# Ramp Timer with Powerful Light bar



## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

Hi guys,

I am about to order either Sunsetter or Current USA Ramp Timer Pro for my BeamWorks Green element 24 x 3W LED Fixture.

The problem is - fixture is only single white LED type, thus I am going to be using single channel on either of the controllers. But controllers state that Max Current- 4 Amp/Channel.

My fixture is 24 LEDs x 3watt each at 15V voltage. Which makes me think I am at 4.8 AMP... does this mean I can't use the ramp timers at all?

Thanks in advance.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

"Which makes me think"
This is the major problem in this issue. You MUST KNOW what the timer can handle(the factory tech list states that) and what the light is and that you don't know.
There is a person on here who does know. his forum name is Jeffkrol.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/members/89793-jeffkrol.html
You can wait till he see's your thread or just PM him and give him the question and maybe a link to your thread.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I am about to order either Sunsetter or Current USA Ramp Timer Pro for my BeamWorks Green element 24 x 3W LED Fixture.
> 
> ...


Yes, unfortunately the Beamswork "may" exceed the specs. 
now a few things, you should actually measure the amp draw of the fixture..Going by "the math" isn't always very realistic.

That is a plus.
Next thing is a minus.. the ratings on the controller are rarely "conservative" so even pushing max wattage (@15V it's 60Watts..
may be problem..

now for the reason for the limit AFAICT:

The power MOSFET is either fairly wimpy or poorly cooled, or poorly wired.... 

All of these units seem to be on the same "chassis" so to speak:
TC420 1.4" LED Programmable Time Controller - Black (12~24V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

Larger MOSFETs and hooking to an Aduino is a DIY Work around..
bildr » High-Power Control: Arduino + N-Channel MOSFET



> *Limitations*
> 
> Transistors like the RFP30N06LE are really great for controlling high-power devices from your arduino, but they do have some limitations. This current configuration is only useful for switching DC current, so don’t try this with an AC source, also MOSFETS have both a voltage and an amperage/current limitation. The RFP30N06LE can handle switching up to 60V, and the amperage is limited to 30A (with heat sink and proper wiring). Anything over a few amps, especially when the current is constant (like in a motor) and not short pulses, I would recommend using a heat-sink. I usually just solder a bent pice of metal to the back, just something to help dissipate the heat. Just note, if you are using more than one of the RFP30N06LEs, you can not solder them to the same heat-sink as the back is connected to the drain of the MOSFET, not the source.


 The RFP30N06LE can handle switching up to 60V, and the amperage is limited to 30A (with heat sink and proper wiring)

ONE small part is what limits the output..mostly..
Or.. Buy a Typhon (basically a pre programmed Aduino) and hook your own MOSFET (w/ heatsink) to the PWM channel..Like so..
(pretend the bulb is a Beamswork)











A Typhon is $44.95 and you have 4 channels..
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Typhon-Typhoon-LED-Controller-8794102479.htm

A few $'s in parts and you got your high power controller..

NOTE though the circuit is simple but "theoretical" in a sense
A messy discussion but lots of good info..
http://www.element14.com/community/...ool-musical-production?displayFullThread=true

For $14 you can get 5 "kits" of high power MOSFET boards w/ connectors..Add one Typhon or Aduino of choice..
391094306336

Put the number in the right place.. 

roughly $66 and you can control 4 HP Beamsworks.. 

30A per channel..
https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/RFP30N06LE.pdf


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Looking at the specs you're over by about 12 watts at 24 volts. And you're at 15 V not 24 so definitely over.

Model#1676
Voltage: 12-24VDC
Max.Wattage: 120 watts @ 24VDC / 60 watts @ 12VDC
Max.Watts per channel:[email protected]/[email protected]


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

Thanks guys... I can pull out an engine from a car and take it apart, then assemble it back together and put it back with no issues. But electronics is just "rocket science" for me :/

I will look at Typhoon for sure... I guess I shouldn't try my $4 ebay inline dimer either


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> Thanks guys... I can pull out an engine from a car and take it apart, then assemble it back together and put it back with no issues. But electronics is just "rocket science" for me :/
> 
> I will look at Typhoon for sure... I guess I shouldn't try my $4 ebay inline dimer either


The Cheap Manual 8Amp (96 Watt) dimmers are just fine.. Right MOSFET.. 












The MOSFET is just a solid state switch that is turned off/on (rapidly) by applying a signal to it's base (small current)










555 is just to "time" the on/off time. Rest is just to protect and clean up the signal, set its period (speed of switching) and put things at the proper level.. 

That signal is just timed at a high rate, like 500- 1000 times per second and is on for longer (always on at 100%) or shorter (say only on 10% i.e 10% dimming)

The above is about what is inside those cheap manual PWM dimmers, in general.
OR more like this really.. Power handling is just dependent on "parts"









http://www.electroschematics.com/9730/high-power-led-dimmer/

Arduino or typhon or any controller (small black box computer) w/ PWM output:











> By connecting a PWM output to the Mosfet gate, it is possible to dim the led. What happens is that the led is turned on and off many times per second (default Arduino PWM frequency is around 500Hz).
> Optionally a pull-down resistor could be connected between Gate and Source. This will make sure that the led is off when the Arduino is disconnected. It is also a good idea to mount a heatsink to the Mosfet.


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

The reason I was looking at something more refined is to have it inline. Seems to me that if I was to buy a cheaper high current controller, wiring it is one thing which will involve splicing the fixture. Another problem I see is to somehow waterproof it. Are you aware of any inline high-current dimmers, even manual one will be fine as I want to just be able to control my light.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> The reason I was looking at something more refined is to have it inline. Seems to me that if I was to buy a cheaper high current controller, wiring it is one thing which will involve splicing the fixture. Another problem I see is to somehow waterproof it. Are you aware of any inline high-current dimmers, even manual one will be fine as I want to just be able to control my light.


buying the correct plugs, you never have to splice anything in... 
That said, if the plugs are matching...
This will work fine 6A:
6A 1-Channel Wireless IR Dimmer with Remote Control for Single Color Strip LED Light (DC 12~24V) 2015 ? $5.99

One end needs to be changed...


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

I just counted my lights and I totally miscalculated. It's actually 64 x 3W LEDs(don't ask me how I came up with 24 number in the past, I don't know  )

So that puts me into 192 wwatt total and 12.8 Amps. I guess I should be looking at not-so-user friendly options for high power application like you mentioned above


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> I just counted my lights and I totally miscalculated. It's actually 64 x 3W LEDs(don't ask me how I came up with 24 number in the past, I don't know  )
> 
> So that puts me into 192 wwatt total and 12.8 Amps. I guess I should be looking at not-so-user friendly options for high power application like you mentioned above


Out of curiosity, what does the power supply say as to capacity?
And is that the 2 power supply unit?

just shift your search for PWM motor controls.. note though that the pulse rates are different usually.. 
Again, just add plugs to match..


> 9-36V 15A 600W PWM DC Motor Speed Control Controller Swicth Light Modulator New





> Operating Voltage: DC9V-DC36V
> Rated Current: 40A（Maximum output current）
> Control Power: 0.01-600W（Maximum current is 15A）
> Quiescent Current: 0.010A
> ...


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> Out of curiosity, what does the power supply say as to capacity?
> And is that the 2 power supply unit?


Not sure I get your question, but I will try: It's single power supply unit with barrel connection 110-230v input and 15v output. I can check the rest of the specs tonight when I get home


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> Not sure I get your question, but I will try: It's single power supply unit with barrel connection 110-230v input and 15v output. I can check the rest of the specs tonight when I get home


Power supply has a sticker (usually) showing voltage in specs and out specs.. 

331591956099
cute little box w/ terminal block..easy to wire plugs into it..

*



10-50V 40A DC Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller 12V 24V 36V 48V 2000W

Click to expand...

*don't get overwhelmed, it is easier than you are imagining..
There are dozens of items that will work at budget prices..
331591956068




> 9-60V 40A DC Motor Speed Control PWM HHO RC Controller Switch 12V 24V 48V 1500W


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

331591956099 Looks quite promising. If I was to get one of these, what would be means of getting it connected to my power supply without splicing wires - want to preserve the fixture as much as I can and also assuming my lack of experience with electronics, the less I touch the better . I assume it goes between power supply and fixture.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> I assume it goes between power supply and fixture.


Power supply plugs into the fixture, right?
Get a female plug that matches. Small piece of wire. Put on input or supply side of the dimmer..

Get a male plug exactly like the one that is already on the Beamswork.. Attach it to a piece of wire and put that on the output side.
run it to the fixture.. 

Many times the power supply will have the pin marking (if barrel is negative, center is positive.. Just connect all wires accordingly..


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

Got it, and the 4 terminals on the dimmer I guess are 2 inputs and 2 outputs, is that right?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> Got it, and the 4 terminals on the dimmer I guess are 2 inputs and 2 outputs, is that right?


Well plus/minus in and plus/minus out..


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

Checked the label on my power supply. 15 V DC 6A :/ So I guess I am ok with even Sunsetter or Current USA.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> Checked the label on my power supply. 15 V DC 6A :/ So I guess I am ok with even Sunsetter or Current USA.


no current:

Max.Watts per channel:[email protected]/[email protected]

37.5W at 15V 2.5A MAX per channel..
If Your ps puts out 6A you will fry the Current ramp timer..


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## CanTank2012 (Oct 10, 2014)

Thanks a lot Jeff, you brought me from a "total noob", to a "total noob with some starting points" on this Led journey 

Is Sunsetter and Current the same thing? They look like they are built on the same chassis, but sunsetter can support stronger current from what I read.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

CanTank2012 said:


> Thanks a lot Jeff, you brought me from a "total noob", to a "total noob with some starting points" on this Led journey
> 
> Is Sunsetter and Current the same thing? They look like they are built on the same chassis, but sunsetter can support stronger current from what I read.


Probably same OEM Chinese factory..who knows anymore.. 
But your right, on paper, the Sunsetter is able to handle more current 4A
DC 12V -24V Sunsetter Controller For 12V LED Strip Lights (Require dimming Control the light emitting time) DC 12V -24V Sunsetter Controller For SMD 3528 5050 RGB LED Strip Lights and Other RGB Light [VTK-Controller-4A]- US$35.00 - vtkledlight.com


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