# Newish fifty five gallon, what am I doing wrong? (pic and detail heavy)



## thewesterngate (Jan 22, 2010)

Beautiful FTS, at least there you can't see the algae.  Otos did a wonderful job on my wood fungus, they love to munch on it!


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## Beeps (Jan 5, 2010)

I had that on my plants (tank set up around the same time). For me it was having consistant co2 and adding water column fertilizers that did it in. My plants were shriveling before I did this, had fuzz and even a little bba. Once everything got established and growing the fuzz was just gone one day. Now I look at the leaves and dose as needed and there is almost no algae in there. I do use Ro/DI water though so this stuff is clean with only the added minerals that I put back in.


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## HypnoticAquatic (Feb 17, 2010)

well ur shimp will be gone and possibly ur tetras. if u get a pair then half your tank or more will be off limits to everything. i was breeding these and getting a clutch every 3 weeks. two males will become one male one dead. there very stunning when breeding!! wish i still had mine. cichlids and shrimp never turn out good for the shrimp. even mirco cichlids will eat those shrimp. if u got any ? just pm me


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## Matthew Gabrielse (Jan 23, 2010)

Thank for the compliment WesternGate.

So if I just keep dosing it should eventually just fade away as the plants become stronger and healthier? Is there a risk of the fuzz stealing too much light and nutrients from my Anubias, thus killing them? Is there anything I can do to help speed up the process short of adding Co2? I want to stay low tech but I want to be sure that this algae isn't going to cause harm to my plants, not to mention that it's unsightly.

I know the shrimp will become snacks for the firemouths, I'm okay with that. I just put the shrimp in to add a little more interest for the time being. I've heard plenty of success with firemouths and larger tetras but if need be, I can remove the tetras. I've done a lot of research on firemouths and am at the point where I just need to add them and see what happens. I plan to form a pair in a seperate tank with six or eight juveniles, then just add the pair and give the extra firemouths back.

My focus is just to get a stronghold on the assorted algaes and get my plants healthier.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

You are lacking any nutrients for your plants. You need something... likely, too much light in conjunction with too little co2 and ferts is what is making the algae get hold.


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## tyler79durdan (Jan 23, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> You are lacking any nutrients for your plants. You need something... likely, too much light in conjunction with too little co2 and ferts is what is making the algae get hold.


Well O_S, we finally agree on something because Thats EXACTLY what I was thinking when I saw the pics. Too much Light, not enough balanced CO2/ferts. So plus one to you O_S:thumbsup:


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## Matthew Gabrielse (Jan 23, 2010)

How much should I cut back my lighting to? Seven hours? Six hours? Less?
Should I increase my dosing to every day? Should I invest in something different than Seachem Flourish?

My twenty gallon was always extremely easy to care for but it's pretty low light. I'm new to this higher light low tech planted tank thing and any advice or recommendations would be much appreciated.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

What lighting are you running over the tank?

I'd dose some Excel to kill the algae. And put some root tabs under the swords.


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## Dr. GreenThumb (Mar 17, 2010)

I know this is low tech forum, but it is so worth to drop the extra cash on a CO2 system. Through ebay i put together one for my 55 gal for $150, including a year of co2 exchange. It works awesome my plants are so healthy im triming once a week. my red lotus is amazing.


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## Matthew Gabrielse (Jan 23, 2010)

I feel like the flourite under the substrate should provide enough nutrients to negate the use of root tabs. 

My issue with Co2 isn't a price issue, it's a maintenence and complication issue. I really don't want to add more equipment to my tank and I don't want to be trimming on a weekly basis. 

I cut my lighting back to six hours straight, no staggering. I'll get some excel and dose that on the algae and occasionally thereafter. Hopefully this helps, any other suggestions?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Matthew Gabrielse said:


> I feel like the flourite under the substrate should provide enough nutrients to negate the use of root tabs.


Flourite only contains some trace and has a good CEC. Heavy root feeders like swords and crypts would still benefit from root tabs, especially those that contain some macros.

I have Flourite in most of my own tanks, and can always see improvements in my rooted plants when I give them tabs.


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## Tamelesstgr (Jan 11, 2008)

What about water changes? My Java gets brown spots too, but the leaves with plantlets will eventually die off in my experience.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2010)

Matthew Gabrielse said:


> I feel like the flourite under the substrate should provide enough nutrients to negate the use of root tabs.
> 
> My issue with Co2 isn't a price issue, it's a maintenence and complication issue. I really don't want to add more equipment to my tank and I don't want to be trimming on a weekly basis.
> 
> I cut my lighting back to six hours straight, no staggering. I'll get some excel and dose that on the algae and occasionally thereafter. Hopefully this helps, any other suggestions?


Root tabs can only help heavy root feeders. I have flourite in my tanks and I add root tabs every month or so. Staggering your light can't hurt in fact it can help. The plants will fair better with the staggering than the algae will.


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## wkndracer (Mar 14, 2009)

*Nutrient rich Flourite?????*



Matthew Gabrielse said:


> I feel like the flourite under the substrate should provide enough nutrients to negate the use of root tabs.


While CEC is good why Seachem leads people to believe it is a 'rich' substrate is beyond me. I use Flourite in all my tanks (including the natural 55g as the cap material) I like the look and size of the grain for rooted plants. While I use it I feel like Seachem is a bit deceptive in they're promotion. They even state that Flourite is a fired clay product. It's mostly inert and well rinsed I've had no issues with turbidity. 
My belly button must be showing as my opinion is plain to see. Flourite is more or less finely crushed brick. (but I luv it







)


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## Matthew Gabrielse (Jan 23, 2010)

Well, I've added root tabs and cut back my lighting to six hours. I've cleaned off as much algae as I possibly could. I'm hopeful that I''ll start seeing the remaining algae retreat in the coming weeks.

I went to Petsmart and couldn't find Excel, is that the name of the product? Is it safe for my shrimp? While I understand that the shrimp won't live long with Firemouth,s they'll at least be food, I don't want a chemical leaving rotting shrimp carcasses in all my tanks crevices.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Yes, Seachem's Excel is safe for shrimp as long as you follow the dosage instructions. The bottle is green and white, like all the rest of their liquid fert line.

IME Petsmart is hit and miss with carrying it. I usually get mine online from www.BigAlsOnline.com or www.DoctorsFosterSmith.com.


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