# Orphek OR strip lights



## Marko_Sp (Jun 5, 2010)

120W cooled with what? funny...


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

Wow, that's a really good price. $120, 140, and 160 for the 24, 36, and 48 inch strips. They're passively cooled, but I wonder how well the color blends on a strip like that


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Geoffrey2568 said:


> Wow, that's a really good price. $120, 140, and 160 for the 24, 36, and 48 inch strips. They're passively cooled, but I wonder how well the color blends on a strip like that


They already in EU. From the YouTube videos I've seen they look just like BML strips. They don't have any sort of legs though so hanging only but that shouldn't be an issue.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=1743958338996803&id=170548713004448

The comments on that post has 2 short videos over 2 planted tanks.

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Spectrum of the freshwater one. 6750K temp. I'm really digging it.










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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Hmmm.. 
Also imported the curve to SPECTRA.
Though the x,y CIE coordinates are almost identical K temp is different..
There seems to have been a "correction" in CIE??










no matter really.. just a curiosity.
CRI is about 90 according to SPECTRA..and mostly that "low"  due to the cyan dip..
10 3W cyans would push it to 98...though that's assuming a lumen output of the bar is 2000
D65 "perfection" is slightly above the black locus line at the higher K's..As to my understanding of it all.
Shifting from a pink tone to an aqua one.
Pretty sure people would prefer it w/out the 10........


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

jeffkrol said:


> Hmmm..
> Also imported the curve to SPECTRA.
> Though the x,y CIE coordinates are almost identical K temp is different..
> There seems to have been a "correction" in CIE??
> ...


SPECTRA is a really neat tool, but I'm beginning to wonder, how reliable is it? It never seems to align with a product's descriptions. For example, here with Orphek, but also when you plugged in the EB strip's curve or the BML spectrum


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Geoffrey2568 said:


> SPECTRA is a really neat tool, but I'm beginning to wonder, how reliable is it? It never seems to align with a product's descriptions. For example, here with Orphek, but also when you plugged in the EB strip's curve or the BML spectrum


I basically consider it more of a fun toy at this point to get within a ballpark. A very large ballpark.

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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Geoffrey2568 said:


> SPECTRA is a really neat tool, but I'm beginning to wonder, how reliable is it? It never seems to align with a product's descriptions. For example, here with Orphek, but also when you plugged in the EB strip's curve or the BML spectrum


One of the reasons to plug as many things in as I can find..
Still.. need RAW data..
Only one where things were WAY off was Citizens COB's really and some of the power is guesstimates so there is that.
Luminous Studios 5600K = 5620 93CRI
Luminous studios 3000k = 3440K 98CRI at "A" 2856
Sunplus 6500k = 5560K 92CRI
Luxeon C (which I believe is ths same as Sunplus w/ different lensing) 5590K 92CRI
Fluence Greenhouse (stated 5000k) 4260K , 76CRI
ADA Green 8470K, 85CRI
T5 6500k 5100K 88CRI
Bridgelux 5000k 4670K ,77CRI
SORRA 5000K 5000k, 98CRI @ D50
CREE Vesta 5000k 4810K 98CRI @ D50
90CRi Luxeon at 6500k 6370K 97CRI @D65
Kessil Tuna Sun (6000-9000K) 6060K , 91CRI
Citizen 4000K high CRI 3950, 85CRI @D50
Luxeon Crisp White 3270K, 75CRI
Nichia 5000k95CRI 4880K 99CRI


You decide..
CIEUVW (1984) and CIE1931 are not the exact same standard but I need to find a statement of the differences..
Grid will be the same.. interpretation may be different:
x=0.3114 x=0.3120
y=0.3047 y=0.3045

for all intents and purposes are pretty darn equal

You know manually plotting dots on a graphic IS NOT the most accurate thing..there is that to contend with..
Change from "c 6500K" to D65 as well (1931 vs 1964)



> The CIE introduced three standard illuminants in 1931:
> 
> A: Incandescent bulb simulator
> B: Daylight simulator (direct)
> ...


Tying together CRI and "illuminant" is interesting..
Difference between 6500k and 7500k to the "eye" is inconsequential for most.
6500K will sell better though..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

So then why do you tend to treat Spectra as gospel? It's often wrong way more times than it's right.

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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> So then why do you tend to treat Spectra as gospel? It's often wrong way more times than it's right.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk


first it's a tool ..Actually best "we" got short of our own spectrophotometer..
second I said , you decide.. You see more "errors" than I do actually. 
No, I don't expect it to be within +/- 10K considering the translation factor..


I think it works just fine.. you don't, like I said decide for ones self..
The main chips I was concerned with match the "calculated" values quite closely..

glass half full or half empty???
I present it to present it.. if someone treats it as Gospel that is their choice..

If you have a better "estimator" I'm all earrs .

left out the fresh fish purposely to avoid that "conflict"... 

it's DATA, accept it or reject it.. hopefully based on more than "should be" or "I believe".....

Manuf tolerances and lot variation is probably more than the SPECTRA errors..


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I'm not sure I understand the placement of the leds seems inconsistent spacing of colors, but is that actually a "blue" dip instead of cyan somehow? I have a real hard time believing that what is missing is 10 more 3w cyans :O 490 is cyan no?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> I'm not sure I understand the placement of the leds seems inconsistent spacing of colors, but is that actually a "blue" dip instead of cyan somehow? I have a real hard time believing that what is missing is 10 more 3w cyans :O 490 is cyan no?


Actually straddles the line a bit between blue and cyan..so you are correct..
Blue-green covers some of the blue but not all..
Spectrum is from BLUE-green to blue-GREEN if you get my drift.

Either really works but adding cyan adds "separation" to the green to blue green colors of plants.
blue Lux led 460-480
cyan 490-510

Preferably would want 490 cyans over say 510's..

Green adds to the visual sensitivity like any "green" diode".. w/ the added blue in cyans.

Life's a compromise.
Adding both would be more ideal..yes.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I was thinking maybe lighting a 80 or 120g tank with 2 of these + 8 cyan and 8 blue, but I'm not sure a single bar between the other 2 will cover enough area. I also don't want to make 2 additional bar leds :/ maybe I'll just hold off on the supplemental bar for the time being.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> I was thinking maybe lighting a 80 or 120g tank with 2 of these + 8 cyan and 8 blue, but I'm not sure a single bar between the other 2 will cover enough area. I also don't want to make 2 additional bar leds :/ maybe I'll just hold off on the supplemental bar for the time being.


you don't really need it and the problem w/ adding blues is you push the color temp way up..1 blue to 10 cyans would keep you more in the lower K zone (8330) Accelerates into reef territory after that.
Some would be fine w/ it some not.

all of that is assuming only 2000 Lumens out of the Orphek.. Way low of an estimate. I'll need to fix that point.
Forgot how may watt there are.
to put it in wattage estimates.. real Orphek lumens/ 2000 = # of blues Real Orphek lumens divided by 2000 = # of 10 cyans..
10000 Lumens would need 5 blue 50 cyans..
At least by calculation .Cyans # appears ridiculously high.. 


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> myData orphekstrip.txt [90°] x5
> PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Blue (460-480nm) [120°] x5
> ...


Pretty sure to the eye it wouldn't look "right"


To be honest, I wouldn't mess w/ it either till I saw just the Orpheks over my tank..


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I ordered before they were put on the website and apparently it was the first order for the freshwater planted version. It took 17 or 18 days to get them built, but somehow it was economical to overnight them to me from HK. Sort of anyhow, the psus and hanging hardware arrived this morning. The lights themselves also cleared customs at the same time, but for whatever reason never left with the psus so the package with the lights has an estimated arrival time of Monday right now. I guess I should really get on top of finishing that stand this weekend.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> I ordered before they were put on the website and apparently it was the first order for the freshwater planted version. It took 17 or 18 days to get them built, but somehow it was economical to overnight them to me from HK. Sort of anyhow, the psus and hanging hardware arrived this morning. The lights themselves also cleared customs at the same time, but for whatever reason never left with the psus so the package with the lights has an estimated arrival time of Monday right now. I guess I should really get on top of finishing that stand this weekend.


Nice. I contacted them to get 2x 60cm units but didn't hear back from them for two weeks. Did you get the stock 120deg optics?


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I asked about 90 degree optics because I was going to hang them up higher but the sales guy talked me back into 120. I got 2x 120cm. They were delivered about an hour ago, but I haven't had time to do anything with them yet. The tank they're gonna go on is basically empty right now, I have set up the stand and checked that the plumbing doesn't leak. Maybe I will take some par measurements while it's empty.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

This is how far I got at lunch... I will probably make something better to hang them with later.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

"Warms the cockles of me art..". 

Bit high for 120 degree lenses though (can't tell from picture though..nice wood canopy would be cool) and hope you got a dimmer system figured out..

120's will blend better..


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

The height is easily adjustable... I have them up pretty high right now for ease of access. I might make a full canopy at some point, I'll have to figure out how to hang it exactly though. I'm not sure how canopies for rimless tanks that aren't in a wall or something are supposed to go. Am I supposed to hang it from the cieling? I guess I could easily attach something to the legs of the stand on the back...

I do intend to wire some PWM dimmers in, but I'm trying to source the connectors they are using at the moment... I suppose I could strip the wires they are providing but I'd rather not if possible.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> The height is easily adjustable... I have them up pretty high right now for ease of access. I might make a full canopy at some point, I'll have to figure out how to hang it exactly though. I'm not sure how canopies for rimless tanks that aren't in a wall or something are supposed to go. Am I supposed to hang it from the cieling? I guess I could easily attach something to the legs of the stand on the back...
> 
> I do intend to wire some PWM dimmers in, but I'm trying to source the connectors they are using at the moment... I suppose I could strip the wires they are providing but I'd rather not if possible.


They threw in both the hanging and bracket kit right? You could ways do a floating canopy and put the lights inside with the canopy brackets.

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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Yes the brackets are on now / attached to just some boards to space them out for the moment. Then a different adjustable hanging kit is attached to the board. I was lamenting my lack of knowledge of how to do a floating canopy. I meant hang the canopy... I think I could make something that mostly is hidden/holding it up from the back. I'll have to think about it.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Acrylic risers for a rimless tank are easy to make.









One for each and you can move them individually..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> Yes the brackets are on now / attached to just some boards to space them out for the moment. Then a different adjustable hanging kit is attached to the board. I was lamenting my lack of knowledge of how to do a floating canopy. I meant hang the canopy... I think I could make something that mostly is hidden/holding it up from the back. I'll have to think about it.


Yeah here is an example of the one i made on my reef tank.

It just hangs from ceiling like a normal t5 light.










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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

My laptop's screen is broken right now, so I haven't taken any par readings yet. I could use a monitor but that's kind of a pain, but I'll probably do that anyhow, as I haven't ordered a new laptop screen yet. 

Tomorrow I will find out if I ordered the right connectors to put in a dimmer or not. Also been adding plants and such from other tanks, but I need to go get another co2 tank and the light can only go full blast right now so I am on a really short light period. A canopy would be nice for housing the dimmers, for now I will craft some cheapo risers and hide the dimmers underneath until I have a little more time.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> My laptop's screen is broken right now, so I haven't taken any par readings yet. I could use a monitor but that's kind of a pain, but I'll probably do that anyhow, as I haven't ordered a new laptop screen yet.
> 
> Tomorrow I will find out if I ordered the right connectors to put in a dimmer or not. Also been adding plants and such from other tanks, but I need to go get another co2 tank and the light can only go full blast right now so I am on a really short light period. A canopy would be nice for housing the dimmers, for now I will craft some cheapo risers and hide the dimmers underneath until I have a little more time.


Nice how's the light blending? Is the power supply a meanwell HLG or just a cheapo laptop style?

Does the light have a removable splash guard? I found a diffusion panel from Makrolon called Lumen XT which would be interesting to pair with the fixture if the splash guard is removable.
https://www.sheets.covestro.com/Han...emID=90B3A37524FA454B9F2796A6997244F4&lang=en

The LW3 is 93% light transmission at .060 and 90% transmission at .118 widths. If the splash guard is removable I could cut a replacement strip and voila, awesomesauce.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Blends pretty well to my eyes I am not seeing the discoball stuff so far, but maybe the lights are too high up for that currently. I will try filming it maybe a camera would pick that up better if it is there. I can take a picture of the psu after work, not actually meanwell but an offbrand meanwell? Not a laptop brick per se.

https://orphek.com/led/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/aquarium-LED-lighting-Orphek-OR-60-1600x1060.jpg My PSUs are similar to the one they picture here~

I am not sure of the glass being removable or not, it's supposedly ip67 and the 2 endcaps are screwed on, might be possible to unscrew one side and slide it off? I am not sure I haven't tried. I'll try to examine how the glass is in there more closely later tonight.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> Blends pretty well to my eyes I am not seeing the discoball stuff so far, but maybe the lights are too high up for that currently. I will try filming it maybe a camera would pick that up better if it is there. I can take a picture of the psu after work, not actually meanwell but an offbrand meanwell? Not a laptop brick per se.
> 
> https://orphek.com/led/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/aquarium-LED-lighting-Orphek-OR-60-1600x1060.jpg My PSUs are similar to the one they picture here~


Ahh ok cool. I emailed them to ask about the splash guard and if it can be replaced. If so, I am going to put in an order of 2x 60CMs units and my local acrylics shop carries Makrolon Lumen XT.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

40-80V 550mA constant current..
Not Meanwell not UL listed... 

Pretty much a typical Chinese driver..

Nothing wrong w/ that per se but it does keep the cost down....


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I am pretty sure they are built to order and some guy from R2R (maybe it was another reef forum) got the blue sky only with a higher proportion of cyan vs royal blue. I am pretty sure he claimed they did that for free. Maybe they would be willing to just make them for you with no glass if it turns out they silicone it in place to make it waterproof or some such.

I think mine is 35-60v 1050mA for the 48" version but I am not certain.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> My laptop's screen is broken right now, so I haven't taken any par readings yet. I could use a monitor but that's kind of a pain, but I'll probably do that anyhow, as I haven't ordered a new laptop screen yet.
> 
> Tomorrow I will find out if I ordered the right connectors to put in a dimmer or not. Also been adding plants and such from other tanks, but I need to go get another co2 tank and the light can only go full blast right now so I am on a really short light period. A canopy would be nice for housing the dimmers, for now I will craft some cheapo risers and hide the dimmers underneath until I have a little more time.


hmmm.. dimmer's not going to work.. voltage too high..
HLG-60H-C700*B*
https://www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/mean-well-hlg-c
$30...
B is 3 way dimmable..

AND you boost output..  550mA vs 700mA
"Should" be able to use 50V vs 40 V minimum of orig. driver... no worries at the top end.. 
Sorry only suggestions not recommendations..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Those specs don't add up. How is the wattage of the 60cm 55 watts but runs at 0.55 amps at max 80V. So constant current driver but still something's not right.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> Those specs don't add up. How is the wattage of the 60cm 55 watts but runs at 0.55 amps at max 80V. So constant current driver but still something's not right.


Yea should be more like 100V....
55= 100x .550...
OR run it at 680mA... 
Hey what manuf doesn't fudge..

more reasons to substitute Meanwells.. 

36 diodes.. Roughly 3V each.. is 108V....
Even accounting for reds at 2V../

*OPP's different size light.. Bet mA is the same..*

Bet o/p's ps just has a higher top end voltage..

may need to adjust ..

My driver recommendation may need to be adjusted 100V top end "might" be too low at 700mA


think the o/p will test ACTUAL voltage????


Hey work for ya!


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I mean I can't use the cheap 12-24v dimmers certainly, but like a inline dc motor PWM wouldn't work? If this doesn't work I will replace the PSU... but I want to say mine says 1050mA on it I will confirm after work.

Their watts rating is like ... I've got 36 3w leds so it must be 108W? I don't think the watts are accurate either but I'll see what par has to say :/


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

A closeup of the power supply Wobble actually received would probably clear everything out.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> I mean I can't use the cheap 12-24v dimmers certainly, but like a inline dc motor PWM wouldn't work? If this doesn't work I will replace the PSU... but I want to say mine says 1050mA on it I will confirm after work.
> 
> Their watts rating is like ... I've got 36 3w leds so it must be 108W? I don't think the watts are accurate either but I'll see what par has to say :/


Here is the catch.. you will be "flickering" a power supply thats job is to keep voltage at a level that the amp draw is set for..
Basically your driver will attempt to compensate voltage at the off cycle..
so now you are going from max possible voltage to drive voltage..

I've heard it can work but not really recommended.
It's like hot wiring the LED's to the driver at the Mhz level (which the motor speed controls go at)
driver needs to compensate fast or you are always over-volting the LEDs very briefly..

sorry sounds confusing..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> I mean I can't use the cheap 12-24v dimmers certainly, but like a inline dc motor PWM wouldn't work? If this doesn't work I will replace the PSU... but I want to say mine says 1050mA on it I will confirm after work.
> 
> Their watts rating is like ... I've got 36 3w leds so it must be 108W? I don't think the watts are accurate either but I'll see what par has to say :/


I am pretty sure the typo is the current. They are all being run at 1A which would make the specs add up. Now that means the 48" model actually has ~110V power supply.

Ed. Just looked at the 48" and it looks like it's setup in series parallel config. So basically 18 diodes in series and then those 2 strings in parallel so actually looking at a 2A power supply @ 54V.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> A closeup of the power supply Wobble actually received would probably clear everything out.


Yea as to mA.. ACTUAL voltage will be needed to figure a replacement since these Chinese driver never match Meanwells well..
Pretty sure that is by intent.. 

Of course dimmable "black box" drivers will work..

well could check both..amps and voltage..

Where did you get they were run at 1A from?
36 diodes w/ an average v(f) of 3 V is 108W....
to get 55W out of 36 diodes they would need to average 1.52V .. 

last 3 numbers is a mA.. Needs to be 1000 



.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Yea as to mA.. ACTUAL voltage will be needed to figure a replacement since these Chinese driver never match Meanwells well..
> Pretty sure that is by intent..
> 
> Of course dimmable "black box" drivers will work..
> ...


The website says they are run at 1A for 48". Does Wobble has a 4ft or a smaller unit?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> The website says they are run at 1A for 48". Does Wobble has a 4ft or a smaller unit?


counted 36 diodes..  Should be able to tell from there..
what 1" spacing plus some...

90cm bar 36" [email protected] 550 60W "if" diodes average 3V
@3.63V average.. numbers work..

1A doesn't work...

"IF" the meanwell works can boost output to 91.4W....
Actually probably doesn't, top end voltage needs to be 131V or slightly more... 
Which is why the actual voltage of a running unit is desperately needed.. 
Well only if you can't match the orig voltage easily..Never seen it to be easy..
Now about the heat sink.. 

fun playing w/ others toys...


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)




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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


>


Can't read the last part. So it's 77V? Or is that the wattage draw?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

none of that makes sense.. pfffftttt...

72W 77V....1.050mA...

diodes average 2.03V each. Now that makes some sense

6060doesn't .. There is the typo..

volt button is pushed.. LOL


HLG-120H-C1050B
74-108V 1050mA..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> none of that makes sense.. pfffftttt...
> 
> 72W 77V....1.050mA...
> 
> ...


K so where's the 100W figure coming from.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I think they just filled in 3W x LED # regardless of what they are actually driving them at... but I will probably replace the psus with the meanwell soonish. 

Incidentally it's looking like this right now... kinda cloudy from stirring up the substrate a lot. Still rearranging stuff and deciding what all I want to put in there.









Oh and the glass appears to be attached with silicone or something, not held in a slot by the end caps.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> K so where's the 100W figure coming from.


The 48" version

Sorry got a bit befuddled there...
Correcting:

60 (24), 18 diodes @ 1.050mA 54W
90 (36), 24 diodes @ 1.050mA 72W
120 (48), 36 diodes @ 1.050mA 108W

good question..not sure which one.. will need to go over this a bit..
anyways, on the road.. 
should have just gone right to Orphek..
https://orphek.com/or-bar-led-light/

y X 3W .....


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

One light @ about 18" but I didn't try other spots to measure from because it's too much of a pain while I have to have a monitor hooked up to my laptop.









It was about 90-100 par with 2 lights and slightly higher near the glass.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> One light @ about 18" but I didn't try other spots to measure from because it's too much of a pain while I have to have a monitor hooked up to my laptop.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's not bad at all for 120deg optics at that height.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I'm not even sure I want to change the brightness much from there but I've ordered 2 HLG-120H-C1050B... heading to go get a co2 tank right now but probably won't have it all hooked up until after work.

.... Somehow the price from Roberts oxygen for a 20lb tank went from a reasonable 120 to over 200 so I guess I'm buying online and swapping it out.


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

I was looking at Orphek's website and was wondering about the wattage when I realized you guys already talked about it, haha. It confused me too.

I guess some companies are using "rated watts" rather than actual watts now. It's kind of like those 3W Epistar leds that draw a max of 700mA at 3.2-3.4V which is 2.4W. SBReef uses these but still says their fixture is 165W at 55 x 3W leds. Even their 45" Ultra which uses Crees says it's "430 rated watts." If it actually uses 430W I'd be very impressed with their heatsinks.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Geoffrey2568 said:


> I was looking at Orphek's website and was wondering about the wattage when I realized you guys already talked about it, haha. It confused me too.
> 
> I guess some companies are using "rated watts" rather than actual watts now. It's kind of like those 3W Epistar leds that draw a max of 700mA at 3.2-3.4V which is 2.4W. SBReef uses these but still says their fixture is 165W at 55 x 3W leds. Even their 45" Ultra which uses Crees says it's "430 rated watts." If it actually uses 430W I'd be very impressed with their heatsinks.


Any new pics of tank? Any change in look of plants? More specifically red plants.

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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

gus6464 said:


> Any new pics of tank? Any change in look of plants? More specifically red plants.
> 
> Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk


 I'm not @Wobblebonk but I'd be interested in that too!


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I think some are gaining color and some are losing a little bit of color in the newest growth, but they were moved from a high tech tank into this one with a short photo period / light dosing, so it's not a whole lot of growth to begin with. CO2 tank was just delivered last night... gonna go get it filled around lunch time. The meanwell powersupplies are supposed to arrive today but I'm still trying to find the right connectors so I don't have to splice the old cable. These are the only newer pics I have available right now at work...


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

I think it looks really good. Is there a disco effect at that height?


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

There's a lot of surface movement so there's kind of a shimmer but I personally am not seeing separated colors. I should try filming it or something, a camera could probably see it more clearly?





 @ChrisX I think that's just shimmer but you tell me.

I guess you can see some new plant growth on some red plants and such but only like the very tops are new on the ar at the start (like the tiny new stem coming off) , and other ar that's completely obliterated in the middle... I totally destroyed with h2o2. 

I'm not even sure what some of these plants are supposed to look like right now I've never grown some of them before... like one of the rhizome plants on the front with the brownish leaves but then the new leaf is bright green, and the super light green stems in front of it. I don't even remember the names of those at all right now. Some other weird staurogyne towards the left side I've also never grown before...


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I guess I am splicing my own connectors onto the wires, because basically noone on the internet stocks m15 waterproof connectors. I can find no options other than a large order from alibaba, which seems a lot of effort for something that might fit...
I think meanwell makes one that is mentioned in the hlg datasheet, but again I can't find any place that stocks it :/


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> I guess I am splicing my own connectors onto the wires, because basically noone on the internet stocks m15 waterproof connectors. I can find no options other than a large order from alibaba, which seems a lot of effort for something that might fit...
> I think meanwell makes one that is mentioned in the hlg datasheet, but again I can't find any place that stocks it :/


I know where to get those one sec have to find the link.

https://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well-cj041.html?p=43123318


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

gus6464 said:


> I think meanwell makes one that is mentioned in the hlg datasheet, but aga
> 
> I know where to get those one sec have to find the link.
> 
> https://www.onlinecomponents.com/mean-well-cj041.html?p=43123318


That's for splicing I have those or comparable, I wanted to find the actual plug they were using and make a new wire instead of cutting up the old one.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Does anyone make a product like this except not $200 for a ramp up timer? https://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-led-controller/


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wobblebonk said:


> Does anyone make a product like this except not $200 for a ramp up timer? https://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-led-controller/


They have the bluefish mini that's half the price but it's pwm only.

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> Does anyone make a product like this except not $200 for a ramp up timer? https://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-led-controller/


bluefish nini, typon, Hurricane, Storm, Storm X, modified TC-420,421, asst modded chinese controllers and............. A converter board..
0 - 5V to 0 - 10V PWM signal converter for Arduino
BELOW is backwards btw 0=100%









you can try a TC-420 running natively off 10v (ish) to see if it works.. not sure.


https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-0-100-Linear-Conversion-Transmitter/dp/B00U7GJDVO
NOTE: Bluefish mini is 3.3V out...


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Thanks I will look into some of those options.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> Thanks I will look into some of those options.





Cheapest option AFAICT Can tap off the 12V converter to power the 5V PWM converter (on the green/blue PWM wires.) :
10V PWM Converter (5V PWM into 3-in-1 10V PWM)

Should be under $60 w/ careful shopping..
NOTE:


> Please be aware that this does not allow Meanwell 3-in-1 dimming drivers to turn completely off. This issue is not a limitation of this converter, it is a limitation of the driver. This issue is indicated in your driver's datasheet. We recommend plugging your driver in to an inexpensive (~$5USD) wall timer to turn off after sunset has completed, and turn on before sunrise starts). Easiest solution ever! Beware, using an external relay such as indicated in the Meanwell documentation can not only be a fire hazard, it is not suitable for commercial installations as it not safety certified, whereas a wall timer would be UL safety certified.












Hurricane and converter $100.
didn't include wall timer in any calcs.

http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=storm-10v-converter
storm X plus converter $130-ish


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Yeah I have them on wall timers already for turning off completely no worries there.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

You can run the bluefish mini off of 5v. Those 5V usb mini bricks work great.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Right he's saying it's 3.3v PWM output suitable for LDD drivers I think, while I need 1-10v/10v PWM or a potentiometer. I see they sell lots of ready made 5v pwm ->10v pwm devices but not so much 3.3v -> 10.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Well... a little late but

this one's kind of out of focus but new ar mini leaves are red... not a fair comparison as I murdered these moving them over, the old leaves didn't look like this before that.









crypt flamingo... camera apparently made this pic all dark.









ludwigia red? some kind of ammania and some kind of rotala :/ and some hair algae!









wallichii I am just experimenting in this corner to see how stuff grows









ludwigia inclinata sp. tornado the white ludwigia was dying at the lfs. they gave it to me cheap, but that growth is not from this tank.









staurogyne spathulata









some kind of rotala...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> Right he's saying it's 3.3v PWM output suitable for LDD drivers I think, while I need 1-10v/10v PWM or a potentiometer. I see they sell lots of ready made 5v pwm ->10v pwm devices but not so much 3.3v -> 10.



to be clear the converter boards "may" work w/ 3.3V PWM signals. just haven't seen it verified.. yet..


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

So I'm thinking of trying the hurricanex and in the not too distant future making a light myself.

I looked at that diffuser, Lumen XT for my own project and I could only find it in 4'x8' sheets for well over $200 for .06" thick...


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I made the back black and made some acrylic stands for the moment, they're not the prettiest (they probably look like what they cost me to make heh) but temporary, till I possibly build a canopy. Might need to take a power tool to some of the wood sticking out for that but oh well.

These were taken from my phone so who knows how that compares to the camera I used before... colors might be a bit washed out. These were actually just before lights out the lights are @ 10% here, which is as low as an HLG will go, so many of the stems are stretching but...











Personally I think the new ar mini growth is looking good...



























Ludwigia white is sorta coming in now... there was basically all dying emersed growth when I got it.









The bacopa or whatever in the back doesn't do much but collect hair algae so I think I will replace it with the stems you can see at the front of the picture. I don't even know where I got the bacopa I think it was a freebie with something I bought once...









I think it turns out these are ar lilacina... after reassessing what was going on in the tank it came from. I had both in there the lilacina got lost in the back and the bottoms melted and I had giant floating stems...









River buttercup?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Good start.. How did you end up controlling them?
I know you switched out the drivers..
also did you put them on a wall timer?
any "flash" at shutoff?


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

There is a hurricanex, but it's covered up by the table cloth in the first picture. I've got it wired to 1 other light right now also, but I intended to use the other channels later~

Right now because they only use ~60W and they both use almost exactly the same voltage (I tried at a couple temperatures...) I am running them both in series off a single HLG 120H C1050B.

They are on a wall timer also. It's still relatively bright at "minimum" output so the transitions from off to min / min to off are fairly sudden. But I don't see like a flash of increased brightness as it turns off/on if you are asking about something like that?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

That color on the ar mini is great. Light can definitely grow some red. So what power supply did you end up swapping out for?

Ed nvm I just read it. Does that psu have a pwm dim output?

Sent from my LGUS997 using Tapatalk


The more I see pics of your tank the more I am convinced that a sheet of Lumen XT over the strip on these would take it to the next level. I can get Lumen XT sheets locally but they will only sell me a 8x4 feet sheet for $200 which is a lot. Maybe some people would be interested to buy cuts of it to offset the high initial cost.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I believe PWM output is only on the meanwell PWM series of ac/dc drivers and it's constant voltage (and not high enough voltage for a single OR 120 either.) It does accept a PWM dimming signal, not PWM output. Unless I went to LDD style dc/dc but those don't go high enough voltage for the OR120 either... could do it on the smaller models probably.

Dimming seems fairly smooth afaict anyhow.

I'm interested in some Lumen XT myself but I've encountered the same problem. Basically gotta organize a group buy for reasonably sized pieces, possibly if doing smaller lights one could buy samples, but I would need like 2 thin 4' strips and something like a 6" wide 4' strip ( or 2 2' x 6" pieces~).


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> It does accept a PWM dimming signal, not PWM output.


Actually odds are its PWM out regardless of input signal..
0-10v analog will most likely output PWM-ed out..

Only other choice is current reduction w/ more color changes..

Phillips coralcare does current reduction and do some driver chips.. BUT.. not really as common as one thinks..


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Well I stand corrected maybe? datasheet of LDDs as well as PWM ac/dc driver shows PWM FREQUENCY or switching frequency information in output, but this data isn't in HLG data sheet at all so I was assuming.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wobblebonk said:


> Well I stand corrected maybe? datasheet of LDDs as well as PWM ac/dc driver shows PWM FREQUENCY or switching frequency information in output, but this data isn't in HLG data sheet at all so I was assuming.



you may be right.. w/out an o-scope on the output it is still a guess..


https://www.ledsupply.com/blog/dimming-led-strip-lights-with-mean-well-pwm/


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