology) the two parts together.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

For the the Victor 450, which fittings do you use on the LP output so that the angle is 180 degree instead of pointing downward.


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## willygog (Mar 20, 2013)

Darkblade48 said:


> The metering valve that you have has standard tube fittings. If you want to convert them to (say) NPT fittings, you will need a tube fitting to NPT fitting (a few dollars).
> 
> Usually, the adapters will come with the ferrules that are needed. Be sure to read up on Swagelok's documentation for how to properly "Swage" (their terminology) the two parts together.


Thanks for the quick reply. 

so like i said i dont really understand, by standard are you referring to BST? i dont have a problem with deciding on a solenoid, thats not an issue, its all the other little things.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

AlanLe said:


> For the the Victor 450, which fittings do you use on the LP output so that the angle is 180 degree instead of pointing downward.


You can use several angled pieces to achieve any angle you desire. 



willygog said:


> so like i said i dont really understand, by standard are you referring to BST? i dont have a problem with deciding on a solenoid, thats not an issue, its all the other little things.


BST is the British standard. NPT is what is commonly used in North America.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

SMC VDW250-6G-1-M5 COMPACT SOLENOID 12 VDC
Found this solenoid on fleabay. Will it work with our app?


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Isn't bettatail selling that for 12 bucks? Got a picture of that?


----------



## CanuckGame (Feb 12, 2013)

can someone PLEASE link me to a GOOD regulator? i have my tank ready to go, just need the regulator with all the bells and whistles that it needs! my budget is 170.00 would prefer to spend around 100 tho or my wife will put my balls in a vice hahahaha


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## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

I just purchased a Matheson 8L-590 Body. I know I need a Solenoid, Needle valve, Check Valve, Diffuser.

I am looking at the Clippard Max for the Solenoid, Bubble Counter, Check Valve & Diffuser from Evilbay.

I'm looking at Swagelok Needle Valve, but the evil bay has so many different kinds. What exactly am I looking for? I've used Darkblades guide but I didn't have a model number listed. Evilbay has many listed ranging from 30-200$. I'm aiming at the 30-40$ range. I can PM links to what I'm looking at and if it would work. 
Thanks,
Ben


----------



## D-Linquent (Feb 17, 2013)

I can't answer your question, but you can post item numbers. Just don't post links. That might help you get an answer.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

AlanLe said:


> SMC VDW250-6G-1-M5 COMPACT SOLENOID 12 VDC
> Found this solenoid on fleabay. Will it work with our app?


I ended up getting the SMC VDW21-5G-2-01-L. The orifice size is 1.6, port size is 1/4. The only difference is this unit is designed for pure water and the amature assembly is corrosion resistant construction. I think it's safe for use with CO2?????


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

This is an example of what I'm looking at #130895252705


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

AlanLe said:


> I ended up getting the SMC VDW21-5G-2-01-L. The orifice size is 1.6, port size is 1/4. The only difference is this unit is designed for pure water and the amature assembly is corrosion resistant construction. I think it's safe for use with CO2?????
> View attachment 131393


I have this:
VDW21-5G-1-01-N-G-F

Which is pretty much the same as yours but with a different config. You can always call up SMC and ask them directly, but I think you will be fine. I'm no scientist but I think pure water is actually a mix of two gas. Jury is still out on that one. 

I would of prefer that awesome wire out of the solenoid, that looks nice and clean.


----------



## Smellydeli (Jun 14, 2012)

AlanLe said:


> I ended up getting the SMC VDW21-5G-2-01-L. The orifice size is 1.6, port size is 1/4. The only difference is this unit is designed for pure water and the amature assembly is corrosion resistant construction. I think it's safe for use with CO2?????
> View attachment 131393


Pretty sure that's the 20 series meaning that specific configuration is 2.3mm orifice and 1/8 NPT connections.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Smellydeli said:


> Pretty sure that's the 20 series meaning that specific configuration is 2.3mm orifice and 1/8 NPT connections.


Oh yes it's 2.3mm orifice. Is it too big?


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> I have this:
> VDW21-5G-1-01-N-G-F
> 
> Which is pretty much the same as yours but with a different config. You can always call up SMC and ask them directly, but I think you will be fine. I'm no scientist but I think pure water is actually a mix of two gas. Jury is still out on that one.
> ...


I found this SMC solenoid chart. It tells exactly what you have based on the model #.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Speechless, good find. That the first time I ever seen the pdf to that solenoid.


----------



## Smellydeli (Jun 14, 2012)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Speechless, good find. That the first time I ever seen the pdf to that solenoid.


One of the auctions for the VDW has the pdf info in the pictures.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Smellydeli said:


> One of the auctions for the VDW has the pdf info in the pictures.


yeah that's where i got it from. :smile:


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Uhm, you guys do realize that I .... oh never mind.  Enjoy the SMC it nice!


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Uhm, you guys do realize that I .... oh never mind.  Enjoy the SMC it nice!


Nice to know. I can't wait to get mine. I hope they will fit. I will have to sell the extra ones. Since I only need 1 lol.


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## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

What is everyones experience with the Fabco NV-55-18.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> I ended up getting the SMC VDW21-5G-2-01-L. The orifice size is 1.6, port size is 1/4. The only difference is this unit is designed for pure water and the amature assembly is corrosion resistant construction. I think it's safe for use with CO2?????
> View attachment 131393


Alan, sorry didn't have time to check TPT, 
it is 1/8 BST, not NPT

Please look into the detail on PDF.



handlebar said:


> What is everyones experience with the Fabco NV-55-18.


Ok,it is pretty convience because it is 1/8 npt ports ,but more others(better), you can get at lower price.



FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Speechless, good find. That the first time I ever seen the pdf to that solenoid.


There are about three version of the SMC VDW solenoid PDF, the one Alan provide, I believe is the most detail and recent.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> Ok,it is pretty convience because it is 1/8 npt ports ,but more others(better), you can get at lower price.


Care to share? I just got a Matheson 8L-590 off the bay, and am looking to start piecing it together. I was looking at the Clippard Solenoid, but can't figure out which Needle valve to go with. My budget is less that 40$ for the needle valve.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

handlebar said:


> Care to share? I just got a Matheson 8L-590 off the bay, and am looking to start piecing it together. I was looking at the Clippard Solenoid, but can't figure out which Needle valve to go with. My budget is less that 40$ for the needle valve.


As Bettatail mentioned, the NV-55-18 is convenient because it is commercially sold and readily available from suppliers. 

There are better metering valves that can be had for a similar price or less. These afford better (finer) control over the CO2 flow rate compared to the NV-55-18. Such metering valves take a little more effort to find, however.

I believe the Clippard solenoid has a 1/8" NPT fitting on each side (check the PDF specification sheet to be certain).


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> Alan, sorry didn't have time to check TPT,
> it is 1/8 BST, not NPT
> 
> Please look into the detail on PDF.
> ...


Thanks, I didn't know it wasn't NPT. I looked it up on the pdf but might have skipped this part.


Darkblade48 said:


> As Bettatail mentioned, the NV-55-18 is convenient because it is commercially sold and readily available from suppliers.
> 
> There are better metering valves that can be had for a similar price or less. These afford better (finer) control over the CO2 flow rate compared to the NV-55-18. Such metering valves take a little more effort to find, however.
> 
> I believe the Clippard solenoid has a 1/8" NPT fitting on each side (check the PDF specification sheet to be certain).


Needle valve is the most painful part in the build, not so much info is given out. I hear a lot of people say "there are better needle valves..." but they never specify the models.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

Hey Dark,
I just sent you a PM and didn't see this. The Clippard Solenoid has an NPT? What does this mean for me, or this a good thing. I understand ID and OD, but not the NPT and the other suffixes.

Sorry for seeming so erm, slow on this.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

handlebar said:


> Care to share? I just got a Matheson 8L-590 off the bay, and am looking to start piecing it together. I was looking at the Clippard Solenoid, but can't figure out which Needle valve to go with. My budget is less that 40$ for the needle valve.


171026822280



Darkblade48 said:


> There are better metering valves that can be had for a similar price or less. These afford better (finer) control over the CO2 flow rate compared to the NV-55-18. Such metering valves take a little more effort to find, however.


+1, if it is call "metering valve", more than likely it is much expensive than the Fabco needle valve, but because of the popularity of some of the fine precision metering valves, there are plenty on the market as used or liquidated items, at a price lower than a Fabco NV55-18.



AlanLe said:


> Needle valve is the most painful part in the build, not so much info is given out.


The part number and names are listed in the Metering valve selection thread, but it is your task to check the PDF for detail and find it on your own.
171026822280
BTW, the ideal angle pattern needle valve, I got them both, will take one to you once I have the chance to go to your place.



handlebar said:


> Hey Dark,
> I just sent you a PM and didn't see this. The Clippard Solenoid has an NPT? What does this mean for me, or this a good thing. I understand ID and OD, but not the NPT and the other suffixes.
> 
> Sorry for seeming so erm, slow on this.


avoid the clippard maximatic 6 watts solenoid, it is not complete isolated design, the plastic seal between the coil and base is easy to give up due to heat(burn out).


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Just finished building my co2 system. Jk guys 









Bettatail - Thanks bro!


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

You got Betta tail to go to your place for Co2 help? Now that is awesome! Betta tail, you want to drive all the way to Toronto? jk


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> You got Betta tail to go to your place for Co2 help? Now that is awesome! Betta tail, you want to drive all the way to Toronto? jk


He would if you book a flight and hotel for him. Lol


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Got any pictures of your current progress? 

There is an empty void once the regulator is done. Only time I got to play with it was adding a rubber band to the stand.










 Can't afford anymore regulators but I still want to build them.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Got any pictures of your current progress?
> 
> There is an empty void once the regulator is done. Only time I got to play with it was adding a rubber band to the stand.
> 
> ...


I'll post it up sometime next week when all the parts arrive. Nice regulator you have there. How big is your tank? Why do you need meter valves?


By the way does it matter if you have a reg with male fitting outlet?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> There is an empty void once the regulator is done.
> Can't afford anymore regulators but I still want to build them.


Same problem here.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

@Alan, It's a 5lb tank steel (heavy and ugly), I rather have aluminum. I have 2 metering valves because I ordered one but it got sent back, I tried to make it up to the guy by getting a second one. Very nice seller, its was completely my fault. Male out wouldn't matter. 

@oldpunk , advice on properly securing the rig? What you pros do to keep it in place?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I just use zip-ties. I've been meaning to get a velco strap though.


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## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Can't afford anymore regulators but I still want to build them.


I know this feeling all too well...I'm currently sitting on 3 fully dual stage functional setups. All with stainless steel connections (except the nut/nipple), metering valves and solenoids. Need to make more. 

I've got two of Bettatail's old Clippard Mouse and SMC needle valve post bodies laying around too. Need to liquidate.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Just curious if any of you know how to build keg system. I have 1 extra regulator, might as well build something for my second hobby, drinking beer!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Just curious if any of you know how to build keg system. I have 1 extra regulator, might as well build something for my second hobby, drinking beer!




If you successfully tackle the keg setup, build me one:biggrin:


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> You got Betta tail to go to your place for Co2 help? Now that is awesome! Betta tail, you want to drive all the way to Toronto? jk


I can come...I'm in Toronto 

I've made house visits to set up CO2 systems/troubleshoot before as well...


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Are swagelok ss-ss1-a-oh-sl needle valves worth $80 each? Brand new


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

@ Darkblade - More than welcome to come by. Wish there was more interest over in this side of the pond. Was thinking of hitting up that local shrimp meet to pick up some shrimp.

@ Alan - They retail for 200 new, sound nice to me. You have to get the tube fittings to work with NPT. I think it's 1/16 tube fittings.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

AlanLe said:


> Are swagelok ss-ss1-a-oh-sl needle valves worth $80 each? Brand new


Stay away from the 1/16 tube fittings.


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## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> Stay away from the 1/16 tube fittings.


This. Even the 1/8" ones can be iffy. 1/4" are very nice though.

Also, if you've got an $80 price point for valves then message that person on eBay that keeps putting up nice Parker metering valves for $60 to bid. PM them and see what they say for a flat price shipped. Most people are pretty nice about stuff on eBay.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Is that the Parker H3 model? There is a PARKER 4A-NLL-V-SS-V with 1/4 tube fitting and vernier handle for 80. You can use an inline bubble counter, plus it looks better than the H3 in my opinion.


----------



## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Is that the Parker H3 model? There is a PARKER 4A-NLL-V-SS-V with 1/4 tube fitting and vernier handle for 80. You can use an inline bubble counter, plus it looks better than the H3 in my opinion.


Yeah, it's the H3. I prefer them over anything I've used so far (SMC needles, Swagelok metering). Ridiculously precise. Easy to keep track of what you're injecting as well. Currently using 2.4 turns for my 20L.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Hahah yeah they are extremely precise. First time I played with the settings, it felt like several needle valves combine into one. Ridiculous amount of control on these things even for 60 dollars. 

Capitalism baby! 

By the way, what the best way to drill a hole in the back of a stand? It feels like hard cardboard... 

A drill right? Need to get those tubes out show how.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> By the way, what the best way to drill a hole in the back of a stand? It feels like hard cardboard...
> 
> A drill right? Need to get those tubes out show how.


See if you can get a hole saw bit; it is what I used. If you're in a pinch, I might be able to lend you my set.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

freph said:


> This. Even the 1/8" ones can be iffy. 1/4" are very nice though.
> 
> Also, if you've got an $80 price point for valves then message that person on eBay that keeps putting up nice Parker metering valves for $60 to bid. PM them and see what they say for a flat price shipped. Most people are pretty nice about stuff on eBay.


That guy is a member of TPT, after I reveal the Parker Hannifin H3L metering valve, he grabbed all the last valves from a deal, now turning around to sell them.
oh well, this is why I don't give out info of SMC stainless steel solenoid or other good info before I am ready, (to prevent) that someone take advantage of my research.
Now the SMC solenoid, save some for myself and enough quantity that fellow hobbyists can get at low,


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Darkblade48 said:


> See if you can get a hole saw bit; it is what I used. If you're in a pinch, I might be able to lend you my set.


Thanks for the offer. Going to hit up home depot for some tubing and the hole drill bit. But hey, if you need some free HC Cuba you can stop by


----------



## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

Bettatail said:


> That guy is a member of TPT, after I reveal the Parker Hannifin H3L metering valve, he grabbed all the last valves from a deal, now turning around to sell them.
> oh well, this is why I don't give out info of SMC stainless steel solenoid or other good info before I am ready, (to prevent) that someone take advantage of my research.
> Now the SMC solenoid, save some for myself and enough quantity that fellow hobbyists can get at low,


Interesting. Looks like I will no longer be purchasing from that seller. Thanks for the heads up.

I appreciate all the help you've given me over the past couple of years. You're the king of part info. :hihi:


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Hey guys post a pix of your tank!


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Hey guys post a pix of your tank!


don't fall for this man's trap, his tank is on steroid, the dwarf sagg I gave him become gigantic, 8+ inches of leaves! :hihi:

add:
there are also the most healthy aromatica I've ever seen, really thick stems and side shots all over, forgot to steal it from his tank last time I went to his place...


----------



## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

AlanLe said:


> Hey guys post a pix of your tank!


What kind of tank? CO2 or planted? :hihi:


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ I brought my dry fertilizers at a hydroponic place. Friendliest people ever! They use Co2, Lighting and Fertilizers just like us.  Oh and they also give out black garbage for your stuff, hahahah


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> don't fall for this man's trap, his tank is on steroid, the dwarf sagg I gave him become gigantic, 8+ inches of leaves! :hihi:
> 
> add:
> there are also the most healthy aromatica I've ever seen, really thick stems and side shots all over, forgot to steal it from his tank last time I went to his place...


Lol I need to trim them every 2 weeks. One of your dwarf sags grew all the way to the top. I'll give you some aromaticas. :smile:


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hahah yeah they are extremely precise. First time I played with the settings, it felt like several needle valves combine into one. Ridiculous amount of control on these things even for 60 dollars.
> 
> Capitalism baby!
> 
> ...


Nice stand


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

Ah! 
I am getting close with my build, the parts should all be arriving this week. My last issue is the CGA 320, the Matheson 8-590 I purchased has a weird CGA fitting, which I believe is a 580 (which it is stamped) But it doesn't look like the fitting on this website.

http://www.concoa.com/cgachart.html

I'm looking at all the different threat sizes, and would anyone happen to be familiar on what it is. I'm going to try to find one and pull it from Amazon/the bay so it can be here by the end of this week. Anyone know of the sizes!

Betta, my wife gave me the go ahead on the Berkurt, but I'm trying to get her to let me get another tank with CO2 so I may ask about that SMC again.

Thanks,
Ben


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

the matheson 8 is old Harris standard CGA 320 thread stem, it is 1/2-27 thread.
the part number from western enterprise for this old Harris stem is "CO-7".


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

Ah! Yes it is. Thanks for the prompt response!


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

So this http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php?crn=71&rn=449&action=show_detail&edit_item=0 should work. I assume that CGA320 & CGA320FT are the same, and a standard plastic seal for the CGA320 would be universal.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

What is the maximum recommended orifice size for solenoid? I found a few solenoids but the orifice size is more than 1.6.


----------



## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

Betta,
Is this normal on a parker veriflo reg? I'm referring to the opening on the second stage.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

^ completely normal.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> What is the maximum recommended orifice size for solenoid? I found a few solenoids but the orifice size is more than 1.6.


not matter, it is the connection port size, wattage and working pressure rating that matter.

but if the orifice is big, generally means lower max working pressure rating or higher power consumption.



vvDO said:


> Betta,
> Is this normal on a parker veriflo reg? I'm referring to the opening on the second stage.


As oldpunk mention, it is normal. It is a release port to equalize the pressure(the outside of diaphragm and the atmosphere)


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

My Concoa 432 has arrived. Still waiting for the HPT500.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

handlebar said:


> So this http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com/store.php?crn=71&rn=449&action=show_detail&edit_item=0 should work. I assume that CGA320 & CGA320FT are the same, and a standard plastic seal for the CGA320 would be universal.


CGA320 is standard thread, the FT likely indicates fine thread. The two are not interchangeable.

A standard nylon washer will work for both, however.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

I am ok. The CGA320 is standard and no actual FT on the nut, the oddball thread for the inlet on the Matheson 8-590 is FT 2 1/2 | 1/2 27 FT. So all is well! All my parts are in tomorrow and pictures are soon to follow!


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> My Concoa 432 has arrived. Still waiting for the HPT500.




nice completely new!

no rush to get the rest parts, will bring them to you, the best.


----------



## C02 (Jan 28, 2013)

Hey guys I've found a used Concoa 432 and seller wanted $75. The condition is very good. What do you think?


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> nice completely new!
> 
> no rush to get the rest parts, will bring them to you, the best.


Thanks!


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

Did my tank not get filled as much as I was told or what could be causing this;

I had my 10# tank half filled on Sunday, the reason it was half filled is because the guy filling it said since it was so big and it wasn't cold enough it wasn't filling. So he said he got it to 5lbs full. I got back home and hooked up my built regulator for the first time and my in pressure read 650, this morning its reading 450, and my out pressure fluctuated from 15 PSI to about 8. I did a leak check yesterday and found a leak, on one of my connections, tightened everything up and did a leak test on the whole system twice, no leak. I will run another test this evening just to confirm it for the 3rd time.

Any ideas? I'm going to go somewhere else and have my 10# filled.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

A 10 pound cylinder is too big to fill? 

Time to go somewhere else.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

So its sounding like its undergassed?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

You're cylinder should be frozen at the time of fill. A reputable place won't do it otherwise.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

Ok, so I need stick the tank literally in the freezer and take it to get gassed tomorrow evening. I will do that.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

I finally found a place to fill it, they said that the Paintball places just use the pressure to fill your tank, the tanks at larger Oxygen & Machine shops use a pump to actually pump the CO2 liquid into the tank. Just some good information if you don't want to freeze your tank.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ See that what I was confused about. The paintball place told me to put my tank in the fridge but when I filled my 5lb they just didn't care. You guys ever seen the tank they use to fill cylinders? Massive! Like a missile hooked up to some other crazy thing. Also, expect the tank to be ICE cold when you get it back. Mine was almost too cold to hold on too. 

It's about time I refilled my 20 oz paintball, still going strong at 0 liquid left hahahah weird.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Finally got all the regulators. It's Time to turn them into something useful for the planted tanks!


























This Airgas is my favorite.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

That air gas regulator looks a bit funny, hahahah if you know what I mean hahahahah


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Finally got all the regulators. It's Time to turn them into something useful for the planted tanks!


well, looks like you need to place me a visit, and bring all the regulators you have. :hihi:

The shinny airgas should be a Concoa 312 chassis regulator, not really sure but the possibility is high.


----------



## handlebar (Feb 7, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ See that what I was confused about. The paintball place told me to put my tank in the fridge but when I filled my 5lb they just didn't care. You guys ever seen the tank they use to fill cylinders? Massive! Like a missile hooked up to some other crazy thing. Also, expect the tank to be ICE cold when you get it back. Mine was almost too cold to hold on too.
> 
> It's about time I refilled my 20 oz paintball, still going strong at 0 liquid left hahahah weird.


I could understand why a place without a pump would want you to freeze it, but with the pump it nullifies that part. The 10lb was completely frosted the whole way around and took less that 1-2 minutes to fill. The guy at the Paintball placed struggled for 20 minutes and barely got anything. My PSI is now reading 800PSI.


----------



## mistahoo (Apr 25, 2012)

Anyone have input on these all-in-one type regulators?

CORALVUE DICI MINI TWO STAGE CO2 PRESSURE REGULATOR WITH SOLENOID BUBBLE COUNTER

and this one?

http://www.aquariumplants.com/CarbonDoser_Electronic_Co2_Regulator_p/co2.htm


----------



## mistahoo (Apr 25, 2012)

Was also thinking of getting the Milwaukee MA957 all-in-one package and replacing the needle valve for a Nupro Swagelok 1/4" Metering Valve or a Swagelok Part SS-4LA Metering Valve. Then replacing the bubble counter for a JBJ 2-in-1 Bubble counter and check valve or some other bubble counter. Would the part swapping be better than what is included in the Milwaukee MA957?


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

mistahoo said:


> Anyone have input on these all-in-one type regulators?
> 
> CORALVUE DICI MINI TWO STAGE CO2 PRESSURE REGULATOR WITH SOLENOID BUBBLE COUNTER
> 
> ...


DICI 's definition of TWO STAGE, is two gauges.

And the Carbon Doser Electronic system, OUTPUT PRESSURE RISE still exists.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showpost.php?p=3165641&postcount=3



mistahoo said:


> Was also thinking of getting the Milwaukee MA957 all-in-one package and replacing the needle valve for a Nupro Swagelok 1/4" Metering Valve or a Swagelok Part SS-4LA Metering Valve. Then replacing the bubble counter for a JBJ 2-in-1 Bubble counter and check valve or some other bubble counter. Would the part swapping be better than what is included in the Milwaukee MA957?


Do not touch the SS-4LA, it is high flow L series metering valve, get the S series or M series.
and you can build a system if have tools and do enough homework, both Darkblade and Oldpunk have instruction thread to guide you through. 

BTW, is your last name Wu?


----------



## mistahoo (Apr 25, 2012)

Yeah Johnny Wu lmao. Nah my last name is Ho! Lol. Good to know dici is just two gauge and not two stage. Thanks. 

I was looking at darkblade's primer and went shopping around [Ebay Link Removed] With everything together it'll easily cost me over $150 and that's not including the tank which is about $70. A decent two stage reg was $80-100. Solenoid was $20-40. Metering valve $20-40. Bubble counter + check valve $10-20. There's also the tubing, drop checker, and diffusers. The Milwaukee looked like a great option. 


Sent from my spaceship using Tapatalk 2.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Quick question Beta or anyone. The spec on some of the regulators states 40psi max output but the units usually come with a higher psi low gauge (60+ psi). Why is that?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

So you can't kill the gauge by maxing it out.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

mistahoo said:


> With everything together it'll easily cost me over $150 and that's not including the tank which is about $70. A decent two stage reg was $80-100. Solenoid was $20-40. Metering valve $20-40. Bubble counter + check valve $10-20. There's also the tubing, drop checker, and diffusers. The Milwaukee looked like a great option.


This is where looking for deals on eBay will result in more savings (but can also result in aggravation if you are not patient).

There has been more attention on pressurized CO2 in the last few years, so demand has gone up, while supply has stayed the same (or gone down a little), so prices are naturally a little higher.

In general, for pressurized CO2, you get what you pay for.



AlanLe said:


> Quick question Beta or anyone. The spec on some of the regulators states 40psi max output but the units usually come with a higher psi low gauge (60+ psi). Why is that?


I don't think there is a particular reason, but if you were to (say) accidentally set your working pressure to 75 PSI and the pressure relief valve were to go off, you would be able to see why. If the gauge was maxed at 40 PSI, and the pressure relief valve went off, you wouldn't be able to determine why (you could assume that the working pressure was above 40 PSI, but you wouldn't be able to conclude that definitively).


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Just letting you guys know that there is a brand new victor sgt500 on fleabay. Seller is willing to let it go for $100+shipping. Just send him an email. I think this is a fair deal especially when you are buying it to use.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Just letting you guys know that there is a brand new victor sgt500 on fleabay. Seller is willing to let it go for $100+shipping. Just send him an email. I think this is a fair deal especially when you are buying it to use.


thanks for the heads up, but I have to let it pass, I have two at this time.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

finally the diy pressurized system slows down, weather is good and people are busy doing something else. I received only a couple pms in the last two days, huge drop from the more than 20 pms a day during the cold months, relief:icon_cool:icon_cool


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Free tech support and didn't even charge... good guy Bettail I wonder how many PMs Oldpunk and Darkblade got during that time too.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I've had to clear my pm folder a few times now. It has slowed down a bit now though.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Just curious who is 'Left C' on Barrreport? I think he started the cult???


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Ask him yourself. He's banned here but is still active on the Barr Report and apc. He can be tough to get a hold of lately as he's dealing with some health issues.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Can we use this solenoid? I got it for $10 oh well.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

it is a yes, but the max pressure it can hold is 30 psi(manufacture rating, actual push through pressure can be as high as 45 psi), and both ports of this solenoid 1/4" npt, too big.

the 1/4" npt ports are ok because you can use 1/4" npt fittings/adapters, but the pressure rating is low so have to use this solenoid with low back pressure diffusers, and the regulator output pressure, better not set higher than 30 psi.



AlanLe said:


> Just curious who is 'Left C' on Barrreport? I think he started the cult???


he introduced DIY pressurized system to a lot of fellow hobbyists, and started the VICTOR regulator cult.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> it is a yes, but the max pressure it can hold is 30 psi(manufacture rating, actual push through pressure can be as high as 45 psi), and both ports of this solenoid 1/4" npt, too big.
> 
> the 1/4" npt ports are ok because you can use 1/4" npt fittings/adapters, but the pressure rating is low so have to use this solenoid with low back pressure diffusers, and the regulator output pressure, better not set higher than 30 psi.


Thanks! I probably not going to use it. By the way is there a guideline for check valve? Like crack pressure and pressure rating...



oldpunk78 said:


> Ask him yourself. He's banned here but is still active on the Barr Report and apc. He can be tough to get a hold of lately as he's dealing with some health issues.


He seems to be a nice guy. I hope he gets better with his health issues.


Bettatail said:


> he introduced DIY pressurized system to a lot of fellow hobbyists, and started the VICTOR regulator cult.


Is there a reason behind Victor regulators? To me they all regulators have the same design. However the Matheson 3810 is :eek5:


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

A few years ago, the vts's could be easily found for cheap on fleabay. That was pretty much why. Not so much anymore.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Thanks! I probably not going to use it. By the way is there a guideline for check valve? Like crack pressure and pressure rating...


Actually, there are many different brands, industrial grade and less than 2 psi cracking pressure.
The Parker, swagelok and similar checks valves are expensive because the material and high pressure rating(not cracking pressure), other good check valves can be much lower in price because they are not the high pressure and around 200 psi as minimum, such valves, the familiar ones are SMC, clippard, fabco, bimba, and a lot others.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> Actually, there are many different brands, industrial grade and less than 2 psi cracking pressure.
> The Parker, swagelok and similar checks valves are expensive because the material and high pressure rating(not cracking pressure), other good check valves can be much lower in price because they are not the high pressure and around 200 psi as minimum, such valves, the familiar ones are SMC, clippard, fabco, bimba, and a lot others.


I have 2 Parker check valves. Found them for $10 each but the end connectors are 1/4. All I need now are 3 SMC solenoids. I can get the NPT fittings from local hardware stores.



oldpunk78 said:


> A few years ago, the vts's could be easily found for cheap on fleabay. That was pretty much why. Not so much anymore.


I'm glad that I found 3 brand new regulators for a very good price. I did what you said, email and bug the seller lol.


----------



## tizzite (Mar 28, 2010)

I posted this question, but wanted to ask it here. Will an ideal valve make a paintball ASA setup safe? The ideal valve can handle pressure up to 3000 psi, and the paintball tank only goes up to 800. Should I just get a standard rig?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

The ideal valve will not fail connected directly to the paintball tank. If there is a problem down the line somewhere, the worst case scenario would be your tubing exploding and breaking your aquarium. (worst case.)


----------



## tizzite (Mar 28, 2010)

Oh, I see- a regulator will ensure the pressure doesn't exceed a certain value, whereas the paintball ASA will just let pressure build up. Ok, I'm gonna go with a dual stage.

After reading some other threads about needle valves I think I understand what I need to do now. Check the bay every day for the model numbers of good dual stage regs that have a max output pressure of 50-100 psi, and buy any that look in good shape and have a good price. Email the seller questions on how it operates and check the return policy. Do the same for recommended metering valves. Within a month I should have a pretty decent rig.

I'm just gonna get a dual stage reg, paintball adapter and needle valve for now. I'm really happy that I can buy this stuff incrementally. When I get a bigger planted tank I can get a solenoid, built in bubble counter and a 5 lb cylinder then.

Thanks for answering all these questions. I imagine you get the same ones over and over again. I've been asking questions on this forum off and on for years, but moving around for school has interfered with me getting a decent setup until recently.

How do you guys know so much about CO2?? Is it from your job or do you just do insane amounts of research?


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

That happen to someone before right? Anyways, tizzite, you just have to research the parts and read their manuals. Making a rig is the easy part, the hard part is trying to source all the items you want. What you get at the end is well worth it. 

You can do what I did, pm Bettail and Oldpunk and build your own. Or you can skip all of that and buy one their prebuild one. I used to think their prices were expensive but after building my own, I came to realize where the high price comes from.


----------



## DaveFish (Oct 7, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> You're cylinder should be frozen at the time of fill. A reputable place won't do it otherwise.


That makes sense. That is why in the winter my tank is at 1600 PSI and in the summer it is at 800 PSI. I get mine filled at a welding shop. I doubt they freeze their canisters before filling and probably couldn't convince them to do so. I can't think of any location around here that keeps the cylinders frozen.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Should be the opposite, higher temperate gives you higher psi. 800 psi in winter, 1600 psi in an oven, unless you live at the equator of the earth.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

If the delivery gauge on a regulator comes with 60 psi, can you actually run at 60psi or much lower? I have 2 regs that have 60psi output. So not sure what the actual delivery range is.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ You have to run it lower. You can run it whatever max output psi the regulator has. Unless someone switch the gauges, I'm guessing it's either 15 - 30 psi max as the HP gauge is only 60.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

So is it safe to run 5-10 psi higher than what the pdf specified? My HPT500 has 2-40psi deliver range.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> If the delivery gauge on a regulator comes with 60 psi, can you actually run at 60psi or much lower? I have 2 regs that have 60psi output. So not sure what the actual delivery range is.


normally the actual preset max output pressure is 2/3-3/4 of the LPG.

Sometimes the pressure gauges are too low or too high of range, depends on who put the gauges on the regulator.

check the .pdf for the exact model of the regulator you have, you will know what is the manufacture default max output pressure.



AlanLe said:


> So is it safe to run 5-10 psi higher than what the pdf specified? My HPT500 has 2-40psi deliver range.


You can run it a little bit higher than the max, if the output pressure can be adjusted more than the max.
safe or not, can't answer you this question.


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

Hey all - I'm ready to put my rig together finally. Any comments?

Regulator - (Air Products E12-C144A)
 * Repurposed stainless steel 2 stage oxygen regulator
* Max output of 10 psi
* Will be using a small ceramic diffuser due to low pressure

Solenoid - (SMC VCA21-3G-5-02N-F)
* 110 VAC grommet
* 1/4 NPT ports
* 145 psi max operating pressure

Needle Valve - (Swagelok B-4MG)
* Plated brass
* medium flow valve
* 1/4 tube fittings

Been a learning experience for sure. Would do it a little differently if I were starting again but who wouldn't.

Appreciate the feedback.

Ozzy


----------



## steakman (Feb 3, 2012)

Bettatail said:


> normally the actual preset max output pressure is 2/3-3/4 of the LPG.


Check your PM, Bettatail.

SM


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Ozymandius said:


> Hey all - I'm ready to put my rig together finally. Any comments?
> 
> Regulator - (Air Products E12-C144A)
> * Repurposed stainless steel 2 stage oxygen regulator
> ...


get another solenoid, you can talk to alanle, he has a low pressure rating solenoid that is ok for the regulator.


the 110v AC solenoid, if there is no ground prone, avoid it.
and the current solenoid you have, is a high power consumption, will run really hot.



steakman said:


> Check your PM, Bettatail.
> 
> SM


checking pm right now.


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> get another solenoid, you can talk to alanle, he has a low pressure rating solenoid that is ok for the regulator.
> 
> 
> the 110v AC solenoid, if there is no ground prone, avoid it.
> and the current solenoid you have, is a high power consumption, will run really hot.


 
Thanks, Bettatail. The solenoid was the part I was least comfortable with. Just to clarify, the problem with this solenoid is not the max pressure rating but the fact that it is ungrounded and that it has a high power consumption leading to heat and early failure?

Your prior comment to AlanLe on his solenoid was that it would work but that the low pressure rating would not allow him to use an inline diffuser which requires a higher pressure. However, this works great for me because I have a low pressure regulator and am forced to have either a reactor or a ceramic diffuser anyway.

Funny thing is that when I looked at the pdf for the solenoid, I saw as positives 
1) 110 VAC so that I would not have to use an adapter
2) 1/4 npt so it would match the 1/4 fittings I had everywhere else
3) 1mpa (145 psi) pressure rating so I would have flexibility in the future if I wanted to switch the regulator

I had been unconcerned by the power rating 7.5 VA (5.3 W) for the AC version since some of the Burkerts being used run at 8 W. I had thought to attach a heat sink to the aluminum base of the solenoid similar to what FlyingHellFish did.

But I agree that is not ideal and the ground is a safety issue. Thanks for the feedback.

Ozzy


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

Hey Bettatail --

In reading over my prior post, it comes across as a little snarky and argumentative. That was not my intention at all. I am genuinely appreciative of the feedback and for the other posts you have made from which I have been educating myself.

Rather, I was trying to communicate that I did attempt to inform myself prior to my selections. The lesson for myself and others is that you really don't know what you don't know until it comes to bite you. In my case, the result is relatively benign because you, OldPunk, DarkBlade, and all of the other more experienced plant tankers are kind enough to act as backstops. Thx.

Ozzy.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Actually, I think the way you post the questions make it a lot easier to answer. It shows you at least read the pdf on the items you are considering, saves us from reading them ourselves.

Solenoid:

If you haven't brought it yet, you can buy one from Betta tail, he has it for cheap. If not, call up SMC and ask them what kind of temp a continuous use 5.3W Solenoid will reach, I'm certain you won't like the answer. I personally found the 1/8 DC version to be hot but then again it's Stainless Steel. 

Solenoid Pressure: 

It should be listed as vacuum to "max" so if it's 145 psi max then as long as you don't go over that psi you will be fine. 

From my experience: 

Every solenoid in continuous use will generate some heat, the nice thing about the SMC is the mount brackets which lets you add a fan. Add a small chipset cpu fan and there will be a huge reduction in heat. This only works for Stainless steel and other metals by the way. 

Oh and the blue led lights gives your Co2 regulator twice the horsepower, I might even add some VTEC stickers on the cylinder ~ joke.


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

Likely that I will replace the solenoid. After all, why ask for advice when you're not going to follow it. I like to play with my toys so it follows that I'd like to touch the durn parts without getting third degree burns. 

The problem with these auction timers is that you make very quick decisions. I looked over the product PDF and said check to everything I saw. Power usage was buried and when I finally saw it, I rationalized it because I had already clicked the buy it now.


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^
> Oh and the blue led lights gives your Co2 regulator twice the horsepower, I might even add some VTEC stickers on the cylinder ~ joke.


Gotta be honest. The blue light was way cool. I also think I am jonesing for your cabinet. I like the glass in it. Where did you pick it up? It goes well with the color of the red tank.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

It's called the BESTA, retail for 100. Glossy glass top is 20. I think they discontinue the red glass panels, they were clearance items for 20. 

About the heat:

SMC told me that the only time the heat will be an issue is if it's enclosed with no air flow, otherwise it's fine. I'm not sure about your particular model tho, it goes draw more power than mine. At least you got the handy brackets and it's Stainless steel outer body, any type of air flow will reduced it significantly. There is also a mounting bracket that came with my solenoid, you can add a bigger fan with even MORE LEDs. 

By the way , got any pics of the regulator and items?


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

Thx for the cabinet info. Will post my parts when I go back to the office next week. This is going to be for the office tank.

Ozzy


----------



## Jahn (Apr 26, 2013)

btw folks, a no-duh moment for a new CO2 guy - when filling the JBJ bubble counter, which for some reason only unscrews from the bottom of the plastic thread instead of the top so you have to hold the those regulator & tank to get it on upside down without spilling the water inside the checker - run some gas through it before connecting it to a check valve further down the line. reason? any water or whatever it is that you fill it with that might get in the tube after the bubble counter will prevent the CO2 behind it from getting past and through the check valve. thus, running it before connecting the tube to the check valve allows the tube to "spit" out any water before the CO2, and once it's just CO2 coming through, go ahead and connect the check valve. i was wondering why the bubbles weren't coming - it was because the CO2 had nowhere to go, stoppered by the water in the tube!


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

^ the top does unscrew. You did it the hard way.


----------



## Jahn (Apr 26, 2013)

Man I tried really hard but I didn't want to crack it! The bottom gives way way before the top budges, which it doesn't. The only thing that unscrews from the top for me is the cap that secures the tube to the counter.


----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

All the JBJ bubble counters I have used so far unscrew from both ends. When filling the bubble counter with water (or glycerin/mineral oil), I have always filled it up "normally" without having to resort to flipping the entire rig upside down.


----------



## Jahn (Apr 26, 2013)

The next time the water evaps for a refill i'll use some pliers for the top then, ha!


----------



## Mantis992 (Feb 13, 2013)

Do you guys cut your teflon tape to size width wise so the top and bottom of the fitting are free? Or do you squish the tape into position without cutting it?

Sorry if this has been asked before, but I didn't see any other posts about the topic. 

Thanks.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Mantis992 said:


> Do you guys cut your teflon tape to size width wise so the top and bottom of the fitting are free? Or do you squish the tape into position without cutting it?
> 
> Sorry if this has been asked before, but I didn't see any other posts about the topic.
> 
> Thanks.


single density teflon tape


----------



## Mantis992 (Feb 13, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> single density teflon tape



Dang, thats a sweet diagram. Thanks a ton for posting that. It was super helpful for me and I am sure others will find it useful too.


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Mantis992 said:


> Dang, thats a sweet diagram. Thanks a ton for posting that. It was super helpful for me and I am sure others will find it useful too.


actually these pictures are old and I posted them in some of the TPT threads for two years. :icon_roll


----------



## Ozymandius (Jan 13, 2013)

An oldie but a goodie.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Bettatail said:


> actually these pictures are old and I posted them in some of the TPT threads for two years. :icon_roll


Oh man, why haven't I seen those! That would saved me a good amount of teflon..... 

Only when I'm done do I see these awesome diagram... :icon_eek:


----------



## Mantis992 (Feb 13, 2013)

Luckily the tape is only a couple bucks:icon_roll


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ I'm dirt poor man....


----------



## Mantis992 (Feb 13, 2013)

I dont know, I have seen that fancy ADA tank and regulator:icon_wink


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Anyone selling a matheson 3810?


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Anyone selling a matheson 3810?


I want to get one too, 
there is a Parker hannifin on the bay currently.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> I want to get one too,
> there is a Parker hannifin on the bay currently.


I saw that Parker. Kind of rusty looking. I just want the Matheson 3810. You want to buy some of my regulators? I don't know why I buy this many.


----------



## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

What thread size is the concoa 432? 1/4-??


----------



## trix25 (Apr 26, 2013)

stupid question but what is the difference between a center fold tape and one that is not? is it just the 1/2" fold in half? and if so what is the benefit of doing that? 



Bettatail said:


> single density teflon tape


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

trix25 said:


> stupid question but what is the difference between a center fold tape and one that is not? is it just the 1/2" fold in half? and if so what is the benefit of doing that?


most of the teflon tape we can find are single density, and to center fold it, make it thicker. another benefit is pure cosmetic, a 1/4" wide tape wrap around the threads is better than 1/2" tape, which will leave less tape out in the visible area.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

for years of planted tank fish keeping, I feel stupid because just found out the proper fertilizing method.

first of all, most of the aquatic plants absorb the nutrition from the soil, so to target the water dosing fertilizing is on the wrong track, very wrong track even this method does work.
and there is polymer coated fertilizer, granular what we call.
the trick to apply polymer coated fertilizer in the substrate, is the right amount and to further prolong the releasing period of the fertilizer which is 3 month the most under submerged condition.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> for years of planted tank fish keeping, I feel stupid because just found out the proper fertilizing method.
> 
> first of all, most of the aquatic plants absorb the nutrition from the soil, so to target the water dosing fertilizing is on the wrong track, very wrong track even this method does work.
> and there is polymer coated fertilizer, granular what we call.
> the trick to apply polymer coated fertilizer in the substrate, is the right amount and to further prolong the releasing period of the fertilizer which is 3 month the most under submerged condition.


You just opened a can of worms lol. There is a long list of debates when it comes to ferts. My experience is to experiment and observe. It works for me


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> You just opened a can of worms lol. There is a long list of debates when it comes to ferts. My experience is to experiment and observe. It works for me


I know, but can't keep my mouth shut.
both methods work, but I can't bear with the constantly adjusting water parameters.
and for EI method, I don't against it because its goal is to push the max plant growth with a combination of aspects involved.

I will leave this topic to others, it will be time consuming to debate.


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## Smellydeli (Jun 14, 2012)

I see that someone here bought that $40 Linde regulator :icon_excl


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Smellydeli said:


> I see that someone here bought that $40 Linde regulator :icon_excl


which Linde?


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## Smellydeli (Jun 14, 2012)

Bettatail said:


> which Linde?


Linde CB 200/2

I saw it earlier on evilbay but didn't like the gauge resolution.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

There have been a lot of nice finds lately. I found a sgt500 the other day for $50.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> There have been a lot of nice finds lately. I found a sgt500 the other day for $50.


Thats a great find. There must be a better source than fleabay.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

AlanLe said:


> Thats a great find. There must be a better source than fleabay.


Not really. You just need to get creative with your searches sometimes. The deals usually happen when the seller doesn't really know what they have. There's a lot of mis-labeling. ..


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> Not really. You just need to get creative with your searches sometimes. The deals usually happen when the seller doesn't really know what they have. There's a lot of mis-labeling. ..


You can cut the middle man (fleabay) and go straight to the source. Usually those surplus auctions.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

AlanLe said:


> You can cut the middle man (fleabay) and go straight to the source. Usually those surplus auctions.


Ya, that would be great if you live in a larger market city. Unfortunately for me, I live far away.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## ryu1 (Aug 26, 2011)

Hi, the connection on my nv developed a small leak I just noticed last night. Attached is the picture (red) where the leak is coming out. I dont really want to disassemble it, is there any glue I can permanently sealed the leak? Thanks.


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## jbrady33 (Jun 7, 2012)

Serious question about 'lesser' Co2 setups. I know the "paintball on/off valve" setups are dangerous (no regulator, everything is on the needle valve", but what about the GLA atomics like the V2:

http://greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/atomic-paintball-co2-regulator-v2.html

Do these have a real pressure regulator in them, or are they just a fancy version of the on/off valve setups?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

You'll have to take it apart. 

Yes, it's a real regulator.


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## ryu1 (Aug 26, 2011)

No other option? I dont mind if it is permanently sealed and never be able to take them apart.


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## jbrady33 (Jun 7, 2012)

Thanks oldpunk!


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

ryu1 said:


> No other option? I dont mind if it is permanently sealed and never be able to take them apart.


Not that I would recommend.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

after a week of crazy working schedule, now I pop my head, but please don't shoot.
will take care of the people that need help, as well as the requests on the co2 parts or systems.
expect nice freebies, again, sorry for the delay.

add:
PMs are killing me, .......


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

Sorry for throwing your name around 

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

OVT said:


> Sorry for throwing your name around
> 
> via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


:help:
I am tripping on my busy working schedule.

and Josh just have a new baby, he is busy dad taking care of the children.

and Anthony is busy travelling around the world....


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

Just quit your job: you cold be making $7/hr on TPT...

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

OVT said:


> Just quit your job: you cold be making $7/hr on TPT...
> 
> via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


:icon_neut, 8 hours a day on TPT barely support me for the gas expenses


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> :help:
> and Anthony is busy travelling around the world....


To be correct, I am working halfway around the world 

That reminds me, I should update my profile.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Does anyone know how to mount this Swagelok quick release?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Do you have the other side?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> Do you have the other side?


That's all I got. Yes I think there is the other end that connects to this end.


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## creekbottom (Apr 5, 2012)

If I want to run two tanks off of one CO2 bottle what is the better option?

1) one solenoid then split to 2 needle valves

2) each needle valve also has it's own solenoid.

The lights will be timed the same so it could be the same solenoid, that would probably be easier. One tank is farther away so am I going to have trouble getting gas to the tank? Will the distance affect the delivery pressure from the needle valve?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

creekbottom said:


> If I want to run two tanks off of one CO2 bottle what is the better option?
> 
> 1) one solenoid then split to 2 needle valves
> 
> ...


Option 2 is more suitable since you have 2 tanks. Each tank demands different amount of co2.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

AlanLe said:


> Option 2 is more suitable since you have 2 tanks. Each tank demands different amount of co2.


Having two solenoids will only afford each aquarium to be controlled on a separate schedule. 

Having a single solenoid, but two needle valves will still allow you to control the amount of CO2 to each aquarium.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

I stumbled on a Matheason 9467. This is VCR compatible. Im wondering if there is any vcr to non vcr adapter? Or is there another way to mount regular npt thread fittings to this reg?


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## manlyfan76 (Jun 20, 2013)

How much CO2 will I go through on a 150 G tank? I am in the process of getting the parts together and was just thinking about cylinder size.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

manlyfan76 said:


> How much CO2 will I go through on a 150 G tank? I am in the process of getting the parts together and was just thinking about cylinder size.


20# will last you ~10 months. Assuming you are running it on a timer and not 24/7.


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## manlyfan76 (Jun 20, 2013)

AlanLe said:


> 20# will last you ~10 months. Assuming you are running it on a timer and not 24/7.


I will have a p.h. controller and timer no doubt, I was thinking of makeing my own diffuser thing as I am A swimming pool tech and have all the parts.
Thanks


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

manlyfan76 said:


> I will have a p.h. controller and timer no doubt, I was thinking of makeing my own diffuser thing as I am A swimming pool tech and have all the parts.
> Thanks


Look into building a cerge reactor. The best way to dissolve co2.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

manlyfan76 said:


> I will have a p.h. controller and timer no doubt, I was thinking of makeing my own diffuser thing as I am A swimming pool tech and have all the parts.
> Thanks


You would not need a timer if you are using a pH controller.


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## jbrady33 (Jun 7, 2012)

Is this regulator in the realm of possibilities, or a piece or crap and you'd be better off low-tech? :smile:

http://www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html


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## KTern (Mar 2, 2012)

jbrady33 said:


> Is this regulator in the realm of possibilities, or a piece or crap and you'd be better off low-tech? :smile:
> 
> http://www.harborfreight.com/regulator-gauge-94841.html


People on my local club thinks those are crap


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

questions?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> questions?


How long do we have before you dissappear for months on end?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> How long do we have before you dissappear for months on end?


Not sure, probably in August, but I will let you know, and please build systems and take care of the fellow hobbyists while I am away.


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## rdmustang1 (Oct 20, 2013)

I saw posts from Bettatail saying the Swagelok O series needle valves are ok for CO2 use. How OK are they? Do they tend to drift? I know they aren't as fine-tunable as the S series but can you fine tune between 1 and 2 bps?

I just bought one and have been told that it will be worthless for controlling flow.


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## alaskajeff (Jan 9, 2014)

Do you have any idea what size fittings aquatec regulators use ? I would like to upgrade the needle valve on mine.


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## neilshieh (Sep 6, 2010)

alaskajeff said:


> Do you have any idea what size fittings aquatec regulators use ? I would like to upgrade the needle valve on mine.


aquatek, azoo, milwaukee use 1/8 npt ports for solenoid, gauge, needle valve, etc.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

rdmustang1 said:


> I saw posts from Bettatail saying the Swagelok O series needle valves are ok for CO2 use. How OK are they? Do they tend to drift? I know they aren't as fine-tunable as the S series but can you fine tune between 1 and 2 bps?
> 
> I just bought one and have been told that it will be worthless for controlling flow.


not very ok, but ok.
make sure you set the regulator output pressure slightly more than the diffuser cracking pressure, and the bubble counter as close to the needle valve as possible(less cavity space between the bubble counter and the O series needle valve), will help a lot.


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## rdmustang1 (Oct 20, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> not very ok, but ok.
> make sure you set the regulator output pressure slightly more than the diffuser cracking pressure, and the bubble counter as close to the needle valve as possible(less cavity space between the bubble counter and the O series needle valve), will help a lot.


Thanks! I'm using a Cerges reactor. How does the spacing between the needle valve and the bubble counter affect the output of CO2?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

rdmustang1 said:


> Thanks! I'm using a Cerges reactor. How does the spacing between the needle valve and the bubble counter affect the output of CO2?


It doesn't.


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## alaskajeff (Jan 9, 2014)

neilshieh said:


> aquatek, azoo, milwaukee use 1/8 npt ports for solenoid, gauge, needle valve, etc.


Thanks !


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