# 29 gallon LED build



## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

I want to upgrade the lighting on my 29 gallon from a 2x24W T5HO fixture. I mainly dislike having dark ends of the tank where the 24" fixture is shorter than my 30" tank. 

I have taken my inspiration from one of Hoppy's builds. I plan on using 2 2" wide aluminum channeling to house 7 cool white CREE XP-G's, for a total of 14 LED's. I had intitally planned on using 65 degree optics, but I only want to suspend the fixture 6-12" above the water surface. In talking with Rockhoe14er, I have come to realize the optics might be unnecessary. LED's will be spaced 4" apart, and the two rows will also be 4" apart. This will allow for the most even lighting on the 30"X12" tank without using 20+ LED's. I will be using a dimmable Mean Well driver to achieve the PAR I desire (80-100 at the substrate). 


Is there anything I am missing? Any suggestions? 

I am a total newbie when it comes to electronics, so thanks to speedoflife (local TPT member) and Rockhoe14er for your help so far.


My RapidLED cart looks like this.

 
CREE XP-G R5 Cool White 3W LED on Star $5.00 14 $70.00
 
10K Ohm Linear Potentiometer $3.50 
 
10V AC Adapter $10.00 
 
Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver $34.00 
 
3-Prong Power Cord $2.50 

Sub-Total $120.00


Here is a very crude mockup of my planned fixture.


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

60 degree optics.
6 inches above the tank.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Haha thanks, you just had to show off your GoogleSketchUp work! Still trying to decide on the optics...


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## jcgd (Feb 18, 2004)

Speedo life, can you do a sketchup with no optics for comparisons?

60 degree optics look to have perfect spread.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

What's the rendering like without the optics?

Edit: Oops, late to the party, justin already asked the same q.


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

Don't mean to sound arrogant, but it's not really worth doing that rendering. I can if you really want it, but you can easily see from this picture (stolen from www.ledgroupbuy.com ) that it essentially spreads the light everywhere. However, this is misleading, as one can see by the intensity vs angle graph on the LED's data sheet how much more intense it'd be at the center. I suppose one could do a sort of rendering combined with the intensity vs angle incorporated, but I'm not that smart.









Graph at bottom of page 6:
http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/XLampXP-G.pdf


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

40 degree optics.
12 inches above the tank. Yeah it's only 5 LED's but good for comparison purposes.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Looks really good. Do you have a multimeter? you might want to get one if not.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Try using this: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/136733-led-light-36-high-tank-18.html#post1443426 to see how much PAR you will get with that LED setup. I did a quick try and it looks like you get about 40 micromols of PAR with 1000 mA current.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

After having worked with six different Meanwell driver, I would say a multimeter capable of measuring current (2 amp max is plenty) is essential. They ship all over the place.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

> Try using this: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/di...ml#post1443426 to see how much PAR you will get with that LED setup. I did a quick try and it looks like you get about 40 micromols of PAR with 1000 mA current.


Interesting, I just played with that formula as well. The PAR values I calculated were significantly lower than what I expected, especially after talking with Rockhoe14er about his build. 

I guess 65 degree optics are a go. I can always dim the LED's down to the desired intensity, but once I build the fixture there is no adding more light without serious adjustment.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I highly recommend you run optics, you want to reduce the amount of light hitting the glass as much as possible. I didn't on my fixture and oh my goodness the algae that grows on the glass is ridiculous, if I don't scrape the glass, it only takes 2 days before I can't even see into the tank anymore.

I'm redoing my fixture right now, adding 60degree optics and dimmable drivers. Wish I did this from the start!


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

All this LED build threads is making me more interested in putting one together. I will have to keep an eye out locally for aluminum channels. 

h2oaggie, is your fixture going into a canopy or standalone?


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

It is going to be stand alone. The channeling should look good enough on its own after a little buffing. It will look just like this but two rows rather than 4.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I think I would use 40 degree optics, to get more PAR at the substrate, to reduce the light striking the glass, and to enhance the "shimmer" effect, if you want that. And, I would put the light a foot above the tank, because it looks good there, and it gives you good access to the tank for maintenance.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

> I think I would use 40 degree optics, to get more PAR at the substrate, to reduce the light striking the glass, and to enhance the "shimmer" effect, if you want that. And, I would put the light a foot above the tank, because it looks good there, and it gives you good access to the tank for maintenance.


Would you suggest the use of 10 LED's then?


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Any more suggestions before I order the LED's? I have pretty much decided on 14 CREE XP-G's with 65 degree optics.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I think you will have enough LEDs to get good light for a planted tank. If you want to experiment with a PAR of 100+ micromols, I think you will want a few more LEDs, perhaps 9 to 10 in each row. And, I really like the 40 degree optics, but the ones you decided on should work too.

Or you could put the 7 in each row closer together, letting the light spread give you the light for the ends of the tank, which would be less intense than the middle, but not by a drastic amount, because of the reflection of light off the glass ends.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Hoppy said:


> I think you will have enough LEDs to get good light for a planted tank. If you want to experiment with a PAR of 100+ micromols, I think you will want a few more LEDs, perhaps 9 to 10 in each row. And, I really like the 40 degree optics, but the ones you decided on should work too.
> 
> Or you could put the 7 in each row closer together, letting the light spread give you the light for the ends of the tank, which would be less intense than the middle, but not by a drastic amount, because of the reflection of light off the glass ends.


Honestly anymore led's would give you just an insane amount of light. Again my fixture is 35 inches above the substrate on my 29 gallon and when running all 14 LED at 1 amp i get 100 par. If i crank it up to 1.4 amps i get 140 par at my substrate. If i lowered the fixture to have it 12 inches above the tank it's even more. My vote is for 14 LED's or less. 

Again my par measurements are not based of Hoppy's equation their based on a par meter so that might be where their is some discretion between the two.


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

40 degree optics.
12 inches above tank.
6 LED's per row, 2 rows. Sides are 2.5 in. from edge and 5 in. apart.
Easily 100% coverage.


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

No harm intended


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

haha sorry they're**************


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> haha sorry they're**************


I'm just playing. There's a gif online of that somewhere; that's what I was mimicking.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Alright, just made my Rapid LED order. I went with 12 cool white XP-G's with 40 degree lenses. Mike at Rapid LED has been super awesome to work with, answering any questions I have promptly.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

h2oaggie said:


> Alright, just made my Rapid LED order. I went with 12 cool white XP-G's with 40 degree lenses. Mike at Rapid LED has been super awesome to work with, answering any questions I have promptly.


yeah he's really helpful. I think 12 is a great number and i'm sure you won't be disappointed.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

h2oaggie, what's the cost like now for parts?

Another question, is painting aluminum fixture ok? I like the dull black look of the tek fixtures. If I can get a Tek shell, I'll mount it in there.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

reybie said:


> h2oaggie, what's the cost like now for parts?
> 
> Another question, is painting aluminum fixture ok? I like the dull black look of the tek fixtures. If I can get a Tek shell, I'll mount it in there.


I spent $129.50 at Rapid LED and $20 at Amazon for the aluminum channel. Painting the aluminum should pose no problem at all, I just like the look of bare aluminum so I am going to skip that step.


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## sink (Jun 11, 2011)

reybie said:


> h2oaggie, what's the cost like now for parts?
> 
> Another question, is painting aluminum fixture ok? I like the dull black look of the tek fixtures. If I can get a Tek shell, I'll mount it in there.


I wouldn't paint the aluminum acting as your heat sink. It's bound to decrease the ability of the aluminum to transfer heat to the air and cause your LEDs to run hotter.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

Depends on the coating and finish. A flat black header paint (automotive) would probably improve heat dissipation...but those need cured at high temps. Would have to paint and then toss in the oven...


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

I received all my LEDs today, so be looking for build pictures here soon. The fixture itself it's finished and looking mighty nice.


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## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

Actually, I read in a huge thread on LEDs over at reef central that ANY paint/coating actually increases the heat dissipation. Go ahead and paint it.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Dragonfish said:


> Actually, I read in a huge thread on LEDs over at reef central that ANY paint/coating actually increases the heat dissipation. Go ahead and paint it.


That's because no material can have both a high reflectivity and high absorptivity of light. Aluminum is naturally very reflective, so it is a poor emitter of radiant energy. Painting it improves the "blackness" of aluminum surfaces. But, for convective heat transfer, from blowing air onto the surface, the paint has to at least slightly reduce the heat transfer.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

Sand blast and black anodize.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

Good info guys. Thanks, I'm building the fixture in my head for now. Once I put it on paper (or electronic format) it will get expensive.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Here are some not very good images of just the fixture itself. I will be installing the LEDs later today.


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## sink (Jun 11, 2011)

Hoppy said:


> That's because no material can have both a high reflectivity and high absorptivity of light. Aluminum is naturally very reflective, so it is a poor emitter of radiant energy. Painting it improves the "blackness" of aluminum surfaces. But, for convective heat transfer, from blowing air onto the surface, the paint has to at least slightly reduce the heat transfer.


Exactly.


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## jt-79 (Jul 13, 2011)

h2oaggie said:


> I received all my LEDs today, so be looking for build pictures here soon. The fixture itself it's finished and looking mighty nice.


I might be too late but i just changed my G series LED lens from 65 to 80 and have no use for them if you like you can have them. 

Yes painting then black wouldn't effect much to the heat transfer rate on AL. Might look better but that pretty much it lol. Yeah get yourself a quietPC fan. I got a large 170mm fan on my setup and the business end of the LED is cool the the touch.

CASE FAN XIGMATEK| XLF-F1706 RT
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233065

Good fan and since it only spinning at 800 rpm its super quiet.

Jonathan


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

> I might be too late but i just changed my G series LED lens from 65 to 80 and have no use for them if you like you can have them.


Thanks for the offer, but I really like the 40 degree optics I have.

Just finished the fixture and it looks great. I need to get one more item from Lowes tomorrow to finish the hanging, but then I will start posting pictures.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

What are you going to do for heat dissipation since the aluminum doesn't have fins that I can see? Sorry if you've already mentioned it in previous posts.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you don't run the LEDs near their maximum power they don't get hot enough to worry about having or not having finned heatsinks. At 50% power, or less I don't think even a cooling fan is essential. The aluminum channels have two "fins" so they are better than plain aluminum bars.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

Thanks! Good to know.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Yep, I only plan to run them at 700-1000 mA, where their maximum power is 1300+ mA. I really doubt heat will be an issue.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

These iPhone pictures will have to suffice until my real camera battery finishes charging. The fixture looks incredible.


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## radioman (Oct 29, 2007)

That looks really good!


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## monkeyruler90 (Apr 13, 2008)

looks great!!


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## sink (Jun 11, 2011)

Hoppy said:


> If you don't run the LEDs near their maximum power they don't get hot enough to worry about having or not having finned heatsinks. At 50% power, or less I don't think even a cooling fan is essential. The aluminum channels have two "fins" so they are better than plain aluminum bars.


I agree. I dim my LEDs (thread) down a lot (to ~30%) for normal use and the aluminum channel they're on doesn't even get warm. No fan or anything. Point is, in a lot of cases you don't have to worry about fins.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

I just realized I never posted some decent pictures as I promised. I will try and get that done tonight. So far the LED's are just awesome, I absolutely love the dimmable fixture.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

I just caught up with the rest of the posts. Finished product looks really good. I like how your LEDs are mounted, the optics are not sticking out.

I bought a DIY LED fixture from a local member that moved out of state. It was designed for a 29 gal also (30" long I believe). I'm going to test hang it and see if it will cover the footprint of my 90P.

I'd like to see the higher quality pics


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## hamato (Jun 7, 2008)

I like the simplicity of this build, and I am planning something quite similar. 

What is the depth of the channel aluminum you used 2"x1"? I want to be sure the optics aren't visible below at eye level as you have done and the optics on rapidled don't have very detailed specs.

Also how did you end up attaching the LEDs, thermal adhesive?


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

> What is the depth of the channel aluminum you used 2"x1"? I want to be sure the optics aren't visible below at eye level as you have done and the optics on rapidled don't have very detailed specs.


Yes, 2" wide with 1" legs, 1/8" thick. 



> Also how did you end up attaching the LEDs, thermal adhesive?


Correct, just thermal adhesive.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Pictures as promised, sorry for the delay. If there is any particular part of the fixture someone would like to see a closeup of just let me know.


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## Abrium (Jan 7, 2011)

this was very pleasant and informative to read.


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## sink (Jun 11, 2011)

hamato said:


> the optics on rapidled don't have very detailed specs.


An aluminum star with the rapidled 40deg optic mounted on it are together just shy of 0.5" tall.


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## Pen3 (Jan 2, 2007)

I am about to set up my diy setup also, but on a 18" cube. I think i will try 8 XP-G on 700ma meanwell. I ordered 2 green XP-E to test out since i kind of like the ADA-NAG light i had before on my old HQI setup. As for optics i am not sure what to use yet since my heatsink is 9x6.


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## scapegoat (Jun 3, 2010)

thanks for bumping this! I'm happy to see links to whats being used.


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## hamato (Jun 7, 2008)

Well it took me awhile to get around to it but here is my version of this LED build. Same 2"x1" channel aluminum with xp-g & 40 deg optics over a 20L. 
Driver is a Meanwell, controlled by a Hydra. I'm still deciding on scaping/inhabitants while the tank cycles.


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## Geoscouter (Feb 22, 2011)

So I am in the process of building a very similar fixture for my 29 gal tank. I've built the aluminum fixture but have connected the two channels with pivoting arms so that I can set the fixture on the hinged glass top and still open the top to feed. I'm getting the dimmable mean well driver to run the 12 XPG cool whites but unsure what if any optics I should get. With my 3 inch substrate the LEDs will be 17-18 inches above it when sitting on top. 

I would appreciate help in determining what degree optic would be best and why. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## winniemagic (Jun 12, 2011)

I'm not sure if this was answered before, but why did you choose the "cool white"? I see that rapid has cool, neutral, and warm.


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## Geoscouter (Feb 22, 2011)

Cool white appears to be the choice most have gone with. Apparently warm white is too yellow. Neutral is between warm and cool and cool
White has a little more blue. I thought about mixing neutral and cool but they are fairly close in color and I thought it would be simpler to do just one and cool white was closer to 6500k overall. Don't think you could go wrong with either. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## winniemagic (Jun 12, 2011)

Oh ok, I wasn't sure if it was for the plants or for the people looking at the plants lol. Now i know


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## BS87 (Apr 9, 2012)

Both fixtures look very nice! And seemed to be cheap too, total costs <$200?


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Probably just under $200 for everything with my build.

I am actually selling it now, as I am moving and tore down the tank it was over.


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