# My first planted tank is up and running



## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Hi guys!

Ok, finally got my planted tank started, low tech with MTS and white sand substrate. It has been up for a little over a week now. I'm totally new to this so have been playing it by ear and following the advice I receive here and slowly absorbing what I read. 

So, here is my setup - 

Tank - 164g - 5.5ftx2ftx2ft (custom but not built for me, bought second hand)
Pump - Fluval FX5
Heating - 2 x 300w running at 26 degrees C/78.8 degrees F (tank sitting at 25 degrees C at the moment
Lighting - 1 x twin 4 foot T8 (40w x 2) and 1 x twin 3 foot T5 (39w x 2)
Substrate - White sand and MTS

Plants - 
3 x Giant Vallisneria
2 bunches - straight Val
10 x Wisteria or could be Ceratopteris Cornuta (i'm really bad at these names)
1 x Anubias (just 1 of these)
10 x Bacopa Caroliniana (i think!)
5 x Cabomba (not sure what type)
1 x Cryptocoryne undulata
10 x Hygrophila guianensis (right in the middle of the tank?)
20 x Ludwiga repens
5-10 x Java Fern
heap of Microsword
Not sure on the other foreground plant

There's more in there but I just don't know what they are, my local PS sold me some Purple Crinkle and Aluminum before I found out what they were and yanked them. That's where the gaps are btw.

Ok, so now to my questions 

What temp should I be running at?
Is my lighting adequate for the tank size and plants?
I haven't had any algae yet, should I be worried or happy?
When would I start adding fish?
PH is running at approx 7.5, no ammonia, nitrites or nitrate showing in tests yet, is this ok?
What other plants would you guys suggest to fill gaps and flesh it out so to speak? Or do I have too much already and should I just let it grow out now?

Oh yea, the rock on the driftwood, even though I've had the wood soaking for a month it still isn't fully waterlogged, so i had to put the rock there to keep it down. The rock is blue-stone, which from what I've read is inert.

Ok, so now for some pictures - 


























































Sorry about the quality of the images, will get some better shots asap.

Cheers
Grant


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Hi Grant, very nice start, I love the furniture. My experience with sand hasn't been great, not very plant-friendly, and difficult to keep looking good. Might be bad for your canister filter too.

Looks like you've got a few terrestrial plants in there, like the Dracaenas, I'd pull those out before they drown, and put them into a planter on your windowsill.

The Java Ferns will do better with their rhizomes out of the substrate, you can stick/tie/staple those to the wood for example.

Regarding your questions...
_
What temp should I be running at?_

25C is a great temperature for tropical tanks, I'd say between 24 and 26 is about optimal for most plants (and many fish). Some, like Discus for example, like it a bit warmer, around 28C.

_Is my lighting adequate for the tank size and plants?_

Hard to say without seeing the details, like reflectors, but I'd say you are in the "low light" area where many plants will grow just fine. Give it some time to evaluate.

_I haven't had any algae yet, should I be worried or happy?_

Neither... give it another 3 weeks and report back. 

_When would I start adding fish?_

Once you notice your (aquatic) plants growing, you can start to add fish. Always add them in small numbers, to give the filter and bacteria time to adjust.

_PH is running at approx 7.5, no ammonia, nitrites or nitrate showing in tests yet, is this ok?_

At some point you want a bit of nitrates to show up, to give your plants something to chew on. For very low light plants, regular stocking and feeding might be sufficient for that, your plants will let you know.
_
What other plants would you guys suggest to fill gaps and flesh it out so to speak? Or do I have too much already and should I just let it grow out now?_

I think once you pull out the terrestrial plants what you have there is pretty good. Monitor plant growth closely for a few weeks. If it is (too) good you might come to a point where they run out of nutrients, which isn't a good thing. All this depends on actual light levels in your tank which are difficult to judge from far away.


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Hi Wasserpest, thanks for the reply. Which exactly are the terrestrials, I got suckered into Purple Crinkle and Aluminum first off but I took them back to my LPS, I really hope they didn't just turn around and sell me a different variety!

Cheers
Grant


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## milesm (Apr 4, 2006)

the darker green foreground plants look like mondo grass, another terrestrial plant.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

That, and the plants with white-striped leaves. If you google Dracaena or Lucky Bamboo you should get some pics.


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Ok, i'll get rid of both of those. Kind of dissapointing that the LPS sells these as aquatics, makes it very hard for the beginner to be sure of what to buy


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Yeah, it's a pretty common thing. They say "but customers want these plants". They think "great way to ensure repeat business".


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

So with the true aquatics, I have them tied together in groups of 5, should I seperate them into singles and sort of clump them together, or just leave them in the 5 group?


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I'd separate them and plant in groups. Tied together they might start to rot at the bottoms. The microsword should be fine as it is.

BTW I am no geologist but I noticed some of your rocks look a bit marbley... some rocks can leach calcium carbonates so that's something you might want to look out for, unless you have really soft water and want to get some CA in there, or unless I am wrong and the rocks are inert.


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Well, the LPS sold them to me as inert, but then again they sold me Purple Crinkle and Aluminium as aquatic so who knows! How can I test them?


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

If you have access to muriatic/hydrochloric acid, you can drip a drop of that onto the rock. If it "fizzles" it is an indication for the presence of CaCO3 which will increase water hardness.

Going the other way around, you could measure the hardness (GH) of your tap water with a kit, and compare that to the tank water. If the same long term, no problem.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Wolf35 said:


> Ok, i'll get rid of both of those. Kind of dissapointing that the LPS sells these as aquatics, makes it very hard for the beginner to be sure of what to buy


For what they get paid you can't expect them to know much. Thus it is best to research before you go shopping. 

Great start. I just feel you need some small rocks or wood in the front. 

What lights are you using?


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## guppygolucky (Nov 9, 2009)

You can also do the same test with vinegar too, in the event you don't have HCl or Muriatic acid. It's not as strong though, but it's common.


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Ok, so following Wasserpests I've pulled the terrestrials and planted them in the garden and placed the Java Fern on the driftwood. 

I replaced the terrestrials with Amazon sword, another bunch of thin Val and some Water-sprite.



> Hilde: What lights are you using?


Hi Hilde, i'm using the following lights (AL40D and HDD-900B)

http://www.transaquariumsonline.com.au/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=46
http://www.aquariumsrus.com.au/lights/dalbarb.htm

I really do need something in the foreground and was going to try to carpet it, but given the size of the tank is that feasible?

What rocks would you suggest using?

Also, my tap water is very Alkaline, should I be doing anything else to lower the PH other than dosing with Sodium Phosphate-monobasic?

Oh and I bought some fish, just a few tetras and platy's, just had to have something in there, couldn't wait 

Some snails have hitched a ride with the plants also, they seem to be doing well.

Here is what the tank looks like with the additions and subtractions - 

























All suggestions very welcome as to how I can make this tank better, as stated I'm a total novice and really appreciate the advice you guys give me.

Cheers
Grant


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Wolf35 said:


> I really do need something in the foreground and was going to try to carpet it, but given the size of the tank is that feasible? What rocks would you suggest using?
> 
> Also, my tap water is very Alkaline, should I be doing anything else to lower the PH other than dosing with Sodium Phosphate-monobasic?


What else are you dosing the tank with? I would stop dosing the Sodium Phosphate-monobasic. I found in my tank that phosphates decrease the nitrates. I would dose with CSM+B (Copper, Iron, Magnesium sulfate, Molybdenum, Zinc, and Boron). Dose at least 2 Tbs weekly. Can be bought at aquarium fertilizer. Don't try to decrease the ph with chemicals. Just keep it balanced. Don't get any fish whom genetics have been manipulated, like gold Apistogramma. They are delicate.

If you are going to use rocks use slate for it won't affect the ph. I found river rocks make my water more alkaline. I think small pieces of wood would look best though. I have found some browsing a small independent pet store. I didn't attempting get would from outdoor for read that would outdoors in a city has pollutants in it.


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Hilde said:


> Don't try to decrease the ph with chemicals. Just keep it balanced.


Won't the high PH be harmful to the fish though? Was trying to get it as close to neutral as I could. Should I not worry about it and let it find it's own balance?


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## rickztahone (Jul 20, 2009)

Wolf35 said:


> Won't the high PH be harmful to the fish though? Was trying to get it as close to neutral as I could. Should I not worry about it and let it find it's own balance?


 trust me, some of the best advise i see given is this one, to stay away from pH buffers and the like products. There are sensitive fish out there but most have been breed to adapt to nearly all pH ranges.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

rickztahone said:


> trust me, some of the best advise i see given is this one, to stay away from pH buffers and the like products. There are sensitive fish out there but most have been breed to adapt to nearly all pH ranges.


Yes stay away from the buffers. You will end up going on a yo yo for they work temporary and then the ph goes up again. Take a sample and let it sit for 24hrs and then test it. After it gasses you may find the ph is lower. You could also trying adding 2 gallon of distilled water when you do water changes.

Most fish are bred in captivity thus they can adjust to what you have. Some like rams Dwarf Cichlids are sensitive, especially if you get a color that has been scientifically manipulated. For example I have apistograma, dwarf cichlid. One was gold and didn't survive. The red one is doing fine.


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## Wolf35 (Aug 31, 2010)

Ok cool i'll do that. I was thinking of sourcing more Anubias on wood similar to the left hand side piece and adding that to break up the front, do you think this would be enough?


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