# Aquaclears for 55 gallon tank - Which one to go with



## Chrisinator (Jun 5, 2008)

Personally, it would probably be better running 2x AC 70s positioned on each end of the tank. 

Often, you want to have filters that are larger turnover (about 10-20x GPH) than your tank in order to maximize filtration. The GPH measurements are often on baseline and proposed the power of the filter but as the filter gets clogged, you lose some flow. 

Flow on the other hand can be adjusted and deflected in different ways.


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

Chrisinator said:


> Personally, it would probably be better running 2x AC 70s positioned on each end of the tank.
> 
> Often, you want to have filters that are larger turnover (about 10-20x GPH) than your tank in order to maximize filtration. The GPH measurements are often on baseline and proposed the power of the filter but as the filter gets clogged, you lose some flow.
> 
> Flow on the other hand can be adjusted and deflected in different ways.



Ohh okay. With there being two filters on opposite sides, would the best place for a heater be in the middle back wall? Just wondering if it would be a waste to have the heater near the tube that sucks the water in since the water would be cooled on the way out.


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## Speed (Dec 18, 2013)

I use two AQ 110 on my 55 and they run great!


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## Blackheart (Jul 5, 2011)

This is actually the setup I am running on my 55 currently and it works just fine. 2 AC 70 filters, one on each side of the tank. Not too much flow. The aquaclear filters speeds are also adjustable. 

And really it doesn't matter where you put the heater. It's gonna work the same anywhere in the tank.


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## Donald Corbett (Apr 1, 2015)

Two 70's work very well on 55. That's what I did before I switched to a canister. I had a 110 on there at one point but I think it was too much flow for such a narrow tank. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

Blackheart said:


> This is actually the setup I am running on my 55 currently and it works just fine. 2 AC 70 filters, one on each side of the tank. Not too much flow. The aquaclear filters speeds are also adjustable.
> 
> And really it doesn't matter where you put the heater. It's gonna work the same anywhere in the tank.


Thanks. How do I know how much I need to adjust the power of the filter? Would putting both on the lowest setting be good?


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

There's no right or wrong. Two filter give you a measure of safety but aren't really necessary. If you have the money go with two filters if not the 110 will do.


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## The Dude (Feb 8, 2011)

I think filtration has more to do with inhabitants and stocking than tank size. Unless you have a Betta or other long finned fish that doesn't like current I would keep them at full flow. As mentioned they slow down tremendously as they clog


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

The Dude said:


> I think filtration has more to do with inhabitants and stocking than tank size. Unless you have a Betta or other long finned fish that doesn't like current I would keep them at full flow. As mentioned they slow down tremendously as they clog


okay got it. Are neon tetras and shrimp okay with lots of flow?


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## Chrisinator (Jun 5, 2008)

jcmv4792 said:


> Ohh okay. With there being two filters on opposite sides, would the best place for a heater be in the middle back wall? Just wondering if it would be a waste to have the heater near the tube that sucks the water in since the water would be cooled on the way out.


Either spot should work for heater placement as it will push water around. You can either place it near the inlet of the filter or place it to a spot where there is high flow.


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

Chrisinator said:


> Either spot should work for heater placement as it will push water around. You can either place it near the inlet of the filter or place it to a spot where there is high flow.


Is the inlet the place where water goes into the filter? Sorry, but I'm still catching up with all the terminology.


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## AquaAurora (Jul 10, 2013)

I ran an aquaclear 70 on my 55g after I moved it to a lower table that was too low to use the canister filter. Stuffed as much ceramic and bio media form the canister filter in the HOB and stuffed a foam pad from the canister on top to hold it the bio balls as such down. Cycled a sponge filter in the tank while the HOB ran for a few weeks then pulled the aquaclear70 off. My 55g is a riparium and packed full of plants on top so wanted the space back the HOB was taking. While it was on it was ok for filtration but for decent flow you'd need a power head of another Aquclear (i had mine on the right side wall, left side of the tank was kinda stagnant)


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

*Filtering a 55 G Tank*

Hello jc...

Don't get talked into over filtering your tank. Filters aren't designed to keep the tank water clear of dissolved wastes, which is what will make the water unliveable for the fish and plants. I keep several 55 to 60 gallons tanks and the key to a healthy tank isn't high end filtration that's expensive, it's removing and replacing a lot of the water and doing this weekly. Water is cheap.

Hagen (Aquaclear) has a good product. An AC70 is plenty for a 55 gallon tank, you don't need more. You just need to follow an aggressive water change routine. This is the true filter, not the mechanical plastic box that hangs on the back. At best it's a good means of mixing oxygen into the tank water.

B


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

BBradbury said:


> Hello jc...
> 
> Don't get talked into over filtering your tank. Filters aren't designed to keep the tank water clear of dissolved wastes, which is what will make the water unliveable for the fish and plants. I keep several 55 to 60 gallons tanks and the key to a healthy tank isn't high end filtration that's expensive, it's removing and replacing a lot of the water and doing this weekly. Water is cheap.
> 
> ...



That's good to know. I was under the impression that planted tanks did not need that much water changes compared to non-planted tanks. How much water changes(and of what amounts) would I need for a 55 gallon with mainly moss?


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

*Your Tank*

Hello again jc...

It doesn't matter what's in the tank or how many there are. You should be removing and replacing at least half the water every week. The longer water stays in a tank, the more it changes chemically. Soon, it has so much dissolved waste in it, it can't support what lives there.

Nature is constantly removing and replacing the water, so the fish and plants always have pure water conditions. We must do the same if we want to keep our fish and plants a long time. So, remove and replace a lot of water. At least 50 to 60 percent every week (or more). This will guarantee a healthy environment for your fish and plants, because there's no time for wastes to build up to toxic levels before you remove them through the water change.

Tank keeping is so simple, just be a good "keeper of the water".

B


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

BBradbury said:


> Hello again jc...
> 
> It doesn't matter what's in the tank or how many there are. You should be removing and replacing at least half the water every week. The longer water stays in a tank, the more it changes chemically. Soon, it has so much dissolved waste in it, it can't support what lives there.
> 
> ...


Thank you, I will keep this in mind. So the waste inside the water is not "eaten" up by bacteria or other animals(shrimp, snails)?


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## jcmv4792 (Jul 15, 2015)

BBradbury said:


> Hello again jc...
> 
> It doesn't matter what's in the tank or how many there are. You should be removing and replacing at least half the water every week. The longer water stays in a tank, the more it changes chemically. Soon, it has so much dissolved waste in it, it can't support what lives there.
> 
> ...


Going over this thread, there seems to be people who have success without doing water changes. Though these are tanks that have mostly moss and a small number of fish in them. What are your thoughts on this?

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=99729


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## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

Let your nitrates tell you when to change your water, its a good indicator of how things are doing. Its not the only thing to observe but its a good start.

If you are able to maintain low nitrates (5-10ppm) and only do 1 water change a month fine. But if after 2 weeks your at 40ppm then you need to be doing more and bigger water changes. The more fish you have the more you will need to change and more often. 

I have a single betta in a big tank and only do 50% biweekly. In my main community tank I do 60% weekly. Some people can do once a month, while others need to do 2x 50% weekly. Its all Dependant on many things. But the nitrates can be a good first sign.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Filters do several things. 

They 'filter' as in 'remove things from the water', and circulate the water which allows faster gas exchange at the surface. 

You can put several sorts of media in the filter to trap different things, but these things are still in the system as more water keeps flowing through the filter. Cleaning the filter is how things are removed from the system that have been trapped by the filter. Removing water from the tank, gravel vac, grooming the plants, hand removal of things is also how things are removed from the system. 
The amount of removal of all the things is dependent on how fast these things accumulate. If there is very little going on, little accumulation of all the things that need removing, then smaller filter volume, or less frequent cleaning are OK. 

Gas exchange benefits the fish by adding oxygen. You very quickly realize how dependent they are on water movement when there is a power outage. 

Water circulation circulates the oxygen, CO2 and fertilizer so the fish and plants get a constant, steady supply. You can provide water circulation with a power head. Or use a smaller filter, and add a power head set up so they work together to enhance the circulation. 
Some fish come from fast moving water, and have a reduced ability to get oxygen, so they need to be in a set up that provides highly oxygenated water. Good water circulation, plenty of gas exchange. 

Just for water movement, here are some very rough guides:
Under 10x the tank volume per hour: Good for poor swimmers like long finned or flat sided fish. Good for delicate plants. There will highly likely be dead spots that accumulate debris. Good for adding CO2 because the slower flow reduces gas exchange. 
About 10x: A mid-range amount, about right for most community fish, OK for most plants as long as they are not in the direct flow. 
Closer to 20x: A good Hillstream Loach tank, but this is pretty hard on the plants. 

Water flow and filter type:
Faster flow will be best filtered with a larger mass of filter media to trap, and re-trap the debris. Most canisters, sumps and the Aquaclear style filters can handle this fast flow.
Slower flow is needed for the cartridge style media. It is so thin that the debris gets blown off and there is not enough thickness of media to re-trap it. It goes back into the tank several times before getting trapped. 

I run the AC 70 on tanks from about 40-50 gallons, and have on 50 gallon with an AC 110. This is a lot of flow! 
For fast water fish I add a power head to the tank, so (mostly) the volume in the filter is consistent with the tank size.


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## DavidZ (Nov 17, 2009)

On board with Diana, I run 2 AC filters on my tanks (added filtration, plus for safety, just in case one goes down, same with the heaters).


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## Proteus55 (Feb 17, 2014)

I change the water in my 55 gal. planted tank one a week, 1/3 each time, and find this keeps all the parameters at an optimum level. I have an Eheim canister that works very well and is virtually silent.


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## windelov (May 30, 2015)

Before I rescaped my 30 gal I was doing a 17% water change once a week, just in an effort to help replace trace elements. Chems were rock steady every day, regardless of water change. Have a 250gph hang-on-tank canister, so circulates the water a little less than 10x an hour 30 gal tank). All depends on stocking and composition of tank how often you should/have to change water.


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