# Attaching solenoid to regulator



## SLOBY (Feb 21, 2017)

I wouldn't think so, but i'm no expert. I would think that you would need some sort of tube or plumbing in between the reg and the solenoid. Can you post pic of your setup?


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

SLOBY said:


> I wouldn't think so, but i'm no expert. I would think that you would need some sort of tube or plumbing in between the reg and the solenoid. Can you post pic of your setup?


I'm not sure what you mean by my setup, sorry. This it it, the tube to the diffuser goes in the solenoid on the nipple facing away from the camera. And the regulator goes on the Co2 tank, just took it off for the picture 

What I am really puzzled by is, I have found absolutely NO pictures, drawings or videos of any kind of solenoid and regulator that is connected with a piece of tube. The small tube in the picture I made my self and tried to attach it that way, just to see if it was possible, which I haven't tested since my fish tank is not up and running yet.


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## SLOBY (Feb 21, 2017)

If you remove "B" from the reg could screw in the solenoid directly to the reg? I think I would try it in this order reg + A + C + D + B. I believe that "B" is a needle valve and that would be installed at the end of the configuration. You might have to purchase some sort of coupler to hook "A" into the reg.


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Thank you, that's a big help!

That was also my conclusion, after doing some more searching, waiting for a reply on my post and came back to read your reply 

B seems to be pretty firmly attached to the regulator and I'm a bit worried about using too much force trying to get it off.

But I'm still confused.. If I screw C on A, like you suggest, I guess I will need to cut the nipple on C off? I then remove B from reg and that would have to leave a female for C to fit in. B would then have a male to fit on the opposite solenoid connection facing away from the camera, which I think would not be possible, since that is also male (with a nipple on the tip).
If this is the "problem" you refer to that could be solved with some kind of adapter or coupler, well that doesn't make me less confused  and I would have no idea what kind of adapter that would be.


I'll just add that the end of D, facing away from the camera was attached in the hole on B facing upwards (without the black tube, I made and attached myself).

I just came across this picture










from this thread
CO2 tubing... under pressure! | APSA

Perhaps that is the only solution ?

EDIT: That doesn't really help either I guess, unless that adapter would fit between the needle valve part and the reg.


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## SLOBY (Feb 21, 2017)

You could certainly do it that way. All the configurations I have seen have the needle valve at the end of the configuration, but I don't see why you couldn't have it at the beginning between the reg and solenoid. I'm a novice when it comes to regs and I was hoping some of the other members with more experience would chime in. That said here is the exact configuration that i'm using. As far as parts need you can source them here...CO2 Regulator Parts | CO2 For Planted Tanks And Home Brewing


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

There are times when doing the process a bit different can really work better. First step might be to ask why you do not want to run a tube in that spot? Personal choice and no argument from me if you have reasons but this might be a good time to use tubing. It does make finding fittings much easier for me. One item that changes the question is what pressure you will be needing at the tank end. If using a diffuser that takes 50PSI, I lean away from tubing but if using a reactor which works on much lower pressure (10PSI?) I find it works good to simply go with finding a barb fitting with the correct threads to fit the hole and barb size to fit my tubing. 
I like this and now go that way on all my regs for some other points. I have stands where I hang anything like this and I find solid piping breaks much easier in the small sizes. Using tubing lets me get several parts off the CO2 tank and placed where they are out of the way when changing tanks. Out of the way means less chance for them to get broken! It also lets me place the needle valve, bubble counter and thing I actually need to see and reach often, in locations that better fit, while the CO2 tank stays back out of the way as well as more hidden. 
If still not settled on fittings, it might be worth thinking out of the norm.


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Thanks a lot for your inputs!
It sure made things more clear for me and it motivated me to give it another go at trying to get the needlevalve part of the regulator, which was NOT an easy task, as there is nowhere to get a good grip and it was tightened hard and with some seal.
But anyway, I managed and this is how it looks now:










As it's clearly seen, F doesn't fit into E and H doesn't fit into G.

Would this do the trick ?

CO2 Regulator Parts | CO2 For Planted Tanks And Home Brewing. 1/4" x 1/8"FPT Reducing Hex Nipple - Nickel Plated

And one of these for the G to H part:

http://www.diyco2regulator.com/18-npt-male-to-14-npt-femal-adaptor-nickle-plated

I'm not sure about the sizes on this thing (i'm not used to use inches but rather millimeters).

EDIT: I see that shop doesn't ship to my country.

PlantedRich:
You have some good points. The only reason I don't feel comfortable using tubing for this is, I read someone having trouble keeping the tubes on with the pressure, and besides, ALL the pictures I've found have the solenoid attached directly, so it doesn't feel "right" not to do it this way - hope it makes sense 

I'm gonna use a inline diffuser/reactor, so I guess that need some pressure.


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## SLOBY (Feb 21, 2017)

Contact the manufacture, they should have the thread size information for you then you can order what you need. BTW what brand of reg is it?


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Thanks, I'm gonna try contact them.

The Brand is Tunze, I believe it's german. The solenoid is Milwaukee.


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## SLOBY (Feb 21, 2017)

Here is the manual for your reg I believe......

http://www.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/TZ1113.pdf 


" Mounting
Pressure reducer 7077/3 always has to
be operated in vertical position on a CO2
cylinder.
The pressure reducer has been manufactured
in Europe for use on cylinders with a thread in
keeping with German standard DIN 477. The
designation of the thread is W 21.8 x 14. The
US model has the standard thread CGA 320
with another gland with thread.
Before connecting the pressure reducer to the
filled CO2 cylinder, use the pressure adjusting
screw (K) to close the valve (turn the screw
out, pressure = 0).
Use the union nut (S) to fit the pressure
reducer 7077/3 to the CO2 cylinder (V).
Please make sure that the sealing ring is dry
and not soiled or damaged. Next day, check
the fit of the union nut (S), and retighten, if and
when necessary.
Use the fine adjustment valve (L) to connect
the mounted CO2 unit to the gas outlet (O)
(see page 2: Example of use: Comline dosing
plant). "


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

That is great thanks !

My brother actually designs bolt, threads and so on for the industry, so perhaps the "21.8 x 14" means something to him - I'm gonna pass on that information.

Thanks a lot for taking your time.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Tunze ? German or possibly Italian? I was thinking the Italian. No matter, as it does bring around a common problem in either case, I believe. I'm guessing the threads on the reg will be slightly different than the solenoid due to different countries. This is a case where I often have to fall back on doing it the hard way but I have shops where I can do that. The hard way is to take the parts to the shop where I expect to find the correct threads type and size and than stand and try to screw things together. Not the easy thing when we don't know what diameter, what number of threads per inch and even the shape of the threads. 
I'm thinking the info from Sloby is the threads on the larger reg to tank fitting, not the fitting to match the solenoid. 
Sorry to say but this can be a real challenge with so many different ways to make a simple thread!


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

You are absolutely right. And for now my plan was to do exactly that, take the part to a shop or building depot and just try the options there.

I dont know if this help anything, since this is in millimeters, but anyway:


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

One of the truly fascinating/wonderful/ dumb things about plumbing is the fact that a fitting we call 1/4 inch is not actually something that measures 1/4 inch! I've not chased the story far enough to know but it seems that there was a 1" pipe that was actually that size but when you make it half that, the walls take a larger percentage so it can't actually be 1/2 inch and from there is really gets messy? What it gets down to is that actually measuring the opening or pipe is not getting us very far. 
My only hope is to find a place that has a board or gizmo set up to test fit one item into. That gives us what we need to know to go look for that size and thread count on the shelf. 
Anybody using this reg or solenoid that can give a guy good info on what the output size really is?
That would certainly save him some major guessing!! I've already proved I don't use these as I thought they were from Italy!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> in keeping with German standard DIN 477. The
> designation of the thread is W 21.8 x 14. The
> US model has the standard thread CGA 320


Just reg. to tank size.. Nothing about "internal" threads on the solenoid or regulator body.. WHICH is the real problem..

F and G are hose connectors..
May not be user replaceable.. 


> quick coupling pieces for hose Ø 6/4 mm with connecting nut


https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=de&u=http://bavariafluid.de/en/ventile/&prev=search

none of this really helps.............. 
Though the easiest thing may be to remove all the fittings down to the solenoid body proper..
See if its BSPT, NPT or metric.. I have no clue..

http://www.bavariafluidtec.de/images/pdfs/bmv/BMV61212Aquaristik.pdf
[email protected] uidtec.de
Difference between bsp and npt is sooo small yet so critical..

Coils 230V btw..


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Update

Thanks again for your input and suggestions.

I managed to find this:










Which fit perfectly between the regulator and solenoid:










Now I just need something like this:

https://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/0.html?orderId=88458819240606&productId=32838133951

To connect the needlevalve to the solenoid:










Unfortunately the only places I can find it is some US sites with expensive shipping and long delivery times and the above aliexpress seller with free shipping but even longer delivery times (30-35 days)

Only other option is using two other kind of adapters - I mean from 1/8 female to x and from x to 1/4 female.
But I might just go with the aliexpress option and just postpone the fishtank setup yet again


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Really different stuff to me so this is close to "wild guess" but since you have found a fitting that goes on the other side, that might mean that the other side will also match up to something common. Is the brass fitting you found something like a 1/4 to 1/8 reducer or some such? That "might" mean you could add a somewhat common fitting on this side to change it to match something on the needle valve? 
Do you have a real name for the brass fitting you have found? That will give a clue what threads and such might be needed now. Metric, BPT or the US common Npt? Gives a better place to start working out some names of what is needed.


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

You are absolutely right, that would probably make it easier to find something that matches the other side.

The one I found is simply 1/4 to 1/8 reducer, I didn't ask the shop for the technical name


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Just a small word of caution:
Fittings like 1/4, 1/8 BSPT and 1/4, 1/8 NPT WILL screw together, esp w/ short threads.... whether they seal is another story..
Take it from someone who has been down this road before...


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Thanks for the heads up. I already bought some sealing tape (or what the name is), I hope that will do it.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Winzdk said:


> Thanks for the heads up. I already bought some sealing tape (or what the name is), I hope that will do it.



Anaerobic Resin Compounds vs. Teflon Tape vs. Pipe Dope - China Locke Glue Industry


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Thanks again.
So what are you (or rather that article) saying? The sealing tape is not good enough for this?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Winzdk said:


> Thanks again.
> So what are you (or rather that article) saying? The sealing tape is not good enough for this?


Most "likely" not if there is a thread type mis-match....
I've has pipe dope not work either though..
Best shot is w/ anaerobic sealants..

Prefer not to get into there is no such thing as "sealing tape"..


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

I see.
I'm going safe and get the anaerobic seal.
Thanks again for your advice.


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Update

It's not pretty. Got the thread adapter (or whatever it's called) on ebay for like 4$.
I decided to first try with the teflon tape I already had. The anaerobic seal is really expensive, at least the one I could find.

I'm at work now, so I will test it later.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Critical comments but not meant to be mean but for future? That should work but maybe too much used? A common problem when we feel unsure, we work too hard! Understand that the tape is to do a very simple thing. As threads are made on each part, there are tiny differences in the two "ridges" that meet and that little difference can leave a very tiny little crack where gas can follow the threads/crack until it leaks out. So we put the tape on to seal the tiny crack! Think of putting the letter "U" down into a letter "V". Down at the bottom is the crack and we want to fill that crack with sealer or tape. If we were dealing with something really tough to seal like steam, we would need something special but for 50 PSI or less, we can use pretty much anything, silicone, sealing tape, chewing gum? But it doesn't take a lot of it as the crack is almost too small to see. 
No harm done and it will likely work but if it looks bad to you, you could take a sharp knife and trim off the parts of tape you see. That makes you look more like a pro!! But if you are not going to have lots of friends judge the work, I might put it under the stand and never worry about it! 
Either way, it is work that you have actually done while your friends may not have done any of it? We can always tell critics where the door is located.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

for future reference...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005P3KAU...t=&hvlocphy=9019191&hvtargid=pla-310014591286

https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Temperature-Sealant-Stainless-Fittings/dp/B001OI0TN0


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

Hey PlantedRich

Thank you very much for your input. Appreciated.
You are probably right, I might have used too much, it was pretty tight to assemble..
But I'm just gonna hide it away, so my pride will be fine 

Your post made me smile, thanks.


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## Winzdk (Dec 2, 2017)

jeffkrol

Thanks! That's way cheaper than the ones I could find (at least in my country) - less than half price.


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