# A few questions about low tech aquariums



## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

one of the points of going low tech is to avoid having to put CO2 in the tank. There will be a difference of which lights you use depending if the tank is a tall or not. Try to get about 3" of substrate in the bottom of the tank, the total amount of bags will need to be determined once you get the footprint of the tank. There can be just as much algae in a low as in a high, but once you get everything balanced out, things will stay pretty calm with the ow tech. The watt / gal rule works up until you start using T-5 lighting, then things get a bit tricky. I will never again set up a tank without live plants. It adds a whole new dimension to the tank. It will take some time to get things settled in your tank. Don't give up if something does not go right, just try a different plant lol.


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## Guns286 (Sep 17, 2009)

*Low-Tech*

I too am thinking of going the low-tech route. I've been slowly gathering my equipment and researching, for the past year. Originally, I planned a high-tech set-up, but now, I'm not so sure. Once I caught the live plant bug, I knew it was going to take awile to aquire the equipment I needed, but for the hell of I got some Java moss, Java fern, anubius, and duckweed, and put them in my existing tank (75g bowfront, with stock lights). Well, with no co2 or ferts, they are all growing like crazy! Granted, these are easy to grow plants, but it got me to thinking, "why spend the money to go high-tech, when I'm sure there are other cool plants out there that will thrive in a low-tech set up?"
Anyway, I would love to see a step-by-step guide on how to set up a low-tech tank. I realize there are a lot of varients that go into it but there has to be some "general" rules. If anyone could write something up, I think it would help alot of people.


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## Greenmagick (May 2, 2010)

I am brand new and just starting with planted tanks (havent even gotten it set up yet lol) but I am doing a 20 and a 55 using the Walstad method. I have seen some pretty big and beautiful (to me) tanks set up this way. 

I am doing a 28watt t5 over my 20g ...and was told that even though its just over 1 watt per gallon, that the wpg rule is based on older, less efficient I guess, lighting. Very basic filter (just mechanical) and thats it...no co2, no dosing, etc. I am using a soil base capped with sand or gravel for my substrate.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Do measure your tank and post up the dimensions, b/c that will definitely affect recommendations for your light fixture. Picking out the right light is IMO the most critical factor in setting up a planted tank.

I'm running 2x54 watts of T5HO over my own 90gal, and it's a challenge to keep it balanced and avoid algae w/out running CO2. I'm down to a 6 hour/day photoperiod and still have BBA issues on the side of the tank that gets some sunlight from a nearby french door.

You'll also need your tank measurements to figure out how much substrate you need. There's a link to a substrate calculator at the top of the main forum someplace...

EDIT- here you go http://www.plantedtank.net/substratecalculator.html
(It's under the "articles" link on the top right, then "calculators")


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

Thanks for the info! We'll be going to get the tank Sunday. I've e-mailed the seller for the exact dimensions but have yet to receive a response. I'm anxious to know exactly how big it is, 1 because I need to know that both tank and stand will fit in the truck, and two because I need to know how many people to bring to carry it lol.


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

Another question! Can anyone reccomend me a good filter or whether or not I should use two filters?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I'm always a fan of 2 filters on big tanks. Not only can you increase the flow/efficiency of filtration to the water column with 2 intake and 2 outputs, but you have a "backup" should one filter ever fail for any reason.

I'd run any combo of Eheim 2217s and/or Rena XP3s on an 80gal. (I'm running an XP3 and an XP4 on my 90gal and find it's perfect for my tank.)


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

I have been looking around and found a few filters that suit my budget, I was wondering if they would be suitable though. 

Heres the first one: 
Emperor Bio-Wheel Power Filter
Dimension: 16" x 7" x 10" 
GPH: 400gph

The next one:
Penguin Bio-Wheel Power Filter
Dimension: 15" x 5.5" x 7.5" 
GPH: 350gph

I would be using either of these in double, so there would be two. Would they be suitable? 

Also, for lighting, I have been looking at these:

Nova Extreme T5 High Output X2 Lighting Fixtures
Size: 48"
Bulbs Included: (1) 10 000K 54 W T5H0/ 1 Freshwater 54 W T5H0 

Dual-Lamp T5 H0 Light Fixtures
Size: 48" 
Bulbs included: (1) 6000K 54 W T5H0/ (1) 650nm 54 W T5H0

Both of these are the same price, so I'm not sure which would be best?


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## insta (Jan 27, 2010)

Neither. With T5HO bulbs, you're going to need CO2 (unless you mount the bulbs way above your tank, in which case -- get cheaper bulbs). Bio-Wheels outgas CO2 faster than you can put it into the tank, thanks to the huge surface area of the bio-wheels themselves.

If you need to run CO2, you'll want to find a filter that doesn't break the surface of the water. I'm happily SunSun pimp #10 on the forum, and got a great 250gph filter for about $85 on eBay -- including a 9W UV sterilizer.


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

Ok, thats good to know, thanks 

What about the submersible corner filters?


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## insta (Jan 27, 2010)

If you run CO2, you'll need to get out of the low-tech forum 

Biowheel filters are perfectly fine if you avoid CO2. Get a cheaper lighting kit. A dual 4' T8 should be plenty.


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

I don't want to run C02. So I can use the biowheel filters then.. Good to know.. They're about $60 each so, its better for my budget. How many watts should each bulb be for my 80? I'm assuming it is an 80 high because the tank is just as tall as the stand, I still haven't gotten an answer back with the dimensions, worst case scenario, we'll see Sunday.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I'd take a look at the Coralife T5NOs from www.BigAlsOnline.com. 2 of these would probably work really well.

Or you could DIY some T5NOs if you're electrically handy- you could get everything you need from Home Depot/Lowes.

I run 108 watts of T5HO over my own 90gal and have to regulate my photoperiod really carefully to avoid algae- they're powerful lights.


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

Hello disappointment, I went to pick up the tank today and the seller never showed. Come to find out, she had sent an email this morning saying that she wanted to confirm that we were going. 

Anyway, atleast I got the dimensions:
48" long
16" wide 
24" high

is it really an 80 gallon?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Yup, that ends up 80gal! It's 2" smaller than a standard 90gal (which would be 18" rather than 16"...)


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

I don't know whats going on with this tank, the seller wont respond to me, and I saw an ad for it on kijiji, so I'm guessing shes going to sell it to someone closer. 

I did find a back up plan for an extra $100 I can get a 75 gallon tank with the stand and two marineland 400 power filters lighting and accessories(rocks, sand etc.) So, I'm thinking about snatching that one up.


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## insta (Jan 27, 2010)

I'd suggest using mineralized topsoil instead of gravel


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

Funny you should mention that because I've been debating that. Originally I wanted to use flourite, now I'm thinking of the mineralized top soil. I was wondering though, my parents have a large natural pond, I was thinking instead of using the clay, I could somehow incorporate some of the natural stuff from the bottom of the pond into the mixture? Not sure how it would work out, but its probably 75% clay itself.


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## fish h20 (May 5, 2009)

If you use soil from the pond you will end up with all kinds of bugs you don't want. Look into getting Diana Walstad's book before you start buying all sorts of equipment. It's the best investment I have made so far. It is great even you don't go with her method.


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## GoldenTetra (Jan 17, 2009)

yeah, the bugs present a problem which is why I was thinking of baking it. Not sure if that would affect anything? The biggest problem with the mineralized top soil is the clay, I wont be able to find it here (I'm out in the country, closest city = 1 hour away, working 40 hours a week + 12 hours volunteer work on weekends = no time to go to the city to get clay lol) worst case scenario, my lfs stocks fluorite.


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## insta (Jan 27, 2010)

Use bog-standard topsoil for making the mineralized stuff. It's the wet/dry cycles that are important. You can get it at *any* hardware store. Hell my local grocery store sells it for some reason. Iron is a bit harder to find, but it shouldn't be too difficult. I used powdered red clay. You could buy some Seachem Iron, or dry ferrous gluconate and make it yourself too.


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## Tracy (Apr 2, 2009)

I started this hobby a little over a year ago. I spent a bundle on an expensive T5 light fixture, co2 equipment, and ferts for a 55. I also started a 20 gallon with nothing extra - low tech. Turns out I enjoy the 20 gallon low tech tank more. The 55 has a lot more algae problems, and A LOT more maintenance. I'm thinking of selling it and starting another smaller tank, a natural nano tank. As far as a filter, a planted tank has biological filtration in the soil, if I'm not mistaken, therefore a bio wheel isn't nessesary. I use hang-on type power filters and they clog up very fast with plant matter. I found that if I wrap the intake with polyester batting it really lengthens the life of the filter cart. This hobby is very enjoyable, but can be frustrating in the beginning. Good luck!


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