# Timer/dimmer device for Twinstar 450EA?



## DimitriSF (Oct 28, 2017)

Something like this should work, I would imagine:
https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads...r-add-sunrise-sunset-to-your-led-light.53052/


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## doylecolmdoyle (Sep 22, 2015)

You can also look into a device called a TC420 and the PLED program, it can control LED lights. I use it to ramp up and down my LED lights on my 5ft tank.


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## Kaiede (Sep 11, 2017)

In addition to the TC-420, this also works (voyetra8 uses one): https://www.amazon.com/LEDENET-Smart-Controller-Channels-Control/dp/B01DY56N8U

Current USA’s timers work with a 2.1mm ID x 5.5mm OD to 2.5mm ID x 5.5mm OD adapter, although mine hums when connected to a 600E. You probably need the adapter as well for the timer mentioned in the second post.

With a little bit of extra work, the Bluefish Mini or StormX/HurricaneX work. They need a MOSFET trigger switch like this one: https://www.amazon.com/CHENBO-Trigger-Driving-Regulator-Control/dp/B06XJ2ZZ35

The 450E doesn’t draw a ton of current, so these options should all do fairly well.

The trigger switch can be found cheaper on eBay if you are willing to wait for a shipment from China.

I will add that I use a DIY timer put together with a Raspberry PI Zero on my 600E, and a 900E I grabbed for my next tank upgrade. Wiring it up is no worse than the Bluefish Mini or StormX, but it does require installing and configuring Linux, then running a script to build the light controller, and authoring a configuration file with your schedule. So I can’t really recommend it if you are looking for plug-and-play, but it is technically an option.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Awhile back while doing a cursory look in these models (don't ever remeber which) and dim potential there was a "hint" that the power supplies were actually constant current drivers..

IF they list a voltage range on the power brick out it would be fairly conclusive..

No doubt downstream PWM MOSFET dimmers work but the "issue" is IF they are constant current drivers they will usually go "high-set" w/ the other dimmer..
This is a potential, though theoretical problem depending on the speed of the first driver switching..

Consequently the LED's can see more voltage, ever so briefly, than they care to..
At least as I understand it..

IF they are then a driver power supply swap is the better approach though..

A report on the DC out of the power bricks is needed..

On the more helpful side.. sort of.
Diodes:


> Bulb Type : RGB-W LED. Last Generation Samsung & Nichia (Japan) LEDs


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## Kaiede (Sep 11, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Awhile back while doing a cursory look in these models (don't ever remeber which) and dim potential there was a "hint" that the power supplies were actually constant current drivers..
> 
> IF they list a voltage range on the power brick out it would be fairly conclusive..



These appear to be bog standard AC/DC power bricks made for the Chinese market. Both the supplies I have are from the same manufacturer:










The LEDs themselves are in a pretty classic setup of 3 LEDs in series with a resistor that seems correct for constant voltage (24Ohms). It looks to be using something like the 2835 SMD LED for white, blue and green, while a different LED for red that is done 5 in series (lower voltage). Not feasible to control each color separately, as they share the same ground and positive voltage planes and you’d have to break traces.










I’d be surprised if they would bake the driver into the power supply, throwing away economies of scale for this sort of power brick . At least when trying to make something meant to undercut ADA on pricing.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Thanks, as I said didn't remember the model/series ect just a blurp over at the UK fish site re: "some" driver w/ "some" ADA like light MAY be ada's.
Black boxes @ $70 use constant current high dc voltage drivers..
Of course doing 26-ish chips vs 100's does change things..

A bit scattered I really don't pay much attention to models sometimes.. LOl..

Not too surprised they strung them all together (colors)


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## Curb Your Aquarium (Aug 1, 2018)

I've added a photo of my 450EA power supply to my first post.

Hopefully that helps!


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## Kaiede (Sep 11, 2017)

My advice still stands, knowing that the power supply is pretty much the same. The boards where the LEDs are mounted in the EA and ES should be nearly identical as well. 

You’ve got a good number of options, depending on how fancy you want it, and how much DIY you can tolerate.


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## Curb Your Aquarium (Aug 1, 2018)

Kaiede said:


> My advice still stands, knowing that the power supply is pretty much the same. The boards where the LEDs are mounted in the EA and ES should be nearly identical as well.
> 
> You’ve got a good number of options, depending on how fancy you want it, and how much DIY you can tolerate.


DIY is fine by me! I just want it to work exactly the way I want it to. Doesn't matter if that makes it more complicated.

I want it fancy enough that I can tell it "gradually increase brightness from 0% - 100% from 8:00-8:30am". Then I'll want it to do the reverse in the evening from 6:00-6:30pm. That's pretty much it!

It would be nice to be able to tinker with how long the "sunrise" and "sunset" duration is and of course the actual schedule - so I can tweak the number of "daylight" hours.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

You'd only use one channel
TC-420(421)








Sort of crude but effective.

Catch is the 4A "limit" though 1)need actual power draw of the light since ps ratings are a ballpark
and 2)Some have exceeded it w/ no issues AFAICT

you can do the 5V hack and just get a bigger logic level MOSFET

https://www.amazon.com/Transistor-D...ocphy=1028224&hvtargid=pla-457034532719&psc=1


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## Curb Your Aquarium (Aug 1, 2018)

Can I assume that, as the power supply says it's rated for a DC output of 12 V at 3 A (36 W of total power output), then the lights would never use more than 36 W of power?

Which means that any dimming system that says it's okay for "up to 100 W of power" should be fine?


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## ranitomeya (Jun 6, 2018)

I just ordered a newly-released timer from Chihiros that's controllable via bluetooth and smartphone app. Here it is. There's a video demonstration on that site. It hasn't arrived yet but I'm hoping it does exactly what you're asking for in a timer. Also you don't have to mess with programming it on a computer or hooking up the correct channels etc. It seems plug and play. The Commander4 model isn't available yet and it will only work with a 4channel WRGB light that I also want to purchase. Custom color spectrum from a smartphone app sounds awesome. If you can change the color spectrum based on time of day I'd buy it instantly. If twinstar puts out a light like that at a reasonable price I may forgo the chihiros when it drops.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Blink and there is something new...
1 channel model and a 4 channel model
split photoperiod capable..

Pretty nifty.. 

Thanks..

There are really about 2 others floating around but that one is rising to the top if it becomes eaily purchased from other than Alibaba..
site drives me crazy..


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## Curb Your Aquarium (Aug 1, 2018)

doylecolmdoyle said:


> You can also look into a device called a TC420 and the PLED program, it can control LED lights. I use it to ramp up and down my LED lights on my 5ft tank.


The TC-420 looks awesome.

I was about to go for the TC-421 (upgraded WiFi model) but went for a Hinterfeld S2-Pro in the end. It's really all I need for a one-channel setup and I've seen reviews from other Twinstar users who have had great experiences.

Looking forward to simulating a sunrise/sunset experience for my fish!


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## Kaiede (Sep 11, 2017)

Curb Your Aquarium said:


> Can I assume that, as the power supply says it's rated for a DC output of 12 V at 3 A (36 W of total power output), then the lights would never use more than 36 W of power?
> 
> Which means that any dimming system that says it's okay for "up to 100 W of power" should be fine?


In general, that's correct. Power supplies are sized a bit higher than the intended load for a few different reasons. But they are also usually sized about as low as they can get away with as well. Handling higher peak and RMS loads means more cost. 

But the real rule is that current is generally what is limited. So you will see things like 60W @ 24V, 30W @ 12V (Current USA's Ramp Timer Pro per-channel rating, which is 2.5A). Or the TC-420 talking about 4A limits. But so long as the power supply is within the rating of the dimming controller, you should be fine. It's all usually a balancing act between having some buffer so that spikes or other issues don't cause immediate failures or fire hazards, and keeping costs reasonable. 

Of course, none of the above really applies to counterfeit/shady electronics where corners are being cut. Ratings mean jack squat there.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Example of the safe operating area of a MOSFET:


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## Curb Your Aquarium (Aug 1, 2018)

Does anyone know what size the power connector is for the Twinstar 450EA?

The S2-Pro uses a DC5.5 plug. Not sure if I'll need an adapter.


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## Kaiede (Sep 11, 2017)

Curb Your Aquarium said:


> Does anyone know what size the power connector is for the Twinstar 450EA?
> 
> 
> 
> The S2-Pro uses a DC5.5 plug. Not sure if I'll need an adapter.




Unfortunately, there are two measurements: inner diameter (ID) and outer diameter (OD). The 5.5 is the OD in mm. 

The Twinstars are 2.5x5.5mm. 2.1x5.5mm is incredibly common, and usually what you find on most basic US power bricks. Without knowing the ID of the controller, I can’t say if it is compatible.


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## Curb Your Aquarium (Aug 1, 2018)

I've emailed Twinstar support.

Will post an update once I hear back for anyone else who might want to know.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Curb Your Aquarium said:


> I've emailed Twinstar support.
> 
> Will post an update once I hear back for anyone else who might want to know.


Plenty of other options.. 



https://www.adafruit.com/product/2897


It's only "parts"....


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## Kaiede (Sep 11, 2017)

Curb Your Aquarium said:


> I've emailed Twinstar support.
> 
> 
> 
> Will post an update once I hear back for anyone else who might want to know.



I did just say what the Twinstars are, though.

It’s the dimmer/timer that doesn’t say what *it* is using for ID which is the important missing detail.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


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