# Plant before water or after water is added?



## jmhk (May 3, 2013)

Plants in the tank can help it cycle faster. However, don't let your ammonia levels get too high (over ~5-6) or some more sensitive plants will melt and/or die. Too high of ammonia levels can even slow down the cycle - you want to stay in that sweet spot around 4. Warmer temps will cycle faster, but again, don't go so high as to stress the plants. You need to fill your tank and have your filter running during cycling - the media in the filter is the fastest place for the bacteria to grow and you want good circulation during the cycling.

Check Diana's standard info on this recent thread...
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=745882&highlight=fishless+cycle

Here is another decent step-by-step for fishless cycling...
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...guide-and-faq-to-fishless-cycling-148283.html


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

djb7880 said:


> So here's the questions...
> Do I setup my aquarium layout, ie with everything and add just a bit of water to moisten the eco-complete and wait until I add plants before filling it all the way? Or do I fill it all the way and start the cycling process, then plant the plants later?


I would fill it just a little and start planting before you fill it up all the way. Depending on the plants (buoyancy), it is a bit easier that way. 

Also keep in mind that it is better to add more fast growing plants in the beginning, at least until things stabilize.


----------



## Psycofc1 (Feb 28, 2013)

I always prefer to plant first then fill makes it a bit easier to work. Fill up until its just above the gravel then sdo all the planting the fill slowly after that looking for floaters.


----------



## Tiptop (Apr 15, 2013)

+1 to filling just above the gravel then planting. That way, if you take a while to plant, you don't have to worry about some more delicate plants drying out and wilting. When you do fill, I recommend putting some plastic shopping bags in the tank and pouring over them to keep from disturbing the plants and substrate. Don't worry if the plants look bent right after the fill, they'll usually straighten out towards the light.

The plants will help a bit with the cycle and, if they come from a tank with fish, will have some of that precious bacteria on them to get it going even quicker.


----------



## djb7880 (Jan 21, 2014)

Tiptop said:


> +1 to filling just above the gravel then planting. That way, if you take a while to plant, you don't have to worry about some more delicate plants drying out and wilting. When you do fill, I recommend putting some plastic shopping bags in the tank and pouring over them to keep from disturbing the plants and substrate. Don't worry if the plants look bent right after the fill, they'll usually straighten out towards the light.
> 
> The plants will help a bit with the cycle and, if they come from a tank with fish, will have some of that precious bacteria on them to get it going even quicker.


Sounds good... I am going to give it a go this weekend. I hope it goes well!!:icon_conf

Thank you all so much for the tips!


----------



## fishbone11 (Sep 11, 2014)

As an aid to the OP and myself, how much ammonia is added to a 40 gal tank to get in the ball park of 5ppm?
Are we talking drops or cap fulls?


----------



## lochaber (Jan 23, 2012)

I find it easier to fill after planting.

I also use a clean spray bottle filled with treated water, and heavily spray/mist the substrate and the plants while I'm working. This both keeps the plants from drying out, and helps wash the fines down into the substrate, so it isn't cloudy upon filling.

I almost never wash my substrate, and I get crystal clear tanks right from the beginning doing this.


----------



## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Ammonia is sold in different concentrations. 
The first time, try a few drops, let it circulate, then test. It should be under 5 ppm. 
Do some calculations, and add more. Test to see that it is still under or about 5 ppm. 
Simple calculation, like... 
I added 10 drops and it is only 2ppm ammonia, so I will add 10 more, test, and might need 5 more after that.

I know I cycled a big tank (88 gallon) and measured it out with a syringe (no needle of course) but I have several and do not remember which one I used. Small amounts, anyway.


----------



## fishbone11 (Sep 11, 2014)

Thank you, drops it is.


----------



## Mohoso (Jul 9, 2014)

I bought a bunch of hornwort to cycle my tank in the beginning to ensure that everything settled in before adding any plants with value. When it was time for a big water change I removed the hornwort dropped the water level and planted my "good" plants.


----------



## vanish (Apr 21, 2014)

I have planted large tanks (75G and 150G). In most cases, its a LOT easier to plant them with just enough water as recommended above. However, with certain large plants this just doesn't work (Giant Vals, large Wisteria, etc) as they just cover everything else. I plant all my small plants first with little water, then increase my water and plant my large plants.

I also use a spray bottle during planting as it can take hours.

Good luck! I like working with my 75G. It has a nice footprint / height ratio.


----------



## lochaber (Jan 23, 2012)

As to the ammonia, if you are using a common brand, you might be able to find a web calculator or something to give you an idea.

something like this maybe: http://www.fishforums.net/aquarium-calculator.htm

Otherwise, you could try adding a small amount to a known volume (I used a 5 gallon bucket), figuring out the ppm, and then adjusting for your tank. If you go this way, I'd either try a couple iterations/verifications, or undershoot your tank level, measure, and adjust.

This worked pretty well for me, so I have marked on my ammonia bottle how many mls/10gallons for a 1ppm increase.


----------

