# What do you think Principles of Aquascaping are?



## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

*The Principles of (Landscape) Design*

*Balance* – The principle of balance refers to the “equality of visual attraction”, or equilibrium of materials used in the layout. 

*Focalization* – Focalization is principle of drawing a viewer's attention to one particular part of the design. 

*Transition *– Transition is the “flow” of a viewers gaze from one part of the design into another part. 

*Proportion* – The design’s proportion is how the size of each part "fits" with the rest of the design.

*Unity* – Unity is how well the design expresses an idea through a consistent application of materials.

*Rhythm* – The principle of rhythm is how well the layout creates a feeling of being a small part of something much larger. 

*Repetition *– Repetition is the creation of motion through a series of different materials.

*Simplicity* – Simplicity is the use of a limited number of materials to create a successful design. 

_These principles are based on landscaping design which I think relates as closely as possible to aquascaping._


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

you'll have to take a perspective and go with it it. There are other thoughts too like wabi-sabi 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wabi-sabi


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

I would like to apply the principles of design to aquascaping. Picking a specific perspective will give an idea about how the principles of design affect that particular discipline, but not aquascaping as a whole. For example iwagumi landscapes aren't really that dedicated to colors, focalization, etc. but are very heavy on line and simplicity. I want something more encompasing.


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## JDowns (Mar 6, 2008)

One rule and one rule only

*Please yourself* -Don't follow someone else's over-saturated, self-indulgent, set of guidelines. It may be a box, but it doesn't mean you have to be constrained to it. You can't please everyone all the time, so you might as well please yourself. After all this is suppose to be a hobby that you _enjoy_. Dare to be different and don't be afraid of failure. If you follow everyone else you just might fail yourself.

Just my honest 2¢.

10 people can look at a cloud and see 10 different things. All it takes is one to point out how it looks like a pig and argue their case, now everyone sees the pig. Now 9 things were lost to conformity.


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## three105 (Nov 15, 2007)

if you always follow those guidelines you'll never leave them and discover new ones...

but one of the most important aspects to planted tanks... at least I think... is knowing where the plants will grow... how they'll form as they mature... etc...


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## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

In order to break rules, you need to understand how they work first.

In re to Dryn: Iwagumi is extremely focused on color coordination and focalization, it's just more subtle than an abrupt color change (like green to red out of nowhere). For example, I've completely thrown out a plant in a layout that I've had because it's color wasn't cooperating with the color and composition of it's neighbor. And that's just with _shades of green_. Reds can be used, they just aren't as common.

The manipulation of focal points and how the stones are laid out in accordance with size, shape and location is even more important in Iwagumi since the entire impression of the layout rides on how it manipulates the emphasis of empty space, filled space, and the position and angles of the stone in relation to the layout as a whole.


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## EdTheEdge (Jan 25, 2007)

In my case I just usually put the plants where they grow best. I have noticed that certain plants grow better in different parts of the tank. I do like more of a Dutch style so this works well for me.


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## EdTheEdge (Jan 25, 2007)

Rules? There are no rules! Sheesh!


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## Church (Sep 14, 2004)

Rules are made to be broken. The ends justify the means. That's not just in _this_ art form, but in all forms of art. The principles are there as guidelines, or a starting point, but they are not rigid, and they will box you in fast if you subscribe to them as dogma.

I guarantee you that Da Vinci did NOT pull out a measuring tape and make markers on his canvas to decide where the phi ratio focal points would be. Not that there's anything wrong with doing it that way, I'm just trying to point out that the end result makes it look as if he _could_ have done it that way. The ends justify the means. (I like that saying-- I use it a lot in engineering, as well!)


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## JDowns (Mar 6, 2008)

One does not have to understand rules to break them. One has to have those rules taught first to be cognitive of them.

No man has the right to dictate what other men should perceive, create or produce, but all should be encouraged to reveal themselves, their perceptions and emotions, and to build confidence in the creative spirit. 
_Ansel Adams_


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## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

It's best to think of rules in this fashion: they aren't so much rules, as they are fundamentals (well aside from things like, matching stone types in an Iwagumi). You can be a creative genius naturally without having learned anything, but you would still improve upon your skills by knowing the fundamentals and refining your technique. 

In fact, I would go so far to say that the lack of fundamentals is exactly what creates the disparity between professional looking aquascapes and every-day run of the mill aquascapes. Innovation just ends up getting lost by poor overall design, which is a sad thing. Fundamentals don't box in the creative process, they expand the creative capacity for prowess.



> No man has the right to dictate what other men should perceive, create or produce, but all should be encouraged to reveal themselves, their perceptions and emotions, and to build confidence in the creative spirit.
> _Ansel Adams_


I agree, but encouraging someone to learn and get a firm grasp of fundamentals, or even going so far as to say it is a necessity, is in no way, shape or form dictating what they create or produce. It's merely a tool to refine their own vision, and even if you learn the fundamentals just to break them, you still end up breaking them in a more refined way.

There are however, some rules, that unequivocably cannot be broken - for example the second you put a piece of driftwood into your "iwagumi" layout, it no longer qualifies as an Iwagumi.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

wow. I cannot help but to agree with everything that has been said. Design is very much a matter of preference. However, design does follow a set of principles. Not rules exactly, but more like guidelines. I had the day off and I spent it in the library researching design: landscape, portraits, photo, flower arrangement, etc. and I've come to the conclusion that there are very much a set of guidelines that can be used by anyone - the novice or the guru genius - to create a layout that successfully appeals to a wide range of viewers. Not everyone will like everything you create and some people may be drawn to that tank that is innovative and unique. I'm not saying you _have_ to follow the guidelines, more like you should just keep in mind that they are there. I'm going to take the next two days to write a better article on aquascaping based on design principles. I hope to include some graphics to illustrate my ideas.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Dryn said:


> For example iwagumi landscapes aren't really that dedicated to colors, focalization, etc. but are very heavy on line and simplicity. I want something more encompasing.


Hmm... not sure I agree with this. Not dedicated to your rainbow colors maybe if comparing to a Dutch style, but in actuality, an Iwagumi is all about contrast of the light and dark, light and shade, proper arrangement of materials and certainly complimenting the plants with the hardscape. 

Saying its not dedicated to focalization is not really accuate either. It still follows the basic principles as any other scape would... you just simplify the plant list and focus more on the hardscape and grading of the substrate (to generalize the style...)

This may be a more subjective statement and not really a fundamental principle.


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## Church (Sep 14, 2004)

Are there 2 of these threads? Started by the same person? Just wondering, I'm seeing double.


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

Pleasing yourself is key. On my new rock scape, I planned to get advice on the board because I knew it wasn't perfect. I would rather do it myself than keep trying to make something perfect and end up marginally better than I started.

I think the main thing is different tanks will have different rules. A jungle tank can be anything you want it to be. Really no rules except there will usually be hardscape and more than a few varitey of plants. A dutch scape is supposed to be complex in design but may not look complex in the end. Color is more important (imo) than scale though a variety of plants with different leaf sizes should be used. Contrast is key. Lastly, in a natural style tank, your focus will be scale first and for most. The better you get this, the more convincing it is. The design is simple at face value. A few rocks and/or peices of driftwood and usually 2 or slightly more speices of plants. However, all this is very maticulous and highly planned.


For me, I would say the golden rule is pretty much all I try to follow. I will do my best to mimic what I have seen with my own twist. I think the artistic side is like any art. Don't try to perfect your first or second or 8th scape. Try to improve and just learn what you enjoy, get rid of anything you don't. Eventually, you will be more able to see what you really like and what you don't. 

I am on my 6th scape or so and still am in the "learning" mode. I will see things that arn't perfect and may or may not change them. If it means tearing down the tank to be happy, I wait until I know what I don't like. Knowing what you like is easy, getting rid of elements you don't like is where I would recommend on focusing on. Where does your tank lack sort of thing. Car designer Chip Foose has the saying "smack the ugly out of it" or something to that effect.


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## RiverOtter (Jan 25, 2009)

What I've found to be the most fascinating aspect of aquascaping is the malleability of pretty much _any_ design.

Meaning, specifically, that a scape you set out for in the first place more often than not becomes something quite different over time - substrate settles or is pushed around by the current; perhaps your fish decide to murder one of your plants; perhaps one of your plants ends up growing far faster than everything else, etc.

Over time, I'm sure the variables become a lot more predictable, but the real blessing about being a beginner at something like this is that your scape can change pretty much every time you do tank maintenance. And therefore, as you learn the principles of plant care, you also get the chance to learn what good design is.

The Golden Ratio isn't some magic number plucked from thin air. It's quite literally the structure of nature - and at the risk of sounding hokey, it exists in all of us. So when you fiddle around with placement, you're training yourself over time to find that ratio on its own, and you will. As Church said - Leonardo didn't have to measure to find the ratio, just like he didn't have to measure the distance of his subjects eyeballs to his chin, or any other such nonsense that you'll find in a 'drawing principles' book. It's a harmony that you'll eventually find for yourself.

That said, I apologize, because this doesn't really relate to your quest to find the core tenets of the art form, rather somewhat discourages you from looking for them in the first place. And I do think that it _is_ important to figure these things out.

If I could critique you article, or your quest to find these guidelines, I'd say that you're focusing a little too much on the theory and lacking a description of the application. Show us, or describe to us, the application of these 'rules'. Show us how Hadrian laid out his villa, or how Victorian gardens were planned out.

Finally, I think the most interesting 'rules' are those that stem from human interpretation. What makes a stunning landscape so sublime in comparison to a boring one? That's the cool stuff, I think. Again, I think it's mainly a 'learned' knowledge - Bob Ross didn't know where to plant his 'happy little trees' because he read it in a book - but there ARE known principles about why we like some things, and why we dislike others, and this is pretty neat information.

Blah blah blah, sorry for carrying on so long.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

well said but.....



RiverOtter said:


> The Golden Ratio isn't some magic number plucked from thin air. It's quite literally the structure of nature - and at the risk of sounding hokey, it exists in all of us.


to be more correct, it is a construct we made to find things that are beautiful to us.. Infinite Proportions exist in nature but we only find a face of a puppy cute vs a face of a moose for instance.


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## lotekfish (Nov 13, 2007)

As the OP is finding out, it's very hard to do a quick summary of design basics. Volumes and volumes of books have been written about theory, many brilliant works or art have been created by people who can't read.

That said, for anyone serious about design it is worth studying at least basic theory. The reason is most people can't explain why they like or dislike something and if you can't analyze why you like it, it will be very hard to create something you are happy with. Yes, some people are born with a natural gift, but everyone can improve their art through learning.

Knowing theories (notice the plural) does not confine you to the use of those theories, it allows you to pick and choose the ones that feel right to you, because you have to please yourself first. Eventually your "rules" will become second nature.

Good art requires practice.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

I have had more responses on this thread than any other. I've spent the last two days in the library researching design theories, principles, and composition. I have always heard that there are "rules" or guidelines to follow by I've never actually found any in our hobby. I ended up compiling a large amount of information that I've only just begun digesting. There are dozens and dozens of principles of design. There are even more elements. But not all of them apply to aqquascaping (for example the use of text). I ended up deciding on several "rules" of aquascaping based on contest critiques and "rules" (like keep healthy plants and follow Basic Techniques), and then defining four Basic Aquascaping Principles and four Basic Aquascaping Elements. I cross referenced them in a simple chart give a simple idea of how they apply to one another. Again, this is very, very basic and open to suggestion.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

...crap... Unfortunately, this computer (at work) won't read the file from my writing program... I will have to get it from home (which doesn't have the net)... 

Sorry, technical delay...


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## Frogmanx82 (Dec 8, 2009)

It would be helpful if we could apply these principles and critique some actual tanks. While I agree beauty is in the eye of the beholder, some tanks just need work and people don't know where to begin.

I'll post some shots of my tank and feel free to make suggestions.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

Feel free to post your tanks and I will help as I can. (assuming the pics show up on my computer - I've had that problem before).


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

My goal is to create a collection of basic layout techniques for novice aquascapers. Please feel free to comment or even add pictures of compositions you have created.

*Lines*

The definition of a line is basically the connection between two points. The line element of design refers to the lines found in a layout, be that the outline of plant groupings, driftwood, rocks, substrate, etc. I could go on all day about the principle, but on to the good stuff.

*Orientation*
The main direction that a line forms is called the orienation. For our purposes the orientation can be vertical, horizonta, or diagonal. The line doesn't have to be straight!

Vertical lines bring to mind power, confidance, and boldness. These lines are used to outline a point of interest or bring a sence of rhythm to a layout.

Horizontal lines bring a sense of peace and calmness to a layout. These lines are used to give the feeling of open space.

Diagonal lines give a layout movement. Diagonals make a piece seem like it is moving even if it is not. Diagonals make viewers excited and energetic.

*Thickness*

The thickness of a line also alters how it is perceived.

Thick lines are very imposing and dominating. A wide lines give greater contrast and emphasis. A few thick lines can offer great division within a design.

Thin lines can be calming and won't be overpowering (for lack of a better word). Thin lines blend into the layout well.

Lines with varying thickness shows movement and direction. A line that was thick at one end and thin at another would cause the viewer's eye to naturally speed up or slow down depending on which way it was traveling.

*Composition notes*

Lines used in an aquarium should be natural lines not arrow-straight lines which look unnatural.

Lines can be real - a line itself, or implied - a line made by two other forms (think two clumps of plants and the line they form between each other i.e. "streets" in Dutch style aquascaping).

Lines that vary in thickness and size can lead the viewer towards or away from something if used in sequence. For example a focal point with thick/short lines next to it and progressively thinner/taller lines will bring the focal point out to the viewer. A focal point with thin/short lines next to it and progressively thicker/taller lines will push the object further away. This is important because our tanks are three demensional and this can help to accentuate our perspective!

I will go further on the other elements when I get a chance. I apologize for the lack of pictures or graphics. I don't have a flickr account and I cannot create one at work.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

I'd like to know where you work. They let you get on the internet to surf the planted tank. That's a cool workplace. :biggrin:


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

They don't _let_ me per se. I just do it when there aren't any customer's around.


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## jclee (Jul 15, 2009)

Dryn's got the formal rules covered, so I'll jump in and say that my own personal rules put beauty on par with self sufficiency. I love beautiful tanks, but I've got a hectic life, and so I, personally, tend to prioritize designs and species that will largely sustain themselves without all too much regular effort on my part. Aside from the weekly water/filter change and daily feeding, I like to know that I can get caught up in my work schedule for a nice 6 month stretch without having to worry too much about clipping, scrubbing, or transplanting. (Yes, this does limit me to slow-growers, and at the end of that 6months, I've usually got a few days' work cut out for me.)

So, objective rules aside, there's my own, personal, subjective rule of thumb.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

Dryn said:


> Feel free to post your tanks and I will help as I can. (assuming the pics show up on my computer - I've had that problem before).


Since I am all for encouraging creativity and I do have a scapeless tank, I'll provide you my tank for an example. Feel free to be critical. roud:


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

As long as you volunteer... 

First, the basics are covered: your plants look healthy and your red plant is vibrantly colored indicating sufficient amounts of light and nutrients. However, age is definately a factor. The tank is really too young to give a good indication of overall health and would be dinged in a competition.

The layout has a good foundation, the principle of _focalization_ is followed, everything is relatively _balanced_ (in a 3:2 ratio), there is natural _transition_ through texture changes, and an overall soothing _feel_. However, there is not very a good perspective (granted there is a foreground and a background) but you need something to anchor the midground. A good thick plant, stone, or driftwood piece would work wonderfully. You could also have different textured plant (something coarse or large leaved - say anubias or a small sword/crypt).

The tank is really too young to say for certain, but you are definately on the right track as far as aquascaping technique goes. The important thing is - are you happy with it? If so, stick with it and see how it goes. Our designs are living pieces of art and need time to grow into their own.

Thank you very much for contributing.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

As far as lines go, you have predominantly vertical lines (as we all do) and two horizontal lines (one across the substrate and one across the back) that parallel the other tanks bringing unity and stability to the layout. 

Again, something to tie down the midground and some age will make it a very good aquascape. Just remember to keep up your trimming.

BTW your multicolor fish would also cause a point deduction because they bring an element of discord into the design, but I like them.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

I agree with the majority of what you are saying. Especially the lack of a midground. Everyone comments on this. Part of this issue is my stubborness to give up tank space for rock or driftwood. How would you convince someone like me that the scape would benefit from less plants and more hardscape?

I am confused on one thing, though. You commented on the tank being too young. Please elaborate for me. I am curious what makes you think this and what being young refers to. 

Excellent comments, though. You present it in a way that doesn't make a person feel inept, so you have that going for you. I would suggest your article would benefit in showing what is done wrong in a scape and what can be done to fix it. Like a before and after.


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## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

Sewing, what's meant by age is essentially that the tank isn't fully grown in yet, you can still see bare substrate that isn't intentionally meant to be shown (like sand beds). So regardless of the actual "age" of the tank, it still appears to be young.

In regards to using hardscape material: _A hardscape adds a point of contrast for the eye to better distinguish and emphasize plants._

You strike me as the kind of person who really enjoys their plants. An appropriately used hardscape works to add extra emphasis to the plants and vice versa. So they work as direct areas of interest in which directly bring to attention the texture, composition, color etc of the plant in direct contrast with the material being used as opposed in contrast with another green or red plant that has the side effect of watering down the details of the plants because they end up blending together.

_Bear in mind, before reading further that I follow the Minimalist Aquascaping Design Theory_

My synopsis of your aquascape is that overall there's too much noise. I've seen some pretty beautiful softscape only tanks, but even in those they were limited to only a few types of plants. You can make vast, vast improvements in your aquascape by reducing the sheer number of plants. Too many plant types has the effect of diluting the impact of the plants because there's too much different action going on at once and is cause for distraction. 

Where as on the other note, reducing plant types means that you add extra impact of the plants you choose to leave behind because they have less competition for attention. So overall reducing the number of plants is a pretty good all encompassing strategy. There aren't really any negatives. 

As far as the development of a more pronounced midground, again this could also be achieved by reducing the numbers of plants and either having the soil in a gradient (having one carpet and one stem as an example, can easily be achieved by having a slopped substrate and eliminates the need for an official "midground," the slope acts as the transition). Or it could be achieved by either adding a hardscape, or having a plant itself act as the midground.

However, the concept of a midground is pretty dated. You don't need a midground so much as you need to provide a method of transition from A to C, which isn't one and the same as a midground. This can be achieved by line work, color, hardscape, slope, a plant trimmed to a certain height (this one is my least favorite).


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

I agree with francis. Age refers more to a tank looking _finished_. A layout with bare spots and plants that aren't at a mature size are always dinged in competitions. Basically, how can you know if the tank keeper's skills are adequate if the plants aren't full sized? The actual age isn't important and I've seen tanks that looked mature the day they were planted (often cited as a critique of ADA layouts even though they are usually quite old). It is a good thing that the tank isn't mature because you are still tweeking the layout design. I would be put off if someone posted a complete tank and wanted advice since they had already finished their design and would be less open to critique.
As far as the midgound goes, you don't have to have hardscape items, just something that contrasts with the fore and midground to give the viewer some reference and keep it from looking two-dimensional.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

I do very much believe that perspective is important in our designs. So much so that I included it as a principle in my finished article (I will post it once I'm able to post pictures). Having a well defined foreground, midground, and background is key to perspective in our layouts. It doesn't have to be a hardscape item, but using hardscape is a good way to limit the number of different plants in a design. It is well documented that the human mind can only _comfortably_ comprehend about five (5) different forms in a design, so you really should limit yourself to around that many. You can do a few more because you can't see all of the tank at one time in real life (55s being 4ft), but keep in mind that this will always make people who view your tank in a photograph feel like it is a little bit too busy. Most prize-winning tanks follow this idea, but some are really successful using many, many plants - like Dutch tanks. However, these tanks are intended to be judged in person and in a good competition, they are judged in person.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

Very impressive, you two. I cannot really disagree with anything either of you said. I just find it intriguing that there is a method to aquascaping. Whereas I personally don't see myself being able to ever properly aquascape this tank, perhaps I will be able to at least give it more definition. I guess that is the problem with being too in love with plant textures, shapes and colors. You cannot collect a bunch of plants and expect to have a perfect tank. 

Maybe I should set up another tank and try to aquascape that one with just a few plants.


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## Robert H (Apr 3, 2003)

> In my case I just usually put the plants where they grow best. I have noticed that certain plants grow better in different parts of the tank. I do like more of a Dutch style so this works well for me.


Ok, but that is not aquascaping, and this is a discussion of aquascaping design principals. I always find these discussions amusing, because some people always make statements like this that seem to scoff at any concept of aquascaping as a serious skill or art in defense of their own apparent lack of artistic skill, while others take it way too seriously and over analize it.

It is also curious that most of the time none of the recognized, accomplished aquascapers, actual winners of aquascaping contests participate in discussions like this or go into long detail about design theorey that may or may not have any application in the aquarium. I may be wrong, but somehow I doubt if Jason Baliban or Luis Navarro or a dozen other aquascapers think much about thin lines or thick lines, or orientation, or a bunch of other words that sound nice. I doubt Amano does either.



> As far as the development of a more pronounced midground, again this could also be achieved by reducing the numbers of plants and either having the soil in a gradient (having one carpet and one stem as an example, can easily be achieved by having a slopped substrate and eliminates the need for an official "midground," the slope acts as the transition). Or it could be achieved by either adding a hardscape, or having a plant itself act as the midground.


Now I can relate to this because it is specific to practical application. I would like to hear more of this without it being drowned out by college, art school text book design diatribe. I do not mean to be overly critical here, and there is nothing personal about it. Just my opinion.

There are basic principals of composition. Balance, color, contrast, depth of field. That is all someone needs an understanding of to create a design that is pleasing to look at along with their own imagination as how to interpret and apply those principals.

Now if I were to express my own opinion about Iwagumi, it would be that quite a lot of it is boring as hell to look at. Many people talk about Iwagumi, but there are not that many Iwagumi photos on the net, and even fewer really good, interesting looking ones. The best ones include very fine detail work that looks natural but very unique and takes the overall appearance of the aquascape to a whole different level. There is nothing exciting about a carpet of plants with three rocks.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

Just to update... I have been seriously studying and _overanalyzing_ this topic for reasons of my own - I find it fascinating and that is part of this hobby for me - and I've nearly finished my article on this. I will have some pictures to include and a more concrete idea based on what I've researched. 

Just FYI I have amassed over 300 magazine articles, books, and online articles as well as having discussed this with other hobbyists and experienced aquascapers and judges for anyone who wants to check my sources I will include some of the more definitive sources.


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## Dryn (Jan 22, 2009)

Does anyone have any pictures that they would like to contribute?


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## stormy (Sep 3, 2008)

this is a very nice and interesting thread! 
i learn something!! 

i wouldn't say there are "rules" or "principles" that we must follow, but there are 'guides' which can help to make our layout more pleasing!

but as someone already mentioned, it is our tank, so follow our heart and do whatever pleases us!


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## rushr (Jan 11, 2010)

This thread makes me think of a program I saw on beauty...found it!(http://videos.howstuffworks.com/hsw/19827-patterns-symmetry-and-beauty-video.htm) 

The program starts off with the thought that "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" but goes on to explore why all of us find beauty in similar things. It's kind of corny. It points out though that symmetry and patterns (and the mathematics behind it) have a large role in determining what we deem beautiful.

Recreating patterns and symmetry without a scape looking artificial is the goal I think then. Each person then creates the symmetry and patterns in their tanks to their own standard of beauty. Though I have a clay pot in my tank so I should probably just shut ma mouf


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## wendyjo (Feb 20, 2009)

My rules are 1) please myself and 2) keep it easy to maintain. I just have one planted that I set up about 3 years ago. I had no idea what I was doing (was my first tank over 5 gallons) and just planted stuff where-ever. It worked out pretty well. Of course I add or remove things now and then, do an occasional trim, but overall it's a wonderful underwater jungle and I find the riot of plants to be soothing.

I don't use c02, I don't use ferts, and I have low-medium lighting. Sure there are plants I'd like to grow that I can't, but that's OK. I'd like to have an exotic parrot such as a cockatoo as well, but I know I can't take care of it properly so I don't have one  Such is life. 

If I ever do another I may do more research beforehand, and since I now have got a bit of experience with planted tanks I'm sure I'll understand what I'm reading much more than had I done research the first time around. 

But I still think the key is maintenance. Doesn't matter how good it looks now if you can't maintain it.


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