# Eheim Pro 4+ 600 #2275



## nxreliant1864 (May 30, 2017)

Hi everyone,

So I just installed this filter. My first attempt was quite interesting. As soon as I plugged it in a immediately heard a rumbling noise. I thought hey maybe that's what happens when there's no water, so I pressed the primer button, nada. Tried again and again. Nada. So I panicked and unplugged it until I searched, googled and YouTubed. 
I disassembled it and put it back together making sure everything was aligned properly and tried again. This time it worked. Only thing is every now and then I hear a strange swoosh or random gurgle noise as if there's air maybe trapped inside. 
Idk what to do, its 11:43PM, I wanna sleep so bad but in my head I keep think omg what if I wake up to a swimming pool in my apartment. Ehhh. I can never was scared of HOBs, I can see why, canisters are just risky to a newbie, mentally anyways. 
Do I turns it off, unplug and take everything out again? Do I press Prime while it running? Can I sleep and do it tomorrow without panicking? Lol
There's no fish in the tank, just my plants. 

Thanks guys

Adam


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## SallImSayin (Jan 30, 2017)

First thing I'd do is buy a water alarm for $11 off Amazon or pick one up from wherever else, that would've come in handy, so that you could get some rest. The filter issue, I'm not sure. Mine usually makes that sound when it's bumped.

Wait, this is the first time you've used it. You prime it first, filling the canister, then turn it on. You can't run them without water, without risking damaging or killing the motor. It sounds like everything is up and running. Mine did make that air trapped sounds when I first bought it, on and off. It doesn't anymore, like I said, except when bumped.


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## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

Its just working out the trapped air, you can grab it and tilt it to one side while its running then to the other usually helps. As long as you have good flow you don't need to worry about an airlock. A basin with a water alarm is a good idea for precautionary reasons.

Dan


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

There are lots of ideas on how to do the startup but I find following the Eheim directions works best for me. 
They do it like this:
With the canister empty and the valves closed. fill the tank to normal level so the the intake is in the water. Clear the line from the canister back to the tank and fill the line pulling water from the tank to the canister. 
You now have a siphon on this tube ready to pull water down to the canister, so open the valves and let the water flow. It will fill the canister from bottom to top, forcing the air out as it fills up the canister and the output tubing all the way up to the same level as the tank water. If your spray bar is in the water, you will know when it is finished filing when all the bubbling, gurgling noise stops. that's the air being forced out of the canister! Now all you have to do is plug the motor in and it is easy for it to boost the water enough to go up and over the tank rim. If you have some gurgles and noise, you can pump the primer a couple times if it bother you or you can just wait a few minutes and it will clear the last bit of air and the noise will stop. 
Big important thing to know is that the motor is at the top of the canister and it is a type that will not pump or move air. 
That makes it important to let the siphon you have do the filling. Some can get by with filling the canister but some don't. When you clean and close the valves before taking the tubing off the can, the water should stay in the tubing and be ready to siphon down and do it for you. If The tubing is run short and somewhat straight up with no big droops to hold water, the prime button is often not needed unless there is a bit more air than you want in the can. Doesn't hurt to pump it but not really needed in most cases. 
DO NOT run the motor when drive as the water is what lubes the impeller. Without water, running it too long can scratch and wear out the impeller and shaft way too soon. 

Best of luck and they are great filters once you get used to the new methods. Bit of learning but sweet once we get it down.


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## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

PlantedRich said:


> There are lots of ideas on how to do the startup but I find following the Eheim directions works best for me.
> They do it like this:
> With the canister empty and the valves closed. fill the tank to normal level so the the intake is in the water. Clear the line from the canister back to the tank and fill the line pulling water from the tank to the canister.
> You now have a siphon on this tube ready to pull water down to the canister, so open the valves and let the water flow. It will fill the canister from bottom to top, forcing the air out as it fills up the canister and the output tubing all the way up to the same level as the tank water. If your spray bar is in the water, you will know when it is finished filing when all the bubbling, gurgling noise stops. that's the air being forced out of the canister! Now all you have to do is plug the motor in and it is easy for it to boost the water enough to go up and over the tank rim. If you have some gurgles and noise, you can pump the primer a couple times if it bother you or you can just wait a few minutes and it will clear the last bit of air and the noise will stop.
> ...


There are no ball valves on this model. What I did with mine and it may different on yours as mine was older was remove the black cap on by the intake and fill with water until completely full then recap. Output should start to fill up as you go. Then start up. Once you get all the air worked out from the initial startup you will not have this problem again as when you disconnect the hoses there is a lever that acts as a shutoff for valve for both hoses and will keep them full of water while you do maintenance.

My prime button didn't work.

Added: If you ever tear it right down again just hook everything up and keep hitting the prime button until it fills and stops gurgling.

Dan


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## nxreliant1864 (May 30, 2017)

I hope I didn't break it. 
I must have been really sleepy bc I just reread the directions. I plugged it in before priming whereas I should have primed then plug in. It's quiet now I just hope those seconds it was running without water didn't damage the system :-( it's quite pricey. Lesson learned. 

As for the water alarm; that's quite interesting, never knew it existed, thanks guys. 

New question, my spray bar is a little too big for the side of the tank which is only 12". 
Can I cut the plastic with a saw or buy an additional piece? The intake is also to long for my height when I add the pre filter, I only have about 2" give it take a few cm depending on location. It's a standard 55 Aqueon gallon tank and I guess the 600 series filter is made for a larger tank, ooops. 
Chop off plastic pieces or buy compatiable components.


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## osmosis (Apr 19, 2017)

There is no ball valve on the 600, but the open/closed paddle on the plug that goes into the filter serves the same function.
I cant imagine why cutting it wouldn't work, but it will restrict the flow a bit.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

The valves I was referring to are in the lever part that disconnects from the housing on the 2075. A bit different than the older model and I like them much better but they can be hidden until we think about what happen. 
Does your model not have the grey sections of spraybar? My 2075 has several sections to fit together to make it as long or short as needed. One of the points that I felt was a big improvement over the Classics (2217) is the spray bar color and the sections as it does give options without having to make a final cut which can't be reversed. They may have made some decision to reverse that move when they started the even newer 2275? 
One point that I find that works for me is that the Sunsun in/out are the same size and very cheap. I now run my Eheim with a Sunsun intake as it has a builtin surface skimmer. I can swap out for the Sunsun at around $5 and get a much better surface skimmer than the stand alone models that I have tried. 
But one complaint that I do have is how fast the model numbers are being developed and then using ones which are so close that I easily confuse the various models! A bit of difference in 2217, 2075 and then 2275! The 2075 is my chosen favorite but now no longer finding it available has pressed me into trying the Sunsun.


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## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

osmosis said:


> There is no ball valve on the 600, but the open/closed paddle on the plug that goes into the filter serves the same function.
> I cant imagine why cutting it wouldn't work, but it will restrict the flow a bit.


It does serve the same function but just cannot be primed the same way as described with ball valves. That's why it has a prime button. You can't start a syphon on only the intake like the non pro models then connect it and open the ball valves.

Dan

Bump:


PlantedRich said:


> The valves I was referring to are in the lever part that disconnects from the housing on the 2075. A bit different than the older model and I like them much better but they can be hidden until we think about what happen.
> Does your model not have the grey sections of spraybar? My 2075 has several sections to fit together to make it as long or short as needed. One of the points that I felt was a big improvement over the Classics (2217) is the spray bar color and the sections as it does give options without having to make a final cut which can't be reversed. They may have made some decision to reverse that move when they started the even newer 2275?
> One point that I find that works for me is that the Sunsun in/out are the same size and very cheap. I now run my Eheim with a Sunsun intake as it has a builtin surface skimmer. I can swap out for the Sunsun at around $5 and get a much better surface skimmer than the stand alone models that I have tried.
> But one complaint that I do have is how fast the model numbers are being developed and then using ones which are so close that I easily confuse the various models! A bit of difference in 2217, 2075 and then 2275! The 2075 is my chosen favorite but now no longer finding it available has pressed me into trying the Sunsun.



OK mine must be different because I could not start the syphon on the intake. Unless I was misunderstand what you were saying. which is probably the case

Dan


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## nxreliant1864 (May 30, 2017)

My 600 didn't come with extra parts for flexibility as you describe. One spray bar that's at least larger than 12 inches. My 55 gallon 48"x12"x18" I believe, I just need at least 1.5 inches off to be able to have it where I want it otherwise it had to stay the long way with the flow being directed toward the viewpoint which I don't like. I want the flow more fluid so intake from the lower left and outtake from the top right. 

As for the intake and still need to chop some length too bc I can't get my prefilter in. 
:-(
Gonna take out the electric saw and do a horror flick soon.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

nxreliant1864 said:


> My 600 didn't come with extra parts for flexibility as you describe. One spray bar that's at least larger than 12 inches. My 55 gallon 48"x12"x18" I believe, I just need at least 1.5 inches off to be able to have it where I want it otherwise it had to stay the long way with the flow being directed toward the viewpoint which I don't like. I want the flow more fluid so intake from the lower left and outtake from the top right.
> 
> As for the intake and still need to chop some length too bc I can't get my prefilter in.
> :-(
> Gonna take out the electric saw and do a horror flick soon.


Ah shoot! I'm getting confused again! I thought it was a bit of typo when I saw 2275/ 600. My mind jumped to the 2075/600 that I have but then in looking around I see that your filter is what I assume is the replacement for what I have and it does look like they dropped back to not providing the segments that I like so much. Bummer! I like the segments for the versatile way I can arrange the spraybar to shoot some water up and some water down. 
For the priming question, I'm calling it ball valve at the intake block but I don't actually see the valve so don't really know if it is ball, gate, etc. My way of using it is to close and remove the block form the can and then hold a thumb over the input line to hold the water and siphon on that side while I open the lever and let the output tube drain to clear the water. Doing that I do have a siphon ready to go when I replace the can and open the lever/valve/ball valve that holds the water. Without water in the output line, the water is simple to siphon in, fill the can and go on to fill up to tank water level. 
On the tanks where I have the output tube longer than the input, I may/may not have trouble priming if I leave the output full of water. Lots depends on how I've run my tubing. If the canister is near center and there are no large droops, reactors, etc. to hold water , the prime is very easy with little need of the prime button.


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## nxreliant1864 (May 30, 2017)

The numbers are sure confusing but hey, what can we do. 

I noticed clumps of petroleum jelly floating on top of the water today. It's got to be lubricant bc they sure put a lot of it inside these Eheim. 
How can I safely remove the goop from my net without using harsh chemicals. Petro is really sticky.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I use jelly for lots of things I want to lube just a bit but it does take some planning. Part of that is wiping off almost all of it so that it doesn't leave a bog to get grit in it. Sounds like wiping is the best way to get the excess off as it doesn't wash off with water. One of the good points it that it doesn't get into the water. I think there might be lots fewer cases of leaks on canisters if people did lube the O-rings so they would slide instead of just wadding up when we put the lid on. 
One of the simple things that make life work better is to keep a small jug of jelly at the sink where I clean my filters. That makes it easy to dip a finger and run it around on anything that needs to slide or works to seal like the O-rings. I wipe it on, work it into the little spots and then wipe off as much as I can. If you have gobs floating, somebody got carried away! I find it also makes sliding tubing on fittings go much easier.


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## nxreliant1864 (May 30, 2017)

Wiped it up. Wasn't too bad. 

Why is it nearly impossible to locate the Black Eheim 16/22m tubing?
I've searched everywhere. 
They only gave me bare minimum tubing. I can't do anything. I wanted to relocate the canister to a safer place so when I clean it or if god forbid I have a spill it won't be on the wood but nope, I'm trapped. 
Only thing I see is the green one. Is it me? Or is it not sold?

What if I buy a small piece of the green from Big Al's Pet store online, can I use a connector to connect the black to the new green?


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