# Can I cut plexiglass with a wet tile saw???



## crazie.eddie (May 31, 2004)

I was looking for Eggcrate ceiling tiles at several Menards and Home Depot. I came upon a ceiling tile made of clear plexiglass, which was 2'x4' (about 1/4" thick). I thought this would be very nice to use one day (DIY tops, DIY sumps, etc.) and so I was wondering what the best way to cut plexiglass. I performed a google search and several discussions stating using a band saw or such and cutting it slowly, since the plexiglass is plastic and can melt. Others state of spraying the blade with water. I have a wet tile saw, so I was wondering if I can use this to cut the plexiglass.


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## taekwondodo (Apr 16, 2006)

crazie.eddie said:


> I was looking for Eggcrate ceiling tiles at several Menards and Home Depot. I came upon a ceiling tile made of clear plexiglass, which was 2'x4' (about 1/4" thick). I thought this would be very nice to use one day (DIY tops, DIY sumps, etc.) and so I was wondering what the best way to cut plexiglass. I performed a google search and several discussions stating using a band saw or such and cutting it slowly, since the plexiglass is plastic and can melt. Others state of spraying the blade with water. I have a wet tile saw, so I was wondering if I can use this to cut the plexiglass.


Use a fine-toothed blade, like one used for plywood. Don't use a tile saw.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

a tile saw would cut it.. I've tried cutting aquarium glass with it. Only problem is my saw chips the last 1 cm of the glass.. It shouldn't be a problem for plexiglass.


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## ingg (Jan 18, 2007)

I've cut it with a tile saw.

Little messy, but it works - I rather wish I'd tried a plywood blade on a table saw instead, or even circular saw, though.

The blades sort of melt it as it goes, and the result isn't chips on a tile saw, but a long line of quickly hardening snot - which quickly bound up in the small throat plate of my tile saw. (It helps even more that it hit the relatively cold water and set up right away  )

I spent twice as much time chipping that crap out as I did actually cutting.


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## jinx© (Oct 17, 2007)

I've had pretty good results using a router table with a fluted or pilot bit.


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## evercl92 (Aug 15, 2006)

I used a dremmel, with a 3.5in cut-off wheel. As mentioned before, it kinda just melts it, and leftover is what quickly dries into small pieces of the plexi, which was usually easy to remove. I read that it should be scored, scored, and scored more, then break over the edge of a counter/table/etc. I tried that, it took forever, and never did break straight for me.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

why not just score it and then snap it clean?


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## htn86 (Sep 30, 2007)

I usually score it then snap it. You need to get a long straight object like a ruler or a straight piece of lumber. Line it up to where you want to cut then use a razor blade and score it until the line is visible enough. Place the plexiglass on a table with the scored line lined up with the table's edge. Use your hands to press the plexiglass on the table while using your body to fold the plexiglass downward untill it snaps. Plexiglass usually come with an outer piece of plastic to keep it clean. Make sure you keep this outer plastic on when you are doing this. This is what I usually do and it turned out perfect each and every time. GL


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## crazie.eddie (May 31, 2004)

fshfanatic said:


> why not just score it and then snap it clean?


It looks too thick to score. 

I'm thinking about making a wet/dry filter with sump, and if all goes well, a 50 (US) gallon breeder (36" L x 18" W x 18" H) tank.


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## mpodolan (Mar 27, 2007)

crazie.eddie said:


> I'm thinking about making a wet/dry filter with sump, and if all goes well, a 50 (US) gallon breeder (36" L x 18" W x 18" H) tank.


I'd be interested to see that! I love my 50g. Keep us updated!


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

crazie.eddie said:


> It looks too thick to score.
> 
> I'm thinking about making a wet/dry filter with sump, and if all goes well, a 50 (US) gallon breeder (36" L x 18" W x 18" H) tank.


I worked for TAP Plastics in San Mateo, Ca as a fabricator for a few years and you would be surprised. However, I would use a table saw. then sand the edge and use acetone to bond. Then you can use a blowtorch to "flame polish" the edge and make it look real sweet. I have probably designed/built over 100 different sumps/wetdry filters. I made a few that actually hung on the back of 55gallon tanks and utilized duel powerheads for circulation. They are fun to build and it is a great feeling they turn out real nice..


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Wet saw should be good to go....since it will actually cool the plexi as it cuts and not give you as much of the "gum up".

Let us know how this turns out.


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## Aqua Dave (Feb 23, 2004)

A table saw with a fine toothed blade worked great for me. Just take it slow. I suck at cutting straight lines with a hand tool so the table saw was the trick for me.

Fshfanatic, what thickness acrylic did you use for the sumps? I've been thinking about trying to custom make something to replace the 29 gallon tank I currently use. I used some acrylic to cover the current sump, but it has actually warped. I don't know if it's the heat or what that caused it. I wonder if I needed thicker acrylic. Thanks.

David


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## vidiots (Jun 17, 2006)

I was advised by the glass place that I bought my plexiglass from to use a plywood blade mounted in the my table saw backward to reduce the amount of chipping on the edges. I did get some minor plastic buildup along the side of the cut but it was easily polished up with some sand paper. Use coarse sand paper to get the bulk of it off then use fine sand paper to polish it up nice.

I would imagine that the score and snap works well for the thin stuff, but the saw would probably work better for the thicker material. Leaving the protective paper on until the very end protects it from scratching and makes for a cleaner cut.


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## LS6 Tommy (May 13, 2006)

fshfanatic said:


> why not just score it and then snap it clean?


X2, if you're not soing heavy gauge stuff like 1/4" or 3/8". Wearing safety glasses, score it ONCE along a straight edge then snap it off over the edge of a table. 

Here's what the "Pros" use to score plexi:










Tommy


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## crazie.eddie (May 31, 2004)

It looked thick, about 1/4" more or less. I'll probably pick up a 2x4 sheet tonight and experiment using my wet tile saw, which I hope will not be very difficult to cut. I can't afford a table saw, so I may pickup a table saw if the wet tile saw is too difficult to use. I'm not that accurate with power tools either, but I just happened to look around and noticed a dual laser circular saw, which may help me keep a straight line


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## crazie.eddie (May 31, 2004)

Looks like I'm going to scrap the idea for. The sheets are way too expensive. When I first spotted them at Menards. I was buying another eggcrate panel. Just below it, was the clear acrylic panel, priced at about $7.95. I thought it was a good deal, which is why all these ideas came to my head. I came back today to buy them and bought all 3 panels in the shelf. At the register, they rung up at around $35. After arguing with the sales clerk, she pointed out that the price was incorrect. So I showed her exactly where I found the panels and the label exactly stated as $7.95. She then directed me to where the acrylic sheets were located and showed me the rest of the panels. Disappointed, scrapped the project. I may use thinner, cheaper panels for sumps only. I doubt I would make my own tanks, since I would require thicker panels.


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## LS6 Tommy (May 13, 2006)

crazie.eddie said:


> At the register, they rung up at around $35. After arguing with the sales clerk, she pointed out that the price was incorrect. So I showed her exactly where I found the panels and the label exactly stated as $7.95. She then directed me to where the acrylic sheets were located and showed me the rest of the panels.



You should have gotten the store manager. If a product is ladvertised in the store for a certain price, they HAVE to sell it to you for that price. It's the law. I got the amp for my digital drums for $140.00 off because it was mislabeled.

Tommy


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

LS6 Tommy said:


> You should have gotten the store manager. If a product is ladvertised in the store for a certain price, they HAVE to sell it to you for that price. It's the law.


X2.
I've done this. Not your fault they mislabeled it.


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## PDX-PLT (Feb 14, 2007)

jinx© said:


> I've had pretty good results using a router table with a fluted or pilot bit.


Yup, check out this picture from the Routerman:










He advises using a short, narrow carbide-tipprd bit.


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