# Planning a new build for my 25g



## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

Not sure which I would pick, but Arrow carries the EB strips and it looks like they have free international shipping on $50+ orders. You could get power supplies and/or drivers from them as well


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Don't think that EB Gen2 5700K needs supplementation. I will let you know in a couple of weeks how my tank with Gen 2 strips does with reds like AR Mini and also trying to get some reds out of Blyxa. It's also the easiest thing in the world to power with a $11 Meanwell APC-35-700 for 2x 56cm strips.


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Geoffrey2568 said:


> Not sure which I would pick, but Arrow carries the EB strips and it looks like they have free international shipping on $50+ orders. You could get power supplies and/or drivers from them as well


Thanks, funny enough i had already a cart saved with 2 strips and the PS for 35$



gus6464 said:


> Don't think that EB Gen2 5700K needs supplementation. I will let you know in a couple of weeks how my tank with Gen 2 strips does with reds like AR Mini and also trying to get some reds out of Blyxa. It's also the easiest thing in the world to power with a $11 Meanwell APC-35-700 for 2x 56cm strips.


Yep i saw your build, hope those plants will grow fast so we can see the result. My tank is already grown up with some reds in it so i should be able to give a good before/after pic with thoses strips installed

Now all i have to do is to decide how many of these i want. 2 strips should be enough, but i'm tempted to go with 3 to be safe (4 sounds like a bad idea, but correct me if i'm wrong).
What about dimming ? Does a power source with dimming capabilities would work ? For instance the Meanwell IDLC-45-700 looks like a good fit (for 3x 560mm strips)
(3 strips + the IDLC-45-700 adds up to 52$, which would be perfect)

Thanks !


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

I can't find much about the Meanwell IDLC, but 38-64VDC at 700mA looks good. Though I'm curious, how do you wire it?
You'll also need to get a controller to dim


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Geoffrey2568 said:


> I can't find much about the Meanwell IDLC, but 38-64VDC at 700mA looks good. Though I'm curious, how do you wire it?
> You'll also need to get a controller to dim


That's a good question... i thought about it a lot but i am still unsure. I have basically 2 options :

Option A : 
- 4 x 560mm bridgelux EB strips
- 1 x MeanWell ODLC-65A-700 (dimmable, DC12V output)
- 1 x cheap manual PWM controller (or arduino UNO)

Option B : 
- 4 x 560mm bridgelux EB strips
- 2 x Meanwell APC-35-700 (or 1 x power supply, but i don't know what to look for : i don't know if the LDD-700 is the constant current regulator or if the power supply should be)
- 2 x Meanwell LDD-700L/H
- 1 x cheap manual PWM controller (or arduino UNO)

Is there and advantage of using drivers like the LDD-700H rather than a DIM capable power source ? (my guess is the driver allow to have one PS, so multiple channels if needed)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

0~10VDC and 10V PWM
vs 5V PWM....

Depends more on choice of controller than anything else..

Also w/ "add-ons" ie repeatedly buying an AC/DC converter when a simple LDD would do..

Power supplies (AC/DC part) will usually fail first over any of the other parts..
Longevity of LDD's is "apparently" quite long...Power supplies.. not so much.
It's a personal choice..


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Thanks for your input, so if i want to use an arduino uno as controller going with LDD drivers makes more sense (for 5V pWM)
I think 0-5V PWM can go from 0% to 100%, when the 0-10V PWM can only go from like 20% (i'm not sure about that), wich would be great when adding sunset/sunrise effect.

So, not to make mistakes :
LDD-700H as rated for 36.4w each so need 2, and input voltage should be between 9/56V
4 strips = 54.4W total, so a 60W unit should be good (54.4 +/- 10%), no matter the voltage ? (12/24/48V...)

My new cart :
- 4 x 560mm bridgelux EB strips
- 1 x Meanwell IRM-60-12 (60w, 12v/5A)
- 2 x Meanwell LDD-700H
- Arduino uno

Sounds good ?
Thanks again


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Pretty sure the ODLC will dim to zero..but yes 5V PWM makes more sense w/ Aduino.. Saves a "complication".. Can be done, just needs some more "parts"..
You need to understand that LDD's are just voltage regulators mostly. and you "lose" 2-3V in translation..
12V power supply is "only" 9-10V out max....

This is not a complication for "all in one" drivers..

V(f)for those strips is 19.6V @700mA..

24V power supply is minimum.
1 LDD per strip
unless you put 2 in series.. then you need a 2x 19.6V power supply..(48) THEN you can run 2 strips off one LDD

Amp capacity.. just add LDD's up.. simple, inaccurate but simple..


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

I'm starting to understand better thanks !
So if i go with 2 LDD powering 2 strips each, considering the losses/approximation would a 60W/48V PS be enough or should i go with a 75W one ? (MeanWell LPV-60-48 vs Meanwell RS-75-48)

And for curiosity/better understanding : what if i go with a 60W/48V PS and 2 LDD but want to power only 3 strips (so 1 LDD will be connected to only 1 strip) who would take the excessive power : the LDD or the strip ? (my guess is the strip, as the LDD would send the voltage it reads)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Vinns said:


> I'm starting to understand better thanks !
> So if i go with 2 LDD powering 2 strips each, considering the losses/approximation would a 60W/48V PS be enough or should i go with a 75W one ? (MeanWell LPV-60-48 vs Meanwell RS-75-48)


2 in series (not parallel) will need approx 42V.. but diodes only "see" 39.2V. 
2 in series x 2 rows @ 700mA 55W Best to always add 10%..60W ps @ 48V roughly

4 LDDs would be 13.7W (19.6x .7) x 4 = 55W total



Vinns said:


> And for curiosity/better understanding : what if i go with a 60W/48V PS and 2 LDD but want to power only 3 strips (so 1 LDD will be connected to only 1 strip) who would take the excessive power : the LDD or the strip ? (my guess is the strip, as the LDD would send the voltage it reads)


Doesn't matter... the LDD is a voltage regulator and efficient..will just change ps voltage.
differrnce between switching voltage regulators and linear.. Doesn't need to "absorb" losses. 

LDD sends the voltage it needs to maintain current at set point.. 

voltage adds in series,
Current is divided by parallel..

suggest overpowering the PS in case one wants to add strips.....
24 or 48V..

Relatively cheap enough, don't worry about "waste" it's really minimal for modern switching power supplies..
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/n...gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CM7Bss7ardoCFcYHPwodpagNcg

Use more meanwell LDD's save on power supply.. Gets to be a wash in most cases..
https://www.ledsupply.com/enclosed-power-supplies

In this case, some saving
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/open-frame-power-supply-24vdc-4.5amp
$15 and can run 6 LDD's at $7 each approx.
$15 plus 4x7 = 28 =$43

$34.00 (100W 48V) + $14 = $48


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Thanks again for taking the time to explain it further, it makes a lot more sense

I'm going with 2 LDD (each driving 2 strips in series) which makes more sense to me (cost + design)
I think 4 strips should be plenty enough for a 25g (almost 10k lumens), but i will follow your advice and go with a 100W PS (RS-100-48) to add a little room if want to add some strips/colors in the future

Cart :
1x Meanwell RS-100-48
2x Meanwell LDD-700H
4 x 560mm 5700k bridgelux EB strips

That should be good


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## SpringHalo (Oct 13, 2017)

Vinns said:


> Thanks again for taking the time to explain it further, it makes a lot more sense
> 
> I'm going with 2 LDD (each driving 2 strips in series) which makes more sense to me (cost + design)
> I think 4 strips should be plenty enough for a 25g (almost 10k lumens), but i will follow your advice and go with a 100W PS (RS-100-48) to add a little room if want to add some strips/colors in the future
> ...


Do you have plans for a heatsink and a dimming controller? I think a makersheatsink slim would work well with your power output and give you room for auxillary LEDs if you are ever so inclined. For controllers there still seem to be few inexpensive options, but I've had good luck with my TC-420, and I think @jeffkrol vouches for the TC-421 wifi version, though it needs slight modifications to control LDD drivers.

Instead of getting 4 identical strips of 5700k, I would suggest getting 2 strips of 3000k or 3500k next to the 2 5700k so you can choose to vary the color temperature depending on the time of day, for instance 5700k at noon or afternoon, slowly changing to 3500k at night. Combining the two at 50% power will give you ~4500k like natural sunlight. If you really like the 5700k look, even two strips running at 100% 700mA will give you more than enough light.

A few DIY tips:
Make sure you're getting the wired version of the LDD modules. They're $1 more than the pin-style but better for your purposes. 
Those power supplies don't come with power plugs so you'll have to make one from a PC power cable. 
To eliminate most soldering you can use 3-terminal "wago lever nut" connectors to connect everything.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Good advice and an example of the "devil is in the details" 


> I think @jeffkrol vouches for the TC-421 wifi version


Err I mention it, wouldn't say vouch for it..  Mentioned it was available and same mod can be done probably.

Unless you buy an LDD board to plug the "pinned" LDD's in it is best to get the wired.. LDD-700HW.
IF You get a plug in driver board and do not use a controller you NEED one w/ the "usual" pull down resistor to be removable.
Otherwise they won't light..

https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4-driver-board/
Only jumper-ed board I know of..
https://www.rapidled.com/ldd-h-4-driver-board/

As tp sunrise/set.. another option is one more board/driver..
Can be short (single) and in-between the 2 rows 5600k..
Point is it's just for sunrise/set and won't run it full really.or necessarily close to full.


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

SpringHalo said:


> Do you have plans for a heatsink and a dimming controller? I think a makersheatsink slim would work well with your power output and give you room for auxillary LEDs if you are ever so inclined. For controllers there still seem to be few inexpensive options, but I've had good luck with my TC-420, and I think @*jeffkrol* vouches for the TC-421 wifi version, though it needs slight modifications to control LDD drivers.


Thanks for your advices
For the heatsink i will go with a basic aluminium profile, this is an old tank (with a plastic top) that i will change in the future for a rimless one so not going nuts on the design for now (and no need to with those strips, but i really see the advantage of the channeled heatsink when going with many sources)
Controller wise, i did look into the tc-420/21 and the "mosfet gate" mod to control LDD but i think it should be pretty fast to connect an arduino for basic dimming, and not too long for a sunset/sunrise effect (got a tiny rtc)



SpringHalo said:


> Instead of getting 4 identical strips of 5700k, I would suggest getting 2 strips of 3000k or 3500k next to the 2 5700k so you can choose to vary the color temperature depending on the time of day, for instance 5700k at noon or afternoon, slowly changing to 3500k at night. Combining the two at 50% power will give you ~4500k like natural sunlight. If you really like the 5700k look, even two strips running at 100% 700mA will give you more than enough light.


That sounds like a good idea indeed but i am afraid i am going to "really like the 5700k look" as you said so 2 hotter strips sounds a bit much in that optic. 1 will be enough, but that means 4 LDD... decisions decisions ! Well done for having me doubting again
Too bad there isn't a colder version of thoses strips, that would have been gold !



SpringHalo said:


> A few DIY tips:
> Make sure you're getting the wired version of the LDD modules. They're $1 more than the pin-style but better for your purposes.
> Those power supplies don't come with power plugs so you'll have to make one from a PC power cable.
> To eliminate most soldering you can use 3-terminal "wago lever nut" connectors to connect everything.


Great tip about the LDD, that would be the LDD-700HW then !
About the wiring, i got some braided cable sleeve and "superseal" connectors (rated for 14A so they should be ok)



jeffkrol said:


> Good advice and an example of the "devil is in the details"
> 
> Err I mention it, wouldn't say vouch for it..  Mentioned it was available and same mod can be done probably.
> 
> ...


Thoses board are not easily/cheaply available for me, so i'm going with the LDD-700HW
What is your input about SpringHalo's advice for going with 2x3500K + 2x5700K ?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Vinns said:


> Thoses board are not easily/cheaply available for me, so i'm going with the LDD-700HW
> What is your input about SpringHalo's advice for going with 2x3500K + 2x5700K ?


Standard setup.. but like I mentioned above, I'd prefer to "spend" your excess w/ a 5th board/driver for that. 
and go as low K as you can..
Going like 0-20%.........20%-0 at the beginning and end as you ramp in the 5600k later.
ramping up 5600k is not "sunrise" color.. just dimmer white..
adding red to high k whites makes pink not golden orange.

A string of 2500K 3w cheap Epistars (10/$1 or whatever ridiculous price they go for) works well too..
They are for mood or effect, not growing, though the added RED does help..
2:1 or 3:1 Ratio of cool white to warm white is sort of the go to combo for look, color and red.
totally opinion though.

w/ 2 3500k and 2 5700k sort of guessing you won't prefer the "look" w/ both at 100%. 
Could be wrong


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## SpringHalo (Oct 13, 2017)

Vinns said:


> Thanks for your advices
> 
> That sounds like a good idea indeed but i am afraid i am going to "really like the 5700k look" as you said so 2 hotter strips sounds a bit much in that optic. 1 will be enough, but that means 4 LDD... decisions decisions ! Well done for having me doubting again
> Too bad there isn't a colder version of thoses strips, that would have been gold !


You would use a 48V power supply and use two LDDs, one LDD driving two 5700k strips in series, the other LDD driving 2 3000k strips in series. 

If you're worried about not enough light with "only" two strips, you can make a quick comparison to the popular beamswork fspec fixtures. To get an idea of PAR levels, the beamswork 48" strip is rated at 5200 lumen and has a PAR of 44 at 20" depth (I'm assuming your 25g is 24x12x20). That would mean you get 44 PAR for a 24" long beamswork that's putting out 2600 lumen. Your strips are rated for 2500 lumens for each strip, so you would get double that: 88 PAR running just two of the strips. To put that into perspective, 50+ PAR is considered "high light" so you'll be more than adequate no matter what combination you run.

When making LED lights you can get into a "more power and more light is better" spiral, but for this rig you're probably going to run into algae issues if you run "just" 2 strips at more than 50% brightness.

The reason I like the 5700k and 3000k options are that my house is filled with 2700k incandescents, and when I'm around the house in the evenings, I don't want a super blue-looking tank; everything looks more natural at the lower temperature, and I still have the ability to "match the sun" during the day. A good note of comparison: 120W of lights run at 100% over a 75G is blinding. I have them comfortably running at just 15%, or 18 watts, on a tank 3x bigger than yours!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

There is that... 

Then again just use 2 strips in series and add a cheap row of 3W low K emitters.. 
saves $'s..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

You should also still be considering 2x EB 5700K strips connected to a meanwell apc and call it a day. On and off is all you need.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> You should also still be considering 2x EB 5700K strips connected to a meanwell apc and call it a day. On and off is all you need.


Personal opinion whats the point of solid state lighting if one doesn't use what it is best at????
Just stick w/ tubes.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Personal opinion whats the point of solid state lighting if one doesn't use what it is best at????
> Just stick w/ tubes.


Last I checked solid state lighting was designed to use less power than traditional tubes while putting out same amount of light. I didn't realize that all the commercial installations of LED in the world have ramping and dimming when they come on.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> Last I checked solid state lighting was designed to use less power than traditional tubes while putting out same amount of light. I didn't realize that all the commercial installations of LED in the world have ramping and dimming when they come on.


so add for our use...
Can't argue personal opinion. Built my fist light BECAUSE you can easily "control" them..and at a reasonable cost..

15 Advantages of LEDs When Compared To Traditional Lighting Solutions


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> so add for our use...
> Can't argue personal opinion. Built my fist light BECAUSE you can easily "control" them..and at a reasonable cost..
> 
> 15 Advantages of LEDs When Compared To Traditional Lighting Solutions


I don't get the point of the random links. Everyone knows that LEDs can dimmed and ramped easier than standard tubes and no one is arguing that. The point is that the main reason they exist is because they put out as much as light as traditional sources while using much less electricity. That statement is a fact and not personal opinion. You stating that if they are not used for ramping and dimming it's a waste is actual opinion and that's it.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> You stating that if they are not used for ramping and dimming it's a waste is actual opinion and that's it.


Yes though that was self explanatory..
some links are just for fun.. Remember fun?

WHY would "jeff" use LED's over any other light source..in rough order.
9
7
5
15
6
13
1
http://www.stouchlighting.com/blog/top-15-advantages-of-led-lighting

Add one more thing so we can end this.. you can have the last word.. HEAVENS I have it..


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

I am totally with you with the fact that i will probably be good with 2 strips and an APC-35, simple and cheap (35$).
But i know i will make it evolve/experiment (add dimming, sun effects etc...) so why not make it capable from the beginning

Tank is 25gal (16tall, 12deep, 32wide)
I understand that 4 strips at full power would be too much.
So i think i found an ideal option for me :
2x EB 5700k
1x EB 3500K (or 3000k, still debating)
3x LDD-700-HW
1x LRS-75-24

That cost 70$ (versus 90$ for 4 strips with 2 LDD), would ouptut 7000+LM if needed, could be dimmed and color temp could be adjusted from 3500k to 5700K.

Again, thanks a lot for your advices it's been really helpfull


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## SpringHalo (Oct 13, 2017)

Vinns said:


> I am totally with you with the fact that i will probably be good with 2 strips and an APC-35, simple and cheap (35$).
> But i know i will make it evolve/experiment (add dimming, sun effects etc...) so why not make it capable from the beginning
> 
> Tank is 25gal (16tall, 12deep, 32wide)
> ...


Looks good. Remember that 100% 3000k mixed with 10% 5700k will give you 110% 3500k. Keep us updated on progress!

To bring up the controller issue again, the reason to get a TC-420 or similar is to get accurate dimming throughout the day on a schedule. A regular arduino using its internal timer will have timing inaccuracies after a few days, while the others have an RTC clock to keep accurate time. A way to get around this is to use a regular wall timer and have the arduino powered with the timed outlet, so it resets every day and continues as usual.

Are you prepared to drill and tap (or drill through and use nylon washers and nuts) your heat sink? Or were you planning to use thermal epoxy for connecting the strips?


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

SpringHalo said:


> Looks good. Keep us updated on progress!
> 
> To bring up the controller issue again, the reason to get a TC-420 or similar is to get accurate dimming throughout the day on a schedule. A regular arduino using its internal timer will have timing inaccuracies after a few days, while the others have an RTC clock to keep accurate time. A way to get around this is to use a regular wall timer and have the arduino powered with the timed outlet, so it resets every day and continues as usual.
> 
> Are you prepared to drill and tap (or drill through and use nylon washers and nuts) your heat sink? Or were you planning to use thermal epoxy for connecting the strips?


Sure i will try to keep you guys updated in a new thread
About the controller issue, i plan to try with what i have : an arduino uno + a "tiny rtc" module wich should be accurate enough, but good tip about the wall timer 
About the heatsink, i think i will drill through because the thickness would'nt allow me to tap it (it's about 1/16 inch)


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Hey guys, some updates : I had time today to build my new light, i just finished a "beta" version tonight
It's working, and it's pretty amazing.... man are those strips powerfull ! I had pretty much the same amount of power before with cheap smds, but this is a night and day difference

I went with 1x3000k and 2x5700K. No dimming for now, but it's on the to-do list this weekend as the 3 combined is (obviously?) too much
I will upload some pictures then, it should be funny to see the before/after !


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Vinns said:


> Hey guys, some updates : I had time today to build my new light, i just finished a "beta" version tonight
> It's working, and it's pretty amazing.... man are those strips powerfull ! I had pretty much the same amount of power before with cheap smds, but this is a night and day difference
> 
> I went with 1x3000k and 2x5700K. No dimming for now, but it's on the to-do list this weekend as the 3 combined is (obviously?) too much
> I will upload some pictures then, it should be funny to see the before/after !


You using the 56cm strips? How much current are you pushing to each strip?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> You using the 56cm strips? How much current are you pushing to each strip?


if they stuck w/ the plan.. 700mA...


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> if they stuck w/ the plan.. 700mA...


Yikes. That's a whole lot of light then.


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

SpringHalo said:


> To eliminate most soldering you can use 3-terminal "wago lever nut" connectors to connect everything.


That was a great tip ! I did know about them but never get to use some, oh boy was i wrong those things are awesome



gus6464 said:


> Yikes. That's a whole lot of light then.


3x56cm strips, 700ma for each indeed. And yep that's basically having the sun right on top of the fish tank

Bbut plan was never to use them at full power that's why i went with 3 drivers, introducing the controller :

Board : arduino uno r3 clone (ATmega328P)
Display : for now a basic 16x2 lcd (1602a), displaying the time and the pwm % of each strip
Real time clock : TinyRTC (DS1307)

I found a great program wich seems to be popular on a french reef board (i don't know if it's ok to post the link), using an array of 96 pwm values per day and doing averages between, resulting in smooth variations.
Both the PS ground and the LDD Vin- are grounded to the arduino board (i will have to check if it's enough for components safety, i read about pull down resistors or diodes)

After some tweaking and tests, everything seems to be working great and i'm already so glad i went with this multichannel/dimming route !

I have some cleanup to do, and i did not have the time to really appreciate the variations, but first impressions :
- 5700k alone is a great light, good balance
- 3000k alone is nice for sunset/sunrise variations
- adding 3000K to the 5700k add some "crisp" and contrast to the colors
- again, thoses strips are really powerfull, i will likely be at 50% power at most (around 20w, amazing)

Not to mention it is addictive, i am already thinking about adding things (bigger lcd, manual control, temp probe, ph probe...), and making another one for my last fish tank (high tech 10gal)

Photos incoming after cleaning up a little


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

As promised, some pictures !

Please excuse the fact that i didn't do the tank maintenance for quite some time : I added some new plants recently, so i let them grow but i have now a lot of trimming and some replanting/rescaping to do (and because of that there isn't a good light penetration at the moment)

Old lights (around 40w of 8520smd) :









New lights :








(i ended up using rivnuts to secure the strips -so i don't have to drill through- which is not ideal because it creates a tiny gap, i may change this in the future or adding some thermal pads)









Tank with old light on :









Tank with new light on ([email protected]%, [email protected]%)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Beatles song keeps going through my head..

"Here comes the sun do de do da.........."


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## SpringHalo (Oct 13, 2017)

Vinns said:


> As promised, some pictures !
> New lights :
> 
> I ended up using rivnuts to secure the strips -so i don't have to drill through- which is not ideal because it creates a tiny gap, i may change this in the future or adding some thermal pads


You should focus on this issue. That gap is a huge problem and you really shouldn't be running the lights at any more than 5W apiece to avoid reducing the LED lifespan. If you want to keep the clean look of the strip you can use thermal epoxy, though that'll make the install permanent. The other less efficient option would be thermal foam pads, which should be more acceptable if you're running at low brightness. 

I'm glad the build worked out for you, and I hope you have fun customizing your controller.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

SpringHalo said:


> You should focus on this issue. That gap is a huge problem and you really shouldn't be running the lights at any more than 5W apiece to avoid reducing the LED lifespan. If you want to keep the clean look of the strip you can use thermal epoxy, though that'll make the install permanent. The other less efficient option would be thermal foam pads, which should be more acceptable if you're running at low brightness.
> 
> I'm glad the build worked out for you, and I hope you have fun customizing your controller.


There are thermal silicone which make it less than permanent..
"Heatsink Plaster" is one.
There are others..Cheap and in big tubes..
Tian Mu makes some:
Thermally Conductive Silicone Adhesive Glue - White - Free Shipping - DealExtreme


Also takes forever to get it since it is usually China direct..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

SpringHalo said:


> You should focus on this issue. That gap is a huge problem and you really shouldn't be running the lights at any more than 5W apiece to avoid reducing the LED lifespan. If you want to keep the clean look of the strip you can use thermal epoxy, though that'll make the install permanent. The other less efficient option would be thermal foam pads, which should be more acceptable if you're running at low brightness.
> 
> I'm glad the build worked out for you, and I hope you have fun customizing your controller.


EB strips are designed to not be used with a heatsink when running at 700ma for the 56cm strip.


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

As gus6464 said, those strips doesn't require a heatsink. I may record (log) some temp datas later (as there is 3 temp measurement points on each 56cm strip), but for reference someone did it with a FLIR :








That's a 3500K 560mm Bridgelux EB Gen 2 @700mA/19.26V, without any heatsink
(source: Bridgelux EB Gen 2 Thermals | Rollitup)

In my actual program, the most i am using is around 17w of power. They are barely warm to the touch !

I did some cleanup, and adjusted the program a little
Currently (max) at 2x [email protected]% + 1x [email protected]%


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

So, a little update : i'm designing a whole new controller/program for this tank (online monitoring, datalogging, failsafe etc...)
I'm currently designing the "color spectrum" part of the app, in wich there is 3 sliders (1 for each channel) to adjust PWM values wich are displayed as of a % equivalent


I would also like to add a "global rendered temp" value (ex: "5200K"), but cannot find a simple equation to do so


A quote from SpringHalo earlier on this post :


SpringHalo said:


> Remember that 100% 3000k mixed with 10% 5700k will give you 110% 3500k



Let's say my values are :
CH1: 60% (5700K)
CH2: 10% (3000K)
CH3: 50% (5700K)


> Is there a simple equation to do this ? All i can find are ones only Will Hunting could understand...


Thanks in advance


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Vinns said:


> So, a little update : i'm designing a whole new controller/program for this tank (online monitoring, datalogging, failsafe etc...)
> I'm currently designing the "color spectrum" part of the app, in wich there is 3 sliders (1 for each channel) to adjust PWM values wich are displayed as of a % equivalent
> 
> 
> ...


FOR A BALLPARK ESTIMATE
(5700 x 6) + (3000 x 1) + (5700 x 5) / 6+1+5
65700/12 = 5475

SPECTRA
Verify using CREE xte-


> Cree XT-E CoolWhite (7300K) [120°] x1
> Cree XT-E WarmWhite (2770K) [120°] x1
> ----------------------------------------
> 
> ...


7300 + 2770 /2 = 5035
Close


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Thanks again Jeff, you're the man !


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Vinns said:


> Thanks again Jeff, you're the man !


keep in mind that it implies general output similarity/drive currents..
like if one stips max current it 500ma and the other is 250ma..
or vastly different efficiencies..


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## Vinns (Mar 19, 2018)

Hi ! One year later it's time for an update

I finally upgraded my old/ugly 25g for a new (rimless) 50g. As i plan to redo the fixture to accomodate the new tank, i would also like to add some channels.
Note that I don't really need it (i only used half the power and colour/control is great), its more for fun/experimentations (i am also working on an app/controller so more options = more fun)

Plan is to add 1 channel to amp up the temp (so i can go >5600K), and 1 or 2 for more specific colors to experiment (colour rendition + plant growth/color)
Not sure about what would be the best option to have the best range possible but something like :

Channel 1&2 : Bridgelux EB 5600K
Channel 3 : Bridgelux EB 3000K
+
Channel 4 : blue (cyan/blue/royal)
Channel 5 : Green
+ (i don't think so but maybe)
Channel 6 : Cold white (~8000K) - Not sure if needed because of the blue channel)
Channel 7 : UV (could also be added to the blue channel)


I will probably go with Cree or Lumileds mounted on small (~10mm) copper pcb's
I generally order my electronics on arrow, but cannot find mounted ones or pcb options so i'm planning to order on aliexpress. Nothing to worry about ? (fake)

All advices are welcome 
Thanks


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

https://www.stevesleds.com/Luxeon-ES-6500K-COOL-WHITE-3-Watt-LEDs_p_184.html
this is a good K temp riser, though adding any blue will do the same thing..

Not as good as the "fresh fish" COB's or sunplus series (the wide beam angle is a bit difficult to work with) but a solid diode..
Not sure I'd bother too much w/ UV but violets are ok..from a photosynthesis/cost standpoint..
https://www.stevesleds.com/Hyper-Violet-V40_p_255.html

Not sure why one would add green esp w/ cyan. Cyan stars in quality are not so easy to find (well cheap).. Best bet is just evil bay Bridgelux.
https://www.luxeonstar.com/
"premium priced" stars and custom strips...

from a personal point of view, adding "plain blue" and cyan will eliminate the need for other types of whites..


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED UV (410nm) [120°] x1
> LED Blue (460nm) [120°] x1
> ...


channel breakdown really only depends on cost and control possibilities..


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