# Fluval Edge...



## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Just got a fluval edge recently and have intentions of creating a scape with seiryu stones and a baby tears carpet. Was wondering what kind of upgrades I need to make to the lighting. Had 



 in mind but am not sure if that will be sufficient. Also baby tears are a co2 requirement even in a 6g edge right?
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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Tagged to see what light you get. I just started setting up an Edge tonight! I need the MR16-style bulbs, too, unless I throw in the towel and buy the 42 led 16gal fixture and swap it in.

Most people seem to want supplemental lighting beyond what you can do under the hood, though. The hood seriously limits getting good light all the way to the corners. There are some really good DIY mods that take little away from the tank, though, adding LED strips around the outside of the hood to light the edges more evenly.

See the official Edge mega-thread here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=95967&page=126 The last post (at the moment), mine, #1883, quotes an earlier post with the best looking mod I've seen.

I was under the impression, however, that everyone seems to go for 6500k LED lighting. Is there a specific reason (could be, this is new to me) that you're looking at 6000k (there is a 7000k option linked below, I see), or is that just the one you found first? (for instance this one seems more powerful, and is slightly higher color temp)


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> Tagged to see what light you get. I just started setting up an Edge tonight! I need the MR16-style bulbs, too, unless I throw in the towel and buy the 42 led 16gal fixture and swap it in.
> 
> Most people seem to want supplemental lighting beyond what you can do under the hood, though. The hood seriously limits getting good light all the way to the corners. There are some really good DIY mods that take little away from the tank, though, adding LED strips around the outside of the hood to light the edges more evenly.
> 
> ...



Na it was just the first one that I saw in a thread... I don't know a thing about these as of yet, but the link your provided to that thread is very insightful. I'll keep digging and see what my best option is.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

It's the same price as the Fluval official light (42 LED 12 gal version), and much more light, so on a whim, I ordered the Fluval Nano light (84 LEDs!!!):

Amazon.com: Hagen Fluval Nano Aqua Life and Plant Performance LED Lamp: Pet Supplies

I'm not sure if it will fit under the hood or not, but if I can make it fit, replacing the OEM lights, this should be great! If not, oh well, I can always return it to Amazon.


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> It's the same price as the Fluval official light (42 LED 12 gal version), and much more light, so on a whim, I ordered the Fluval Nano light (84 LEDs!!!):
> 
> Amazon.com: Hagen Fluval Nano Aqua Life and Plant Performance LED Lamp: Pet Supplies
> 
> I'm not sure if it will fit under the hood or not, but if I can make it fit, replacing the OEM lights, this should be great! If not, oh well, I can always return it to Amazon.


This is for the 12g correct? Are you trying to fit it to the 6g? If so I'd like to know the outcome...


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## MantisX (Aug 25, 2004)

Whatever happened with this light? Did it work? I'm probably gonna go with the 42 led replacement and call it a day if not.

MantisX


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Aquahollics said:


> This is for the 12g correct? Are you trying to fit it to the 6g? If so I'd like to know the outcome...


It's not technically designed for either. It's designed for a standard tank. (normal rectangular, non-capped)

As for which Fluval Edge tank it's intended for, that's irrelevant: The 6gal and 12gal tanks both use the EXACT same lighting setup (and the exact same HOB filter). This is one reason why the 12gal tank is even harder to light, and filter, than the 6 gal tank: it uses the exact same equipment to process twice as much tank!

Here's the deal: This light DOES "fit" under the hood. Kinda. And yes, it's considerably better, IMO, than the stock lights. But it's not a perfect fit: It's literally about 1/4" too tall to fit "comfortably" under the hood. It hits the forward edge of the HOB filter, so the back of the hood is held up about 1/4" towards the back. I think it will be possible to modify the light (and/or the HOB filter) to work, however, since it's so close. Worst case, fire up the bench grinder and remove a little bit of the aluminum heat sink material off the back of the light. Best case, it may be able to be disassembled a bit to remove some housing, although it may need to be re-sealed (a little silicon sealant should do) after disassembly. Definitely going to void the warranty, which sucks (5 year warranty!), but hey, it WILL work.

At the moment, I'm literally using some cotton string _through_ the metal grill on top, and have simply tied the light in place, holding it tight to the top of the hood. Not using the stock armature at all, obviously. I'll set something up a little nicer using wire or something later, once I've exhausted all options as for modifying the light and have a final position in mind.

OEM Halogen lighting:









Upgraded to Fluval Nano light:









As you can see, it's not _perfect_ lighting, even with double the LED count compared to the OEM LED lights (double the 42 LED 12gal light, _quadruple_ the 21 LED 6gal light!). But some light actually reaches the corners, unlike the stock Halogen, and the light is also considerably more even throughout the tank.

I may end up DIYing some supplemental lighting (see my post a few above) as well, but I want to see how this goes first. I re-scaped the tank a bit tonight, and added a number of new plants, so we'll see.


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Thanks for the insight! Actually hadn't got around to buying a light yet and getting the tank started up but your thread has inspired me =)


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Just ordered the 42 LED replacement, substrate, ferts, and some HC. I'll follow up in a few weeks with a progress pic to show how well the light works for an HC carpet.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Looking forward to seeing it!


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Just got the Fluval fixture today... Def not made for the 6 gal edge tank but very easily modifiable. The steel arm that the fixture attaches to has to be cut down and a new hole drilled and that's it! Lights up the tank significantly better than the stock led fixture for sure. Pretty satisfied with it, just need my aquasoil and plants to arrive and see how well it really works! Ill continue to post pics as the plants progress.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Oh! I see what you're doing. That's not the 42 LED replacement, btw (which is an armature just like the stock lights you removed, but 2x as many LEDs, made for the 12gal Edge), that's the Fluval light sold for standard tanks, with 84 LEDs!

I got the same light, and I like it a lot. That said, what are you doing about filtration, given that you've mounted it where the stock filter goes?


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> Oh! I see what you're doing. That's not the 42 LED replacement, btw (which is an armature just like the stock lights you removed, but 2x as many LEDs, made for the 12gal Edge), that's the Fluval light sold for standard tanks, with 84 LEDs!
> 
> I got the same light, and I like it a lot. That said, what are you doing about filtration, given that you've mounted it where the stock filter goes?


Bought a little nano canister filter on ebay for $30 just planning to run the tubes up through the back... The only disadvantage will be having the intake so close to the return. Given the gph output and the size of the tank I don't see any potential issues though.


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## Notorious93 (Jun 3, 2013)

I was doing the same thing you were...I found it much easier to tear off the top pane of glass and make it rimless. Unless you are doing a low light plant setup, the edge is a pain in the buttocks with lighting


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Notorious93 said:


> I was doing the same thing you were...I found it much easier to tear off the top pane of glass and make it rimless. Unless you are doing a low light plant setup, the edge is a pain in the buttocks with lighting


Of course it's easier without the top, but the top is the entire point of the tank. A simple 6 gal rimless tank with an AquaClear 20 is a LOT cheaper than an Edge, but doesn't offer the primary feature of the Edge: The view from the top.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Aquahollics said:


> Bought a little nano canister filter on ebay for $30 just planning to run the tubes up through the back... The only disadvantage will be having the intake so close to the return. Given the gph output and the size of the tank I don't see any potential issues though.


The only issue is oxygen content. With the small opening, the splashing action of the AC20 HOB filter turns out is pretty important to avoid gasping fish. A few people in the mega Edge thread tried switching to canisters and ended up adding back the AC20 simply for aeration. I'm sure you could add a simple airstone and achieve the same goal, but it's something to keep in mind.

Actually, considering I have a spare Finnex PX-360 canister filter laying around unused, that's an interesting idea. It would certainly simplify feeding, since currently I have to shut off the HOB filter while feeding, else it blasts all the flake into the tank within seconds. Hmmm...


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## Notorious93 (Jun 3, 2013)

Lol ironically my buddy just gifted me the light aquaholics put on his, so I'm going to Re-attach the top pane of glass and see how it turns out by modifying it the same way he did. I'm going to be converting the tank to a planted saltwater dwarf seahorse tank since I got my 12g long now.


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> The only issue is oxygen content. With the small opening, the splashing action of the AC20 HOB filter turns out is pretty important to avoid gasping fish. A few people in the mega Edge thread tried switching to canisters and ended up adding back the AC20 simply for aeration. I'm sure you could add a simple airstone and achieve the same goal, but it's something to keep in mind.
> 
> Actually, considering I have a spare Finnex PX-360 canister filter laying around unused, that's an interesting idea. It would certainly simplify feeding, since currently I have to shut off the HOB filter while feeding, else it blasts all the flake into the tank within seconds. Hmmm...


You dont think the diffuser would supply enough surface agitation in a 6 gal? In such a small tank Id think a diffuser would basically act the same as an airstone other than the bact its not o2 lol.


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## Notorious93 (Jun 3, 2013)

Aquahollics said:


> You dont think the diffuser would supply enough surface agitation in a 6 gal? In such a small tank Id think a diffuser would basically act the same as an airstone other than the bact its not o2 lol.


I don't think it would be enough, besides you want co2 bubbles to go around the tank for plants to absorb. 

Here's an idea to get enough oxygen, its what I'm thinking of doing. Mount your light on the opposite side and make your intake an overflow. you should get enough oxygen exchange and you could either hook it up to a sump or canister. its just figuring out a return that puzzling me, even if you just do a simple canister setup, the light really makes it a tight fit


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Aquahollics said:


> You dont think the diffuser would supply enough surface agitation in a 6 gal? In such a small tank Id think a diffuser would basically act the same as an airstone other than the bact its not o2 lol.


A co2 diffuser is going to add co2 to the water, not oxygen. That's *great* for your plants, which breathe in co2, but lousy for the fish, who need to have water with plenty of dissolved o2 (not co2) to breathe. Fish die in water with low oxygen content. (it's a real thing, happens in the wild, too)


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Notorious93 said:


> I don't think it would be enough, besides you want co2 bubbles to go around the tank for plants to absorb.
> 
> Here's an idea to get enough oxygen, its what I'm thinking of doing. Mount your light on the opposite side and make your intake an overflow. you should get enough oxygen exchange and you could either hook it up to a sump or canister. its just figuring out a return that puzzling me, even if you just do a simple canister setup, the light really makes it a tight fit


What about just removing the spray bar on the return so the water stream creates surface agitation as the hob filter would....?


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Notorious93 said:


> I don't think it would be enough, besides you want co2 bubbles to go around the tank for plants to absorb.
> 
> Here's an idea to get enough oxygen, its what I'm thinking of doing. Mount your light on the opposite side and make your intake an overflow. you should get enough oxygen exchange and you could either hook it up to a sump or canister. its just figuring out a return that puzzling me, even if you just do a simple canister setup, the light really makes it a tight fit


I'm not quite following what you mean by "the opposite side" unless you're talking about getting rid of the hood and literally moving the light to an entirely different area?

If shouldn't be too difficult to sneak a pair of canister hoses under the light, however, by cheating it up higher, just a smidge. (or slimmer hoses?)


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> A co2 diffuser is going to add co2 to the water, not oxygen. That's *great* for your plants, which breathe in co2, but lousy for the fish, who need to have water with plenty of dissolved o2 (not co2) to breathe. Fish die in water with low oxygen content. (it's a real thing, happens in the wild, too)


As I am well aware... but your still only going to introduce as much co2 as can be absorbed, and the bubbles will create surface agitation just wasn't sure if it would be enough is all. Were talking about a small tank here.


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## Notorious93 (Jun 3, 2013)

Aquahollics said:


> What about just removing the spray bar on the return so the water stream creates surface agitation as the hob filter would....?


Possibly, but the spray bar also dissipates the flow evenly, without it my canister would kick up all the substrate, and you don't want water getting into the light since its soo close. In my rimless edge, I had to replace a light that sits about 3 inches above the water due to water getting into it from the little bit of agitation caused by a small airstone. It took months before it got to that point but it happened nonetheless. The way you mounted the light it is pretty close. I'd suggest making oxygen exchange happen away from there.

Even though this is made for saltwater and the 12gallon edge, the concept would be perfect: http://saltwater-conversion.com/products/marine-pac

if you were to go the overflow route here's an example

















kman said:


> I'm not quite following what you mean by "the opposite side" unless you're talking about getting rid of the hood and literally moving the light to an entirely different area?
> 
> If shouldn't be too difficult to sneak a pair of canister hoses under the light, however, by cheating it up higher, just a smidge. (or slimmer hoses?)


Look at his pictures, the light could just be stuck on the other side of the black column to make better room for some hoses/plumb


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Notorious93 said:


> Look at his pictures, the light could just be stuck on the other side of the black column to make better room for some hoses/plumb


Still not 100% sure what you mean, but regardless, looking at his photos again, it seems pretty clear there is a good amount of room to the left of the light, and a little less light to the right (in the last photo from underneath, it looks not quite perfectly centered). I can't imagine that the amount of space to each side isn't enough to squeeze a hose into both sides. That said, I would think it would be perfectly feasible to get both hoses in on one side, with some various bits of plumbing (extra bits easily available at most LFS).

As for the light itself, it's supposedly pretty well sealed, according to Fluval. I don't know that I'd trust it to be perfect in a saltwater environment, but these are designed for freshwater. A little splashup of fresh water from an airstone or surface agitation shouldn't hurt the light.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Aquahollics said:


> As I am well aware... but your still only going to introduce as much co2 as can be absorbed, and the bubbles will create surface agitation just wasn't sure if it would be enough is all. Were talking about a small tank here.


I don't have any experience with co2 system beyond what I've read. But from what I've read, the concern with co2 and surface agitation is that you lose co2 a lot faster than without agitation. 

But given the peculiarities of the Edge, with such a tiny amount of exposed surface, the concern is for the fish due to low o2 levels. It's ok with the stock HOB, but people who switched to canisters lose that extra agitation, and there were definite reports of problems due to low o2 content in the water. Plants do great, but the fish don't do so well. It's even worse, as you might imagine, with the 12 gal Edge, since it has the same small amount of open area but twice the water to aerate!

I'll see if I can find the posts with that Mega Edge thread, discussing the matter. I actually read the whole freaking thread at one point, all 127 pages of posts, but it's going to be tough narrowing down to that specific post within there...

Edit: Wasn't as bad as I thought, as search turned up a few, although there's at least one post I recall where someone actually measured the o2 levels, which I can't find. Here's a few posts I found on the topic, though:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=2066962&highlight=canister#post2066962

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=2744754&highlight=canister#post2744754

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=2744754&highlight=canister#post2944778

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1643209&highlight=canister#post1643209

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1251293&highlight=canister#post1251293


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## Notorious93 (Jun 3, 2013)

kman said:


> Still not 100% sure what you mean, but regardless, looking at his photos again, it seems pretty clear there is a good amount of room to the left of the light, and a little less light to the right (in the last photo from underneath, it looks not quite perfectly centered). I can't imagine that the amount of space to each side isn't enough to squeeze a hose into both sides. That said, I would think it would be perfectly feasible to get both hoses in on one side, with some various bits of plumbing (extra bits easily available at most LFS).
> 
> As for the light itself, it's supposedly pretty well sealed, according to Fluval. I don't know that I'd trust it to be perfect in a saltwater environment, but these are designed for freshwater. A little splashup of fresh water from an airstone or surface agitation shouldn't hurt the light.


Look at the way he mounted the light, then look at my overflow example picture. You could manage both by just mounting the light on the opposite side....

My broken light was from a freshwater tank. I'm converting my edge to a saltwater planted and the light has the same housing as the nano reef variant, just different leds so it should hold up the same regardless.


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> Still not 100% sure what you mean, but regardless, looking at his photos again, it seems pretty clear there is a good amount of room to the left of the light, and a little less light to the right (in the last photo from underneath, it looks not quite perfectly centered). I can't imagine that the amount of space to each side isn't enough to squeeze a hose into both sides. That said, I would think it would be perfectly feasible to get both hoses in on one side, with some various bits of plumbing (extra bits easily available at most LFS).
> 
> As for the light itself, it's supposedly pretty well sealed, according to Fluval. I don't know that I'd trust it to be perfect in a saltwater environment, but these are designed for freshwater. A little splashup of fresh water from an airstone or surface agitation shouldn't hurt the light.


Have to agree with Kman here as the light is pretty well sealed up, I'm not worried about it getting wet. I also def have enough room on each side of the light for intake/return tubing. I think I'll just keep it an Iwagami scape without tetras and shrimp for the time being and see what I cant come up with in the future without introducing an air stone. The links were very helpful thank you!


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Got everything scaped... Just thought I'd share. Prob move this to the journal section since there not much more to be said about the lighting aspect imo.


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

Just got the filter today and for the sake of this being a lighting thread I thought this info might be helpful for some when it comes to running filtration with an upgraded Fluval light. The intake/return fit better than I could have imagined! Both are small enough that the LED fixture swivels over top each one. The return came with a straight nozzle and a spray bar so I removed the attachment piece leaving about an inch from where the water surface will be which in theory should create enough surface agitation to keep my fish from surfacing for air. Everything ended up being the perfect size, the top fits snug over everything, tubing fits through existing slot in back and was long enough to run to the floor out out of sight. Very happy with the way this turned out.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Nice! Is your canister powerful enough to push the water that high? That's a pretty good amount of lift.

It will also be interesting to see how it works once there is water moving. It looks a little bit like the output might blast a hole in your substrate, but it's hard to know until water is actually moving, might be just fine. (also depends on the substrate, of course)


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## Aquahollics (Feb 1, 2011)

kman said:


> Nice! Is your canister powerful enough to push the water that high? That's a pretty good amount of lift.
> 
> It will also be interesting to see how it works once there is water moving. It looks a little bit like the output might blast a hole in your substrate, but it's hard to know until water is actually moving, might be just fine. (also depends on the substrate, of course)


Yea I contemplated this... The filter is more than what the tank needs so if the height reduces gph thats a plus imo. Also doing a DSM with HC so hopefully the roots will hold together well enough that the return doesnt make a hole.


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