# Super low tech - Fluval Edge



## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Hey everyone,

 I am just wondering if you could help with my tank design. 

I am currently looking at doing a planted tank with the Fluval Edge. I do not want to run any C02 or make huge modifications to the lights etc...

What I am looking at is replacing the standard bulbs with some GU10 units. Spec is 5000k in day white, 475 Lumens per bulb, 120 degree angle. 

This will have replaced connectors and leads and transformer as required for the GU10 type bulb.

The cost of this is around £60 total 

I have seen a very good modification with a supermini heater to into the back of the HOB. I currently already have a deltatherm heater but I don’t want it visible so am waiting to find out about the other heater.

I am also trying to find some spray to spray the HOB intake black so it is masked against the Black Fluval edge. Obviously this needs to be hardy and waterproof so any ideas appreciated.

With the design itself I am looking at getting two peices of bogwood. One taller piece on the left hand side of the tank near the rear corner and then one piece 2/3rds the size ro the right and slightly closer to the front of the tank.

I then want to create some sort of moss carpet around the bogwood. I am not sure what type is best for my proposed tank conditions but something that requires little maintance I only need to trim every couple of weeks/one month and that will last more than year without needing to be replaced.

I then wanted to plant a couple of ever so slightly taller plants around the perimeter of the bog wood to mask the wood into the tank. Something only a few inches tall then last I want to put something that is going to grow taller for the back of the tank that will create a colour accent the smoke wood colours of the bog wood. The bog wood itself will not have any plants on and I will see how it grows to weather this will change in the future.

Any help with the set-up and plant choices would be most appreciated. It needs to be pretty low maintenance but I am happy for water changes 1-2 times a week. I just don't want to add loads of other nutrients etc to the tank.

Fish wise I was looking at a shoal of Neons (around 6) and just a few kuli loaches and that’s it.

Thanks for looking and any help most appreciated.

Kind Regards,
Adam


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Further to my initial post I have done some more research and it appears that something like Java moss would be good for the carpet.

Tropica Sword and/or some type of Anubias.

Java Fern and/or Rotala Rotundifolia for the rear of the tank.

Is there anything else I should be looking at. I know these are pretty much the normal.

I am also using quite large black gravel as my substrata so not sure what difference this will make to my choice of plants. Obviously the moss will be attached to slate pieces so not a problem there just not sure about the other plants.

Thanks for help.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## Tsartetra (Oct 20, 2003)

Curlyriff said:


> Further to my initial post I have done some more research and it appears that something like Java moss would be good for the carpet.
> 
> Tropica Sword and/or some type of Anubias.
> 
> ...


Java moss is definitely the easiest to grow, though many don't like the look of it (some think it looks too 'messy'). I would recommend it along with the others you chose: Jave Fern and R. Rotundifolia. Very easy beginner plants that look nice, IMO.
However, you did not mention the size of the tank you are considering...


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Sorry its to go into a Fluval Edge tank so only 23ltr (6 US gallons).

Thanks for the advise, I don't mind the look of Java moss and should give somewhere for the Kuli loaches to enjoy while still being quite well hidden.

Thanks,

Adam


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Anubias nana 'petite' would be the best one for your size tank IMO.

And Krylon Fusion is the paint we use over here in the US, IDK if that's available in the UK or not?

I'd encourage you to consider other mosses than Java if you want a nice carpet- Christmas moss or Fissidens would grow more compact. I think Java moss will grow up and all around and not really carpet much at all. Fissidens would probably be the best choice, as you won't have to constantly trim it down.

Marselia minuta, Lilaeopsis mauritiana, or Echinodorus tenellus 'micro' would also be some good carpeting plants to consider.


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

*Thank You*



> Anubias nana 'petite' would be the best one for your size tank IMO.
> 
> And Krylon Fusion is the paint we use over here in the US, IDK if that's available in the UK or not?
> 
> ...


Thank you for all your reccomendations I will do some reaserch into the plants you have mentioned. 

I was told about the Fissidens but couldn't for the life of me remeber the word till you posted as I saw someone else use this as a carpet effect and this looked very good too.

Thanks for the help so far and any other recommendations and/or other information that you all have would be most usefull. 

I am reading through the other Edge topics as well as many small nano tank topics to try and get good info so thank you for your time.

Edit: Has anyone got any ideas for mid to background plants. I like the look of the Anubus Petite and this I think would make for a good mid-back transition plant but I need something that grows to around 5-6cm for mid ground

I also need a plant that grows around 20-25cm for the back ground. 

The carpet I don't want more than 3-4 cm max so makes the Java moss unlikely.

Am thinking either Marselia Minuta or Fissidens moss for the carpet. 

Then I can place a few Anubus Petite just behind my bogwood. This can have a few taller plants placed behind them. 

Hopefully this will give it a good transition of hight while not overcrowding the tank.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Based on what a couple have said so far I have put together a little plan of approximatly what I would like to do with the tank.

I have attached a PDF for you to view. Hopefully this will give an idea of what I am going for. I know this isn't the same as photo's with actual peices of wood but the sizes are shown proportionatly to what I would be looking for. 

I am currently cyclingt he tank so don't want to change anything until that is complete.

Hope this makes sense and you could comment with ideas etc.

Kind Regards,

ADAM


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Looks like a nice plan to me!

If you find that Java ferns have too big of leaves (may block light from the lower plants) one of the small Crypts like C. lutea might be a good substitute as a background plant.


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks for the input. Glad you think it looks OK as a base plan, may take some time to find the right piece of bogwood and slate to fit and suite the shapes required but I am in no rush.

At the moment I have a larger gravel substrata in black which I like but woudl I be better to use some black sand instead for the substrata. I don't really want to use loads of ferts or anything like that. It needs to be as low tech as possible due to long working hours (although I am on here now allot).

Thanks for the plant suggestion I have plenty of time to look into this while the tank cycles. Sounds like a good idea though as I am only using low light.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Hey everyone,

Just wonder if there is any other thoughts about mid/rear plants. I have been looking around for the last few days and trying to get plants that will grow pretty slow and have a good tier effct is a little hard when the tank is only 10" high. 

It appears that christmas/Fissidens moss or similar is best to carpet with tropica swrds and Anubias nana 'petite' as a fore/mid ground plant to brake this up with some height but not too much. 

After that I am not sure what to do. The Java fern seems to grow too big. I know the Am finding it difficult to locate any decent info on the crypts plants and all the varieties that are availible. I know they all have different conditions and heights so not sure if I shuold only look at the C. Lutea or others as well.

Any help with this to further my design and ideas are appreciated. 

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

I have jsut attached the 2nd design based on what input I have had from a few sites and plant recomendations at the moment. Any further input and/or advise would be appreciated.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## PinoyBoy (Mar 14, 2008)

Get another variety of java fern. Most Microsorum pteropus (java fern) philippines stay fairly small. Mine stayed perfectly well sized in my old jbj picotope; I'm guessing less than 8 inches for a year and a half. Also same for java fern trident. Most if not all tridents I've seen have stayed fairly small unlike regular java fern which can grow taller than 1 foot. I've never seen a trident in person so I'm not so sure if they do stay small.

As for the sand, caribsea tahitian moon sand is perfect if you want black sand.


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

> Get another variety of java fern. Most Microsorum pteropus (java fern) philippines stay fairly small. Mine stayed perfectly well sized in my old jbj picotope; I'm guessing less than 8 inches for a year and a half. Also same for java fern trident. Most if not all tridents I've seen have stayed fairly small unlike regular java fern which can grow taller than 1 foot. I've never seen a trident in person so I'm not so sure if they do stay small.
> 
> As for the sand, caribsea tahitian moon sand is perfect if you want black sand.


Cheers PB for the inout. I will have a look around then t see what the two plants you mention are like adnd if they would be better suited. 8" sounds just about right for my tank if that's how big they get.

I am more wondering if sand is needed or I can use the gravel I currently have. It is large gravel at about 2mm Dia. and am not sure if any of these plants need sand for there root systems. 

I know the moss obviously doesn't but not sure if I can just weigh the other plants down and that is good enough for them or they need to take nutriants form the substrata itself. I read somewhere most aquatic plants take it through the water itself and their leaves but want to make sure.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## PinoyBoy (Mar 14, 2008)

Also another type of javafern you can check out is java fern windelov. Check out this tank from *.Q.* he said it's a 55 gallon. Assuming that it's a standard 55 and the measurement is 48x13x20 (inches). The windelov is the bottom center of the tank below the driftwood. I've read online that the max height of windelov is around 8-10 inches. The windelov on this tank looks mature and around 9inches in height.



.Q. said:


> View attachment 23658


It is sometimes reffered to as java fern lace also.


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Cheers again PB,

It looks like it wuold be really good for my tank and fill it out at the back nicely so that I don't have large gaps between stragly plants. 

This with the swords in the front and a nice carpert of moss should give good textures and colour shades for the tank in comparison to the gravel and the bogwood/stone. 

oepfully I can find some at my LFS and I am going to go this weekend to see if I can find the right pieces of bogwood or stone required for my tank. 

I want something that will not look out of place with the black gravel so either the dark brown bogwood or some sort of greyish stone are required. 

I can then get the plants once the tank has cycled. I will wait a few weeks for the plants to establish before adding any fish so I assume I will have to give them something for nurtients until the fish arive. 

Someone mentioned to me that the plants can get what they require with ammonia/nitrite or nitrate and allot of people in America use Nitrate as this isn't leathal to the fish in the tank until it is really high?

For long term once my fish are in will they produces therequired nutriants for the plants as I have mentioned before I don't reall want to dose anything to keep them living. I don't mind if they grow really slow though. 

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Plant nutrient demand is directly driven by light- the more light, the faster plants grow, the more nutrients they need.

Stick with low light levels, an adequate bioload, and you minimize the need for supplemental ferts.

I personally don't dose ferts on any of my tanks, I keep them all at a light level where they can obtain what they need from the fish waste and substrate (I use flourite and mineralized topsoil in all my tanks). I do use root tabs with larger plants like swords and the bigger crypts, though. I keep my nitrates in the 5-10ppm range on most of my tanks.


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> Plant nutrient demand is directly driven by light- the more light, the faster plants grow, the more nutrients they need.
> 
> Stick with low light levels, an adequate bioload, and you minimize the need for supplemental ferts.
> 
> I personally don't dose ferts on any of my tanks, I keep them all at a light level where they can obtain what they need from the fish waste and substrate (I use flourite and mineralized topsoil in all my tanks). I do use root tabs with larger plants like swords and the bigger crypts, though. I keep my nitrates in the 5-10ppm range on most of my tanks.


Thanks laura,

Is there anyway to know or calculate the required nutrients for the plant system? Is it just experiance?

I am worried that with my size tank that there will not be enough of an adequate bioload that would be able to support all the plants in the tank. 

Should I just add all my Tropica swords, java fern windelov or whatever I go for with root tabs. I haven't got any substrata like flourite or mineralized topsoil and not really wanting to add that either.

As you know I have very low light anyways with two halogen 10watt bulbs for a 6 gallon tank, pushing uot a coulour around 4000k or around that.

I have said that I will change to some better LED lights but want to try the tank with these first for the short term.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Every tank is so different in terms of plant load vs bioload that you'll just have to trial and error it.

LEDs are so new to the FW side of the hobby that I don't have any clue where those will put you, either (Hoppy might have a better idea, he loves calculating and figuring all that out :smile.

But one of the nice things about low tech setups is that in general things go much more slowly- so you have time to spot and do a bit of trial and error to figure out the best way to address any nutrient deficiency you might develop.


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

Thanks again,

The help is most appreciated. Can't wait to start actually aquascaping. Thanks for the explination and it makes sense about the low tech, should give me most opporunatity to learn all this. 

Hopefully hoppy will notice this theread and give me some advise on the lighting then so I know where I am with low/medium/high lighting etc.

Kind Regards,

Adam


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## Curlyriff (Sep 7, 2010)

hey everyone, just thought I would post on here a few pics of the tank. Sorry about really bad quality. This is as far as I have got at moment with my tank. 

I have a load of Xmas moss ready to be used for carpeting areas and maybe over the other bogwood but not sure at moment.

I got given the plant on the right as off cuts from a friends so I don't know what it is or even if it will survive, grow in these conditions. 

I picked up some Seachem Prime for the water conditioner, some Flourish Excel to help give Carbon to the tank and also for any little algea outbreaks while I fishless cycle. 

I have also ordered some TPN+ to give the plants all the other nutrients required. Hopefully because of the amount of plants and size of tank I should only need to dose really small amounts. 

The two Seachem products only require around 0.25ml for my tank as either the daily dose or water change accordingly. 

The plant at the back I believe is Anubis Nana and I am not sure on the type of moss on the other piece of bog wood this came straight from the LFS pre-done and already soaked like the Anubis. 

The other two I have soaked over night in boiling water and scrubbed them etc to get some the tannings out but people say it would be benificial to the fish anyways and I don't mind the slight brown colour the water goes. Kind of looks natural anyways.

I have added two MR11 bulbs that claim to be 150lumens and 6500k each which isn't bad and they do give allot more blue light over a much better spread than the standard halogens. 

Anyways here is the pictures.


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