# My Finnex 4 Gallon Nano (RETIRED)



## tuonor (Nov 26, 2009)

Great looking tank TLE. I like how you laid it out and the lace plant looks awesome.

Curious about the CPDs -- how shy are they in a nano tank like this? Will they stay out and about if you're near the tank or do they hide? Seems like you managed to get a few decent shots with them swimming about.

I took a look at these at my LFS (which has them in a densely planted tank) but they would all bolt to the back whenever I came be. I went with Brigittaes instead b/c they seemed bolder but am still drawn to the CPDs.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks tuonor.

The CPDs have only been in the tank for a little more than a day. From what I've seen, they are much shyer than any fish I've kept. However, they don't just hide out in amongst the plants all day like so many articles claim. My CPDs are all over the tank, even near the open spaces below the water line. If I slowly approach the tank, they just ignore me, but if I reach my hands towards the tank, they will dart behind the plants. They'll come out again in no time, though.

I was looking for brigittaes as well, but they are even harder to track down than CPDs (most microrasboras are).


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

I've just spent about 30 minutes trying to net out some RCS from the other tank to put into this one. I've managed to get 4 (2 males and 2 females). Let's just say that was a real test of patience. Those little buggers are fast, and the Edge's tiny opening didn't help at all.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Just a little progress update. It's been one week since I've put in the CPDs. They're doing great so far. They've really come out of their shell and swimming all over the tank now. They've also brightened up quite a bit since I got them. Here are a few pictures:

Here are a few of the fishes 

Their colors are actually much nicer in person (my poor photography skills and craptastic point & shoot camera don't do them justice). And boy are they fast. As soon as I press the shutter they've disappeared out of the frame.










This next one shows the white fuzz one the manzanita branches. It doesn't seem to be going away. I plan on adding a few amano shrimps since I've read that they devour this stuff (good/bad idea?)











Saying that these fishes are picky eaters is an understatement. I've thrown a bunch of different foods at them (flakes, pellets, freeze-dried, frozen, etc.) and this is the only thing they'll go for:











Here are two of the RCS. There are 11 of them in there the last time I counted

Tiny male going to town on an algae wafer:










Female starting to berry:











A lot of the equipment is being changed in the near future. I've ordered an Ehein 2211 canister to be used with lily pipes and a Hydor ETH 200W in line heater. I'm also scrapping the DIY yeast stuff for a compressed CO2 system. I'll post an update when they're delivered.

Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks for reading. :icon_wink


----------



## tuonor (Nov 26, 2009)

Now you have me wanting a few CPDs for my Edge...nice looking berried cherry.


----------



## MrJG (Feb 21, 2007)

Mine will eat the small fish formula too. Try crushing it up a good bit before feeding. They have tiny mouths and the .5mm pellets are pretty big.
Mine really go for the size #3 Golden Pearl brine shrimp from kensfish.com


----------



## MWBradshaw (Mar 21, 2010)

This makes me want to get a small nano aquarium!!


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks for the responses guys.

I've just put in 3 amano shrimps into each of the 2 tanks. I wanted help with the milky fuzz and hair algae that's starting to appear on the manzanita branches. 











The shrimps started working on the hair algae as soon as they're in the water. They gather a bunch of hairs and roll it into a ball first. Then they bring the ball to the substrate and go to town on it. I've noticed that sometimes they roll on their sides or even back while they're feeding. Should I be concerned?


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

One of the amano shrimp is on lying his side. This happened within 15 minutes of being put into the tank. He's still moving his swimmerets and legs, so I know he's still alive. The other two are active and eating.











Here's him/her next to a RCS (who I'm hoping is not there waiting to vulture it)











A lot of threads on here mention that it's pretty common for these guys to not survive initially in a new tank. I'd be gutted if he/she doesn't make it. It'll be my first livestock loss.

I'll post an update of his/her progress.


----------



## problemman (Aug 19, 2005)

he might be molting already. i know our blue crayfish lye on there sides when they molt


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Unfortunately, that little amano didn't make it. 

The other two in the tank are doing fine. Same for the other 3 that I put into the Edge.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

I replaced the echinodorus today. It was developing some brown spots on the leaves. In its place is a cryptocoryne. I tend to have better luck with crypts.


----------



## funkyfish (Mar 16, 2009)

Nice tank! Always nice to see CPDs in the tank I love these little fishes  

That manzanita looks like the bark wasn't taken off it, I got a small manzanita branch and mine is not that color maybe thats why you getting that white fuzz.....


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks funkyfish.

The red colored manzanita that I have still has its bark intact. The beige ones have been sandblasted to remove the bark. 

My two amanos don't seem to have any interest in it the white fuzz at all. I guess there's another food source in the tank that they'd prefer more. :confused1:


----------



## funkyfish (Mar 16, 2009)

TLE041 said:


> Thanks funkyfish.
> 
> The red colored manzanita that I have still has its bark intact. The beige ones have been sandblasted to remove the bark.
> 
> My two amanos don't seem to have any interest in it the white fuzz at all. I guess there's another food source in the tank that they'd prefer more. :confused1:


I don't think amanos or other shrimp eat that white fuzz because I don't think it's algae. The white fuzz is on the manzanita that has it's bark still attached to it right? If yes I would if possible remove it and sand blast it or peel the bark and maybe boil the branches...


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

From my research, that white fuzz is fungal. Apparently amanos are one of the few inhabitants that eat it.

I might be wrong, but I don't think the fuzz comes from the bark. It only appears on areas where the wood is exposed, like at the ends where the tip has been broken off or on areas where there are cracks in the bark. The rest of the bark has no fuzzy growth at all.

This stuff also originally grew on that piece of Malaysian driftwood in the tank, but it went away in a few weeks. Right now, there's nothing there.

I'm not too concerned about it, though. From what I've read, the fuzzy fungus usually go away in 2 weeks to a month.


----------



## funkyfish (Mar 16, 2009)

TLE041 said:


> From my research, that white fuzz is fungal. Apparently amanos are one of the few inhabitants that eat it.
> 
> I might be wrong, but I don't think the fuzz comes from the bark. It only appears on areas where the wood is exposed, like at the ends where the tip has been broken off or on areas where there are cracks in the bark. The rest of the bark has no fuzzy growth at all.
> 
> ...


You know I think you are right about that it does not come from the bark, if I remember correctly I think I had some on my mopany wood when I just set up my tank. You can always wash it off or just let it go away on its own. 

Anyway still a great looking tank  Can't wait for more pictures


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Nothing exciting to report. Just put in a plant that looks like a Blyxa japonica but 8" tall. I got it from a friend. Can anyone help ID this?











I'm also planning on taking out the dwarf hairgrass. It's not looking great. I never have any luck with this plant (regular hairgrass and dwarf). They just slowly turn brown and eventually melt away.


----------



## !shadow! (Jan 25, 2010)

try checking your diy co2 it might be low and while your at it why not add some root tabs to help with the growth of the hairgrass?


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Here's a whole tank shot. I don't like how it looks with the AC HOB on it. Hopefully the glass pipes I ordered will look better.













!shadow! said:


> try checking your diy co2 it might be low and while your at it why not add some root tabs to help with the growth of the hairgrass?


Thanks for the tip. If low CO2 is the cause, I'll wait until my pressure CO2 equipment arrives and see if it makes a difference before I take the plant out. I have a few Florish Tabs in the substrate already.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Added a pair of oto's to help with the hair algae. Between myself, the amanos, the RCS, and now these guys, hopefully we can keep the algae pretty minimal.


----------



## Fat Guy (Nov 19, 2003)

tuonor said:


> Now you have me wanting a few CPDs for my Edge...nice looking berried cherry.


I know right. Those fish look nice.


----------



## Fat Guy (Nov 19, 2003)

by the way, it's looking good. Very pretty tank. I know how you feel about not liking the looks of a HOB filter. That's what's nice about the Edge. Snap some photos of the new Lily Pipes and pressurized setup when you hook it up. great job! -el g


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks for the comments, Fat Guy. Great work on your Edge as well. I've been a fan of it for a while. 

I'll definitely post some pics when I have the lily pipes and other equipment are installed.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

It's been 2 weeks since the last update. A little has changed. I've removed the water sprite because it's growing way too fast for this little tank. The dwarf hairgrass wasn't doing too well so it's gone also. The microword has doubled in size since it was put into the tank so I thinned it out drastically. 

The fishes and shrimp are generally doing well. The only exception is the suicidal CPD that I found on the ground next to the tank one morning. It's unfortunate, but I knew the risk associated with open top tanks.

Here is a current picture:










Here's a short video of the tank. It shows the fishes and shrimps interacting.

The lily tubes that I've ordered arrived. I'm just waiting for the Eheim 2211 and the Hydor ETH 200 heater to be delivered. I'll post an update when everything is set up.

Once again, your comments are appreciated.


----------



## halcyon (Mar 26, 2010)

Nice video I am currently the sole viewer!


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Some new equipment arrived a few days ago. I've finally had the time to put it all together. Here's what it looks all connected together:










They include:

- Eheim 2211 canister filter
- Hydor ETH in line heater
- Aquaticmagic nano lily pipes
- Clear piping from Home Depot

I'll post an update soon when it's all installed.


----------



## goddessjen (Mar 9, 2008)

ooooohhh :drool: A 2211! I want one for my Finnex. I'm jealous... Isn't the Hydor a 200 watt heater? Is that overkill for a 4 gallon? It will look nice though since no heater in the tank...


----------



## Clemsons2k (May 31, 2009)

The white fuzz is fungus and it should go away after a little while. I had the same stuff on my drift wood during the break-in period of my tank. Nobody ate it and it eventually went away on its own.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

I found the 2211 on eBay. It was a toss-up between this canister or a Zoo Med 501. After a lot of reading I decided to go with the Eheim because of the generally positive reviews.

This is my first canister ever (all previous filters I've ever had were Aquaclears). I was pretty nervous at first because the many connections had me worried about my hardwood floors. In the end I went with it anyway because I figured it was a small tank and I hated the look of the HOB (it looked like a third the size of the tank). The streamline look is the reason I went with the in-line heater as well. I wanted a minimal glass tank with as few visible equipment as possible. 

I was hesitant about the 200W heater being overkill for 4 gallons as well, but from what I've read from people using it on their nanos, the thermostat on the unit is decent and there haven't been any overheating problems. Plus, I have it set on the lowest temp since I find that the CF light fixture alone provides enough warmth to heat the water to around 76F (the heater is mainly for the winter when the room temp is much lower).

Installing all this was definitely a new experience for me. Like I said, I've never had a canister before. The instructions that Eheim provided were basic to say the least (it's good if had an interest in learning different languages, bad if you are a newbie like me). The hardest part was priming the thing. Eheim suggested either buying a suction starter (for $$$), buying the deluxe intake tubes with a dedicated hole for priming (even more $$$), or sucking the water with your mouth and pray that you you won't get a mouthful of tank water, Luckily for me, the filter pretty much primed itself. All I had to do was toggle the control valves on and off. It was pretty loud for the first 30 minutes or so but it eventually became whisper quiet.

As predicted, the flow from this filter puts my Aquaclear 20 to shame. Between the filter's stronger output and the vortex action created by the lily pipes, hopefully the problems I've been having with surface scum and detritus collecting on the plants will be gone. There's also about 5 times the amount of biological media on this filter compared to the HOB (this is a good thing because I've just discovered that a local LFS has dwarf cories and I'm trying to fight the urge to get a few).

As for the pipes, they look quite attractive. However, I just know that they won't stay this clean for long. Cleaning it won't be a fun job.

Here are the pictures. There are micro bubbles on everything because I just did a water change.

Before:











After:










Close up of pipes: (no idea why the water looks so yellow)










I also put in a drop checker. Until I've decided on the which pressurized CO2 equipment to get, it's just going to be used with DIY for now.











Here's a little video showing the whole tank and the water flow.


----------



## ZooTycoonMaster (Jan 2, 2008)

You get that much CO2 with DIY? How are you diffusing it? I don't see it stuck into the lilly pipe


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

That was taken when my Aquaclear was still on. I diffused it with the chopstick in the AC method (see the thread in DIY). The combination of that plus champagne yeast can even compete with pressurized CO2. I've done all the requisite CO2/KH/pH tests.

Right now, I'm only using a glass diffuser, so it's not as efficient. It's only temporary until the in line diffuser that I've ordered from Rex Grigg comes. I'll use that with the CO2 equipment I'll pick up some time next week.


----------



## jargonchipmunk (Dec 8, 2008)

> champagne yeast can even compete with pressurized CO2


careful here lol. Yeast can absolutely "compete" with pressurized if you're talking in terms of supplying enough Co2 for a tank that small. However, stability is the key, and with yeast based systems, that's all up to the owner. I did it and I was NOT very good at keeping up with it lol. You seem to have the knack so far though.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Everything's doing well so far (*knock on wood*).

The glass diffuser I'm using with the CO2 is working great, but I wanted to try something different, so I replaced it with an Eheim air diffuser.










I like that it's adjustable so I can increase or decrease the CO2 output if I need to. Here it is in the tank:










Placed beside the glass filter input pipe..











As for the Hydor ETH heater, I'm quite impressed with it so far. For a 200W heater that's used on a 4 gallon nano, it keeps the tank at a constant temperature of 76.0F (even though I've set it as 72F on the heater). The digital thermometer I use doesn't fluctuate at all.










My only concern is that it does turn on and off very often (about every 5-10 minutes). I hope that this doesn't shorten its life. Only time will tell I guess.

Thanks for reading!


----------



## ZooTycoonMaster (Jan 2, 2008)

TLE041 said:


> Everything's doing well so far (*knock on wood*).
> 
> The glass diffuser I'm using with the CO2 is working great, but I wanted to try something different, so I replaced it with an Eheim air diffuser.
> 
> ...


That Eheim air diffuser looks very interesting. Where did you get it from, and for how much? And will it stay down by itself, or does it have to be attached to the suction cup? Sorry for so many questions


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

ZooTycoonMaster said:


> That Eheim air diffuser looks very interesting. Where did you get it from, and for how much? And will it stay down by itself, or does it have to be attached to the suction cup? Sorry for so many questions


I got it from a Big Al's store locally, but you can buy from the Big Al's website. It's available from many other online retailers as well.

It's basically a fancy air stone that produces micro bubbles and allows for adjustment of the output. You would have to use the suction cup because it's pretty light and will float otherwise.


----------



## ZooTycoonMaster (Jan 2, 2008)

TLE041 said:


> I got it from a Big Al's store locally, but you can buy from the Big Al's website. It's available from many other online retailers as well.
> 
> It's basically a fancy air stone that produces micro bubbles and allows for adjustment of the output. You would have to use the suction cup because it's pretty light and will float otherwise.


And you use this with DIY CO2? Does it create enough pressure to get the bubbles through? And isn't this just the same thing as a regular air stone/CO2 diffuser?

(again, I apologize for so many questions)


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

ZooTycoonMaster said:


> And you use this with DIY CO2? Does it create enough pressure to get the bubbles through? And isn't this just the same thing as a regular air stone/CO2 diffuser?
> 
> (again, I apologize for so many questions)


Yep, I have no problems using this or a glass diffuser with my DIY mixture using champagne yeast.

Like I said, this is basically an air stone, but the bubbles that it produces is much finer (similar to what you would get with a glass diffuser). Plus it has the bonus of being adjustable if you need it for whatever reason.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Pygmy cory napping on a laceleaf:


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Just barely avoided a disaster a few minutes ago. For people who think that they can't overdose with DIY CO2 - think again!

When I went to check on the tank I noticed that most of the fishes were either darting around the tank at near lightspeed or floating lifelessly at the surface. I tested the water and everything was normal. 

Then I noticed this:











I quickly unplugged the CO2 line and ran an airstone to get the CO2 level down. Luckily, things have improved quite a bit. No casualties. The fishes are swimming normally again and the CPDs have regained their colour (they were nearly white before). We'll see how they do overnight.

The RCS and amanos didn't seem to be bothered by the experience at all.

I wasn't too concerned about overdosing CO2 before because it was DIY and the diffusion method isn't exactly the most efficient. I guess you can never take things for granted when it comes to a tank this small. The danger is even greater at night when the plants stop photosynthesizing (like in this case).

I'll hold off on the CO2 until I install the CO2 kit that I ordered arrives.


----------



## SirKappa (Apr 19, 2010)

Glad to hear you didn't have any casualties!


----------



## goddessjen (Mar 9, 2008)

Where did you get your RCS, they look really red! 

I think that the eheim is overkill for your tank. You should sell it to me it is a better size for my nano tank anyway. You can get something better with the money I give you for it. Say about $10 and you can have a nice sponge filter for your tank.:flick:


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

goddessjen said:


> Where did you get your RCS, they look really red!


These shrimps were bred in my other tank (the Fluval Edge). I made sure the parents were two different strains (by getting them from two different fishkeepers) because I've read that repeated cycles of inbreeding causes the red colors to be more and more diluted. That's what these offsprings are redder than the parents, which were quite red to begin with. 




goddessjen said:


> I think that the eheim is overkill for your tank. You should sell it to me it is a better size for my nano tank anyway. You can get something better with the money I give you for it. Say about $10 and you can have a nice sponge filter for your tank.:flick:


Sounds like a fair trade to me! PM sent! :hihi:

LOL. I actually need all the filtration I can get. In the tank now there are 4 CPDs, 4 pygmy cories, an oto, 3 amano shrimps, and last I counted, 12 RCS. I added more than recommended because the fishes are so tiny, so their bioload shouldn't be too high. Also, their small size makes the tank look uncrowded.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

After browsing around at my favorite LFS yesterday, I picked four pieces of petrified wood to give the tank a makeover. I've always liked the look of them and how they resemble miniature sandstone cliffs. I selected four small ones with lots of texture to them. I took out the little piece of Malaysian driftwood and the larger manzanita branch that was currently in the tank. 

Here's how the tank looked before:










Here it is after the makeover:










Front tank shot:










Close up of the petrified wood:










Also, I wasn't too happy with a few of the plants that were in there previously. The Brazilian sword's leaves were getting too large and seemed out of scale with the size of tank. I also took out most of the java moss because it was growing at a ridiculous rate and I didn't really like the look of it (I left a small chunk in the back corner because the shrimps seem to enjoy lounging around in it). I also removed the fissidens because it wasn't very attractive either. In their place I added a _Cyperus helferi_ and a _Micranthemum umbrosum_ (regular baby tears). I got the C. helferi because I wanted a grassy plant that would bend over at the water surface and frame the the tank to give it a natural look. I liked the baby tears because it provided a leafy contrast to the rest of the spiky plant but still small to keep in proportion with the tank. 

Currently, the plants consist of:


Brazilian Micro Sword
Anubias petite
Cryptocoryne parva
Java fern
Madagascar laceleaf
Water onion
Cyperus helferi
Giant baby tears
Java moss

Closeup of the C. helferi (it looks almost identical regular lawn grass):










Closeup of the baby tears:










I was also concerned that there wasn't enough algae for the otos, amano shrimps, and RCS so I started giving them some dried seaweed (link) soaked in Kent's Zoe supplement (link) to make it even more nutritious.










Once again, all comments are welcome. Thanks for reading!


----------



## goddessjen (Mar 9, 2008)

Looking good! You need to get another tank, a big one to put the plants that eventually outgrow the nano . There's always room for another 100g lol.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

goddessjen said:


> Looking good! You need to get another tank, a big one to put the plants that eventually outgrow the nano . There's always room for another 100g lol.


LOL you must be reading my mind. I've actually been considering going big for a while but I didn't think I had the time for it (stupid school :help: ). I have a feeling I might just go for it anyways. I've had my eyes on the Fluval Osaka 260 (70 gal) for the longest time. 










I have the perfect place for it in my house. Stay tuned!


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

I went back to using the canister from the Nutrafin CO2 system that I had lying around. It's well built and won't leak. Plus I find that it dispenses the perfect amount of CO2 compared to the 2L bottle that I was using previously (which I quickly learned was way too large for this tank size and led to the overdosing of CO2). I also dialed down the Eheim diffuser to reduce output.

Here's a pic of the setup. It comprises of the tank, the Hagen CO2, digital thermometer, and a Nalgene bottle that containing the water for top-offs.











Angle view. The curved front corners might not be to everyone's liking, but it was one of the reason I bought this tank.











Cherry shrimps and cories at feeding time:


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

It's been over a month since I've last posted an update. The tank has matured nicely since them. It's now almost four months old now. Here's what I currently have in it:

Flora:

- Cyperus helferi
- Cryptocoryne parva
- Aponogeton madagascariensis
- Anubias nana (petite)
- Microsorum pteropus
- Lilaeopsis brasiliensis
- Micranthemum umbrosum
- Zephyranthes candida

Fauna:

- 6 celestial pearl danios
- 3 pygmy cories
- 8 red cherry shrimps (plus babies)
- 1 amano shrimp

I'm using DIY CO2 (with champagne yeast) and the 7 products from the Seachem Flourish line. The plants are healthy and growing at a good rate. 

Here's a pic of the tank after a thorough water change and trimming:











The fishes are doing also growing nicely. I have 4 males and 3 female CPDs in the tank. Their colors have improved quite a bit since I got them (thanks to the NLS food). I'm hoping they're mature enough to start breeding.

Here's a close up of the CPDs and a cory:











The shrimps have produced a batch of babies since I put them in the tank. They share the same foods as the pygmy cories.

Here's a pic of the biggest female RCS in the tank (munching on a food tablet):











Thanks for reading!


----------



## jeffvmd (Apr 16, 2010)

The CPD's are looking good. Mine are just starting to color up but not as nice as yours yet.
What size are they now?


----------



## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

The tank is looking much better. Looks like your CPDs are ready for spawning! By the way, I totally understand the diy co2 overdose. I've personally done it. Not a great feeling is it? I love the lace sword.


----------



## FooDog (Jun 28, 2010)

Awesome tank man, I saw this finnex contest in my facebook and you should def post this bad boy set up! I would enter but I only have a moss ball, lol.

http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/pages/Finnex/179948817944?ref=ts


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks for the heads up on the contest, FooDog. I might just enter. Doesn't look like there's much of a competition ATM. I can always use a spare filter.

How's your setup coming along?


----------



## FooDog (Jun 28, 2010)

Its going. Nothing special ...shy to post until I get it the way I like it, haha.


----------



## |GTO| (Oct 9, 2006)

nice tank. I should post up an amended journal for my finnex nano....maybe this weekend.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Just a minor update. I took out the manzanita branch and added an Eleocharis montevidensis for the background. My battle with BBA and thread algae continues. I've increased dosing of Excel to help this.

Here's a full tank shot:










Close-up shot:










Thanks for reading!


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

I did a bit of a trim and rescape today. Nearly half of the plant mass was removed to give the fishes more swimming room. I also took out one of the petrified wood pieces and added a driftwood branch for to provide a focal point.


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Two of the CPDs are pregnant!


----------



## mayphly (Jul 20, 2010)

Hi, I like your tank. I just bought one of these and was wondering if you're using the same light bulb that came with it? I'm thing of going with Saggitaria Dwarf and maybe baby tears. Still undecided. Thanks!


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Hi,

Yep, I still use the same 26W light that came with it. It's awesome. You'll have absolutely no problems growing any plant with that light. The only problem is finding a replacement bulb that's the same quality. I think we'd have to order it from Finnex directly.

Make sure you post a journal of your new tank. I love seeing what other people do with their Finnexes. There are quite a few nice ones on here.


----------



## Tphillips (Jul 22, 2010)

TLE041 said:


> Hi,
> 
> Yep, I still use the same 26W light that came with it. It's awesome. You'll have absolutely no problems growing any plant with that light. The only problem is finding a replacement bulb that's the same quality. I think we'd have to order it from Finnex directly.
> 
> Make sure you post a journal of your new tank. I love seeing what other people do with their Finnexes. There are quite a few nice ones on here.


Tony, we seem to have the same taste in tanks, I have an Edge, a Chi, and now I just bought a Finnex 4 gal. Anyway, the 26W light that came with the Finnex, at least mine, has a blue white bulb (30,000- 10,000K). The advertisments say that it good for both planted and reef tanks. It seems to me that it is closer to actinic bulb, which I believe is more for reef tank and thought not to perform will for a planted tank. So I am asking for your experience and if you have the same bulb as me? Certainly, your tank looks fantastic!!!

I was researching this idea/perceived problem and came accross you thread and also this site Aquatic Nature which appears to have made the light that Finnex is selling and also has replacement blubs.

http://www.aquatic-nature.com/2eng_verlichting2.html

One of the replacement bulbs is at 6500K, which to my limited understanding should be better for plants.

Any thoughts,

Tom


----------



## TLE041 (Jan 16, 2010)

Hi Tom,

I find myself drooling over the Chi every time I'm in Petsmart. The only issue is the inadequate LED lighting. Are you planning on DIYing something to enhance it or do you find it sufficient as is?

The blue/white bulb does seem like it's an actinic bulb, which I agree isn't really ideal for planted tanks. I like it because it gives a really pure white color. I figure that only 1/4 of the bulb is actinic so it shouldn't have much effect. All the plants I've put into the tank has done really well so I'm happy with it.

Thanks for the link. The 26W "Solar Lux" in either 6500K or 10000K would be perfect for this fixture. Too bad they don't have an online shop. It looks like a primarily European company.


----------



## Tphillips (Jul 22, 2010)

Hi Tony,

Yes, the Chi is a great little tank with the fountain on top and the built-in under-water light and filter. Fantastic idea - but that light it is so weak. I will see how my moss tree progresses. If it can't grow moss, I will likely have to do something.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/113257-fluval-chi-led-lights.html 

The main reason for getting the Finnex was to finally have a tank to work with where the amount of light was not such an obstacle to overcome. 

I am relieved to hear that you have the same bulb and I agree the light, to the human eye, is fantastic; both the plants and fish look great. The 6500k bulbs that I have seen do not have such a pleasant “look” to them. A factor that may also be helping this bulb’s ability to grow plants is that they claim the 26 watt bulb is so efficient that it is like having 100 watt light, so even if the percentages of light in the correct wavelengths are not predominate, with this much light, even a lower percent in the appropriate wave length for photosynthesis is enough for plants to grow. This bulb may also have built-in smaller frequency peaks that complement photosynthesis. 

I also posed this question to both Finnex and Aquatic Nature. If they respond, I will let you know their explanation.

In reality all that really matters is that the light grows plants and you have certainly demonstrate this to be true, so I am relieved and thankful that you were there first.

Thanks,

Tom


----------



## Tphillips (Jul 22, 2010)

Bryan from Finnex responded:

"Hi Tom

Thank you for your Finnex Pico Aquarium purchase. 

Opinions vary, some strongly believe 6500k is the best for plants. Others claim 10,000k. Many contributing factors are also involved. I believe it is all up to the individual and their current live stock. Many users of our bulbs do very well with their set ups as you can view on different forums. 

Our Energy Saving bulbs are not offered in 6500k but I believe marine depot carries one that will fit our unit. But to be honest, we have received no complaints with growth (both plants and corals) and I recommend you use the stock bulb. I'm sure you will be pleased.

Thanks Tom"

So with this information and your success, Tony. I decided to just use the stock bulb that came with the Finnex 4gal.

Today, I also decided to do silent cycle, bought a lot of stem plants, setup my CO2, and just went for it. No scaping here, just trying to do a silent cycle for now. To see, click on tank view under my UserName - you will also find closeup of Bacopa monnier, which seams to like the setup.
So far, all looks well. If these bulbs can silent cycle, this will be even greater proof.

Tom

Tom


----------

