# Iwagumi 20g - first pressurized co2 tank



## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Outstanding, great job!


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## zenster (Jan 27, 2017)

Nice tank! I like how its 6cm wider than the ADA 60P. I'm using the IKEA Besta stand too except I didn't add an extra cabinet on top. Right now the tank is sitting perfectly at eye level when I'm sitting down watching TV. Our equipment is fairly similar so I took a photo of inside the cabinet to show you how I configured everything (check out my thread in the journal forum). For additional strength I joined all the pieces of the Besta cabinet with silicone on top of the hardware that came with the cabinet to prevent flexing. I also added a solid wooden brace underneath the top panel for additional support. After all this I tested the cabinet's strength by sitting and standing on top and it took my weight (220 lbs) without any issues.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

zenster said:


> Nice tank! I like how its 6cm wider than the ADA 60P. I'm using the IKEA Besta stand too except I didn't add an extra cabinet on top. Right now the tank is sitting perfectly at eye level when I'm sitting down watching TV. Our equipment is fairly similar so I took a photo of inside the cabinet to show you how I configured everything (check out my thread in the journal forum). For additional strength I joined all the pieces of the Besta cabinet with silicone on top of the hardware that came with the cabinet to prevent flexing. I also added a solid wooden brace underneath the top panel for additional support. After all this I tested the cabinet's strength by sitting and standing on top and it took my weight (220 lbs) without any issues.


Yeah the cabinet seems pretty sturdy. I've seen people reinforce it but I've also seen a lot of people that didn't bother. I bought the tv glass ikea sells to sit on top so at least any water that spills won't warp the top. I wonder if it's necessary to somehow waterproof the inside of it as well.

Where did you get the grommets you used to line the inside of the holes you drilled for the filter tubing? I can't decide if I should drill two holes or try to make it one large opening to have them pass through.


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## zenster (Jan 27, 2017)

auditinprogress said:


> Yeah the cabinet seems pretty sturdy. I've seen people reinforce it but I've also seen a lot of people that didn't bother. I bought the tv glass ikea sells to sit on top so at least any water that spills won't warp the top. I wonder if it's necessary to somehow waterproof the inside of it as well.
> 
> Where did you get the grommets you used to line the inside of the holes you drilled for the filter tubing? I can't decide if I should drill two holes or try to make it one large opening to have them pass through.


The grommets were purchased from Lowes up here in Canada. The brand is Hillman and they are 2" in diameter. The 1" grommet in the upper right corner (which took forever to source) was bought from a tool shop called Lee Valley in Toronto. If you plan to get grommets get the CE Tech ones from Home Depot because they are 1/4" deeper and will clear through the panel when you install them. The ones from Lowes fall about 1/8" short of going all the way through. Unfortunately the CE Tech ones are not available in Canada for those Canadians who are interested. I discovered them across the border at Home Depot in Niagara Falls, NY. Bought a bunch for my next project.

I went with 2 holes because I have a Forstner bit and a drill press that makes nice clean holes. Could have made one large hole instead but that would mean using my Dremel or Rotozip circle cutting tool which would increase the risk of messing up. Didn't want to take any chances in getting an ugly hole, haha.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

zenster said:


> The grommets were purchased from Lowes up here in Canada. The brand is Hillman and they are 2" in diameter. The 1" grommet in the upper right corner (which took forever to source) was bought from a tool shop called Lee Valley in Toronto. If you plan to get grommets get the CE Tech ones from Home Depot because they are 1/4" deeper and will clear through the panel when you install them. The ones from Lowes fall about 1/8" short of going all the way through. Unfortunately the CE Tech ones are not available in Canada for those Canadians who are interested. I discovered them across the border at Home Depot in Niagara Falls, NY. Bought a bunch for my next project.
> 
> I went with 2 holes because I have a Forstner bit and a drill press that makes nice clean holes. Could have made one large hole instead but that would mean using my Dremel or Rotozip circle cutting tool which would increase the risk of messing up. Didn't want to take any chances in getting an ugly hole, haha.


Ah thanks. I found those on the Home Depot website. Do you think the smaller 1 1/2 inch grommets would be wide enough to pass the tubing through without crimping it? I got the 13mm lily pipes since they look better on my tank but my filter has the 16mm tubing so I'm going to have to use reducers to 12mm tubing (1/2 inch) Then I could just get a spade bit and cut the holes with my hand drill. I don't have a drill press (and it seems like forstner bits work better with those) Any issues with the MDF/particleboard or whatever splintering/cracking on the cuts?

Also I just noticed you have some sort of barrier on the bottom for waterproofing. What did you use for that and do you recommend it? Thank you for all the advice!


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## zenster (Jan 27, 2017)

auditinprogress said:


> Ah thanks. I found those on the Home Depot website. Do you think the smaller 1 1/2 inch grommets would be wide enough to pass the tubing through without crimping it? I got the 13mm lily pipes since they look better on my tank but my filter has the 16mm tubing so I'm going to have to use reducers to 12mm tubing (1/2 inch) Then I could just get a spade bit and cut the holes with my hand drill. I don't have a drill press (and it seems like forstner bits work better with those) Any issues with the MDF/particleboard or whatever splintering/cracking on the cuts?
> 
> Also I just noticed you have some sort of barrier on the bottom for waterproofing. What did you use for that and do you recommend it? Thank you for all the advice!


1 1/2 inch will work but the tubing will need to loop further away from the grommet to avoid crimping. You have more flexibility with a 2" or wider grommet. You can always use Eheim 90 degree elbow connectors if you have a problem with crimping. If you want to avoid splintering make sure your spade is sharp and hold the drill steady. Always drill a small pilot hole to act as a guide for the spade so that it doesn't go all over the place.

The barrier at the bottom is just a kitchen cabinet liner I bought from IKEA. I use it to cushion the equipment so that they don't slide around. If you want to water proof the cabinet then I'd suggest caulking the inside perimeter on all 3 sides.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

zenster said:


> 1 1/2 inch will work but the tubing will need to loop further away from the grommet to avoid crimping. You have more flexibility with a 2" or wider grommet. You can always use Eheim 90 degree elbow connectors if you have a problem with crimping. If you want to avoid splintering make sure your spade is sharp and hold the drill steady. Always drill a small pilot hole to act as a guide for the spade so that it doesn't go all over the place.
> 
> The barrier at the bottom is just a kitchen cabinet liner I bought from IKEA. I use it to cushion the equipment so that they don't slide around. If you want to water proof the cabinet then I'd suggest caulking the inside perimeter on all 3 sides.


Yeah only thing I don't like about the eheim connectors is they are green and I have clear tubing I want to use outside of the tank. I probably should just do the 2" holes since yours don't look that big.

Where did you get the clips you are using to hold the hose/inline heater to the interior of the cabinet? I've been trying to search home depot's website but I keep finding just hose clamps which are just used to bind hoses together.


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## zenster (Jan 27, 2017)

auditinprogress said:


> Yeah only thing I don't like about the eheim connectors is they are green and I have clear tubing I want to use outside of the tank. I probably should just do the 2" holes since yours don't look that big.
> 
> Where did you get the clips you are using to hold the hose/inline heater to the interior of the cabinet? I've been trying to search home depot's website but I keep finding just hose clamps which are just used to bind hoses together.


Yeah, the grommet holes aren't really that big plus they give you ample room to avoid crimping (see new photos).

I got the clips from Lowes. They are just regular 1/2 inch nylon cable clamps that you can find in the electrical section of any home hardware store. I had to cut part of the clamps (see photo) to make hose hangers out of them.


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

Yeah I heard the Espeis are good jumpers. Maybe other nano schoolers like Boraras might be better? Microdevario kubotai? Ember tetras if you like em. Although you may be able to keep the Espeis but you'll have to drop your water level a a few inches below the top. My Pseudomugils are a bit jumpy, but they stopped once I dropped the water level. Also, if you can fit more fish in (and by my estimates you can), I would get some more Otos maybe get to a total of 8? They do better in bigger groups.
My advice for the dry start is to make sure you don't make everything too wet, the water should never be above the substrate line, or else trouble will brew (in the form of fungus and BGA). Also give the tank an air out every day or few days for a few minutes.
Also you can put a yoga mat under the tank before you put it down on the stand. Can't remember the exact physics of why it is good, but it is supposed to help!
Otherwise everything seems good. Good luck!


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Less talking! More pictures!:grin2:


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

Opare said:


> Yeah I heard the Espeis are good jumpers. Maybe other nano schoolers like Boraras might be better? Microdevario kubotai? Ember tetras if you like em. Although you may be able to keep the Espeis but you'll have to drop your water level a a few inches below the top. My Pseudomugil are a bit jumpy, but they stopped once I dropped the water level. Also, if you can fit more fish in (and by my estimates you can), I would get some more Otos maybe get to a total of 8? They do better in bigger groups.
> My advice for the dry start is to make sure you don't make everything too wet, the water should never be above the substrate line, or else trouble will brew (in the form of fungus and BGA). Also give the tank an air out every day or few days for a few minutes.
> Also you can put a yoga mat under the tank before you put it down on the stand. Can't remember the exact physics of why it is good, but it is supposed to help!
> Otherwise everything seems good. Good luck!


Yeah I like the thought of chili rasboras but they don't really school they just sorta hang out in a big clump. They're also so tiny. The neon green rasboras look cool but I feel like their coloration will be too similar to the plants (and I would assume they probably jump too?) Ember tetras would work but then if I'm going to put those in I'd rather just put the Espeis in there as they're slightly more interesting.

I know otos like to be in big groups I'm just worried about having too many of them cause of starvation.

Bump:


Sean W. said:


> Less talking! More pictures!:grin2:


Haha sorry. I've been taking daily pics with my DSLR to show any progress but not much has changed. I'm also worried since the depth of field is gonna make it so you can't really see the back of the tank (it's all blurry) 

This weekend I will probably drill the stand so once that's done I can move the tank to it's final spot on the stand and can figure out my camera angle better. 

Is there going to be any issue moving the tank with everything in it? There's probably 50lbs of rock and substrate in there. Obviously no water though.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Its possible to move it.... Wont be fun tho. I wouldnt do it alone.


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

Yeah Boraras species more loosely shoal, they don't really school. I would just go with the Espeis TBH, they will work well. Yea I understand with the Otos you run the risk of making them hungry, you could supplement the food with algae wafers or blanched vegetables if you want. The shrimp would like that food too. Maybe 8 Otos is too much, 6 would be a good number.


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## zenster (Jan 27, 2017)

OP, how is the clarity of the glass and silicone job of your tank? Is it crystal clear or do you see any tinge of green? Seriously thinking of making this 60U my next tank if comparable to ADA quality. Also how is the Twinstar light compared to ADA's Aquasky?


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

zenster said:


> OP, how is the clarity of the glass and silicone job of your tank? Is it crystal clear or do you see any tinge of green? Seriously thinking of making this 60U my next tank if comparable to ADA quality. Also how is the Twinstar light compared to ADA's Aquasky?


This is my first rimless tank so I can't compare it to ADAs but I can say the silicone is almost invisible. These tanks have mitered edges which I heard allows them to use less silicone. I've never used an Aquasky either so I can't do a direct comparison. My original plan was to get a 601 but it went out of stock just as I was setting everything up so I went with the Twinstar instead. I think the Aquaskys look slightly better since the housing on top is clear as well. The Twinstar doesn't have the removable LED housing like the ADA ones do so it's all metal on top. However, the Twinstar was $100 cheaper and has RGB LEDs which supposedly look more natural. 


I drilled my stand this weekend. Some pictures:











I spent a while trying to figure out if the hole saws I had would be tough enough to cut through IKEA furniture. Turns out it's mostly hollow cardboard lol. I'm having some second thoughts about placing a 200lb tank on top of this thing.











Dry start is progressing slowly. HC and utricularia doesn't look like it's grown much but I see some new growth on the echinodorus.





















Man I hope I don't break these. So expensive.


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## zenster (Jan 27, 2017)

Hopefully the Twinstar is strong enough to reach the plants along the outer edges of your tank considering its 2 inches deeper than the ADA 60P. I've noticed the HC along the front edge in my tank is growing slower than the rest due to the light source being concentrated towards the middle. The leaves are also bigger due to the lack of light. Might have to consider getting the dual light Aquasky 602 instead.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

zenster said:


> Hopefully the Twinstar is strong enough to reach the plants along the outer edges of your tank considering its 2 inches deeper than the ADA 60P. I've noticed the HC along the front edge in my tank is growing slower than the rest due to the light source being concentrated towards the middle. The leaves are also bigger due to the lack of light. Might have to consider getting the dual light Aquasky 602 instead.


I saw a test sheet where they tested the Twinstar 600e on a 60U (filled with water only) and it read over 100 PAR in all parts of the tank. From what I've read (though I haven't looked into it in great detail) no plants need over 100 PAR.


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## Ben Belton (Dec 12, 2008)

auditinprogress said:


> Man I hope I don't break these. So expensive.


I have those on my tank. They are a little sturdier than I expected, but I go out of my way not to test their durability.


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## JTDillon (Mar 11, 2017)

OP, how is that light? pictures??


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

Tank is flooded finally. Had some issues with getting the filter to prime and also issues with my regulator but they've all been worked out. Ammonia and Nitrites are just about 0 but my Nitrates are really high. They were about 125 after I flooded it. I did a 60% water change today and they're down to 80. I checked my tap water though and it's like 20 - 40 though which is crazy and annoying. I added some seachem purigen to the filter tonight to see if that helps at all.

Having some issues with mold or something killing my utricularia graminifolia. For the most part it's doing well and has filled in but there are clumps that died. Some of the HC came up when I flooded the tank which was annoying but it's stopped doing that. But it's brown on some of the edges. And the echinodorus tenellus started off great but then died to mold in a lot of places. However, once I flooded the tank it took off (like in 2 days) and now the parts of it that survived are shooting out runners like crazy. 

The Twinstar light looks great. I also bought a Twinstar Nano+ cause what the [censored][censored][censored][censored] I want every advantage. No clue if it's worth it yet but it is somewhat calming when you see it silently turn on and all those bubbles appear.

Here are some pictures:


























And the setup below:


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

Don't worry about nitrates your plants will need them. One thing though, are you sure your NO3 test is working properly as well? Maybe test it against some RO water just to be sure you are getting correct readings.
The Twinstar Nano+ actually has some science behind it so its not all snake oil. Curious to see what your results are with it. Although good maintenance (removing dying plant matter, water changes) is the most important thing to reduce algae.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

Nice hardscape. I am considering a twinstar to on my future tank. Do you think you have enough space to trim comfortable?


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

Opare said:


> Don't worry about nitrates your plants will need them. One thing though, are you sure your NO3 test is working properly as well? Maybe test it against some RO water just to be sure you are getting correct readings.
> The Twinstar Nano+ actually has some science behind it so its not all snake oil. Curious to see what your results are with it. Although good maintenance (removing dying plant matter, water changes) is the most important thing to reduce algae.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's the API test kit and has always worked fine. Someone made a post on reddit about how many nitrates were in their water in the same area and we had a lot of rain this winter so I dunno if that has something to do with it. I 'm gonna do another 60% water change tonight.

Of course the place I was gonna order my fish from is sold out now so I gotta find a place that has trigonostigma espei in stock.


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

auditinprogress said:


> It's the API test kit and has always worked fine. Someone made a post on reddit about how many nitrates were in their water in the same area and we had a lot of rain this winter so I dunno if that has something to do with it. I 'm gonna do another 60% water change tonight.
> 
> 
> 
> Of course the place I was gonna order my fish from is sold out now so I gotta find a place that has trigonostigma espei in stock.


Sometimes people report on here their API test kits are a bit out of wack, but if other people in your area are reporting the same levels of nitrates then it is probably working fine.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

Welp, I came home from work last night to find water all over the floor. It appears my filter is leaking from the top somewhere. I checked all the tube connections and they are all secure and no water is coming out of them. When I tipped the filter ever so slightly a bunch of water came out of where the plug goes into the top. It was probably a gallon or two of water that leaked over the whole day so it's a slow leak. Also when I emptied the filter and refilled it without it plugged in and tipped it no water came out so it must have something to do with when the pump is actually on.

The model is 2273, anyone have any experience with these leaking? I searched and found videos of people complaining about the Pro 3 models leaking from the prime button but that seems like it occurred after months of use after grime built up on the gasket or whatever. Mine has only been running since Saturday!


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## Lil' Swimz$ (Jul 24, 2010)

the dry start looked like it did the job, and the plants are adjusting well. looking forward to seeing the progress


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

Not had this filter before, but first thing I would do is reassemble it and make sure everything is in as tight as possible. Contacting Eheim may give you more accurate answers, although IDK how quick their responses are.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

I did email them and they just asked for my serial number. Haven't heard from them since.

I found a lot of people complaining about this same thing but they were with the Pro 3 models which the 4 supposedly fixed? But the symptoms sound exactly the same. 

Meanwhile I have my filter disconnected and hopefully not killing off all my bacteria (I left the water in there) I have an eheim skimmer in the tank to keep some flow going but my co2 indicator is all blue now. 

Plants do seem pretty happy for the time being though.


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

I can't remember where it was I read that it may be better to keep your filter without water because the bacteria will soon use up all the oxygen in the water and then suffocate and die. I think it was Jurijs who mentioned it on a podcast saying he keeps wet inside the filter when he's transporting it somewhere but not full. He mentioned he learnt that from companies who move filters for stuff like trade shows etc.
Not sure how legit that is though! The science makes sense to me. May just be something to think about. I would just check your cycle before adding any livestock. (Add ammonia once everything's up and running then check parameters after a few days)
The skimmer may be good in the long term as well, as after a while you may get surface scum.


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## Reeferjohn (Aug 14, 2010)

Opare said:


> I can't remember where it was I read that it may be better to keep your filter without water because the bacteria will soon use up all the oxygen in the water and then suffocate and die. I think it was Jurijs who mentioned it on a podcast saying he keeps wet inside the filter when he's transporting it somewhere but not full. He mentioned he learnt that from companies who move filters for stuff like trade shows etc.
> Not sure how legit that is though! The science makes sense to me. May just be something to think about. I would just check your cycle before adding any livestock. (Add ammonia once everything's up and running then check parameters after a few days)
> The skimmer may be good in the long term as well, as after a while you may get surface scum.
> 
> ...


I would really doubt that bacteria could use up all the dissolved oxygen inside the filter in such a short period of time. Then again I could be completely wrong.


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## hardcastle.scott (Jan 11, 2017)

Awesome setup- looks great, I'd love to see some progress pics, as I've just setup a smaller informal Iwagumi tank with HC Cuba.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

Once I get the filter issue squared away I'll take some more pics.

Something else I've noticed which may be related to it leaking is about once a day I'll find stuff floating at the top of my water which appears to be the lubricant that I guess they use on the seals/gaskets? I noticed when I bought it when I took ejected the plastic piece you attach the hoses to that there was a lot of excess lubricant down in the holes which seemed odd. I'm not sure if that is the lubricant/grease I'm finding floating at the top of my water or not.


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## Willcooper (May 31, 2015)

If your API nitrate test kit is accurate then you need to contact your water company immediately. The law requires nitrates to be below 10ppm. I would bet it's your test kit. 


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## Tnalp (Mar 25, 2017)

Awesome tank. Makes me want to plant my 45p already! Glad you're liking that twin star, as I just ordered one. 


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

Oily films on the surface of the water is pretty normal in planted tanks, that's what the surface skimmer usually helps get rid of.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

Opare said:


> Oily films on the surface of the water is pretty normal in planted tanks, that's what the surface skimmer usually helps get rid of.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


This isn't like a bacteria oily film it's literally blobs of grease that they used to lube the inside of the filter floating on the surface.


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## auditinprogress (Jan 13, 2017)

An update if anyone cares.

So Eheim didn't know what to tell me about my filter and wanted me to ship it back to them. But I'd have to pay the shipping. So I figured maybe I'd go buy a new one at Petsmart and then return my broken one back to them a few days later. But I got bored so I took the entire head of the filter apart, cleaned off the o-ring or gasket or whatever in the prime pump part, re-lubed everything and put it all back together (they don't make it easy since the screws are tiny little torx screws, but I have a lot of pocket knives that use those so I already had a screwdriver for it) Anyhow after I did that, no more leak. I replied back to Eheim telling them and they told me almost none of their customers ever try to take the top apart (of course not cause nobody has those torx screwdrivers) So now my filter works fine.

I put 7 amano shrimp in the tank for a week and a half and everything went great so I went out and bought about 25 lambchop rasboras (espeis) and I also got 5 zebra otos from a LFS that got them since I called and asked about them. I made an impulse purchase of 2 SAEs as well which I'm glad I did since those guys have so much personality and they follow each other around the tank. So everything was fine the entire first day I put the fish in the tank but I left my skimmer running overnight and in the morning 9 of the espeis had gotten sucked into the skimmer and died. I thought they would be fine since the amanos always got sucked into it and once it turned off they would just swim out but I guess the suction was too much for the fish. I have since cut a net up and tied that on top but it kinda wrecks how the skimmer floats so I basically only put the skimmer in for 10 minutes or so sometimes to clean up the surface every couple days. I also one night apparently didn't have enough oxygen in the tank and 3 of the otos ended up dying. That's my guess, who knows though since I know otos are pretty hard to keep alive. All the fish looked like they were gasping, though an hour before they looked fine (and the co2 had been off for hours at that point) The other two are doing fine though and now I always move my lily pipe up at night to make sure the tank gets lots of oxygen and no fatalities since. I went and bought some more espeis to replace the ones that died and I've only had one casualty since then when one somehow jumped out of the tank while I was at work. Somehow one of the amanos made it out of the tank as I found it dried up on the ground who knows how many days later. I have since made a DIY lid out of some metal mesh I had in the garage and some wood but it's pretty crappy looking so it's just temporary until I can maybe get a piece of glass cut for the top. I know ADA makes one for their 60P but this tank is 6cm wider than a 60P so that wouldn't fit. 

Thursday I have a bunch of Blue Dream Neos being delivered and then that should be it for livestock. I wanted to get Blue Bolts but my TDS is about 240 which seems high for them and my KH and GH are all way higher than is recommended so I didn't want to kill a bunch of expensive shrimp especially since I already had about $30 worth of zebra otos die. 

So yeah, here are some pics. I had a really bad case of hair algae for about a week but I think I've dialed in my co2 and my ferts and lighting all just right. I spent a week pulling it out which was a pain but it's all disappeared now. I have the Twinstar 600E on for 9 hours a day, co2 is on 1.5 hours before the lights go on and goes off 1.5 hours before as well. My inline diffuser says it needs 36 PSI to work so I have my regulator set to that with one bubble every 1.5 seconds. I am dosing dry KNO3 and KH2PO4 and then for micros I put in some Flourish. I have Equilibrium but my KH is 3 and my GH is 7 which seems plenty high enough? So I haven't added any of that. Every now and then I remember to put some Excel in but that's not really constant. It was mostly when I was dealing with the hair algae. I've done 50% water changes about every 2 weeks. Ammonia/Nitrites are at 0, Nitrates are like 40 - 80. When I first put the shrimp in I did like 75% water changes every other day and it would not go any lower so I dunno what the deal is. I'm just using tap water. 


From like a month ago:









About 2 weeks ago:









To tonight:










Close up of the zebra otos which are the coolest. RIP one of these guys.










As you can see the plants look great and have really filled in. I'll probably have to trim the HC soon. I've been pulling out runners from the tenellus when it invades the HC, though it's harder to remove from the utricularia graminifolia since trying to pull it up sometimes dislodges the ug So I just usually trim the leaves of the parts that have intermingled. 

I'll take some more pics on Thursday after the blue dream neos arrive, er if they do. I ordered them two weeks ago but the guy forgot to ship them last week. Supposedly they go out tomorrow. All these pics have been with my crappy camera in my phone but once the shrimp arrive I'll bust out my DSLR and my macro lens.


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## Opare (Sep 9, 2015)

Your KH and GH is sufficiently high. Growth looks good, goob job! Espeis are a lovely fish.


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## awesometim1 (Oct 31, 2013)

Nice tank!!! I'm attempting a similar tank as yours. Iwagumi(?!) and pressurized co2 20g Lol. Your tank looks much better imo. Nice job'


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## eferna (Oct 31, 2016)

love those otos. I have 3 of them in my tank and will be getting some more soon. THey love to move all over the tank.


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## ange062 (May 9, 2011)

Cool tank!! Very similar setup to mine. Subbed for updates!


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## Dragonxflare (Jul 1, 2014)

Very nice tank! Hows everything look now?


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