# Ferts and Low Tech Tank



## Larry Grenier (Apr 19, 2005)

No expert here. I have a low-tech and I does EI. I just dose 1/2 for my size tank and do a weekly water change of only 10%. So far, so good. Other's input...


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## ryndisher (Jun 1, 2010)

Yeah if you are going to does ferts in a low tech you probably shouldn't do the full dosage, it could cause algae problems, due to excess nutrients.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

What do you mean specifically about low tech?

No CO2 and no Excel?

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Guns286 (Sep 17, 2009)

Yea Tom, no CO2. I know you're not a big fan of PPS-Pro but, I have all of the stuff and figure I might as well use it up, what would you reccommend? I'm not going to have a hugh amount of plants, so I dont want to cause an algea outbreak.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Each tank is different. Try it and see. How much light do you have, and what sort?

Yes, even low tech tanks can use some fertilizer. I watch the NO3, though. Most of my tanks have lots of fish, and the fish food seems to have enough N and P for the plants. I am dosing K and traces, especially Fe.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

Guns286 said:


> Yea Tom, no CO2. I know you're not a big fan of PPS-Pro but, I have all of the stuff and figure I might as well use it up, what would you reccommend? I'm not going to have a hugh amount of plants, so I dont want to cause an algea outbreak.


Well, PPS is basically about 2.5 less than EI.
Or PMDD is 2.5 X less than EI minus PO4.
I'm not much of fan since it's not their method, its Paul's and Kevins and they both offered a lot more in depth science to support their method, PPS does not nor gives credit where it is so obviously due. 

So whether you reduce one by say 3x or another by 10X *they both end up adding the same amount at the same ppm. *

You do NOT need to do any daily mumbo rubbish with non CO2, once a week or two is plenty, that's the point with non CO2roud: No testing, no daily stuff(maybe daily feeding of the fish is about it), no water changes etc.

I'd suggest a rich sediment, ADA AS, DIY soil, DIY worm casting, even plain sand with osmocoat is better than nothing.

This has nothing to do with water column dosing, but provides a long term back up should you forget to dose the water column, so it offers a synergistic method that complements water column dosing, or can be done as the exclusive method all alone in most cases, plarticularly if you have a good fish load, feed routinely.

The main issue if really balancing the light for the non CO2, add a few floating species, emergents etc, say 10-20% of the water surface. Pack the tank from day one etc.

This holistic, not nutrocentric, "it's all about nutrients, they must be kept lower = better." There's much more to aquarium plants than the nutrients, they are minor compared to light and CO2 inputs. Each person/aquarium, goal and issue is unique, no cook book method will ever be able to offer specific advice like a real person. 

I prefer a general frame work for management then help folks specifically.
I've also mastered non CO2 several decades ago.

Here's a more recent example using the 1/10th rule dosed once every 1-2 weeks, plain sand, lower light, good plant and fish selection:










My own tank at home breeding Zebra 046L plecos:



















I dose this tank 1-2x a week, about 1/10th EI, but since most of the plants are emergent, they grow without CO2 limitation and algae, current is very high, so you can go a few different ways and gain some advantages and looks in the scape design. 

Light is moderate, but is 24" away from the top of the tank. 
I judge dosing based on the plants, specifically the pennywort, it will get a yellow/pale if there's not enough N. Duckweed does a similar thing(but it's a messy hell).

Floating water sprite etc can also make a nice look.

Really depends on the scape goal you have, you can go cheap DIY, or you can go commercial brands with high grade stuff, you can go above or below the water, I even try to cultivate some nice Caldophora in my tanks. 

KNO3
KH2PO4
GH booster or it's individual components(MgSO4/CaSO4, K2SO4)
Trace mix, CMS+B 

These are not exclusive to PPS, ADA, PMDD, Pfertz, SeaChem, Tropica or EI, *They all add the same things.*

I'd look at the Tropica article and look at the low to moderate light ranges without any CO2 added.

http://www.tropica.com/advising/technical-articles/biology-of-aquatic-plants/co2-and-light.aspx

It is more explanatory for non CO2 and illustrates that plants still grow fairly well without CO2. If you buy into the notion that less is better, then non CO2 is the way to go IME/IMO. PPS makes a big hairy deal over that, but then ignores CO2/light(they do not even bother to test lightm they guess entirely there) as methods to reduce energy, light, algae, and CO2 stress of the fish. 

Good management of light/CO2 can be done certainly, but light/CO2 are much larger players, factors with success and management of planted aquariums. Look beyond nutrients, look at the big picture/*your goal*.

Regards, 
Tom Barr




Regards, 
Tom Barr


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