# Walstad Method: Using ADA Amazonia without gravel cap help??



## Petri (Jul 12, 2013)

Hi guys, I'm quite new to the Walstad Method.

My setup is using ADA Aquasoil Amazonia (powder) and NO GRAVEL CAP. No filter. No CO2.

Someone advised me to use ADA soil without gravel cap, which I did.

1) Any issues with using ADA Amazonia powdered type without gravel cap?? Or should I quickly drain all the water and remove all the plants and put a gravel cap on top of the soil?

2) I actually don't plan to have a filter, but now the water is yellowish and there are debris/wood chips or something from the soil and layer of oil on the surface of the water. Can I use a filter temporarily for mechanical and chemical filtration and later on remove the filter once the water is crystal clear?

3) Refer to the above. Use a filter to remove the yellowish colour or do a full water change? Full water change would be a total nightmare as it will totally disturb the powdered soil making the water yellowish again...

Appreciate all your help guys. Thanks !!


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## JusticeBeaver (Oct 28, 2017)

Petri said:


> Hi guys, I'm quite new to the Walstad Method.
> 
> My setup is using ADA Aquasoil Amazonia (powder) and NO GRAVEL CAP. No filter. No CO2.
> 
> ...


1) Not that I've heard of. You don't need to cap it at all.
2) You can use a filter temporarily if you want, the dust will settle at some point but a filter will definitely speed that process up a bit. Also the only way to remove the wood and stuff is to net it out. 
3) Personally I think you're better off doing water changes and monitoring ammonia when you do them. When I used aquasoil I had a huge spike up to about 5+ ppm which I think caused a lot of my plants to melt and retard my cycling process.


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## FuryMonkey (Nov 5, 2017)

Yellowish water is due to tannins and other organics that have dissolved out of the soil - completely normal and expected. Regular WC will eventually take care of it, but with some soils (I don't know about ADA) it can take a few months before water is crystal clear. I used Purigen after a few weeks of doing WC because the tank still had a slight tint - it cleared it up in under 48hrs.

Obviously filters aren't necessary when using appropriate fish loads, but unless it's a nano tank I do recommend something to move water, at least at first. The plants will benefit from a slight current and it will help ensure the soil is receiving sufficient oxygen. It will also reduce the surface scum build-up.


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## Petri (Jul 12, 2013)

For the both of you, may I ask if I could use something like API Quick Start which contains beneficial bacteria to speed up the cycling of my tank (where I will remove my filter)?



JusticeBeaver said:


> 1) Not that I've heard of. You don't need to cap it at all.
> 2) You can use a filter temporarily if you want, the dust will settle at some point but a filter will definitely speed that process up a bit. Also the only way to remove the wood and stuff is to net it out.
> 3) Personally I think you're better off doing water changes and monitoring ammonia when you do them. When I used aquasoil I had a huge spike up to about 5+ ppm which I think caused a lot of my plants to melt and retard my cycling process.


Thank you so much for the input!!

I'll be using a filter temporarily to remove the colouration of the water and to filter the debris/particles in the water.



FuryMonkey said:


> Yellowish water is due to tannins and other organics that have dissolved out of the soil - completely normal and expected. Regular WC will eventually take care of it, but with some soils (I don't know about ADA) it can take a few months before water is crystal clear. I used Purigen after a few weeks of doing WC because the tank still had a slight tint - it cleared it up in under 48hrs.
> 
> Obviously filters aren't necessary when using appropriate fish loads, but unless it's a nano tank I do recommend something to move water, at least at first. The plants will benefit from a slight current and it will help ensure the soil is receiving sufficient oxygen. It will also reduce the surface scum build-up.


Thank you so much for the advise and input!!


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## FuryMonkey (Nov 5, 2017)

Dosing beneficial bacteria wouldn't hurt, but it's really unnecessary with these types of tanks. The plants will carry in all of the necessary bacteria to get the tank cycling and all of the organic matter from the soil speeds the process along.

I'd only ever recommend those products to someone building a completely inorganic sterile tank that doesn't have access to used aquarium water from another tank and is desperate to get the tank cycled and filled with fish.


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

I agree with @FuryMonkey you really don't need any of those products when doing a planted tank. If your using AS, the AS has a ton of Ammonia as stated. You do regular water changes to keep those levels low and you plant your tank. Keep doing water changes until you get the ammonia down before adding livestock. 

The plants have plenty of bacteria on them. If you take your time and add fish slowly, do water changes, you technically don't have to worry about a "cycle."


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## Petri (Jul 12, 2013)

Thank you guys again!

Got a question. I measured my ammonia levels and it was 4ppm. There are no livestock, only plants.

Should I still do a water change or just leave it as it is ?



FuryMonkey said:


> Dosing beneficial bacteria wouldn't hurt, but it's really unnecessary with these types of tanks. The plants will carry in all of the necessary bacteria to get the tank cycling and all of the organic matter from the soil speeds the process along.
> 
> I'd only ever recommend those products to someone building a completely inorganic sterile tank that doesn't have access to used aquarium water from another tank and is desperate to get the tank cycled and filled with fish.





houseofcards said:


> I agree with @FuryMonkey you really don't need any of those products when doing a planted tank. If your using AS, the AS has a ton of Ammonia as stated. You do regular water changes to keep those levels low and you plant your tank. Keep doing water changes until you get the ammonia down before adding livestock.
> 
> The plants have plenty of bacteria on them. If you take your time and add fish slowly, do water changes, you technically don't have to worry about a "cycle."


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## FuryMonkey (Nov 5, 2017)

I haven't actually ever measured ammonia/ammonium - for all my tanks I set them up, waited until the water cleared and the plants started growing well (usually about a week) and then started adding fish very slowly. 
I only test for nitrates every now and then to ensure my WC are being done often enough.

4ppm seems very high and suggests the nitrogen load is far above the plant's growth rate since that's their preferred source (nitrate/nitrite needs to be reduced which requires work/energy by the plant).
I'd recommend the WC and adding a few fast growing plants to help get things stabilize.


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## Petri (Jul 12, 2013)

FuryMonkey said:


> I haven't actually ever measured ammonia/ammonium - for all my tanks I set them up, waited until the water cleared and the plants started growing well (usually about a week) and then started adding fish very slowly.
> I only test for nitrates every now and then to ensure my WC are being done often enough.
> 
> 4ppm seems very high and suggests the nitrogen load is far above the plant's growth rate since that's their preferred source (nitrate/nitrite needs to be reduced which requires work/energy by the plant).
> I'd recommend the WC and adding a few fast growing plants to help get things stabilize.


Thanks man. I did a 50% water change and the ammonia levels didn't drop lol.

Just wondering what would happen if the ammonia levels continue to be such high levels? Would it cause my plants to melt or something?


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## JusticeBeaver (Oct 28, 2017)

Petri said:


> Thanks man. I did a 50% water change and the ammonia levels didn't drop lol.
> 
> Just wondering what would happen if the ammonia levels continue to be such high levels? Would it cause my plants to melt or something?


Depends on the plant but 4 ppm is really high. I would keep doing water changes until you drop it down to 2 ppm at least which is plenty to start a nitrogen cycle. That way your plants don't struggle as much, melt, and release more ammonia into the water.


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Those ammonia levels are normal with AS, thus the heavy water change schedule. You should plant from day 1 to help purify the water. ADA recommends daily water changes 1st week, every other day 2nd week, every 3rd day 3rd week and then once a month after that at around 50%. Get the plants growing and looking good before adding any fish and the rest will take care of itself.


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