# Thinktank: Starting an ADA Mini-L



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

So I am a big nano tank fan, and I'm looking at ideas for my next nano tank. I have decided I want to do an ADA Mini-L.

I have narrowed down choices based on the charts below. Filter wise I want a cheap nano canister filter that can be placed below the tank without loss of flow and has the ability to have an in-line filter attached. 

Light wise... I'm looking for anything that can grow high-light level plants, but is also slim.. I was looking at some of Archaea's LED clamps which are super thin... however they don't have enough power to grow the plants. These are the lights I have looked into. If you have any others that come to mine please share.

I want this tank to be beautiful and materialistic looking... so I want equipment that is well hidden or wont distract from the aesthetic appeal of such a beautiful tank.


















If you have any suggestions at all please let me know! Thanks for reading~


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Also, if anyone has any experience with the Beamworks LED fixtures please let me know


----------



## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

Use a 2213 for the Mini L. This will offer you appropriate flow, biological filtration capacity and later on, lily pipe sizes for the Mini L.


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

I'd avoid the Fluval co2 kit at all costs. 

But if you do go with the Fluval co2 I think the 36w archaea light may be too much. 

I don't own it so I can't really speak for its quality but I think 27w would be more appropriate. 


Also depending on livestock and where the tank is kept you might find a heater completely unnecessary, it all depends on how warm the ambient temp is though. 

I'd ditch the gush pod for the time being and try to put money towards a proper co2 system with a 5lb tank.


edit: And I agree with Frank on the filter, I have a 2213 on my Mini M and it's great, can't imagine a 2211 on the Mini L, plus having the same size tubing for inflow and outflow is a bonus as well.


----------



## Coursair (Apr 16, 2011)

I have the 45cm Archaea LED on my rimless 10g. It grows plants fine. 

I'm growing low to med light plants. No CO2.


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

Coursair said:


> I have the 45cm Archaea LED on my rimless 10g. It grows plants fine.
> 
> I'm growing low to med light plants. No CO2.


You are the first person I've heard of who uses it. Can you compare the brightness to any other lighting setups?


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Francis Xavier said:


> Use a 2213 for the Mini L. This will offer you appropriate flow, biological filtration capacity and later on, lily pipe sizes for the Mini L.


This tank is only going to be shrimps with maybe a dwarf orange cray later on. Hence the small canister, though I thought the 2211 would be overkill for the Mini-L? Would the lily pipes work on the 2211?





Chlorophile said:


> I'd avoid the Fluval co2 kit at all costs.
> 
> But if you do go with the Fluval co2 I think the 36w archaea light may be too much.
> 
> I don't own it so I can't really speak for its quality but I think 27w would be more appropriate.


Why avoid the Fluval C02? Just curious on that, you are the first one to say anything about it. What would you do instead? I was looking at the 27w lamp but kept seeing that because of the size of the tank, some high-level plants may not grow as fast because of the length of the light compared to the 36w. 

And would you stick to the PC over the LEDs?


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Coursair said:


> I have the 45cm Archaea LED on my rimless 10g. It grows plants fine.
> 
> I'm growing low to med light plants. No CO2.


Thats all i see.. Its great for the med-light. I want to try doing a UG carpet.. so that may cause an issue.. though honestly this is my favorite light out of all of them I have seen. Its beautiful.


----------



## antbug (May 28, 2010)

I have a Mini L with a 2211. Get the 2213. 

Also listen to what Chlorophile is telling you about co2. I have a 5lb tank on mine now, but before that I had a paintball setup. The Fluval kit will be a waste of money in the end. 

I also have the 36w Archaea PC light. IMO, it's the best light for the Mini L. Check out my Mini L thread and let me know if you have any questions. 

Can I ask where you are getting a 2211 for $59? Also your inline heater cost seams a little high.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

antbug said:


> I have a Mini L with a 2211. Get the 2213.
> 
> Also listen to what Chlorophile is telling you about co2. I have a 5lb tank on mine now, but before that I had a paintball setup. The Fluval kit will be a waste of money in the end.
> 
> ...


Eheim 2211 - Amazon

Does the 2211 just seem slow to you on returns?

This is the first time I will ever be using co2... I practically no nothing on the subject so I'm trying to find out something thats not overly expensive but will work. Do you have any other suggestions on the co2?

Do you think the 27w light would be fine here, or should i go for the 36w to be safe?

And where are you finding the in-line heater for cheaper? I've searched everywhere lol


----------



## antbug (May 28, 2010)

Great price on the 2211. I paid $70 locally and it was a good buy at the time.

The 2211 does ok on the min L. With a pre-filter it slows down a lot more. Remember that most filters are rated with no media in them. Add media, purigen and a pre-filter and ...... The 2213 also has a media basket. If you get the 2211 you'll see why this is a great feature.

I just purchased a 2213 impeller, which I heard will help a little. If I knew now what I didn't know then, I would have got the 2213. 

co2 is a big topic. If you are even thinking of med-high light anything, you'll need a solid co2 setup. Even with a paintball setup you'll have to turn it on and off each day or let it run (really slow) 24/7. Inconsistent co2 levels will cause BBA in a heartbeat. If you go with the Fluval or paintball setup, run it 24/7. 

The 36w light, extended all the way up, will produce around 40umuls at the substrait. Tom Barr once told me that 40umols at sub could grow ANY plant well. 

A quick ebay search turned up several seller for around $40 on the heater. Even pet mountain has it cheaper than what you found.


----------



## Coursair (Apr 16, 2011)

Chlorophile said:


> You are the first person I've heard of who uses it. Can you compare the brightness to any other lighting setups?


Low light. Almost same exact values as my two mini CFLs 20w total on my other 10g. 

I grow Crypts
Ludwigia
Blyxa
Etc. 

Here are bad pics of my tank. My Anubias flowered in the tank while free floating. 

I just throw odds and ends in there. No 'scape to speak of. I just hacked it all back. My Ludwigia and Duckweed had gone crazy. 

The pic w the Betta is older. My Crypt nurii Pahang Mutated got shaded out, but is growing back


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Coursair said:


> Low light. Almost same exact values as my two mini CFLs 20w total on my other 10g.


Yeah thats the unfortunate thing. Too Bad!  I wish they had made it stronger. Its such a nice light. 



antbug said:


> Great price on the 2211. I paid $70 locally and it was a good buy at the time.
> 
> The 2211 does ok on the min L. With a pre-filter it slows down a lot more. Remember that most filters are rated with no media in them. Add media, purigen and a pre-filter and ...... The 2213 also has a media basket. If you get the 2211 you'll see why this is a great feature.
> 
> ...


I'll look more into the 2213, the basket with it sounds like a nice addition too. 
Co2... man thats probably going to be the thing I wrap my head around and bang it on the desk. I'd be game for doing a paintball setup or something of the sort... I just have no idea how to do so, or how much its gonna cost to do it. Cant you put a regulator on it and have it kick on on a timed event?

Its going to be a draw for me with the 27w vs the 36w. I dont mind if the light is lower, though I guess in the long run maybe the 36w would be a better choice.


----------



## smokaah (Nov 30, 2011)

The fluval mini co2 is not so bad for a starter kit. I quickly switched to an aquaticlife regulator with solenoid. Solenoid is the way to go because you can hook up your Co2 to a timer Mine shuts off a couple hours before my lights. Works great.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

smokaah said:


> The fluval mini co2 is not so bad for a starter kit. I quickly switched to an aquaticlife regulator with solenoid. Solenoid is the way to go because you can hook up your Co2 to a timer Mine shuts off a couple hours before my lights. Works great.


Thats nice... I'm seeing prices for that at about 150... which kinda hurts the pocket lol. Where did you get yours?


BTW Where in York do you live? I just moved from there to Frederick (Mom lives in York still)... dont know anyone on the forums from there haha


----------



## antbug (May 28, 2010)

No on and off with the paintball setup. There is no regulator so the pressure would be too much for the solenoid. 

You can get a nice co2 setup for not much around here. You just need to look for the right deals. I have a brand new single stage Air product reg I could sell you? Then, there are a few power sellers here that have great post body kits. If you could find a co2 tank local for cheap you could get a nice setup for around $150 or less. You'll have to shop, but it's totally possible.

Trust me when I tell you that turning your co2 on and off each day will drive you nuts. On top of that, you will have to adjust the needle valve all the time. All of this will result in BBA and your beautiful tank that you spend so much money and time on are not up to par. You should be looking at your co2 setup before lily pipes and gush products and all that other fancy stuff that will just be covered in algae. 



I could also sell you my old paintball setup? Just a thought, but honestly, don't go that route. If you're going for that "show tank' on this one, do it right.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

antbug said:


> No on and off with the paintball setup. There is no regulator so the pressure would be too much for the solenoid.
> 
> You can get a nice co2 setup for not much around here. You just need to look for the right deals. I have a brand new single stage Air product reg I could sell you? Then, there are a few power sellers here that have great post body kits. If you could find a co2 tank local for cheap you could get a nice setup for around $150 or less. You'll have to shop, but it's totally possible.


I'll keep that in mind. This is about a month or so before I set out for purchasing though


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

In my opinion, and many people may agree with me on this, buying a co2 setup that will definitely be thrown out within maybe 1 year is just a waste.

It isn't a bad system but it's a bad combination. 

You want to grow plants like UG.
You want the 36w light. 

That means you will need to have a consistent co2 supply, the levels you will need during the day are high enough that you won't really want co2 running 24/7.
Also if it is a shrimp tank, you probably want to be on the lower end of how much co2 you are cranking into the tank. 

A good co2 system will allow you to be confident that your co2 supply won't fluctuate too much. Fluctuations can kill shrimp and cause algae depending on which direction they are in.

Antbug has the 36w light and thinks its perfect for the Mini L, so I would definitely take his word on that, but you have to consider that he is probably providing good co2 levels and consistently. 

With a shrimp tank, you may want lower light so that you don't need to drive the co2 as high. 
The 27w could be a better alternative for that reason, especially if you get the fluval co2 because it will run out quickly. 


As for 2211 vs 2213 - in a shrimp tank you could get away with the 2211, in fact it may be the better choice. 

The 2211 I used to have on my Mini M would get clogged quite quickly and the flow would reduce drastically, so I went with the 2213 in hopes that it wouldn't clog as quickly, and when it did the flow would still be acceptable.

Plus you can also turn the 2213's flow down by adjusting the quick disconnects on the outflow.

But I'll also say, that I now have a 2211 on a 20g shrimp tank. There is very minimal flow and detritus definitely settles on the tank bottom, but the shrimp are doing fine. 



Again, you may not even need the heater, especially if it is shrimp only. 

The fluval co2 refills are around 20-30 bucks online, wont last very long, and will quickly add up to the cost of a proper co2 setup.



I don't know what your actual budget constraints are but I bet you could get a 5lb tank and everything else you need for around $150

I never had the cash to buy everything all at once so I started with a co2 tank and a post body kit and then got a regulator a month later, but that meant a month of not having water in my tank. 
You could buy the fluval kit and use it till you could piece together a good co2 system/till the fluval kit runs out of gas.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sponsors-power-seller-specials/148226-fs-co2-supplies.html

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/s...pressurized-system-post-body.html#post1414015

Everything you would need can be bought from those two sellers other than the co2 cylinder and a co2 diffuser.
Cylinder could be bought here http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2/C5.shtml


----------



## smokaah (Nov 30, 2011)

I live in east York toward Hellam. I bought mine from That Fish Place in Lancaster PA. It's a great LFS. It's huge and they have everything you need. Their website also has everything if u can't make it there, although I think Amazon has the regulator cheaper.


----------



## smokaah (Nov 30, 2011)

Have you considered a Fuval EBI 7.9? I just got one with all the equipment +co2 and stratum for 85$. Includes 13w fluorescent light. Mine is about ready for shrimp which I plan on adding soon. I actually paid 45 because I opened an Amazon Card, which is also pretty cool.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

smokaah said:


> Have you considered a Fuval EBI 7.9? I just got one with all the equipment +co2 and stratum for 85$. Includes 13w fluorescent light. Mine is about ready for shrimp which I plan on adding soon. I actually paid 45 because I opened an Amazon Card, which is also pretty cool.


This idea actually started out as Fluval Flora Vs. ADA Mini-L. I love hagen but I wanted to see how crystal clear these ADA tanks really are...



smokaah said:


> I live in east York toward Hellam. I bought mine from That Fish Place in Lancaster PA. It's a great LFS. It's huge and they have everything you need. Their website also has everything if u can't make it there, although I think Amazon has the regulator cheaper.


Yeah I love ThatFishPlace.. actually applied to work there once. That is my go to place for fish since im new to MD and dont know many places that are even half as good as that.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Chlorophile said:


> You want to grow plants like UG.
> You want the 36w light.
> 
> That means you will need to have a consistent co2 supply, the levels you will need during the day are high enough that you won't really want co2 running 24/7.
> ...



Well would you need that lighting for dwarf hair grass to carpet, or will the 27w work. The only reason i actually want a co2 unit is so i can get a carpeting plant for shrimp besides moss. I love moss but want to try something else.


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

Lludu said:


> Well would you need that lighting for dwarf hair grass to carpet, or will the 27w work. The only reason i actually want a co2 unit is so i can get a carpeting plant for shrimp besides moss. I love moss but want to try something else.


Yea you could grow DHG with 27w or 36w. 
The co2 is the main element in its growth. 

The thing I don't know is if the 27w archaea light will have the correct coverage due to its length for the tank, I don't know how high it can be raised up either which will affect the coverage as well.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Chlorophile said:


> Yea you could grow DHG with 27w or 36w.
> The co2 is the main element in its growth.
> 
> The thing I don't know is if the 27w archaea light will have the correct coverage due to its length for the tank, I don't know how high it can be raised up either which will affect the coverage as well.


Yeah the 27w is 11 5/8 inch compared to the 36w at 18 1/2, just slightly oversized for the mini-L


----------



## Dollface (Sep 30, 2008)

Lludu said:


> Yeah the 27w is 11 5/8 inch compared to the 36w at 18 1/2, just slightly oversized for the mini-L


I just shipped my 27w otherwise I'd give you comparison photos of the light spread between it and the 36w.

Keep in mind, the bulb itself is maybe 10", and even over a Mini-M, there were some drop offs on the side where the spread didn't quite reach.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

So... Narrowing down the list... 

Only things that I think will changed at this point in time is the co2 setup... maybe the light..


I would still like to know any possibilities or insight about any part of the setup you guys have.

You have and are being tremendous helps~ roud:


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

Lludu said:


> So... Narrowing down the list...
> 
> Only things that I think will changed at this point in time is the co2 setup... maybe the light..
> 
> ...



Where are you going to keep the tank and what are your stocking plans? 
Still wondering if you need a heater at all.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Chlorophile said:


> Where are you going to keep the tank and what are your stocking plans?
> Still wondering if you need a heater at all.


This tank is going to be kept in a medium size room in my house. All I plan on stocking fauna wise is shrimp. I might put in some oto cats and a CPO later on, but the main purpose of this tank is to be a shrimp tank where they dont have to worry about being eaten. However, adding the CPO will make that iffy haha, depends on the mentality of the individual.


----------



## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Have you read the lighting stickies? 

Watts Per Gallon isn't really something you should be basing a new tank on.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

somewhatshocked said:


> Have you read the lighting stickies?
> 
> Watts Per Gallon isn't really something you should be basing a new tank on.


I realize this, even more so in a nano tank I'm just using it as reference. I've been looking at par values but I don't have a meter to test and dont have figures for the lights in a mini-l


----------



## Dollface (Sep 30, 2008)

The best route to choose a suitable light is hobbist anecdotes, I've found. WPG is too antiquated, and PAR is too needlessly convoluted. The hobby zeitgeist usually knows what's up.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Dollface said:


> The best route to choose a suitable light is hobbist anecdotes, I've found. WPG is too antiquated, and PAR is too needlessly convoluted. The hobby zeitgeist usually knows what's up.


yeah i agree... hence just a reference point. I'm most likely going to be shooting for the 36w for the length, though I may go with the 27w simply because the only real plant I have that will be using the light strength the most will be the carpeting plant... the other flora that will be in here will most likely be medium-light range and-or moss..


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

Lludu said:


> yeah i agree... hence just a reference point. I'm most likely going to be shooting for the 36w for the length, though I may go with the 27w simply because the only real plant I have that will be using the light strength the most will be the carpeting plant... the other flora that will be in here will most likely be medium-light range and-or moss..


Honestly I think you'd be okay with the 27w but it is just a guess. 
You're almost always better off with less light than more light in my opinion. 

Does anyone know the bulb length on the 27w?

Unless it is only 5 inches long I don't think there will be a coverage issue.


----------



## Dollface (Sep 30, 2008)

Dollface said:


> I just shipped my 27w otherwise I'd give you comparison photos of the light spread between it and the 36w.
> 
> *Keep in mind, the bulb itself is maybe 10", and even over a Mini-M, there were some drop offs on the side where the spread didn't quite reach.*





Chlorophile said:


> Honestly I think you'd be okay with the 27w but it is just a guess.
> You're almost always better off with less light than more light in my opinion.
> 
> Does anyone know the bulb length on the 27w?
> ...


Even if the 27w could cover the L, the fact is it would look ridiculous.

Edit: WRT the CO2, if you're thinking about going 'medium-tech' with CO2 supplemented I'd look into a jaggedfury style paintball regulator. People have had a lot of success with that set up.


----------



## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

Dollface said:


> Even if the 27w could cover the L, the fact is it would look ridiculous.


Wow! I agree with dollface! :hihi:

Yeah, aesthetically, it would be... pathetic. lol

And functionally... even more so...


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

I don't get it?
It would look ridiculous as in too small?


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

Oh I didn't see what you posted about the mini m earlier dollface.

A 10 inch bulb had drop off at the ends of a 14 inch tank?
I take it you had the light pretty low because it wasn't intense enough for you?

Again my concern is the OP won't want to drive his co2 high enough to keep that tank algae free with the 37w if he wants to keep/breed shrimp in it.


----------



## Dollface (Sep 30, 2008)

Chlorophile said:


> I don't get it?
> It would look ridiculous as in too small?





Chlorophile said:


> Oh I didn't see what you posted about the mini m earlier dollface.
> 
> A 10 inch bulb had drop off at the ends of a 14 inch tank?
> I take it you had the light pretty low because it wasn't intense enough for you?
> ...


I did have the light relatively low and centered on the tank, more out of a confined space rather than lack of light. The ideal range was about mid way of the fixtures extension, which made for full coverage of the substrate, with only minor drop off in the top corners.

The biggest factor however would be the height of the tank, for one. the S and M are relatively close in height, the L however is significantly taller, in relative nano terms, and to get full coverage of the tank you'd probably have to have the fixture fully extending, at which point it would be even more under powered, unless you're doing some sort of extremely centralized scape. 

Plus, I stand by my opinion that it'd just look silly.


----------



## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

When I had a mini L running, I ran the 36w 8000K CF ADA bulb in an old fashioned coralife fixture, these were the results:










The archaea light should work, but I had the fixture lying on top of the tank.

No real need to bump up co2 more than usual. I'd even recommend double 36w in some kind of pendant suspended 12 inches.


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

I like around 15ppm for shrimp to be prolific with co2 as opposed to the 30-40 I push in fish only tanks, but then again I hate when rubisco bonds to oxygen instead of co2 more than most people. 
My 20 gallon shrimp tank is rocking 27 watts of spiral fluorescent and I have a thick low growing HM carpet in there, happy shrimp, and no algae except green dust on the glass from too much light hitting it.

I remember iwannagofast thought his 27w was too bright for the mini m so he put window screen over it. He has a thick hair grass carpet in that tank.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Well I am more than open to looking at other lighting fixtures around the same pricing range as the archaea lights. I liked the look of the marine double brights, but i'm not sure if that would give enough power to grow the carpets. 

The hardest thing for me is actually finding one that fits the size of the L. It measures at 17.71inches in length... so I wasnt sure if the 18inch fixtures would work or have a tendenacy to slip... however looking on ADGShop and ADANA, they list it as 18... so I guess my worries are hollow there.

But like I said, I'd be more than happy to hear about other lighting fixtures that could possibly be better. I just figured with the Archaea clips it'd be less to deal with then worrying about the overall length of the fixture vs the mini-L


----------



## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

Lludu said:


> Well I am more than open to looking at other lighting fixtures around the same pricing range as the archaea lights. I liked the look of the marine double brights, but i'm not sure if that would give enough power to grow the carpets.
> 
> The hardest thing for me is actually finding one that fits the size of the L. It measures at 17.71inches in length... so I wasnt sure if the 18inch fixtures would work or have a tendenacy to slip... however looking on ADGShop and ADANA, they list it as 18... so I guess my worries are hollow there.
> 
> But like I said, I'd be more than happy to hear about other lighting fixtures that could possibly be better. I just figured with the Archaea clips it'd be less to deal with then worrying about the overall length of the fixture vs the mini-L


I've never used an Archaea light, so I can't judge it completely. I've only seen it on set ups and what not (the bulb, the most important part, is an ADA bulb, so it does work). 

That said, having used fixtures of similar types, it seems the cord in the back hanging down would get annoying. Only matters if you care for that kind of thing.

Look for any 18" fixture which has a "square pin," this will allow you to swap in the ADA bulbs and be worry-free. 

Originally on a Mini L, like I previously mentioned, I just use a coralife fixture. the overhang is enough for it to sit squarely on the tank. Today I probably wouldn't do that just for aesthetic purposes. But during my original planted tank exposure craze, I went a bit nuts with tanks and budget became limited.


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

I thought the archaea fixture used an American 4 prong bulb where they are all in a line? 
I couldn't find any bulbs like the ADA bulbs anywhere in the US so I just assumed archaea was on a US bulb.
I'm probably wrong though.

The cord would bother me too


----------



## Dollface (Sep 30, 2008)

The archaea does use a 4 prong in a line on my old 27w fixture at least. The connectors were individually soldered on however, so it may be possible to adapt it to a square pin configuration to use ADA bulbs. I can check my 36w version momentarily.

The thing about the archaea fixtures is that there really isn't a direct equivalent on the market for the price range.


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Dollface said:


> The archaea does use a 4 prong in a line on my old 27w fixture at least. The connectors were individually soldered on however, so it may be possible to adapt it to a square pin configuration to use ADA bulbs. I can check my 36w version momentarily.
> 
> The thing about the archaea fixtures is that there really isn't a direct equivalent on the market for the price range.


That was why I had narrowed it down to Archaea, because of the pricing. It is a decent price and compared to other fixtures it looks to be thinner and less blah when next to a piece of artwork like the ADA tanks. The main thing I want to be able to keep is the clean aesthetics with minimal distractions

I would love the Current Pendant overhang lights or find a stand that can have overhanging light fixtures to remove the lights from the tank completely, however... both of those get into expensive ranges lol


----------



## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Or, for roughly $100, you can go full-on with a dual-stage regulator, 5-10lb cylinder, solenoid, timer, ceramic diffuser. Much safer, more reliable, easier to fine tune, more likely to get your investment back if you ever decide to part with it.



Dollface said:


> Edit: WRT the CO2, if you're thinking about going 'medium-tech' with CO2 supplemented I'd look into a jaggedfury style paintball regulator. People have had a lot of success with that set up.


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/aquascaping/75469-mini-l-friendship.html

Mini L with Archaea 27w clip on.

edit: bad example nvm


edit edit: here is a Mini L with 36w archaea over it


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Chlorophile said:


> http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/aquascaping/75469-mini-l-friendship.html
> 
> Mini L with Archaea 27w clip on.
> 
> edit: bad example nvm


Thats too bad, I would like to see one with a 27w on it...



Chlorophile said:


> edit edit: here is a Mini L with 36w archaea over it


Does the 36w reach to the center of the tank, or it is more towards the back?


----------



## antbug (May 28, 2010)

Depends on the height. It can be low and all the way toward the front or strait up and all the way in the back. It's easy to center the 36w and have room to lower or raise it up. I have mine as high as it will go, but still centered and my par readings are 40-44 umols at my sub and around 120-135 at the water line. Dude get the 36w!


----------



## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

antbug said:


> Depends on the height. It can be low and all the way toward the front or strait up and all the way in the back. It's easy to center the 36w and have room to lower or raise it up. I have mine as high as it will go, but still centered and my par readings are 40-44 umols at my sub and around 120-135 at the water line. Dude get the 36w!


Didn't know you had par readings on it, that's sweet.
40-44 is perfect.

Get the 36w!


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

Lol 36w fan club anyone?
Its awesome to have the par readings thanks for that  

Now to figure out the rest (co2) meh


----------



## antbug (May 28, 2010)

I have a list at each inch of the tank. I'll see if I can find it.

edit: Found it!


CF 36w 6500k
120 Waterline
77 2" below
55 4" below
53 6" below
53 8" below
49 10" below (at sub)


----------



## Lludu (Mar 4, 2012)

antbug said:


> I have a list at each inch of the tank. I'll see if I can find it.
> 
> edit: Found it!
> 
> ...


That is awesome ant thanks.


----------

