# Is Special Substrate Really Worth It?



## GHulsey (Sep 4, 2010)

I recently invested in a helluva expensive lighting system (Marineland LED w/ moonlight setting, totally recommend it!) for my Leopard Ctenopoma pair (also recommend these guys!) and so I'm not looking to spend a lot of money on getting a nice simple planted tank. 

So my question is, if I'm not doing CO2, but I want a nice planted tank is it worth investing in something like ADG Aquasoil? Or are there cheaper additives I can add to make the plants grow healthier/prettier? 

I have just regular 'ole gravel in there as of now.

So, is the expensive stuff worth it? Or is there something else I can add to get similar effects without breaking the bank? 

Also, hi, I'm Gabi and I'm new here! 

Thanks in advanced for all the help!


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## lnstevens (Aug 9, 2010)

You could use Flourite (or flourite black sand) or ecocomplete. Both run $20/$30 for 20lbs at your local petsmart/petco.

Some people use various kinds of sand with root tabs (I think someone said the sand is like $5.00 for 50lbs).

Another option would be going down to the substrate section and they have a DIY thingy on how to make your own mineralized topsoil. 

Everyone will have various opinions on what is better. I use a mix of Flourite Black Sand and tahitian moon sand myself and appear to be having good luck with it.


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## neumahrs (Jan 12, 2010)

You could always use root tabs and ferts.


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## GHulsey (Sep 4, 2010)

Hi guys. Thanks for the super quick response!

Where do you suggest I get the root tabs and ferts? Also, what kinds?


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## lnstevens (Aug 9, 2010)

Rootmedic is a sponsor and member here. He goes by overstocked or over_stocked. He could answer all your fert questions.


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## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

I have lots of swords and crypts and normal substrate + root tabs works for me. I make sure to put root tabs in every 3 to 4 months. When I started this hobby I did not know much about substrate and now I do not want to go to the trouble of changing it with a better one. Maybe, some day I will.


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## VincentK (Dec 16, 2009)

I like Eco-Complete, but I've also used RootMedic with great success, you could do both Eco-Complete and RootMedic if you really wanted to get fancy. I really steered clear of Aqua Soil because of it turns to mush after a couple of years.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Well that depends on the plants you get. If you get anubia, java fern and moss you don't need special substrate. I have seen some lovely tanks with these plants. For stem plants you need good substrate or ferts for the column. Seems a waste to have a special light and get some fantastic plants like Limnophila aromatica or Rotala wallichii.

I like the Active Flora. Petco carries Active Flora. I would add API ferts to grow colorful plant like a lilly. For API tabs contain Iron sulfate, Nitrogen, Potassium carbonate, and Potassium sulfate.

Is this the light If so you will need to inject Co2 or raise it 12 above the tank.


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## lnstevens (Aug 9, 2010)

Hmm, I just realized they never said what size tank and no one asked. LOL


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

You can use just about whatever substrate you want and grow plants- but ideally use one with smaller grains than regular gravel to encourage better root growth (3mm is what I've always read is the "ideal" grain size). Pea gravel works if you're sticking with gravel.

Pool filter sand is another popular inert substrate for planted tanks.

I personally prefer substrates that have at least some nutrient content or a good CEC (cation exchange capacity) which trap nutrients and leave them available for the plants in the root zone. This helps ensure plants a steady nutrient supply even with minimal (or as in my case, the complete absence of) water column fertilizer dosing.

If want to go for a cheap nutrient-containing substrate but don't want to DIY your own mineralized substrate, I recommend you try and track down some Turface- John Deere stores and big landscaping companies usually carry it, it's a common turf additive, and especially used for sports fields.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

lnstevens said:


> Hmm, I just realized they never said what size tank and no one asked. LOL


Size is only an important factor when your are thinking of the light and your question was about substrate. I like the mineralized method for using it you usually don't have to dose anything but carbon. If your lights don't bring out the colors of the plants you have you have to dose, though.

Now I am curious as to the size? Considering the lights it seems to be a big one. Do you have a link to the lights?


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## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

I am toying with the idea of getting Eco Complete plant substrate but, I wonder how much will I need for a standard 55g.

Edit:
I called Dr Foster and I was told that I need about 110 lbs for 2" deep. Does this sound right?


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## vca2004 (Sep 7, 2009)

The 70gal in my signature was with Seachem Tahitan Moon sand (just black sand) and some Laterite as base layer only. I had med-high light and Co2 and never had any problems!


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## vca2004 (Sep 7, 2009)

Sorry, CaribSea Tahitan Moon sand, not Seachem.


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## tuffgong (Apr 13, 2010)

I've had great success with fluorite, flourite/sand mix, and just plain sand. All relatively cheap substrates. I believe the key to my success is the use of root tabs. IME all seem to pretty much work, seachem, api, and rootmedic. Rootmedic's are the cheapest and most comprehensive and seem to work the best for me. Justin/Over_Stocked is a great guy and provides top notch customer service. Take advantage of his Labor Day sale and you won't be disappointed!


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Thanks for the kind words guys!

All that being said, fancy substrate is not a must. You could get by using just water column dosing, but doing water column dosing and substrate dosing will help your plants. Find a quality substrate nutrient(ahem) and a quality liquid dosing(ahem) and dose to your needs. There are actually a lot of options for good, quality fertilizers. A few of those good options come from myself and other sponsors here at TPT(Shop local--as in forum local!). 

The best thing you can do is find something that will work best for your. If you want something super easy to dose in the substrate then buy a product. There are some DIY options out there too, if you are DIY inclined.


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## lnstevens (Aug 9, 2010)

Hilde said:


> Size is only an important factor when your are thinking of the light and your question was about substrate. I like the mineralized method for using it you usually don't have to dose anything but carbon. If your lights don't bring out the colors of the plants you have you have to dose, though.
> 
> Now I am curious as to the size? Considering the lights it seems to be a big one. Do you have a link to the lights?


Actually, size is important. It comes down to cost.....

100lbs to fill a 90 Gallon w/ 2" of sand type substrate (more for a larger/less for a smaller) and at $20/$30 a 20lb bag.....

So size can actually matter when it comes to substrate.



barbarossa4122 said:


> I am toying with the idea of getting Eco Complete plant substrate but, I wonder how much will I need for a standard 55g.
> 
> Edit:
> I called Dr Foster and I was told that I need about 110 lbs for 2" deep. Does this sound right?


Use the calculator here, that is more than is needed:
http://www.plantedtank.net/substratecalculator.html

A 90 gallon only needs about 100 lbs.


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## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thank you lnstevens. The F&S representative was way "wrong" (almost double) but, hell they want to sell as much product as they can. It looks that I need 80lbs for the 55g and 50lbs for the 29g.


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## DavidZ (Nov 17, 2009)

OK, I have to ask, so what is the price of there root tabs from rootmedic?


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Look in the swap n shop... 3 packs for 21... normally 45 

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk


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## Tex Gal (Mar 28, 2008)

All kinds of substrates can work. It really depends on what kinds of plants you want to grow. Some plants are extremely difficult and will require specialized soils. I think it also depends on how many speicies of plants you might want to keep. The more species the harder it is to be successful in the same tank. Another thing to consider is the type of water you have. You may need a soil that makes the water softer. Some substrates like eco complete tend to make the water harder (raise the pH). Some provide lots of nutrients and others don't provide any.

I'm not alone when I say that I think ADA AquaSoil is amazing! It is a great size, provides nutrients, softens the water, won't compact, etc. I have many difficult species that are growing in the same tank. I have CO2 and high light. That doesn't mean that you can't have a beautiful tank with other substrates. Jason Baliban has an amazing tank with just pool sand. All his plants in the tank take up nutrients from the water column. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/111993-project-178-a-2.html

SO... it depends on what you want to grow.....


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I think aquasoil is totally worth it, and it's not that much more expensive. The 9L bag is bigger then the 20 lb bags you get from flourite and eco complete so it evens out.

I've tried play sand, flourite, eco complete and flora base, nothing is as good as aquasoil


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## Sigmar (Feb 24, 2010)

Surprised no one mentioned SMS since one of his criteria is inexpensive.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Aquasoil is THE substrate to beat. But if you want to do it cheaper, you can with a little work. 

I had bad luck with SMS(turface actually... sms is now gone). Lots of people have good luck with it too.


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## JoraaÑ (Jun 29, 2009)

There are other cheaper way also to make tank growth in 4 weeks from fresh topping planting. No need to waste $$$ in "Special Substrate". All you need is little further research here and there~


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