# Is this normal for a CO2 regulator?



## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

Thinking back, I might have damaged the co2 regulator as I did NOT turn the adjusting knob all the way counterclockwise before I release the cylinder valve... so the valve stem or the diaphragm inside the regulator might have been damaged during this step... I did follow this instruction for the first time when I set up my co2 system but somehow forgot to follow it afterwards... This regulator has a shutoff valve so luckily I didn't damage the needle valve at least.

But anyway I feel like the regulator is leaking gas from the high pressure chamber to the low pressure chamber.

Is it even serviceable or not?


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

The increase on the high pressure side is normal with an increase in temperature.

However, the increase on the low pressure side is not normal. It sounds like one of the diaphragms inside the regulator is malfunctioning. There should be almost zero increase on the low pressure side when the output, via the solenoid, is blocked. What model Concoa is it? Specifically, the single digit after "312".

It's surprising, and unfortunate, as that's an excellent regulator. I'm just wondering if it's possible the LP gauge was replaced. That shouldn't really matter, but it means somebody fiddled with it at some point.

First, I'd remove the post-body kit, plug the output port with a 1/4" NPT plug (a couple bucks at HD or Lowes), keep the working pressure at zero, and turn on and then off the cylinder (this will charge the high pressure compartment). See if the low pressure gauge begins to rise after a few hours. Next, remove the plug, turn the working pressure all the way up and back down to zero a few times, allowing more CO2 into the high pressure compartment if necessary (while the working pressure is back down at zero) by very briefly turning on the cylinder. Hopefully this will dislodge and blow out any garbage stuck in the diaphragm. Then plug the port again and wait for a LP increase.

Report back with results, but the next step, if you still have a problem, is going to be to replace the reg, or send it off to be repaired. It's an expensive enough reg that it might be worth getting it looked at. I think Orlando at GLA used to do simple repairs (like taking apart the reg to see if there's an obvious, easy fix), but I doubt it nowadays. You could look into other places, but the shipping costs back and forth, on top of the labar and possibly parts, might be significant.

Bump:


piggy82 said:


> Thinking back, I might have damaged the co2 regulator as I did NOT turn the adjusting knob all the way counterclockwise before I release the cylinder valve... so the valve stem or the diaphragm inside the regulator might have been damaged during this step... I did follow this instruction for the first time when I set up my co2 system but somehow forgot to follow it afterwards... This regulator has a shutoff valve so luckily I didn't damage the needle valve at least.
> 
> But anyway I feel like the regulator is leaking gas from the high pressure chamber to the low pressure chamber.
> 
> Is it even serviceable or not?


On an industrial reg, that won't matter. They're designed to take some serious abuse. That procedure is designed mostly to protect the components on the post-body kit.


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## Argus (May 22, 2013)

piggy82 said:


> Hi, please forgive me if I am asking a newbie question:
> 
> However today I woke up seeing the low pressure gauge on my co2 regulator showing reading all the way to the end of the gauge: more than 100 PSI. I plugged in the power of solenoid and the pressure lowered quickly to working 30 PSI. So far I haven't seen any other sign of malfunction.


I've not seen this happen with my GLA PRO-2 regulator. The solenoid is on a timer. When it is off, the pressure remains at the 40 psi setting same as when it is on. Nor have I seen it in any oxygen regulator used with a torch. Turn off the valve in the torch handle (same effect as closing the solenoid) and pressure remains about the same was when the torch is on.

I don't know if your 100 psi temporary reading is an idiosyncrasy of that model regulator, or a problem. I just haven't seen it in any regulator I've used over the years.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

Dear kevmo911,

Thank you so much for the detailed suggestions. I will try to search for a plug to do the test, or just using the shutoff valve (it might not be air tight enough I suspect, though. But I think I got the idea of your suggestions) to test if it is working or not. 

Speaking of the model of the valve, it is a 3122351-01-519 and I had the nipple swapped with a 320.

I could not see any sign that someone replaced the LP, it was in deed quite new with no sign of scratch or those thing you would expect from any installation when it arrived. However it was not that expensive, I paid $120+ shipping for it (would this even be normal for this chrome plated regulator? I felt winning lottery when I saw it though) so I understand that it is probably not worth of shipping it for repair, or even any repair at all... :'(

By the way, if you don't mind I hijack this thread by asking another question. I happen to see another new 312 on evilbay ending soon and if my unit failed I probably would buy that one. The only thing I am not certain is that it is a 200 PSI LP gauge. Can I remove the LP gauge of my current unit and replace it with the 200 one if I bought the new regulator? I feel like a 100 PSI LP gauge would be easier to adjust.


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## AndreyT (Apr 28, 2011)

piggy82 said:


> But anyway I feel like the regulator is leaking gas from the high pressure chamber to the low pressure chamber.


Regardless of what's leaking where, you cannot possibly have 100 psi of pressure on the working side of your system. Your working side is still open into the diffuser/reactor/tank, which means that any rise in pressure on the working side will be immediately released into the outside world. The working pressure cannot possibly rise higher than the "break through" pressure of your diffusion method.

If you see your working side gauge showing 100 psi, it means that the gauge itself is crazy/broken, not that you really have 100 psi of pressure here.

That, of course, only applies if your working side is really open. If you tied your output CO2 tube into a knot, then 100 psi on the wrking side might be possibe, I guess, but I doubt you did something like that.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

Argus said:


> I've not seen this happen with my GLA PRO-2 regulator. The solenoid is on a timer. When it is off, the pressure remains at the 40 psi setting same as when it is on. Nor have I seen it in any oxygen regulator used with a torch. Turn off the valve in the torch handle (same effect as closing the solenoid) and pressure remains about the same was when the torch is on.
> 
> I don't know if your 100 psi temporary reading is an idiosyncrasy of that model regulator, or a problem. I just haven't seen it in any regulator I've used over the years.


Thanks Argus, I did a few tests and I am pretty sure it is leaking inside the regulator, I could even see it with naked eyes that the LP gauge is moving up when turned off. I guess the reason why I didn't notice this before was because I didn't have a solenoid and the shutoff valve is not tight enough to seal the regulator chamber, so any leak would go into the tank. And the leak may not be too large so I didn't notice it.

I should have bought the solenoid at the first place so I could talk to the seller as soon as I found the issue....

Bump:


AndreyT said:


> Regardless of what's leaking where, you cannot possibly have 100 psi of pressure on the working side of your system. Your working side is still open into the diffuser/reactor/tank, which means that any rise in pressure on the working side will be immediately released into the outside world. The working pressure cannot possibly rise higher than the "break through" pressure of your diffusion method.
> 
> If you see your working side gauge showing 100 PSI, it means that the gauge itself is crazy/broken, not that you really have 100 PSI of ressure here.
> 
> That, of course, only applies if your working side is really open. If you tied your output CO2 tube into a knot, then 100 PSI on the wrking side might be possibe, I guess, but I doubt you did something like hat.


Thanks for the reply. Sorry I wasn't clear, the 100 PSI happens when I turned off the solenoid to completely seal the cylinder<-->regulator. So if the regulator is leaking I would guess it is possible to have 100 PSI inside the LP end, or I may have to say I saw 100 PSI reading only because that is how far the gauge could show, it may be higher that 100 inside the LP chamber...


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

AndreyT said:


> Regardless of what's leaking where, you cannot possibly have 100 psi of pressure on the working side of your system. Your working side is still open into the diffuser/reactor/tank, which means that any rise in pressure on the working side will be immediately released into the outside world. The working pressure cannot possibly rise higher than the "break through" pressure of your diffusion method.
> 
> If you see your working side gauge showing 100 psi, it means that the gauge itself is crazy/broken, not that you really have 100 psi of pressure here.
> 
> That, of course, only applies if your working side is really open. If you tied your output CO2 tube into a knot, then 100 psi on the wrking side might be possibe, I guess, but I doubt you did something like that.


As the OP stated, he's got a solenoid. That's the "knot" you're talking about.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

piggy82 said:


> Dear kevmo911,
> 
> Thank you so much for the detailed suggestions. I will try to search for a plug to do the test, or just using the shutoff valve (it might not be air tight enough I suspect, though. But I think I got the idea of your suggestions) to test if it is working or not.


Yes, that should work fine. And it should completely shut off flow.


> Speaking of the model of the valve, it is a 3122351-01-519 and I had the nipple swapped with a 320.


Yes, the LP gauge does match the model number. Probably hasn't been replaced. In my experience, the newer Concoas have a little white "blob" that marks where the gauge threads sit. I assume it's a marker for original settings.


> I could not see any sign that someone replaced the LP, it was in deed quite new with no sign of scratch or those thing you would expect from any installation when it arrived. However it was not that expensive, I paid $120+ shipping for it (would this even be normal for this chrome plated regulator? I felt winning lottery when I saw it though) so I understand that it is probably not worth of shipping it for repair, or even any repair at all... :'(


New, those things are a few hundred bucks. What you paid is probably in the normal range for a used 312. As for repair costs, call around. You might find a local place willing to take a look for free or cheap. You might be surprised, or maybe not. It's worth looking into, especially if you're attached to this reg.


> By the way, if you don't mind I hijack this thread by asking another question. I happen to see another new 312 on evilbay ending soon and if my unit failed I probably would buy that one. The only thing I am not certain is that it is a 200 PSI LP gauge. Can I remove the LP gauge of my current unit and replace it with the 200 one if I bought the new regulator? I feel like a 100 PSI LP gauge would be easier to adjust.


You can replace the gauge, and it will show more clearly exactly where the working pressure is. However, the output range of the reg won't change, and the precision of the movement of the handle won't change at all. So if it's 1/4 turn on the new reg with the stock gauge, it'll still be 1/4 turn with a different gauge for the same working pressure.

FYI, Concoa 312's are less common than 212's, so you can often find 212's for a bit less cash. Functionally, they're pretty much identical. Aesthetically, the 312's are slightly more streamlined and lighter, with smaller gauges, and the 212's are more bulbous behind the handle. But go with whatever you like. I just have a soft spot for the 212's


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

kevmo911 said:


> Yes, that should work fine. And it should completely shut off flow.
> Yes, the LP gauge does match the model number. Probably hasn't been replaced. In my experience, the newer Concoas have a little white "blob" that marks where the gauge threads sit. I assume it's a marker for original settings.
> New, those things are a few hundred bucks. What you paid is probably in the normal range for a used 312. As for repair costs, call around. You might find a local place willing to take a look for free or cheap. You might be surprised, or maybe not. It's worth looking into, especially if you're attached to this reg.
> You can replace the gauge, and it will show more clearly exactly where the working pressure is. However, the output range of the reg won't change, and the precision of the movement of the handle won't change at all. So if it's 1/4 turn on the new reg with the stock gauge, it'll still be 1/4 turn with a different gauge for the same working pressure.
> ...


Thank you so much for your suggestions. I will do the test now to see if it works or not simply using the shutoff valve. If it doesn't the perhaps I would hunt for a plug or just directly buy another regulator. I do not have any emotional attachment to it, though I have to say it is really a beauty I enjoyed it very much :crying:

All I wish is I should have bought the solenoid early together with the regulator so I could test it immediately. Guess now I have learned something (probably in a hard way):crying:

Thank you again.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

Okay it is sad to say it doesn't look too good. I did the followings:

1. unplug everything after the solenoid, as I figured this could be used as a "plug" because it seems to seal the system pretty well.
2. shut off the bottle valve, open everything else to let the system drain off co2.
3. shut off every valve, leave adjustment knob all the way counterclockwise then open bottle valve to charge HP gauge to 800 psi.
4. within 10 minutes, LP gauge show a positive reading around 5 psi, a little slower compared to the phenomenon I observed this morning but still something unacceptable I suspect.

I then did a few "fast blow" to see if it causes any difference, but sadly no. 

I guess I really should save me some trouble and move on...

Thank you so much for the suggestions and helps!


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

You might still be in luck! The "closing" of the second stage is stop the sudden burst of pressure that could damage the LP gauge, rarely would you completely ruin a 312' stainless steel parts. That right, your 312 has SS for all dem' important' inside.

Here some steps you can take to rule out other causes of the leak. 

1. Remove the entire postbody, solenoid included. Get yourself a 1/4 plug from Home depot and retest. Solenoids also have max pressure, so rule that out first. 
2. Same steps as before but this time, charge it to 30 psi. If it leaks, then charge it to 20 psi, repeat. 

Even if your regulator's seal is broken, you can still operate it below the threshold so find that X' psi and have that as your max. 
Example: If your regulator leaks at 50 psi but is rock solid at 35 psi, then just set it below the 35 psi (threshold). 

You have good taste in regulators, I got myself a 312, 212-










PS - Most people will agree with + - 8 psi for the leak test but honestly, it shouldn't be more then 2 - 3 difference at the most. Aim for 1 or 2 difference in 6 hours, no need for 24 hours.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

@FlyingHellFish, thank you so much for your suggestions. Unfortunately I have tried many tests including the thorough "bettatail" test, all indicating an internal leak, maybe a bad diaphragm seal, or bad poppet valve or something.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

piggy82 said:


> @*FlyingHellFish*, thank you so much for your suggestions. Unfortunately I have tried many tests including the thorough "bettatail" test, all indicating an internal leak, maybe a bad diaphragm seal, or bad poppet valve or something.


good reference:

http://victortechnologies.com/IM_Up...ervice and Testing Procedures - Single an.pdf


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

Thank you so much for the reference. It seems to indicate either a loose nozzle or maybe replacing the nozzle gasket. I may consider trying to open my regulator sometime later when I collect all the tools I need (probably at least a strap wrench to open the housing cover?) I am not sure which stage I should open now but if I am able to open one of them then I probably would be able to open another one to look into as well.

I also found another similar reference if any noob ran into similar issue and would like to do some basic service (better not to, I may want to say)

http://victortechnologies.com/IM_Up...8 AF 150 and CF 153 Flowgauge Regulators.pdf


However, I may only do it as a research and will not use this regulator anymore once I fiddle with it, as for obvious safety concern...

I will try to see if I can find a local place to repair it for cheap.

Or, may be inappropriate to ask, if anyone in the forum would like to examine it...

Thank you again.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Ops, my mistake! I skim through this thinking you were losing gas, I didn't realize your LP was increasing. Let test out your theory on the 1st to 2nd stage seal. Do the same set up and max out the handle, then close the 2nd stage by rotating the handle counter clockwise.

Now, close the main cylinder and remove the regulator so your HP gauge is zero. Do this slowly if loud sound scares you. Record the LP gauge and leave the regulator alone for an hour. 

With no gas in the first stage, let us know what the LP reads.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

I did this already, forgot to mention. What I did was:

1. shutoff the solenoid, within in *2* minutes LP gauge raised from 30 to 35 pis, I could easily saw it moving like a clock with my eyes!

2. shut off the bottle valve, release the cga nut


FlyingHellFish said:


> Do this slowly if loud sound scares you.


It is not that scary :grin2: but thanks to the reminding

3. I didn't wait too long as I was a little impatient:|, but after 15 minutes I was very sure the LP gauge did not move at all. By the way the time I tested it _I forgot to turn the knob all the way counterclockwise_ before release the cga connector but the co2 in the LP end didn't go out. So maybe there is an internal check valve preventing co2 backflow I suppose? Do I need to do it again?

To my understanding, it sounds like the 2 stage is okay. Something probably wrong in the first stage or between 1 and 2 stage that letting co2 enter 2 stage.

Thanks


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Rats! I was hoping maybe it be the gauge or something else.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

It totally broke my heart as well  such a beauty.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

piggy82 said:


> 3. I didn't wait too long as I was a little impatient:|, but after 15 minutes I was very sure the LP gauge did not move at all. By the way the time I tested it _I forgot to turn the knob all the way counterclockwise_ before release the cga connector but the co2 in the _LP end didn't go out_. So maybe there is an internal check valve preventing co2 backflow I suppose?
> 
> Thanks



That strange! So the HP side will leak in but the LP won't leak out? I have a 312 I can test out, but the LP side should leak out if you open both stages.

Hopefully its clog with dirt or tape.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

The regulator was shinny when it arrived with absolutely no sign of previous use. So I suspect it is indeed a new or almost new one. I consider myself extremely cautious but even like that I still left a few scratches on the nut when installing it. So it is unlikely clogged by some dirt. The best I can image is this is defective from the factory. Maybe I got one unit assembled in Friday afternoon?  I don't know...

Anyway I have already prepared to give up on this one. Now every evening I shut off the bottle valve and let the system drain off the CO2 before close the solenoid, or else every morning I would wake up seeing a 100 LP psi! I am not sure how long the solenoid can handle this pressure before giving up..

I have ordered a used harris 9296 (yes I know, a brass one w/o chrome!) to replace it. :'( Hopefully some time in future I can open the regulator and at least figure out the cause.

Thank you again


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

piggy82 said:


> The regulator was shinny when it arrived with absolutely no sign of previous use. So I suspect it is indeed a new or almost new one. I consider myself extremely cautious but even like that I still left a few scratches on the nut when installing it. So it is unlikely clogged by some dirt. The best I can image is this is defective from the factory. Maybe I got one unit assembled in Friday afternoon?  I don't know...
> 
> Anyway I have already prepared to give up on this one. Now every evening I shut off the bottle valve and let the system drain off the CO2 before close the solenoid, or else every morning I would wake up seeing a 100 LP psi! I am not sure how long the solenoid can handle this pressure before giving up..
> 
> ...


There is a used 312 going for $63 shipped. It sounds like the 312 you have has a bad diaphragm. You didn't do the leak test prior assembling the system?


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

AlanLe said:


> There is a used 312 going for $63 shipped. It sounds like the 312 you have has a bad diaphragm. You didn't do the leak test prior assembling the system?


I didn't because I naively thought it should be good as it looks like new. A hard lesson to learn.

The 9296 I bought only costed $28 including shipping, I will wait to see if it works  Though I still want a chromed or even a SS regulator to match my parts.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

If you were local, I would sell you my 312's which is doing absolutely nothing on my self. Try searching around the holiday season, it's a great time for regulators.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

FlyingHellFish said:


> If you were local, I would sell you my 312's which is doing absolutely nothing on my self. Try searching around the holiday season, it's a great time for regulators.


Thank you so much! I will wait and see if the 9296 works for me. If it does then I probably would settle down and focus on growing plants instead, they are doing pretty terrible now ... >


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

piggy82 said:


> Thank you so much! I will wait and see if the 9296 works for me. If it does then I probably would settle down and focus on growing plants instead, they are doing pretty terrible now ... >



I thought you are supposed to take care of your co2 regulator. Did I get things mixed up in the hobby? Damn


-Alan


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

AlanLe said:


> I thought you are supposed to take care of your co2 regulator. Did I get things mixed up in the hobby? Damn
> 
> 
> -Alan


yeah I plan to open and try to look into it to figure out what happend, but I may not use it on a co2 tank anymore. So I bought another regulator. Common sense tells me that if I didn't even know too much when buying this regulator, then as long as I open it I should not use it in a pressurized environment anymore or else I may easily blow something up  I am just too scared of playing with these things.

Bump: Today I received my 9296 and to my big surprise it looks very new as well. I paid around $28 including shipping so I didn't expect it to be in such a good condition at all. The seller may not realize that a 9296 in such condition could easily sell a lot more on evilbay. 

Did some testing and it appears this one is working perfectly. :grin2:

FYI, as a reference if anyone want to buy this regulator, Harris says on their website that this one has a 5/8"-18 flare outlet, but in fact this is only b/c they added a 1/4NPT to 5/8"-18 adapter on it. A male 1/4 NPT would work perfectly for it as long as you remove the adapter. Inlet seems to be 1/4 NPT as well but I didn't bother with removing it.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

I'm currently trying to decide between a 312 and a 315 I'm looking at. And it's your fault.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

sorry what did you mean it was my fault?....


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

I'm just blaming you for my habit.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

it is a good habit!


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

I do hope you get that 312 fixed up. I've seen them, but never owned one, and I really like the look. But I recently realized that a 315 body looks identical except for different angles on the ports, and the back end "butt" is 7/8" shorter. The 312 I'm looking at has a more ideal pressure range, but the 315 is supposed to be new, so theoretically I won't be taking a gamble because oxygen reg diaphragms tend to crap the bed more quickly than others. But buying from the 'bay is always a gamble. I may have to toss a coin.


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## Argus (May 22, 2013)

kevmo911 said:


> The 312 I'm looking at has a more ideal pressure range, but the 315 is supposed to be new, so theoretically I won't be taking a gamble because oxygen reg diaphragms tend to crap the bed more quickly than others. But buying from the 'bay is always a gamble. I may have to toss a coin.


I wasn't aware you could use an oxygen regulator for CO2. I know someone selling a good one on [Ebay Link Removed] User name is casawasabi. I've been using the an identical regulator for an oxy-propane torch for years. It has always worked well. We bought these regulators at about the same time. The auction is currently at $20 and only goes until Sunday.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

Argus said:


> I wasn't aware you could use an oxygen regulator for CO2. I know someone selling a good one on [Ebay Link Removed] User name is casawasabi. I've been using the an identical regulator for an oxy-propane torch for years. It has always worked well. We bought these regulators at about the same time. The auction is currently at $20 and only goes until Sunday.


Sure, practically any regulator will do, regardless of the type of gas it was designed for. Some regulators have odd-sized ports, so they're tougher to work with, and medical oxygen regulators tend to be single stage and have a low pressure gauge that measures output in volume per time. Torch regs work fine, but acet regs tend to have a low output (15psi max), and they're generally single stage. The VTS/SR series Victor regs have been around for decades and continue to do their jobs. The 400/450 model is *massive* - that's the one your guy is selling. But, yeah, it'll work fine once you switch out the nipple.

Some people advise against using a reg that was originally used for toxic gas, but once it's cleaned up and blown out, I don't see a problem. And I've never seen any evidence of one doing anything horrible to a tank.

Anyway, the Concoa 315 is a dual-stage reg, designed for lab use. They're not all oxygen regs, but many are, including the one I'm looking at.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

I think you can use whatever regulator for co2 application as co2 is one of the gases with low pressure and non-flammable non-corrosive, but please correct me if I was wrong.
@kevmo911 the LP gauge on 315 looks a little weird to me... maybe it takes more space for the assembly I suspect?

Bump:


kevmo911 said:


> Some people advise against using a reg that was originally used for toxic gas, but once it's cleaned up and blown out, I don't see a problem. And I've never seen any evidence of one doing anything horrible to a tank.
> 
> .


I think their concern may be mainly based on the material of diaphragm. If it is neoprene than it may sound like it will absorb some of the "toxic gas".


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

piggy82 said:


> I think you can use whatever regulator for co2 application as co2 is one of the gases with low pressure and non-flammable non-corrosive, but please correct me if I was wrong.
> 
> @*kevmo911* the LP gauge on 315 looks a little weird to me... maybe it takes more space for the assembly I suspect?


Looking at a 315 from the front, the input is at 3 o'clock, the high pressure port is at 12, and the low pressure port is at 9. It's basically a tee, with both the output and LP gauge coming off the same port. You could do that with any reg, and run both the LP gauge and output from the same port, either the normal LP port, or the output, and just plug the one you're not using. But it'd look a little funny 

I have no idea if there's some functionality behind the design. *Maybe* it has something to do with the second stage being in an odd place because the body is shortened.


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

kevmo911 said:


> Looking at a 315 from the front, the input is at 3 o'clock, the high pressure port is at 12, and the low pressure port is at 9. It's basically a tee, with both the output and LP gauge coming off the same port. You could do that with any reg, and run both the LP gauge and output from the same port, either the normal LP port, or the output, and just plug the one you're not using. But it'd look a little funny
> 
> I have no idea if there's some functionality behind the design. *Maybe* it has something to do with the second stage being in an odd place because the body is shortened.


I have seen a couple of regulators in this set up and never figured out the purpose of it. May be the designer just got bored with the traditional design?... I don't know. Personally I would still prefer the the "micky-mouse-like" traditional port position.

And thank you for the information about gauge placement! I always thought regulators had designated ports for LP/HP gauges >


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