# Green spot algae help



## 72hondo (Dec 15, 2015)

I have the exact same problem except with EI. 

I backed off the nitrates due to fish load, but it didn't get any better. I've slowly been upping the nitrates. Use to be at 1/16 now I'm 3/16. 

It's helped but hasn't solved the problem. I think it's a K issue. 











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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

Tom Barr induces it by lowering co2 and/or phosphates. Try increasing one or both.


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Increasing po4 decreased it a lot in my tank. Also why do you have a 14 hour photo period? Are you running the lights on the 24/7 mode?


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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

No comment on the LEDs, that's too new school for me. Sounds excessive though.


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## Waters (Oct 15, 2012)

Nlewis said:


> Increasing po4 decreased it a lot in my tank. Also why do you have a 14 hour photo period? Are you running the lights on the 24/7 mode?


Yes, the two 24/7 lights are running in 24/7 mode, shutting off at 8 by a timer. The PAR values from 6:00pm to 8:00pm never go higher than 14 so I don't think that is the issue, but who knows. I liked the sunset that those lights provided, which is why I am running them in that mode. I will try increasing my dosing (PO4) to see if that helps. My CO2 is already pretty high, with my drop checker turning light green, almost yellowish.


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Waters said:


> Yes, the two 24/7 lights are running in 24/7 mode, shutting off at 8 by a timer. The PAR values from 6:00pm to 8:00pm never go higher than 14 so I don't think that is the issue, but who knows. I liked the sunset that those lights provided, which is why I am running them in that mode. I will try increasing my dosing (PO4) to see if that helps. My CO2 is already pretty high, with my drop checker turning light green, almost yellowish.


Well if the repens is growing fine other than the green spot, I would chop it down so it's not so unsightly.


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## Waters (Oct 15, 2012)

Nlewis said:


> Well if the repens is growing fine other than the green spot, I would chop it down so it's not so unsightly.


The Hygro Corymbosa (which is the picture I attached) seems to be growing fine......it has doubled in size in less than a month. I have to clip the tops off weekly to avoid it growing out of the water. The strange part though is I get random leaves and sometimes stems, 2-3 inches long, that seem to melt off and float to the top. I must have an imbalance somewhere...just not sure where. Everything in the tank is growing quickly with almost 0 algae present, except for the green spot algae. I would think that it could be due to the fact that the stems have really filled in and they are packed pretty tightly but sometimes the stems that melt are the top section of the plant, which appear the healthiest. Here are two pictures for reference, only a couple of months apart. What would cause a seemingly healthy, growing plant to melt 2/3 of the way up, at the stem? The section that breaks off still looks healthy, except for the small section where the stem broke loose, which is black.


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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

Maybe melting below from overcrowding but at the top could be a micronutrient deficiency. As far as the bottom goes, when I grew corymbosa it liked to grow a massive root base and I would stimulate branching by trimming low and discarding the top. I'd have only two or three rooted stems in the corners of a medium tank, maybe just one in a 10gl or less. The top will eventually fill out with pruning and it will need to grow a root base to match it.

Bump: Like if I was lining the back wall, I'd do a single row, as far as 3 inches apart from one another.


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## Waters (Oct 15, 2012)

jaidexl said:


> Maybe melting below from overcrowding but at the top could be a micronutrient deficiency. As far as the bottom goes, when I grew corymbosa it liked to grow a massive root base and I would stimulate branching by trimming low and discarding the top. I'd have only two or three rooted stems in the corners of a medium tank, maybe just one in a 10gl or less. The top will eventually fill out with pruning and it will need to grow a root base to match it.
> 
> Bump: Like if I was lining the back wall, I'd do a single row, as far as 3 inches apart from one another.


Ok thanks......I definitely packed them in more than that. I think I planted them about 1.5 inches apart, three rows deep. I have increased my dosing of both Macros and Micros so hopefully that makes a difference. The strange part is the leaves themselves are not melting....just various spots on the main stem which either causes the leave or a portion of the stem to detach. It isn't everywhere.....as a matter of fact, I can never pinpoint where the detached portion even comes from.


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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

Weird, usually when it detaches at the bottom it's pretty much by choice of the plant, it doesn't send any more hormones to a lower portion that can't receive light or just isn't functioning for whatever reason, and it will release itself and go somewhere else, root back into the same spot or float. But anywhere but the lowest part of the plant is odd. I think I put a root tab under them once, seems like a good idea considering how big the roots get, if you've grown swords they're almost the same. I had the leaves of one giant Hygro take over an entire 5 gallon guppy tank, it grew way above the surface and tried to flower, lol. Needless to say the entire floor turned up when I pulled it.


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## Willcooper (May 31, 2015)

How are you testing nitrates? API test kit? I just found out that my API nitrate tests have been high by 20ppm. I called my water company after testing the tap at about 20ppm and they sent out a tech who used a light meter of some kind who told me that my tap has 2.25ppm nitrate. After watching some videos on how the test actually works I can see the flaw in api's liquid test kits. I have now ordered seachem's test kit for hopefully a more reliable reading. I would bet that the problem is in your nitrate and phosphate levels. I think the goal is 10-1 nitrate to phosphate. If your readings are right right now you're a 100-1


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## 72hondo (Dec 15, 2015)

Willcooper said:


> How are you testing nitrates? API test kit? I just found out that my API nitrate tests have been high by 20ppm. I called my water company after testing the tap at about 20ppm and they sent out a tech who used a light meter of some kind who told me that my tap has 2.25ppm nitrate. After watching some videos on how the test actually works I can see the flaw in api's liquid test kits. I have now ordered seachem's test kit for hopefully a more reliable reading. I would bet that the problem is in your nitrate and phosphate levels. I think the goal is 10-1 nitrate to phosphate. If your readings are right right now you're a 100-1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Not saying this didn't happen but if you let the #2 bottle sit, it has a tendency to crystallize. If you shake the whole hell out of it, beat it up against something for 30 seconds. Seems to clear things up. 


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## Willcooper (May 31, 2015)

72hondo said:


> Not saying this didn't happen but if you let the #2 bottle sit, it has a tendency to crystallize. If you shake the whole hell out of it, beat it up against something for 30 seconds. Seems to clear things up.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro




I agree with that and I do vigorously shake the bottle for at least 30 straight seconds. What I watched was someone explain that if you mess it up once, i.e. Not shake it up a well enough and the powder doesn't fully float in the water, you won't get accurate readings after that because the suspended powder will no longer be in the proportion it needs to be to ensure a proper reading. Whereas with the seachem test kit, you add the correct powder to each dose so you know that you will get the readings the test intended. 


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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

According to an API rep that will happen with any liquid nitrate reagent where you have 2 bottles. He said we should actually be banging bottle #2 on a hard surface first to loosen the crystals, and then shake it for a minute rather than 30 seconds. I've been doing it that way ever since and haven't had any questionable results but don't use it as much either. Seachem makes good test kits, API is cheap but you've got to be careful with that type of no3 kit, otherwise they're good bang for the buck.


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## Waters (Oct 15, 2012)

Willcooper said:


> How are you testing nitrates? API test kit? I just found out that my API nitrate tests have been high by 20ppm. I called my water company after testing the tap at about 20ppm and they sent out a tech who used a light meter of some kind who told me that my tap has 2.25ppm nitrate. After watching some videos on how the test actually works I can see the flaw in api's liquid test kits. I have now ordered seachem's test kit for hopefully a more reliable reading. I would bet that the problem is in your nitrate and phosphate levels. I think the goal is 10-1 nitrate to phosphate. If your readings are right right now you're a 100-1
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I actually tested with Salifert....I try to avoid API whenever possible. I definitely need to increase my PO4...hopefully my additional dosing takes care of that and balances things out.


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