# Mad's ADA Journal - 60P, 30C, Mini M



## SKYE.__.HIGH (Mar 18, 2017)

I'm glad we have another Ada journal, love these. I tend to think that usually when someone buys ADA stuff then they tend to make sure it looks nice or else all their hard worked for money is waisted. I have been contemplating to get a nano tank (30c). It's either a 30c or one of the fluval spec series. I will be watching this thread.


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

SKYE.__.HIGH said:


> I'm glad we have another Ada journal, love these. I tend to think that usually when someone buys ADA stuff then they tend to make sure it looks nice or else all their hard worked for money is waisted. I have been contemplating to get a nano tank (30c). It's either a 30c or one of the fluval spec series. I will be watching this thread.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Thank you Skye High! You won't regret getting a 30c. I think it's the perfect nano shape and size. I don't know much about the fluval spec but it might be hard finding good lights for that shape tank. With the 30c you can either go with ADA or Twinstar which are both great lights at different price points. 


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## SKYE.__.HIGH (Mar 18, 2017)

MadMensch said:


> Thank you Skye High! You won't regret getting a 30c. I think it's the perfect nano shape and size. I don't know much about the fluval spec but it might be hard finding good lights for that shape tank. With the 30c you can either go with ADA or Twinstar which are both great lights at different price points.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




To be honest, if If I get a nano, it's gonna be more for a nice hardscape and a bunch of algae eaters. I will have some nice moss and some lowlight plants but I don't want anymore maintenance than I have with my ADA 120-P.


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

SKYE.__.HIGH said:


> To be honest, if If I get a nano, it's gonna be more for a nice hardscape and a bunch of algae eaters. I will have some nice moss and some lowlight plants but I don't want anymore maintenance than I have with my ADA 120-P.


Oh nice, low maintenance is always a good thing. But then again I'd love to have a 120P some day with an ADA Solar RGB!


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

Damn starting with fresh water and instant 2 ADA systems. Nice! If you are used to reef, freshwater seems "cheap" I guess with all the corals and equipment.

Did you ask for pictures when ordering the seiryu stones online? Best is to visit LFS over time and collect pieces you like and save them for later. But not a solution if you want to set up a tank for the first time..

I would go for small schooling fish to make the tank look bigger. They won't distract that much because they are so tiny. Good choices for this are:
microrasbora kubotai
rasbora brigittae

Any front pics of the Iwagumi?

Next time you could split carpet plants to individual stems. This way it carpets faster and is cheaper for your wallet 

DHG belem is very nice around stones and edges. Good you mixed carpet plants for a natural effect!
You could also add some echinodorus tenellus it's a nice plant and somewhat higher than most carpet plants.


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> Damn starting with fresh water and instant 2 ADA systems. Nice! If you are used to reef, freshwater seems "cheap" I guess with all the corals and equipment.
> 
> Did you ask for pictures when ordering the seiryu stones online? Best is to visit LFS over time and collect pieces you like and save them for later. But not a solution if you want to set up a tank for the first time..
> 
> ...


Thanks for checking out the journal and all the great tips! I'm going to post a front pic of the Iwagumi this week once I add some fish. 

I actually was considering the Neon Green Rasboras but heard they do better with low Ph water? Unfortunately where I live the water is somewhat hard. I'm also considering Harlequin Rasboras at this time since my LFS has them in stock. It's definitely going to be between those two.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

MadMensch said:


> Thanks for checking out the journal and all the great tips! I'm going to post a front pic of the Iwagumi this week once I add some fish.
> 
> 
> 
> I actually was considering the Neon Green Rasboras but heard they do better with low Ph water? Unfortunately where I live the water is somewhat hard. I'm also considering Harlequin Rasboras at this time since my LFS has them in stock. It's definitely going to be between those two.



My water is also relative hard but didn't had a problem keeping them. What's the ph of your tap? Your co2 system will bring the ph also down. Neon green rasboras stay smaller so I Would go for them. 


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> My water is also relative hard but didn't had a problem keeping them. What's the ph of your tap? Your co2 system will bring the ph also down. Neon green rasboras stay smaller so I Would go for them.
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk


I ended up going with the Harlequins in the Iwagumi just for a bit of contrast. Do the Neon Green Rasboras do well in nano tanks? Thinking about what I want to stock the 30C with now.


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## KeeperOfASilentWorld (Mar 18, 2017)

MadMensch said:


> I ended up going with the Harlequins in the Iwagumi just for a bit of contrast. Do the Neon Green Rasboras do well in nano tanks? Thinking about what I want to stock the 30C with now.


I do not know about the Neon Green Rasboras but 7 Rasbora Brigittae's with some Neocaridina's would look lovely in the 30C


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

MadMensch said:


> I ended up going with the Harlequins in the Iwagumi just for a bit of contrast. Do the Neon Green Rasboras do well in nano tanks? Thinking about what I want to stock the 30C with now.




I had the green neon rasboras in a 25L tank. No problem. 


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

*** UPDATE: 8/23/17 ***

*Equipment Changes*

I decided to give the ZooMed Nano 10 the boot after trying different ways to increase it's flow and failing. Even though the Eheim 2211 is only pushing 60GPH, I chose to run with it because it has 3ft max head whereas the ZooMed is meant to be run on the same level as your tank, and I had mine running below the tank about a foot down. I also ordered some ADA Bio Rio to try out in the 2211 mixed with the Matrix from the ZooMed.










Here's the Eheim up and running inside my cabinet. Even with it packed with Bio Rio and Matrix it produces way more flow than the ZooMed. It also cleared up some cloudiness I had lingering in less than an hour.










*Layout Updates*

I decided to remove the baby tears from my substrate and will probably replace it with a Crypto Petchii or Wendtii in the shaded area and possibly hydro mini in the lit area. Also added Bolbitis tissue cultured plant in the middle-right on the driftwood. You can barely see it in the pic below.

In case you're wondering, the green Eheim intake and HOB filter in the photo below are temporary.










As far as fauna is concerned, I still have not decided on what fish to put in here. Right now I have moved over 3 oto's from 60P to help deal with the driftwood fungus that is all over the tank but I'll move them back once the fungus is gone.

Will post an update on the 60P tomorrow!


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## Tofuaqua (Oct 7, 2016)

Wow nice ! I would love to get one 2011 on my nano set up(only 4 gallon) but i wonder how silence does it get? Jelous of your tank and journal! I am too lazy to post my lol


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## Tnalp (Mar 25, 2017)

Tofuaqua said:


> Wow nice ! I would love to get one 2011 on my nano set up(only 4 gallon) but i wonder how silence does it get? Jelous of your tank and journal! I am too lazy to post my lol




I have the 2211. Been running it in my bedroom on my mini m for about 2 weeks now. I can't hear it. I also have a 2213 right next to my bed. Also can't hear it 


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

Tofuaqua said:


> Wow nice ! I would love to get one 2011 on my nano set up(only 4 gallon) but i wonder how silence does it get? Jelous of your tank and journal! I am too lazy to post my lol




Thank you for reading! The Eheim classic canister filters are all very silent. As Tnalp said you can't really hear them. 

Another option if you can't find the Eheim, if you don't mind having the filter sitting next to your tank then the zoomed nano 10 is also very quiet. Would be perfect for a 4 gallon. 


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

*** UPDATE: 8/27/17 ***

Decided to take a chance and add some Mini Bolbitis (Difformis) to the tank in order to fill some space. I'm going to do my best to keep it alive but much more experienced men and women before me have tried and failed with this plant so I'll be surprised if it does well.

Does anyone have good plant suggestions that looks similar (but hardier) to fill the space in case it dies?

Also, my Rotala in the back is not doing too well. The lower parts of the Rotala H'ra are dying off from the ground up. The Green Rotala seems to be doing a bit better than the H'ra but the lower parts are also plagued with the darn white fungus from the driftwood. If the whole plant starts to die off I'll probably remove most of the Rotala and plant a few Vallisneria stems. For now I am increasing dosing the Brighty K and Mineral and doing my best to also increase water flow in the area.

Not much of an update here aside from adding the bolbitis and rearranging the glassware a little to try and maximize flow around the tank.


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## SKYE.__.HIGH (Mar 18, 2017)

Looking very nice already, I love the buce or Anubis (lol, forgot what it was)


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

SKYE.__.HIGH said:


> Looking very nice already, I love the buce or Anubis (lol, forgot what it was)
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks Skye! It's an anubias nana petite :grin2:


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

*** UPDATE - 9/20/17 ***

Since the last update I've mainly just been letting everything grow out and get established. I also dry-started a new tank, an ADA Mini M (more info on this in my first post). I'll be adding my updates to the Mini M on this thread along with the 60P and 30C.

*60P Updates*

Removed all UG and replaced it with Eleocharis Belem. The tank now only has HC and Eleocharis Belem and Parvula.
Modified Eheim 2213 to remove media basket
Replaced Jardli glassware with VIV glassware


















*30C Updates*

Removed all remnants of Bolbitis "Mini" due to the plant completely dying off - will replace with regular bolbitis
Modified Eheim 2211 with a 2213 impeller - Best thing I've done to add flow
Added _Hydrocotyle Tripartita sp. Japan_


















*Mini M Updates*

Planted HC 
Currently using a desk lamp but will replace with ADA 361 or Twinstar this weekend


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## tranquil (Sep 6, 2017)

what was the reason for swapping Jardli pipes? I'm running them myself now, anything I should be aware of?


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

tranquil said:


> what was the reason for swapping Jardli pipes? I'm running them myself now, anything I should be aware of?


Actually nothing wrong with Jardli at all, I'd recommend them any day. I found a LFS selling their last VIV glassware for super cheap so I decided to try it, I got both inflow and outflow for $30! The shape of the outflow on the VIV is a "violet" instead of "lily" and I wanted to see if it would produce more flow, but it really has not made any difference. I'm going to give the Jardli outflow a good cleaning and probably go back to that on the outflow.


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## tranquil (Sep 6, 2017)

Thanks. I am happy with Jardli Lily outflow and inflow with the skimmer. Think violet looks kind of sleeker, but I'll take your word for granted that it really doesn't make much difference. I was also looking into lily pipe spin outflow, but eventually it didn't grow on me although looks super cool.


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

tranquil said:


> Thanks. I am happy with Jardli Lily outflow and inflow with the skimmer. Think violet looks kind of sleeker, but I'll take your word for granted that it really doesn't make much difference. I was also looking into lily pipe spin outflow, but eventually it didn't grow on me although looks super cool.


Yeah I tried the jet style outflow as well which is just the straight glass tube thats bent in an "S" pattern, not a huge fan of it. One thing I learned about trying all these different outflow types, the lily pipe is the only one that creates a vortex at the surface and allows for aeration. I aerate all my tanks at night so the lily is the only outflow I can use.


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## tranquil (Sep 6, 2017)

and it helps break the biofilm on the surface, if you get it, super fine


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

tranquil said:


> and it helps break the biofilm on the surface, if you get it, super fine


Went back to the Jardli lily today roud:


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

*** UPDATE - 10/21/17 ***

Alright, so I'm selling all my tanks and switching hobbies so if you're interested please PM me. 

JK, but seriously I have been feeling frustrated as of late. The 30C and 60P have been battling hair algae for about a month now. I've tried everything from switching to a low dose fert regimen, increasing Co2, limiting lighting, even going as far as buying a Twinstar M5 reactor for the 60P. I hate to admit this but I also tried the nualgi additive and stopped after 3 weeks. 

Thus far I've been able to prevent the algae from continuing to spread in the 60P (not sure if the Twinstar has something to do with that), but in the 30C the algae keeps coming back. 

Anyways, here are some pics!

*60P*

















*30C*









*Mini M*


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Did you do any test before starting to dose less! IME algae takes hold when nutrient levels get low. Your plant mass has grown and with that requires more Co2 and ferts.


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## MadMensch (Jul 2, 2017)

Nlewis said:


> Did you do any test before starting to dose less! IME algae takes hold when nutrient levels get low. Your plant mass has grown and with that requires more Co2 and ferts.


I think you might be right. I did test initially and noticed that I had 0 nitrates in both tanks which seems impossible. So in the beginning of the algae infestation I started supplementing my ADA dosing with KNO3 daily. After a week the algae seemed to have gotten a lot worse so I stopped the KNO3 but continued with the ADA dosing. Maybe I should continue with the KNO3 for longer?


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

MadMensch said:


> I think you might be right. I did test initially and noticed that I had 0 nitrates in both tanks which seems impossible. So in the beginning of the algae infestation I started supplementing my ADA dosing with KNO3 daily. After a week the algae seemed to have gotten a lot worse so I stopped the KNO3 but continued with the ADA dosing. Maybe I should continue with the KNO3 for longer?


0 nitrates is definitely a problem. Not sure what to tell you regarding the ADA ferts as I’ve never used them. From what I know their system of dosing runs ferts pretty lean.


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## torque6 (Jun 7, 2008)

I've been in this hobby for almost 2 decades and honestly, this is a very unforgiving hobby compared to stuff like gaming, fishing, photography, cycling, modeling etc. This is because the easiest "thing" to grow in your tank isn't plants, it's algae. In addition, there's several types and they grow even in the most established of tanks and in all types of setup. There is no way around it.

If you are Low in co2, you will get BBA, too high a co2 and you run risk of fish/shrimp dying (a drop checker do help in this scenario). Low in phospate, you will get GSA, high in phosphate and you will get algae. Low in nitrate, you get BGA, high in nitrate, you get algae.. and the list goes on. On top of that, I feel that every one's tank is unique, so unique that how you fix algae issues also differs. I see people adding better flow to help manage algae, and yet I see other hobbyist with high flow struggling with algae. A hydrogen peroxide dose may help with BGA in 1 tank but will do squat in another.

I have also seen tanks with 120 PAR light, with no co2 and yet no algae. No ferts, no co2 and the RED plants are striving on a 25 PAR light for another tank. The inconsistencies in this hobby is amazing. Mainly because our water source is different.

I stay in Singapore and the fish and aquatic farms aren't doing that great and many have already closed down over the years. However, some new local fish farms are still ignorant believing that the majority of GEN Z (their future customers) would be interested in this hobby when studies have already shown that they spend more time on their smart phones and social media. 2-3 hours of water change per week? For real?

We also have new hobbyist picking up aquascaping with full $1,500 worth of ADA equipment, tanks and cabinet on our forums. But after showcasing how good their algae free tanks were after 6 weeks, they just couldn't figure out how to balance their tanks after that. It's algae galore from then on. Daily removal of algae coupled with several water changes every week was a struggle. I see eheim canister, cabinets, crystal tanks selling for 1/3 of their retail prices all the time.

My advise to you good sir, is probably hold off selling the tank. Try reducing the photo period to maybe 6 hours. ADA aquasky/Twinstar is rated 120 PAR? I recalled, you only need 30 PAR to grow all plants. Tank already looks good, just maintain it. May take awhile though as you are using a 60P, anything before 70L is considered a nano tank and water parameters will not be as stable as say a 40G breeder. Take care and let us know if it works.


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## SKYE.__.HIGH (Mar 18, 2017)

torque6 said:


> I've been in this hobby for almost 2 decades and honestly, this is a very unforgiving hobby compared to stuff like gaming, fishing, photography, cycling, modeling etc. This is because the easiest "thing" to grow in your tank isn't plants, it's algae. In addition, there's several types and they grow even in the most established of tanks and in all types of setup. There is no way around it.
> 
> If you are Low in co2, you will get BBA, too high a co2 and you run risk of fish/shrimp dying (a drop checker do help in this scenario). Low in phospate, you will get GSA, high in phosphate and you will get algae. Low in nitrate, you get BGA, high in nitrate, you get algae.. and the list goes on. On top of that, I feel that every one's tank is unique, so unique that how you fix algae issues also differs. I see people adding better flow to help manage algae, and yet I see other hobbyist with high flow struggling with algae. A hydrogen peroxide dose may help with BGA in 1 tank but will do squat in another.
> 
> ...




I don’t know if you know (can’t tell what people really mean when you can only read it) he is not selling his tanks, he was only making a joke that’s what jk means JK-just kidding. 

Now maybe I was the one who didn’t get your post? Anyway just wanted to clarify that because I have met many people who don’t know what jk means.


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