# Noise/Rattle Fix! - AquaClear & Fluval C Series HOB Filters



## ycbs

I might have to try this. I've owned two AquaClear 20's and both were so loud, I had to run them with the lids off. Great filters, otherwise, but you'd think they'd figure out a way to dampen the vibrations and noise.


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## lauraleellbp

I run mine without the lids.

I'll be curious to see how long your lube job works. (And isn't there a reason you're supposed to use silicone lube rather than vaseline in aquariums...?)


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## DarkCobra

I have a rattly Aquaclear 70. I usually just leave a fert bottle on top of the lid to silence it. 

Thoroughly cleaning the impeller and housing silences it for a bit, but I've never tried lubricating it. May have to try it sometimes, thanks!


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## donnoj

Well, it's been about 12 hours since I lubed the impeller shaft and the filters are still dead silent. I'll keep everyone updated on how long it lasts for. However, even if I need to reapply the lube once a month it will be totally worth it.

Less friction equals less heat and longer lasting parts. Less friction is more efficient, especially now that the impeller isn't rattling around. The impeller is the ONLY moving part and moving parts need lube to reduce friction and extend their useful life.

It seems like the filters move more water now and the flow control has more of a range.

I searched the internet and found that regular Vaseline (100% Petroleum Jelly) was recommended as safe for fish tanks. I only used a small amount. I coated the entire shaft with a thin layer and pushed it through the impeller and magnet assembly several times to coat the inside. 

The performance and noise difference is very dramatic.

I'm really surprised that they don't lube these at the factory and/or at the very least include a small tube of lube and instructions in the box. Search the internet for noise problems with AquaClear's and many people end up returning them until they get one that's acceptable. The trouble is when the impeller shaft is not lubed they will sometimes make less or more noise especially when the impeller is caveating (bouncing around inside the motor housing). I sometimes would have to turn the filter on and off several times to get the impeller to sit correctly and make less noise. 

However, less noise and practically no noise are significantly different. When I put my ear up to the filters now I can hear the sound of the water swishing and trickling through the filter more than I can the hum of the motor. No more clicking. No more vibration to rattle the lids. Complete silence!


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## Lance Uppercut

lauraleellbp said:


> (And isn't there a reason you're supposed to use silicone lube rather than vaseline in aquariums...?)


It holds up better in water. If you ever get any on your hands you need soap to cut through the "greasiness".


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## donnoj

This is what mine sounded like:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYdCyqd-Yuw

Sometimes worse and sometimes a little better. I used to turn the filter on and off several times until the impeller seated better but it was still never quiet.

After lubing the impeller shaft with Vaseline it's now practically silent. I can not hear it running from a few feet away.


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## donnoj

Lance Uppercut said:


> It holds up better in water. If you ever get any on your hands you need soap to cut through the "greasiness".


But is silicone safe for aquarium fish and plants? Is there a brand/type that everyone uses?

In my research I noticed petroleum jelly was recommended in many aquarium manufactures manuals. I wan't so sure if silicone lube was safe. You can put petroleum on your skin and probably eat it with no harmful effects besides a case of the runs. However, I've worked with silicone lubes for other applications and had them irritate my skin if I didn't was it off right away.

If someone could point me to some posts and/or research I'd like to know. Silicone would most likely stick in place better and last longer. The petroleum jelly will likely wash/wear off faster. But if it's safer, I won't mind reapplying it every month or so. 

I am just amazed at how smooth and quiet these filters run now.


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## BaltimoreGuy

I did this before but the vasoline ended up collecting dirt and trapping it in the impeller area. For me it didn't reduce the noise either. I'm glad it worked for you though.

My problem is mainly the plastic cover that vibrates and makes noise. I placed a rubber band to create a gasket between the lid and the housing. That works good and could be used in conjunction with your vasoline method! 

Ill take a pic tonight, if there is confusion.


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## donnoj

BaltimoreGuy said:


> I did this before but the vasoline ended up collecting dirt and trapping it in the impeller area. For me it didn't reduce the noise either. I'm glad it worked for you though.
> 
> My problem is mainly the plastic cover that vibrates and makes noise. I placed a rubber band to create a gasket between the lid and the housing. That works good and could be used in conjunction with your vasoline method!
> 
> Ill take a pic tonight, if there is confusion.



The rattling cover is caused by vibration caused by the impeller.

If you take the magnetic impeller assembly out and run the motor it will be smooth. An out of balance, jammed, poorly manufactured or designed impeller is the cause. 

In my case, on two filters, lubing the shaft caused the impeller to work properly and efficiently.

Noise and heat are wasted energy. A rattling/vibrating impeller will also wear out sooner and possibly break. 

Throw some lube on that bad boy. No noise. No vibration. Just a smooth running filter (with it's lid on).


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## donnoj

I also run a sponge pre-filter on the intakes to reduce debris from jamming/damaging the impeller. It should help keep the impeller area cleaner.


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## trackhazard

People suggest using silicone lube instead of Vaseline to grease o-rings as petroleum jelly can break down certain types of rubber (like the latex used in condoms). Other than that, I believe its bio-safe. Just messy to work with

-Charlie


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## trackhazard

Also, I wanted to ask this:

Can you post a mini review of the C-series? What differentiates it from the Aquaclears? How do they compare size-wise?

Thanks!

-Charlie


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## donnoj

trackhazard said:


> People suggest using silicone lube instead of Vaseline to grease o-rings as petroleum jelly can break down certain types of rubber (like the latex used in condoms). Other than that, I believe its bio-safe. Just messy to work with
> 
> -Charlie


Is there a popular or recommended brand of silicone lube?


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## donnoj

*Fluval C-Series HOB Filters (The new AquaClears)*



trackhazard said:


> Also, I wanted to ask this:
> 
> Can you post a mini review of the C-series? What differentiates it from the Aquaclears? How do they compare size-wise?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> -Charlie


Fluval C-Series HOB Filters (The new AquaClears)

I've had the pleasure of using both of the new C2 and C3 made by Fluval. Hagen (the makers of AquaClear filters) and Fluval are part of the same company. I'm guessing Fluval branded items are geared toward the high end of the market.

I'm currently running the Fluval C2 on a 10 gallon. It's recommended for 10 to 30 gallons, and I keep it on the low flow setting most of the time as full output tends to be too strong for the fish is a 10 gallon.

The new Fluval C-Series filters seem to be a long overdue update to the AquaClear line. The build quality feel improved as well as the functionality. 

The C-Series are about the same width as comparable model AquaClears but they have a slimmer depth and deeper height. This allows you to slide your tank back closer to the wall if needed.

The water now flows from back to front through the media chambers rather than from bottom to top. Some of the water is diverted to a trickle chamber to oxygenate the water over the top of the Biomax, enhancing the conversion of ammonia and nitrite.

The water first passes through foam and then poly filter to trap particles. It then flows through a basket that can hold chemical filtration media (or in my case, extra Biomax since I don't run carbon). You could stuff the basket with more poly filter if desired too. The third basket is dedicated to holding biological ceramics, some of the water passes through the bottom of this chamber while the rest is diverted to a nozzle that trickles water over the top. There's an addition filter pad to clean the water before it trickles on the media. By the way, instead of Biomax Fluval calls it's biological media C-Nodes. They're a different shape but appear to be the same material as Biomax. Not sure if the different shape is more efficient or just marketing.

Basically, instead of stacking your media as with AquaClears you place each in a dedicated chamber that can be removed independently for quicker media change-outs. The sponge/poly filter clips into a holding cage and anyone could cut their own floss instead of buying from Fluval. Same goes for the chemical chamber. It's a basket that you can place or stuff anything you want into.

The water output has more of a curve to it, I'm thinking to prevent the sound of trickling water if your level get's a little low. The output still creates surface water movement, just less splashing than the old AquaClears.

The AquaClears are great, but these are more refined and continue to retain the same great performance and customization of media we enjoy.

Because they're new they may still cost a little more over the older AquaClears. I recommended checking out eBay for some good buy's, if your interested in trying it. Just lube the darn impeller before turning it on!


Also:
There's also a handy tab that pop's up to tell you when your floss is too dirty. The red tab rises with the water level inside the filter caused by the restricted pad. Theres also an overflow back into the tank if the level get's too high, just like on the AquaClears.


Some camera phone pics:


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## trackhazard

Dr Foster and Smith sells aquarium safe silicone lubricant:

http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3771+9708&pcatid=9708

I don't know if the regular stuff from the hardware/auto parts store works.

Thanks for the review. I might need to pick up a couple to replace some aging aquaclears I have.

Do you happen to know if the intake tubes are the same diameter? I have a couple aquaclear surface skimmers attached to my current HOBs and am wondering it the adapters will fit the fluvals.

-Charlie


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## DarkCobra

Does this mean they're going to discontinue the older style Aquaclears?

That would be a shame. I've gotten used to their quirks and rather like them. Plus I figured out how to get highly efficient CO2 diffusion out of them.

Oh, one more thing. I recall someone reported success using teflon tape to silence a noisy impeller. You'd have to wind it the opposite direction from impeller spin to keep it from coming unwound; if it spins clockwise, wind counterclockwise.


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## donnoj

trackhazard said:


> Dr Foster and Smith sells aquarium safe silicone lubricant:
> 
> http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3771+9708&pcatid=9708
> 
> I don't know if the regular stuff from the hardware/auto parts store works.
> 
> Thanks for the review. I might need to pick up a couple to replace some aging aquaclears I have.
> 
> Do you happen to know if the intake tubes are the same diameter? I have a couple aquaclear surface skimmers attached to my current HOBs and am wondering it the adapters will fit the fluvals.
> 
> -Charlie


I gave my last AquaClear away, so I'm not sure if the intake tubes are the same size. The new intake on the Fluval C-Series is black, it's length is adjustable and the grate is smaller in case you worry about small inhabitants or debris from getting sucked in. I use a sponge pre-filter on mine to protect the impeller. Overall it's a much nicer set-up IMO. I'm sure you could get the accessory to work with a home made adapter or some teflon tape.

You have some nice tanks, by the way.

I'll check out that lube.


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## donnoj

DarkCobra said:


> Does this mean they're going to discontinue the older style Aquaclears?
> 
> That would be a shame. I've gotten used to their quirks and rather like them. Plus I figured out how to get highly efficient CO2 diffusion out of them.
> 
> Oh, one more thing. I recall someone reported success using teflon tape to silence a noisy impeller. You'd have to wind it the opposite direction from impeller spin to keep it from coming unwound; if it spins clockwise, wind counterclockwise.


I doubt they will ever get rid of the AquaClears. The Fluval version is more like a deluxe model. 

Because impellers spin so fast, anything that sets them out of balance will make them rattle. I'm sure the teflon tape fix was an attempt to repair a damaged one. The problem with taping the magnet is the impeller is still inefficiently bouncing around, the noise is just subdued by the tape.


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## Hardax

I have a C3 waiting to be installed. Question donnoj. Did you find that your C2 or C3 doesnt fit down on the rim of your tank all the way? I did a test fit the other day on mine and noticed that it doesn't go all the way down. It kind of sits on a tab under the output area and the intake tube is really tight against the glass. I wonder if it is supposed to sit up further than I was expecting or if the lip on my tank is wider than usual?


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## donnoj

Hardax said:


> I have a C3 waiting to be installed. Question donnoj. Did you find that your C2 or C3 doesnt fit down on the rim of your tank all the way? I did a test fit the other day on mine and noticed that it doesn't go all the way down. It kind of sits on a tab under the output area and the intake tube is really tight against the glass. I wonder if it is supposed to sit up further than I was expecting or if the lip on my tank is wider than usual?


I checked my C2 and there's about an inch to play with. Check that the leveler at the bottom right side of the filter is adjusted correctly. Because the level adjuster is off to one side of the filter it's easy to have the filter sit crooked if your not careful.


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## jerry1

Hardax said:


> I have a C3 waiting to be installed. Question donnoj. Did you find that your C2 or C3 doesnt fit down on the rim of your tank all the way? I did a test fit the other day on mine and noticed that it doesn't go all the way down. It kind of sits on a tab under the output area and the intake tube is really tight against the glass. I wonder if it is supposed to sit up further than I was expecting or if the lip on my tank is wider than usual?



My AC's had the same problem. I thin my fake wood trim on my tank is thicker than a normal black trim tank. I had to bump up to an AC110 to get one to fit without modification.


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## donnoj

*1 year update*

Just thought I'd post an update on my Fluval C2 impeller lube, if anyones interested.

It's still dead silent, no rattle.

I also just purchased another tank and installed an AquaClear 20. It rattled out of the box. Applying some Vaseline to the impeller shaft fixed it. Silent with the lid on.


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## diwu13

So just to reiterate what you did, you remove the motor, then took the impeller out of the well. Then lubed up the entire impeller (or just the part of it that sits in the well?) with Vaseline. Put everything back together. Relaxed there was no noise. Break out the beer? 

Something along those lines?


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## donnoj

First, break out beer.

Second, remove motor from AquaClear/Fluval C.

Third, remove impeller.

Fourth, lube the shaft inside the motor. (Put a small glob on the end of the shaft, the impeller push it down the rest of the shaft when you install it.)

Fifth, install impeller on to lubed shaft and slide back down into the motor.

Sixth, install motor back onto the AquaClear/Fluval C.

Seventh, break out another beer and enjoy the silence.


ok, I've realized I used the word lube and shaft too many times for one day.


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## diwu13

donnoj said:


> ok, I've realized I used the word lube and shaft too many times for one day.


Haha! Hilarious! I guess I'll know what you're talking about when I get my AC20's soon. Guess the impeller has it's own tube, that doesn't show up in the parts manual haha.


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## fusiongt

Hehe I posted the review of the Fluval C2 on amazon that wrote the fix for it


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## Gatekeeper

Another mod for this problem. http://www.aquaticplantenthusiasts.com/equipment/4549-silence-aquaclear.html


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## sayurasem

donnoj said:


> First, break out beer.
> 
> Second, remove motor from AquaClear/Fluval C.
> 
> Third, remove impeller.
> 
> Fourth, lube the shaft inside the motor. (Put a small glob on the end of the shaft, the impeller push it down the rest of the shaft when you install it.)
> 
> Fifth, install impeller on to lubed shaft and slide back down into the motor.
> 
> Sixth, install motor back onto the AquaClear/Fluval C.
> 
> Seventh, break out another beer and enjoy the silence.
> 
> 
> ok, I've realized I used the word lube and shaft too many times for one day.


I see now, I was like... my finger is too big to lube the shaft all the way down.


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## diwu13

Gatekeeper said:


> Another mod for this problem. http://www.aquaticplantenthusiasts.com/equipment/4549-silence-aquaclear.html


Teflon tape is safe in the aquarium?


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## donnoj

fusiongt said:


> Hehe I posted the review of the Fluval C2 on amazon that wrote the fix for it


Nice review on amazon. Nice that other's will learn of the vaseline trick. I've read so many complaints about the AquaClears (and Fluval C's) rattling and the solution has always been to return it or remove the lid. Hopefully more people will keep them now a get to enjoy what great filters the AC's and C Series are!


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## donnoj

diwu13 said:


> Teflon tape is safe in the aquarium?


teflon tape should be safe, but there is no need for that additional step as the problem is solved by lubing the shaft. 

I've been running the fluval c2 and a few ac's for a year now noise free. I will also so add that I have not needed to take them appart to clean them or apply more lube. 

In fact I just started another tank...the ac 20 impeller rattled, the lid vibrated, and sometimes the impeler would get stuck when turning it back on...all fixed by lubing the shaft.


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## diwu13

A bit off topic but have you modded the AC filters at all besides adding the lube? I was planning on adding an extension bend to the intake tube if you don't mind checking out my AC thread. You seem to know a lot about ACs


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## diwu13

Well, got my AC20's in and they both rattled. Listened to this fix and now they are both silent. Works.


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## RiseAbove

well i know what im doing when i get home.


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## Julianzh

the C2 is giving me a headache, i lubed the shaft with huge amount already, but still making that noise. im going to give the tape a go and see if that helps.


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## TheNailman

I just tried this on a old, beat up Aquaclear 70. The noise was driving me batty. 
rattle is gone.


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## biogenetic40379

julianzh, you may just need a new impeller (could be worn out and old) I would send them an email


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## JB62NJ

i tried this fix on my fluval c3 and it did NOT work. rattle is still there unfortunately.


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## BS87

Wanted to share that I did this to my new AquaClear 50 that was noisy, and it made it very quiet. I also applied a very fine coating of the 100% petroleum jelly to the contact areas of the lid (anywhere it touches the body) and that helped even more. Such a simple fix. All you can hear now is the water hitting the surface.


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## temple2101

Just wanted to say thanks for this. Worked for my new AquaClear 30. Not dead silent, but way better than it was. Thanks!


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## AndreyT

In my experience, all Hagen AquaClear filters rattle when new. The rattle disappears by itself after the filter has been run for some time.


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## lakemake

*used silicone lub*

Thanks guys for your tips.
My Aqua Clear 20 made rattling noise from the beginning. I couldn't ignore it after a few days. I tried silicone lubrication for my Arai helmet. I don't know if it is aquarium safe. I applied to the metal shaft of the impeller. Instantly the noise has gone away. But there is noise from the lid. I can take if off when I go to bed.


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## Noyabronok

Newb here. Registered to reply  My brand new filter was just a little noisy, but adding the lid added a lot of noise. Petroleum jelly reduced impeller reduced some noise. The lid still made things much worse. So I did a bit of experimenting and discovered that the noise was mostly coming from the back corner where the impeller is. I added some padding to both of the back corners, so that the lid doesn't sit tight on the back, but the noise is gone!


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## Lowcountry

Great fix! How long does it last?


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## Noyabronok

*still works*



Lowcountry said:


> Great fix! How long does it last?


Still working - about 5 months now


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## EvilFish

But silicone is safe for aquarium use?


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## Racedoc

Eheim makes an aquarium maintenance spray that is safe, and from what I can tell is just pure silicone. I use it on all o-rings and gaskets and never had a problem. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## HUNTER

I've tried Vaseline and only worked for a bit. One thing that will make it dead silent is when it's been running for a while, at least mine did until it won't turn on anymore. Cleaned it and started like new again, put Vaseline but not as silent as when it had some sludge in the impeller shaft. Vibration noise is just the HOB's nature.


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## zuc

Sorry to raise this post from the dead again, but I have this problem still. I tried everything, teflon tape with vaseline, vaseline only, teflon only, but nothing worked. The closest I got to a quiet filter was with vaseline only, but it worked for about 30 minutes before getting noisy again.

Does anyone know what's going on? Am I just doomed with a noisy filter? :|


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## Diana

Could some sand have gotten in there are scarred something?
The blade of the impeller
The shaft
The walls around it

Any of these would alter the path the impeller follows as it rotates. So it shifts back and forth at high speed. The impeller may be bumping into things, or the off-center rotation may be setting up a vibration that is then making something else rattle (perhaps a loose lid).


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## zuc

Oh yeah, forgot to mention that it's a brand-new filter  I think the shaft may be off-centered but that seems impossible to fix properly


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## coubob

Hello all, i`m new here. 6 months ago i bought a fluval c4 & it started that rattle so thanks to yall i lubed the shaft up with Vaseline,its better now,but while i had it apart i noticed the shaft was really worn so i just flipped it and put it back in.I`m going to buy a new motor i guess that has a new shaft in it and lube it up before it gets used,should i also use that tape too?and will that keep the shaft from getting worn so fast? Is there any other shafts that could work without me having to buy a whole new motor too.


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## kman

trackhazard said:


> People suggest using silicone lube instead of Vaseline to grease o-rings as petroleum jelly can break down certain types of rubber (like the latex used in condoms). Other than that, I believe its bio-safe. Just messy to work with
> 
> -Charlie


Like dissolves like.

Standard rubber o-rings are petroleum products, as is Vaseline. Like-like.

Vaseline can dissolve rubber, or turn it sticky/gooey as the outer surface breaks down. There are other effects, too, such as temporary swelling (big problem if you have a waterproof seal by an o-ring in a scuba-diving light).

Best to use silicone lube on rubber o-rings, as a result. If you have silicone or EPDM, Viton or Buna-Nitrile o-rings, petroleum jelly is the way to go, for the same reason.


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## ChuckM

Surprised no one noticed this, but check out a guy named Steve S. on the YouTube machine. I think he's hit on what the root problem is.

I just brought an AC 110 online and hear this rattle. It's not loud enough to be more than a minor nuisance, but I'm going to take a look at what he's on about on my own motor. It seems to be a combination of the rotor (which people seem to be lubricating before sliding on the shaft) not spinning smoothly in the motor due to magnetic resistance, and the impeller being able to rotate independent of the rotor. Two plastic keys that make contact, one on the rotor and one on the impeller, seem to start to chatter as the rotor speeds up and slows down, multiple times per second.


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## apastuszak

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but I thought I could add some value.

For silicone lubricant, look for one that is specifically labeled as "food safe." That's probably your best bet for fish safety.

And if you have an old Aquaclear that still makes noise after you lubricate it, replace the impeller shaft. A lot of people don't know that they're wear and tear items that need occasional replacement.

Here is a random image I found on Google that shows two worn Aquaclear 110 impeller shafts next to a new one.










When I replaced the impeller shafts in my AC70s, they looked bad. Verry worn and rust all over the place.


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## Smellydeli

They're indeed consumable items. I replaced three shafts from three filters after over a decade of use. The thinnest point on one of those was 0.69mm! I didn't want to pay $6 per shaft so I bought some SS 2mm diameter rods and cut it down to size.


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## ChuckM

So I've been living with 2 AQ's, a 110 and a 30, for two years now and they're for the most part silent. But when I do start to hear a rattle it's almost guaranteed to be the sponges I have on the intakes getting clogged. Pull them off, rinse and reinstall and everything's quiet again.
My earlier suspicion about the impeller rattle proved to not be the issue since my fixes had no effect. Not to disparage the original YT video I watched where the problem was documented. That still seems like a valid point.
I've also seen the wear on the spindles and replaced (Amazon has them). And also the lids on these are ridiculously flimsy and often it just takes a check that they're on securely, or maybe just a tap or two.


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