# Best Bio media??Not what you think!



## PhilipS (Jan 9, 2014)

I prefer bio balls. Self cleaning and plenty of surface area to boot.

Used them in nano Iwagumi tanks, large mini-reefs when they came out in the 80's, to pond filters.

Today they are inexpensive.


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

For me better media means lasts a long time, works, cleans easily and doesn't clog fast.

Bioballs last forever but don't do a whole lot, I had GW over and over again. 
Sponge lasts a long time and no more GW. 
Ceramic might have been good, I didn't have GW when I used it but it fell apart in a couple years. 
Dollar store scrubbies were cheap, didn't think they were any better than bioballs and they fell apart in a couple years. 
Floss technically lasts a long time but mats up and clogs fast after a few rinses, same with felt. 

Sponges for the win! I don't know about biobale and other wet dry media and probably won't try them as I am sold on sponges.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

webskipper said:


> I prefer bio balls. Self cleaning and plenty of surface area to boot.
> 
> Today they are inexpensive.


Bio balls are not self cleaning ,and in marine applications are KNOWN as nitrate factories if they are not cleaned. Probably the same in FW?
Do you know if your BB need all the surface area?
If you only have 1 fish wouldn't 1 ball work?
I got an attic with over 30g of bioballs(old{orange wingy things} and blue spiked balls). Never using them again.They will last forever though.
Thanks!

Bump:


Kathyy said:


> For me better media means lasts a long time, works, cleans easily and doesn't clog fast.
> Sponges for the win! I don't know about biobale and other wet dry media and probably won't try them as I am sold on sponges.


I have used biobale ,dls(double layer spiral) and just the spiral part,more affordably found as "cedar breather" by Benjamin Obdyke(roofing product).

The sponge rules to me also as it is so easy to rinse/clean,and can be found for cheap(not talking about pourette$$$).
Thanks!


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## Dolfan (Apr 8, 2005)

I really like Seachem Matrix bio media and here is why I "think" it's the best, of course this is just my opinion.

It has millions of tiny pores, and Seachem claims it to have waaaaay more surface area then other bio-medias. More surface area equals more area for the bacteria to colonize and process the ammonia/nitrite.

The tiny pores are small enough to promote anaerobic bacteria which in theory would reduce nitrates as well, meaning cleaning water, more time in between water changes. 

It also lasts forever, and is very cheap.

Here is a link from Seachem's website that explains some more about Matrix...

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Matrix.html

I can't prove any of this stuff, I didn't measure the surface area, or test the anaerobic conditions created in the tiny micro pores. But I do know that I have used it for many years with great results. As the OP alluded to, it more or less comes down to personal preference and what works for your tank.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

So lets say you have an odd shaped filter and you need to cut the filter sponge to fit it.
Then the people who do sponges...will theyt tell me if this is a good plan.
Water comes in from the top.
A 1" sponge on the bottom that you don't mess/w.
Two 1" sponges on top of that bottom one. These are pre-filter. There are two so nothing gets in your main sponge on the bottom. The top one you would rinse out in tank water that you put in your bucket when you change water.
This would be every week at water change time. Then once a month you take out the top two of the sponges and rinse both in that water change water.
I have used ceramic pieces and they work well and mine are three years old so far.
I have some Matrix also in the other tank and it works well also. It is also three years old and going strong. No complaints on either.
But...it is a very valid point that they do cost much more than a sponge does. When I
looking on a chart that rates bio-media, I find that the bio-balls are at the very bottom of that list while the ceramic and Matrix are at the top of it. But last time I looked sponge was not there. Is this one of those manufacturers deals where they don't want you to know that cheaper is available ?
And what kind of sponge do you use if not Pourette ?


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

Coralbandit said:


> Bio balls are not self cleaning ,and in marine applications are KNOWN as nitrate factories if they are not cleaned. Probably the same in FW?


Our filters are nitrate factories! They are meant to be nitrate factories and if they aren't making nitrate then they aren't doing their job. 

Reef tanks do things differently. Protein skimmers strip out nitrogenous wastes and the product produced is carefully removed so the tanks can run close to zero nitrate. Even if PS worked in fresh water we want the nitrate for the plants.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

Raymond S. said:


> When I
> looking on a chart that rates bio-media, I find that the bio-balls are at the very bottom of that list while the ceramic and Matrix are at the top of it. But last time I looked sponge was not there. Is this one of those manufacturers deals where they don't want you to know that cheaper is available ?
> And what kind of sponge do you use if not Pourette ?


 I would like to see the "chart".
The beauty of sponge IMO is it is mechanical and bio.Nature is complicated,but does not complicate its own process!
You can rinse your sponges in tank water and they will be both mechanical and bio.
I use Aqua clear sponges and some other for reef sumps that are close to the same.
$8 for a 3x3x12 inch piece.Some are bigger(rectangular).
Thanks.

Bump:


Dolfan said:


> I can't prove any of this stuff, I didn't measure the surface area, or test the anaerobic conditions created in the tiny micro pores. But I do know that I have used it for many years with great results. As the OP alluded to, it more or less comes down to personal preference and what works for your tank.


 Nice!
I can't measure either but wonder if seachem says there is SA X100(surface area times 100) and your tank is only using/needs SA X3?
I really can't prove one thing or the other.
I can only speak from 32 years experience(last 10 as the sponge guy!).
Thanks.

Bump:


Kathyy said:


> Our filters are nitrate factories! They are meant to be nitrate factories and if they aren't making nitrate then they aren't doing their job.
> 
> Reef tanks do things differently. Protein skimmers strip out nitrogenous wastes and the product produced is carefully removed so the tanks can run close to zero nitrate. Even if PS worked in fresh water we want the nitrate for the plants.


 Most reefers use some form of carbon dosing to remove nitrates(the skimmer alone is NOT enough{I own a MTC 1000 with ozone).
By nitrate factory I mean producing more then necessary.
I do agree that the reefers are way ahead of FW for nitrate control.
I rarely change water in any of my reefs(using bio plastic as my carbon source in my sumps{which require skimming to remove the associate bacteria.})
Thanks!


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## PhilipS (Jan 9, 2014)

Coralbandit said:


> Bio balls are not self cleaning ,and in marine applications are KNOWN as nitrate factories if they are not cleaned. Probably the same in FW?


Water is water.

My balls stay clean.

Never had an issue in the 180 mini reef. Full tank of coral and base rock. Simple blue/white material for pre-filter. Lamotte test kits.

Plants consume the NO3.

Back to the polls.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

If you are looking for a more compact way to keep the beneficial bacteria in your filter, then it might pay to buy the expensive materials with all the tests that show it works so well. 

But with a planted tank the plants are doing the majority of the nitrogen removal, so bio-media in the filter is a tertiary issue. 

I use mechanical (sponge, floss) and chemical (peat or coral) media, and I feel there is plenty of bacteria living on these materials for a planted tank. No need to add more. 

I am just careful in cleaning the sponges and floss, that I clean them in used tank water, not highly chlorinated tap water. 

Before I had so many plants I was more particular to keep bio media in the filters, (usually the ceramic media that comes with Fluval, Filstar and Aquaclear filters). 
Even then, I knew the sponges held a lot of bacteria, and I jump-started the bio filter in new tanks by sharing all the media, not just the ceramic noodles. 

I prefer the coarser media in higher flow filters (ponds and largest tanks) so I usually start with porett media because it is almost self cleaning. Even there, I am actually treating it like a coarse sponge rather than bio media.


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## Culprit (Nov 6, 2012)

I thought once bacteria hits air it dies.
Is this true ?


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Not at all! 
Nitrifying bacteria, the same species as thrives in our tanks, also lives in garden soil. It is very busy turning animal waste (ammonia) into nitrite and nitrate. 

It does need some moisture, but a humid, high oxygen soil with enough ammonia (decomposing plants, urine.... ) is just right for it. 

Now, to totally dry out, like if we store the used filter media in a dry garage, that kills it.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

Diana said:


> If you are looking for a more compact way to keep the beneficial bacteria in your filter, then it might pay to buy the expensive materials with all the tests that show it works so well.


 That would be great reason to buy a more expensive media.
If you thought you needed more "surface area" ?


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Yes, but in a planted tank there are already plants doing part of the job, and whatever media you have in the filter is holding all the microorganisms you likely need. 

If you are talking about a non-planted tank, then bio media becomes very important.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

A question if I may...
I read that any/all hard or semi hard surfaces in a tank are places where the bio-bacteria live. To be sure that aria which gets flow(the entire inside of the filter primarily)has the best chance of bringing the water in contact/w this bacteria.
But if all hard surfaces have this bacteria, then any current making device would
cause water to flow over lots of this bacteria all throughout the tank if there were no
filter in the tank. Theoretically, you could get by without a filter given a low bio-load
in a tank/w a current producing device.
Is this not likely true ?
Sorry I had to...been wanting to ask that for many moons and this seemed like
a good time.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

I think you are getting the point Ray!
I have not kept planted tanks for the last 10 years I used only sponges.
My "if you thought you needed the surface area" comment was really supposed to make someone ask;"how much do I need?"
I think substrate,hardscapes,and circulation(in tank flow) make a difference.
The ony thing that ever happened to ANY of my tanks by removing"expensive bio media" was I got less nitrates in same time.Never had readable Ammonia or nitrite.
If sponges only work best in planted tanks,do to the plants "help" someone needs to explain how breeders get by with just sponges?
My GBR do fine with only air driven sponges,an AQ110 with only a sponge and regular waterchanges.80 (1")in a 55g with no hardscape or sub at all some floating plants.
You'll rarely ever see anything but sponges at a real breeders fish room.


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## PhilipS (Jan 9, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> Theoretically, you could get by without a filter given a low bio-load in a tank/w a current producing device.


Sure can. 

How do ponds exist?

-A simple powerhead with a sponge as the mechanical filter, or

-An air driven sponge filter or

-A full length bubble wall or multiple air stones.

CO2 levels will be lower than injected CO2. 

Still can be a focal point in the room.

Try it.


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## Zorfox (Jun 24, 2012)

Coralbandit said:


> I do agree that the reefers are way ahead of FW for nitrate control.


Apples to oranges. Planted tanks need nitrogenous waste. Reef tanks...not so much.



Diana said:


> Yes, but in a planted tank there are already plants doing part of the job, and whatever media you have in the filter is holding all the microorganisms you likely need.


Lets not forget the surface area plants provide for BB to colonize. Sure plants use nitrogenous waste, but they also house the bacteria we need. 



Diana said:


> If you are talking about a non-planted tank, then bio media becomes very important.


This is the reason many dwell on filtration techniques IMO. The majority of aquariums are SW or FW fish only (for the most part). The planted tanks are a small slice of the general hobby.



Raymond S. said:


> A question if I may...
> I read that any/all hard or semi hard surfaces in a tank are places where the bio-bacteria live. To be sure that aria which gets flow(the entire inside of the filter primarily)has the best chance of bringing the water in contact/w this bacteria. But if all hard surfaces have this bacteria, then any current making device would cause water to flow over lots of this bacteria all throughout the tank if there were no filter in the tank.
> 
> Theoretically, you could get by without a filter given a low bio-load
> in a tank/w a current producing device. Is this not likely true ?


I agree that many underestimate the BB colony our plants and hardscape house. Do we need additional BB colonies? It depends on the tank.

If you imagine the plants as our bio media, the more the better. So a heavily planted tank would have maximal surface area. 

Again, if we view plants as media we have to consider the time it takes to colonize new growth. We also have to consider trimming frequency. A heavy trim is synonymous with tossing half you media out of a non-planted tank.

So heavily planted low tech tank? Yes, you could do this without external filtration.

High tech? Lots of ups and downs for our BB colonies. Plants grow faster than BB colonize and then we trim them out. So having a buffer is needed.

IMO the amount of bio media needed is tank dependent. That said, more is better. The more external media we have the larger the buffer is when we rescape or do heavy trims. Much like the EI dosing method. More than enough causes no harm. Not enough? Well...


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## R_Andersen (Dec 31, 2010)

Coralbandit said:


> The ony thing that ever happened to ANY of my tanks by removing"expensive bio media" was I got less nitrates in same time.Never had readable Ammonia or nitrite.


I find this very interesting. I'm fighting a high nitrate problem in one of my tanks. It's a 29g moderately planted, pressurized CO2, medium light tank. I used to dose EI but have now totally cut out the KNO3 and only dose K, P and micros but I still have nitrates over 80 ppm regularly. 

On this tank I have an API Filstar XP3 (XP-L) filter and it's packed with Seachem Matrix, eheim substrat pro and other bio media in different baskets. It's technically way more filter than I need for the tank and I wonder if having too much bio media is causing the high nitrate?


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

R_Andersen said:


> I find this very interesting. I'm fighting a high nitrate problem in one of my tanks. It's a 29g moderately planted, pressurized CO2, medium light tank. I used to dose EI but have now totally cut out the KNO3 and only dose K, P and micros but I still have nitrates over 80 ppm regularly.
> 
> On this tank I have an API Filstar XP3 (XP-L) filter and it's packed with Seachem Matrix, eheim substrat pro and other bio media in different baskets. It's technically way more filter than I need for the tank and I wonder if having too much bio media is causing the high nitrate?


^That's a nitrate factory!^
When was last time you rinsed your bio media?
Despite any manufacturer or members claims(as all tanks are different) ALL media needs to rinsed every so often.


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## Zorfox (Jun 24, 2012)

R_Andersen said:


> I find this very interesting. I'm fighting a high nitrate problem in one of my tanks. It's a 29g moderately planted, pressurized CO2, medium light tank. I used to dose EI but have now totally cut out the KNO3 and only dose K, P and micros but I still have nitrates over 80 ppm regularly.
> 
> On this tank I have an API Filstar XP3 (XP-L) filter and it's packed with Seachem Matrix, eheim substrat pro and other bio media in different baskets. It's technically way more filter than I need for the tank and I wonder if having too much bio media is causing the high nitrate?


Since you were dosing EI did you also do at least a 50% weekly water change? Do you still do the same water changes after stopping KNO3 dosing?

As far as a large filter increasing nitrates, no. The filter size dose not control the nitrate levels. Basically, you can't get something from nothing. To "manufacture" X amount of nitrate you will need Y amount of waste. 80ppm per week seems like a lot unless you're feeding a huge amount.


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## R_Andersen (Dec 31, 2010)

Zorfox said:


> Since you were dosing EI did you also do at least a 50% weekly water change? Do you still do the same water changes after stopping KNO3 dosing?
> 
> As far as a large filter increasing nitrates, no. The filter size dose not control the nitrate levels. Basically, you can't get something from nothing. To "manufacture" X amount of nitrate you will need Y amount of waste. 80ppm per week seems like a lot unless you're feeding a huge amount.


Yeah, I've always done 50% water changes. I have 5 - 10 ppm NO3 in my tap water too depending on the time of year. I've been cleaning the filter (rinsed in tank water) and cleaning what gravel I can get too more frequently and it seems to be helping some.


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## Zorfox (Jun 24, 2012)

Coralbandit said:


> I got an attic with over 30g of bioballs(old{orange wingy things} and blue spiked balls). Never using them again.They will last forever though.


I'll pay the shipping. :wink:

I'm considering using my wet dry as a CO2 diffusion chamber (a lung). I actually need that air to gas surface area much like the alveoli. 

I've thought about it for some time. The main problem being CO2 gas will escape through the gravity drain. I happened across a type of drain that's used to prevent back flows. It seems a perfect fit for this system.

Here is what the drain would look like without water flow.










This is with water flow. The opening will change based on the amount of flow. This provides a constant positive pressure preventing the escape of gases. 










These are called Trap Guard drains.

Essentially, I am trying to create an artificial lung for the aquarium.

I won't hijack your thread getting into all the diffusion laws etc. But I think it should work.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

Zorfox said:


> I'll pay the shipping. :wink:
> 
> I'm considering using my wet dry as a CO2 diffusion chamber (a lung). I actually need that air to gas surface area much like the alveoli.
> 
> ...


 Hi jack away!
I'm interested in what you are doing and don't have a clue.
Bio balls are pretty cheap now,but although I won't use them for bio media,they have a place in reactors and other creative plans(sorry!).
Sooooo,
Dianne had it being worth more to fit in tight spaces and I agree.
Any other good reasons for the expense?
More particulary I want to hear from people who think the "xxx" brand is better and WHY?
I have heard MANY people say ehiem xx is the best or other brands? WHY?
What makes a bio media the best,and then how do we prove or know it?


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## Zorfox (Jun 24, 2012)

Gotcha. Can't hurt to ask :wink:

This idea does parallel what you're discussing so I guess it's not a total hijack. 

Here is a paper suggesting that increased pCO2 can accelerate denitrification. They saw an increase of five times. So this CO2 rich environment may very well increase denitrification as well.

Here is a link that briefly explains the laws used for this system. If you're not familiar with them you should check them out. It makes sense out of all the things we do to keep CO2 levels where we want them. There is a great video series, on you tube that explains them nicely. No Phd required. 

Henry's Law
Graham's Law
Fick's Law
O2 and CO2 solubility
Ideal gas law

So basically I will be able to diffuse CO2 at a more constant rate and possibly increase denitrification. Seems a win win to me.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Somewhere I remember seeing a test. 
Someone (a company selling a particular media???) set up a dozen or so tanks, with the same filter, different biomedia and added ammonia, monitored what happened over time. 
All the tanks cycled, then they kept on adding ammonia, and added more and more... 
Until the various bio media were no longer able to handle it. Bacteria had run out of acreage, no more room to grow. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I have used a very rough guide when splitting tanks. 
I start with the assumption that the filter holds 50% of the bacteria, and all the rest of the bacteria live on all the surfaces of the tank. 
Set up new tank, new substrate, new decor. 
Trim the plants to supply plants for the new tank, or plant new ones. 
Give the old, established filter to the new tank. 
Move half the fish to the new tank. 
Old tank gets a new filter. 
As near as possible I have split the bacteria population 50/50 and the fish population 50/50. Seems to be a balance that has worked several times. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Yes, I am aware that the surface of all the leaves are reasonable lodging sites for bacteria. 
Also, the roots of thriving plants add a lot more oxygen, deeper in the substrate, so this becomes another possible site for the bacteria. 

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Nitrifying bacteria grow best:
High oxygen. (this is usually why they are only in the top layer of a substrate, unless water is forced through it such as with a UGF, or in a planted tank)
Moderate ammonia.
Shade. In a fish-only tank, they will grow on the top layer of gravel, but not on the side exposed to the light. (I have no idea how they proved this!)
Moderate water flow. Not so strong it damages their bio film. Strong enough to bring them a constant supply of oxygen and ammonia.
and, per the link above, some increase in carbon.


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