# Assembling a custom CO2 regulator with Burkert 6011 and Hoke 1300 series needle valve



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Painter's tape!!!!! Finally, someone else who does that, I thought I was the only one.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Painter's tape!!!!! Finally, someone else who does that, I thought I was the only one.



Painter's blue tape is easy to work with. It doesn't leave behind a big mess of goo like duck tape. 


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

They came in, yay! 

Thanks man, I dig the metal handles.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> They came in, yay!
> 
> Thanks man, I dig the metal handles.


so the package wasn't ripped this time? lol. give it a try. these hokes valves are crazy precise. I'm not joking.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

AlanLe said:


> so the package wasn't ripped this time? lol. give it a try. these hokes valves are crazy precise. I'm not joking.


Hahah, no rip at all, the guy was actually smart enough to ship in a normal size bag with pink bubble wrap, thanks again. 

I have to grab some 1/6 tube fitting, do you really have to replace the ferrule after each use? 

Oh and check this out, it actually worked! 

No Flash








Flash









And that not paint.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

*Assembling a custom CO2 regulator with Burkert 6011 and Hoke 1300 series need...*

You can also get the 10-32 to 1/8 npt reducer. Then slap a swagie check valve on top. By the way what did you do to the Hoke handles? 


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

The silver doesn't seem to stay on, disregard my post. 

Anyways, I took the handles off to reposition the numbers. One of the valves was set above zero, I just lower it a bit. I still have them, and it's funny because I always thought they were plastic not metal. 

Do you know if these are "leak tight"? I remember one of the Hokes has a shut off function, not sure if it was this one. 

Alan, are you going to reveal that monster rig? It's like a Co2 system on steroids.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

disregard the 10/32 to 1/8 npt. it won't fit unless you do some tappings.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

FlyingHellFish said:


> The silver doesn't seem to stay on, disregard my post.
> 
> Anyways, I took the handles off to reposition the numbers. One of the valves was set above zero, I just lower it a bit. I still have them, and it's funny because I always thought they were plastic not metal.
> 
> ...


these are metering valves. you're probably thinking of a shut off valve.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Naw man, like if I can completely stop the gas flow like a shut off valve. Pdf says nah nah nah nah ... 

Post the monster rig..... it's like a tank with 10 mounted guns.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

It's not fully tested yet. 


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## cmdR_CHRIS (Jan 27, 2014)

Hey Alan, thanks for helping me with my build! I picked up my Swagelok parts yesterday and finished building the regulator last night. I'll have to start a thread on TPT about it. I used mostly the same components as you, but ended up going with brass Swagelok parts. The Hoke 1300 series needle valve is a work of precision, very happy with mine! With your and FlyingHellFish help this build was a breeze. Building my own regulator system has been deeply satisfying. roud:


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

cmdR_CHRIS said:


> Hey Alan, thanks for helping me with my build! I picked up my Swagelok parts yesterday and finished building the regulator last night. I'll have to start a thread on TPT about it. I used mostly the same components as you, but ended up going with brass Swagelok parts. The Hoke 1300 series needle valve is a work of precision, very happy with mine! With your and FlyingHellFish help this build was a breeze. Building my own regulator system has been deeply satisfying. roud:


It's great to hear that your system is up and running. Soon you will find yourself building the second and third system


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

So the Swagelok location near me just moved across the city, shipping is around 15 - 20 dollars now (Canadian postal service, don't ask why), and they JUST moved. And how come the prices are higher than I remember for SS?


@cmdR_Chris
Yes, you must post the thread! The RedLine series is a step up from their BaseLine (Same as my Concoa 312 etc) so you got a heck of a deal. I'm not going lie, I'm still pretty jealous


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

The Swagelok vernier handle used to be around $25 just a few months ago. Now it's $30. That said, Swagelok has great warranty on their products. I brought in my Swagelok regulator for them to take a look because the high pressure gauge wasn't seated correctly. The guy just took it back and they will send me a replacement (yes another regulator). I didn't buy the unit from them. How awesome is that?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

That's awesome! Just out of curiosity, was it the one you got from me?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> That's awesome! Just out of curiosity, was it the one you got from me?


No this was the unit I bought recently. There is something funky about high pressure port. I can only do about 2 turns. It usually takes 3 to 4 turns before you can feel the resistant. By the way, i have experienced a "regulator freeze". The orifice in some regulators is small and it can get frozen by the cold CO2 flow. In this case, the low pressure gauge will drop to 0 PSI. It takes about 10 to 20 minutes for things to clear up and everything works again.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

If anyone is wondering..... it kind of works.










Hoke handle on S series.









Next up, the Parker's Verner (non-HR series) on the S.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

looks interesting Tony. Dip that handle into some goo-gone. it will take that white substance out. by the way, why are you keeping those shut off valves? 


what should I do with this VCR reg? the problem is it has a male VCR outlet. attaching a post body to it is no fun. I can use adapter but it will extend the arm longer. any suggestions?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

SS tube post body? I dunno. That's kinda a tough one. Remote post body?


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## birbaliktanki (Jun 18, 2014)

I have a question about Part # 7 - Swagelok SS-400-R-2 (SS Swagelok Tube Fitting, Reducer, 1/4 in. x 1/8 in. Tube OD). Because in my build, I am just using this part (see attached photo). Is there any serious drawback to what I'm using?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> SS tube post body? I dunno. That's kinda a tough one. Remote post body?


Actually I was thinking of a tube elbow or have Swagelok to drill 1/4 NPT ports. They do this kind of service in back of their building. 



birbaliktanki said:


> I have a question about Part # 7 - Swagelok SS-400-R-2 (SS Swagelok Tube Fitting, Reducer, 1/4 in. x 1/8 in. Tube OD). Because in my build, I am just using this part (see attached photo). Is there any serious drawback to what I'm using?


I'm just guessing the size here. This is a 1/4 or 1/8 female NPT to barb fitting. It's not the part that I listed. The tube on this fitting is a barb. I don't think there is any drawback in using a barb fitting. A lot of members here used it. Maybe they can chime in.


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## DerangedCorgi (Oct 15, 2010)

How much did this build end up costing in the end? I'm considering just building my regulator instead of buying a prebuilt one like the milwaukees.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

I don't know what to do with them... :S
My source for fittings has moved across the city.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

DerangedCorgi said:


> How much did this build end up costing in the end? I'm considering just building my regulator instead of buying a prebuilt one like the milwaukees.


The cost varies . You can build a system as high as $300 or as low as $150. It depends on the material (ss vs brass), brand (Burkett, Hoke, Parker etc.,), new vs used, and your negotiating skill for the parts. 


FlyingHellFish said:


> I don't know what to do with them... :S
> My source for fittings has moved across the city.


Fittings are easy to find. Check SSP. Their fittings are really compact and not bulky like Swagelok.


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## Joshism (Nov 26, 2015)

Is that an E92 M3 in the background of those first posts? I want a E93 335i so bad. Gotta get rid of my E46 first.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Joshism said:


> Is that an E92 M3 in the background of those first posts? I want a E93 335i so bad. Gotta get rid of my E46 first.



It's an E90 328. I want the 335 too but those new Lex IS350 are catching my attention 


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

AlanLe said:


> looks interesting Tony. Dip that handle into some goo-gone. it will take that white substance out. by the way, why are you keeping those shut off valves?
> 
> 
> what should I do with this VCR reg? the problem is it has a male VCR outlet. attaching a post body to it is no fun. I can use adapter but it will extend the arm longer. any suggestions?


I was gonna say split nut until I saw the thread on the output. I know you're not a fan of this, but I've had no issue after a year swith the metering valve pre-solenoid on the ultra line I built. 

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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Alan, why not use 
SS-4-VCR-3-4TA
On that male vcr out? 
Or maybe a tube weld gland? Will the tube side of a weld gland fit into normal swagelok compression fitting? It's 1/4 I don't see why not. 

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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

*Assembling a custom CO2 regulator with Burkert 6011 and Hoke 1300 series need...*



Dead2fall said:


> Alan, why not use
> SS-4-VCR-3-4TA
> On that male vcr out?
> Or maybe a tube weld gland? Will the tube side of a weld gland fit into normal swagelok compression fitting? It's 1/4 I don't see why not.
> ...



No i tried already. The VCR gland is little bit bigger. 


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