# walstad method substrate



## masoudj021 (Nov 18, 2015)

hi
In my walstad tank I have white gravel I want to switch to substrate as she said in her book. 
1.any idea of how to switch from gravel to substrate ?
2.Does new substrate raise nitrate?
3.I want to move back my fish & plants in 1 day maximum. Is it possible?


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## JJ09 (Sep 11, 2014)

I have done a partial substrate change. Yes, you will get high nitrates- from stirring up all the mulm that was in your gravel. What is the new substrate you're putting in? If it's dirt, you might have excess ammonia, but I've never done a walstad so hopefully someone else will answer here. However here's what I did. Yours will be a bit easier because you're taking out _all _the gravel:

- Put your fish in some clean 5-gallon buckets (or other containers) with air stone running (maybe floating plants for cover and heater too if needed - I just cranked up the ambient heat in my room for a few hours)
- Remove some tank water (half tank volume) and reserve it in clean buckets.
-Siphon out all the gravel. Add more decholorinated water if you need to, to get all the gravel out.
- Put your new substrate in. Replant. Add water again if you need to see how the plants are positioned.
- Siphon out all the water down to the new substrate- to remove all the waste stirred up.
- Carefully return the reserved water (don't stir up the substrate again) and add fresh conditioned water to fill the tank. So half old, half new.
- Let the filter run for a while (I did half an hour) to clear the water and let things settle.
- Add your fishes back in. I acclimated mine again.
- Check the water quality regularly for some days and do partial water changes as needed, you might get a mini-cycle.

(I only lost one fish who jumped out of the bucket while I wasn't looking, in spite of the plant cover).


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## d33pVI (Oct 28, 2015)

If you are set on doing it, the procedure JJ laid out above will work fine. I just did a similar procedure in my tank.

I do feel the need to ask, why exactly do you feel you need to do this? If your plants are doing fine in you current set-up I see no need to muck things up. If you are just looking to provide more nutrients in the substrate you might want to just consider root tabs, Osmocote+ capsules (or the ice cube method). Much easier and cleaner.

If you just want to experiment with a dirt substrate, that's as good a reason as any. I just caution you that it isn't a magic silver-bullet cure-all solution and carries with it a whole host of new complications to deal with. Dirt substrates can be pretty messy. Organic soils tend to leach tannins into the water, sometimes for weeks or even months. They also can off-gas as the organic materials are broken down over time. You're basically putting a compost bin underneath some sand/gravel cap in your aquarium.

That said, it does work. Plants grow well in dirted tanks, just be ready to deal with some of the other issues it creates.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

I would mineralize the soil to reduce ammonia etc. in the water. 

You could do some extra gravel vacuuming in the week or two prior to the day you do the actual change. Try to get out as much debris as possible. 
Clean the filter several days or a week before so it has a chance to recover in case any damage is done to the bacteria population. 

Do not bother to save old water. It may help if there are mineral difference between old and new, but if you can match GH, KH, TDS, then all-new water is just fine. 

There will usually be a fair amount of nitrifying bacteria on the upper surface layer of the gravel. When you remove this it would be good to replace the lost bacteria. Get a bottle that includes Nitrospira species of bacteria. As you are refilling, add this to the filter.


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## dukydaf (Dec 27, 2004)

Hello 

Here are my recommendations 
Step 1. (Re)read the book. Just to refresh your memory on steps and what to expect.
Step 2. Prepare a fully cycled setup for your fish... they should not be added to the aquarium for 1-2 weeks
Step 3. Prepare the soil... clean swift mineralize
Step 4. Take everything out of the aquarium ( you are basically restarting the aquarium)
Step 5. Add soil, cap with sand and gravel 
Step 6. Plant 
Step 7. Slowly add water
----
Step 39 . Add fish

So as you see no easy way to add soil to the aquarium. It is a messy process, where you basically restart everything.In my experience / view soil tanks should not house fish for at least one week or 2.(I mean some may survive but why punish them so ?). Soil will release big levels of ammonia. Ammonia is very toxic to fish, much more problematic than nitrates. Having a lot of plants helps reduce the ammonia. But depending on your soil/amount even plants may have troubles in the beginning, big water changes are needed to reduce such levels. Aquariums need to be very well aerated (at least at first) so as to tip the equilibrium towards aerobic conditions. All these problems, and the recolonization of the substrate with 'good' bacteria will take time to solve.

Bottom line, not something to be done in 1 hour and something to be approach after careful planning, if you want to tip the balance in your favour.


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## masoudj021 (Nov 18, 2015)

I can weaken the soil in a tub or something to lower the nitrate level if possible. I dont have any tester.


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## masoudj021 (Nov 18, 2015)

d33pVI said:


> If you are set on doing it, the procedure JJ laid out above will work fine. I just did a similar procedure in my tank.
> 
> I do feel the need to ask, why exactly do you feel you need to do this? If your plants are doing fine in you current set-up I see no need to muck things up. If you are just looking to provide more nutrients in the substrate you might want to just consider root tabs, Osmocote+ capsules (or the ice cube method). Much easier and cleaner.
> 
> ...


I have algae problems I tought its because of my substrate .
I didnt use soil just filled with gravel


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## d33pVI (Oct 28, 2015)

Inert gravel has no way of contributing to an algae problem. Adding dirt has the potential to make it worse by increasing nutrient levels in the water. Decreased lighting, decreased organic waste, increased plant load and good water circulation are the best ways to reduce algae.


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## dukydaf (Dec 27, 2004)

Well most people want to add soil to their aquariums as a source of nitrate and other nutrients. It is the ammonia that is the most problematic. To make an idea, I had some fish at more than 40ppm for some time, no visible problems. Raise the ammonia to 2 ppm and fish will die. But yes presoaking the soil in a well oxygenated tub might help. Consider reading this article Nitrogen cycle | The Skeptical Aquarist

Nitrate alone does not cause algae. Although the substrate could be one factor, I highly doubt it in your case. If the gravel was long enough in your aquarium it will act as a nutrient source  ( much like a rich soil). This is one part of the Walstad setup, fish poo and food act as nutrients for plants. In my opinion you are more likely to experience algae problems with a soil substrate.

Second d33pVI post. Good plant growth and tank maintenance are key. What types of algae are you having problems with ? Is your aquarium full of plants ? Maybe post a pic.


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## masoudj021 (Nov 18, 2015)

dukydaf said:


> Well most people want to add soil to their aquariums as a source of nitrate and other nutrients. It is the ammonia that is the most problematic. To make an idea, I had some fish at more than 40ppm for some time, no visible problems. Raise the ammonia to 2 ppm and fish will die. But yes presoaking the soil in a well oxygenated tub might help. Consider reading this article Nitrogen cycle | The Skeptical Aquarist
> 
> Nitrate alone does not cause algae. Although the substrate could be one factor, I highly doubt it in your case. If the gravel was long enough in your aquarium it will act as a nutrient source  ( much like a rich soil). This is one part of the Walstad setup, fish poo and food act as nutrients for plants. In my opinion you are more likely to experience algae problems with a soil substrate.
> 
> Second d33pVI post. Good plant growth and tank maintenance are key. What types of algae are you having problems with ? Is your aquarium full of plants ? Maybe post a pic.


I have GSA algae no CO2 / 200 litre/ light:72W









I can not do water change. If water change in main tank is inevitable I prefer continue with my current gravel


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Your tank is very lightly planted. Not enough plants to out-compete the algae. I would concentrate on encouraging the current plants, and adding more, if you have a source for them.


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## vanish (Apr 21, 2014)

masoudj021 said:


> I can not do water change. If water change in main tank is inevitable I prefer continue with my current gravel


Say wha?!


How long do you have your lights on?


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

How do you expect to put fish back into a tank you basically just restarted with a heavy ammonia filled substrate? That's ridiculous at best. If you really want to do a walstad tank take it slow and do it right.

Sent from my SM-N910T using Tapatalk


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## HDBenson (Jan 26, 2015)

I'll second Diana's suggestion. GSA(green spot algae) is usually an indicator of low or no Phosphate, one of the big three plant nutrients. Increasing plant mass either through propagation or obtaining more plants and increasing your PO4(phosphate) will go a long way in remedying your GSA issue.


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## masoudj021 (Nov 18, 2015)

I have started dosing phosphate but in her book it's written that proposed substrate contribute producing CO2 and CO2 helps treating algae problems. I motivated changing my gravel because of this. but it seems troublesome. Maybe I should continue with my current gravel. 

Thank you very much for your helps.


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## d33pVI (Oct 28, 2015)

You might also look at your lighting duration. One of the things Walstad recommends is a 'siesta' regimen where the lights are on for 5 hours in the morning, off for 4 hours in the afternoon, and back on for 5 hours in the evening. Theory being that w/o pressurized CO2 injection the plants use up the available CO2 within a few hours of the lights being turned on. If the light stays on, the plants cannot compete with the algae as well in the low CO2 environment. Turning the light off for a few hours midday allows for the CO2 levels to reset.

After going through a beard algae infestation in one of my low tech tanks I knocked it out with peroxide and changed to the siesta lighting schedule. Haven't had any algae issues since. It also better aligns with my viewing hours since the light comes on when I get up, is off while I'm at work, and back on during the evening when I'm at home again. Highly recommend!


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## getkate22 (Apr 3, 2017)

Diana said:


> I would mineralize the soil to reduce ammonia etc. in the water.
> 
> You could do some extra gravel vacuuming in the week or two prior to the day you do the actual change. Try to get out as much debris as possible.
> Clean the filter several days or a week before so it has a chance to recover in case any damage is done to the bacteria population.
> ...


hi,

I have a planted tank pot earth in but I have the following issue, the Phosphate level has been above 5ppm every week the last 6 months, I saw that the level of Phosphate in the ground on the bag saw to high according to the walstad method so now I have a big out break of BGA, any one have any idea to resolve this, my tank is heavy planted and I also have floating plants but nothing helps


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