# Finnex LED DYI dimmer mods?



## seachaz (Jan 20, 2012)

I've been searching for answers to this have not come across any so if there is an existing thread I'm missing please direct me.

I have a Finnex planted + and I'd like to add a ramped dimmer/timer to it. I'm wondering if I can just splice it inline with the power power cord that runs between the power pack and the light? I assume this is just a basic 12 volt line at this point and a PWM controller I think would work for controlling light output. The unknown is if there is a PWM controller within the light itself or any other reason this would create problems depending on how they wired this thing.

Yes it would void the warranty - well aware of that and not expecting Finnex to comment but curious if anyone else has done this or knows more about the internals on these lights.

Thanks,
Chaz


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

seachaz said:


> I've been searching for answers to this have not come across any so if there is an existing thread I'm missing please direct me.
> 
> I have a Finnex planted + and I'd like to add a ramped dimmer/timer to it. I'm wondering if I can just splice it inline with the power power cord that runs between the power pack and the light? I assume this is just a basic 12 volt line at this point and a PWM controller I think would work for controlling light output. The unknown is if there is a PWM controller within the light itself or any other reason this would create problems depending on how they wired this thing.
> 
> ...


The "no" should be a sticky...


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## raptor87 (Jan 10, 2008)

I haven't taken mine apart yet but don't see why you couldn't add a pwm controller


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

raptor87 said:


> I haven't taken mine apart yet but don't see why you couldn't add a pwm controller


I was probably a bit "hard" on my first post because almost anything is possible when things align right..
You could try one of these if the lights fit all the parameters.. Of course the board itself is $30
Then you need a controller..
http://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/powerpwm-led-dimmer/



> Product Description
> 
> PowerPWM allows you to control almost any standard LED strip or product. PowerPWM is connected in-line, between the power supply and LED product, and accepts the same mini-audio style plugs from your Bluefish controller. 2 channels. Not recommended for products using a fan or other devices besides LEDs on the same power supply. Not for constant current LED drivers (eg. DIY LED drivers).












Their contrlller is $195.. but it looks like you could wire a Typhon into it instead.. depending on the specs of their PWM


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## Fluffles (Jul 12, 2012)

I've always wondered if the following circuit would work with the Finnex LED lights:








(made a mistake... there's no ground on the AC cable)

I used a similar circuit to drive another set of LEDs for my tank. The problem is that I have no idea what the Finnex LED driver is. Constant voltage? constant current? How will it react with a 150-200Hz PWM signal?
At one point I dismantled my Finnex fixture but then found I needed to de-solder the wires to be able to take the driver out and decided not to keep going.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Fluffles said:


> I've always wondered if the following circuit would work with the Finnex LED lights:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



IF the LED strips have a bunch of SMD resistors it is probably "constant voltage" ..
So the "driver" is basically a stepping power supply..
Constant current drive requires a CV PS and the driver, which of course could be in the same "package"...

the block you found is probably just that. There is no other "wall wart" /puck type thing.. just a straight cord correct??

You diagram is eqiv. to what I posted.. I believe.. and is nothing more, if I understand this correctly a "fast switch" w/ a switching speed of the PW.. 

I've mostly need "how to" dim (i.e .. apply PWM signal here  ) not how dimming works........


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## tony4143 (Oct 19, 2014)

did this ever come to past?


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## mattinmd (Aug 16, 2014)

I modded one using an off-the-shelf dimmer from Amazon.. works great..

Full details over in the DIY section.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=796442&highlight=


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

tony4143 said:


> did this ever come to past?


Th topic has evolved over time. Finnex has also abandoned there power supply "on board" and went w/ mostly separate power supplies.

As well as the manual dimmer as above more flexible control can be done w/ things like this:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ized-brightness-adjust/426232_1951850063.html

you would only use one "channel" per fixture and don't exceed the 4A (roughly 48W) per channel...


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## mattinmd (Aug 16, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> Th topic has evolved over time. Finnex has also abandoned there power supply "on board" and went w/ mostly separate power supplies.


Jeff, AFAIK, the "on board" supply only ever applied to the Ray2.. 

I could be mistaken, but I thought their other LED fixtures have always had external bricks (mostly hardwired), including the Planted+ this thread was about.. (clearly the OP indicated an external pack on his/her Planted+).

The Ray2's seem to have recently(?) shifted to using external bricks, although I'm not sure if that's the whole line or just some models.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

mattinmd said:


> Jeff, AFAIK, the "on board" supply only ever applied to the Ray2..
> 
> I could be mistaken, but I thought their other LED fixtures have always had external bricks (mostly hardwired), including the Planted+ this thread was about.. (clearly the OP indicated an external pack on his/her Planted+).
> 
> The Ray2's seem to have recently(?) shifted to using external bricks, although I'm not sure if that's the whole line or just some models.


I stretched a bit but your right AFAICT RayII's (some) and the little clip on Planted plusses w just red and white..No idea about the current 3 color ones..

I was still a-learning at that point.. 

Putting PS components over the most heat was never a very good idea..


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## mattinmd (Aug 16, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> Putting PS components over the most heat was never a very good idea..


True, but putting a high capacity power supply in a sealed plastic brick isn't a good idea either, unless you can get the efficiency up high enough to keep the heat production down. But high efficiency = higher cost, etc..

It is surprising how well heat builds up inside a sealed plastic brick...


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