# My DIY CO2 Reactor



## mcd19

Well I finally built my very first CO2 reactor after having used a diffuser for the last year or so. I have to say that I was impressed when I hooked it up and it actually worked. It would be wrong if I did not thank Tom Barr and Rex Grigg for all their great information that I found posted on numerous web sites. I basically just combined the elements I liked from each of their reactors and made my own version. This is what I did.

*First I gathered all the parts including:*

1- 2" reducing T with a 1/2" threaded side port
1- 2" Coupling slip
1- 2" Plug
1- 2" Reducer Bushing with a 1/2" threaded port
1- 12" Clear PVC pipe
2- 12" long 3/16" tubing
2- 1/2" hose barbs


*This is what all the parts look like laid out waiting to be assembled:*













*The first thing I did was drill two 3/16" holes in the top of the reducer bushing like so:*












*Then I inserted a 12" long 3/16" tube in one hole for the CO2 line to attach to and a 3" long tube that I will later attach an extra piece of CO2 tubing to with a valve so that I can release any built up gas at the top of the reactor:*












*After assembling all the pieces, this is what the finished product looks like. In this picture you can see the extra piece of CO2 tubing I attached to the 3" interior tube. It has a drip irrigation valve attached to the top which I will use to release any back pressure that builds up. Luckily the reactor has worked pretty efficiently and most of the CO2 injected is being dissolved. I have not had to release any trapped gas as of yet.:icon_lol: :*












*This is the reactor attached to my filter and CO2 System. Using clear PVC pipe allows you to use the 3/16" tube as a bubble counter so you know exactly how much CO2 is entering the reactor:*










*Well thats my reactor. Hope it helps anyone trying to build their own. Good Luck.roud:*


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## fshfanatic

did you forget the picture?


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## mcd19

fshfanatic said:


> did you forget the picture?



Sorry I was working on thread and posted it by mistake before I was finished. 
Here it is.


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## ikuzo

well there's that edit button


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## lescarpentier

Is that clear pvc schedule 40?


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## mcd19

lescarpentier said:


> Is that clear pvc schedule 40?



Yes it is. It fits regular PVC fittings and you can use regular cement and primer.


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## lescarpentier

mcd19 said:


> Yes it is. It fits regular PVC fittings and you can use regular cement and primer.


That's great! Now where can I find some?

Btw,that is a nice looking reactor that you built.Very clean...


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## honor

looks dope. worth the extra cost for the clear pvc imo.


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## honor

lescarpentier said:


> That's great! Now where can I find some?
> 
> Btw,that is a nice looking reactor that you built.Very clean...


http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/844/Clear-PVC-Pipe


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## mcd19

I bought mine from here:http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2480/Clear-PVC-Pipe This company sells the clear PVC by the foot and its hard to find a place that will sell it buy the foot. Most companies want you to purchase numerous feet of the stuff. This is also a great company to buy aquarium related supplies in general.


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## lescarpentier

Thanks a lot,guys!
Bookmarked.


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## honor

haha, was looking for this thread, this one should be a sticky


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## honor

where did you get the 3/16 rigid tubing?


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## Soujirou

Petco sells rigid tubing but I managed to score some more from a local fish store.

I like how the reactor is a hybrid between Tom Barr's and Rex Grigg's, it combines the best features of both. I was wondering where you purchased the reducing T. I couldn't find one so I had to resort to using a 2" T and another reducing bushing.


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## CL

If you could attack some kind on diffuser on the end of the longer tube, you could probably get better diffusion


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## milesm

mcd19 said:


> I bought mine from here:http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2480/Clear-PVC-Pipe This company sells the clear PVC by the foot and its hard to find a place that will sell it buy the foot. Most companies want you to purchase numerous feet of the stuff. This is also a great company to buy aquarium related supplies in general.


yeah, but check the prices for shipping. i was quoted a shipping cost of $9, more than the product itself.


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## Carpet-Pond

*Is cement needed on the barbs?*

This looks really nice. I'm wondering if it's necessary to use PVC cement on the
hose barbs when you screw them in or if they will seal just by screwing them in without worrying about leaks?


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## Jeff5614

I think you'd be good to use teflon tape around the threads of the hose barbs. At least I did that for mine with no leaks.


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## mcd19

Carpet-Pond said:


> This looks really nice. I'm wondering if it's necessary to use PVC cement on the
> hose barbs when you screw them in or if they will seal just by screwing them in without worrying about leaks?



You can just screw them in with a little teflon tape and it makes a tight fit. No need for pvc cement.


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## mcd19

clwatkins10 said:


> If you could attack some kind on diffuser on the end of the longer tube, you could probably get better diffusion



I thought about doing that but I am getting almost 100% diffusion. I almost never see any co2 bubbles coming from the spraybar and have never had to de-gas the reactor through the valve I attached to the top of the reactor.


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## Bugman

honor said:


> http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/844/Clear-PVC-Pipe


 
So, I see the PVC and a link to the barbs but I need a 5/8 for my XP2. Would the 1/2 barb work? 

Where did you get the rest of the parts. I went by a Ace Hardware but the smallest 2" reducers they had were 3/4", no 1/2".


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## Bugman

Did a little more searching on their website and I was able to find the other parts but never could find the 5/8's barbs. Went by Home Depot today and they had a 1/2 X 5/8 barb in their irrigation dept. Home D and Ace both had the parts but I would have had to put bushing inside of bushing to get to the 1/2" size needed. Hopefully I will have all the parts in by the first of the week so I can put them together. Thanks for the website and directions with picture.


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## Gatekeeper

Bugman,

Google search for 5/8" Hose barb gave me this....

http://www.clearpvcpipe.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=46


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## Bugman

gmccreedy said:


> Bugman,
> 
> Google search for 5/8" Hose barb gave me this....
> 
> http://www.clearpvcpipe.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=46


LOL, its all in what you type isn't it. I tried several different searches on google and couldn't come up with one. Or somehow I missed that link. Thanks.


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## mcd19

Bugman said:


> Did a little more searching on their website and I was able to find the other parts but never could find the 5/8's barbs.


I also found most of the parts I needed for my reactor on their website but also had to get one or two other parts from different places. Good luck constructing your reactor and let me know if you have a question.


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## Lnb

I have never, never worked with PVC but it looks like I will have to. So I will be asking some pretty stupid questions. Bear with me folks.

1. I have an Eheim 2217, 2213 and Rena's. Will the fittings from the plans work with these filters?

2. Is the release vent really necessary and if it is. What's this drip irrigation doo-hicky thing I need for it? Do I attach it to the rigid pipe?

3. Being lazy and after working all week. I'm just too tired to search and see if the lines for both the Eheim classics and Rena's are the same diameter. Does anyone know? 

4. I can use a hacksaw to cut this stuff, yes?



Addendum: OK, OK .......... I see photo #4 with the doo-hicky. I imagine the length of the tubing could be any size. I would make it shorter unless there is a reason for the added length.

I really like the fact that I can use it as a bubble counter. Multi tasking is :thumbsup: :thumbsup: in my book. This is the only reason I'm even going to attempt to do this!!


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## mcd19

1. I have an Eheim 2217, 2213 and Rena's. Will the fittings from the plans work with these filters?

*All the fittings will work. You will though have to purchase the appropriate hose barbs that will accommodate you hose size. (ex: 1/2",5/8",etc)*

2. Is the release vent really necessary and if it is. What's this drip irrigation doo-hicky thing I need for it? Do I attach it to the rigid pipe?

*It is not necessary. I put it there as a precaution but have not had to de-gas any CO2 since I started using the reactor.* 

3. Being lazy and after working all week. I'm just too tired to search and see if the lines for both the Eheim classics and Rena's are the same diameter. Does anyone know? 

*I don't use Rena cannisters so you will have to look that one up.*

4. I can use a hacksaw to cut this stuff, yes?

*If you buy the clear PVC already cut to size there is no other cutting.*



Addendum: OK, OK .......... I see photo #4 with the doo-hicky. I imagine the length of the tubing could be any size. I would make it shorter unless there is a reason for the added length.

*I made it a little long so it would be easy to bend it into a bucket or glass while de-gassing.*

I really like the fact that I can use it as a bubble counter. Multi tasking is :thumbsup: :thumbsup: in my book. This is the only reason I'm even going to attempt to do this!![/QUOTE]


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## Bugman

lnb said:


> 1. I have an Eheim 2217, 2213 and Rena's. Will the fittings from the plans work with these filters?


mcd used 1/2" barbs for his Eheim. I have Rena XP2's and didn't know the barb size. After doing a little searching on the net I discovered they use a 5/8" barb. So if you have Eheim's and Rena's you will need both the 1/2" and 5/8" barbs respectively. 

I couldn't find the 5/8" barbs on the website listed but did find them at Home Depot in the irrigation section. You can also get them from the site gmccreedy has listed above.


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## Soujirou

Does anyone have backflow issues with their reactor? I built three of them and I always had so much backflow that the irrigation valve on the gas release would slowly drip despite being closed. I am using an Eheim 2215.


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## Lnb

Thanks mcd19 and Bugman for your replies. :thumbsup: 



> Does anyone have backflow issues with their reactor? I built three of them and I always had so much backflow that the irrigation valve on the gas release would slowly drip despite being closed. I am using an Eheim 2215.


Good question!


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## Gatekeeper

I bet if that tube extended above the height of your tank with the release valve it would stop leaking.


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## Lnb

> I bet if that tube extended above the height of your tank with the release valve it would stop leaking


You're absolutely correct but it could/would also be about 4' long or longer. 

lol


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## Gatekeeper

lnb said:


> You're absolutely correct but it could/would also be about 4' long or longer.
> 
> lol



So? Its just airline tubing, run it up the back of your tank and tape it to the outflow or inflow. its tiny enough that you could disguise it... Just a reccomendation.


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## Lnb

> So? Its just airline tubing, run it up the back of your tank and tape it to the outflow or inflow. its tiny enough that you could disguise it... Just a reccomendation


I'm not knocking it. It is an absolutely perfect and simple solution to the leaking release valve. 

I just have a zillion wires, timers, voltage protectors, Co2 tubes and filter tubes running back there so the thought of running another length of anything makes me break out in a serious sweat. :eek5:

I can just see it now. I'm missing and no one can find me until they look in the tank stand. Glaring back at them is this alien with a zillion wires and tubes just waiting for it's next victim! 

Anyone else having this problem?? 

NO, I don't mean alien problem .......... heheeeee. I mean the backflow, leaky valve problem.


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## mcd19

I wouldn't worry too much about back flow. I have no issues with my reactor and most likely you won't either. Also don't concern yourself with the relief valve, it is not really needed and most reactors are built without them. Like I said before I have been using this reactor for more than six months and have not had to release any built up CO2 as of yet. I only inject CO2 for eight hours during my lighting period which is not enough time for any CO2 to build up at the top of the reactor.


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## Yassmeena

mcd19 said:


> I wouldn't worry too much about back flow. I have no issues with my reactor and most likely you won't either. Also don't concern yourself with the relief valve, it is not really needed and most reactors are built without them. Like I said before I have been using this reactor for more than six months and have not had to release any built up CO2 as of yet. I only inject CO2 for eight hours during my lighting period which is not enough time for any CO2 to build up at the top of the reactor.


I am totally new to this, and am considering setting up a DIY reactor like yours (nice job btw!), but I have a HOB filter. It seems that the water intake you designed feeds from the canister filter hose, correct?

Is there a way to adapt the water intake to a HOB filter?


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## lescarpentier

Yassmeena said:


> Is there a way to adapt the water intake to a HOB filter?


Nope..


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## mcd19

Yassmeena said:


> Is there a way to adapt the water intake to a HOB filter?



Unfortunately no. The reactor is designed to work with a cannister filter and needs the water flow that a canister provides.


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## leoslizards

Nice job on the reactor. Looks great but a bit expensive for the clear pvc. You used the 2" diameter pipe correct? 

Yassmeena I have the same problem, I use a hob filter. Maybe it's possible to do it if you modify the hob filter's uplift tube? I would try it but I made a vortex style reactor, but I don't even use co2. :|


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## Soujirou

I'm going to try making another reactor for my 30 gallon and Eheim 2215. I read in the "Diffuser or reactor" poll that a poster thought the cutoff between using one or the other was at 30 gallons. Does anyone think I should use a smaller diameter or length than 2" diameter and 12" long?


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## honor

like?


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## Lnb

> I'm going to try making another reactor for my 30 gallon and Eheim 2215. I read in the "Diffuser or reactor" poll that a poster thought the cutoff between using one or the other was at 30 gallons. Does anyone think I should use a smaller diameter or length than 2" diameter and 12" long?


I could be very wrong but I think what they mean about 30G being the cut-off point is how effective a diffuser is in tanks 30G and larger. 

Other than going with reactors for the sake of an uncluttered tank, I use diffusers in my 20L and 15G w/DIY Co2. I feel that with small tanks a diffuser is pretty efficient in distributing the Co2. With a 30G tank I could go either way. Anything larger I would definitely go with a reactor and pressurized Co2. 

Are you thinking of making a smaller reactor more in proportion to the size of the tank? I too would wonder if it would work though I've never seen anything other than the standard Barr and Rex sizes. I'm sure someone out there can work out the dynamics.

Might want to start a new thread if you don't get enough play from this one.


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## mcd19

leoslizards said:


> Nice job on the reactor. Looks great but a bit expensive for the clear pvc. You used the 2" diameter pipe correct?
> 
> Yassmeena I have the same problem, I use a hob filter. Maybe it's possible to do it if you modify the hob filter's uplift tube? I would try it but I made a vortex style reactor, but I don't even use co2. :|


Yes it is 2" diameter pipe and unfortunately a reactor does not work with a hob filter.


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## mcd19

Soujirou said:


> I'm going to try making another reactor for my 30 gallon and Eheim 2215. I read in the "Diffuser or reactor" poll that a poster thought the cutoff between using one or the other was at 30 gallons. Does anyone think I should use a smaller diameter or length than 2" diameter and 12" long?



I personally would not go any smaller than the dimensions above for your reactor because you need a decent column of water for the CO2 to dissolve into. Any smaller and the CO2 will not have enough time to fully absorb into the water before it returns into your tank. Also your Eheim 2215 is powerful enough to handle a 12" x 2" reactor so you should build the biggest reactor you can.

The poll you are referring to talks about when you use a reactor vs. a diffuser. In my opinion it really depends on what your preference is. I didn't like the way the diffuser and CO2 line looked in my tank, seeing as I like to keep my tank free of any unnecessary equipment when possible. I also did not like the bubbles created by a diffuser and building reactor solved both problems for me. 

Both a diffuser and a reactor will get the job done but in my opinion a reactor is more efficient and less intrusive when it comes to equipment in your tank.


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## Soujirou

Thanks for the reply and sorry for any confusion in my post. I was indeed referring to the cut off point in the effectiveness of a diffuser and reactor. While looking at parts I also realized that reducer bushings less than 2" do not seem to have enough room to drill a hole and stick rigid airline through.

Does anyone have tips on how to properly glue the rigid airline and the pvc bushing? I have noticed in my previous reactors that sometimes water seeps through that area. I usually put cement inside the hole, push the airline through, and put cement around the area of connection.


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## mcd19

Soujirou said:


> Does anyone have tips on how to properly glue the rigid airline and the pvc bushing? I have noticed in my previous reactors that sometimes water seeps through that area. I usually put cement inside the hole, push the airline through, and put cement around the area of connection.


Thats how I did it and I haven't had any problems. I made sure to add a generous amount of PVC glue to both sides of the openings after I pulled through the 3/16" rigid tubing to make sure there was a good seal.


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## Lnb

Can someone please take a look to see if these are the correct parts?

Reducer bushing:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1695/Reducer-Bushing/

1/2 hose barbs:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1655/Elbows-1-81-2-NPT-x-Barb/

Reducing T w/1/2" side port:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/870/Reducing-Tee-Slip-x-Slip-x-FNPT/

2" coupling slip:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/874/Couplings-Slip-x-Slip/

2" clear PVC pipe:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2480/Clear-PVC-Pipe/

Basically all I'm missing is:
2" plug. I've found ones with rounded ends but I'm looking for a flat one.

3/16" rigid tubing

I've been to 2 HD's and didn't find anything. The ones around here are total disasters, things thrown all around, no stock on popular items, etc. Besides I had Grumpy with me so I didn't have time to check out the irrigation dept. 

If I can get everything on-line it would make life soooooo much easier.


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## Soujirou

Those are the correct parts. I believe your first mistake was going to Home Depot ^~. Lowe's has a much better selection and you could probably find everything you need except for the reducing tee and the clear PVC. They should have a flat 2" plug except they could be out of stock.

The only place I have found rigid airline tubing is at Petco.com. It is Lee's Thinwall Rigid Tubing.


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## mcd19

lnb said:


> Can someone please take a look to see if these are the correct parts?
> 
> Reducer bushing:
> http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1695/Reducer-Bushing/
> 
> 1/2 hose barbs:
> http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/1655/Elbows-1-81-2-NPT-x-Barb/
> 
> Reducing T w/1/2" side port:
> http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/870/Reducing-Tee-Slip-x-Slip-x-FNPT/
> 
> 2" coupling slip:
> http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/874/Couplings-Slip-x-Slip/
> 
> 2" clear PVC pipe:
> http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2480/Clear-PVC-Pipe/
> 
> Basically all I'm missing is:
> 2" plug. I've found ones with rounded ends but I'm looking for a flat one.
> 
> 3/16" rigid tubing
> 
> I've been to 2 HD's and didn't find anything. The ones around here are total disasters, things thrown all around, no stock on popular items, etc. Besides I had Grumpy with me so I didn't have time to check out the irrigation dept.
> 
> If I can get everything on-line it would make life soooooo much easier.


The HD's in your area must really be terrible because a 2" plug is a standard PVC fitting. You should be able to find it at any plumbing supply store. If not do a search on line and you will find PVC supply websites that will have all the pieces you need. Also there are many places online where you can get the 3/16" tubing including: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/pro...TfMiVEHtX7zUblcPWT8PW4jSmR6VxBvw2U3CtQQgegK0_
and http://www.arcatapet.com/item.cfm?cat=464 and http://www.aquariumguys.com/thinwall-rigid-tubing1.html


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## Lnb

mcd19 said:


> The HD's in your area must really be terrible because a 2" plug is a standard PVC fitting. You should be able to find it at any plumbing supply store. If not do a search on line and you will find PVC supply websites that will have all the pieces you need. Also there are many places online where you can get the 3/16" tubing including: http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/pro...TfMiVEHtX7zUblcPWT8PW4jSmR6VxBvw2U3CtQQgegK0_
> and http://www.arcatapet.com/item.cfm?cat=464 and http://www.aquariumguys.com/thinwall-rigid-tubing1.html


Yes, the HD's in the NYC area are the pits. I asked someone at HD about the 2" reducing T w/1/2" side port and he snapped back "How do you know it comes that way!" I snapped back "Because I've seen it". So much for customer service. All the end plugs I've seen have rounded bottoms. The key is to find a flat one. I will try Lowes and worse comes to worse a plumbing supply store. I'll be down in South Jersey this weekend and try the HDs and Lowes there. It's more civilized.

I found the rigid tubing at "the pet place" while ordering other supplies there and I have the purple primer and glue coming in from D&S.

Thanks to all for the help. The saga continues ..............


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## Soujirou

When I went to hardware stores they had plenty of caps, which is what I believe you are referring to as plugs with rounded bottoms. Plugs were usually in shorter supply.


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## fritz

Oh man this is awesome!


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## Lnb

*Hunt for the 2" plug*

I'm batting zero at this point. Have yet to locate the 2" plug.

Oh, by the way and correct me if I'm wrong. I think the correct plumbing/PVC term for this part is "slip spigot plug".

Still looking.


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## Lnb

Still looking for the plug!

Which one is the correct one?

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(xj1oqu55e3wyfs45zxgb11md)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=44852

or

http://www.acehardwareoutlet.com/(xj1oqu55e3wyfs45zxgb11md)/productDetails.aspx?SKU=998011198

The second one does say:
Form permanent closure when solvent welds directly into fitting socket. 

First one does doesn't have any info about "fitting".

I really need to get this project done. I'm picking up my SuMo regulator this weekend, filling my tank sometime next week and hope to have the whole thing rollin' by the following weekend.

The quest continues .................................... :help:


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## Soujirou

I would imagine that both would work, but the first one is the most common and what I have been using.

I would recommend that when you do put this thing together, to use both prime and cement. It is 50x easier than with cement alone and they usually sell a small pack of two cans that is almost the same price as one can.


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## CL

I made one of these today


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## mcd19

lnb said:


> Still looking for the plug!
> 
> Which one is the correct one?


Both would work just fine. It must be a real pain not being able to just walk into your local neighborhood hardware store and just pick up the parts you need. I guess I was lucky.


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## CL

I was able to get all the stuff I needed at a shabby ace store  Guess I'm lucky too


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## Lnb

*Found it!!*

After visiting 4 HD's, 3 Lowes, phone inquiries to Ace and True Hardware stores in NJ, Staten Island and lower Manhattan. I finally found the 2" plug. 

They had three and I took all of them! Yipeeee ..................:bounce: 

Couple of more thoughts. Do you think plumbing the relief line back to the intake would work? Other than a drip irrigation valve is there something else I can use?


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## leoslizards

LOL what a mission!


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## Soujirou

Yeah it will work and when it does it creates a fine mist that the plants really respond too. Unfortunately that's because your impeller chops up the bubbles and makes a bit of noise. So it's not exactly good for the impeller.

I believe a drip irrigation valve is the only valve that will fit on tubing. Plus since so much CO2 is going through that line, you want to use plastic and not metal. They should be super easy to find. I don't use one because I only get a build up when the filter is off for a long period of time and allows a build up.


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## mcd19

lnb said:


> Do you think plumbing the relief line back to the intake would work? Other than a drip irrigation valve is there something else I can use?



I wouldn't concern my self with re-routing the bleed off line because if the reactor is built correctly, you will achieve almost 100% absorbtion with almost no CO2 buildup. I run my CO2 for 8 hours a day and have never had to release any built up CO.

As far as the drip irrigation valves go you can get them almost anywhere. Here are a few places:


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+8017&pcatid=8017


http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18285/si1380948/cl0/tlfmicroballvalvebarbxbarb


http://www.petsolutions.com/Micro-Ball-Valves+I48154602+C29.aspx


http://www.premiumaquatics.com/aquatic-supplies/Valves.html


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## Soujirou

Well I believe lnb is using DIY CO2 and that's not something you can/should turn off. Whenever I change the media in my filter, I have to turn off and drain my filter. And when I finally manage to figure out how to prime my filter, there is a lot of gas build up in the reactor. Even with my gas release going to the intake, it can take hours to get rid of the build up.


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## mcd19

Soujirou said:


> Well I believe lnb is using DIY CO2 and that's not something you can/should turn off. Whenever I change the media in my filter, I have to turn off and drain my filter. And when I finally manage to figure out how to prime my filter, there is a lot of gas build up in the reactor. Even with my gas release going to the intake, it can take hours to get rid of the build up.


Your right I forgot he was using a yeast setup. I guess if you are going to continuously run CO2 with a DIY CO2 system you will eventually have some buildup. It costs a little more money but going pressurized was the best money I ever spent on my aquarium. No maintenance and precession control of you CO2.


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## Lnb

mcd19 said:


> Your right I forgot he was using a yeast setup. I guess if you are going to continuously run CO2 with a DIY CO2 system you will eventually have some buildup. It costs a little more money but going pressurized was the best money I ever spent on my aquarium. No maintenance and precession control of you CO2.


Actually, I'm picking up my Sumo regulator tomorrow. It'll be a 20lb tank with a Sumo regulator split to three tanks. The 20g and the 5g hex will be using diffusers and the Co2 reactor will be for the 55g. :thumbsup: Just have to fill the tank sometime this week. Built the reactor. Put it all together and waalaa - sit back and watch everything grow! 

I have DIY on two 15g tanks. 

Do people use reactors with DIY??? I would think the Co2 output would be to variable. No?


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## Soujirou

The variability depends on how many bottles you use. I have 3 1L and I just swap one bottle out a week.


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## Lnb

*One more time*

OK, folks time is near. More questions.

Should I use pipe tape with the hose barbs when I screw them in?

Is there a specific order in which I should assemble this?

I know Bio balls are not used. What are the pro and cons. I guess once assembled I would never take them out again.

Sorry for all the questions and I certainly hope these are my last :iamwithst


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## Soujirou

Hmm, yes you should use teflon tape on the hose barbs, otherwise they will leak. You also have to wrap them in a certain direction but I can't remember which way. Just wrap it, screw it in the bushing and unscrew it. If the tape starts unraveling, remove the tape and wrap a new piece of tap on the other way.

First test how far down you need to stick the rigid airline into the bushing so that you can screw/unscrew the hose barb without hitting it. I think what I did was:

Drill holes in bushing
Prime and cement rigid airline into bushing (only apply P+C to bushing)
P+C second bushing into tee
P+C bushing w/rigid airline to coupling
P+C tee w/bushing to pipe
P+C coupling w/bushing + airline to pipe
Wrap and screw in hose bushing after drying

And that should cover it. Just make sure when you are putting the parts together you give them a 1/4 twist to ensure a continuous band of cement.

And I wouldn't use bioballs, they make noise and reduce your flow.


----------



## ccLansman

i recently built one as well. All you need to do is go to homedepot or like store and find a guy in the plumbing area, tell him what you are trying to do and he can find 100% of the stuff. Thats all i did, no hunting around, no endless asking of Q's... least amount of parts would be, pvc slip for the pipe, and reducer, reducer from 2 to 1/2 or what ever you want, then another reducer with threading, done, or just sleve and then reducer to 1/2 or so threading. They sell the L threaded guys in the sprinkler section.

...please make sure you use teflon tape as this will leak if not. Also get primer and pvc cement, dont skimp on the primer part. make sure you twist the tubes a little once on to get a good seal.


----------



## Lnb

ccLansman said:


> i recently built one as well. All you need to do is go to homedepot or like store and find a guy in the plumbing area, tell him what you are trying to do and he can find 100% of the stuff. Thats all i did, no hunting around, no endless asking of Q's... least amount of parts would be, pvc slip for the pipe, and reducer, reducer from 2 to 1/2 or what ever you want, then another reducer with threading, done, or just sleve and then reducer to 1/2 or so threading. They sell the L threaded guys in the sprinkler section.
> 
> ...please make sure you use teflon tape as this will leak if not. Also get primer and pvc cement, dont skimp on the primer part. make sure you twist the tubes a little once on to get a good seal.


Aaaah ............. I wish it was so easy here in NYC. Before taking on this project the closest I've come to PVC is lawn furniture.

You've got green, we have concrete. I had one Ace Hardware store in Manhattan tell me that they weren't allow to sell PVC pipe. There may be a bit of truth to this, since the NYC building code prohibits the use of PVC piping in highrise buildings.

I've got the primer and pvc cement. Keeping my fingers crossed everything goes well.


----------



## vance71975

mcd19 said:


> Yes it is 2" diameter pipe and unfortunately a reactor does not work with a hob filter.


It could be easily adapted to a Power head in the tank though couldn't it? Hook the Hose on the Power Head Pumping Water out to the reactor and then just putting a return Hose into the tank?


----------



## epicfish

vance71975 said:


> It could be easily adapted to a Power head in the tank though couldn't it? Hook the Hose on the Power Head Pumping Water out to the reactor and then just putting a return Hose into the tank?


You'd need a mighty "big" pump to power the reactor. And by big, I mean obtrusive in an in-tank setting.


----------



## leoslizards

How many GPH would it have to be? Would a Maxi-Jet 1200 be strong enough?


----------



## mcd19

leoslizards said:


> How many GPH would it have to be? Would a Maxi-Jet 1200 be strong enough?



I just don't think that a power head would move enough water to properly work a reactor. The output line on a power head is the size of regular airline. Most reactors are running off 1/2" to 5/8" filter hose. The reactor in this thread is specifically designed for a canister filter but I guess you could give it a try. If you got about 25 bucks and the time to build the reactor there's nothing to lose.


----------



## Gatekeeper

Actually I think the slower through the reactor the better. Gives the CO2 time to really dissolve into the water.

I have debated doing something like this (a HOB kind) just to see. Priming it would be the hardest thing IMO.

My Maxijet fits a 1/2" hose. I am running it right now with my surface skimmer.


----------



## mcd19

gmccreedy said:


> Actually I think the slower through the reactor the better. Gives the CO2 time to really dissolve into the water.



Slow is good but real slow is not good. The fact of the matter is you need to move the water and CO2 efficiently through the reactor so that you don't get a buildup of CO2 gas at the top of the reactor that will make the reactor noisy and eventually shut it down.

I am interested though to see if it could be done with a power head submersed in a tank. If you do attempt it keep us updated. Good luck


----------



## Haagenize

Has anyone ever stated the fact that clear pvc can cause algae growth within the reactor?


----------



## Gatekeeper

How? Maybe if you have lights on under the stand 24 hours a day. But I never heard of this... You could say the same for anything clear then.

Mine are usually just nasty dirty.


----------



## Bugman

Like gmc mine are under the stand. Not really something I want out on display, so without light there is little likelyhood of algae. I have two that have been running for several months now and they are as clear and the day I first built them. They make a pretty good bubble counter.


----------



## mcd19

Haagenize said:


> Has anyone ever stated the fact that clear pvc can cause algae growth within the reactor?



Being in the cabinet under the tank I don't know how you would have a problem with algae growth. You would have to have your reactor in direct sunlight all the time to have any real problem and even then I doubt it. My reactor is more than six months old and the PVC is as clear as the day I built it. In my opinion the clear PVC is great and lets you see everything that is going on inside the reactor, also acting as a bubble counter.


----------



## lemuj

i'm not sure if it was mentioned. But can you tell me how much did this cost you all in all?


----------



## leoslizards

I would like to know also. I'm upgrading my filtration soon so I would like to give one of these a try.


----------



## epicfish

Should cost more than $15-20...unless you had to order the clear PVC elsewhere.


----------



## leoslizards

Where do they sell the clear pvc at? I have yet to see any.


----------



## mcd19

leoslizards said:


> Where do they sell the clear pvc at? I have yet to see any.


The whole project cost me about $25 dollars.

You can find the clear PVC here: 
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/2480/Clear-PVC-Pipe/


----------



## leoslizards

The price is not that bad. Thanks for the link 
Did you use 2" pvc?


----------



## mcd19

leoslizards said:


> The price is not that bad. Thanks for the link
> Did you use 2" pvc?



Yes I did use 2" PVC. Check out my first post in this thread where I lay out all the things you will need.


----------



## thai

1- 2" reducing T with a 1/2" threaded side port

I couldn't find that piece at the home depot by my place. I went to another hardware store called Marshalls in San Diego, they also didn't have it. Does anyone know where else I can find this?


----------



## thai

I got some PVC glue in the reactor. Would that be ok after it has been cured for a couple days? Do I have to clean it out or make a new reactor because of the glue that is in the inside? Will it harm my tank?


----------



## brohawk

No.


----------



## Bugman

thai said:


> 1- 2" reducing T with a 1/2" threaded side port
> 
> I couldn't find that piece at the home depot by my place. I went to another hardware store called Marshalls in San Diego, they also didn't have it. Does anyone know where else I can find this?


I ordered the parts on the web at the site mcd19 gives in the very first post. Neither the Home Depot or Ace Hardware near me had the reducing T but they did have one with a 3/4 inch side port and then they had a reducer that would fit in that to take it down to 1/2 inch. As long as I was ordering the clear PVC I went ahead and got all the parts needed. Didn't really affect the shipping to add them in since the 1 foot piece of clear PCV was the biggest weight item.


----------



## mcd19

thai said:


> I got some PVC glue in the reactor. Would that be ok after it has been cured for a couple days? Do I have to clean it out or make a new reactor because of the glue that is in the inside? Will it harm my tank?



Its almost impossible not to get some glue and primer inside the reactor when constructing it. As long as everything is good and dry before using the reactor, you will have no problems.


----------



## thai

I made the reactors but it is not working for me. Water is flowing up the CO2 line and bubbling around where the 3/16" tubes. I am doing something wrong?


----------



## tazcrash69

I'd start with:
Do you have a check valve on the co2 line close to the reactor? 
If you do, and water is going up the line. the check valve is malfunctioning.

Also how much working pressure are you running at? You may have to turn it up.


----------



## thai

tazcrash69 said:


> I'd start with:
> Do you have a check valve on the co2 line close to the reactor?
> If you do, and water is going up the line. the check valve is malfunctioning.
> 
> Also how much working pressure are you running at? You may have to turn it up.


Yes I have a check valve on the co2 line but it is not close to the reactor. It is closer to the Co2 regulator. My line is kind of long. I can see some water going up the Co2 tube that is going into the reactor. I have a eheim 2217 and turn it up all the way. Is there a way I am suppose to start the reactor? Is there a certain procedure? Thanks!


----------



## tazcrash69

I meant the working pressure of your regulator (ususally adjusted with a center knob or screw). This way there is enough force to push the water, and the CO2 out of the line. 

Are you seeing the water in the line 24\7? or just when the solenoid (if you have one) is off? 

I would put a check valve close to the reactor. Here's why:
stationary CO2 in the line will still dissolve into the water. as a result the water will take up the space the CO2 took up, so you end up seeing it in the line.


----------



## thai

The High pressure is about 50lbs. I am not sure what the low pressure is set at right now because it recently broke. What should I set the pressure at in order for it not to go back up the tubes?

I was just doing test runs with the reactor and notice the water going up the Co2 line.

I think I will have to rebuild another reactor because I am getting water leaking and bubbling up where the Co2 lines go in. I must of drilled the wholes too big. 

I will get another check valve and put it closer to the Co2 reactor also.


----------



## mcd19

thai said:


> I think I will have to rebuild another reactor because I am getting water leaking and bubbling up where the Co2 lines go in. I must of drilled the wholes too big.



Taz is right, you probably have to open up the needle valve a little and push out all the water in the line in order to get the CO2 flowing correctly. 

Although the first order of business for you is to fix the reactor from leaking because if the reactor is not a fully closed and sealed unit, it does not matter how much CO2 is flowing, the gas will never make it into the reactor.


----------



## thai

Would silicone work to seal up the leak? I saw this other stuff at the hardware store that suppose to seal better than silicone. I rather not build a new one.


----------



## brohawk

Silicone will not work on pvc. It peals right off.


----------



## foxboro pats fan

*some questions*

I am in the process of building this reactor, looks great. my question is: are all pieces glued together? I wanted to add an air diffuser at the bottom of the rigid air line where the co2 comes out and if I needed to replace that in the future that would present a problem if everything is glued together. also the rigid air line is a bit loose - did you silicone those in place?

thanks, Dave


----------



## Guest

Yes glue them together. As for the air line it shouldnt be lose if the hole you made was smaller then the tube size. It should fit tight so it seals itself.


----------



## mcd19

foxboro pats fan said:


> my question is: are all pieces glued together? I wanted to add an air diffuser at the bottom of the rigid air line where the co2 comes out and if I needed to replace that in the future that would present a problem if everything is glued together. also the rigid air line is a bit loose - did you silicone those in place?


If built correctly and operating correctly there is no need for a diffuser. You will have close to 100% absorption of CO2. The diffuser can cause problems down the road like clogging up and preventing CO2 from entering the reactor. Seeing as all the parts need to be sealed, if there is a problem, you won't be able to get to the problem.

If the airline is loose just add a little PVC glue on both sides of the opening which will seal it in place.


----------



## klumsyninja

I went to a plumbing supply store here in Toronto and the guy wanted just over $50 for all the parts listed (not including the 3/16 tubing) and some 2 part epoxy.. does that seem like the right price? I kinda expected it to be like 20-25 ish... He's got the gray PVC bits though not White. (clear pvc and gray bits)

Not sure if I should go through with it.. seemed high.


----------



## lemuj

klumsyninja said:


> I went to a plumbing supply store here in Toronto and the guy wanted just over $50 for all the parts listed (not including the 3/16 tubing) and some 2 part epoxy.. does that seem like the right price? I kinda expected it to be like 20-25 ish... He's got the gray PVC bits though not White. (clear pvc and gray bits)
> 
> Not sure if I should go through with it.. seemed high.


I went and grab the rest of my stuff from Lowes and cost me $12, that includes 2x 1/2" barbs, 2x reducer and the cement and a teflon. I have a few other parts extra if u need some, we can work out a trade. Pm me if u want and we can work out a deal...


----------



## lilsuper2335

if ya wanna go a lil on the cheaper side with stuff that everyone already has here ya go...scetchy drawing but this is my set up and it works great the water coming down stirs up the bubbles till the get soo minute the water carries them out the tube and into the tank making it much more efficient...hope it helps


----------



## smoq

clwatkins10 said:


> If you could attack some kind on diffuser on the end of the longer tube, you could probably get better diffusion


Maybe a limestone or a micro bubbler? Or it is not necessary?


----------



## mcd19

marcinsmok said:


> Maybe a limestone or a micro bubbler? Or it is not necessary?


Not necessary. You will get very good absorption without a diffuser and diffusers tend to get clogged and will be difficult to clean when the reactor is glued together.


----------



## amp

I built a reactor for my 10g over the weekend out of a Red Sea Turbo kit and an old gravel siphon. Its been working pretty well, but I dont think the power head that comes with the Tubro Kit has enough kick, it seems to build up a large CO2 bubble in the top after a few days, but turning it off for a few minutes seems to fix the problem. When I go pressurized Ill most likely switch to a glass diffuser. You can see a pic of it in my 10g's profile page.


----------



## smoq

mcd19 said:


> Not necessary. You will get very good absorption without a diffuser and diffusers tend to get clogged and will be difficult to clean when the reactor is glued together.


Oh yes, you're right, I forgot about clogging. Do you think an eheim 2213 will be enough to handle this reactor?


----------



## fishsmash

sorry for the inexperience, but where do the quick-disconnect valves for the eheim fit into the line? does the filter tubing fit snugly enough on the hose barbs or do you need to clamp it on?


----------



## cjp999

Does anyone know if acrylic tubing can be used instead of the clear PVC? The local plastics company does not carry clear PVC, but they do carry acrylic and it is only $4 a foot. They say it can be glued to PVC.


----------



## cjp999

cjp999 said:


> Does anyone know if acrylic tubing can be used instead of the clear PVC? The local plastics company does not carry clear PVC, but they do carry acrylic and it is only $4 a foot. They say it can be glued to PVC.


Did a bit of research. Looks like PVC glue won't work, but there are other (more expensive) glues. Another problem is that 2" acrylic is not the same OD as 2" PVC.


----------



## cjp999

Has anyone built one of these with 5/8" hosing? I can't find an NPT x 5/8" Barbed Elbow. Looks like I'll need to get a 1/2" barbed elbow and then use a 1/2" x 5/8" barbed adapter.

BTW, I assume it is not necessary to use elbows, and instead you can use straight NPT x Barb adapters. I think for my setup straight will will better for the input, but probably an elbow will work better for the output.


----------



## imeridian

US Plastics has basically anything you'd need. They have reasonable shipping for small purchases and with the higher cost of locally obtained fittings you'll probably be even. 

Avoid the use of elbows whenever possible, they're flow rate destroyers.


----------



## cjp999

imeridian said:


> US Plastics has basically anything you'd need. They have reasonable shipping for small purchases and with the higher cost of locally obtained fittings you'll probably be even.


Thanks. They have the 5/8" barb parts I need and cheaper 2" clear PVC than aquaticeco.com. They are missing some of the other needed PVC parts, but I already know I can get them at ACE. What's missing still is the 3/16" rigid PVC tubing. They don't carry it, and I'd hate to have buy it mail order from another site since is only cost about $1.


----------



## imeridian

I haven't read the entire thread, but I believe the rigid tubing cited is acrylic and USP does sell that.


----------



## cjp999

imeridian said:


> I haven't read the entire thread, but I believe the rigid tubing cited is acrylic and USP does sell that.


There are a few links in this thread to suppliers of the 3/16" tubing, and the one I followed carried clear PVC. This would be my choice since PVC cement is used to glue it (as I mentioned earlier, using PVC cement with acrylic isn't such a good idea). USP carries PVC tubing only down to 1/4".


----------



## imeridian

Oh, I never realized that the stuff sold at the fish stores was PVC! :icon_redf


----------



## cjp999

imeridian said:


> US Plastics has basically anything you'd need. They have reasonable shipping for small purchases and with the higher cost of locally obtained fittings you'll probably be even.


They only sell clear PVC in 10' sections, so it looks like I'll need to place orders with 3 different companies to get everything I need.


----------



## Craigthor

Also you can use Rexs design and eliminate alot of parts. I've built many rex style and they work flawlessly.

Craig


----------



## cjp999

Craigthor said:


> Also you can use Rexs design and eliminate alot of parts. I've built many rex style and they work flawlessly.
> 
> Craig


I like the clear plastic since it allows you to use the reactor as a bubble counter, and you can also monitor how it's doing. Problem is that I can't find a 1' piece for less than $25 after you including shipping and (in the case of aquaticeco.com) $5 surcharge for orders less than $30. I can get a 10' clear pvc from USP for about $80 shipped. Wish I could find a few people in the area to go in on this with me (San Jose, CA if you're interested).


----------



## Craigthor

you can still use clear pvc with the rex style. also pm helgymatt here on the boards he had some forsale not long ago. Might have a few chuncks left.

Craig


----------



## cjp999

Craigthor said:


> you can still use clear pvc with the rex style. also pm helgymatt here on the boards he had some forsale not long ago. Might have a few chuncks left.
> 
> Craig


Not for sale any longer, but this did lead me to the following where I can get 5' for about $46 shipped:

http://www.savko.com/portal/clearpvc.asp

This would be enough for future reactors (or rebuilds), or I could probably swap some. Seems like a better option than paying $25 for 1' (too much per foot) or $80 for 10' (too much PVC).


----------



## Craigthor

You could make several. I know matt was selling his extra clear tubing for $12 shipped per foot.

Craig


----------



## jgreg

MCD19 - What model Eheim filter is that you are using? Also what kind of clamps are you using on the eheim tubing?

I am curious because I have a Eheim 2229 wet/dry which the out pressure changes due to the design of the filter. Will a reactor like this work OK on one of these?

Thanks.


----------



## mcd19

jgreg said:


> MCD19 - What model Eheim filter is that you are using? Also what kind of clamps are you using on the eheim tubing?
> 
> I am curious because I have a Eheim 2229 wet/dry which the out pressure changes due to the design of the filter. Will a reactor like this work OK on one of these?
> 
> Thanks.



I have an Eheim 2224 and used regular adjustable stainless steal metal hose clamps you can buy at any hardware or home store.


Because of the filter you are using you may be fighting a losing battle seeing as wet/dry filters are designed to out-gas co2 for oxygen, so the co2 you put into the tank will inevitably be out-gassed by the filter. As far as the flow rate goes, I don't think it will be a problem running the reactor with the alternating currents coming out of the discharge.


----------



## disvegas

mcd19, I really like the design; it looks simple and not so hard to make one. I do have a question and hope you or anyone could help. I know you've mentioned your reactor is mainly designed for canister filter, but do you think it would also work for wet/dry filter?


----------



## mcd19

disvegas said:


> mcd19, I really like the design; it looks simple and not so hard to make one. I do have a question and hope you or anyone could help. I know you've mentioned your reactor is mainly designed for canister filter, but do you think it would also work for wet/dry filter?


Jgreg asked the same question in the post above yours. In theory the reactor will work just fine. The problem is, a wet/dry filter is designed to out gas CO2 and provide more oxygen to your tank. For some tanks that is great but for anyone who wants their planted tanks to flourish your filter and the reactor will be fighting each other. So to answer your question, the reactor should operate with no problems, I just don't know how much absorption of CO2 will occur.


----------



## Firestarter

I am thinking about doing something on a smaller scale for a 10g tank. Maybe 1 1/2" pipe or 1 1/4" with a submersible pump. Anyone done anything like this?


----------



## milesm

Firestarter said:


> I am thinking about doing something on a smaller scale for a 10g tank. Maybe 1 1/2" pipe or 1 1/4" with a submersible pump. Anyone done anything like this?


i think you should stay with 12" of 2" pipe. take a look at the dual venturi diy external co2 reactor sticky on tom barr's site (in the articles forum). he shows how to use a submersible pump (rio) with the reactor.


----------



## jjlin78

i haven't been able to find the plastic threaded hose barbs, but was able to find a brass one. will this be ok to use?


----------



## DiabloCanine

Didn't read all the posts, but ummm no check valve?.....DC


----------



## stripe157

What do you do when it's time to clean this thing?
I've got $30 worth of clear PVC in my cart at Aquatic eco-systems, but the more I think about it, I'd rather use a household filter canister. It's easily disassembled for easy cleaning.
see this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQRgJo1cwIA&feature=PlayList&p=120C61FEA74ED86A&index=2

and that $30 us just for the hard 3/16 and 2".

home filters are $15 on eBay.


----------



## HEINEKEN357

stripe157 said:


> What do you do when it's time to clean this thing?
> I've got $30 worth of clear PVC in my cart at Aquatic eco-systems, but the more I think about it, I'd rather use a household filter canister. It's easily disassembled for easy cleaning.
> see this:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQRgJo1cwIA&feature=PlayList&p=120C61FEA74ED86A&index=2
> 
> and that $30 us just for the hard 3/16 and 2".
> 
> home filters are $15 on eBay.


I tryed building that with my Xp3 no go way to much flow and co2 was flying out the spray bar even at 1-2bps there was a lot of bubbles come out. Also any1 having the problem with the 2in pvc with a xp3 my reactor is 20in total and I am getting a lot of bubbles out of the spray bar bps are around 2-2.5. I just added my current Usa uv sterilizer 2in pvc and I am still getting bubbles  what is the deal?


----------



## stripe157

I think the home filter co2 reactor has the water flowing first into the outside portion, and then up the pvc in the center to exit. Those things are probably 5" around. I'm pretty sure it flows water even slower than a 2" tube. Look at that guys bubble counter. That looked like about four bps, but only go to about half way down the canister.
I don't mean to steal the thread, back on point:
Does it ever require cleaning? if it does, are there other ways to assemble it w/o having to glue it?


----------



## Hoppy

stripe157 said:


> Does it ever require cleaning? if it does, are there other ways to assemble it w/o having to glue it?


I never did clean mine when I used it, and I couldn't disassemble it anyway. If you want to be able to do so, just use a coupling on one end of the 2" pipe that has internal 2" pipe threads at one end. Then screw in a reducer to attach the water hose barb. That requires you to avoid leaks at the screw together connection, but that isn't too hard to do, with good pipe dope. (Teflon tape is a bad idea with PVC screw connections.)


----------



## jjlin78

so i seem to be having a difficult time finding the 5/8" hose barbs but am able to find the 1/2" ones. i have an eheim filter with 16/22mm tubing which is roughly 5/8". so if i use the 1/2" ones, will their be a negative back pressure on the filter which will cause harm to it? or is their another problem with using a smaller size fitting? thanks.


----------



## stripe157

Hoppy said:


> I never did clean mine when I used it, and I couldn't disassemble it anyway. If you want to be able to do so, just use a coupling on one end of the 2" pipe that has internal 2" pipe threads at one end. Then screw in a reducer to attach the water hose barb. That requires you to avoid leaks at the screw together connection, but that isn't too hard to do, with good pipe dope. (Teflon tape is a bad idea with PVC screw connections.)


Done! I ordered the parts today. Everything I couldn't get at Lowe's, I ordered from FlexPVC. One foot of clear 2" was $14, after everything is said and done, I'm FAR from $15-$20 though. Closer to $50 actually. More if you count the cement etc...

Oh well, still beats $100 for a store bought bio-ball version.

Fittings were a pain. I have a hydor with 5/8" fittings, a flowmeter with 3/4", I chose to use 1/2" for the reactor to maintain some speed-of-entry, and my filter is the Eheim classic with again two different size hose fittings.


----------



## latchdan

I pretty much made the same reactor. I just finished it today, only difference is i used 5/8 hose barbs and i had to use elbows cuz my barbs were straight. I also didnt get any clear pvc. I connected to my rena xp1 and so far i got got good co2 lvls and didnt see much comming out of the spray bar.


----------



## thomas111

does anyone know the flow rate of the filters being used? I would like to try this using a mag pump from my sump. I'm using a mag 9 right now but have considered slowing it down.


----------



## Kathyy

My Rio 1700 is rated at ~350 [email protected]' of head and no bubbles come out of the spraybar with a 12" reactor with 2" elbows because I got seriously carried away making mine. Guessing that adds quite a bit of effective length to it. Planning on buying a more powerful pump next time, we will see how that goes. IF it ever goes out, liking the Rio a lot.


----------



## thomas111

I need to ask a dumb question. 
What direction is the water flowing? Top to bottom or bottom to top?


----------



## ryndisher

Top to Bottom i think.


----------



## thomas111

Does anyone know for sure? Reason I ask is I just built one similar to the one here except I used a mag 3.5 on the bottom side of the reactor. This is sucking the water from the top down to the bottom and back to the tank. When I first fired it up it was 1/3 filled with air at the top. I had to use the degassing valve with the unit off to SUCK out the air. I then closed the valve. It now seams to work just fine but I thought opening the degassing valve would expel the gas, not suck it in like mine is doing. I did build mine taller (about 18") with a union in the middle.


----------



## Hoppy

The flow has to go from top to bottom. Otherwise the CO2 just escapes out the hose at the top and goes to the tank to dissipate as bubbles.


----------



## mcd19

The water comes from the filter output hose, flows into the top of the reactor, and then leaves the bottom returning to the tank. It is done from top to bottom to give the CO2 gas that is rising to the top of the reactor time to dissolve in the water column. If done correctly you should see no CO2 bubbles in the tank.


----------



## Broaska

I have decided to make one of these reactors and have found all my fittings between the lowes/home depot here. In your first image it appears that you have wrapped the 3/16 airline with some sort of teflon tape or something. What exactly is it you used? This is my first reactor build and want to make sure I get it to seal off. Thanks


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## mcd19

Broaska said:


> I have decided to make one of these reactors and have found all my fittings between the lowes/home depot here. In your first image it appears that you have wrapped the 3/16 airline with some sort of teflon tape or something. What exactly is it you used? This is my first reactor build and want to make sure I get it to seal off. Thanks


Thats actually the price tag your looking at on the 3/16" rigid airline tubing which was removed prior to assembly. Sorry about that.:icon_sad: Should have removed it prior to taking any pictures so not to confuse people. I did however apply teflon tape to all fittings before screwing them into place.


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## Sharkfood

I run my CO2 into a homemade venturi at the input to the reactor. I don't have any problems with CO2 building up in the reactor at all. I have a threaded cap on mine also, as Hoppy suggested. In reality though, you shouldn't ever have to clean it unless you put media in it. Mine has a couple snails living in it somehow.











BTW plastic pipe wall clamps are an excellent way to mount these. You just push the pipe in and the lock pops shut, holding the reactor very tightly.


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## Broaska

mcd19 said:


> Thats actually the price tag your looking at on the 3/16" rigid airline tubing which was removed prior to assembly. Sorry about that.:icon_sad: Should have removed it prior to taking any pictures so not to confuse people. I did however apply teflon tape to all fittings before screwing them into place.


Thanks for the clarification on this. I kind of thought that may be the case. I just need my clear PVC and I am ready to put this together. One question I have for the group here. I am planning on running this inline with a Eheim 2215 on a 29G. Do you think this will cause enough loss of flow to cause any problems? Also, is anyone using this with DIY Co2 just out of curiosity. Thanks for all your help!


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## newbieplanter

Nice, best one I've seen.


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