# Discus database



## lipadj46 (Apr 6, 2011)

It's an OK start but I think you missed the mark on many things IMO. Here is the best beginners guide to discus by a member here, read it and compare notes:

http://forum.simplydiscus.com/showthread.php?86009-Beginner-s-Guide-to-Getting-Started-with-Discus

Some things I do not agree with:

1) Large daily water changes are pretty much the standard to *grow out* discus to say otherwise is just misleading
2) a 3 ft tank is too small for adult discus (OK for growing out or breeding pairs), minimum tanks size for a group of 5 discus is a 4 ft 55 gallon tank.
3) 86 F is not really needed, I find 82 degrees the perfect temp from growout to adults
4) There is a lot of mumbo jumbo about substrate and what discus you can keep with what substrate, never heard of such things. IMO gravel is a terrible substrate, bare bottom or sand is best for easy clean up
5) Black backgrounds will not show off any discus to their fullest (pigeon or otherwise), except maybe wilds where you want to see their stress bars (like heckels), bright backgrounds are best in general
6) There is no ideal pH, domestic discus can prosper at any pH even up in the 8's, as long as it is stable.
7) There is no need to treat a discus during QT with any meds, just lots of clean water. Your QT process seems like a recipe for dead discus for the beginner that does not know the dangers of KMnO4
8) White poop is not a sign of tapeworms, tapeworms coming out of a discus is a sign of tapeworms. White poop is a sign of flagellates. Also generally discus with tapeworms will eat, discus with flagellates will not eat.
9) Metro does not treat tapeworms, it treats flagellates (and some other parasites), to treat tapeworms you need another wormer like praziquantal and others.
10) It is nearly impossible to identify male or female discus by looking at them (unless you are Discus Hans and he even is wrong sometimes). You find out the sex by watching a pair mate. The one that lays eggs is the female and the one that does the runs over the eggs is the male. Females often pair with females so just because you have a pair laying eggs does not mean you have a male and a female.
11) Ich is rarely seen in discus tanks due to the high temps and numerous water changes. If you experience ich you are doing something terribly wrong

Again I would read over Paul's guide, it is very well written and vetted by some of the best discus keepers around


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## steakman (Feb 3, 2012)

Discus is not for the fainted hearts. They are not hard to keep but demand a super clean water and environment (lots of work).

Buying young discus and raise them require a lot of work and know how. Within a few months, if your young discus don't grow to a certain size, they'll be forever stunted (large eyes, football body shape ... etc).

Buying full grown discus cost a lot more money, but you have a better chance to keep it healthy for sometimes.

Bare bottom tank is the easiest way to keep their environment and water clean, but changing water 2-3 times a week 60% to 80% of tank's water volume is the norm.

For some, after a few months of excitements wear off, and hard work kicks in, people tend to neglect the water change. Discus get sick and die.

I am not trying to scare anyone who wants to keep discus. But you have to prepare yourself or else there will be a lot of heartache.

Discus in general fall into 2 groups or strains: 1 from Europe and the other from Asia.

European strain seems to produce larger size of discus and healthier than Asian strain, even though their colors are not as great.

Number one important thing is doing research to know from whom to buy your discus from. 

There are a handful of breeders and importers are well known to sell the best discus in both terms, health and quality. 

And watch out for quite a lot of bad breeders and sellers to sell you nothing but sick, and stunted discus.

SM


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## Achintya (Jun 22, 2013)

thanx all for your suggestions and correct me.


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