# VERY long, "skinny" tank. Doable/ possible ?



## Green_is_beautiful (Jan 31, 2006)

I've been pondering where to go in this hobby for a long time now (future tank sizes that is). I currently have several small planted tanks. I see a lot of threads on here about people having experience with big tanks and even with building their own tanks - so i'd like to tap into that wisdom.

I like the look of long tanks - the longer the better. At the same time i don't like tanks that are too deep (wet armpits one reason, considering we are talking about planted tanks lighting is another consideration).

So my question would be - is a 10 or 12ft long but only 18" wide x 20" deep tank "doable" ?
I hardly ever see tanks that length - and if then they are "monsters" (24"x30" etc).
a 10ftx20"x18" would hold "only" about 185G.

First: Material ?
Glass still an option ? Or acrylic only ?
Or neither ? (i am wondering if there could be issues with a sidepanel being so long but only 20" high)
This is obviously the most important question.

Second: Filtration.
I'd like to do a HMF (hamburger mattenfilter) on one end. I did a quick sketch and will attach it to the bottom of the post. It's not meant as the only means of filtration - but i'd like to hide that section of the tank behind a wall.
(i want this tank to be "in wall")
It would also make a great place to "hide" heaters etc.

I was thinking of adding a large size canister (FX5, XP4 etc?)

Third: Flow.
I'd really like to make this a rainbow tank. I believe a good ammount of current would be beneficial. Of course the tank is very long to begin with so i am concerned about stagnant areas.

Is it generally a good idea to have the filter outlet on one side of the tank and the return on the other (for example on other big tanks like 180s etc)?
I was thinking of running a pipe under the substrate from behind the HMF and pumping the water to the other end of the tank.
This is one of the areas i'd really appreciate some ideas/ advice as i have no experience with tanks that size.

Fourth: Plants.
I know "plantedtank" is mainly about high tech tanks. I prefer medium light for less maintenance, pruning etc - also considering the size of the tank. So there will be a lot of java ferns, crypts, vals etc.

Here is the sketch to show a little better what i am talking about:










Thanks everyone in advance for anything i might've overlooked or could help me with future planning.


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## JenThePlantGeek (Mar 27, 2006)

You might have trouble finding a solid 10' piece of glass for your front window. Consider breaking the length in half and have each half separated by a brace from front to back to help with bowing and a brace in front to connect the two separate pieces. It would also help save you dropping a small fortune on a piece of acrylic that length and of suitable thickness to prevent bowing. It might not look as "nice", but it would certainly be safer. The bottom should really be solid though, I'd hate to have all that weight pressing directly down on a seam. There are lots of build your own tank thread on here that talk about epoxys and other waterproof coatings - maybe do waterproofing over wood for the back and bottom. 

I like your mattenfilter idea, but what about putting one on both ends and running a pipe to create flow on both ends, one pumping out closer to the front and one closer to the back? Then you'd get a swirl current effect and I think you'd have less stagnation and better filtration that if you only had one end as the filter. 

I think you are spot on with your choice of plants! Have you thought about the lighting yet? And tank access - how will you be able to get into the tank to do work and feed fish?


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## spypet (Sep 15, 2006)

Just a few thoughts on this subject.
because 4' lights are so standard, try to keep your project 8' or 12' long
you can take standard 48"Lx18"Wx20"H 75gal rimless seamless tanks
and join them together using a water bridge which allows most fish to
freely migrate from one tank to another.
we discussed this here a few Months ago. it's basically a clear acrylic
pipe about 4" diameter that goes up and out of one tank, then down
and into the next. water gets siphoned in to start, then stays there
on it's own until the water line gets below the pipe entrance lip.
To save money on the stands, just use standard metal ones that get
sold with the tank, and skirt them with paneling to match your decor.
as for water filtering, just get one large caniser per 75gal tank you add.
the water bridge bonuses redundant filtering in case one of them fails.
as for plants surviving in a long narrow tank. put in-line heater and UV
along each canister filter return which is a relatively cheap approach.
over-spec the canister by at least 1 level since the in-line stuff will
cut the flow rate, and you want to get lots of flow on your return.
you can always pop in a cheap powerhead where ever flow is lacking.
I've seen huge wall hanging tanks costing thousands of dollars and
they were only 6" deep, with live plants growing as well as always.
just keep in mind the narrower the tank, the more light leaks out so
you can get a lot of glare along the sides while you view the tank.


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## Canoe2Can (Oct 31, 2004)

Check with glasscages.com. They make custom glass or acrylic tanks, and their prices are reasonable. They'd be able to make something like this in either material (on their website, they offer 12 foot glass tanks, so it is possible). Personally, I think long, low tanks like this look pretty cool if they are appropriately aquascaped. 

Not a fan of mattenfilters though. 

For plants, I'll suggest jungle vals. They can grow to 6 feet long, and in a tank like this, it would be incredible to see them flowing along the surface, aided by a swift current. 

Best of luck.


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

I think it is a great idea if you can pull it off. I don't know much about them, it seems like if you were to build it yourself, a plywood tank with the front panel glass or acylic or whatever they use. I know someone built a plywood tank on this forum recently (I believe it was a corner tank, like 130 gallons or I could be wrong). If you are planning to have access from the back side this probably isn't practical, but if not, it might be an option to cut down on cost/saftey. 

If you do this long tank idea, I do think that the idea of a pipe for increased circulation is a good idea. It seems like it would not be terrible expensive in the big picture and you could probably just bury a piece of pvc, attach one end to a pump, and use the various pvc elbows bends, etc to create something to be practically invisable and custom build to your tank.


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## steve5520 (Jul 3, 2006)

"So my question would be - is a 10 or 12ft long but only 18" wide x 20" deep tank "doable" ?"

The only question that comes to my mind is what would a tank that size WEIGH? I mean empty, not full.

I have a 72w x 18d x 26h (150 gallon) and it weighs a ton empty. Took 4 strong young men to bring it in the house.

I agree about depth. If I were to do it again, I would not have it 26h. It's a pain to reach the bottom and get anything done.


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## Green_is_beautiful (Jan 31, 2006)

Thanks everyone for your input.
I really didn't want a plywood tank - so thats basically out of the question (should've mentioned it in my original post).

I did some more research. Well...

Glass can be done in up to 12ft lengths but of course the weight is just insane as steve5520 mentioned (+500lbs for the whole tank) - ouch. Plus handling such a long "skinny" pane of glass would more than likely end up in a disaster.

Acrylic comes in standard sheets of 8ft length. I was told that longer is possible (up to 130" length - not quite the 12ft) but then i have to use 1" thick. Price = INSANE !

I really wanted the tank itself to be <$1000.

So going from the things mentioned above.... whatever i had in mind is probably not affordable for me.
I guess in my naive logic i figured - 1 acrylic 75G tank (roughly same width/height as my idea) = $200. Just do it in triple the length and we're all set. LOL

So i guess i'll change my plans a bit. I'll more than likely go with a 8ftx20"x22".
I am hoping a place like glasscages can build it for me in the sub 1K$ range.
I already e-mailed them but no reply so far.

I liked the idea of 2 MF's (one on each end) but now that i have to shorten the tank i really don't want to spare more than 6" on one side.

Lighting will more than likely be AHsupply. The "Stand" is going to be made from 2x4s. As i said the tank will be "in wall" - the back being a spare room/ office/ storage (junk) room with the tanks viewing side to the living room.
So i'll have plenty of access from the back for tank maintenance.


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## Canoe2Can (Oct 31, 2004)

Glass Cages has a 96 x 18 x 25 tank for less than $500, so I'm sure you could get the specs you want for less than $1000. Unless they're really crazy on custom work prices.

They also have a 130 x 24 x 25 for $1200. I don't know, but it seems to me they could make a similar tank but skinnier and shorter for less. Again, depends on their "custom prices." 

I've never worried about tank weight empty, but I've never met a tank yet I couldn't move easily with another person. What would be more challenging would be to get something that long around indoors. You'd need to choose location well.


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## esarkipato (Jul 19, 2005)

Have you thought about doing a "short" (not tall) 12' tank, but in an L-shape? That would look really sharp if built in-wall!!!

I would say don't give up on the idea so easily. I think it's very doable, although have nothing but encouragement to back that up:icon_frow


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## crazy loaches (Sep 29, 2006)

An interesting idea. Guess we're dead opposite though, my tank I am setting up now is 150G but only 4' long (31" deep), yeah I am going to have to drain the water down a ways and get over the tank to reach the bottom without getting the armpits wet. I also have a 40G thats also 4' long... kinda like your long skinny profile just alot smaller. I wonder if you could set it up like a river, one large pump with intake on one end and outflow on the other, creating a steady flow all in one direction. 18" x20" is the same profile as a 75G tank and if you used a large enough pump to get a nice flow across the tank I am guessing you shouldnt have stagnant areas, but you can always add a few powerheads.

I was thinking something similar for going over the mantle of the fireplace, a tank thats skinny enough not to stick out over the mantle, but about 6' long. Never persued it though.


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