# Aquarium glass



## Enano (Sep 19, 2014)

It is typically recommended that the base fit between the sides (how I built my small tank 12" cube and some google searches). 
For glass aquariums I put it together (dry fit) and use duct tape to hold it together. I get it all square using more duct tape to secure it. 
Once square I mask the seams (masking tape), run continuous beads of silicone along all the joints, then use a baby carrot that I've shaped to how I want the bead (slightly rounded) to push the silicone into and along all the joints. 
After 5-10 minutes, once the silicone has tacked up a bit - I remove the masking tape as smoothly as possible leaving a nice sharp edge. If you like you can then use another shaped carrot to push the edges flat (make sure you don't disturb the inner part of the bead, we're just doing cosmetics now - I like the slight step so don't smooth it down). 
Give it 72 hours to cure + until the vinegar smell fades then leak test and if all is good remove the duct tape. Acetone and alcohol easily remove the residue. 
Ta-da!
This is just my methodology, you'll need to cover all your structural concerns of course in the planning. 
Hope this helps.


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## Enano (Sep 19, 2014)

PS. The carrot is optional but is really nice in that the silicone doesn't stick to it and is easily manipulated + it's cheap.


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

Use blue painters' tape. I leaves no residue whatsoever, lifts off easier and leaves a smaller ridge than masking or duct tape. You should leave the ridge in place. If you feather the edges after pulling off the tape, the very thin edges will chip and tear easily the first time you scrape the glass and that creates small pockets where algae builds up but can't be removed easily.

Working with silicone is just messy. Buy a box of cheap silicone gloves. Your finger will be the most efficient tool you have unless you have true "sausage fingers", lol! In smoothing a seam do your best to do it in one continuous swipe.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

What silicone do you guys use for this? =he one I used seemed to dry out very fast and made it hard to remove the tape withoutroling the edge of the beed

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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

There are a series of TY vids showing how it's done professionally. If you're wondering why there is a space gap between panes on ADA and other tanks, it's because it allows for silicone to be injected.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

That is a SUPERB collection of videos! 
Easy to understand, even though I do not speak a word of Japanese. 

Note they are working in a very clean room, and everything they are using is absolutely clean. 

Love those clamps!


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

Those 90 degree clamps are used in glass construction so I'm wondering if glass shower/bathroom builders could build a rimless tank on the cheap.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

i have asked my local glass place if they would build it for me but they said they didnt feel comfortable doing it, SO far i have made one 50g but i dont really like the dimensions of the tank with my driftwood inside it, so i think what im going to do is use the tank for a reptile and make a new tank. I was thinking of doing a 38x20x20inch. This would give me plenty of room to put more mid to back ground plants in with the driftwood and also biggers better haha. It would be about 65.8gallons so not to much and the good thing is that the stand i made was ment for a 38"wide by 20"d tank so then it wood fit in like a glove which would also be nice aesthetically nicer. I wouldnt have to get more lighting since my lights are 36" wide which idk do u guys think adding a inch to each side is really going to affect my lighting that bad?

Bump: also one more question, when u get glass cut do u have them sand the edges down or do a chamfer edge?


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

That extra 1" on each side probably won't make much of a difference in light.

You should get the edges polished for both aesthetic and safety reasons.


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

You can also find those clamps in some of the woodworking catalogs; Woodcrafters, etc. Both glass and wood catalogs are equally overpriced, so shop them. Google miter clamps and I;m sure you'll have lost of possibilities.They really aren't that special. Spent hours shopping the Toyo thick glass cutting tool and everybody wanted $300 and over. Saw one at close to $500. Finally found it for $180. I was pleased!

treaLcham, for safety's sake you should have the edges seamed. A freshly cut piece of glass from a glass shop will have the most square edges possible. That also makes them lethal.

I should've noted that the only "unique aspect" of those clamps is the wooden spacers on the inside to make it stay proud of the joint so there would be access all the way to the top. The woodworker's miter clamp is easily modified to do the same.


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

That IS a cool set of vids. Thanks for putting them up there. The Japanese goes over my head too, but three things stood out to me:

That's about the dimensions of a 50B, and he still had a second set of hands there to help him get the first two panels aligned. The moral: It takes more than two hands at some point.

All of that glass appeared to have light chamfers on the edges and VERY precisely cut to specific dimensions. The moral: A good glass shop and an accurate cut list are just critical.

Lastly, that dude really knows what he's doing with painter's tape!


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Bushkill said:


> That IS a cool set of vids. Thanks for putting them up there. The Japanese goes over my head too, but three things stood out to me:
> 
> That's about the dimensions of a 50B, and he still had a second set of hands there to help him get the first two panels aligned. The moral: It takes more than two hands at some point.
> 
> ...


Yea with out a doubt he is def a skilled worker when it comes to building these fine peaces! I am going to go to my local glass shop where they cut there glass and see what they can do

Bump:


Bushkill said:


> You can also find those clamps in some of the woodworking catalogs; Woodcrafters, etc. Both glass and wood catalogs are equally overpriced, so shop them. Google miter clamps and I;m sure you'll have lost of possibilities.They really aren't that special. Spent hours shopping the Toyo thick glass cutting tool and everybody wanted $300 and over. Saw one at close to $500. Finally found it for $180. I was pleased!
> 
> treaLcham, for safety's sake you should have the edges seamed. A freshly cut piece of glass from a glass shop will have the most square edges possible. That also makes them lethal.
> 
> I should've noted that the only "unique aspect" of those clamps is the wooden spacers on the inside to make it stay proud of the joint so there would be access all the way to the top. The woodworker's miter clamp is easily modified to do the same.


Yea i dont need to worry about getting a good glass cutter because i have a shop literally 5min away that cuts glass and sells it so i am set on that! The first time i bought from them i made the mistake of asking them to sand the edges but i was not specific enough on how much to sand off and they kinda over sanded it and made it very hard to put the tank together without getting air bubbles and what not. SO what you are telling me is that i need to get the edges chamfered and not sanded and also in the video i couldnt really tell but when he was using the pipe clamps did he tighten it all the way till the glass was touching each other again or did he leave a gap? These videos are by far the best way to do this and i will be investing in some nice clamps to do this for sure!!


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

I don't think you want the glass chamfered, you want the edges seamed. This knocks off the sharp edges.


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

deeda said:


> I don't think you want the glass chamfered, you want the edges seamed. This knocks off the sharp edges.


Yup!


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Ahh ok ill ask them if they can do that. Thanks  

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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

But if it ends up costing extra I think ill just do it myself with some sand paper very lightly 

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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

You'll want them to do it because you won't have the materials to do a good job.


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> You'll want them to do it because you won't have the materials to do a good job.


Have to agree here too. Not a good place to pinch pennies.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

You can use Emory cloth on a sanding block. Works like a champ.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

GraphicGr8s said:


> You can use Emory cloth on a sanding block. Works like a champ.


hmm maybe. I would just hate to have the guy do it and it come out the same way. I dont want it so that the edges are rounded i just want like a very light light lihgt sand to the edges to make it user friendly. This is why i might do it my self instead of worrying about if the guy will do it correctly or not


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

The edge polish, adding a 45 degree edge, is important because sanded edges are still sharp. It won't cut your arm but it can still scrape your arm. You won't be able to do such a good job with edge polishing. It's relatively cheap also.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

treyLcham said:


> hmm maybe. I would just hate to have the guy do it and it come out the same way. I dont want it so that the edges are rounded i just want like a very light light lihgt sand to the edges to make it user friendly. This is why i might do it my self instead of worrying about if the guy will do it correctly or not


If you want a true square edge you could add a side guide that is adjustable to keep the block square to the edge.

You may want a square corner but really you need to "break the edge" In woodworking we just run the sandpaper a stroke or two on the edge and I do the same with my glass. it just makes it a bit more "user friendly". In woodworking we do it so the top coat will not break at the corner.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

You can get those corner clamps @ home depot. I think I got them for $8-9.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> The edge polish, adding a 45 degree edge, is important because sanded edges are still sharp. It won't cut your arm but it can still scrape your arm. You won't be able to do such a good job with edge polishing. It's relatively cheap also.


Wouldn't that just be a chamfer if there making ita 45 degree edge? ; thought that doing that would take up to much space and that why I thought if I lightly sanded the edges hat it would work way betterwhen I got to put it together? Idk I'm a rookie so just try and hang in there while expaning this lol 

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## lochaber (Jan 23, 2012)

GraphicGr8s said:


> You can use Emory cloth on a sanding block. Works like a champ.


I did this with a bunch of glass scraps I had. Probably going to use them as braces to hold mattenfilters in, but not certain.

I just got some emery cloth (I can't even remember what grit size), stapled it onto a chunk of 2x3, and a couple passes over each edge was enough to make the glass perfectly safe to handle.

I can't say for building a tank, but you might need something more precise/square for construction/adhesion purposes, but for safety, a bit of emery cloth is pretty inexpensive, super easy, and effective.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

lochaber said:


> I did this with a bunch of glass scraps I had. Probably going to use them as braces to hold mattenfilters in, but not certain.
> 
> I just got some emery cloth (I can't even remember what grit size), stapled it onto a chunk of 2x3, and a couple passes over each edge was enough to make the glass perfectly safe to handle.
> 
> I can't say for building a tank, but you might need something more precise/square for construction/adhesion purposes, but for safety, a bit of emery cloth is pretty inexpensive, super easy, and effective.


cool to know but see the problem im having is i have been told to do like 3different things now and its confusing me so much on which is the most affective way to make and safe but not make it rounded of to much. SO far i have been told to just have the edges polished, seamed and one guy said to get it with the 45 degree edge but yet another guy said not to get it chamfered but a 45 degree edge is a chamfer so it really is confusing me left right up and down now haha.

Bump: is this what u guys mean by polished? Its just a very very small 45* to make the edges safe. Looks like a chamfer but i guess since it isnt really that big it isnt called a chamfer maybe?


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

Yeah, no. That's a flat polish.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> Yeah, no. That's a flat polish.


o alright cool then yea for sure that sounds like the best bet thanks everyone for the help i will be using the videos and buy the supply this week and probably that means glass as well and then ill assemble it after thanksgiving


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

alright i promise last question haha, Its a big one though.
Acrylic or glass? Acrylic seems like its way easier to set up and also has more clarity and the only downside really is scratches? Idk let me know what you think will be better for a planted tank. Tanks will only have driftwood so no rocks to scrape it up.


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## saiko (Mar 30, 2007)

glass, remember the algae that you wanna scrape out. Also, safe from any accidental scratches.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Okie dokie glass it is then 

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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Just thought it would be good if i just added the two new videos i found that will probably make your life way easyer when trying to put the tank together. 
http://youtu.be/yYVAmNAmGB4?list=PLgzpmi_lY7dv7XHOFZQ_cFXyuSv9UwYS4


http://youtu.be/XkDdQHB4CMs?list=PLgzpmi_lY7dv7XHOFZQ_cFXyuSv9UwYS4
Easther one of these videos are great just this one is in english so easyer to tell what they are trying to say compared to the i think chines one that was posted on the first page.


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## kzeller (Dec 31, 2014)

Trey, I love that you fould the first one. This is where I learned what I was telling you about.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

haha yea when i first found it i thought to my self the same thing, ether you showed him and he made a video or you found the video. I finished cleaning the glass and all on friday and was gone all weekend so i am going to set it all up and see how it goes. Wish me luck ill send you some pics when i am done.

Bump: o and your video pretty much explained it the same way so even if i didnt have this video i would have been fine im sure =)


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

So i have a couple pictures of what i did today with the old 50gallon that i had taken apart and i also have a picture of some very high quality glass edge work that glasscages.com did on the new glass that i bought and picked up today! Hope you guys think that the images i provide help you in using this method when building a tank because it sure has helped me just by watching the video!

In this first picture you can see that i have the glass all in place with the zipties being used as spacers. Might i add that when setting the glass together i would use rubber gloves to insure that you get no oils from your hand on the glass to make the silicone bond way better! 








This second+third picture shows a silicone tack that i did, i put one every 3 inch i would say and for the bottom glass i put one for every 2 inches to make sure that when i take the zip ties out the glass doesn't sink to far down onto the bottom pane. Also i might add that when you do this i suggest you not try and clean up the silicone, but instead let it dry and then clean it up to insure you dont make a mess and possibly screw up the bonding.

















And finally in these last two pictures i would just like to show you the quality edge work that glasscages did on my new glass! Not only did they have way better prices than most places, but they also have very good quality so it just shows you that just because something is cheaper doesn't mean its not better!


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Nice work! What kind of silicon did you use? I look forward to seeing the final product.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

well for the 50 gallon i am using GE silicone 1 window and door, but im not sure what type i am going to use for the 60 gallon build. I have narrowed it down to three types 1-RTV103or 108. 2-Dow 795 or ill just use the GE, but still want to research a little more on what most people liked better!

Bump: one thing that i can say from experience is that the GE makes such a fast outer cure that if you cant take off the tape after lets say 30second then your screwed


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

You didn't tape the glass to prevent excess silicone from spreading? Also, that's a huge space between the glass which will probably allow the glass to wiggle a lot.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

This 50gallon tank is going to be used to hold dart frogs so i didnt feel the need to tape the whole thing up but yes i would have done that if it was going to be used for fish, but since i didnt i will just use a razorblade and cut the excess silicone off pretty easily. The gap is actually not big at all it is 1/16 of an inch which is ever so slightly bigger than ada tank gaps =) here is a picture


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

The larger the gap, the more the glass will wiggle. So to minimize that wiggle, the less gap there needs to be.

There was a rimless tank being sold at the LFS (can't recall the brand.) The gap was large enough that the panes wiggled with just slight pressure. The price was inexpensive (60p size for $80) but the amount of wiggle was unacceptable to me. In comparison, the ADA tanks didn't budge until a lot of pressure was applied.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

here is a new picture so you can see the gap better. Not really that big yes it could wiggle we will see but i dont think its going to be much and even if it is a little bit of wiggle, silicone is very strong and probably wouldnt change the strength of the tank i think.


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

welp i think i am going to be using rtv 108 for the 60gallon read some good reviews on it and what not=) Here the the finished tank build for the 50g =)


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

Did you leak test it yet?


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

not yet because it wont be used as a fish tank but i will if you want me to =). I just assembled the 60gallon so imn guessing by next week it will be together and then maybe by two weeks from now ill leak test it because since im not putting an inner bead i want to give it its full length to cure which is about 4days i believe since im using the rtv108

Bump:


Solcielo lawrencia said:


> Did you leak test it yet?


o and i forgot to add, remember how you thought it would have a good amount of wiggle to it since it had a mehh gap? Well once it was all done curing i tested your comment by trying to wiggle it and i got a mixed reaction about it. Yes it is a little wiggly but it was not easy to wiggle at all, it took a good amount of pressure for it to move =) So in short words, yes you were right it did have some wiggle, but it was not enough to be frightened about =) Glad you thought about it though!!


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## Cmeister (Jul 5, 2009)

Several questions, what is that silicone tool used in the videos? 

How do you get a silicone water tight seal when you do a tack segment then let it cure then apply more silicone later? silicone doesn't seal to silicone


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## treyLcham (Sep 9, 2014)

Cmeister said:


> Several questions, what is that silicone tool used in the videos?
> 
> How do you get a silicone water tight seal when you do a tack segment then let it cure then apply more silicone later? silicone doesn't seal to silicone


depending on the silicone, most silicone i know of will infact bond with cured silicone if the cures silicone is not old. SO what i did was i made some small tacks first to hold the tank in place with out having the zip ties in and ten just filled the rest of the space up. You can check out my 60gallon tank journal as i ebelive i posted more inf on that. As for the tool, you dont need anyting special, just get one of the rubber silicone beading tools fro lowes that has like different edges to it and use what ever size edge you feed like using. I used the 90* edge to make it more ada style, but if i could go back i would have added a small edge like 3mm or so to make it a little safer if you ended up with airbubbles as i did. Tank was still useable just kinda hate seeing airbubbles.


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## Rockfella (May 1, 2021)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> There are a series of TY vids showing how it's done professionally. If you're wondering why there is a space gap between panes on ADA and other tanks, it's because it allows for silicone to be injected.


That is gold!


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