# Lighting a 28" deep tank



## Artem (Nov 18, 2010)

I recently bought a 48"x28"x28" tank and Im having a bit of trouble deciding what to do with it. 

Initially I thought it would be too deep to do a planted tank but then I thought of using LEDs and stumbled upon the 50W and 100W cannons.

The only problem is they only come in 12000K, is this too blue for plants?
Has anyone else used these cannons on a planted tank?

If anyone has any lighting ideas for a tank of this depth Id love to hear them roud:


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## redfishsc (Aug 29, 2010)

I'm not a fan of those. Several reasons. 


Mainly, $500+ for a sleek looking but otherwise run of the mill 12K LED is just ridiculous. NO way I'd ever pay that unless that LED was something really special (it isn't). For $500, even a dunce could scobble together a DIY rig that would utterly shame this "Canon" in PAR output and light spread. 

Second, you'd need at least two of them for proper coverage and intensity. That's NUTS $$$$ for lighting a tank that size. 


You can buy 50 watt and higher white LEDs (6500K) at Ebay (look for "cool white" or "pure white" color selection). These LEDs will be similar in light output but much more reasonable in color temp for freshwater plants (5000 to 6500K).


They actually come in 10w sizes and up, and I'd be more inclined to use multiple 10w versions that a couple HUGE ones, if the cost was similar. The 10w will run cooler, and therefore, more efficient. The 50w versions probably get quite hot. 

http://www.satisled.com/10w-led-flo...hite-red-green-blue-yellow-for-chioce_p5.html


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

The tank has a 28" x 48" footprint. It makes little sense to use small diameter pendant lights to light up that big an area. You can get plenty of light from a T5HO fixture, so why go to LED lights? The 28" dimension does present problems, as far as achieving good spread of the light, to cover the whole substrate, but it can be done. If you hang a 4 bulb T5HO light, with good reflectors about a foot above that tank, you will have very good lighting for plants. Add a pressurized CO2 system, and you will have what you need to grow just about any plants you might be interested in.


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## Artem (Nov 18, 2010)

redfishsc said:


> I'm not a fan of those. Several reasons.
> They actually come in 10w sizes and up, and I'd be more inclined to use multiple 10w versions that a couple HUGE ones, if the cost was similar. The 10w will run cooler, and therefore, more efficient. The 50w versions probably get quite hot.
> 
> http://www.satisled.com/10w-led-flo...hite-red-green-blue-yellow-for-chioce_p5.html


You must admit, two 50W LEDs would look pretty sweet! But yeah, I guess I should be more realistic and look into doing a DIY rig. Thanks for the link.

You wouldn't know of any threads where there is a good journal type thing?



Hoppy said:


> You can get plenty of light from a T5HO fixture, so why go to LED lights?


I wouldn't mind T5s but its that shimmer effect I'm working towards. :red_mouth


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## Steve001 (Feb 26, 2011)

Artem said:


> I recently bought a 48"x28"x28" tank and Im having a bit of trouble deciding what to do with it.
> 
> Initially I thought it would be too deep to do a planted tank but then I thought of using LEDs and stumbled upon the 50W and 100W cannons.
> 
> ...


along with the other mentioned lighting possiblities you also have these fluorescent lights to choose from. 

*Colormaster Digital Imaging Florescent Lamps 
http://www.planetbulb.com/products/...-Self-Ballasted-Compact-Fluorescent--CFL.html

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/PowerCompact.html
6500 K Induction fluorescent 
http://www.gladiatorlighting.com/products/50W-SELF-BALLASTED-U-SHAPED-INDUCTION-BULB-MEDIUM.html 

* CRI is actually 93. Sunlight = 100. What this means is this bulb will very closely simulate noontime sunlight


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

You can get really high quality bare *90 watt* LEDs for $50 a piece. Another $40 for a driver and maybe $20 for a heatsink and $10 for a lens. $120 total for a monster that will put that Ecoxotics to shame.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

I am measuring 80-100 PAR at the substrate from my LED fixture. It sits 30" above the substrate and only half the LEDs have optics.


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

cggorman said:


> You can get really high quality bare *90 watt* LEDs for $50 a piece. Another $40 for a driver and maybe $20 for a heatsink and $10 for a lens. $120 total for a monster that will put that Ecoxotics to shame.



^^^roud:^^^ I've used the big BridgeLux led arrays for penetrating deep tanks with great [email protected] $46.00 They're a lot easier on the wallet too! Digi-Key - 976-1011-ND (Manufacturer - BXRA-C4500-00000)


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## Artem (Nov 18, 2010)

I'll go with the 50W Bridgelux LEDs
Would you guys be able to help me get a shopping list together? 

The part I'm most uncertain of is which drivers to use, and how to dim the LEDs...

Lets say Im going to go with six 50W Bridgelux LEDs and a 10"x10" heatsink for each LED. Would I need a separate driver for each LED? And which one?


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

Check out O2Surplus's thread: link


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## Artem (Nov 18, 2010)

cggorman said:


> Check out O2Surplus's thread: link


Thanks for that. Although he makes his own controller. Is there any analogy to the one in O2Surplus's thread?

I might ask a local electritian and see if he can make something similar.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

There are many that would work, but a quick look at the Meanwell ELN spec sheet show the ELN-60-27 would be a reasonable fit. The max drive current is a bit short of the diode max, but still above the test current. The ELN series is also dimmable (P or D suffix).


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## Artem (Nov 18, 2010)

Can someone explain how dimming works? Is there some knob on the Meanwell ELN-60-27 or do I need to get something else to be able to dim the LEDs?

Sorry for all the questions and thank you all for being so helpful


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

The dimming method depends on the driver. The ELN series I mentioned has three variations: no suffix (non-dimming), "D" suffix (0-10vdc dimming), and "P" suffix (PWM dimming). For example: ELN-60-27D would be a dimming model that accepts a 0-10vdc dimming signal. For both the D and P you need a separate 10v DC regulated power supply (basically a plug-in wall transformer like you would have for an answering machine or phone charger). The 10v supply then powers a potentiometer (similar to a rotary dimmer like you would find on a wall switch for a ceiling fan). The output from the potentiometer then wires into the driver's dimming circuit alongside the 110v AC power. They work in conjunction and simultaneously.

The PWM wires up the same way, but instead of a potentiometer, it uses a digital controller to manipulate the 10v signal.

Check www.rapidled.com under dimming accessories. They sell both a PWM dimmer controller and a potentiometer kit.

My personal preference is the "D" model.


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## fishykid1 (Apr 5, 2010)

Artem said:


> Can someone explain how dimming works? Is there some knob on the Meanwell ELN-60-27 or do I need to get something else to be able to dim the LEDs?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions and thank you all for being so helpful


The ELN-60-27 P is dimmed using a PWM (rapid LED has this, and it can control 3 strings or drivers). As Cggorman said, it still uses 10V but your paying another 60$ for the controller...

where as the ELN-60-27 D is controlled by a varying voltage under 10V. You can use a 10K potentiometer attached with a 10V Wall wart to supply the needed voltage to the power supply. (It's more simple than it sounds!) 


To be honest, before you spend that much money on a few LED bulbs. Look into doing. 

Look over at Nano-reef.com. There's one guy on there, his tag is evilc66 and he's a beast when it comes to LED's. I'm sure he can help you very well. (He's known as the LED god, by some.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

You got the D and P reversed Fishykid.


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## fishykid1 (Apr 5, 2010)

cggorman said:


> You got the D and P reversed Fishykid.


GAH I'm SO scatter brained this morning. Fixed it... I'm more familiar with the Buck-pucks, which is what I'm using on my fixture


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

Happens to us all. I constantly reverse wavelength/color values. I wouldn't normally worry about correcting that sorta thing, but I didn't want the OP any more confused than necessary!


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## Artem (Nov 18, 2010)

cggorman said:


> Check www.rapidled.com under dimming accessories. They sell both a PWM dimmer controller and a potentiometer kit.
> 
> My personal preference is the "D" model.


Thanks for that! I think I now have a complete list of things to get 



fishykid1 said:


> To be honest, before you spend that much money on a few LED bulbs. Look into doing.
> 
> Look over at Nano-reef.com. There's one guy on there, his tag is evilc66 and he's a beast when it comes to LED's. I'm sure he can help you very well. (He's known as the LED god, by some.


Thank you, Ill be sure to contact him before I buy everything.


SO! The list is

4 x 50W Bridgelux LEDs ~$184
4 x Meanwell ELN-60-27D ~$120
1 x 10" by 40" Heat sink ~$120
2 x double dimmers ~$22
Wire and Plug ~$20?
Total ~$466

Not as bad as I thought it might have been. Did I miss anything?


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

You will need some thermal adhesive to couple the stars to the heatsink.
Hanging or mounting supplies for the complete fixture.

I'm assuming you've got soldering supplies...

Lenses can be added at time if you decide you want them.


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