# Building a 72L Aquarium stand - Completed - New pics (9/22)



## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

Looks and sounds like you have a plan. What kind of plywood are you going to use (Birch, Oak)?


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

spunjin said:


> Looks and sounds like you have a plan. What kind of plywood are you going to use (Birch, Oak)?


I have not really thought about that yet, since I am not sure what finishing I want to have. What would you suggest?


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## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

Definately Birch. It has a nicer grain compared to Oak.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

spunjin said:


> Definately Birch. It has a nicer grain compared to Oak.


Ok, thanks for the suggestion spunjin. If I go plywood I am considering 3/4" thickness. How do the choices fare considering shrinkage/expansion or warping with weather changes?


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## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

Couldn't tell you all that but you will definitely need 3/4" ply. You are going to use the 4X4s just for support in the corners and along the back, correct? 
I am planning a birch plywood stand as well so if you find out about the shrinkage/expansion and warping please be sure to post your findings. I am interested in following your thread.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Yes, 4X4s only for the frame. If I enclose it in plywood, I will probably use to cover it with laminate (I have 1 8' X 4' roll left over from my earlier project), so the graining is of a lesser significance to me than the shrinkage considerations.

Will keep posted on what I find out. How far are you though on your project?


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## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

I am through the thinking about it stage and now I am in the getting permission from the wife stage. I have been pre-approved...for now.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

spunjin said:


> I am through the thinking about it stage and now I am in the getting permission from the wife stage. I have been pre-approved...for now.


cool...that is a very important stage:thumbsup:. Infact that was my first stage even before I started thinking details and posting


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

*Gather ideas and inspirations. Background study*

Few of the specific sources I am using for inspiration, design ideas
1. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/83541-post-pics-your-diy-stands.html to look at different styles, frames and finishes various DIYers used

2. http://www.fishandtips.com/index.php for validating dimensions and getting idea of hardware needed. Pretty useful.

3. http://www.garf.org/stand.html for more frame design considerations

The fishandtips design is more conservative than garf and suggests more structural and joint strength.

Of course there are many many more but these are a few that can provide or lead to all around aspects. Besides a few more that is my initial set of inspirations
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/83541-post-pics-your-diy-stands-5.html#post848957

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/85748-aquarium-stand-raw-industrial-style.html


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

This is going to be a kick- butt stand! Subscribing


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## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

Here is what I wanted to do. But my question is this. Does the grain have to run vertical? If it does, ply wood is sold in 4'x8' boards. My tank is also 72" long so vertical grain would have to be two boards next to each other. What is the rule on this?


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I suggest birch plywood too. Oak plywood has a very porous grain, which could be a problem when you laminate, while birch is always very smooth and usually very flat. Any plywood is pretty immune to shrinkage/swelling, because of the crossed grain plies. Birch is just about the standard material for professional cabinets too. If you are just skinning over the structural frame with plywood, you don't need 3/4 inch thickness. I think 1/4 inch is too thin, so a good compromise might be 1/2 inch, saving some on weight and cost.

Plywood can run in any direction, as far as strength is concerned. I think vertical grain looks best, but if you laminate it, it doesn't matter.

If I were to do this I definitely would not use a wood hood like that. I had one on a 120 gallon, 60 inch long tank, and it was a huge problem to remove and reinstall when doing major maintenance. Plus, I never had good lighting when pruning, cleaning, etc. And, a rimless tank looks really great completely open on top, with a suspended light above.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

CL said:


> This is going to be a kick- butt stand! Subscribing


Thank you CL.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

spunjin said:


> Here is what I wanted to do. But my question is this. Does the grain have to run vertical? If it does, ply wood is sold in 4'x8' boards. My tank is also 72" long so vertical grain would have to be two boards next to each other. What is the rule on this?
> View attachment 22314


All I can think of run along the 8' length. The picture you have probably has 2 4' wide pieces cut and glued side by side (good finish). I agree with Hoppy, that if I go rimless, then a canopy kills the look and also is a pain to clean, prune etc. I like open top with hang-over light fixtures (reminds me of my missed step # 5, light fixture)


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Hoppy said:


> I suggest birch plywood too. Oak plywood has a very porous grain, which could be a problem when you laminate, while birch is always very smooth and usually very flat. Any plywood is pretty immune to shrinkage/swelling, because of the crossed grain plies. Birch is just about the standard material for professional cabinets too. If you are just skinning over the structural frame with plywood, you don't need 3/4 inch thickness. I think 1/4 inch is too thin, so a good compromise might be 1/2 inch, saving some on weight and cost.


Agreed, I don't need 3/4". How about on the top. I know that tank water pressure is distributed around the edges. However doesn't the water column weight distribute on the bottom glass (specially for a rimless tank). If so would a 3/4" plywood be advisable for the top atleast?


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I think all rimless tanks, assuming they don't have even a bottom rim, have the bottom glass resting flat on whatever stand you use. Two points of view: one would be that you need a very flat top, supported with closely spaced structural members, and with a cushion on it to even out the load. Another is that if you were to put a bottom rim on the tank, it would only support the outer edge of the tank, so why not just support that outer edge without the rim? I think I go with the latter point, so I would want a level, even top under that outer edge only, but cut out in the middle. What would Amano do?


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Makes perfect sense Hoppy. I however might still consider a flat top with 1/2" plywood to place a foam mat, just to provide a even non-slip surface.

I looked at the piece of laminate I have and It is dark gray (darker than the ADA stands). The stand will be in my living room which opens up in the dining area. Both spaces have heavy dark chocolate colored wood furniture. The dining set has frosted glass center and the coffee table has a glass top. Keeping in sync, I am inclined towards hydrophytes industrial style design but add frosted glass doors and side panels.

This is how the 2 rooms look now. What do you guys think?

This is the 2 spaces together. Tank will be placed on the left wall. Hope you are not appalled by the color scheme. We wanted to keep it nice and bright specially for mellow winter 









This is a view of the wall where it will be placed (on the right). Just across the stairs you can see the main door outside which (little to the right) is the garden hose outlet to be used for WC









And this is a closeup of the dining table with frosted glass center. This finish for the stand as well?


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## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

The glass doors would be great. Your house is nice and bright so the planted tank will pop especially with the black cabinet and frosted glass doors.


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

You have a very beautiful and modern looking house. A stand that matches the table would be very cool. For the stand that I have my rimless 48 gallon tank on I put a flat piece of 1/2 inch ply screwed to the frame, followed by a flat piece of 3/4 inch ply just laid on top, followed by a 3/4 inch of blue board foam insulation, followed by two layers of cardboard followed by a garden mat.
It's not only that I was nervous about my stand, but I originally designed it for a rimmed 40 breeder with the edges of the stand built up to cover the bottom plastic rim. When I decided to go rimless I no longer wanted the tank to sit in the stand, but rather on it.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

spunjin said:


> The glass doors would be great. Your house is nice and bright so the planted tank will pop especially with the black cabinet and frosted glass doors.


Thank you spunjin.



CL said:


> You have a very beautiful and modern looking house. A stand that matches the table would be very cool. For the stand that I have my rimless 48 gallon tank on I put a flat piece of 1/2 inch ply screwed to the frame, followed by a flat piece of 3/4 inch ply just laid on top, followed by a 3/4 inch of blue board foam insulation, followed by two layers of cardboard followed by a garden mat.
> It's not only that I was nervous about my stand, but I originally designed it for a rimmed 40 breeder with the edges of the stand built up to cover the bottom plastic rim. When I decided to go rimless I no longer wanted the tank to sit in the stand, but rather on it.


Thank you CL. I have not been very regular for the last 6 months or so, so I am not quite up-to-date on the changes that have happened to known tanks. I quickly browsed your thread for 48 to get a look at the setup but looks like it has been carefully concealed.

Anyways, the explanation the Hoppy provided earlier makes perfect sense. However for a larger tank, I think it is better to have a flat surface and some non-slip should one of its corners slip out of the edges.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

The more I think, the more I am liking the idea of industrial finish with dark stain and frost glass doors. Guess I have my idea.

Last evening I went to Menards to check out some lumber and stains. Menards has more variety of lumber than HD or Lowes. I found some beautiful dug fir and a helpful guy who happens to have a 300G and made his own stand. He suggested dug fir and offered me to show his stand so that I get some idea.

Menards however did not have a good selection of stains though. Probably 30% of the catalog was only available and none of the darker stains.

Anyways, time to move into design stage of the frame!


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

*Design*

Over the weekend I did a little bit of design on Sketchup to get an idea of the dimensions and L&F. This is how it came out.

Top and bottom frame dimensions.










Overall frame. Decided to go 30" high


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Over the weekend I checked the local stores for lumber and joint connectors. I really liked the dug fir available in Menards but a bit pricy (around $20 for a 10' 4X4). I'll need 5 of those to make

4 of 6' 
8 of 22" for the vertical posts
8 of 10" for the horizontal spacers.

I also found these corner braces that I really liked. Did not see these in Lowes or HD. These are all anodized alu material, pretty sturdy, so I plan to use T-connectors for the interior joints.


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## xmas_one (Feb 5, 2010)

4x4's are total overbuild.. I'd suggest you go with a similar layout constructed of 2x4's instead.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

I know. 2X4 is structurally sufficient for a tank of this size. I'm however planning on 4X4 for the uniform look like hydrophyte's industrial style stand. he has 2X4 cross beams though, which I can do as well, but I'll need to buy more pieces of lumber to have different cuts from different thicknesses.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

This gives an idea of how it will look with the stain and frosted glass panels and doors









with the connectors attached. 









and with the tank hoisted on top









how does it look? too much metal?


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## xmas_one (Feb 5, 2010)

malaybiswas said:


> I know. 2X4 is structurally sufficient for a tank of this size. I'm however planning on 4X4 for the uniform look like hydrophyte's industrial style stand. he has 2X4 cross beams though, which I can do as well, but I'll need to buy more pieces of lumber to have different cuts from different thicknesses.


Ah, I got ya... Have you considered using dowels to hold your 4x4's together? 4 3/4" pins in a square pattern would look nice..


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

I have, but I am not sure if I can line dowel pilot holes correctly.

For now material list stands to

1. 4X4 dug fir for frame
2. 1/2 birchwood ply for top
3. galvanized alu angle, tee and corner brackets
4. #8 anodized nails (internal joints)
5. Wood screws for exterior joints - visual appeal
6. glass
7. stain & sealant


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## mattycakesclark (Jun 11, 2010)

Make a jig. I have always thought of dowels / biscuits / etc as a way to secure wood until the glue drys. I am sure it provides some support, but not nearly as much as wood glue.

Make a jig out of a piece of bent metal. Drill where you want your pilots for your dowels, and use that to guide your drilling. Or buy a biscuit cutter (not the kind you bake with ). I use it a lot, and it helps you jig it up nice and straight.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

mattycakesclark said:


> Make a jig. I have always thought of dowels / biscuits / etc as a way to secure wood until the glue drys. I am sure it provides some support, but not nearly as much as wood glue.
> 
> Make a jig out of a piece of bent metal. Drill where you want your pilots for your dowels, and use that to guide your drilling. Or buy a biscuit cutter (not the kind you bake with ). I use it a lot, and it helps you jig it up nice and straight.


I know what biscuits you are talking about  The bent metal jig is a good idea!


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you use 4 x 4 parts the corner braces will be for appearance only, since the legs won't extend far enough to actually tie the parts together. Something like 8 inch long legs would be needed, maybe 6 inches.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

You are right Hoppy and that clicked in my head while I was shopping for the braces today. So I got 6" braces instead.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

How sound would it be to connect the frame using pocket hole screws with something like this?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_168410-39450-K3MS_0_?productId=1040653&Ntt=kreg&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=kreg$identifier=$Va=22

Is this kind of joint sound enough for the kind of weight the frame needs to carry (approx 1500 lbs)? 

Should I use the pocket hole self tapping screws like these (below) or consider using construction grade deck wood screws instead...say 2" longs?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_205308-39450-SPS-C1+-+100_0_?productId=3020291&Ntt=kreg&Ntk=i_products&pl=1&currentURL=/pl__0__s?Ntt=kreg$identifier=$Va=22


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Ok, some change in plans. My wife is not too excited about the exposed metal industrial look. Knowing the risks of keeping a big tank in living room she has generously agreed and encouraged my idea so I have to agree to her choices as well.

So, as of now, the exposed braces idea is out as is the pocket hole idea since the screws (2.5" max) that come with pocket holes are not for heavy load.

After consulting my new found friend at the local Menards who happen to have a 300G tank on a DIY stand, I got a chance to visit his house and get a sneak peak at his setup. It is recent (about 6 months old) but looks sturdy and nicely built.

He's in the lumber department and seemed to have a wealth of information so I as a novice am heavily influenced by his suggestions. Taking his recommendation I am going with 6" lag screws used for decks to hold the frame.

4 screws will hold the 6' horizontal beams to the 22" vertical support beam. They will go on 4 corners of the face of 4X4. Another 2 will (middle of the edges will hold the 6' to the 10" cross beams. 

Shortly, I'll post the picture of the material I have got so far. Stay tuned.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Pictures of my construction material.

1. All the lumber (cut to size and sanded) and some hardware and tools in my work area.









2. Close up of the wood. I love the grains!









3. I tried 2 stains. The one on the right is cordovan brown stain + waterproof sealer. The center one is bombay mahogony stain over clear sealant. The left one is bombay mahogony over bare wood. All were applied 24 hrs back on unsanded wood. I am inclined towards the center piece, but chirp in what you think of the 3.










4. Finally, my 6" lag screws


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

The middle stain is definitely the best. Quality 4x4s you got there. Time to put this thing together!


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

I started with putting the frame together and initially it looked like I would have it done in 1/2 a day. The first 2 counter sinks and screws were done in no time. Like butter .

But then my wish to go cheaper with a 14V black and decker paid its price. Driving the screws is just not happening even with the max torque this tool can deliver. I am replacing this with a Bosch 18V this evening before I start again.

What I am not sure of is how the stain will work on the wood filler. I used winmax stain which has some fillers matching specific stains they make. I have to check if they have something for the mahogony or closer.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you use yellow wood glue in addition to the screws the stand will be much stronger and infinitely more likely to never have the joints loosen. About driving those screws - I have always found that I have to drill pilot holes for screws that long, even with higher voltage drills. It is very possible to shear off the screws when you try driving one that long without a pilot hole, in fact it is almost the normal outcome.


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

You can also rub the screws on bar soap which helps significantly.


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## spunjin (Apr 7, 2009)

CL said:


> You can also rub the screws on bar soap which helps significantly.


A little trick passed down from my grand father.
I agree about the middle stain. It looks really good. with the grain in the wood.


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## nokturnalkid (Apr 3, 2007)

Hoppy said:


> If you use yellow wood glue in addition to the screws the stand will be much stronger and infinitely more likely to never have the joints loosen. About driving those screws - I have always found that I have to drill pilot holes for screws that long, even with higher voltage drills. It is very possible to shear off the screws when you try driving one that long without a pilot hole, in fact it is almost the normal outcome.


+1. I always pre-drill. Since you are planning on getting a new drill, look into the makita 18v hammer drill. For the price, that thing is a beast. With that drill, or pretty much any hammer drill, you don't really need to pre-drill. But, pre-drilling will make the screw go in a lot easier, especially one that long. Oh yeah, my vote goes for the middle stain.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

I am drilling pilot holes, but even with that the previous drill was having power issues in driving the screws just after doing 1 or 2. I can surely see the difference with the new one. I got one with Lithium ion cell so hopefully the charging frequency will be less.

Hoppy - Yes I am using wood glue as well to hold the pieces together in place before I drill. 

The bar soap idea is a good information. Thanks CL. But can it cause in kind of reaction with the wood that can decay the wood over time?

spunjin - Thanks for the vote for the stain. That's the way to go.

I'll have some photo updates on the frame build later tonight.


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

I don't think that the soap will decay the wood. I think I learnead the tip on this old house.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Alright. Good to know. So far it is working out quite well with the new drill though. Got half of the frame assembled so far. The bosch is working like a charm :icon_smil


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## unrealshots (Jun 8, 2010)

malaybiswas said:


> Alright. Good to know. So far it is working out quite well with the new drill though. Got half of the frame assembled so far. The bosch is working like a charm :icon_smil


this thread is worthless without pics


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

unrealshots said:


> this thread is worthless without pics


welcome to PT. Check my signature :icon_cool


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

I had a slight setback in the construction. The 4X4s are actually 3.5X3.5 so my cross beam calculation is 1" short at 10 to make up a 18" wide stand. I had to get another beam and cut it to 11" instead before I could start back again.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Time for some construction update

This is the front side of the panel. I am attaching the cross beams alternately on top and bottom so that they can stand on their own. The back panel will have similar construct. At this stage I will haul them to the living room and connect the cross beams so that I don't have to carry the stand all together. You can see the cross beam on the top is not properly aligned. I had to fix it after this.









From the front









I figured 2 lag screws per joint is sufficient. They are heft strong and collectively supposed to hold a weight of over 1500 lbs. My whole tank will probably be between 1000 to 1500 lbs so not as much per joint. Close ups of the counter sunk pilot holes before and after the screws are fixed.


















With my limited workshop, this is my best way to align the cross beams so that the surface on the top and bottom are level. You'll notice on the beam on the right, half of it is in different shade. I put water proof sealant on all the sections that will get covered in the joints before I started attaching them so that the wood surfaces inside the joint are waterproof as well. Finally, I plan to wax around the joint line so that the exposed metals are prevented from accidental contact with water.










So
1. One more such frame to make
2. Wax all joints
3. Cover all holes with wood filler & sand
4. Attach the plywood platforms inside and on top of the frame
5. waterproof coating and staining
6. Attach glass doors and side panels
7. Light bar

Way more to go


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## jwm5 (May 9, 2010)

so you put a water proof sealer on before you stain? I never heard of that. If you put the stain and a clear polyurethane coat over all the wood you should be fine, waxing all the joints/metal seems like overkill, you will unlikely ever have enough water exposure to the stand to need those extras.


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## bigboij (Jul 24, 2009)

Wow that is a brute stand, nice work


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

jwm5 said:


> so you put a water proof sealer on before you stain? I never heard of that. If you put the stain and a clear polyurethane coat over all the wood you should be fine, waxing all the joints/metal seems like overkill, you will unlikely ever have enough water exposure to the stand to need those extras.


I am no pro with wood working so you might be right, but yes, I am putting the sealer on the bare wood and the stain over it. Yes, the stain does not penetrate the grains but from my trial on the excess wood blocks the end effect is good. It just seemed logical to seal the bare wood instead of putting sealer over 3-4 coats of the stain that I plan to do to get the rich deep color I am looking for.

The waxing idea may be a overkill but actaully what I am doing is lining the joints with stainable and waterproof wood glue. The reason I wanted to keep the seams glued is so that accidental spills when dealing with 50+ gallons of water change has minimal chances of reaching the lag screws. If those rust or the wood at the joint deteriorate that would be a nightmare. May be I am just being paranoid but hey better safe than sorry!!


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

bigboij said:


> Wow that is a brute stand, nice work


Thanks! and hope it stays that way for a very long time


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

The frame is constructed. It's a tad little bit off level so I need to fix that shortly. As of now, the birch plywood covers are fixed. Next off some more sanding and staining.

I stained the bottom part of the frame before I fixed the plywood since it a damn! heavy and with the whole frame together, I can no way turn it upside down and back without breaking something in the room...or in my body :redface:


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## Dan the Man (Sep 8, 2009)

Yeah, after building my stand using double ply 3/4" panels, I can only imagine what a stand made up of 4x4's weigh, but you can't put a price tag on peace of mind.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Dan the Man said:


> Yeah, after building my stand using double ply 3/4" panels, I can only imagine what a stand made up of 4x4's weigh, but you can't put a price tag on peace of mind.


Actually the 4X4s are not that expensive. Each 14' lumber is about $15. I needed 4.

Edit: BTW, I followed your DIY stand construction. I liked that you selected a darker shade than the ADA stands.


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## Green Leaf Aquariums (Feb 26, 2007)

You could hold up a Volkswagen with that stand no problem.


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## wkndracer (Mar 14, 2009)

Green Leaf Aquariums said:


> You could hold up a Volkswagen with that stand no problem.


I think your estimate is a tad short or this stands capability. I would feel comfortable parking my Yukon XL on it for a suspension change out. Rock solid design (imo) no worries about safely supporting your tank.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Thank you guys. Yes I understand it is overbuilt :hihi:


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

*Final Chapter. Or is it?*

Since my last post a month back, fixing the glass doors took most of my time. Wanting to keep the doors inset of the frame, I did not consider the revolving area required at the hinged end while ordering the glass. As a result I had to cut of a good 1/4" X1/4" along the entire length of the vertical columns to create the space. Now at least I am happy that I went with 4X4s instead of 2X4. Would not feel comfortable reducing that much wood from the columns from 2X4s.

Anyways, got past the hurdle, connected all the doors and end panels and the light bars. All set to go. Waiting to get my tank and substrate next week to start off. 

Oh, the bummer at the end (while all done and cleaning up) was a slight knock from one of the tools to the left glass door resulting in a pretty big crack. The door's still holding but it's an eye sore and would not like to leave it that way for long. But right now money goes on other stuff, so this is how I have to start I guess! The last picture shows how big the crack is.

Feedbacks welcome.

Glass panels. I got 1/4" acid etched glass









FInished stand with lights turned on









From the side. Notice the side panel has some space in the top. That is for running the filter pipes etc. I wanted a hole drilled, but the charges were so high, I settled for a shorter glass instead.








Oh, btw the last 2 pics were with no flash and just the overhead lights on in complete dark room. That's how bright the 20 LEDs are!

See the crack? Ouch!


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## EKLiu (Jan 14, 2010)

Nice job. The frosted glass doors look really nice. Much more interesting than the monolithic ADA style stands.


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## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

Thanks EKLiu. That was the idea.

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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