# Simpler DIY PVC CO2 reactor.....



## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

http://rexgrigg.com/diy-reactor.htm


Only 5 pieces of PVC, two hose barbs and one piece of tubing.

Just for educational purposes. I highly doubt the thing will work. I have no proof I can grow plants. So suspect anything that I build.


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## SCMurphy (Oct 21, 2003)

Hi Rex, welcome back.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Looks fine to me.


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

Hi Rex,

I was wandering if this reactor can be installed in the return line of the canister? So that the co2 does not pass through the filter.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Depends on your filter, but thats usually the reccomended way by most people.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I always recommend that the reactor be installed on the return line. But what do I know?


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

Rex Grigg said:


> I always recommend that the reactor be installed on the return line. But what do I know?


Ok great, I want to make one of your reactors to get the glass diffuser out of my tank but did not want to take a chance on harming my filter by putting co2 through it.

Also, you say there is no need for bio balls in this reactor?

Thanks Rex,

Brian


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

Ok Rex I need your opinion.

I went to Lowes today and was unable to find the exact same stuff that you used for your reactor. Although I think I got what I need and I dry fitted everything together. I posted a pic of it all together below. It is made from 2" pvc and uses brass fittings instead of plastic ones. Also instead of drilling a hole for the co2 hose I used an 1/8" hose barb fitting. Overall length of the reactor is 26".:icon_surp 

So I have three questions 

1. Will this reactor in your opinion serve its purpose?
2. All put together this thing is rather large. Would I be able to shorten it any without affecting its performance?
3. Will the 1/8" hose barb fitting work ok? Instead of drilling the reactor.

Thanks---Brian


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## tropicalfish (Mar 29, 2007)

Brass is not good. Especially in a tank with fish. Go plastic.


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

tropicalfish said:


> Brass is not good. Especially in a tank with fish. Go plastic.


What kind of problems does brass cause? Just curious. Alot of water systems in homes today use brass fittings like ball valves and we fill our aquariums with this water and also drink it. 

DiabloCanine used brass on his reactor. Check it out.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/38006-co2-reactor.html


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

If the reactor is designed properly there is no need to have bio balls in it.

Preston:
1. Maybe
2. Maybe. How much water are you pushing through it?
3. Maybe. The advantage of drilling the reactor is that you get the CO2 injected into the column of moving water (the tubing ends in the middle of the reactor body). With a fitting the CO2 is injected into the edge of the water column which moves much slower.

Brass can leach copper. I have tons of plastic fittings in the correct size.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Lowes has the plastic fittings. And getting the line into the body of the flow through the reactor as Rex mentioned (ie. not just injecting it on the side) is better. I have also seen people using an airstone to breakdown the bubbles more, but I don't see the advantage of that overtime since the airstone is bound to gum up. Shortening the reactor is possible. Testing it out is the only real way to know though.


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## Reeferton (Aug 16, 2007)

Brass is an alloy of Copper and Zinc. I guess it could slowly seep into the water...


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

Rex, add instead of bioballs, the plastic tabs from 6 packs of beer.
Or that bunny grass for easter baskets if you are that type
Or lava rock.
Virtually anything that will not rot.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

The first few reactors I build had bio balls in them. And over time they would clog up and slow the flow. So I removed them. Never had a problem dissolving the CO2 without them.

For a Rena XP-3 filter you can go as short as 18" over all length and still have a decent chance of dissolving all the CO2. It just depends on how much you are injecting.


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

gmccreedy said:


> Lowes has the plastic fittings.


I have now been to Lowes and Home Depot and can not find these fittings.:icon_frow 

Brian


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

And I doubt you will. All the big box stores around here quit carrying the type of elbows we use in both brass and plastic about six months ago.


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

I have found 2 places to have the barbs I want, a Local Hardware store with a giant unit of drawers that are subdivided. Then if they don't have, then send this guy an email. 
I've bought several from him while trying out different designs.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

PRESTON4479 said:


> I have now been to Lowes and Home Depot and can not find these fittings.:icon_frow
> 
> Brian


Wow seriously?? I just bought those exact fittings not more than 2 months ago at a Lowes near me. Not for nothing...but i have to ask...Did you ask someone at the store to help??


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

gmccreedy said:


> Wow seriously?? I just bought those exact fittings not more than 2 months ago at a Lowes near me. Not for nothing...but i have to ask...Did you ask someone at the store to help??


No I didn't. Its usually pretty hard to find good help at my local Lowes. I did spend like an hour in there looking in the section where all the brass fittings, plastic tubing, pvc and pex piping are and was unable to find them. I will check Lowes one more time and will also try some smaller local hardware stores to see if I may be able to find bins of them.

Thanks to everyone for all the advice,

Brian


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

tazcrash69 said:


> I have found 2 places to have the barbs I want, a Local Hardware store with a giant unit of drawers that are subdivided.


Thanks for the tip tazcrash69. I found them at a smaller local hardware store called "Do it Best" hardware. They had a section of bins full of plastic barb fittings. 

Here is a pic of what it looks like now just dry fitted. I am now considering using the center port for the ph probe instead of the co2 line. I will drill a hole like Rex did for the co2 line and pull it through to the center. It is now about 19 1/2" long.

Any opinions would be appreciated.

Brian


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## ganjero (Aug 4, 2005)

what about using a limewood airstone inside the reactor to make the small bubbles?


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## nycsicktank (Sep 15, 2007)

does this pvc reactor work? i was thinking do your diy


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

It worked for me. No problems.

Brian


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

ganjero said:


> what about using a limewood airstone inside the reactor to make the small bubbles?


I would not recommend that because it will clog and get dirty overtime and from what I read it is just not needed. I did what Rex said to do and just pulled the co2 hose through to the center of the pvc and it works great.

Brian


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

You could put a limewood airstone in there. But then you would have to build the reactor in such a way that you could open it up to replace the airstone as they don't last forever. And while doing so is not that hard it will triple the cost of the PVC parts needed.

This reactor is based on the KISS principle. And yes it does work. Works quite well as a matter of fact. I have sent out around 50 reactors using this basic design and have not heard a single complaint.


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## Tdon1md (Jun 3, 2007)

I made one very very similar only I drilled 3/4" holes at the top and bottom of the PVC pipe to create a "cyclone" effect and used water sealing PVC putty to "glue" them in. I also drilled a hole and super glued in place a air line tube in-line fitting. Also, they can be used on the return if you put enough bio max in the bottom of the reactor to cover the outlet + 2". This doesn't slow the flow measurably and the turbulence created by water moving around the bio max dissolves all remaining CO2. Serves basically the same purpose as installing the reactor on the feed side of the canister (CO2 running through the filter media to help dissolve the bubbles completely). Also, installing the reactor on the feed side of the cannister eliminates the priming nightmare that comes from installing it on the output side. Great thread Rex, nice job! Yours is MUCH MUCH easier to make then mine was with much fewer "quirks!!!" Wish your thread was available when I was building mine cuz I'd have used yours for sure! And I still might!:icon_lol:
________
WEB SHOWS


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## Manolito (Jul 5, 2007)

I made my DIY CO2 diffusor too. Using a clear acrylic tubing and PVC caps. The top tube is 2.5" and the bottom tube is 3". Height is 30". I make it tapered because as the water pressure pushes the CO2 bubble downward, the pressure become weaker due to the diameter of the tubing (larger). The CO2 bubbles tend to rise up again. This process of recycling the CO2 bubbles up and down will go on until the bubble is small enough to escape thru the outflow. I also put a control valve on the outflow so the flow can be control.

This turbulence process can be clearly seen in my first prototype - without the bioballs. Seen here where my son is holding it.



















On my second prototype I put a screw on PVC cap so I can put some bioballs inside the tube. I also put a bigger elbow on the intake and outflow so a bigger volume can pass thru. The bioballs will break the CO2 bubbles alot faster.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

They also do a great job of slowing down the flow through the reactor.


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## Minsc (Jul 9, 2006)

After failing to find a single part needed to assemble the PVC reactor here in the state of gentrification, I ended up ordering one directly from Rex.

It arrived last week and got hooked up last weekend.

And the verdict is.... I'm really impressed with this thing. It is a very elegant design, using the minimum of parts necessary. The water flows in directly from the top, so there is very little room for bubbles to accumulate. So far it appears to be 50-75% more efficient than my POC rhinox was.
It looks as if my Rotala najenshan and wallichii are turning the corner back to health, more pearling in general, less surface scum, no weekly cleaning 

Definitely one of the best things I've purchased in a while:thumbsup:


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## milesm (Apr 4, 2006)

rex,

what is the maximum angle off-vertical? due to the low height of my stand, i think i need to tilt it at least 30degrees. thanks.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

That will work. Or just build it shorter. They are way over-built for most uses.


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## milesm (Apr 4, 2006)

rex,

thanks. what would be the minimum length for it to be effective? would a foot long one work? (on output of eheim 2213) thanks.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

A foot might be a bit short. You might get some small bubbles in the tank. If you ran the CO2 line right at the top of the reactor and had it directly in the main flow (in-line with the port) you might be able to get away with it.


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## milesm (Apr 4, 2006)

ok. thanks, rex.

i guess i'll just try to tilt the original version.


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## LordMaximo (Aug 31, 2007)

You can also get a barb screwed into the other side of a reducer fitting, and then add your hose to get the gas into the center of the canister. Almost like a bulkhead fitting, a barb on the outside and a barb on the inside, thus no drilling and worries of any leakage. 
This is how I am adapting my built to the already many examples you guys have afforded this forum. Thanks again to all you have contributed.

Maximo


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## ganjero (Aug 4, 2005)

I built mine but I see a lot of bubbles coming out of the spray bar, I was thiking in adding bioballs to have less bubbles, but I dont want to drecrease the flow, it seems the reactor already decrease the flow. any suggestions?


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

If the reactor has just been set up it can take 24 hours to purge the air trapped in the reactor and on the PVC.


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## LordMaximo (Aug 31, 2007)

I picked up some of those plastic training golf balls for juniors.
I have not tried them out as of yet, was wondering if any of you have thought on the same path?

Maximo


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Does anyone really know what "simpler" means?

This reactor doesn't need anything in it. Due to the size CO2 is dissolved without having any crap in the reactor to slow down flow.


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## Tbone007 (Aug 17, 2007)

Rex,

Do you have the return line run in from the top and then return to the tank from the bottom or vise-versa?


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

The water should flow into the top, and out the bottom, basically making a loop. The CO2 bubble rising against the water flow is what dissolves it. 
If you put the input on the bottom, and the outflow on the top, the bubble would pretty much just flow out. 

HTH


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## Tbone007 (Aug 17, 2007)

What size would be the best for a 90 gal tank??


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

It's really not based on aquarium size but how much water you are pushing through the reactor.


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## Tbone007 (Aug 17, 2007)

Around 900 gal/hr off of my inclosed wet/dry


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

That's a LOT of water. It would require a large reactor to work. 

Something in the neighborhood of 3" in diameter and around 25" long at a minimum. If you T off some of the flow you could get by with a smaller reactor.


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## Jareardy (Jan 29, 2008)

If I have a HOB filter, would I just run the hose all the way up to the top of the tank from the reactor? Thanks a lot for this walkthrough though, if I can use it you just saved me 100 bucks.


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

Jareardy, I hate to say this, but this design is for canister filters. 
If you are using a HOB, then you are going to either need a diffuser, ladder, or some type of powered reactor.
like this: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/58383-electric-co2-reactor.html


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## Adkins.its (Oct 15, 2007)

Hey Rex, I was wondering, I know you said that the volume of the reactor has to do with the output flow on the filter and the amount of co2 you are trying to dissolve. I was just wondering based on my info if you could tell me how small I could get.

10 gallon tank with a cascade 500 which is 115 GPH. Don't know if that full or empty but, I have over 1 liter of ehiem substrate pro, the stock fiber filter and the bio foam. So its maybe 90-100 I am straight guessing though.


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## Ukrainetz (Jul 11, 2007)

Hmmm... I love your new reactor, but I would want to see whats happening inside for peace of mind. What do you think if I use one of those canisters for water filtration (sediment or osmosis filters), and put a piece of acrylic pipe inside so the water goes down the pipe, and then upwards around it and to the aquarium? The units are 10" long I believe, and they will have a pleasing look I believe. Plus there's not much plumbing required...Its all set to go


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

It's just that they are a tad more expensive than a piece of 2" PVC, which defeats the DIY purpose. But if money isn't an issue, go for it!


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

Acrylic pipe sizing and PCV do not match, they sell clear PVC however.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Ukrainetz (Jul 11, 2007)

Really? I'm going to search for it as soon as I get a chance. Know any place they sell it online? (the clear PVC)


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

http://www.usplastics.com does, but you need to order a minimum of ten feet, so it becomes quite a costly endeavor indeed.


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## Ukrainetz (Jul 11, 2007)

Thank you indiboi! This looks very appealing (and not that expensive). Any word on that filter housing I'm thinking on using? Too short? Here are some of them... scroll down for pictures.


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## mcd19 (Apr 30, 2007)

Ukrainetz said:


> Really? I'm going to search for it as soon as I get a chance. Know any place they sell it online? (the clear PVC)


I buy mine here http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product.detail/iid/7010/cid/1859
and they sell it by the foot.


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## Adkins.its (Oct 15, 2007)

If anyone else has a response to my last post, it would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for singling out on Rex. Wasnt thinking


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

To be completely honest, I wouldn't use a reactor on a 10 gallon, but a glass diffuser instead.


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## Adkins.its (Oct 15, 2007)

I know but I can't stand having more than an input and output in my tank in the tank lol.....i have a 200w hydor inline on my 10 gallon. Thats how much I dont like stuff in my display.


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

Based on what I've built I would probably go with .75" or 1" PVC, but just realize you are going to cut your flow flow down with that loop. 

I personally would go diffuser, but if you build it, let us know.


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## Adkins.its (Oct 15, 2007)

I was thinking the same thing if I kept it narrow it may work well still. I will defiantly let everyone know. Probably write a DIY. Maybe call it a nano reactor?

If the flow on the cascade 500 won't cut it, I have fluval 304 that could take its place.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I would go with 1.5" pipe about 12" long.

For clear PVC I use Savko


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## lemuj (Nov 7, 2006)

hey, Rex, i've just collected the pieces, and it just makes me wonder if it would work to put in the heater inside as well... just a thought, instead of making another piping for the heater that might slow the flow a whole lot. 

another question is, do i need a pressurize co2 or i can use diy yeast type co2?


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## shwerm601 (Dec 16, 2007)

lemuj said:


> hey, Rex, i've just collected the pieces, and it just makes me wonder if it would work to put in the heater inside as well... just a thought, instead of making another piping for the heater that might slow the flow a whole lot.
> 
> another question is, do i need a pressurize co2 or i can use diy yeast type co2?


i like the idea of putting heater in the reactor... hmm, might have to try that myself


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## Adkins.its (Oct 15, 2007)

Thanks Rex

Ill post the results once I get it built and running


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## ganjero (Aug 4, 2005)

REX, what's the maxium size tank that you would rate you stadard( 2" pipe by 20" tall, with about 250-350gph) reactor for?


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

shwerm601 said:


> i like the idea of putting heater in the reactor... hmm, might have to try that myself


ask and you shall receive...

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/36257-diy-external-heater-56k.html

and this guy went a bit further...

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/photo-album/44493-ada-mini-s-black-rock-lesson.html


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## ganjero (Aug 4, 2005)

also, whats the max flow that you can use on the reactor (2" wide and 20-20" tall)?


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## stagius (Nov 26, 2007)

So i went ahead and drilled a hole just smaller than my vinyl ID. It fit perfectly, no leaking so far. 

The only thing I hate is that water keep coming out from the reactor, eventually, my 2 DIY CO2 is being flooded with water from the reactor.

Is there some way I can stop that ? I tried a check valve, but seem like my the CO2 gas is not strong enough to push water back into the reactor. Plus, gas build up in the bottle, nearly exploded after a day. 

It would be nice if this vinyl tube can act as a venturi, which pulled CO2 gas into the reactor, instead of pushing water out ?

Did anyone experience this ?


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

I always figured that these reactors were meant to be used with pressurized CO2... in theory a check valve ought to keep any water from passing it, but your CO2 lacking the pressure to overcome the water once it has opened the valve seems quite plausible when using DIY. 


I have a question for the CO2 reactor using masses. 

I built my reactor back when the 1.5" diameter PVC was the order of the day for the Rex model. I see now that it's 2" diameter PVC. I was having a bit of trouble over the past year with micro bubbles and reasoned part of that was the fact my filter was putting out a rather weak flow. I've since upgraded the ecco to a 2217 classic, much stronger flow. I'm still getting some bubbles, though they're slightly larger than before and in fewer numbers. In an otherwise correct reactor, would the extra .5" diameter make the difference here? Or is it the fact that I have a barb for my CO2 instead of drilled hole with tubing inserted to the center?


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Max flow through a 2" reactor seems to be in the ACTUAL 300 gph range. Not rated filter specs.

A barb means that the CO2 can travel down the wall of the reactor. Tubing gets the CO2 into the water column. The flow rate along the walls is much less than the flow rate down the center.

And it might only seem like 0.5" difference but it's a huge difference in area.

1.5" has a surface area of 1.76 square inches
2" has a surface area of 3.14 square inches


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

stagius said:


> The only thing I hate is that water keep coming out from the reactor, eventually, my 2 DIY CO2 is being flooded with water from the reactor.
> 
> Is there some way I can stop that ? I tried a check valve, but seem like my the CO2 gas is not strong enough to push water back into the reactor. Plus, gas build up in the bottle, nearly exploded after a day.
> 
> ...


Did you connect the check valve correctly? Pressure in the bottle should push air/CO2 out of the bottle, not build up to explosion levels.

The filter outlet is under pressure, that's why water is pushing out and towards your DIY contraption. DIY CO2 is strong enough to push against the reactor, but you need excellent seals on the bottles, which is a bit of a problem.

If you want to use this as a venturi, you would not built the reactor, but just inject the CO2 into your canister tubing. Obviously that will not dissolve the bubbles as good as the reactor. Or you could connect the reactor to the canister inlet instead, but be aware that the negative pressure will collapse any plastic bottle and suck DIY solution right into your tank. Glass bottles might work, but you also run risk of airlocking the filter, and exploding glass bottles in case of some congestion in the system.

I recommend not using DIY CO2 with an inline reactor. Better to find some back-pressure-less method, like the Hagen/Nutrafin ladder, or a powerhead bubble smasher.


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

indiboi said:


> I always figured that these reactors were meant to be used with pressurized CO2... in theory a check valve ought to keep any water from passing it, but your CO2 lacking the pressure to overcome the water once it has opened the valve seems quite plausible when using DIY.
> 
> 
> I have a question for the CO2 reactor using masses.
> ...


IME, it makes a huge difference. I had a 2" X 24" reactor on my 2026, and I got air-pockets at the end of the day. I built a new longer one (~ 30") at 1.5 & no bubbles, and no gas pockets at the end of the day. 

The other thing I did when I built mine was to pull the CO2 tubing through, and all the way down till it was 2" above the reactor exit, start everything up, and gently pull the tubing out until I didn't get any bubbles spitting out of my spray bar. (for this I used silicone tubing). Once I was satisfied, cut the excess tubing on the outside of the reactor to 1", put a check valve there, then connected to CO2 resistant tubing. 

The large bubbles coming out of your reactor would leave me to think that the bubbles are just flowing out at the stronger flow. 


HTH


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Thanks Rex!

Like I said, I originally followed the old version plans (as there was no new version then, of course) and it called for the 1.5" PVC. It didn't occur to me at the time that the barb could have an impact. 

I'll probably make another one here soon and follow your instructions more precisely (drilling the hole for the CO2 tubing). Actually I may just drill a hole in a plug and see if that'll solve the problem first before basically starting over.

Quite familiar with the massive increase in surface area even a slightly larger circle has, it's the main driving force behind trying to convince people that the 6" telescope mirror would be a huge difference over the 4" and likewise upwards.

--

Walter, yes, definitely helps, thank you too! I agree, and that was a concern of mine in regards to the bubbles simply being pushed out, I seem to have proven my hypothesis by increasing flow rate, heh.

--

Well, that was easy enough. I took one of the caps I had for closing off the reactor if ever need be, drilled a hole with 13/64th drill bit, which seemed to fit my 1/8" ID - 1/4" OD tubing the best, and away we go. No leaks, though my newbieness to the 2217 did have me splattering some water (totally user error there). I didn't quite get all the air out when I burped the reactor, but I look forward to seeing if this little change will solve the problem, if not I'll just move to 2" PVC. I never really cared about the bubbles, but since I've been fine tuning everything else, I figured I should reevaluate this aspect of the tank too.


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## stagius (Nov 26, 2007)

do people sell any kind of pre-made venturi tube that can fit with PVC sch 40 ? 

I just had a look at the design of a venturi tube, and figured out how it work, but it is hard to apply on the pvc tube.


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## Adkins.its (Oct 15, 2007)

Alright well I got my mini version of a reactor built last night. I have to wait until after work today to set it up. I am waiting for my drop checker to arrive so I can monitor my efficiency as well as the obvious no bubbles in the tank.

Ill also post a picture and a parts list if it works.


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Oh, I ought to give a little update. I haven't really noticed any difference between using the hose barb and pulling the tubing through to the center of the reactor. I get the micro bubbles either way. I don't think I'm going to make a new reactor though, it just doesn't bother me enough.


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## eyebeatbadgers (Aug 6, 2007)

I built a reactor last weekend, the clerk at the Lowe's thought it was a bong (I dry fitted it all together in the store)...

"Now, you ain't one of them pot smokers are ya?"

Also, I think this thread should be a sticky. My .02


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

eyebeatbadgers said:


> Also, I think this thread should be a sticky. My .02


I second that.

I would also like to thank Rex for posting this. I have now built my second reactor this one being clear and it works great! Both were based on Rex's design and the only change made was including my ph probe in it.

Thanks again Rex.:thumbsup:


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## Luis138 (Mar 15, 2008)

What should the length of my pipe be for a 40G tank with a Fluval 304? Most importantly, can a Fluval be used with an in-line reactor? I keep reading contradicting information.

I am barely starting this tank, I have everything except the CO2 unit. I want to go pressurized so I will be buying a 10 lbs cylinder. I will get the regulator, needle valve, etc, later. I have 1,654 questions about those too.

How long should a 10 lbs cylinder should last me on average?

Thank you all,

Luis


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## tropicalfish (Mar 29, 2007)

You can replace your Fluval filter tubing with some flexible tubing instead, people say that they have problems with the ribbed tubing and decide to go to flexible.


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

Yes, you can use a fluval with a reactor. I've had a 304 running one and now have a 404 running a reactor. Just use 5/8" flexible reinforced ( the kind with the nylon ribbing, helps prevent it from collapsing ) tubing that's available at Lowe's or HD to go from the filter to the reactor. Then use the ribbed tubing from the reactor to the tank.


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## Luis138 (Mar 15, 2008)

Jeff5614 said:


> Yes, you can use a fluval with a reactor. I've had a 304 running one and now have a 404 running a reactor. Just use 5/8" flexible reinforced ( the kind with the nylon ribbing, helps prevent it from collapsing ) tubing that's available at Lowe's or HD to go from the filter to the reactor. Then use the ribbed tubing from the reactor to the tank.


Thank you so much. I got the tubing, it fits perfectly. I am just waiting for my CO2 tubing and my elbows from Rex.

Luis


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## MostHated (Mar 13, 2008)

pvc venturi 
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/3537/Venturi-Low-Cost/pvc/0


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## 20 20 (Feb 7, 2008)

Is there any issue with gas buildup inside the chamber?


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

20 20 said:


> Is there any issue with gas buildup inside the chamber?


As long as your reactor is the correct size and your not running a really high bubble rate this shouldn't be an issue.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

I just built a reactor.. I'm surprise to see the drastic drop in pressure.


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## Luis138 (Mar 15, 2008)

mistergreen said:


> I just built a reactor.. I'm surprise to see the drastic drop in pressure.


What do you mean?

Luis


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

the flow is less or is it just me?


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

It should be. You just introduced considerable loses (additional head) on the pump.


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## eyebeatbadgers (Aug 6, 2007)

mistergreen said:


> the flow is less or is it just me?


After I put mine on I also cleaned off my prefilter, and actually had an increase of flow(from the dirty prefilter)

Difference was really minimal for me. You don't have any sharp bends in your hosing do you?

I had a time getting the length of the tube that runs from the outlet of the canister to the inlet of the reactor just right inside my small stand. I ended up using a very stiff beverage grade tubing from Home Depot that was reinforced and it is very difficult to kink.

pm me if you have any more questions about what I did.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

the flow is a bit better because the reactor wasn't completely filled up.
But of course there is a slight drop in flow.


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