# Measuring CO2 Levels?



## Erloas (Dec 14, 2009)

A drop checker is the most practical way to measure CO2.


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## msc (Mar 10, 2008)

Do a search for, drop checker. The charts are not very good to go by.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

Yep, I have one of those, but I'm still interested in exactly how much CO2 is in the tank.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

The reason I'm asking is I'm getting a lot of algae and I've read that can be a sign of low CO2. I only run my CO2 for 7 hours a day, but I'm having trouble getting the drop checker to change to green before the photoperiod ends and without really pushing the CO2.


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## bkrivera (Feb 16, 2010)

u going to have to raise ur co2 levels u always want to maximize ur co2 as soon as ur lights come on. some ppl start there co2 2hrs b4 the lights come on. My co2 in my tank will b at top level after two hrs after coming on i keep the lights on for 10hrs with the co2 and i have a ph controller which controls my co2 system. Also whats ur specs on lights tank size and nutrients? what is ur nitrate level? do u have phosphate in ur tank?? what type of algae do u have???


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Add this to your bookmarks:

http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm

Give a list of algaes and all the casues and solutions to get rid of them!


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

If the drop checker is in an area of good movement, you want it green to lime green BEFORE the lights come on. So, you need to have it turned up. how are you diffusing? 

I use my fish as a limit. I slowly adjust it up, say, 1 bps every 5 hours, until they show signs of distress, I then back it down just a tad, and add an airstone for 20 minutes to help them. Then watch them again. If they show no signs of distress at that "almost killed my fish" level, then leave it. The goal is to have more than enough, not "enough".


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

Specs
29 Gallon Tank
72 watts of lights (1) 6,700K, (1) 10,000K
Nitrate 0
Phosphates: Unsure. How do you test that?
Algae Type: BGA, GDA, Staghorn


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

kcrossley said:


> Specs
> 29 Gallon Tank
> 72 watts of lights (1) 6,700K, (1) 10,000K
> Nitrate 0
> ...



Nitrates should not be zero if you are dosing EI, which you are. Phosphate test kits are worthless. 

I would bump your co2 up. How are you diffusing? It needs to be green to lime green when the lights turn on, not at the end of the day....

Start by bumping up co2. I would also consider temporarily dosing some excel to help. New tanks often get algae and constant changes aren't going to help................................................................. 



Try to focus on stability. Push your co2 to the limit, and then just barely back down so your fish are safe.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> If the drop checker is in an area of good movement, you want it green to lime green BEFORE the lights come on. So, you need to have it turned up. how are you diffusing?
> 
> I use my fish as a limit. I slowly adjust it up, say, 1 bps every 5 hours, until they show signs of distress, I then back it down just a tad, and add an airstone for 20 minutes to help them. Then watch them again. If they show no signs of distress at that "almost killed my fish" level, then leave it. The goal is to have more than enough, not "enough".


Diffusing with one of these: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-diffusers/diffuser-5000.html

Currently, I'm turning the CO2 on 1 hour before lights on and off 1 hour before lights off. CO2 indicator is blue when lights come on. Today I really pushed the CO2 to the point where there must have been 5-6 BPS, which helped get my CO2 levels up, but only after 4 hours. Maybe the diffuser is not working for me. I notice a lot of forum members use reactors.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> Nitrates should not be zero if you are dosing EI, which you are. Phosphate test kits are worthless.


They are. Why do you suppose that is?


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> I would bump your co2 up. How are you diffusing? It needs to be green to lime green when the lights turn on, not at the end of the day....


So what's the maximum BPS I can do?


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

kcrossley said:


> So what's the maximum BPS I can do?


100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

or atleast till the tubing blows off the diffuser!


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> I would also consider temporarily dosing some excel to help.


How much for a 29 gallon tank?

Sorry, I can't figure out the blasted multi-quote.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

Craigthor said:


> 100000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
> 
> or atleast till the tubing blows off the diffuser!


Don't temp me.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

For the Excel jsut follow the directions on the bottle.

Craig


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## tyler79durdan (Jan 23, 2010)

You can estimate and check with the checker by getting a water report from your city, and using a co2 calculator like this one http://csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm 

and inputting your pH level read from the controller you just bought, and the KH reported in the report.

I did this and it matched almost exactly, when checked against the drop checker.

My average KH for my tap water is 285 ppm, and my controller keeps my tank pH @ 7.3... This gives me a reading from the calculator of 24.057ppm co2...

Ok most people dissagree with this method but Ive checked it against my drop checker and im in the green, so I can safely assume this calculator is close...

Ok be-head me now guys...


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

Man, this hobby is tough, and expensive. That SeaMonkey Kit I was gonna buy more than $600 ago is looking pretty sweet right about now. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LihMtfUu7qM


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Step one... quit running that silly airstone... There is no need for it if co2 is off at night.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

tyler79durdan said:


> You can estimate and check with the checker by getting a water report from your city, and using a co2 calculator like this one http://csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_co2chart.htm
> 
> and inputting your pH level read from the controller you just bought, and the KH reported in the report.
> 
> ...



This chart is what the drop checker uses... The hard part is assuming that there are no tanic acids or other things effecting pH and kh.

Also, KH is not constant. Expecting it to be what your water report says is impossible. It will change with rainfalls, seasons, etc.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

over_stocked said:


> Step one... quit running that silly airstone... There is no need for it if co2 is off at night.


:thumbsup:


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## riverrat (Jul 14, 2005)

I will probably get slain for this but here it goes. 

Drop checkers are only to help you get close. Thats it. They are not a fail-safe option. Going by eye is truly the best way and this takes some experience. 


There are so many variables in Co2. Bubble rates can't really be compared from one tank to another. Circulation is different......surface agitation is different...... plant biomass is different.......diffusion methods are different........ect...

Only use your bubble count to dial in your own Co2. My bubble count is very high I would bet its 6 bps maybe 8bps. Truth is I do not even use a bubble counter anymore. Co2 is cheap so I do not care. I prefer to have some surface movement. How does my bubble count compare to others? I don't care and it is not relevant.

I have used a drop checker with 4dh water but my drop checker has always had to be yellow for my plants to flourish and algae to be kept at bay. I have used them but mainly to get me close to the desired levels. I then watch for fish behavior, algae growth and plant growth. 

Easy enough. If bba is growing at all my Co2 is not high enough. Thats a indicator for me. If Co2 is high enough bba will stop in its tracks. I would have to prune whats left out or use Excel spot treatment ect.... to get rid of what was there to begin with. 

It seems that everyone wants a simple answer to fix the problems in there tank including myself at one time. Whether its a bubble count ...... a fert level......a certain substrate.....on and on.

I tasted success fairly quickly with my first setup. Seemed easy then after several changes in setup and equipment then I struggled for a long time. Became to dependent on other peoples success. Their bubble counts. Their fert regimes. What fancy regulator and filter , diffuser, reactor,injector, drop checker blah blah blah blah they were using instead of what I was doing.

Only your tank conditions matter is my point. When you are doing the correct things you will know. This counts especially for Co2.
Without good levels of Co2 things go bust for me quickly.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Like I said... use your fish... Literally go to the point of them gasping, then back it down a hair.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> Step one... quit running that silly airstone... There is no need for it if co2 is off at night.


LOL 

I'm impressed that you remembered I was doing that. Okay, no more airstone at night. It was annoying anyway.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> Like I said... use your fish... Literally go to the point of them gasping, then back it down a hair.


What does a fish gasping look like?


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## bkrivera (Feb 16, 2010)

kcrossley said:


> They are. Why do you suppose that is?


nitrates should b between 10 - 20. If u keep it there u could avoid BGA algae

u can increase it by using flourish nitrogen


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

But what if it's a new tank. Don't I have to wait for the tank to cycle before I get a nitrate reading?


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

riverrat said:


> I will probably get slain for this but here it goes.
> 
> Drop checkers are only to help you get close. Thats it. They are not a fail-safe option. Going by eye is truly the best way and this takes some experience.
> 
> ...


OP this is very solid advice, regardless of one's setup and will probably save you alot of time, money and frustration if heeded.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

Agreed. 

It's clear I'm going to have to find out what formula works best for my tank before I become proficient at this hobby. Thanks to everyone who took the time to comment. I really appreciate the help and advice.


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## IwantToScubaInMyTank (Mar 10, 2010)

craigthor, that link about algae you sent is extremely helpful.. Thanks a bunch.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

IwantToScubaInMyTank said:


> craigthor, that link about algae you sent is extremely helpful.. Thanks a bunch.


I missed that post. You're right. That is very helpful. Thanks Craig!


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

I just checked this website http://www.theplantedtank.co.uk/algae.htm and I may have misdiagnosed the algae types. I'll take a look tomorrow and update this thread.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

kcrossley said:


> But what if it's a new tank. Don't I have to wait for the tank to cycle before I get a nitrate reading?


NO. You are dosing EI, right? It has Nitrates in it... If you are down to zero, it means you need to dose more. Are you dosing EI or PMDD? If PMDD, I strongly urge you to go EI. In the end, you will be much, much happier. I have mentioned before that I use PMDD, but it is because I am a sadomasochistic and punish myself. It took months to get it set how I need to, and it is in a medium tech tank. Technically it isn't even PMDD. 

You can not use PMDD premix to dose EI, it is just too complicated. EI is really, really easy, far easier than dosing PMDD really is.



kcrossley said:


> What does a fish gasping look like?


Most fish at the surface, sucking air... As soon as you see this, turn the co2 back and then put an airstone in for a bit to degass some co2. Then watch again. Never change co2 settings when you aren't around to see.


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> NO. You are dosing EI, right? It has Nitrates in it... If you are down to zero, it means you need to dose more.


Yes, dosing EI per your recommendation: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...sing-ei-setup-29-gallon-tank.html#post1021794

Here are the specifics:

29 Gallon Tank
Monday, Wednesday, Friday
5 ml Seachem Flourish
1/4 tsp Iron Chelate (Fe)

Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday
1/4 tsp Potasium Nitrate (KN03)
1/16 tsp Mono Potasium Phosphate (KH2P04)
1/16 tsp Potasium Sulphate (K2S04)

Saturday
Off

In the link above you recommended no GH Booster, but that may have been before I decided to use RO water. Please let me know if any of this is incorrect or needs adjustment.

Thanks,
Kelly


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

How long has your tank been setup? What kind of substrate?


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## kcrossley (Feb 22, 2010)

Eco-complete. Only a few weeks.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/t...-29-gallon-biocube-journal-5.html#post1019912


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## tyler79durdan (Jan 23, 2010)

over_stocked said:


> This chart is what the drop checker uses...
> 
> Also, KH is not constant. Expecting it to be what your water report says is impossible. It will change with rainfalls, seasons, etc.


Dont know about your report but mine is based on a semi annual average.

I agree that it can change, but when measured and recorded monthly, and an average posted every six months, I can assume by looking through the prior reports, that this average is accurate!

This is an average but the scope is small in my local water supply.:icon_wink


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