# Beamswork Owners: Alert



## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Beamswork LED’s seem to deteriorate rapidly. I’ve had my DA FSPEC a little less than two years (about 7,000 hours use - 11 hours/day). For reasons detailed in another post, I needed to take a PAR reading with my Seneye and was shocked to find PAR values have deteriorated by 25% (from 80 at the substrate down to the current 60) over the last 6-7 months. Apparently, when it goes, it goes fast. Checked and double-checked. You might be wise to check yours or, if you can’t, consider the possibility that your plants are getting significantly less light in a year or so period of time. You won’t be able to notice this visually. The PUR pattern is unchanged at 63%.

As a coincidental verification, I also run an Aquaray GroBeam 600 (Cree emitters) next to the Beamswork and have run it about two years longer. The GroBeam PAR is identical to what it was four years ago. I guess quality really does matter. I was expecting to get about 3-4 years out this Beamswork, but it looks like I need to consider Beamswork to an annual disposable.

I would be very interested if other owners of the Beamswork could make comparative readings and relate their experiences. I’d also be interested in comments from some of the lighting experts on our forum, particularly if they are aware of any life cycle comparisons among LED brands, e.g.; taking a premier product such as a Radion, do we know how long they maintain their original output? Does fading, such as this, typically occur in such a sudden way? Lastly, is it possible that my unit is uniquely failing due to another component?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Can only speak about generalizations..
LED's do fade over time and most of this is due to heat decay.
Now that heat is at the diode itself so it's hard to measure.

Certainly is possible that the heat transfer due to 1)poor attachment and 2)cumulative due to high density/current
It's more design than diode quality really. One could just as easily "fade" a CREE w/ improper implementation though CREE (and others) are addressing the issue w/ improving heat tolerance. 

http://shop.innovativelight.com/media/cms/LEDlife525mA_D7A83F1A8C2CC.gif 

Small voltage changes do have large changes on diode output as well. 
IF you want to check get a different (new, not necessarily Beamswork) power supply.

As to the gro-beam.. really low density board creating a lot of SQ inches of heat sink per diode.









There is no sure answers w/out more info...7000 hrs even with high heat is a very short time in a diodes lifespan

Added to this is phosphor decay of white led's

https://www.led-professional.com/technology/thermal-management/thermally-activated-degradation-of-phosphor-converted-white-leds-1#&gid=1&pid=4

Since they fade easier than die.. suggest getting a variable voltage power supply..cheap enough.
https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed 13.5-18V..


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

Deanna said:


> Beamswork LED’s seem to deteriorate rapidly. I’ve had my DA FSPEC a little less than two years (about 7,000 hours use - 11 hours/day). For reasons detailed in another post, I needed to take a PAR reading with my Seneye and was shocked to find PAR values have deteriorated by 25% (from 80 at the substrate down to the current 60) over the last 6-7 months. Apparently, when it goes, it goes fast. Checked and double-checked. You might be wise to check yours or, if you can’t, consider the possibility that your plants are getting significantly less light in a year or so period of time. You won’t be able to notice this visually. The PUR pattern is unchanged at 63%.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I changed power supplies on my finnex led fixtures and they instantly brightened. I did so because one actually failed so I decided to change out the 2nd fixture as well. Now I have fairly “brand new” 3+ year old fixtures which cost me about 5-6 bucks to fix and all thanks to a post I happened upon by our LED guru... jeffkrol!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Since they fade easier than die.. suggest getting a variable voltage power supply..cheap enough.
> https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed 13.5-18V..


I'd like to try this but the link takes me to a page that might as well be in Greek ...to me. What am I supposed to buy there and how is it used? When I think of a PS, I think of the brick that is used. The link seems to be components that are installed inside something.

Also, if I do this, is like going to after burners and the LED will flame out much faster?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Deanna said:


> I'd like to try this but the link takes me to a page that might as well be in Greek ...to me. What am I supposed to buy there and how is it used? When I think of a PS, I think of the brick that is used. The link seems to be components that are installed inside something.
> 
> Also, if I do this, is like going to after burners and the LED will flame out much faster?



well this the model number..
LRS-75-15
LRS series .. 75V..15V
upper right corner.. pick voltage and wattage in the drop down. Add to cart.

check the voltage on your orig power supply .. Believe it should be 15V DC out.Likely 4A or 60Watts (volts x Amps)
Should cover all but possibly the 72" one.
Add # of diodes X .5 = est. watts..or take what's on the power supply.
A power supply w/ more wattage is not an issue. They just cost more..



As to adj. well you only need to tweak the voltage a WEE bit../
Like 15.2V or 14.5V 

Point is to first see if 15V works better than current power supply. Then one can talk about increasing or decreasing output..


Too much voltage and diodes do over heat.. Should just burn out like any light bulb... Would need to go into thermal runaway where heat decreases resistance allowing a larger and large current draw.. then done..Worst case.. Best worst case.. they just decay to dimmer..


wiring is fairly straight forward.. VOM helps..
If you don't want to cut wires these should keep your Beamswork whole..
https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Connector-Female-Security-Adapter/dp/B079R9WCG2

5.5 x 2.1 size jack was fairly common for Beamswork's I believe..

Oh, yea.. that's an enclosed power supply.. Will need to wire a plug to it and of course a wire/jack to go to the light head..
Sounds complicated but it's quite simple..


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> well this the model number.


Good and full explanation and can now see how to do it. However, I'm now considering a new, higher quality light. If I'm going to put another ~$20 to pump up the Beamswork and it's approaching it's end-of-life, I'm thinking it may be best to replace it at this point. Haven't decided as yet.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Deanna said:


> Good and full explanation and can now see how to do it. However, I'm now considering a new, higher quality light. If I'm going to put another ~$20 to pump up the Beamswork and it's approaching it's end-of-life, I'm thinking it may be best to replace it at this point. Haven't decided as yet.



There is currently know way of knowing thwe LED panel is near the EOF...


LED diodes do last 25,000-50,000 hours.. Other electronic parts fail..
Sadly it isn't easy testing switching power supplies..


fact it's an overall dimming not a row out or some other less "global" issue leads me to the ps thing..
I have a hard time beilieving the diodes went this bad in that short of a period of time but ????


From my point of view there isn't enough data. This is like one of the first opportunities to "test" the diodes.. 

Yea a little selfish.. 



I certainty get what you mean about throwing money at it though..


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> There is currently know way of knowing thwe LED panel is near the EOF...
> 
> 
> LED diodes do last 25,000-50,000 hours.. Other electronic parts fail..
> ...


Well, you're turning me back to wanting to try it if, as you said, for no other reason than to test the diode thing. I'll give it a shot and report back. May have some questions when I get all this stuff, anyway


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Since they fade easier than die.. suggest getting a variable voltage power supply..cheap enough.
> https://www.ledsupply.com/power-supplies/mean-well-lrs-enclosed 13.5-18V..


Looking into this more, I see this is open. Can't have little fingers poking around in there. Are you aware of any closed options?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Deanna said:


> Looking into this more, I see this is open. Can't have little fingers poking around in there. Are you aware of any closed options?


https://www.onlinecomponents.com/me...VWPfjBx1A_QouEAAYAyAAEgJbd_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


Can only adj voltage down though..


HLG-(watts)H-(volts)A


you could do the HLG-60H-20A (12-20V) but it tops at 3A.. Amps do increase as voltage is lowered..


Another option..

HLG-80H-20


https://www.onlinecomponents.com/me...VCtvACh2Rog4gEAAYAyAAEgJnQPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> https://www.onlinecomponents.com/me...VWPfjBx1A_QouEAAYAyAAEgJbd_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
> 
> 
> Can only adj voltage down though..
> ...


Current PS is 3A (60 diode), so that would work. however, the price point is definitely pushing me into a new fixture.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

There are cheaper.. just can't guarantee quality..
https://www.amazon.com/Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-adapters-chargers/dp/B07DD6WPLV
https://www.amazon.com/NOYITO-Adapt...VVQA9R9Q25M&psc=1&refRID=S7XFMVHWTVVQA9R9Q25M


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## rebelrebel (May 26, 2018)

If you continue to use the Beamswork, it would be great to have longer term data so that a deterioration plot can be drawn....


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> There are cheaper.. just can't guarantee quality..
> https://www.amazon.com/Adaptor-Transformers-Supply-adapters-chargers/dp/B07DD6WPLV
> https://www.amazon.com/NOYITO-Adapt...VVQA9R9Q25M&psc=1&refRID=S7XFMVHWTVVQA9R9Q25M


I'll try one. Since it's in the realm of an experiment, which one would you pick?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

https://www.amazon.com/NOYITO-Adapt...VVQA9R9Q25M&psc=1&refRID=S7XFMVHWTVVQA9R9Q25M


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Should be here Sunday. I'll post results.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Deanna said:


> Should be here Sunday. I'll post results.



cool..


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> cool..


PS arrived and PAR measured. Results: no difference from Beamswork PS. PAR is unchanged at 25% less that what it delivered up until about five months ago. I can only see fading diodes as the reason. Just surprised at the speed with which they seem to have failed. Any other suggestions will be welcome but, I may now be pointed at the Twinstar or Fluval 3.0. The only other test I can think of is if some other Beamswork owners (who have run it for a year or two) can measure their current PAR and compare it to their original readings.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Deanna said:


> PS arrived and PAR measured. Results: no difference from Beamswork PS. PAR is unchanged at 25% less that what it delivered up until about five months ago. I can only see fading diodes as the reason. Just surprised at the speed with which they seem to have failed. Any other suggestions will be welcome but, I may now be pointed at the Twinstar or Fluval 3.0. The only other test I can think of is if some other Beamswork owners (who have run it for a year or two) can measure their current PAR and compare it to their original readings.



well that's sad..and unexpected..


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> well that's sad..and unexpected..


Yes, but perhaps instructive. Not counting the possibility that these cheaper lights may lose PAR sooner than expected/predicted, it may be a good lesson to us all to take a PAR reading with any new light and check it now and then, just like we do with water parameters. I wonder how many tailspins in plant health or, conversely; algae expansion, are rooted in unnoticed changes in PAR/PUR levels. This would apply to any type of light source.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Deanna said:


> Yes, but perhaps instructive. Not counting the possibility that these cheaper lights may lose PAR sooner than expected/predicted, it may be a good lesson to us all to take a PAR reading with any new light and check it now and then, just like we do with water parameters. I wonder how many tailspins in plant health or, conversely; algae expansion, are rooted in unnoticed changes in PAR/PUR levels. This would apply to any type of light source.



Yea need more data points..
One question though, as to your PAR measurements was it done many over time or one right at the very beginning and then one later?
There are some losses associated w/ cold/warm output..
FUN w/ led's..



https://www.lighting.philips.com/ma...and-light-output/what-are-cold-and-hot-lumens
https://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildi.../ssl/royer_lumenmaintenance_lightfair2014.pdf
https://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/Remote-Phosphor.pdf


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Yea need more data points..
> One question though, as to your PAR measurements was it done many over time or one right at the very beginning and then one later?
> There are some losses associated w/ cold/warm output..
> FUN w/ led's..
> ...


Interesting. Mine were definitely "hot" on all occasions and, since buying the Beamswork, I've taken 5 readings over ~1.5 years and kept the records.


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## [email protected] (May 22, 2019)

By any chance are you using the Dimmer Timmer module? On mine I see a difference in bringhtness with and without the dimmer module. Even with brightness set to maximum the light runs visibly dimmer than when running with the dimmer module completely removed.


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

[email protected] said:


> By any chance are you using the Dimmer Timmer module? On mine I see a difference in bringhtness with and without the dimmer module. Even with brightness set to maximum the light runs visibly dimmer than when running with the dimmer module completely removed.


Although I have one, I am not currently using it for this very reason.


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

After following an excellent discussion comparing LED’s to T5’s going on here: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1299187-t5-vs-led.html, I decided to remain in the LED kingdom when replacing my failing Beamswork. I purchased a Twinstar S-series and am astounded at the vivid colors that it generates in both my plants and fish (much more dramatic than the Beamswork). 

I’m adding some PAR data regarding LED’s: a Twinstar S-series (couldn’t find any PAR readings on this elsewhere on TPT) and a Beamswork DA FSPEC. Below are the substrate readings taken directly under the light and in the center. Both are 24” lights in a 30” wide tank and measured at a distance of 19” from the light (14” of water). Incidentally, for those unfamiliar with how to read these Seneye graphs, the bold black line in the left graph is the actual light result and the small black dot in the right chart is the actual light color temperature plot.

Twinstar S:

At the edges of the tank (still centered along the light plane), there is a roughly 3” offset. Here, the PAR values drop by about 30%, but still respectable at 100+ PAR. A manual $10 dimmer can be used. The Twinstar has a diffuser on it so the heavy shimmer effect does not occur, which is good, IMO, as I was growing weary of the constant heavy shimmer.

The Twinstar causes colors to ‘pop’ far more than any other LED light I’ve had. However, because of this, it took a little while to adjust to it. Ultimately, I found that the strong reds, which can manifest in a slight pinkish effect, were a little too much for my taste, so I added some cheap LED grow light strips I’ve used in the past and covered all of the red diodes, so that only the blue remain. This pushes the color temperature just enough to hit my ideal look. In the image showing this comparison, you can see that PAR is only increased by about 5, with these strips, but the increase is all in the blue part of the spectrum.


















Beamswork FSPEC:

The two images compare the change in light intensity, for my unit, between the initial reading and after a little over a year and a half, which shows the deterioration in output that I found in my Beamswork. 

Note the large difference in light intensity of the initial Beamswork reading as compared to the Twinstar S. Also, note the large difference in red intensity, and this is dramatic in its’ visual effect. I often see questions along the lines of “how do I get my plants to show more red.” While different nutrient strategies can help, the light, itself, can be the vast majority of the difference.


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## markf (Dec 29, 2016)

Thanks for the beamswork info. I have noticed a drop-off in growth and quality in plants with my almost 3 year old beamswork fspec. This most likely is the cause. Just added a new oddysea led strip that has slightly higher par than the fspec.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Deanna said:


> After following an excellent discussion comparing LED’s to T5’s going on here: https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1299187-t5-vs-led.html, I decided to remain in the LED kingdom when replacing my failing Beamswork. I purchased a Twinstar S-series and am astounded at the vivid colors that it generates in both my plants and fish (much more dramatic than the Beamswork).
> 
> I’m adding some PAR data regarding LED’s: a Twinstar S-series (couldn’t find any PAR readings on this elsewhere on TPT) and a Beamswork DA FSPEC. Below are the substrate readings taken directly under the light and in the center. Both are 24” lights in a 30” wide tank and measured at a distance of 19” from the light (14” of water).
> 
> ...


Awesome! Thanks for the good info!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

markf said:


> Thanks for the beamswork info. I have noticed a drop-off in growth and quality in plants with my almost 3 year old beamswork fspec. This most likely is the cause. Just added a new oddysea led strip that has slightly higher par than the fspec.



Odyssea and Beamswork are sort of synonymous..




https://www.made-in-china.com/products-search/hot-china-products/Odyssea_Led.html


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

It does not work like that. 
You need to take a multimeter and measure the power supply output while connected to the light fixture and running the LEDs. If the voltage is lower or the current is higher than the stated specifications on the power supply then it needs to be replaced. This is only the first step. Next is LEDs must have a current limiting power source, so there must be another device between the power supply and the LEDs, unless the actual power supply is a current limited source. The above recommended is not. 

Next is to disconnect and measure current and voltage going into the LED matrix. By multiplying voltage and current you get Watts. This is the real power in Watts supplying the LEDs. Then what? Compare the value to the expected, or to the specification listed or to the original product measurement.


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

Aside from that, the fixture may not necessarily produce 25% less light than before since the intensity is dependent on internal LED temperature. The same drop in light intensity may be found between 24 hour rested unit and several hours running unit. 










Also, the water clarity may have changed since the last test, or if they used cheap thermal compound, then it no longer keeps the LEDs cooled.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Just ran across this thread and I have to say it makes me glad to be using good old T5HO!!!:grin2:

This LED stuff gets complicated!:wink2:


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## Grobbins48 (Oct 16, 2017)

Greggz said:


> Just ran across this thread and I have to say it makes me glad to be using good old T5HO!!!:grin2:
> 
> This LED stuff gets complicated!:wink2:


Makes me want to fire up a T5HO...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Funny thing.. Same thing happens to tubes,










And there is a right and wrong end to heat or cool..


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Edward said:


> You need to take a multimeter and measure the power supply output while connected to the light fixture and running the LEDs. If the voltage is lower or the current is higher than the stated specifications on the power supply then it needs to be replaced. This is only the first step. Next is LEDs must have a current limiting power source, so there must be another device between the power supply and the LEDs, unless the actual power supply is a current limited source. The above recommended is not.
> 
> Next is to disconnect and measure current and voltage going into the LED matrix. By multiplying voltage and current you get Watts. This is the real power in Watts supplying the LEDs. Then what? Compare the value to the expected, or to the specification listed or to the original product measurement.





Edward said:


> Aside from that, the fixture may not necessarily produce 25% less light than before since the intensity is dependent on internal LED temperature. The same drop in light intensity may be found between 24 hour rested unit and several hours running unit.
> 
> Also, the water clarity may have changed since the last test, or if they used cheap thermal compound, then it no longer keeps the LEDs cooled.


I’m going to have to push back on this a little. It is Beamsworks’ job to assure the quality of their product, not mine. Water clarity is outstanding and was at the time of first use and I have no practical way - or desire - to test the heat issue. 

The light is now consistently 25% lower in PAR level than when first installed and when tested about 6 months later. Whatever the specific reason(s) for this, it is a product quality issue and probably due to inferior components being used in these cheaper fixtures. 

We’ll see if the Twinstar lasts as it should. We’ll also see if any other Beamswork owners experience similar failures over the long term.



Greggz said:


> Just ran across this thread and I have to say it makes me glad to be using good old T5HO!!!:grin2:
> 
> This LED stuff gets complicated!:wink2:


Yes, we do need to look for quality in all things. I don’t think that there is a light, of any type, developed by mankind that doesn’t decay over time - even the sun is decaying. It can get overly complicated, which is why we try to find products that are dependable (so we don’t have to fix them or replace them too often). It’s the same with you when you buy your T5’s from the more reliable manufacturers. I think we are only now starting to build a story of reliability among LED suppliers.


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

Every manufacturer today spends more revenue on designing technological modifications to make the product fail in an intentional time frame than anything else, such as environmentally friendly, technological evolution, power efficiency, recycling, commercials or anything else pushed on consumers.


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## indiegamer (Aug 6, 2015)

Thanks for the detailed investigation and posting your findings here. Am looking into getting a new light and this is very helpful.


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

Deanna said:


> The Twinstar causes colors to ‘pop’ far more than any other LED light I’ve had. However, because of this, it took a little while to adjust to it. Ultimately, I found that the strong reds, which can manifest in a slight pinkish effect, were a little too much for my taste, so I added some cheap LED grow light strips I’ve used in the past and covered all of the red diodes, so that only the blue remain.












Pinkish hm, I can see it in this video on the wall behand the aquarium. Not bad. But if it was me and I wanted more blue like you to balance it, I would add the older Beamswork fixture rather than the grow light strip with covered reds for few reasons.

The covered red leds are wasting energy while the older fixture in too low on reds, how convenient. Adding the old Beamswork will not only correct the overall spectrum but also add PAR. This is just my thinking and look how crazy I run it, I have 650W lights power consumption on 125 gallon alone.

This is the video I am referring to:


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Edward said:


> Pinkish hm, I can see it in this video on the wall behand the aquarium. Not bad. But if it was me and I wanted more blue like you to balance it, I would add the older Beamswork fixture rather than the grow light strip with covered reds for few reasons.
> 
> The covered red leds are wasting energy while the older fixture in too low on reds, how convenient. Adding the old Beamswork will not only correct the overall spectrum but also add PAR. This is just my thinking and look how crazy I run it, I have 650W lights power consumption on 125 gallon alone.


I agree about adding the Beamswork which, as was the main reason for this thread, is also much lower in PAR now. In fact, I did try it and, as you mentioned, it does 'correct' the color to my liking. I considered leaving it in, but want to watch the current setup for a while because adding the Beamswork fills up the space over the tank and prevents easy feeding (OK; so I'm too lazy to just lift up the front access flap).

I don't mind the wasted energy (covered reds). These are cheap light strips that just add a little boost to shift the color. Once I'm sure about the benefits of the Twinstar, I'll probably add the Beamswork back in. 

Noteworthy: within a few days of installing the Twinstar, I noticed a very dramatic improvement in my Rotala Macrandra. It would previously only turn bright reddish/pinkish within about two inches of the surface with the Beamswork/GroBeam 600 combination I had going. Now, with the Twinstar, it is even brighter reddish and is consistently this color right down to the base of the plant. The extra 60 PAR (and probably the improved PUR) is making all the difference.


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## BOTIA (Dec 23, 2003)

The beamswork are dieing most likely because they are being driven too close to absolute max drive currents. Always better to use higher rated led's and underdrive them 20% to avoid cascading led element failure! and degradation.
Or cool the crap out with active fan cooling. leds don't like heat...


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Deanna said:


> Noteworthy: within a few days of installing the Twinstar, I noticed a very dramatic improvement in my Rotala Macrandra. It would previously only turn bright reddish/pinkish within about two inches of the surface with the Beamswork/GroBeam 600 combination I had going. Now, with the Twinstar, it is even brighter reddish and is consistently this color right down to the base of the plant. The extra 60 PAR (and probably the improved PUR) is making all the difference.


Not surprised.

In general, more light = more color, although it does vary some by species.

It's not often discussed, but bringing out peak colors requires a good amount of light, and fine tuning light is as important as fine tuning everything else.

Any other changes since the light swap? The plants are a bit more turbocharged now, wondering if you are making any dosing changes??


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Greggz said:


> Not surprised.
> 
> In general, more light = more color, although it does vary some by species.
> 
> ...



You have to be careful since glare can wash out color..
suppose that's why RGB LEDs are a bit more successful at color pop.. less whitish/yellow glare from whites..
That and the tight spectrum..


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

jeffkrol said:


> You have to be careful since glare can wash out color..
> suppose that's why RGB LEDs are a bit more successful at color pop.. less whitish/yellow glare from whites..
> That and the tight spectrum..


Jeff I was referring to more PAR.

Many plants won't reach full color potential without enough light intensity. Turn down PAR and plant color becomes more monotone, raise intensity and get better color and color separation between species. It's tricky, and needs to be dialed in. 

Now as to color of light, that has been a long discussion here many times. I prefer lots of blue/red, others daylight 6500K. To each his own.


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Greggz said:


> Not surprised.
> 
> In general, more light = more color, although it does vary some by species.
> 
> ...


Still too early to tell. There was an immediate improvement in color simply due to the light itself. There is new growth going on, because my ferts are pulling out of whack. So, I’m in for a period of dosage adjustments. I was expecting an algae burst, but this hasn’t happen.

The Macranda, as mentioned, was the most dramatic in coloring-up. The growth/health improvements noticeable, after two weeks, seem to be mainly at the lower levels, such as; Mini AR, Blood Vomit, Dwarf Sag and Golden Ammannia. This isn’t surprising because of the increased intensity. The plants nearer the top are about as healthy as they were before, such as Ambulia, Pantanal, Wallichii and Aromatica, but with better color. At this point, I’m not sure if the color improvement of the taller plants is due to the reflected color balance or increased health. 

I had thought that running in the 70-80 PAR area at the substrate was sufficient to maximize health/appearance (14” below the surface), but it is clear to me that the higher intensity makes a big difference with plants at the substrate level and the PUR of this light is probably an equally important aspect.


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