# tool for grabbing thread algae



## infolific (Apr 9, 2016)

Does anyone have a trick for pulling thread algae out of the tank? I'm talking about the individual strand, thread-like, green algae that grows 1+ inches long. I've tried the threads around the bristle brush used to clean out API test tubes. I've tried roughing up a wooden skewer. I even tried a fuzzy pipe cleaner like that kind you'd play with as a kid. Nothing seems to grab onto the algae so I can pull it out. Is there a kind of tweezer that works well?


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## irishspy (Oct 22, 2007)

If it's the long green thread algae I'm thinking of, twirling a toothbrush in it has always worked.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

We all have different levels of what bothers us. 
With that said, I feel you may be working the idea too hard if you have a single strand that is only an inch long. The brush will work much better if it has more to grab as well as longer so it can be wrapped more as you turn the brush. The longer wrap gives more grip when you start to pull.


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## infolific (Apr 9, 2016)

@irishspy: I gave the toothbrush idea a try and it didn't work. It didn't grab the algae at all. The stuff I have is soft and I can't feel it when I try to grab it with my fingers.
@PlantedRich: I don't have a single strand. I can only imagine your expression after reading my post  I meant the kind of algae I have grows as single strands rather than branching out or forming a mass. I have _many_ single strands. They're in high current and low current areas. They're close to the light and far away from the light. 

Recently I tried H2O2 and I didn't get the usual bubbling like when I apply H2O2 to other algae so I've got no indication that it had any impact.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

Long planting tweezers with silicone tubing pushed over the ends.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


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## infolific (Apr 9, 2016)

I tried airline tubing over the tweezers. Not sure if that's what you meant, but it didn't work.

I also put the tweezers into a rectangular mould which I filled with silicone sealant. Once it dried I trimmed the excess away and cut the part in between the tweezers with a razor. This has worked the best of anything so far, but even then it grabs maybe 25% of the threads I go after. This algae is thin and slippery!


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## pirasha (Nov 3, 2012)

huh 
I've not have experience with such a difficult to remove algae that wasn't calcified. 

could you post a pic maybe?


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## infolific (Apr 9, 2016)

Here's a photo of the algae. It's zoomed in so keep in mind that the threads shown are thinner than hair. The color is a bit off too and the threads are darker green.

When I'm able to get a grip on them, they do detach with the leaf moving a little. So the problem is just getting a good grip as more often than note the algae just slips through my fingers/tweezers as I pull.


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## pirasha (Nov 3, 2012)

ah I see

so I've not had experience with this at all so I did some research with it and I apologize if you know all of this already.

It looks like the actual name is Spirogyra algae...and it's a pain to get rid of (shocking to you I'm sure)
apparently Rosy Barbs eat it if they are hungry enough...if you're looking for a new school.
Also American Flagfish eat it too (they may nip a plant or too if hungry enough though...you'd have to do little more research there)

Anyway here's how a few people have handled it:

Here's a thread where someone took apart their tank and cleaned each plant...depending on how many plants it's affecting this could be something helpful:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/23-algae/198565-my-treatment-spirogyra-algae.html 

Looks like people also do three day blackouts (lights off, wrap tank in tin foil or cloth to keep light off); keeping CO2 off, doing large daily water changes, and dosing ferts after each change.


or this is another method someone use (I can't seem to attach link so here's the reply)



Day one: trim most affected leaves, introduce some carbon to your canister (1/3 capacity) followed by a two day black-out, don't fertilize, no CO2, don't feed fish, airate tank 

Day two: patience (many alga threads should have detached already floating all around the tank) 

Day three: drain water as low as possible and spray KH2PO4 solution (5g to 100ml) onto the affected areas and wait for five minutes until filling back again (please use only 50% of old tank water), switch on lights to 50% intensity, trim most affected leaves once again, CO2 bubble rate back to normal, feed fish, add 12ml Excel to every 80L of water, introduce 20 Amano shrimp / 80L 

Day four: clean filter (you'll be surprised how much green sluggish there is), remove carbon, fertilization back to normal, feed fish 

Day five: all things back to normal including light



Hopefully that helps...if you continue to get is you may want to check your parameters to find out what is actually causing the issue

Much Luck!


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## Tom Barr (Nov 16, 2012)

API algaefix will work and kill it with no harm to any plants or fish, shrimp will take a hit, and die, maybe 20-30%. 
Water changes before and after, H2O2 does not really work well. Excel can but just a general dose daily till it goes away, 2-3x a week water changes, 50-80%, manual removal, good CO2, ferts post water change, trim plants back, remove some if they keep getting it. 

The Api only fixes what is there and does not resolve the root cause which is CO2 in any case I've even seen or had with this alga. 
I have been able to beat it without using the chemicals, but the chemicals make it faster and much less labor, but.....it does kill some shrimp. 
Amanos are touchier than Cherry shrimp. 

CO2 tank ran out while on vacation:











A lot of elbow grease and water changes, trimming, algae removal and 3 days later: 









The tank needed the water changes and trimming, a new gas tank etc, so.............the API would not have had done all that for me either.


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## infolific (Apr 9, 2016)

Thanks for the links and additional info pirasha and Tom.

I can confirm that Excel even at 2x doesn't have any impact. Spot treating with H202 hasn't done anything for me either.

I've increased my water changes to 2x per week, but at only 30%-50%. I've also been increasing CO2 slowly and watching for gasping fish. So far so good and pearling has increased which I figure is a good sign. I can't tell if I've slowed growth with my changes so perhaps Algaefix is next to reset things and see where I stand on the changes. I was just about to drop in a bunch of shrimp so I guess that'll have to wait...


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## Watercrayfish (Apr 21, 2016)

Check the expiry of your H2O2
"You need to replace hydrogen peroxide six months after opening it, but it will last for three years unopened. To test whether it is still effective, you can pour it in to the sink and see if it fizzes and bubbles. If it does, it's still good. Expired hydrogen peroxide is plain water."


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## infolific (Apr 9, 2016)

Thanks @Watercrayfish for the tip. My H2O2 is good. Aside from being new, it turns some BBA a satisfying reddish-pink when spot treating.

[Update Nov 2, 2016]
So the AlgaeFix worked. In my case I didn't see any changes until after the second dose. I ended up dosing 3 times to make sure. The algae went from a healthy green to a whitish/greyish color. And at first the algae remained attached to the leaves, but eventually dropped off. The slightest touch would cause it to detach too.

I tested AlgaeFix in 2 tanks where I may have lost a shrimp or two out of 15+. 

I also tested AlgaeFix in a separate container with some plant cuttings. I used a higher dose to see if it would harm plants and it didn't. My thinking is to hit plants with a dose on the way into my tank as a preventative measure.


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