# Making the Best DIY planted tank substrate



## tanaka

To be safe, make sure your calcium/potash source doesn't contain extra stuff or go with my alternative below.
You can either buy cheap topsoil and mineralize it or just go with organic potting mix. In my case, I can't find Miracle Gro organic potting mix so I went with Nature's Care organic potting mix. Below is basically same recipe, with some minor tweaks

Potassium Powder(look for salt substiture at walmart) - sprinkle all over just enough to cloud the bottom glass - $4 for 11 oz.

Dolomite Powder(any vitamin store should have it) - sprinkle all over just enough to cloud the bottom glass, also known as bone meal/calcium powder. But in my experience, but it is sold 4 times more EXPENSIVE when it says bone meal. Ingredients are the same, it's just that the word 'bone meal' sells more than 'dolomite'. So i'd suggesting buying bone meal powder only if you can't find dolomite. $5 for 16oz

Iron - You can either buy Red/Mexican pottery clay online or from Michael's art supply store or search for Encap Fast Acting Iron on Amazon(which is what I use). They come in little pellets that you can sprinkle across the bottom before putting dirt in. ~$9 for 5lbs clay or $29 Encap that should last you years and years.

Organic potting mix - Sift the dirt down to the finest grains with some window screening then dump it in after the things above. Fill water up to dirt level, wait a while for water to soak all the dirt completely, then cap with whatever.

Works great for me.


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## CannaBrain

I wouldn't buy Scott's or anything else you mentioned. Look for the cheapest possible top soil, don't want anything fancy with any added wood pulp like a top dressing or nutrients. I've used pretty much that recipe several times, love it. I purchased red clay from an art supply store. You should be able to find the dolomite and muriate of potash sold individually as soil ammendments at a garden center. Srsly, tho you want the cheapest top soil you can find. Like 2 bucks or less for a bag.


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## electromango

Thanks so much everyone! 

For the red clay would this work:
http://www.michaels.com/amaco-mexican-pottery-clay/10609594.html#q=Mexican+clay&start=1

And for the soil would this work:
http://m.homedepot.com/p/Miracle-Gro-Nature-s-Care-32-qt-Organic-Potting-Mix-71683120/204698486/

Also, how many bags of the soil would I need for a 40 gallon breeder tank (1 inch substrate depth)? I plan on covering it with Eco complete 1 inch, but do you recommend I use the sand or gravel Eco complete type?

Finally, do I evenly distribute the wet clay throughout the soil so that its uniform?

Thanks again everyone, you are really clearing up my noobie confusions!

Edit: Also, I'd like to ask: how messy is using This soil substrate? Would it be bad to move around plants in it?


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## CannaBrain

That would probably work for clay, though a rip-off. I bought like 10lb bags of much higher quality clay for $7.50 each. What I usually do is wait to add the clay til I'm mixing the soil. I get the soil wet, rip the clay into small pieces and mix throughout the soil. others will let a chunk of it dry then sort of grate it in as a powder.

That is a soil that some use... but if you're going the MTS route, GET CHEAP TOP SOIL. Not potting mix. Personally I dont like the idea of mgopc. I've hated miracle grow products in general for years now as their ferts are garbage and can do lasting damage to soil. As you can see in the scott's top soil, it contains peat. We don't want peat. We don't want wetting agents, we don't want added nutrients, anything that's already got "juice" if you will. THE CHEAPEST top soil will do. http://m.homedepot.com/p/40-lb-Topsoil-71140180/100355705/ I think the soil varies by region, but again... cheap cheap topsoil _is_ what you want. Once sifted and gone thru the process, it's a nice sandy/gritty/soily mix, just what your plants want. I'd probably do 2 large bags at least to be safe cuz once you've sifted and mineralized, you will have a lot less soil than what you started w/. You're aiming for about 1/2" - 1" of MTS. 

Soil can be messy if not capped properly before fill and also if we're rough when uprooting plants. Otherwise, be gentle and you shouldn't have problems. I also have malaysian trumpet snails in several mts tanks and they do not cause problems.

Personally I prefer sand as a cap since it's easier to plant into, but I've got one tank capped w/ flora-max (similar to ecocomplete's larger gravel bits), and it has done very well. I think the additional benefit of a cap w/ high CEC helps to reduce algae outbreaks around inception. In my experience, it's also less messy when up-rooting for some reason.


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## electromango

Thanks CannaBrain! Also, what clay did you use?


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## CannaBrain

Bulk indian red clay at an art supply store.


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## tony4143

what is the rule of thumb on the clay?? do you cover the entire bottom of the tank?


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## Monster Fish

If you're using red indian clay, 1/4lb should suffice per 10g of tank space.


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## bpb

Lots of good advice here. The topsoil will vary regionally. When I purchased and used that particular topsoil for previous attempts, it was nothing but ultra fine clay sand and pine bark. Never really did the trick for me. I did two batches using it, and when i took the tanks down to reload the substrate, both times it had hardened like cement and required a bit of elbow grease to get loose. My current tank actually uses miracle gro organic potting mix as well as the MTS amendments, AND EI dosing. In theory the substrate should have provided substantial nutrients but after months of showing lots of deficiencies I had to start supplementing. 

Sometimes finding the "cheapest" option is a lot more difficult than finding the fastest option. I could never source red clay locally so I went ahead and just bought laterite from petsmart. Is it more expensive? Sure. Am I a high roller? No. Am I in poverty? No. I needed clay and got sick of looking so there it is. An extra $10 didn't mean my family had to miss a meal. At any rate, I digress. 

I was also never able to find dolomite locally, still can't, so I sprinkle a bit of aragonite and Epsom salt at the bottom glass before adding anything. Not quite as slow to release as true dolomite, but I also add 4 tbsp of GLA GH booster weekly so I have those parameters covered. 

This is the muriate of potash I used, found at the local farmers co-op. It was cheap and lasts literally forever. You only need a handful and the bag is huge. I also use it to amend my garden soil outside now. I imagine I'll still have this bag in 10 years










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## electromango

Did you mineralize your organic potting soil or just immediately place it in the tank? Also, did you have any problems with water quality/messiness with it? How were the results when compared to mts? Thanks!


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## bpb

I did not mineralize it. Just went straight in. I capped mine with 3" of floramax. To be totally honest all it did at first was cause a boatload of algae which was difficult to tackle but now a few months into it I'm really loving the growth I'm getting, though I feel like a lot of that is the CO2 and EI dosing, not the substrate 


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## tony4143

Monster Fish said:


> If you're using red indian clay, 1/4lb should suffice per 10g of tank space.


i will be doing 450 gallons....:icon_idea


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## Monster Fish

tony4143 said:


> i will be doing 450 gallons....:icon_idea


Geez. You're gonna need at least 10lbs of red clay if you want to mix the MTS. If you want a more accurate amount, use 1/4lbs per each 200 cubic inches of MTS.


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## oldpunk78

The whole idea with mineralized topsoil is that you're breaking down the soil into powder basically. If you just throw it in your tank as dirt, your loosing a lot of the benefits. 

Make mud. Let it dry. Make mud, let it dry. Do this until it turns to powder when the mud breaks up. 3-4 cycles normally.


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## electromango

So is MTS a better choice than MGOPM in terms of plant growth and avoiding algal problems?

If I were to go the MTS root, should I get the cheap top soil or mineralize the organic potting mix?

Also, is the organic matter in the organic potting mix better for growth than simple mineralized dirt or does it just decay/leech into the water and cause problems? 

Also, how many bags of 40 lb topsoil should I buy from Home Depot for a 40 gallon breeder for a 1 inch depth?

About how many days does it take to fully mineralize and how do you know when it's mineralized?

If my waters pH is already high (7.6+, can I skip the dolomite and add peat to the top soil to lower my tanks pH (I want Amazonian fish) or do something else? Would this cause pH swings?


Sorry for so many questions but I'm so new to all of this and I really want to get off on a right step! Thanks so much for all the advice so far!


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## oldpunk78

Too many questions at once 

Use cheap dirt (topsoil). The organic stuff is fine. What your after is getting the soil to break down and decay before it goes into your tank. 

Use the additives. 

Probably two bags. You should have some left over. Don't sift until the end.


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## electromango

So should I add the dolomite to the mineralized top soil mixture, or add peat moss, or neither? My pH is already 7.6 so would a mineral hardener be necessary or is it different for soil mechanics/chemistry?


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## bpb

The dolomite isn't just to raise ph. It is a calcium and magnesium source for the plants. Vital trace elements that will cause problems if there is a deficiency 


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## electromango

Ok, I decided to go the mineralized route. Now I have to decide between three different soils. Should I get:

Plain topsoil (dirt cheap) http://m.homedepot.com/p/40-lb-Topsoil-71140180/100355705/


Miracle grow natures care organic potting mix: http://www.miraclegro.com/smg/goprod/natures-care-organic-potting-mix/prod11230009

The second one says it contains sphagnum peat moss, yucca, coir, processed forest products and other organic fertilizers. Are these extra nutrients/beneficial or harmful? Do they provide more nutrients than the top soil or are they the same once mineralized?

Or is there any other one that you guys have used, liked, and suggest? Thanks!


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## Monster Fish

Go with the first one. The second bag has too many organics that will take to long to break down during the wet dry process and when underneath your substrate cap.


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## electromango

There's also this which is highly recommended but is it suitable for mineralized soil? http://m.lowes.com/pd/Miracle-Gro-32-Quart-Organic-Potting-Soil/3652642


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## Monster Fish

Again, too many organics for mineralizing.


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## electromango

Ok, I'll go with the top soil. But it has a lot of reviews that state that it's full of branches and rocks and sand, so should I purchase several bags? And how should the quality top soil that I need look like? Does it look brown, rich, sandy, etc? (Basically, how do I make sure I'm using the right part of the soil for my tank)?


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## Monster Fish

Buy several bags, mineralize, then sift at the end. The soil should be fine and crumbly when picking up dry chunks. It should also have no discernable smell when dry.


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## Hoppy

"Mineralizing" means converting the organic nitrogen into inorganic nitrogen (nitrates). "Topsoil" is the mix of sand, clay, and humus that are the top few inches of any soil where plants have been growing for some time. Humus is made up of organic compounds, partly rotted plant parts. So, if you really do want the cheapest substrate, you need to grab a shovel, head for a planted area, like a forest, a grassland area, or, one of the best sources, a rice field. Some of us have good reasons why we can't easily do that, so you can go to a landscape rock "store" and you will usually find real topsoil there for sale at a price that would be near zero for the small quantity we normally need, but probably for their minimum purchase price. Then mineralize that, and use cheap pool filter sand as the top layer. We have had this discussion many times here, and the other side of the discussion is that real topsoil can possibly contain insecticides, herbicides, solvents, and other random chemicals. I believe the risk of this is negligible unless you pick an area that has had commercial or industrial use recently.


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## electromango

Thanks for the advic everyone!

So I visited Home Depot and they only had 2 top soils available. One was Scott's premium top soil enriched with peat moss, and the other was timberline enriched with organic humus. However, when I opened both up at the store, they contained so much twigs branches mosses and different things with barely any quality dirt by the time finish sifting. Would these even be effective at creating a rich planted tank substrate? It seems like just a mix if different materials for leveling and filling holes with barely any actual dirt. Shouldn't i use MGOCPM instead for the nutrients and plant growth? 

Btw, I'm not exactly looking for the "dirt cheap" route, just trying to create he best substrate for my plants so they can thrive without spending ridiculous amounts of money on ADA aqua soil or the like. 

Thanks again for the continued support and advice!


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## oldpunk78

Don't be concerned with crap in the dirt. Some of it will break down. You can screen out the rest.

Fwiw, you're putting way too much thought into this. 

Step 1. Buy cheap dirt.
Step 2. Get a large plastic container.
Step 3. Make mud.
Step 4. Open a big tarp.
Step 5. Spread out the mud on the tarp.
Step 6. Let dry.
Step 7. Crumble and repeat steps 1-7 until it doesn't smell like dirt anymore. 
Step 8. Screen out the large particles.
Done. Make really thick mud and put in tank.


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## electromango

Would this top soil work?

http://t.homedepot.com/p/Scotts-0-75-cu-ft-Premium-Topsoil-71130758/100619053

It says it contains "Blend of organic materials plus peat moss for a good balance of nutrients".

Or would the peat moss be bad/cause pH fluctuations? Has anyone had any experience with this?


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## CannaBrain

go even cheaper. the topsoil i use is like... got some twigs, some pebbles, sand, dirt, small wood bits. it's $1.60/bag. Big bag. again, it varies by region.. but hopefully local hardware store will have just plain old basic top soil. i'd avoid scott's products. 

+1 for your over-thinking  it's berry easy. 

Here's how I do it, hopefully this will be easy.

Open soil, pour into tub, fill with water. use a net to get anything that floats to the top immediately. let sit for a day. 
day later, spread out on tarp. allow to dry thoroughly. put screen or however you want to filter over tub. shovel dry dirt over screen. take a big rock and press dirt into screen to break up clumps. big stuff obviously you dump.

repeat 3 - 4 more times. 

after last dry, i screen one more time right before it goes into big trash bags for storage. done!


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## electromango

Correct me I'm wrong but isn't sphagnum peat good to maintain soil chemistry/pH and help roots grow?


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## electromango

What kind of top soil do you guys recommend? Is there a certain brand name? Organic? Thanks


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## bpb

Most people are recommending you go to the local hardware store and pick up literally the cheapest bag labeled topsoil. Here in this area of Texas at Home Depot it's called "Earth Grow Topsoil" and it's about $0.99 for a 40 lb bag of it. Others are correct. You're over thinking it. The contents of the bag will be fine sand, with various size pieces of bark and wood pulp. Topsoil is not heavily controlled in its ingredients. They will vary from bag to bag regionally. The idea of mineralization is that you're converting all the nitrogenous compounds into inert material. That's all there is to it. If you're still having second thought, just pick up the miracle grow organic potting mix and mineralize that. Worst case scenario...you lose that extra $7. Big deal. Don't bother with sifting until the end or not at all. Either way it won't make a drastic impact on your results


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## electromango

bpb said:


> Most people are recommending you go to the local hardware store and pick up literally the cheapest bag labeled topsoil. Here in this area of Texas at Home Depot it's called "Earth Grow Topsoil" and it's about $0.99 for a 40 lb bag of it. Others are correct. You're over thinking it. The contents of the bag will be fine sand, with various size pieces of bark and wood pulp. Topsoil is not heavily controlled in its ingredients. They will vary from bag to bag regionally. The idea of mineralization is that you're converting all the nitrogenous compounds into inert material. That's all there is to it. If you're still having second thought, just pick up the miracle grow organic potting mix and mineralize that. Worst case scenario...you lose that extra $7. Big deal. Don't bother with sifting until the end or not at all. Either way it won't make a drastic impact on your results
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you personally recommend MTS or adding MGOCPM straight in or mineralizing the potting mix?


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## bpb

If you have the time and the space, mineralized topsoil with the correct additives is your best bet i personally think. Miracle gro is alright but I'm having to dose EI in more than the recommended amount just to keep my macros elevated, and this is only 3-4 months after setting up the tank with miracle gro that went straight in. I have to dose double the KNO3 just to get my tests to read 5 ppm. That shouldn't be happening with fresh miracle grow. Just hasn't worked for me like it has for others


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## bpb

If you have the time and the space, mineralized topsoil with the correct additives is your best bet i personally think. Miracle gro is alright but I'm having to dose EI in more than the recommended amount just to keep my macros elevated, and this is only 3-4 months after setting up the tank with miracle gro that went straight in. I have to dose double the KNO3 just to get my tests to read 5 ppm. That shouldn't be happening with fresh miracle grow. Just hasn't worked for me like it has for others. But if you're in an apartment, or don't have a large enough space outside you can spread a tarp and sift dirt in the hot sun for days/weeks, then miracle gro straight in the tank may be your option 


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## electromango

Would I still need dolomite if my ph is high (7.6)? Wouldn't that just make the water harder and make it harder for plants to absorb iron?


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## bpb

If you're using tap water you'd want to know the calcium and magnesium content. The purpose of the dolomite is to provide those trace elements, not necessarily just to elevate ph. Are you injecting co2? If you are then your ph should be low enough regardless


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## electromango

I probably won't be injecting co2 but I will add carbon via flourish excel daily/every other day. Would a light sprinkle to lightly coat the bottom of the tank be good without changing pH? Thanks again for your help!


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