# What's Your Algae Control Strategy?



## Brian Feeder of Fish (Nov 7, 2016)

The general idea is a balance of nutrients and CO2, limited by light. If the plants have enough nutrients to use the full potential of the light, then the algae can't use the nutrients because the plants have them. I suppose a total absence of nutrients would accomplish the same thing, but seems difficult to execute. Also, a larger amount of plants helps to make better use of the nutrients.
Of course, I think most of us do still end up removing at least some amount of algae during water changes. That said, many people also maintain a population of anti-algae species like shrimp and snails to minimize buildup between cleanings.

Knowing almost nothing about the reef world, is it practical to limit light or have something that would out-compete the algae for nutrients?

Brian


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Yes what Brain Feeder said as long as the plants are thriving then the algae will not. The right amount of Nutrients and light are the key. If the system gets off balance algae will take hold very fast.


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## sundog101 (Apr 7, 2017)

Knowing almost nothing about the reef world said:


> Thanks for the info!
> In reef tanks most people don't limit light (most have way too much imo). The strategy for a while has been to starve out the algae and have undetectable nutrients by using GFO, algae scrubbers, or carbon dosing. Recently though people have found that 0 nutrients are not great for (most) corals.


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## BettaBettas (Aug 21, 2016)

lighting


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## Axelrodi202 (Jul 29, 2008)

sundog101 said:


> I have a reef tank, and would like to hear how you guys prevent algae in planted tanks. In the reefing world, the strategy is nutrient reduction. Is this what you do in planted tanks? Do you leave some nutrients detectable in the water? Will algae not grow with small amounts of nitrate and phosphate?


Interesting that a reefer is asking for the planted tank perspective on things. Personally I often look to reefers for philosophy and inspiration! 

The core strategy is to keep a large number of plants growing well at all costs. Plants will keep the water clean, taking up all the nutrients algae need to grow. It's also possible they emit chemicals inhibiting algae, though this topic is not well-studied. Meanwhile healthy plants leak organic matter/nutrients, which feeds algae (this is why algae oftentimes grows on older leaves in poorer condition).

Nutrient reduction is a strategy, to a degree. There is one popular method, Estimative Index (EI), that absolutely loads the water with nutrients to ensure no deficiencies. But this is not good for running a stable tank. Leave the tank alone for a few days, or have a minor accident (like a dead fish, or CO2 running out), and the cleanup will be backbreaking. Not to mention the risk of toxicity (to both plants and fauna). I have found leaner methods, like ADA, works better. Dose just enough to meet the plants' needs, and no more. For me this means I dose until there are no more signs of deficiency. For macronutrients I find maintaining 5 ppm NO3 and 1 ppm PO4 is a good sweet spot, giving enough buffer for the plants while not being enough to encourage algae growth. This is for my CO2-supplemented tank filled with fast-growing stem plants; if I had just slower growers like ferns or Cryptocoryne I could probably get away with even less. 

Of course the other things like light, CO2, are important for keeping plants healthy. But there is one subject that is often ignored: microbial balance.

There are more microbes in our tank than those involved in the nitrogen cycle. They serve a myriad of essential functions, including processing various organic wastes and making nutrients accessible to plants. Of course, there can be bad ones as well. When microbial balance is tipped away from the beneficial kinds, algae often results. Conversely promoting good microbial balance will combat algae. For example, using a product like ADA bacter balls in a spot with BGA will literally lead to the BGA receding/disappearing within days. 

How does one promote a healthy microbial population? Sufficient filtration capacity is a big one. However substrate choice and oxygenation are also very important. Soil substrates, in addition to providing nutrients for plants, are also excellent for supporting the microbial population, especially when combined with a lower layer of volcanic rock (like lava rock pebbles). Maintaining adequate oxygenation is also essential. Make the sure the surface is clean (no oil slick film preventing gas exchange), and aerate the tank at night. 

Lastly, the tank's first month or so can make or break it in terms of stability and algae issues. This is a very good link discussing the topics I mentioned in this post, as well as going over best practices for starting a new tank. It is a long read but worth every bit. You will learn more in an hour of reading this than a whole week of reading random forum threads.


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## sundog101 (Apr 7, 2017)

Thanks for the info! I'll have to read that link. 



Axelrodi202 said:


> Interesting that a reefer is asking for the planted tank perspective on things. Personally I often look to reefers for philosophy and inspiration!


Haha, for aquascapes I always look to planted tanks for ideas!


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## klibs (May 1, 2014)

lots of plants


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## sundog101 (Apr 7, 2017)

Funken_A said:


> H2O2 treats the symptom but not the cause. But keeps algae at bay while you work the real issue.


Do you use h202 in the tank or do you take the rocks out?


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## sohankpatel (Jul 10, 2015)

It is a balance. Too little or too much nutrients leads to algae. Too much light can also lead to algae. If I see algae, specifically hair algae I immediately dim my light 5 to 10 percent and spray it with h2o2. GSA means that i need more po4. Also, don't listen to "ideal" amounts, they work for many, but not for all. Phosphate should be 1 to 2 ppm, I run 5-7 PPM, and nitrates in the 30's. Some people have algae with params like that, but I need high po4 to stop gsa.


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

I high tech, which I have not been as successful lately as I used to be, I would say what Brian Feeder of Fish said. Now, I personally does Excel if I start to get algae, which will reduce most types, when dosed daily. Now that their are much more dimmable LED options, I also may dim the lights when Excel does do the trick as that shows me my light is simply to strong for the plant mass. If it gets out of control, then I may go to H2O2 (Hydrogen Peroxide) but some of my favorite/commonly used in my tank plants are sensitive to it like HC.

In low tech tanks, without CO2, it's all about the lighting and starting with a good amount of plants. For me, that really it. If I am getting algae, I still go to the above techniques but everything moves much more slowly so I typically never get any real outbreak of algae, unless the light is simply too strong. If your light isn't too strong, you may find yourself cleaning the outside of the glass more than the inside. In a low tech environment, I put far less of a fight up because if you get a large algae outbreak, it means you went to strong on lighting, and if you don't reduce it, the setup will never work.


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Like I said before having the balance is the key. If you have the correct lighting, fertilization and co2 in a high tech setup then algae will be minimal to none. If everything is balanced then it all favors the plants and they will grab the nutrients before algae can. For me co2 is the most important factor and can determine a huge outbreak if not dialed in correctly. Its also about keeping it consistent. Its very easy to have a large co2 swing within 30 minutes that will easily favor algae. Its very easy to get a 10x swing with co2 and is WAY more than anything else like ferts and can then cause algae. This is why its very important to dial in co2 slowly and not cause large co2 fluctuations. Also too much light can cause an issue. By intensifying your lighting you are forcing the plants to use more nutrients and co2 and if you do not have the available co2/nutrients then algae will take hold. So little lighting is better than too much. Start on the lower intensity and lower period like 7-8 hours and adjust accordingly slowly, simply put less light equals less nutrient and co2 demand. Lets say that you have too much light and not enough co2 then the plants are only as good as their weakest link in this case co2 and algae can/will grab hold. So when making adjustments in one make sure you make the adjustment with the other. For example if you Dose more ferts and turn up light you need to ensure your co2 is correct accordingly.

The EI dosing method is great because it ensures you will not have a nutrient deficiency ruling out nutrients as a factor for giving algae the upper hand. This is why its very important to have your co2 dialed in correctly. Too little co2 according to light and or ferts then the plants are starved and algae will again grab hold. Many will falsy accuse the amount of ferts when dosing correctly EI levels when in reality its their lighting and or co2 are not correct. Again all three need to be correct in order to achieve balance and whichever one is not correct then again your plants are only as good as the weakest link.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

Axelrodi202 said:


> sundog101 said:
> 
> 
> > I have a reef tank, and would like to hear how you guys prevent algae in planted tanks. In the reefing world, the strategy is nutrient reduction. Is this what you do in planted tanks? Do you leave some nutrients detectable in the water? Will algae not grow with small amounts of nitrate and phosphate?
> ...


Dead link


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## Axelrodi202 (Jul 29, 2008)

It works for me; it should link to a pdf. If not, it is basically a condensed version of this thread.


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## Zorfox (Jun 24, 2012)

Something more important than the balance is the source of the nutrients. There are organic and non-organic sources for nutrients. 

The fertilizers we use are inorganic salts. We can easily dose enough inorganic nitrate to reach 40ppm without issues. If we add enough organic matter to equal the same amount of nitrate it will result in many more organic compounds that do indeed cause algae. Those extra byproducts are what can cause issues. I have no idea but would assume the same is true in reef tanks. I suppose you could do as we do and concentrate on growing plants except you would be growing zooxanthellae in the coral. Would zooxanthellae respond to inorganic salts as fertilizer? I have no idea but it would be interesting to find out.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Nigel95 said:


> Dead link


On the dead link point? I also thought it might be a failure but it just took longer than expected. Perhaps just give it some time to complete?


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

PlantedRich said:


> On the dead link point? I also thought it might be a failure but it just took longer than expected. Perhaps just give it some time to complete?


Yeah it works now probably my internet being bad..


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## longgonedaddy (Dec 9, 2012)

Blackwater and minimal nutrients. But, that's probably not the right answer for a planted tank forum.:wink2:


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