# What's the secret to crystal clear water?



## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

As the title asks, what's the secret to crystal clear water in a planted tank?

-Filter floss changed weekly
-uv sterilizer
-Purigen 
-Flow
-Plants

What methods do you use to achieve stunningly clear water?


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## Culprit (Nov 6, 2012)

Purigen and water changes.


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

Water changes
Cleaning the tank panes inside and out!
Good water movement/filtration so little stuff gets into the filter quickly


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

*Clear Tank Water*

Hello Ty...

The secret is removing and replacing half the tank water every week and using a cut to fit poly fiber that attracts and holds the tiny floating particles that tend to cloud the water. The ammonia medium from Acurel is the best I've used.

B


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

35-50% weekly water changes. Bi-weekly depending on load.

Magnum HOT.

Purigen.

In that order. Crystal clear every time.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

A 5 micron layer in canister filter will immediately clear all water.
Reflux incorporated in canister design will also provide dual polishing.
Everyday 5 micron use is not practical but when really dirty.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

I just take my glasses off and it turns my water crystal clear every time!


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

*Clear Tank Water*



Dead2fall said:


> I just take my glasses off and it turns my water crystal clear every time!


Good one, Dead!

B


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

Dead2fall said:


> I just take my glasses off and it turns my water crystal clear every time!


It does! Also a great algicide.


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## discuspaul (Jul 27, 2010)

- Large, frequent wcs, with substrate vac & tank glass wipe down each time
- Use of Purigen 24/7
- Use of double-layered filter floss, replaced every 2nd week
- Use of fine mesh pre-filter on filter intake(s), rinsed every 2nd or 3rd day
- UV sterilizer helps out too, if you have one


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## Fodder (Sep 15, 2014)

Weekly 50% water changes and about 2 1/2" of filter floss in the canister. I can easily read a newspaper through 3 feet of water.

I believe a contributing factor was getting the Flourite Onyx sand extremely clean before introducing it into the tank. I spent close to 12 hours cleaning two bags of it. Not a fun way to spend nearly an entire weekend but it seems to have paid off. I can stir up the substrate and it will fall completely clear in about 3 seconds flat.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

IMO it has to be waterchanges(sounds like many agree).
If you need to do any other maintenance every week it just doesn't sound right?
I like micron pads in my sump drawers(cleaned every 2-4 weeks)
I like and have used purigen(good stuff)
Some claim UV adds a "sparkle",they crank it with high power(light) medium flow.
Believe it or not I think I get WAY less algae of any kind on glass using gluteralhyde.
I don't even clean front glass every week anymore.
My breeder fry tanks are all air driven sponge filters and none tested over 5-10 nitrates today,before waterchanges.
Waterchanges #1!


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## Gavin Citrus (Aug 2, 2014)

What's the best way to clean the glass? I've always figured razor blade, but it makes me nervous about potential scratches?


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

When I use to change the water weekly it was always clear.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Interesting! Thanks for all your input. 

I do weekly 50% water changes and recently I've added an extra layer of weekly replaced filter floss in my canister. I also use Purigen 24/7. My tank is pretty clear and I'm pretty happy with it. 

Here is a picture down the side of my 6 foot tank showing its clarity:


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Vortex Diatom Filter.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

GraphicGr8s said:


> Vortex Diatom Filter.


What's that? Something out of the saltwater hobby?


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## sadchevy (Jun 15, 2013)

A Vortex diatom filter is similar in design to a magnum 350 filter. It uses diatomaceous earth as a filtering medium. As such it is capable of filtering out very small particles, essentially polishing the water. Very good filters for clearing water after doing maintenance or stirring up the substrate.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

I just thought my water was clear before adding a UV. It made a big difference.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

burr740 said:


> I just thought my water was clear before adding a UV. It made a big difference.


Which uv sterilizer did you pick and why?


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

tylergvolk said:


> Which uv sterilizer did you pick and why?


Have a SunSun 304B canister filter on my 75 gal, which has a built in 9W. Got it about 4 months ago, been really pleased with it so far. Couple months before that, I was having some green water problems on one of my 20 gallons, grabbed one of these to clear it up- Amazon.com : SunSun JUP-01 9W UV Sterilizer Submersible Filter Pump : Aquarium Filters : Pet Supplies It's a little big and bulky to be a permanent piece of equipment in a tank that small, but it works really well too.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

burr740 said:


> Have a SunSun 304B canister filter on my 75 gal, which has a built in 9W. Got it about 4 months ago, been really pleased with it so far. Couple months before that, I was having some green water problems on one of my 20 gallons, grabbed one of these to clear it up- Amazon.com : SunSun JUP-01 9W UV Sterilizer Submersible Filter Pump : Aquarium Filters : Pet Supplies It's a little big and bulky to be a permanent piece of equipment in a tank that small, but it works really well too.


I was hoping you had some info if the filters uv unit actually worked. I have one myself but I've read mixed reviews of the effectiveness of the uv functionality.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

So far havent had any problems. The 304's UV works fine. It knocked this out in less than a week.










Also love the built in surface skimmer. Im sure there are some bum rigs out there, but I think many problems people have with SunSuns are user related. They are not built as heavy duty as say an Eheim. Gotta treat them more like a delicate piece of equipment, with deliberate and slow patience taking them apart and putting them back together, that sort of thing.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

burr740 said:


> So far havent had any problems. The 304's UV works fine. It knocked this out in less than a week.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You said you cleared that with the standalone unit? I agree they're chintzy but they sure do well for the money!


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Dead2fall said:


> You said you cleared that with the standalone unit? I agree they're chintzy but they sure do well for the money!


No I cleared that up with the SunSun, it's my 75 gallon. I cleared up a 20 with the stand alone. Two separate incidents, a couple months apart. 

I see where the confusion came from though by the way I worded it.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Nice!


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

I have a UV 9 watt on the way. Planning on 40 GPH through it.
Home made canister filter with a 5 micron layer cleaned everything.
During substrate dumping and tank set up clear as all could be.







Top plate from 10pm yesterday.
Bottom plate from 4pm today.
I can't use this all of the time, had to switch to a tight foam today.
Used 2 in a 24 hour period during tank setup.
It will clog easily but removes everything, polishing at it's best.

I cut these from a 36" long 8" diameter filter sock.
These are used on a closed loop filtration system.

This kind of material is amazing during an initial tank setup.
My wife questioned if there was even water in the tank.


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

Starting with good water that's not cloudy to start with. I use ro water and that water is very clear. Also like others have said getting as small filtering medium also helps. But for me changing water only helps for a while, it getting to problem and the source of that problem is the key to clear water.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

I change 50





I change 50% of the water weekly and clean filter material each month and water stay's crystal clear for about three days.
Peat in substrate,tannin's from wood cause most of the discoloration in my tank's, but by the time it really start's to bug me,,it's time for water change.
Chemipure was my go to for clean/crisp looking water, but I have not used it for some time.


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## flight50 (Apr 17, 2012)

Dead2fall said:


> I just take my glasses off and it turns my water crystal clear every time!


+1. Me likes, lol.



Gavin Citrus said:


> What's the best way to clean the glass? I've always figured razor blade, but it makes me nervous about potential scratches?


I use a scraper. A 4" wide blade with handle that you get from like a paint department at the hardware store. Does the trick perfectly as I have been using it for 2-3 years without any issues. Hold it at a 45 deg angle and slide downwards toward the substrate. It helps to do it on a regular bases to prevent harder algae from attaching itself.


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## photoman (Mar 28, 2010)

sadchevy said:


> A Vortex diatom filter is similar in design to a magnum 350 filter. It uses diatomaceous earth as a filtering medium. As such it is capable of filtering out very small particles, essentially polishing the water. Very good filters for clearing water after doing maintenance or stirring up the substrate.


Used to work at an LFS when I was a high school kid. One of my jobs was to go tank to tank with the diatom filter and keep thinks looking good. They were a pain in the butt, and honestly surprised they're still made or that anyone would need or use one.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

photoman said:


> Used to work at an LFS when I was a high school kid. One of my jobs was to go tank to tank with the diatom filter and keep thinks looking good. They were a pain in the butt, and honestly surprised they're still made or that anyone would need or use one.


Yeah, seems a bit of a hassle, but a UV sterilizer something worth while for some people. Not me though because I can't justify the cost. My water is plenty clear for my liking. I enjoy hearing what other peoples methods are for clearing up their water.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J4CnMWfQfc0
Here is a video showing how Joey polishes his water. I find it more practical to just add a layer of the stuff inside the filter, but some people might now have canister and therefore this method may be useful.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

A Magnum HOT with diatomaceous earth does wonders to foggy water. Not really a permanent solution, but if you want it to sparkle...


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

photoman said:


> Used to work at an LFS when I was a high school kid. One of my jobs was to go tank to tank with the diatom filter and keep thinks looking good. They were a pain in the butt, and honestly surprised they're still made or that anyone would need or use one.


They're still made in Florida. With a home made H valve for loading the DE it is very simple to use. It filters down to 1 micron. During ich's free swimming stage it will even remove that. Want to remove Malachite green of Meth Blue? Grind up some activated charcoal and add it to the filter. It's gone to clear water in a matter of minutes.

Backflush them and they're cleaned up. Very easy to use when you know how.


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## harp (Oct 8, 2014)

Gavin Citrus said:


> What's the best way to clean the glass? I've always figured razor blade, but it makes me nervous about potential scratches?


I use a clean (new, dedicated to the tank) toothbrush. No worries about cutting me or a plant with a razor blade. I keep a separate toothbrush for each tank.

With a combination of otos, shrimp, and purigen I clean the glass maybe every two weeks. Low tech, low-medium light though so it's never been a big challenge for algae control.


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## LynneS22 (Oct 16, 2014)

tylergvolk said:


> As the title asks, what's the secret to crystal clear water in a planted tank?
> 
> -Filter floss changed weekly
> -uv sterilizer
> ...


Not sure if anyone else said it, but you also need a strong good bacteria presence.


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## fishbone11 (Sep 11, 2014)

On previous tanks I have had, algae was always a hassle requiring weekly razor blade scrap downs of the glass. That was done with no problems.
This new tank has very little algea problems. Every few weeks I can see some haze on the glass if I look close. For that I use a MAG gizzy that slides across the glass and wipes off the haze. Much easier than my old razor routine. 
Then again, I'm not sure a MAG scraper would have removed the algae I had years ago.


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## LFM (Sep 18, 2014)

Culprit said:


> Purigen and water changes.


+1

It's worth stating that Purigen does more than just polish your water as well. I strongly recommend using it.


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## LFM (Sep 18, 2014)

Culprit said:


> Purigen and water changes.


+1

It's worth stating that Purigen does more than just polish your water as well. I strongly recommend using it.


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

What about biomax?


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## LFM (Sep 18, 2014)

Neatfish said:


> What about biomax?


Yeah I'm not plugging any one company or brand. I did my own research but there comes a time where you just have to make a decision and go with something and that something was Purigen. I'm very pleased with it and all the other Seachem products I use as well. Since I've never used Biomax I can't comment on it.


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## LFM (Sep 18, 2014)

fishbone11 said:


> On previous tanks I have had, algae was always a hassle requiring weekly razor blade scrap downs of the glass. That was done with no problems.
> This new tank has very little algea problems. Every few weeks I can see some haze on the glass if I look close. For that I use a MAG gizzy that slides across the glass and wipes off the haze. Much easier than my old razor routine.
> Then again, I'm not sure a MAG scraper would have removed the algae I had years ago.


Possible thread drift but I can say from first hand experience that Phosguard works great in combating algae. I have my aquarium in front of a huge north facing window that gives my aquarium tons of indirect natural light on top of my artificial lighting and so far for as long I've had my tank going (7 months) I'm at ~3 month intervals where I would even consider scraping algae off my aquarium walls.


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## ShukiAi (Jan 20, 2015)

Could someone please tell me how to use Purigen? I have a HOB filter, can it be used in one? I know a lot of you have said you have canister filters. Thanks!


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## sushant (Mar 3, 2007)

just drop in the bag of purigen or carbon in the filter chamber, I prefer using them this way as it's much easier to add or replace them.


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## LFM (Sep 18, 2014)

ShukiAi said:


> Could someone please tell me how to use Purigen? I have a HOB filter, can it be used in one? I know a lot of you have said you have canister filters. Thanks!


I use an AquaClear for all my chemical filtration media for a couple of reasons. I try disturb my canister filters as little as possible so as not to disturb the biological processes in it. You can see when the Purigen has been saturated from its colour where you can't with a canister filter although now that I've used Purigen I can tell when its been exhausted when the aquarium water just won't have that nice polish to it even after a day after a water change. AquaClear filters have one nice big chamber to house media (as opposed to other power/HOB) so you can drop other types of media in there as well.

If you're gonna go with bagging Purigen yourself I'd strongly recommend getting Seachem's The Bag because its the only filter bag that I know of that will stop all of the Purigen beads from escaping. Purigen is a very fine media.

Don't throw the exhausted Purigen away after its been exhausted either. It can easily be regenerated saving you lots of money.


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## Gold Finger (Oct 13, 2011)

For me the secret is an old sponge filter. They scrub water of particles when they are mature. That and carbon or purigen for discoloured water. 


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## bsantucci (Sep 30, 2013)

Filter floss and purigen. Hands down.


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## BigJay180 (Jul 20, 2014)

I clean my glass by wiping it with a wet paper towel, a strong one that doesn't disintegrate. Once per week, I give it a 15 minute 'wipe down' of all the inside glass.

I've ruined two tanks with razor blades, scrappers, and those glass wrecking mag float things. Never again. I use an old Costco card to get the sticky stuff at the sand surface. It works.

Weekly water changes and a heavy plant load keep my water clear. I don't use floss or carbon, but my canister filters have foam blocks.

My substrate is activ flora black, it's heavier than sand and doesn't go up the Python during water changes.

How does Purigen work? I'm concerned about using anything that could pull out nutrients the plants need.


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## Gold Finger (Oct 13, 2011)

Five Ottos in my 20G keep the glass absolutely spotless. I keep the tank over lit to produce food for them. They survive but I never see algae. 


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## Gold Finger (Oct 13, 2011)

Will post a pic of one starting to clean diatoms from a leaf. The leaf was floating emerged and went un cleaned for a while. It took about three days to become covered in thick brown film. The Otto wiped it clean in about 60 seconds. They are ravenous!


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## Gold Finger (Oct 13, 2011)

Mmmmm.... Slime. 


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## Gold Finger (Oct 13, 2011)

If you zoom in and look at the leaf section below the fish you can see just how clean it left the leaf. 


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## LFM (Sep 18, 2014)

BigJay180 said:


> How does Purigen work? I'm concerned about using anything that could pull out nutrients the plants need.


I do pretty basic dosing for my plants and eyeball test says it does not pull any nutrients out because my plants look great. More importantly from what I can say from experience is that it does not mess with your biological filtration process at all. In a nutshell it only absorbs organics and NOT inorganics.


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## discuspaul (Jul 27, 2010)

[QUOTE
How does Purigen work? I'm concerned about using anything that could pull out nutrients the plants need.[/QUOTE]

Here's Seachem's description of Purigen:

"Purigen is a premium synthetic adsorbent that is unlike any other filtration product. It is not a mixture of ion exchangers or adsorbents, but a unique macro-porous synthetic polymer that removes soluble and insoluble impurities from water at a rate and capacity that exceeds all others by over 500%. Purigen controls ammonia, nitrites and nitrates by removing nitrogenous organic waste that would otherwise release these harmful compounds. Purigen's impact on trace elements is minimal. It significantly reduces redox. It polishes water to unparalleled clarity. Purigen darkens progressively as it exhausts, and is easily renewed by treating with bleach.
Purigen is designed for both marine and freshwater use."

I've been using it 24/7 in my discus tanks for about 4 years and wouldn't be without it. The tanks are crystal clear all the time, and my plants grow very well.


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## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

A note on UV Sterilizers.. turn them off for 2-4 hours after dosing as they can mess up your ferts. 
Denatured so to speak.


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## Ach1Ll3sH33L (Mar 1, 2012)

Healthy plants, established filter, and proper maintenance should be all you need really. If you have wood that leeches tannins it can make the water a bit yellow looking, purigen is good for reducing this effect. Overdosing ferts like iron/phosphates can also give you a cloudy looking tank.


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## Blackheart (Jul 5, 2011)

IMO the best way to have crystal clear water is by having a heavy plant load and by over-filtering your tank with a reliable system.


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

Agreed with above. Loads of mechanical and biological filtration, UV filter, purigen, plus water changes. You can also use floc the day before a filter clean.


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

Guess the main thing is keeping up with W/C's. I add prime and it makes the water turn dark Probably use a cap full per 10g.


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

Neatfish said:


> Guess the main thing is keeping up with W/C's. I add prime and it makes the water turn dark Probably use a cap full per 10g.


That is approximately 5 times the amount of prime needed. Not sure why the water should turn dark, that doesn't sound right. Prime is sodium thiasulphite and is a very strong reducing agent that will also remove oxygen. This may cause iron or other organics to precipitate out of solution. I would drop your dosing to the 1 cap per 200L (50G) recommended dose.




Chlorophile said:


> A note on UV Sterilizers.. turn them off for 2-4 hours after dosing as they can mess up your ferts.
> Denatured so to speak.


Interesting. Yes, you're right, I never thought of this. The main issue would be chelated iron complexes in the planted tank as I can think. I will remember this. Thanks


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

So maybe one drop per 10g?


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

Neatfish said:


> So maybe one drop per 10g?


Well, no, you'd want to use 2ml per 10G new water. So if you do a 50% water change, add enough prime to fill the cap to the first thread on the screw cap. Each thread is 1ml.


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

Been doing a cap full didn't know that.


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

Neatfish said:


> Been doing a cap full didn't know that.


Its not the end of the world, just a waste and potentially will remove all the oxygen in the tank temporarily.


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

This last time I only added maybe a small drop so it should be good for now.


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## Gold Finger (Oct 13, 2011)

Prime is 2 drops per gallon. If you are de chlorinating the new water in a bucket dose only for the volume of the bucket, say 10 drops in a five gallon pail. If you are adding tap water straight to the tank then adding prime you have to dose for the total amount of water in the tank not just the new water volume. 20 drops is a mL. In perfectly clean water it will reduce oxygen after chlorine(amine) in nutrient rich water it will go after other molecules before the O2. Use caution when de chlorinating a large percentage of new clean water before adding it to the tank it can wipe out the oxygen. 


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

I went after the Purigen and "The Bag" this weekend.
I thought my tank was crystal clear, even better now.
It is some amazing stuff but very small media.


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## 1987 (Jan 27, 2007)

UV and Purigen


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

Been trying some of those bio rings the water is 10x clear.


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