# HOB Filters vs. Canister



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

HOB - Hang On Back (of the tank)

HOB disadvantages:

surface agitation
needs clearance in BOT (back of tank :hihi: )
more difficult to integrate into hood
usually less filter capacity than canister

Canister disadvantages:

expensive
cleaning is a little more involved

That's what I can think of right now... you decide! :icon_bigg


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

Another great benefit with the can's over an HOB is the ability to direct the output of your filter for good water movement by the plant bases. Good water circulation is more important to a planted tank then it is over a conventional fish only aquarium. 
If you go with an HOB then I would consider a powerhead down low as an assist in water flow. 
If cost is the only issue with canisters/HOB then you may want to look into a Rena Filstar XP2 for a 29 gallon. Its probably the best Canister on the market for the dollar. Click on this link... BigAlsOnline and look up the XP line of canisters, I think you will find it is the cheapest way to go without sacrificing quality. roud:


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## GTApuffgal (Feb 7, 2005)

If you can afford to go with a canister - do it! I have an Aqua-clear. It is more than adequate and I have happy plants and fish. But I am saving my pennies for a canister (among other things...). Why? Main reason - the current from the outflow of my AC dictates the layout of my aquascape! I can't plant anything tall below it, or really even close enough to hide the intake without leaves getting stuck to it. Plus, between the heater, CO2, the sometimes UV - lots of [email protected] in my tank taking up space! No, the AC isn't IN the tank, but the intake and flow limit planting in that area.

I'm sure there are much better reasons for a canister (like current around base of plants!), but that's my 2 cents!


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## bc_hawaii (May 2, 2005)

Thanks for the replies....

Because you've mentioned water flow advantages, I was wondering how people place their canister filters input and outputs... Where do you position them, and doesn't the input/output have the same negative affects as a HOB?
i.e. - sucking up debris and pushing plants around


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## bc_hawaii (May 2, 2005)

Anyone? In regards to the last post...


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## Clone (Feb 29, 2004)

The filter intake is going to suck up debris, thats its job. An advantage of the canister filter is the versatility of the spray bar. It can be mounted vertical or horizontal at any depth. I have mine mounted horizontally 3" below the water level directed to the water surface so there is some surface movement. 

The canister filter is also DIY friendly in that you can customize the intake and spray bar. My next aquarium project is to make a spray bar that will run the length of my tank. 

Another advantage is the ability to place equipment inline (CO2 reactor, Heater, UV.) Keep plants and fish in the tank not equipment.


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## Dood Lee (Jan 14, 2005)

Keep in mind, BigAls does not ship to Hawaii. You might want to check out http://www.petsolutions.com/ or http://www.drsfostersmith.com/.


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## bc_hawaii (May 2, 2005)

Clone said:


> The filter intake is going to suck up debris, thats its job. An advantage of the canister filter is the versatility of the spray bar. It can be mounted vertical or horizontal at any depth. I have mine mounted horizontally 3" below the water level directed to the water surface so there is some surface movement.


Thanks for the reply. So where exactly do you place the intake? Top/bottom, hidden in plants?

Also, by having the spray bar spray upwards, doesn't it push the background stemmed forward? Not letting them stay completely vertical? Just wondering...


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## bc_hawaii (May 2, 2005)

Dood Lee said:


> Keep in mind, BigAls does not ship to Hawaii. You might want to check out http://www.petsolutions.com/ or http://www.drsfostersmith.com/.


Thanks, I'll check those out. I might just by from Ebay if I can find a good price. Being a Hawaii resident, where do you get your substrate?


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

In my 75 gallon I run two XP2's... 
Both intakes are at midlevel of the tank and one output is in the bottom of the tank and the other is a spray bar at the top pointing at a 45 degree angle to the bottom. This gives me pretty good circulation. 
I keep the intakes at midlevel so they dont suck up a lot of mulm and debris, thats what I use the python for during a w/c. 

A lot depends on your particular setup...plant density plays a big part in this decision.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Buck said:


> A lot depends on your particular setup...plant density plays a big part in this decision.


So true... First I was looking for ways to slow down the current caused by one XP3, now I took off the spraybars from my 2 XP3's to get a decent flow through all these plants


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## malkore (Nov 3, 2003)

My only comment is that a Filstar XP1 should be god's plenty for a 29gallon. Unlike Buck, I only run one Filstar XP2 on my 75gallon, and it works great. I kinda wish I had an XP3 instead, just for added media space, but I really have no problems with filtration.


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## joan (Apr 25, 2005)

Buck said:


> In my 75 gallon I run two XP2's...
> Both intakes are at midlevel of the tank and one output is in the bottom of the tank and the other is a spray bar at the top pointing at a 45 degree angle to the bottom. This gives me pretty good circulation.
> I keep the intakes at midlevel so they dont suck up a lot of mulm and debris, thats what I use the python for during a w/c.
> 
> A lot depends on your particular setup...plant density plays a big part in this decision.


Do you use the two seperate filters mainly to have the two different outputs for improved circulation, or for added safety should one fail? Just curious about these things as I plan for my "someday" when I get a large tank. When I was thinking about filters and looking at various types and what they're rated for, it occurred to me that two smaller ones might be better than one larger one. I know I've read that some people use two heaters as a safeguard in case one fails. Anyway, since I'd just been thinking about this, I was curious what your reasoning behind the two filters was.


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## Dood Lee (Jan 14, 2005)

bc_hawaii said:


> Thanks, I'll check those out. I might just by from Ebay if I can find a good price. Being a Hawaii resident, where do you get your substrate?


My planted tank is being set up here in Seattle (I'm in college right now). My tank back home is just regular tank with regular gravel.

Come to think of it, I realize now that on Oahu, there aren't really many shops that specialize in freshwater planted aquariums. I honestly don't know where you could look for specialty gravel. Best bet would be to check if a fish store will special order for you.


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## BSS (Sep 24, 2004)

Mine is similar to Buck's. I have the intake just below the half way mark in the tank. That way, I can change 50% of the water without having to turn off my filter. As to the spraybar, I have mine at the bottom of my tank pointing into the back glass of my tank. I've recently pointed it into the glass to reduce the amount of current at the top of my tank.

Canister...lots of options for water flow and, typically, reduced maint as they can go longer between cleanings. Good stuff!


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## styxx (Jul 2, 2003)

I have went one step further and decided to use bulkead with holes drilled into the tank wall, with a strainer on the inside of the aquarium and a 90degree elbow on the outside of the tank connected to from the bulkhead to the Eheim inflow and outflow tubing. This way you can hide your canister filter under or behind the tank somewhere and there is nothing hanging over the sides of the tank. I don't even use a submersible heater anymore. I use an inline heater connected to the outflow tube of my Eheim (Hydor -sp??) to heat the water flowing into the tank. The only thing in my tank is a tube for CO2 to the glass diffuser. It takes some courage when having other people drill holes into your tank, but if done properly it eliminates the need to have any wires, tubes, etc. hanging over the edge of your tank.


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## cprroy73 (Nov 10, 2004)

> The only thing in my tank is a tube for CO2 to the glass diffuser.


You ought to build yourself a diy inline co2 reactor for the outflow of the ehiem and have no tubing in the tank.


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

joan said:


> Do you use the two seperate filters mainly to have the two different outputs for improved circulation, or for added safety should one fail?


 Actually its Yes for both reasons . One of them is hooked up with the AM1000 Reactor for my CO2 and the other is just for more circulation/filteration. I even throw a small powerhead in the tank for even more water movement if the tank gets a bit on the jungle side of growth. 
I have never setup a tank over 10 gallons without having more then one filter. I prefer 2 smaller filters to cover the tanks needs over having one large one. You get better water circulation and also the chances of two filters taking a dirt nap at the same time are slim to none. roud:


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## joan (Apr 25, 2005)

Buck said:


> You get better water circulation and also the chances of two filters taking a dirt nap at the same time are slim to none. roud:


This is what I was thinking. I do believe I will follow your lead when I finally get my big tank. roud:


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## Georgiadawgger (Apr 23, 2004)

I have a similar setup as Buck...except I'm an Eheimer :tongue: I run a 2224 with my co2 reactor and my 2213 with my uv. I had both of them plumbed to the 2224, but I found the flow restricted my co2 reactor too much. 

I figure running two filters virtually eliminates the need for an extra powerhead in my tank. Oh, and they're both stuffed with coarse material and fine floss so cleaning is easy.


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

> I run a 2224 with my co2 reactor and my 2213 with my uv. I had both of them plumbed to the 2224, but I found the flow restricted my co2 reactor too much.
> 
> I figure running two filters virtually eliminates the need for an extra powerhead in my tank


Ditto that!

I run my CO2 reactor off of my 2126 (primary filter) and my UV off of a 2216 (secondary filter). The 2126 does house typical canister filter media, and the 2215 is filled with sponges and floss. 

The two filters power the equipment separately, and provide great water circulation at the same time.

Mike


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## KSum (May 18, 2005)

I too run 2 canisterr filters on my big tank. My main reason is that I keep a lot of fish in it as well. With 2 filters I stagger the media changes. That way I am not loosing as much bacterial filtration from rinsing the sponge/media, and replaceinghte chemical filtration.

Yes, it helps with cirulation, but so would spliting a single filter's output into multiple lines.

I also created a custom spray bar from a PVC pipe on one of my filters that has a few holes at different angles. Most of the holes point out into the tank, but a few point down at abour 80 degrees, and a few point up at about 30.

Karl


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## rcx_sk (Feb 2, 2004)

the only substrate options I've seen in lfs are either regular gravel or flourite. I eventually went with flourite despite the price - the kahala petland and ala moana petland carries flourite, kinda expensive though, $20+ for the 20lbs bag.


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## Anthony (Jan 11, 2005)

OK, I've upgraded my co2 to pressurized and upped my wpg. The next thing I want to do is get a canister filter with future plans of putting an inline reactor, UVS, and heater. I'm looking at either an Ehiem or a Filstar. Out of those 2 brands which filter will have sufficient flow for what I need in a 37 gallon tank. Or should I save money for longer and get maybe 2 of the smaller filters.


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

Im not sure about Eheim Filter equivilance for size but If you want a FilStar, the XP2 would be good for your tank and easily power an inline reactor. For your "second" filter I would just stick with the Emp 280 that you allready have. If more flow is desired after that then you can just add a small powerhead later. :wink:


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## Anthony (Jan 11, 2005)

Thanx! :tongue:


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