# Aquarium glass scratches removal..Need some advice



## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

Search YouTube, a while back when I was looking for acrylic scratch removal I found a couple videos on removing scratches from glass. Scratches from glass will not come out, however, "buffing" them out will help to make them less noticeable.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Scratches are more likely to come out with the cerium oxide on glass, than acrylic.
I have removed scratches from glass many times with Cerium oxide and buffing with orbital buffer.
Gotta say though,don't know how you could miss the scratches from the photo, unless you bought the tank sight unseen.?
Give the cerium oxide a try.
The fact that you cannot feel the scratches , = better chance of removing them.


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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

I've watched some of the videos. Wanted to get info from people who have done it in regards to distortion and if it's worth it.

Or if i need to reach out to the person I bought it from. He may take it back, but don't want risk messing it up more.

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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

roadmaster said:


> Scratches are more likely to come out with the cerium oxide on glass, than acrylic.
> I have removed scratches from glass many times with Cerium oxide and buffing with orbital buffer.
> Gotta say though,don't know how you could miss the scratches from the photo, unless you bought the tank sight unseen.?
> Give the cerium oxide a try.
> The fact that you cannot feel the scratches , = better chance of removing them.


Dark room. I was excited about the tank too. And when cleaning it I was looking down at the tank sitting on the ground they didn't seem that bad till i got it on the stand and was at eye level. And I trusted the person when I asked if there were any before I went to get it.

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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

Two of the sides I painted the outside with black acrylic paint and you really cant see many scratches. I thought about flipping the tank scraping off acrylic paint and see what that side looks like.

Wether I spin it around or polish it i guess i have to drain it. Or see if the guy will give me my money back and dont mess with it.. coming from a 30gal, I really don't wanna go back to from this tank. 

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## CowBoYReX (Nov 30, 2013)

Well, I for one would be interested in the results. I have a 75 that I screwed up, looks a lot like yours. I do understand though if you try to get your money back.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

yup, cerium oxide and buffing. Using the buffing attachment you can stick into your drill.


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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

I have read posts online where people have said it distorted view of the glass. Have any guys experience this? And maybe what all steps you used.

I have a 10 gallon tank with a cracked bottom I thought about trying to recreate the scratches and practice it on that

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## Nordic (Nov 11, 2003)

It would be less work to just get a replacement front glass and silicone it in.


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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

I tried to reseal a fish tank one time before and it did not go very well.

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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

With that amount of area to cover, I would just move on and not do the time.


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## DurocShark (Feb 6, 2006)

PlantedRich said:


> With that amount of area to cover, I would just move on and not do the time.


Yep. And if the glass is tempered, there isn't much you can do anyway. 

I've had some luck with resin fillers like this as well.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Clearly nobody here has ever buffed their own automobiles.
I wonder do they just buy a new auto, or have someone wax/buff it for them ?
I would circle the area with dry erase marker on outside glass,use soft cloth to rub the cerium oxide into the affected area,buff with damp finishing pad,and then again with dry finishing pad.
OP say's the scratches are not deep, and cannot feel them with fingernail's.
Might be pleasantly surprised by result's.
At least you could say you tried.


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## Nordic (Nov 11, 2003)

It is quite a bit of work, especially if you do not have polishing equipment, not to mention, it is not just a scratch or two, but a large area.

Glass is cheap here, so a window replacement is what I would do. Expecting to get it perfect the first try may be a bit much, my first larger tank took me about 3 tries, but lessons learned and I can do a solid job now.


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## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

roadmaster said:


> Clearly nobody here has ever buffed their own automobiles.
> I wonder do they just buy a new auto, or have someone wax/buff it for them ?
> I would circle the area with dry erase marker on outside glass,use soft cloth to rub the cerium oxide into the affected area,buff with damp finishing pad,and then again with dry finishing pad.
> OP say's the scratches are not deep, and cannot feel them with fingernail's.
> ...



Removing surface imperfections from the clear coat over an automotive paint is much much easier than removing scratches from glass. Ever wonder why those same people who wax their cars still pay to get their windshield replaced every so often?

When you wax a car you're adding material into the minute scratches in the surface then buffing that material down to bring everything back to the same level/height. Doesnt work that way with glass as anything added into the scratches will no longer be see through. So with glass you literally need to erode the surface around the scratch bringing the surface *down* to the same heights. 

You're removing glass instead of removing soft wax like in an automotive application. This is why cerrium oxide is needed and why you cant just grab some turtle wax to get rid of glass scratches.

Glass is a very hard material. Thats why diamond coated bits are required to drill a hole through it. To properly get rid of scratches out requires just as hard/strong of a "tool". Working with the cerrium oxide really takes quite a bit of work to see any worthwhile results. Probably more work than is worth it for the OPs tank unfortunately.


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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

roadmaster said:


> Clearly nobody here has ever buffed their own automobiles.
> I wonder do they just buy a new auto, or have someone wax/buff it for them ?
> I would circle the area with dry erase marker on outside glass,use soft cloth to rub the cerium oxide into the affected area,buff with damp finishing pad,and then again with dry finishing pad.
> OP say's the scratches are not deep, and cannot feel them with fingernail's.
> ...


Sent you a PM

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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

lksdrinker said:


> Removing surface imperfections from the clear coat over an automotive paint is much much easier than removing scratches from glass. Ever wonder why those same people who wax their cars still pay to get their windshield replaced every so often?
> 
> When you wax a car you're adding material into the minute scratches in the surface then buffing that material down to bring everything back to the same level/height. Doesnt work that way with glass as anything added into the scratches will no longer be see through. So with glass you literally need to erode the surface around the scratch bringing the surface *down* to the same heights.
> 
> ...


 If you are waxing, buffing, your auto the right way,you are removing surface imperfection's,scratches,swirl mark's,oxidized paint,wax, first with rubbing compound and or clay bar with aggressive to least aggressive pad's.
Not unlike removing the glass as you say, but a bit more tedious.


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## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

roadmaster said:


> If you are waxing, buffing, your auto the right way,you are removing surface imperfection's,scratches,swirl mark's,oxidized paint,wax, first with rubbing compound and or clay bar with aggressive to least aggressive pad's.
> Not unlike removing the glass as you say, but a bit more tedious.




Well waxing is just that.....applying and removing wax. But you are correct that in order to remove deep scratches from a car there is a proper order of products to use beginning with a good cleaning, moving on to clay bar, various degrees of rubbing compound, into cleaner waxes, swirl removers, polishes, waxes, glazes and sealants (I've got a lot of aquarium equipment but even more automotive cleaning/repairing equipment lol). 

But the point I was trying to make is that the glass of an aquarium is a lot harder than the clear coat on an automotive paint. thats why you need the cerium oxide instead of a rubbing compound to make any real progress which is slow at best.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Every time this comes up there are mostly folks who have tried it and don't recommend it and then there are a few who tell us it is simple. 
But then everybody should really try it a time or two just so they can really know the facts! then they can come back in a few years and they can give their thoughts on what has to be one of the really enduring questions in the hobby. 

My fall back position is that if it were simple there would not be as many tanks set out on the burb for free.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

I am in agreement for the most part.
I would be more inclined to spend the effort on 125 gal tank or larger, rather than smaller tank's,but ... I think you won't SEE anything if you don't try it .
The only advantage IME with smaller tank's is usually smaller area that need's attention,and easier to move around a smaller tank to desired position to make the buffing easier on the arm's,back.
Don't recall ever saying it was easy,but then it is subjective term.No?
Used to be able to haul five gal bucket's of water up over the edge's of tank's with ease.
Now I tend to favor smaller three gal bucket's.


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## hubble13 (Sep 1, 2010)

I bought a used tank for cheap the scratches were not bad but when I removed the silicon there were hard water etchings under it. 
This is a very old tank by the way, built in the 90s. I tried several methods to remove the etchings just to see if it could be done. 
First barkeepers friend will remove any old algae stains and loose surface hard water stains. cerium Oxide will remove tiny scratches ones that you cannot catch you finger nail in, it still takes allot of effort and you still need glass polishing equipment, like different grades of buffing wheels that attach to a drill or polisher, felt polishing wheels and cerium oxide.
They make these especially for glass. 
For deeper scratches you need to grind out the scratches first with the emery buffing wheels progressing in grade from ruff to fine, then buff out with a felt pad and cerium oxide. 
It takes a long time and allot of effort I was never able to remove the etchings mostly because of the location. I had a hard time getting the buffing wheel into the corners.
you also need to make sure the glass stays wet and dose not over heat. There are several YouTube videos on this that make it look quite simple, but in my experience it was time consuming and not worth the effort.
I'll probably just end up replacing the front pane and be done with it.
It can be done, but like I said Its a lot of effort. I bought all the cheapest equipment and used a hand drill, but if you already have the stuff you need, go for it. Kind of a nice project if you have the time and money to spend but it also defeats the purpose of buying an inexpensive tank. I also ended up getting a 55 gal at the Petco one dollar a gal sale witch was ultimately the better way to go.
best of luck 
Hubble


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## Nordic (Nov 11, 2003)

I cleared up whole 60's using just rubbing compound and my hand... (I am disabled, plus 1 cardiac stent, so it took days).









Compare top and bottom tanks. They were the result of a resirculating setup on well water at a nearby fish farm.


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## KevinC (May 24, 2004)

My former 72 bow had scratches on the curved glass - they are expensive tanks so I decided to try buffing it out with cerium oxide. Spent a lot of time on it, tried different tools, etc. I'm not sure I really did anything - it was still clearly scratched - but some were deep enough to feel with a fingernail. I gave up and bought a used 72 bow on Craigslist for a great price. In my case though, the cost of replacing the glass would have been crazy - flat glass is much easier to replace and re-silicone.


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## HaeSuse (Aug 18, 2016)

roadmaster said:


> Clearly nobody here has ever buffed their own automobiles.
> I wonder do they just buy a new auto, or have someone wax/buff it for them ?


Feeling a bit snarky, are we?

Anyway, unless my own life (as well as everyone I've ever come into contact with) is a complete and total outlier, then they neither buff their own, NOR pay someone to do it, NOR buy a new car. I haven't in my entire 36 years met a person who "buffed" and "waxed" their vehicles. Outside of the few firemen and policemen I know who do it to their duty/service vehicle. 

I also spent 2 years as an auto-mechanic. And 3 months of my teenage years were at a carwash/detailing place. The only time we "buffed" cars was when some dealer had bought a used car, and wanted to pretty it up before they sold it. Not a single time, in 3 whole months, did any private consumer get their car "buffed". I do not live in an affluent area, though. Never have, never will. And I admit, the amount of close contact I have with people driving Alfa-Romeos, Porches, and Mazerattis is very, very small. Maybe they buff their cars?



Anyway, I agree. I'd give the aquarium buffing a go. I bet he is able to get it smooth enough to be a still enjoyable tank.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Grew up racing 60's 70's muscle car's ,and the guy's buffed,waxed their rides twice a month during summer, and once before winter .
We could be found at the carwash from midnight to noon polishing the car's with stereo's tuned to our favorite music.Skynyrd.Allman brother's for me.
Drive a 2007 Ford F350 today that look's like it did when I bought it with a few engine modification's,larger tires/wheel's.
I still see some of the guy's and their car's/trucks from our glory day's at the carwashes I go to, but we are getting fewer and fewer.
Carwashes are still full up on Saturday morning's, with guy's even some gal's,polishing their rides just as we did back in the day.
Cop's? Fireman? Pffffft! They polish their pant's in/ on the front seat's of their city purchased vehicles.


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## Nordic (Nov 11, 2003)

My latest model car at the moment is a 94, looks almost as good as it did new. But then again I also have a 79 beetle with nitrocellulose paint.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Was no easy thing keeping car's/truck's buffed waxed for most of us .
Our vehicles sat out in the driveway year round, or back yard, and we ran the snot out of em year round. Springsteen's song "Racing in the street's" was/is fairly apt description of the climate then and now with the younger crowd.
Mom and Daddy didn't buy our car's so we had to keep em polished /buffed cause the Chick's dig it when your styling and profiling.
I digress.


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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

Ordered cerium oxide and buffing wheels. They came, I tried it for about 30 minutes LOL ( I'm not known to have patience). In that 30 minutes I saw no sign I'll bet it was getting remotely better, but that could be because I didn't work at it hard enough. 

After slinging this stuff all over my tank, getting it in my partially drained water and a little bit on the wall I called it quits. Lfs has a used aquarium sale every month and tomorrow is one and they have a brand new 65 gallon and it just has a chip in the corner. I will be purchasing that.



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## klibs (May 1, 2014)

Never tried fixing scratches but probably not worth the time...

My 75g got scratched pretty badly by yours truly before setting it up again the last time. I was so upset when I noticed it but now I really don't even care. Not worth the hassle of fixing or getting a new tank. Usually don't even notice unless I think to look for it.


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## Androider4Life (Feb 4, 2013)

Was a PIA. I didnt have the patience. Went to a local used aquarium sale and picked up a brand new 65gal with a chip in the plastic trim for $50, then he gave me $25.00 off that cause in one spot there was a slight gap in the glass where two pieces met for a inch or two.

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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Androider4Life said:


> Was a PIA. I didnt have the patience. Went to a local used aquarium sale and picked up a brand new 65gal with a chip in the plastic trim for $50, then he gave me $25.00 off that cause in one spot there was a slight gap in the glass where two pieces met for a inch or two.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk


This is where I come down as well. I bought a scratched 75 gallon for $75 and worked a long time on getting it worth keeping and never did. I "invented a way to keep the big horse 1/2 HP drill propped in place and let it runs for hours without changing anything . So I did an advert as a "beater tank" and sole it for $50. I can easily bite the bullet for the loss rather than spend the time to do nothing. 
I feel the same way about polishing my other tools like cars. They are cars and they get beat up if you use them. I have a brother than keeps lots of cars that he doesn't drive but the one he drives is not the one he buffs as it is a waste of time!


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