# New Eheim Bubbling? (FIXED!!!)



## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

It's normal to a point, I give mine a good jostle to help the bubbles find the exit. I've found a lot of that has to do with bubbles trapped in and around the media. I've never had the bubbly condition last very long though. 

You'll likely also find that with some time the filter will become silent or close enough to silent.

My suggestion is to give it a good jostle and monitor it for a little while. You'll probably hear a big "woosh" sound mixed with the sound of the impeller hitting air (gravelly). If It continues to happen check the hose connections on the intake side, you might be letting air in where the intake tube joins the hose.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Somehow air is still trapped in your filter.Tip it from side to side to release the air,or just be patient.The air will soon be purged.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

How long should I usually wait until it becomes an obnormal thing?

I have no idea how any air would get into the tubes. I pushed it all the way in and turned the device that keeps it in place. 

Oh yeah, is my priming method okay or is there a easier way etc?

Thanks for the help guys. My first canister filter :thumbsup:


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

First of all,the canister is supposed to be empty when you begin the siphon,as well as the output hose.Having water in the output hose prevents a lot of air from escaping the filter,and sometimes prevents the filter from operating at all.If you begin with a lot of air in the filter it just stands to reason that it will take longer to purge.

I believe that you wrote in a previous thread that your tank is situated on the floor.This could also be exacerbating your problem.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

Yeah, I don't have a stand for my tank. The filter is about 3 inches below the tank level and is resting on the same ground the tank is on as well.


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## t0p_sh0tta (Jan 24, 2008)

I have a 2217 that is silent, but on the other hand I have a 2215 with the same issue as yours.

I've completely draind and refilled, turned it upside down and whatever esle you can do for it, but there's still air trapped inside.

I remember reading somewhere that it can be due to a "dry" (non-lubricated) o-ring. Initially I thought it was my white pad trapping air, but it's been happening for some time now (months).


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

t0p_sh0tta said:


> I've completely draind and refilled, turned it upside down and whatever esle you can do for it, but there's still air trapped inside.
> 
> I remember reading somewhere that it can be due to a "dry" (non-lubricated) o-ring. Initially I thought it was my white pad trapping air, but it's been happening for some time now (months).


You must have an air leak in your intake line,because that air could not stay in there for months.No way.Are you sure that the noise is caused by air?

A dirty impeller housing,or a broken impeller axle could be your problem.


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## t0p_sh0tta (Jan 24, 2008)

The noise is caused by air, and the intake line is fine. The filter is 4months old.

I suspect that a weak seal is being made between the o-ring and the housings, so air is sneaking pass. I'm going to lube it later, when I move it to another tank and clean the hoses.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

t0p_sh0tta said:


> The noise is caused by air, and the intake line is fine. The filter is 4months old.
> 
> I suspect that a weak seal is being made between the o-ring and the housings, so air is sneaking pass. I'm going to lube it later, when I move it to another tank and clean the hoses.


Where do you get the lube for the o ring? Like, what kind of lube should I look under to buy the correct one.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Next time you rinse your filter DO NOT fill it with water. Once you are done simple reconnect it to the hoses and then starting with your intake turn the knobs so the water will start flowing then do the same with the output connector. DO NOT TURN IT ON YET. Once it is filled give it a little shake and turn it on. You will notice you will only get the bubbling for a few minutes this way.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Natty said:


> Where do you get the lube for the o ring? Like, what kind of lube should I look under to buy the correct one.


I have used standard vaseline. You shouldnt have to with a new filter. Just wet the ring under the sink before putting it together.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

There! I redid the whole process. Emptied the entire filter and this time I slowly let it fill from the intake to the outtake tube and then turned it on.

It seems to stop bubbling but lets cross our fingers and hope it doesn't continue.

Is there a special lube for the eheim O ring?

I heard using other methods may damage/dry up the O ring?

I made a mistake during the change and I got a bunch of water all over my rug :eek5: . Boy was it a hassle. Eh inconvinences...


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Natty said:


> I made a mistake during the change and I got a bunch of water all over my rug :eek5: . Boy was it a hassle. Eh inconvinences...


Dont we all? I have been in this hobby using canisters for almost 30 yrs and STILL manage to spill water.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

OMG ITS BUBBLING AGAIN!

This whole experience is getting me paranoid.

I woke up this morning and at first I thought it was bubbling and I was like "aw man not again!" then I found out it was some stuff moving outside so I was like "oh, thank god!" THEN it started bubbling!!!

I dont understand. When I set it up again it was working okay with no bubbles and over night it started doing it all over again?

This is such a drag, if this persist I'm going to have to return this to BigALs. I don't even want to think about shipping this thing back too, PITA. 

Anyone know a good lube that's designed for the O ring? Or is vaseline good enough? I'm going to give this a good try before I try to return it or exchange it.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Make sure all of the connectors in the hoses are tight and secure. I dont think it is the o-ring. I thing it is the various connections in the intake line. Trim and reconnect.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

fshfanatic said:


> Make sure all of the connectors in the hoses are tight and secure. I dont think it is the o-ring. I thing it is the various connections in the intake line. Trim and reconnect.


One thing I don't understand is, if it is the connectors, shouldn't it be bubbling from the start and not half a day later?

What about the lube, is vaseline the ideal lube for it or is there a safer better lube made specifically for the O ring.

Is there anyway I can test which part of the whose connections is giving me those problems so I don't have to go around cutting everything and maybe ending up not finding it even then?


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

fshfanatic said:


> Make sure all of the connectors in the hoses are tight and secure. I dont think it is the o-ring. I thing it is the various connections in the intake line. Trim and reconnect.


I agree.This filter is new so I would not monkey around with the o-ring.Do you have an air stone near your intake?I have never had a problem with air in the filter.


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Natty said:


> What about the lube, is vaseline the ideal lube for it or is there a safer better lube made specifically for the O ring.


I use "Plumber's Silicone Grease" purchased at my local Lowe's.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> I agree.This filter is new so I would not monkey around with the o-ring.Do you have an air stone near your intake?I have never had a problem with air in the filter.


I do but its completely off anyway.

I mean whats wrong with putting lube on the o ring? Isn't that what you're suppose to do later on?

So what should I do, cut the tips of all the intake connections and reconnect? Is there anyway to test to see which parts it really is so I can pinpoint it and fix it right at the source instead?



> I use "Plumber's Silicone Grease" purchased at my local Lowe's.


I have Home Depot near me, will they carry that? Any alternatives if they dont?

Whats weird is that when I shake the canister, all this bubble rushes out.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

There is nothing wrong with lubing your o-ring,I just don't see the need to with a new o-ring.

You might check to see if the connections on your quick connect are also tight.Be careful not to over tighten.


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## EdTheEdge (Jan 25, 2007)

Something is definitely wrong. I have 2 bubbles per second going into my 2217 via Rhinnox 2000. That's a lot of gas and I don't have any of the problems that you are having. It might be a bad impellar or even a fluctuation in voltage causing the impellar to slow down momentarily. Might even be an incorrectly installed implellar cover. I'd take it apart and check everything. If that doesn't show up any problems then I'd return it for service.

You can try lubing the O ring or replacing it even. But I doubt that is it.

Are you by chance sucking up and gravel or sand or snails?

What type of media are you using? Perhaps try running without media for a short while?


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> There is nothing wrong with lubing your o-ring,I just don't see the need to with a new o-ring.
> 
> You might check to see if the connections on your quick connect are also tight.Be careful not to over tighten.


Quick connect? Sorry to sound like a newb but I am one when it comes to this. 

Where's that?

Also, you said not to over tighten? I did push the hose in really tight just to make sure, is that okay or bad?


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty said:


> Quick connect? Sorry to sound like a newb but I am one when it comes to this.
> 
> Where's that?
> 
> Also, you said not to over tighten? I did push the hose in really tight just to make sure, is that okay or bad?


The quick connect is the connection with a nut in the center of your double tap valves.That is how you separate the hoses when you clean,or remove your filter.It is OK to push the hoses in tight,but never over tighten any of the fragile nuts on any of the connections.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

EdTheEdge said:


> Something is definitely wrong. I have 2 bubbles per second going into my 2217 via Rhinnox 2000. That's a lot of gas and I don't have any of the problems that you are having. It might be a bad impellar or even a fluctuation in voltage causing the impellar to slow dowm momentarily. Might even be an incorrectly installed implellar cover. I'd take it apart and check everything. If that doesn't show up any problems then I'd return it for service.
> 
> You can try lubing the O ring or replacing it even. But I doubt that is it.
> 
> ...


 
I don't think I can return it to bigALs since I went on his website and he said he'll only take back new stuff. So my comment to that is "How do I know if its not broken if I don't open it WTH?"

Is eheim company easy to deal with?

How do I check the impellars and see if its working or not? I just bought this too.

I used all the media that was included.

Carbon
*Ehfisynth*
*Ehfisubstrate*
*Ehfifix*
*Ehfimech*








Lol copy/paste


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> The quick connect is the connection with a nut in the center of your double tap valves.That is how you separate the hoses when you clean,or remove your filter.It is OK to push the hoses in tight,but never over tighten any of the fragile nuts on any of the connections.


You mean the top two things in this picture?










This might not be it either because before I didn't have this on my intake part of the tubing. I just changed this yesturday after you guys told me to do it again.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Yes.The Q Connect is the nut that holds the two halves of the double tap valves together.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

This might not be it either because before I didn't have this on my intake part of the tubing. I just changed this yesturday after you guys told me to do it again.


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

Natty, you should have the Quick Disconnect fittings in the top picture they came with your filter, correct? When you assemble it, make sure the gray Nut is away from the barbed end then push the hose onto the barbed end, then turn the gray nut down ONTO the hose & barbed end until it is snug. Only tighten with your hand!! It won't tighten completely tight. Otherwise you might crack the plastic or break off the threads in the nut.

I also use the Plumbers Silicone Grease. I got mine from Home Depot in the plumbing repair parts aisle. It comes in a little gray container. Or ask for silicone grease to use on kitchen faucets.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

deeda said:


> Natty, you should have the Quick Disconnect fittings in the top picture they came with your filter, correct? When you assemble it, make sure the gray Nut is away from the barbed end then push the hose onto the barbed end, then turn the gray nut down ONTO the hose & barbed end until it is snug. Only tighten with your hand!! It won't tighten completely tight. Otherwise you might crack the plastic or break off the threads in the nut.
> 
> I also use the Plumbers Silicone Grease. I got mine from Home Depot in the plumbing repair parts aisle. It comes in a little gray container. Or ask for silicone grease to use on kitchen faucets.


 
Yeah, I did all that.

I recently turned off the bubble injection part on the powerhead that I had inside my tank and it seems to have calmed down but only time will tell. Maybe it was because of the small bubbles that were being spitted out by the powerhead that caused it?

Since the silicone grease comes in contact with the water thats going into the tank, will it be harmful to the shrimps and fishes in there?

How much does it cost anyway?


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

No it's not harmful, that's why I recommended Plumbers silicone grease. It is made to lube the o-rings for your kitchen & bath faucets. It is a food grade grease. Mine was under $5. It's called Harvey's silicone grease in a 1/2 fl.oz. white plastic round container. Part #050090. Non-toxic, made in USA.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

deeda said:


> No it's not harmful, that's why I recommended Plumbers silicone grease. It is made to lube the o-rings for your kitchen & bath faucets. It is a food grade grease. Mine was under $5. It's called Harvey's silicone grease in a 1/2 fl.oz. white plastic round container. Part #050090. Non-toxic, made in USA.


How long is this grease good for? Is there an expiration on them?

Can I use them for the intake tubes as well? The part where the hose is joined and connected to the eheim tubes since it helps to seal air?


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty said:


> How long is this grease good for? Is there an expiration on them?
> 
> Can I use them for the intake tubes as well? The part where the hose is joined and connected to the eheim tubes since it helps to seal air?


The grease is used as a lubricant,and to protect rubber o-rings.It would not be very advisable to use this grease on the hose connections,as that could allow them to slip and to become unattached.The grease has an infinite shelf life,so that little tub will last a lifetime.

Again,I would not apply grease to ANY hose connections!


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

Yeah, I was thinking about that and thought of the same thing.

Is there anyway I can make sure that no air does seep through in the connection between the hose and tubes?

This is what I plan to do when I get home.

1. Turn off the filter
2. Disconnect the intake hose and trim about 0.5" off the tips of each side and reconnect it back onto the eheim tubes
3. Apply plumber's silicon grease to the O ring
4. Cross my fingers and hope it works

I really hope this works, I get paranoid too fast on things like this. Is this good enough or is there anything else I should check while I have the unit off?

Oh yeah can anyone answer that question that I asked before as well:

Is there any way to pinpoint the location where the air is seeping into so that I can just fix that part and not have to go around cutting a bunch of things and might end up not even fixing the problem?


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty,
Make sure that you use the grease sparingly.What I mean is to just coat the o-ring lightly,being careful not to leave any excess lubricant.You don't need much.

It is unnecessary to trim the hoses as long as the cuts are clean and square,and follow the instructions included with your filter.I don't know of any way to check the connections,but if you install them per the instructions they won't leak.

Try to relax.you have a great filter.:wink:

Oh,and BTW.Crossing your fingers is optional.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> Natty,
> Make sure that you use the grease sparingly.What I mean is to just coat the o-ring lightly,being careful not to leave any excess lubricant.You don't need much.
> 
> It is unnecessary to trim the hoses as long as the cuts are clean and square,and follow the instructions included with your filter.
> ...


 
Lol thx for the help I appreciate all the great help from everyone!

Its a great filter but maybe I got a troublesome one in the bunch :tongue: 

I used a sissor to cut the hose and I just pushed them into the tubes. So if I did that correctly then I dont need to cut trim the edges no more?

Is there anyway at all to pinpoint where the air is coming from at all? Anyone have a method?


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

You can use a spray bottle of water to spritz at every fitting. If you notice the water is being sucked into the connection (not dripping off) then snug the nut a little bit more.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

deeda said:


> You can use a spray bottle of water to spritz at every fitting. If you notice the water is being sucked into the connection (not dripping off) then snug the nut a little bit more.


Ya I tried that but I didn't know how effective it really was because nothing really happened and it was hard because I thought that it was being sucked in occasionally at random times.

Have you tried this technique and did it work?

I'll try it when I get home. I'm off to work.

Thank you for the help, if you have any further info please fill me in. Be back later.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

Hey, I went to Home Depot and after running around and trying to find a competant Home Depot staff, I ended up finding this bottle:


















The man said that silicone grease costs over $10++ for just a tiny little bottle, so I'm guessing he doesn't know what he's talking about?

Is this the right bottle to grease my eheim o ring? It doesn't say silicon grease, all it says is plumber's grease. I've looked in the bath faucet isles and I didn't find it at all. This is the only grease I found.

*PRODUCT CODE NO.*
*50811*


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

That's what I use.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> That's what I use.


YAY! Good. I was afraid it wasn't and I had to go find another source.

Now I'm going to go around with a spray bottle and test all the connections. Since its sucking bubbles in thats going to be hard. Is there any other liquids I can use to that'll stay put longer for me to tell. Water just drips off...
:icon_roll 

Should there be anything else I should do while I have the eheim off, things that I should check for and how to check for them?


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty said:


> Should there be anything else I should do while I have the eheim off, things that I should check for and how to check for them?


I can't think of anything else...good luck!


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

I just lubed the O ring.

I was wondering one thing though, how come when I shake it a little, that's when the bubbles come a lot? Is this normal?

How do I go about checking if its the impellars?


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

That is normal for awhile.. If it is pushing water, it isnt the impeller.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

fshfanatic said:


> That is normal for awhile.. If it is pushing water, it isnt the impeller.


 
Yeah, I was bringing up the impellers because of what EdTheEdge Said



EdTheEdge said:


> Something is definitely wrong. I have 2 bubbles per second going into my 2217 via Rhinnox 2000. That's a lot of gas and I don't have any of the problems that you are having. It might be a bad impellar or even a fluctuation in voltage causing the impellar to slow down momentarily. Might even be an incorrectly installed implellar cover. I'd take it apart and check everything. If that doesn't show up any problems then I'd return it for service.
> 
> You can try lubing the O ring or replacing it even. But I doubt that is it.
> 
> Are you by chance sucking up and gravel or sand or snails?


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## CrimsonKeel (Jul 12, 2004)

Mine sucked air because the top fine pad was clogged.
try running it without media or those pads for a day or so. 
also now that mine has settled in it almsot never bubbles except after a water change when there are lots of bubbles in the tank


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

CrimsonKeel said:


> Mine sucked air because the top fine pad was clogged.
> try running it without media or those pads for a day or so.
> also now that mine has settled in it almsot never bubbles except after a water change when there are lots of bubbles in the tank


 
So, I should do this in order to see if its the media or the filter itself that's creating the bubble issue right?

-------EDIT------

I've also decided to wait about two days between fixing attempts. Don't want to keep fixing it while its trying to recover, then I'll just make it worse.

Is this a good idea or should I keep fixing it if the bubbling keeps up?

I'm planning to open up the impeller housing soon and see whats up in there. Hope I get this fixed soon.

After lubricating the O ring, the bubbles have calmed down quite a bit even to this morning. I still do hear some once in awhile. Since this filter costed me $131, I'm not resting till I get the top quality out of it :wink: 

BigAl is going to have to sit down with me and have a long talk if this keeps up.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty said:


> So, I should do this in order to see if its the media or the filter itself that's creating the bubble issue right?


Whatever air that there is must come from the outside of the filter.This is a closed loop system.The media cannot generate air,and a clogged filter pad can not produce air either.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> Whatever air that there is must come from the outside of the filter.This is a closed loop system.The media cannot generate air,and a clogged filter pad can not produce air either.


How do you check if its the quick connection thats having the leak? I think I had this problem BEFORE I installed the Q connect on the intake.


=========EDIT===========

I have some pictures in question for anyone knowledgable in the classic eheim 2217 filter

What is that bottom right green thing used for? I'm guessing its for the intake tube?









--------
*NOTE: Blue arrow stands for water flow.*

Another place that I have in question about air leaking into is this area thats shown in pink, the location between where the eheim tube meets the eheim canister. (I get to use my awesome mouse pen too :biggrin: )

Can the air leak from that place? Maybe I installed something wrong in there?









-------


























are my other connections okay? Thanks.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

That green piece is for your outlet where it loops over the rim of your tank to prevent kinking.If the area in pink was leaking air,it would also leak water.

Your connections look fine.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

*GROAN*

*SNARLS*

I emptied the entire friggin canister and washed all the media and examined everthing. Refill it back again with all the media.

I opened the empeller section and examined it. All seemed to be normal up there.

Tighten the Quick connect part and the part where it connects to the hoses by screwing up the nuts even more.

Now I'm monitoring the canister

*One thing I did notice is that the air seems to be coming in from the top everytime I rattle the canister. It seems okay now but before.*


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty said:


> *GROAN**One thing I did notice is that the air seems to be coming in from the top everytime I rattle the canister. It seems okay now but before.*


You hear it on the top because that is where the air comes in contact with the impeller.I really doubt that you are leaking air.Seriously,you just have to be patient and give it some time.I don't even worry about the air anymore because I know that it will eventually escape.Put on some earplugs if you must,go shopping,whatever,but just give it some time.:wink:


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## mott (Nov 23, 2006)

^^^Agreed give it a couple of day's should be near silent in a short time.


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## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

Hey...at least you're getting a chance to get "intimate" with your new filter...most people don't get a chance to look at the impeller for quite some time...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

*ducks before Natty takes a swing at ColeMan* 

LOL


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

I think the issue is that he/she has the canister at the same level as the tank. It could take a seriously long time to rid itself of all the air trapped inside. Eheim canisters are designed to be below the tank, not on the same level.


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## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

i meant it to be some type of low-brow, sexual innuendo, so I'm glad it came across as me being an a$$ instead (like things always do)!!


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

ColeMan said:


> i meant it to be some type of low-brow, sexual innuendo, so I'm glad it came across as me being an a$$ instead (like things always do)!!


I knew what you meant.. I actually laughed. Thanks


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> I believe that you wrote in a previous thread that your tank is situated on the floor.This could also be exacerbating your problem.


Post # 5

I agree that this MUST be the problem.


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## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

lescarpentier said:


> Post # 5
> 
> I agree that this MUST be the problem.


This is what I've been thinking all along...I thought at one point it was already more or less determined that this was the case, so I've just kinda been watching to see if it, in fact, is not. There are numerous ways to test to see if this is the problem (which it most likely is); moving your tank is pretty much out of the question i would guess, so what about trying it on another tank that doesn't sit on the floor?


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## macclellan (Dec 22, 2006)

ColeMan said:


> i meant it to be some type of low-brow, sexual innuendo, so I'm glad it came across as me being an a$$ instead (like things always do)!!



Yeah, it took me a good 6 months before I got to see the impeller on my filter...lucky you!


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## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

macclellan said:


> Yeah, it took me a good 6 months before I got to see the impeller on my filter...lucky you!


6 months and how many bottles of wine?


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Interesting, checking the impeller & shaft were among the very first things I've done when setting up my new filters.


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## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

i think you're probably well ahead of the curve, although it would behoove everyone, no doubt, to follow in your footsteps.


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## CrimsonKeel (Jul 12, 2004)

lescarpentier said:


> Whatever air that there is must come from the outside of the filter.This is a closed loop system.The media cannot generate air,and a clogged filter pad can not produce air either.


agreed the clogged filter did not produce air but it increases the suction power so as to suck air past the seal where it wouldnt have without a clogged filter.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

*PROBLEM FIXED*

WOW was it a long week with me and my new eheim 2217. The bubbling drove me nuts. I just want to thank everyone for all the help and



ColeMan said:


> Hey...at least you're getting a chance to get "intimate" with your new filter...most people don't get a chance to look at the impeller for quite some time...


...I did get a lot of chances to get "intimate" with my new filter. I got the chance to hold on to it tight and boy did it get really wet sometimes. I was sweating a lot too. I kept getting the tubes stuck in odd places.

HOWEVER, I finally found the reason and I believe it was the reason.

After the last time I posted here, this is what I did:

1. I monitored the filter to see where the air was coming from. Seemed like it was being pushed down from above. My other theory was that the present air that was already in the filter, was being pushed around and downwards by the movement of the fan. I just know bubbles were coming downward from the top of the filterhead so that took out the huge possibility of it being a leakage from the intake side.

2. After about a day and a half I noticed that the bubble problem got less and less. Very gradually, but it eventually did. I wasn't hoping with joy just yet, have to make sure by waiting another day.

3. The next day the bubbles died down even more, even though there seems to still be issues with it and I was like "damn, I hope this doesn't become a daily routine" On this day I also noticed one thing. The old sponge filter that I used on the intake to prevent small fish and shrimps from getting into was a bit odd looking, I knew from it that the filter was sucking in so hard that the sponge was being sucked in, therefore blocking the passage. So I put a net over the intake to prevent any fish from being sucked in while I got out a new aquaclear filter, cut a whole large enough to install the WHOLE intake piece (the seperate cyclinder one that originally came with the filter that goes over the end of the intake). While I was doing that, the net got sucked in. That was completely stupid of me and it took me another good 15 minutes or more to dig into the canister to pull out the net (taking out all the media again... :icon_eek: )

I noticed right when I started the canister that the air was being purged A LOT faster, almost instantly, especially with a few good shakes.


*SO THEREFORE THE PROBLEM WAS THE SPONGE OVER THE INTAKE BEING CLOGGED.* Hopefully this is the whole true issue of the canister bubbling. The clogged caused it to purge the air much longer and maybe cause some leakage? I'm not sure.

I didn't think it was this before because I didn't notice it before. I also cleaned the sponge quite thoroughly. I'm guessing because it was old, it couldn't hold up to the suction of the canister filter.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Good deal. Now, dont touch the thing for 3-4 months. Enjoy.


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## lescarpentier (Feb 2, 2008)

Natty said:


> ...I did get a lot of chances to get "intimate" with my new filter. I got the chance to hold on to it tight and boy did it get really wet sometimes. I was sweating a lot too. I kept getting the tubes stuck in odd places.


This is an ambiguous statement and I am confused.Could you please rephrase it?


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Jebus... why didn't you mention the sponge in the first place? We'd have solved your problem straight away. Well, glad it's fixed. If nothing else, there are plenty of tips on operating and maintaining the classic series filters in this thread.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Natty said:


> ...I did get a lot of chances to get "intimate" with my new filter. I got the chance to hold on to it tight and boy did it get really wet sometimes. I was sweating a lot too. I kept getting the tubes stuck in odd places.


I don't even want to know what this means.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

imeridian said:


> Jebus... why didn't you mention the sponge in the first place? We'd have solved your problem straight away. Well, glad it's fixed. If nothing else, there are plenty of tips on operating and maintaining the classic series filters in this thread.


Yeah I guess I didn't. Maybe I mentioned it somewhere. I guess I never thought it was important enough to think about.

Oh yeah, anyone know how to keep the sponge from clogging up so fast?

I just want something to block small fish and shrimps from being sucked in, anyone have a better alternative then using an aquaclear sponge over the intake?


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Surface skimmer? Other than that the only way to keep them from getting sucked up in to "turn down" the flow with the knobs on the quick disconnects.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

fshfanatic said:


> Surface skimmer? Other than that the only way to keep them from getting sucked up in to "turn down" the flow with the knobs on the quick disconnects.


 
I just need something that'll prevent the frys and shrimpies from getting sucked in. I dont care if anything else gets sucked in there too.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Natty said:


> I just need something that'll prevent the frys and shrimpies from getting sucked in. I dont care if anything else gets sucked in there too.


If the sponge you are using gets clogged to fast, find a more course sponge. Bigger holes.


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## Natty (Apr 2, 2008)

fshfanatic said:


> If the sponge you are using gets clogged to fast, find a more course sponge. Bigger holes.


I'm just afraid that if the hole gets bigger on the sponges, the shrimps and fish can slip past somehow.


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## fshfanatic (Apr 20, 2006)

Then leave it the way it is. Try not to over think this.


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