# I HATE Marineland Canister Filter



## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

I have a Marineland C-160 and have just thrown it out the front door! What an engineering joke. The check valve shut off leaks, the impeller is impossible to maintain, the hoses fall off, and the media baskets don't seat!!! What to get for a 29 G???I am thinking of just going back to a HOB Aquaclear or Eiheim 2213. What is the easiest and least messy to change?


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Easiest and least messy would easily be the Aquaclear. The Eheim wins for quiet efficiency, though you need to clean it much less often, from my experience, than a HOB, so it balances out. The ecco series makes improvements to the ease of use, but the classic series isn't too far behind in that regard.


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## NstyN8 (May 9, 2008)

Whats worse is the Marineland "HOT" filter.
I had a 2213 for my 29 gallon. An awesome filter! So quiet, I had to put my hand in front of the output because I didn't think it was on.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I really like my XP2 on my 29gal. And it's quieter than HOBs.

Easiest to maintain would be the AquaClear, though.

Lunch last week was fun!


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## robbob2112 (Oct 7, 2007)

I have a c-160 and haven't experienced any of those problems... I also have a fluval 305, fluval 405, and a c-360... 

That said, the maint on the fluvals is much simpler than on the marineland filters. They come apart and go back together simpler and you don't have to be super careful to align everything, they just fits together without any fuss. 

For your purpose a fluval 305 should work well. This is what I have on my 46 gallon planted tank.


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## queensalmon (Oct 15, 2008)

have the XP2 on my 29 gal - it's a perfect fit. Easy to clean, get to and shut off. I'm a fan of the price too!

Queensalmon


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

+3 on the Rena XP2. I have an eheim 2213 on a 5.5g tank and the flow is adequite so one on a 29g would be crazy imo. If your going to get an Eheim get at least the 2215 or even the 2217 if money is no problem.


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## rjm (Jul 15, 2008)

I've had a 2213 on my 29 for at least 15 years. It's very quiet, my water is crystal. And I only clean it twice a year (at most). The flow rate might seem low but it hasn't been a problem for me.


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## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

I've got a xp3 on 29 gallon. Still wish I had more flow. I supplement with a koralia 2, but I HATE having that thing in the tank. It's ugly.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

The 2215 gets my vote,however if you plan to add inline accessories the 2217 would be a sure bet on guaranteed adequate flow under any and all conditions.


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## Veloth (Jun 25, 2008)

I had a XP3 on my 29 while I resealed a 55, it worked great. On my Christmas list for another one.


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## chuukus (Jun 17, 2008)

esteroali, can I ask where you purchased the filter? I have the marineland c220 and I think its a great canister. Another question did you get a instructional DVD with the filter?  In my case it took a little getting used to as far as dissasembling cleaning and putting it back together everything has to line up perfect. They could have made these filters a little more user friendly but you get what you pay for. I was thinking of getting 2 c160s now I may rethink this?


robbob2112 Can you see a difference beetween the c160 and the c360 as far as difficulty in doining maintnance on these two filters?


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## robbob2112 (Oct 7, 2007)

chuukus said:


> robbob2112 Can you see a difference beetween the c160 and the c360 as far as difficulty in doining maintnance on these two filters?


Maint is about the same except the trays are larger and there are more of them. I empty them of water, rinse the sponge at the bottom and the filter floss at the top, restack everything and refill with water... makes it easier to align things.... and I am on well water so I can fill it directly from the tap without killing the bacteria.


On a side note, a month after I got the c-360 it crack down into the water outlet tube of the motorhead... I emailed marineland with my problems and pictures and they shipped me a whole new unit.... so the warranty is very good and was very easy to deal with.

If you want to know what the guts look like... here is a thread I did comparing the 405 and the 360.
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165223


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*Marineland C160*

I bought it on E bay and from whom I can not remember. My biggest beef about the filter is....
1. The shut off valve always leaked
2. The hoses were thick and never stayed on
3. Could not figure out how to clean the impeller
4. Very difficult to seat
5. Very low flow for the size of the canister
6. Always sounded like it had marbles in it.

Tell me why I should stay with a canister other than aesthetics?


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## NstyN8 (May 9, 2008)

bsmith782 said:


> +3 on the Rena XP2. I have an eheim 2213 on a 5.5g tank and the flow is adequite so one on a 29g would be crazy imo. If your going to get an Eheim get at least the 2215 or even the 2217 if money is no problem.


A 2213 on a 5.5g is adequate? Sounds like an overkill. 
The 2213 has a pump output of 116 GPH and is suitable for tanks up to 65 gallons.


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

NstyN8 said:


> A 2213 on a 5.5g is adequate? Sounds like an overkill.
> The 2213 has a pump output of 116 GPH and is suitable for tanks up to 65 gallons.


Suitable to perhaps cover the biological filtration needs for an unplanted tank up to 65 gallons, it would be utterly useless on a planted tank of that size in terms of flow rate and mechanical filtration. One must look past the marketing when choosing filters. I agree that 2213 on a 5.5g does seem extreme though.


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## smoq (Feb 19, 2008)

2213 on 5.5g is ridiculous. The filter flow will spill the water from the tank IMO. As for the topic, I praise EHEim for the quality of built and materials used.


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## Mattco26 (Sep 27, 2007)

NstyN8 said:


> Whats worse is the Marineland "HOT" filter.
> I had a 2213 for my 29 gallon. An awesome filter! So quiet, I had to put my hand in front of the output because I didn't think it was on.


What don't you like about the HOT filter? I have one on my 29 and I love it. No problems ever. I just fill the cartridge with pure polyester floss, I don't run carbon or the outer sleeve any more.


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## NstyN8 (May 9, 2008)

Mattco26 said:


> What don't you like about the HOT filter? I have one on my 29 and I love it. No problems ever. I just fill the cartridge with pure polyester floss, I don't run carbon or the outer sleeve any more.


It was very loud. I couldn't get the o ring to fit correctly either; so, it drew air in. Even with silicone grease, it wouldn't function properly. I returned it and got another with the same problem. Perhaps they fixed that glitch.


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*HOB vs Canister*

Why do I want to replace my canister with another canister? I am thinking of getting 2 Aquaclear 70 so I can run in tandem and alternately clean. Anyone???


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## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

esteroali said:


> Why do I want to replace my canister with another canister? I am thinking of getting 2 Aquaclear 70 so I can run in tandem and alternately clean. Anyone???


This is why...Canisters are usually very reliable pieces of equipment. Hold more media than most Hang on Back filters and are quieter.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

If this is the tank you're doing pressurized CO2 on I'd probably stick with a canister.

Otherwise, the AquaClears will get the job done well.


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## NstyN8 (May 9, 2008)

The thing about hand on back filters is surface agitation. You have to keep your tank topped off...


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

I would have to say that I disagree with you on this. If it wasnt for the fact that the filter has little space for media I would have them on all my tanks. Love that unit. Does a great job of polishing the water.




NstyN8 said:


> Whats worse is the Marineland "HOT" filter.
> I had a 2213 for my 29 gallon. An awesome filter! So quiet, I had to put my hand in front of the output because I didn't think it was on.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Filter material is cheaper as well. Although the Aquaclear sponges seem to last a very long time.




helgymatt said:


> This is why...Canisters are usually very reliable pieces of equipment. Hold more media than most Hang on Back filters and are quieter.


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## chuukus (Jun 17, 2008)

esteroali said:


> I bought it on E bay and from whom I can not remember. My biggest beef about the filter is....
> 1. The shut off valve always leaked
> 2. The hoses were thick and never stayed on
> 3. Could not figure out how to clean the impeller
> ...


Im definetly not saying you shoud change your mind about the c160. Im sorry to hear your having all these problems with it. I guess when buying these filters without warranty its luck of the draw. I may be able to help you with some of your problems since I have the c220 and from what I can tell they are almost identical.

1. the shut off valve doesnt have the o-ring on it when you get it in box mine came with a little vasoline type grease on it to ensure there will be no leaks

2. the hoses go on much easier if you put them on hot water before putting them on also mine came with hose clamps, yours did not?

3. the impeller, when you take the top of the canister off underneath you should see an arrow take your thumb and forefinger and twist until it stops the impeller should come right out.

4. like robbob2112 says if you stack the trays and fill it with water then install all trays at once I find it much easier.

5. I cant help you there

6. mine also sounds like this but just for a few seconds when you plugg it back in after maintnence. maybe you can take the impeller out and try it agian. I would hate to see you give up on the filter so fast. If your that frustrated and decide to sell it pm me ill make you an offer.


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## Mattco26 (Sep 27, 2007)

NstyN8 said:


> It was very loud. I couldn't get the o ring to fit correctly either; so, it drew air in. Even with silicone grease, it wouldn't function properly. I returned it and got another with the same problem. Perhaps they fixed that glitch.


Huh, I've had mine for a few years now, I don't use any grease, and I've never had a problem.


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## jinx© (Oct 17, 2007)

I haven't used the newer marineland canisters, but I've owned both the magnum 350 and HOT in the past, and found them both to be pretty well built and reliable filters. 
The biggest issues IMO (and also most likely your noise issue) was getting all the air out of the systems. (Which can happen with all canisters IMO)

A couple more reasons I find canisters to be better than HOB types (Other than the great examples already given) is that you have a lot more control over the flow in your tank. Inputs/outputs can be moved around to suit your needs, whereas an HOB basically dumps water back into the tank directly over its input.
Secondly, but maybe not a big issue to some, is that a canister filter allows you to place the tank/stand a lot closer to the wall than an HOB will.

BTW, a few have said Bsmith having a 2213 on his small cube being overkill etc. It may well be in the numbers department, but I have an old Eheim 2013 running on a 7ish gallon cube and find it to be about perfect in terms of flow and filtration.


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## robbob2112 (Oct 7, 2007)

esteroali said:


> I bought it on E bay and from whom I can not remember. My biggest beef about the filter is....
> 1. The shut off valve always leaked
> 2. The hoses were thick and never stayed on
> 3. Could not figure out how to clean the impeller
> ...


1. sounds like something bad in the shutoff valve, they don't leak normally
2. I don't like the thick hoses, if you are talking about hoses coming off the shutoff or ouput tubes, sounds like you are missing retaining rings or hose clamps that are included new

5. I originally thought "low flow" when I hooked up the 360.. but soon figured out that it wasn't low flow, but low pressure... when I held a gallon container down in the tank and timed it verse the 405 it had twice the flow even though it didn't look like there was much flow.
6. Marble sound is what you get when one end or the other of the impeller shaft is missing the rubber cap. The impeller bumps around in there verse moving a lot of water.

I use the c160 on my 16 gallon hospital tank for 3 reasons:
1. large bio media capacity
2. aesthetics
3. Evaporation control... between my altitude and low humidity I loose an inch or more a day, 2 gallons, to evaporation with a HOB... with a canister and a very tight fitting lid (made one out of clear lexan since they don't seem to make a glass lid for a 16 gallon bowfront)... I loose less than 1/2 gallon a week.

Was your filter new in box off ebay or used?


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*MARINELAND revisited....*

After reevaluating my financial situation, I said many bad words and dragged the C-160 in from the front porch.

1. The hoses are thick and stiff. Tried trimming and hot water but will not stay on. Resorted to massive stainless steel hose clamps that will never slip.

2. Impeller....figured out how to clean. My bad.

3. Baskets still very difficult to seat but it helped alot to clean filter in the bright sun so I could see.

4. Shut off still leaks but a well place wine cork it the outflow hopefully will do the trick.

It is set back up and running, actually quieter than before and I did not spend any $$$. Hopefully I can forget about it for a couple of months. The filter was new from an Ebay buy it now seller in NY. Sealed box.


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## robbob2112 (Oct 7, 2007)

I'd call marineland and talk to them, I give you odds they will ship you a new cutoff under mfg warranty.

http://www.marineland.com/sites/Marineland/CustomerService/default.aspx?id=1916


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

It is not rediculous. It works great and does not spill water from the tank. You might want to reseve your comments to things you have experienced and not assume. You know what they say about opinions...



marcinsmok said:


> 2213 on 5.5g is ridiculous. The filter flow will spill the water from the tank IMO. As for the topic, I praise EHEim for the quality of built and materials used.


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*I STILL HATE MARINELAND!!! Water water everywhere....*

I pulled into the garage and noticed water in the seams of the door. I thought it was odd as it had not rained. I checked the garage ceiling and it was dry. We have had water pipe issues in the past so I sort of conveniently forgot about it. Then I looked at the 29G and though.....boy the water is evaporating fast....DUHHHH!!!
There was a slow leak at the main seal of the canister filter. I CAN NOT seem to get the baskets to seat properly. I have the thick foam on the bottom, then in the middle basket I originally had plastic bioballs and ceramic beads and finer floss in the top basket. The booger seems to be the plastic bioballs. They go EVERYWHERE no matter where I put them. I now have them in the top basket held down by finer floss. HELP!!! What am I doing wrong???? I have it running now and placed the filter in a big aluminum pan just in case.

Now I am determined to make it work..suggestions? Should I ditch the plastic bioballs? If it doesn't leak I am not touching it until I have to clean it in 4-6 months. The aluminum pan may live there permanently.

My husband is terribly thrilled by this whole ordeal and wants me to go back "to the old fashioned filter (HOB)" because it was alot easier.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

bsmith782 said:


> It is not rediculous. It works great and does not spill water from the tank. You might want to reseve your comments to things you have experienced and not assume. You know what they say about opinions...


 Sorry have to agree with the other post that a 2213 is to much for a 5.5 gallon tank. I have a tank that size and a filter and I know I would not put the filter on that tank.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Do you have a 2213 on a 5.5g tank? I do. All four of the "flow controllers" are on full open. I even have the spraybar pointed at the surface and it crates a nice ripple. 

Now, in you two's defence I have modified the spraybar to fit in the Mini-m width wise. I shortened the spraybar by a few inches. I also drilled the holes out so the water will flow at the same GPH but with less pressure (the holes are larger). I have never had it set up with the spraybar un modified. Perhaps if it wasnt the spraybar output would be a too high of a pressure and cause a mess. I dont know.

I will send you a PM.



ZID ZULANDER said:


> Sorry have to agree with the other post that a 2213 is to much for a 5.5 gallon tank. I have a tank that size and a filter and I know I would not put the filter on that tank.


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*Hey!!*

I am trying to fix my filter. Can you guys just start a new thread???


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Thats why I sent him a pm. :thumbsup:

Just get a new filter and dont buy marineland.

/thread



esteroali said:


> I am trying to fix my filter. Can you guys just start a new thread???


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

I was worried I'd have to play armchair moderator and pull out the teddy bears and rainbows.

esteroali, I'm unfamiliar with the filter, but in regards to bio-balls you may well want to leave them out. The typical bioball is really not meant for being submerged in a filter, especially considering that they float. They were designed for use in wet/dry trickle type filters where that floating would be helpful. They may have some bacterial colonization, but I doubt it's really that beneficial in these circumstances. Depending on how many you have you may wish to float them in the tank for a couple of days as a cautionary step.

I agree with the sentiment that you should call Marineland. They sent me an impeller and housing for some HOB monstrosity they make without asking any questions other than my name and address, no cost to me. I don't like their products so much, but the customer service was very good. I haven't doubt that they'd send the parts required to stop the leaking.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Good info.



imeridian said:


> I was worried I'd have to play armchair moderator and pull out the teddy bears and rainbows.
> 
> esteroali, I'm unfamiliar with the filter, but in regards to bio-balls you may well want to leave them out. The typical bioball is really not meant for being submerged in a filter, especially considering that they float. They were designed for use in wet/dry trickle type filters where that floating would be helpful. They may have some bacterial colonization, but I doubt it's really that beneficial in these circumstances. Depending on how many you have you may wish to float them in the tank for a couple of days as a cautionary step.
> 
> I agree with the sentiment that you should call Marineland. They sent me an impeller and housing for some HOB monstrosity they make without asking any questions other than my name and address, no cost to me. I don't like their products so much, but the customer service was very good. I haven't doubt that they'd send the parts required to stop the leaking.


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## robbob2112 (Oct 7, 2007)

I think I left out a handful of the bio-balls in the filter when I first put it together because there were to many in the package and everything wouldn't fit... been a while so I forgot about it until you mentioned it.

If you leave them out and just use the ceramic rings (i.e. replace them with more ceramic rings) it will be a lot simpler to re-assemble.. they float up at the most inconvenient times... 

Tell ya what, when I get home this evening I'll take apart my filter and do the cleaning on it and take pics of the various pieces so you can make sure you have everything and they are all together right.


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*Thanks..*

Appreciate the help. I am trying to fix the problems at hand so "get another filter and don't by Marineland" really wasn't the smartass advice I was looking for.

Ultimately, I may just get an Aquaclear110 until I figure it out.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Is the only reason it's leaking that you can't get the baskets arranged so it will close and seal properly, or do you need a new O-ring (or whatever piece it's using to create a watertight seal between the lid and the base)?


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*I called Marineland....*

Marineland was very polite, said to send the top part back...no questions asked. Will follow up when they get it....


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

It wasnt a smartass comment. It is probly the best advice anyone on here could give you. Im not too big into elaboration because im not the best at typing. Short and to the point is how I do it. Get use to it. Your the one posting in a public forum, try not to get your feelings hurt. 

You were the one who said you threw it out he front door and the title of your thread is " I hate marineland filters"! I have never owned any canister filter other then Rena and Eheim. I have been extremely pleased with both. If you want another I would go with either of those.



esteroali said:


> Appreciate the help. I am trying to fix the problems at hand so "get another filter and don't by Marineland" really wasn't the smartass advice I was looking for.
> 
> Ultimately, I may just get an Aquaclear110 until I figure it out.


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## quasi-starfish (Nov 17, 2008)

I have a Marineland C-220 on my 58 gallon. Re your problem with the bioballs - I'm wondering if you are trying to restack the containers in the canister with water already in the canister? In that case, indeed, it is hard to get everything seated correctly. When I service the filter, I take out everything and empty out all the water, then restack the trays, then refill with water. I also tilt it back and forth a few times to get the air out. Then I put on the top. 

I also took out some of the bioballs as well.

I've had a little trouble with it leaking around the seal - very minor leaking, not flooding, but distressing none the less. That started when I took the LFS advice to vaseline the seal before assembling it, and stopped when I quit lubricating the seal. I also wipe it off really well before putting the top on, to be sure that there are no little snails or whatever that could get between the seal and housing.

I don't have much experience with different types of filters, but it seems to me that this filter is ok, even if slightly cantankerous.


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## sick lid (Jan 13, 2008)

Since I don't trust ANY filter to never leak eventually, all of my canisters reside within their own rubbermaid containers. Won't help if you blow a hose off mind you, but it'll hold a lot of water if you blow a seal or get a crack in the housing.


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## robbob2112 (Oct 7, 2007)

OK, pictures:
1. Hose connection to the cutoff... hoses go down on the barbs and the collars screw up over them to retain them.

2. Impeller assembly removed and taken apart. 2 rubber caps, shaft, impeller, cover, and motor head. I use little pair of needle nose pliers to pull the impeller out. Then stick the shaft back in the hole and pull the rubber cap from the bottom. The other rubber cap was in the cover. If either of the rubber caps is missing it will cause a nasty racket as the impeller bumps around all over.

3. Bottom tray removed and disassembled - grate, tray, 2 sponges, and rubber ring for the top of the tube. To pull the grate, grab the tube and pull up, then swing it out from under the handle. Lets you clean the gunk from under there.

4. Middle tray with bio-balls and rubber ring - not much to do here.

5. Top tray with filter pad - I long ago got rid of the white pad that came with it. It clogged to easy and they wanted to much for replacements. Instead I just use bonded filter media that you cut to fit, enough in each package for at least 10 pads and is easy to rinse if you need to. The C-360 has bio-rings under the pad which helps hold down the tray when the filter is full.


Anyway, net result, empty all water, unstack the trays, clean everything, re stack the trays inside the empty case...The trays all have a little bit different shape and must go back in the same order them cal out... Pay attention to line up the arrows on the trays with the arrow on the case... one tray at a time, make each fit before you put the next on.. When finished fill it with tank water, treated water, or well water if you are fortunate like me, NOT straight tap water as untreated water will kill the bacteria. R&R the impeller to clean it, I put the rubber caps, shaft, and impeller together, then reinsert it into the head and carefully put the cover on making sure to get the rubber cap back in its hole....Fit the motor hosing down... I align the tube from the housing into the hole in the trays and push it all the way down.

All done, go hook it back up, hit the primer a couple of times, an plug it in....

Hope it helps, the filter is really a good one for function even if the maint is a little bit of a pain...


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*Thanks!!*

I am sending the whole thing back to Marineland so I will post a followup later.


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## tominator (Dec 3, 2008)

I've owned several Marineland products, and all have failed my miserably. I had one of those bio wheel filters, motor burnt out in about 2 years. I had a stealth heater, broke in 1.5 years. Replaced that heater with another Marineland filter, and this one got stuck on, heated my tank to 100 F and killed all my fish. I read many good reviews on their products, so I guess I'm just very unlucky. Still, now I'm sticking with Aquaclear.


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## Porkchop (Feb 9, 2009)

I was just wondering what had happened with this filter? I went out looking for something bigger and better than the Eheim 2213 that I was using and found the Marineland C-360. After debating for a few hours and going from store to store, I bought one from Pet Supermarket for 169.00. 

I came home and started thinking of how I wanted to plumb the system, what shut-off valves (if any) I wanted to use, etc. I unboxed the whole shooting match and looked it over and I was rather impressed with that I'd got for my money. That is until I started reading on the net about all the people who were having leaks with this filter system. 

My conclusion is that because of the heavy hose that is used, it is causing the block valve to crack, is this right? This seems to be where the problem is isolated at...it cracks and then leaks out through the inside of the pump's head/motor and then drips or sprays out around the clamp system. I started thinking about what would happen if I left this system unattended and a leak developed...well we know what would happen. 

So what I came up with was to run my pump inlet and outlet out of PVC and I put siphon breaks on each tube about 1/8 to 1/4 under the water level. I drilled 1/8 holes to hopefully cause an air leak in the system should a leak develop and hopefully break the siphon and stop the flow of water and flooding of my house. I routed the PVC do to the under side of my cabinet stand and ended them both with 3/4 barb fittings. So once I get this hooked up, I'll basically only have about 1 foot of hose from the pump. Surely this will take a lot of weight off the block valve and hopefully save it from cracking.

So how did your C-360 experience turn out and what did Marineland do about the pump you sent them back? Does anyone think that my "project" is going to help save me a lot of trouble and water clean up or am I fighting a lost cause?


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## chuukus (Jun 17, 2008)

Porkchop said:


> I was just wondering what had happened with this filter? I went out looking for something bigger and better than the Eheim 2213 that I was using and found the Marineland C-360. After debating for a few hours and going from store to store, I bought one from Pet Supermarket for 169.00.
> 
> I came home and started thinking of how I wanted to plumb the system, what shut-off valves (if any) I wanted to use, etc. I unboxed the whole shooting match and looked it over and I was rather impressed with that I'd got for my money. That is until I started reading on the net about all the people who were having leaks with this filter system.
> 
> ...


Now you are speaking my language the problem you describe with the valve block is exactly what I expected and I have plumbed my filter along the same lines as you have. This eliminates the problem simply by not ever having to touch the valve block assembly, this makes sence to me. 

Although I keep hearing people say Marineland C series filters are JUNK I dont think they are junk. 

I think the problem is that people do not read directions before using the canister. 

I have heard everything from the trays wont stack right to I have had to literally stand on the top of the filter to get the motor housing to seal. Imo if you cant stack 4 trays together and line up arrows then you shouldnt own a canister filter. And if you have to stand on the filter to get it to seat then your trays arent in the filter correctly. 

Some people are just ignorant when it comes to these filters.

Some people must expect the filter to just go together without any thought. 

The filter is together when you buy it so thats the way it needs to be put together every time, Its not rocket science cumon. We need to stop blaming the manufacturer for our own ignorance.


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## Porkchop (Feb 9, 2009)

Well, I too have seen some of the same responses that you are talking about. I think most of the trouble with putting the trays together might have came from the use of the bio-balls. I put the entire pack in mine even though I probably don't need them...they came with it...and they are going to be used. Same thing goes for the ceramic rings or whatever they are called, I'm using them also and used the whole package that came with the filter.

I do see where there is a little trouble getting the upper housing to sit properly on the filter, sometimes. I'm not one for reading directions either, I usually toss them to the side but not in this case. I read about all the problems people are having and then I went and read the directions, twice. I think that maybe a smaller amount of the bio-balls and the ceramic rings would make stacking the trays and putting the upper housing back on easier.

The way I plumbed my system, I kinda screwed up. I used 1/2 I.D. PVC piping when the tubing is clearly 3/4 I.D. and I should stepped up my PVC choice, I think. I haven't put everything together yet but I honestly believe that the 1/4" difference isn't going to make that big of a deal. If anything I know it'll increase the pressure on the system's output...I doubt it'll starve in the intake side of things, we'll see. If so...it's not that much trouble to just buy the parts in 3/4" and just redo the whole thing again.

On my intake side I used a coupling to connect the factory strainer to a piece of PVC that is about 8 1/2" long. That is connected to a 90 degree elbow, a 1 1/2" piece of PVC and another 90 degree elbow. That basically butts the two 90's together without any spacing. Then there is a piece of PVC that is a total of 19 1/2" that goes into a 45 degree connector. Two actually put together with another 1 1/2" piece of PVC to seam the two together without any spacing. Then I have a piece of PVC that is 4 1/2" coming off the last 45 degree connector. That goes into a coupling that steps up from 1/2 I.D. to 3/4 O.D. that allows me to put another 3/4 coupling on so I can use another fitting to screw into that to allow a barb connection for my factory Marineland hose to attach to. Then about 1/8 or maybe a 1/4 under the water line I have the 1/8" hole drilled to hopefully break the siphon should a leak begin, this is drilled into the 8 1/2" long piece of PVC that the strainer is connected to.

The exhaust side from the barbed hose fitting to inside the tank is identical to the intake side except I put a Y PVC fitting inside the tank to direct the output in two directions. One going across the back of the tank and the other toward the front. I figured that would help slow down the flow a little and maybe keep the water from churning too much. It also has hole drilled in it for the siphon break but this Y fitting is only about 3 or so inches under the water level. The hole is the same depth as the intake side, about 1/8 or 1/4 under the water level. So hopefully...I won't have a leak but if I do both sides will break siphon and I'll avoid a flood.

I plan to use J strap to attach these tubing systems to the back of my cabinet stand to prevent them from moving. I thought about using shut-off valves but I figure there is no need considering the filter has one built into it at the block valve assembly. I might add them in anyway...I don't know for sure they though.

I think this filter is very good, it's very quiet...I can't even hear mine running. There is a lot of output as far as volume of flow is concerned but not a lot of pressure which is due to the fact that it has such large hoses. I like the canister filters because you can pack the with whatever you want to for filter media...you don't have to buy the stuff that is made by the company who makes the filter. I've used batting material for stuffing pillows before in my Eheim and the water was super clear even with a high fish load. 

This is long, ain't it? Sorry. Anyway...I'll still have to shut the valve block off to remove my filter for cleaning but I don't think I'll have a problem with it, hopefully. I emailed Marineland before I even opened the box and they've already replied telling me to email them some numbers off the filter to make sure this filter isn't one that I might have problems with. They already said if it was one, they'd send me out the replacement parts to upgrade this filter so I hopefully won't have any problems. You can't complain about that...that's pretty good customer service in my book...they've not ask one question about anything.


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## confuted (Jan 31, 2007)

Porkchop said:


> The way I plumbed my system, I kinda screwed up. I used 1/2 I.D. PVC piping when the tubing is clearly 3/4 I.D. and I should stepped up my PVC choice, I think. I haven't put everything together yet but I honestly believe that the 1/4" difference isn't going to make that big of a deal. If anything I know it'll increase the pressure on the system's output...I doubt it'll starve in the intake side of things, we'll see. If so...it's not that much trouble to just buy the parts in 3/4" and just redo the whole thing again.


1/2" vs 3/4" is a difference of 225% in cross sectional area (and thus how much water can flow at a given pressure) ... you might want to reconsider your choice of 1/2".


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## Porkchop (Feb 9, 2009)

Well that is a big difference...I stand corrected. I don't want to hi-jack anyone's thread but I feel like I'm on subject here, let me know if I'm out of line.

I've got this on a 40 gallon "breeder" style tank. It's not really planted right now cause I seem to not have a "green" thumb. But the idea of the tank is/was to be a planted tank. Do you think that difference would really matter since we're talking about a planted tank? I'm not above redoing things in 3/4" piping but only if I really have to or if I really should. The most important thing I was trying to accomplish was getting away from the heavy and sagging hosing that came with the system. If it's going to really effect the flow of the filter then by all means I will change it now. I still haven't put this on my tank yet and I do have another tank that I think I could use this on and it wouldn't be a waste.


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## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

I think that more than screwing up the flow it will cause unnecessary wear and ultimately premature failure of the filter. Also, sufficient flow to prevent dead spots is a crucial part of maintaining a successful planted tank, regardless of livestock. You'll find that most people have very, very high turnover rates/flow and still want more. In fact, a good majority run multiple canisters in combination with powerheads (sometimes multiple powerheads) to ensure good flow. 

Also, I might suggest you start a new thread - not because you're out of line for posting here - but rather I think you might get more responses. :thumbsup:


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## boltp777 (Jan 16, 2009)

i had no luck with marineland as well i had their eclipse 3 system and the flitration was horrible on it within 3 days it got dirty and i was not overfeeding what so ever. than i replaced it with a tetra whisper for 10 gallons and ever since than its been fine i use it a brackish tank for my fiddler crab and ghost shrimp. Than i set up my 46 gallon hexagon tank wit a marineland mangum hang on cansiter after a month i got rid of it. i tried to change the carbon it got all over the place the filter shot it all out all over the fish tank. Than it stopped working. So i got frustrated with it returned it and got a aquaclear 50 and ever since than everything has been fine. So Marineland should stop making their systems so complicated where putting the lid on it is a hassle and putting in carbon gets all over the place it was just horrible.


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## Porkchop (Feb 9, 2009)

Well what about going with 1 inch I.D. piping instead of 3/4 I.D. ?


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## Porkchop (Feb 9, 2009)

OK...I got everything to do this again in 3/4" I.D. so I should be all set now. Time will tell whether or not the weight of the hose is the factor causing the issues with the block valve. I know that I might just have a good one that will never give problems...but I want to make sure. If I do spring a leak...then we all know the hoses don't play the only role in that problem.


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## kwkoonce (Jun 23, 2010)

*Couldn't agree more*

Terrible filter. Impeller quit working twice. First time, company sent a new impeller, but it took two weeks so I had to buy another filter to keep my tank clean and the fish alive. Second impeller quit working periodically, once during a vacation. Also, the shut-off valve never worked and I had to put he canister into a bucket as it drained water from the tank during cleaning. I tossed the canister into the trash and bought a Penn Plax canister, which has worked flawlessly so far.


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## legomaniac89 (Mar 16, 2008)

Back from the dead :icon_eek:

I have a couple C-160s and a C-220 and I love them. I've had a C-160 running on my 20H for almost 3 years now and the flow is just as good now as the day I took it out of the box. It's so quiet, it's 2 feet from my bed and I can't even hear it running. I don't know if maybe I just got lucky with mine, but I've had zero problems with the Marineland filters so far.


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## Sharkfood (May 2, 2010)

The smaller ID hose will cause drag reducing overall water flow, while also increasing water speed. I don't know that it will necessarily wear out your pump, but it will reduce water flow. Plumbing systems often use reducers to speed up water in showers, etc. This is often the case for venturis also. There's a good chance your inlet and out flow pipes are smaller diameter then 3/4". If you're pumping water uphill, smaller tubing can decrease your head height also ( this likely isnt the case as filters usually are located below the tank ). The longer the hoses, the more drag. You may have noticed if you have ever used a garden hose as a siphon, it's much easier to suck water up over the hump from a 3' hose than a 50 footer. There's really no downside to using larger hoses, so go with the 3/4" if possible. If sag is a problem, you can always clamp or zip tie the hoses at different locations to take stress off the connections. If your filter had ribbed hoses like a Fluval, etc. the smooth interior of the pvc hose will flow better which may alleviate some of the issues with the smaller diameter.


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

I have tried Marineland C-160 I sold it back to Ebay.
Ehiem is the best filter Ive ever use.

My tank runs Eheim 2236 & Classic 2213. They are the best!


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## cichlidude (Mar 18, 2010)

sick lid said:


> Since I don't trust ANY filter to never leak eventually, all of my canisters reside within their own rubbermaid containers. Won't help if you blow a hose off mind you, but it'll hold a lot of water if you blow a seal or get a crack in the housing.


And if you go to Home Depot for $10 you can get a water alarm to put on the bottom.


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