# Filter system idea for 180G Starphire tank



## flymo (Apr 5, 2009)

Hi everyone,

I'm currently in the process of planning and designing a 180G Starphire planted tank. My goal for this tank, is having as much equipment as possible hidden under the tank, so I can just enjoy looking at a living and breathing piece of art (hopefully). I also wanted a tank that was not a pain in the neck to look after, and easy to do regular work on (water changes).

I've spent a bit of time drooling over many build threads, especially the following 3 tanks:

1. *230G Rimless Starphire AquaForest (56K!)*
Link: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/t...39-230g-rimless-starphire-aquaforest-56k.html

2. *Son of Kahuna (56K!)*
Link: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/47667-son-kahuna-56k.html

3. *Tom's 180 wood scaping*
Link: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/59705-toms-180-wood-scaping.html

The creativity and innovation in these builds have really inspired me to think outside the square in terms of how to set up my aquarium, and I came up with this design as my filtration system:

Diagram 1: (oh the hours I spent on Google SketchUp trying to build this lol)









Diagram 2:









My own experience is pretty much limited to Canister filtration systems, so I would really appreciate some other perspectives for my design.

The design uses 1 1/2" PVC piping, with lots of Double Union Ball Valves (to make it easier to work on specific aspects of the system without having to shut the whole thing down).

The diagrams are not to scale, more to provide a schematic of how I think it will work.

From Diagram 1:

1. 
The water is drained from the tank (not sure what type or size of pump I would need for this setup).

2. 
The flow is split into 2 lines, both firstly going through mechanical filtration (at this point I'm thinking of using 2 of the Lifeguard Aquatics Mechanical Filter Modules (Model# AF-94, Link: http://www.lifegardaquatics.com/products/product.php?id=1).

On the bottom left of the diagram, I have included a union valve (would be closed all the time) which I can open to allow water to drain out of the system.

3.
Both flows then move through the heating modules (again Lifeguard Aquatics, Model# AF-92-19, Link: http://www.lifegardaquatics.com/products/product.php?id=3).

I would probably put a Eheim Jager 300W heater (Link: http://www.aquariumproductswholesale.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=421) in both of these modules.

4.
Both flows join up again and are heading straight to the CO2 reactor, however I would adjust the Union Valve before the CO2 to direct the right amount of flow to the Fluidized Bed filter (Secondary Return).

5.
I haven't used a Fluidized bed filter before, however I really like the sound of them. I went this option because once they are set up (correctly of course) they don't really require much attention (from what I've read).

6.
For CO2, I was either going to go for the Aquamedic CO2 Reactor 1000 (Link: http://www.aquariumproductswholesale.com/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=114) or a DIY reactor. 

7.
Both returns go back to the display tank.

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

The biggest questions I have about this design,

1. Will it work?

2. What size/type pump would I need for it to run effectively?

3. Are there any tweaks and adjustments that could improve the system

4. I will be using a PH controller with a probe, would anyone be able to tell me where would be the the most effective place to set the probe for my filtration system design?

5. Are Fluidized Bed filters effective for planted co2 aquariums?


Thank you for reading my post, and I highly encourage any feedback/comments to improve this design.

Cheers,

Cam


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

> 1. Will it work?


Anything can work with the right pump.



> 3. Are there any tweaks and adjustments that could improve the system


Use valves and and union fittings and add more bypass loops so that you can easily turn off the sytem and disassemble for maintenance in sections or completly take apart. This is a must.

Provide accomodations to expand the unit to add more "stuff" if needed like a UV sterilizer for example.



> 4. I will be using a PH controller with a probe, would anyone be able to tell me where would be the the most effective place to set the probe for my filtration system design?


Anywhere after your mechanical filters would seem logical if your going inline with it.

Good luck.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

High pressure pump is needed anything over 1100gph. Prefer the Blue Line 70 HD 1700gph : http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=485.
Filter I would go with ether OC or Nu-Clear and keep the Line at 1 inch. Prefer the Nu-Clear 533 and a 547 : http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Inland_Seas_500_Series_Nu_Clear_Modular_Canister_Filters_s/224.htm.
Heater I would go with a Custom fitted modular with a Titanium heater with bushing and centering collar with ether 500w or 1000w and controller.
http://www.jehmco.com/html/heaters.html#Heater Module.
and if need for UV I would get a Current Gamma Pond 25w or 40w .
http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Current_USA_Gamma_UV_Sterilizers_s/417.htm .
and use 2x 3/4 inch Y split modularhose for your returns and put 1 off center to the left and the other at the right end or have some one drill them on the back of the tank. 
http://www.modularhose.com/
and paint the back of the tank Black

That would be my IMO also ask in http://www.barrreport.com/
I belive Tom has that same tank set up?


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## flymo (Apr 5, 2009)

Thanks for the feedback guys, I really appreciate it.

*Inkslinger*, 


> I would go with ether OC or Nu-Clear


I live in Australia, and unfortunately those OC or Nu-Clear filters don't seem to be available here. Which is frustrating because they look like high quality units. I even looked at the possibility of ordering them internationally, however I don't think the shipping cost is viable. I've seen a lot of negative feedback about the Lifeguard Aquatics Mechanical Filter modules, in terms of they seem to clog up way too quickly. So I think I am going to have a go at DIY mechanical filtration/heating modules 



> keep the Line at 1 inch


I have taken this on board, and will plan my plumbing to use 1 inch fittings and pipes.

*Gmccreedy*,


> Use valves and and union fittings and add more bypass loops so that you can easily turn off the sytem and disassemble for maintenance in sections or completly take apart. This is a must


This really got me thinking about the whole design, your absolutely right, would be a nightmare to have to adjust something and not having that ability to disassemble the main parts of the system.

So by taking the feedback on board, I came up with........

DIY Mechanical and Heater modules:









The modules themselves will be constructed from PVC pipes, probably min size of 4", up to 6" (with threaded caps, sealed with O-rings). The threaded caps should provide a water tight seal as well as make it possible to open the modules to perform cleaning and so forth.

The mechanical module will contain course media in the first part (highlighted in green in the diagram), then flow down into the foam section. Course to fine media will be layered from top to bottom, which will have a section with no media near the return.

The Heating module, will have the water pumping from bottom to top, with the first section filled with Filter foam (coarse with some fine on top). This is for when I am servicing the mechanical module, the filter media in the heater module should pick up any debris.

From this design, I then did up a plan of the whole system:

Flow Diagram 1 (Blue indicates where the water is flowing, Red = ball valves):









Flow Diagram 2:









Flow Diagram 3: (I didn't draw in the FBF or CO2 reactor yet)









The plumbing is set up so that if any of the modules need to be cleaned, I can divert the flow:

Mechanical Module being serviced (View 1):









Mechanical Module being serviced (View 2):









Heating Module being serviced (View 1):









Heating Module being serviced (View 2):









I know from the pictures the modules don't look very secure just balancing on their own, however I would build a bit of a base or supports for each unit.

Any feedback and suggestions with this design, or how it could be improved would be greatly appreciated,

Cheers


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## Souldier_ATF (Mar 19, 2007)

What software are you using to draw out your model? Excellent work I think.


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## moogoo (Dec 7, 2007)

looks like google sketchup


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## sunfire99 (Apr 8, 2009)

My .02 cents is why do all that plumbing and module building when you can use a sump that allow tons of flexibility, simplifies the plumbing and will likely cost less than all the plumbing required to use the "closed" system. Nearly all maintenance can be done without interrupting the entire circulation of your tank. Drop in a heater, drop in a UV loop, run canister filters, add additional return circulation, use bio filtration, auto topoff is simply done with a sump. Sounds like an awesome project, and I wish you the best. I'll be following along on your build thread. 

Steve


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## colinthebassist (Nov 30, 2007)

Move the pump to somewhere after the mechanical filtration. Most pumps are not designed to have sludge in the them.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Most Pumps are made to run first inline , You would like to push the water thru the system not pull only on a sump would you pull the water thru.


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## wkndracer (Mar 14, 2009)

Very interesting project but I'm with Sunfire99 in thinking a sump system would be easier to deal with and modify as needed in the future.


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## nokturnalkid (Apr 3, 2007)

+1 for the sump.


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## mott (Nov 23, 2006)

inkslinger said:


> Most Pumps are made to run first inline , You would like to push the water thru the system not pull only on a sump would you pull the water thru.


I don't believe in this statement, most are made to run at the end of the line, I can't think of any canisters that have the pump in line first...


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Hey flymo check this out :

http://www.barrreport.com/general-p...lon-rimless-starfire-wood-scape-thus-far.html


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## Raul-7 (Oct 17, 2003)

mott said:


> I don't believe in this statement, most are made to run at the end of the line, I can't think of any canisters that have the pump in line first...


Canister filters do not rely on the same principles as closed-loops used with pressure-pumps.

I agree, a sump is a must on a larger system.


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## mott (Nov 23, 2006)

^^^So closed loop systems with pressure pumps, the pumps are in line first?


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## Raul-7 (Oct 17, 2003)

mott said:


> ^^^So closed loop systems with pressure pumps, the pumps are in line first?


Yes, the pump is first and then everything else comes after it.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Yes Mott Ocean Clear and Nu-Clear Canister Filters You would place your Pump inline first Then filter then anything else you would like.

flymo you should ask around http://www.barrreport.com/ There are a few people including Tom Barr that has a Tank like yours they could help you out better.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

mott said:


> I don't believe in this statement, most are made to run at the end of the line, I can't think of any canisters that have the pump in line first...



http://www.barrreport.com/general-plant-topics/5654-pumps-position-filter-system-close-loop.html


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## mott (Nov 23, 2006)

So any pre filters on the pump? I would imagine the pump would get clogged pretty quick, I don't own a big tank or a nu clear filter ... I was referring to canister filters such as the majors ehiem, xp etc...


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Some put a sponge on the intake for a pre filter for OC and NC even wet-dry use a sponge for a pre filter . 
Canister filters such as the majors ehiem, xp etc... wouldn't need a external pump because it has one built in it , I also have a Eheim Pro 2 2028 an i use a sponge on the intake as a pre filter to keep it from getting dirty quicker.


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