# DIY canister filter



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

Thank you to some of the AAPE members who helped my elong with some advice. even if it was not from their personal experience! 

First off I started with a sterilight 12 cup air and water tight canister.
http://www.sterilite.com/Category.html?Section=Kitchenware&ProductCategory=163# I forgot to take a photograph of the one I have...but it it the 12 cup square on the website. 


this is the complete filter. 










This is the outflow pipe going to the aquarium with a gate valve for flow regulation.








(left side)








(right side)








(close up of the fitting I used. 3/4" male thread to 3/4" slip with 1/2" reducer slip.)


this is the inflow. 








it come directly from the aquarium right into the filter.
(the fitting used is female 3/4" thread to 1/2" slip)


This is the only way the electrical cord would be sealed 100%. 

















I used a 1/2 slip to 1/2 male thread with a female threaded endcap drilled to the diameter of the cord. both fittings are full of silicone. on the threads I have teflon tape, and between the canister and the PVC fittings I have a rubber seal with silicone. 

The container it's self is not 100% airtight out of the assembly line so I did a bit of modification...








The tab that is used to release steam with microwaving food was not airtight so I added a bunch of silicone to it and fixed that problem. 
I also have to have zip ties running around it two directions to keep pressure on the lid...I need to find a batter way to do this.
Oh, and at first this may seem like the best place to put the electrical cord, but is not...trust me. 

This is the intake I made out of old siphoning tubing.








I just used the trusty dremal tool's cutting wheel and cut three slices into the tubing. Then used a piece of foam (I am unsure what kind it is, I just found it in the garage not in a bag) and put a bead of silicone around it to insure it would stay in place. A rubber cork would work better.

This is how the filter media is separated.








top level contains 4 pot scrubbers
mid level has carbon bags on top of water polishing pads
bottom level contains the 80gph pump with bio cylinders.

I drilled a smaller hole for my CO2 tubing right into the outflow pipe to get diffused.









another full shot of the filter finished.










The filter has been up and running since early December without any problems and I plan on making more for other aquariums in the near future. 

I have the filter on this aquarium.










*Part List:*
1/2"* PVC** ***
Egg crate
pipe fittings to direct PVC to desired location 
3/4" male thread elbow to 3/4" slip 
3/4" male thread to 1/2" hose barb 
3/4" female thread to 1/2" slip
3/4" female thread to 3/4" slip
3/4" to 1/2" reducer X2 
airtight container of appropriate size
tube of silicone.

*size used for small aquariums. use larger for aquariums over 20 gallons.
**be sure to buy enough PVC. the filter demonstrated is right behind the aquarium on the stand so I needed under 4 feet. being under the aquarium in a stand it'll be a lot more. 
*** you can also use flexible tubing which would be a little bit easier in some cases.

I couldn't find all of the 1/2" PVC joints I needed in 1/2" so that is why I have 3/4" with 1/2" reducers.

Hopefully this was helpful and I hope you enjoyed reading and looking at the photographs. 

Please let me know if you have any questions, I'll be more than happy to answer them to the best of my knowledge.


----------



## ben314z (Jan 11, 2009)

:icon_eek: is that a brass valve?


----------



## Centromochlus (May 19, 2008)

Wow, very creative! I've never seen anything like it. Nice job!


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

It is a brass valve. is there something I should know about brass and fish/shrimp? I thought that only copper was bad...


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

Thanks fishkid!


----------



## ben314z (Jan 11, 2009)

Yeah i'm afraid brass is just a mixture of copper and zinc. Both can be toxic in an aquarium environment, especially if you inject CO2 and create mildly acidic conditions. I would replace that with a PVC valve asap. Luckily the threaded fittings shouldn't make that too hard.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

now I get to redo the outflow then! oh joy :icon_cry: lol 

thanks for letting me know I'll replace that as soon as possible. sadly I am busy for the entire week and will not have time to stop at home depot of lowes... I guess no filter is better than having dead fish.


----------



## ben314z (Jan 11, 2009)

Sorry man. Kudos on trying something new though. A lot of things we take for granted every day started out as DIY projects.


----------



## kid creole (Dec 25, 2008)

I didn't know about the brass valve either. Still looks like a nice little diy.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

all too true. I'll go down and buy a PVC valve as soon as I can. I started out with a PVC valve but it got stuck fully open and was pushing the water out of the aquarium...I'll have to search around for a good PVC gate valve this time.


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

As much as I always commend DIY projects, I bet you could have purchased a Tom's canister filter for less then the amount you spent on parts.

Fun anyway though. Why even have a valve at all on the outflow??


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

to restrict the flow of water going into the aquarium. it is only a 2.5 gallon aquarium. rather small for an 80GPH pump.


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Hmmm. So you force back pressure against the power head to restrict flow? I am not a fan of that, but whatever suits your needs.

In the future, something to consider would be to do what people with sumps do, add in a bypass loop that goes back to the filter. Then by adding in a throttling valve, you force flow back into the filter as opposed to just creating "extra work" and back pressure against something that is not designed for throttling.

Will post up a picture in a few to show you what I mean.


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Here is what I am talking about. You use two valves.

Have them both wide open at first, as you throttle flow down to tank, the back pressures is lifted from the power head and bypass water is "re-filtered" through filter.

You can then even throttle that down a bit to keep things tidy (if needed).


----------



## Hipuks (Mar 14, 2008)

I'm making a DIY canister filter too, though unlike yours, mine will look like it was put on by a poorly trained monkey. I'll copy your idea of cutting the intake tube like you did if you don't mind. Do you think using a plastic screen on the end of it would be the same as using sponge? I don't want to reduce the flow of the intake.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

*Hipuks,*

go ahead and run with it, I don't mind people using the design so long as you do not sell it. (as if anyone would buy it!) 


*gmccreedy,*
I think I see issues with the design you showed.. 
if I have two valves on the line one for slowing down the flow rate and one for the rate of the bypass how will the pump suck water from the aquarium? if you have a pipe going from the aquarium directly into the outflow pipe and into the filter wont that create more problems for the pump? (i.e not filtering the majority of the water due to less resistance in the bypass)
the pump has a sliding cutoff thing on the housing not allowing a lot of water through the pump isn't the valve doing the same thing by just cutting off the amount of water the pump is pushing? 


The way the filter works (for anyone) is I fill it up completely (to the top of the filter so water is flush with the lid. once it is completely full to the 12 cup mark the pump is plugged in and it pushes water through the lines thus creating a suction. once the suction is created it pulls from the only other open end which is in the aquarium. 
I think it is much different than a sump but I don't know because I have never used one. they are not 100% airtight either right?


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

The outflow line is the one with the valve correct?

All I was saying is this... (you don't have to agree with me):

You have the valve on the outflow line. You are "turning it down" to restrict the amount of flow getting to the tank. This creates back pressure on the pump. These little pumps can handle some resistance, but I was only suggesting, why not remove the resistance all together. 

So instead of just "restricting the flow to the tank, re-divert the "now converted backpressure" into a diversion pipe pack into the inflow of the filter.

If you don't get it, don't sweat it. Was only a suggestion.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

well maybe I don't get it because of my long work and weird work hours...I'll take a look in a week when I can actually get more than a 5 hours of sleep. 

I am all for making the design better so any suggestion I want to take seriously and at least see in theory if it'll work. Thank you for your suggestion I'll look at it again when I sleep more.


----------



## jargonchipmunk (Dec 8, 2008)

the redirected water effecetively slows both flows down. With the one valve, you're slowing the outflow, increasing pressure on the other side, since the pump always wants to pump at the same speed. If you add the second valve, the pump will be moving water at its top speed all the time, and it's up to you how much of that water movement goes in the "endless loop" the redirected water creates, vs. how much water moves through the normal way. This way, if you only want, say 50gph moving through your tank from the filter, but the pump wants to push 90gph. The pump still gets to push 90, and you only have to have 50 flowing through the tank, since you can make the other 40 go into the "endless loop" to be recycled.

My only worry with this is heat. If this pump creates any heat in the water, this method will increase contact time with the pump significantly. I guess if you're not running into issues with the temp now, it shouldn't increase too much with this addition.

I'm no plumber but I think that's what he was suggesting.


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

jargonchipmunk,

Thank you... exactly where I was going with all that. Good point about the heat though!


----------



## demosthenes (Aug 23, 2008)

what pump did you use on this? how much did it cost?


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

I got it for free actually. my grandmother was throwing away a fountain that she never used and i took the pump from it before it went into the trash. 

I can look at the make of it if you want but it is a generic 80GPH pump. 


Thank you jargonchipmunk. I have no heater on this aquarium and I use two T5 8watt bulbs (fixture is 2" away from the surface) and the water is warmer than room temp. (which is 73 right now) so it may be heating up.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

I went out today to get the PVC 1/2" gate valve but not one of the specialty plumbing store nor the homedepot or lowes had it. 

There is one last place i am going to tomorrow that could have it and if not then UPS is coming to my house!


----------



## Pinto (Jan 23, 2009)

That is so awesome. Never thought this was possible.
Yes everything did start out as diys. Thanks for refreshing my memory ben314z.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

Ok, well a few days ago I went into Lowe's to pick up a 5 gallon bucket. they happened to be next to the plumbing parts...well I found a CPVC dump and waste valve. (I think thats the name...) anyway, so I bought it for $4.00 and then two other fittings. 1/2" slip to 1/2" thread (which will fit onto PVC). 

Previous valve









New valve









Fittings needed to make the valve work









This is not the best thing, but it will work fine and turns easily. 









all the parts including the smallest piece of pipe I could find. ($1.50 for 5 feet)









measured the length of pipe needed by placing the valve on and marking the length of pipe that would enter the fitting









Glued and ready.









make sure to wrap teflon tape on the fittings.









Complete finally...










so now I can put fish/shrimp in the aquarium! I am glad that I can now without worrying about their health.


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

Nice, 
I just read through the whole tread and was wondering what you did between February and now? Were you running the brass valve? Or did you have some kind of other filter on the tank? Just curious...

I like your canister filter, even if it may have been cheaper just to buy one. 
Sometimes it is not about money 

I must say, that I have never seen a gate valve in PVC like this. Most PVC valves are the 90 deg ball valves, that would be hard to control. 

On the whole flow restricting the pump issue, you could check if you can find a pump chart for the pump (unlikely, i know) you could then see how much head would be required to reduce the flow rate to what you need. You can then in turn find out if the pump is capable of working in that load scenario. If yes, fine, if not you may be buying more pumps


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

In regard to what I have been using...I was just using the brass valve...everything was doing alright for a while but the shrimp kept on dying and not producing babies. the two make endlers died as well sadly. (though they would have been culled if I were a select breeder.) I liked the brass valve much better, including the handle, but this was as close as I am goign to get. 

no leaking or reduction of the suction. the smaller CPVC valve is restricting the flow perfectly fully open so now the valve will only be used to keep water in the pipes for instant start.


----------



## PDX-PLT (Feb 14, 2007)

FBG said:


> *Hipuks,*
> 
> go ahead and run with it, I don't mind people using the design so long as you do not sell it. (as if anyone would buy it!)


FYI, just so you know, there's nothing legally prohibiting anyone else from selling copies of this, should they choose to do so (unless you happen to have a patent on it).

Also, about that CPVC valve:

It appears you used regular Schedule 40 (white) PVC pipe with the (beige) CPVC fittings. This is not a good idea. PVC and CPVC are two different systems with slightly different sizes. Schedule 40 PVC is sized based on the IPS (Iron Pipe Size) system. Its inner diameter is sized the same as iron pipe of the same trade size; i.e., a 1/2" piece of Schedule 40 has an I.D. of close to 1/2". PVC cannot tolerate hot water and thus is not used for indoor plumbing.

CPVC is acceptable for use with hot water. It is sized according to the CTS (Copper Tube Size) system The relevant dimension is the _outer_ diameter, which is the same as that as copper tubing. PEX tubing, now used for most new residential plumbing, is also sized this way. 

So in the case of 1/2" CPVC tubing, the the O.D. is .625" (5/8). Constrast that with the O.D. of Scedule 40 PVC pipe, which is .840". In other words, 1/2" PVC won't fit into 1/2" CPVC fittings. It's tempting to try to use 1/2" PVC pipe with 3/4" CPVC fittings, since the fittings are designed to work with tubing with an OD of 7/8" (.875"). It'll fit, but it'll be loose. If this was a full-pressure system, it would probably leak.


----------



## FBG (Oct 17, 2008)

PDX-PLT said:


> Also, about that CPVC valve:
> 
> It appears you used regular Schedule 40 (white) PVC pipe with the (beige) CPVC fittings. This is not a good idea. PVC and CPVC are two different systems with slightly different sizes. Schedule 40 PVC is sized based on the IPS (Iron Pipe Size) system. Its inner diameter is sized the same as iron pipe of the same trade size; i.e., a 1/2" piece of Schedule 40 has an I.D. of close to 1/2". PVC cannot tolerate hot water and thus is not used for indoor plumbing.
> 
> ...


I am not sure if I am incorrect or if you are, but I would bet I am on this matter. 

I knew that CPVC is a different sized pipe. So I went to the fitting section and found the PVC fitting I had on the filter. then fit the two together. Before the Teflon tape it was a tight fit...whether or not this is by chance or because i found a CPVC-PVC fitting I do not know. But what I do know is that the 1/2" PVC male thread fits well on the 1/2" CPVC female thread. 

I will keep na eye out for changes in the system in case the fittings do fail, if they do I'll have to order another valve over the internet that is PVC. Thank you for alerting me to the potential problem PXD-PLT.


----------



## PDX-PLT (Feb 14, 2007)

Sorry about not being clear: there's no problem mixing CPVC and PVC _threaded_ fittings. Or brass, copper, or galvanized fittings for that matter - they're all the same size. The problem potentially arises if you mix PVC and CPVC in a glued (welded) connection. From the pictures it looks like that was done in one instance, although it may just be because the colors are off. In a low-pressure use like this is might be OK, but at house plumbing pressures (>40 psi) it would be really asking for trouble.


----------



## CardBoardBoxProcessor (Sep 17, 2006)

nice car 0__O


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

CardBoardBoxProcessor said:


> nice car 0__O


It did come across my mind to say that, too


----------



## Deja_Vu (Jul 4, 2009)

Wouldn't it diffuse C02 better if you put it on the inflow instead of outflow? 

Seeing as how the canister is air tight, or should be; that gives a longer time for the C02 bubble to be in contact with the water. Not to mention all the times it comes into contact with your pot scrubbers, egg crate, ect. will diffuse it even more into the water. It just makes sense to me.

I made a DIY canister filter out of one of those old Country Crock butter containers. I had the line from the C02 bottle running through my inflow, didn't seem to have any adverse effects at the least.


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

You make a good point... you should be able to get close to 100% efficiency this way. 
With the powerhead on the bottom of the tank there is very little chance it will "airlock" the pump, which is the most common concern with running the CO2 into canister filters...


----------



## Deja_Vu (Jul 4, 2009)

I thought that exact thing when I did mine. Here's what I did:

**First, I should mention that the pump I chose was able to run in-line, or externally, thus not having to have the pump in the filter, and being able to add the C02 to the canister, which is after the pump. This eliminates "airlock" **

Instead of having the inflow at the top and outflow at the bottom, I had mine switched around. It has it's pro's and cons, but as long as everything is air tight and secured, it shouldn't be a problem to do it this way.

The reason I chose to do it this way, was because I knew I wanted to incorporate my C02 injection through the canister filter to maximize diffusion, it also makes room in the tank from any diffusers not being there (can make a huge difference in nano tanks). 

I made a separate insertion on my bucket/container, right next to the inflow insertion. I chose to put the both the C02 line and inflow line on the bottom for two reasons.

1. If it's by the inflow, the C02 must travel throughout the filter, thus creating better diffusion.
2. Gas is lighter, thus it will attempt to rise, and going with the flow of the water, the C02 will be more inclined to being "forced" upon something in the filter, hopefully dispersing it throughout the water more effectively

Like I said, as long as everything is nice and air tight, and building integrity was not sacrificed for sake of time, then there should be no problem having inflow at the bottom and outflow at the top.

I was also thinking of incorporating a smaller, simple HOB filter, who's only media was either more polishing pads, or more bios.

I mainly use HOB's for surface tension so oils don't build up on the water surface.

If you were to put the outflow of the canister filter leading to the inflow of the HOB filter, the C02 dispersed water would travel through the impellers of the HOB filter, possibly dispursing the C02 even further.

At one time, I also just had the canister filter separate from C02, and just had the line from the DIY C02 bottle running to the inflow of the HOB filter and using the propellers on that for my only means of dispersion.

Both of those last two techniques could be argued against however, arguing that alot of C02 would escape as it leaves the HOB filter.

Either way, just giving my input on possibly making that nice DIY canister you made more effecient. =D


----------



## Deja_Vu (Jul 4, 2009)

Hmm... I was just thinking over my plans for my DIY and came to a road block. Instead of opening a new thread, ill just post here (sorry to threadjack you lol).

The pump I will be using is a Quiet One model 1200 pump. I got a good deal on one ($10) so I will just be using that. 

I plan to use the pump inline, meaning it will look like this: = means tubing [] means pump

Fish Tank ======== [] ======= Canister

The problem I am seeing arising is the power of the pump. It is rated at 296 GPH. The tank it's going in is a 20 gallon long. I am thinking that this flow will be too powerful going back into the tank, and possibly disturbing substrate/plants.

I want to add one of those ball joint pressure regulators that you are using, but my question is:

Will it work better/safer if I put pressure regulator before the pump or after the pump?

If it's before the pump the setup will look like

Fish Tank ===== X ==== [] ===== Canister

= meaning tube X meaning the regulator and [] meaning canister

Tell me what you think?


----------



## C2C (Apr 7, 2009)

That is soooo cool
i was goingg to do the same thing but with a taller container cause mine is a blue lid as well.

the only thing diffrent i was going to make it gravity/trickle style, not pressurized


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

The type of pumps we use can run for hours with the outlet mostly blocked, but if you block the inlet more than slightly, the pump will cavitate and destroy itself eventually. This means you do any flow regulating downstream of the pump, never upstream.


----------



## rfd515 (May 13, 2009)

Like the above stated, put the ball valve on the outflow. And putting outflow restriction on a centrifugal pump does no harm to the pump. It will use less wattage accordingly and shouldn't harm the life of the pump.


----------



## hamstermann (May 10, 2007)

To get the power cord through such a small hole, did you have to cut and then rewire it? what did you do to re-seal and waterproof it and make sure that it can't be pulled apart again? 

I know you used silicon to fill the endcap for the leakproofing, but (assuming you did cut then re-wire and did it on the end of the cord that is not inside the canister) what did you do to prevent water from getting into the wires should something leak or should water spill along the cord during a water change, etc? I would think that electrical tape wouldn't hold up tp much water so wouldn't use that, necessarily.


----------



## Airphotog (Aug 21, 2009)

Here is a great place to buy fittings and valves. http://www.mcmaster.com/#
When you drill through your plastic I would use some kind of bulkhead fitting. They are made for exactly what you are doing.


----------



## jlundquist (Oct 9, 2011)

*Heres my canister filtler*

http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-aquarium-canister-filter/

took some time getting it just right


----------



## Rich Conley (Jun 10, 2008)

Gatekeeper said:


> Hmmm. So you force back pressure against the power head to restrict flow? I am not a fan of that, but whatever suits your needs.
> 
> In the future, something to consider would be to do what people with sumps do, add in a bypass loop that goes back to the filter. Then by adding in a throttling valve, you force flow back into the filter as opposed to just creating "extra work" and back pressure against something that is not designed for throttling.


 
Gatekeeper, you misunderstand the physics of how simple centrifugal pumps work.

Doing what you're suggesting is actually more work on the pump than restricting the outflow. Seriously, put it on a watt-meter and check it out. 

Common aquarium pumps actually run cooler, and at significantly lower wattage when throttled back a bit (on the output, always)


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Rich Conley said:


> Gatekeeper, you misunderstand the physics of how simple centrifugal pumps work.
> 
> Doing what you're suggesting is actually more work on the pump than restricting the outflow. Seriously, put it on a watt-meter and check it out.
> 
> Common aquarium pumps actually run cooler, and at significantly lower wattage when throttled back a bit (on the output, always)


Agreed! They don't produce much pressure at all, so throttling them just means reducing the flow through them, and their power consumption is roughly proportional to the flow rate they are driving.


----------



## kahoproductionz (Dec 8, 2009)

giving me some ideas here... OP good thread brotha


----------

