# Opinions Wanted on T5



## BOTIA (Dec 23, 2003)

*re ballasts*

Well I am using some T5 HO's over my 70. I am using a workhorse 7 to run 2 T5
54 watt tubes. I also have a T5 HO running of a standard advance 2 x32w T8 ballast ( the outputs are conected to provide 64 watts)
Both wh 7 and the advance ballasts are work great. Btw WH ballasts are not always NO they just don't label them as HO. The WH 7 will properly drive 4 54 watt T5 's just a little over spec. 
IMHO the WH does a great job and they are cheap.
Botia


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## eums (Sep 16, 2004)

i am using triad ballasts currently. i like them alot because they are narrow and thin(less than a inch square) but maybe 14" long vs other ballasts that are like bricks

The ice cab ballasts need to be sent back to factory to be tuned to run T5's.

The WH7 i am not sure about. it can run the bulbs but they are not running in spec...


i stuck with the triad ballasts because its what sun light supply uses in there fixtures and its what i have seen in industrall fixtures. there a little more expensive but they run the bulb in spec. 

All of those will work, the WH and ice cap will probly pull more power because there not ment to run the t5's vs the triad ballasts. but if price is the issue go with the WH7. the ice cap ($150 ) is just way over priced ..... the triad ballasts are the middle ground and are spec ballasts. 

good luck picking one.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Workhorse 7 for $35 to drive four 54W T5's --> hard to beat. If you use good reflectors, IMO there is no other lighting solution that comes even close to the light output per watt and dollar.

Not sure how the different brands of ballasts compare in operating cost, I think it would be difficult to find any "hard data"...


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## BOTIA (Dec 23, 2003)

*re workhorse*

I'm lovin it..
Anyhow according to fulhams website the wh7 is spec'd to run T5 HO no problems. 
Mine's working like a hot damn with my rotala indica is turning dark red with all the light


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

I'm itching to start. T5 here I come....


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Thanks again, all for the opinions on T5! 

I just placed an order with Reefgeeks, will try my hand at 2x39W system. Going with the good reflectors, as suggested, a Triad ballast, and for $11.95 apiece I'm gonna get the 6500K tubes there, too. I tried some of the local electrical supply places and they just don't have 'em.


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## eums (Sep 16, 2004)

post back once you get them up and running !


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

*Santa Claus Arrives Early for KSand!*



eums said:


> post back once you get them up and running !


Not up and running yet, but...

My ReefGeek order arrived today. This is for high-output T5, two tubes at 39W each. I have three 36" tanks, so that's why I'm going with this length. The idea is to build this unit and if it works out, order another one.










I didn't think I needed the "stand-offs" for the endcaps, but it looks like I need them, so I placed an order today. Also, I have to go scrounge up an enclosure and go buy some #18 wire.

ReefGeek packaged my fluorescent tubes in PVC pipe, a nice touch, looks like a good outfit.


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## Dieni (Nov 18, 2004)

Just a quick question ksand, the 39w tubes your using are 36"?


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Hello, Dieni. These are 36" T5 bulbs. I figured you'd be interested in this project :wink: .

How's the native aquatic plants in Malta?


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## Dieni (Nov 18, 2004)

Native plants hehe, there arent any, we dont have rivers or lakes over here. You know how small Malta is? Have a look here http://www.worldatlas.com/webimage/countrys/europe/mt.htm

Regarding the T5 lighting, Will have to do a search to see what is viable of not, since most probably I would have to get the T5 HO tubes from abroad too.


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## skylsdale (Aug 26, 2003)

Here you go: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=419941&highlight=triad

Personally, I'm going with an IceCap ballast over a reef I'm currently setting up.


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## GDominy (Jul 30, 2002)

Guys I spoke with Fulham about running a workhorse 7 to fire 55 watt CF bulbs and/or 54 watt T5 HO, their standpoint was this:

Only run 3 bulbs.

When bulbs age, right before death they "can" start drawing considerably more power then they do during prime operating conditions (up to 50% more). With 3 bulbs, this allows for some flexibility in the event of this. If you are running 4 bulbs, you are so close to spec that if a bulb overdraws you can fry your ballast, cause it to overheat, etc.

This is a considerable fire safety issue, even if the likelyhood of this happening is pretty slim, its not something that I am willing to risk.

I run 3 bulbs, and thats all I will be.


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## glass-gardens.com (Apr 14, 2004)

Can you mount the ballast remotely and put a heat sink on it I wonder?


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## BOTIA (Dec 23, 2003)

*re heat sink etc*

Yes you can . There are two versions of every fulham ballast 1-8 , the workhorse is for close proximity to bulbs and the longhorse for remote mounting.
I have my workhorse 7 mounted outside on the back of my hood with 1/4 inch standoffs and a multifinned aluminum heatsink clamped to it that I made from aluminum angle stock. The ballast runs much cooler and probably more efficient this way.
T5 bulbs have an extremely long life cycle according to GE's website, That said I also have a 4 inch computer fan keeping the heat down in my hood (and heating my bedroom...)
The 3 bulb rule maybe a good one if you do not replace the bulbs regularly.
I get mine for 9.00 each so I don't mind replacing them when needed. 
Botia


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## Dieni (Nov 18, 2004)

Is there any reason why cant you just extend the cables to put the ballast further away from the tank?


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Dieni said:


> Is there any reason why cant you just extend the cables to put the ballast further away from the tank?


Well, Dieni, I guess there aren't any electrical engineers on this forum, but since Fulham makes two separate models of electronic ballast, one for close mounting and one for remote mounting, I would guess that it is indeed an issue. It might have something to do with the resistance of the wire.

I agree with Botia's strategy, though, of doing whatever you can to facilitate the cooling of the ballast.


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

*Reefgeek Order Arrives!*

The standoffs arrived yesterday and I realized I only ordered one pair. D'Oh!! But that's just as well, because I didn't like the way the standoffs added another 1/2" of height, so...








I decided to just do away with the standoffs, cut the plastic inserts from the base of the endcaps, and drill my own holes and bolt the endcaps right to the enclosure using #6 machine screws.








The enclosure is made from sheet aluminum. It might have been better to go with sheet steel, because the aluminum is kind of flimsy, but it is easy to work with and light as a feather.

Next step is mounting the reflectors and wiring. Stay tuned...


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## ob1 (Oct 21, 2003)

I have just completed my upgrade to 7 X t5 54watt - plant pro tubes

http://www.yoursecurity.co.uk/tankImagesT5 lighting/


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Wow. 378 Watts. I see you've staggered the 4-ft bulbs for what, a 6-ft tank? I did a search on "plant pro t5" and could not find those bulbs. Could you provide some more info on where you got the bulbs, what the color temp is, etc? Also, what kind of endcaps are they and how do they mount. And ballast.. heh heh... I'm not asking for too much am I?


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## ob1 (Oct 21, 2003)

hi ksand

I have a Rena 150 (150X70X50) just less than 5 feet. 

I am based in the UK and I found it impossible to purchase the IP67 end caps and electronic ballast's cheaper then buying them complete. It seems in the UK there is not a great demand for IP67 end caps.

After much investigation and several conversation with arcadia (who have need great in helping me with the project) 

Here’s the link to arcadia-uk and some info on the Plant Pro T5 lamps.

http://www.arcadia-uk.info/news.php?action=view&mid=8&lan=en&id=5

I ended up paying £17 per lamp and £48 per double 54watt ballast, which included IP67 end caps. Reflectors £8. 

I once the reflectors were added there seemed to be less light in the corners of the tank – it seems with reflectors less light is bounced around the hood and reflected across the whole tank, all the light goes straight down. 

The plant pros are great and seem to be doing the job - and they produce a nice colour not yellow - I think they in the 6k range.

The end caps are mounted using 3m double-sided tape, the tape is also waterproof - I am very happy with the tape solution. 

Ps
There is a lot of cable to deal with - used cable trucking to manage the cable runs - this really makes a nice finish to the job –


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## eums (Sep 16, 2004)

I have those exact end caps, but mine have a cap that screw onto them that seals moisture out from the ends.

mine were about $10 a pair. and stand off's were about $4 a pair.


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Thanks for the info, _ob1_. I got the "AAG Stucchi" end caps. They have a "snap-in" bracket. You purchase a separate part called a "stand-off". The endcap snaps right in to the stand-off. I decided not to use the stand-offs, choosing to mount the endcap flush to the aluminum enclosure.

The sheet aluminium cost me $13, the wire about $4. The miscellaneous screws, wire nuts, etc.... I figure the whole thing cost me about $150. Is that a big savings? Probably not, but it is cheaper, and cheaper is gooder  

I followed eums' lead on this. I got the same ballast, same endcaps, in fact, I just ordered everything from one place, ReefGeek.com. (thank you, eums roud: )

Hopefully I'll have time to wire this sucker up this week. I'll post my final pics then. Stay tuned!


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

The Triad ballast is a joy to work with. Wiring is easy. Used #18 solid.








Small pieces of airline tubing serve as grommets:








Aluminum spacers bring the reflectors to the proper height:








It works!








Suspended over tank:








Comparison with 110W PC:








The 110-Watt PC actually draws about 95W. The 78W T5 is about 20% brighter than the PC, but the PC bulbs are 7 months old. The 20% datum was arrived at using a digital camera.

This was a fun project. My only regret is not mounting the endcaps perfectly square. If I were to do it again (and I probably will) I would make sure the endcaps were dead-on square.


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## Dieni (Nov 18, 2004)

Wow very neat work there ksand, well done. When my ballasts finally arrive, I will have to do something similar.


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## ob1 (Oct 21, 2003)

I am most impressed - nice job mate.
nice macro pictures
roud:


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I would like to see the comparison of the bulbs when the T5 set have gone though the burn in and with the same k bulbs.

A brand new PC bulb will appear about 20% brighter also.


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## Betowess (Dec 9, 2004)

Hey, that looks great! Did you mount the ballast on the fixture's top? And are you hanging it with wires or some kind of chain? TIA


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Dieni said:


> ...When my ballasts finally arrive, I will have to do something similar.


 Great, Dieni, keep us apprised of your ODNO project.


ob1 said:


> I am most impressed - nice job mate.
> nice macro pictures


 Your welcome, friend. (tripod!)


Rex Grigg said:


> I would like to see the comparison of the bulbs when the T5 set have gone though the burn in and with the same k bulbs.
> 
> A brand new PC bulb will appear about 20% brighter also.


 Good point! The T5's are 6500K and new and the PC's are 6700K and 5500K and about 7 months old. My comparison is unscientific (do I lust for a good lumen meter? yesss...). Yeah, a 20% margin is too high, I take that back. Thanks for the correction .



Betowess said:


> ...Did you mount the ballast on the fixture's top? And are you hanging it with wires or some kind of chain? TIA


Yeah, the enclosure is just sheet aluminum 1-1/4" deep, and the ballast (a very slim 1") fits inside. I got decorative chain at HD and screwed some hooks into the ceiling. The fixture is so light, I can get away with small hooks and light chain. This fixture is in my "fish room", so I didn't bother with building a luminaire or anything like that. Just light, fast, cheap, get it up and running.


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Rex Grigg said:


> I would like to see the comparison of the bulbs when the T5 set have gone though the burn in and with the same k bulbs.
> 
> A brand new PC bulb will appear about 20% brighter also.


You're confusing visible light with actual light output, and relying on the photograph alone. I measured the output with a pretty good light meter, and the output of the T5 was indeed 20% higher, but I forgot about the burn-in loss, which should be about 2%, so I should have said about 15%, not 20%. No way will a brand new bulb of any kind actually be 20% brighter. Again, don't be fooled by the picture, Rex


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I'm not fooled by the picture. I'm referring to a test that was done by a member of the APD who used a light meter to measure the light loss on a new florescent bulb over time. The bulb did indeed lose something in the neighborhood of 20% of the light over the first few weeks. But the funny thing is it settled down to the RATED wattage. It was burning brighter at first.


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## ksand (Oct 19, 2004)

Rex Grigg said:


> ...I'm referring to a test that was done by a member of the APD who used a light meter to measure the light loss on a new florescent bulb over time. The bulb did indeed lose something in the neighborhood of 20% of the light over the first few weeks. But the funny thing is it settled down to the RATED wattage. It was burning brighter at first.


You should not take the results of a single experiment and generalize.


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