# 75g Dutch Weed Farm



## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I started this Journal on a another forum so it will look familiar to a few people but figured I might as well share it here as well.

I've been wanting to start a journal for sometime now, but documenting my progress either on paper or through photos has never been my strong suit and always seems to be an afterthought. I am one of those guys that brings his camera on vacation and doesn't take a single picture. But luck for me and you I did take a few random photos throughout the process.










*Past History:*

The tank has been up and running for roughly 9 months. For the first two months I dosed roughly ⅓ EI, then I flipped over to ½ EI for the following three months. Had no clue what I was doing but read that you do not need to dose anywhere near full EI with new AS. From day one I have run Co2 where it’s a steady stream of bubbles through the counter, to hard to even count. At around the five month, life was a little busy and the tank was kinda left to its own accord. Dosing and trimming were very random, Co2 had run out at some point, and water changes pretty much came to a halt. As all this was taking place there was one constant, the lighting. Four of the six bulbs would come on religiously for 8 hours everyday. As you can imagine my algae growing skill far surpassed my plant growing abilities.

I finally had enough and I entered the tank with scissors in hand and clipped and pulled what ended up being over 75% of the plant material in the tank. When all was said and done I had a grocery bag full to the top of clipping. I restarted my Co2 system and set up a steady stream of bubbles as I had in the past. Lighting did not change, basically 4 bulbs, (two being 6400K’s, one ATI Blue Plus and one Zoo Med Flora) came on for 8 hours each day. Co2 came on one hour before lights on, and went off one hour before lights off. I started dosing full EI, dosing 6 days a week, alternating macros and micros and did a 60% to 70% water change on the 7th day. Plant growth was steady. I tried different plants here and there, of course some grow better than others. I had/have issues with AR mini, leaves curl and stunt, R. wallichii stunting after a couple weeks in the tank, but most other things i’ve tried grew ok with this routine, some even grew to good (weeds) and they ended up in the compost bin.

*TL;DR;*

Tanks been running 9 months.
I let the tank crash due to lack of care and time around the 5 month mark.
Cleaned tank up.
Started dosing full EI about 3 months ago.
Most things grew well.
AR mini curls and stunts.
R. wallichii stunts after a week or so in the tank.

*The Basics and Current Set-up*

*Tank:* standard 75gal 48” x 21” x 18”
*Stand:* Homemade, 2x4 carcass, skinned with cabinet panels which are all removable giving me full access to equipment.









Carcass built and ready for black paint.









Cabinet with removable panels (skins) installed









Just in case someone is interested I used these little connectors to attach the panels.










*Light:* 6 bulb T5HO Tek light. Has to separate banks of bulbs, two outside bulbs on the first bank and the four middle bulbs on the second bank.











*Bulbs:* _From front to back_

6400K Sunblaster
Zoo Med Flora Sun
6400K Sunblaster
6400K Sunblaster
ATI Blue Plus ?
Giesemann AquaFlora

*Photoperiod:* 8h total. Currently fixture sits about 8" off the surface.
First 2 hours and last 2 hours, two bulbs come on consisting of bulbs 1 and 6
Middle 4 hours, all 6 bulbs on.
I am trying to get a hold of a Par meter to take some readings. I’ll update when I get my hands on one.

*Filtration and Circulation:* Hydro 600, intake and outflow (via a spray bar) setup on left side of tank. Flow is directed across the surface and runs the length of the tank.
On the right side, Ehiem Skimmer 350 that I have plugged into a cheap timer which comes on for half hour runtime multiple times a day.
A Koralia 850 circulating water left to right, aiming downward. This is a balancing act between not disturbing the substrate but keeping the water flowing back across the tank at the plant level.










*Substrate:* 4 or 5 9L bags (can't remember) of ADA Aqua Soil.

*Co2:* Custom made Harrison dual stage regulator, Clippard solenoid, Fabco needle valve and 20lb tank.
24" x 2" PVC DYI reactor, gate valve on the outflow to control flow and to create a little back pressure to help with dissolving Co2.
Co2 comes on 1.h hours before lights on and goes off 1 hour before lights off.









I think I might need a little cord management

*Water Parameters*
_2016 Tap water report for my area._

Fe - 0.005 ppm
Mn - 0.0006 ppm
Cu - 0.008 ppm
Mg - 8.99 ppm
Zn - 0.0028 ppm
Mo - 0.0013 ppm
B - 0.023 ppm
dGH - 122mg/L ~7dGH
PH - 7.72
_Tank water according to API Test Kit_

dGH - ~7dGH
dKH - ~5dKH
PH - Forgot to replace the cap on my PH pen. Will update when I get a new one.

*Current Dosing
*
Macro dosing is based on full EI, I based my calculation on a full 75 gallons of water using Rotala Butterfly.
Macros are dry dosed 3 days a week.
7.5 ppm KNO3
1.3 ppm K2PO4

Micros are currently ½ EI which comes from Dutch Nutrient Formula Micro Mix. I mix these in a 500ml container and dose 10ml 3 days a week.
I dose an extra 5ml/.2 ppm of Flourish Iron on micro days.

















Dutch Nutrient Formula Trace Elements

I will add some of my thoughts, concerns and goals, along with more pictures and my current and past plant lists (at least the ones I know the names of) in my next post.

Yes this layout looks very similar to burr's, and there is a reason for that. His journal template is easy read and follow. Also tank information is in one post and easy to find. Full credit goes to Burr740! I hope he doesn't mind because this took a crap load of time to write up.

Thanks for following along, comments, concerns, critiques, suggestions and questions are all welcome and encouraged.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Lets get this Journal up to speed.

Like a lot of people I have always had major issues growing Alternanthera Reineckii 'mini' or any of the Alternanthera varieties. Leaves never grow flat, most are stunted and twisted. Basically the same old story we hear time and time again. 

Crappy beat up AR before.









It was suggested to me, because my tap water has so much of the minor elements already in it to try and reduce micros and only dose .1ppm Fe DTPA and .05ppm Manganese Sulfate. I was going to try this for 2 weeks and see how the tank and plants respond. The plan was to not change anything else going on with the tank. Same Macro dosing and photo period and intensity as before. Co2 will remain the same one point drop before lights on and tapping out with another .3/.4 drop before lights out and 70% WC once a week. 
Well, things didn't work out as I had plan. I screwed up my calculation and only dosed .05ppm FE and .025ppm Mn for the first 2 weeks. The week before I started this, I dosed very little to no micros. So basically the tank went through a mini 'detox' for 3 weeks. Low and behold the AR mini showed improvement from what I guess was the low micros. 

3 weeks after low micros 
https://flic.kr/p/VAipyW https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

My next step is to continue with my original plan of dosing .1ppm Fe and .5ppm Mn. I'll keep you up to date.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Still getting this journal up to speed.

As mentioned in my last post, I screwed up and the tank ended up going through a 'mini detox'. Up until this point the tank was religiously receiving full EI level of micros.

It's way to early to even say or realistically think that the flatting out of AR mini leaves is due to my new dosing. But what we can say with certainty is that the plant definitely liked the low levels of micros. Once I set up my other tanks (two 40B grow-out/experimental tanks) I'd like to continue with the very low levels of micros to see how AR mini responds. But this little experiment in my 75g is not all about low levels of micros. Its more about replacing/removing the EDTA chelating agents from the micro mix and and how it affects AR mini growth. Yes, I am only dosing half EI levels of Fe at .1ppm so I guess you can say I'm reducing micros but my original goal was to remove the EDTA chelating agents from the tank.

I'm keeping a very close eye on the tank looking for any deficiencies that might pop up because I am only dosing Fe and Mn on micro day. I'm hoping that all the rest of the minor elements the plants needs will come from my tap water. I am currently in the process of getting my hands on all the raw materials that make up CMS + B so if needed I can start to supplement my tap water.

So far only thing acting weird is Bacopa caroliniana. Some not all, stem are stunting which I've never seen in this tank. Again to early to say what might be causing this, but we'll keep an eye on it to see how it reacts once we get this 'new' dosing stabilized a little better. 

Note stunting of the right stem compared to left stem.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Quick update.



Removed a few things and did a little trimming. Tried my hand at some streets, still have random plants here and there.







AR looking a lot better, even some of the Variegated is straightening out.



My original one and a half stems of Pantanal has already turned into four stems. The picture does not do the colour justice. They seem a lot greener in the picture compared to what they look like in the tank.




Hygrophila corymbosa showing some sign of deficiency, anyone have any ideas?

Macros
Kno3 = 1/2tsp 7.3ppm
Kh2Po4 = 1/4tsp 3.4ppm
K2So4 = 3/4tsp 7.5ppm

Micros
.1ppm DTPA Fe
.05ppm Mn
Rest for tap water


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> Macros
> Kno3 = 1/2tsp 7.3ppm
> Kh2Po4 = 1/4tsp 3.4ppm
> K2So4 = 3/4tsp 7.5ppm
> ...


Curious how often you add these.
I can't add that much PO4 to my tank. The water just turns to snow from precipitation with iron. Your water quality or pH is probably better than mine.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Ben Belton said:


> Curious how often you add these.
> I can't add that much PO4 to my tank. The water just turns to snow from precipitation with iron. Your water quality or pH is probably better than mine.


I dose micros and macros on alternating days. 

Macros are always dosed on water change day and the cycle starts from there.

I've dosed as high as 1/2tsp Po4 and have had no ill effect.

I run injected Co2, off gassed PH is about 7.4. Peak drop is ~6.2.

Lately Gh has been ~10.5dKH and Kh has been a steady 5dKH out of the tap.


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## Anchor (Sep 10, 2016)

I have that issue in my tank right now too. The white, dug-in looking spots on a broadleaf aromatica on only new growth. 

It showed up during a nitrate spike and only affected 1 plant that receives the least light out of the bunch.

It appears to have solved itself after a few water changes.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

@Anchor does broadleaf aromatica = Limnophila aromatica?

I have Limnophila aromatica, its shows no signs of deficiency at all. The plant actually grows like a weed in my tank, love the look and colour, just hate that it doesn't grow straight. Twist and bends in the current and ends up growing all over the place.

*Update of deficiency.*

Since I was only dosing Fe and Mn and seeing if I could get enough of the other elements out of my tap water, I'm not to surprised to see some form of deficiency. Theoretically my tap water should have enough of the micro elements to supply the tank. But as was discussed on my other journal, are all these elements from the tap water in a useable state? Good question, and I have no clue.

On a side note, last week I did two water changes and never noticed any issues with the Hygrophila corymbosa. This week only one, which was last Saturday. Did I not notice it last week because I added more elements with the midweek water change? Or has the Hygrophila just now starting showing signs of deficiency due to the lack of supplemental trace dosing for the last three weeks? 

*Tap Water readings from my water report*
Cu - 0.008 ppm
Mg - 8.99 ppm
Zn - 0.0028 ppm
Mo - 0.0013 ppm
B - 0.023 ppm

I bought some Flourish Trace and have started to dose it at the recommended label rate. I am also in the midst of ordering the individual elements so I can roll my own traces, I'd love to experiment and narrow down what element is causing the deficiency.

*Co2 issues.*

My Co2 has started to float around the last couple of days. I'm not to sure if its my needle valve (Fabco NV55) or if its my check valve built into my bubble counter messing up. Yesterday when I went to check on the tank, there was a ton of gurgling coming from my reactor and the Ph monitor was already showing a full one point drop in Ph and the Co2 had only been on for 20 minutes. The gas was flying through the bubble counter and I had to dial it down a fair amount. This morning I go down and Ph has only dropped .1 and Co2 had been on for half hour. 

I am now on the hunt for a reasonable priced metering valve and a new bubble counter. Looking for recommendations?


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Great looking tank, nice journal, and very well documented. Looking forward to seeing where it goes from here. Subscribed.

As to PAR readings, I would imagine yours is going to be quite high.

For reference, I have six bulbs over an 60" x 18" x 26" 120G tank. So 18" wide like yours, but taller. So my lights are about 26" from the substrate, and my par with all bulbs on is 135 in the middle of the tank at the substrate. Yours are probably even a bit higher, which is at pretty much nosebleed levels. 

Like you, I stagger the lighting throughout the day. I only have all bulbs for 4 hours, and am slowly cutting that back to see the effect.


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## Anchor (Sep 10, 2016)

Okay, 

The check valve, even if it's leaking or not seating, or sticking, cannot be the cause of excess co2 assuming the check valve is after the needle valve

The needle valve Fiasco's people have,.. I won't go into it... But I would suspect your needle valve is OK . 

So. That leaves pressure. Which is handled by the regulator on the tank. If the gauge for low pressure has any movement at alll, your regulator is bad (even if the movement is 2psi over 10hours)

Yes I was referring too limnophilia aromatics, sorry


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

slipfinger said:


> My Co2 has started to float around the last couple of days. I'm not to sure if its my needle valve (Fabco NV55) or if its my check valve built into my bubble counter messing up. Yesterday when I went to check on the tank, there was a ton of gurgling coming from my reactor and the Ph monitor was already showing a full one point drop in Ph and the Co2 had only been on for 20 minutes. The gas was flying through the bubble counter and I had to dial it down a fair amount. This morning I go down and Ph has only dropped .1 and Co2 had been on for half hour.
> 
> I am now on the hunt for a reasonable priced metering valve and a new bubble counter. Looking for recommendations?


That sux. When your reactor was full of massive CO2, did you do anything to vent it, or is that unneccesary?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

@Greggz 

Thanks for the kind words. As for Par, I'm guessing its up there as well, hence only running all 6 bulbs for 4 hours. I will be interested to see how the different bulbs are effecting my par readings. 
@Anchor 

I too highly doubt its my check valve, just throwing that out there as I know mine is not seating right and letting a little water by. Reason I suspect its my needle valve is because if I just touch the dial my bubble counter changes and changes by a lot, almost like the port is/was blocked. 

I'm pretty sure its not my reg, but I will keep a closer eye on it. It's a Harris 9296SS reg I bought new 8 months ago, doesn't mean its not working 100% but I set it to 20psi the day I set it up and I have never seen it move off the original setting. 
@ChrisX

No, I don't do anything. It's usually gurgling after a few hours of Co2 anyways, I just leave it and by morning it's running clear again. Future plans are to try and make the whole Co2 system more efficient, but for now I run it like Co2 is free.


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> *Tap Water readings from my water report*
> Cu - 0.008 ppm
> Mg - 8.99 ppm
> Zn - 0.0028 ppm
> ...


I would bet your tank could use all this up in a day if not less. 

You need Flourish and not Flourish Trace.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Ben Belton said:


> You need Flourish and not Flourish Trace.


 @Ben Belton

Can you expand on this?


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## Anchor (Sep 10, 2016)

When you say it's set too 20psi, are you reading the gauge supplied with the regulator? Or did you install your own gauge?

Please double check your reading a PSI gauge and not a PSIG gauge, because this would explain your issue with regulating flow.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Anchor said:


> When you say it's set too 20psi, are you reading the gauge supplied with the regulator? Or did you install your own gauge?
> 
> Please double check your reading a PSI gauge and not a PSIG gauge, because this would explain your issue with regulating flow.


Gauges came on reg and its set to 20 PSI not PSIG.

As for regulating flow, no doubt in my mind its my needle valve. I just have to tap the adjustment knob and the flow rate changes.


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## Anchor (Sep 10, 2016)

Well don't tap it lol

OK just wanted to be sure your not wasting money or gas everything because of something silly.

Once I had my needle valve close to where I wanted I thread locked it in place, and made all my adjustments via pressure. I found the resolution to be finer


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I'll be heading on vacation for 10 days starting on Friday. I will not have anyone looking after the tank, which means it will be completely on auto pilot.

The plan for the rest of the week is to mow down everything in the tank and reduce bio-load as much as I can. I'll switch out my Co2 tank with a new full tank, I don't want to have to worry about running out. Co2 will not change, it will remain at its current levels. Timers will be set to reduce photo period and I'll set the light to only run two bulbs.

Dosing will not be happening at all. My hope is by reducing plant mass, keeping the light intensity low and reducing the photo period, but keeping Co2 high the tank will survive the week with no care or nutrient dosing.

I finally gave up on the Rotala wallichii_, _pulled it all out except for a few 2" stems that seemed to be growing, for now anyway.



Replaced the wallichii with Cabomba 'purple'. I have never seen a plant pearl like this thing.



Posting a full tank shot for myself so I can compare this to when it gets its vacation trim. The limnophila sessiliflora will be removed. It grows too fast and leggy under the tanks current conditions, high everything. I'm going to leave a few stems in the tank so I can see how it responds to the lower light and no ferts. I'm sure it will grow how I want it to look, bushy and full.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Due to my vacation and the limited time over the next couple of days I decided today was probably the best day to get in the tank and hack and trim the crap out of everything. The picture is a little cloudy as I took it right after the water change.

I've been wanting to move a few plants around for a while now, figured what the hell! I moved the Hygrophila corymbosa from the left side to where the weedy limnophila sessiliflora was in the back right corner. I tossed the whole lot of limnophila sessiliflora in the trash. Note to local plant buddies. Please do not think you are doing me a solid by adding a few of these stems in with your trades, I DON'T want them!
I collected the random stems of Pantanal I had around the tank and combined them into their own little group were the Hygrophila corymbosa was. I started out with two wimpy stems of Pantanal, I now have seven wimpy individual stems plus one of the original ratty bottoms that now has about six little side shoots growing off it.

Its amazing how much plant material you can actually remove when you get in there and thin and trim everything. When all was said and done I ended up with an easy pound or more of trimmings and stems.

Just for reference the tongs in the picture are 8" long and the container is about 6" deep.


Over the next couple evenings I still need to clean my filter, replace my Co2 tank with my spare and do a final 50% water change. I'll probably change over the Co2 tank tonight once it shuts down so I have a few days to run it and work out any kinks before I leave.

Over all I am happy with the way most things are growing. 

*Rotala macrandra* is still not growing all that well or at all. I topped any that seemed to look ok and tossed anything that was stunted. This little group of a dozen stems was only one really beat up stem a few months back.
I have one crown of *AR varigated* that is growing really well, the others not so well. I'm starting to think I need to hack them all down and remove all the old leaves except for the newest growth. 

*AR mini* has responded well to the low micros. I'm still getting the odd twist in some of the new leaves, but for the most it is a 100% improvement. 

*Limnophila aromatica* grows like a weed. It has great colour, but seems to grow with the current and never really stands up straight. 

I love the look of what I think is *Pygmy Chain Sword* flowing across the top of the water on the left. I didn't really want to trim it but I also didn't want it to block any light from the *Pantanal*, so it got a haircut. May have to rethink the Pantanal's location.
My tissue cultures of *Pogostemon erectus*, *Hygrophila araguaia* and *Proserpinaca palustris* that I added to the tank just over three weeks ago are all doing really well.

*Pogostemon helferi *grows so well in my tank. I have never had any issues with it at all, I just leave it alone to do its thing. Last time I cleaned the group up I was able to sell about 50 crowns and still have a dozen left for myself to replant. Most of this group was suppose to be sold over the weekend, but both buyers stood me up. 

Just some random shot of the tank from left to right.

Left Side


Center


Right Side


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## ILikeRice (Jul 9, 2017)

Beautiful tank . Enjoy your vacation.


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> @*Ben Belton*
> 
> Can you expand on this?


Sorry. Work got in the way the last few days. Other people have explained this in the past so much better than I can. I was hoping one of them would beat me to the punch.

Flourish Trace has barely anything in it. It has those super low level things that you'd likely never need to add to your water. It has traces like rubidium, nickel, and vanadium. The owner of Seachem (when he used to speak at the AGA conventions) would say that most people would never need it. He suggested using Flourish, and if you still thought you were missing something, to add the Flourish Trace to that.

Flourish on the other hand has traces more in line with CSM+B and Microplex and also in higher amounts. 

I am sure I explained that terribly. :grin2:


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

You explained it well. 

Other than their iron, I can honestly say I have never looked at or used any other product from the Seachem line. So when I went to grab some trace elements I figured Flourish Trace was what I needed, geez it says Trace right on the bottle. Plus that is what was recommend to me by Burr, I have to assume he knows what he's talking about. The guy has his own trace formula named after him. 1xburr, 2xburr ......  

Anyways, after you mentioned it in your post I started looking into it and doing some comparisons. Yes, Flourish Trace is on the light side compared to Comprehensive. But that is actually what I wanted, since I am doing this crazy little experiment to see if my tap water can supply the needed trace elements. So my ignorance regarding Flourish products worked out in my favour. 

If I see even minor improvements adding extra traces from Flourish Trace (with its low ppm) then I know my tap plus the bottle rate of Flourish Trace can supply enough of everything, or its still not enough and I need to up the rate. I can keep upping the rate of Flourish until I see the deficiency disappear. At this point, if I wanted to take it a step further and roll my own traces based off of Flourish Traces numbers. I could add one element at a time and see what happens to the deficiency present on the Hygrophila corymbosa leaves. By doing this I would eventually narrow down which element or elements my tap can not supply and/or are just not available and are causing the deficiency. Is that something I really want to do or care to find out? NOPE. 

My plan is to run this routine of only adding Fe and Mn along with tap water and now the bottle rate of Flourish Trace until plants start complaining too much or I get bored of this experiment and feel its time to start a new one. 

My next experiment will be to mix my own micros with the individual elements following CSM+B @.1ppm Fe. I am working on gathering each element, which is turning out to be quite the chore here in Canada. Unless I want to buy 10lbs or more of each ingredient. 

Probably more then you or anyone wanted to hear, but I ramble.


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## Brian Rodgers (Oct 15, 2016)

Amazing work and experimentation. Thank you for sharing this journal.


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## Kramflowz (Aug 6, 2014)

I recently acquired macranda red and have had a little trouble with it stunting. Looked around online and read multiple times that it loves trace elements, so I bumped up my ei csm+b dosage and also added some iron chelate to the tank. Hasn't been long enough to say for sure that micros were the reason it was doing poorly, but since increasing my traces the new macrandra growth is that beautiful even toned red color I was looking for. Leaves haven't seemed to stunt either. I know you said that you hope your tap can supply whatever trace minerals you need , but if that fails maybe try to increase them a bit and see how the plant reacts. All of this is just from my experience, not saying this is the way to do things or the correct way. Hope I could help!


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

@Kramflowz thanks for the insight.

R. mac is one of those plants, if its growing well then everything else in the tank should be growing well. Its not shy about complaining. Its a weird plant, main stems can be stunted but side shoots off the same stem are growing nicely. 

Results from changes take time. Not to sure what would be an exceptable time frame to come to a confirmed conclusion, days, weeks, months possibly years? I'm heading into my fourth week of this routine, but this week with no dosing and lower light has thrown a wrench into my little experiment. Also I use the word experiment very loosely as I have no control to speak of what so ever.

Its tough to come to over all conclusions when we as hobbyist are dealing with so many different plants in the same tank that may or may not require different parameters to grow. Fix an issue with one plant and its neighbor starts complaining about something. In the end its all about finding a balance that 'most' plants can thrive in.

I'll run the course on this little experiment until I have my other tanks set up then I can start using these tank as my so called experiential tanks. Not that I'll stop experimenting in the 75, I still have so much to learn, everything I do will be an experiment. I do know I want to reducing the number of species and start to focus on actually scaping the tank.


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## Williak (Jun 26, 2012)

Very nice aquarium.... Those are some insane light levels lol 

Really nice bulb selection! That Lobelia looks great too... I have some purple cabomba and also mayaca fluv that do the same thing, looks awesome :nerd:


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Back from my ten day vacation. It's nice to be home but it also means back to reality and work!

Just a quick photo of the tank exactly as it looked when I turned the light on today. Remember tank had no maintenance or dosing while I was away. Co2 remained the same, only two lights came on for six hours a day.

I will do a full update later tonight, nothing really exciting but a few obvious standouts. Main standout, not a hint of algae other then a little dust on the front glass, which is normal.

No surprise here, but *low light plus low nutrients = less stress and worry*.

*The tank today*



*Before I left*


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

*Tank Update*

I can honestly say I was not at all surprised with the condition of the tank and what I found after ten days of being left on its own. More experienced growers has said it multiple times, low light + low nutrients = less work and a less issues. But what fun is that?

Before I left I knew Co2 would not be an issue and the ADA AS would have enough reserves for ten days, specially with the lower light. But I questioned how plants like Pantanal would fair and if AR varigated/mini would look better with low ferts.



Pantanal, I figured it would react in some way, and I was right. But surprised with the one stem that shot for the moon, while the rest looked spindly or had stunted tips. Of course they have lost some colour. From journals I've read, this is normal under low light and low nutrient conditions.



One stem of AR variegated is still going strong and the rest well........ they are there. The AR mini that I removed all the deformed leaves from, for the most part are growing fairly straight and flat. But the ones I have not trimmed are not doing much at all. Lobelia Cardinalis 'Dwarf' and Hygrophila 'araguaia' are looking good and are both ready for a thinning. Anyone know the name of the plant right behind the AR variegated?



Hygrophila corymbosa is showing very little if any signs of defiances, unlike just before I left. This alone makes me question why I want to drive this tank in the fast lane. Maybe I should operated the tank like I'm on a Sunday cruise with the top down!

Sorry for the washed out photos. I do no editing at all, straight from iphone to this journal.

Random pics of the tank.

*Left Side*


Tissue cultures of Pogostemon erectus are not complaining at all. Blyxa needs to be thinned out. Sold a few Pogostemon helferi just before I left, thats why the open space.

*Center *


I was amazed at the growth of the Mermaid weed, cant wait for this to colour up. My little plot of 'wallichii' beside the Mermaid Weed has not done much at all, I was hoping for more. These were all small unstunted stems I trimmed off the ugly bunch I throw away a couple weeks ago. Couple have even stunted despite no added nutrients and lower lighting.

*Right Side*


Cabomba 'purple' really coloured up. I will be interested to see this plant under high light and high nutrients. As mentioned already Lobelia Cardinalis 'Dwarf' and Hygrophila 'araguaia' are doing great. I think they look good beside each other and I actually like the look of this side of the tank the best, good combination of colour and texture. 


I'm glad I'm home and I have already turned the tank up to 100%, don't know why. Someone needs to slap me silly and knock some sense into me. I look forward to working on my new project in the coming weeks, two 40 gallon grow tanks. I will start a journal on this project in the near future. 
Thanks again for following along.


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## Anchor (Sep 10, 2016)

Looks great

Shocked your cabomba wasn't more overgrown. Does the purple grow slower than the regular green?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Anchor said:


> Looks great
> 
> Shocked your cabomba wasn't more overgrown. Does the purple grow slower than the regular green?


Good question. It has not been in the tank all that long plus the tank has been running on low light and no ferts for the last ten days.

Everything is running top speed again, I'll let you know in a few days.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I was finally able to get my hands on a par meter. Can't say I am surprised by the numbers near the bottom of the tank with all six bulbs blazing, which I run daily for 4 hours. Its an eye opener though as you raise it closer to the surface and it gets into the mid to high 500's.

I am going take some reading over the week end with different bulbs, and different fixture heights. I'll post my readings for future reference.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I've been wanting to hang my fixture for a long time. Mainly so I could play around with light intensity and it would also allow me to raise the fixture up and out of the way to make it easier to do maintenance on the inside of the tank. My old setup with the fixture sitting on top of the tank gave me limited access to really get in and move things around.

So I ordered some wire hanging kits and was able to get them installed and hung this morning.

I am really happy with the outcome, it makes everything looks so much cleaner and accessing the tank is so much easier. I am now blaming my old setup on my crappy scaping skills, we'll soon see!


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

That looks excellent. I am about to set up a 75. You are inspiring me.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

*Update*

What a treat todays maintenance was without the bloody fixture in way, having front, side and top views to plant makes a such huge difference. I took the opportunity to remove all the plants from the right 1/3 of the tank and deep vacuum the soil. I reduced the amount of plant material in the area and gave every one a little more elbow room. 

Once the Pogostemon erectus grows out more I well move somewhere towards the middle/back of the tank. Anyone have any ideas? I am slowly but surely building up my stock of Pantanal stems. Can't wait to have enough to actually plant a larger group of it. If anyone has a secret to get Limnophillia aromatica to grow straight let me know. I love the plant but it is all over the damn place, tank current doesn't help much. The regular AR is still looking descent, little bit of GSA on the older leaves but, leaves are still straight and flat. 



I still need to work on the middle and right side, which really needs things moved around and thinned out.



I decided to add 4ppm MgSO4 today with my water change, just because. Figured I'd add some after water changes for a few weeks to see what it does if anything. I have never added Mg or Ca after water changes, with my tap water I figured I didn't need it. Might start messing around with adding both in the coming weeks, can't hurt. 

Im currently dosing .1ppm Fe DTPA and .5ppm Mn along with 20 ml of Flourish Trace 3 days a week and 1/2tsp (7.3ppm) KNO3 and 1/4 (3.4ppm) KH2PO4 on the other days. 

I started dosing an extra .1ppm Fe DTPA earlier this week to see if it would help with my Pogostemon helferi which seems to be showing a deficiency in only a few of the plants. The white centres of a few of the plants is in the pictures above, is not the lighting. The plants center is actually white. 

Anyone experience this before or have any ideas?





Finally the FTS. Position of new light makes it harder to take quick and easy pictures without reflections.


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## Anchor (Sep 10, 2016)

If you grow aromatca with water running directly down on it, it grows much much straighter and thicker then what you have. 

It just naturally leans with the flow, so growing it away from tank walls and hard objects that direct flow on itt is pretty crucial.

Can you post a closer, clean picture of yours? With so much light and low nitrates yours should really look good.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Curious to see what the addition of magnesium brings.
Should be near overnight greening if Mg was/is lacking.
Very nice tank! 
I been watching.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Anchor said:


> If you grow aromatca with water running directly down on it, it grows much much straighter and thicker then what you have.
> 
> It just naturally leans with the flow, so growing it away from tank walls and hard objects that direct flow on itt is pretty crucial.
> 
> Can you post a closer, clean picture of yours? With so much light and low nitrates yours should really look good.


Had these pictures on file, I'll edit this when I get home and add some current photos.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I mentioned above that some of the newest growth on P. helferi is coming in white. Unless I have discovered a new rare species which I will name, Pogostemon helferi 'white', I believe I have a new deficiency in the tank.





I did a little searching on the line and read many difference reasons why new growth is coming in white.

Low Iron
Low N
Low P
Low K
Low Mg
Low Ca
Low Micro's
Low Light
Low Co2
So, what can I conclude from this little research project? Short answer, my tank is doomed!

All joking a side, I'd like to get to the bottom of this little mystery.

My current dosing.

Macros x 3 days
7.5ppm KNO3
3.4ppm KH2PO4
I do not add extra K
6ppm MgSO4 (for the first time after my last water change Aug.13. Tap has ~9ppm)

Micros x 3 days
.2ppm Fe DTPA (Started adding an extra .1ppm Aug 7th)
.05ppm Mn

20ml of Flourish Trace (Which Rotala Butterfly says adds)
Mn 0.005988
B 0.001972
Co 0.000021
Cu 0.002254
Mo 0.000211
Ni 0.000002
Zn 0.011905
Rb 0.000006
V 0.000001

Co2 - ~1.4/5 point drop
Light - Blinding, see my above par readings at the sub.

On paper everything looks to be in order except for a couple trace elements being on the low side of EI levels. This being B and Mo. I could also be low in Ca, I do not add any extra as my tap says it has ~35ppm.

Could this simply be a delayed reaction to no dosing for 10 days while I was on vacation?

Anyone have an ideas?


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## vijay_06 (Apr 11, 2017)

Thanks for taking time out and posting this excellent journal. The tank looks awesome!

Not to divert from the question you have posted on P. Helferi, what is the reasoning behind doing 6 ppm MgSO4 when your tap water contains 9 ppm already? Are you dosing it once after water change or thrice a week along with Macros? I read from other threads that 2-5 ppm Mg should suffice for a high tech tank. Do you know the level of Ca in your tap water and are you not supplementing Ca along with Mg?


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> Could this simply be a delayed reaction to no dosing for 10 days while I was on vacation?


IMO, yes. I would just give it some time and see if the color bounces back. All of your dosing levels seem generous, so I highly doubt it's a deficiency. I would guess ten days no dosing could easily result in various delayed reactions.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

vijay_06 said:


> Thanks for taking time out and posting this excellent journal. The tank looks awesome!
> 
> Not to divert from the question you have posted on P. Helferi, what is the reasoning behind doing 6 ppm MgSO4 when your tap water contains 9 ppm already? Are you dosing it once after water change or thrice a week along with Macros? I read from other threads that 2-5 ppm Mg should suffice for a high tech tank. Do you know the level of Ca in your tap water and are you not supplementing Ca along with Mg?


First off, thank you.

I normally do not add any extra Mg to my tank. As mentioned my tap has 9ppm Mg and 35ppm Ca, theoretically that should be plenty. I wish I could give you some profound explanation as to way I added it this time. The reality is, the bag was sitting there so I throw 3tsp into the tank after my water change for shats and giggles. Pretty scientific I know!


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Not really related to this journal but here's a sneak peek at my current project. 

First of two 40 gallon breeder grow out/experimental tanks on a Lowes shelving units. The lower tank has ADA AS. I'm still undecided on the sub for the upper tank. I'm considering going inert like PFS so I can experiment a little. I still have a couple 9L bags of AS so still might go that direction as well. Both tanks will have identical Co2 systems, quad T5HO fixtures with the ability to run only two bulbs or all four, Marineland 220 filter and a hydro Koralia 425 for circulation. Basically I am trying to keep everything equal, for the sake of experimenting. I still have a bunch of stuff to do before I add water, including purchase the second tank. I'll start a journal once I have everything completely setup and running.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Since I have to return the par meter this weekend I figured I better take a few measurements for future reference. The higher number is of course with all 6 bulbs on. The lower number is with just 2 bulbs on, that being the front 6400K Sunblaster and back Giesemann AquaFlora. *I will update with the exact height the fixture sits off the top of the tank.

Picture for reference.

_
*Bulbs:* _From front to back

6400K Sunblaster
Zoo Med Flora Sun
6400K Sunblaster
6400K Sunblaster
ATI Blue Plus ?
Giesemann AquaFlora



Side view for front to back reference. To be expected the layout of the bulbs effects the par readings. For example I am getting higher readings at the front of the tank compared to the rear of the tank due to having 2 - 6500K bulbs in the front half of the fixture.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Is the P Helferi looking better?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

*Update
*
FTS (water still a little cloudy after water change).


Maintenance day! Decide to spend some time rescaping the right 1/3 of the tank, some time being four hours. I yanked everything out on the right and gave the AS a deep vacuum, what a bloody mess. Also cleaned the filter and all the pipes, Fe Gluconate really makes a mess of the filter piping.

Tank was really starting to get over grown, I was starting to see hair algae on the Pantanal and Hygrophila corymbosa. I think flow in the tank was one of the main factors but I also messed around in the tank the other day and didn't have time for a water change. I only planned on moving a couple plants to make room for a few Eriocaulon cinereum, but ended up yanking all the AR and lobelia which stirred up the sub more than I would have liked.



The Proserpinaca palustris (mermaid weed) which I planted as a tissue culture back on July 10th was finally ready to be moved. I trimmed down the Cabomba 'purple/red' and organized and replanted all the stems. I picked and cleaned all the deformed ratty leaves off both the AR 'mini' and AR 'variegated', having the grow out tank is so nice since I can throw all the left overs in that tank to sell or use in the future. As mentioned above I made some room for my newly acquired Eriocaulon cinereum, my first try at Erio's fingers crossed they do ok. I really need to work on the middle part of the tank. Pogostemon erectus is ready to be moved, not to sure where it will be going but I've got a week to plan it out. I'm thinking Pogostemon gayi might be getting the hook. I want to get the Pantanal moved to the middle of the tank way from Pygmy Chain Sword. It will probably trade places with the L. Aromatica/Hippuridoides not sure which it actually is.



Not to sure why I am punishing these ratty looking stems of Rotala wallichii, I should just put them out of their misery. Poor things are covered in Hair algae and BBA, they are basically sitting there on life support. Probably going to be moving them over to the grow out tank which has new Aqua Soil, rich Co2, good lighting and no dosing.



Pogostemon Erectus doing well.



Pogostemon helferi growing gang busters since I spread them out and gave them some elbow room. Couple are still showing signs of deficiency but growing like mad, so I'm not to worried.



Random shots






The 40b grow out tank already full of plants, still have more to fit in there. The second tank might be needed sooner than later.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Update on dosing.

I've decided to give urea a try at .25ppm per day.

Current dosing will look like this.

Macros
1/3 tsp KNO3 5ppm
1/4 tsp KH2PO4 3.5ppm
1/4 tsp K2SO4 2.5ppm
.25ppm urea

Micros
.2ppm Fe DTPA
.1ppm Mn (more than I need but trying to keep the 2-1 ratio)
20ml Flourish Trace
.025ppm extra Boron

I finally ordered all the individual elements to mix my own trace mix. Once they come in, I will be following EI traces to start with.

On another topic, I was sick of my Fabco needle valve giving me fits, so I updated to a Hoke 3100 series metering valve. This valve is unbelievable, I can literally dial it down to 1 bubble every 2 secs if I wanted. But of course I have bubbles racing through it an uncountable rate.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Update time.



This last week I've notice a little hair algae here and there around the tank. BBA has also popped up on some older growth and on the ends of the Dwarf Sagittaria (I believe) in the back left corner that I trimmed a while ago. I've been really stirring up the sub the last couple of maintenance days, pulling all the plants and deep vacuuming a 1/3 of the tank to remove mulm and such. I'm guessing this is probably the reason for the 'outbreak'. I cleaned the filter and replaced the poly wool both times the day after I really mucked around, in hopes of keeping the organics down. My plan was to remove all the plants and vacuum the middle 1/3 of the tank today but ended up just leaving it because I wasn't sure how I wanted replace everything and was also worried about causing more algae. I'll do a couple of water changes this week and let things settle do before tackling the middle. I want to thin out the Bacopa or remove it completely but I currently do not have anything to replace it with. Any thoughts on what to do or plant?

Below you can see the amount of built up mulm in the area I have not vacuumed compared to the area I've deep vacuumed.




I decided it was time to move the L. hippuridoides, I was sick of it growing all over the place and looking like azz. I also need a place for the Pogostemon erectus and figured I could kill two birds with one stone.. I kept three stems of L. hippuridoides in the 75 just because and replanted them between the Proserpinaca palustris and Ludwigia palustris.
Panatanl doing ok, still a couple tips that stunt for what ever reason. I need to top and replant those couple of stems that look out of place, but I'm letting it grow out. The amount of stems are steadily increasing week by week, not too bad to say I started with two wimpy looking stems.





I'm really happy with the growth and look of the AR mini, its not perfect by any means. But, it was not long ago that its leaves were stunted, twisted and full of GSA. I've started to really fuss over them, trimming, picking and cleaning leaves that look bad. I think this has been a big part of the turn.



Lastly the 40b is getting a little crowded already. Some of the helferi and Hygrophila 'araguaia' melted for what ever reason. Im not to concerned, there is a fair amount of new growth just going to take time. I had a buyer for some of the Hygrophila 'araguaia', but decided to hold off and let it grow out before selling. I am not dosing the tank at all, just letting it do its own thing for a bit.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Tank is really looking great! Beautiful layout and mix of colors/shapes. 

Very, very nice work. One of the nicest around.


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## Kurama21 (Oct 14, 2015)

This tank is truly and inspiration for me.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Greggz said:


> Tank is really looking great! Beautiful layout and mix of colors/shapes.
> 
> Very, very nice work. One of the nicest around.


Thanks Greggz, means a lot. 



Kurama21 said:


> This tank is truly and inspiration for me.


Thank you, nice to hear. I hope you get a few ideas and maybe even learn something while following along.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

​Moved a few things around which allowed me the chance to finally vacuum around the Bacopa, the mulm build up along the glass was driving me crazy.

I still have a few things to shape and move, including shifting the Lobelia so it curls in behind the H araguaia and continues a little further to the right. The left and the right sides in the front still need some work.

For the left I want to remove the regular AR poking up behind the Blxya and try the Nesaea Pedicellata 'golden' in that area, thats if it survives in the grow out tank.

As for the right, the helferi is being sold so it's just there temporally. The Rotala Mac will be removed, going to try and source Penthorum sediodes to replace it. (thanks to burr790 for the recommendation) AR variegated is going to replace the AR mini I just moved. Might move a small group of AR mini somewhere in front of the what ever ends up on the front right side.

The plan is to move the last few things this weekend, then let everything grow out.

I also want to play around with my lighting. As it stands now, all six bulbs are only on for four hours a day and only two bulbs are on for the other four hours. I posted par readings a few posts back. I'm considering switching it so all six bulbs are running for a long time frame, maybe six hours but raise the light up so i'm only getting 100 to 120 par at sub. Currently six bulbs are giving me 160+ par at sub. I want to see if the longer photo period with less par will colour up my Pantanal a little more, sounds ass backwards but............. 

I'd be interested to hear what others par readings are at sub and how long your photo period is at that par.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Moved a couple things to see how they look. Water is a little cloudy, took the picture before my water change.



I moved the AR mini out and replaced it with AR variegated. Not to sure what to think! It may look better if I add a few stems of P. erectus between it and the Pantanal.

I temporally added the Nesaea Pedicellata 'golden' behind the Blyxa japonica to see how the contrast would look, I think if I can grow it out enough for a full grouping it would look good. Problem is 'golden's' not doing so hot, slowly melting on me. I'm hoping trying to grow it out in the 75 is the answer.

Farming some helferi on the right side, got an order for 20 stems, need to grow a few quickly in less then two weeks. 

Right side is still a work in progress.

Thats about it..


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Posting for future reference.

Note: Replaced AR mini with AR variegated and added a few helferi on the right side Everything less untouched.

Growth comparison, 9 days apart. 

August 31


Today, Sept 8


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Nothing really new and exciting to report, did a little trim and water change today. Waters still a little cloudy.

I will be glad to fill this order of 20 helferi so I can clear the right side out. Still not too sure what my plan is for that side of the tank.



Rotala macrandra has never grown like this before in the 75. Colour is still not perfect, but I'm impressed with the growth. 



New 40 is clearing up nicely.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I was collecting a few Pogostemon helferi to sell and just had to post this. This thing is huge.



Iphone 6 for size comparison.


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

slipfinger said:


> I was collecting a few Pogostemon helferi to sell and just had to post this. This thing is huge.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Lucky buyer!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## giwan (Sep 11, 2017)

Wow, the 75g looks amazing man, gets my fingers itching. 
I still haven't sold my 260 liter tank yet, and would love to try a Dutch scape (I mean I am Dutch after all so I kind of have to...), but I have to resist. I don't have the time to keep up with that right now. 
Until I do I will just have to make due with looking in amazement at threads like yours 
keep us updated with a lot of pictures please (especially the full tank shots, I love those)


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Thanks for the kind words @giwan

Here ya go.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Moved a few things around.



The Pantanal was being shaded by the Sagittarius floating over top of it so I switched it with the Mermaid weed. I am not happy with the right side at all, way too much red. I picked up some Ambulia which is in the right front corner still transitioning from being emersed. My plan is to replace something red on the right side with the Ambulia which will add a little more green to that side of the tank. I still need to sort out the front right corner. I have a couple ideas and ordered a few different plants which will be here next week to try in that corner.

I also ordered a couple new bulbs to try, Hortilux PowerVeg 633 and 660. These are both very high in the red spectrum. It will be interesting to see how they look in combination with my other bulbs. I'm thinking on replacing the 6500K (fourth bulb from the left) with the ATI blue and putting one of the PowerVeg bulbs where the ATI blue was.



PowerVeg 633









PowerVeg 660









This looks like an interesting bulb Full Spectrum plus UV. Basically I could get a nice tan while doing tank maintenance.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I've been away on my annual canoe/kayak trip since Wednesday morning, where I spent 4 night and 5 days sleeping under the stars and paddle the lakes and rivers of Algonquin Park. Of course while I am paddling around I always have my eyes focused on the water and what aquatic plants I might find. I didn't get many pictures while while out on the water but I was amazed by some of the 6' + long Vallisneria flowing along the surface. I did find a few eriocaulon along the shore of one of the sites we stayed at. Anyone know what variety these are?

​
Back to my tank.

I got a call Wednesday morning from the place I ordered my new bulbs from and he informs me they are in but....... one of the bulbs was broken during shipping so he ordered another one which is suppose to be in mid this week and they are not going to charge me for it because of the issues. Gotta like that.

I am always amazed at the growth of the tank when you don't see it for a few days. I am going to have to spend a couple hours tomorrow night reducing the bio-load in the tank.

​
On another topic, I throw a couple of old ratty algae infested Wallichii in the 40b I set up a month and a week with AquaSoil. It has only received a couple drops of Fe and thats about it since the tank was set up.

Here is a picture of the stems in my 75g.


Here are the same stems today in one of the 40 with just new AS.


That's all I really have to share at the moment. I'll post another update after I do some trimming and cleaning.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

This week has been nuts work wise. I've been putting in 15 hour days, leaving the house at 4am and and not getting home till after 9pm.

The tank is in need of a major trim, bio-load is extremely high atm. It won't be until Sunday before I can jump in there and pull, pluck and prune. I have not noticed any algae yet, but I'm sure if things don't get cleaned up asap it will rear its ugly head. Pantanal is not happy, lots of complaining. I missed a couple days throwing pellets into the tank for the shrimp. When the little buggers get hunger, AR takes a hit.

I did get a chance last night to quickly throw the PowerVeg 633 into my fixture. I still need to mess around with where it will end up in the batting order, thinking of moving it to first or second in the rotation to see if it will create a little depth in the tank. I throw it in the back for the time being to see what it looked like, didn't get much time to really evaluate the look of the tank. It sure does throw off a red/pink color, the back wall in the picture is normally yellow.

Before:


After


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

you guys and your HO tubes.. how can I ever even come close with these cruddy leds ...


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

I think this is my favorite FTS yet. 

Presentation is just beautiful. Just keeps getting better and better.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

ipkiss said:


> you guys and your HO tubes.. how can I ever even come close with these cruddy leds ...


T5 for life......


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Greggz said:


> I think this is my favorite FTS yet.
> 
> Presentation is just beautiful. Just keeps getting better and better.


Thanks @Greggz.

The tank is due for a major trim. I am not at all happy with the right side, too many reds. The giant Sag in the back left corner is throwing to much shade. It's either on its way out or I need to find something that I can put under it that is not effected by the shade. Pantanal complained when it was under it and now the Mermaid weed, It's just not colouring up like it was when it was unshaded on the right side. I am growing out a few more green plants in the 40's, I have options. 

Always evolving!


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

slipfinger said:


>


Hi Slipfinger,

Can you please tell me what plant is this on the right? Looks like some Parrot's feather I had in the past but was not successful with. 

thanks


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

ipkiss said:


> Hi Slipfinger,
> 
> Can you please tell me what plant is this on the right? Looks like some Parrot's feather I had in the past but was not successful with.
> 
> thanks


Proserpinaca palustris, (Mermaid weed)


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

really? thaat spikey?? wow, that's pretty impressive.

:thumbsup:


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

ipkiss said:


> really? thaat spikey?? wow, that's pretty impressive.
> 
> :thumbsup:



That picture is of younger plants that I had just moved into the tank. As it matures and grows closer to the light the leaves turn a reddish yellow and become much thicker.

Newer plants, mostly green with smaller leaves.


Mature plant, 10" away from the fixture.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Finally got a chance to get my elbows wet. Because of being so busy with work last week the tank didn't get any attention at all. 

I moved a bunch of things around. I am not happy with the current look atm, but maybe once it grows in it will grow on me. I figure I'm not going to get better if I don't try different things and experiment with different plants in different locations.

I decided to move the Sagittarius out, not to sure how I feel about that move. I replaced it with Ambulia, which is growing a lot slower than I thought it would. Maybe once the Ambulia grows in I might like it a little better. 

Moved the Cabomba 'purple/red' out to try and reduce the amount of taller red plants on the right side of the tank. I moved the Pantanal back to the left side and brought the Mermaid back which needs to thicken up.

Reduced the amount of Lobelia so I could make some room for AR mini. Didn't bring it back for scaping purposes but to see how it will manage in the 75. In the past when dosing CSM+B it was stunted with twisted leaves. Since the AR has been in my grow out tanks with just new AS and no added nutrients it have grown almost damn near perfect.

Added Hygro 'compact' in the front right. Mainly so it will grow out, not to sure what the plan is for it. I'm thinking of removing the AR 'rosanervig' I've never really liked the look of it and its not really growing, its just there.

About two weeks ago I added a couple flourish root tabs under the Hygrophila 'Siamensis 53B' to see if it would help it along, and it worked. It has not been this dense and thick for a very long time. 

I still need to reduce the Pogo 'erectus' and 'gayi', but I have no room what so ever left in either of my 40's. 

Before.....


After.....


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

As mentioned in my last post, AR mini has made a return to the weed farm. Posting a photo so I can document its demise.

Note: The AR is coming out of a 4 week old (new AquaSoil) tank that has had *ZERO* added nutrients.

For the record my current micro dosing, 3 x week:
.1ppm Fe Gluconate
.1ppm DTPA Fe
.06ppm Mn as Manganese Sulphate
.003ppm Cu as Copper Sulphate
.011ppm Zn as Zinc Sulphate
.002ppm Mo as Sodium Molybdate
.025ppm Bo as Borax


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

*Update*

One thing I have learned in this hobby is, consistency is very important! When you get off schedule, be it dosing, water changes or regular trimming, plants are quick to start complaining. 

Leading up to this past week the tanks have played second fiddle to 'life'. Between working long hours and being away my regular dosing and husbandry routine has been no existent . This past week the tank has been back to its regular routine and I have quickly noticed the improvements. Not a single stem of Pantanal is complaining, Giant Ambulia is finally starting to grow now that its seeing regular dosing again. 







Couple of plants are still complaining. This may or may not be because of the lack of attention. 

AR 'rosanervig'. This is a tough demanding plant. I've had it in the tank for 3/4 months now and it has never really done all that good. It grows and has nice colour but some plants have stunted and twisted leaves. 



Mermaid Weed (Proserpinaca Palustris), It grows nice and colours up nice, but there are always a couple stems out of the bunch that develop stunted and twisted tips. 



Hygrophila 'Siamensis 53B' has the odd twisted leaf. When it twist the leaves also turn a red colour.



Couple of random FTS.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

A week ago a decided to throw some AR 'mini' back into 75 to see how it would do. Low and behold it is growing damn near perfect. For now, if you look close enough there are signs of trouble ahead, leaves curling under and maybe one or two leaves with a little wave in them.

Planted on Oct 3rd.


Today.


I listed my current micro dosing a couple post above.

My macro dosing is as follow 3x week.

1/3tsp Kno3 5ppm
1/4tsp Kh2po4 3.5ppm
1/3tsp K2so4  3.3ppm. just because.
.25ppm urea

Lately (about a month) I've been adding a 1/2tps .9ppm MgSO4.7H2O after any water change.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Very quick update.

Finally got my hands on the PowerVeg 660. For those @burr740 that thought the 633 was red this bulb is really red. Things will probably look different when I actually get a chance to move bulbs around. I am not planning to run both red bulbs at once, but throw it in the fixture to see the difference. 

Before with 2 flora bulbs.


After with 660 and Flora.




All six bulbs with just the 633.


All six bulbs including the 633 and 660.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Great pictures and thanks for doing that. The first two are especially striking. No question that bulb is really red and has a big impact on the colors. 

And reinforces to me that reading this board causes a constant drip drip drip out of my wallet....as now I have to go right on line and order some.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Awesome, thanks for the pics. Have you decided yet which one you like best?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

burr740 said:


> Awesome, thanks for the pics. Have you decided yet which one you like best?


I didn't get much time to really mess around. I was heading out of town for the weekend so just throw it in to take a couple quick pics and post for you guys.

The pictures I posted above were literally one minute after I installed the bulb and turned on the fixture. When I looked at it an hour or so later, the bulb did not look as red and the 633 actually looked more red and the 660 looked a little more pinkish red. 

I'll update with pictures when I get home Sunday.

Question: Has anyone heard or read that the red part of the spectrum promotes algae growth? Someone on another forum mentioned this to me and I've been meaning to ask if this is true or another case of fake news?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Spent a good four hours yesterday cleaning and organizing the 75 and the two 40's.

Before.


After


I decided to removed the Bacopa 'compact' which had been in the 75 for over 6 months. I could not believe the size of it when I actually got it out of the tank.

Not the best picture, but you get the idea.


Now here is the issue, what do I plant in its place????

I removed the Hygro 'siamensis' and felt really creative so I replaced it with............ Hygro 'corymbosa'. The leaves on this sucker are going to be massive.



About a month ago I purchased Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan' in a tissue culture. After a rough start I was able to nurse a single plant out of about 5 I planted. I decided to move it over to the 75 to continue to grow it out. I've always like the look of the plant and wanted to try it in the 75 as a focal point. I am completely stumped on where to work it into the scape, anyone have any suggestions?



AR 'mini' is showing more signs of not being happy. Last week was not the best week for dosing, I think I only dosed micros once and macros twice. I did just add my second dose of Ca and Mg this past water change, and work is slowing down, dosing should be back to normal this week. We wait and see.



On a positive note Pantanal is doing great...



Finally a parting shot of the 40's.


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## Triport (Sep 3, 2017)

Nymphoides 'Taiwan' is basically a small water lily. I would use it as a background plant with something in front of it to screen its stems. It reproduces viviparously forming new plants along stems that can be broken off and replanted or removed. It will start to shade out plants under it though so it will probably need to be kept in check. Mine was perfectly happy in a low light low tech tank in shallow sand with no fertilizer for 3 years. Moved it to a high tech tank with brighter light, Co2 and ferts and it has really taken off. This picture is about a week old. It is now even bigger with leaves almost covering the right side of the tank. (below in the right hand tank with some Aponogeton crispus growing sort of in front of it). 

46 and 36 gallon planted bowfront tanks by Kaveh Maguire, on Flickr


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

@Triport, Thanks for all the insight and tips. 

I've been warned since its basically a weed it can become a hand full to manage.


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## PortalMasteryRy (Oct 16, 2012)

What is the difference between Nymphoides 'Taiwan' and Nymphiodes Aquatica (Banana plant) in terms of appearance.


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## Triport (Sep 3, 2017)

No bananas on Taiwan for one thing. It is viviparous so produces little babies on its stems (or leaves? I haven't paid close attention lately). Not sure if banana plant does that. The aquatic leaves are really soft almost like an Aponogeton ulvaceaous in appearance though the surface leaves they can develop (probably only if grown out in a pond) are smaller and firmer. Flowers are quite similar.

Bump: Oh and it is much hardier than banana plant IME. I have never had a banana plant last more than a few months. Whereas as I said my Taiwan lasted 3 years in a low tech tank and didn't receive much attention or care.


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## Triport (Sep 3, 2017)

Ha. Just posted a thread in the parameter forum. Had what looks like a nitrite spike in my tank and wasn't sure what was going on and then I checked and a huge mass of Nymphoides aerial roots had completely engulfed the intake pipe.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I moved a few foreground plants around to fill in the open space left from removing the Bacopa 'compact'. I'm going to try and fill in the front left corner with a dense planting of Blyxa japonica and the front right with Lobelia Cardinalis 'small form'. I spread the helferi out and brought the Staurogyne repens out of the right corner and into the middle of the tank. I want to try and grow all the foreground plants so they produce a very dense planting all the way across the front of the tank. 

I am experimenting with the Nymphoides coming out of the middle of the Ludwigia palustris. Not sure how it will look, never know unless I try. Both the Giant Ambulia and Hygrophila 'corymbosa' are on their way out. Not a day goes by I don't find a stem or two of the Ambulia stuck to the circulation pump. It gets so big so fast it doesn't even have time to grow roots and just floats away. The corymbosa has such big leaves it just seems out of place, I much prefer the narrower leaves of the 'siamensis'. 

Just after water change. 


Just after adding Ca and Mg. Calcium sulphate clouds water, it is all clear by the time the lights come on next day.


Starting the 3rd week of adding Mg and Ca to the tank at 4ppm Mg and 12ppm Ca. No real improvement of the AR. I started trimming out some of the stunted and twisted leaves in hopes the new leaves will grow in without issue. 

As most people all ready know Pantanal is such a pain in the ass. This whole past week, it was growing like gang busters, tops were big, beautiful with amazing color. Come home from work on Friday and bunch of the tips had started to ball up and stunt. Did not miss a single day of dosing, Co2 did not change, growth in the tank was not that bad, so what gives? 



Pantanal mid week.


Pantanal Friday afternoon, not happy.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Not much new to report with the tank. Between trading plants, experimenting with different plants and adding some of my nemesis back into the tank to see how they fair, the tank has kinda became a grow out/holding tank of sorts the last couple weeks. 



I knew Hygrophila 'corymbosa' regular was a big plant, but this thing is actually a monster. Once I find someone to take it off my hands it will be removed from the tank, I can't imagine the resources it's using.





AR mini doing not to bad. You'll notice the lighter colored plants with the nice straight leaves at the front of the grouping. I added those after last weeks water change. I'll keep an eye on these newer plants to see how long before they start to act up.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I was asked on another site about my current Par readings and my current dosing. I figured I'd posted the info here as well, just in case someone is interested.

I have not checked Par with this current bulb arrangement. I am using a very similar bulb arrangement as @burr740 and @Greggz, using their data I am guessing I'm somewhere in the neighbourhood of 110-120 maybe even a little higher at sub level. 

This past weekend I made a few small changes to my dosing.

I stopped adding Fe Gluconate (actually been a couple weeks now). For no other reason than I was sick of cleaning the brown build up in my filter tubing, which I think was coming from the Fe Gluconate.
I upped my DTPA Fe to .15ppm instead of just .1ppm. So I actually reduce my Fe dosing by .05ppm. I'll keep an eye on this and adjust with extra DTPA Fe if needed. 

I mixed up a months worth of macros and micros, so I am not tempted to switch things up without giving it enough time to see actual changes if there are any.

Micros before
.1ppm Fe Gluconate
.1ppm DTPA Fe
.06ppm Mn as Manganese Sulphate
.003ppm Cu as Copper Sulphate
.011ppm Zn as Zinc Sulphate
.002ppm Mo as Sodium Molybdate
.025ppm Bo as Borax

Current
.15ppm DTPA Fe
.06ppm Mn as Manganese Sulphate
.003ppm Cu as Copper Sulphate
.011ppm Zn as Zinc Sulphate
.002ppm Mo as Sodium Molybdate
.025ppm Bo as Borax

I normally dry dose my Macros, but I felt like being a mad scientist and decided to mix up a macro solution this time round.
I bumped up my KNO3 from 5ppm to 6ppm because I stopped dosing urea daily and now only dose it on Macro day's. I lowered KH2PO4 a couple weeks ago to normal EI levels, I was dosing 3x EI for no real reason. So far everything seems to be going good.

Before
1/3tsp Kno3 5ppm
1/4tsp Kh2po4 3.5ppm
1/3tsp K2so4 3.3ppm. just because.
.25ppm Urea

Current
6ppm KNO3
1.3ppm KH2PO4
an extra 2.2ppm K2SO4 for a total of 7.5ppm
.25ppm Urea

Once a week after water changes.
12ppm Ca
4ppm Mg


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## benstatic (Oct 15, 2017)

Fantastic grow operation here - gives me something to shoot for!

What is the tall background plant - right side - red & fuzzy?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

benstatic said:


> Fantastic grow operation here - gives me something to shoot for!
> 
> What is the tall background plant - right side - red & fuzzy?
> View attachment 801946


My understanding is it's Cabomba Furcata/Red but could also be Cabomba purple. Either way its a variety of Cabomba.


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## jclee (Jul 15, 2009)

Amazing tank.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


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## vijay_06 (Apr 11, 2017)

Awesome tank and an excellent journal! Thanks for documenting.

Do you use all tap water? If yes, do you know the amount of Ca and Mg in it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

jclee said:


> Amazing tank.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk


Thank you for the kind works.




vijay_06 said:


> Awesome tank and an excellent journal! Thanks for documenting.
> 
> Do you use all tap water? If yes, do you know the amount of Ca and Mg in it?


Again thanks for the kind words.

I use 100% tap water. 

My last reported tap water report, Oct 2016 reports 34.6ppm Ca and 8.99ppm Mg. Which if nothing has changed would technically be enough, but I was seeing some deficiencies that looked to be be related to Ca and Mg being deficient. Mainly Hygrophila 'siamensis 53B', leaves were twisting and stunting. 



I have since removed the plant to try something different, so can't comment on any improvements. It will be making a return to the tank in the near future, let the experiments continue.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Been a while since I updated the journal. 

With the new rimless tank setup on the horizon the 75 has basically gone to [censored][censored][censored][censored]. It has become an over grown, grow out tank over the last month. I will be completely tearing it down in the coming weeks and moving it into the laundry room with the two 40's.



Two weeks ago I decided to lower my light intensity, first and last hour of my 8h photo period consists of 2 super flora's the other six hours is one ZooMed Flora, Power Veg 633, 3000K and ATI purple.

Pantanal is not happy at all. Majority of the tips are stunted, tips that are not stunted are small and colorless. I am not to sure if its from the lower light or my current dosing or even a combination of the two. Dosing change (ABOVE) was .1ppm DTPA Fe and .1pmm Fe Gluconate to .15ppm DTPA Fe. I'm going to leave the light as is and try add .1ppm Fe Gluconate to my micro dosing starting tomorrow.



What I think is Nesaea crassicaulis is turning out to be a very nice looking plant, the peach/pink colour looks amazing. The first side shoot finally popped out on Saturday, you can see it just to the right of the main stem. I hoping it continues to do this as I'd love to see a grouping of this plant in the new rimless.



With Black Friday sales going on I decided to grab a couple more bags of Aquasoil for the new build. Tissue culture cups happened to be 2 for 1, couldn't help myself and grabbed a cup of Utricularia graminifolia and Eriocaulon setaceum.



New build is coming along. Finished the stand this past weekend and picked up the skins this evening. I basically have everything on hand except for the light fixture, which I was holding off on hoping it might go on sale today with it being Cyber Monday and all, but no luck. I'm going with another 6 bulb T5HO hydroponics fixture. I considered buying a couple of SB Reef LEDs but have had good success with T5's, figured no need to change.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Great update. I think the tank looks good untamed and overgrown for a change.

And that Nesaea crassicaulis is a good looking plant. Just added it to my investigate further spreadsheet.

Looking forward to seeing the new setup......I'm expecting it is going to be pretty spectacular!


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Greggz said:


> Great update. I think the tank looks good untamed and overgrown for a change.
> 
> And that Nesaea crassicaulis is a good looking plant. Just added it to my investigate further spreadsheet.
> 
> Looking forward to seeing the new setup......I'm expecting it is going to pretty spectacular!


Thanks @Greggz.

I believe you lowered your light intensity, did you notice any difference in Pantanal? 

Even thought we have different water chemistry, I'm interested in what @burr740 has to say about your Pantanal. 

Went back and looked at your current micro dosing (I think). We are kinda in the same range, with our dosing and KH GH. My KH = 4/5 and GH = 7/8.

You
.15ppm DTPA Fe
.075ppm Mn as Manganese Sulphate
.002ppm Cu as Copper Sulphate
.027ppm Zn as Zinc Sulphate
.0013ppm Mo as Sodium Molybdate
.039ppm Bo as Borax Acid

Me
.15ppm DTPA Fe
.075ppm Mn as Manganese Sulphate
.003ppm Cu as Copper Sulphate
.011ppm Zn as Zinc Sulphate
.002ppm Mo as Sodium Molybdate
.025ppm Bo as Borax


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> Thanks @Greggz.
> 
> I believe you lowered your light intensity, did you notice any difference in Pantanal?
> 
> ...


I've been running less lights for about two weeks now. But keep in mind, I still have about 100 PAR at substrate. The Pantanal has been doing OK, not great, but not stunting or anything. As I noted in my journal, I've let it grow taller for a change, and I think the tops looks fuller with more color. Still not great, but better.

And yes, my KH is 4 and GH is 6. After conversing with Burr this week I am dosing the same micro mix at .15 Fe daily. Yes daily. Going to keep a close eye on things and see how it goes. I also ordered some Gluc and am going to throw some into the mix.

As I've said before, my new motto is WWBD!:smile2: Especially since he won the AGA award.

I'll update as things progress.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Slip I think your Pantanal just needs higher micros. 3x week .2-.3 ppm Fe, B around .03-.035, Zn around .040. 

Fwiw @Greggz is using the last recipe before I discovered the wonders of higher Zn. It seems to be working out though, and should only get better with more or daily dosing. It did pretty well for me too but higher Zn seems better.

Oh and that Nesaea is looking sweet! As you probably know it is known to like really low micros for a lot of folks, and rich acidic sub like your AS, so it'll be interesting to see how it responds if you raise micros. 

You may wind up having to choose which one to make happy between it and the Pantanal. But maybe not, these custom blends dont seem to stunt much of anything.


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## Triport (Sep 3, 2017)

slipfinger said:


> It has become an over grown, grow out tank over the last month.


:|

:climbs up on roof
:flings self off


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Greggz said:


> I've been running less lights for about two weeks now. But keep in mind, I still have about 100 PAR at substrate. The Pantanal has been doing OK, not great, but not stunting or anything. As I noted in my journal, I've let it grow taller for a change, and I think the tops looks fuller with more color. Still not great, but better.
> 
> And yes, my KH is 4 and GH is 6. After conversing with Burr this week I am dosing the same micro mix at .15 Fe daily. Yes daily. Going to keep a close eye on things and see how it goes. I also ordered some Gluc and am going to throw some into the mix.
> 
> ...


I'm guessing i'm also at about 100par at sub. .15 Fe daily....... Keep me in the loop for sure. I always have to keep in mind you and burr are using BDBS as sub and I have AS. Funny thing is I travelled to the states (could not find it in Canada) and purchased 4 bags of BDBS, which was going to be my original substrate. I changed my mind 2 days before I setup the tank and went with AS...



burr740 said:


> Slip I think your Pantanal just needs higher micros. 3x week .2-.3 ppm Fe, B around .03-.035, Zn around .040.
> 
> Fwiw @Greggz is using the last recipe before I discovered the wonders of higher Zn. It seems to be working out though, and should only get better with more or daily dosing. It did pretty well for me too but higher Zn seems better.
> 
> ...


Thanks Burr. I mixed up a supplementary batch of Fe, B and Zn to reflect your recommendations. I dosed it along with my regular micros starting last night, now I wait and see what and how it effects the tank. I'll keep things updated.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Tank had become overgrown over the last couple of weeks, decided it was time to get my elbows wet and the laundry room floor wet as well. I didn't notice the the laundry tub drain was blocked by my surface skimmer sponge and while draining the tank a small flood ensued. My son was the one that noticed it and says to me, "Ah. Yo. Dad. Like, did you know the sink in, like the laundry room is, like over flowing?" Anyways, thank god for all the dirty towels on the floor waiting to go into the laundry machine.

I was holding off on trimming this tank as I wanted to use some of the trimming to plant out the new tank, but its still a couple weeks away and I can't stand to look at the overgrown jungle that is the 75. When all was said and done I trimmed out enough plant material to half fill a 5 gallon bucket. I have absolutely no room in any of my tanks for more trimmings, it pains me to toss everything in the garbage, but I manned up and did the right thing.... I filled the 5 gallon bucket with tank water and now have a bunch of trimming being housed in a bucket. When will it ever end?!

Before


After


If you look closely at the after picture you'll notice a few new additions to the tank, and it's not plant material this time. I was at my LFS yesterday and could not resist the $1/fish sale. So I got myself a dozen Serpae Tetra's, 3 Rummynose and 6 Oto Cats. So far so good, and I'm returning today to grab a dozen or so more Serpae's after work today, so much for being basically fishless!

Like a few other, @Greggz and @burr740 I am experimenting with higher levels of micros basically the same as Burr's homebrew micro mix V5.15. Below is my current micro dosing.

3/4 x per week
.30 ppm DTPA Fe
.075 ppm Mn as Manganese Sulphate
.002 ppm Cu as Copper Sulphate
.03 ppm Zn as Zinc Sulphate
.002 ppm Mo as Sodium Molybdate
.04 ppm Bo as Borax

Pantanal on November 27th


Pantanal after yesterdays trim December 03


Here is a current picture of my AR. Regular AR in the back and mini up front. You'll notice the regular AR is growing nice and flat, no visible stunting at all. On the other if you look at the AR mini you will notice a few twisted and stunted leaves. 



Ammania gracilis I believe? still looking great. Currently my favourite plant in the tank!

November 16


December 03


As mentioned above the new tank build is coming along but is still a couple weeks out. Over the weekend I was able to installed the outer skins and in cabinet LED lighting to finish off the stand. My new 4 bulb T5HO light fixture was delivered, I picked up a couple of Eheim canister filters and 7 bags of ADA AquaSoil. I still need to make my Co2 reactor, pick up an inline heater and a circulation pump. I'm still not 100% sure if I am going to go will lily pipes or just the stock spray bar. I also have to figure out what I am going to do for a background on the new tank, paint it black or use some sort of black background. Anyone have any suggestions?

In all honesty I though it was a great idea to get this new tank, but in hindsight I have no clue why I am subjecting myself to all this extra work. I am not looking forward to draining the current 75, moving it and the stand to the laundry room, than having to set it all back up again. Once that is all done then I get to go through the whole process of setting up the new tank in the current 75's location. My wife has been a trooper through all this, not really asking many question and even helping me move the new stand from the garage to basement. She didn't even blink an eye when she heard a knock on the door and opened it up to find the UPS driver standing there holding my brand new 48" T5HO fixture and four brand new bulbs. Honestly I'm a little worried, things are just a little too quiet! I'm hoping to have everything moved and up and running in the next couple weeks.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Excellent update Slipfinger. Tank is looking great as always. Always interesting to see the before/after trim shots. I know what that takes, and it's a lot more painstaking work than many realize. Nice dedication you have there. 

And funny how these projects begin to take on a life of their own. I've been there many times. It can be a lot of work, but I've never been sorry once I actually got it all done......and I'm sure you will be glad when you can sit back and enjoy what you have created.

I loved seeing the pictures of your Pantanal. Mine responded just like yours to the higher new micro mix. And Burr's, well yeah his are in a whole new league. And that Ammania gracilis is a great looking plant. Might have to give that a try sometime.

Remember to take some pictures during the build. I always enjoy seeing the progress, and maybe somebody can learn something from following along. Good luck and hope it all goes well.

P.S. The laundry sink overflow story was a good one. If it's any consolation, I did that myself once. My wife was not happy with the "fish water" as she called it all over her floor. But nothing a few rolls of paper towel couldn't cure.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Update.

Most things are growing really well, couple plants have started to show issue this past week. First the good.

Pantanal continues to improve, still seems to be growing long and lanky. Ive seen it in my tank in the past with nice wide tops 3" across. 

Last Sunday


Today


Helferi has always grown very nice in my tank. I'm holding off thinning out this batch until I have my new tank set up as I have no run to hold all the trimmed crowns, I'm estimating over 50+ crowns once I separate everything.



Most of the AR still growing without issue.



No clue if adding Ca and Mg would have caused these issues. I skipped adding Ca and Mg to my tank for two weeks leading up till last weeks water change in which I again added Ca and Mg to see if it would help with the Pantanal. It was near the beginning of these two weeks of not adding Ca and Mg that both Ammania gracilis and Bacopa caroliniana were added to the tank. My normal tank water GH is ~7 and KH ~5 I have not checked either of these after adding Ca and Mg. I was adding 12ppm Ca and 4ppm Mg. I did not added it after this weeks water change, I'd like to see if either of these plants show improvement this week without it. On the other hand maybe the higher micros dosing is starting to cause issues with these plants?

Ammania gracilis last Sunday


Today


Bacopa caroliniana major stunting of the tips on select tips.


Of course the after water change FTS to finish it off.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Update:

Like most, as time goes on you get to know your tank and what its telling you. For example, for the past week or so I've started to see the odd tuff of BBA taking foot on my circulation pump, skimmer and spray bar. I also started to see GSA on some of my AR mini and S. Repens leaves. When I start to see this I know its time for a full on filter cleaning/maintenance. This includes completely cleaning the inside of the filter and changing the filter floss, but also removing and cleaning all the tubing, fittings and Co2 reactor. The whole process takes about an hour to complete. While I am doing this I take out the other equipment, including the skimmer and circulation pump and throw them in a bucket with a bleach water mixture. 



After I cleaning and reinstalling all the equipment its time to drain the water and give the front glass a quick wipe. Not much trimming went on this week except for the usual suspects, that being Pantanal and Ambulia. The picture below shows how much water I drain each week, probably close to 75% once a week. 



I use straight tap water to refill the tank, I add the prime in while it is filling back up.



Nothing like the look of a tank after a water change.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Slipfinger nice update, and the tank is looking great! 

And interesting you change 75%, as I change that much as well.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Greggz said:


> Slipfinger nice update, and the tank is looking great!
> 
> And interesting you change 75%, as I change that much as well.


Thanks Greggz. 

I've always done large water changes. At one point I was doing them twice a week, mainly to replenish the tank with Ca and Mg that came from my tap water. 

9ppm Mg and 35ppm Ca

I may just start experimenting with this again.


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## ThatFishThough (Dec 20, 2017)

Hi! Sorry if you've mentioned it before, but what lights are you using on your 40G Breeders? Looks really nice. Are you using the racks with the wood or the wire?


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## king kong (Jul 2, 2012)

Good heavens you guys work your tails off with these tanks with all these different plants staged perfectly, it exhausts me just thinking about it.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

ThatFishThough said:


> Hi! Sorry if you've mentioned it before, but what lights are you using on your 40G Breeders? Looks really nice. Are you using the racks with the wood or the wire?


I am using quad 36" T5ho fixtures. Each fixture has 2 6500k and 2 Super Flora bulbs. 

I am using the Lowes racking with wooden shelves.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I decided to move a stem of AR variegated from one of the 40's to the 75. Currently variegated grows without drama in my 40's, not so much in the past when I try it the 75. I will get this updated as time goes on to see what the outcome is.

Current dosing in the 40's
Macros 3/4 days a week is basically 1/2 EI
3.5ppm KNO3
.7ppm KH2PO2
1.75ppm K2SO4

Micros 3/4 days a week
DTPA Fe .1ppm
Mn .06ppm
Cu .003ppm
Zn .011ppm
Mo .002ppm
B .025ppm

No added Ca or Mg

Variegated in the 40. Some defiances going on but not much twisting or stunting. Sorry for the crap photo.


Stem added to the 75.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Time to get this journal up to speed.
Happy New Year to all...

With the New Year upon us, its time to start a new tank and new scape.

I've had this new tank and stand sitting in my basement for about a month now, procrastination has been holding me back from setting it up. What makes thing a little harder is the fact I went against my better judgement and purchased fished a month back, now I have to deal with the fish as well as the plants.

My plan is to put the new tank and stand where my current tank is and move my current tank to the laundry room with the 40's. Which means a complete tear down and set up of the old tank and a complete set up of the new tank. In the mean time my wife want to paint the basement so I have to paint the wall where the new tank is going to be sitting before I can set the new tank up. I also have to finish add the new breaker and electrical circuit dedicated to the tanks in the laundry rooms. With a total of 4 filter and 3 heaters plus 3 T5 fixtures and all the other odds and ends I've maxed out the current circuit. Lets just say the next couple of days are going to be a little busy.

I started the process tonight and removed all the foreground plants from the 75 and put them in a bucket with a small heater. Tomorrow I remove the all the background plants so I can try and catch all the fish and shrimp and move them into their temporary tank which I setup today using a seeded filter that I had running on one of the 40's for a month or so now.



My original planted bow front tank soon to be used as a temp holding tank for the fish and shrimps.


Foreground plants removed and water changed for fish health....


Last photo of The Dutch Weed Farm. It's been quite the learning experience.
]


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

I figured I keep posting in here until I actually start the new tank, at which point I will start a new journal...

Busy day yesterday. As usual when you start a new project all those unfinished projects you've put off seem to naw at the back of your neck. Anyways I finished the basement about 10 years ago now, at the time I wired it so I could install an actual light switch to control the laundry room lights instead of those little strings you pull to turn the lights on and off. So when I was at home depot I purchased a couple new fluorescent fixtures and a light switch, along with all the other stuff I needed to install the new circuit. Took me about 5 hours to install the new light fixtures and the new circuit which consists of 6 new double receptacles. I now have 2 separate circuits to plug all the tank related items into, over kill...... I know, but peace of mind when you see the spaghetti of plugs coming from the tanks and think to yourself, 'that does not look safe'!

I also ended up having to move the two 40's. Not the original plan, but once I measured everything this configuration gives me the most room to fit everything into the limited space I have. Damn laundry machines in the basement, why can't Canadian home builders, build home like in the UK with the laundry machines in the kitchen, only makes sense. 

After unhooking everything, draining both tanks, moving, filling, and hooking everything back up again, I am not looking forward to moving the 75 at all. But it has to be done, because god for bid I would have to toss the plants still just floating in the bucket.

Off to move the 75!

40's before the move. 


Upper 40 drained and moved.


Now to unhook and move the lower 40.


Finally everything moved and hooked back up.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Been busy slowly reorganizing the basement after the hurricane went through. That would be me throwing anything that was in my way out into the main living area where my son spend half his day playing video games. Good news is I found him yesterday alive and well after being buried under a crap load of stuff for 3 days.....

Tank cleared up nicely, but the sub is dusty as hell. Even if I waved my hand over it, it would kick up dust. I did a water change yesterday and deep vacuumed about a 1/3rd of the tank. The area I vacuumed is now like new, I can stir it with my tweezers and not a speck of dust. Its a slow process and uses a ton of water (I use a Python) but needs to be done. I am planning to do the middle 1/3rd today when I do my water change. 



I ended up throwing out/giving away a bunch of plants, good news one of my plant buddies hooked me up with a dozen or so helferi so I can start over again. Pantanal is already making a come back from being in a bucket for 2 days. You can see the curled and stunted leaves just below the nice new growth.



Finally the reason I did all this..............


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> Finally the reason I did all this..............


That was not nice! Just post an amazing new rimless tank and not any details. Common... :grin2:


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Ben Belton said:


> That was not nice! Just post an amazing new rimless tank and not any details. Common... :grin2:


No fear, my plan is to start a journal about this build......


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Boy I love the look of those tanks. Would not be practical for me, but they sure do look great.

Looks like the start of something special. Looking forward to following this.


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## shamrock62081 (Jan 29, 2006)

slipfinger said:


> I figured I keep posting in here until I actually start the new tank, at which point I will start a new journal...
> 
> Busy day yesterday. As usual when you start a new project all those unfinished projects you've put off seem to naw at the back of your neck. Anyways I finished the basement about 10 years ago now, at the time I wired it so I could install an actual light switch to control the laundry room lights instead of those little strings you pull to turn the lights on and off. So when I was at home depot I purchased a couple new fluorescent fixtures and a light switch, along with all the other stuff I needed to install the new circuit. Took me about 5 hours to install the new light fixtures and the new circuit which consists of 6 new double receptacles. I now have 2 separate circuits to plug all the tank related items into, over kill...... I know, but peace of mind when you see the spaghetti of plugs coming from the tanks and think to yourself, 'that does not look safe'!
> 
> ...


What kind of shelving are you using for the two 40B's?

Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

shamrock62081 said:


> What kind of shelving are you using for the two 40B's?
> 
> Sent from my KFGIWI using Tapatalk


Edsal Boltless Storage Rack

The same unit can be bought at Lowes or Homedepot. It comes as two separate units that can be stacked like in the picture or set up side by side.

Tanks fit like a glove and each shelf is stated to hold 5000lbs.


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

Did you start the journal on the big rimless and I missed it?


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## iamaloner (Jul 10, 2017)

slipfinger said:


> Been busy slowly reorganizing the basement after the hurricane went through. That would be me throwing anything that was in my way out into the main living area where my son spend half his day playing video games. Good news is I found him yesterday alive and well after being buried under a crap load of stuff for 3 days.....
> 
> Tank cleared up nicely, but the sub is dusty as hell. Even if I waved my hand over it, it would kick up dust. I did a water change yesterday and deep vacuumed about a 1/3rd of the tank. The area I vacuumed is now like new, I can stir it with my tweezers and not a speck of dust. Its a slow process and uses a ton of water (I use a Python) but needs to be done. I am planning to do the middle 1/3rd today when I do my water change.
> 
> ...


Any updates? It's been a while since you have posted. Hope all is well!

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

So...... Its been a long time since I last posted, over 7 months to be exact.

What you are looking at below, is my 75 gallon tank in its current condition as of this morning.

​
I've been dreading this post for a long time. I'm extremely ashamed of the current state of all my tanks. Back in January after I set up the two 40 gallon grow out tanks and moved the 75 to make room for my new 80 gal rimless, things were rolling along nicely. I was in heaven, I finally had the grow out tanks I dreamed of to help with my never ending state of collectoritis. Not a single day went by that I didn't find myself elbow deep in a tank, trimming, cleaning, fluffing, and loving every minute of it. At first I enjoyed my time in my 'plant room', never did I consider it work. In fact I found myself sitting at work think about what I was going to do with the tanks when I got home. But as time went on things changed. My nightly visits to the plant room became shorter and shorter with less maintenance being done with each passing week. My weekly water changes started to become bimonthly water changes. Then at some point my Co2 ran out and I had no interest in re-filling it. The only attention the tanks would get is when my wife would say to me, "I think your tanks need some water, they are making a lot of noise". I'd head down and top them back up with cold water straight out of the tap, no prime or anything. If they were lucky, I'd pour a couple 'glugs' of macro and micro into each tank.

@Greggz always says and its so true, the average beginner has no clue the dedication and time it takes to keep these tanks looking good when running high light, high nutrients and rich Co2. Tanks like @Greggz, @burr740 and at one time my 75 to name a few, look great in pictures but it doesn't come without spending multiple hours a week getting your hands wet. When you fail to keep up with weekly maintenance and even simple daily maintenance things turn to shat fast! Trust me I know this all too well. 

The above picture is a far cry from the 75's hayday in mid 2017.

​
One thing that never changed during the last 7 months was my light schedule, sounds scary I know. Two outside bulbs came on for first and last two hours with all six bulbs on for the middle four hours of an eight hour light cycle. But to my surprise the only algae that took over the tank was BBA on all the equipment and a very small amount of blue green algae along the front of the glass just below the substrate. As you can see in the picture below BBA is growing on the equipment quite nicely, but you'd be hard pressed to find a spec of algae on the glass, I estimate the glass has not been cleaned in at least 4 months. 

 

​
Today I decide enough is enough and I set out to resurrect the 75 from its dire state. I spent 5 hours, removing and washing every piece of equipment in the tank. I removed every plant, which there was more floating then there was actually planted. Vacuumed every inch of substrate to remove all the built up mulm and dead plant material. Completely cleaned the main filter and plan to clean the secondary filter next week so as not to completely knock out the bacteria and cause the tank to have cycle again. Hooked up a fresh 20lb cylinder of Co2 and calibrated my pH meter. At one point I had over 26 different species of plants in this tank, when all was said and done I was able to salvage 11 different species. These being, a bunch of Straurogyne repens, 1 stem of Hygrophila corymbosa ‘dwarf’, 2 stems of Hygrophila ‘siamensis 53B’, 4 stems of Mermaid weed, 1 piece of Pogostemon ‘gayi’, 2 stems of Ambulia ‘giant’, 1 stump of Rotala macrandra, 1 stump of Alternanthera ‘rosanervig’, 4 stems of Lobelia Cardinalis ‘small form’, 4 stems of Penthorum sedoides and finally to my surprise a little stem of Ammania gracilis.

​
As for the two 40's and my 80 gal rimless. 

The bottom 40 will be drained tomorrow and sit empty for the foreseeable future, its just to hard to maintain this tank being on the bottom of the shelving unit. The upper tank will be cleaned up tomorrow.
​
The rimless sits in all is glory waiting for the day it sees water. I still need to get some equipment to complete this project, mainly a filter which I am leaning towards another Hydor 600. I'm aiming to have it up and running by the end of September. You guys will be the first to know once its up and running.
​
Anyways, I look forward to chatting and learning with you guys again.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Great update. We all go through phases of greater or less interest....in anything really.

The good news is, you know exactly how to get it back in prime shape if you want to. It really was a smoking tank in it's heyday.

LOL at a couple "glugs"


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

burr740 said:


> Great update. We all go through phases of greater or less interest....in anything really.
> 
> The good news is, you know exactly how to get it back in prime shape if you want to. It really was a smoking tank in it's heyday.
> 
> LOL at a couple "glugs"



Well, they do call it "Estimated Index". Your estimated may be different than others :grin2:
Looking forward to future updates....


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## Grobbins48 (Oct 16, 2017)

What a great post this was. I really appreciate the transparency on this, especially being rather new to planted tanks (pressurized for 6mo maybe?). Really helps set the expectations for people, and the understanding that one tank is difficult enough, multiple is another game (I run a 55 which is progressive g nicely I would say, and a 29 which is completly confused on what it is). 

With the before picture you shared I am excited to see what you will be doing going forward. I'll have to take some time to read through the journal and catch up.


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

Excellent post. Your comments and Greg's are right. Stem tanks are amazing, but they are a nightmare on time. I have a tank I bought years ago that has never seen water. I burned out, got interested in other things, and never set it up. Two years ago I finally set up for the first time an ADA 60p that I had bought 11 years earlier. I went full steam on it. But then I kept having setbacks and it is just a weed farm right now with 2 year old Aquasoil that is pretty much useless mud holding the plants down.

Just a thought, but after you've rested a bit. Consider setting that empty 40 up more in Nature Aquarium style. Some wood or rocks, Crypts, ferns, and other slower growing things. That is what I hope to get done with the 60p. Some rocks, glosso, and Blyxa. Done. Not maintenance free, but not as bad as a stem tank.

I've enjoyed your posts. Take a step back before you just want to throw it all in the trash. Then get back going as you have time. The results of the ADA competition are coming out right now. Some inspiration will be good motivation. :grin2:


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> So...... Its been a long time since I last posted, over 7 months to be exact.
> 
> What you are looking at below, is my 75 gallon tank in its current condition as of this morning.


Well I've got to say this has gotta be one of my favorite posts of all time. 

As you point out, it does take time and dedication, but like any other hobby you do it because you enjoy it. For me the process itself is therapeutic, and I don't look at it like work.

I think one difference for me is that my tank is in the den, so it's a room for chilling, listening to some music, and enjoying the view. I walk over to the tank first thing every time I enter the house. Out of sight can be out of mind. 

And glad to see you back in the game. You clearly had a great deal of success, and I am looking forward to seeing you get the tank back in shape.

Good luck and keep the updates coming.


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## Triport (Sep 3, 2017)

I wish I had remembered to take a pic of my 40g before I tore out all the plants. It was in a much worse state than yours. I realized that I just don't have the consistency to be able to take care of a heavily planted tank long term. And also that I have too many tanks to keep a handle on. So my plantings will be more fish focused and easier, low maintenance plants (no more stem plants as nice as they look!).

The good thing is that feeling of satisfaction after getting a algae covered, over grown tank back into tip-top shape. I have a lot of experience with that as my interest has risen and waned over the past few years.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Just over a full week since I resurrected the 75. I can tell already, this is going to be a battle. But it's a battle in which I plan on winning! Someone mentioned in my local forum, why bother with all this and just focus on setting up the rimless? Good point! Why the hell am I bothering with bringing the 75 back to life? I've already succeeded in setting up multiple tanks, with very few issues. I've never had major issue with setting up new tanks, no major algae outbreaks or green water to battle. In all honesty the hobby has been relatively easy for me algae wise, and why not. I've said it before and I'll say it again. Want to be successful at something? Search out individuals that have had great success and follow what they do, learn from them. There are multiple people on here and other forums that have and are having great success in this hobby. No need to even mention their names, if you are serious about this hobby you should know who they are. If you don't know who they are by now, you are missing out on a wealth of information and knowledge that would take a life time to acquire if you went at this hobby alone. If you seriously don't know who they are, message me, I'll point you in the right direction. 

By no means am I some kind of master, far from it. I would say I've had pretty good success, but I'm not even close to the level of the people I would consider my 'mentors/the ones I follow' in this hobby. I have my fair share of issues, AR mini growing all twisted, Pantanal would grow like gangbuster and then droop and the tip would shrivel up to nothing, Hygro corymbosa of any kind with pin holes and twisted leaves. Just read back in this journal I'm sure I've talked about them all. But one thing I never really battled and have very little experience with is algae. 

So, why not just forget about the 75 and setup the rimless? Simple, the 75 will be a learning experience in battling algae and trust me there is a lot of it still in the tank. It may not be 100% visible when standing back looking at it, but look closer you'll see the substrate is littered with black beard algae (BBA) even the damn snails have BBA growing off them. Just below the substrate on the front glass, lots of blue green algae (BGA). Look at the glass from different angles dust algae (GDA) all over the place along with some green spot algae (GSA) and to top it all off, last night I noticed some string/hair algae growing off a couple of the taller plants. I'm sure there are multiple other forms of algae growing in this tank, just waiting to rear their ugly head. 

In documenting this tanks come back my hope is maybe it will help others that are dealing with algae, learn something. Also, as mentioned above humble myself and teach myself a few things about dealing with major algae issues. At this point the plan is to not use any Excel, H202, no 'chemical algaecide at all. Instead I will rely on what I know, good old fashioned husbandry skills, nutrients and Co2. Get this stuff in check and firing on all cylinders and it should breed success. If not, screw it! I'll move on to the rimless and this journal will come to an end. :grin2:

A few pictures to document the algae and a few before and after 8 days growth of some new tissue culture plants. 

BBA all over the Aquasoil....


One of many spots of BGA below the substarte.


This guy has a BBA tail.


Random before after pics tissue culture plants.

AR mini
Before

8 days growth


Pogostemon erectus
Before

8 days growth


Hygrophila 'araguaia'
before

8 days growth


Final the FTS!


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> I've said it before and I'll say it again. Want to be successful at something? Search out individuals that have had great success and follow what they do, learn from them.


This is so true. When I got started, I began by reading a couple of really helpful journals. I read them, then re-read them, then re-read them again, and then when I felt lost, went back and read them one more time. Started out thinking this is a bunch of mumbo jumbo in a foreign language, then some things began to soak in.

I came up with a new mantra.

WWBD.

What would Burr do!:wink2::wink2:

It has served me well over the years. And I would throw Saxa Tilly (Pikez) in that same category.




slipfinger said:


> even the damn snails have BBA growing off them.


LOL good one!



slipfinger said:


> Random before after pics tissue culture plants.
> 
> Final the FTS!


Based on what I am seeing here, this tank will be back to it's former glory in no time.

And documenting it should be very helpful to others. Nice work!


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Spent most of Sunday working on the tanks. I started out by rearranging and changing out some of the bulbs in the fixture for the 75. I had a few new bulbs I had purchased back in the beginning of the year and of course never got around to changing them. The new bulbs consisted of a ZooMed Coral Sun Actinic 420, ZooMed Flora Sun and a couple of cheap hydroponic shop 6500k and a 3000k bulbs. I also wanted to swap out the PowerVeg 633 for the 660. Not a big change but the new configuration looks something like this now.



Off hand I can't remember which Flora bulb is in the front and which is in the back, but I think I have it correct.
Front to Back 
Giesemann Super Flora
3000K
ZooMed 420
PowerVeg 660
6500K
ZooMed Flora?

The next thing on the to-do list was to remove all the in-tank hardware from the 40 and the 75 and soak it in some bleach and water to kill any BBA and whatever other algae was living on the hardware. I had already cleaned all the hardware in the 75 the weekend before, but didn't bleach everything and I was noticing a little BBA coming back. I'm pretty sure I killed it all this time!

Below is a photo of the dying BBA (couple of heavy doses of Excel) on the circulation pump and in the background also some on a random filter pipe in the 40.


And the after picture of the 40 all squeaky clean. Cleaned every piece of hardware, the glass, lightly vacuumed the sub, reset-up the Co2 and added a newly filled 20lber. 
 

TIP: If you want to start the process of ridding your tank of an algae issue, start by clean everything in the tank that can be physically cleaned. 

I added a few new emersed plants to the tanks to see if I can get them transition. Last time I did this out of 10 stems I think I was successful in get one tiny stem to transition, the rest just melted away. I know one is Nesaea pedicellata 'Golden', the other I was told was Nesaea pedicellata? And the other Ammania something or another. I’ve not really had any success with any of these plants in the past.




Over all most things are growing well in the 75, still a bunch of BBA all over the substrate and a few plants have a little on the older growth. I mixed up new batches of Macro's and Micro's based off Burr's most recent versions, as of a week or so ago, but I could be 2 versions behind already! I'll post my nutrient values along with a few plant issues I noticed before I started dosing this latest batch in another post.

Some random pictures since we all like pictures.

Mermaid weed, one top is a deep red/orange colour. I hope this is not like Pantanal, when ever it would go a deep red like this it would mean stunting was soon to follow.


This guy just doing his thing, look close you can see all the BBA on the Aquasoil.


Picture does not do it justice, but the Blyxa in the tank has some real deep red coloured leaves.


Rotala Macrandra 'mini' and Ludwigia inclinata var. verticillata 'curly/tornado'


Both 'grow out' tanks.


Finally the latest FTS of the 75.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Really good to see you back in the game. 

I've got to tell you, that first shot of the BBA on the equipment made me a little queasy! Good job getting it all cleaned up.

Looks like things are moving along well now. Great shot of the Mermaid Weed, and the curly/tornado is an interesting looking plant. 

Keep the updates coming. Very inspirational the way you pulled it all back together.

When's the 80G rimless scheduled for launch????


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

As mentioned, here are some pictures of the issues I am currently seeing in the tank. For the record these issues were present before I started dosing my current batch of nutrients that I will list below.

I'm not surprised at all that I am seeing these issues. These are the same issues I saw back in the day and I've posted in this very journal about them. In saying all that I did start out dosing the exact same macro's and micro's that I was using before I 'walked' away from the tanks. Yes they sat for that whole time other then me pouring a few glugs into the tank once in a while. 

According to my notes, here is what I was adding back then.
I mixed these on November 28th 2018. Don't ask, I did not write down why I was at these levels.
Weekly totals 
18ppm N
.75ppm Urea
3.9ppm P
6.75ppm K

Totals per dose. Dosed 5 days a week. 
Fe .325ppm
Mn .075ppm
Cu .003ppm
Zn .04ppm
Mo .002ppm
B .035ppm 

Here are some current issues.

Rotala wallichii, some stems doing just fine and others are stunted.


Corymbosa 'compact', leaves all twisted and holes in the bottom leaves. 


This is what the same plant looked like when I added to the 75 from the 40.


siamensis 53b, white spots on leaves and holes in lower leaves.


Bacopa caroliniana, easy plant to grow, but stunts for me in the 75. Perfect in the 40.


Finally this nasty looking thing. For the record this sat in the 40 without nutrients and Co2 for months and looked good, I wish I had a picture.


My current dosing #'s, which as I mentioned will look no different than Burr's latest, (according to his journal) mix. 
weekly totals, 
25ppm N
7ppm P
30ppm K

Dosed 5 days a week.
Fe .2ppm
Mn .05ppm
B .073ppm
Zn .05ppm
Mo . 00175ppm
Cu .001ppm
Ni .0005ppm 

As I see changes for the better or worse i will update. The plan is to dose these levels until this batch runs out which should be four weeks.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

slipfinger said:


> This is what the same plant looked like when I added to the 75 from the 40.


Hot damn that thing looks radioactive... unless your ferts are predator blood or something.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Bump:


Greggz said:


> Really good to see you back in the game.
> 
> I've got to tell you, that first shot of the BBA on the equipment made me a little queasy! Good job getting it all cleaned up.
> 
> ...


Thanks Greggz. Ya I'm really enjoying it again. I literally walk in the door from work and head straight downstairs to look at the tanks. My wife just shakes her head in that slow, you have to be kidding me kind of shake!

Ya, the BBA was quite the specimen!

I just order the filter for the rimless and i'm gathering the parts for new DIY Co2 reactor. The plan is to have it set-up and planted by the end of the month! Fingers crossed.



Wobblebonk said:


> Hot damn that thing looks radioactive... unless your ferts are predator blood or something.


Nope that's what it looks like with no added ferts, no Co2 and about 6 hours of light a day, grown in 7 month old Aquasoil. 

Here's a different shot with some Mermaid in the picture, notice how fine leaved the Mermaid is compared to the stuff pictured above growing in the 75.


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## jfish043 (Jan 13, 2017)

Nice


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

As of late I've been seeing this trend towards people actually scaping their farm tanks. So today I figured what hell, I decided to got my hands wet and arranged the plants in the 75 to resemble some form of a scape. Still looks like ass, lots of plants still need to grow out and I ran out of time on the right side of the tank. 

I don't really have much to add so on to the pictures!

Before FTS


After FTS


The below picture was taken 21 days ago. I'm amazed at how quick things can grow when everything is firing on all cylinders.


Experimental plants. AR variegated, Nesaea pedicellata 'Golden' back right of the photo, and I have no clue really what the others are, they were listed as Nesaea pedicellata (in the back behind the AR variegated and to the left of the AR, Ammania something or another. 


21 day old AR from tissue culture. You can see what they looked like when I first planted them a few posts above.


Helferi coming along nice.


Hygrophila 'araguaia' has grown like crazy, time to sell some of this already.


Something weird I've noticed and been keeping an eye on is this one stem of Mermaid weed that is an amazing red colour but it seems to be stunted compared to the other 3 in the tank.

Finally, I put together this bad boy, 24" x 3" reactor. Added a burp valve on the top so I can bleed the air out after I clean the filter. Current one is a PITA, I have to flip it upside down to get all the air out, which is no easy task. I'm Planning to put it to the test tomorrow, if it works out I will make another one for the rimless.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

slipfinger said:


> As of late I've been seeing this trend towards people actually scaping their farm tanks.
> 
> I'm amazed at how quick things can grow when everything is firing on all cylinders.
> 
> Experimental plants. AR variegated, Nesaea pedicellata 'Golden' back right of the photo, and I have no clue really what the others are, they were listed as Nesaea pedicellata (in the back behind the AR variegated and to the left of the AR, Ammania something or another.


I am disappointed that all my tanks are farm tanks.
Only take pictures as to not show the ceramic plugs everything is planted in.

All eight cylinders with new plugs and wires make a difference!

I've been years and everything is still an experiment.

Looks like you've reached an important milestone, the ability to put it all back together again! :grin2:


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

That's looking like a lot more than a "farm" tank to me.

Amazing how quickly you righted the ship. 

Any idea of what PAR is at the substrate? With both partial and full lighting?

Too many nice plants to mention them all. But the AR Mini is an impressive bunch in a short amount of time, and that lone stem of red Mermaid Weed is very interesting.

Will be curious to see how the experimental plants fare. You just never know.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Maryland Guppy said:


> I am disappointed that all my tanks are farm tanks.
> Only take pictures as to not show the ceramic plugs everything is planted in.
> 
> All eight cylinders with new plugs and wires make a difference!
> ...


Once i start the rimless this will truly become a farm tank. As it stands now, I'm messing around with it to try out different layouts. 

Even in my 'display' tank I've always had experimental plants, this is what makes this hobby so much fun and cause you to pull your hair out!




Greggz said:


> That's looking like a lot more than a "farm" tank to me.
> 
> Amazing how quickly you righted the ship.
> 
> ...


Ya I'm truly surprised at how quick things have turned around. 

I'm not 100% sure what my current par would be, but if I could guess 'HIGH'. I'm running 6 bulbs about 24" off the substrate on a 75gal tank for 6hours a day. If I could hazard a guess 140/150 maybe higher. @burr740 what is your current par on your 75 and are you running your 6 bulb unit with all 6 bulbs or just 4 bulbs? I am running a very similar bulb layout to what Joe was running on 120gal. 

As for the Mermaid Weed, something interesting I meant to post last night.

When I was moving the plants around I noticed the 'nice' red one was throwing off a bunch of aerial roots near to bottom. When I looked at the roots you could tell something was up and a closer look revealed the stem had actual rotted and the new roots were growing just above the rotten portion of the stem. So the nice red Mermaid Weed is actually nutrient deficient. Goes to show you how much some plants actually take nutrients up by the root system.



Below is the root system from one of the heathy plants.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

PAR at the sub is around 100. I swapped over to a 4 bulb unit. I'd run 6 but these hydroponic fixtures are very wide, that unit is about as wide as the tank, which I dont like


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

​


burr740 said:


> PAR at the sub is around 100. I swapped over to a 4 bulb unit. I'd run 6 but these hydroponic fixtures are very wide, that unit is about as wide as the tank, which I dont like


Ya it might not be as high as I think. I was going off my results when I had the par meter and I was getting readings in the 160 to 170 range at the sub, but that is when I had 3 6400k bulbs in the fixture. Post found here. 

Par readings with 3 6400K bulbs in the fixture. Higher # is with all 6 bulbs running, lower is with just 2 bulbs running.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> ​
> Ya it might not be as high as I think. I was going off my results when I had the par meter and I was getting readings in the 160 to 170 range at the sub, but that is when I had 3 6400k bulbs in the fixture.


Keep in mind Joe is running a 4 bulb fixture now, and getting 100 PAR. All of our tanks are 18" wide, so it's a good comparison.

I run 6 bulbs about 29" from the substrate and get about 115. Now keep in mind I run two heavily colored low PAR bulbs. If I swap just one of those out for a higher PAR bulb, I go right to 135 PAR. Sure I would be closer to 150 PAR if I swapped them both out.

And you are 5" closer to the substrate, so I have no doubt you could be at that 160/170 range. 

Which I must say is an impressive amount of light, and I find interesting. When I was at closer to 135 PAR, I had more issues with algae. Of course, many things have changed since then, which tempts me to try turning it up again for awhile.......hmmmmmm.....interesting stuff.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Quick update.

Bunch of deliveries where waiting for me when I got home today. 

First a few new additions for the tank, both of these are from a local Canadian company producing tissue cultures. Everything arrive in great health and large portions! I believe there was about 8 individual plants in each cup. 

Eriocaulon King Crimson, the first thought that came to my mind when I put them in the tank was, they look fake!



Eriocaulon Hainan Island.



Second. New burr micros. I was running out of a few of the elements I need to mix up my micro mix. Thanks to @burr740 I didn't need to order pounds of this stuff. Thanks again Joe!



Finally. The filter for the rimless tank arrived, meaning this baby might be set up and planted this weekend. But in saying that I am out of town the end of next week for 5 days. Probably not smart to set this all up with new Aquasoil and walk way from it for 5 days. We'll see!




In other news the damn Mermaid weed is at it again, doing something I've personally never seen in my tank. They are throwing a bunch of new plantlets just below the tops of the plant. I've never seen this before.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

I just grabbed some King Crimson from ABC too! Crazy big portions!! 

If you want to find out your PAR just let me know. I've got a Seneye PAR meter that could easily make its way to you if a few plants came back with it


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

MCFC said:


> I just grabbed some King Crimson from ABC too! Crazy big portions!!
> 
> If you want to find out your PAR just let me know. I've got a Seneye PAR meter that could easily make its way to you if a few plants came back with it


Ya ABC is doing some great work, can't wait to see what else they have in the pipeline. They maybe our future source of some of the harder to come by plants :smile2: They sent me out some Alternanthera reineckii ‘Ocipus’ to try out, they just listed it on their site. I'll post some picks on Sunday along with my update. 

Regarding the Seneye, I'd take you up on that offer. The PAR meter that I have access to is one of those, put your name on the sign out list, wait for months because everyone keeps it waaaay longer than the one week limit.

Regardless of the PAR meter, anything you see in the tank you want let me know, I have no problem sending them your way. If we could elevate this hobby to a quarter of the US hobby when it comes plant varieties/species and the way they sharing plants, we'd be heading in the right direction. As it stands now we are so far behind them, and losing ground everyday.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Dilemma

Aquasoil or something inert, PFS or BDBS? 

I currently have 9 bags of AS sitting here. The plan is to use it in the rimless (not all of course), but I'm really sitting on the fence with this one. I know all the pro's when it comes to growing plants in AS, but honestly there are just as many negatives, especially when it comes to scaping a dutch tank. My biggest issue with it is how messy it is when moving things around, and in a dutch tank full of fast growing stems its happening a lot! Most of the best kept 'true' dutch tanks use inert gravel with nutrients added to the substrate. Just read this article by Bart Laurens, 99% of these tanks are inert substrate. Makes you really go, Hmmmm! 

Of course there as been the issue with crap quality AS as of late, multiple people on here and FB have reported it going to mush in a very short amount of time. One of my grow out tanks experienced this, in say that I bought one bag of AS off a random guy, that particular bag seemed to be really 'dusty' compared to the other bags I had bought from my local ADA dealer. I believe I wrote about it in this journal somewhere. Currently that tank is sitting with nothing in it because the soil is so bad, if my dog, not me farts near it, the soil stirs up and clouds the water. I have heard rumours of 'Fake' soil floating around the interwebs, can't confirm this, but I see no reason why there won't be fakes. You can get fake everything these days on the net. All my current bags were bought from my local ADA dealer, so I'm not too concerned with it being fake. 

I am so on the fence to what I should do here............. 

Go ahead with the original plan, and use AS?
Change things up and get my hands on (ideally) BDBS, which I would have to take a road trip to the good old US of A since its not easy to get here in Canada. 

Edit- what I do know is what ever I decide, I will being using the opposite in my other big tank. 

First world issues, I know!


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Soil capped with BDBS is a possibility.
3/4" of soil capped with 1-1/4" of BDBS.

Must be some sort of coal slag blasting material local to you?


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Soil capped with BDBS is a possibility.
> 3/4" of soil capped with 1-1/4" of BDBS.
> 
> Must be some sort of coal slag blasting material local to you?


Thanks for the suggestion MLG. 

I've tried the soil over PFS option in the past, grows plants like crazy. But again messy as hell no matter how careful you are. 

I've sourced a few places that sell it but they want me to buy a skid of 40 bags. Trust me I've thought about buying the whole skid and selling off what I don't need. 

I went through this whole dilemma a few years back and when visiting the states bought 4 bags of BDBS, ended up going AS. I sold the 4 bags at a small profit within 5 minutes of posting on my local FB group.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Going on 3.5 months with aquasoil in the 50, Im not seeing a whole lot of difference in growing plants compared to the sand tanks. Only one or two species I can definitely say do better.

Planting delicate things is 10x better in sand, zero dust, can uproot with reckless abandon.

AS takes less NO3, more PO4, probably can get by with less micros.

I think if your planning on a lean dosing routine AS would do better. But if you're in more of an EI frame of mind go with sand especially for a Dutch style tank


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

burr740 said:


> Going on 3.5 months with aquasoil in the 50, Im not seeing a whole lot of difference in growing plants compared to the sand tanks. Only one or two species I can definitely say do better.
> 
> Planting delicate things is 10x better in sand, zero dust, can uproot with reckless abandon.
> 
> ...


Your success with BDBS alone speaks volumes! Doesn't hurt that you can pick up 200lbs of the stuff for the same price as one bag of AS.

I am not currently dosing less of anything in my 75, EI +. I'm going to have to start to play around a bit with my dosing though, a few of the normal suspects are not liking something. Reduce lighting will be first on the list.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> Eriocaulon King Crimson, the first thought that came to my mind when I put them in the tank was, they look fake!


That stuff is crazy cool looking. 

Interesting to see how it adjusts. And you are right, at first glance it looks fake.

Lot's of great new additions there. Very nice.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

Feel like a drive to Mississauga instead of across the border? Manus Abrasives carries Black Magic blasting sand. Supposed to be the same stuff as BDBS. I tried to get some but the closest shop is in Vancouver, and they wanted to charge me like $80 per bag to ship haha. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

MCFC said:


> Feel like a drive to Mississauga instead of across the border? Manus Abrasives carries Black Magic blasting sand. Supposed to be the same stuff as BDBS. I tried to get some but the closest shop is in Vancouver, and they wanted to charge me like $80 per bag to ship haha.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


They are 10 minutes from my work. 

Tried them about a year ago. They only stock Black Beauty in Manitoba and they won't bring it into Mississauga store unless I buy a whole skid, 64 bags! 

Might be time to give them another call.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

slipfinger said:


> They are 10 minutes from my work.
> 
> Tried them about a year ago. They only stock Black Beauty in Manitoba and they won't bring it into Mississauga store unless I buy a whole skid, 64 bags!
> 
> Might be time to give them another call.


Great minds think alike, though fools seldom differ >

Shoot me a PM on here or FB if you want to work out the details on that PAR meter.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

MCFC said:


> Great minds think alike, though fools seldom differ >
> 
> Shoot me a PM on here or FB if you want to work out the details on that PAR meter.


While looking to see where and how long it would take me to drive to the closest TSC store in the US, google took me to Canada's version of BDBS. Looking at the SDS sheet for it, it seems to be very similar to US Minerals BDBS. Then I just happened to be reading through journals and came upon @Quagulator journal and he is using it in his new 90gal setup, waiting on a response from him to see if he has had any issues with it at all.

There is hope!


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

The 75 is really starting to fill in nicely! 

I'm starting to see a small amount of twisting in the AR mini and variegated, so I decided to dose 2ppm Mg which is about 1 1/4 tsp worth. My latest water report says I have 9ppm Mg and 35ppm Ca, figured I had nothing to lose and I've heard that adding a little extra Mg has helped flatten out AR leaves. I'll give this a week or so, if I see it getting worse then it will be time to reduce my micro dosing, I'll drop down to 4 days a week from 5. I also need to thin this bunch out a little, probably not helping. 




I know I've been talking about Mermaid Weed a lot as of late, but its such an interesting plant. As I mentioned above one of the stems sprouted a bunch of new plantlets right near the top portion of the stem. This morning when I turned the lights on to do a water change I noticed the top of the plant had stunted and was pale coloured. I would suspect all the nutrients and energy was going into growing the new plantlets, the top growth suffered. In the end I pinched of 8 new stems, I could only imagine the energy needed to grow this many new stems. You'll also notice the newer growth on the one stem that was stuck because the plant was not able to get any nutrients from the roots due to rot.



In other news. Because I needed the Co2 reg and tank from the 75 for the rimless, I switched the 75 over to the setup that I used on the two 40's. Basically its one solenoid split to two needle valves, each with there own bubble counter. On the original 75 Co2 system I could eye ball setting up the Co2 by the steady stream of bubbles in the counter, plus I have a monitor measuring pH 24/7. I move and setup the new split system, set the bubble counter to the normal steady stream I am used to see and head off to do other things. Few hours later just as lights are coming on I look over at the monitor and pH has only dropped to 6.6 normally at lights on its 6.1. WTF! I pull out my soapy spray bottle and spray everything done, thinking maybe there is a leak. No leak! I turn up the Co2 and bubbles are flying out the counter, maybe my eye balling levels is not so good after all. Then it dawns on me, the bubble counter on this setup is different then the one of the setup from the 75, quickly switch the bubble counters and low and behold I can actually count the bubbles coming out the old counter from the 75. Adjust the needle valve to see the bubbles the way I normally see them and within half hour pH is down to 6.1. The opening in the bubble counter off the 75 is much bigger and allows a bigger bubble to pass through it, meaning more Co2 per bubble. Might be time for me to invest in a flow meter, would have caught this right off the bat.



As mentioned already I found some BDBS at my local TSC store, which they didn't carry last time I was on the hunt for it. You're looking at four 50lb bags rinsed and ready to go, you'll also see the reactor I built yesterday for the rimless. I now have almost everything I need to set up the rimless, except the black vinyl for the back glass. I'm hoping to source something this week.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Man that 75 is already a stunner!

What happened to the Mermaid weed when it started throwing out new stems, it became unhappy for some reason, first, and then produced new side shoots. 

It's a survival mechanism that a lot of touchy species are prone to do. The plant gives up on the main top and put all its energy toward reproducing itself with new stems. As long as the main top is happy there'll be no side shoots

Depends on the species of course, a lot of plants make side stems naturally. But stuff like pantanal, most rotalas, mermaid weed, pogo kim, if these ever start throwing out side shoots the main top is about to stunt, or already has

Nice reactor!


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

burr740 said:


> Man that 75 is already a stunner!



Ya I'm pretty impressed myself how quick it has turned around. There is still some algae (BBA) growing on the substrate, but with each passing day it seems to be disappearing. Plus when I do water changes the AS granules with BBA seem to float easier and I'm able to vacuum a far amount of it out.



burr740 said:


> What happened to the Mermaid weed when it started throwing out new stems, it became unhappy for some reason, first, and then produced new side shoots.


Ya, I'm pretty sure my current micro mix is a little on the heavy side when it comes to B maybe even FE. I'm up at .073 PPM B and .2 ppm Fe, 5 days a week, I'm going to reduce this to 4 and see what happens.

I am also driving this tank pretty hard light wise, I'm running all six bulbs for 6 out of my 8 hour photo period.

I know Nesaea and Ammania are not liking something. I've stopped worrying about them, I've learned to pick my battles, and they are not currently high on the list.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

slipfinger said:


> I know Nesaea and Ammania are not liking something. I've stopped worrying about them, I've learned to pick my battles, and they are not currently high on the list.


Great words of advice. More should heed it. 

I see many posts about an individual problem plant, when rest of tank is going well. Most times better to just let it go than jeopardize the health of others. Then find more that like the soup you are serving. 

That being said, we have all banged our head against the wall with some plants. But reality is EVERY planted tank has certain plants that simply don't flourish in it. And Ammannia are one of the usual culprits.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

slipfinger said:


> Finally, I put together this bad boy, 24" x 3" reactor. Added a burp valve on the top so I can bleed the air out after I clean the filter. Current one is a PITA, I have to flip it upside down to get all the air out, which is no easy task. I'm Planning to put it to the test tomorrow, if it works out I will make another one for the rimless.



Looks nice! 

I just made a new one for my 120, but went 36” x 2”. Any thoughts on wider vs longer? 

I see people going with both a “tee” and an elbow for the bottom fitting. I went elbow. You went “tee”. Any thoughts on the difference between the two? 

And how do you get you CO2 into it. Just the classic drill a hole and pull the tubing through? 




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

MCFC said:


> Looks nice!
> 
> I just made a new one for my 120, but went 36” x 2”. Any thoughts on wider vs longer?
> 
> ...


I had a 2"x 30" on the 75 before this and was getting bubbles into the tank. The one you see above is 3"x 24" and I have yet to see a single bubble since I hooked it up to the 75. My understanding is the water moves slower through the 3" pipe and allows the Co2 to dwell longer....

I just built another one, pictured below. I went with a 90 on the top of this on, for no other reason then I forgot to buy another couple and had the 90 on hand. I'll let you know if there is any difference.

On these models I stoled burr's design and went with a 1" tee in line before the reactor. I will run the same 1" tee design for the Co2 line.



Here's the other reactor I just made. The small tube coming out the top is for bleeding the air after I clean the filter.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

My two big reactors both have elbows on the bottom. But it seems like having a T might do better because the water isnt just wooshing out in the same direction. It sorta has to stop and change direction, probably swirls around a good bit right there before getting pushed in the other direction.

Using these ball valves has shown me what a big difference even a slight increase in resistance at the end will do, via more internal pressure.

Idk just thinking out loud, but I would not be surprised if a T is more efficient


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## Grobbins48 (Oct 16, 2017)

burr740 said:


> My two big reactors both have elbows on the bottom. But it seems like having a T might do better because the water isnt just wooshing out in the same direction. It sorta has to stop and change direction, probably swirls around a good bit right there before getting pushed in the other direction.
> 
> Using these ball valves has shown me what a big difference even a slight increase in resistance at the end will do, via more internal pressure.
> 
> Idk just thinking out loud, but I would not be surprised if a T is more efficient


I would think the T would cause more back pressure, helping to dissolve the CO2, where as to your point, the elbow is less restrictive and 'wooshing' the water out! And yeah those ball valves are great for small adjustments.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

burr740 said:


> My two big reactors both have elbows on the bottom. But it seems like having a T might do better because the water isnt just wooshing out in the same direction. It sorta has to stop and change direction, probably swirls around a good bit right there before getting pushed in the other direction.
> 
> Using these ball valves has shown me what a big difference even a slight increase in resistance at the end will do, via more internal pressure.
> 
> Idk just thinking out loud, but I would not be surprised if a T is more efficient


I re-read what @MCFC and see that he was asking about the bottom and not the top of the reactor.

As @burr740 and @Grobbins48 mentioned I felt it would cause a little more back pressure compared to the sweep of a 90. 

Another reason for the tee was I added a 2" threaded plug in bottom so if in the future I want to add bio-balls or something like that I have access to the inside of the reactor.

Like others I also added a ball valve on the outflow which I have slightly closed. It seems to be working. I'm not seeing any bubbles in the tank at all, but I won't say I am using any less Co2.

I'll throw up a picture of the finished product before I hook it all up.

On another note I have been considering splitting the line again and adding a in tank diffuser. Not because I need to add anymore Co2, I am currently getting the drop I need, mainly to throw a fine mist of Co2 around the tank. We'll see.


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## Georgiadawgger (Apr 23, 2004)

Dang that's impressive. TLDR so did you figure out the chemistry? As in the phosphates for the reds/iron ratio? 

The colors just pop and looks great. 

And FWIW, any recommendations on a "purchasable" CO2 reactor? I just don't have the time nor energy to build my own like I had 10 years ago. This rinky dink contraption from Amazon seems to work OK, but I believe I need something more sustainable. 

Nice scape. Very nice.


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## slipfinger (Jun 8, 2016)

Georgiadawgger said:


> Dang that's impressive. TLDR so did you figure out the chemistry? As in the phosphates for the reds/iron ratio?
> 
> The colors just pop and looks great.
> 
> ...


I don't think I'll ever figure out the right chemistry, I'm changing things all the time. This tank has become my grow out tank that's why I don't update it much anymore. If interested you can have a look at my rimless journal I list my current dosing routine. That tank has been pretty stable with the same dosing route since it started, everything seems to be happy. I also switched gears and went away from Aqua Soil and went with an inert substrate. 

As for the reds popping, a lot of that has to do with my bulb combination. I am still messing with different bulb combinations on the rimless, so far I have not found one that allows the moss wall to pop but keeps the plants looking 'good'.

The only commercially produced reactors that seems to be good are from nilocg.com. But honestly if you have 30 minutes to spare you can throw together a DIY reactor, they are actually pretty simple to make. 

Here is the 75 as it currently sits. Things look really red because of the heavy red colour coming from the bulb combination being used.


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