# Amateur starting journal



## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

does this photo work? I am trying to figure out how to post photos from imageshack. I tried uploading directly to attachments but it says file is too big.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Inserted with the bitmap/picture icon and dropped the "s" from https.
You were close.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you Maryland. Here's another test. I am gonna get this right sooner or later


http://imageshack.com/i/pn6SLytUj


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Use the icon that says insert image, not link/url.
Try preview before you submit new replies.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Sorry Maryland. The only options I have when posting is attach file and send. When I try to attach a photo it says file exceeds my quota.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)




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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)




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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I hope the pictures are working now?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Next water change I am planning to remove some stem plants, kind of want to remove them all and continue my carpet. But i don't want to compromise hiding places for my dwarf cray.

Also cleaned my canister filter yesterday, for the first time in about a year, I seem to be experiencing a bba outbreak. Idont know if it could be related. But i hope it stops and goes away.


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## KleineVampir (Aug 29, 2017)

Well dang...If you're as amateur as it gets, then I certainly do not have any talent for the creative side of this hobby! I understand the science but maybe making things look good is not exactly my forte. Or maybe the secret is just to plant a ton of plants. I'm trying to grow mine out so I don't have to keep spending money on buying the same species that I'd be able to propagate anyways..


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Over the past 5 years the tank went through a lot of trial and error. Co2 regulator failing and gasing out all fish, causing major algae out breaks. And lots self inflicted failures, too long light period, not enough ferts, too much ferts not enough circulation. My tank is my stress management, so spend time watching it, changing plant layouts alot. Mostly trying to see what type of plants I can grow successfully together. The staurogyne carpet is 1 of the oldest residence in there. It went through a 100% melt down from idk what caused it maybe just stauro melt. It survived a blanket of blue green algae. But keeps bouncing back. Now i need to figure the balance to get it as lush as it use to be. While keeping other plants happy and algae at bay. Light period now is only 6hours. Co2 on 1 hour prior and off with lights. Going to add some osmocote tabs and see if it helps.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just some photos of some stages my tank has went through


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Got tired of trying to clean up java moss from the tank after a trim job. Even after I removed the java, it still took a long while to rid the tank entirely from java moss. This was my staurogyne carpet before it suffered what I believe is known as a staurogyne melt and dropped all its leaves, causing major case of BGA. The Blyxa I accidentally vaporized with Metricide, spot dosing. Live and Learn


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

KZB said:


> Got tired of trying to clean up java moss from the tank after a trim job. Even after I removed the java, it still took a long while to rid the tank entirely from java moss. This was my staurogyne carpet before it suffered what I believe is known as a staurogyne melt and dropped all its leaves, causing major case of BGA. The Blyxa I accidentally vaporized with Metricide, spot dosing. Live and Learn




I'm assuming the first picture in the above grouping is how the tank sits today?

If so, this is your opportunity to remove all the hardware, including that piece of wood and clean everything. Soak all the hardware in a bleach and water mixture and then scrub everything with a scrub brush. Once done fill the bucket with clean water and Prime and let it sit for a few minutes to rinse all the bleach. Keeping things clean will go a long way in helping to eliminate or at the very least reduce your BBA out breaks. 

I see it time and time again, people have algae issues in their tanks and things that they can physically remove from the tank and manually clean are covered in some sort of algae. If you want to start on the road to recover, manually clean off every surface that you can physically get your hands on, be it glass, hardware and hardscapes. There is no reason any of these items should ever have algae on them.

*EDIT:

I assumed wrong. My point is still valid and good for other people fighting algae to heed! *


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you for great advice slipfinger


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

What a great spot to get busy


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

And.....


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Kids shrimp tank


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just did a big water change. Trying to trim and remove as just BBA and dieing matter in the tank. The BBa started after I cleaned my canister filter. Seems its slowly getting worst. I hope the spot treating and water change helps. Recently added some Fissidens. I grew other mosses (Christmas and Java) before, but I thinkthe summer time heat here gets too much for them. I decided to give it another try since its Nov. Also trimmed and removed a bunch of stem plants. Trying to wrap the corner of the tank around with Staurogyne. I hope the dwarf crays don't mind


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

KZB said:


> Also cleaned my canister filter yesterday, for the first time in about a year, I seem to be experiencing a bba outbreak. Idont know if it could be related. But i hope it stops and goes away.


Try to clean much more often that once a year! At least every two weeks. It'll help out with controlling BBA.

Otherwise, nice looking tank!!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you Ken, I appreciate the compliment.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Ken Keating1 said:


> At least every two weeks.


That seems a little excessive. But everyones tank is different. 

I know people that have 2 filters on their tank, they clean one of them every two weeks, which works out to each filter being cleaned every 4 weeks. If you are cleaning them every two weeks, only thing I would be doing is switching out filter floss. This become even more important if you are using AquaSoil and stirring/dusting up the substrate on a regular bases.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

slipfinger said:


> That seems a little excessive. But everyones tank is different.
> 
> I know people that have 2 filters on their tank, they clean one of them every two weeks, which works out to each filter being cleaned every 4 weeks. If you are cleaning them every two weeks, only thing I would be doing is switching out filter floss. This become even more important if you are using AquaSoil and stirring/dusting up the substrate on a regular bases.


I agree every tank is different. I tend to be on the excessive side. But I also have a high fish load. I have 2 canister filters and one sump filter on my 55 gallon tank. The canister pads get replaced every two weeks and the sump pads every week. I have 200 Micron filters in them that get replaced and I only clean the bio media once a month. The tank is 99% algae free, except for a few tuffs of BBA on the spray bar nozzles. 

On the other hand a 10 gallon tank I set up for my wife's 1st grade classroom has a canister filter whose pads get replaced every three months. It's low light and algae free.

Really the best for @KZB is too start cleaning the filters more often and get a feel for how dirty the pads are getting. If they're nice and clean at X weeks, then extend the time between cleanings. If the filters are filthy, then start cleaning at shorter intervals.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thanks for your advice. I am definitely going to get into a more regular filter maintenance than once a year LOL. I do weekly 50% water changes. And plan to check on my filter month. Also I use a prefilter that gets cleaned weekly during water change day. Any advice on best bang for the buck on filter pads for my Ehiem classic 2215?


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

I get most of my Eheim pads from the seller LTWHome on **eBay. I've been please with the quality and shipping time.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thanks Ken I'm gonna take a look at that.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

KZB said:


> Thanks for your advice. I am definitely going to get into a more regular filter maintenance than once a year LOL. I do weekly 50% water changes. And plan to check on my filter month. Also I use a prefilter that gets cleaned weekly during water change day. Any advice on best bang for the buck on filter pads for my Ehiem classic 2215?


I recommend purchasing bulk filter floss just cut it into the shape you need. That is all I ever used in all my filters and have not had any issues at all including a 2215 and 2217.

I know 2215's don't have baskets, but for those that have baskets in their filters you can also try pillow stuffing commonly called Poly Fill bought buy the bag full from places like Walmart, throw a wod in the basket and it works just as well as any after market filter pad at a fraction of the cost.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Wow that looks like a great deal, will never have to buy filter pads again. So that would be all I would need in my filter? Besides the mech and substrat pro. Thanks slipfinger


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

KZB said:


> Wow that looks like a great deal, will never have to buy filter pads again. So that would be all I would need in my filter? Besides the mech and substrat pro. Thanks slipfinger


Pretty much....

I set mine up with stock course media on the bottom, seachem matrix (which I have in a mesh bag for ease of removal) I believe another course pad and finally filter floss. It could be just the Matrix and then filter floss, can't remember exactly how I set it up since its been about 5 weeks since I cleaned. BTW this tank is showing signs of BBA, wonder why!

There are many ways people set the filter up, I think Eheim suggests bio rings on the bottom then the course pad, then bio media and finally filter floss.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

Another method is course filter on bottom, then medium filter pad, then fine filter pad and the bio media on top. This what I do. Because the water flow is from bottom to top, having the filter pads on the bottom picks up the detritus before it gets to the bio-media and the bio-media stays clean. Rarely do I have to clean the bio-media, and this makes it easier and quicker when cleaning the filter.

@slipfinger 's recommendation for poly fill is a good recommendation. Just make sure you don't get the non-flammable kind because fire-retardant chemicals have been added. The flammable kind is easy to get a hold of, it's usually right next to the non-flammable type. The bulk filter material works out great also.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you for all the great info slipfinger and Ken. Priceless


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just a little update photo after rearranging and removing some stem plants.Trimmed and planted some staurogyne around the corner. Also added some osmocote plus tabs. In Hope's to bring my stauro back to a nice lush look. Also 2nd light comes in tomorrow. Let's see if it will help me get better colors out of the plants, maybe giving me a broader range of plants I can grow.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Did a big water change on Saturday. Removed more stem plants and vacuumed the gravel where they use to be. It was absolutely filthy. Good thing i decided to change up the stem plants. The 2nd light really started helping getting colors out of my reds and even the bucephalandras. In the 2 weeks I had it. I'm stoked on that. Also happy with the help I got from OVT and Immortal on the proper lighting adjustments. Now the tank doesn't look so white washed. Thank you guys.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I hope everyone is having a Happy Thanksgiving. Enjoy the days with family and friends.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Since adding the 2nd light, my plants are growing nice but my bba out break I had after my filter cleaning is still lingering. I spot treat with Metricide. My co2 is on 1 hour before lights and turn off at the same time. 7 hour period of lights. I am sure it wasn't the best time to add more light. I stay viligant on removing dead leaves from the tank daily when o dose ferts. Also trying to find new co2 and fert balance since adding light. Also removed a lot of stem plants, which I am adding new ones tomorrow. Hopefully they will help out compete with the bba. I trimmed a lot of leaves off that were overwhelmed with algae. I hope win this war soon.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Water change day. Did a lot of trimming and thinning down of some plants. Turned down my white light to 50% from 60%. Also added some stem plants today. I hope these adjustments helps my war with bba.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I tested Nitrates today with api kit. It's been months since i tested. And i am glad i did. The test showed 40-80ppm nitrates looks closer to 80. Gonna skip out on dosing nitrates until the levels simmer down a quite a bit. Glad there were no fish or cray deaths.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

My Rams are going to be happy. I think theres 3 or 4 berried.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

So far I tested
Ppm
0 ammonia
0 nitrite
40-80 nitrates
100 calcium
Kh 12
Gh 12

Thats it for now. I need to get more test kits. Going to stop dosing nitrates, maybe my fish and fish food got me covered there. Also removed the sponge from my prefilter to see if that had any roll on my high nitrates. Well my high nitrates may explain why my ludwigia super red are now super green.


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## akd200 (Sep 22, 2014)

I noticed a plant that hitched hiked into my 55 in your last photo. It is the wispy tall one on the back left. The characteristic thing about this plant is how it breaks apart so easily. What I'm wondering is what it is called.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello akd200. If your talking about the plant behind the shrimp. That plant is called Ludwigia Diamond. Thats according to buceplant.com. But next to my Ludwigia Repens they look identical. 
Hope this helps


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

KZB said:


> So far I tested
> Ppm
> 0 ammonia
> 0 nitrite
> ...


I won't be so quick to blame high nitrates for L. Super Red turning green. Yes some Ludwigia varieties will turn redder under nitrate limitations but from what I understand Super Red is not one of them. 

Maybe its not the Super Red variety you thought is was, or maybe its not happy with the amount of light in your tank?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello Slipfinger do you think i dont have high enough light for my ludwigia red? Should i turn my white light higher?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I not only have bba, but brown algae seems to be taking over my staurogyne repens. Idk if adding osmocote plus tabs has anything to do with it. Or from me replanting?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Tested Nitrates again today. I skipped nitrate dosing so far, removed the sponge from my pre filter and still my nitrates are showing closer to the 80ppm range. At 12 gh I am experiencing leaf tip, and curling. Added 2 tsp Caso4 to see if it helps.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I seem to be losing my algae war. Lowered my RGB to 90% and raised my co2 to the point my guppies are gasping but everyone else is fine. Haven't gotten around to calibrating my PH pen yet though. Planted some Ludwigia Peruensis that were all green with red stems about a week ago. Today I found the top leaves are turning pink. I dont know if that's normal.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

KZB said:


> Hello Slipfinger do you think i dont have high enough light for my ludwigia red? Should i turn my white light higher?


Sorry I didn't see this. If you want to call someone out add @ in front of their username and they will get notified, like this. @slipfinger

As for light, what are the dimensions of your tank and how high off the substrate do you have your light?



KZB said:


> I not only have bba, but brown algae seems to be taking over my staurogyne repens. Idk if adding osmocote plus tabs has anything to do with it. Or from me replanting?


This is a tough one. Lots of people go and add gel caps full of O+ around their tanks. Here is where the problems begin, we have no control over the release rate of O+. Yes its considered a slow release/time released what ever you want to call it, but its truly not meant to be completely submerged in water. So we really have no clue how much nutrients are being released into the water at any given time, disturbing the substrate near the root tab could and probably does make matters worse.

Here's a suggestion... In the future its probably better to add a few individual balls of the actual O+ around plants that seem to be struggling. This way you are directing the nutrients right to the roots of the plants that need it, in turn adding less product and avoiding a major nutrient spike. 

I'm not saying that O+ is your issue, but if you've gone and over dosed it with the mentality that may plants are struggling so 'more is better' then it could well be your issue. 

Another suggestion. Edit your first post and list all your tanks info in an easy to read format, something like this;

37 gal 24"W x 12"D x 24"H
Sat Pro 24" from substrate 
Substrate: ............
Fliter: ..........
Any Parameters that you know like, GH/KH


Doing this allows people to quickly see and find your tanks details. Anyways its just a suggestion, in the end its your journal and you can do as you please.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Today I added about an inch + of Eco complete to try and get the osmocote+ tabs deeper. Even ended up burying some staurogyne repens. Desperate times calls for desperate measures.
@slipfinger thanks for the advice pal. I edited my intro into my thread.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

After stopping my dosing of Nitrates for about 2 weeks and 2 50% water changes my nitrates are down to approximately 20ppm from 40-80ppm. Also had a chance to test phosphates today its at 3ppm. I thought it might have been higher

Did a midweek water change. On Weds and doing my typical Sat water change today. Than will take new test. I think my bba and brown algae is finally going down.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Changed water today along with filter pads. Also cut and reinstalled my spray bar so it fits widths wise in the tank creating a nice even ripple across the length of the tank. I hope this helps togive me better circulation through the tank. Before I did this. I haven't been using my spray bar and was just letting the output come out of the pipe aimed from 1 corner to the opposite corner of the tank.

Nitrite/Ammonia 0
Nitrate 20
Gh 10
Kh 10
Phosphate 2 or 3


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## Ankhari (Apr 30, 2018)

If you're an amateur, there needs to be a category three or four levels below that to describe my tank. It's a roundabout way of saying your tank is really lovely. Please post more.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you for the kind [email protected]

I read some where that Tom Barr puts his plants with bba in another tank free of bba to rid it of the algae. So I tried it myself. I wasnt too confident about it, thinking it could end with 2 tanks with bba. But its been maybe over a week since I put 1 of my bucephalandra plants in my kids shrimp tank. And believe it or not, the plant no longer has bba. Btw my kids shrimp tank is low light no ferts the lights are turned on and off manually so they can be on around 12+ hours. But it is planted and has a bunch of floaters. I did this as an experiment and wouldn't reccomend for anyone else to try it. Wasn't too worried cause if the tank did accumulate bba it's only 2 gallons, and a few plants I could pull out and spray with h202. Just wanted to share my experience.

As far as my main tank, I have lowered the RGB to 80 and my white light to 65. Also pulled some plants and treatedwith h202. With a lot of in tank cleaning and trimming. I think I am finally getting the upper hand against bba.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Its Saturday and just did my water change. After reading bunch of members journals. I have been working on keeping my tank as clean as possible. Removing and dead or dying leaves, thoroughly cleaning glass and gravel and spraying equipment with h202, cleaning or replacing filter pads. It is a great practice for any plantedtank keeper to do. It is right up there with the importance of circulation and balance of ferts, lights and co2.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just an update photo, after over a month of rearranging, trimming, and thinning down and removing failing plants. White stuff on the gravel is caso4 I been adding after water change. I think my mg might be high so trying to give it the proper ratio. Anyone out that care to calculate my mg for me that would be great. My gh and kh is 10, and calcium 100.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

My Staurogyne repens took the hardest hit from my algae bloom. I trimmed and removed alot. The diatoms smothered and started to cause a lot of leaf melt. That's aside from me burying some when I raised the substrate because I felt my osmocote + tabs weren'g buried deep enough. On the plus side i see a lot of healthy new growth on the staurogyne, so I feel it will come back nicely, hopefully nicer. Since now i am running co2. The carpet that just got killed by diatoms and buried alive was grown with Metricide. Which didnt look too bad. But the leaves could have been fuller and thicker. Which i am hoping to achieve with co2.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Did approximately a 70% water change today and cleaned my filter. Also shot in tank equipment with h202. Algae is almost non existent now after dealing with bba and brown algae the past month or so. During the war I had decreased light intensity, which I been slowly increasing as i been watching the decrease in algae. I created better circulation in the tank, upped my co2 and been keeping the tank as clean as possible. Removed all hardscape and treated with h202. I think it took all of these steps to beat it. My fert dosing remained the same except I no longer dose nitrates, my fish and fish food seem to have that covered.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Snapped a picture of some Ghost Cats out.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)




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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I guess I jinxed my self when I said I am winning the bba battle. It's the 2nd time after a filter cleaning did i have a bba outbreak. Well time to put out the fire again.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I did about 70% water change today. Also soaked my filter hoses in h202. I come to realize the how much of an effect of keeping things as clean as possible and plants well groom has in this hobby. Not only in a fight against algae but in the hobbyist psych. I feel alot better about the tank when I am sitting there looking and absorbing how the plants and animals are doing. The little effort in keeping the tank really clean has a big pay off. 

My staurogyne is bouncing back really nice after suffering the plague of diatoms and bba. My stem plants are also showing nice colors. I am really happy at the quick progress and seeing the difference from metricide to co2, to double the lighting.

I know I don't have everything perfected or near it. But do understand The Beast Is In The Detail.


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

KZB said:


> Just an update photo, after over a month of rearranging, trimming, and thinning down and removing failing plants. White stuff on the gravel is caso4 I been adding after water change. I think my mg might be high so trying to give it the proper ratio. Anyone out that care to calculate my mg for me that would be great. My gh and kh is 10, and calcium 100.


 The above picture of your tank looks pretty good. As for your question, I am curious how you determined the Ca level to be 100? According to the calculations I have been using, with a GH of 10 that would put your Mg level at -17 which is not really possible. 



The calculation I use is a follows:
((17.48 * your dGH) - (2.5 * your measured Ca level)) divided by 4.1 will tell you how much Mg you have.


Also, the API Ca test kit can test for 0, 5, 10, 15 or 20 ppm Ca depending on how you use it.


Get 20ml of aquarium water, add 5 drops of #1 solution to it and mix. Then start adding 1 drop at a time of #2 solution and watch for a color change. (I prefer to use a clear glass container sitting over a white paper towel - helps to make the color change more noticable)
Each grop of #2 solution equals 5ppm calcium


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @Immortal1. I use Api calcium test kit.Using 5ml of water. It takes 5 drops of the #2solution to turn the water to blue. The Api instructions says each drop is 20 ppm? I could be totally wrong, but I just wanted to share.

Also tested 
nitrates 20ppm
Phosphates 5

My nitrates seem to have stabilized at 20ppm since I stopped dosing KN03.


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

KZB said:


> Hello @*Immortal1*. I use Api calcium test kit.Using 5ml of water. It takes 5 drops of the #2solution to turn the water to blue. The Api instructions says each drop is 20 ppm? I could be totally wrong, but I just wanted to share.
> 
> Also tested
> nitrates 20ppm
> ...



Interesting on the API Ca test. Just making assumptions here as I know I have made MANY mistakes in the past - with your 5ml of tank water you add in the correct amount of solution #1 then cap and shake. Then add in 1 drop of solution #2, cap and shake. You should get a pink color. Keep adding in 1 drop at a time, capping and shaking between each drop. And it still takes 5 drops to get to some form of blue?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Immortal1 said:


> [
> Interesting on the API Ca test. Just making assumptions here as I know I have made MANY mistakes in the past - with your 5ml of tank water you add in the correct amount of solution #1 then cap and shake. Then add in 1 drop of solution #2, cap and shake. You should get a pink color. Keep adding in 1 drop at a time, capping and shaking between each drop. And it still takes 5 drops to get to some form of blue?


Correct. Am I doing something wrong? Please correct me if I am.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

KZB said:


> Also tested
> nitrates 20ppm
> Phosphates 5
> 
> My nitrates seem to have stabilized at 20ppm since I stopped dosing KN03.


Just curious.....is 20ppm NO3 your goal? And if so, why?


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

KZB said:


> Correct. Am I doing something wrong? Please correct me if I am.


Not necessarily saying your doing something wrong - just saying mathmatically that 100ppm Ca and 0ppm Mg would result in just over 14dGH.


Now, given that your tank pic looks pretty good, I would guess your water is not 100ppmCa / 0ppm Mg. Many succesful tanks would be closer to a 3:1 to 4:1 ratio of Ca:Mg. And, generally speaking, the Gh of most tap water will be made up of >95% Ca & Mg (there are usually some other minerals in tap water that contribute to General Hardness, but offer very little contribution).


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @Greggz. About 2 months or so ago I had around 80ppm of nitrates which I didnt know what caused it. Maybe my dirty filter, my old gravel, the amount of live stock i had or my no3 dosing. It took about a month of not dosing no3 and my typical once a week water 50%+ changes to bring it down. Yes I am trying to keep my nitrates in the 20ppm or less range to see how my plants respond. Do you think it's a bad idea? I always had problems trying to keep my red plants red. But I also have new variables as I added co2 and another light that could help my red plants. I do understand with the higher light I will probably need to be keeping higher fert levels in my water column to try to keep a balance. What are your thoughts and recommendations?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @Immortal1, I been dealing with calcium like deficiencies in my ludwigia repens leaves. So I raised my calcium with cas04 and iron from seachem to try to correct it. The leaf tip has gone away. But now the leaves are curling the other way lol. I need to take some photos. To get some help diagnosing.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

KZB said:


> Yes I am trying to keep my nitrates in the 20ppm or less range to see how my plants respond. Do you think it's a bad idea? I always had problems trying to keep my red plants red. But I also have new variables as I added co2 and another light that could help my red plants. I do understand with the higher light I will probably need to be keeping higher fert levels in my water column to try to keep a balance. What are your thoughts and recommendations?


Red plants not being red is almost always related to light. 

Look through some journals here of folks successful with high tech tanks. You'll see plenty of red plants, and N levels quite a bit higher than yours. In general, plants show the most intense color when happy, well fed, and exposed to high light. 

And in general, if you are adding more light and CO2, it will drive demand for more ferts. IMO, more issues are the result of too little, not too many ferts.


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

KZB said:


> Hello @*Immortal1*, I been dealing with calcium like deficiencies in my ludwigia repens leaves. So I raised my calcium with cas04 and iron from seachem to try to correct it. The leaf tip has gone away. But now the leaves are curling the other way lol. I need to take some photos. To get some help diagnosing.


As crazy as it may sound, you probably don't have a calcium deficiency. As I have learned (beaten'd in to my head over and over again), various minerals in our glass boxes can be very antagonistic to each other. In other words, your plants "show" a calcium deficiency because XX is too high which requires more CA to be in the water column to make it available to the plants. Something called Mulders Chart shows how this all works. Not that I fully understand it, but it does show it


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @Greggz @Immortal1
I do understand lack of ferts causes more problems. I am gonna avoid my experiment of going under 20ppm no3, I will keep it around 20-40 range. I also looked at the Mulders Chart. That's a whole new animal for me to get into. I felt at my already fairly high GH level that I was pretty much using a sledgehammer to drive a pin nail by adding even more calcium. Experimentation and all the small tweaks and adjustments is what keeps the hobby for me fun and keeps me coming back. But I will always take advice and learn from other people. It's what makes the TPT community great. Btw do you guys mind sharing your water parameters with me, so I have something to reach for?


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

I agree with @Immortal1, 100 ppm for calcium seems way high. What are you using to dose Ca?


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

KZB said:


> It's what makes the TPT community great. Btw do you guys mind sharing your water parameters with me, so I have something to reach for?


Parameters are being shared regularly, mostly in journals here. 

And what works best in one tank may not in another. That being said, below are mine. Gives an idea of what some us are tracking. 










And I also highly doubt your Ca is 100ppm. If it is, would mess with lots of other things.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

Here's my parameters.









For Greggz's parameters, his WC are 67%. Because of the increase over 50%, his tank won't have the buildup like your's or mine will have at 50%. When I compare his values with mine, I multiply his numbers by 70% to obtain a 50% WC equivalent. If he's dosing at 100ppm, that's equivalent to 70 ppm at 50% water changes.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @Greggz @Ken Keating1. My macro levels are very similar to Greggz. I need to double check my dgh, dkh and Calcium to see where those stand at the moment. I will post updates soon

I use CSMB and seachem iron. I been thinking of changing to Miller complex. But not sure yet.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Todays test. Day after water change. These are all done with API test kits

DGh 10
Dkh 6
Calcium 60
Phosphates 5
Nitrates 20


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

KZB said:


> Todays test. Day after water change. These are all done with API test kits
> 
> DGh 10
> Dkh 6
> ...


Those numbers look much better! And also very close to my tap water parameters (me, tap=11dGH, 7dKH, 50ppm CA). Dosing phosphate around 6ppm. Nitrate dosed to 26-28ppm


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

I still think your Ca ppm values are incorrect. You're dosing with CaSO4, correct? If so, can you make up an comparison solution with distilled water to a known ppm and then test and see if your test result matches the comparison solution ppm value? As an example, make a solution of 5 gallons of distilled or RODI water with 1/4 tsp of CaSO4.2H20. The Ca ppm of that solution will be 10ppm. You can calculate other solutions by using *Rotala Butterfly*. The reason for this test is to see if your testing kit in providing correct results.


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## chicken.nublet (Mar 29, 2018)

KZB said:


> I did about 70% water change today. Also soaked my filter hoses in h202. I come to realize the how much of an effect of keeping things as clean as possible and plants well groom has in this hobby. Not only in a fight against algae but in the hobbyist psych. I feel alot better about the tank when I am sitting there looking and absorbing how the plants and animals are doing. The little effort in keeping the tank really clean has a big pay off.
> 
> My staurogyne is bouncing back really nice after suffering the plague of diatoms and bba. My stem plants are also showing nice colors. I am really happy at the quick progress and seeing the difference from metricide to co2, to double the lighting.
> 
> I know I don't have everything perfected or near it. But do understand The Beast Is In The Detail.


I feel the same way. I always look forward to Saturday because that's when I do my water changes :icon_lol:


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Here is the Ludwigia Repens showing some type of deficiency. My GH and Calcium already on the high side but I cant seem to pin point what's causing the curling leaves.

Thank you @Immortal1 that makes me feel better about my test results.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

@Ken Keating1 thank you for sharing that website with me. Looks like a very useful tool to have in this hobby.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I been doing lots of adjustments with my circulation this past couple months. Trying to eliminate any dead spots. Today I think I finally found the sweet spot for my Koralia 240. I also moved my co2 diffuser. Hopefully now i have c02 moving nicely throughout the tank. I will post an update photo. To see what you guys think


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## rick dale (Feb 26, 2014)

I see you have 2 satellite plus pro lights. Are you using both on this tank ? And if you are , how high do you have them cranked up ? I have one on my 60 gallon tank.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @rick dale. Red 100 Green 90 Blue 95 White 70. I recently been dealing with BBA. I have been slowly increasing my RGB and White lights. I had them down RGB at 80 and White at 60. When I was fighting it. Slowly getting getting them back up. Will probably settle at RGB at 100 and White 75-80.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Update showing my new and hopefully improved circulation method


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## rick dale (Feb 26, 2014)

Thanks for the reply KZB. Glad to see I’m not the only one up in the middle of the night . Love your tank. Very nice!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @rick dale. Its my for ever evolving project.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Update photos

dec 29



Jan 9



Ludwigia white almost fully transitioned. Althernatha Variegated vitro, the 1 growing nice i believe is getting the best lighting. the others maybe getting shadowed. I will move them and see happens. Also fighting more algae ibelieved caused from transitioning plants dropping tons of leaves too much organics.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just posting close up of my tree and some stems. I am still waiting for my Nanjenshen to transition.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just wanted to post some par readings done with a Seneye Reef. Will take more later. I need to make a sensor holder. I took these with my arm in the water, which moves my lights back. 

Lights: 2 Current USA +Pros set at 100%RGB 60%White. Also added 2 bars of Red Blue Leds running 100%

I apologize for the bad photography, trying to hold sensor and take pictures not so easy

Also keep on mind my filter is still running during these test. I will take more, once I make a sensor holder. And the filter will be off.

Top of my Tree



Middle/Middle

https
://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/GmrHiN.jpg

Middle/Substrate


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Ok I did some new par testing. With same light settings. Also i know I said i would make a sensor holder, but instead I used a selfie stick which worked great. The filter is off, the light fixtures are sitting where they would normally sit, since mow my arm isnt pushing them to the back of the tank.

Top of tree



Middle/middle




Middle/Substrate, variable here is my lights are now directly above the sensor, as of before test the lights were pushed back. Also my sensor holder aka selfie stick holdsthe sensor above substrate approximately 1"



And selfie stick in action


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Btw my actual light setting as of today is
Both Current +pros are 100%RGB 60% White 6 hours, dropped the RedBlues from 100% 3hours, to 50% 6 hours. Will work on the RBs and see where my tank is happiest. But for now 50% is ok. Will report back.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I am getting some different growth in my Glandulosa and Rotundifolia. I hope someone reading can tell me what is causing. The glandulosa leaves are drooping, which they use to be nice and straight. The Rotundifolia stem bent sideways.






I noticed the Rotundifolia issue when i added the red blue led lights and had them running at 100%. Recently dropped them to 50%. I think the stems are correcting them selves now. As far the Glandulosa, I noticed the drooping after I started adding Mg, to correct my ludwigia leaf curling. I thought looked like a Mg deficiency. Well I would love to get some advice on this.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

And the saga continues. Moved some things around. I think im Iiking it.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

After taking my par readings I wanted to get my tree lower. I am hoping the buce do better now there not getting torched. Also after moving things around i gained more real estate. Now I can grow more Staurogyne Repens and have options for other plants. With the open center it has a better feel to it. I guess the question is now, what plants should i add?? I like the open feel so I was thinking of mid to low growing.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I did another water change today. Did 1 during my last tank adjustment. My tank wasnt as clean as I thought it was. The amount of filth that came up after moving the seiryu stones wasnt a pretty sight to see. But I am glad it did it. During todays water change i trimmed some staurogyne and replanted. I am almost amazed at how much trimming i get even the staurogyne looks so small I got decent cuttings enough to be planted atleast. I removedthe nanjenshen I guess it just wasnt ment to be. Also got some Pogosteman helferi 'red from Mr.Burr. I really hope I am capable of growing them successfully. I tried a vitro version before and failed. So this is round 2 but with a much better start. Thanks too @burr740. Today I siphoned the area where i had the stones really good to make sure i got everything I may have missed on Wednesday and cleaned the filter. So now I think i can say I got a really clean tank. Atleast for now.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Just an update photo. The Glandulosa drooping leaves went away. I raised my Mg dosing to 2 teaspoons at water change. I did that on Wednesday and today I noticed the leaves straightened out.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Today I installed NilocG Intense Atomic Inline Co2 Atomizer Diffuser. Super stoked. The bubbles are so much finer than my previous diffuser I was using. Now I just need to calibrate my co2 settings make sure all the plants are happy. Also trimmed my Red Tiger Lotus I think that's what its called. It's my indestructible plant. Survived through all my (previous) trials and tribulations, also had cut all the leaves down to the gravel but she always bounces back.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

*KZB Amateur journal*

Still signs of lingering bba, they are dead just none of my clean up crew ate them yet, aka my 2 Otos,nerites,ramhorns.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Today is my water change day. I decided to try front loading macros. I realize I dose quite a bit of K. Here is what I dosed according to rotallabutterfly. 

No3 30 ppm
N 6.76 ppm
K 38.08 ppm
S 6.16 ppm
P04 7.8 ppm
P 2.52 ppm
Also added 20ppm Mg...My calcium test 80ppm, trying to reach 1/4 ratio. I will also be dosing Seachem iron every day. Assuming it won't be binding with the phosphates now I dont have to skip dosage like my typical macro micro alternating dosing schedule. 

Also added a 3rd led strip of red and blues. Which again are on 1 hour after lights and stay on for only 3 hours. So far the plants are happy and no noticeable algae reaction from it.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

My weekly accumulated Micro dose. Through Plantex Csmb and Iron Chelate. Also added my ph

Fe 1.2
Mn 0.171
Cu 0.009
Mg 0.129
Zn 0.11
Mo 0.006
B 0.075
dGH 0.03
Ph 7.17 before co2
Ph 5.97 peak co2
Total 1.2 drop


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

It's only Wednesday but so far so good on the macro front load. No signs of new algae, or noticeable plant deficiencies. I think I will stick with it. Maybe next dose, I will go with a little less K. See what happens. I also dose micros every day in split dosage, compared to my typical every other day dosing of micros. My goal right now win my 2nd round with Ludwigia White and Downoi. I failed the first round. About a year or 2 ago.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Some close ups. Little bit of pearling







And the usual FTS


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

My Flamingo Crypt has to be the safest plant in my tank. It's been in there over 2 months and just doesnt budge. Not giving up yet, it's still alive but stagnant. Maybe grew a leaf or 2, after losing a few from transition.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

KZB said:


> My Flamingo Crypt has to be the safest plant in my tank. It's been in there over 2 months and just doesnt budge. Not giving up yet, it's still alive but stagnant. Maybe grew a leaf or 2, after losing a few from transition.


I acquired three flamingos 5 weeks ago, similar growth rate, little to no growth. Not sure what makes them grow faster, I need to do some research. 

The plants in your tank are really getting their color, it's looking nice!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @Ken Keating1. This past few months. Is the most effort I have ever put into my tank. Getting into testing parameters,even par, ph, using Rotalabutterfly and just staying on top of maintenance. Thanks to members the of TPT.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Haven't done my water change yet. I did test phosphate and nitrate with APi test kits. My phosphate is in between 5-10. I dont really like the big jump increments that Api test kit have. My nitrate is back at 80ppm. This week after front dosing macros I been getting gsa. Going to adjust my dosing this time around and see how it goes. Will post back later with what I decided to go with.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Well I did my water change approximately 75%. Although I was planning to put less Potasium and Phosphates I screwed up and put the same amount of Potasium as last week. I did manage to remember and this time I put 5.2 p04 instead of 7.8. Other wise everything was dosed the same. 

On the plus side I refilled my co2 tank today and I bought (my son picked, proud daddy) 6 Snakeskin Barbs, I know they start to look really nice once they mature. Also got some Red Cabomba and Rotala H'ra. Goal is to keep the Cabomba red and of course keep my sons Snakeskin Barbs alive as well. Wanted to add a new texture with the Cabomba fuzzy looking leaves.

Red and blue led bars are now on for 6 hours which is my total photoperiod along with the 2 Satellite +pros. Going to aim for a bigger ph drop.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Next water change dosing plan.

Kno3 0ppm I test my nitrates and it is around 80ppm, it seems to climb on me. Last time i skipped dosing kn03 for I think it was 2 weeks to get it down to the 20ppm range

K 21.62ppm

P04 3.9ppm I test with api tank is at 5ppm, but I am getting gsa. I use to dose a lot more p04 before with little to no gsa. So I dont know if the tank is adjusting to front loading, or if I need to dose more p04. The good thing about front loading less, is I can always add more during the week.

P 1.6ppm

Mg 3 tsp=1500mg. I have been miscalculating my mg in ppm. I use Magnesium Sulfate aka epsom salt. Which i dont think is listed in rottalabutterfly


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Got some new hardware tonight. An American Pinpoint ph controller. Looking forward to setting it up tomorrow before my water change. I cant remember the thread title or the poster. But I remember it saying they had the Pinpoint for 12 years. So that's reassuring, that it's a good product. After refilling my co2 tank, I am having a hard time getting my ph drop where it use to be. So hoping the controller will get be back in tune, this time and for future co2 refills. Will update tomorow, will probably be asking questions too.


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## Uncle_R (Jan 31, 2018)

Epson salt is MgSO4·7H2O in rotala butterfly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @Uncle_R. Now I now what I am dosing in Mg in ppm. 

Today I did approximately 75% water change. Also thanks to the help from @Greggz. I was able to set up my American Pinpoint Ph Controller. I did something a little different though, and i dont know how well it works or if I am going to keep it this way. I have the timer which my co2 regulator is on, connected to the outlet on my Pinpoint. Currently my Ph is 7.20, the high setting is 6.20, the low is at 6.00. My target oh drop is 1.1. Will work on getting this higher, if my fish will let me. Also did a dosing for my front loading today. After testing my nitrates multiple times during the week I was at 80ppm, today after water change I am around 20-40. Also made an adjustment to my K. Only dosed from Ks204 and the little bit from Kh2p04. I am still experiencing gsa, I cant tell if its cause I lowered my p04 dosing or if the tank is adjusting to front loading. I may raise the p04 dose, since this is not the first time experiencing gsa, and every time before, raising p04 made it go away. 


5 tsp mg approx 20ppm mg 
S 32.20 ppm
Zero kno3
5.2 p04
P 1.68 ppm
K 17.16


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

And with water change day, comes update photos. These are some if my new tenants. Wasnt easy getting a decent picture.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Been really watching my fishes behavior since it's my first time running ph controller. I managed to work my ph drop to 1.3. Also been so use to seeing micro co2 bubbles for so long, it's nice to see the tank with the only bubbles being pearling, everytime the solenoid is shut off. Did a api kh test today, did 2 test tubes and both were 4dkh.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

KZB said:


> And with water change day, comes update photos. These are some if my new tenants. Wasnt easy getting a decent picture.


Great photos KZB! Looking back at your photos from Nov 18 I see a huge difference in plant color, trimming and overall plant health, the tank is really coming along nicely!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @Ken Keating1, that means a lot coming from a guy like you. I agree the tank is coming along, I give the credit to the members here for sharing their experiences, and helping 1 another. Lately I just been trying putting the effort from what I learn here and trying to give more attention to detail, better maintenance. 

I am just glad my wife let's me do all this. Hence the amount of reds and colors I try to add in the tank. The dwarf crayfish and fish selection is from my kids. Just trying to keep everyone happy.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Ken Keating1 said:


> Great photos KZB! Looking back at your photos from Nov 18 I see a huge difference in plant color, trimming and overall plant health, the tank is really coming along nicely!


+1.

Getting better all the time. 

Very, very nicely done.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

KZB said:


> Thank you @Ken Keating1
> 
> I am just glad my wife let's me do all this. Hence the amount of reds and colors I try to add in the tank. The dwarf crayfish and fish selection is from my kids. Just trying to keep everyone happy.


Luckily I'm in the same boat. I'm fortunate my wife let's me have my "aquarium time".

Funny, my kids seem not to look at the aquarium that much and jokingly give me a bad time about me spending too much time with the aquarium. But when they're friends come over to visit, within five minutes of their arrival, my kids will say, "hey, let me show you my dad's aquarium", at which point I just sort of laugh to myself knowing that they're enjoying it a little more than what they'll admit to.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Greggz said:


> +1.
> 
> Getting better all the time.
> 
> Very, very nicely done.


Thank you @Greggz, and thanks again for helping me with Ph Controller. You saved me so much time and trouble.


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## LRJ (Jul 31, 2014)

This tank has come a long way FAST. Nicely done! Love that Ludwigia glandulosa.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @LRJ in the past 4 months I added some new equipment to my tank. Co2, 2nd Satellite + pro, 3 red and blue led strips, and most recently and probably last piece of equipment is my ph controller. Some other changes which I consider big changes, is the thorough maintenance, testing parameters, and knowing how much I am actually dosing. Which I was dosing way too much ferts before. Now it's a matter of getting my ferts and co2 really dialed in. For the past 5 years or so I was in the hobby, I was stuck in the mode of watch the tank and make adjustments as needed, with it knowing what was really in the water. (Bad habit) although I feel it can be done that way, but it would take a life time to really get it. With my patience level, I couldn't wait that long. Lol.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

The last couple days i been working on tuning my regulator to push my ph control center line set point. 1.4ph drop, but need to confirm my actual degassed ph. I will let a cup of tank water sit for a day and test it. The first few days or so I made the mistake of turning up my co2 at my regulator and letting my controller do the work. Which was a bad idea. Co2 fluctuating because the controller would be continuously turning on and off the regulator. Live and learn.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Did a pretty big water change today. About 80%+ and a filter cleaning. Some plant trimming and thinning down. Removed the tree and rock and vacuumed the substrate under it. It's been a month since I did, sure was filthy. I need to doing it every water change.

Still messing around with amount dosed front loading. I am seeing the most gsa ever in my tank. But reading what looks like 10 ppm phosphates with api test. That was before water change. After water change I am maybe 5 ppm. Going to skip phosphate dosing today and see what happens. In the past when gsa would pop up, I just dosed more Phosphates and it would go away. That was also done without testing. That time I was also dosing triple EI range for phosphates. With the thought more is better. This time I am doing the opposite. If it gets worst I could always dose during the week. 

Also dealing with Ich in my tank. Probably caused by me adding too much fish at once without quarantine. Seem to always shoot myself in the foot. Using Kordons Ridich Plus. I hope it works


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

FTS after yesterday's trim. Need to work on my trim skills lol. Personally dont like when the tops of my plants are in the same plane. I like when the plants heights have ups and downs and whoopty dooos, like keeping a planted tank. Also dealing with gsa. Hope to get it sorted out soon, on the plus side it seems to have stop spreading, and also my staurogyne carpet is almost full, maybe another month or so.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Small update, just wanted to say I am really happy with my Ph controller. Only had it for a few weeks and I am wondering why I didnt get 1 before. I have a topless tank so I deal with evaporation. With the evaporation I either have to daily top off or push my spray bar down. Doing that always made me worry that, I was creating unstable co2 and circulation condition in my tank. Due to creating more or less surface agitation. Now I know where my co2 levels are at, just more peace of mind having the controller.


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## Looney (Feb 21, 2019)

Very Nice tank. 
Just read most of the thread Because your change from blind EI’ing to dosing certAin ppm’s is where I am at now. 

How did you place the ph controller? Is it in the tank, fully submerged? How do you keep iT wet during waterchange? I’m looking to buy the same one.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @Looney, if you look at the picture above it's it's the blue pipe in the top right next to my filter intake. When I do water change, I just leave the probe is a cup of water. I never had it long, but I read some members here calibrate the probe once a month. Gonna get into the habit of doing it myself.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Gsa still not residing. I remember when i was blind dosing ei. I was dosing 10ppm of phosphates, never had a problem with gsa. I am gonna go back to that ppm and see where it takes me. Also spent a little time looking at the Mulders Chart. So it makes sense for me to dose more phosphates, with calcium at 60ppm. The roller coaster ride continues.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Today I did an 80%+ water change. An attempt to reset my tank. I am going back to my phosphate dosing amount, 10ppm that I was doing before. Also dosing Nitrates again 20ppm. My tank doesnt respond well when I tried to lean dose both p04 and kno3. 

Did another trim and thin today. Also found something quite alarming. I had left some tank water out for 3 maybe 4 days to test ph it read 7.64. Then took at peak at my Ph controller right before water change 7.55. The alarming part with co2 I have been dropping down to 5.75. Which I thought was a 1.4 drop. I guess this whole time I was dropping 2.0ph. All the fish, shrimp and dwarf crays have been fine. My dKh read 4 with api test kit. This cant he normal. I hope to get some feedback and suggestions.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

And of course cant forget my once a week fts shot.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I made a list of the plants in my tank. What I need to do is have a picture and # where the plants are at. But here'sthe list for starters.

Bacopa Caroliniana
Staurogyne Repens
Hydrocotyle Japan
Ludwigia Repens
Ludwigia Glandulosa
Rotala Rotundifolia
Cabomba Red
Ludwigia Peruensis
Hygrophila Pinnatifida
Bucephalandra Red Mini
Bucephalandra Apple leaf
Bucephalandra Pinklady
Bucephalandra Kedagang
The Buces make up my tree and rock
Alternanthera Rosanervig
Hygrophila Siamensis
Ludwigia White
Pogostemon Helferi Red Downoi
Red Tiger Lotus
Ludwigia Sp Red
Rotala 'Vietnam H'ra' 
A Flamingo Crypt hanging on by a thread


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Par reading with photo of screen and location in tank. Keep in mind filter is running, so I have a ripple across the top. Wanted to see actual working par

Substrate middle





Substrate left






Substrate right, substrate is slightly lower also where my filter outflow is






Drop off of light from the center to left and right is pretty significant. 

And bonus


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

Look at that pur too. Nice. Is that a selfie stick? It looks too nice to be a generic one so it's for something else? That has also got to be one of the best ideas to hold that sensor. I've been trying to think of things to use and I thought I was slick to use some old plant support rods.

What's the light configuration again please?

I guess I'm curious of what those red and blue led strips you mentioned a few posts back are.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @ipkiss. Yes it's a selfie stick lol. I wanted to build a holder, my wife recommended i use a selfie stick. So hers went into my tank and I got her a new 1. The selfie stick works perfectly adjustable angles and arm length. I believe we got it at Bestbuy.

The lights are Roleadro 40w Red and Blue led strips. I bought from Amazon. They come in a set of 4 that can be daisy chained but I am currently only using 3. My 2 Satellite pro+ RGB 100% W 70%, the strip lights are double sticky taped to my Satellight pro +. Front middle back of tank, running at 100%. Photoperiod 6 hours.co2 is on for 7.5 hours. 1.5 hours pre lights If you are interested in the strip light send me a PM. As I just looked on Amazon to post the url but couldn't find it.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Wow 132 PAR at the substrate!

Serious number there. 

Did you take the same readings without the filter running? Would be curious to see what they are.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @Greggz, I been meaning to test par with just my Satellite Pros + and separate test just for the Red and Blues. I will take the test with filters off and share the results, as soon as I do.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Here are update testing no filter on. Holding it as close to the same spots as i did previous post. First set 2 Satellite Pro + 


Substrate right


Substrate center


Substrate left


Red Blue strip light 3 bars

Substrate left


Substrate center



Substrate right



Both lights at my working intensity take 2

Substrate left



Substrate center
]

Substrate right 



I apologize for bad photography, but staying still with par meter and looking to make sure I take a picture of all data, is not so easy. Lol


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

@gregg's, my 2nd par reading were taken as close to where I took them the first time. This time with filter off. They were almost the same give or take I missed the placement a inch or so. I dont like how much it drops in the perimeters. But I hope the posting helps any members that may have the same lights. I will take some measuring of the depths, just to get a better info out there.


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

Nice, thanks for the new readings. I don't think filter ripple affected my readings much either. Much like you, around a PAR of 10. It looks like ripples actually added to it?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

@ipkiss the moving water does add variable in it, the placement of the meter too is another thing lol. What I would like to do is to hook my tape measure onto my tank and take reading that way. It would be more helpful for anyone who has the same light but has a tank of a difference depths. 

I did some major trimming of my staurogyne and hydrocotyle jp. The hydrocotyle just grows like a weed and easily can take over other plants. Staurogyne had such dense growth it almost looks like i didnt trim it at all. Next water change I want to make sure i get a really good vacuuming inthe carpet. 

My Flamingo crypt is hanging on by a thread, I pretty much just want to take it out of its misery. I just dont think it will make the transition. It wouldnt be the first plant nor will it be the last plant I failed at growing. On the plus side the Red Downoi I got from @Burr is sending out some healthy babies, although there not growing red I am happy at the fact they are reproducing.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

I was reading through the Share your Dosing thread today. Looking at the par some of the members were using. So i decided to break out my par meter again and brought my white down to 60% to bring my substrate par to 110 still keeping 70pur. When I went to adjust my Satellite Pro+ I realized I had my white lights setting at 85% this whole time. I thought it was at 70% I wonder how long it's been like that lol. I am going to see how this light setting works for me. Will keep you guys updated


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

After todays 80% water change. Did more trimming, and really good gravel vacuuming. I dont know if it's my new fish load but my gravel has been really filthy lately. Kind of concerning if you ask me. But I seen some successful tanks here with more fish than me, so atleast I know it can be done.

Dosed
10ppm po4
30ppm nitrates 
20ppm mg. 1.3 ratio mg/ calcium 
21.08 ppm K. Only from kno3 and kh2po4

Now running approx 100-110par at substrate




This is what I dosed in po4 and nitrates when I was blind dosing. Which worked out, at least against gsa. My plants dont seem to do well under 20ppm nitrates.


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## carlsj2012 (Mar 7, 2019)

Hi @KZB,

Did you ever measure the distance from light to substrate? I too, am running a Satellite +Pro, and have been trying to figure out what my PAR own is at. I only have the one though, so I suspect I'm a little low. 

Loving the journal! Just read through all 10 pages. It's been a fun transformation!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @carlsj2012, thank you my tank is always a roller coaster. I know I can and do shoot my self in the foot with the amount of adjustments I do in a short time. All due to my lack of patience, but it's all a part of my tank therapy lol. That's why I started this journal to look back and see how my plants are doing and what I was doing at the time. Are you running 1 or 2 satellite pro+? If you would like to give me the depth of your substrate and length of your tank. I can take par reading for you and post them in your journal?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

This GSA is taking its toll. I'm trying to back track to find what is causing it. I know it popped its head up when I started front loading, but i also added a bunch of fish at around the same time. I added more phosphates, it seemed to slow it down. Do I add even more? Or do I go back to regular daily dosing? I been doing bigger than my normal water changes per week, could that be causing the gsa too? I figured my substrate is atleast 3 years old, and my filter cleaning is done with tank water, so my tank in theory should be mature enough to handle the big water changes? Well I'm gonna do what we tankers do best and keep rolling with the punches until I figure how to correct it.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

KZB said:


> I been doing bigger than my normal water changes per week, could that be causing the gsa too? I figured my substrate is atleast 3 years old, and my filter cleaning is done with tank water, so my tank in theory should be mature enough to handle the big water changes?


If you start performing larger water changes, your accumulated level of ferts will drop. So less in the water column.

The more water you change, the more you need to dose to keep the ferts at the same level the water column. 

Not saying this has anything to with your situation, but water changes have a large effect accumulated fert levels.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello @Greggz, I understand my accumulation is getting depleted with big water changes. I have a couple of my own theories that could be negatively impacting my tank. I would like you to correct me if I am wrong. 

I use tap water for water changes therefore i use Seschem prime. Is it possible prime is removing what I am front loading?

I also been dosing csmb on the same day. To make sure I still have some in the water column. Is it possible I am losing all or a lot of my phosphates due to fe binding? Does phosphates spreading bonded with fe show up on a phosphate test kit even though its unavailability to plants?


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

KZB said:


> I made a list of the plants in my tank. What I need to do is have a picture and # where the plants are at. But here'sthe list for starters.
> 
> Bacopa Caroliniana
> Staurogyne Repens
> ...


 Dont forget the list of fauna. 
I see a beautiful sword-tail in here.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

KZB said:


> Hello @Greggz, I understand my accumulation is getting depleted with big water changes. I have a couple of my own theories that could be negatively impacting my tank. I would like you to correct me if I am wrong.
> 
> I use tap water for water changes therefore i use Seschem prime. Is it possible prime is removing what I am front loading?
> 
> I also been dosing csmb on the same day. To make sure I still have some in the water column. Is it possible I am losing all or a lot of my phosphates due to fe binding? Does phosphates spreading bonded with fe show up on a phosphate test kit even though its unavailability to plants?


I doubt it has anything at all to do with doing CSM+B on the same day. I have been dosing daily micros for over a year now, and no issues. 

When you said you are changing more water, how much are you changing now? Do you test your NO3/PO4? Have you noticed less in the water column since upping the water change? 

And GSA could very well be the result of your high PAR. Just saying 130+ PAR at the substrate is driving the tank very hard. I could not keep at that high for very long without similar issues. When light is that high, every other single thing must be right......less room for error. 

Are you running that much PAR the entire photo period? And how long is the photo period? While my peak PAR is 110, I ramp up and ramp down so all 6 bulbs are only on for 5 of the 8 hours. 

And CSM+B could be an issue as well. What is your degassed pH? CSM+B uses EDTA while those of us dosing custom micros are dosing DTPA. And there may be other issues with CSM+B. It's very likely not supplying the same mix of micros from batch to batch or dose to dose. It's mixed in huge vats and was developed to be mixed in large volumes for crops. 

The B in CSM is Boron. Boron is one of the trickiest micros to get correct. It has a narrower range that works well in a planted tank. Too little or too much can create issues. Based on your success so far, you are someone who should really consider custom micros to fine tune your system. 

But listen, all in all your tank has been looking great. And we all battle some algae from time to time. So make changes slowly and one at a time. I'd look at light first, then get an idea of how the larger water changes have changed your water column numbers, and maybe consider custom micros.

Good luck and I expect you will have it worked out before long.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you @Greggz, after going though the Dosing Thread, and saw some of pars you guys were using I decided to bring my Satellite Pro+ white lights down to 50% keeping my par down to 100-110 par. As par can vary by 10 per inch height adjustment. My photo period is 6 hours. Degassed ph 7.3-7.4, kh is approximately 4-5, ph drops to 6ph. This past Saturday I received a nee csmb from GLA, the edta+dtpa the boron is now 1.3% from 3.8%. Everything else the same. I will have yo post my micro dosing in ppm. Thank you for your advice and kind words.
@Discusluv i will work on my fauna list, will also take close up my swordtail, so hopefully you can id for me.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

My fauna list, mostly picked out by my wife and kids. I chose the Otos to help my tank maintenance.

3 Swordtails
3 Otos 
3 Cherry Barbs
3-4 Dwarf Crays
2 Snake Skin Barbs (had 5 but loss 3 to ick)
7 Gold Barbs (picked them up after giving my 5 glass cats away, I wanted fishes that were more out and about)
4 Guppies
1 endler

Is this considered over stocked. 2215 ehiem filter and over 50% waterchange a week

A pic of my Swordtail, I dont know what kind it is I hope @Discusluv can help id.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

KZB said:


> My fauna list, mostly picked out by my wife and kids. I chose the Otos to help my tank maintenance.
> 
> 3 Swordtails
> 3 Otos
> ...


 Im sorry, I missed this somehow! Such a beautiful sword-tail. 

I dont know much about these fish, but Ill do some exploring to see if I can identify type.


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

After some discussion with others who raise swords and have experience with them, the most promising guess is that your fish is _(Xiphophorus alvarezi)_.

Xiphophorus alvarezi


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Thank you for doing the research @Discusluv. I saw the same very vibrant colored Swordtails like your posted at another lfs. I dont think they had the name either. Other than swordtails. These are the first swordtails I ever owned. I never new they eat algae. They also dieing plant leaves I don't think they ever stop eating. My 4 year old picked them out. I am a terrible dad as I never or very rarely say "no" to my kids.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Did a major water change again today. My substrate has been really filthy even though I do very thorough vacuuming every water change. I also did a filter cleaning. Really trying to get my tank back in check with this GSA battle going on. Even turned my white lights down another notch. Going back to my dosing methods from before. Going to do what ever it takes to win this war. I got all the tools needed, with all the guidance I can ask for from TPT members. There is no way I can lose. Victory is near and it's going to be sweet.


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Todays test results

Kh 5
Nitrates 20-40ppm closer to 40
Gh 9
Calcium 60
Phosphates 5


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Hello any one reading this. I would like to upgrade to a 55gal 48" 13" 20" but I don't want to buy a new filter I was wondering if my Eheim 2215 could handle this along with giving it proper flow?


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## Grobbins48 (Oct 16, 2017)

KZB said:


> Hello any one reading this. I would like to upgrade to a 55gal 48" 13" 20" but I don't want to buy a new filter I was wondering if my Eheim 2215 could handle this along with giving it proper flow?


And reason for a 55 vs 75? They take up almost the same footprint. The 75 is just a bit deeper (front to back), which really expands your possibilities with scapes and stocking. I do have a 55 right now, but if I could go back in time I probably would have done the 75.

No right or wrong answer, just wondering if you considered both!


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

KZB said:


> Hello any one reading this. I would like to upgrade to a 55gal 48" 13" 20" but I don't want to buy a new filter I was wondering if my Eheim 2215 could handle this along with giving it proper flow?



3 Swordtails
3 Otos 
3 Cherry Barbs
3-4 Dwarf Crays
2 Snake Skin Barbs (had 5 but loss 3 to ick)
7 Gold Barbs (picked them up after giving my 5 glass cats away, I wanted fishes that were more out and about)
4 Guppies
1 endler


To me, the above list seems like a lot of little fish (compared to my bows). With that said, at one time I had an Eheim Pro 4, model 350 on my 75g tank. Nice filter, but I had to clean it weekly or it would be overwhelmed. Your 2215 likely will have enough filtering capacity for a 55 or 75g tank assuming the same grouping of fish. 



As for flow, different story. The 2215 is listed as 164 gph - to me that is probably not enough by itself for a 75g tank. With a couple of powerheads I would say yes, good enough. 

Did not dig back far enough - how are you adding co2 (if you are). A reactor will not help your 164 ghp issue, an in-tank diffuser may be a better option.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

KZB said:


> Hello any one reading this. I would like to upgrade to a 55gal 48" 13" 20" but I don't want to buy a new filter I was wondering if my Eheim 2215 could handle this along with giving it proper flow?


DON'T PURCHASE A 55! There, I said it, in bold print! The 55G is too limiting regarding the depth, it's just too short. I would love to have nice sloping back to front plants with rock features, but there's not enough depth. Put in a rock of any size, and there's no room in front or back for plants. Plus the 55G are typically all tempered glass, so it's impossible drill for overflows, bulk heads etc. Most folks with 55's are not happy with the tank size.

Do you have room for something larger, are there space limitations?


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Wow thanks for all the advice guys. I really like the sounds of 18" depth. I will look into a 75 gallon. Of course this will require more negotiations with my wife. 850lbs filled, the tank location is sitting on floor joist will need to beef it up. That's no problem as it's easily accessible underneath. But of course I gotta get the wife to agree before i come home with a new 75 gal. Lol. Getting a bigger tank is been something I been thinking about for a while. Oh and as far as co2 diffusion, I am using nilocg atomic inline diffuser.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

You'll like the 75G tank much better, we'll worth the effort to upgrade the floor joists. Keep us posted on the negotiations!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

The health of my Staurogyne repens carpet is plummeting. I come to realize this happens every year to it around the same time. I haven't figured out the cause, but its pretty frustrating. I dont know if it had something to do with the temperature change or if it's a change in my tap water. Everything else seems fine


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## carlsj2012 (Mar 7, 2019)

The only regret you'll have with getting a 75, is that you didn't get a 110. Hahaha, down the rabbit hole! Hope the negotiations go well!


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## KZB (Jan 3, 2018)

Life and work is finally catching up to me. It's the inevitable always know its coming. Closing this thread and slowing down on the tank. It was a good run.


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

KZB said:


> Life and work is finally catching up to me. It's the inevitable always know its coming. Closing this thread and slowing down on the tank. It was a good run.


No.  say it isn't so! 

Well. What must be, must be. Good luck and I hope you find a good state to put the tank in.


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## Ken Keating1 (Nov 22, 2017)

KZB said:


> Life and work is finally catching up to me. It's the inevitable always know its coming. Closing this thread and slowing down on the tank. It was a good run.


WHAT!!!??? I thought you getting a larger tank plus it seems everything has been going well. Please provide more into, I'd hate to see you drop off from TPT.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

KZB said:


> Life and work is finally catching up to me. It's the inevitable always know its coming. Closing this thread and slowing down on the tank. It was a good run.


Life and work is why I have a tank!

I find the time spent tranquil and calming.

But I get it, it does take a commitment. I have enjoyed following your journal, and hopefully circumstances will bring you back to the hobby down the road.


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