# drilling tank for canister filter plumbing



## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

opposite sides of the tank, drilled through the back 1/2 way up the back of the tank.


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Tom Barr has a photo and some information about one of his recent projects here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/photo-album/59705-toms-180-wood-scaping-4.html#post538357

It involves drilling up through the bottom for the canister inflow and outflow.


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

thanks. i am more inclined to put the holes in the back. 

i wonder which fittings to use. if anybody has pictures with detail i would love to see.


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## crazy loaches (Sep 29, 2006)

Never drill through the bottom unless you know its not tempered - usually they are. You'll need a pair of bulkheads and barbs matched to you tubing size, and probably some strainers for the side of the bulkhead in the tank. If your drilling yourself, a rotozip w/ tile cutting bit and continous flow of cold water. Good luck, I am considering drilling some tank myself in the future but havent tried it yet.


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## Green Leaf Aquariums (Feb 26, 2007)

Try this if you plan on drilling..http://aquaticeco.resultspage.com/search?w=drill


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## gsd78 (Jan 13, 2004)

Check eBay for cheap glass cutting bits. Here's where I get my bulkheads: Savko. They have a nice chart listing bulkhead sizes and the correspong drill size needed.


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

actually, i plan to just have the manufacturer drill the holes.


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## crazy loaches (Sep 29, 2006)

In that case I assume you are having it custom built then... they can put em in the base prior to tempering, or the back. Drilling the base gives a cleaner look IMO, and all the plumbing is easily accessible in the stand underneath. You can also put the tank up closer to the wall since no plumbing will be in the back. However, and depending on the stand your using, you may have to modify it / cut holes to allow space for the plumbing to come through if it has a solid top. But at this point its up to you really.


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## Birdman (Feb 19, 2008)

Here's a DIY tip. Instead of expensive bulkhead fittings in many applications you can use elec. conduit PVC male and female adapters in place of bulkheads. The elec. conduit fittings have straight cut threads unlike the tapered pipe threads for regular PVC. this means the elec conduit fittings will screw together tight. Just use a little silicone, or if your going through poly like the blue barrels, then use 3-M 5200 Polyurethane Marine Adhesive.


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## crazie.eddie (May 31, 2004)

Whether or not the bottom is tempered, I would avoid drilling the bottom. IMO, it would be better to drill the back, closer to the top than the bottom. Worse case scenario, if there was some kind of leak, the water would only drain up to the hole. If it were drilled in the bottom or closer to the bottom, then of course, majority of the water would be drained.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

You can simply use riser tubes to pre set the intake level if drilled from the bottom, and you still have tubes along the side of the tank.

It's almost always wiser to drill from the bottom, it's also always wiser to use Sch 80 bulkheads and use 2 seals on each side.

I've done this more times that I can recall and never have I regretted putting bulk heads on the bottom.

I have regretted putting them on the side however........

I guess it's okay if you put them down low, say 2-4" above the top of the gravel etc.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## crazie.eddie (May 31, 2004)

The riser tubes would act like overflows, but who wants to see a tube like tower in the tank? Of course, unless you can strategically place plants around it or put moss around the tubes.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

crazie.eddie said:


> The riser tubes would act like overflows, but who wants to see a tube like tower in the tank? Of course, unless you can strategically place plants around it or put moss around the tubes.


No, you would not see them anymore than a hole in the back of the tank, I'm not talking about placing therm all the way up to the top of the tank as an overflow. Just say 1/2 way up, and yep, you can hide them just like you'd likely hide the bulk heads coming in the back of the tank.

If you use Lok line, you can divert the water any number of ways, below or above the gravel, around wood etc for bulks heads in back or bottom.
Adding to bottom also allows better use of floor space and lets you place the tank flush against walls etc. 

I do not like things on the sides of tanks, the bottom is NEVER viewed in any display unless you go bare bottomed. Sides can be. If you need to drain the tank, clean or replace the gravel, having a bottom drain is easy. The potential for leaking is no greater.

The glass tends to be ticker on the bottom also.
Thicker glass has less chance of breaking also and is far easier to drill(but takes a lot longer) than thin glass, say anything less than 3/16" gets funny.

I think a few side back of tank bulk heads are fine on larger system, mostly for current etc, but I'd still have one at the bottom.

Adding a 4", 6" 12" etc tall riser pipe will let you set the level of draining in your tank and you can always pull it out if you need to drain the tank lower or flush the old gravel muck out etc.




Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

thanks everybogy. this is great. thanks Tom for including model and brand name as references.


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

can somebody please direct me to a vendor for Schedule 80 fittings and suggest model? this will be a medium-sized system, ~50 gallons. i found this:

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~FT1145~tab~1.html

i won't be able to purchase the canister filter for a while. what size hose should i use?


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

sorry, this is a bump. can abybody give me any more specifics on Schedule 80 bulkheads?


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

OK, I think that I have a more specific plan in mind and more specific questions. I intend to order the glasscages rimless 70G tall (36" X 18" X 24" tall). The tank has a special theme and I am planting with emergent/floating plants, so it will only be filled with ~30 gallons of water. 

I intend to plumb in a manner similar to that described by Tom Barr for his new 180, with a bulkhead in floor at each back corner. It's not much water, so a smaller canister, such as the Eheim ECCO, should be enough. Even so, I think that I would like to use 1" bulkhead fittings to allow flexibility later on. I should be able to neck down to the 1/2" flexible pipe diameter with reducer bushings, right?

So, I have two questions:

1. Does this scheme sound OK?
2. What is the hole diameter for accomodation of 1", Schedule 80 bulkheads?


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## KurtG (Dec 10, 2007)

I think you are better finding your fittings first, but the schedule 80 1" fittings that I am aware of used a 1 7/8" hole. Should have no problem reducing diameter with available fittings.

+1 for the bottom plumbing


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## crabcake (Dec 19, 2007)

KurtG said:


> I think you are better finding your fittings first, but ...


Thanks. Yes, I have already had the experience of vendors' specs not matching the true outside bulkhead diameter, but I am in a hurry because glasscages is scheduling a delivery to Madison for April and it might be several months before that happens again.

Glasscages sells those bulkhead fittings, so I will probably just include them in order and request that they drill holes to match.


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