# Beamswork DA FSPEC and DHL 6500k PAR/LUX/Kelvin/PUR Data



## clownplanted

Hi Everyone. So today I had the pleasure of being able to get par data for the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED and also the Beamswork DHL 30 6500K. I have one of each 30" and also 48". So for the Beamswork DHL and DA FSPEC 30" long lights test I used a 20 Gallon long tank. So from Light to sensor the furthest I was able to go was 13". For the 48" DHL and DA FSPEC Lights I used my 60 gallon 24" tall tank. I must say I am quite impressed as to how powerful these Beamswork lights are. This is quite some PAR that they are putting out to say the least. So without further delay lets get the party started :nerd: :wink2:

Here is the overview graph of the two 30" lights and two 48" lights PAR data. Below is the specific reading per debth.










First sample I took par data of the DA FSPEC at 13" with no water so we can get a feel for the difference how much water amplifies par.

*30" DA FSPEC only*

13" No water 0" offset 
*70 par*









13" 0" Offset(This and rest of the readings are in Water)
*100 Par*









13" 6" Offset
*99 Par*









12" 0" Offset
*111 Par*









12" 6" Offset
*91 Par*









10" 0" Offset
*113 Par*









10" 6" Offset
*99 Par*









8" 0" Offset
*124 Par*









6" 0" Offset
*164 Par*









*DHL 6500K 30" only*

13" 0" Offset
*85 Par*









13" 6" Offset
*81 Par*









12" 0" Offset
*91 Par*









10" 0" Offset
*110 Par*









10" 6" Offset
*83 Par*









8" 0" Offset
*139 Par*









8" 6" Offset
*102 Par*









6" 0" Offset
*186 Par*










*DA FSPEC and DHL combined*

13" 0" Offset
*174 Par*









12" 0" Offset
*187 Par*









10" 0" Offset
*205 Par*









8" 0" Offset
*233 Par*









6" 0" Offset
*235 Par*









DA FSPEC 48"
22" 0" Offset
PAR 42









20" 0" Offset
Par 44









18" 0" Offset
Par 48









16" 0" Offset
Par 51









14" 0" Offset
Par 52









12" 0" Offset
Par 55









10" 0" Offset
Par 59









8" 0" Offset
Par 63









DHL 5500K 48"
22" 0" Offset
PAR 56









20" 0" Offset
PAR 60









18" 0" Offset
PAR 65









16" 0" Offset
PAR 67









14" 0" Offset
PAR 71









12" 0" Offset
PAR 73









10" 0" Offset
PAR 81









8" 0" Offset
PAR 89










DA 48" and DHL 48" Combined

22" 0" Offset
PAR 82









20" 0" Offset
PAR 83









18" 0" Offset
PAR 91









16" 0" Offset
PAR 96









14" 0" Offset
PAR 112









12" 0" Offset
PAR 116









10" 0" Offset
PAR 129









8" 0" Offset
PAR 135









To show the brightness for all the different lights. Thanks @jeffkrol for helping put the below tank shot pics together like this. Makes comparing brightness MUCH easier








For those that want to be able to dim the lights this dimmer works for both models both sizes. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FC04I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


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## awesometim1

Nice! Hopefully this proves beamswork is just as good as finnex lights in the par department, if not better. I own one of these and it's super bright. Thank you for the PAR readings. 


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## clownplanted

awesometim1 said:


> Nice! Hopefully this proves beamswork is just as good as finnex lights in the par department, if not better. I own one of these and it's super bright. Thank you for the PAR readings.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




I will be able to prove if it is or not better par wise than the finnex 24/7 tomorrow. It's play with kids time for now. Hopefully this data helps. 


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## milesm

thanks for posting the par data. one question, par for the da fspec at 13" 6" offset is higher than 13" 0". could you possibly re-check? thanks.

there is at least one other example where the par was higher at the offset than directly under, namely dhl 65k at 13".

rival to finnex? par-wise i'd say rival to kessil a80 tuna sun!


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## jeffkrol

Fie comparison:









Side note: Lux to PAR conversion looks pretty steady at LUX / 37-ish = PPFD.. but low compared to old estimates 
Divisor is expected to be 67-ish.. Hmmm..odd.
PAR values would be 1/2 those approx..
Not trying to throw any wrenches in here.. Seneye has been tested and compared to other PAR meters and found accurate. 
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2626700&highlight=seneye+apogee

From this data and the above link comparing it to an Apogee..the ratio is the same and PAR is accurate.
Either the old "assumption" is way off or Seneye underestimates LUX..

Get a phone app for lux.. see if it compares (might use the same tech though..)
A real LUX meter would be more definitive..

At this point can't say PAR is wrong..
Then the only current idea is the Seneye is under-reporting LUX by almost a factor of 2..


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## clownplanted

Updated data and created a PAR overview for the two lights


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## clownplanted

Ok so this was a lot harder than I thought it would be. I got the DHL and DA FSPEC 48" Data done. I had to do a serious trimming because some plants and especially my swords were just blocking too much light. The 12"+ Sword leaves are no joke. So I updated the first post with the Beamswork DA FSPEC and DHL 6500k 48" lights on my 60 gallon high tank. I also udpated the overview PAR graph at the beginning to show both the 30" and 48" DA FSPEC and DHL lights. I used a mount to ensure that the sensor was as stable as possible at all locations. Enjoy


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## jeffkrol

clownplanted said:


> Ok so this was a lot harder than I thought it would be. I got the DHL and DA FSPEC 48" Data done. I had to do a serious trimming because some plants and especially my swords were just blocking too much light. The 12"+ Sword leaves are no joke. So I updated the first post with the Beamswork DA FSPEC and DHL 6500k 48" lights on my 60 gallon high tank. I also udpated the overview PAR graph at the beginning to show both the 30" and 48" DA FSPEC and DHL lights. I used a mount to ensure that the sensor was as stable as possible at all locations. Enjoy


now for true accuracy and to become junior scientist... just repeat it 1/2 doz. times...


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## clownplanted

jeffkrol said:


> now for true accuracy and to become junior scientist... just repeat it 1/2 doz. times...


Lol I know right :wink2: Oh if you want to add this data to your existing graph feel free.


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## clownplanted

In case you all were wondering which light or combo of lights I am going to use for my 60 gallon well so I did not have to decide between any of them I am using all three on my tank. After all I like the Beamswork lights and also my Finnex 24/7.


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## Dragonfish

How do you like the color on the FSPEC? Looks like the main LEDs are 10,000K, is it too cool by itself? I'm thinking of using this light on a 60 gallon cube, and only need lowish light.


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## milesm

what's the total number of watts for all 3 fixtures? thanks.


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## clownplanted

Dragonfish said:


> How do you like the color on the FSPEC? Looks like the main LEDs are 10,000K, is it too cool by itself? I'm thinking of using this light on a 60 gallon cube, and only need lowish light.




I actually like it. It is the brightest of all three lights. It is actually the coolest of the three lights. Finnex hottest followers by warm dhl. Yes the fspec is 10,000k which some will not like but I actually do. My plants absolutely love these lights and are pearling like I have never seen them. 


















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## clownplanted

milesm said:


> what's the total number of watts for all 3 fixtures? thanks.


Finnex 24/7 is 46.2 Watts
Beamswork DHL 6500K is 63 Watts
Beamswork DA FSPEC is 60 Watts

Total watts with all three is 169.2


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## Dragonfish

FTS with just the FSPEC? Please?


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## clownplanted

Dragonfish said:


> FTS with just the FSPEC? Please?












Sorry but does FTS mean pic? Sorry about the glare.




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## Dragonfish

OH! Sorry Full Tank Shot. Thanks!


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## clownplanted

Dragonfish said:


> OH! Sorry Full Tank Shot. Thanks!




Lol no problem I should of known. Well there you go. I really like the brightness of the fspec. And the fact it has all the white, blue, green, and red led's. and actually I was wrong above the dhl is a bit brighter to the eyes. 


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## jeffkrol

Need a shot of each for color comparison..


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## clownplanted

Of course it wouldnt be a full comparison without the shots of different lights. Thanks @jeffkrol


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## jeffkrol

One more???
both Beamsworks..no 24/7


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## SKYE.__.HIGH

clownplanted said:


> Hi Everyone. So today I had the pleasure of being able to get par data for the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED and also the Beamswork DHL 30 6500K. I have one of each 30" and also 48". So for the Beamswork DHL and DA FSPEC 30" long lights test I used a 20 Gallon long tank. So from Light to sensor the furthest I was able to go was 13". For the 48" DHL and DA FSPEC Lights I used my 60 gallon 24" tall tank. I must say I am quite impressed as to how powerful these Beamswork lights are. This is quite some PAR that they are putting out to say the least. So without further delay lets get the party started :nerd: :wink2:
> 
> Here is the overview graph of the two 30" lights and two 48" lights PAR data. Below is the specific reading per debth.
> 
> 
> 
> First sample I took par data of the DA FSPEC at 13" with no water so we can get a feel for the difference how much water amplifies par.
> 
> *30" DA FSPEC only*
> 
> 13" No water 0" offset
> *70 par*
> 
> 
> 13" 0" Offset(This and rest of the readings are in Water)
> *100 Par*
> 
> 
> 13" 6" Offset
> *99 Par*
> 
> 
> 12" 0" Offset
> *111 Par*
> 
> 
> 12" 6" Offset
> *91 Par*
> 
> 
> 10" 0" Offset
> *113 Par*
> 
> 
> 10" 6" Offset
> *99 Par*
> 
> 
> 8" 0" Offset
> *124 Par*
> 
> 
> 6" 0" Offset
> *164 Par*
> 
> 
> *DHL 6500K 30" only*
> 
> 13" 0" Offset
> *85 Par*
> 
> 
> 13" 6" Offset
> *81 Par*
> 
> 
> 12" 0" Offset
> *91 Par*
> 
> 
> 10" 0" Offset
> *110 Par*
> 
> 
> 10" 6" Offset
> *83 Par*
> 
> 
> 8" 0" Offset
> *139 Par*
> 
> 
> 8" 6" Offset
> *102 Par*
> 
> 
> 6" 0" Offset
> *186 Par*
> 
> 
> 
> *DA FSPEC and DHL combined*
> 
> 13" 0" Offset
> *174 Par*
> 
> 
> 12" 0" Offset
> *187 Par*
> 
> 
> 10" 0" Offset
> *205 Par*
> 
> 
> 8" 0" Offset
> *233 Par*
> 
> 
> 6" 0" Offset
> *235 Par*
> 
> 
> DA FSPEC 48"
> 22" 0" Offset
> PAR 42
> 
> 
> 20" 0" Offset
> Par 44
> 
> 
> 18" 0" Offset
> Par 48
> 
> 
> 16" 0" Offset
> Par 51
> 
> 
> 14" 0" Offset
> Par 52
> 
> 
> 12" 0" Offset
> Par 55
> 
> 
> 10" 0" Offset
> Par 59
> 
> 
> 8" 0" Offset
> Par 63
> 
> 
> DHL 5500K 48"
> 22" 0" Offset
> PAR 42
> 
> 
> 20" 0" Offset
> PAR 44
> 
> 
> 18" 0" Offset
> PAR 48
> 
> 
> 16" 0" Offset
> PAR 51
> 
> 
> 14" 0" Offset
> PAR 52
> 
> 
> 12" 0" Offset
> PAR 55
> 
> 
> 10" 0" Offset
> PAR 59
> 
> 
> 8" 0" Offset
> PAR 63
> 
> 
> 
> DA and DHL Combined
> 
> 22" 0" Offset
> PAR 82
> 
> 
> 20" 0" Offset
> PAR 83
> 
> 
> 18" 0" Offset
> PAR 91
> 
> 
> 16" 0" Offset
> PAR 96
> 
> 
> 14" 0" Offset
> PAR 112
> 
> 
> 12" 0" Offset
> PAR 116
> 
> 
> 10" 0" Offset
> PAR 129
> 
> 
> 8" 0" Offset
> PAR 135




I'm sorry to quote this whole quote but I'm afraid I don't know what it means by it being offset. Could you please enlighten me, thanks


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## clownplanted

jeffkrol said:


> One more???
> both Beamsworks..no 24/7


Of course lol. Making me work :smile2::wink2: Updated post above.

Bump:


SKYE.__.HIGH said:


> I'm sorry to quote this whole quote but I'm afraid I don't know what it means by it being offset. Could you please enlighten me, thanks


With it being 0" offset there in a sense is no offset so the sensor is sitting directly under the light


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## jeffkrol

Well if you have to work I suppose I should too










will fix sizing later..


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## clownplanted

I must say I am really happy with the Beamswork lights. There really isn't anything I do not like about them and the par is better than I thought would be. My plants are sure liking them as well.


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## SKYE.__.HIGH

clownplanted said:


> Of course lol. Making me work :smile2::wink2: Updated post above.
> 
> Bump:
> 
> 
> 
> With it being 0" offset there in a sense is no offset so the sensor is sitting directly under the light




Alrighty thanks, should have known that


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## Aqua99

Nice job buddy! I love reading through data like this. I can't sit down with a novel and read for 5min, but can read through data and manuals for hours on end. Nice to see real numbers with several different lights collected by the same person and conditions.

Thx!


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## clownplanted

jeffkrol said:


> Well if you have to work I suppose I should too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> will fix sizing later..




I can put these in the first post when you resize them that way people don't have to scroll all the way before seeing the tank light images. Can you send me the urls when ready?


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## jeffkrol

clownplanted said:


> I can put these in the first post when you resize them that way people don't have to scroll all the way before seeing the tank light images. Can you send me the urls when ready?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


See above..how about that?


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## clownplanted

jeffkrol said:


> See above..how about that?




Looks great. Can see all in one screen. Much easier to see. Sweet. 

Added pics to first post


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## Bunsen Honeydew

clownplanted said:


> I must say I am really happy with the Beamswork lights. There really isn't anything I do not like about them and the par is better than I thought would be. My plants are sure liking them as well.


My only negative on my Beamswork is that I cannot set it up to ramp on and off, but that is rather nitpicky.


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## jeffkrol

sure you can.. Just "snip" a wire and put this in between the ps and light head..
$20 (the bay)-$30 add on..
TC420 1.4" LED Programmable Time Controller - Black (12~24V) - Free Shipping - DealExtreme

TC420 Programmable LED Time Controller


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## Bunsen Honeydew

Cool, thanks!


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## Dragonfish

Ok, I officially like the color of the DHL better, but do they make a 24" model? I can't seem to find one.


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## clownplanted

Dragonfish said:


> Ok, I officially like the color of the DHL better, but do they make a 24" model? I can't seem to find one.




Does not appear so. Smallest seems to be 30"


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## jeffkrol

Dragonfish said:


> Ok, I officially like the color of the DHL better, but do they make a 24" model? I can't seem to find one.


24" DHL may show up. DA is pretty equivalent..


> DA 6500K LED Aquarium Light 0.50W Freshwater Plant 24 30 36 48 72


$44.95


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## Bunsen Honeydew

clownplanted said:


> Does not appear so. Smallest seems to be 30"
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How different is this one?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FS6ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1

It's the 24" version of the one that I bought.


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## clownplanted

Bunsen Honeydew said:


> How different is this one?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4FS6ZU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&th=1
> 
> 
> 
> It's the 24" version of the one that I bought.




As @jeffkrol said it's very close par and color wise as the dhl. I actually tried to get that one over the da fspec but they were out of stock for the 48" and besides readings were already out for that one. I wanted to do par data for lights that did not have data for yet. 


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## Bunsen Honeydew

clownplanted said:


> As @jeffkrol said it's very close par and color wise as the dhl. I actually tried to get that one over the da fspec but they were out of stock for the 48" and besides readings were already out for that one. I wanted to do par data for lights that did not have data for yet.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I like it a lot, and it photographs yellower than it looks in person, like your DHL. Anyhoot, it is available in 24".;-)

I see what happened, Jeff and I posted at close to the same time and I missed it.


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## Kampo

well i'm feeling dumb now i didn't think the DA fspec really would have those types of numbers. just didn't compute lol. well i'm seriously considering just getting one fspec and one DA for my 120 and calling it a day.


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## herns

jeffkrol said:


> 24" DHL may show up. DA is pretty equivalent..
> 
> 
> $44.95


You dont really need the blue LED on planted tank unless you want to view at night. 
Can blue LED turned off without the use of timer add ons?


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## clownplanted

herns said:


> You dont really need the blue LED on planted tank unless you want to view at night.
> 
> Can blue LED turned off without the use of timer add ons?




Not by itself no. All on, blue only on or all off. This as an add on will let you. Timer Module for Beamswork or EVO Quad LED Aquarium Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDMOHH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5ObzbA7REBQ9


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## Kampo

clownplanted said:


> Not by itself no. All on, blue only on or all off. This as an add on will let you. Timer Module for Beamswork or EVO Quad LED Aquarium Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDMOHH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5ObzbA7REBQ9
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I wounder if anyone has taken the time to figure out if you can just short out a couple pins int he controller port to turn off blues can't be anything complex going on in there.

because other than that the timer is really not worth it because a wall timer or a TC420 controller does the same thing for less money.


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## Bunsen Honeydew

Kampo said:


> I wounder if anyone has taken the time to figure out if you can just short out a couple pins int he controller port to turn off blues can't be anything complex going on in there.
> 
> because other than that the timer is really not worth it because a wall timer or a TC420 controller does the same thing for less money.


With my own personal experience (incompetence) with these lights and the timer unit, the light is not very visually appealing without the blue lights. Especially if there are any tannins in your water. they got pretty yellow-green with out the balance of the blue.


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## herns

clownplanted said:


> Not by itself no. All on, blue only on or all off. This as an add on will let you. Timer Module for Beamswork or EVO Quad LED Aquarium Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EDMOHH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_W5ObzbA7REBQ9
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


 Seems you know Beamswork product well.
Do you know if they have models that comes with only white LED?

I could not find on searches.


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## jeffkrol

herns said:


> Seems you know Beamswork product well.
> Do you know if they have models that comes with only white LED?
> 
> I could not find on searches.


They did... though doesn't seem available atm..
Example of a WEAK one...
https://www.amazon.com/BeamsWork-Si...TF8&qid=1493669301&sr=8-24&keywords=beamswork


 600 Lumen 
 Super energy efficient *.1 watt* LEDs(booo)
 121x 6500K LEDs 
At one point you could get the .5W ones w/ only 6500k emitters..
Can still get the big ones in all 6500k though:



> Includes 64 LEDs
> 8640 Lumen
> 3 watt LEDs
> 64x 6500K




sems "moonlight" people won..


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## milesm

anyone know what the spread angle is of each led in fspec? thanks.


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## David Ellefson

I've really enjoyed this thread for some reason. It also led me to some tank journals and I gotta say I lost out on some sleep last night reading. This info is awesome. It has also made me realize how much I really like t5s. I wasn't even looking to add any light to my tank, but now may add 2 more bulbs more for red spectrum than for par. Really impressive work.


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## clownplanted

David Ellefson said:


> I've really enjoyed this thread for some reason. It also led me to some tank journals and I gotta say I lost out on some sleep last night reading. This info is awesome. It has also made me realize how much I really like t5s. I wasn't even looking to add any light to my tank, but now may add 2 more bulbs more for red spectrum than for par. Really impressive work.




Thank you I feel honored the excitement it has given you. I must say it was a ton of fun putting it all together. Never done in in depth thread like this. My hope was to help some take the guess work out of making a light decision and glad that even in your case that has t5 has helped as well. My plan is to get full use out of this Seneye par meter and would love to do more light readings. 


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## David Ellefson

Keep it coming. Taking the guess work out is what it does for sure. I just bought a stingray for a 20l and would have never considered a beamswork. After seeing this thread, I've experienced great cognitive dissonance over my purchase.

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## awesometim1

Beamswork is making my hc pearl right now as I speak. Although I am supplementing it with co2...


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## clownplanted

awesometim1 said:


> Beamswork is making my hc pearl right now as I speak. Although I am supplementing it with co2...
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk




Very nice. And now that I have more par at substrate and good spread and no dead spots my plants that were struggling in the corners are struggling no more. Only bad thing is trimmings have to happen more often as plants are now trying to grow out of the tank lol. In fact this morning I had to do a major Amazon sword trimming due to the width of leaves were half as wide as the tank. Length of some were easily 18"


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## jeffkrol

milesm said:


> anyone know what the spread angle is of each led in fspec? thanks.


Guessing, since it it fairly "standard", about 120 degrees..
Only small SMD fixture that deviates from this is "possibly" RAYII @ 90 degrees...


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## milesm

jeffkrol said:


> Guessing, since it it fairly "standard", about 120 degrees..
> Only small SMD fixture that deviates from this is "possibly" RAYII @ 90 degrees...


interesting you say "standard". fluval (and maybe finnex) use 120 as a marketing tool.


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## jeffkrol

milesm said:


> interesting you say "standard". fluval (and maybe finnex) use 120 as a marketing tool.


well that's marketing for you.. At the worst most "off the shelf" SMD's would even have larger angles (130-140 degrees)..which would spread even more..
Think they are comparing themselves to the 3w'ers w/ 90 degree optics..

AFAICT and somewhat only rumor at this point. RayII's used 90 degree lenses on their diodes..
Until proven differently, this is the story I'm sticking to..
Check all the data sheets you like .. most are at least 120..


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## PlantApprentice

Would you say the PAR on the 36" DA FSPEC at 16" depth is around the same as the 30" DA FSPEC at 16" depth?


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## Bunsen Honeydew

PlantApprentice said:


> Would you say the PAR on the 36" DA FSPEC at 16" depth is around the same as the 30" DA FSPEC at 16" depth?


PAR should be about the same, just better coverage.


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## PlantApprentice

Bunsen Honeydew said:


> PAR should be about the same, just better coverage.


Thank you for the quick response. Just making sure before I bite the bullet to get one. Going for low-med light.


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## Bunsen Honeydew

PlantApprentice said:


> Thank you for the quick response. Just making sure before I bite the bullet to get one. Going for low-med light.


I asked the same question when I was setting up. The thing to remember is that PAR is a point measurement, so adding length of the same light will just extend the area in which you have a higher PAR. Reef guys like to make 2D maps of PAR measurements, and a bar light will give you a rounded rectangle shape of highest PARs, with a gradient of lower values extending out. ( I need to find a picture of this) A longer light isn't going to necessarily intensify the middle are, but lengthen it.

Sorry if I am over-explaining this, but it was the connection of thoughts that made it make more sense to me.

Edit: Here is an LED build thread from a reef site that someone here has linked that has some PAR maps (post 12).
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2627991


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## jeffkrol

Bunsen Honeydew said:


> I asked the same question when I was setting up. The thing to remember is that PAR is a point measurement, so adding length of the same light will just extend the area in which you have a higher PAR. Reef guys like to make 2D maps of PAR measurements, and a bar light will give you a rounded rectangle shape of highest PARs, with a gradient of lower values extending out. ( I need to find a picture of this) A longer light isn't going to necessarily intensify the middle are, but lengthen it.
> 
> Sorry if I am over-explaining this, but it was the connection of thoughts that made it make more sense to me.
> 
> Edit: Here is an LED build thread from a reef site that someone here has linked that has some PAR maps (post 12).
> LED wall build 500W DIY - Reef Central Online Community


Orphek PR156.. a 4x 'X" array w/ 3w diodes lensed..

























Lighting basics for people new to the Aquascaping hobby | APSA


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## Bunsen Honeydew

And the very guy that I asked the same question to chimes in with better pictures.


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## ct60g

I have a question - why run both of those Beamsworks? Why not just run two FSPECs or two DHLs? I'm curious, there must be something to do with the spectrum that I don't understand.


----------



## clownplanted

ct60g said:


> I have a question - why run both of those Beamsworks? Why not just run two FSPECs or two DHLs? I'm curious, there must be something to do with the spectrum that I don't understand.




My original intention was to run one or the other with my Finnex 24/7. Not both. There was no par data out there for either one. I was originally just going to get one but decided to get both so I could decide after seeing which one I liked best. I really liked both lights so decided to run both with the finnex. Problem running three led lights was too much heat and no room on top of tank to even be able to feed my fish. Was taking up all of 12 inches of width of my tank. Didn't need 120+ par at sub so I decided to take off the fspec and am currently running the dhl with the finnex. 


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## SeaCur

This is awesome info, I got the 30 inch running on a 20L and I'm only running it on 12V because it was so bright. You don't have a 12V supply you could take a couple data points with do you?

Edit: 30 inch fspec


----------



## jeffkrol

SeaCur said:


> This is awesome info, I got the 30 inch running on a 20L and I'm only running it on 12V because it was so bright. You don't have a 12V supply you could take a couple data points with do you?
> 
> Edit: 30 inch fspec


thats surprising.. I know you can use a range of voltages but going from 15 to 12 is a bit extreme for diodes..


----------



## clownplanted

SeaCur said:


> This is awesome info, I got the 30 inch running on a 20L and I'm only running it on 12V because it was so bright. You don't have a 12V supply you could take a couple data points with do you?
> 
> Edit: 30 inch fspec




Unfortunately I do not have a 12V to test on

Also the 20L is fully stocked with plants now. 










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## dealend

Nice... beamsworks fan?


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## SeaCur

What are those yellow stems?


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew

dealend said:


> Nice... beamsworks fan?


It's hard to beat the PAR/$ on them.


----------



## dealend

Bunsen Honeydew said:


> It's hard to beat the PAR/$ on them.


I agree.


----------



## David Ellefson

I like my t5s as stated earlier in this discussion, but with my t5 fixture just quitting on me after replacing the bulbs a few weeks ago, and not seeing anything in t5 fixtures that fits my application that I like, I think I am gonna order one of these for my 55g. I knew there was a reason this thread was so interesting to me. Still hard to pull the trigger.


----------



## clownplanted

David Ellefson said:


> I like my t5s as stated earlier in this discussion, but with my t5 fixture just quitting on me after replacing the bulbs a few weeks ago, and not seeing anything in t5 fixtures that fits my application that I like, I think I am gonna order one of these for my 55g. I knew there was a reason this thread was so interesting to me. Still hard to pull the trigger.


Good stuff. Ya the lights are working great on my 60 gallon and 20L tanks. 
https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-65...d=1494456829&sr=8-1&keywords=beamswork+dhl+48


----------



## David Ellefson

I may try one on my 20L once I diffuse the co2 in it better than thru my aquaclear filter. My t5 fixture has been my goto on the 55g for about 7 years. Not sure which fixture I'm gonna go with but the deed will get done tonight before plants start dying too bad.

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## David Ellefson

So I had the t5 fixture on the tank rim. Open top. m I gonna have to cover it now because of the LEDs?

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## clownplanted

David Ellefson said:


> So I had the t5 fixture on the tank rim. Open top. m I gonna have to cover it now because of the LEDs?
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


I do not see why you would have to cover it? This light will just sit right on top.


----------



## dealend

David Ellefson said:


> So I had the t5 fixture on the tank rim. Open top. m I gonna have to cover it now because of the LEDs?
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


Most beamswork LED come with the stand. Not like T5 (probably need to hang them).

The LED stand could sit on top of the tank(rimmed or rimless) as long the size is correct.


----------



## jeffkrol

Dragonfish said:


> FTS with just the FSPEC? Please?


His tank.. Second one on the left..


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew

David Ellefson said:


> So I had the t5 fixture on the tank rim. Open top. m I gonna have to cover it now because of the LEDs?
> 
> Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk


As mentioned, the lights have legs/stands on them. Though the DHL and DA models are close to the same light, the legs are probably the biggest difference. Check out the pics on Amazon. I have read that the DHL style can sag if extended to full length.


----------



## David Ellefson

Sorry to muddy this thread. I fixed my light and ordered a dhl anyway lol. I honestly couldn't pass it up for $60.


----------



## Dragonfish

Do you think a single 24" DA FSPEC will be enough on a 24" cube? I plan to keep anubias, buce and crypts, and maybe some tall vals or swords.


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew

Dragonfish said:


> Do you think a single 24" DA FSPEC will be enough on a 24" cube? I plan to keep anubias, buce and crypts, and maybe some tall vals or swords.


Probably. I would be worried about the spread a little front to back, but it "should" be OK. I light a 92 gallon corner aquarium with a single 36" strip, and I can grow those plants (except I don't have buce) anywhere in my aquarium. My dimensions are 24" deep, and 34" radius, so my need for light spreading is probably worse than yours.


----------



## PlantApprentice

Bunsen Honeydew said:


> I asked the same question when I was setting up. The thing to remember is that PAR is a point measurement, so adding length of the same light will just extend the area in which you have a higher PAR. Reef guys like to make 2D maps of PAR measurements, and a bar light will give you a rounded rectangle shape of highest PARs, with a gradient of lower values extending out. ( I need to find a picture of this) A longer light isn't going to necessarily intensify the middle are, but lengthen it.
> 
> Sorry if I am over-explaining this, but it was the connection of thoughts that made it make more sense to me.
> 
> Edit: Here is an LED build thread from a reef site that someone here has linked that has some PAR maps (post 12).
> LED wall build 500W DIY - Reef Central Online Community


thanks man and yes it did make sense. I'll get the same PAR, just the PAR will be extended by 6" since I need the 36" light and not the 30"


----------



## PlantedRich

I'm slowly catching up on the interesting reads on the forum. That makes me pretty late for comments on this info. First I want to say it is really good info to have and study but then I also want to throw in that I tend to be one who looks at the techie side of lighting but don't always apply the info I gain. I often find light in my tank and planning are a bit like what I find outside when planning a garden. 
We choose plants carefully and decide which plants to go in the sun and which plants to go in the shade but then after a single growing season, we may find the plan is not working as nature has changed the specs on us! 
Some of the same happens in my tanks. Some of the changes are harder to deal with than outside but other parts are easier. In our tanks, we do get to control the weather unlike outside.
The part that I find much easier in my tank than outside is the redo when I find I've made a mistake and I do assume there will be mistakes. Trimming a sword is pretty tame, cheap and easy compared to doing the same for an oak tree! 
The comparison leaves me much less inclined to worry the exact light requirements for all my plants and every space in the tank as I know that I will have to change things as the plants grow. Maybe if I planted one single type plant and had no moving /growing things to get tall and shade other plants, it would be easy. But then I do love my big awkward stuff like swords and tiger lotus so I just live with it, knowing that they will soon change the whole picture of the carefully planned lighting. 
I will soon be getting a Beamworks and this is good info to let me know what the light is doing but then I already know that lots of that light will not get down to the bottom once I start throwing in the other parts of the tank. 
Nature has a very random way to deal with my best laid plans!


----------



## clownplanted

PlantedRich said:


> I'm slowly catching up on the interesting reads on the forum. That makes me pretty late for comments on this info. First I want to say it is really good info to have and study but then I also want to throw in that I tend to be one who looks at the techie side of lighting but don't always apply the info I gain. I often find light in my tank and planning are a bit like what I find outside when planning a garden.
> 
> We choose plants carefully and decide which plants to go in the sun and which plants to go in the shade but then after a single growing season, we may find the plan is not working as nature has changed the specs on us!
> 
> Some of the same happens in my tanks. Some of the changes are harder to deal with than outside but other parts are easier. In our tanks, we do get to control the weather unlike outside.
> 
> The part that I find much easier in my tank than outside is the redo when I find I've made a mistake and I do assume there will be mistakes. Trimming a sword is pretty tame, cheap and easy compared to doing the same for an oak tree!
> 
> The comparison leaves me much less inclined to worry the exact light requirements for all my plants and every space in the tank as I know that I will have to change things as the plants grow. Maybe if I planted one single type plant and had no moving /growing things to get tall and shade other plants, it would be easy. But then I do love my big awkward stuff like swords and tiger lotus so I just live with it, knowing that they will soon change the whole picture of the carefully planned lighting.
> 
> I will soon be getting a Beamworks and this is good info to let me know what the light is doing but then I already know that lots of that light will not get down to the bottom once I start throwing in the other parts of the tank.
> 
> Nature has a very random way to deal with my best laid plans!




Very well put. This is why for me it's important based on me having 5 swords that I have two lights to ensure that the spread is better and all plants have a better chance at getting light. I feel that light is the most important aspect of a planted tank as light is their fuel. Without the proper fuel or enough you will simply see them in the side of the highway broke down. My swords could easily cover the entire top of the tank starving all other plants but at least having a better spread the light is more shared for the ones especially on the bottom. 

I feel that the swords especially large ones are the redwoods of our planted tanks and need maintenance more than most to ensure that they don't take all the light. Good stuff @PlantedRich


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## PlantedRich

0
Cut, hack, and adapt those big fellows as needed? Can't say it make the base look much better to have stubs sticking up but it does clear room for the fish.


----------



## clownplanted

PlantedRich said:


> 0
> 
> Cut, hack, and adapt those big fellows as needed? Can't say it make the base look much better to have stubs sticking up but it does clear room for the fish.




Lol yup mine looks very similar. Figure those will eventually fall or rot off? The based on three of mine are very thick from trimmings. 


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## PlantedRich

I think what we would have to call that is "rotting plant debris"? Not like it is really a good thing to have in the tank and I should trim much better. But then it also fits my loose way of running that tank as the fish are the priority. 
It gets down to what amount of effort is expended to make conditions right for the fish versus the same for the plants. I want space for the fish so the plant takes a beating! I'm working on getting some plant tanks going in the back room but I'm finding I'm short of motivation for really thinking too hard on the job.
I just ditched all the wisteria that I was trying because it did more than I wanted! I thought I wanted a fast grower to soak up the nitrate as the tank is going to be running pretty heavy loads of fry as I grow them out but I did not want the stuff to shoot to the top and spread out like an umbrella! That is what brought my thought of how quickly things change and how it effects the lighting plan. I left the tank and it was on timers and just getting a look-in from the tank watch folks and while I was gone for a couple weeks, the wisteria turned the rest of the tank into a shade garden!


----------



## APynckel

Any info for the 18"? Looking to replace 2x satellite +Pro's for my 18" cubic dutch.


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## clownplanted

APynckel said:


> Any info for the 18"? Looking to replace 2x satellite +Pro's for my 18" cubic dutch.




Will be close to what the 30" is to be honest maybe 10% less at most? @jeffkrol may have a better idea. Just did the par data for the 30" and 48". I would say that you for sure would get good growth with these as myself and many others do. 


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## Kampo

clownplanted said:


> Will be close to what the 30" is to be honest maybe 10% less at most? @jeffkrol may have a better idea. Just did the par data for the 30" and 48". I would say that you for sure would get good growth with these as myself and many others do.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


for a hightech 18" planted I'd look into the beamswork evo quad clipon with a LED controller like a TC420. can dim it down if needed. but will give you more than enough power, and pretty reasonable price wise.


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## Stacy1

Before finding this thread I purchased a DA 6500k for one of my tanks. The plants are doing fine but I'm not in love with the light due to the yellow look I'm getting from it. The tank has pool filter sand for substrate and maybe that has something to do with it as all my other tanks have dark substrate, but this tank has alot more yellowish tint to it than my other 6500k lights. With the DA fspec having 10,000k leds, will the plants still grow to their potential, or would I also need to leave the 6500 and just add the fspec to accent it?


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## Bunsen Honeydew

Stacy1 said:


> Before finding this thread I purchased a DA 6500k for one of my tanks. The plants are doing fine but I'm not in love with the light due to the yellow look I'm getting from it. The tank has pool filter sand for substrate and maybe that has something to do with it as all my other tanks have dark substrate, but this tank has alot more yellowish tint to it than my other 6500k lights. With the DA fspec having 10,000k leds, will the plants still grow to their potential, or would I also need to leave the 6500 and just add the fspec to accent it?


Are you using the BW timer?

If you are, make sure that you have both the white and blue lights on. Just white looks like crap.

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## clownplanted

Stacy1 said:


> Before finding this thread I purchased a DA 6500k for one of my tanks. The plants are doing fine but I'm not in love with the light due to the yellow look I'm getting from it. The tank has pool filter sand for substrate and maybe that has something to do with it as all my other tanks have dark substrate, but this tank has alot more yellowish tint to it than my other 6500k lights. With the DA fspec having 10,000k leds, will the plants still grow to their potential, or would I also need to leave the 6500 and just add the fspec to accent it?


Two lights unless you are running high tech would be too much light and tons of algae would happen. Are you doing high tech? A single DA FSPEC would be good as that is what I am running on my low tech 20L tank right now. Plants are growing great with it. It works for freshwater great. I also prefer the color of the fspec over the dhl. You can see the pics earlier in the thread that shows the different lights on my tank.


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## David Ellefson

Pics of the 30" on a 20L and a 48" on my 55g. I couldnt be happier with my purchases. Easy on the tanks. I'm no aquascaper. Just working on healthy plants growing well.


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## PlantApprentice

I looked at the PAR chart you posted as the first post to start this thread and I'd like to know why the there is a considerably large different in PAR between the 30" and 48"


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## ChrisX

How can it be that a 6500K light has a yellowish look? I thought that was cool white and had some blues in it.

Great thread, great products, just wondering why.

I installed a 6000K DIY led strip on my old tank and it has that clean / bluish look to it. I added some 4K lights to balance it out.


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## Bunsen Honeydew

ChrisX said:


> How can it be that a 6500K light has a yellowish look? I thought that was cool white and had some blues in it.
> 
> Great thread, great products, just wondering why.
> 
> I installed a 6000K DIY led strip on my old tank and it has that clean / bluish look to it. I added some 4K lights to balance it out.


In my experience, the light looks yellow/green without the blues on. You can only run white only with the timer. Tannins in the water exacerbate the yellow.

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## mkiker85

I have a finnex 24/7 on my 35. 
I just bought a 75 g yesterday, it is cycling now. I started looking at lights before I bought the tank. I don't want to spend $130 or so for a 48" 24/7. 

I saved the beamswork EA fspec 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019...s=beamswork+ea+timer+fspec+led+aquarium+light

How would this light be comparable with the DA fspec or dhl? Not sure what it means by plant expendable in the title. Its $39 vs the $65 dhl so I would assume it's not as good. But you can't always go by that. 

Any info would be greatly Appreciated. 

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## Stacy1

Its my understanding that the EA has nowhere near the par values that the dhl 6500k or the DA has. I believe that is where the price difference comes in. The DA 6500k that I have I dont run on a timer so the blue lights are on. There is no tannins in the tank. It definitely has a yellow look to it though. I believe it is due to the pool filter sand substrate. I ordered a dhl 6500k for a 30gal tank and it came in today. That tank has black diamond blasting sand substrate and looking at the da6500k on the pool filter sand and the dhl6500k on blasting sand dark substrate, they dont look like the same kelvin rating leds. I'll try and get some pics and post tomorrow. My plants seem to love both lights. I just dont like the look of the da on light substrate


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## mkiker85

Thanks Stacy1 I pretty much figured that light would not be as good. I have pool filter sand as well, so I think I will try out the dhl with the timer. 

So I don't mess up this is the dhl light that has been talked about in this thread correct? https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-Lumen-Aquarium-Marine-Cichlid/dp/B01FVJMFPC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496512984&sr=8-1&keywords=beamswork+dhl+led+light


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## clownplanted

mkiker85 said:


> Thanks Stacy1 I pretty much figured that light would not be as good. I have pool filter sand as well, so I think I will try out the dhl with the timer.
> 
> 
> 
> So I don't mess up this is the dhl light that has been talked about in this thread correct? https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-Lu...12984&sr=8-1&keywords=beamswork+dhl+led+light




That is not the right one. This one is. This is the one I did the data for in this thread and have. It's the same price as one you linked so make sure to get this one. Beamswork LED 1W 6500K HI Lumen Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant (DHL 48 6500K) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVNPZN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WbWmzb1K4M6Q6

The one you linked is the 10k one which you don't want. This one is the 6500k.

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## mkiker85

Thank you clownplanted, glad I made sure. Thank you for the effort you put into making this thread.


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## clownplanted

mkiker85 said:


> Thank you clownplanted, glad I made sure. Thank you for the effort you put into making this thread.




Ya that one they messed up in the add. Says lumens 6500 even though shows the lights 10k. The one I linked is right. 


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## mkiker85

I saved the one you linked to my wish list, and removed the other one. Hopefully after I pay bills tonight i'll be able to buy it.


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## kunudog

Has anyone tried this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N...UTF8&qid=1496548880&sr=8-6&keywords=beamswork. Is this the updated version of the 6500k? It has the plastic legs and .5 W diodes like the FSPEC. I'm not sure if that is a newer line or something. 

Im looking to add another light (6500k) to the FSPEC I just purchased for a high light setup on a 75. Which would everyone recommend between the light I posted and the DHL. It also looks like the light I posted is out of stock, hopefully it won't take too long to restock. 


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## clownplanted

kunudog said:


> Has anyone tried this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N...UTF8&qid=1496548880&sr=8-6&keywords=beamswork. Is this the updated version of the 6500k? It has the plastic legs and .5 W diodes like the FSPEC. I'm not sure if that is a newer line or something.
> 
> Im looking to add another light (6500k) to the FSPEC I just purchased for a high light setup on a 75. Which would everyone recommend between the light I posted and the DHL. It also looks like the light I posted is out of stock, hopefully it won't take too long to restock.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk




That is actually the older line. But is good. To be honest both are very good. I have not had it tested the pent but the info I have seen on it shows it being a very good plant light. You would be good to go with either one. And since that one is sold out I would go with the dhl 1W 6500k. I love my two DHL's I have on both my 60 and 20 tanks. 


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## kunudog

clownplanted said:


> That is actually the older line. But is good. To be honest both are very good. I have not had it tested the pent but the info I have seen on it shows it being a very good plant light. You would be good to go with either one. And since that one is sold out I would go with the dhl 1W 6500k. I love my two DHL's I have on both my 60 and 20 tanks.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for the help. Just ordered the DHL

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## mkiker85

I got my bills paid and had money left over, I bought the DHL 48 6500K and timer for it. I'll have to post a pic once I get it.


----------



## clownplanted

mkiker85 said:


> I got my bills paid and had money left over, I bought the DHL 48 6500K and timer for it. I'll have to post a pic once I get it.


Sounds good and looking forward to the pic.


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew

kunudog said:


> Has anyone tried this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N...UTF8&qid=1496548880&sr=8-6&keywords=beamswork. Is this the updated version of the 6500k? It has the plastic legs and .5 W diodes like the FSPEC. I'm not sure if that is a newer line or something.
> 
> Im looking to add another light (6500k) to the FSPEC I just purchased for a high light setup on a 75. Which would everyone recommend between the light I posted and the DHL. It also looks like the light I posted is out of stock, hopefully it won't take too long to restock.
> 
> 
> Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk


This is the light that I have, and I like it quite a bit. I have heard that it is comparable to the DHL.


----------



## cadd

This thread is awesome thanks to the OP!!!

Now, I'm torn between these two Beamswork lights. I can see the DA FSPEC is more white and the DHL 6500k has a slightly warmer tint to it. Without the side by side comparison, I'm sure I would be happy with either light. But with side by side photos, it's a much harder decision. Sometimes having too much info isn't a good thing! =)
@David Ellefson, post #94. Which light are you using in those photos?


----------



## DangerDonkey

Thanks as well for this thread. After searching all over to figure out how much light is too much light and everybody's bro-aquarium science this thread packs everything that I ever questioned (including the overlapping LED's and how much light at the corner of the tanks).

I just bought the FSPEC and hopefully that will help improve my planting results.


----------



## Glyphic

I just ordered the DHL 6500k, this should be plenty for my 29g correct? Some folks in other threads said the fpsec was better due to having more rows of lights, but I couldn't seem to find any updated consensus.


----------



## sandybeach

Thank you for this. I was considering purchasing the Beamswork LED 1W 6500K in the 48" for my tank but couldn't find PAR ratings for it and I was getting mixed info along the way. I am still a bit confused, but am gaining a better understanding little by little. I was told I would need two 48" Beamswork for my 55g to achieve moderate lighting. But from your chart, I believe I will only need one. 

From my limited understanding of PAR, the values are as follows (please correct me if I am wrong, I am still learning) :
20-40 mcmol are considered low light with CO2 not being required at this level but beneficial to plants. 
40-90 mcmol are considered to be medium light with CO2 needed at this level to avoid algae. 
90-130 mcmol are considered high light where pressurized CO2 is vital in order to avoid algae blooms/outbreaks. 

The value of micromoles at the top of the substrate level will determine if the light is producing high, medium or low light frequencies...yes? So for moderate lighting at 18" I would want a reading of 40 to 90 mcmol? 

Are the micromole values I have listed correct? Seems to be varying opinions/info out there, which is why this has been so confusing for me. I found conflicting information saying that 50 or less is low, 50 to 150 is med and 150 and above is high. Oy Vey!


----------



## clownplanted

sandybeach said:


> Thank you for this. I was considering purchasing the Beamswork LED 1W 6500K in the 48" for my tank but couldn't find PAR ratings for it and I was getting mixed info along the way. I am still a bit confused, but am gaining a better understanding little by little. I was told I would need two 48" Beamswork for my 55g to achieve moderate lighting. But from your chart, I believe I will only need one.
> 
> 
> 
> From my limited understanding of PAR, the values are as follows (please correct me if I am wrong, I am still learning) :
> 
> 20-40 mcmol are considered low light with CO2 not being required at this level but beneficial to plants.
> 
> 40-90 mcmol are considered to be medium light with CO2 needed at this level to avoid algae.
> 
> 90-130 mcmol are considered high light where pressurized CO2 is vital in order to avoid algae blooms/outbreaks.
> 
> 
> 
> The value of micromoles at the top of the substrate level will determine if the light is producing high, medium or low light frequencies...yes? So for moderate lighting at 18" I would want a reading of 40 to 90 mcmol?
> 
> 
> 
> Are the micromole values I have listed correct? Seems to be varying opinions/info out there, which is why this has been so confusing for me. I found conflicting information saying that 50 or less is low, 50 to 150 is med and 150 and above is high. Oy Vey!




Really do not worry about the number. Consider that many run high tech with high light plants and carpets with 40-50 par. So a single one of these is good for a high tech tank. There are different opinions and that's all they are as far as what is considered low/medium/high light. I do know that a single dhl is good for a carpet and high tech setup. That's all you should be worried about and not necessarily all the numbers of what low to high is. My opinion. 


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## barb1221

*I ordered it today from Amazon*

I read your helpful info on this hood was trying to figure out why my led hood was not growing plants. After some research determined that it only has 10k white & ? blue not at all full spectrum. Love reading what everyone else is doing and trying, it really helps me. I have a planted 29 gal: 6 rummy nose 3 congo male, 3 panda cories, 5 neons, 1 very lonely blue german.


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## cadd

You guys with the Beamswork light, does your power supply get this hot? How about other brands? Do power supplies normally get hot like this? I've seen it up to 128 degrees! Very uncomfortable holding it for more than 30 seconds at that temperature.

For the record: I have the DA FSPEC


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## jeffkrol

This is somewhat hit and miss for most brands..
Wouldn't mind a data base of issues though..

On a practical sense..from computers to LEd's PS's are consumables.. though it is better than in the past..


----------



## clownplanted

So for those wanting to dim these Beamswork lights as they are a bit too powerful for no co2 then I found a dimmer that works great and works for both the DHL 1W 6500k and the FSPEC both 30" and 48". It is very nice and thanks to my par meter I was able to go from 100 par down to 40 due to very low co2 in my shrimp tank. Again you can use this on both models both 30" and 48". It is very handy and the plugs fit exactly with the dimmer. I got it on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FC04I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I updated the first post with the dimmer option.


----------



## markf

clownplanted thanks for all the info and par data. I had one fspec on a 40 breeder and went with a second light and chose the dhl, 2 lights needed on a 40 breeder due to depth front to back. Puts out a lot of light and happy so far. Pic is with both on, but looks a lot brighter in person.


----------



## Glyphic

Got my Beamswork DHL today for my 29Gallon. It's so.... bright!


----------



## klinger988

Can you explain why the PAR is different based on the length of the light? The same model light but with different lengths at 12in is 100 vs 50s. Does the shorter light just pack more LEDs into a smaller space? I would have expected the amount of LEDs to be proportional to the length making the PAR at any point similar regardless of light length. Thanks!!


----------



## poliad

so i have one of the beamswork DHL 48" 6500Ks, was wondering if you fellas think it'll be enough for getting some micranthemum monte carlo to carpet in my 55 gal, standard size, 20" or so deep, or do you think i should get a second set like the finnex? :icon_cool 
also: going to go heavily planted, but plan on mostly a variety of shrimp; cherries, ghosts, bamboo, etc... so co2 supplementation may have to be kept kinda low.
after thinking for myself and reading the first post, it seems like this fixture will provide around 44 mm PAR at my substrate depth, which sounds about just right for light photoperiod co2, and monte carlo


----------



## The Dude1

This is such an amazing thread. I'm setting up a 75 that I'm going with C02 as well as a second below it. After doing 3 dual T8 fixtures and having 1 fail I decided not to reinvent the wheel. Took the 48" Marineland 1w LED fixture and the EA timer from my 150 AND a 36" Ray 2 and put it on the new 75. It wasnt enough for the 150. So i picked up an FSPEC and DHL for my 150 5" tank. Hopefully they give enough light in the corners being staggered. I may upgrade the 3 bulb T5 Catalina fixture on the other 75. I dont know if the spectrum is off becausr the bulbs are old or what.. 
I really appreciate this thread! I hope to get the first CO2 system ready to rock in 3 to 4 weeks.


----------



## DangerDonkey

DangerDonkey said:


> Thanks as well for this thread. After searching all over to figure out how much light is too much light and everybody's bro-aquarium science this thread packs everything that I ever questioned (including the overlapping LED's and how much light at the corner of the tanks).
> 
> I just bought the FSPEC and hopefully that will help improve my planting results.


So uh....update on this idea. Don't forget to crank co2....and take note that Clownplanted has a dimmer. My entire tank is brown AF with a massive diatom explosion. I've been trying to manage it since I got the new light....and have succumbed removed a light all together.


----------



## clownplanted

DangerDonkey said:


> So uh....update on this idea. Don't forget to crank co2....and take note that Clownplanted has a dimmer. My entire tank is brown AF with a massive diatom explosion. I've been trying to manage it since I got the new light....and have succumbed removed a light all together.




It is for sure a medium/high light and needs to be treated as such. Low tech unless you dim or raise it will cause algae with the amount of par. The $12 dimmer is a great solution for those that still want if they are running low tech and can later run full blast if they decide to go co2 down the road so you do not have to purchase another light. The par data I did will give you an idea how strong it is and can adjust accordingly. 

I did dim mine 50% with running just 15ppm co2 on my 20 gallon tankwhich should give you an idea how strong it is. On my 60 the beamswork dhl along with my finnex is running full blast which I am at 50ppm of co2. Remember if you get algae due to low tech there are ways as mentioned to fix accordingly. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## clownplanted

In case any of you were wondering why the original par data photos were dead well its because Photobucket has gotten greedy and now want to charge. Well I dropped them and am using imgur which is free so I just now finished fixing the links.


----------



## The Dude1

clownplanted said:


> In case any of you were wondering why the original par data photos were dead well its because Photobucket has gotten greedy and now want to charge. Well I dropped them and am using imgur which is free so I just now finished fixing the links.


They are charging now? Good ole American greed... guess I can close that account and delete that app. As their customer base plummets so will the revenue stream from ads..
I got my DHL and FSPEC fixture on my 150. The color and brightness is PERFECT! I'm hoping to get ferts here this week and CO2 shortly thereafter


----------



## ChrisX

The Dude1 said:


> They are charging now? Good ole American greed... guess I can close that account and delete that app. As their customer base plummets so will the revenue stream from ads..
> I got my DHL and FSPEC fixture on my 150. The color and brightness is PERFECT! I'm hoping to get ferts here this week and CO2 shortly thereafter



Looks like I'm a week ahead of you! Got my EI ferts today, CO2 hopefully next week.


----------



## Bonea

Any idea about Beamswork DA FSPEC 60CM/24inch PAR.


----------



## Glyphic

Reading is fundamental and I didn't read where I should buy a dimmer. I just ordered the dimmer mentioned in the OP from Amazon. Since I put the DHL 1W 6500k light on I've had an explosion of all sorts of algae. Some brown dust, gray/green hair algae, and some weird goo looking stuff that could be from some of my stem plants dying out. I just started dosing with Thrive this week and I think that has helped some, but I am going to dim the lights a bit now as well once the timer goes in and hopefully this will accelerate my growth a little better.


----------



## maldo3

*Thanks @clownplanted*

Thanks @clownplanted. Was on the fence concerning Beamswork. Heard +'s and -'s. After reading this thread. I pulled the plug. Mine to arrive Monday. Thanks everyone.


----------



## Felipe

I ran the DHL for about a year and just bought an FSPEC due to 3 blinking LEDs. Attached are photos of the DHL and FSPEC. Overall, the look of the FSPEC alone is my fav., but my 40G breeder requires two lights so I am running both. I will probably get a second FSPEC to replace the DHL. 

FSPEC:








DHL:


----------



## cadd

Glyphic said:


> Reading is fundamental and I didn't read where I should buy a dimmer. I just ordered the dimmer mentioned in the OP from Amazon. Since I put the DHL 1W 6500k light on I've had an explosion of all sorts of algae. Some brown dust, gray/green hair algae, and some weird goo looking stuff that could be from some of my stem plants dying out. I just started dosing with Thrive this week and I think that has helped some, but I am going to dim the lights a bit now as well once the timer goes in and hopefully this will accelerate my growth a little better.


Same here. I have the FSPEC and experienced a massive algae outbreak. I had it on for 8 hours initially. Now, it's only on for about 4 to 5 hours a day and the algae is more under control. But great light! No complaints except for the hot power supply. 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew

klinger988 said:


> Can you explain why the PAR is different based on the length of the light? The same model light but with different lengths at 12in is 100 vs 50s. Does the shorter light just pack more LEDs into a smaller space? I would have expected the amount of LEDs to be proportional to the length making the PAR at any point similar regardless of light length. Thanks!!


I'd be interested in hearing thoughts on this as well.


----------



## Glyphic

cadd said:


> Same here. I have the FSPEC and experienced a massive algae outbreak. I had it on for 8 hours initially. Now, it's only on for about 4 to 5 hours a day and the algae is more under control. But great light! No complaints except for the hot power supply.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


Once I started dosing Thrive, the outbreaks have actually stopped completely. I still have this weird brown/gray fuzz and some gray hair algae but no more explosions. I also don't have any algae eaters or cleanup crew at this time. I ordered the timer but I'm thinking I won't need to turn it down much unless things get worse again.


----------



## MasterofCloak

Is the par of the DHL 10000k similar to the 6500k? I'm not a huge fan of the yellow look. I was thinking about having 2 30" 10000k DHL's and 2 30" 6500k DHL's on my 120. Right now Amazon is having a coupon thing for the DHL lights so when you go to check out the price drops around 10 dollars which is crazy cheap. (I should probably make a separate post about this now). I was thinking about getting the FSPEC with the 6500k DHL's but the different housings for the leds will drive me crazy or should I only get the Fspec lights. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## MasterofCloak

Does the DA 0.5 Watt 6500k have similar par to the Fspec? 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## cadd

Finally got around to setting up the tank. For those wondering, here's what my light looks like.


----------



## clownplanted

cadd said:


> Finally got around to setting up the tank. For those wondering, here's what my light looks like.


That is an awesome scape. Good job.


----------



## milesm

cadd said:


> Finally got around to setting up the tank. For those wondering, here's what my light looks like.


what size tank is that? 55? did you have to shorten your photoperiod to avoid algae? i pm'ed you a few days ago with the same questions. thanks.


----------



## cadd

clownplanted said:


> That is an awesome scape. Good job.


Thank! I just can't any Corys or other bottom dwellers. They'll mix both substrates together for me. 



milesm said:


> what size tank is that? 55? did you have to shorten your photoperiod to avoid algae? i pm'ed you a few days ago with the same questions. thanks.


Hey! Oh man, I remember seeing a pm from someone, and told myself to reply....totally forgot! Sorry. Yes, I had a massive algae outbreak when I had the light on for 8 hours straight. 

Now, I only run the light 4 - 5 hours during the evening. 

Note: my tank is pretty close to a window as well. I leave the blinds open. So it gets tons of natural light during the day (but not direct sunlight). 



Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## milesm

cadd said:


> Thank! I just can't any Corys or other bottom dwellers. They'll mix both substrates together for me.
> 
> 
> Hey! Oh man, I remember seeing a pm from someone, and told myself to reply....totally forgot! Sorry. Yes, I had a massive algae outbreak when I had the light on for 8 hours straight.
> 
> Now, I only run the light 4 - 5 hours during the evening.
> 
> Note: my tank is pretty close to a window as well. I leave the blinds open. So it gets tons of natural light during the day (but not direct sunlight).
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


and what size tank is it on? thanks.


----------



## cadd

milesm said:


> and what size tank is it on? thanks.


Oh sorry. It's a 55g.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## maldo3

Very Nice, it pulls me in. I have this light on a 10g, for 2 weeks still tweaking the light schedule (some algae). I have been looking at doing something similar, trying to locate the thin slate you have. Maybe I'll get a ladder and take some from my roof. LOL


----------



## cadd

Lol. If you do that, it would be very very very expensive slate! 

I just got my roof done a few months ago. Asphalt roof. Cost me under $10k. My buddy had his slate roof done. Cost him over $25k!!!


----------



## Angella

I am reading so much about the FSPEC's and PAR values and lumens and I'm so lost somehow.

My tank is 150gal, dimensions 72 x 18 x 28. I want to do a low-mod light set up with Vals, anubias, java fern, java moss, amazon sword... stuff like that.
I have ordered *FOUR 30" Beamworks F-SPEC lights*. 
Gravel is 25" from surface, light is 3" above surface on a glass plate.
Is this enough light? Is this too much light? Tank won't be heavily stocked, I use seachem flourish and just ordered some seachem excel for a boost.

Thanks.... I'm clueless.


----------



## jeffkrol

Angella said:


> I am reading so much about the FSPEC's and PAR values and lumens and I'm so lost somehow.
> 
> My tank is 150gal, dimensions 72 x 18 x 28. I want to do a low-mod light set up with Vals, anubias, java fern, java moss, amazon sword... stuff like that.
> I have ordered *FOUR 30" Beamworks F-SPEC lights*.
> Gravel is 25" from surface, light is 3" above surface on a glass plate.
> Is this enough light? Is this too much light? Tank won't be heavily stocked, I use seachem flourish and just ordered some seachem excel for a boost.
> 
> Thanks.... I'm clueless.


@ 28" suspect you won't have to much light.. Too little will depend on plants..


----------



## Kampo

jeffkrol said:


> @ 28" suspect you won't have to much light.. Too little will depend on plants..


he might be ok for low light stuff with 4 of em assuming DA not EA. the trusty ole chart we used before for the pent light shows 36 at 24" and 17 at 36" so if you pic a number between the 2 of them say 25 which is prolly conservatively low and factor in 2 rows of lights I bet he averages 40 par at substrate. just a guess. but that should be good for lowtech.


----------



## Angella

jeffkrol said:


> @ 28" suspect you won't have to much light.. Too little will depend on plants..


Shew. I have a giant anubias I was kind of concerned it might kill but that makes me feel better.



Kampo said:


> he might be ok for low light stuff with 4 of em assuming DA not EA. the trusty ole chart we used before for the pent light shows 36 at 24" and 17 at 36" so if you pic a number between the 2 of them say 25 which is prolly conservatively low and factor in 2 rows of lights I bet he averages 40 par at substrate. just a guess. but that should be good for lowtech.


Yes I like that chart... I hope it is around 40 par at substrate.
See I am getting the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED PENT .5 W. So It's FSPEC but not EA, and it's PENT but not 6500k... it's 10000K. So that's part of why I'm confused.

I just want it to not kill my anubias/val/java fern/java moss, and also not produce a ton of algae/bloom in two days.




Really I'm just assured that you both aren't saying I'm crazy for having 4 of them, even though they are only 30" it seemed like a lot.


----------



## Kampo

Angella said:


> Shew. I have a giant anubias I was kind of concerned it might kill but that makes me feel better.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes I like that chart... I hope it is around 40 par at substrate.
> See I am getting the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED PENT .5 W. So It's FSPEC but not EA, and it's PENT but not 6500k... it's 10000K. So that's part of why I'm confused.
> 
> I just want it to not kill my anubias/val/java fern/java moss, and also not produce a ton of algae/bloom in two days.
> 
> 
> that said a little curious why you just didn't get 2 72in DA Fspec lights. would of seemed a cleaner way to go.
> 
> 
> 
> Really I'm just assured that you both aren't saying I'm crazy for having 4 of them, even though they are only 30" it seemed like a lot.


deep tanks take a lot to light. to give you an idea. I have a 120gallon that is gonig lowtech. (60x18x27) so simlar issues your dealing with. i went with the Beamswork 48in quad light. I run it at 75% currently with another 30watts of RGB led strips added to it. which is over 200 watts vs the 160 you just bought. and I still am firmly in lowtech land light wise. I could prolly crank it up to 100% and get into a range c02 would make sence though.


----------



## Angella

Kampo said:


> deep tanks take a lot to light. to give you an idea. I have a 120gallon that is gonig lowtech. (60x18x27) so simlar issues your dealing with. i went with the Beamswork 48in quad light. I run it at 75% currently with another 30watts of RGB led strips added to it. which is over 200 watts vs the 160 you just bought. and I still am firmly in lowtech land light wise. I could prolly crank it up to 100% and get into a range c02 would make sence though.


Mmmmm that is good to know. I feel way better about mine now. Once I get them I'll just put them on and see what happens, maybe have everything on a 5 hour timer at first because I really don't want to get an algae bloom.
I use Seachem Flourish, and I have Excel on the way... I was thinking about getting Seachem Trace.

My Java ferns used to be a huge mat that was constantly making and sending off babies (back in my 55 gal) and I'm not sure what I did but they eventually seemed to just "choke up" and slowly die off. Now I just have one java fern plant.

Thank you so much!


----------



## Kampo

Angella said:


> Mmmmm that is good to know. I feel way better about mine now. Once I get them I'll just put them on and see what happens, maybe have everything on a 5 hour timer at first because I really don't want to get an algae bloom.
> I use Seachem Flourish, and I have Excel on the way... I was thinking about getting Seachem Trace.
> 
> My Java ferns used to be a huge mat that was constantly making and sending off babies (back in my 55 gal) and I'm not sure what I did but they eventually seemed to just "choke up" and slowly die off. Now I just have one java fern plant.
> 
> Thank you so much!


on a big tank your'll go broke with seachem products. way to diluted. look into one of the pump bottles at the least. much more concentrated. NilocG makes a good one. Aquarium Co-Op I heard does a good one. NilocG also makes a easy to dose version of excel.


----------



## meeekael

Hi team.

Just wondering what you all think would suit my tank.

It is a 48" Juwel Rio 240l (65 gal ) 48w x 16d x 21 tall

I will be running CO2, and EI so am after medium/high lighting.

I'm tossing up what light or lights I need. Whether I go for the 1W DHL + a FPSPEC or 2x 1W DHL or 1x EVO Quad or 1x 1W DHL.

What do you think?

My current tank is a 7.5 gal (approx 8 inch deep) running CO2 and loose EI with a Finnex Planted Plus - thats about the equivalent level of lighting I'm after for my big tank.

Thanks!


----------



## clownplanted

Two of either the Beamswork DHL's or FSPEC's would get you in the high light for that height. I say that because if you look at the par data that I got at about 20" height with a single DHL you are at 60 par so two of them would put you at about 120. If you were to go one DHL and one FSPEC that still puts you over 100. So either way thats very good light for co2. I run a Finnex 24/7 with the DHL and get awesome plant growth with about 50ppm co2. A single DHL is still pretty good at 60 par but keep in mind corners of the tank would be less. Why I recommend to have two lights for not only double par but light spread.


----------



## jlau28

I literally just got home after a week long vacation after throwing on 2 DHLs in my 40B. Came home to a jungle and explosion of GDA while everything else is pearling like it's going out of style.


----------



## clownplanted

jlau28 said:


> I literally just got home after a week long vacation after throwing on 2 DHLs in my 40B. Came home to a jungle and explosion of GDA while everything else is pearling like it's going out of style.


Yeah with two you need good co2 and ferts.


----------



## jlau28

I do actually, CO2 2 hours on prior to lights then 8 hrs of light, gonna dial back the light a little. Also dosing with Thrive every other day as well


----------



## Angella

Kampo said:


> on a big tank your'll go broke with seachem products. way to diluted. look into one of the pump bottles at the least. much more concentrated. NilocG makes a good one. Aquarium Co-Op I heard does a good one. NilocG also makes a easy to dose version of excel.



Ah, thank you I'll start looking those up.... so complicated to know which stuff I need to add :icon_neut
Might need to look for some test kits or bring my water to an agriculture building in town?


----------



## chanathon

I have a 72" long, 32" deep tank and thinking of switching over to an LED option. Right now i'm running a 48" 4 bulb t5ho set up but would the DA FSPEC work for my application? Looking at the par ratings I'm not quite sure I'd be able to get by with easy low light plants at this depth. ALso not sure if 2 36" fixtures would be better than a single 72". I'm not looking to does CO2 but not opposed to starting ferts. Any inputs?


----------



## MasterofCloak

chanathon said:


> I have a 72" long, 32" deep tank and thinking of switching over to an LED option. Right now i'm running a 48" 4 bulb t5ho set up but would the DA FSPEC work for my application? Looking at the par ratings I'm not quite sure I'd be able to get by with easy low light plants at this depth. ALso not sure if 2 36" fixtures would be better than a single 72". I'm not looking to does CO2 but not opposed to starting ferts. Any inputs?




Two to Four 36" should be good. The 72 will bow in the middle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## varanidguy

Hey all! I've been lurking for a while now, but this thread was so interesting, I decided to make an account just to be able to ask a question.

I have set up a 40 gallon breeder size tank (36" wide, 18" deep, 18" tall). I want to grow some low-med lights (amazon sword, anubias, java fern, temple plants, anacharis, etc). I have no intention of going CO2 right now, as the cost and maintenance seem to be higher than what I'm willing to go with. That being said, would the DA FSPEC fit my tank's plant growing needs? Providing it's not a massive explosion, wouldn't my bristlenose pleco and nerite snails be able to hande a bit of a growth?

Either way, thank you so much for this thread, it has really...enlightened me. ;-)


----------



## negen

varanidguy said:


> Hey all! I've been lurking for a while now, but this thread was so interesting, I decided to make an account just to be able to ask a question.
> 
> I have set up a 40 gallon breeder size tank (36" wide, 18" deep, 18" tall). I want to grow some low-med lights (amazon sword, anubias, java fern, temple plants, anacharis, etc). I have no intention of going CO2 right now, as the cost and maintenance seem to be higher than what I'm willing to go with. That being said, would the DA FSPEC fit my tank's plant growing needs? Providing it's not a massive explosion, wouldn't my bristlenose pleco and nerite snails be able to hande a bit of a growth?
> 
> Either way, thank you so much for this thread, it has really...enlightened me. ;-)


on my 40b tank I went with two lights one didn't seem like much light I didn't test par yet though. I used a da fspec 10000k and a dhl 6500k looks nice enough but if your going with a single light then the dhl 6500k would be my suggestion. Want want to make some DYI risers out of plexi glass if using the DHL light. The DA fpsec is a 10000k light so it looks a bit blueish but if mixed with a 6500k light looks great.


----------



## varanidguy

negen said:


> on my 40b tank I went with two lights one didn't seem like much light I didn't test par yet though. I used a da fspec 10000k and a dhl 6500k looks nice enough but if your going with a single light then the dhl 6500k would be my suggestion. Want want to make some DYI risers out of plexi glass if using the DHL light. The DA fpsec is a 10000k light so it looks a bit blueish but if mixed with a 6500k light looks great.




Thanks for the reply! My fear with two lights, especially with the PAR that is listed here, would be that I would have too much light and get uncontrollable algae growth without CO2 injection.

My tank is a dark, high contrast setup, so I actually like the idea of having a little more blue show up in the light. It could make the rams and neon tetras really pop.


----------



## negen

I will try to get some pictures later today or this week so you can see what it looks like with the da fspec 10000k and the dhl 6500k and with both. I will be adding plants tonight sometime and give you a comparison. Will be starting a tank log soon to I will link as well. The da fpsec is a bit nicer light in that it seems a bit more refined and does have a bit taller feet so centering it would be easier.


----------



## varanidguy

negen said:


> I will try to get some pictures later today or this week so you can see what it looks like with the da fspec 10000k and the dhl 6500k and with both. I will be adding plants tonight sometime and give you a comparison. Will be starting a tank log soon to I will link as well. The da fpsec is a bit nicer light in that it seems a bit more refined and does have a bit taller feet so centering it would be easier.




How are your algae levels running both? How long do you leave them on for?


----------



## cadd

I know I posted photos of the DA FSPEC before, but here's a video for more of a "real time" look of how it'll light up the tank. 

https://youtu.be/MeNhxi9PeCU

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## herns

This is a good light with great price. 
I wish they can produce model without moon/ blue light.


----------



## varanidguy

cadd said:


> I know I posted photos of the DA FSPEC before, but here's a video for more of a "real time" look of how it'll light up the tank.
> 
> https://youtu.be/MeNhxi9PeCU
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk




That looks fantastic! If it can grow low to medium light plants it's a no brainer!


----------



## Letsfish

I am thinking of setting up a 90 gallon for low to medium light plants.The Beamworks 48" DA 120 6500K seems like a good deal on Amazon $60.Would I need 1 or 2 of these? Most likely I will dose with a macro/Mico fert and excel twice a week.


----------



## MasterofCloak

Try 1 but since your tank is wide you may need another. Just start with one and see if you get good results. You can always add another. 


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----------



## negen

Here is what mine look like on a 40b. 

Mind you the outside of the tank is dirty. I planted a few plants a couple days ago this is my first aquarium. Just showing the lights on a 40B tank don't mind the ugly/bareness of it. 


both










da fspec only 










dhl 6500k


----------



## cadd

That looks awesome! Wow, when you have side by side photos, it really shows how much more cooler the DA FSPEC is compared to the warmer DHL 6500

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## varanidguy

negen said:


> Here is what mine look like on a 40b.
> 
> 
> 
> Mind you the outside of the tank is dirty. I planted a few plants a couple days ago this is my first aquarium. Just showing the lights on a 40B tank don't mind the ugly/bareness of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> da fspec only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dhl 6500k




This is phenomenal! Thank you for the pictures. It solidifies the decision to go with the DA FSPEC. I think it'll show off the blues and reds of the fish a lot better.


----------



## 300Black

Starting a 120 tank (24x24x48) and have three of the dhl 6500k to put on it, would that be enough for high light or should I add a 4th?


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew

herns said:


> This is a good light with great price.
> I wish they can produce model without moon/ blue light.


You can get just the white lights to come on with their timer. IMO, they look like crap with out the blue to balance. Very yellow.


----------



## varanidguy

Well the light came in today and what a difference!!! Both pictures were taken with all the lights in the room turned off and blackout curtains closed. Went with the DA FSPEC. If this light withstands the test of time, it's unbelievable for $56.

A little before and after!


----------



## tkblazer

For the fspec users, does your light have these grooves for a beamswork hanging kit?


----------



## varanidguy

tkblazer said:


> For the fspec users, does your light have these grooves for a beamswork hanging kit?




No! I don’t think mine does. I’ll check to make sure when I get home.


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## cadd

I'm pretty sure my FSPEC doesn't have them either. But I'll double check tonight. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## tkblazer

Awesome thanks! I’ve taken a look at some pictures on amazon and it kind of looks like the grooves are there but the end cap does not have the grooves. I figured I could just remove an end cap and slide the brackets in. Worse comes to worse I can make a hanging setup for it


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## varanidguy

ahttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171101/430063084b6f97dc2af9d5128320d893.jpg[/IM]

Mine actually has the grooves! Groovy


----------



## tkblazer

Lol sweet thanks! Hopefully it works out!


----------



## cadd

Yup, just checked mine. It has the grooves as well. I've never noticed them before!


----------



## cadd

Alright! Gonna pull the trigger and purchase the 18" model for a 10 gal shrimp tank that I'll be putting together. I've been happy with the 48" model that I've been using for the 55 gal tank for the past few months. The only concern I have/had is that the power supply gets warmer than I like. But the heat it gives out doesn't seem to have any effect on its performance.


----------



## varanidguy

cadd said:


> Alright! Gonna pull the trigger and purchase the 18" model for a 10 gal shrimp tank that I'll be putting together. I've been happy with the 48" model that I've been using for the 55 gal tank for the past few months. The only concern I have/had is that the power supply gets warmer than I like. But the heat it gives out doesn't seem to have any effect on its performance.




Are you planning on adding co2? I only ask because it seems the more compact versions of these lights put out a lot more PAR and PUR.


----------



## varanidguy

negen said:


> Here is what mine look like on a 40b.
> 
> 
> 
> Mind you the outside of the tank is dirty. I planted a few plants a couple days ago this is my first aquarium. Just showing the lights on a 40B tank don't mind the ugly/bareness of it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> both
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> da fspec only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> dhl 6500k




How is this tank doing? Are you running pressurized co2?


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## cadd

varanidguy said:


> Are you planning on adding co2? I only ask because it seems the more compact versions of these lights put out a lot more PAR and PUR.


That was something that worried me actually. I don't plan on using co2. My current 48" light is pretty darn powerful. I can only turn it on for 5 hours a day. If not, I'll have an algae outbreak. And it's not the nice green kind of algae either. It's brown/black algae that covers the plants.

For this 10 gal tank, I was really debating on the EA vs DA model. I figured the weaker EA model would be enough for my needs. But at the end of the day, I opted for the DA just because of familiarity.

If algae becomes too much of an issue, I'll probably put a diffuser on the glass to see if it'll help.


----------



## negen

varanidguy said:


> How is this tank doing? Are you running pressurized co2?


Not sure why you quoted me asking about pressurized co2 when you posted in my tank journal where I showed you my co2 tank and regulator. I think maybe you meant to quote someone else?.. If you did mean to quote me maybe you forgot but yes I do have a pressurized tank. Also the tank is doing ok. I moved houses and tank crashed a bit but is recovering but now that I have a permanent residence I can spend more time caring for the tank once I get things settled. Probably should post further inquires and discussions in my tank journal if you care to discuss it so we do not clog this thread up more.


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## radian23

This is what the top of my DA FSPEC looks like.


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## Rogozhin75

radian23 said:


> This is what the top of my DA FSPEC looks like.


Yep, that's what I have. It's a great light.


----------



## cadd

Opps....looks like they sent me the wrong light. I ordered the DA FSPEC, but they sent me the EA FSPEC. It's still a good light, but just not as bright as I expected. I contacted the seller (topdogsellers)on Amazon. I'm sure it was an honest mistake..

Here are some photos of the EA FSPEC for those interested (sorry about the blurry photos).


----------



## varanidguy

cadd said:


> Opps....looks like they sent me the wrong light. I ordered the DA FSPEC, but they sent me the EA FSPEC. It's still a good light, but just not as bright as I expected. I contacted the seller (topdogsellers)on Amazon. I'm sure it was an honest mistake.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some photos of the EA FSPEC for those interested (sorry about the blurry photos).




I think it still looks nice but I agree that the brightness of the DA FSPEC may look nicer. Especially since you have some floaters.


----------



## Rogozhin75

Dang, those picture aren't working.


----------



## cadd

The links are broken for some reason. I'll see if I can fix it tonight for ya. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## varanidguy

cadd said:


> The links are broken for some reason. I'll see if I can fix it tonight for ya.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk




So what’s going on with the light they sent by mistake? Are they making you send it back or are they just going to send you the proper DA light?


----------



## cadd

varanidguy said:


> So what’s going on with the light they sent by mistake? Are they making you send it back or are they just going to send you the proper DA light?


They provided me with a return label to send the light back for a refund. I'll then have to place the order again. And hopefully the correct light will be sent out to me. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


----------



## cadd

I can't seem to edit my previous post for some reason. Testing the links to the photos. Hopefully they work now.


----------



## cadd

Since the links of my previous posts of the 48" DA FSPEC is broken, here's are updated photos. For those interested in both the DA and EA lights, here's a comparison. The 48" DA in the 55g vs the 18" EA in the 10g. I can tell the difference right away just from the light bouncing off the walls of each tank.


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## tkblazer

radian23 said:


> This is what the top of my DA FSPEC looks like.


Thanks for posting this! I already have the light and can confirm the grooves are there on the fspec, but they do not work with the older style hanging mounts that work on the old pent lights.


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## FlyingShawn

cadd said:


> That was something that worried me actually. I don't plan on using co2. My current 48" light is pretty darn powerful. I can only turn it on for 5 hours a day. If not, I'll have an algae outbreak. And it's not the nice green kind of algae either. It's brown/black algae that covers the plants.
> 
> For this 10 gal tank, I was really debating on the EA vs DA model. I figured the weaker EA model would be enough for my needs. But at the end of the day, I opted for the DA just because of familiarity.
> 
> If algae becomes too much of an issue, I'll probably put a diffuser on the glass to see if it'll help.


Thanks for sharing your experiences with this light! I'm looking at the 48" DA FSPEC for my low-tech 52gal flat-back hex (standard 55gal with two angled corners) and to span my 20H+20H quarantine shelf. Are you running it with a glass lid on the larger tank? Have you tried dialing it back with a dimmer (like the Current USA model clownplanted mentioned) so you can run a longer photoperiod? 

More generally, have any of you compared the brightness/color of these DA FSPECs against the original Finnex Planted+ (non 24/7 or 24/7 SE) lights? I have a Planted+ on one of my 10gal tanks and really like the color (7000k+660nm), but I can't find any accurate PAR data or comparison photos to use as a reference point when considering other lights like these Beamsworks. Thanks!


----------



## jeffkrol

On to the semi-subjective subject of color..
almost every different model of LED has a unique look..and barring those that are multi-channel and color tuneable I really can't think
of one that looks a LOT like another..Some should or may to others but really aren't..

A Beamswork 6500k model should look close to the planted plus since.. effectively the planted plus (w/out blues on) "should" reach around 6500k light..
Unfortunately adding 660nm to high k whites is not usually equal to 6500k white emitters unless one designs the 6500k ones that way. Few do..

You could buy some Halos or a Current plus pro or current plus and emulate it easily enough but still not be quite the same (660nm red is not "red"..)

Playing w/ this and just using generic diodes will tell the story..
http://spectra.1023world.net/


In-between brands or in between models.. 

If you really really really like that tone there is no choice but another planted plus or a much more expensive color tune-able fixture..

Just for fun I generated some CRI comps..
Most 7000 or 6500k will usually not "score" this high but for fun.
It may look like subtle differences (except the FSPEC which has an overall k quite north of 7000k) but on a side by side you will notice..









NOTE planted plus w/out blue...More blue the "worse" it gets..


----------



## FlyingShawn

jeffkrol said:


> On to the semi-subjective subject of color..
> almost every different model of LED has a unique look..and barring those that are multi-channel and color tuneable I really can't think
> of one that looks a LOT like another..Some should or may to others but really aren't..
> 
> A Beamswork 6500k model should look close to the planted plus since.. effectively the planted plus (w/out blues on) "should" reach around 6500k light..
> Unfortunately adding 660nm to high k whites is not usually equal to 6500k white emitters unless one designs the 6500k ones that way. Few do..


[snip]


jeffkrol said:


> If you really really really like that tone there is no choice but another planted plus or a much more expensive color tune-able fixture..


Thanks for that chart! I've looked high and low and never found one that included the original Planted+ before! I feel like I should have a LOT more algae than I do considering how high those numbers are, but then again those readings are lid-less and water-less (or maybe my split photoperiod is helping more than I thought!).

I should also clarify: when I say I "really like" the colors I get from Finnex, I don't mean that I feel a need to find an exact match for it, just that it's my favorite of the lights I've had so far both in how it shows the colors in my tanks and in general "warmth" since everyone has a different preference on warmer vs cooler lights (coming from a background of T5s and CFLs). I suspect that it falls colorwise somewhere between the DHL and FSPEC lights in this thread, so I was merely hoping someone might be able to offer a general opinion like "it's not a huge difference from ____" or "it's closer to the DHL in warmth and closer to the FSPEC in showing colors."

Haha, you keep editing while I'm typing! Fascinating... those rough CRI approximations are quite different than I was expecting; I would have expected the FSPEC to score higher on CRI than the DHL after all the comments and pictures praising it in this thread. I'm still inclined to think that the DHL would be too warm for my tastes based on these pictures, so hopefully the FSPEC/Planted+ difference won't be significant enough to be distracting since the 10gal and 20H+20H tanks will be near each other. Thanks again!


----------



## varanidguy

This brings up a question for me...how much do glass lids generally affect PAR/PUR? I'm assuming glass clarity has something to do with it (no/low iron content, medium, and standard/high iron content, acrylic, etc), but how much of a real world different should it make?


----------



## cadd

FlyingShawn said:


> Thanks for sharing your experiences with this light! I'm looking at the 48" DA FSPEC for my low-tech 52gal flat-back hex (standard 55gal with two angled corners) and to span my 20H+20H quarantine shelf. Are you running it with a glass lid on the larger tank? Have you tried dialing it back with a dimmer (like the Current USA model clownplanted mentioned) so you can run a longer photoperiod?
> 
> More generally, have any of you compared the brightness/color of these DA FSPECs against the original Finnex Planted+ (non 24/7 or 24/7 SE) lights? I have a Planted+ on one of my 10gal tanks and really like the color (7000k+660nm), but I can't find any accurate PAR data or comparison photos to use as a reference point when considering other lights like these Beamsworks. Thanks!


I do have a glass lid on the larger tank. It's pretty dirty as well. I do not have the dimmer. I'm ok with running a shorter photo period (for now). I think if I decide I want to run the light longer in the future, I'll see if I can grab a piece of plastic or something to lay on top of the glass top to use it as a diffuser.

Unfortunately, I do not have any experience with Finnex lights and can't help you there. Good luck with your research! Post photos of your tank with whichever light you decide to go with =)


----------



## jeffkrol

varanidguy said:


> This brings up a question for me...how much do glass lids generally affect PAR/PUR? I'm assuming glass clarity has something to do with it (no/low iron content, medium, and standard/high iron content, acrylic, etc), but how much of a real world different should it make?


Ignoring extremes .. like years of algae/mineral salt buildup...10% even w/ "dirty" glass..Slightly higher than the below study.
The 10% is based on circumstantial evidence (memory of others.. )using LEds.
Below was purely tubes.. 

https://www.thekrib.com/Lights/lights-wozniak.html



> I should also clarify: when I say I "really like" the colors I get from Finnex, I don't mean that I feel a need to find an exact match for it, just that it's my favorite of the lights I've had so far both in how it shows the colors in my tanks and in general "warmth" since everyone has a different preference on warmer vs cooler lights


Thats quite true. I have the old small Fugeray R. (clip on version of planted plus w/ no blue diodes). 
It is "cooler" than almost any of the other lights I've played w/ with the exception of multi-channel DIY's...
the diode color choice is "under-appreciated", which is why I was commenting on it for you..
most of the lights mentioned will be quite cool or warm or flat in comparison..
Keep in mind none are "bad".. just different..

Also keep in mind that I certainly haven't owned every one of the before mentioned lights and am only going off spectral data and internet images.. 

Like this:









Keep in mind CRI has little to do w/ plant growth and is just a human centric element..


----------



## varanidguy

jeffkrol said:


> Ignoring extremes .. like years of algae/mineral salt buildup...10% even w/ "dirty" glass..Slightly higher than the below study.
> The 10% is based on circumstantial evidence (memory of others.. )using LEds.
> Below was purely tubes..
> 
> https://www.thekrib.com/Lights/lights-wozniak.html




Oh wow that’s not bad at all. So say no glass you’d be getting about 50 par at the substrate, so given this estimate, you’d be reduced to 45. Not bad at all.


----------



## pucksr

So, I need to ask all of you beamswork owners. 
I bought a Beamswork DA FSPEC Pent for my 55 gallon(22" to substrate), and I am pretty underwhelmed. 

My old DIY LEDs seemed way brighter. 
Also, I am seeing very little growth. Maybe some near the surface for some tall Rotala Singapore, but not much else.
My "Monte Carlo" is stagnant since the change. 
My S. Repens has basically just stopped growing.(I trimmed it right before the new light)

I havent been using ferts/CO2(as I took those to work for my work tank), but I also haven't had ANY algae or similar. 

Did I get a dud light? Am I expecting too much?


----------



## jeffkrol

pucksr said:


> So, I need to ask all of you beamswork owners.
> I bought a Beamswork DA FSPEC Pent for my 55 gallon(22" to substrate), and I am pretty underwhelmed.
> 
> My old DIY LEDs seemed way brighter.
> Also, I am seeing very little growth. Maybe some near the surface for some tall Rotala Singapore, but not much else.
> My "Monte Carlo" is stagnant since the change.
> My S. Repens has basically just stopped growing.(I trimmed it right before the new light)
> 
> I havent been using ferts/CO2(as I took those to work for my work tank), but I also haven't had ANY algae or similar.
> 
> Did I get a dud light? Am I expecting too much?


What was your last light?
PAR of the FSpec at 22" is around 40.............

So you cut out ferts and CO2 and think it's the lights???


----------



## pucksr

jeffkrol said:


> What was your last light?
> PAR of the FSpec at 22" is around 40.............


DIY LED with 24 CREE XP-Gs at 700mA(no optics)




> So you cut out ferts and CO2 and think it's the lights???


No, I am not that silly.
I haven't used ferts or CO2 in about 6 months.
So, I went from "no ferts or CO2" to "no ferts or CO2".

The only reason I mentioned the lack of ferts or CO2 is because of the lack of algae. Other people are describing that they are getting algae growth, green water, etc with these lights.
I have no similar issue.


----------



## cadd

Can you post a photo of your tank/light? I have a 48" DA FSPEC as well. If I leave it on for more than 6hrs a day, I start seeing algae growth.


----------



## jeffkrol

pucksr said:


> DIY LED with 24 CREE XP-Gs at 700mA(no optics)
> 
> 
> 
> No, I am not that silly.
> I haven't used ferts or CO2 in about 6 months.
> So, I went from "no ferts or CO2" to "no ferts or CO2".
> 
> The only reason I mentioned the lack of ferts or CO2 is because of the lack of algae. Other people are describing that they are getting algae growth, green water, etc with these lights.
> I have no similar issue.


Crap.. need to adjust this..

OK.. back at it..
Between the CREE's and the fSpec your lumen output is probably fairly similar...though your old light could be stronger 20% (on average) depending on bin.
actually could be less but doubt if the Fpec is exactly accurate either (close)..

Best CREE bins would be like 6500 lumens for the 24 chips..
48" FSpec is listed at 5200 lumens..

Point is I don't see the fpec as an upgrade exactly..


----------



## pucksr

jeffkrol said:


> to do a rough comparison is difficult but here goes:
> 24 CREE XP-g run at 700mA can output between 126 and 288 Lumens per watt minimum.. At 700mA you have a V(f) of 3.1v 2.17W each
> 6526 Lumens (126 x 2.17x 24)
> 
> 48" fspec is at best 5200 20% less than CREE "minimum" output..............
> IN all likelihood your CREE fixture pushed 10000 lumens on average (2x the output of the fspec rounded)......unless you got the sucky chips I used the init. calculations above
> THE BEST bins can push 14000 lumens at 700mA minimum, 24 chips..
> 
> just add another fspec..


I appreciate the "back of the envelope" math.
I figured this light would be a bit less, but I also figured it would be enough to grow most low-medium light plants.

I bought this because I was having some problems getting a "clean look" with a new hood. However, if I have to put two FSPEC to get back to my old level of lighting, I could just put my old lights back up.


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## jeffkrol

pucksr said:


> I appreciate the "back of the envelope" math.
> I figured this light would be a bit less, but I also figured it would be enough to grow most low-medium light plants.
> 
> I bought this because I was having some problems getting a "clean look" with a new hood. However, if I have to put two FSPEC to get back to my old level of lighting, I could just put my old lights back up.


note I updated the math.. thought they rated the chips at L/w but not....
so all the old numbers needed to be divided by 2.15 to get back to /chip..

Changes in spectrum can "disrupt" plants for a short time while they re-adjust.......

w/out proper measurements it is hard to say how much brighter your old light is.. 
Obviously you see a difference..
most don't have problems w/ low/med plants but most will be upgrading (or only decent light they have seen in awhile ) not downgrading..


----------



## pucksr

jeffkrol said:


> w/out proper measurements it is hard to say how much brighter your old light is..
> Obviously you see a difference..
> most don't have problems w/ low/med plants but most will be upgrading (or only decent light they have seen in awhile ) not downgrading..


I had gone with the new fixture for simplicity,after I replaced my old hood. However, I think you just talked me into returning it and using my old DIY light

Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


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## varanidguy

I use the 36 inch DA FSPEC on a 40 breeder and have been battling GSA. Reduced photoperiod by an hour and started an Excel regimen, it seems to have stopped but it's not really going away either. Phosphorus last water change was at 0.5 ppm, but before that it was squarely 2-3 ppm...now I'm going to try to do two water changes a week instead of one and increasing ferts a bit. S. repens is growing well, nice and bushy, without CO2 injection, and most plants are growing fine (there is an Ozelot sword with decent roots that isn't growing at all, though). I'm sorry your experience has been so lousy, that's so weird.


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## jeffkrol

pucksr said:


> I had gone with the new fixture for simplicity,after I replaced my old hood. However, I think you just talked me into returning it and using my old DIY light
> 
> Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk


not a bad plan.. IF you need even more light, upgrade driver to 1A............(rated to 1500mA)
Out of curiosity, what color temp(s) did you use?
That gets you to 250% of "base" lumens
W/ the high K ones you are talking 122-139 x 2.5 x 24........
7800 Lumens..
132L/watt

The Fspec chips are probably rated 100L/watt..

Bump:


varanidguy said:


> I'm sorry your experience has been so lousy, that's so weird.


somewhat an odd situation. Pretty sure he slightly "downgraded" output on a deeper tank w/ some plants requiring either more light or more CO2 to compensate..


----------



## Glyphic

Question, I am upgrading my 29G to a 75G. I have the DHL 6500k 30" light, if I bought another 30"DHL would that be sufficient for low tech?? If it is too much light that wouldn't be a problem as I already use the dimmer for my 29G.

Thanks!


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## clownplanted

Glyphic said:


> Question, I am upgrading my 29G to a 75G. I have the DHL 6500k 30" light, if I bought another 30"DHL would that be sufficient for low tech?? If it is too much light that wouldn't be a problem as I already use the dimmer for my 29G.
> 
> Thanks!


Would be fine since its shorter than full length. A second light would be good in the fact you would get better over all coverage. I would stagger if possible to get light in all corners if possible.


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## Vinylmation

Is the DA FSPEC Pent Waterproof/resistant?

I want to set up a 29 gallon puffer tank.

Wondering if i can go topless or use egg crate and sit the lights on top.

Or if its not waterproof/resistant should I use a glass canopy for protection.


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## varanidguy

Vinylmation said:


> Is the DA FSPEC Pent Waterproof/resistant?




Well, they have a shield. I leave mine on the tank when I do water changes and some drops “spray” onto it without any harm.


----------



## clownplanted

Vinylmation said:


> Is the DA FSPEC Pent Waterproof/resistant?
> 
> I want to set up a 29 gallon puffer tank.
> 
> Wondering if i can go topless or use egg crate and sit the lights on top.
> 
> Or if its not waterproof/resistant should I use a glass canopy for protection.


Yeah they are water resistant with the cover they have on them. Mine have gotten splashed on many times with no issues. In fact I wipe off the cover every couple weeks to ensure the light has best penetration through the cover. I really like the Beamswork lights.


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## underH20garden

I just sat here and read the 15 pages of this thread...

ok here what I got from it.
for my 40br I would need two lights to get the spread. I could possibly start with one DA fspec then get another down the road. tank will focus on moss covered driftwood with a nice carpet and other med lights plants. hope to go with Co2 

I was gonna go with the finnex 24/7 CC but after this thread the beamswork made there way on the short list.
2 beamswork + there controllers will be the same $$ as 1 finnex 27/7CC 
thus giving me more par and spread over the tank. but also tanking up more real estate above the tank.

am I understanding this correct?


----------



## clownplanted

underH20garden said:


> I just sat here and read the 15 pages of this thread...
> 
> ok here what I got from it.
> for my 40br I would need two lights to get the spread. I could possibly start with one DA fspec then get another down the road. tank will focus on moss covered driftwood with a nice carpet and other med lights plants. hope to go with Co2
> 
> I was gonna go with the finnex 24/7 CC but after this thread the beamswork made there way on the short list.
> 2 beamswork + there controllers will be the same $$ as 1 finnex 27/7CC
> thus giving me more par and spread over the tank. but also tanking up more real estate above the tank.
> 
> am I understanding this correct?


With 16" or less from substrate to light one will more than suffice. Especially with no co2. With co2 two should be fine but with no co2 you will most definitely see all kinds of algae. You are talking about more than 100 par at that depth with two of them. WAY too much light for low tech. The PAR of a single DAFSPEC is very close to the par of a single Finnex 24/7. I have both lights.


----------



## varanidguy

underH20garden said:


> I just sat here and read the 15 pages of this thread...
> 
> 
> 
> ok here what I got from it.
> 
> for my 40br I would need two lights to get the spread. I could possibly start with one DA fspec then get another down the road. tank will focus on moss covered driftwood with a nice carpet and other med lights plants. hope to go with Co2
> 
> 
> 
> I was gonna go with the finnex 24/7 CC but after this thread the beamswork made there way on the short list.
> 
> 2 beamswork + there controllers will be the same $$ as 1 finnex 27/7CC
> 
> thus giving me more par and spread over the tank. but also tanking up more real estate above the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> am I understanding this correct?




I have one DA FSPEC on my 40 breeder and I’m likely going to set up co2 in the near future because even with one, it’s a little too much without co2 in my tank. I have GSA that won’t go away, despite having phosphates and lowering the photoperiod.


----------



## Glyphic

varanidguy said:


> I have one DA FSPEC on my 40 breeder and I’m likely going to set up co2 in the near future because even with one, it’s a little too much without co2 in my tank. I have GSA that won’t go away, despite having phosphates and lowering the photoperiod.


I have the DHL, I had to use the dimmer. Otherwise it spawned all sorts of algae.


----------



## clownplanted

varanidguy said:


> I have one DA FSPEC on my 40 breeder and I’m likely going to set up co2 in the near future because even with one, it’s a little too much without co2 in my tank. I have GSA that won’t go away, despite having phosphates and lowering the photoperiod.


All of my non co2 tanks with the DHL and FSPEC lights I had to get and use the dimmer I mentioned in the first post. Otherwise algae does and will take hold. I dim about 50% and get almost no algae. On full blast without the dimmer algae spreads like a wildfire. That $10 dimmer is a lifesaver.


----------



## varanidguy

clownplanted said:


> All of my non co2 tanks with the DHL and FSPEC lights I had to get and use the dimmer I mentioned in the first post. Otherwise algae does and will take hold. I dim about 50% and get almost no algae. On full blast without the dimmer algae spreads like a wildfire. That $10 dimmer is a lifesaver.




Have you used co2 in conjunction with these lights? I was thinking about using an in-line reactor and running co2 at 1 bps to start. Does using the dimmer reduce visible light by a whole lot?


----------



## clownplanted

varanidguy said:


> Have you used co2 in conjunction with these lights? I was thinking about using an in-line reactor and running co2 at 1 bps to start. Does using the dimmer reduce visible light by a whole lot?


Yes my main tank has co2 and I have used both the FSPEC and DHL with my Finnex on my 60 gallon tank with co2. Ended up moving the 48" DHL to my two shrimp tanks(The single 48" over two 10 gallons dimmed 50%). So now my 60 gallon has the Finnex 24/7 with the FSPEC running about 40ppm co2. The FSPEC is running full on this tank.

The dimmer depending on how much you dim does reduce some visible light but for me not enough to dislike.


----------



## underH20garden

ok thanks guys! I think I will start with 1 unit with a dimmer then when I go Co2 I can blash it 100% then if it not do the job can get another.

sure saves a tons of $$ from 2 AI prime HD not that I was gonna do that might have if one would have done the trick.


----------



## cadd

I don't think I've ever posted updated photos of the DA FSPEC lights. When I ordered the DA FSPEC for my 10g tank in November, I was sent the EA FSPEC instead. Got that sorted out and they sent me the correct light a week or two later. To be quite honest, I'm not thrilled with the customer service I received from the company. Not once did the representative apologize for the error. What they did ask was for me to send them pictures of the light and the box that it came in (as if they didn't believe me?). What I expected was "hey, sorry for the error and inconvenience, let's get this sorted out by......."

Instead, i was asked to go on Amazon to purchase the light again and at the same time request an RMA to return the incorrect light. No big deal. Just found it annoying to have my CC charged again and then for it to get credited once they rec'd the incorrect light.

Don't get me wrong, I like the lights. But there are also a lot of great lights within the same price range. I plan to set up two more tanks (40 breeders) and this time around, I think I'll try another manufacturer.

But the DA FSPECs are doing great and I would recommend them to anyone. As a matter of fact the light is probably too strong for me as I'm having an algae problem. For those who know what this type of algae is, can you chime in to see how I can nip it in the butt? http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/8...what-type-algae-how-do-i-find-root-cause.html

Here are the two tanks with the DA FSPEC:


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## varanidguy

cadd said:


> I don't think I've ever posted updated photos of the DA FSPEC lights. When I ordered the DA FSPEC for my 10g tank in November, I was sent the EA FSPEC instead. Got that sorted out and they sent me the correct light a week or two later. To be quite honest, I'm not thrilled with the customer service I received from the company. Not once did the representative apologize for the error. What they did ask was for me to send them pictures of the light and the box that it came in (as if they didn't believe me?). What I expected was "hey, sorry for the error and inconvenience, let's get this sorted out by......."
> 
> 
> 
> Instead, i was asked to go on Amazon to purchase the light again and at the same time request an RMA to return the incorrect light. No big deal. Just found it annoying to have my CC charged again and then for it to get credited once they rec'd the incorrect light.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't get me wrong, I like the lights. But there are also a lot of great lights within the same price range. I plan to set up two more tanks (40 breeders) and this time around, I think I'll try another manufacturer.
> 
> 
> 
> But the DA FSPECs are doing great and I would recommend them to anyone. As a matter of fact the light is probably too strong for me as I'm having an algae problem. For those who know what this type of algae is, can you chime in to see how I can nip it in the butt? http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/8...what-type-algae-how-do-i-find-root-cause.html
> 
> 
> 
> Here are the two tanks with the DA FSPEC:




It looks like you have a combination of the start of hair algae or maybe “water silk” and some green spot algae. My DA FSPEC is also causing green spot algae, I think the light is a little more intense than it is given credit for. I’m planning on adding pressurized co2 soon to combat this limitation.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MKultra

*Ty*

TY @clownplanted!!!! I'm a new member but long time hobbyist. 

I was able directly compare you graph/data for the DA FSPEC from here and compare it to the data for the finnex planted 24/7 from your other thread. The data/PAR graph is almost identical between the two lights at 22" so i pulled the trigger on the fspec and saved the 45$. TY for your contribution to the community!


----------



## Glyphic

I really like the way the FSPEC looks, however it only seems to come in 36" and 72". My tank is 48" long, I currently have the 30" DHL on it but have decently dark corners. Anyone using the FSPEC on a 48" tank?


----------



## cadd

Glyphic said:


> I really like the way the FSPEC looks, however it only seems to come in 36" and 72". My tank is 48" long, I currently have the 30" DHL on it but have decently dark corners. Anyone using the FSPEC on a 48" tank?


Yes. Scroll up 3 post and you'll see a picture of the 4ft Fspec. 

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----------



## Glyphic

I looked again and found the 48" version on Amazon. For some reason it was under a different product.


----------



## RWaters

Hello all. I'm interested in trying a Beamswork light on a 29 gallon tank (18" to 19" tall). I've read through this thread and still don't know exactly which light to get. I don't care for the yellow appearance of the DHL, but is the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W in the link below the one to get if I want to go without CO2 or is that too much light?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFF07I8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=APGLUTFSIU1LH&psc=1


----------



## beckyhiker

RWaters said:


> Hello all. I'm interested in trying a Beamswork light on a 29 gallon tank (18" to 19" tall). I've read through this thread and still don't know exactly which light to get. I don't care for the yellow appearance of the DHL, but is the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W in the link below the one to get if I want to go without CO2 or is that too much light?
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LFF07I8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=APGLUTFSIU1LH&psc=1


I am far from an expert, but I do have this light on my 29 gallon. I can tell you that on my tank I get algae with this light when I don't have a lot of floating plants covering the top. This happens with DIY CO2 running and when I only use a liquid carbon supplement. I still really like the light though.


----------



## RWaters

beckyhiker said:


> I am far from an expert, but I do have this light on my 29 gallon. I can tell you that on my tank I get algae with this light when I don't have a lot of floating plants covering the top. This happens with DIY CO2 running and when I only use a liquid carbon supplement. I still really like the light though.


Thanks for sharing your experience on a 29 - it's definitely helpful! I typically have a lot of floaters and I planned to have vals that would also block some light once they're tall enough. However, I don't want to start trying CO2 and I don't want to be fighting algae growing all over the floaters or the vals. The Beamswork DA Fspec seems like a great light for the price but maybe I need to look for some other light.


----------



## FlyingShawn

RWaters said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience on a 29 - it's definitely helpful! I typically have a lot of floaters and I planned to have vals that would also block some light once they're tall enough. However, I don't want to start trying CO2 and I don't want to be fighting algae growing all over the floaters or the vals. The Beamswork DA Fspec seems like a great light for the price but maybe I need to look for some other light.


I just started up a 29 with this light, but I'm using one of the inexpensive dimmers mentioned in this thread to dial it back to around 70% brightness. Still too early to tell if that'll be the sweet spot to prevent algae, but I tend to think it's better to have control over a overpowered light than get an under-powered one and later realize it isn't enough.


----------



## vvDO

Any idea why 48” and 30” DA FSPEC and differ greatly in PAR at 12”? If I’m reading correctly there’s almost a 100% difference.

The only difference I can see is the tank they were measured over. Was there any shading from plants? Less reflection off glass because of the larger tank? Are the fixtures different in some other way? Density of LEDs? Wattage?


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----------



## RWaters

FlyingShawn said:


> I just started up a 29 with this light, but I'm using one of the inexpensive dimmers mentioned in this thread to dial it back to around 70% brightness. Still too early to tell if that'll be the sweet spot to prevent algae, but I tend to think it's better to have control over a overpowered light than get an under-powered one and later realize it isn't enough.


I didn't think a dimmer worked on this particular light. I guess I was wrong. This may be a good option for me. Let me know how you fare with it.


----------



## TheDopeGodfather

clownplanted said:


> All of my non co2 tanks with the DHL and FSPEC lights I had to get and use the dimmer I mentioned in the first post. Otherwise algae does and will take hold. I dim about 50% and get almost no algae. On full blast without the dimmer algae spreads like a wildfire. That $10 dimmer is a lifesaver.


I've got the 48" DHL. Care to link me to this $10 dimmer you mentioned?


----------



## clownplanted

TheDopeGodfather said:


> I've got the 48" DHL. Care to link me to this $10 dimmer you mentioned?


It is in the very first post at the very end. here it is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FC04I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## FlyingShawn

TheDopeGodfather said:


> I've got the 48" DHL. Care to link me to this $10 dimmer you mentioned?


This is the one I ordered and works great with this light (it was originally suggested earlier in this thread by clownplanted, if memory serves):
Current USA Truelumen Inline Dimmer for 12 and 24-Volt LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FC04I8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

It doesn't have any sort of notch or arrow on the dial to point to the current setting, so I figured out how much it rotates between min/max and put a piece of tape on the dial so I can keep track of where it's set in case it gets bumped or I need to tweak the brightness.


----------



## clownplanted

FlyingShawn said:


> This is the one I ordered and works great with this light (it was originally suggested earlier in this thread by clownplanted, if memory serves):
> Current USA Truelumen Inline Dimmer for 12 and 24-Volt LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FC04I8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
> 
> It doesn't have any sort of notch or arrow on the dial to point to the current setting, so I figured out how much it rotates between min/max and put an piece of tape on the dial so I can keep track of where it's set in case it gets bumped or I can need to tweak the brightness.


That is exactly what I did and works great. I use the dimmer on my low tech shrimp tanks and it seems perfect at 50% dimmed.


----------



## clownplanted

RWaters said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience on a 29 - it's definitely helpful! I typically have a lot of floaters and I planned to have vals that would also block some light once they're tall enough. However, I don't want to start trying CO2 and I don't want to be fighting algae growing all over the floaters or the vals. The Beamswork DA Fspec seems like a great light for the price but maybe I need to look for some other light.


Just get the dimmer and dim the light as low/high as you like. I get zero algae in all of my low tech tanks with these lights using the dimmer I mentioned/linked and dim it 50%.


----------



## cadd

Yup, I have the same exact dimmer as well. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## RWaters

clownplanted said:


> Just get the dimmer and dim the light as low/high as you like. I get zero algae in all of my low tech tanks with these lights using the dimmer I mentioned/linked and dim it 50%.


Thanks. So just to be clear, I should get the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W (30") and the dimmer you linked. I use a regular timer for all of my lights so I don't need to buy the Timer Module for this light, correct?


----------



## vanish

RWaters said:


> Thanks. So just to be clear, I should get the Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W (30") and the dimmer you linked. I use a regular timer for all of my lights so I don't need to buy the Timer Module for this light, correct?


You don't need the Timer Module - a regular timer will work just fine. I personally quite like the timer module since it has both separate white and blue timers, as well as one click overrides.

Note: I don't know how using the dimmer interferes with the special timer.


----------



## cadd

clownplanted said:


> It is in the very first post at the very end. here it is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008FC04I8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1





FlyingShawn said:


> This is the one I ordered and works great with this light (it was originally suggested earlier in this thread by clownplanted, if memory serves):
> Current USA Truelumen Inline Dimmer for 12 and 24-Volt LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008FC04I8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


I have the same exact dimmer for my 48" Beamswork DA FSPEC. Works great. However, this dimmer doesn't work for the 18" Beamswork DA FSPEC for some reason. The jack fits perfectly. However, the light is always at 100% no matter what I do with the dial on the dimmer. Even if I turn the dimmer to the off position (audible click), the light is still at 100%.

Does anyone have the 18" model and found a dimmer that works successfully?

By the way, does anyone know the jack sizes of these dimmers?

Specs of my lights:
48" Beamswork adapter output: DC 15V at 4 amps
18" Beamswork adapter output: DC 15V at 2 amps


----------



## jeffkrol

Are you sure the dimmer isn't defective?
and the 18" has a separate power supply (wall wart/brick) correct? 

Believe the jack size is 5.5 x2.5.. but need to check.


----------



## cadd

jeffkrol said:


> Are you sure the dimmer isn't defective?
> and the 18" has a separate power supply (wall wart/brick) correct?
> 
> Believe the jack size is 5.5 x2.5.. but need to check.


I am 100% sure the dimmer isn't defective because it is currently working fine on the 48" light. The 48" light has a brick power supply. The 18" light has the smaller wall wart power supply. The jack sizes are identical for both power supplies.


----------



## jeffkrol

Weird.. AFAICT they all work "sort of" this way:









What is the DC out of the wall wart?


----------



## cadd

jeffkrol said:


> Weird.. AFAICT they all work "sort of" this way:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is the DC out of the wall wart?


It looks like DC 15 volts at 2 amps. Is this the info you're looking for?









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## jeffkrol

Well got me stumped. See no reason it shouldn't work correctly....unless...possibly.. polarity is reversed..
Think someone had this happen but don't quote me on it.. Check the power supply positive and negative.. see if it's the same as the other power supplies..


----------



## cadd

You hit the nail in the head!!! I looked at it again today and I think the polarity is reversed. I think most jacks/barrels are center positive. I think the small light is center negative. I purchase a 5.5 x 2.1mm Jack Reverse Polarity Converter Cable. Hopefully that'll solve it. 

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## Dunskap

Thoughts on the Beamswork DA Fspec on a low-tech 29 Gallon 18" deep? Looking at low-moderate light plants


----------



## varanidguy

Dunskap said:


> Thoughts on the Beamswork DA Fspec on a low-tech 29 Gallon 18" deep? Looking at low-moderate light plants




I would get a dimmer as outlined above. That was initially my plan as well, but this light grows GSA in my tank like it’s nobody’s business. I tried reducing photoperiod, increasing phosphates, larger more frequent water changes, etc. I’ve resorted to injected co2 now, and I’m excited about it, but it wasn’t the initial plan.


----------



## Dunskap

varanidguy said:


> I would get a dimmer as outlined above. That was initially my plan as well, but this light grows GSA in my tank like it’s nobody’s business. I tried reducing photoperiod, increasing phosphates, larger more frequent water changes, etc. I’ve resorted to injected co2 now, and I’m excited about it, but it wasn’t the initial plan.


Would the dimmer work with both the Beamswork timer module  and/or a random aquarium timer I already bought?


----------



## varanidguy

Dunskap said:


> Would the dimmer work with both the Beamswork timer module  and/or a random aquarium timer I already bought?




I don’t see why not. The dimmer would just be the very last step before being plugged into a power source to make sure it does its job correctly.


----------



## Strong Style

Looking through this thread and Amazon, I'm inferring the following:

Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W - Is high light and needs to be dimmed to prevent algae with CO2.
Beamswork EA Timer FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Freshwwater Plant Extendable - is 10k, thus not the right light for plants.

Is the above correct?

Regarding Beamswork EA Timer 6500K 0.50W LED Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant, which light level is that considered compared to the DA FSPEC? Also, is the DHL variety no longer manufactured? I don't see it on Amazon.


----------



## cadd

Dunskap said:


> Would the dimmer work with both the Beamswork timer module  and/or a random aquarium timer I already bought?





varanidguy said:


> I don’t see why not. The dimmer would just be the very last step before being plugged into a power source to make sure it does its job correctly.


I remember reading a few reviews of the dimmer not playing well with the Beamswork timer. If I remembered correctly, when the Beamswork timer is used with the dimmer, it emits an annoying sound. 

Note: I have a generic timer (similar to your 2nd link) and it is compatible with the dimmer on my 48" Beamswork DA FSPEC. However, the dimmer does NOT work with the 18" Beamswork DA FSPEC. I think it's due to a difference in polarity. The 48's power supply is center positive. I "believe" the 18's power supply is center negative.


----------



## varanidguy

cadd said:


> I remember reading a few reviews of the dimmer not playing well with the Beamswork timer. If I remembered correctly, when the timer is used with the dimmer, it emits an annoying sound.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk




Fair enough, you could always get a standard WiFi timer. I’m using those for my co2 and air pump and love them.


----------



## varanidguy

Strong Style said:


> Looking through this thread and Amazon, I'm inferring the following:
> 
> 
> 
> Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W - Is high light and needs to be dimmed to prevent algae with CO2.
> 
> Beamswork EA Timer FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Freshwwater Plant Extendable - is 10k, thus not the right light for plants.
> 
> 
> 
> Is the above correct?
> 
> 
> 
> Regarding Beamswork EA Timer 6500K 0.50W LED Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant, which light level is that considered compared to the DA FSPEC? Also, is the DHL variety no longer manufactured? I don't see it on Amazon.




I would say your assumption is correct, however I’d classify the DA FSPEC as medium-high. The EA Timer is very low light, you could probably do anubias and the like but that’s about it. I’m unsure whether the DHL is still manufactured, but I’m sure you could find some offerings on eBay.


----------



## cadd

varanidguy said:


> Fair enough, you could always get a standard WiFi timer. I’m using those for my co2 and air pump and love them.


Again, I don't know how true it is. But this was the review i read saying the dimmer doesn't work with the Beamswork timer.

WiFi timer! High tech stuff. Do you mind sharing the model you have? I'm still using the old school timers that you push pins to indicate on/off hours. Maybe it's time for me to upgrade.









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----------



## jeffkrol

varanidguy said:


> I would say your assumption is correct, however I’d classify the DA FSPEC as medium-high. The EA Timer is very low light, you could probably do anubias and the like but that’s about it. I’m unsure whether the DHL is still manufactured, but I’m sure you could find some offerings on eBay.


DHL uses 1W diodes
https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-6500K-Lumen-Aquarium-Freshwater/dp/B01FVNPZN2

EA???

HL, high lumen DHL double high lumen or some such odd thing..


----------



## cadd

And I agree with the above. The EA FSPEC isn't strong at all. I had one and the difference in light output between the EA and DA models are pretty significant. If you like, I can find a photo of these two lights on my tanks side by side for a visual comparison. 

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## jeffkrol

Except for the 1w-ers Just 3 row or 5 row emitters.. in current stock


----------



## varanidguy

cadd said:


> Again, I don't know how true it is. But this was the review i read saying the dimmer doesn't work with the Beamswork timer.
> 
> WiFi timer! High tech stuff. Do you mind sharing the model you have? I'm still using the old school timers that you push pins to indicate on/off hours. Maybe it's time for me to upgrade.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk




Sure! This is the model I’m using and absolutely love them. I’m going to eventually replace all timers with these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079GT5JFS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd


----------



## varanidguy

jeffkrol said:


> DHL uses 1W diodes
> https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-6500K-Lumen-Aquarium-Freshwater/dp/B01FVNPZN2
> 
> EA???
> 
> HL, high lumen DHL double high lumen or some such odd thing..




The EA designation is by Beamswork, not I.


----------



## Strong Style

How has the light's longevity been for you folks? On Amazon, it seems a major issue with the DHL is it burning out in 6 months.


----------



## jeffkrol

Strong Style said:


> How has the light's longevity been for you folks? On Amazon, it seems a major issue with the DHL is it burning out in 6 months.


most failures seem to just be dead power supplies.. Problem though is this:


> One word of caution Re: the 1W model. It uses an odd 21V power supply


Otherwise it's an easy, though should be uncommon, fix..


----------



## varanidguy

Strong Style said:


> How has the light's longevity been for you folks? On Amazon, it seems a major issue with the DHL is it burning out in 6 months.




Mine has been going strong since November. While that’s not a long time by any standards, the power supply doesn’t get hot and it’s reliably always turned off and on again.

Edit: I apologize I got my dates mixed up. I got it in September.


----------



## Dunskap

For a 29 Gallon (18" from substrate) with medium plants light and no CO2, do you think this would be good over the Finnex Planted+?

Background Amazon Sword x2, Madagascar Lace
Midground Bacopa Monnieri x2, Dwaf sag x2, Horizontal Mini Sword,
Foreground: Pearlweed x2

Beamswork DA FSPEC 30" LED $50 + Current USA Truelumen Inline Dimmer $17 = $67

or

Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED 30" $86

Follow up questions:

1. Would Flourish Excel be recommended?

2. Would the light intensity be too much for Anubias?


----------



## jeffkrol

Dunskap said:


> For a 29 Gallon (18" from substrate) with medium plants light and no CO2, do you think this would be good over the Finnex Planted+?
> 
> Background Amazon Sword x2, Madagascar Lace
> Midground Bacopa Monnieri x2, Dwaf sag x2, Horizontal Mini Sword,
> Foreground: Pearlweed x2
> 
> Beamswork DA FSPEC 30" LED $50 + Current USA Truelumen Inline Dimmer $17 = $67
> 
> or
> 
> Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED 30" $86
> 
> Follow up questions:
> 
> 1. Would Flourish Excel be recommended?
> 
> 2. Would the light intensity be too much for Anubias?


can't tell if that is the CC version or not.. 
Suspect it is not
Only one of that series I'd "personally" recommend really..
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Customizable-Aquarium-Fixture/dp/B077VS542S


Actually if you want power and a good look:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GH9HSC6/ref=twister_B00HIE3M6U?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

you can add a dimmer as easy as w/ the Beamswork..well may have to cut the cord..


----------



## varanidguy

Dunskap said:


> For a 29 Gallon (18" from substrate) with medium plants light and no CO2, do you think this would be good over the Finnex Planted+?
> 
> 
> 
> Background Amazon Sword x2, Madagascar Lace
> 
> Midground Bacopa Monnieri x2, Dwaf sag x2, Horizontal Mini Sword,
> 
> Foreground: Pearlweed x2
> 
> 
> 
> Beamswork DA FSPEC 30" LED $50 + Current USA Truelumen Inline Dimmer $17 = $67
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 
> 
> Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED 30" $86
> 
> 
> 
> Follow up questions:
> 
> 
> 
> 1. Would Flourish Excel be recommended?
> 
> 
> 
> 2. Would the light intensity be too much for Anubias?




You would absolutely need to use fertilizers with the DA FSPEC and the Planted+. I’d say the DA FSPEC will be a bit more powerful than the 24/7 model providing you’re running it in the 24/7 mode. Both at full blast might be more comparable. DA FSPEC would absolutely require a dimmer without co2.


----------



## Dunskap

varanidguy said:


> You would absolutely need to use fertilizers with the DA FSPEC and the Planted+. I’d say the DA FSPEC will be a bit more powerful than the 24/7 model providing you’re running it in the 24/7 mode. Both at full blast might be more comparable. DA FSPEC would absolutely require a dimmer without co2.


I'd be using Flourish (comprehensive fertilizer) and Flourish Tabs no matter what 

I'm talking about Flourish Excel


----------



## bluesand

Strong Style said:


> How has the light's longevity been for you folks? On Amazon, it seems a major issue with the DHL is it burning out in 6 months.


I own the 1w version and the lights died on me within 1 month. I think that the problem is with the power supply. Tested it with a volt meter and the voltage is not stable, fluctuates between 21-19.8v.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## varanidguy

Dunskap said:


> I'd be using Flourish (comprehensive fertilizer) and Flourish Tabs no matter what
> 
> 
> 
> I'm talking about Flourish Excel




Oh, that’s meh for me, personally. I never saw a benefit of using it in my tank, tbh.


----------



## Strong Style

With the DHL having the adapter issues it seems like a risky investment. I also like how the FSPEC produces a clearer effect on the tank while the DHL seems to have a slight yellowing effect. If I get a single FSPEC and a dimmer, how much should I dim it to get good growth out of plants like val, swords, and maybe the easier carpeting plants like monte carlo? Thanks for the all information!


----------



## varanidguy

Strong Style said:


> With the DHL having the adapter issues it seems like a risky investment. I also like how the FSPEC produces a clearer effect on the tank while the DHL seems to have a slight yellowing effect. If I get a single FSPEC and a dimmer, how much should I dim it to get good growth out of plants like val, swords, and maybe the easier carpeting plants like monte carlo? Thanks for the all information!




I would dim it so it’s 50% to start and slowly bump it up if you don’t have good growth. However I added co2 about a week ago on my tank with the DA FSPEC and the difference is already huge! If you can swing it, co2 is amazing.


----------



## Letsfish

I have a 29-gallon with 24/7 planted + on it and have never had any success with it.I have run the 24/7 mode and the Max mode all I ever got was slow growth and BBA.As of now, I am running the max mode 3hrs on 4 hrs off 3hrs on. I am to a point where I am thinking of going to T5 HO with 6500k tubes.


----------



## Strong Style

This question came up in the thread earlier but I couldn't find the answer to it. Do we know why the PAR of the 48' FSPEC is less than the 30" model? I am going to use this for my 55 g, so would 48" model still need to be dimmed?


----------



## jeffkrol

Dimmers never hurt....
and manual ones are like $5 or less...

As to the discrepancy.. no clear cut answer.. Seneye is very directional so that could account for some.. 
side reflections from a smaller tank. More oblique angles from a larger tank.. user error ect..


----------



## varanidguy

Strong Style said:


> This question came up in the thread earlier but I couldn't find the answer to it. Do we know why the PAR of the 48' FSPEC is less than the 30" model? I am going to use this for my 55 g, so would 48" model still need to be dimmed?


My guess would be because there is slightly more lights packed into a shorter width of fixture. The 48 inch light has 50% more lights (120 vs 80) for slightly more than 50% width.

This is just a guess, however. I agree with the sentiment that a dimmer couldn't hurt and they're not expensive. Seeing as how low-tech people like to use the DA FSPEC at about 50% light output, you might want to dim it by 30-40% for a 55 gallon if you're not going to go with co2.

I wish I understood PAR and PUR a lot better before purchasing this light, because at the shorter widths, it appears that the DA FSPEC model is in the "high light" category (going into it, I was thinking medium, but my experience is that is wrong, at least for the 36" model on a 40 breeder). Rather than dimming, I dropped the money on a co2 rig...moving forward, if this is my light of choice on future planted tanks, co2 will be set up at the same time OR a dimmer will have to be purchased.


----------



## MasterofCloak

jeffkrol said:


> most failures seem to just be dead power supplies.. Problem though is this:
> 
> 
> Otherwise it's an easy, though should be uncommon, fix..




How would one go about fixing this? I just ordered two Dhls for my tank. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## jeffkrol

MasterofCloak said:


> How would one go about fixing this? I just ordered two Dhls for my tank.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Just buy different power supplies..

Match voltage..

Power supplies "should" (cheap parts) fail b4 diodes..


----------



## Guppyganng

Should I get a DA Fspec or a DHL for my 24 inch long and 24 inches high 20g? I plan on having it planted with medium light plants.


----------



## varanidguy

Guppyganng said:


> Should I get a DA Fspec or a DHL for my 24 inch long and 24 inches high 20g? I plan on having it planted with medium light plants.




On that tall of a tank I’d try the DA FSPEC.


----------



## milesm

varanidguy said:


> This is just a guess, however. I agree with the sentiment that a dimmer couldn't hurt and they're not expensive. Seeing as how low-tech people like to use the DA FSPEC at about 50% light output, you might want to dim it by 30-40% for a 55 gallon if you're not going to go with co2.
> 
> I wish I understood PAR and PUR a lot better before purchasing this light, because at the shorter widths, it appears that the DA FSPEC model is in the "high light" category (going into it, I was thinking medium, but my experience is that is wrong, at least for the 36" model on a 40 breeder). Rather than dimming, I dropped the money on a co2 rig...moving forward, if this is my light of choice on future planted tanks, co2 will be set up at the same time OR a dimmer will have to be purchased.


you will not regret getting a co2 system. rather than the current usa dimmer (whose price has skyrocketed in the past 6 months), i got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016TLH9D4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. fully functional, and although the barrel connectors don't have the locking nut the connection seems snug enough. i have the 24" dafspec and i'd say it's definitely medium light at 12".


----------



## Guppyganng

varanidguy said:


> On that tall of a tank I’d try the DA FSPEC.


Thank you for the answer.


----------



## tonbrencat

Okay, I have read all 20 pages and while some questions have been answered....I still need some help-this old lady has a bit of problems understanding some of the terms you folks use.

I am looking for the 48in LED light for a 75gal very heavy planted soil based tank. Please, I beg of you- to add a link so I can follow it to the correct one-I am confused between the two you are talking about....

It is time to change from that wonderful yellow hue from the 6500k florescent lights I have used for the past 20 some-odd years. I do get pretty good plant growth and I got the Current USA a few months back and love the non-yellow look, however, I need another LED since its not enough alone and I have to turn on my old ones and that kills that pretty color....

Thanks millions


----------



## jeffkrol

Though certainly more expensive than a Beamswwork a Fluval 3.0 is better suited for you I think.

Beamswork 6500k is a bit less "colorful" than you might want and the white (10000k-ish)/red/green/blue are probably too cool.

The yescom w/ 8000k whites is a bit "warmer" for your taste..though a bit hokey as to the colored diode pattern and will be bluer than yellow.
https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Multi...sr=8-28&keywords=freshwater+aquarium+led&th=1

This should work fine though the brightness may be an issue.
https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-65...26325&sr=8-5&keywords=freshwater+aquarium+led


----------



## tonbrencat

jeffkrol said:


> Though certainly more expensive than a Beamswwork a Fluval 3.0 is better suited for you I think.
> 
> Beamswork 6500k is a bit less "colorful" than you might want and the white (10000k-ish)/red/green/blue are probably too cool.
> 
> The yescom w/ 8000k whites is a bit "warmer" for your taste..though a bit hokey as to the colored diode pattern and will be bluer than yellow.
> https://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Multi...sr=8-28&keywords=freshwater+aquarium+led&th=1
> 
> This should work fine though the brightness may be an issue.
> https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-65...26325&sr=8-5&keywords=freshwater+aquarium+led


Thank you for the info...Okay, now on that Yescom do you know the PAR on that and is it 120 degree like the Beamworks

Its hard to let go of the funds for a Fluval, however, the 2.0 or Aquasky are the two I like the most and I am still leaning that way-but after reading about the Beamworks and then the cost difference made me re-think things-because it is an investment-plus I want to replace all my lights on all (12) of my NPT I keep and need to find a more cost effective method. I can't do DIY due to limited fine motor skill issues so I have to buy everything.

I do need to be careful with lights so not to throw off my balance in the tanks-I don't have any problem algae issues and never really do unless a bulb needs changed or I over clean a tank and this is without Co2, ferts or water changes more than a few times a year-but I have mass plants with good growth and limited stocking with more shrimp than fish and the beauty of the dirt tanks with too many water-changes being one of the biggest reasons they can fail and/or cause imbalance IME....so I need to do research on these lights before I make the change and risk imbalance-especially since that Current USA was more of a impulse buy and wish I researched more because I would not have bought it.

What are your thoughts on the Fluval 2.0 and Aquasky


----------



## bigtrout

I just got this light today and I am impressed. My main tank was in the living room it is a 75 gallon with a 4 tube Aquatic life T5HO, which was too much light for my setup with all 4 tubes on. Its a nice fixture but being in the living room it had noisy fans. Being at the end of tube life, I decided to try LED. My aquatic life measured around 160 par at the substrate (21") with 4 tubes and around 80 with 4 tubes, so I am aiming for 80 par with LED. 

I bought the 48" FSPEC and the timer. Here are my findings:

Silence at last! And this looks alot better than the big t5ho box.

Par measured with a borrowed meter is 42 at the substrate which is 20 inches because this sits a little lower on the tank.

Power from the wall measures 48 watts with all lights on. The power supply is rated 15 volts at 4 amps.

My old galaxy S5 was good at reading color temp with an app and I calibrated it under a whole bunch of known Kelvin lights, so I got it out to check this. With all lights on (blues and 10k, greens and reds) it sits at 8800 Kelvin. With the timer you can turn off the blues and with just the 10k white, greens and reds it reads around 7000 kelvin. Subjectively this is very pleasing and 3looks similar to the GE starcoat 6500k T5HO without the green/yellow washout. It gives the tank and fish especially alot of 'pop'. The blues as nightlights are going to make my wife want glowfish...lol.

With 40 par, for a 75 gallon, I am going to get a second DA. I was going to get a DA 6500k but after looking at tank pics on this thread of the DHL 6500k (same green/yellow washout as starcoats), I have decided to get a second DA FSPEC which gets me into the 80 PAR range where I want to be. At the price its a great basic light.


----------



## bigtrout

klinger988 said:


> Can you explain why the PAR is different based on the length of the light? The same model light but with different lengths at 12in is 100 vs 50s. Does the shorter light just pack more LEDs into a smaller space? I would have expected the amount of LEDs to be proportional to the length making the PAR at any point similar regardless of light length. Thanks!!


Looking at the specs of these and seeing my own 48" light, the 30 inch is probably running the leds at near full power of 150ma giving 50-55 lumens per led, my 48 inch according to calcs, is running the leds at 120ma and giving 40 lumens per led. The reason? On a 48 inch light if they were ran at 150ma the 4 amp 15v power supply would have to be bumped to a 6 amp supply.

Anyone with a 30 inch version of the light care to look at the smd resistors to comfirm my suspicions? If so they are a small black square visible and located near the leds, you can see them thru the clear cover. It will be a simple 3 digit number.

For instance the leds are run in series strings of 4 leds at 3.1 volts per led. My resistors are marked 150, meaning they are 15 ohms. Calculating that out I get 120ma thru the string. The 5730 leds used are 55 lumens at 150 ma but at 120ma that means about 44 lumens per led. My light has 120 leds x44 equals 5280 lumens which is the given spec of the light.

I think the 30 inch version is using just under 150ma, giving 50 lumens per led. 50 lumens x80 is 4000 lumens which is the listed spec for the 30 inch.

What do your resistors have on them 30 inch FSPEC owners?


----------



## Grobbins48

Does this help? 30" DA FSPEC.










I also have a 48" with what seems to be the same resistors.


----------



## jeffkrol

> I would have expected the amount of LEDs to be proportional to the length making the PAR at any point similar regardless of light length.


well not quite .. since the farther down from the light the more overlap of adj diodes and more diodes farther out come into play..

There are many factors that come into play inc. diode lot, power supplies, board resistance, accuracy of terminating resistors ect..


----------



## Grobbins48

Just to add a bit into the thread-

I have a 55 gallon high tech, EI dosing, DIY Cerges reactor. I had been running a DA FSPEC 48" and really enjoyed it. I then added some Phillips Hue LED strips that I had laying around the house to boost the light, add some warmer color to the tank. After a couple weeks of this, I decided I wanted to get a DHL 6,500K 1W. It just arrived a few hours ago and it has been installed. So now the tank is running a DA FSPEC and DHL 6,500K 1W, and WOW! I thought I knew what pearling was, but withing a few minutes the tanks is soda water of pearling!

Obviously need to give this more time, but really excited with how these two look on my tank so far. Oh, and ~100 PAR at substrate (according to post #1) for >$100= pretty fantastic in my book. More to come in the future on this!


----------



## bigtrout

I went with 2 FSPECs and just got the second light today, perfect lighting on my 75 gallon and I love the color and brightness. Around 80 par both lights on and it is a clean white light that highlights the fish colors as long as you use the timer and dont run the blues. For now, brightness can be contolled by only runnning one light at a time or both at once with the timers. Looking at the construction of the light, everything looks well made with the weak point being the power supply which they are running close to maxxed out. My first light read 48-49 watts with everything on and the second reads 52 watts with all lights on. The power supply is rated at 60 watts( 15V and 4 amps) Because im an electrical tech, next project is a 15 volt 10 amp power supply and to use a tc-420 to be able to run and dim BOTH lights off of one quality power supply, AND be able to run and dim each channel on each light indepently. You cant do this without using P-channel mosfets between the tc420 and the beamswork lights.

And about another observation people have had... if the timer has the white lights on and you flip the rocker switch to all lights on, the light brightens about 5-10 percent by eye. This is because of the switch arrangement of just blues and all lights on. The timer however switches both indepently. To do this they added shottky diodes to the system to make it work, so using the timer the white channel has a .5 volt drop in voltage, and there could be 2 diode voltage drops. There is an arrangement of 4 diodes on my light and I haven't got my meter out to delve into it, but I think I may be able to get rid of that drop by removing diodes, but that would render the rocker switch to being an either blues on or whites on.


----------



## ShermanGirl

*What is a tc-420?*



bigtrout said:


> I went with 2 FSPECs and just got the second light today, perfect lighting on my 75 gallon and I love the color and brightness. Around 80 par both lights on and it is a clean white light that highlights the fish colors as long as you use the timer and dont run the blues. For now, brightness can be contolled by only runnning one light at a time or both at once with the timers. Looking at the construction of the light, everything looks well made with the weak point being the power supply which they are running close to maxxed out. My first light read 48-49 watts with everything on and the second reads 52 watts with all lights on. The power supply is rated at 60 watts( 15V and 4 amps) Because im an electrical tech, next project is a 15 volt 10 amp power supply and to use a tc-420 to be able to run and dim BOTH lights off of one quality power supply, AND be able to run and dim each channel on each light indepently. You cant do this without using P-channel mosfets between the tc420 and the beamswork lights.
> 
> And about another observation people have had... if the timer has the white lights on and you flip the rocker switch to all lights on, the light brightens about 5-10 percent by eye. This is because of the switch arrangement of just blues and all lights on. The timer however switches both indepently. To do this they added shottky diodes to the system to make it work, so using the timer the white channel has a .5 volt drop in voltage, and there could be 2 diode voltage drops. There is an arrangement of 4 diodes on my light and I haven't got my meter out to delve into it, but I think I may be able to get rid of that drop by removing diodes, but that would render the rocker switch to being an either blues on or whites on.



What is a tc-420? I want to be able to run and dim both lights off one power supply also. Do you think you could could diagram that out with instructions so I, not tech savvy, could manage doing the same? I've done a little electrical work, might could manage it with some input of someone like yourself.


----------



## bigtrout

A tc-420 is a lighting controller able to dim multiple channels of lights on a time schedule. To interface it with the beamswork fixture requires an auxillary board with some p channel mosfets. I haventbdone or tested this myself so wont give any advice until I do. Dont want anyone messing up their light until ive tested this and make sure it works


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## The Dude1

I've got a DA and an FSPEC on my 150. Running and dimming both from the same power supply would be fantastic!! I'll keep my eyes open for the write up when you get to it.


----------



## jeffkrol

The Dude1 said:


> I've got a DA and an FSPEC on my 150. Running and dimming both from the same power supply would be fantastic!! I'll keep my eyes open for the write up when you get to it.



you can do that now, easily...They are talking about splitting channels in each light (thus the PNP MOSFETS)
If you just want each entire light to dim.. easy peesy..










as long as each use the same voltage, just need to "up" the power supply


THIS splits a SINGLE Finnex planted plus into 3 channels R,W,B..which is what bigtrout is aiming for.
Works great and is time tested.. 









http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1135130-beamswork-tc420-need-some-help.html


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## The Dude1

Wow!! I read the thread you linked, but I didn't see a suggestion for new power supply to run to the tc-420. Then you just run the lights to the tc-420 and that's it?? Is there a place you suggest to get high quality "plugs" or do you just strip the wires and secure them on the tc-420?


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## jeffkrol

The Dude1 said:


> Wow!! I read the thread you linked, but I didn't see a suggestion for new power supply to run to the tc-420. Then you just run the lights to the tc-420 and that's it?? Is there a place you suggest to get high quality "plugs" or do you just strip the wires and secure them on the tc-420?



most just get the barrel connectors.. Forgot the size off hand but there are only 2 common ones (inside pin diameter differences) w/ that diameter outside (measure the outside diameter of the barrel)..


Your possible worst problem.. The one Watt (small emitters) Beamsworks run at like 21V, most others 15V..THAT is an issue.

If both 15V a 15V 6A power supply should work.. BUT need more info to be closer..

don't actually "recommend" bricks but one example
https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Adapter-Switching-supply-Charger/dp/B073S4M1YV

would handle up to 2 45W head units..


----------



## FuryMonkey

Thoughts on a single 48" DHL for a Walstad(ish) dirt capped 75 gallon planted tank?

I'll be keeping rainbow fish which really require natural 6500k lighting for optimal viewing. I'd be growing undemanding plants like crypts and vals.

Thanks!


----------



## jeffkrol

FuryMonkey said:


> Thoughts on a single 48" DHL for a Walstad(ish) dirt capped 75 gallon planted tank?
> 
> I'll be keeping rainbow fish which really require natural 6500k lighting for optimal viewing. I'd be growing undemanding plants like crypts and vals.
> 
> Thanks!



DHL's 6500k isn't exactly "natural".. It's CRI is probably pretty low..


https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HURE
Better for viewing, even w a slightly skewed spectrum..


If you really want "daylight correct" LED's you prob would be best off building one..
https://store.yujiintl.com/collections/frontpage/products/bc-series-cob-135l?variant=34820681927


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## fiji

So I've read through this entire thread and I just wanted to make sure that this light will good for what I need..
I ended buying the Beamswork DA 6500K 0.50W 30in for my 29g heavily planted/carpeted tank. 
I will have a good amount of S repens and dwarf hair grass for the carpet along with a decent variety of medium light stem plants mixed in there as well. I have some pretty big hills in the scape so the height from light to substrate will be around 12-15 inches..
So my main question is will this light be a good enough light source for those carpet plants from that distance?? 
It seems extremely bright to me when its on the tank.

Oh yeah and I do have a co2 tank set up along with the proper ferts to go with it.

This is the exact light I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/Beamworks-Be...s_a_1_6&sr=8-6&tag=plantedtankconvert-20&th=1

Thanks guys!!


----------



## Tiffany Jasmin

Do you have the link to the Beamswork light you recommend?


----------



## ttatummm

*Short tank*

Great thread! It helped me decide on of the DA FSPEC for my 29 gallon. 

I am setting up a Aquamaxx 9.1 gallon tank which is only 9.5 inches high. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go the with pressurized CO2 on this tank, eventually. The DA FSPEC is way over kill for this tank. I would have to dim the light by a huge amount and I 'm not sure if that is advisable. 

I thought that maybe the EA FSPEC might be a good choice. I assumed that if they are using the same LEDs on the EA as the DA then the PAR on the EA would be just under 50% of the DA (27 LEDs vs 60 LEDs for the 24"). But at least one review (Aquarium Coop) of the EA FSPEC showed a PAR of 10 at 12". But he did mention that he was seeing a slight flicker in the light he was testing, possibly he had a defective light?

Are there PAR measurements available for the EA FSPEC? Any thoughts on what would be a good light for this tank (24" x 9.5" x 9.5", with pressurized CO2)?


----------



## jeffkrol

ttatummm said:


> Great thread! It helped me decide on of the DA FSPEC for my 29 gallon.
> 
> I am setting up a Aquamaxx 9.1 gallon tank which is only 9.5 inches high. I'm pretty sure I'm going to go the with pressurized CO2 on this tank, eventually. The DA FSPEC is way over kill for this tank. I would have to dim the light by a huge amount and I 'm not sure if that is advisable.
> 
> I thought that maybe the EA FSPEC might be a good choice. I assumed that if they are using the same LEDs on the EA as the DA then the PAR on the EA would be just under 50% of the DA (27 LEDs vs 60 LEDs for the 24"). But at least one review (Aquarium Coop) of the EA FSPEC showed a PAR of 10 at 12". But he did mention that he was seeing a slight flicker in the light he was testing, possibly he had a defective light?
> 
> Are there PAR measurements available for the EA FSPEC? Any thoughts on what would be a good light for this tank (24" x 9.5" x 9.5", with pressurized CO2)?












DA is closer to the HE..
60/24 = 2.5x 

2.5x 21 = 52 est for DA using EA..


HE is 71


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## ttatummm

Thanks for the table of PAR data. I totally forgot that about it. Well, it was 20 pages back in the thread ;-)

Been going back and forth on a light for this tank. This tank is in my son's room and a light just sitting on an open tank in a teenaged boy's room is just asking for trouble. So I think I'll go with the DA FSPEC and hang it over the tank. That way I don't have to worry about it landing in the tank.

Thanks again for all the info on the Beamsworks lights. It has made it possible to move forward on a new tank for me and one for him.


----------



## yannifb

Hey guys- I've recently set up a 75G with a pressurized co2 system and a 48" Beamswork DA FSPEC Pent. I started a carpet of HC, a christmas moss tree, 2 alternethera reinickii clippings, water wisteria and two amazon swords so far. I've got a ludwigia repens and nymphaea rubra on the way as well- the tank is 18" tall but I've got 2-4 inches of substrate across, and around 3 where the HC is (i made a hill for the tree, hence the deep substrate). The substrate is flourite black sand with root tabs. Considering the beamswork should be outputting about 60 PAR at substrate based off the charts, should I be good to go with these plants? I've attached a pic of the tank for reference (pic is before I added AR and wisteria).

Also I wanted to chime in on this issue I've seen people posting about earlier in the thread on the 30" v 48" PAR readings. The power per LED is pretty much equal, as you would expect, between the two bulbs. The only reason such a stark discrepancy should be seen is because there was some sort of equipment or user error in one of the tests. Strip lights like these under the same model are designed to proportionally increase output to length as to provide roughly the same expected performance regardless of length; the main variables between models are power/LED & number of LEDS/area, so with the same model you naturally wouldn't expect performance disparities.

EDIT: Forgot to mention, don't worry about the cloudiness in the tank, that was just because the picture was taken while the substrate was settling. Its clear now


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## cadd

I have the DA on the 55 and 10 gal. Both are on dimmers set to about 50% power.


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## TommyD11730

cadd said:


> You hit the nail in the head!!! I looked at it again today and I think the polarity is reversed. I think most jacks/barrels are center positive. I think the small light is center negative. I purchase a 5.5 x 2.1mm Jack Reverse Polarity Converter Cable. Hopefully that'll solve it.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


I know this is a older thread but boy, its a good one! Figured it would be a good place to create my first post.
I'm running the DA FSPEC on both a 29 and 20T. The "cheap" dimmer was a lifesaver on the 29. Some of my fish were not enjoying the sudden increase in lighting. However on my 20T it dosent seem to bother the fish as much. Possibly because the glass the lamp is over is slightly etched.

Anyway I ordered the 20" model (DA FSPEC 2800 LUM) for a little 10 Gallon quarantine tank. I also got a small mechanical dimmer as well. Has anyone noticed if the polarity is reversed as indicated on the 18" model?

Thanks!!
Tommy D

P.S. Photo of the DA FSPEC 24" on a 20T (everyone likes photos) :smile2:


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## TommyD11730

OK guys here's the skinny on the DA FSPEC 20" model. The Power supply is unique when compared to the 24 or 30" models I own. It employs a center "+" plug HOWEVER the connection is reversed. By that I mean to say if you attempt to plug it into an inexpensive dimmer you will find it connects BACKWARDS.

So all I did was cut the connections off my dimmer and reverse them. Easy Peezy.

Just ordered the 48" model for my 55. Love this lamp!

Tommy D


----------



## Glyphic

So I'm finally getting around to getting a light for my 75G. I was using two 30 inch lights, one of them a Beamswork DHL.

I was looking at getting the 48" FSPEC, this is a low-tech tank and I plan on dosing with Thrive-C. According to the chart it says this light should be around 42 PAR, is this good for a low-tech? I've had nothing but Algae problems with this tank and I'd like to get everything straightened out.


----------



## davemak

Hello, I have a 60 gallon planted tank. I have a long and tall branch that winds from the top of the tank to the bottom. I was wondering what the difference was between the 6500k DA light and the FSPEC one with 10k lights. It seems like people prefer to FSPEC because it makes their tank looks better without the yellow hue on the 6500k DA light. But I am assuming the DA light is better? 

Also should I stick with the Current USA Dimmer or a cheaper option? If so which cheaper option should I go.


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## moonwasaloon

Are these only sold on amazon and ebay? I cant find a 48" DHL 1 watt 6500


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## MasterofCloak

The dhl 1 watt led will last about six months before it dies. Go for the 0.50w models. Much better investment. I’m running 4 30” DA Fspec on a 120 and it works great. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Tol

Has anyone tried this NiCrew dimmer on the DA lights? NICREW Aquarium LED Light Dimmer, Easy Plug Dimmer Switch for 12 and 24-Volt LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F33H26V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2TdACbVWKQPKE

Seems decent for half the price of the Current one. Not many reviews but a couple of of them mention using it on 24" beamswork lights

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## milesm

Tol said:


> Has anyone tried this NiCrew dimmer on the DA lights? NICREW Aquarium LED Light Dimmer, Easy Plug Dimmer Switch for 12 and 24-Volt LED Strip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F33H26V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2TdACbVWKQPKE
> 
> Seems decent for half the price of the Current one. Not many reviews but a couple of of them mention using it on 24" beamswork lights
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


that is a manual dimmer. this is automatic with sunset/sunrise settings. looks like it should work with da fspec. i have one on order, will report back in a few days.


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## Leeatl

Thanks milesm for the link . I believe that timer/dimmer will work with beamswork LEDs so I ordered 2 . If they work that will make a affordable light even better .


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## milesm

Leeatl said:


> Thanks milesm for the link . I believe that timer/dimmer will work with beamswork LEDs so I ordered 2 . If they work that will make a affordable light even better .


well the fine print says that for one of their lights, the sunset/sunrise feature is not functional. so the jury's still out. i should be getting mine fri/sat.


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## Leeatl

Mine are supposed to be here Weds/Thurs . I have a dimmer made for the Beamsworks and it works on both of mine so I feel sure this one will too . It is just a programmable dimmer after all .


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## Tol

milesm said:


> that is a manual dimmer. this is automatic with sunset/sunrise settings. looks like it should work with da fspec. i have one on order, will report back in a few days.


Yeah I almost got that one. My only problem with it from what I have been reading on comments is that the clock needs to be reset if it loses power. The on/off programs stay I think though. I did get the manual dimmer and it works great on my fspec so far.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## Leeatl

I got mine this morning . Put on and setup , worked like a charm . Well worth $12 . They do lose the time if power goes out but not a big deal to me. They do keep the settings though . Setup was easy and the instrucs are easy to understand . I recommend them for Beamswork lights that can be dimmed .


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## milesm

Leeatl said:


> I got mine this morning . Put on and setup , worked like a charm . Well worth $12 . They do lose the time if power goes out but not a big deal to me. They do keep the settings though . Setup was easy and the instrucs are easy to understand . I recommend them for Beamswork lights that can be dimmed .


how are the sunset and sunrise features? 1) smooth ramp up/down; 2) adjustable duration of ramp; 3) if you have a killa-watt, does it reduce output? thanks.


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## clownplanted

milesm said:


> how are the sunset and sunrise features? 1) smooth ramp up/down; 2) adjustable duration of ramp; 3) if you have a killa-watt, does it reduce output? thanks.
> 
> Bump: i have a manual timer i bought for $6. it works fine but it cuts output about 10% (as measured by wattage from a killa-watt). had algae issues running it with
> 
> Bump: i have a manual timer i bought for $6. it works fine but it cuts output about 10% (as measured by wattage from a killa-watt). had algae issues running it with


What timer do you have? You should not be losing power with a timer. I would get a different one that does not.


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## milesm

clownplanted said:


> What timer do you have? You should not be losing power with a timer. I would get a different one that does not.


oops. sorry, i meant a dimmer.


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## Leeatl

milesm said:


> how are the sunset and sunrise features? 1) smooth ramp up/down; 2) adjustable duration of ramp; 3) if you have a killa-watt, does it reduce output? thanks.


The sunset/rise seems ok . I just saw the rise and I didn't watch it through the whole cycle . Duration of ramp is not adjustable...it is 15 minutes either way so if you set it to come on at 7 am it will ramp up to full intensity at 7:15 same with ramp down . Hope that makes sense . I don't know what a killa-watt is so I guess I don't have one....lol but I cannot see any difference between with the timer and without . I am more than pleased with the timers . I had the Beamswork timers before and all they can do is turn on or off the white and blue . I had them set to turn the blue on about a half hour before the white and turn off the white a half hour before the blue but was still a big shock when the white came on . With this both the blue and white come on slowly and the fish seemed to transition smoothly to their day...lol I admit they are not like the high dollar lights with the storm , fully settable sunrise/set ,etc , but for the cost you can't beat these . Like anything it depends on what you want/need , but for me these are more than useful . Time will tell about the reliability , but I am pleased at the moment .


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## Leeatl

Update....I have mine set to go off at 7:00 pm so I sat and watched my 30 long till it went off . The transition was very smooth , IE: could not see any thing but dimmer light , until it got to about 2 minutes left in cycle and then I could see each step lower . I hope that makes sense . I think that is a function of the Beamswotk light and not the timer . I am still very happy with this timer . It was fun watching the cories come out and hunt as the light got lower and the Platys start to calm down and rest . If it will work on your light , get one....lol


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## milesm

Leeatl said:


> Update....I have mine set to go off at 7:00 pm so I sat and watched my 30 long till it went off . The transition was very smooth , IE: could not see any thing but dimmer light , until it got to about 2 minutes left in cycle and then I could see each step lower . I hope that makes sense . I think that is a function of the Beamswotk light and not the timer . I am still very happy with this timer . It was fun watching the cories come out and hunt as the light got lower and the Platys start to calm down and rest . If it will work on your light , get one....lol


thanks for the review. sounds like what i'm looking for. looking forward to receiving mine.


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## jeffkrol

Leeatl said:


> I think that is a function of the Beamswork light and not the timer .


Technically more a function of your eyeballs..


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## vvDO

Leeatl said:


> Update....I have mine set to go off at 7:00 pm so I sat and watched my 30 long till it went off . The transition was very smooth , IE: could not see any thing but dimmer light , until it got to about 2 minutes left in cycle and then I could see each step lower . I hope that makes sense . I think that is a function of the Beamswotk light and not the timer . I am still very happy with this timer . It was fun watching the cories come out and hunt as the light got lower and the Platys start to calm down and rest . If it will work on your light , get one....lol




Is it possible to have 2 light cycles, ie. 2 on/offs?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Leeatl

vvDO said:


> Is it possible to have 2 light cycles, ie. 2 on/offs?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


No , only one on/off cycle.


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## Leeatl

jeffkrol said:


> Technically more a function of your eyeballs..


Maybe , but when the lights go down for the first 13 or so minutes I cannot see any demarcation of the difference . The last 2 minutes there is a fickler , for lack of a better word , each time the intensity changes . That is why I said it is probably the light not being able to handle the lowest dimming .


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## Tol

Alright, I may have to order myself one. I figured if I was away and the power dropped, it would suck for them to be off all that time. I could always just swap to my normal timer for that though. Good to know it works well. Hell even if the longevity of it isn't the best, they are still only $12.

Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk


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## milesm

Leeatl said:


> Maybe , but when the lights go down for the first 13 or so minutes I cannot see any demarcation of the difference . The last 2 minutes there is a fickler , for lack of a better word , each time the intensity changes . That is why I said it is probably the light not being able to handle the lowest dimming .


i set mine up today and watched the sunrise. it is perceptually very smooth and pretty much linear with respect to wattage. i'm impressed. btw, ghost wattage is 0.3. 

i'll look for the sunset issue that you noted tonight.


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## Leeatl

Glad you like it so far . BTW , excuse my ignorance but what is ghost wattage ?


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## milesm

Leeatl said:


> Glad you like it so far . BTW , excuse my ignorance but what is ghost wattage ?


i got the noticeable step down with 3 min left in the sunset. ghost wattage in this case is power that is drawn when the lights are off. despite the sunset "glitchiness", i like the timer. 

ps. please continue further discussion on this timer via private messaging. thanks.


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## dhou

I'm using the 

Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W (120cm - 48")

with the NICREW dimmer (https://amzn.to/2UCmwE8).

I'm noticing a low level buzz, louder as I increase the dimming. At about 50% dim, its not horrible but can definitely be heard if you are standing at the tank.

Wondering if anyone else is experiencing this? The ramp up and down is nice, but I'd be happy to move to the Current USA dimmer previously recommended if that one is absolutely quiet.


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## jeffkrol

dhou said:


> I'm using the
> 
> Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W (120cm - 48")
> 
> with the NICREW dimmer (https://amzn.to/2UCmwE8).
> 
> I'm noticing a low level buzz, louder as I increase the dimming. At about 50% dim, its not horrible but can definitely be heard if you are standing at the tank.
> 
> Wondering if anyone else is experiencing this? The ramp up and down is nice, but I'd be happy to move to the Current USA dimmer previously recommended if that one is absolutely quiet.



Defective..
Can't tell you which dimmer "may" be quieter because it's usually a matter of a defective board causing a "peizo effect"..See singing capacitors as well.

https://product.tdk.com/en/contact/faq/31_singing_capacitors_piezoelectric_effect.pdf

May be the design, may be just that board..


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## dhou

jeffkrol said:


> Defective..
> Can't tell you which dimmer "may" be quieter because it's usually a matter of a defective board causing a "peizo effect"..See singing capacitors as well.
> 
> https://product.tdk.com/en/contact/faq/31_singing_capacitors_piezoelectric_effect.pdf
> 
> May be the design, may be just that board..


Sorry if I'm being an idiot here - you mean the dimmer itself may be defective or it is poorly designed? The light itself is fine?


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## jeffkrol

That is what I suspect.. Or it's the power supply"ringing"..
The light head is diodes and resistor for the most part. Nothing that would make noise.

Capacitors or chokes or any coils could which are in the power supply but you need to pin point the noise.
If in the dimmer, it's the dimmer ..which btw doesn't have coils but will have capacitors..








https://www.electroschematics.com/9730/high-power-led-dimmer/


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## dhou

jeffkrol said:


> Defective..
> Can't tell you which dimmer "may" be quieter because it's usually a matter of a defective board causing a "peizo effect"..See singing capacitors as well.
> 
> https://product.tdk.com/en/contact/faq/31_singing_capacitors_piezoelectric_effect.pdf
> 
> May be the design, may be just that board..


The noise is definitely coming from the light itself - on the side and close to where the light switch itself is. The dimmer and the power supply for the LED light are silent.


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## jeffkrol

Well you got me then. The 2 were the odds on most likely spots for noise..

Not really much in the light head itself..
https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/threads/my-led-light-just-crapped-out.274785/


> The light is bright and has good color, however the AC converter is making a horrible loud high pitch mosquito noise..


https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-6500K-Lumen-Aquarium-Freshwater/product-reviews/B01FVNPZN2
Just an FYI..Also note the below is mostly referrring to AC leds w/ drivers built into the bulb itself..so much doesn't apply here..
https://lamphq.com/noisy-led-lights/



> Causes and corrective actions
> 
> The main cause of noise can usually be found in the LED driver of the lamp. With LED lamps, driver electronics are integrated; for example with LED ceiling lights, the driver is usually located in the base. This electronics consists of several components. These include:
> 
> Switching power supply
> Coils/chokes
> LED driver


Beamsworks have no drivers.. Constant voltage using resistors to limit the current.

OPP's forgot to ask.. You don't have their timer module hooked on as well do you?


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## Wobblebonk

That's just weird for there to even be anything by the switch that would hum. I don't have the nicrew dimmer but I have 5 S2-Pro dimmers and 3 of the potentiometer dimmers on beamsworks and none of them produce a humming noise, any hums I have are the cheap psus. Also the s2-pro does have enough time settings for split light cycles as well as you set the ramp time (theres 8 available time settings instead of the 15min ramp up / down time) and 1 ebay listing says it works up to 36v 100W though I haven't tested that. It also has a battery/doesn't lose the time (they all had weird times on arrival and moving them between tanks they didn't lose settings)


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## dhou

jeffkrol said:


> Well you got me then. The 2 were the odds on most likely spots for noise..
> 
> Not really much in the light head itself..
> https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/threads/my-led-light-just-crapped-out.274785/
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-6500K-Lumen-Aquarium-Freshwater/product-reviews/B01FVNPZN2
> Just an FYI..Also note the below is mostly referrring to AC leds w/ drivers built into the bulb itself..so much doesn't apply here..
> https://lamphq.com/noisy-led-lights/
> 
> 
> 
> Beamsworks have no drivers.. Constant voltage using resistors to limit the current.
> 
> OPP's forgot to ask.. You don't have their timer module hooked on as well do you?





jeffkrol said:


> Well you got me then. The 2 were the odds on most likely spots for noise..
> 
> Not really much in the light head itself..
> https://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/threads/my-led-light-just-crapped-out.274785/
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Beamswork-6500K-Lumen-Aquarium-Freshwater/product-reviews/B01FVNPZN2
> Just an FYI..Also note the below is mostly referrring to AC leds w/ drivers built into the bulb itself..so much doesn't apply here..
> https://lamphq.com/noisy-led-lights/
> 
> 
> 
> Beamsworks have no drivers.. Constant voltage using resistors to limit the current.
> 
> OPP's forgot to ask.. You don't have their timer module hooked on as well do you?


I do not have the Beamswork timer module hooked up, only the Nicrew unit.

Its a high pitched whine, not particularly loud to be honest, but can be heard when standing in front of the thank. With it at 100%, no noise at all.

Maybe I just happen to have a strange but defective light? Does not seem like any of the usual culprits here!

Thanks for everyone's feedback thus far!

David


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## jeffkrol

At 100% there is no "pulsing" of the voltage, just straight DC..

So the on/off current is setting up some sort of harmonic in the light head.
LED "chips" don't suffer from it.

Has to be either a capacitor on board or and ic somewhere on it .
Don't think resistors ever "sing"...

If you are handy I'd recommend a dis-assembly for a look see..
Pretty sure it comes apart quite easily..
https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/380801-beamswork-and-tc420-need-help/
Maybe check the board screws on the (unlikely) chance the al plate is vibrating..










You could contact "topdogsellers" on eek bay and ask if he ever heard about this..
Huge Beamswork seller there and at least in my experience, responds well to request even if not about a sale..


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## Aclman88

So this thread is awesome and unfortunately came too late since my optibright plus is passed the return window. I’ve decided to upgrade it a beamworks regardless but have a quick clarifying question. 

Can someone explain the major difference between these two lights and which would be better for a low-med light plant tank? Have some amazon swords, java fern/moss and Some reopens. 

Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W (60cm - 24") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFF07BU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YgLXCbXAQFVZZ

Beamworks Beamswork DA 6500K 0.50W Series LED Pent Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant Discus (60cm - 24") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FS6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_khLXCbHJA0BFD

Thanks In advance!


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## varanidguy

Aclman88 said:


> So this thread is awesome and unfortunately came too late since my optibright plus is passed the return window. I’ve decided to upgrade it a beamworks regardless but have a quick clarifying question.
> 
> Can someone explain the major difference between these two lights and which would be better for a low-med light plant tank? Have some amazon swords, java fern/moss and Some reopens.
> 
> Beamswork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater 0.50W (60cm - 24") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFF07BU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YgLXCbXAQFVZZ
> 
> Beamworks Beamswork DA 6500K 0.50W Series LED Pent Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant Discus (60cm - 24") https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N4FS6ZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_khLXCbHJA0BFD
> 
> Thanks In advance!


Either one of them will work, but you'll want to dim the light. They're both reasonably intense lights.


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## SkrimplyVixen

I am so thankful to have found this thread! Thank you to everyone that has contributed such valuable information about Beamswork light fixtures. I have read all 24 pages here, and it was a lot to absorb, so forgive me if I am asking for redundant information...and also if I get a bit long winded here lol. 

Long story short, I moved from Louisiana to Georgia and downsized to one aquarium. It was damaged by movers, but holds water so for now it's an unscaped holding area for the anubias, hornwort, duckweed, and java fern that made the move with me until the reimbursement check comes in and I can get new glass.

My tank is 25 inches tall and 36 inches long, 65 gallons. I looked at the chart that was posted, and am unsure if the "pent 0.50w timer 6500k" fixture is the same as the light that I currently have or not. It is a DA 36" 6500k .50w fixture, it does have 5 rows of white lights with a few blue ones mixed in, but it does not have a timer. It seems similar enough to me for the information in the chart to be accurate for my setup, but I wanted to ask rather than assume. My current low light plants are doing great with this light and I have no algae issues. I would like to try for a carpeted look in the new tank, maybe microsword or dwarf hairgrass, monte carlo, etc but I don't know if this light by itself can support that type of plant growth. I understand that at a certain point, CO2 injection becomes a requirement. I live in the north GA mountains, and every winter we have 2-3 power outages due to high winds and/or ice. We have a generator, but I'm still not sure if a high tech system would be the best option given the pretty much guaranteed outages that we experience. I am wondering if I buy an additional light exactly like the one I currently have, would it be possible to maintain a carpeted aquascape at 23" depth with ThriveC and ecocomplete soil or would I be sliding into CO2 territory? Has a carpeted scape ever even been successful without CO2 injection, or does it usually end up being a temporary success story for most folks that try it?


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## dbo

Read through this entire thing. Whew, it was a journey.

Question for those of you with experience with both the DA FSpec Pent and the 6500k Pent. Which one do you think would be better for growing plants or would it not be a significant enough difference to matter? I'm planning on running two of whichever light I go with on my 22 gallon tank with dimmer switches.


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## CatsMeow

This is great. It seems like in the past year or two, I've seen a lot more competition in the LED lights for aquariums. Nice to know we don't have to break the bank to grow some really great plants! Now, can someone please do this for the NICREW lights that I see on Amazon? I've got one ordered, but would be interested in the specifics! 

(Also, I'm curious how durable these lights are. Has anyone had their Beamworks or NICREW lights for an extended period of time? Most of reviews I read are from folks who have just gotten it and are amazed at how nice they look.


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## bettang

CatsMeow said:


> This is great. It seems like in the past year or two, I've seen a lot more competition in the LED lights for aquariums. Nice to know we don't have to break the bank to grow some really great plants! Now, can someone please do this for the NICREW lights that I see on Amazon? I've got one ordered, but would be interested in the specifics!
> 
> (Also, I'm curious how durable these lights are. Has anyone had their Beamworks or NICREW lights for an extended period of time? Most of reviews I read are from folks who have just gotten it and are amazed at how nice they look.


DA FSPEC has been durable for me for about a year now. The screws may start to rust but it's just the screws connecting the light to the plastic stand which you can easily switch out in minutes.


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## markf

Anyone use 2 DA FSPEC lights together/ Wondering what the par would be on 40 breeder.


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## [email protected]

markf said:


> Anyone use 2 DA FSPEC lights together/ Wondering what the par would be on 40 breeder.


I am actually wondering the same thing.
If one DA FSPEC outputs about 40 PAR at a 22" depth, does this mean that two DA FSPEC lights will generate 80 par at a 22" depth or will this just result in better coverage?


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## ryguystye

[email protected] said:


> I am actually wondering the same thing.
> If one DA FSPEC outputs about 40 PAR at a 22" depth, does this mean that two DA FSPEC lights will generate 80 par at a 22" depth or will this just result in better coverage?


Me too. I've got a 55 gallon that I'm trying to go high tech in. Should I get 2 of these? Or pick a different light if I want to go high tech?


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## vvDO

[email protected] said:


> I am actually wondering the same thing.
> If one DA FSPEC outputs about 40 PAR at a 22" depth, does this mean that two DA FSPEC lights will generate 80 par at a 22" depth or will this just result in better coverage?



Based on what I measured in my tank with another set of LED fixtures similar to BW... if you place the 2 fixtures really close together, you will have more PAR than a single fixture, it won’t double the light. If you space them about 6” or more apart, then you mainly get better coverage and you may see a slight increase in par directly under each fixture.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Grobbins48

ryguystye said:


> Me too. I've got a 55 gallon that I'm trying to go high tech in. Should I get 2 of these? Or pick a different light if I want to go high tech?


Check out my journal in my signature if you want more info on PAR levels for DA FSPEC and DHL 1W 6500k on a 55 gallon. I have tons of information on it there. Let me know if you have any other questions.


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## plantedman

Hi Guys,

I am just checking this thread. Should i buy FSPEC or any comparable for a Fully Planted 55 Gallons tank. Please advise.

Thankyou!


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## Grobbins48

plantedman said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am just checking this thread. Should i buy FSPEC or any comparable for a Fully Planted 55 Gallons tank. Please advise.
> 
> Thankyou!


This depends on a lot- What is the 55 gallon setup like? CO2 or no? Do you want a cooler light look or warmer look?

My 75 gallon journal used to be a 55 gallon where I ran the DA FSPEC and the DHL 1W 6500K. Take a look through it and you will see the comparison of color, PAR, etc. for those two lights.

Each light had it's pros and cons, but both were quite powerful, putting a tank in a medium-high light alone, and together the light output was quite high (I believe 150+PAR at substrate with no glass lids).

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/...nbowfish-tank-updated-dosing-2-17-2020-a.html


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## plantedman

Yes i have Pressurized CO2 with nano diffuser... Cooler or warmer... i am not sure.. but i want good plant growth...

Thankyou!


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## plantedman

Grobbins48 said:


> This depends on a lot- What is the 55 gallon setup like? CO2 or no? Do you want a cooler light look or warmer look?
> 
> My 75 gallon journal used to be a 55 gallon where I ran the DA FSPEC and the DHL 1W 6500K. Take a look through it and you will see the comparison of color, PAR, etc. for those two lights.
> 
> Each light had it's pros and cons, but both were quite powerful, putting a tank in a medium-high light alone, and together the light output was quite high (I believe 150+PAR at substrate with no glass lids).
> 
> https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/...nbowfish-tank-updated-dosing-2-17-2020-a.html


Hi Buddy,

Should i get this one ?

BeamsWork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwater


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## dow

Good afternoon (at least in Texas), and thanks so much for all of the info in this thread.

I have an Aqueon Econo hood on my 20H tank, and it's worked fine for several years. However, while the fixture still works, it's beginning to fail, and I could really use a new aquarium light. I'm seeing everything from $20 flood lights to multi-hundred dollar fixtures, and there are so many options out there that I'm not sure which way to jump. Obviously, I'm looking for something that will grow plants well, but lots of the lights that I'm seeing are designed to sit above the tank on rails or to hang as a pendant or from a gooseneck over an open top tank. Unfortunately, an open top tank isn't an option, since our cats think that aquariums are for fishing in.

Here's a picture of the LED layout in it. 


https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al2COy1EizML-j6sdpe-o8Km8qqs

The 9th LED from left, circled in red, is out, and that bank of LED's is starting to flicker occasionally.

Here's what the tank looks like with the current lights:


https://1drv.ms/u/s!Al2COy1EizML-kUuePgtcHCSmLFi?e=199fVL

I'm hoping to really increase the health and growth of my plants (some of which are several years old, but most of which I've only had for a couple of weeks.


Given that we all want as much bang for our buck as possible, and the information that I've learned from this thread, I'm thinking about going with a glass top and the BeamsWork DA FSPEC LED Aquarium Light Pent Freshwaterand a dimmer. My tank has a footprint of 24-1/4 x 12-1/2, and a substrate depth of probably 14" on aveage. the light is available in a 20" and 24" length. Will the 24" fixture really fit my tank, or will the plastic legs hang off of the ends of the tank? Also, will this light be a good match for my tank? 

Also, if the 24" WILL work with this tank, would it have enough light output to be used as a single light over a 40 breeder or possibly deeper 36x18" footprint tank?
Thanks for your thoughts and recommendations,
dow


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## jeffkrol

Legs are adj..



> You can slide those plastic stands in and out, to reach different length. Seller's answer that says those are stationary is incorrect. They do slide in and out, and then you secure them with screws that are attached, to reach your desired length.
> 
> Alternatively, you can take it out, and have the light sit flat and closer on your top glass cover. It has a groove that keeps the LED surface slightly higher than tank top cover. Which is a VERY GOOD design to keep everything safe.


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## dow

Thanks!

Any idea how a 24 would work on a 36" tank? (Trying to plan ahead)


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## 25cube2019

dow said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Any idea how a 24 would work on a 36" tank? (Trying to plan ahead)


I have 2 X 36" Beamswork DA FSPEC on my 40B with dimmers


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## dow

For those interested: Beamswork now has a dual channel timer with dimmer for their lights. On their Amazon ad, in the questions section, people had been asking about one, and they kept saying stuff like, "it'll be out in a few weeks." So I sent them a message and they responded with a link to their eBay listing for it. The eBay listing is under the title "Beamswork Rise Dim Dual Channel Timer Dimmer LED Aquarium Light Ramp Dimmer." The module lets you program both the regular and moonlight channels separately with on/off times, brightness levels (0-100), and immediate, 15 minute, or 30 minute ramp-up and down periods. It's working pretty good so far.

Standard disclaimers apply. I have no affiliation with beamswork. Just a satisfied customer.


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