# Budget 75 gallon low tech planted tank journal



## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Alright. It is finally time to start my 75 gallon low tech low light peaceful community densely planted aquarium.(What a mouth full)!

And it's all on a budget of 500 dollars.

So far I only have my stand, but I will soon start adding more and more to it until it is complete.

As for equipment, I will have:

1. Polar aurora 4 stage 525 GPH canister filter with built it 5 watt UV sterilizer.(and replacement media) $90.63

2. Boxtech submersible 300 watt heater with guard. $32.99

3. Aquaeffects model 2.(It would be wiser to go with the 48" nicrew light, but this one has sound effects so.....) $93.97

4. Segarty 6 in 1 aquascape tool set. $29.99

All this costs about $250 on amazon.

The nicrew LED is half the price as the aquaeffects, but also half as awesome. The aquaeffects has a built in dimmer, timer, 5+ different light and sound modes, etc.

The stand was on sale for $160. It is made of particle board so I would go with higher quality if possible, but that would be far more expensive.


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## Ryan.Waite (Jun 20, 2019)

Looks like your off to a good start. Excited to see this come together.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you! I am to. I am trying to find a tank right now, but am having a hard time. I am going to a different petco to see if they have anything before the sale ends.

Bump: I am using as little money as possible because my parents told me I have to start saving up for a car. I hated the idea at first, but then realized I could get a job at Wet Spot Tropical Fish, which is like 45 minutes away. The commute is bad, but working at the Oregon's best fish store? HECK YES!!!!!!!!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I could probably get discounts on fish to.....


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## Duboisi (Jul 11, 2019)

Have you tried looking for used tanks from craigslist or local fb fish groups? Possibly on this forum too? You never know

Every once a while you hear ppl finding great deals.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Here are the plants I am thinking of getting:

anubias barteri x4
anubias cofeefolia x1
java fern x3
dwarf four leaf clover (Carpet patches)
duckweed (Floats)
temple plant x2
brazilia pennywort x2

MAYBE cryptocorene wendtii

Bump:


Duboisi said:


> Have you tried looking for used tanks from craigslist or local fb fish groups? Possibly on this forum too? You never know
> 
> Every once a while you hear ppl finding great deals.


I am getting the 75 gallon tank on a 50% off sale, and my dad offered to pay for half of it so only have to $47.50. I can't find a better deal than that.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you! I am to. I am trying to find a tank right now, but am having a hard time. I am going to a different petco to see if they have anything before the sale ends.
> 
> Bump: I am using as little money as possible because my parents told me I have to start saving up for a car. I hated the idea at first, but then realized I could get a job at Wet Spot Tropical Fish, which is like 45 minutes away. The commute is bad, but working at the Oregon's best fish store? HECK YES!!!!!!!!


Now working at Wet Spot would be cool! (thumbs up!)

Bump:


aquanerd13 said:


> Here are the plants I am thinking of getting:
> 
> anubias barteri x4
> anubias cofeefolia x1
> ...


 Id keep an eye out for ROAK's as well for plants. 

When you do get your tank up I can send you some Java Fern.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thanks Amy, I'll pass on the Java Fern. Thank you though!! What is a ROAK? I googled it and found ROAK brewing co., but that is probably not what you are talking about.


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## sittinglynx (Feb 18, 2019)

I 2nd @Duboisi opinion. I would be checking craigslist & letgo regularly. You very well might get a better deal on a new tank at Petsmart, but you might find a great deal on a used Tank, Stand, & Canopy all together on Craigslist (or re-purposed wood to build a rock solid stand). If needed, upgrade to a new tank later down the line. Personally, I would be skeptical of a stand for a 75 gallon tank with partial board, I would be guessing the studs are pine. A 55 gallons tank is 625lbs, so I think you're looking at 850lbs on your floor with a 75 gallon tank. Oak, Cherry or Walnut is the way to go. I know these are expensive materials, even for a home build, but think about the headache (heaven forbid) of taking everything down in a hurry because your stand is slowly collapsing. I've learned as long as I have a tank, I will be spending money on it, so I'd rather go slow with the mindset that I will not have to replace nearly anything in the long run. I'm trying to be helpful, not a downer, so I hope this is taken in the same spirit & if you've already studied all these bases, then ignore my old man need to be fatherly,lol! but...

Here's a 90 gallon for $350 with everything one posted a few hours ago in the Portland area. 

https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/d/kelso-aquarium-supplies/6941278930.html

and a 75 gallon set up for $400

https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/for/d/beaverton-75-gallon-fish-tank-all/6937915794.html

Anyway you go, I wish you luck and I hope this turns out to be a great tank and lots of fun for years to come


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## grizzly_a (Sep 9, 2014)

Hopefully that wood floor is made out of pergo or something waterproof....my hardwood floors do not look the same after having aquariums on them even with great care....oh well, live and learn.




aquanerd13 said:


> Here are the plants I am thinking of getting:
> 
> anubias barteri x4
> anubias cofeefolia x1
> ...


I'm 45min away from WetSpot and can help you with the CoffeeFolia, Brazillian Pennywort, and Duckweed. Do you want giant duckweed or normal? LOL.

I would recommend holding off on Crypts initially until the substrate and tank gets more established and then plant them 6-12 months down the road. 



aquanerd13 said:


> Thanks Amy, I'll pass on the Java Fern. Thank you though!! What is a ROAK? I googled it and found ROAK brewing co., but that is probably not what you are talking about.


Random Act Of Kindness (RAOK)




sittinglynx said:


> I 2nd @Duboisi opinion. I would be checking craigslist & letgo regularly. You very well might get a better deal on a new tank at Petsmart, but you might find a great deal on a used Tank, Stand, & Canopy all together on Craigslist (or re-purposed wood to build a rock solid stand). If needed, upgrade to a new tank later down the line. Personally, I would be skeptical of a stand for a 75 gallon tank with partial board, I would be guessing the studs are pine. A 55 gallons tank is 625lbs, so I think you're looking at 850lbs on your floor with a 75 gallon tank. Oak, Cherry or Walnut is the way to go. I know these are expensive materials, even for a home build, but think about the headache (heaven forbid) of taking everything down in a hurry because your stand is slowly collapsing. I've learned as long as I have a tank, I will be spending money on it, so I'd rather go slow with the mindset that I will not have to replace nearly anything in the long run. I'm trying to be helpful, not a downer, so I hope this is taken in the same spirit & if you've already studied all these bases, then ignore my old man need to be fatherly,lol! but...
> 
> Here's a 90 gallon for $350 with everything one posted a few hours ago in the Portland area.
> 
> ...


:thumbsup: Wise words. Don't cheap out on the stand. If it gets wet, particle board swells and then loses its integrity. I know because I'm in a pickle with my current stand that came with a great deal on CL. <sarcasm> Good thing NOTHING EVER goes wrong with hoses, canister filters, tanks, water changes, etc. <\end sarcasm> Put your canister filter in a shallow plastic tub...just in case.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. I am getting moisture alarms and all that, but I will use a plastic tube to. I was going to use a non-toxic waterproof coating for the stand, but I could do that for the floor to. I will hold off on the crypts for now. I am still debating on them, so that will give me time to decide.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I was wondering what a good carpeting plant would be? I was thinking java moss, but could i plant them directly in the substrate?


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## grizzly_a (Sep 9, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> I was wondering what a good carpeting plant would be? I was thinking java moss, but could i plant them directly in the substrate?


You've got a lot of threads about similar things going on. I would stay away from carpeting with java moss, but if you want some.....

Go with your dwarf 4-leaf clover, or hairgrass, dwarf sag, etc. It just depends on how dense you want your "carpet" to be.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thank you. Clover it is then.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, I am about ready to go get the tank and place the first amazon order, then go to wet spot and check out driftwood. Depending on where I am at on the aquascape, I may get plants that trip to.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

What about extra plumbing for canister tank return, you’ll need 2 of these plus spraybar it comes with along with plumping parts to build a manifold with 3 outputs to effectively cover a tank of that size. One spray bar isn’t even close to cutting it.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am confused. An 18 inch long .5 inch diameter spray bar isn't enough? It comes with 2 types of outputs. Here it is.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NDYVXOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=A308TXLYHTTMA5&psc=1


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> I am confused. An 18 inch long .5 inch diameter spray bar isn't enough? It comes with 2 types of outputs. Here it is.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NDYVXOC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=A308TXLYHTTMA5&psc=1




You can use that filter no problem but you’ll probably want to add a wave maker to prevent dead spots. On four foot (and wider) tanks, many people like to double up on canisters as well. I’m likely going to choose the former, but I’m after the HW-3000, over 700 gph rated, but real world likely a bit less. Should still give decent turnover. Also on a 75.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Nope, yes I looked at filter. in a 4ft by 18” tank, especially with a 20” water column height you’ll need that spraybar blowing down back wall to make current at back of tank that sweeps down and across substrate and keeps debris moving and then 2 nozzles in top corners blowing slightly towards center and providing surface ripple and the current will meet in middle and then sweeps down front glass to provide circulation to front of tank. 

I would have at least that many outputs splitting up that 560gph into 3 185gph outputs and distributing them around tank evenly front and back. You can’t properly set up a 4’x18”x 20” tank with one output, you’ll end up with circulation dead zones. And 565gph entering tank at one point will blow your plants sideways in that area so that is another problem but you’ll also still end up with dead spots. 

My 65gal that I had (36x18x24) had 4 200gph nozzles, 2 blowing down back glass covering back and 2 blowing at front glass sweeping around front of tank. It was a perfect setup. 

Your actually a bit underpowered on gph so you better set it up to be as effective as possible at keeping tank swept up and evenly distributing current/nutrients/oxygen/gases around tank. 

With that segmented spraybar you might be able to get away with pointing half of it down back wall behind plants and then point other half up at front glass and give the front half of tank circulation and do surface ripple/gas exchange. 

With a 12” tank you can get away with a single spraybar pointed at front of tank, 18” tanks are a different beast altogether. 

I’ve been setting up aquariums for 30yrs and proper circulation and flow patterns in tank are easily as important as lights, substrate and ferts/nutrients.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I will also have a cascade penn plaz 200 HOB filter.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

also I have honey gouramis, which can't have current.

Bump: Anyways I just got the tank. I hope to get it and the stand into position today


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Does anyone have a recommendations for how many plants I should get?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Does anyone have a recommendations for how many plants I should get?


As many as you can afford. The more plants you plant in the beginning, the better.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> also I have honey gouramis, which can't have current.
> 
> Bump: Anyways I just got the tank. I hope to get it and the stand into position today


Which is even more reason to split up the output from that canister into 3-4 outputs that are a gentler 185gph or less and distribute them evenly around tank than having one bombastic 565gph output.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

DaveKS said:


> Which is even more reason to split up the output from that canister into 3-4 outputs that are a gentler 185gph or less and distribute them evenly around tank than having one bombastic 565gph output.




I like the idea of having multiple outputs. Do you like this method rather than a spray bar? Do you have any pictures of how you plumb multiple outlets to a single canister?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

yes. A picture would be nice.

I will get this for tubing
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H9CBXKB/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7OH1LS91Z6GF

As for sprays, a list or general idea of what I need would nice.

Bump: Also keep in mind that I really need to impress my parents with this tank. A bunch of huge ugly filter outputs/spraybars will be hard to hide, even in a tank that large. I also wanted to make a 'curtain' of plants at the back of the tank, leaving several inches between the plants and the back wall so the fish can hide from the tv or people or whatever.

Bump: is this output a good one?

Bump: So what you want me to do is put the spraybar on the back wall with my cascade 200 and point the bar downwards to the bottom of the tank, and then 2 of those duckbills on the sides of the tank?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

varanidguy said:


> I like the idea of having multiple outputs. Do you like this method rather than a spray bar? Do you have any pictures of how you plumb multiple outlets to a single canister?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


this is basically what I would set up in that tank. All it will take is 6-8ft of extra hose and 2 nozzles plus sprayer canister comes with and a few plumbing parts.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

output nozzles x2
https://www.amazon.com/Multipurpose...t+nozzle&qid=1564451198&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-3


thats wrong size hose, your hose couldn't possibly be 3/16 ID on that canister,,measure id of hose that came with it and match that. nor will you need 26ft of it

put background on tank and only thing you'll see are nozzles and sprayer coming over top edge. all hoses will be on back out of sight.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thx so much. Will do.

Bump: Where should the intake tube be?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok thx so much. Will do.
> 
> Bump: Where should the intake tube be?




Just a guess, but I’m thinking in this design, it doesn’t matter too much, since the outputs are providing the current to as close to 100% of the tank as possible.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

varanidguy said:


> Just a guess, but I’m thinking in this design, it doesn’t matter too much, since the outputs are providing the current to as close to 100% of the tank as possible.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


YEP, everything gently in motion around whole tank and eventually gets swept over to canister input, maybe give it a little help with turkey baster 2-3 times a month. Nutrients distributed properly, oxygenated current lightly blowing across whole tanks substrate so it's bio-filter is purring like a well tuned engine. Plants at bottom just lightly wiggling in breeze with almost no debris settling on them anywhere in tank.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

ok. Could I just get 1 of those U shaped return pipes and use my cascade 200 HOB filter in place of that?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Does this liset look good to you?

aquaeffects model 2 led light 93.95

Polar Aurora 4 stage 25 GPH canister filter 76.99

Segarty 6 in 1 aquascape tools set 29.99

Fairmount minerals pool filter sand 56.00(2 bags)

25' python water change hose 39.99

atlas 772 long sleeve gloves 11.68

2 in 1 water alarm 6.99

seachem paragaurd 13.50

sunny thick yoga mat 4.99 

marina floating thermometer with suction cup 1.72

CNZ filter media pack 13.99

Aqueon pro series 300w heater 32.92

aquarium background 14.99

java fern bare root 12.00(x3)

aquatic arts java moss 25 square inch portion 20.92

ThePetStop U shaped filter outlet 8.59

3/4 inch water line 3 way splitter 18.13

Total= 465.76

Bump: It is WAY out of my ideal price range thanks to @DaveKS and his pointing out that I needed better flow. Any way to lower the price? I have the tank and the stand already so I can't get them off cragslist. 

I am getting most of plants at wet spot as they are better deals, but some were better on amazon.

This is my plant list for wetspot.

Temple plant x2	$8.00
Brazilian pennywort x2	$8.00
Dwarf 4 leaf clover x3 pots	$12.00
Anubias cofeefolia x1	$7.00
duckweed	$1.00


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Does this liset look good to you?
> 
> aquaeffects model 2 led light 93.95
> 
> ...



For filtration- just do what you can afford to begin and modify as needed/budget permits. The turnover rate of these two filters are perfectly fine for what your planning. Make sure that, with your python, you keep areas clean at substrate where you may get build-up of waste/debris, do weekly water changes, do not over-feed--- and it will be fine. 



You could save a lot more on plants by getting them from members on this forum. Especially those that are willing to give you plants for free.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. So you think DaveKS is right about the filter? If so, buying that stuff is not a problem. Thank you again.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you. So you think DaveKS is right about the filter? If so, buying that stuff is not a problem. Thank you again.


If you can afford it; sure, do it. Anytime you take measures to ensure no dead spots in aquarium where debris might accumulate is worthwhile.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Perfect, Thank you so much everybody!!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Could I dry start java moss? It would be on driftwood.


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## grizzly_a (Sep 9, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> Could I dry start java moss? It would be on driftwood.


You could, but it would be easier to tie it or glue it to the driftwood. After a month, cut the thread and you're good to go and you wouldn't be having to go from emersed to submerged.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. I did some reading and I am going with the seachem flourish glue. I will also use it for my java fern and anubias.


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## cl3537 (Jan 28, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you. I did some reading and I am going with the seachem flourish glue.


Crazy glue gel type CyanoAcrylate is the same and can be bought at dollar store. Just make sure its only CyanoAcrylate.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Our dollar store does not carry stuff like that I don't think, and we never go there

Bump: So I am about to place the big order on amazon. Is there anything I was missing from the list in one of my earlier posts? Any reminders?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Dude you need to just slow down. 

Get canister, you don't even know what size hose canister comes with which you will need to know to buy proper sized extra plumbing parts. I've looked online and I can't find those specs.

Sand? Do you not have a ACE hardware around you where you can get HTH pool sand? Its almost half the price of what your ordering.

I would get those, mat and heater and go from there. Get those set up, running and start the fishless cycle routine. Your also going to probably need to do some shimming of stand etc, in most houses floor is far from level.

I also think your going to be disappointed with that lights intensity at substrate in 21" tall tank. its par at substrate will probably only be about 25, they list par as [email protected]" so at water column height yours will be slightly below that.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

DaveKS said:


> Dude you need to just slow down.
> 
> Get canister, you don't even know what size hose canister comes with which you will need to know to buy proper sized extra plumbing parts. I've looked online and I can't find those specs.
> 
> ...


It says 3/4 inch hoses. I already shimmed the stand. I don't need to cycle as I have 11 neon tetras with a cascade 200 and the filter will go in there with the tetras when the time comes. Then when I need to quarantine the new fish after about 6 months, I can put the cascade back on the 10 gallon for quarantine. As for the sand, thank you so much. I checked the website and the price is cheaper than dirt.(literally). I know 0 about how much PAR for good viewing. What light do you recommend instead? Thank you very much for catching those. Sorry I am new to the lighting thing. I don't use a light on my current tank as I only have anubias.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> It says 3/4 inch hoses. I already shimmed the stand. I don't need to cycle as I have 11 neon tetras in a cascade 200 and the filter will go in there when the time comes. Then when I need to quarantine the new fish after about 6 months, I can put the cascade back on the 10 gallon for quarantine. As for the sand, thank you so much. I checked the website and the price is cheaper than dirt.(literally). I know 0 about how much PAR for good viewing. What light do you recommend instead? Thank you very much for catching those. Sorry I am new to the lighting thing. I don't use a light on my current tank as I only have anubias.


Adding new decor, substrate, and all that will still cause ammonia, even if you put on an already established filter. The established filter will definitely help, but I wouldn't bet on an "insta-cycle".


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So what should I do about it? I decided just to get the filter, heater, substrate, hardscape, yoga mat, thermometer, water alarm, python hose, outlets, black background for now. Also, what would be a good light for my tank? My plants are all low light-mid compatible. I need a light that will make the colors really pop.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Set up the tank, all brand new stuff. Run it for a week and monitor the ammonia. If you get some, do a fishless cycle, but you can speed it up by squeezing the dirty sponge from your established filter into the tank. Monitor your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Once you have zero zero and some, add the 11 neon tetras. In that size tank, it won't crash a newly established cycle. What will also help is heavily planting the tank. How much are you wanting to spend on the light? That's a hard question to answer without knowing that.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Not much. I am looking at the finnex stingray 48" along with the nicrew and beamswork lights, both 48". My budget is as low as possible while still maintaining good viewing, quality, and plant growth(which is not at all an issue with the plants I will get).


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Not much. I am looking at the finnex stingray 48" along with the nicrew and beamswork lights, both 48". My budget is as low as possible while still maintaining good viewing, quality, and plant growth(which is not at all an issue with the plants I will get).




I’d recommend a Beamswork DA FSPEC. It’s a lot of light for not a lot of money. And it can be dimmed with the proper dimmer, if you need it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Yea that cascade with premade filter cartridges and bio block is probably 1/10th max the bio mass of substrate that’s running that 5gal. Your best bet would be when you make move is to gather up all gravel in that 5, don’t rinse it and put it in a panty hose or finer mesh bag and set that gravel bag, mulm and all in your new tank for a bacteria seed. Of coarse wait a few days/week after new tank is filled/dechlored to do that. 

You’ll kill those neons dumping them in a tank of all brand new water/substrate just trying to run that hob as your only bio filter. It’s not what’s running that 5gal, the substrate is it’s main bio filter.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Also you’ll need some hose clamps for any barbed hose fitting. Trust me, you don’t want a hose popping off and pumping 75gal of water into your parents living room. 

1” should fit the outside diameter of most thinner walled 3/4” ID hose.

These nylon type work great. You might check at ACE etc for better price on just what you need.

https://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Double...TGJSR1W0VEP&psc=1&refRID=MKDC469KSTGJSR1W0VEP


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

DaveKS said:


> Yea that cascade with premade filter cartridges and bio block is probably 1/10th max the bio mass of substrate that’s running that 5gal. Your best bet would be when you make move is to gather up all gravel in that 5, don’t rinse it and put it in a panty hose or finer mesh bag and set that gravel bag, mulm and all in your new tank for a bacteria seed. Of coarse wait a few days/week after new tank is filled/dechlored to do that.
> 
> You’ll kill those neons dumping them in a tank of all brand new water/substrate just trying to run that hob as your only bio filter. It’s not what’s running that 5gal, the substrate is it’s main bio filter.


Ok thx. BTW it is a 10 gallon.

Bump:


DaveKS said:


> Also you’ll need some hose clamps for any barbed hose fitting. Trust me, you don’t want a hose popping off and pumping 75gal of water into your parents living room.
> 
> 1” should fit the outside diameter of most thinner walled 3/4” ID hose.
> 
> ...


I am getting the ones you showed me. Good catch. Thank you.



varanidguy said:


> I’d recommend a Beamswork DA FSPEC. It’s a lot of light for not a lot of money. And it can be dimmed with the proper dimmer, if you need it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yup. I am going with that light and the inline timer. Thank you.


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

I think you are getting off to a great start here. The most important thing right here that will help you, and all of us will say the same thing, is patience. Anytime you try to rush a tank, things go wrong. 
Take your time in the cycling process, this is the most important step of the set up, it is literally the life or death of your fish. Leave the neons be, if they are happy then dont risk them in the new tank until you are 100% sure. 
I will speak for the community here when I say this, we have all wished that we had slowed down and let things age and process properly at least once before, most likely more than once. The excitement of a new tank can overwhelm our ability to think clearly. So just take a moment at every step and think, is this truly the best decision? Good life advice as well. 

Re lights. Beamswork will get you most light for least money. I personally dont mind the colour levels either.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

DaveKS said:


> Also you’ll need some hose clamps for any barbed hose fitting. Trust me, you don’t want a hose popping off and pumping 75gal of water into your parents living room.
> 
> 1” should fit the outside diameter of most thinner walled 3/4” ID hose.
> 
> ...





Jamo33 said:


> I think you are getting off to a great start here. The most important thing right here that will help you, and all of us will say the same thing, is patience. Anytime you try to rush a tank, things go wrong.
> Take your time in the cycling process, this is the most important step of the set up, it is literally the life or death of your fish. Leave the neons be, if they are happy then dont risk them in the new tank until you are 100% sure.
> I will speak for the community here when I say this, we have all wished that we had slowed down and let things age and process properly at least once before, most likely more than once. The excitement of a new tank can overwhelm our ability to think clearly. So just take a moment at every step and think, is this truly the best decision? Good life advice as well.
> 
> Re lights. Beamswork will get you most light for least money. I personally dont mind the colour levels either.


Thank you for the advice. The neons are staying in the 10 gallon for a few months probably. When cycling time comes, I will put the gravel of the 10 gallon in a filter media bag and then move the cascade 200 to the 75 and put the gravel in the canister filter. I will also have tons of plants. Not sure if that will effect anything.

Bump: So here is the updated plan in 12 steps:

1. get the equipment(and substrate) and set it all up.
2. get the hardscape into position.
3. when ready, order plants on amazon and the day they come in go to Wet Spot Tropical fish for the plants.
4. the fun begins: aquascape
5. let the plants grow in. dose ferts. leave tank fishless*
6. wait till december.
7. after christmas get more neon tetras a few at a time and quarantine till i have 20-25 total.
8. honey gouramis a 2 at a time and quarantine.
9. wait a ~1 month to settle down into tank.
10. get honey gouramis 2 at a time and quarantine until I have a total of 6. 
11. when honey gouramis are situated and happy, its catfish time. get panda corys 3 at a time and quarantine until I have a total of ~10.
12. enjoy the tank for many years to come and impress all who come to my house.

*unless the neon tetras are ready to be added.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

DaveKS said:


> What about extra plumbing for canister tank return, you’ll need 2 of these plus spraybar it comes with along with plumping parts to build a manifold with 3 outputs to effectively cover a tank of that size. One spray bar isn’t even close to cutting it.


I just realized it comes with 2 spray bars. Could I not get that other output?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> I just realized it comes with 2 spray bars. Could I not get that other output?


Reworked, think this will work out good. Not quite proportional to your tank but gets you concept. Breaks circulation up into 3-200gph+ areas


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

DaveKS said:


> Reworked, think this will work out good. Not quite to proportional to your tank but gets you concept. Breaks circulation up into 3-200gph+ areas




How are you gonna get the spray bar to go sideways like that or is there something about the illustration I’m missing?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

varanidguy said:


> How are you gonna get the spray bar to go sideways like that or is there something about the illustration I’m missing?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Spraybar comes in two segments that you can turn in different directions.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Whoa did you make that diagram? Also, I don't want to disturb the surface to much because I don't dose co2 and would like to retain as much of it as possible for the plants. Unless the plants don't need that to happen.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Whoa did you make that diagram? Also, I don't want to disturb the surface to much because I don't dose co2 and would like to retain as much of it as possible for the plants. Unless the plants don't need that to happen.




Best to have a good amount of surface agitation. Without injection, you won’t have a significantly large amount of co2 in your water. Hell, I inject co2 and still use a surface skimmer.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Yep just have spraybar about 1”+-under surface just barely pointed up and it will make that nice rippling surface movement that gets you most CO2 and oxygen absorption into water.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> Whoa did you make that diagram? Also, I don't want to disturb the surface to much because I don't dose co2 and would like to retain as much of it as possible for the plants. Unless the plants don't need that to happen.


Yes, I work in printing/computer graphics so throwing together something like that pretty simple for me.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

DaveKS said:


> Yes, I work in printing/computer graphics so throwing together something like that pretty simple for me.


Nice. That is impressive.



DaveKS said:


> Yep just have spraybar about 1”+-under surface just barely pointed up and it will make that nice rippling surface movement that gets you most CO2 and oxygen absorption into water.


But I don't want the co2 escaping.


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## SpringHalo (Oct 13, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> But I don't want the co2 escaping.



See this article explaining why it's better to have surface agitation: https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/gas_exchange.html


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I don't really understand that article, but I think it means that surface agitation is necessary to let more co2 in? So the point is: Lots of surface agitation and everyone-the plants and the fish-are happy.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

The ripple effect at water surface actually increases the atmosphere/water surface contact area and making sure you have good, evenly distributed flow patterns with good high->low turnover insures that oxygen and CO2 will be at optimal level that can be obtained in your tank.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Okey dokey. 

Could you please answer this question?

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/120-aquascaping/1295187-flourish-glue-silicone.html


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

DaveKS said:


> The ripple effect at water surface actually increases the atmosphere/water surface contact area and making sure you have good, evenly distributed flow patterns with good high->low turnover insures that oxygen and CO2 will be at optimal level that can be obtained in your tank.


Just to expand on this: if you were gonna be injecting CO2 and had poor circulation & poor gaseous exchange, then the CO2 could build up to lethal levels and kill your fish. But you're going low tech & not using CO2, so you don't need to worry about CO2 buildup. 

But your fish, beneficial bacteria that process toxic ammonia & nitrates, and plants when the lights are off, all require oxygen. That's why good flow & surface exchange are equally important for maintaining oxygen levels.

As a newbie myself I know myself how confusing all this can get. And on this forum, most people are focused on plant growth and how to push that to the max, so it can be hard to keep everything else in perspective. 

Hope this helps


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

Desert Pupfish said:


> Just to expand on this: if you were gonna be injecting CO2 and had poor circulation & poor gaseous exchange, then the CO2 could build up to lethal levels and kill your fish. But you're going low tech & not using CO2, so you don't need to worry about CO2 buildup.
> 
> But your fish, beneficial bacteria that process toxic ammonia & nitrates, and plants when the lights are off, all require oxygen. That's why good flow & surface exchange are equally important for maintaining oxygen levels.
> 
> ...


Very well said. We need to remember that those new to aquariums may find these articles inaccessible because they haven't yet learned the vocabulary ( let alone how these processes work in an integrated fashion) an expert takes for granted knowing. Its worth remembering when helping beginners to explain in language that is aware of this learning curve.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you! That makes more sense. I have been having second thoughts about the Polar Aurora filter, and I need some recommendations and advice. I am looking primarily at the marnieland magniflow, the penn plax cascade 1500, the fluval 406, and the fluval fx4. Me and my dad really likes the fluval fx4. He said it seems like a reliable filter(and they are cool looking). He offered to pitch in for it, because it is super expensive. I don't know how much he will pitch in though.

I also need recommendations on aquascaping tools.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Would the fluval fx4 or fx6 be to much flow? Could I adjust the flow rate?


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> Would the fluval fx4 or fx6 be to much flow? Could I adjust the flow rate?


Flow can be adjusted yes, you see those red things where the hoses would attach to on top of the filter? Those are cut off valves, so essentially to throttle the filter back you could just turn them slightly to control flow.

Re aquascaping tools. You do not need the bees knees. Get a kit off amazon, probably ranging in the 25 dollar range, it will come with 3 scissors, two tweezers, scraper etc. Save your money where you can, when I was younger I had never even heard of 'aquascaping tools,' just a pair of scissors and my hands. 

I am sure someone has already said this somewhere in the thread, but your money should be aimed towards the important parts, the equipment. Everything that is life sustaining should be your main budget, the excess is precisely that...excess.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am getting a 12.99 aquascaping set. It comes with the basics and a storage bag. I might just get tweezers and scissors. I am still looking. Would you recommend the fluval fx4?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you! That makes more sense. I have been having second thoughts about the Polar Aurora filter, and I need some recommendations and advice. I am looking primarily at the marnieland magniflow, the penn plax cascade 1500, the fluval 406, and the fluval fx4. Me and my dad really likes the fluval fx4. He said it seems like a reliable filter(and they are cool looking). He offered to pitch in for it, because it is super expensive. I don't know how much he will pitch in though.
> 
> 
> 
> I also need recommendations on aquascaping tools.




If he’s going to help you with the cost, an FX4 would be nice.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

He will pay for half he said. I am going to do it.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Do I need more outputs for that 700 GPH filter? I need ideas for a DIY spraybar to. It doesn't come with one


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

You can build one long pipe that does spraybar and nozzles for top corners out of common plumbing supplies and a couple loc line nozzles if your handy with drill etc.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

DaveKS said:


> You can build one long pipe that does spraybar and nozzles for top corners out of common plumbing supplies and a couple loc line nozzles if your handy with drill etc.




I would do this, and worst case you can slightly close the output valve (NOT the intake!) to safely reduce flow without damaging the pump.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thanks guys. I went with the cascade 1200 instead. Most of the order should arrive monday and tuesday. A few less important things at the end of the month.

Bump: I just got back from Wet Spot. It was heaven on earth for me lol. I bought 3 large pieces of cork bark and 2 pretty red and white rocks. I did the traditional vinegar test on the rocks and to my horror when it touched a powdery white stuff on the rocks it fizzled.(Is that even a word?) Is this something to worry about? I have 2 rocks. Both fizzled. I can return if necessary. I will be doing 50% water changes every week.

That leads to a different question: Do tanks with just plants need water changes?


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thanks guys. I went with the cascade 1200 instead. Most of the order should arrive monday and tuesday. A few less important things at the end of the month.
> 
> Bump: I just got back from Wet Spot. It was heaven on earth for me lol<a href="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/images/smilie/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" ></a>. I bought 3 large pieces of cork bark and 2 pretty red and white rocks. I did the traditional vinegar test on the rocks and to my horror when it touched a powdery white stuff on the rocks it fizzled.(Is that even a word?) Is this something to worry about? I have 2 rocks. Both fizzled. I can return if necessary. I will be doing 50% water changes every week.
> 
> That leads to a different question: Do tanks with just plants need water changes?


Having a local store like that is truly extremely fortunate and rare I would say, so make the most of them. 

Re rocks. You said powdery white stuff, why is there powder? Wash the rocks, repeat test. 

Absolutely yes tanks with plants need water changes. Depending on the amount of fertilizers (if any) and stocking of the tank you can decide the percentage that needs changing each week. Higher stocking=higher nitrates and waste=larger water change.
Water changes are the life of your tank, they remove the bad and replace with nice and new. Put it this way, if you were in a room full of smoke and stepped outside to fresh air, that feeling to breath easy is what I would think fish feel with cleaner water.


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

If you bought cork bark to use inside your tank, be prepared for it to eventually break loose from silicone and to break down/disintegrate. It can take anywhere from a few months to a few years but it doesn't hold up well completely submerged.

Works well in vivariums, though, where it's not completely soaked 24/7.



aquanerd13 said:


> I bought 3 large pieces of cork bark


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thanks. I already know that cork bark doesn't last. @Jamo33, the tank would have just plants. If there were any nitrates, they would just eat them, correct?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Think of it this way:

All fish tanks are about balance. Planted fish tanks emphasize that balance (to prevent algae and whatnot). There are many people who claim to never do or claim that they seldom do water changes. Now, I’m not calling them liars, not by a long shot. But how many prominent breeders and producers of fish have you heard of that never do water changes? Now how many of those same people do you hear of doing frequent and large water changes? 

It’s possible to have a system that doesn’t require water changes but maybe a few times a year. However, it’s established best practice to do routine water changes and filter maintenance to keep your system healthy. I will never not do water changes.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok just wondering. I wanted to hold off on a bigger siphon, but I realized I would need to use the python to fill the tank up anyways unless I was to do it 1 gallon at a time lol.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok just wondering. I wanted to hold off on a bigger siphon, but I realized I would need to use the python to fill the tank up anyways unless I was to do it 1 gallon at a time lol.


That's definitely something you do not want to skimp on. A Python or something like it (Aqueon makes one, I think it's a little less expensive) should be at the top of your list.


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

While it only has plants, water changes probably aren't so important - although long term water changes replace trace nutrients that plants would eventually consume. But no, between the planting and introducing the first of the stock you don't need to worry - just check your water conditions before adding fish to make sure everything is as you expect!


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

As everyone has said mate, water changes create a healthier ecosystem. Think of the wild habitats, fish living in streams are in constantly moving and ever replenishing water, like an endless water change. We let them sit in this water for a bit longer and refresh as often as we need to keep the water in top quality. As for plants absorbing the nitrates, yes they will consume, but most likely over time the excess will compile and grow over time. So after 4 weeks without a water change, despite plant consumption you have 80+ppm nitrates and fish aren't happy. This is a very crude example and most likely not the case. But I feel it explains my point. 

Learn your tank, learn what it needs. Before you stock your tank, place the details into an online aquarium stocking calculator and see what you are at. 
I stocked a tank at 200% capacity at one point, despite being unfair to the fish (they were rehomed and the colony thinned out), it meant I was daily water changing on a massive tank. If you know your stocking and you know your weekly nitrates, you will be able to find a happy medium for your frequency and amount of water changes.

You are learning a whole heap in one go here and I applaud you for your ability to keep at it and asking the questions you need to.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

No no no. A tank with ONLY PLANTS. NO FISH. I know that water changes are important and I would do a 50% one every week once fully stocked with fish.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> No no no. A tank with ONLY PLANTS. NO FISH. I know that water changes are important and I would do a 50% one every week once fully stocked with fish.




Best to get into the habit of water changes from day one, but probably not as crucial. Unless you’re dirting or using aquasoil, then yeah you’ll need to do water changes regardless.


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> No no no. A tank with ONLY PLANTS. NO FISH. I know that water changes are important and I would do a 50% one every week once fully stocked with fish.


Apologies, misunderstood. Yeah still do water changes as said above.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok just wondering thanks. Half the amazon order will come in on Monday and the other half on Tuesday. Tuesday I am going to wet spot to get the plants! I am super excited. What are some good looking rocks that will not affect chemistry?


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok just wondering thanks. Half the amazon order will come in on Monday and the other half on Tuesday. Tuesday I am going to wet spot to get the plants! I am super excited. What are some good looking rocks that will not affect chemistry?


Truly stone is up to you. Have you looked at going to a rock pit/landscaping company. Black lava rock is a nice scaping rock. If you are determined to get rocks from wet spot, it's all about your taste of aquascaping.
Dragon/ohko, pagoda, zebra stone etc. There are so many options, but I would encourage you to use something like black lava rock, it's cheap if you can source it from a landscaping company, its porous so added space for BB and looks amazing when used well.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok just wondering thanks. Half the amazon order will come in on Monday and the other half on Tuesday. Tuesday I am going to wet spot to get the plants! I am super excited. What are some good looking rocks that will not affect chemistry?


 Congrats, looks like all is coming together. 
Very excited for you.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Jamo33 said:


> Truly stone is up to you. Have you looked at going to a rock pit/landscaping company. Black lava rock is a nice scaping rock. If you are determined to get rocks from wet spot, it's all about your taste of aquascaping.
> Dragon/ohko, pagoda, zebra stone etc. There are so many options, but I would encourage you to use something like black lava rock, it's cheap if you can source it from a landscaping company, its porous so added space for BB and looks amazing when used well.


I can't spend to much on rock, I have been soaking the rock in a pot. I will test ph and kh and gh today.




Discusluv said:


> Congrats, looks like all is coming together.
> Very excited for you.


Thank you! It is coming together well.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> I can't spend to much on rock, I have been soaking the rock in a pot. I will test ph and kh and gh today.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 So, what is the current list of what you have gotten to equip the tank? 

What plants decided on?
What fish?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Discusluv said:


> So, what is the current list of what you have gotten to equip the tank?
> 
> What plants decided on?
> What fish?


So the current list for equipment is:
Aqueon pro 300 watt
cascade 1200 and 200
other unknown brand of heater(200-250 watt I think. It's just a backup)
HTH PFS
3 moisture alarm
Marina floating thermometer
beamswork DA fspec 48" led light and beamswork timer.
Persuper aquascaping tool set

Thats it for the main stuff.

As for plants:
brazilia pennywort
temple plant
anubias barteri
duckweed
java fern

And then fish:

8 honey gouramis
15 leopord corydoras
Then either 20 neon tetras, 20 cardinal tetras, or 10 of each.

I prefer cardinal tetras but already have neon tetras. I will see if I can trade them in for cardinal tetras. I don't want to risk neon tetra disease.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> So the current list for equipment is:
> 
> Aqueon pro 300 watt
> 
> ...




Since you’re using a canister, why not opt for an in-line heater? They’re the same price and you get more even heat distribution plus no equipment in the tank.


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> I can't spend to much on rock, I have been soaking the rock in a pot. I will test ph and kh and gh today.


Exactly, you could get a whole heap of black lava rock if you can find it at a not aquarium store. Whilst we love our fancy rocks in our aquariums, we tend to pay a premium for them at fish stores. I think it will be the cheapest way to get the most rock for your tank and with a 75, j think you want a decent amount.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> So the current list for equipment is:
> Aqueon pro 300 watt
> cascade 1200 and 200
> other unknown brand of heater(200-250 watt I think. It's just a backup)
> ...


 That will make a great set-up!
They may allow you to trade the neons for cardinals. Its also good that you are not getting the dwarf gourami and chose the honey gourami instead- such issues with iridrovirus in them. Just not worth it.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Jamo33 said:


> Exactly, you could get a whole heap of black lava rock if you can find it at a not aquarium store. Whilst we love our fancy rocks in our aquariums, we tend to pay a premium for them at fish stores. I think it will be the cheapest way to get the most rock for your tank and with a 75, j think you want a decent amount.


I actually only wanted 2 large rocks, but if i can get a heap for cheap I would use more. Thanks.



Discusluv said:


> That will make a great set-up!
> They may allow you to trade the neons for cardinals. Its also good that you are not getting the dwarf gourami and chose the honey gourami instead- such issues with iridrovirus in them. Just not worth it.


Exactly why I opted for honey gouramis and not dwarfs. It really is a shame that such a beautiful fish can't be kept because of risks like that.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am honestly still debating what style to do my tank. I am thinking a sort of dutch-ish aquarium. Temple plants and brazilia pennywort on the back wall(not the right side. It is next to a walkway). Actually I do know what I want. The 2 plants stated above forming a wall in the back, I have 3 pieces of cork bark. I could pick up some natural wall rock for 10 cents a pound. I prefer the red and white rocks though. Would lava rock hurt my corys' barbels?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Man not duckweed, that’s the herpes of floating plants.
>


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

DaveKS said:


> Man not duckweed, that’s the herpes of floating plants.
> 
> >




Hahaha that’s what people say! But it didn’t stick around for me. [emoji29]


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

And it's something that a new hobbyist definitely benefits from if/when something goes wrong with organics in the tank. There are other floating plants, obviously, but duckweed can be a benefit.



DaveKS said:


> Man not duckweed, that’s the herpes of floating plants.
> >


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So is duckweed good?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I just realized the cascade 1200 has a 30" spray bar. Will I need the other outputs still?


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

All floating plants serve a purpose. 

Some don't like Duckweed because it grows quickly. But that doesn't mean it's not fine in a planted tank.

Floating plants help suck up excess nutrients, can help if your lighting is too strong, allow fish and shrimp to hide. I have them in all of my tanks - especially those with shrimp.

You're already putting in a ton of effort but highly recommend you read a bit more about things like floating plants, filtration, everything. Take it slowly. Just scroll through some similar tank journals and see what others are doing. 



aquanerd13 said:


> So is duckweed good?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I would like to have duckweed especially for the honey gouramis.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well I just looked on the Wet Spot website and guess what? The 2 most important plants I need are not on the website anymore!! They must have run out. I will check tomorrow again when I go there. I was able to find pennywort on amazon for a pretty good deal, but temple is hard to find. Any good substitutes? Hardy low light low tech no supplemental co2 and bushy background plants is what I need.


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Everyone should remember that vendor reviews are not permitted on the forum.

And if anyone is looking for plants? Start in the For Sale section right here on the forum where you can buy directly from other members.

OP: Definitely check the For Sale section. And if you don't find what you're looking for by searching? Post a Want To Buy thread in the Want To Buy section. You'll likely spend quite a bit less than you would on Amazon or at any other retailer while simultaneously getting healthier plants.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I really like the looks of the aquarium plants factory. I am sadly unable to get plants of the forum though

Bump: I am almost done rinsing the sand! The light, filter, other stuff comes in today!!!!!

Bump: Does anybody have plant recommendations for the background? Vals need co2 and high light. Swords need nutrient rich substrate and high light.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Also, can you plant anubias in the substrate? I know to not bury the rhizome.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

aquanerd13 said:


> Bump: Does anybody have plant recommendations for the background? Vals need co2 and high light. Swords need nutrient rich substrate and high light.


 I spray paint the backs of my tanks with black krylon fusion spray paint. Comes off with a razor blade (or fingernail really) if you change your mind later.
I have had great luck with Vals in low tech. Swords as well. 



aquanerd13 said:


> Also, can you plant anubias in the substrate? I know to not bury the rhizome.


You "can" but bear in mind there isn't much of a root structure to keep them anchored in one place. They're likely to float up every time you gravel vac near them. Tying/gluing to driftwood or even a rock is ideal for that reason.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thanks. Just wondering. So vals in sand with no supplemented co2 and just seachem flourish will thrive? I could do root tabs for amazon swords.

Bump: I like the bleheris. I will get 3 of them. Each should come with 8+ leaves.

Bump: What are some really good root tabs for amazon swords?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Is nymphaea rubra any good? I could buy some bulbs for a good deal.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

I'm unaware if there's a big difference in quality from one brand of root tabs to the next. I've used API's most recently. Not sure they will be needed though they would probably provide benefit to your sword. I kept one in a 125 with just plain old Flourite gravel, used dry ferts and it all but outgrew the tank. May not have been Echinodorus bleheri in retrospect though and I can't find a photo. A lot of plants get sold under the umbrella name "Amazon Sword."

And I think dwarf lilies (N. rubra) are a great beginner plant.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. I think the splash of red plant color would be good for the aquascape.

Bump: I am thinking seachem flourish liquid ferts and API root tabs. API is only macros, seachem is mostly micros.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Also, how should I slope the tank? To the side?
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&sou...aw3lgxlUzmsjDediWxoCBuN3&ust=1565212331013305

Or to the front?

And how important is the rule of thirds in a more jungly-style aquascape?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Aponogeton are big showy plants that work great in your size tank. Almost fool proof to grow for most varieties.

Ulvaceus will easily push 17” wide and tall, stunning lime green color. Fish love playing and swimming through those big ruffled leaves.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

Some plants that have done well for me with low tech, inert substrate with root tabs and liquid fert feeding have been:
Background Plants:
Swords ( bleheri get very large; I would only get 1 for a 75 gallon and get some of the smaller growing varieties if want two more.). 
Crypt spiralis ( a great option for low-tech). 
Nymphoides hydrophila "Taiwan" 
Ambula
Valisneria

To attach to driftwood/ glue to rock
Buce
anubias
java fern
java moss

medium to foreground plants
water wisteria
crypts
microswords
Helanthium Quadricostatus

Here is a good article for plant selection for low-tech plants. It includes some that I dont list.

https://www.advancedplantedtank.com/101-lowtech.html


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

What is the scientific name?

Bump: Of the curly leaf plant?

Bump: Of the curly leaf plant?

Bump:


Discusluv said:


> Some plants that have done well for me with low tech, inert substrate with root tabs and liquid fert feeding have been:
> Background Plants:
> Swords ( bleheri get very large; I would only get 1 for a 75 gallon and get some of the smaller growing varieties if want two more.).
> Crypt spiralis ( a great option for low-tech).
> ...


The swords are on a sale and are buy 2 get 1 free. Only 9 bucks for an 8+ leaf sword. Should I really turn down this deal?

Bump: Do vals need root tabs?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I like the corscrew vals. Are those any good?

Bump: Wet spot is sellin bleheri 'compacts' for 5 dollars. Have you heard of those?


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> What is the scientific name?
> 
> Bump: Of the curly leaf plant?
> 
> ...


 You can get them if you want. It will take awhile before take over large portion of tank. You can also periodically take off baby plants that grow and get rid of mother plant when get too large. 

I use root tabs with all my stem plants. But, I dose lightly ( relative to many others) in water column. I find when I use root tabs routinely I get far better growth than when I just do liquid dosing by instructions on back of my Seachem ferts.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thank you Amy(Is that you name? I can't remember).


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok thank you Amy(Is that you name? I can't remember).


Yes, you remembered correctly


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Oh good. I have to many latin fish and plant names in my head right now and WAY to many ideas.

Bump: Do you think I should slope the substrate to left to right or back to front? I like the idea of left to right and have the vals on the far right and some anubias and buce semi-emersed on the left.

Bump: How much water does 100 pounds of sand displace?

Bump: But if I sloped the sand to the side steeply there would be enough sand to create bad gas deposits.(Sorry. I am thinking out loud).

Bump: Unless I used paving stones to create a hill on the side and cover it in sand.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Try to keep pool sand no thicker than around 2” max, if you need to do a build up use something like safetsorb or small lavarock covered with mesh or in a mesh bag.


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## Shrubbery (Jul 1, 2019)

[Edit... huh... apparently responded to the wrong post. Was trying to respond to the good plants that work in low tech!]

I have also had success in low-tech with:

Crytocoryne undulata 'red'
Bacopa Caroliniana
Heteranthera zosterifolia

And, for moss, I've had luck with Vesicularia dubyana ('Christmas') - it grows slowly, but is shockingly healthy.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

What do yall think?!?! I am ready to glue cork bark in place. I will put an amazon sword in the space between them and anubias on the bark and rocks. I am thinking corkscrew vals in the back left. The other 2 amazon swords in the back middle perhaps? I purposely am putting all the open space in the front for the corys so the esxtra food etc. will roll to the front where they can eat it.


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## aquaoz (Jul 17, 2019)

Shoot us a few more photos of hardscape. Bit hard to get full understanding with just one pic :nerd:


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I will tomorrow GTG to bed


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Okay here's some more pics.

Bump: Don't mind the gloves lol.

Bump: I am thinking a corkscrew val forest in the rear left. A large amazon sword in between the two cork bark pieces. I have an additional smaller piece of driftwood with an anubias that I may put in there too. I have a small ceramic log that also has an anubias. Not sure where to put it yet. And then an additional anubias to put on the cork bark. Will aqueon silicone sealant work for securing anubias and buce to hardscape?


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Okay here's some more pics.
> 
> Bump: Don't mind the gloves lol.
> 
> Bump: I am thinking a corkscrew val forest in the rear left. A large amazon sword in between the two cork bark pieces. I have an additional smaller piece of driftwood with an anubias that I may put in there too. I have a small ceramic log that also has an anubias. Not sure where to put it yet. And then an additional anubias to put on the cork bark. Will aqueon silicone sealant work for securing anubias and buce to hardscape?


 Excellent! Will look even better when get those plants in. The PFS looks really nice. 

I dont think the silicone sealant would work to secure plants- best to use the glue or some kind of tie.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you! I just added silicone to the rhizome of the anubias and am dry starting it.(To let the silicone seal). If all else fails I will go the dollar tree and get super glue gel. Not bad for my first aquascape if I do say so myself.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you! I just added silicone to the rhizome of the anubias and am dry starting it.(To let the silicone seal). If all else fails I will go the dollar tree and get super glue gel. Not bad for my first aquascape if I do say so myself.


Leaps and bounds better than my first tank. And* way* better than I ever :smile2:could have done at 13 years old. You should be very proud of yourself.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. I am very proud. My parents(especially my dad) are thoroughly impressed.

Bump: My mom doesn't have an eye for that stuff. She just says 'cool. it looks like a fish tank'.

Bump: Oh and also @somewhatshocked said to not add expensive plants like buce and swords to an immature tank. I was hoping to add swords. Whould that be all right? I don't want them to die.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Starting to fill the tank! I have 3 anubias attached to the bark.


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

Having just set up a new planted tank, my advice would be to prioritize cheap, fast growing plants that can better outcompete the algae that you're likely to have while the tank cycles & stabilizes. I got lots of algae on my java fern, and I'd imagine other slow growers like anubias & buces could have the same problem. You can always cut back or remove the starter plants to make room for slower growing & more expensive plants later on. 

My only other piece of advice would be to start low & slow on the lights--also to avoid algae issues. Maybe 5 or so hrs/day to start--others with more experience may want to chime in on how long is optimal to start. I started at 8 hrs/day--thinking it would help the plants get established. What got established was lots & lots of algae instead.....

Good luck!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok I will definitely reduce my lighting time. Would corkscrew vals be good first plants? What about amazon swords? I will definitely add the duckweed first.


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok I will definitely reduce my lighting time. Would corkscrew vals be good first plants? What about amazon swords? I will definitely add the duckweed first.


As a planted tank newbie myself, I can only speak to what's worked well for me. Haven't tried corkscrew vals, but my jungle val has taken off and has leaves across the top of the tank. Definitely an easy plant for me. I've got an "Aflame" sword that's doing well and putting out new red leaves, so that's another easy one. 

As others have pointed out, be careful with the duckweed--that stuff can easily take over if you're not careful. And don't let it get into your other tanks--all it takes is a tiny bit from a net, water siphon, whatever to infest another tank with the stuff......


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Desert Pupfish said:


> As a planted tank newbie myself, I can only speak to what's worked well for me. Haven't tried corkscrew vals, but my jungle val has taken off and has leaves across the top of the tank. Definitely an easy plant for me. I've got an "Aflame" sword that's doing well and putting out new red leaves, so that's another easy one.
> 
> As others have pointed out, be careful with the duckweed--that stuff can easily take over if you're not careful. And don't let it get into your other tanks--all it takes is a tiny bit from a net, water siphon, whatever to infest another tank with the stuff......


So swords are okay to put in a new tank? I am about to place an order. I need answers ASAP.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I guess the silicone wasn't enough because the cork bark is now floating in the tank. How do I solve this? I already have anubias superglued to them.


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## aquaoz (Jul 17, 2019)

Possibly some coral/reef glue?


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> So swords are okay to put in a new tank? I am about to place an order. I need answers ASAP.


I'd say so--most swords do pretty well in low tech tanks. I just wouldn't spend a lot of money on a really big or fancy one to start with if it were me......


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Only way I’ve found to use cork like that is to epoxy glue big slate or stones on bottom as weight, let glue cure completely then completely water log it by putting it in bucket and slowly raising water level in bucket so air can evacuate through pores of cork as you slowly raise water level in bucket, takes about a week. You’ll be there for months trying to get it to sink if you completely dunk it in water and seal all that air inside the pore structure of the cork. There’s a reason why they use cork as a float. As you have seen it can exert a considerable lift force underwater, enough to rip silicone right off the glass.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you @Desert Pupfish. @DaveKS, I had a brilliant idea. I wedges them between the lip on the top of the tank rim and the substrate. They can't go anywhere and I can easily change the hardscape around.


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Nah. Said not to add plants that are on the expensive side unless you're sure your tank won't melt them or burn them up. Didn't mean to confuse you. 

It's just that if you have high ammonia concentrations (which we sometimes do when initially cycling tanks), you run the risk of burning some plants - even if you're an experienced aquarist. As long as you aren't absolutely flooding the tank with ammonia, I think you'll be fine. 

Just don't get disappointed if something melts because it'll likely grow back for you.



aquanerd13 said:


> Bump: Oh and also @somewhatshocked said to not add expensive plants like buce and swords to an immature tank. I was hoping to add swords. Whould that be all right? I don't want them to die.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

The tank has water!!! I have 3 amazon swords and 1 nymphea rubra on the way. I had a heck of a time priming the filter then did it the old fashioned way. By mouth. I got some tank water in my mouth lol. I am super excited. I will post pics soon. I had to move the cork bark and the heater.


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

If you end up having to remove the cork from your tank entirely, you could probably use it around your tank to mount something like common air plants or a cool orchid. That is - if you're interested in that sort of thing. 

Do you plan to add a background to the tank?

Looking forward to see how things look now that you've got it filled up.



aquanerd13 said:


> I had to move the cork bark and the heater.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

It is a bit murky from the sand and the light is off. It may be hard to see. Sorry.

Bump: No, I am going without a background.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> It is a bit murky from the sand and the light is off. It may be hard to see. Sorry.
> 
> Bump: No, I am going without a background.


 Very nice-- look at that!
That cork bark looks so cool!:thumbsup::icon_cool


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you! I really like the anubias on the bark.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Tomorrow it will hopefully clear up. Then planting time!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Bad news:

My mom already hates the tank. She said it is distracting me from anything else. Keeping it going will be hard enough. Getting more tanks will be nearly impossible(even in my bedroom it looks like).

Bump: One of the first things she said when my dad got home from work today:'Anthony has been obsessed with that stupid tank and won't do anything else'.

Bump: We have this huge party happening on Saturday(boooo I hate lot's of people) and we need to do all our chores really well. I already did but my brothers are slacking and I am paying for it.


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

Heh. Parents. But speaking as a 3rd party outsider with no skin on the matter, just by gauging your posts and threads, you do seem to be going through the initial obsession phase. I see you flitting all over my timelines. We all probably did it at varying degrees when we first joined or discovered the hobby so I'm not criticizing. Glad to have you around, but your mom has a point. Just reminding you that there IS a life away from this forum and this hobby. Don't forget to live it too!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

ipkiss said:


> Heh. Parents. But speaking as a 3rd party outsider with no skin on the matter, just by gauging your posts and threads, you do seem to be going through the initial obsession phase. I see you flitting all over my timelines. We all probably did it at varying degrees when we first joined or discovered the hobby so I'm not criticizing. Glad to have you around, but your mom has a point. Just reminding you that there IS a life away from this forum and this hobby. Don't forget to live it too!


Ohhh yes I know. She does have a point. And I do have a life outside this forum and the hobby: FORTNITE!! Just kidding. I don't play that game to often. And I really truly do have a life outside the hobby. I have lot's of friends, lots of wins in Fortnite(kidding again. I suck at it), my friends are all busy though and I know I spend more time on this forum than I really should. Sigh. I also have a lot of time on my hands this summer. And I am obsessed with the hobby. Just wait till the MTS gets really bad. That will be insane. I have good grades, good friends, I like to catch fish, keep fish, eat fish,(weird combo). And paint pictures of fish occasionally. And camp and hike. And read.

Bump: This forum is a way for me to......decompress I guess. Talk to people who share my interest in fishkeeping. A place to get away from my brothers.

Bump: And I have to think about my future. Just under 5 years till I am officially an adult. I will need to get a job in the next couple years. It's scary.


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## sittinglynx (Feb 18, 2019)

_"Bad news:

My mom already hates the tank. She said it is distracting me from anything else. Keeping it going will be hard enough. Getting more tanks will be nearly impossible(even in my bedroom it looks like).

Bump: One of the first things she said when my dad got home from work today:'Anthony has been obsessed with that stupid tank and won't do anything else'."_

Hey, just a shot in the dark, but, is your mom into gardening? If so, there's nothing better to water the plants with than nitrate rich aquarium water. I water my hanging porch plants and my veggie garden out back with my 5 gallon water jugs that I use to change the water with. Maybe if you show an interest in her plants, she might warm up to your new hobby.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Speaking as a parent, it can be very concerning when your child is consumed by something to the point of obsession.

It's going to be a while still until the tank is ready for fish and whatnot, you are at the hurry up and wait period. To curb her frustration, going 2-3 days without really messing with it or spending a whole lot of time on it can really go a long way in helping her with her negative perception regarding this tank.

Trust me, it's not going anywhere, and it's better to just wait out the cycle anyway.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

varanidguy said:


> Speaking as a parent, it can be very concerning when your child is consumed by something to the point of obsession.
> 
> It's going to be a while still until the tank is ready for fish and whatnot, you are at the hurry up and wait period. To curb her frustration, going 2-3 days without really messing with it or spending a whole lot of time on it can really go a long way in helping her with her negative perception regarding this tank.
> 
> Trust me, it's not going anywhere, and it's better to just wait out the cycle anyway.


Right now I am playing the waiting game. After I get all the plants I will have to go 6 months without fish. We are leaving for 2 weeks in December and I need to start saving anyways. The only thing I will be doing with the tank then is fertilizing, trimming, very little maintenance. And at least I am not obsessing over video games. I don't really think I am obsessing over this tank. I did 8 hours of setup and then I am done.



sittinglynx said:


> _"Bad news:
> 
> My mom already hates the tank. She said it is distracting me from anything else. Keeping it going will be hard enough. Getting more tanks will be nearly impossible(even in my bedroom it looks like).
> 
> ...


Sort of. I water some of her plants occasionally. I will start doing it more though. The problem is that I do water changes mid day or evening and her plants might get burned. That would certainly not help anything.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Right now I am playing the waiting game. After I get all the plants I will have to go 6 months without fish. We are leaving for 2 weeks in December and I need to start saving anyways. The only thing I will be doing with the tank then is fertilizing, trimming, very little maintenance. And at least I am not obsessing over video games. I don't really think I am obsessing over this tank. I did 8 hours of setup and then I am done.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




8 hours of set up, how many hours on forums, reading articles, watching YouTube videos, etc? Parents notice that kind of stuff. I know it sucks.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ummmmmmmmm. Hundreds. My dad actually thinks it is good(hes is PROUD of it lol). They both like that I like to do my research. Thoroughly. But I think that is ending. My dad wants me to get fish in the tank ASAP. I want to wait. My mom doesn't care. I am about done with the research for this tank though. But then there is the next tank.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ummmmmmmmm. Hundreds. My dad actually thinks it is good(hes is PROUD of it lol). They both like that I like to do my research. Thoroughly. But I think that is ending. My dad wants me to get fish in the tank ASAP. I want to wait. My mom doesn't care. I am about done with the research for this tank though. But then there is the next tank.




Not to sound too much like a “boomer”, but there’s an old saying that goes something like “my perception is my reality.” Unfortunately sometimes parental units perceive things differently. If your mom views something as obsessive, it may be a good idea to tone it down, temporarily, to show her that it’s just a passion and it can be controlled. 


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Okay. I am leaving for a week in a week from tomorrow with the rest of my family and my grandparents. I will not take any books about fish. Or my laptop. I will do nothing that involves fish.(other than catch and eat them).


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Okay. I am leaving for a week in a week from tomorrow with the rest of my family and my grandparents. I will not take any books about fish. Or my laptop. I will do nothing that involves fish.(other than catch and eat them).




Perfect! I look forward to your progress with this tank. I’m sure it’ll be beautiful.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. I really like the cork wall + little caves on the left side.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you. I really like the cork wall + little caves on the left side.




Me too. I just hope the cork lasts.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

It may or may not.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, I am more likely than not going to sell or trade in my neon tetras for some other sort of tetra. I want to get at least 9 more tetras and I do not want to get neon tetras. To much potential for neon tetra disease. Any recommendations?

(I may or may not keep these tetras and get 10 other tetras in addition.)


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Well, I am more likely than not going to sell or trade in my neon tetras for some other sort of tetra. I want to get at least 9 more tetras and I do not want to get neon tetras. To much potential for neon tetra disease. Any recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> (I may or may not keep these tetras and get 10 other tetras in addition.)




What colors do you like? They for your 75? I think the good old classics of serpaes and black neons are underrated. Serpaes can get nippy with longer finned or delicate fish, but they do well in most community settings. I don’t have any serpaes but do have black neons and their beauty always draws my eye.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Thinking your going to get neon tetra disease is kind of a self defeating attitude isn’t it? Just make sure their healthy looking and vibrant acting in behavior when you buy them. You could get any number of parasite or infections from any fish you bring fish home. 

You really need to let your new tank mature a month or 2 before you add any tetra.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

varanidguy said:


> What colors do you like? They for your 75? I think the good old classics of serpaes and black neons are underrated. Serpaes can get nippy with longer finned or delicate fish, but they do well in most community settings. I don’t have any serpaes but do have black neons and their beauty always draws my eye.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes they are for the 75. I already will have sunset honey gouramis so there is plenty of orange/yellow. I will also have reticulated julli corys so they are tank. I guess neon tetras would work really well.



DaveKS said:


> Thinking your going to get neon tetra disease is kind of a self defeating attitude isn’t it? Just make sure their healthy looking and vibrant acting in behavior when you buy them. You could get any number of parasite or infections from any fish you bring fish home.
> 
> You really need to let your new tank mature a month or 2 before you add any tetra.


Oh. They would be the first fish I would add. I would take some of thier gravel and put it in media bags which would go in the canister filter. I woulld also take their HOB filter and put it on the tank. I could also do daily water changes. Should I add reticulated julli corys first?


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

I wouldn't add any fish at all until the tank itself can process a fixed amount of ammonia (maybe 3-4PPM) in a 24-hour period. And even then, I'd wait until the tank is probably 4-5 weeks old at minimum - with daily ammonia dosing - to make sure everything is mature, there's plenty of biofilm, you know there's stability.

You _could_ add fish sooner. Lots of people do. It's just my opinion that it's better overall for your fish if you wait until they've got a well-established home to move into.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

My dad is very eager to have fish in there. We already ordered media bags for the gravel. I need to put fish in next weekend. I don't want to but I don't really have a choice. I will just test every day.

Bump: Also, how long should I QT new neon tetras? 2 months?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> My dad is very eager to have fish in there. We already ordered media bags for the gravel. I need to put fish in next weekend. I don't want to but I don't really have a choice. I will just test every day.
> 
> Bump: Also, how long should I QT new neon tetras? 2 months?


I do two weeks unless there's a particular issue that's visible or I need to grow out. First week I use the "med trio" that the Co-Op recommends (EM Erythromycin, General Cure, Ich-X) while letting them fast. Then I do a 50%, or more, water change, then feed them daily and observe the second week. If no issues appear and I'm happy with the condition of the fish, I add them. Have had really good luck doing it this way.


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> My dad is very eager to have fish in there. We already ordered media bags for the gravel. I need to put fish in next weekend. I don't want to but I don't really have a choice. I will just test every day.
> 
> Bump: Also, how long should I QT new neon tetras? 2 months?


Okay this will sound somewhat blunt, but I am by no means trying to be rude or insulting. 
Regardless of what your dad says, fish should not be going in that tank yet. It seems strange to me that there is such an insistence of stocking the tank. Have you said to your Dad that the safety of the fish is radically reduced if you put them in now? It just all seems so rushed and although I really want everything to go great for you. I cannot see it going well if fish are in that tank in two weeks. 
I understand that you are transferring old gravel etc as a boost for your bacteria, but I cannot help but be sceptical of its impact in a volume of water so much larger than it currently is in.

Cliff note: this is not a race, and tanks need time to develop.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok i will talk to him. Could an amazon sword be unplanted for 2 weeks? Just wondering.


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## sittinglynx (Feb 18, 2019)

I have a Tetra Tank. My 1st addition was a school of Priscilla Tetras & they have cool yellow and black in their fins. From my research, they seemed to be one of the more hardy breeds, if my memory serves, they stand a more higher PH & Temp range than Neons. My 2nd school (Red Eyes) caught month fungus, but it didn't phase the Priscillas at all during tank treatment; they all remained healthy as the Red Eyes struggled. Even so, I waited a month before adding them. Doing 50% water changes frequently on a 75 gallon tank is a lot of water, so I'd wait for your tank to cycle. Also, I recall you posting you are on a budget; Remember, treating a 75 gallon tank costs good money, so slow & steady wins the race here. Treating my 55 gallon tank for fungus infection was nearly $50. With that said, I guess Neons are cheaper and easier to find if you had to replace them, but they're also a bugger to catch to put into a treatment tank, lol!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Does anyone recommend harlequin rasboras? Would cherry barbs work for this tank? Cherry barbs?

Bump: Lemon tetras?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Also how much ammonia should I add and how often?

Bump: Can I cycle the tank with amazon swords, anubias, nympeha rubra, duckweed, and corkscrew vals?


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

Generally speaking, 3-4 drops of pure ammonia to each 5 gallons of water will get you showing on a test kit. Test every few days and when nearing 0, add more until you are showing 3-4 PPM as needed. The amount required will depend on the concentration of ammonia, but that should get you close.

Plants can be in the tank when you cycle. They will uptake some of the ammonia you are adding, though.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Also how much ammonia should I add and how often?
> 
> Bump: Can I cycle the tank with amazon swords, anubias, nympeha rubra, duckweed, and corkscrew vals?


IMO, it's always best to cycle the tank fully planted (or as planted as you can afford).


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok. 30 drops every day and test until I get 4 ppm then continue dosing until I add fish. I am seriously considering cherry barbs. I love their red color. For a while they will be in addition to the neon tetras. I hope that doesn't look odd. I may get some female dwarf cichlids to eventually.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Rasboras Het, Lemon tetra and gold/brass tetra are probably all good choices as starter fish for a fish in cycle. Start with 6 fish because they feel more comfortable in groups but not so many that they will overwhelm your tanks immature system. 

Also acclimate them very well to new tank water, both for temp as well as swapping out bit (10%) of water in their bag every 15min for about a hour (or longer) to avoid PH and osmotic shock (do not dump water from bag into your tank) as well as killing light. Remove as many possible stressors to fish as possible bringing them into a new, unseasoned tank. Also get those swords planted and in place ASAP so that new fish will have a bit more cover.

Also if your going to go fish in cycle pick you up 5-6 frogbit or other true floating plants. And realize that going fish in on cycling it is going to take probably double the time to break this tank in vs fish less cycle. Plan on 6wks before you can safely start to add more fish.

You might also consider some safe start plus, was actually quite impressed with this product. Never thought much of old bacteria starters in past but will say this is a good product.









If I was in your situation I would also be bringing the filter pads over from that 5gals filter and cleaning them in your new tank water a couple times to seed it.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok. BTW it is 10 gallons not 5. I decided to just go with more neon tetras but I will QT the new ones for a long period to ensure no diseases or worms etc. I am definitely doing a fishless cycle. My mom said she will pick up ammonia next time she goes shopping.

Bump: Will nymphea rubra survive the cycle? I don't know tons about this plant.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Does nymphea rubra need root tabs or would seachem flourish suffice?


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## Jamo33 (Feb 18, 2014)

aquanerd13 said:


> My mom said she will pick up ammonia next time she goes shopping.


Specifically no scent and when you shake the bottle it should not froth up. Janitor grade ammonia from ace hardware is okay to use.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you for the reminder. I told her to get pure ammonia. No added cleaning solutions/detergents.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So how should the plants be arranged? I want a forest of corkscrew val. I am starting with 2 bundles. I have 3 amazon swords coming in. I need to use at least 2 of them. The other could go in my 10 gallon for now. I also have the nymphea rubra. I am thinking of putting the 'jungle' part (the vals) on the right of the intake tube. The forest could end at the back of that rock. An amazon sword in front of the heater would be good. The nymphea rubra in between the 2 rocks perhaps?

Bump: The other sword(s) against the cork bark perhaps?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I have a good/bad news mix. The good news is: The amazon swords came in today and instead of 3 individual plants I got 3 bundles, each consisting of 4 plants. The bad news is: My nymphea rubra hasn't come in yet but it says it did and I have 12 amazon swords on my hands.

The scape looks really good though. I am going to not do the vals. I will still get duckweed though. When it gows in I will have to do a heck of a lot of trimming. I may get rid of/sell some plants. It will sure be dense. I still don't need root tabs, do I?

Bump: 3 of the swords are in my 10 gallon right now.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, what do yall think? Get rid of some amazon swords, or keep it? I ma not sure yet. If I need to get rid of them it needs to be done before they establish a huge root system.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am going to wetspot tonight so i need to know what I should do plantwise ASAP. I will get duckweed for sure. Don't vals need hard alkaline water? Should I get rid of some amazon swords and get something else instead? I am getting the nymphea rubra next week.


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

I have read vals prefer harder water, never tried them though. You could see if you could trade in some of the swords, they will get nice and big! 

You could see if Wetspot has salvinia minima - it fulfills the same function as duckweed but it's much easier to pull out when it spreads too much.

Why no root tabs? Unless I missed something, you're just using inert sand, yes? Your swords will be okay without but mine grow much better when I give them tabs.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I will give them tabs. I need them for the rubra anyways. Yes wetspot has salvinia to. Thanks for the tip!!


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

I think your swords will look great and very jungle like just as they are once they fill in. I would only add something like some ambulia along back edges and back right corner for some taller stems. Your lily bulb when it comes in going in front that stone on left.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok I will do thank thx.


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Well? What kinda goodies did you get last night?!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well wet spot closes at six on tuesdays and my dad got home at 6 because he thought it was wensday so we were unable to go to wetspot last night. Oh well


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Any new growth on swords?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Yes actually. They have gotten taller and I think i few new leaves. The nymphea rubra grew like 2 inches in the week I was gone. And without root tabs lol!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well I have FINALLY decided to just forget about neon tetras as long-term candidates for the 75 gallon tank. I don't want to have to worry about neon tetra disease. I have been thinking of getting black neon tetras instead.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Well I have FINALLY decided to just forget about neon tetras as long-term candidates for the 75 gallon tank. I don't want to have to worry about neon tetra disease. I have been thinking of getting black neon tetras instead.




In a 75, emperor tetras would look amazing if you’re wanting to do South American fish.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Oh thank you I forgot about those. I will look into them to.

Bump: So the tank has just started cycling. When it is done, should I put the neons in there, or leave them in the 10 gallon tank(They have fin rot bad)? Or just the ones that look okay? I could also add some reticulated julii corys first? Maybe 5? A few Honey Gouramis?


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Oh thank you I forgot about those. I will look into them to.
> 
> Bump: So the tank has just started cycling. When it is done, should I put the neons in there, or leave them in the 10 gallon tank(They have fin rot bad)? Or just the ones that look okay? I could also add some reticulated julii corys first? Maybe 5? A few Honey Gouramis?


I gave you instructions on neons in other thread.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Oh thank you I forgot about those. I will look into them to.
> 
> Bump: So the tank has just started cycling. When it is done, should I put the neons in there, or leave them in the 10 gallon tank(They have fin rot bad)? Or just the ones that look okay? I could also add some reticulated julii corys first? Maybe 5? A few Honey Gouramis?



Do not introduce known diseases fish to your main display tank. Not worth the risk.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Oh thank you I forgot about those. I will look into them to.
> 
> Bump: So the tank has just started cycling. When it is done, should I put the neons in there, or leave them in the 10 gallon tank(They have fin rot bad)? Or just the ones that look okay? I could also add some reticulated julii corys first? Maybe 5? A few Honey Gouramis?


What is your intended stock list now?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

The intended stock list is:

15 reticulated julii corys
8 honey gouramis
20 emperor tetras

eventually no neons.(I will sell the remaining once fin rot has passed, if any remain.)

Plants:

1 nymphea rubra
12 echinodorus bleheri
4 anubias
salviania minima


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> The intended stock list is:
> 
> 15 reticulated julii corys
> 8 honey gouramis
> ...


I would wait to put the corydoras in last. Corydoras tend to be much more sensitive to acclimation into newly cycled tanks. I would introduce the Emperor's, then the gourami's, then the corydoras.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thank you I will do that. If the neons recover they will actually be introduced first, the emperors. Eventually get rid of neons hopefully.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

What would be a good low cost surface skimmer for this tank? I have this annoying oily film(probably from the filter) and whenever I remove it with paper towels it comes back in 10 minutes.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> What would be a good low cost surface skimmer for this tank? I have this annoying oily film(probably from the filter) and whenever I remove it with paper towels it comes back in 10 minutes.


That will go away when your tank comes into balance. Ive never needed a surface skimmer for a freshwater aquarium that has an established bio-filter.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Okay. I think it is from the grease used in the filter pump. It has been around for several weeks. Almost a month.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I was wondering if this product is any good?
https://www.amazon.com/NICREW-Autom...l+vacuum&qid=1566946973&s=gateway&sr=8-8&th=1


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

I love using surface skimmers. They help with gas exchange and keep the surface like glass. 

You can go fancy and get an intake for your canister that has a skimmer built in. Glass, stainless steel, or a budget friendly option is the one Fluval makes. Or the Eheim standalone unit seems to get decent marks.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am thinking of using a surface skimmer to provide flow that way I can use the cascade penn plax 200 on a future 20 gallon tank.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> I am thinking of using a surface skimmer to provide flow that way I can use the cascade penn plax 200 on a future 20 gallon tank.




Do what you think is best. Sounds good to me.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am having second thoughts. I have $70 left to spend on stuff for this aquarium. I found root tabs for 10 bucks, the meds I need for 13, a thermometer for 3, and python water changer for 40. All this together is ~$60.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> Okay. I think it is from the grease used in the filter pump. It has been around for several weeks. Almost a month.


There is no grease in your canister or hang on back filters. 

Usually a good surface agitation like hang on back dropping into tank will be enough to pull it underwater where filter will pick it up.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

They have to grease the motor, right?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Nope, it’s not a motor in a conventional sense. Only moving part is impeller and uses water to lubricate between it and stainless steel or ceramic shaft. Magnets make impeller turn.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

What is the oil from then?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> What is the oil from then?




Surface film that appears oily can be from a number of things, from organics, to chemicals (glues, lubricants, etc), bacteria, et al


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Oh. Could it be from super glue? I didn't put that much on though. Dying plants?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Oh. Could it be from super glue? I didn't put that much on though. Dying plants?


If your plants are going through a transitional melt, that's likely the culprit. A surface skimmer would keep that cleared right up.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

The amazon swords are starting to yellow a bit. I need to get root tabs for them ASAP.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Film comes mainly from breakdown of organic waste. Usually good surface agitation will take care of it if you don’t overstock/over feed, which we know is not the case here. It can also come from your hands so a good washing with warm water only before sticking your hands/arm in tank is always a good idea. Even your cork could be releasing the oil into your tank.

1st thing you should do before bothering with root tabs is start light/lean daily or every other day dosing to water column with complete range fert. Is it older leaves that are yellowing or are new leaves yellow? It not unusual for older leaves to yellow then melt away after transplanting swords.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I think it is just the older leaves. I have already been dosing seachem flourish twice a week.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Does anyone have experience with blue emperor tetras(also called royal tetras)?


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## RollaPrime (Jul 27, 2018)

I had the yellow variant. But from what I've seen the both look nice against a black background. Mine fought a lot and often.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

That is what I have been reading. I will not get them then. I only very peaceful fish.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

If you don't get anything large enough to eat them, a huge shoal of pygmy cories would look pretty awesome.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

That may work. Their tank mates would be honey gouramis, neon tetras probably, reticulated julii corys, eventually otocinclus.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well my old friend brown diatom algae has made a home in this tank. He has been living on the glass lately and now on the leaves of some of the amazon swords. What should I do? The light is on for 5 hours a day, I have stopped doing seachem flourish. I have 13 DIY root tabs with half sand half osmocote plus. No supplemental co2 and no chance I would get it.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Well my old friend brown diatom algae has made a home in this tank. He has been living on the glass lately and now on the leaves of some of the amazon swords. What should I do? The light is on for 5 hours a day, I have stopped doing seachem flourish. I have 13 DIY root tabs with half sand half osmocote plus. No supplemental co2 and no chance I would get it.


Wait it out, if your water is cycled, otos will make such quick work of it, your head will spin.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

It is cycling right now. Should I chop off the affected leaves?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> It is cycling right now. Should I chop off the affected leaves?


If they're the emersed grown leaves and you're getting new submerged growth, yes.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

No all leaves are submerged. Not much new growth yet but the plants are a little bigger since I added the tabs.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Actually there is a lot of new growth.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

If it’s submerged form of growth, then just leave it. Also posting some pictures would help.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Here is the stringy green stuff and the brown diatoms. (boo to the diatoms!) The N. Rubra is growing very well! Some new growth on the amazon swords too! The plants seem to do better with the root tabs. Including the algae and the single-celled organisms lol.

Bump: The last picture is of a weird looking thing towards the rear of the tank near the filter intake. Not sure what it is yet. Perhaps a piece of a plant or something.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Your diatoms don’t look bad at all. With the way you made it sound, I was expecting a blanket lol.

Also your swords still have a lot of emersed growth. Long stems with a heart shaped paddle-like leaf is emersed growth. At least one of your swords is also buried too deeply, you shouldn’t bury the crown, it can stunt growth or even kill the plant.


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

Ditto @varanidguy on not planting the swords too deep. They should like the root tabs. Once the submersed leaves start coming out, the older emersed ones will start looking ratty, so just trim them off as they start turning brown.

The lotus looks like it's doing well. They can take off really quickly and start shooting leaves to the surface. So you need to decide if you want to keep it bushy & submerged, or have lily pad leaves on the surface--and if you're lucky, a flower. If you want it bushy, aggressively trim off any long-stemmed leaves that try to head to the surface. Once one leaf hits the surface, that's all it wants to do so it can flower & reproduce. You might hold off on more root tabs until you see what it's gonna do. I put a couple of root tabs under mine, and it shot up a leaf a day to the surface over the course of a week while I was away. 

If it's too soon to add otos to eat the diatoms, you might try some snails, and cheap ghost shrimp (you can usually find 'em for ≈50¢ apiece) They can help keep the algae under control until you finish cycling & can safely add fish.

Your tank looks like it's coming together nicely. I'm jealous that you have a lot less algae than I did when i was starting mine LOL


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I fixed the swords that are buried too deep. Thank you for the advice guys. The tank is still cycling so snails may be the only option. I just found one in my 10 gallon today lol. IDK how the heck he got there. Probably the swords. He was pretty little, so I was unable to determine the species. I sucked him up in my gravel vac but pitied him at the last minute so I chucked him back in the tank. If he lives and I see him again, I will move him to the 75.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> I fixed the swords that are buried too deep. Thank you for the advice guys. The tank is still cycling so snails may be the only option. I just found one in my 10 gallon today lol. IDK how the heck he got there. Probably the swords. He was pretty little, so I was unable to determine the species. I sucked him up in my gravel vac but pitied him at the last minute so I chucked him back in the tank. If he lives and I see him again, I will move him to the 75.




I always seed new tanks with snails before fish. They do well at cleaning some plant melt and churning the substrate.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you. What snails?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Thank you. What snails?




I like using Malaysian trumpets and the larger variety of pink ramshorns.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thank you. If they get out of control, I like the idea of the high-speed chases between assassin snails and others.


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

If you want some Malaysian Trumpet Snails, I'm sure many of us on here would be happy to gift you (read: unload) some of ours. >

Assassin snails will keep them under control, but it can take awhile. If you want immediate gratification, pea puffers or many of the loaches will happily devour all the snails you've got........


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Mr. Gary McShell lives! (I know, super creative name). Here is a pic. He has a really pretty shell. My mom loves him.

Bump: Any idea what he is?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Mr. Gary McShell lives! (I know, super creative name). Here is a pic. He has a really pretty shell. My mom loves him.
> 
> Bump: Any idea what he is?




Bladder/pond snail. Not harmful but my least favorite.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Yes it is thank you. Do they eat plants?

Bump: NVM I realized they don't generally eat live plants. Why do you not like them?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Yes it is thank you. Do they eat plants?
> 
> Bump: NVM I realized they don't generally eat live plants. Why do you not like them?




Malaysian trumpets get a bad reputation for their propensity for extreme breeding, these things can make them look like mystery snails. Plus they’re not as pretty as the pink ramshorn snails and fill the same niche. 


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thanks. Why do you not like pond snails?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok thanks. Why do you not like pond snails?




They’re not destructive or anything, unless they’re starving. But between a brown blob and a pink curly boi, it’s just a personal preference.



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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

My LFS has:

batik nerite snails, military helmet snails, red lip snails, zebra thorn snails, assassin snails.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> My LFS has:
> 
> 
> 
> batik nerite snails, military helmet snails, red lip snails, zebra thorn snails, assassin snails.




Next time you’re there, ask if they have any Malaysian trumpets (if you want some). They’re so common that sometime an LFS will just give you some.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Cool thanks.

And here we have Gary McShell trekking across the desert sands to the eternal cliffs of cork, where he will worship the sun deity. AKA The Beamswork:grin2:



NVM he just turned around. He's like "forget about some fake deity. Algae is better."


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Oh my gosh! I just tested the tank water and ammonia is 0, nitrite 2.5, nitrate 5! The cycle is almost over! I was wanting it to last longer so I could save up for fish! I need to consider stocking now. The neons are not looking good. One looks like it has neon disease. I will keep dosing ammonia for now. I will see if the neons make it.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Oh my gosh! I just tested the tank water and ammonia is 0, nitrite 2.5, nitrate 5! The cycle is almost over! I was wanting it to last longer so I could save up for fish! I need to consider stocking now. The neons are not looking good. One looks like it has neon disease. I will keep dosing ammonia for now. I will see if the neons make it.




Your nitrites are relatively high. It’s not a good idea to dose ammonia until your nitrites have gone at least below .5 ppm, preferably 0. You don’t want to stall your cycle on accident.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

GOSH DANG IT!!! I am so sorry, the nitrates are 0.25.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> GOSH DANG IT!!! I am so sorry, the nitrates are 0.25.




Nitrites or nitrates? I’m assuming nitrites. If they’re that low, what I would do is a water change of 50% to reset. Dose ammonia to 2-4 ppm depending on what your system is used to, and test again in 24 hours. Keep us posted! It’s exciting to get fish ready in a new tank. [emoji869]


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

ARRRRRRGGHHHH. The NitrItes are 0.25. NitrAtes are 5. I have been dosing slightly less than 5 mil per day. I desperately need ideas though. I also desperately need my neons to either heal or die. I am 1/3 of the way done treating them. The kanaplex says to only use for 6 days MAX. What after that?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> ARRRRRRGGHHHH. The NitrItes are 0.25. NitrAtes are 5. I have been dosing slightly less than 5 mil per day. I desperately need ideas though. I also desperately need my neons to either heal or die. I am 1/3 of the way done treating them. The kanaplex says to only use for 6 days MAX. What after that?




I also have a 75 at about the same stage yours is at. I’m personally looking to do a peaceful community of African and Asian species of fish, but it won’t be strict. Looking at fish between 3-6”, so things like rainbows, maybe a clouded archer, kribensis, etc. 

In regards to your neons, if they are continuing to deteriorate and get worse no matter what, it unfortunately may be more humane to euthanize them imo. But that’s entirely up to you.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Yes. After 6 days I will see what @Discusluv says and go from there. Would this work? https://www.fredmeyer.com/p/aura-cacia-clove-bud-oil/0005138191114#


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Yes. After 6 days I will see what @Discusluv says and go from there. Would this work? https://www.fredmeyer.com/p/aura-cacia-clove-bud-oil/0005138191114#




It should. [emoji22]


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I hope it doesn't come to that but if it does, it's for the better.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, after it cycles I will be gone for a week in mid-late October. I probably should stock before then so the bacteria doesn't die, right? Anyways, I will plan on first putting in Honey Gouramis. I love the gold color, but females are drab brown. My LFS carries Sunset Honey Gouramis, a special color strain of the normal ones. Could I get male regulars and female sunsets? How much less hardy are the sunsets?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Well, after it cycles I will be gone for a week in mid-late October. I probably should stock before then so the bacteria doesn't die, right? Anyways, I will plan on first putting in Honey Gouramis. I love the gold color, but females are drab brown. My LFS carries Sunset Honey Gouramis, a special color strain of the normal ones. Could I get male regulars and female sunsets? How much less hardy are the sunsets?




You should be fine doing that, I don’t think they’re any worse off between the color morphs. Have you considered pearl gouramis? They can be very impressive.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I have considered them, but I would prefer smaller fish.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Also I don't think they are temp compatible with Corydoras. Anyways, I am nearing the end of the cycle. Assume I can't put the neons in there for say a month. Should I just add the gouramis? Or wait? I am leaving for a week next month. Will the bacteria die? I would rather not have to dose ammonia longer than possible.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, I just hacked off some emersed growth on the amazon swords. They look super good! I also added some more root tabs.

Bump:

Bump: Also, how long can columnaris live without a host?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Heres some pics:


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I am still debating on whether to get dwarf corys or cherry barbs if the neons die. Any suggestions?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

GUYS I JUST REALIZED THAT DIANA WALSTAD IS ON THE FORUM!!!!!!!!! It is so cool! If Takashi Amano ever gets on here, I will probably faint lol.


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Amano died in 2015.



aquanerd13 said:


> GUYS I JUST REALIZED THAT DIANA WALSTAD IS ON THE FORUM!!!!!!!!! It is so cool! If Takashi Amano ever gets on here, I will probably faint lol.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

What he did? I had no idea. I guess he was pretty old. Oh well. I was hoping to meet him someday. I guess I will just have to wait ~80 more years. Sigh.

Bump: But anyways, Cherry barbs or dwarf corys?

Bump: If I go with corys, should I do paleatus or habrosus? I think habrosus are a little cuter, but paleatus may school with otos if I ever get some. I think I may just go with habrosus.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

The only pygmy corys at my LFS are wild-caught. Should I buy wild-caught fish? I feel kinda bad about them being kidnapped and stuffed in a bag.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> The only pygmy corys at my LFS are wild-caught. Should I buy wild-caught fish? I feel kinda bad about them being kidnapped and stuffed in a bag.




Lol it’s fine. Every exotic fish species we have is a result of wild collecting. Maybe try to breed them and sell them, make some money back and take pressure off wild populations.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok, thanks. I just feel guilty about doing it. If I can breed them, that would be good.

Bump: And the pygmy corys would be mid dwellers, correct?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok, thanks. I just feel guilty about doing it. If I can breed them, that would be good.
> 
> Bump: And the pygmy corys would be mid dwellers, correct?




Sometimes getting wild stock is a good thing. It diversifies the genetics we are working with. And yes, they will be bottom to mid. Mine are always exploring and nibbling on stuff mid water.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok, thanks. I think if the neons die, the gouramis should add enough color to the tank while the corydoras could be the court jesters/cleanup crew. If the neons don't die, then I will have lots of different colors.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Also, I am assuming the gouramis jump so I need a lid on this tank?


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## united natures (May 15, 2019)

How deep is the sand? Probably need some more!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

IN the back the sand is about 3-4 inches in the front about 1-2 inches I think. It is plenty deep I don't want anerobic bacteria forming.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Also, I am assuming the gouramis jump so I need a lid on this tank?


Yes! Get a lid!


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Not to go down this rabbit hole, but I'm also a fan of lids. Better safe than sorry AND if you live in a dry climate like I do, it makes management a lot easier.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Alright, thanks. I will get a lid then.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I have this weird stuff at the bottom of the tank. What is it? What should I do? It is translucent and pretty hard to see. I think it is growing:surprise: but not sure.

Bump: Is it slime algae?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> I have this weird stuff at the bottom of the tank. What is it? What should I do? It is translucent and pretty hard to see. I think it is growing:surprise: but not sure.
> 
> Bump: Is it slime algae?




Looks like biofilm. Harmless and snails will eat it. It’ll eventually go away.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thx.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, the tetras are taking a turn for the worse. The worst literally have no lower caudal-fin lobe. They are struggling to swim. I will euthanize soon. I think I will let the better ones try to recover. So I am 98% sure that they will all die by October 31(hopefully not on Halloween. That would be an interesting coincidence.) Anyways, say they all die. I will add the Honey gouramis before Halloween. That is the goal. After Christmas, I will get the corys. I am thinking of getting the reticulated Jullis first. Then the pygmies.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok I am DONE. This stupid oil stuff is everywhere floating around. The tank is hideous. Brown algae is taking over the back wall and the substrate. I have this horrible stuff pictured above in post #286. The oily stuff is covering up the suction cups, so I assume that is what it is from. I am also hating my filter more and more every day. Maintenance is a pain. It gets water everywhere. The base is cracking. I will never buy a Penn Plax filter again. I am gonna buy a Fluval fx4 as soon as I can afford it.

Bump: I am afraid the fish will eat the oily stuff and get sick once I add them.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok I am DONE. This stupid oil stuff is everywhere floating around. The tank is hideous. Brown algae is taking over the back wall and the substrate. I have this horrible stuff pictured above in post #286. The oily stuff is covering up the suction cups, so I assume that is what it is from. I am also hating my filter more and more every day. Maintenance is a pain. It gets water everywhere. The base is cracking. I will never buy a Penn Plax filter again. I am gonna buy a Fluval fx4 as soon as I can afford it.
> 
> Bump: I am afraid the fish will eat the oily stuff and get sick once I add them.


If by "oily stuff", you mean the biofilm...creatures eat it and like it, especially invertebrates. It's simply part of new tank syndrome.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well I hope your right because it is hideous. I need some snails. My LFS has black nerites. No trumpet snails though.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

Do you have a way to create some flow at or above the surface level, to break up the bio film and feed it to the rest of the tank?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Well I hope your right because it is hideous. I need some snails. My LFS has black nerites. No trumpet snails though.




Fleabay. You can get some MTS delivered to you for about $10 if you really want em.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok thank you.


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## Yaboihunt (Mar 27, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> The only pygmy corys at my LFS are wild-caught. Should I buy wild-caught fish? I feel kinda bad about them being kidnapped and stuffed in a bag.




Where???


YaBoiHunt


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Wet Spot Tropical Fish.

https://www.wetspottropicalfish.com/current-stock/


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## Yaboihunt (Mar 27, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> Wet Spot Tropical Fish.
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.wetspottropicalfish.com/current-stock/




YOU’RE THE BEST! 


YaBoiHunt


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Umm... Thanks? How so?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well, I guess the snail is happy as it had 2 egg cluster glob things. I put them in a .75 gallon ikea tub with a sponge filter and water from the 75. I will see how this goes! @BlueRigeReef will be the shrimp tycoon and me the snail tycoon lol.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So the brown diatome algae is definitely thriving, and so is the stringy green algae stuff. I am using DIY root tabs filled half with osmocote plus and half with sand. The light is on for 7 hours a day. No supplemental co2. What needs to be lowered to eliminate the algae?


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## united natures (May 15, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> So the brown diatome algae is definitely thriving, and so is the stringy green algae stuff. I am using DIY root tabs filled half with osmocote plus and half with sand. The light is on for 7 hours a day. No supplemental co2. What needs to be lowered to eliminate the algae?


What plants are in the tank? If there aren't many plants then algae will grow. Probably dont need root tabs at this point


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I have a nymphea rubra, 12 amazon swords, 2 anubais barteri.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

united natures said:


> What plants are in the tank? If there aren't many plants then algae will grow. Probably dont need root tabs at this point


I thought Nymphaea Rubra were very heavy root feeders?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Diatoms go away on their own eventually, or you could introduce snails. Where are you at with the cycle?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok. I will test the water tomorrow morning and see where I am at. I should be able to buy a python water changer soon so I can keep the nitrates low.


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## united natures (May 15, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> I thought Nymphaea Rubra were very heavy root feeders?


Your plants are all slow-medium growing, I wouldn't expect them to out compete algae if you have a decent light. Get some fast growing plants or just reduce the lighting. Amazon swords, anubias can live in the shade in nature, that's how little light they can survive off of. If you haven't transferred any fish to the tank then I wouldn't even bother with lighting right now (Maybe just 2-3 hours per day).


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

Yep, the Nymphaea is a heavy root feeder, and can benefit from root feeding. 

Ditto @united natures on fast growing plants & shortened light cycle to combat algae. Floating plants soak up nutrients the fastest, and also limit light. Water sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) is an easy beginner plant that can float on top, and also grows well planted in the substrate. But there are lots of others to choose from. Just avoid duckweed like the plague--'cause it is....

Hang in there--algae blooms are part of a new tank for most of us newbies. Do you have any algae eating critters besides snails? I found ghost shrimp helpful--they're like 50¢ apiece so good & cheap. And they don't breed out of control like snails. If they do breed, the fish will enjoy the babies as snacks.....


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I only have 1 snail right now. I am waiting for the eggs to hatch. The ghost shrimp at pet smart are 39 cents apiece. Next time I head to wet spot I will stop by and pick a few up. This should happen in the next few weeks as I need some floating plants. Should I get Salvinia minima or Salvinia natans?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

That’s personal preference, and a group of nerite snails can do wonders on the algae bloom. Or a large handful of ramshorn snails. 


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I am probably going to Wet Spot tomorrow. I will pick up some Salvinia Minima and some snails. Is there anything else I should get?

Bump: Should I also pick up some green Cabomba? Water Wisteria? Cabomba is a prettier plant than hornwort IMHO, so I would rather get that but if hornwort is a significantly better nutrient guzzler, I will get some instead. Also, are wild-caught snails more likely to have parasites than captive bred?

Here is the plant stock list.
https://www.wetspottropicalfish.com/current-stock-2/


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> So I am probably going to Wet Spot tomorrow. I will pick up some Salvinia Minima and some snails. Is there anything else I should get?
> 
> Bump: Should I also pick up some green Cabomba? Water Wisteria? Cabomba is a prettier plant than hornwort IMHO, so I would rather get that but if hornwort is a significantly better nutrient guzzler, I will get some instead. Also, are wild-caught snails more likely to have parasites than captive bred?
> 
> ...


I bet you can start a light stocking of fish. What are you parameters at now?


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Some narrow leaf temple plant, reliable, easy fast grower and always makes a dramatic statement. Once it gets about a foot tall (closer to light) in your tank you can expect about 2-3” growth a week in a non co2 tank. Plant in cluster with stems about 2-3” apart in back right, minimum of 4-5” from glass to give leaves room to spread out and you’ll get what you see in that picture.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

Also, just so you can spend that money on something else, PM me your address and I'll send you as much S minima as you want.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate ~15

I have $60 to spend on this hobby right now, and I would really like to have a python water changer to do WCs instead of 3 gallons at a time. 

So the python is 60. 
8 bucks for salvinia minima and cabomba.(they are 4 a peice)
What fish should I get first? 
Pygmy corys are 2 bucks a pop, but minimum 6. 
Honey gouramis are 3(for regulars), and C. Reticulatus are $6. 
I could get 3 honey gouramis, 2 females 1 male for $9. Or $4 for sunset honey gouramis.


Thank you so much for the offer @Blue Ridge Reef, but my parents are extremely cautious when it comes to the internet and people on it, so I am unfortunately unable to accept. Thank you for the offer though. S. Minima is only 3.99 a portion.

Bump: or I could just buy the plants and the python water changer and wait to get the fish.


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

I'd get the water changer and the plants first, if it was me. You'll want the python when you have the fish, and getting your tank planted up will help control algae before it gets started. Plus, your new fish will appreciate the plant cover when they're added!


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## ursamajor (Oct 6, 2015)

You might not need to spend $60 on a python. A cheap submersible pump, vinyl tubing, and a bucket can do the same thing and might be less expensive. Check out how this aquarist does water changes.






Some great tips for tank maintenance throughout. 10:50 is where you see how he refills the tank. Red colander optional.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

No worries, @AquaNerd. They're wise to be cautious.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

ursamajor said:


> You might not need to spend $60 on a python. A cheap submersible pump, vinyl tubing, and a bucket can do the same thing and might be less expensive. Check out how this aquarist does water changes.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmm6h7zQLnc
> 
> Some great tips for tank maintenance throughout. 10:50 is where you see how he refills the tank. Red colander optional.


That is very ingenious. How does he drain his tank? Same method?

Thank you agian for the offer @Blue Ridge Reef


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Dang. I can't thank you enough @ursamajor. This setup will cost $18 rather than 60!! I need to tell the world about this.

Bump: Would this line work?

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/watering-and-irrigation/drip-irrigation-tubing/7035363


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

NVM, I bumped it down to $16!!!!!!! So I have $44 left for the fish/plants. Would it be necessary to buy a lid first?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So say I don't need a lid. I will take out the driftwood, put narrow-leaf temple plants where the wood was, I will get S. Minima to. Should I get anything else? If I get 
H. Corymbosa and the S. Minima it will cost $8. The Hygro comes as a bundle, so IDK how many it will be. How many Honey gouramis should I get? I have the money for all 8, but that might upset the bioload. Should I even add te gouramis first?

Also, should I QT these fish, or can I put them straight in the tank?


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

I QT any and everything living before it goes in my display tanks. You will probably be fine 95% of the time putting fish that appear to be in good health in an existing tank, but that 5% can have some real consequences. I have lost entire established tanks from adding new fish. If you have a QT tank, Kanaplex and Paraguard on hand, by all means take advantage of it. Doesn't need to be but 2 weeks or so. 

As for stocking, that's really up to you. You have some experience in the hobby and a large aquarium on your side. When I used to keep African cichlids, I'd often have to add 40 or 50 fish all at once or else whatever was in first would become established and territorial to the new arrivals. So if the tank is cycled, solid, and has growing plants adding several fish at once can definitely be done. Having said that, if you make it out to the Wet Spot at least a few times a year, patience is a virtue that pays dividends in this hobby.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am leaving for a week in November, would the bacteria die if they went that long without food? I think I will euthanize the dying neons and use the 10 for QT after a very very very thorough cleaning. I can get that done in the next 1 probably, and then I can make a trip to Wet Spot the begging of October. I can just get plants tomorrow.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

Sounds like the safest route. Yay patience!


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Don’t think that irrigation tubing is what you want, usually it’s pretty rigid and inflexible.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok. Would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Air...s=p_72:2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sr=8-7&th=1


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## ursamajor (Oct 6, 2015)

aquanerd13 said:


> Ok. Would this work?
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Air...s=p_72:2661618011&rnid=2661617011&sr=8-7&th=1


Probably not. Airline tubing is so narrow, your water change will take days. I think vinyl tubing is what you want. You should buy the powerhead first, then select a size of vinyl tubing (it comes in multiple diameters) that will fit the outlet. Any hardware store should have it.


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## Desert Pupfish (May 6, 2019)

ursamajor said:


> You might not need to spend $60 on a python. A cheap submersible pump, vinyl tubing, and a bucket can do the same thing and might be less expensive. Check out how this aquarist does water changes.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmm6h7zQLnc
> 
> Some great tips for tank maintenance throughout. 10:50 is where you see how he refills the tank. Red colander optional.


Thanks for sharing this. Now that I've got baby angels that require more frequent WC I'm getting tired of schlepping 5g buckets

What kind of pump would be best for this? After reading of @Greggz' disaster I'd wanna make sure I get the right kind of submersible pump...


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Desert Pupfish said:


> After reading of @Greggz' disaster I'd wanna make sure I get the right kind of submersible pump...


Mag drive pond pump.

Not utility pump with motor encased in oil.

The description should say safe for aquariums/ponds/fish.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Yes, it is a pond pump. So I heard that nerite snails don't reproduce asexually. Is this true?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Yes, it is a pond pump. So I heard that nerite snails don't reproduce asexually. Is this true?




Females will leave eggs making some pieces of decor look like it’s been turned into a pretzel.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

NVM, I forget they breed in brackish water. Do red onion snails reproduce in freshwater?

Bump: I want to have to buy only 2 snails and end up with lots.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> NVM, I forget they breed in brackish water. Do red onion snails reproduce in freshwater?
> 
> Bump: I want to have to buy only 2 snails and end up with lots.




Ramshorn snails. They’re decorative and prolific.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

My LFS doesnt carry them. Their stock is here.

https://www.wetspottropicalfish.com/current-stock/


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

Re leaving for a week in November - you have an automatic feeder, correct? If you set that up to dump a bit of fish food into your tank while you're away, you can keep the bacteria fed.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Good idea. Thanks. So today I picked up at WetSpot a 12 dollar submersible pump, a bundle of pennywort(which is uglier than I expected) and Salvinia minima.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I bought the aquatop SWP-230 submersible pump. The directions are terrible. IDK how to connect the included airline + adapter to the pump/attachments. I will post pics soon.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Tonight I am going to Ace Hardware to get some water line for the submersible pump. After that, I CAN STOCK THE TANK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Bump: Also, the plants came with a bunch of extra snails, so I have plenty now lol. Should I put sticks and branches for the pennywort to 'climb' up?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I got the Aquatop MazFlow 95 gph pump. I put it in the tank and ran the line, and only a tiny trickle came out because the dang pump is way too weak. What would be a good pump instead? What GPH would work? Also, I am a little concerned about water flow. The water coming out of the spray bar seems a bit too powerful for gouramis. Would it be okay if I turned down the filter GPH? Could I just turn the spray bar to the back wall so it ran down the back of the tank and across the substrate? I have half the spray bar doing this already. Could I do it with the whole thing? I could take the weak pump and use that for water circulation.

So I just discovered a little bit of duckweed in the salvinia minima. Should I remove it?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So now I have 45 feet of 3/16" ID tubing and a weak pump. Now what?


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## rakali (Sep 19, 2019)

If you are looking for cheap plants you might try AZ Gardens. I just planted 90% of a tank with one order (12 [email protected]$3.88/pot) of "Freshwater Assorted Potted Aquatic Plant Collection". Cost me $67 with shipping. Also I split a bunch of the stem plants up. Hard to see them all with the greenwater but this is the tank. The anubias and the J fern were from my home tank.

Good luck with your tank!


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## ursamajor (Oct 6, 2015)

Sorry to hear the pump didn't work out. When thinking about what kind of pump you want, think about how much water you need to move. If you do a 50% water change in a 75 gallon tank, that's over 30 gallons of water. It would take a 95 gph pump at least 20 minutes to move that volume, probably longer because that rating is a max flow that you usually don't see. I do water changes with a 210 gph pump, and it seems a good balance - not too fast, but doesn't take all day. It's actually just a bit slower than the output of my kitchen sink, which is ideal for doing refills with the method I posted above.

Regarding the duckweed, it may have just become a permanent fixture in your tank. I've heard others have had a hard time getting rid of it. Personally, I say embrace it. I love duckweed. I like how it looks, it can be a great sponge for excess nutrients, and it can moderate light levels in the tank. I think any kind of floating plant is a great addition to a low-tech tank.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

rakali said:


> I just planted 90% of a tank with one order (12 [email protected]$3.88/pot) of "Freshwater Assorted Potted Aquatic Plant Collection" from AZGardens. Cost me $67 with shipping. Also I split a bunch of the stem plants up. Hard to see them all with the greenwater but this is the tank. The anubias and the J fern were from my home tank.


Looks good, but you should start your own journal. This is the journal/thread to discuss Aquanerd's tank and answer questions for him if he needs it.


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## rakali (Sep 19, 2019)

varanidguy said:


> Looks good, but you should start your own journal. This is the journal/thread to discuss Aquanerd's tank and answer questions for him if he needs it.


I have a journal for this tank. They were asking for reccos on cheap plants in post above above. I made a suggestion and showed the tank for reference. Is that not appropriate?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

rakali said:


> I have a journal for this tank. They were asking for reccos on cheap plants in post above above. I made a suggestion and showed the tank for reference. Is that not appropriate?


Apologies, I misunderstood the context of the post.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

aquanerd13 said:


> So now I have 45 feet of 3/16" ID tubing and a weak pump. Now what?


3/16 or 3/8” I’d hose? 3/16 is only a bit bigger than 1/8” inside. 

But you need to consider weight of water in hose pump is going to have to push against, longer the hose the more water it has to push down hose. You will heed a pump with a minimum of 200gph at 6ft head height. That pump is very weak, it only has a head height of 3ft, made for doing trickle in small waterfall fountains or as circulation pump in tank.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

It says 3/16 ID. Wany recommendations on what pump?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

I would look at something that’s at least 200-300 gph, considering head pressure, that takes 5/8-3/4” ID hose, or go back to a Python (or something similar).


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I am thinking of this for stocking:

Corydoras trilineatus
Trichogastar chuna
Puntias titteya

Will the P. titteya roam the tank or stay more in the middle?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So here is the plan:

I get back from vacation on the 26th. I fill the 10-gallon tank with water from the 75. I get the first fish and QT them. 2 weeks later they go in the big tank and I get the next batch of fish. QT for 2 weeks and then get the next batch and repeat until I have:

21 Cherry Barbs
8 Honey Gouramis
15 Reticulated julii corys.

I have also been thinking about snail control. I don't want Assasin Snails because they will take over, so I was thinking loaches. What is a good loach that I could have? I have been told that khulis are a pain, zebras are too territorial, so I was thinking yoyo loaches? It says they like to show dominance, so keep 6. Could I just have 1?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> So here is the plan:
> 
> I get back from vacation on the 26th. I fill the 10-gallon tank with water from the 75. I get the first fish and QT them. 2 weeks later they go in the big tank and I get the next batch of fish. QT for 2 weeks and then get the next batch and repeat until I have:
> 
> ...


No need to use water from the 75 unless the parameters will be significantly different from your tap. The water column doesn't house enough bacteria to justify using.


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

I don't think you need to be worrying about snail control. The population should stay reasonable if you aren't overfeeding. I try to avoid adding fish just to 'fix' a problem - I think you should add animals that you are excited about, rather than have something taking up real estate that you didn't really want in the first place.

Not sure what you've heard about kuhlis - I love mine, they're model citizens.... I've also never seen them eat a snail. Re yoyo loaches, they are definitely social fish (my kuhlis are always right next to each other), so I think just one would be a little lonely 

Assassins *can* breed, it's true, but I've never had mine go out of control.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Ok, good to know. Well the diatom bloom is now over. The snails should have less food now, so that's good.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I was wondering if I could use a 10 gallon with a cascade 200 HOB as QT tank for Honey Gouramis? Is this too small?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> So I was wondering if I could use a 10 gallon with a cascade 200 HOB as QT tank for Honey Gouramis? Is this too small?




Should be perfectly fine.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Could I use bleach to euthanize the tetras that are suffering?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Could I use bleach to euthanize the tetras that are suffering?




Noooooo, clove oil or simply crushing their heads swiftly.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

What should I crush their heads with? I don't have clove oil or crushed cloves, so that is the only option.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> What should I crush their heads with? I don't have clove oil or crushed cloves, so that is the only option.




That would depend on how confident you are, and whatnot. I would use my ballpeen hammer and do it as swiftly as physically possible. No way to get some from Target or a local store?


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

Can you put them in a separate tank? Maybe some will iive?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I did it yesterday alrady. RIP neon tetras .


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## united natures (May 15, 2019)

Rip......


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I made 'body bags' out of strips of aluminum foil, quickly netted the fish, wrapped them in the foil, layed them on a cutting board and smashed them with a frying pan. It was clean, quick, and painless.


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

Sorry for your loss. Sounds like you did the best that could be expected for them.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Yes, I figured this would be the most humane method other than clove oil.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Well I have off the charts nitrates, so I had better go do a water change. The thing I like about this water changer is that it is very slow. I can be looking around on this forum or researching or trimming plants or whatever while it does the water change. Filling it back up is a pain in the butt because I had the thing going for 5 hours and it put about half an inch of water in the tank! I am using the water hose instead to fill it up.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

This is kinda off topic but I may have just saved the lives of crabs being sold by Petco. I read their 'freshwater'(actually brackish) crab care sheet checking for flaws and they said they require tanks of 5 gallons and they like freshwater. I contacted them and they said their sources say I am correct and that they will talk to the people on their end. I will be watching that care sheet to see if it changes. I think I may look at all the big box store websites and tell them about flaws. I doubt most will listen, but sometimes they may.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Here are some pics I took this morning. I recently propagated the pennywort. I am planning on making a thick jungle of the stuff so the fish can hide in it.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Things look like they’re on the right track, good job!


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Thank you! I just got an auto feeder to keep it cycled while I am gone.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I am back now. I will test the water later. I have 6.5 weeks before I leave on a 3-week vacation. Should I stock before or after the vacation? If I QT for 2 weeks, I could get the fish this week and after QT have 4 weeks to make sure they are happy. What fish should I add first?

Ok. So here is the plan for food. New life spectrum Thera-a regular formula. These are slow sinking pellets, so they should get to the honey gouramis but especially the cherry barbs. I also have some Aqueon flakes they can have to. Should I get bug bites tropical formula?

I will also have Fluval bug bites bottom feeder food for the Corydoras. I think this will be good because in the wild they eat mostly insects and small inverts. Some of the NLS should get to them too. Should I get the omega 1 sinking shrimp pellets instead for the corys?

I have also heard not to feed corys too much high protein food? But others say they need lots of protein.

I will give the fish FD bloodworms as treats to. I will also get them some brine shrimp every once in a while.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

I would be inclined to wait until I got back from vacation before buying new fish you're just going to leave for 3 weeks once they get settled in.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

That is how I felt. Thanks.

Does this stocking seem like too much?

8 x Honey Gourami (Trichogaster chuna)
20 x Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya)
11 x False Julii Cory (Corydoras trilineatus)


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> That is how I felt. Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




That would likely be just fine.

I wanted to add watch the barbs for nipping. From what I’ve heard, cherries aren’t as bad as tigers, but they can still find long fins tempting. 20 may help curb that behavior though.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

Is it true the Seachem Paragaurd kills hydra?

Bump: Is it true the Seachem Paragaurd kills hydra?


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

aquanerd13 said:


> Is it true the Seachem Paragaurd kills hydra?
> 
> Bump: Is it true the Seachem Paragaurd kills hydra?




I cannot confirm or deny that but your fish selection will eat them.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

So I just remembered that I am leaving for 3 weeks in December. My tank will completely un-cycle. Is there any way to avoid this?

Another slight issue i'm having is some of the leaves on the amazon swords are turning pale and almost translucent. The N. rubra is growing like a weed. I will add more ferts today. What is causing this? Old leaves dying back? The anubias are also doing great. I will upload photos later. I also haven't really noticed growth for the swords lately.


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## germanblueramlover (Jun 9, 2013)

For the swords, I think that's normal. Could be a mix of old leaves dying back, and also leaves that weren't grown in your tank dying to be replaced with new leaves that are more adapted to your water. Is it the outer leaves, or the innermost (new) ones?

Plants in your tank will provide some form of ammonia as leaves decompose, so it's not the same as a completely empty tank. Is there someone who will be home who can feed your tank?


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

We will have a house sitter, so I guess he could do it. Its mostly the older leaves, although a few smaller ones are doing it to.


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

Just teach house sitter how to lightly ghost feed tank with food every other day, like feeding 2-3 guppy lightly. This will slowly decompose and feed nitrogen and phosphorus to tank to keep cycle going. Your at stage where it would be wise to start doing that anyway so tanks bacteria/microbes are adapted to processing small amounts of organic nitrogen and phosphorus waste.


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## aquanerd13 (Jun 22, 2019)

I'll just have the house sitter add 5 mm ammonia every day.


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## AquaPlantsAquarium (May 27, 2019)

OP, your tank would look amazing with some Vallisneria and any Aponogeton. Both I find are very easy plants.


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