# purigen killed my fish.



## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

well, i had purigen in my 10 gallon tank for a little, and had to regen it. i did it exactly to the instructions on the seachem website. i even did the acid buffer step. put it back in my tank and the next morning 3/4 of my fish were dead! any ideas out there? i took out the bag, and really rinsed it well and put it back into the tank. (i used prime)


----------



## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Bleach:water mix, rinse, dechlor, and acid buffer step, huh?

Did you agitate the bag of Purigen when you rinsed it and while it was soaking in the dechlorinator?


----------



## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

an obvious misstep in the regen. process...I wouldn't let my purigen soak for anything less than 24 hours...don't beat yourself up, though, we all make mistakes. Purigen's a good product, so don't let it deter you from using it in the future...


----------



## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

yes i did agitate the bag i little. swished it around every now and then. i have tossed the bag out that i used. i'll prob wait a week with the zorb in the tank and do the weekly water change before i get more fish then jump on the horse again. i still have some purigen in my 5.5g so i will see how that goes in a a few months.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I have better results when I let everything go for longer; each step I leave for more than 24 hours. My Purigen gets visibly cleaner and there's no smell when I go to stick it back into the tank (doesn't smell like bleach, Prime, or vinegar).


----------



## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

Good point, LL - I've had it recharge some purigen (I left a bag out in the rain one night) for 3 days before all the "brown" was out...then I did a long prime soak, and voila! No problems to speak of...


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

It usually takes me a week or so to regen my Purigen. Not because it has to but because it takes that long for me to beable to have tome to throw it back in my cannister! It also just happens to be the dechlor step that sits for the longest.

I also use it in all my shrimp tanks with no ill effects.

Bleach killed your fish.


----------



## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

you might be right. how much water do you soak it in? i was using a 4 cup chinese food container...


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Sticky230 said:


> you might be right. how much water do you soak it in? i was using a 4 cup chinese food container...


That should have been enough water. I usually just use a water glass and set it on my counter top. The issue might not have been the water but how much dechlor you used. Also did you use Prime or some other product?


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> you might be right. how much water do you soak it in? i was using a 4 cup chinese food container...


Hey I use exactly the same thing- I love those things!  

I leave mine on the kitchen bar, and I give the bag a little shake every time I walk by, just to move around the Purigen and make sure it all gets exposed.

I agree with bsmith that the bleach was the most likely issue.

If you used a dechlor with amine-containing stress coat product this interferes with the regen process, so I only use Prime.


----------



## frozenbarb (Dec 16, 2006)

Did you make sure that all the bleach smell was gone?


----------



## NyteBlade (Aug 19, 2006)

I think I'm going to buy 2 or 3 Seachem's The Bag and just fill them all up with Purigen, maybe somehow use different color tie wraps to keep track of how many times they've been recharged. That way, I can just alternate between them in my tanks instead of having waiting for them to be recharged - that way I always have a fresh one ready to go.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

That's a good idea, except I don't think you should worry about how often you've charged each of them.


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

Why are you all using this stuff?:icon_eek:


----------



## NyteBlade (Aug 19, 2006)

lauraleellbp said:


> That's a good idea, except I don't think you should worry about how often you've charged each of them.


Isn't Purigen only good for 4-5 charges? I thought after that amount of time it just lost it's ability to absorb anything. Or does it just become permanetly brown or something? :icon_eek:



waterfaller1 said:


> Why are you all using this stuff?:icon_eek:


I use it because it's an awesome water polisher - pretty much as effective as a diatom filter in my experience, and it's a lot better then activated carbon for planted tanks.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

NyteBlade said:


> Isn't Purigen only good for 4-5 charges? I thought after that amount of time it just lost it's ability to absorb anything. Or does it just become permanetly brown or something? :icon_eek:


Nope, pretty much indefinitely. Seachem originally said it's good approximately 8 recharges, but recently they've said things like "there's no set limit, it depends on the water conditions in each tank." So really, it depends on what all it's absorbing. If you're just using it to absorb organics, then you can recharge it indefinitely. 



> I use it because it's an awesome water polisher - pretty much as effective as a diatom filter in my experience, and it's a lot better then activated carbon for planted tanks.


Ditto. Carole- my water is usually yellow b/c of all the sulphur in my well water- I tested, and Purigen absorbs this stuff too- my 90gal is now CRYSTAL clear! :thumbsup:


----------



## NyteBlade (Aug 19, 2006)

lauraleellbp said:


> Nope, pretty much indefinitely. Seachem originally said it's good approximately 8 recharges, but recently they've said things like "there's no set limit, it depends on the water conditions in each tank." So really, it depends on what all it's absorbing. If you're just using it to absorb organics, then you can recharge it indefinitely.


Wow, that's good to know. I guess there's no way to know when your purigen is dead unless it won't turn white again, eh? Atleast I don't have to throw the stuff out every 4-5 recharges anymore.


----------



## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Here is what I do. I regen it in a 1:10 bleach solution, more than necessary, but it works. Then, I take it and run it under tap water for about 2 min. Then I put it in a 4 cup solution of water and 1 CAP of prime. Way more than needed, but again, it works well. I let it soak for 24 hours, then, rinse again, and rinse the dish. Then repeat the prime step with 1/2 CAP of prime for 24 hours. 

I have done the same as you, and it is frequently the presence of bleach in the purigen still that is the issue.

Another tip I've seen, add an airstone to the dish during this time, will help keep the purigen agitated(put under purigen bag) and also helps gas off chlorine.


----------



## DaveS (Mar 2, 2008)

waterfaller1 said:


> Why are you all using this stuff?:icon_eek:


That was kind of my thought as well. If you have a problem with your water not being clear perhaps you should address the root cause. I know one thing for darned sure. If I killed my fish with it, I would either stop recharging it or better yet just do without. The amount of work going into recharging this stuff could easily be spent on an extra water change ....

Alright ... if like Laura you have crappy water I guess I can see it maybe ... lol.

Dave


----------



## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

It's great stuff. It's not because there's anything wrong with the tanks that the water isn't clear. It's micro-particles floating around...mostly organics. ie: plant debris, fish poop, things like that. Addressing the root cause of that would land me with a glass box filled with water. 

I think we're all unanimous in our opinions that there was a problem in the dechloration step of the recharge process. Nothing inherently wrong with the product itself. A "user error" was the cause of the problem in this case. Don't worry OP, we've all been there.


----------



## DaveS (Mar 2, 2008)

I guess .. but I just put my eyeballs right up to the glass and I'll be darned if I see micro poop floating around .. lol. I remember testing a car cigarette lighter with my finger once. That was user error too, but it doesn't mean I plan on trying it again.

Dave


----------



## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

DaveS said:


> I guess .. but I just put my eyeballs right up to the glass and I'll be darned if I see micro poop floating around .. lol. I remember testing a car cigarette lighter with my finger once. That was user error too, but it doesn't mean I plan on trying it again.
> 
> Dave


Then in your case, you won't need to use Purigen. 

You have a point, but what did you have to gain from testing a cigarette lighter with your finger? Was it worth the pain?

It could be worth it to the OP to use Purigen again, but this time, pay attention to the re-charge process a little bit closer. 

To each his (or her) own.


----------



## DaveS (Mar 2, 2008)

epicfish said:


> Then in your case, you won't need to use Purigen.
> 
> You have a point, but what did you have to gain from testing a cigarette lighter with your finger? Was it worth the pain?
> 
> It could be worth it to the OP to use Purigen again, but this time, pay attention to the re-charge process a little bit closer.


lmao, well I can't honestly answer why I did it. I guess because it was there and I didn't have anything better to do with my finger at that moment. I just remember my brother sitting next to me and saying quite clearly "That was brilliant". 

You all have me intrigued now about this stuff. Maybe I will give it a shot one of these days to see what I am missing.

Dave


----------



## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Hey I use exactly the same thing- I love those things!
> 
> I leave mine on the kitchen bar, and I give the bag a little shake every time I walk by, just to move around the Purigen and make sure it all gets exposed.
> 
> ...


i did everything exactly to the instructions on the website. i used 2 tbsp per cup of prime.


----------



## kittytango (May 7, 2008)

What is purigen?? and does it take out stuff you'd want in a planted tank like Chemipure?


----------



## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

it sis not supposed to take out trace elements. i am not a chemist so i do not know if it does or not.... but here is the link...

http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Purigen.html


----------



## kittytango (May 7, 2008)

Thanks! I could use something to help lower my nitrates. Ever since I removed the Hornwort the Nitrates have gone up and a long with them came the algae!


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Purigen will absorb organic nitrAtes, not (typically) non-organic ferts.

I see its function like that of carbon; it absorbs impurities and excess nutrients, and does a great job polishing water. Will strip water of tannins in a matter of days (so don't use it if you're going for a blackwater tank). Nice thing about Purigen (unlike carbon) is that it can be regenerated.


----------



## kittytango (May 7, 2008)

so it will remove nitrates from fish and snail waste???


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Yes. It will absorb ammonia, nitrItes and nitrAtes.


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Buy it, put it in your tank, watch as your tank is transformed to a crystal clear habitat for what ever you choose.

Dont doubt it untill you try it. Its amazing stuff. :thumbsup: 



DaveS said:


> lmao, well I can't honestly answer why I did it. I guess because it was there and I didn't have anything better to do with my finger at that moment. I just remember my brother sitting next to me and saying quite clearly "That was brilliant".
> 
> You all have me intrigued now about this stuff. Maybe I will give it a shot one of these days to see what I am missing.
> 
> Dave


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

The "it removes nitrates' part is what I don't get. I thought we are adding nitrate when we dose..for the plants. So if we use purigen to remove it, and dose to add it...??


----------



## DaveS (Mar 2, 2008)

bsmith782 said:


> Buy it, put it in your tank, watch as your tank is transformed to a crystal clear habitat for what ever you choose.
> 
> Dont doubt it untill you try it. Its amazing stuff. :thumbsup:


Like I said I might see what happens more out of curiosity than anything else. My tanks are already crystal clear, but maybe they will become so clear I will be required to put warning stickers on the glass.

Dave


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

DaveS said:


> My tanks are already crystal clear, but maybe they will become so clear I will be required to put warning stickers on the glass.
> 
> Dave


Sorry for the useless post, but have to lol @ Dave..


----------



## Jack Gilvey (Jun 16, 2008)

waterfaller1 said:


> The "it removes nitrates' part is what I don't get. I thought we are adding nitrate when we dose..for the plants. So if we use purigen to remove it, and dose to add it...??


 According to the page linked earlier, it doesn't appear to _directly_ remove nitrate (or ammonia and nitrite) but, rather, the waste that would become such. Much like a protein skimmer in SW.



> Purigen™ controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds.


----------



## dewalltheway (Jan 19, 2005)

Since we are talking about this stuff, does anyone know if after you regen it is it ok to let it dry out before using it again or should you keep it in water?

This stuff does do a great job!


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

waterfaller1 said:


> The "it removes nitrates' part is what I don't get. I thought we are adding nitrate when we dose..for the plants. So if we use purigen to remove it, and dose to add it...??


It removes organic nitrates- so if you're dosing ferts, you're OK.

(One of the reasons I wanted fert tabs containing N for my tank, since I don't dose my water column.)

You're not supposed to let it dry out primarily b/c it shrinks and also tends to crack, both of which will make it fall through the bag. Think Purigen Snowstorm in your tank! :icon_eek:


----------



## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

No, it is not good to let it dry out. In the Seachem Forums they say that if you leave out of the tank after using it to put it in a Ziploc bag with some water.


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

DaveS said:


> Like I said I might see what happens more out of curiosity than anything else. My tanks are already crystal clear, but maybe they will become so clear I will be required to put warning stickers on the glass.
> 
> Dave


Thats what I had to do with my ADA tank.


----------



## spinycheek (Apr 26, 2008)

Can you use amquel to dechlor, or is prime really the only thing?


----------



## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

You can use whatever you want to dechlorinate Purigen.

However, if you plan on raising shrimp and want a dechlorinator for your tap water, Prime is the way to go.


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Prime is all I have ever used. Never once hae I had ant issues with it.


----------



## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

Actually, you're not supposed to use dechlorinators that are amine based as these form chloramine in the presence of chlorine.

http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Purigen_faq.html


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

jgilvey said:


> According to the page linked earlier, it doesn't appear to _directly_ remove nitrate (or ammonia and nitrite) but, rather, the waste that would become such. Much like a protein skimmer in SW.


I was talking and thinking about this last evening, correct me if I am wrong.
There is *no* secret ingredient on the Purigen that removes anything. Rather, it is like teeny tiny bioballs, which have alot of surface, and catch all the fine particles from the water as it passes through. It also colonizes with bacteria, and so it has the effect of more biological filtration. So it's basicly mechanical and biological filtration..no chemicals. It couldn't,because otherwise you wouldn't be able to "regenerate it with bleach".


----------



## Jack Gilvey (Jun 16, 2008)

waterfaller1 said:


> I was talking and thinking about this last evening, correct me if I am wrong.
> There is *no* secret ingredient on the Purigen that removes anything. Rather, it is like teeny tiny bioballs, which have alot of surface, and catch all the fine particles from the water as it passes through. It also colonizes with bacteria, and so it has the effect of more biological filtration. So it's basicly mechanical and biological filtration..no chemicals. It couldn't,because otherwise you wouldn't be able to "regenerate it with bleach".


 Honestly...none of this seems to have any basis in fact.


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

So then, can you explain exactly what it is and how it works?


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

No, Carole, Purigen isn't biological media, Purigen is chemical media. It's a resin developed to absorb tannins and other biological compounds that discolor water.

Other than it's got to do with ion exchange, and bleach breaks down all the organics that it absorbs which leaves it free to again absorb more ions, I can't explain any more the chemistry behind it b/c that's over my head (you could probably find some more detailed info on Seachem's forum). Here's the link to Seachem's product page describing Purigen: http://www.seachem.com/products/product_pages/Purigen.html


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

Ok..read this carefully..sorry if I keep pushing this, but I think I am still kind of on the right track. 
From their website:"Purigen™ is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. *It is not a mixture of ion exchangers *{resin}or adsorbents, but a *unique macro-porous synthetic polymer *"
It's plastic.. !! {with holes in it}
I just don't see how any chemical could hold up to being soaked in bleach, rinsed with tapwater, dechlorinated with another chemical, then just go on to be the same chemical afterward.
If you read those two sentences even more carefully they contradict one another as well....


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

It's not inert, or else it would not absorb tannins. It's not the same as tiny little plastic bioballs, or else it would not need to be kept moist and shrink if it dries.

I know for a fact that it absorbs tannins and sulphur, and I also know for a fact that it will shrink when it dries b/c I've observed both.

I've also observed it be regenerated and go back to absorbing afterwards. Biomedia has no impact on tannins or sulphur. That's a chemical process.

Bleach dissolves organics, so why shouldn't it be able to regenerate something that's job is to absorb organics?


----------



## Myka (Jan 22, 2008)

Why don't you guys ask SeaChem?? Honestly though, Carole's argument makes more sense from the perspective of someone who has never used Purigen. Haha!


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

Myka said:


> Why don't you guys ask SeaChem??


 I am going to do just that, will let you know what they say. Though most companies don't divulge a ton of info on products.. generally. You usually get a nicely worded answer, that doesn't really answer your question. We'll see....


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

This is a pretty informative thread about Purigen in Seachem's forum over on APC. There are quite a few people who've asked the same questions over there as are being asked over here, and Seachem IMO has given pretty straighforward answers (short of disclosing proprietary manufacturing info)

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/seachem/36654-purigen.html

Oh, and here's another pretty informative Purigen thread over on Seachem's forum (starring our own Naja  ) http://www.seachem.com/support/forums/showthread.php?t=393&highlight=purigen


----------



## Jack Gilvey (Jun 16, 2008)

Cool. This seems spot on describing how a chemical filter works:



> The pores in both materials provide bigger surface and nothing else.
> 
> The effectiveness of both does not depend on mechanical trapping of particles.
> 
> ...


http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ain-something-me-about-purigen.html#post79389

Polymer adsorbents can be pretty advanced, like Poly-Filter. Something being a chemical filter doesn't mean that it's a _chemical_ itself, of course. Activated carbon is not a really a chemical, but it's a chemical filter.

Thread also addresses what I said before, that it doesn't so much adsorb nitrate/nitrite/ammonia but it cleans up those organics which would lead to them.


> Simply put, Purigen's structure is such that it's greatest affinity is for nitrogen containing organic material. It also has a very small affinity for inorganic nitrogen (like nitrate) but this is dwarfed by the former.


----------



## Myka (Jan 22, 2008)

jgilvey said:


> Activated carbon is not a really a chemical, but it's a chemical filter.


Carbon IS a chemical. It's on the Periodic Table as "6". Wait, maybe it's not a chemical, maybe it's an "element"? Haha!


----------



## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Myka said:


> Carbon IS a chemical. It's on the Periodic Table as "6". Wait, maybe it's not a chemical, maybe it's an "element"? Haha!


No, it's on the PERIODIC TABLE OF ELEMENTS. Not Chemicals. By definition carbon likely is a "chemical" and more specifically activated carbon.

None the less, IT isn't that carbon is a "chemical" that makes it chemical filtration.

EDIT: Just cause I don't want to feel crazy I'm totally going to link what I actually "quoted". Somehow you much have been editing it just as I clicked quote.


----------



## Jack Gilvey (Jun 16, 2008)

over_stocked said:


> None the less, IT isn't that carbon is a "chemical" that makes it chemical filtration.


 Of course, just as Purigen being a polymer doesn't mean it functions solely as teeny tiny bioballs.











"The Chemical Table"...I like it. :wink:


----------



## NyteBlade (Aug 19, 2006)

First off, I'm no chemist either but I'll do my best to explain what Purigen is based on what I've read on here and other forums and from Seachem.

Purigen is a synthetic resin that has an affinity towards organic waste. Image Purigen as one side of the magnet and organic waste as the other side. As the water passes through, Purigen absorbs the organic waste from the water that would normally just be floating around that could lead to "bad things". I'm not too sure if Purigen is chemically the same concept as activated carbon, but I kind of put it mentally in the same category..._however_ Purigen is far superior for use in a planted tank as unlike carbon, it doesn't absorb any of the fertilizers that are added in - it simply absorbs organic waste.

For new hobbyists, I probably wouldn't throw in Purigen on my list of critical things to buy. I don't think absorbing organic waste is particularly critical as I'm sure plants absorb some of it when it gets converted to nitrate, and simple water changes probably do quite a bit too. However, I certainly don't think it's a bad thing. Personally, I mainly use it because it makes my water crystal clear and almost sparkle


----------



## Myka (Jan 22, 2008)

jgilvey said:


> "The Chemical Table"...I like it. :wink:


:hihi: It's been a long time since highschool!! I had to Google search it. :icon_redf


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

NyteBlade said:


> For new hobbyists, I probably wouldn't throw in Purigen on my list of critical things to buy. I don't think absorbing organic waste is particularly critical as I'm sure plants absorb some of it when it gets converted to nitrate, and simple water changes probably do quite a bit too. However, I certainly don't think it's a bad thing. Personally, I mainly use it because it makes my water crystal clear and almost sparkle


Great summary, I couldn't have said that better myself. :thumbsup: :fish:


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

Do any of you who use it keep shrimp? 
Here is what Seachem said~
"It is not mechanical filtration. As far as chemical filtration is concerned it is not meant that chemicals pull out material but that there is more than a physical removal of material. Purigen is part of the chemical filtration genera. It does not work as an ion exchange resin would typically work. The portion describing the macro-porous nature tell you there is significant internal surface area for more adsorption. It helps control ammonia/nitrite/nitrate by adsorbing nitrogenous waste. The bleach regeneration works b/c it oxidizes the organics adsorbed allowing for regeneration or essentially the bleach reacts with the organics so they let go of Purigen."


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I've got Amanos in my tank with Purigen. 2 of my females are berried.

I did have RCS but my GBRs have eaten most of them... I did see 2 yesterday though! LOL


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

Very cool. That's great news..what's a gbr? Oh, German Blue Ram? I've never kept them, they are pretty. But kind of aggressive, right? I was really not trying to be obstinate, just objective. I am very >>>insert slightly _bad_ word.. , when it comes to my tanks. Nothing goes in them unless I at least know what it is.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Yes, sry GBR = German Blue Rams.  

Nope, the GBRs aren't aggressive towards any other fish besides other GBRs, as long as other fish don't come w/in 6" of their nest site when they're spawning. Then they just flare at an "intruder" till it goes away.

I think it's good- I don't like using stuff I haven't researched, either. I was dubious about Purigen before I researched and tried it out, too... now I'm sold. :thumbsup: 

You going to try some, Carole?


----------



## waterfaller1 (Jul 5, 2006)

I was thinking of trying some. But only in the 20L, not the nanos. I added some of the biomedia from my new eheim to the filters on the nanos. Is there a certain recommended amount per gal? ie: how much do I need? I am not too keen on the regeneration idea...would probably just use it like carbon~ on occasion to polish the water, then remove it.


----------



## NyteBlade (Aug 19, 2006)

waterfaller1 said:


> I was thinking of trying some. But only in the 20L, not the nanos. I added some of the biomedia from my new eheim to the filters on the nanos. Is there a certain recommended amount per gal? ie: how much do I need? I am not too keen on the regeneration idea...would probably just use it like carbon~ on occasion to polish the water, then remove it.


On the product description it says "100 ml bag of Purigen purifies and polishes up to 100 gallons of water for up to six months" so assuming you have 20 gallons instead of 100, you should only need about 20 mL for 6 months. 

Honestly though, I don't really measure. I think I put ~50 mL in my 29 gallon. I normally just try to make sure it's not turning brown too fast. If it is, you might want to add more.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I use just one of the small size bags in my 90gal and it does a great job. Comes already in "The Bag". 

I'm sure I have to regenerate it more frequently than if I'd gone with the larger size, but regeneration really isn't a big deal. Just plop it in some bleach, leave it for a day. Plop it in some water with Prime, leave it for a day. Plop it in some water with white vinegar, leave it for a day. I then leave mine in RO water for another day just to be on the safe side before putting it back into my filter. Time and effort on my part probably total all of 10min.


----------



## Floyd R Turbo (Apr 24, 2009)

I know this is an older thread, but I had the exact problem and made this thread about it. I wanted to post this here because I brought it to Seachem's attention, they tested it and confirmed the problem and are changing their labeling & instructions accordingly.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...harging-seachem-purigan-emergency-122023.html

If you follow their instructions, you will drop your pH below readable levels after re-inserting the bag. 100ml is made for 100g.

The extra step I now take is to put the bag after regen into a 5g bucket with a power head running and monitor the pH until whatever steps are taken during regen are neutralized. Mainly this is the Acid Buffer step, which if you followed their instruction, makes the 100ml bag a huge acid buffer which leaches out into your tank water. I managed to save a few of my fish and only had a mini-cycle occur, and my tank is up and running again with a new batch of fry.

I am currently regenerating a 250ml batch for my 55g and will be taking all precautions.


----------



## nismo tetra (Oct 11, 2009)

wow floyd nice information. You got a KICK BUTT care package to, I'm super jealous. If you don't use root tabs Ill buy some off you lol. I'm tempted to call them up with the same problem so I can get one of my own lol. JK, I'm not like that. But I very well might have to do that as I am going to recharge my purigen for the first time. I think I will let it sit in freshwater for about a week, refreshing the water every new day before I reintroduce it to the tank. This is the 100ml bag and it goes into a 20 gallon tank.

I don't have prime though, I wonder if Tetra aquasafe dechlorinator works? We have bottles of that stuff for free. The label doesn't say anything about it being Amine based. So I don't know. I'm kind of nervous now. I don't want to lose my cardinals or pencils.

Although I will say that purigen does work. It removed the surface film from my tank very fast. It turned darkbrown pretty fast to though lol.


----------



## nugzboltz (May 20, 2008)

Great info man, this is probably why I had a bunch of shrimp die off the first time I regenerated a bag using their acid buffer. I'll definitely keep this in mind next time I do a regen.


----------



## Floyd R Turbo (Apr 24, 2009)

It all depends on what you set point is for pH. The reason they have you do the extra acid buffer step for FW is to lower the pH because the bleach is very high pH. IMO you should always run a test in a 5g bucket and monitor the pH to make sure it won't affect your tank one way or the other, which I believe is what they are adding to the regen instructions.

I would stick with Prime, a 250ml bottle only costs $9 at Petco and 100ml is cheaper. As long as it doesn't contain any slime/stress coat, you should be fine - that's what can foul Purigen permanently.

I used about 1/4 of the acid buffer they recommended and let it sit for about 8-10 hours and stirred occasionally, then put in the 5g bucket this morning about 10am. my tap pH is off the scale high so I'm going to test it in a few and see where it's at.


----------



## Floyd R Turbo (Apr 24, 2009)

Ok, big warning for everyone here. I just tested the pH of the water in my 5g bucket, which comes out of the tap off the scale high. I put the purigen in there at 9-10am today and the pH is now (3pm) off the scale low. This is a 250mL bag. In just 5 or 6 hours, it dropped the pH over 3 full points.

Keep in mind that I soaked my purigen in the bleach solution for about a week (I got busy), then rinsed it in freshwater, bleached it again for about a week (I'm really busy), then put it in 4 cups of water with 1 Tbsp Acid buffer for about 8-10 hours (overnight) and rinsed thoroughly, then dropped it in the bucket with a power head running.

I honestly did not expect it to drop that fast considering the bleaching time and acid buffer concentration. I believe I will be writing Seachem again!!! They better get their instructions right!!


----------



## Floyd R Turbo (Apr 24, 2009)

In 1/2 hour it dropped down to roughly 8.0-8.2 (brown with reddish tint) on API high pH.


----------



## nismo tetra (Oct 11, 2009)

I went to petco to get some frozen brine so I thought I would look at the Prime. The only prime they had said that it provides slime coat. So is there two different kinds?

http://www.petco.com/product/7929/Seachem-Prime.aspx

I did some searching on seachem website. It's purigen directions say to use chlorguard or prime. Maybe try the other stuff and see what happens? http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/ChlorGuard.html


----------



## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

I have been using Purigen for years and this is how I do it.

1: Rinse all the crap out of it under the tap.
2: Soak in 100% pure bleach over night in glass bowl.
3: Rinse under running tap water for a few minutes.
4: Place in large glass bowl of tap water and pour in a 1/2 cap full of Prime.
5: Let soak a few hours.
6: Smell pouch - If there is no hint of Bleach return to canister.


----------



## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

nismo tetra said:


> I went to petco to get some frozen brine so I thought I would look at the Prime. The only prime they had said that it provides slime coat. So is there two different kinds?
> 
> http://www.petco.com/product/7929/Seachem-Prime.aspx
> 
> I did some searching on seachem website. It's purigen directions say to use chlorguard or prime. Maybe try the other stuff and see what happens? http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/ChlorGuard.html


What's with your links? They start out with "http://www.anonym.to/?"


----------



## nismo tetra (Oct 11, 2009)

? really? they look normal to me. weird.


----------



## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

nismo tetra said:


> ? really? they look normal to me. weird.


Right click properties. Then you will see what I mean.


----------



## Floyd R Turbo (Apr 24, 2009)

It's a link forwarded service, kinda weird, but I noticed it recently. Just click the link and it will bring you to the page.


----------



## Floyd R Turbo (Apr 24, 2009)

Prime won't foul Purigen. All of seachem's products are compatible with each other.


----------

