# T-5 lights need special ballasts?



## tpl*co (Nov 4, 2006)

I talked to the icecap tech and he said the 660 can run t-5's but then I went on the Hellolights site and it said:

"Q. Can I run T5 bulbs on the ARO Model 4LX ballast?
A. Simple answer: Yes, the ARO VHO ballast will "fire" T5 lamps. However, T5 lamps are high performance lamps and requires strict operating conditions for lamp performance and reliability.
Starting: Proper starting and operation is crucial for lamp life and performance. One important parameter is starting - the lamp is designed to be started using a program start - this is an accurate sophisticated controlled starting with proper filament heating with precise amount of time before ignition voltage is applied to the lamp. 
Operating Current: Lamp operating current must also be controlled to tight specifications for performance and reliability. 
We do not recommend the use of ARO VHO ballast to be used with the T5 lamps. Yes, it will fire the lamp as with many other ballasts but this does not mean that the lamps are operating to manufacturers specifications. Many ballast manufacturers claim that their ballast "works" with T5 when in fact a dedicated ballast specifically designed is a must, particularly for the T5 lamps!"

Now on their site they said that their ballast was comparable to the Icecap 660, so what gives? Do I need to worry about what type of ballast I use to run my t5's? I also got a Workhorse 7, would this work? What is everybody else using on their T5's? Any problems using the other ballasts or what are the issues using other ballasts?

Tina


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Comparable doesn't mean the same.


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## Betowess (Dec 9, 2004)

If you go to Reefgeek, you'll see the triad ballast here: ReefGeek | Universal Lighting | Triad T5 HO Fluorescent Ballast: 2-54W

It is the same ballast that Sunlight Supply uses in their Tek lights. That is the way to go. Very reliable programmed start which will make those $14-$24 tubes last a lot longer. They were designed for HO T5 application according to the Reef Geek website. They cost ~ $40.00 to drive to 54 watt tubes.


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## crazy loaches (Sep 29, 2006)

Here is something I came across on diyreef.com when looking at T5 HO stuff...

"54W URI Aquasun 10,000k

Measures 1163 mm 
Advanced Technology - First lamp to light and remain stable at either 54 watts (standard HO ballast) or 85 watts (IceCap Ballast). "

After inquiring they told me the IceCap 660 will overdrive 4 T5HO's to 85W each, and the 430 will do the same with 2 T5s.

After I heard that I tired inquiring on several forums but have yet to have anyone confirm the icecap 660 / 4x85W combo works. Or if its true that the URI's are the only ones that will work. I really do like the idea of being able to only have to put 4 lights over my 150 to get good lighting, but I would hate being restricted to just URI.


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## tpl*co (Nov 4, 2006)

When I was talking to the Icecap tech. (at the Icecap site) about what to get for the 660, he talked me out of the power compact route and said that I would be happier with the T5's on the ballast. He said that the ballast would overdrive the bulbs. Ok, stupid question, what is overdriving and what does it do to the bulb and equipment? Since I was going to get some more bulbs I needed to get some other ballast. For the second ballast I got a choice of either the Hellolights ARO or the Workhorse 7.

Tina


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Dedicated T5 ballasts feature end-of-life circuitry. As bulbs age, the voltage across them can rise, and the resulting increase in temperature could crack the bulb. The EOL circuitry shuts off the lamps when it senses that rise in voltage.

I don't know what in reality happens when you use aging T5 bulbs on non-T5 ballasts. I am running some very old 54W GE Starcoats on a T8 Advance ballast. I guess the worst that can happen is that the bulbs shatter one day. Theoretically, using the "wrong" ballast could cut their lifespan, but I am using said Starcoat bulbs for a very long time already, and they don't seem to die prematurely. Also, I wouldn't really max out the wattage of the ballast, to prevent ballast death with bulbs nearing their EOL.

I have no experience with Icecap ballasts, but the WH7 drives both NO and HO 4' T5 bulbs to 54W. I guess it is possible that the Icecap overdrives HO bulbs to 85W, this is the first time I heard that though. Not sure if this is safe... they are pretty warm at 54W already.


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## Betowess (Dec 9, 2004)

tpl*co said:


> When I was talking to the Icecap tech. (at the Icecap site) about what to get for the 660, he talked me out of the power compact route and said that I would be happier with the T5's on the ballast. He said that the ballast would overdrive the bulbs. Ok, stupid question, what is overdriving and what does it do to the bulb and equipment? Since I was going to get some more bulbs I needed to get some other ballast. For the second ballast I got a choice of either the Hellolights ARO or the Workhorse 7.
> 
> Tina


Tina, I believe it just pushes more voltage throught the tube, running it hotter/brighter. Not as safe regarding heat and possible fire starting. I would just get a couple of Universal lighting Triads, if it was me. You could sell your 660 pretty easily on swap and shop I would think.


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## tpl*co (Nov 4, 2006)

Betowess said:


> Tina, I believe it just pushes more voltage throught the tube, running it hotter/brighter. Not as safe regarding heat and possible fire starting. I would just get a couple of Universal lighting Triads, if it was me. You could sell your 660 pretty easily on swap and shop I would think.


Looking at the Universal Triad and it says it is an instant start ballast? (put out another posts on the different starting ballasts)

Saw on another site that program start ballasts are good for t5? What I came up with but not the pros and cons of each were:

Icecap 660 - soft start (is this similar or the same as program start?)
Hellolights - Rapid start electronic
Workhorse 7 - instant start.

Of course I'm still confused on what all this means, I guess I need some illumination as much as my tank! :icon_idea 

Tina


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## crazy loaches (Sep 29, 2006)

Tina, incase your interested here is a description of what the different types of ballasts mean (skip down to where it starts talking about lighting) Electrical ballast - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I dont know if the type of 'start' has ever been specific to a certain size flourescent bulb. What I mean is I have seen T12 bulbs rated for instant, rapid, or both as well as T8's, etc. It depends on the manufacture of the bulb, basicaly the instant start ballast applies more voltage to the elctrodes and as such it wears them out faster. I have used both types of bulbs all with instant start ballasts just fine. I am not to familiar with the different T5 options though since I havent had any, just now looking into them for my next tank.


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## Betowess (Dec 9, 2004)

tpl*co said:


> Looking at the Universal Triad and it says it is an instant start ballast? (put out another posts on the different starting ballasts)
> 
> Saw on another site that program start ballasts are good for t5? What I came up with but not the pros and cons of each were:
> 
> ...


The Triad is a *programmed* "rapid start" for sure.
ReefGeek | Universal Lighting | Triad T5 HO Fluorescent Ballast: 2-54W
I believe it is a microchip which directs the electrical flow... Sunlight Supply uses that same ballast I referenced earlier on Reefgeek for their quality Tek lights. Basically the ballast warms up the lamp for a few seconds before sending full current. And I don't know, but suspect it slowly increases the current as the lamp comes to full power, as they seem brighter after a while.


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## MeuserReef (Oct 26, 2006)

I like the workhorse 7.... no overdrive and you can get them cheap.


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