# ext5000



## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I bought this thinking I could do away with the 7-up look. I like the idea but I do believe that the clear container should have been longer for more faster flow rate. I'm using this on my 110g tank to replace my Atomic diffuser.
I have a Eheim 2262 that i connected too and I see a lot of micro bubbles dancing around in my tank? My co2 is like a stream just to get my DC to turn green by the end of the day.
I've check for leaks an every thing is ok , I do see a lot of co2 passing thru the sponge by the force of my filter flow, should I replace the sponge or will this slow the flow down if a more finer sponge was use? How about adding some micro bio balls to break up the force of the water going in?


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

If i had to guess, too much flow...try to cut it down a bit


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Yes I also think is the flow, I need something to break up the flow in the canister or get a longer canister for the reactor would also work.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will any type house filter wrench work in removing the canister to this reactor.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I would think so as long as the it grips the cannister.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Is the thread size of the canister a normal npt. I notice they come in 
ether inside or outside threads . I wounder if I find a longer canister will it fit the ext5000?
I didn't see any markings on the house filter to see what brand it would be?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

IMO: I thinks is got to have a longer canister {20inch long} and a a little stiffer sponge to able to hold shape when the faster flow hit's it {I notice that the sponge that came with collapse where the flow hit's it and that's where the co2 collects and goes out into the tank} I've called tec support at http://www.aquariumplants.com/ and ask if a longer could be order , He said he will let me know if it could or if he can find another way for this to work for a faster pump flow. 
So crossing fingers and toe's!!


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

Do you think that installing a bypass using a tee before and after the reactor with a ball valve to modulate the flow through the reactor without reducing the pump flow capacity. Know what I mean?


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

This housing looks like it might fit:

http://www.waterfilters.net/20-3G-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html

If I had the time and some cash I would order and give it a go.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I was look at that too Craigthor . I think a 20inch will work better , the tec service from 
Aquariumplants.com said he is going to check an see if he got one laying around or he can order the 20inch canister for me or see if he can come up with another that size.
I hope he comes thru , I did told him I was disappointed because it states that it will work with any size pump that is the reason I bought it.

{ Even though this Reactor is adequate for aquariums up to 1000 gallons, we still highly recommend it for ALL aquarium (with an external filter or pump system) no matter what the size... } 

except Eheim 2262 filter should had been listed IMO hehee!! , Told him I was using more co2 to get my drop checker to go green than when I was using the Atomic diffuser , maybe they will come out with a second size to sell.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Definitely let me knwo what they find out may be worth the upgrade as well on my end once I got to my sumped system with larger return pump.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

It funny this topic comes up now, as I have the same reactor, and I am trying to figure out how to connect it to my 125 g with sump. I was going to put it inline after my return pump, but it sounds like I will have the same problem with to much flow. I have 2 returns on my tank, and my pump is MAG18.

Thanks


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I'll be using a mag 24 but had planned to have a bypass line with lower flow to run the UV and CO2 reactors.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Any suggestions how to setup a bypass line? I will be doing all my plumbing later today, this is for new tank as well. 125g. Right now, my return pump goes into a T, which then goes to each return on the sides of my tank. I have a maxi jet 900 that on my UV, which is in the sump. I would rather not put the CO2 reactor on this, but if it comes down to it I guess I could.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

To make it easy I would jsut run the reactor and UV on the maxijet.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Craigthor said:


> To make it easy I would jsut run the reactor and UV on the maxijet.


 
I knew you were going to say that, the flow rate only 247 gph though with the 900. Do you think that would be enough? My UV is external, I was going to put the 900 in the sump on one end, and have it return on the other end of the sump. If I did add the reactor, where would I have it return, I assume in the sump as well?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> IMO: I thinks is got to have a longer canister {20inch long} and a a little stiffer sponge to able to hold shape when the faster flow hit's it {I notice that the sponge that came with collapse where the flow hit's it and that's where the co2 collects and goes out into the tank} I've called tec support at http://www.aquariumplants.com/ and ask if a longer could be order , He said he will let me know if it could or if he can find another way for this to work for a faster pump flow.
> So crossing fingers and toe's!!


Please let me know what happens with this, as I am having the same problem. It a great reactor, just high flow seems to have a problem with.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Was just going to post on your thread Jim PA. 
Will post the out come if it takes weeks to hear from them. If I get a chance I would like to replace the sponge with a more stronger one and see if it helps a little .


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Just curious if you heard anything back from them yet?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Mine from aquarium plants dot com. The person I talked with said it would be fine with my mag18

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Craigthor said:


> Just curious if you heard anything back from them yet?


No not yet! I hope he did not brush me off!! 
It was just last week thou.


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## Booger (May 17, 2004)

I have an Eheim 2262 and built a reactor out of this monster housing, a couple ball valves, a 1/8" mpt 3/16" brass barb (I drilled and tapped), and a little pvc.

Pro tip: There is no CPVC that forms a perfect slip fit like with the smaller canisters. I gently heated a sch. 40 pvc coupling with a heat gun until it was pliable enough to stretch over the housing output and then ran a bead of thick pvc glue around where the 2 pieces mate for good measure. Then glue a ~14" length of pvc into the other end of the pvc coupling.

It was expensive and I still had to build it, but it works well. No air injectors, extra pumps, noise, mist, escaping bubbles, or flow robbing media. Only caveat is that it will tend to air lock after you first prime it (you know, since it doesn't let _any_ air escape). I carefully crack the union ball valve open on the input to bleed it.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Booger said:


> I have an Eheim 2262 and built a reactor out of this monster housing, a couple ball valves, a 1/8" mpt 3/16" brass barb (I drilled and tapped), and a little pvc.
> 
> Pro tip: There is no CPVC that forms a perfect slip fit like with the smaller canisters. I gently heated a sch. 40 pvc coupling with a heat gun until it was pliable enough to stretch over the housing output and then ran a bead of thick pvc glue around where the 2 pieces mate for good measure. Then glue a ~14" length of pvc into the other end of the pvc coupling.
> 
> It was expensive and I still had to build it, but it works well. No air injectors, extra pumps, noise, mist, escaping bubbles, or flow robbing media. Only caveat is that it will tend to air lock after you first prime it (you know, since it doesn't let _any_ air escape). I carefully crack the union ball valve open on the input to bleed it.


Yep that is almost identical to the Pentek one I posted about earlier. The Pentek is about $50 for the setup.

Craig


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## Booger (May 17, 2004)

Craigthor said:


> Yep that is almost identical to the Pentek one I posted about earlier. The Pentek is about $50 for the setup.
> 
> Craig




Yeah the one I used has larger fittings (1" vs. 0.75") and has a larger diameter (7.25" vs. 5.375") housing. I went for the bigger one because I like to think it flows better, but I can't really say for sure if that's true and by how much.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Booger do you get 100% diffusion any bubbles escape into you tank?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Booger do you get 100% diffusion any bubbles escape into you tank?


 
I will let you know how mine works out on my new tank, I plan to startup this weekend. Soon I figure out where to put it, funny 6 foot stand fills up fast with sump under it. Don't think I left enough room. Any idea where to find new pot scrubber that fits? I looked at several dollar stores today, with no luck.


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## Booger (May 17, 2004)

inkslinger said:


> Booger do you get 100% diffusion any bubbles escape into you tank?



My dislike for bubbles/mist shooting out of filter outputs is a big reason why I built this thing. My reactor is undefeated. Not a single bubble of any size has ever escaped its jaws. The smallest microbubbles still only make it about halfway down the housing before they are completely dissolved.


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## Booger (May 17, 2004)

Jim_PA said:


> I will let you know how mine works out on my new tank, I plan to startup this weekend. Soon I figure out where to put it, funny 6 foot stand fills up fast with sump under it. Don't think I left enough room. Any idea where to find new pot scrubber that fits? I looked at several dollar stores today, with no luck.



A pot scrubber for the reactor? If you use a big housing, you can and should skip the pot scrubber. It's only going to rob flow and get gunked up.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Booger said:


> My dislike for bubbles/mist shooting out of filter outputs is a big reason why I built this thing. My reactor is undefeated. Not a single bubble of any size has ever escaped its jaws. The smallest microbubbles still only make it about halfway down the housing before they are completely dissolved.


May I ask what size is your tank and how fast is your co2 , are you running into it the reactor? and what is your PH or Drop Checker reading at. 
As long as I had my DC I don't think I ever saw it hit green and never saw yellow colors, even when I had a fast stream of co2 bubbles coming out of the bubble counter.


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## Booger (May 17, 2004)

inkslinger said:


> May I ask what size is your tank and how fast is your co2 , are you running into it the reactor? and what is your PH or Drop Checker reading at.
> As long as I had my DC I don't think I ever saw it hit green and never saw yellow colors, even when I had a fast stream of co2 bubbles coming out of the bubble counter.



Tank is ~65 gallons and CO2 is... a lot (to compensate for 2x 150 watt halides), so the bubbles are coming out faster than I can count. PH is around 6 usually with my soft water. No trouble getting more CO2 in the water than any fish can tolerate. Ask me how I know .


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Booger said:


> the bubbles are coming out faster than I can count. PH is around 6 usually with my soft water. No trouble getting more CO2 in .


So that been said having a longer canister does work for a faster flowing 
filter , WoW an Eheim2262 filter in a 65g tank.

:hihi:


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Makes me want to retro the EXT5000 with the longer cannister body. Bet I could elave everything else as it and just extend the PVC tube in the center. Thinking about getting a couple of the 20" cannisters to test out.

Craig


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Craigthor said:


> Makes me want to retro the EXT5000 with the longer cannister body. Bet I could elave everything else as it and just extend the PVC tube in the center. Thinking about getting a couple of the 20" cannisters to test out.
> 
> Craig


Was thinking the same thing just add a 1in coupler and extend the pvc, but wounder if you can get way with loosing that cordgrip to slide the cord down more if it will cause it to leak or just order a new one :

http://www.heyco.com/Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips/

Let me know how you make out with it. I send Aquariumplant.com an email yesterday and will give them a call some time next week to ask if he found a solution . 

I do believe he brush me off !!! :icon_evil


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

inkslinger said:


> Was thinking the same thing just add a 1in coupler and extend the pvc but wounder if you can get way with loosing that cord gripe to slide the cord down more will cause it to leak?
> Let me know how you make out with it. I send Aquariumplant.com an email yesterday and will give them a call some time next week to ask if he found a solution .
> I think he brush me off!!! :icon_evil


Honestly I don't think extending the pump down further should really be needed as long as I can fit it in the cannister. The pump is just for breaking the bubbles up that sit at the top of the chamber.

Craig


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

So doing away with the pump and sponge or just extending the pvc fuhrer down ? 


Craigthor said:


> Honestly I don't think extending the pump down further should really be needed as long as I can fit it in the cannister. The pump is just for breaking the bubbles up that sit at the top of the chamber.
> 
> Craig


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will I called 2 weeks later and sadly Tec service from 
AquariumPlant.com could not help me in any way. They said they use 1 ext5000 on each of there 1000g tanks they have with no problem , No bubbles get blown out into the tank and it drops there PH down fast. They sell the Eheim 2262 for a long time {it's where I bought mine from but he he did not know that the 2262 uses a 900gph pump?} 
Will he said that I should try to lower the flow some how or add a Wye and have 2 returns he told me that they run there co2 at 1 to 2 bubbles per second on there 1000g tanks! and there regulator output psi is set at 15psi. And if I find the problem that I have and fix it to let him know what I did? He said a longer 20inch canister would not correct the bubbles getting blown out into the tank.
He also said they have never had any complaint of this co2 reactor?


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## Booger (May 17, 2004)

Bottom line is that a standard sized canister won't work for a high flow, high CO2 setup. Come on, you can tell just by looking at the thing! Go big or go home :hihi:.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Booger said:


> Bottom line is that a standard sized canister won't work for a high flow, high CO2 setup. Come on, you can tell just by looking at the thing! Go big or go home :hihi:.


That's Right!! He said the bigger filters were too costly
that they would have to charge over $200. ea. for them.


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## brooklynfishman (Feb 12, 2012)

Glad i saw this post. I have a 125 and I am having the same problem!!!

I am finding that I have to open up the bps dial ALL the way open with the PSI set VERY VERY high like more than half way (cant remember the numbers off hand as I am at work now).

Anyway, I am getting tons of bubbles and burping in the tank. Forgot to mention that the reactor is running off an Eheim Pro 3 2180, 450 gph.

So I take the bottom line is either a bigger canister or a T valve for a double return?

I too wrote several emails to aquariumplants.com and never got a response. Wonder what happened, they used to be pretty good.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Mark from Tec Support told me that this reactor is suppose to have 15psi of co2 to work proper and 1-2 bubbles per second for a 1000g tank? WTF! I drop my pressure and bubble count down to 3bps just to tried
out his idea, no dice still had fewer bubbles and my plants were not even 
pearling had to up the count and bite my tongue on the micro bubbles flowing around my tank. Just until I can pick up a 20inch filter to replace this. 
Butbrooklyfishman I do believe that you might need to add a ball valve at the reactor to lower the flow a little. 




brooklynfishman said:


> Glad i saw this post. I have a 125 and I am having the same problem!!!
> 
> I am finding that I have to open up the bps dial ALL the way open with the PSI set VERY VERY high like more than half way (cant remember the numbers off hand as I am at work now).
> 
> ...


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Mark from Tec Support told me that this reactor is suppose to have 15psi of co2 to work proper and 1-2 bubbles per second for a 1000g tank? WTF! I drop my pressure and bubble count down to 3bps just to tried
> out his idea, no dice still had fewer bubbles and my plants were not even
> pearling had to up the count and bite my tongue on the micro bubbles flowing around my tank. Just until I can pick up a 20inch filter to replace this.
> Butbrooklyfishman I do believe that you might need to add a ball valve at the reactor to lower the flow a little.


 
Same problem with mine. I have it setup off of a Y, and it own line back to my primary return line. The other thing I noticed the way I have it setup, about only half the filter fills up with water, is that normal? Or should the entire thing be full? In order to get enough CO2 into the tank, I had to bypass my CO2 controler. PH is down to about 6.2 right now, way less than I like to keep it.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> Same problem with mine. I have it setup off of a Y, and it own line back to my primary return line. The other thing I noticed the way I have it setup, about only half the filter fills up with water, is that normal? Or should the entire thing be full? In order to get enough CO2 into the tank, I had to bypass my CO2 controler. PH is down to about 6.2 right now, way less than I like to keep it.


Jim I do think that it should be full but I also think that you should have 2 returns . I had problems last year with a high pressure pump causing heat friction, my temps were hitting in the 90F's . I had a "Y" before an after my filter and co2 and back to one return. And years ago I use a close loop for my co2 and a filter running on one end and co2 on the other end , my plants grew better where the co2 was coming out?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Jim I do think that it should be full but I also think that you should have 2 returns . I had problems last year with a high pressure pump causing heat friction, my temps were hitting in the 90F's . I had a "Y" before an after my filter and co2 and back to one return. And years ago I use a close loop for my co2 and a filter running on one end and co2 on the other end , my plants grew better where the co2 was coming out?


I have not noticed heat friction or high temps. This is crude layout of the way it setup now. Do you suggest I change it? If so what should be changed?


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

So whos gonna order the 20" canister first and see if it works?


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Deahttub said:


> So whos gonna order the 20" canister first and see if it works?


I probably will in a week or 2.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

If i knew the canister would fit without leaking id buy it in a sec....


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Deahttub said:


> If i knew the canister would fit without leaking id buy it in a sec....


This cannister should fit the CarbonDoser setup, http://www.waterfilters.net/20-3G-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html#tablist, I plan on tryign them out soon.

Craig


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

If you think its the right fit i think i will try it...is there a tool to unscrew it?


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Deahttub said:


> If you think its the right fit i think i will try it...is there a tool to unscrew it?


Mostly think it will. Here is the tool to remove the cannister:

http://www.waterfilters.net/Culligan-Pentek-SW-2-Water-Filter-Wrench.html


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Craigthor said:


> This cannister should fit the CarbonDoser setup, http://www.waterfilters.net/20-3G-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html#tablist, I plan on tryign them out soon.
> 
> Craig


Link doesnt work for me...


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

http://www.waterfilters.net/Culligan-Pentek-SW-2-Water-Filter-Wrench.html


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Heh wrench one works, canister doesnt....thought it was my phone that it wouldnt work on


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

http://www.waterfilters.net/20-3G-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Welp i bit the bullet....ill let you all know if it works! Looking at the housing, the powerhead is going to have to be lowered, but the fitting that the cord goes through looks like it can be loosened. All i will have to get is tubing to fit on the powerhead...whats the consesnus, scrubbie in the housing or not?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Hey! Deahttub, Let us know how you made out, I was looking at the Spec. on the two 20" house filters

Pentek: Dimensions of #20 Clear Whole House Housings: 23" x 5-3/8" (584 mm x 137)
Maximum Pressure: 125 psi (8.62 bar)
Initial ΔP (psi) @ Flow Rate (gpm): 1 psi @ 10 gpm (0.07 bar @ 38 lpm) 
3/4 inlet / outlet

Watts: Dimensions of #20 Clear Whole House Housings: 23-3/4" x 7-1/8" (603 mm x 181 mm)
Maximum Pressure: 90 psi (6.2 bar)
Initial ΔP (psi) @ Flow Rate (gpm): 1 psi @ 15 gpm (0.1 bar @ 57 Lpm)
1" inlet / outlet

Took a closer look at the Watts filter it will not work with the ex5000 because the threads are on the inside the filter and ours are on the outside of the filters. Unless your planning on building a new reactor.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

I bought the pentEk one...hopefully it works...if not then ill build a new one with it...the cabon doser just isnt efficient enough for me....


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> I have not noticed heat friction or high temps. This is crude layout of the way it setup now. Do you suggest I change it? If so what should be changed?


That's the way I had mine set up , But I was using pvc and I had a Blueline 55 HD 1100g pressure pump with 2 leg one for my Nu-Clear 533 an 547 the other 
for my co2. The problem was my bottle neck after the co2 and filter where 
both would come back together than back out too 2 returns =

>---<

IMO: have 1 "Y" and 2 returns and maybe a Ball Valve on the empty return side to adjust the flow into the reactor that way you can tune your returns to be the same out put.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> That's the way I had mine set up , But I was using pvc and I had a Blueline 55 HD 1100g pressure pump with 2 leg one for my Nu-Clear 533 an 547 the other
> for my co2. The problem was my bottle neck after the co2 and filter where
> both would come back together than back out too 2 returns =
> 
> ...


 
Thanks for the info, though if I am reading that correct, then I would have CO2, only being returned on 1, and only going to 1 side of the tank? Is that correct? I would assume things on one side would be much better than the other?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

You can try a spray bar on the co2 side an place it in the center of the tank face to the front of the tank and the other return on the end. It might spread your co2 better. Or wait to see what Deahttub comes out with with the 20in filter.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Well I placed order for one tonight, so we will see as well.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> I bought the pentEk one...hopefully it works...if not then ill build a new one with it...the cabon doser just isnt efficient enough for me....


Did you get yours in yet? Mine supposed to be in on Friday, but I am out of town until Sunday, so I won't be able to work on it until then.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Jim_PA said:


> Did you get yours in yet? Mine supposed to be in on Friday, but I am out of town until Sunday, so I won't be able to work on it until then.


Not yet...hopeully tomorrow


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

I've had no problems at all with the EXT5000 being powered by a 2217 canister on a 150 gallon tank and at 2 to 3 bps my drop checker is lime green and my ppm is very high. I think the best way to attack this problem is get a slower flow into the reactor by either splitting your return line with a properly sized wye & tubing or using a separate pump with a flow of approximately 250 gph.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Thats right lower flow works with this reactor Aquariumplants.com should not say works with any size pump for any size tank.

{ CarbonDoser EXT5000 (External Reactor 5000)
For the successfull, efficient introduction of CO2. For aquariums up to 1000 gallons. (or any aquarium with a cannister filter/overflow/remote pump system.

Even though this Reactor is adequate for aquariums up to 1000 gallons, we still highly recommend it for ALL aquarium (with an external filter or pump system) no matter what the size...

All other "inline" reactors rely completely on the flow from the filter...if the flow is not the correct speed, the reactor will not be efficient. This does NOT rely on the filter pump volume, instead includes an internal pump which creates high turbulance of the water & CO2 within the reactor, thereby creating 100% dissolution of the CO2. The design ensures that CO2 can NOT leave the reactor until 100% disolved in the water
We invented and patented this reactor, you will not find a more efficient reactor anywhere 
(please indicate Inside Diameter of hose needed. 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, or 1 inch.)

Includes everything you need for installation.
test test }

Then to tell you they can't help but if you fig it out Pleas let them now to fix it!!


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## Kyrol (Feb 24, 2012)

I just bought one of these from a different site with shipping it's about 14 dollars cheaper still waiting for it to come in the mail tho.

http://www.discountfilterstore.com/


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

150EH said:


> I've had no problems at all with the EXT5000 being powered by a 2217 canister on a 150 gallon tank and at 2 to 3 bps my drop checker is lime green and my ppm is very high. I think the best way to attack this problem is get a slower flow into the reactor by either splitting your return line with a properly sized wye & tubing or using a separate pump with a flow of approximately 250 gph.


 
My problem is now, I do have the return from the pump split, one going into a T to the main return line, the other going into the reactor, also have a ball valve on it to control the follow.

Here are the problems I am having

After running for several hours, my drop checker does not change color, unless I really turn up the bps until I cannot count them.

After several hours the reactor will only be about half full of water and then I hear trickle sound of water, not sure why this is.

I see large CO2 bubble in the tank.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> My problem is now, I do have the return from the pump split, one going into a T to the main return line, the other going into the reactor, also have a ball valve on it to control the follow.
> 
> Here are the problems I am having
> 
> ...


I think IMO: That the ball valve should had been place on the main return to control the flow on the reactor side.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> I think IMO: That the ball valve should had been place on the main return to control the flow on the reactor side.


I have ball valve on the main line out of the pump before the T then I have ball valve after the T one on the side of the reactor and one dor main return side. Do you think I need another? 

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

If the reactor is only half filled with water you are pushing too much CO2 into the reactor and displacing the water, I would try turning the CO2 down. I use a 10 oz Canada Dry club soda bottle as a bubble counter so I can count and it is very hard to count 3 bps because it is so fast, my only suggestion is a video camera.

I turn on my CO2 at 9:30 am but the lights come on at 11 am, so I build CO2 for an hour an a half prior to lights on, the CO2 turns off at lights out. If I use this method with a build up prior to lights on I never have a problem but if I try 30 minutes prior to lights on I can't get enough CO2 in the tank all day, I only make small adjustments to my bps once daily if I want more gas and watch the drop checker. I also use a Dupla style DC I got here from Mordalphus and I also use his solutions, 4 dkH, etc., I tried a nano glass DC and it never responded to changes and the 4 dkH solution may have been the answer to that so I'm not exactly sure.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Got the new canister. Its too big. This thing is a monster! What 
Im going to do is turn it into a reactor, then sell my ext5000. This housing
Is a true beast, and i cant see how this wont work...it will take me a week or so
To get everything i need to set it up...ill let you all know how it works


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Deahttub said:


> Got the new canister. Its too big. This thing is a monster! What
> Im going to do is turn it into a reactor, then sell my ext5000. This housing
> Is a true beast, and i cant see how this wont work...it will take me a week or so
> To get everything i need to set it up...ill let you all know how it works


Got Pic's
What kind of filter did you get, Are you going to add the pump?


:icon_lol:


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> Got the new canister. Its too big. This thing is a monster! What
> Im going to do is turn it into a reactor, then sell my ext5000. This housing
> Is a true beast, and i cant see how this wont work...it will take me a week or so
> To get everything i need to set it up...ill let you all know how it works


What all will you have to order to make it work? Since mine sitting at my front door, I will start working on mine when I get home, though if it to difficult, I might just return it.

How would I add the CO2? I assume I will have to get something that connects to the PVC, wont be able have ext5000 type of input for the PVC.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/110100-cerges-reactor-diy-inline-co2-reactor.html


Is actually pretty easy...i should have it up and going on sunday....


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/110100-cerges-reactor-diy-inline-co2-reactor.html
> 
> 
> Is actually pretty easy...i should have it up and going on sunday....


 
Sure does look easy. Keep us updated, do you plan to put yours on the main return line or have it T and have it on it own line?

Thanks


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

It will be a t splitter one to the uv, and a direct line to the tank....


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> What all will you have to order to make it work? Since mine sitting at my front door, I will start working on mine when I get home, though if it to difficult, I might just return it.
> 
> How would I add the CO2? I assume I will have to get something that connects to the PVC, wont be able have ext5000 type of input for the PVC.


I would think you would need a Tee if your not drilling just like #149

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/110100-cerges-reactor-diy-inline-co2-reactor-10.html


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

150EH said:


> If the reactor is only half filled with water you are pushing too much CO2 into the reactor and displacing the water, I would try turning the CO2 down. I use a 10 oz Canada Dry club soda bottle as a bubble counter so I can count and it is very hard to count 3 bps because it is so fast, my only suggestion is a video camera.


 
I lowed the amount of CO2 going into the reactor, and that did fix the problem with the reactor being half full. Now the problem is no matter what I do the drop checker will not change to anything else, always stays blue. My thoughts are I have off gas problem with my overflow? I have 2 inch drop from the tank water into the overflow, not sure how to resolve this as I have durso standpipe setup, helped with it being loud, but not so much for the CO2


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> Got the new canister. Its too big. This thing is a monster! What
> Im going to do is turn it into a reactor, then sell my ext5000. This housing
> Is a true beast, and i cant see how this wont work...it will take me a week or so
> To get everything i need to set it up...ill let you all know how it works


Just got back into town and wow this thing sure is a monster. I plan to buy supplies today to make changes to it. Now to find room for it in my stand.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

The PVC that goes into the housing, would not fit, at least not with standard PVC or CPVC using a Coupler.

I had to get standard PVC, but the kind that has thin wall, not sure what it called, I think it rated at 200 PSI. This fits perfect. That all I had time to work on today. Between unpacking and taking care of 16 month old not a lot of time for the tank today.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Well...i got mine fully functional. So far, i have it higher than i had my cabondoser, and no micro bubbles in the tank whatsoever...i did however, put a sponge at the bottom of the pipe. This thing looks like i can pump way more co2 into the tank than i ever could have with the carbondoser. I go out of town this week so i will only add a little bit till after i get back from out of town. My first impression is, this is way better for a larger tank than the carbon doser....but thats my .02....if your unhappy with your reactor, you wont be disappointed....


Jim...i saw the same thing, what i did was use a dremel to thin it out till it fit...took 2 minutes


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> Well...i got mine fully functional. So far, i have it higher than i had my cabondoser, and no micro bubbles in the tank whatsoever...i did however, put a sponge at the bottom of the pipe. This thing looks like i can pump way more co2 into the tank than i ever could have with the carbondoser. I go out of town this week so i will only add a little bit till after i get back from out of town. My first impression is, this is way better for a larger tank than the carbon doser....but thats my .02....if your unhappy with your reactor, you wont be disappointed....
> 
> 
> Jim...i saw the same thing, what i did was use a dremel to thin it out till it fit...took 2 minutes


Thanks for the info. I hope to have mine up bu end of week. So you have all your flow gling via the reactor and UV or do u also have another return?

Did u use the co2 tube for the co2 as the link you posted?

Thanks

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Jim_PA said:


> Thanks for the info. I hope to have mine up bu end of week. So you have all your flow gling via the reactor and UV or do u also have another return?
> 
> Did u use the co2 tube for the co2 as the link you posted?
> 
> ...



For the moment, i have three returns...i intend on removing one and having just a uv line and a direct line from the reactor..I built my reactor like the link, so yeh i just used my co2 tubng...i intend on increasing the co2 to get it as high as possible w/o gassing my fish...i have good surface aggitation so hopefully ill be ok...


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> Just got back into town and wow this thing sure is a monster. I plan to buy supplies today to make changes to it. Now to find room for it in my stand.


So it will not just go on the ext5000?
Can you guys post pic's of your work!
So all you have is pvc in the center and a sponge before it goes out?
Did you both get the same filter ?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


WoW!! That is nice! it must make the ext5000 look small. Is the web page you posted in the beginning where you order it from Jim?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Craigthor said:


> This cannister should fit the CarbonDoser setup, http://www.waterfilters.net/20-3G-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html#tablist, I plan on tryign them out soon.
> 
> Craig


 
This is the one I purchased that Craig posted about. It very cool, and does make the other one look really small. Now I just have to find time to get it setup. Things like work keep getting in the way


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> For the moment, i have three returns...i intend on removing one and having just a uv line and a direct line from the reactor..I built my reactor like the link, so yeh i just used my co2 tubng...i intend on increasing the co2 to get it as high as possible w/o gassing my fish...i have good surface aggitation so hopefully ill be ok...


 
I still think I am going to go with a T from the return pump one to the main return lines, and one to the reactor which will tie into the main return line with another T. My return lines are 1 inch. The line out my pump goes from 3/4 to 1 inch. I just worry about going from 1 inch line into the 3/4 reactor, then back to one inch again. I really hate to put all my eggs in one basket I think is the saying. What if the reactor ever clogged, at least then my main return line would keep going. I travel 3 days most weeks, think I would feel better setting up this way. If anyone thinks I am being to worried let me know as it would be much easer to only have one return line. As it is I am going to have to move ton of plumbing under my stand just to get this monster to fit.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

Mother of God that thing is huge.... I may have to get one of those to... Wish there was a place you could just buy longer containers

Ugh... Anyone have one used? the wife may beat me if I spend another 50 bucks on the tank haha

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

NWA-Planted said:


> Mother of God that thing is huge.... I may have to get one of those to... Wish there was a place you could just buy longer containers
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


 
I know that would have been to easy if I could have just moved the top of the ext5000 over to it. I am still trying to figure out where I am going to put it in my stand. I have to make some changes with the layoutfor it to fit. Ugh, not looking forward to that.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

Jim_PA said:


> I know that would have been to easy if I could have just moved the top of the ext5000 over to it. I am still trying to figure out where I am going to put it in my stand. I have to make some changes with the layoutfor it to fit. Ugh, not looking forward to that.


Due to my setup I was able to just put it behind the stand.. with your plumbing though, your going to have to get creative! 

If it doesn't end up working out let me know lol. I am actually debating about maybe running two of reactors in line just would give the same effect

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

NWA-Planted said:


> Due to my setup I was able to just put it behind the stand.. with your plumbing though, your going to have to get creative!
> 
> If it doesn't end up working out let me know lol. I am actually debating about maybe running two of reactors in line just would give the same effect
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


I wounder if you would get more head lost running 2 filters inline , are you running it inline with a filter or a pump?


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> I wounder if you would get more head lost running 2 filters inline , are you running it inline with a filter or a pump?


The pump on my Sump is rated at a 28ft head lift. so not to worried there. i am thinking run one reactor nearer the pump with the co2 and a second one with no co2 just for extra diffusion * shrug* probably no more loss then doubling the canister length

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

NWA-Planted said:


> The pump on my Sump is rated at a 28ft head lift. so not to worried there. i am thinking run one reactor nearer the pump with the co2 and a second one with no co2 just for extra diffusion * shrug* probably no more loss then doubling the canister length
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


IMO: I think that a sponge should still be place at the bottom of the pvc 
on the second filter.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Well here is a pic all plumbed up...the pic doesnt truly show size, as this is a 125 gallon tank...











So far ive been able to pump way more co2 into this unit than my carbondoser...im not bashing the carbon doser, quite contrary, i think its a great unit, just a tad small for my 125...i have the co2 cranked and no bubbles are escaping....ive been slowly upping the co2 every day, so ill keep yas posted...


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

very nice. Yeah picture does not do the size justice. It a monster. How do you have it secured or just sitting in stand.

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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Did you switch if yet to be your main return

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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

It wedges perfectly into the stand....Yes...i actually have 3 returns, but two of the three have low flow...


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

So the new reactor is on high flow? Are you using 1 inch or 3/4 I know reactor is 3/4 connection

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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Deahttub said:


> Well here is a pic all plumbed up...the pic doesnt truly show size, as this is a 125 gallon tank...
> 
> 
> 
> ...


WoW!! Nice pic! does the pvc goes all the way down ? What kind of sponge did you use. Yes keep us posted on your co2 setting, I would like to see how much co2 you can get in there. Thanks


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Jim_PA said:


> So the new reactor is on high flow? Are you using 1 inch or 3/4 I know reactor is 3/4 connection
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


I used 1" tubing cause its what i had on my fx5, but i reduced it to 3/4...
Its on full flow, and i keep increasing the co2 everyday...


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

I think I am going to keep mine on 3/4 on it own line, well on T off the main pump and then T back in to the main line as well. This way if I want to do maint on te Reactor, I can just bypass it and not have to shut down the rest of my tank. Thoughts?


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Sounds good to me....


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

http://www.customaquatic.com/estore/control/product/~product=PF-CAY100-0

IMO: " Y " would be best to use. lest friction than a " T "


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

I searched all over town today for those Y's I could not find any.  I assume if I order my tank would be OK not running until Tuesday? Right now I have 2 power heads, heater in the tank, so keeping it warm and lots of flow. My light still on, but not CO2.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> I searched all over town today for those Y's I could not find any.  I assume if I order my tank would be OK not running until Tuesday? Right now I have 2 power heads, heater in the tank, so keeping it warm and lots of flow. My light still on, but not CO2.
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk


Jim , ever thought of in-line heater module with a controller . We have a Tractor Supply Store that carry's some nylon "Y" and other part's .

http://www.jehmco.com/html/heaters.html#Heater Module


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

I have 2 of these heaters, not inline though, they are both in my sump, and work good, very happy with them. I do have inline Hydro, 300W, but don't use that anymore. The link you sent is not inline heater.

http://www.aquacave.com/Finnex-300W-Heater-with-Digital-Controller-P1847C132.aspx

I called 2 Tractor Supply stores here in my area, they don't stock those Y's, so I ordered them next day from AquaCave. Should have them Tuesday and everything back up and running.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> I have 2 of these heaters, not inline though, they are both in my sump, and work good, very happy with them. I do have inline Hydro, 300W, but don't use that anymore. The link you sent is not inline heater.
> 
> http://www.aquacave.com/Finnex-300W-Heater-with-Digital-Controller-P1847C132.aspx
> 
> I called 2 Tractor Supply stores here in my area, they don't stock those Y's, so I ordered them next day from AquaCave. Should have them Tuesday and everything back up and running.


Heater modules: are use for inline with a Titanium Heater w/ ETCI Controller {Custom fitted for our Titanium heaters with bushing and centering collar or standard for Ebo-Jager glass heaters. heaters up to 12” or 22" length (3/4” and 1” dai heaters}


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

So how are your new reactors working out with the high flow rate ? Are you getting any fine mist in your tanks? Are the Drop Checkers able to turn green in colors.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Was just looking at some filters and came across 
Medium Duty 
Heavy Duty Filter Housing 
Does it make a difference witch one we use for our co2 ?
Do you leave the Pressure release button on or tap out for a 1/8" hose barb ?
Are all O-Ring made with Buna-N

http://h2odistributors.com/water-filter-housings.asp
http://h2odistributors.com/yt-20cb-6pr.asp


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Still upping the co2...no mist, tank looks great...this thing is working great!


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Mine up and running, but I seem to have problems with ton of bubbles in it, I don't have CO2 on yet. I re-did all my plumbing to Herbie style, which I love by the way, have to keep checking if the tank on. Tank only been back online for 20 mins, maybe these bubbles are normal until it clears out? Not sure what to think yet.

I took the Pressure release button out, was simple to setup really, biggest problem I had was making the thing fit under my sump. That gave me such a fit. After messing around with it I switched all my plumbing over to spaflex and it fits perfect now.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Deahttub said:


> Still upping the co2...no mist, tank looks great...this thing is working great!


Do you have the 2262 filter? How big is your tank? {I forgot}


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> Mine up and running, but I seem to have problems with ton of bubbles in it, I don't have CO2 on yet. I re-did all my plumbing to Herbie style, which I love by the way, have to keep checking if the tank on. Tank only been back online for 20 mins, maybe these bubbles are normal until it clears out? Not sure what to think yet.
> 
> I took the Pressure release button out, was simple to setup really, biggest problem I had was making the thing fit under my sump. That gave me such a fit. After messing around with it I switched all my plumbing over to spaflex and it fits perfect now.


Do you have bubbles in your sump?


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Do you have the 2262 filter? How big is your tank? {I forgot}


Ive got it on an Fx5...i have a125...


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Do you have bubbles in your sump?


No, still lot air in my lines though, as I just re did all the plumbing. I will have to look at it tonight when I get home. I love this new way I did everything it amazing not a sound from the tank.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> Still upping the co2...no mist, tank looks great...this thing is working great!


 
When you turn your CO2 on, do you see lot bubles in your new reactor? Do they stay at the top of the reactor or do you see them at the bottom? I only see them at the top of the reactor, don't really see any in the tank itself.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> No, still lot air in my lines though, as I just re did all the plumbing. I will have to look at it tonight when I get home. I love this new way I did everything it amazing not a sound from the tank.


Was thinking about the use of the Herbie style set-up for a bigger tank , Did you use a sump or wet-dry for all 3 lines to go into it. Did you make a diy skimmer for the Herbie style pipes ?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Deahttub said:


> Ive got it on an Fx5...i have a125...


That's about 610gph pump, I hope I get the same co2 performance with the 2262 900gph pump.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Well I am just not having much luck with the new reactor. Tons of bubbles of CO2 i the tank. I have to have the CO2 really cranked up to get the drop checkers to change to green. Would this have to do with my sump? It not covered, maybe I need to pickup some plex glass for the top of it. ugh.


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Jim_PA said:


> Well I am just not having much luck with the new reactor. Tons of bubbles of CO2 i the tank. I have to have the CO2 really cranked up to get the drop checkers to change to green. Would this have to do with my sump? It not covered, maybe I need to pickup some plex glass for the top of it. ugh.



So you have a wed/dry sump? If its not sealed, it will definitley off gas...i put a sponge at the bottom of my uptake tube so the micro bubbles dont go into the tank...maybe try that....


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

When using a sump or wet-dry it does need to be sealed like Deathtub said. 
And the Herbie style draining into a sump would cause a lot of turbulence when it inters the sump causing the off gassing.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Deahttub said:


> So you have a wed/dry sump? If its not sealed, it will definitley off gas...i put a sponge at the bottom of my uptake tube so the micro bubbles dont go into the tank...maybe try that....


 
I put a sponge in as well. Lots of bubbles in the tank since I had to crank the CO2 up so high. My drop checkers are now green.

I have sump, not wet/dry


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> When using a sump or wet-dry it does need to be sealed like Deathtub said.
> And the Herbie style draining into a sump would cause a lot of turbulence when it inters the sump causing the off gassing.


 
How sealed? I have bunch of acrylic that I forgot about was going to use that, would that be enough.

Not sure about the Herbie style draining, I have no turbulence in my sump or the tank.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I would cut acrylic to hang over just a bit and maybe put a small weatherstrip 
{some thing soft } and place the acrylic over it with a little weight to seal it.
Or just use saran wrap with duct tape should do the trick also.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Deahttub said:


> Still upping the co2...no mist, tank looks great...this thing is working great!


How's it still holding out for you ? got any pic?


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## Deahttub (Apr 17, 2011)

Everything is still great....been slowly upping the co2, and im just about max...i do get some micro bubbles, but thats at the end of the night...i feel its an upgrade to my carbondoser thats for sure


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

It been suggested by several other members that I should have my CO2 return not in the return into the tank, but rather just have it to where the pump is in my sump. What everyone thoughts on this? I have been seeing flow loss going via the reactor. Also I think Deahttub, you have foam in the bottom of yours? I had to remove mine as it would get to the point it would clog, have you had this problem? If not how do you avoid it?

Thanks


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Never saw it done that way but it might work say you have a pump inside the sump and the reactor outside the sump and return back as close to the other return pump back to the tank? You would need to seal that area off real good also with all that flow.

p.s I forgot if you had 2 pumps in your sump or not?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Never saw it done that way but it might work say you have a pump inside the sump and the reactor outside the sump and return back as close to the other return pump back to the tank? You would need to seal that area off real good also with all that flow.
> 
> p.s I forgot if you had 2 pumps in your sump or not?


I have 2 pumps, the main one is MAG18. The smaller one is a Maxi Jet or whatever is called 900 for my UV


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> I have 2 pumps, the main one is MAG18. The smaller one is a Maxi Jet or whatever is called 900 for my UV


The maxi jet might not handle the pressure with the reactor and uv in line, May be a Mag 5-7 . Your filter might not be doing a good cleaning if your reactor is clogging quickly , You might want to add some fine foams like :
http://www.swisstropicals.com/Poret Filter Foam.html to you sump.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Oh the reactor is on the line with the MAG18, only the UV is on the maxi jet.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Is there a difference of Medium Duty or Heavy Duty , Beside a price difference in filters I do thing the HD is a Fast Flow filter with a 20" x 4.5" size. 
I'm planning on getting it with a 1 inch in/out. Would it be safe to leave the pressure release valve on the filter {will it leak}.

Jim Pa I'm surprise you would see some flow lost with a Mag 18 .


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Is there a difference of Medium Duty or Heavy Duty , Beside a price difference in filters I do thing the HD is a Fast Flow filter with a 20" x 4.5" size.
> I'm planning on getting it with a 1 inch in/out. Would it be safe to leave the pressure release valve on the filter {will it leak}.
> 
> Jim Pa I'm surprise you would see some flow lost with a Mag 18 .


 
I think the flow loss problem, is because of the way I had my setup. I spent most of the weekend setting up a new 38 gallon sump, and re-plumbed my entire setup. I was using 3/4 off the Mag 18, it suggested in user manaul to use 1.5. So I did just that. I have it going from 1.5 which is then setup with a WYE, that goes from 1.5 and splits into 2 1 inch, that one goes back into the tank for the primary return and the second goes to the CO2 reactor, which then goes back into the sump right by the return pump.

I don't think that going to work though, think now that I am using large size PVC, I am going to change it back to go from 1.5 to 1 direct to the CO2 reactor then back to the return into the tank. The way I had it before, but now with the large pipe, also removed most of the 90's, T's, barb's I was using before. Flow much better now.

Main problem is now, I cannot get my drop checkers to turn green. So I don't think I have any other option than to change it again.

Ugh.....:help:


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## Lurch98 (Oct 7, 2011)

Jim_PA said:


> I think the flow loss problem, is because of the way I had my setup. I spent most of the weekend setting up a new 38 gallon sump, and re-plumbed my entire setup. I was using 3/4 off the Mag 18, it suggested in user manaul to use 1.5. So I did just that. I have it going from 1.5 which is then setup with a WYE, that goes from 1.5 and splits into 2 1 inch, that one goes back into the tank for the primary return and the second goes to the CO2 reactor, which then goes back into the sump right by the return pump.
> 
> I don't think that going to work though, think now that I am using large size PVC, I am going to change it back to go from 1.5 to 1 direct to the CO2 reactor then back to the return into the tank. The way I had it before, but now with the large pipe, also removed most of the 90's, T's, barb's I was using before. Flow much better now.
> 
> ...


Uhm, if you were taking half of your output and looping it back, I would suspect you were cutting your flow in half? Could you just take the second loop going through the reactor and return that to the tank also?

I suspect having the entire flow go through the reactor is pushing the water through too fast to disolve a lot of the CO2, but if you only direct half of it through as you had, then carry it into the tank instead of looping it back to the sump, you might look a lot better?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim I thought you had 2 returns to the tank after the pump?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

No, 1.5 inch from pump is split to 1 inch. one going to tank one to reactor. One going to tank then has 2 returns in the tank. Going to switch all returns to go to reactor then to tank. Co2 loss is to high going back to sump. I think with larger line ig shkuld be ok

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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim on the Danner web page it list all there Mag 2-7 with 1/2" in/out 
and the Mag 9-18 with 3/4" in/out 

Mag 18 
MODEL MD 18 - UPC 02718
Maximum Flow Rate: 1800 GPH
Watts: 150
GPH at 0': 1500
GPH at 1': 1325
GPH at 3': 1200
GPH at 5': 1100
GPH at 7': 1050
GPH at 10': 875
GPH at 15': 575
Shutoff: 16.85'

With your plumping your looking at 5'-7' at the most I would stick with a 1" hose line.

http://www.dannermfg.com/Store/Products/Danner/PID-02718.aspx


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks for the info, but if you look at the instructions page, on page 2, look what it says about using 1.5 hose?

http://www.dannermfg.com/Store/images/instructions/ZG100.pdf


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

I also ordered a new filter thing for reactor, I ordered the one inch one.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I would like to buy a Heyco Liquid Tight Cord grip like the one use in ex5000 reactor 
Where could I order some and what type?
The one that's in my reactor is metal not plastic.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> I would like to buy a Heyco Liquid Tight Cord grip like the one use in ex5000 reactor
> Where could I order some and what type?
> The one that's in my reactor is metal not plastic.


 
You posted a link for them a few pages back. 

http://www.heyco.com/Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips/


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Jim_PA said:


> You posted a link for them a few pages back.
> 
> http://www.heyco.com/Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips/


I don't know what type or size to get there are so many ?
Only if some one knew witch PART NO. is being used on the ex5000 reactor would be better, There is PG Hubs, Metric Hubs and NPT Hubs, Then there's flexible cord diameters.
IMO: I do believe the NPT Hubs would be the one we use an with a Thread Size of npt 1/4" ? 

http://www.heyco.com/Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips/product.cfm?product=Brass-Cordgrips-NPT&section=Liquid_Tight_Cordgrips


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

How is every one's new reactors working so far {it's been a couple of months since I posted}
I have finely order my Big Blue 20" with 1" in-put and out . A question I have for any one that has this filter is what size pvc is used for the center for the out-put?
And did you leave the pressure release button in place? {I thought of tapping it for my co2}.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> How is every one's new reactors working so far {it's been a couple of months since I posted}
> I have finely order my Big Blue 20" with 1" in-put and out . A question I have for any one that has this filter is what size pvc is used for the center for the out-put?
> And did you leave the pressure release button in place? {I thought of tapping it for my co2}.


I switched mine out to a 20" with 1" in-put and out as well. Much better flow for for my system. I did remove the pressure release button and used it for my CO2. I made it difficult to get the tube in for the CO2, as it should be, no leaks, but I did put silicone on inside and outside just for added protection.

I am using 1 inch PVC for the center, but had to take some of the PVC down using dremel as it would not fit otherwise.

This is the one I got, it a monster
http://www.waterfilters.net/Big-Clear-Whole-House-Filter-Housing.html


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

http://h2odistributors.com/ytb-20-cb1-pr.asp
It seems to be the same as the one I ordered . I also might just use a Aqua Medic 5/8" Tee that has a hose barb for my co2 and keep the pressure release button. 
Jim did you glue that 1" pvc or just snug fit .


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Looks like same one, but looks like you paid a lot less. 

Just very snug fit, no glue

Yeah that tee might not be a bad idea.

I knew it was going t be big, but was kinda shocked when I got it. Do you plan to put anything inside of the housing? I had some real small bio balls sitting around I put those in mine. To be honest not sure why. I seen few others like that. Mostly I don't want to have to move the housing very often as it a monster.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I have some extra stuff laying around that I might use , Like a 3" suction screen and add a coupler to the pvc with a thread on one end and maybe a small sponge just before the intake and I do have a lot of those tiny bio balls also I might throw those in there. 
Jim does your co2 still escape or does it get use up in the reactor with the bio balls in there ?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will got my new filter and WoW!! What a Monster!! I'm going to use a 1" pvc with a 3"
suction screen for the out put , It's going to take a few days to fig. out to how I'm going to mount it in my cabinet or just stand it up with bungee cords. will post pic later.

Jim how are the bio-balls working out for you.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

inkslinger said:


> Will got my new filter and WoW!! What a Monster!! I'm going to use a 1" pvc with a 3"
> suction screen for the out put , It's going to take a few days to fig. out to how I'm going to mount it in my cabinet or just stand it up with bungee cords. will post pic later.
> 
> Jim how are the bio-balls working out for you.


Not really had any problems with the BioBalls, not sure how much they help or not. Wondering if I should have put more in. I do still get CO2 into the tank sometimes, the bubbles that is.

Yeah the new filter is a monster. I moved my sump around for it to fit. I have it on the far right in my stand, and use that plastic flex holders to keep it from moving. Not sure the name, but it comes in a roll with about 25 feet long.

What is this suction screen you are going to use?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

It's a 3" inland seas suction screen I cut the end off with my Drimal to fit over the bottom lip of the canister . {pic shows my 6" inland seas suction screen} 



Jim_PA said:


> Not really had any problems with the BioBalls, not sure how much they help or not. Wondering if I should have put more in. I do still get CO2 into the tank sometimes, the bubbles that is.
> 
> Yeah the new filter is a monster. I moved my sump around for it to fit. I have it on the far right in my stand, and use that plastic flex holders to keep it from moving. Not sure the name, but it comes in a roll with about 25 feet long.
> 
> What is this suction screen you are going to use?


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks for the info. Where did you put the screen?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I cut a 1" pvc pipe to 16.25" added a 1" coupling and screw on the suction screen . I cut the end off so it will fit over the center ring of the filter, that's on the bottom of the filter canister. I sanded the other end to fit snug to the top of the filter.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Thanks for the info. I added bunch more bio - balls to my reactor this weekend, and it really helped. I now have the reactor about half full of bio - balls.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Just for the heck of it I'm painting my center pvc with black paint. I'm still looking for my bag of mini bio balls . I'm able to push my bio ball's threw the 1" port with the head cap on the canister before I hook it up on line.




Jim_PA said:


> Thanks for the info. I added bunch more bio - balls to my reactor this weekend, and it really helped. I now have the reactor about half full of bio - balls.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will I found my bag of bio balls and I filled my container to see how much I will need. 
Maybe this weekend I will take pic's before placing it on line, The filter is so big that 
I don't have room to use the mounting plate that came with it , got to use some bungee
cords or some thing to hold it up. My stand is like 30"-36" inside.

I'm not too much in a hurry , I'm going to break down my tank around the end of Aug. to move into our new house , But I got to know if this project really work out with a high flow pump of 900gph . I think it will slow the flow just a tad with the bio balls but I hope I get 100% of my co2 defuse with a high bubble count!


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Wondering how you guys are liking this big reactor?


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

I still haven set it up yet ! I got it all put to together , I've got the 1" ports and used
reducers to 5/8" Eheim hose . I like the size it's B I G!! I have a 36" high stand and I 
can't mount it underneath . I'm going to use bungee cords or straps to secure it . The 
Eheim 2262 filter will hold it up some the house filter sits just a tad higher from the pump.
The inside is like 5 1/2" round .


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will I finely set up my filter and only took 10min to replace the ext 5000 reactor that I had in the first place , with my Eheim 2262 filter pumping at 900gph it is so quite and my co2 at 3bps I drop from 8.7 to 7.3 in 2hr for a 110g tank. Well post pic's soon of my new set-up.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will I finely finish my reactor , I got too say this works great with my Eheim 2262 filter. I have a 3in x 1in suction screen on a 1in pvc then I added bio mini balls and fill it to the rim, It dissolves all my co2 and am able to run my bubble count way less than when I had the ext 5000 reactor , no bubbles being blown into my 110g tank and it's so quit. 
The pic shows how big the reactor is to the ext 5000 and I use a 5/8in tee from aqua medic for my co2 and with the bleed valve on the filter makes filling with water a breeze so far a 10lb co2 tank last me 6 months with the ext 5000 reactor, I hope with this new set-up I can get at least another 2 months


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will with this hot weather I'm thinking of removing my elbow with heater an go straight out to the tank, The tempt in the tank stays about 2* below room temp all the time. So far the system is working great , I get 100% diffusion in my 110g tank , just got to add some
little flow with power head.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Will so far this set-up has been great at dissolving all my co2 100% and I am running less co2 at this time and it's keeping my Drop Checkers on both end of the 60x18x24 inch tank green every day. I'll say this is the best set-up I ever had.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

Glad to hear it working well for you. Mine been working great as well. It needs a good cleaning though. I am thinking about doing that this weekend, not really looking forward to moving that monster from under my stand.


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## isellcars (Mar 4, 2012)

Jim_PA do you just have one return going back into your tank from your sump? Mine is like that and I have a 900gph pump and for some reason can't get the co2 to dissolve in the water at all. I have a 20" Rex Griggs reactor and not sure if its to much water pressure. 
I'm asking you cause you seem to be the only other one in here that has a planted tank with a sump.


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## Jim_PA (Aug 26, 2011)

isellcars said:


> Jim_PA do you just have one return going back into your tank from your sump? Mine is like that and I have a 900gph pump and for some reason can't get the co2 to dissolve in the water at all. I have a 20" Rex Griggs reactor and not sure if its to much water pressure.
> I'm asking you cause you seem to be the only other one in here that has a planted tank with a sump.


Hi isellcars,
I have dual overflow on my tank, so I have 2 returns, one in each corner. 

As for my plumbing; from the return pump in the sump, it goes to my reactor, from the reactor it goes into a Y, that then goes to each return. I am running MAG 18 (1800 GPH). I am using flex PVC for all my plumbing, also not using any 90's. All my plumbing is 1 inch. I don't have the MAG18 turned down at all so I am getting fair amount of turnover, also have my UV split from the MAG18, but that has a gatevalve to control flow. Assume you have PVC running from top to the bottom of your reactor? Inside of it?

As to help off gas of CO2, I have my sump covered with plexi glass, as for my overflows, I am running durso standpipe on each, and have some poret foam to help with the splash.

When you say it won't dissolve, do you mean your seeing the tiny & large bubbles in your tank, or that your drop checker won't turn green?

I had a problem with both at first, I filled my reactor up with a bunch of bio-balls real small ones, maybe half full with no water in it, and that helped with seeing large and most of the small bubbles in the tank.

If your drop checker won't turn green color, I had a lot of problems with that as well. It took a lot of adjustments to CO2, to get right balance. I cannot count the bubbles in my bubble counter. I have given up with that, and just adjust it to my drop checker is the right color.

Sorry this is so long, way more info than you wanted I am sure, but I figured I would give you full details of the setup.


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## isellcars (Mar 4, 2012)

My reactor is basically a 2" PVC pipe that has water going in on top and out on the bottom. My co2 goes into the pipe about 3" from the top. I was told this is the best way to breakup and dissolve the co2 into the water. Instead I get really big bubbles entering my tank. 
I just have the single return in the middle of the tank and wasn't sure if I just had to much water pressure. I gave up on the bubble counter weeks ago since it is just a constant stream. But the DC barely ever changes color....more so a blue/green color. 
Really starting to drive me crazy. I thought the sump set up with a filter sock would be the best way to go but not sure so far.


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

How much water is going through your reactor? My 12"x2" reactor could handle 200gph and the 20" cerges can handle somewhat less than 500gph without too many bubbles escaping. Perhaps you could split the return to reduce the load on the reactor?


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## mcaquatic (Apr 26, 2010)

inkslinger said:


> Will I finely finish my reactor , I got too say this works great with my Eheim 2262 filter. I have a 3in x 1in suction screen on a 1in pvc then I added bio mini balls and fill it to the rim, It dissolves all my co2 and am able to run my bubble count way less than when I had the ext 5000 reactor , no bubbles being blown into my 110g tank and it's so quit.
> The pic shows how big the reactor is to the ext 5000 and I use a 5/8in tee from aqua medic for my co2 and with the bleed valve on the filter makes filling with water a breeze so far a 10lb co2 tank last me 6 months with the ext 5000 reactor, I hope with this new set-up I can get at least another 2 months



thinking about trying to make one. What is the bleed valve you used? I want to look a little more into this.


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## isellcars (Mar 4, 2012)

Kathyy said:


> How much water is going through your reactor? My 12"x2" reactor could handle 200gph and the 20" cerges can handle somewhat less than 500gph without too many bubbles escaping. Perhaps you could split the return to reduce the load on the reactor?


I have between 800-900 gph. I am going to try your idea and do the split on the return and see how that works. I will also put a valve on the side that is not going to reactor and play with that. 
I have to first get more co2 since my 5# tank only lasted 7 weeks.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

mcaquatic said:


> thinking about trying to make one. What is the bleed valve you used? I want to look a little more into this.


 The Bleed Valve is the button that is on top of the House filter, some people 
will remove this and use it as there point of co2 input, I left my intact it makes filling the reactor up fast when my filter is full of water and the return is under water. 
Jim got a pic of your sump set-up, was thinking of similar set-up for a big 180g tank. Will be breaking down my tank by the end of this month for our big move to our new house.


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## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Kathyy said:


> How much water is going through your reactor? My 12"x2" reactor could handle 200gph and the 20" cerges can handle somewhat less than 500gph without too many bubbles escaping. Perhaps you could split the return to reduce the load on the reactor?


 My first 12"x2" reactor I had a mag 5 500gph pump in a close loop with uv light and heater , I could have push a mag 7 IMO, and the 20" cerges I have my Eheim 2262 filter pushing 900gph {it might be less gph with the media in the filter} I would like to see if it works with my Nu-Clear 533 an 547 filter with a Blue Line 55HD 1100gph pressure pump that I have laying around.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

The pressure at the meter valve is irrelevant as long as it can handle the 1-10 bps we usually use in these reactors. I run 10 PSI on mine. Sounds like this guy is blowing smoke up your you-know-what with running 1000 gallon tanks on one, IMO. 

The trick is to get the longest water dwell in the reactor without collecting excess CO2 in the top of the chamber, making noise and wasting CO2. This can be achieved with a ball valve on the output to choke back flow or a bypass if you run inline with your canister. I have played with the idea of making an accordion style box with baffles that require the water to change direction several times during it's route assuring that the gas has time and ample surface area to mix.


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