# 150G Rimless Starphire Display Design with Overflow- Sump Filtration and External CO2



## tcampbell (Jun 8, 2006)

Hi, this is exactly how I am designing tank. I am working on the stand now and how to place it in my home. My dimensions will be 1 foot shorter though at 120cmX60X60. I see no problems with your design, though in my case I have split the return in the tank into two parts, with the emergncy and main drain both at the center of the overflow box and the returns at the sides (where your emergency and main drains are located). I feel this will allow me to direct the flow better than just one return. I see no practical reason to use a canister over a sump, and with the cheap cost of Co2 just increase the bubble rate. Plus it has been shown that more co2 loss from the tank surface then from a properly designer overflow with a light drop. As long at the water level in the overflow is maintained close to the level of the water in the main tank, the drop will not cause Co2 loss and with the water entering the sump under the water surface that will prevent it as well.
Look forward to seeing your tank completed. I am working on mine here in Taiwan where tanks are easy to come by and cheap but stands are poorly designed so DIY in a small apartment can be rather messy but worth it. I just wish I had a yard to work in (livingroom not the best place to be cutting wood, sanding and painting!)


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## tcampbell (Jun 8, 2006)

I can't believe no one responded to this post! It is a fantastic design and great planning. How is your project going?


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## odie (Dec 29, 2009)

Very cool!! I am also building my first planted tank sump. I can build a reef sump but lost on the planted!!http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/general-planted-tank-discussion/99205-using-sumps-large-tanks.html

My only issue I see is when you mentioned using a valve to restrict the the flow from the drains to the sump. I always thought you were to restrict on the return side so you dont run your pump dry.


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## WhiskeyD (May 10, 2009)

Any updates? In the next week I'm going to turn a 55 or 75 gallon tank into a sump for my new 180 gallon. I'm going to build a sump similar to yours and would appreciate any tips/ideas you have after building yours. Thanks


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I feel as if the T that splits water into the reactors and into the return line won't work as you imagined. most of the water will just flow into the line that goes directly into the tank, and bypass the reactors completely. Fluids flow in the direction of least resistance.

otherwise, this is awesome. I love the initial set up parts of a tank, and once everything is complete, i get bored and want to start on my next tank.


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## jmhart (Mar 14, 2008)

IWANNAGOFAST said:


> I feel as if the T that splits water into the reactors and into the return line won't work as you imagined. most of the water will just flow into the line that goes directly into the tank, and bypass the reactors completely. Fluids flow in the direction of least resistance.


Yep, this is the one big problem I see in the design. If you want to be able to bypass the co2 reactors, throw a ball valve in there, but you definitely need a way to force water down into them. I see the red indicator (I assume) where ball valves will go, but I don't see one that forces water into the co2 reactors.


Also? Why the two co2 reactors? I understand for greater diffusion, but if you only have one point of return into the tank, you really don't need to. Most people with large tanks that use two do so in addition to having multiple points of return so that there is better dispersion throughout the tank. With only one point of return, I'd drop down to just a single reactor.


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## One2Chat (May 6, 2010)

*Planted Tank Sump Design and Layout By flymo*

Flymo,

Great design and layout. Thanks for sharing.

Some comments and questions.

a. Using the ball valve to control the outflow may lead to flooding in the tank unless the pump can also be controlled to provided only the required amount of water for the return.

b. To reduce the distance the water will fall when coming into the overflow (to reduce CO2 loss), why not having the main drain pipe a few inches below the height of the overflow?

c. The return head is on the same side of the overflow. The water flow from the return may not reach the other end of the tank. Why not extending the return piping near the top of the tank or above the base of the tank to the other end of the tank (depending on whether you prefer to have the return flow from top or bottom of tank). This will have the return water flow from one end to the other end of the tank to the overflow.

d. What about the electric wires for the lighting at the top of the tank? Why not split the overflow area in to two section (wet and dry - half/half or 3 qtr/ 1 qtr). The wet section for the overflow with the current height and the dry section with the same height as the tank for concealing the electric wires for the lighting. The return piping can be on either side. The dry section can also be used for concealing the air bubble tubes (need some designing) for used when to light is off to provide oxygen to plants and fishes. 

e. There are too many ball valves which will add much to the costs. Some are nice to have.

f. Are the CO2 reactors custom made, any design to share, or ready item in the market, where to buy?

g. For the filtration materials, why not using plastic netting to hold the materials which are much easier to take out for cleaning than the a tank in a limited space area?


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## catchandrelease (Feb 12, 2010)

Plan looks good to me, for the overflow use a gate valve, ball valves will not provide the adjustment you need to properly run a herbie style overflow. The herbie i run on my reef keeps the water level just above the overflow level so there would be no fall, the emergency is then just above that to ensure no flooding if my valve is too closed. for your return look up loc-line, it may give you some ideas.
If this were my tank I would run a cheap pump from the mech section of your sump to the CO2 reactor that pumps right back into the same section.

Remember that all evaporation ends up coming from the return section of your sump. I use a cheap home depot float valve with a reservoir (rubbermaid) filled with RO water to keep mine topped up.

Lets see some updates ()


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