# The Black Gate GLA 12 long-New photos 2/6/13



## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Oops, bad post


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Ditto


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

*one more try*

So I have had some difficulty uploading photos to this thread but I am going to give it another try. This is the original shot of the tank during the cycling I did last year. It changed a lot over time and the cories total destroyed the foreground sand but this was essentially the first incarnation of the tank.


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

Love the rocks. Personally I would love to see them almost in a huge mountain top like mound...maybe with layers. But the way you have it setup is really nice as well. The tank is pretty neat too. Are you able to get more stones like that?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

So here is a little bit of a step by step of where I went with the rescape. After I moved the stock into a holding tank (plants, amanos and the last of the cories) I drained the tank and started digging out the substrate. After I got the bulk of it bagged, I refilled the tank a few times and vacuumed the remaining sand/substrate into buckets. Then I did some fine cleaning work with a magic eraser (awesome BTW), a razor and a little bit of vinegar/ lemon juice to clean off the carbonate stains. I flushed it one more time. 

I took a break after that and got back to it the next day. I laid down a base of power sand special, then put down a shallow layer of ADA Amazonia multi.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I started working on the hardscape and the slope. The obsidian is a really cool stone material, but it is downright dangerously sharp at times. According to wikipedia they still chip scalpel blades out of the stuff) Hopefully I got the placement right. The sloping of the substrate has always been difficult and with the narrow dimensions really require a serious slope to attain a sense of depth. Soemthing that was sorely lacking in my previous attempt with this tank. To prevent the inevitable slipping of the substrate I stole some concepts from the concrete guys, namely re-bar. I laid toothpicks parallel in the tank between the the hardscape pieces as a laid down one layer of aquasoil after another. As the depth got greater, I would insert toothpicks vertically and/ or angling backwards into the substrate to reinforce the slope as it got higher. I figure that if I can put them in my mouth, they should be safe in the aquarium, even though they will eventually rot. By then the root system should be providing additional support for the slope. I hopefully buried the vertical toothpicks deeply enough that the settling will not expose them, but the should be easy to remove if necessary. In this picture you can see a few toothpicks I laid into the AS.
(BTW, I apologize for the poor photo quality- I will borrow my friends DSLR when things progress).








This is where the obsidian went into the scape.








I hope you like the placement, the obvious downside to the toothpicks is that it would be challenging to move the hardscape pieces if I want to change it.


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

How much does this tank cost with shipping?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

So on new years day, I got down to the hard work of planting the HC I had picked up at my LFS. It really does take a lot of work put it all in, and frankly the crappy tweezers I had did not really do me any favors. After slowly breaking the pots of HC into pieces and planting it I got the tank ready for the long wait.
This is where I ended up, sorry about the condensation, I had been spraying as I planted and didn't really get the glass cleaned up at all.
























Here is a sideways shot of the right side slope. If it stays in place when I fill it, I will do a crazy war dance. 








I have some Elocharis 'belem' on the way that will be added into the mix around the hardscape this weekend. The tank is set for a few weeks of emersed growth, and the HC is already getting after it, and showing new growth. Here is the current state of affairs, three days later. It is hard to see, but their is new leaf growth.


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## bastage (Dec 21, 2011)

I love the tank dimensions.. & The rock formation is awesome as well.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Nubster said:


> Love the rocks. Personally I would love to see them almost in a huge mountain top like mound...maybe with layers. But the way you have it setup is really nice as well. The tank is pretty neat too. Are you able to get more stones like that?


My friend picked them up at aqua forest aquarium when he was in California. They are in storage right now for my next project. The hardscape was always a little jumbled. I wish I would have gotten pics of the tank before I tore it down for the rescape, it looked a little better.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Geniusdudekiran said:


> How much does this tank cost with siopping?


If I remember right the tank was about $90 and the shipping was about $25-$30 from Florida to Utah. Pretty reasonable. GLA is awesome, and the tank is really interesting to work on.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

bastage said:


> I love the tank dimensions.. & The rock formation is awesome as well.


Thank you, I hope is looks even better with water in it.


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

Just realized that I typed siopping instead of shipping lol. Stupid iPad.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Love th iPaad. iT funn to typ on.


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

lol


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Got some serious work done today. Got a glass cover cut locally that fits like a glove, and did some serious DIY lily pipes and some drop checkers. Not my first time cooking acrylic, buy certainly my best work.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

One intake in this photo was a victim of man handling when testing for fit and some are going into the other secret project I am working on, but I always like to have back ups just in case. I didn't break tne hacksawed one so I didn't cry to badly. Went nuts on DFS and picked up new 306 fluval to drive the system and a pair of the new Ista reactors to try out, as well as a Hydor inline heater for the other project while I was at it. The blurb they had on the 306 said all the right things, and while 300+ gph may be a lot for a 12 gallon tank, I love to have more capacity than I need rather than needing more than I have. I could have DIY'd a reactor, and have done so in the past, but I like to try new things and they were cheap. Not sure if I will use the reactor or my inline Atomic yet, but I have always disliked the misty look of the Atomic. May just use it on my grow out.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

So after getting some Elocharis "belem" from a forum member today, I added it to the scape and it really seems to be coming together. Now it is just the waiting part which is hands down the hardest part of the whole ordeal. Here a few shots of the current state of affairs. First a cropped FTS. Sorry I didn't clean the glass.








A couple of detail shots.





































Anyways, that is where we stand now. My family keeps asking what fish I am going to put in it (actually they mainly ask why it doesn't have water in it...) but I still am not sure. The usual duo of otto's and amano's once we get there of course, but I am still mulling the live stock options. Any suggestions?


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## OiZO (Feb 2, 2010)

I have the same tank. since you have a lid (wish i had one) i would do 10 or so Clown killifish or furcata rainbow. The furcata's are my favorite fish and they love the swim room on this tank and if you only keep furcata's they will breed for you. Another fish i have loved in this tank is ember tetra's. Feed them food with carotenoids in it like cyclop eeze or similar and watch them turn deep deep orange/red.


p.s. Would you mind sharing the specs and rough cost of your lid? I need to get one made fish really like to jump with this tank.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I had the glass cover cut at a local glass shop (I believe it is 3/16") for $17 dollars. I don't have the glass in front of me for exact dimensions, but it is a snug fit that leaves about 2" open on one side for the lily pipes and other equipment. I used some extra clips I had on hand to support it. On the livestock note I am either leaning towards rummy's, embers, but the furcata is a possibility. The tank is a little smallish for rummy's, but they school awesome and are the most likely suspects right now. Just for entertainment, and to speed the emersed growth period along I am now I am doing one BPS of co2 via a pressurized tank into the covered tank. Should be ready for water within 2wks, is my guess. The HC is spreading nicely, and the hairgrass is sending out runners as well. I am going to run a 2026 eheim on the tank instead of the the fluval 306. The 306 is too powerful for his arrangement. It is getting spooled up on my cube right now, and will stay on the cube when it is time to fire this one up.


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## Salmon McCloud (Aug 13, 2011)

endgin28 said:


> Got some serious work done today. Got a glass cover cut locally that fits like a glove, and did some serious DIY lily pipes and some drop checkers. Not my first time cooking acrylic, buy certainly my best work.


You should make me a set of 16mm........ eh? what do you say?


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

Yeah, I'm sure you need some CRS to put in there -- trade opportunity?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

16mm, eh? I am actually contemplating some decent CRS once my mini M is cycled up. My water is more appropriate for tigers, and I don't really want to go RO. But definitely tempting. Intake and outtake? If you need the shrimp guard it would be a little more expensive. I wouldn't be able to make them for a little while, but I like them better than glass, as they are harder to break when you pull the hoses for cleaning. I wouldn't be ready for 2-3 weeks anyways, but I'll keep in touch.


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## Salmon McCloud (Aug 13, 2011)

Yeah intake and outtake. I have a shrimp hairs so no. Need. I'll pay you good money for one, unless you want RCS which is all I can offer right now, maybe some sakuras


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

endgin28 said:


> 16mm, eh? I am actually contemplating some decent CRS once my mini M is cycled up. My water is more appropriate for tigers, and I don't really want to go RO.


Well, whatever the ZooMed 501 is... Tigers and CRS have (nearly) the same care IME...


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

@Gdk- I'll pm you if I decide to go w/CRS. Making them is somewhat challenging, but I like challenges.
@salmonmcloud PM sent


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

endgin28 said:


> @Gdk- I'll pm you if I decide to go w/CRS. Making them is somewhat challenging, but I like challenges.
> @salmonmcloud PM sent


Haha I can pay too . I just asked because yours are much better than the other diy ones I have seen for sale here


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I am always better motivated by hard script, but I was serious about the shrimp and the cycling mini m.


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## sockfish (Jul 11, 2007)

I'm suddenly in love with the tank size and shape itself! I went to GLA but it's out of stock....

sox


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yeah, give it a week or two and I'll really have something to show you.:icon_wink 

It is getting close to done, the HC is doing its thing and the hairgrass is sending out runners. Since adding CO2 to the tank, it seems as though things are speeding up, but it could just as easily be perception bias or things are just hitting the sweet spot anyways.

As far as the dimensions go, it really is like a much larger tank than the actual gallons. I can't say enough good things about GLA stuff, and while the silicone work is not quite as good as my ADA mini M, it is still the "coolest" tank I own and ADA does not have an equivalent size. There are a few other journals floating around with the Mr. Aqua 12 long as well, which has the same dimensions.


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## Salmon McCloud (Aug 13, 2011)

Yeah I want to buy the Mr. Aqua version, since its about 20 bucks cheaper


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Just getting antsy here, I have just done a few shots for entertainment. There still isn't water in it, after its a new years day planting, but I am not worried or rushed. Just thought I show off the look of it and some details. I am still shooting pictures off of my phone so be gentle with the photo quality, which should improve over time.









This is what the exposed aqaurium will look like, no moving parts. The tubing in the background is the CO2 injection I am hot-rodding it with.









I put the seran wrap back on top of I was done taking photos. I am guessing two week from dunking but I will know when its time.



























Even with the cover on it very little hardware shows. I think its pretty clean. Once I get ready to dunk it, I just need to hook up the filter to the CO2, the hydor and the hoses we are ready to get wet!









Them are some Pipes!


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## sockfish (Jul 11, 2007)

Ha! I emailed GLA to see when this tank would be back in stock and they found one for me in the "warehouse". I went for it. It'll be my first rimless and it'll take a while to get the rest of the equipment given the price. We have a glass cutter around here and I'll probably want a top cut too....

Meanwhile I'll watch your tank's progress... :wink:

OiZO I looked at your tank--it is also seriously cool. I'm so glad I'm getting one!

sox


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks, I really like the GLA guys. They do nice work. Hope you enjoy the tank, I certainly do. 

Did a little tweaking of rocks today, and did a little work on my mini M. I will be testing nightly aeration with an airstone on this, and the mini M. I read an article on BOD on this site, and it has greatly influenced my thinking on high light, high tech tanks. The extra oxygenation will potentionally be useful, to strengthen the bio filter. Depending on what my experience is with the restart on this tank, I may run it on others. 

Considering this is 78 watts over 12 gallons I am sure I am in the "Very high light" catergory. When it was primarily C. Parva and A. Nana, I had the lights on a 8 hour photoperiod, with the lights suspended quite high (20" +) above the substrate. With this HC base, I will be running slightly more light, with the light slightly lower starting position, with a similiar photoperiod. At some point, I may try running one bulb, or switching to LED's, but for now the arrangement is fixed. 

I will be picking up some sort of mountable power strip to put the cables and timers in a better order. The timing will be somewhat complicated, as I plan on running the t-5's one for 8 hours (subject to adjustment later if necesary), the co2 solenoid on a seperate timer (on an hour before the lights go on, to an hour before the lights go out), a led strip behind the tank backlighting the outline running opposite the lights, and an airstone driven by a whisper air pump also running opposite the lights. 

The cabinet was built by a friend of mine and while it isn't ADA "style", it fits our home well, has nice storage and plenty of room for various equipment. I will post pictures of how I have it arranged in a later post.


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## sockfish (Jul 11, 2007)

Yup. Keep those post coming! I have plenty of time to "Talk little and learn much"!

sox


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

*Tough week*

So it has been a long week in a few different ways, not all good. I was screwing around with the glass top and did not seal the tank up properly. I had a fairly large amount of HC brown out on me, most likely due to low humidity in the emersed phase. Got it resealed, but it definitely set me back a bit. 

Then I started to do some prep work involving moving the fluval 306 into my stand under the cube, in preparation for moving the Eheim 2026 into position to dunk the Gate. As I was moving the inline heater on to the 306 from the 2026 when the dull utility knife I was using decided to it would fun to jump into my right thumb. I had never actually seen my knuckle before, let me tell you, it is not something I wish to see again. Some skillful nursing on the part of my lovely wife Amy prevented a trip to the emergency room. However this meant that I had two filters that needed to get hooked up pronto, one handed, as I really did not want the bio filters to crash on me. So I started to left hand my way through the mess. I figured out right at the end that I would barely not have enough tubing to keep the 2026 hooked up to the cube, and decided to just get it hooked up to the prepped system on the Black Gate. This meant dunking time.

Once I got the kinks worked out on the cube, I dragged the 2026 upstairs and got to work hooking up the filter into the lily-reactor-heater complex. This actually wasn't too bad as I had preset the tubing to "train it" into position for mounting to the 2026. Then I fill the Gate up, after filling with wadded up newspaper to minimise dust and so on. This went smoothly until I figured out that I had hooked up the Ista reactor backwards. By now my hand is throbbing nonstop and I am ready to pull my hair out. So I drain the lines and get the reactor on the right way, get the hose clamps locked down and it's up and running. The Ista took a little work to get sealed up-if you use on of these be sure to have hose clamps on hand.

Of course, just to make me really happy my bubble counter blew a healthy amount of mineral oil into the reactor and tank to ensure the surface looked like the gulf a few years ago. Cleaned it up with paper towels and plan run a pretty aggressive WC program this week anyways.

The obsidian looks VERY different under water, almost translucent gray. The Belem looks great, but my HC looks horrible due to the drying out. I plan on doing some trimming/replanting today and I may take a few shots of the tank. The slope stayed in place nicely and that is a small victory.

Just to top off what was a pretty tough week, when I reset the heater on the cube the heater some how got set to maximum. When I came home the next night I found that their were four dead Espei's and one dead cardinal on the bottom. First I checked the CO2 which was in the green, then I checked the water which was HOT. I took a quick temp and it was 104! The heater in conjunction with the 150 watt metal halide was cooking the tank. I did a quick cold water change and got it back into shape without any additional fatalities or injuries. (miracle- fish normally don't like 30+ degree water swings in minutes)

Any ways just thought I would share my drama. A lot of serious mistakes this week and it will take a while to sort them out, but the projects continue.


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## Salmon McCloud (Aug 13, 2011)

Holy crappy dude. That is insane


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## chiefroastbeef (Feb 14, 2011)

I love the set up, the hanging lights that run the length of the tank, the tank, and the table! Presentation is awesome! The old scape was amazing, too bad the cories destroyed it.  Have fun with your new scape!

I am planning on starting an ADA 30c soon in the future, I want to create slopes. Do you have any tips on how to create slopes? I am just afraid of the slope flattening over time, despite having carpet plant roots holding it in place.

Thank you for sharing!


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

@ salmonmcloud yeah tough week for sure. Hopefully drama free next week.

@cheifroastbeef The slope trick I used was to put the substrate down in layers and in each layer put toothpicks down parallel to the front tank. I put the hard scape down after the second layer. As I built the slope up, more toothpicks went in. Once got to the upper layers, I started to add diagonal and vertical picks to support the horizontal ones. This is the first time trying this method, but it makes sense that it would act like rebar in concrete, supporting the slope. In the longer term I don't know what will happen, but it certainly seems like a better way to go than just dumping it in and hoping it doesn't collapse. I know on "radical" slopes that using egg crate or bags of gravel works, but in this small space 8x9 I wanted to keep it simple.


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## chiefroastbeef (Feb 14, 2011)

endgin28 said:


> @ salmonmcloud yeah tough week for sure. Hopefully drama free next week.
> 
> @cheifroastbeef The slope trick I used was to put the substrate down in layers and in each layer put toothpicks down parallel to the front tank. I put the hard scape down after the second layer. As I built the slope up, more toothpicks went in. Once got to the upper layers, I started to add diagonal and vertical picks to support the horizontal ones. This is the first time trying this method, but it makes sense that it would act like rebar in concrete, supporting the slope. In the longer term I don't know what will happen, but it certainly seems like a better way to go than just dumping it in and hoping it doesn't collapse. I know on "radical" slopes that using egg crate or bags of gravel works, but in this small space 8x9 I wanted to keep it simple.


Ah, thanks for the reply! That is an interesting method, will definitely think about that.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Screw it. I will post pics tomorrow of hardware set up, current state of affairs, and so on. I have been really busy on tanks, selling plants, work, marriage, life. This is where the retro fitting I have been at for the last month, will be finished. Unfortunately there are a few scratches on the tank itself and the HC is a mess, but all and all the tank has some character, which will only improve if I gave any game at all. I welcome constructive critism. I will be shooting with something other than my iPhone and should have a little better shots than usual for better or worse.


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## chiefroastbeef (Feb 14, 2011)

In my opinion the rocks can be placed in the tank with a little more "thought." Right now, it looks like someone randomly putting the rocks in there, perfectly spaced out, like putting meat on the counter to be sold.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I might change the right side of the hard scape a bit. I also may place a plant mass, that brings more depth. The rocks look quite different and this bring a pretty different feel to table. One step at a time. But I am sure there is room for improvement.


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## chiefroastbeef (Feb 14, 2011)

How is your toothpick rebar holding up? I sort of want to try it, but I just don't want toothpick randomly sticking out of the substrate when I plant/replant.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

It will be interesting. I am not sure if what I have it mind, it will pose challenges anyways. The slope itself is holding it own. No slumping and have built a few slopes that have failed to maintain shape. that is a relief. The tank was dunked on Wednesday feb 1st. The water parameters are soft acidic with a hint of nitrite, some nitrate. The glass top definitely holds water, and will get hard water stains that will need to be addressed. This has actually been something I have expected, but I like the effect and the usefulness. I lose a ton of water from this tank, especially in my climate (dry, hot) and slowing the rate of evap. is not a bad thing.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

So these are the hardware shots, there are few things worth mentioning but I will address them below.


















The water comes from the lily in the back, and enters the 2026, loops around and hits the heater, then runs into the ista, and then hits the outlet pipes. When I do filter maintanence, I will pull the plugs, shut down the gcfi, and pull it out as the strip is little close. There are fairly smooth kinks compared to the usual multi stage set up and the flow through the tank after I tweaked the output lily pipe a bit is unrestrained. I have pipe clamps on every component, and I feel better for it, even though the pressure is less than large systems. 



















I have a pretty good space for tools and ferts on the left. I have started dosing procedures immediately, with E.I. I right now dosing 1/8 tsp of KNO3, 1/32tsp KH2PO4, odd, Flourish even. May supplement iron, may do other things later, but I am going to let the plants tell me. 










First off the whole system runs through a Ground fault interrupt behind the stand in the wall. If I owned the place I would rewire the outlet, but that will have to do. Like all inline sytems I have set up, it is tight space wise, and I tried as best I could to maximize safety, accessiblity, and integrity using the tools at hand. I would love to add hard pumbing into the system, but flexible will have to do. 





I am still planning on supplying the tank with aeration, especially giving the HC which is rotting right now. Additional air may help with BOD.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

The tank itself has a few issues, which I have mentioned. Their is brown HC In the mix, and as seems to always be the case, some HC which has tried to escape. Tomorrow, I will attack the brown stuff, replant what seems replantable. So here are some shots of the current state of affairs.



















The lights underneath the tank are actually an LED strip I got at HD. They back light the tank at night and glow underneath the substrate as they just rest on the back of the stand.



















The condensation is kinda cool the way it diamond patterns underneath. It is definitely going to be a challenge to keep it clean, but some light reduction at this height over the substrate will be beneficial overall. If it becomes algae infested, not so much.










Home made drop checker, that looks like the right color.




























Good surface movement. The lily I cut needed a little support to hit just the right spot. It does vortex a bit. I may try to angle it slightly or more likely build another slightly differently after my hand gets back in the game.



















Anyways, sorry about the glass being dirty, The tank isn't perfect either as scratches are readily visible. 

However, it kinda feels nice to look at it and the fill in process should not take too long. It possible that removing the far right rock and the second from the left might tighten the composition, but I need to look at it for a day or two, before I will be sure. An additional plant species up front may also be possible to bring it together. Both of these things could be done or left undone. We will see.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

This what the tank looks like with just the LED's running. For ten bucks total, I really dig the effect. This is in a centerpiece setting in my apartment, so I like it that it maintains some character even when not fully lit.


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## Salmon McCloud (Aug 13, 2011)

Looks like a pretty sweet night light at night.


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## sockfish (Jul 11, 2007)

Wow--a lot going on! I think I missed how you did the night light leds? Where exactly are they? It looks so great with the lights off!

My own tank arrived Friday. Now I'm just meditating on it before I do anything, but I'd like to try that led look you've got going!

What's up with the potted plant on the stand? Is is waiting to go in the tank? It's sort of distracting from the rest of the clean look if there's some other place to put it (I'm just sayin'...)

Can't imagine hooking up filters and tubing one handed....yikes.

sox


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

The led's are just like a small strand (24") of white led's. I just laid it behind the tank. It runs on opposite the lights.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Potted plant is just stealing light. Probably move it later. I think it some sort of Anubis. Has just been sitting in a coffee cup for a year.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I have done a little trim and replant. I have also added a night aeration schedule to the mix. I have a whisper pump and air stone running into the tank on the far left side running opposite the lights. This overnight removed any trace of protein film and has made the water crystal clear. It is part of the Amano theory that additional aeration after the lighted period is useful, so I am trying it out. So far no brown out or algae have arrived. Water is still a little heavy on nitrates, but nitrite is almost gone. Expect to see diatoms soon though, but should be able to get algae squad in there shortly. Getting the pearling and growth I hoped for.

Still thinking about scape shifts. Still a little gun shy about doing sand "river" after last round, but I am tempted to drop in a focal point right between the center rocks. A thin river would add depth to the scape, but it is also a pain to maintain. The outlier rocks are also potentially shiftable. Anyways live creatures come soon.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Did a little adjustment and removed far right rock and the second from the left. I think it tightened up the composition a bit. It added a little more of an elevation shift to the scene and should be nice. The tank looks hammered a bit from the trim but once it gets a little growth time I will post Picts.


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## ROZDAB (Oct 3, 2011)

It's looking real good I can't wait to see the new scape and good luck with the soon to be diatom battle


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks, it is fun. I think I am going to add another power strip to be able to put the co2 on a staggered schedule to the lights. It is currently running even with the lights, and I much prefer + 1, -1 hours to the lights. Also the LED runs 24/7 and I prefer opposite the lights. I did a 70% WC last night and the pearling was off the hook. I really am anal about timing the system. High light takes real diligence.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I have been constantly trimming the E. belem and reseting HC this week. I am willing to bet that that substrate is hidden within a few weeks, maybe two. I went through yesterday and replanted about 30 tops that I trimmed off to keep the HC low. This is definitely a higher maintenance arrangement than I usually run. 

The hair grass is particularly challenging as it really wants to grow into the whole enchilada, shooting runners everywhere. I will be selling some soon, it grows extremely quickly when happy. I need to get a small tipped scissor for substrate work, as untangling the HC and belem is a challenge and my curved tip scissors don't need to get dinged in the aquasoil. I didn't want to run any physical blockers in the tank to prevent the hairgrass from attacking the HC. 

It will be interesting this summer when I "diversify" my hobbies and interests, and don't spend as much time on maintenance. 

I have decided that I REALLY like the hard scape shift. The butcher shop comment was really useful to get me to refocus my efforts. The goal with this tank, like most good Iwagumi tanks, is a sense of simplicity, yet with enough visual detail to get attention. I have not managed to get to the "next level" with my scapes yet, hopefully this is my first really good showpiece planned tank. Growing plants is one thing, working the confines of the arrangement into a cohesive artistic statement is quite another. 

The experiment with the toothpicks is working pretty well, IMO. When I have shifted things, they are easy to remove (and replace if desired) if visible, and the slope is maintaining. It should be even more stable once the roots have grabbed hold everywhere. I may put this into my permanent bag o' tricks.

Anyways livestock is on my mind right now. I really think I am going to run rummynose tetras in there, if I can find some reasonably priced. I like the other rummynose from a durability standpoint, but the females are lame, and I don't plan on them breeding successfulyl in this arrangement. I will either have to special order them from a local vendor if I can, or purchase them online. I think they are visually exciting, and when I had them last I found them to have the habits that I like- they seem to be sustrate huggers, great schooler's, act like they have ADD, and will have the right color arrangements. In my opinion, they will preclude fancy shrimp, as I used to watch them crush baby RCS all day long, when I had them last. I don't mind a little predation in my tanks, but watching them smash CRS babies may be too much carnage for my taste.

The algae removal crew will consist of oto's, nerites and possibly some Siamese algae eaters. I have never run SAE's before, but I have heard most of the right things. I ruled out Amano's for the moment- I don't need them tearing my arrangement to shreds yet, even though the are probably the most effective algae crusher in the game.

I will try to post updated pictures today or tomorrow. It will be sweet when my right hand is back in the game- my left is a PITA when trimming. Healing up good though, no infections and I have enough mobility (no tendon damage). I am going to have an awesome scar to talk about. Be careful with sharp (but dull) instruments!


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I blog too much. Pictures are more fun.










Current FTS. I will work on my photo's but right now this is what I've got.










The negative space on the left helps I think.


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

VERY nice! Some staurogyne repens would look nice in the back left corner.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I may look into a highlight plant to put into the game. I am probably going to do a little more shifting around, mainly to put the far right section to better use. Right now, I feel as though it is too high. If it comes down a bit, I think it will balance the left a bit more without making it too symmetrical. 

Staurogyne, eh? You wouldn't be trying to tempt me would you
I was thinking maybe diplis diandra.

However, I need to address the hard scape first before I go nuts on additional species.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I did what I hope will be the final bit of hardscape adjustment tonight. Pictures will be a few days, but I am REALLY excited about the look now, much better depth, focus, and gets far closer to what I imagined. Moving the hardscape with the "rebar" in it was no problem at all, in fact I reused some of the toothpicks to maintain support of the slope. 

Got ten little horned nerites in there now, doing the grunt work, although no diatoms or any other algae has reared its ugly head yet. Had a pair of siamensis in there last night, but one managed to learn to fly even with the cover on (it is not flush in all directions). Fish jerky is a hard thing to wake to in the morning.

I am filtering the hell out of it right now- the filter was fully colonized before hookup (three years of continuous service), and has carbon and purigen in it right now, on top of the strong bio filter. In these initial phases, I really don't want any excessive DOC's and I keep my BOD in check with the filtration and aeration program I am running. According factory specs I am running over 20x turnover, even cutting that by a third or more to drive the entirety system is still huge amount of turnover. 

I may be foolish for saying so, but I (knock on wood) am cautiously optimistic that I will be able to keep all forms of algae under near complete control from the get go with this restart. I have never nipped it it the bud completely from the start, but I don't think it is mythical to aim for. The dry start definitely helped. I may look back on this post a year from now and laugh my *** off for the moxie of it, but I really think I have it dialed in this time.


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## ADA (Dec 31, 2010)

Subscribed! Love it!


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## FreshtoSalt (Dec 1, 2011)

Indeed, this is a nice tank.
Looking forward to future updates!


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## shrimpnmoss (Apr 8, 2011)

Wow that's a monster filter for a 12g.....no wonder your water is so clean!


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yeah, but its smaller than the one I used to use! Nice thing about it is that I can easily throttle it back if I want, but I really do like having excessive capacity. When I ran the xp1 it just wasn't getting the movement I wanted. The 404 was fine, no issues blowing fish out of water or anything, just noisy and ate juice like crazy. The 2026 is much nicer. 

The shape this of tank changes everything, it takes a lot to drive the system with one sided lilies to get the gyre effect. 

This same filter was used on my cube for years and gives me exactly what I am looking for with this tank- perfect circulation with no dead spots, near instantaneous off gassing of CO2 when the light goes out, no surface film, and a sense of redundancy if I see a nitrogen spike. I occasional tinker with the flow rates to ensure good C02 use, but most of the time cranking both the flows and the CO2 works best for me. Plus CO2 is cheap! Who cares if it goes for 3 months or 6? Tiny investment when compared to the time, expense and effort I put into these glass cages.


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## smracer31 (Sep 8, 2011)

Tanks looking good!
Are you using 2 geisemann powerchromes?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Not yet, I have the stock lamps in there right now. I think in the first post I mentioned GPC, but my stock bulbs are a little dimmer and for now I don't want to flood it with too light much, yet. I think I will be raising the light bar to extend the photoperiod soon, and I will add the 2 new geissman at that same time. Got about 14 months on them right now and its probably almost due.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

So WC time. This is the pre frontal










So the hangers swivel, very important for digging around.










Notice the aeration. It has been nice to NOT have surface film. When I ran it with small filter it was scummy on the start up.

WC device. Shrimp guarded, saw something like it on this site and knew it was the answer. I like DIY.



















Maybe I should just leave it half full 










Yeah, I will definitely be bringing the light bar up. The glass is going to be off for a couple of days, while I play with variables. Missing this view is bad.

Pre lift









Post lift









Hope you enjoy the shots, thanks for the kind words. 


















Livestock soon. Transferred siamensis to another tank while still under construction on this side. Little trim and tuck today. Should have something to more to shoot soon. Gonna have to give back the SLR soon, I am looking at lens and camera bodies to be able to better pictures.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I just had a PM about the suspension system and I might as well post my answer. I set this up this summer when I got the stand.

The bars are DIY, the wire and mounts were from the OEM suspension kit. I bent galvanized bars with an angle bender, sanded them, primed and painted them. I used those u shaped holders for mounting them to the back of the stand. (I am blanking the name of those, just standard sheet metal things) and used some 5/8" ID clear tubing to make it swivel (the tubing maintains friction without coming loose easily under the mounts). The tubing is just a split ring of pre cut tubing about a half an inch wide. I also use those rings to support the power cable and guide it down the left suspension bar. It isn't perfectly level from the angle bender, but it is close enough. I drilled two holes in the bottom ends of the bars and loop the wire through that to hang the unit. I only did the one set, I would enjoy another try in the future.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

So this is a transition week, getting the correct photoperiod in conjunction with adjustments to the filtration system, and CO2 has been tweaked to go optimal. This adjustment period is part of the game, and may be interesting to those running high tech systems. The HC was showing slow growth and very little pearling, with the top on, and my testing was showing a fairly marked increase of nitrates over the week, especially when compared to my other tanks rate of uptake. (I do a lot of dip strip testing, while notoriously inaccurate, they can be great if used for recognizing general trends, if used frequently.) This made me feel that either light, CO2 or both were inadequate. My drop checker was barely in the green, more like aqua blue.

As in the previous photo's, I have raised the light about 15" above the substrate (lowering potential light) and have decided to remove the top during the lighted period to increase the overall level of light a bit. The top, especially with the condensation levels, dramatically reduces light levels in the tank, beyond what I expected. On a whole, I would guess it proved to be about a 10% increase in overall light. (I don't own a PAR meter, but by playing around with an SLR you can do a halfway decent impersonation) I kept the length of the photoperiod the same, we'll see if any additional adjustments are necessary.

After raising the light levels and removing the top, I began to work on the low CO2 levels in the drop checker. I wasn't getting much beyond blue, even with a really high (3 plus BPS) injection rate. I grabbed a spare drop checker to confirm the first and fresh solution. Still low. Previously I had run an inline Atomic CO2 injector, and when I had ridiculously high flows, I was quite capable of increasing the rate of injection to whatever level I desired, even to lethal levels when I screwed up. With the ista reactor, I can't just jam it to insane levels, so I went to fixing the off gassing the other way- slow the flow. Fortunately, the 2026 is adjustable. I reduced the flow about 20% and suddenly the green was quick and easy. Pearling started almost instantly. After these adjustments, the growth has dramatically increased to nearly double previous rates. In my dream world I would have a smaller version of a 2074 filter, with a day/night schedule that would automatically switch from a low flow, high CO2 daytime schedule to high flow, high aeration levels at night. Less garbage to rig, more safe and efficient for the livestock.

I am still replacing the top before I crash at night, and have kept the aeration up. I added a school of good old neon tetras to the mix. Kinda boring, but the tank needed some life in it. Until I get everything stabilized to my satisfaction, fancier or pickier fish are simply a bad investment. They are still sulking at the bottom of the tank, but should get active after a day or two. Still no algae, still no brown out from emersed growth period. It will be ready to show you all in a few days. This is the clearest water I have ever managed to maintain in a tank, it is airy to say the least. 

Current stats
Photoperiod 8 hrs
CO2 2BPS 8hrs -1 off lights
Aeration 16 hours
PH 6.2 (7.6 tap)
Hardness GH ~ 75ppm
KH~120ppm
nitrate ~ 30ppm

Values approximate due to test strips, once nitrite is out of the mix, I prefer quick testing frequently, to accurate testing the doesn't encourage me to do it frequently. At some point in the near future, I hope to get a hold of a TDS meter to make accurate quick testing a reality for me. The new amazonia is buffering extremely well, and it will interesting to see how it maintains. 

The top will be a bit of an issue, I don't believe that I can maintain "high light" with it on, but I like the reduced evaporation and the slightly reduced risk of escapees. It will make leaving the tank for lengths of time much easier, as I usually reduce the photoperiod for fishing absences, as my lovely wife is not quite as diligent in regards to maintenance as I am, and I frankly don't enjoy imposing on others the fairly strict schedule of ferts and so on. It is easier to leave high tech systems if you have a "low" setting that does not require the full attention of the aquarist (or bothering to get others up to speed on the arrangements.)

Anyways, I hope you find these ramblings useful. When I got started I followed a variety of journals to see what other folks did to to be successful with planted tanks and I like trying to return the favor.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Enough jabbering, pictures!





































I am still a lousy photog, the lens I am using is more of a landscape type, definitely not a macro piece. My skills and excuses aside, the tank is doing exactly what is supposed to do: grow in, not be algae ridden, didn't brown out and look healthy and vibrant. Algae has been a non starter. No brown out period from the emersed growth period. The rate of growth has been extremely rapid. I have done a fair amount of trimming the HC, and replanting the clippings, but very soon I will be trimming for profit The Belem is still staying pretty low since the initial trim, but the shoots are starting get a bit taller now. I did a pretty severe haircut on it early and it has spread horizontally far more aggressively than growing vertically. 

The neon tetras sulk when the light is on. I have had them a week now- slow adjusters apparently. I may move my robust Espei's from the cube into the Gate to try to get high riders into the mix. I am being really picky, and its not their fault its bright 

Let me know what you think.


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## sockfish (Jul 11, 2007)

Just dropped in to check on your tank--it's looking seriously great! I like the shots that include the suspended lighting, it's sort of like going backstage in the production. I *do* admire that light fixture...

So Neons not Rummies. OK, I hope they stop their sulking, they can be quite pouty and lazy despite their reputation.

I haven't launched my own GLA yet, but I love watching yours-thanks for all the posts and pics!

sox


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Thanks for the kind words.

I kinda impulse purchased the neons. They may get more active soon, but if they don't, relocation may be in order. My LFS has alway been quite accommodating and if they don't get happy, I may do a little swapping. I may go back to the original rummy plan or I may pick up more Espei rasbora. (they could be trigonostra or what ever cousin species) as they are beautiful and bulletproof fish. Rummynose are anything but bullet proof, but at least they move and are far tighter schoolers than espei's.

The trimming on this tank is bound to be a chore, as I really hope to keep the HC LOW, without it floating out of the substrate. I know that proper 
maintenance through trimming is really important with HC, and on my initial attempt with it failed a few years ago because of the "trim it and maybe it will die off fear" but this time around I plan on being at bit more proactive.

I am curious how tall the DHG "Belem" will grow in relation to the current 1"- 1 1/2" height? I have grown DHG before, but I have no idea what strain it was- it was significantly darker, but a lot taller. It is a pretty aggressive runner and I am not certain how aggressively I wish to control it in the scape. Should I keep the foreground pure HC, mid ground mixed, and DHG primarily background? Or keep th DHG locked into the background only? Hmmm. Let me know what you think.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I am curious what I should do in the next trim. Any advice?


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

Judging by how fast things are growing for you, you'd likely need a lawnmower


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Maybe strips. Cutting along the front lip. It did do a lot for two months from planting. Just leaving the top on has got the little rascals into the moving mode. Hope I can keep it alright


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## GMYukonon24s (May 3, 2009)

Nice tank and looks like your having good growth. I like that size tank.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Hey do you trim your Belem. I am not sure if I should trim mine. Mine is growing in with a curve, unless this is normal.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Re: trimming DHG belem, I have done a haircut twice, and have gone runner hunting a couple of times. My belem has remained compact so far and low. 2" or less height wise. Don't think trimming from the top will do anything negative.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Pretty much there. Will be doing a serious trim within a week. Neons finally getting after it. A siamensis is giving them motivation. He's a bit of a monster. Just a little update. 

I hear there is a sticky for this type of tank. I'll check it out. 

Still contemplating a camera, lens and some practice. A professional photographer friend of mine may take a peak at it.


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## Studman0143 (Mar 20, 2011)

Woah, you're from Utah! Not a common find on here! Do you remember what store you found the rocks at? I recently just got some petrified wood from my Gma in St. George to put in my tanks, love its color.

I'll have to check out your other tanks.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

The rocks came from Kanab, some random rock store.


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

I've been looking at 12 gallon long tank journals... May I know what Light, watts, brand, light between the substrate?

Thank you! you can see my signature, I post my tank there.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Please look at page 1, the equipment is listed there in full.


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## BrokeCurmudgeon (Oct 20, 2012)

Is this tank still up? If so, how about a followup?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

The tank has been rescaped in early January. I (more or less) ignored the tank last summer and when you ignore HC, bad things happen. I had a nearly insurmountable overheating problem when the glass top was on (anytime) and during the entire summer. We don't have central air and rely on swamp coolers-somewhat counterproductive with aquariums. I am not willing to add a chiller to the system. I will be switching over to LEDs in the not so distant future. I have taken the t-5 light down to a single geisemann bulb, since I am not raising HC for sale (anymore), and don't want to deal with that level of light intensity. 

Pictures to follow


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Quick I-Phone shot









The hardscape was rescued from other tanks- you will see some of the same seiryu stones in the original configuration. Not necessarily the best composition, but a little fun and with lots of interesting features IRL. The HC carpet should tie it together nicely and when the Blyxa J. gets after it, it should have a nice mix of texture. I will try to put up some better photo's soon.


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## Green_Flash (Apr 15, 2012)

Looking good! GLA 12g long are pretty rare to find.


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