# A Review and Comparison: Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 Fixture



## Immortal1

I have this light as well - 24" version. The touch thing is not the greatest. I have the light on a timer so i really only needed to mess with the touch switch initially and a few times when I adjusted the briteness.
I will say I can back up their claim it is water proof - sort of. While removing the glass top (was in a hurry) I bumped the light and the end with the touch switch fell into the tank - like 50% of the lite was in the tank.
The light was not very happy and was doing many weird light cycles then turned off. I could not get it to turn back on. Finally realized the touch switch was very wet and not liking it. Allowed it to dry off, plugged the light back in and it has worked just fine for the last 3 months. 

Good product.


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## micheljq

Thanks a lot for the feedback and the PAR readings


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## CoryWM

Same club Seattle Aquarist. I recently fell in love with the Fluval 2.0 as well. I put out a video yesterday on it and thought it might be a good idea to include it with his findings as well. If not, not meaning to hijack, and willing to take it down etc.

I tested par, but also focused on testing the waterproof features of it.


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## smackpixi

I really appreciate how you included the watt draw for the fixtures. Par obviously is the important stat, but readings are way less reliable, just look at the largely unchallenged scores for t8 fixtures in the par thread, not even close to accurate.

With fluorescents, 32 watt bulbs are all drawing about 32 watts. With LEDs 100 watts of capacity will actually be anywhere from 20 to 60 in actuall power draw...and how much is drawn explains a lot.


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## jeffkrol

smackpixi said:


> I really appreciate how you included the watt draw for the fixtures. Par obviously is the important stat, but readings are way less reliable, just look at the largely unchallenged scores for t8 fixtures in the par thread, not even close to accurate.
> 
> With fluorescents, 32 watt bulbs are all drawing about 32 watts. With LEDs 100 watts of capacity will actually be anywhere from 20 to 60 in actuall power draw...and how much is drawn explains a lot.


Well you need to add a bit more clarity here.
Lights like the Beamswork, when tested w/ a kill a watt meter have been shown to draw exactly as stated BUT this of course is not diode watts..
BUT neither is it for tubes either:


> *How does ballast factor affect energy usage?*
> 
> When you’re trying to get the most savings and efficiency out of a linear fluorescent system, the first place you typically look is the lamp wattage. You might think that a 32W fluorescent T8 consumes 32W and a 25W high-efficiency fluorescent T8 consumes 25W.
> Not exactly.
> A fluorescent lamp carries a wattage rating, but we calculate the actual wattage of a fluorescent system based on the _system wattage_, which includes the impact of the ballast factor.
> To calculate the system wattage of a fluorescent fixture you multiply the lamp wattage by the number of lamps and the ballast factor.
> *Lamp wattage*_ x_* number of lamps *_x_* ballast factor *​ *= *​ *Total system wattage*​


http://insights.regencylighting.com...r-and-how-does-it-affect-my-fluorescent-tubes

Getting into constant current drive LED's, if I have a 1000mA driver and I measure the voltage across the diode at 3 volts.. it IS a 3W diode..
IF it a current "state of the art" diode that would produce in excess of 300 lumens. If it is a cheaper diode of lower efficiency it will produce maybe 1/2 of that.
There are other complications..
http://phys.org/news/2012-03-efficiency.html



> As the researchers explain in their study, the key to achieving a power conversion efficiency above 100%, i.e., “unity efficiency,” is to greatly decrease the applied voltage. According to their calculations, as the voltage is halved, the input power is decreased by a factor of 4, while the emitted light power scales linearly with voltage so that it’s also only halved. In other words, an LED’s efficiency increases as its output power decreases. (The inverse of this relationship - that LED efficiency decreases as its output power increases - is one of the biggest hurdles in designing bright, efficient LED lights.)


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi @CoryWM,

Thanks Cory for that informative video! What I liked most about the video was the "dunking"; to be truthful I just didn't have the guts to dump my new Fluval into a tank to test the 'waterproof' claim. Thank you for performing that demonstration; I would not have believed they could handle being submerged for an hour, especially with the pressure of a three (3') depth.

FYI everyone Cory is the owner of Aquarium Co-op. a great LFS that is located north of Seattle in Edmonds. Aquarium Co-op is a GSAS Sponsor Store, they provide discounts to members on merchandise, plants, and fish. Also Cory purchases many fish from GSAS members that breed some extraordinary species. I have known Cory for several years, he is a avid hobbyist, fish breeder, and occasionally even dabbles lightly in planted tanks! I should say that Cory has been a staunch supporter of Finnex LED lights for several years - so to hear him state that he was impressed enough with the Fluval unit to consider selling it is a huge endorsement.

I believe that Cory is using the Apogee MQ-500 PAR meter while my measurements were taken with the older model MQ-200 PAR meter; so while the PAR numbers will be similar his are likely more accurate. The GSAS PAR meter was sent in last week to Apogee for an MQ200 to MQ500 upgrade which consists of new software and the new sensor. Apogee received our meter on Thursday, did the upgrade, and shipped the unit back to us on Friday - 24 hour turn-around is excellent customer service!


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## Immortal1

Just watched the full video - very impressive. I certainly feel better knowing my 10 second dunk in 8-12" water did not hurt the light. His video also did a better job explaining why the light freaked out when the button got wet. Again, no big deal, just dry it off and all is good.

Nice to know you have such a good LFS in that area. Thanks for the thread.


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## smackpixi

@jeffkroll

If I plug my twin tube 48" fluorescent into he KillaWatt it say 63.2. About as expected. I realize that some of that energy powers the system, but is there much difference in ballast efficency? Enough that it impacts light output? I do understand that bulbs vary greatly.

With LEDs I mostly figured a new 1w LED diode is pretty much the same regardless of "quality". A Cree might last longer, and degrade slower, than a no name, but at least initially they are pretty much the same. Is that not true? Do good ones produce more light and less heat with the same input energy?

I started caring about this while looking into some el-cheapo e27 54 watt LEDs for my aquaponic setup. The good ones generally consume 30-35 watts but some of the "China bulbs" draw as little as 13 watts and are producing a lot less light allbeit more efficiently I guess. As such I came to believe that energy consumed was the single most important factor to know in judging a LED light (after the wavelengths).

Some of your post is more technical than I can follow, but if I understand you correctly, you're saying good diodes can be up to 2x as efficient (more light less heat) than cheap ones?


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi @jeffkroll & @smackpixi,

I believe that it would be more appropriate if you would like to do a separate thread regarding florescents, LEDs, and ballasts instead of walking all over this thread which deals with Fluval F&P 2.0 - thank you.


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## chappy6107

this thread has sparked my interest in the Fluval f&p 2.0. I have been really looking at the finnex. now I have another option to consider.


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## infolific

Thanks for sharing your findings. One feature that I'm trying to make sure I get with my next set for LED lights is the ability to set a timer with 3 stages: daylight (to grow plants), night (enough light for me to see, but not so much to trigger plant/algae) growth, and totally off (I'm sleeping, no need for any light). Based on other reviews of Finnex lights such as the Ray2, this can't be done. Even the Finnex 24/7 doesn't allow you to control the 3 stages to your liking despite having a built-in 24 cycle (from my understanding, happy to be wrong).

The Current-USA I believe requires adding the Ramp Timer Pro to achieve what've I've described. Otherwise it just has day-time and night-time modes on the timer.

Does the Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 give you this kind of control?


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## Nlewis

With the addition of the wifi controller it should be. 

https://youtu.be/0UFszuRE30M


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## infolific

The wifi controller is interesting. Thanks for mentioning in. It's a shame that it costs so much.

I saw in the comments that wifi interference can result in the lights turning on in the middle of the night.

And apparently if power is lost you need to log back in with the app to reset the schedule. That's kind of a bummer for anyone relying on this when traveling.

Overall the controller isn't being received well by Amazon.com customers.


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi @infolific,

I honestly do not know but it may be possible. Fluval does offer a 'Wi-Fi' option (which I did not purchase) that allows adjustable "ramp up" "ramp down" "break" and "night" periods that you can program via an app that is available in IOS or Android. Here is a link to the pdf of the Wi-Fi manual which I skimmed.


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi All,

Just an FYI that Ken's Fish is again running a special of 10% off on the Fluval F&P 2.0 with free shipping with orders over $75. Coupon Code: *fluval*



> Fluval LED lights & Aquaclear Filters & Fluval Canister Filters,FX Filters 10% off use coupon code fluval


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## clownplanted

How are you getting more par at 14" than 12"? i know its a diff size tank but the depth is different I assume at the same angle? sorry I am probably an idiot but just wondering.

Bump: From your par readings it seems the fluval drops off more than the Finnex the further you go down. I will have my par meter next week and will do detailed par readings for my finnex 24/7 starting at 23" from light to substrate.


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi clownplanted,

Welcome to TPT!

That was an error on my part. It was pointed out to me in January in this thread (post #10); this is what I wrote:



> Hi xxxx,
> 
> You are correct, the numbers for the 20 gallon seem 'off'; I rechecked the reading I wrote down at the time and the 145 was what I recorded. The 30 gallon seems to almost exactly match the Fluval F&P 2.0 specs. I suspect that the reason was a poor tester (me!). The middle of my 20 gallon is filled with two large pieces of Malaysian driftwood and a large grouping of 10" C. wendtii. So instead of taking the measurements directly below the fixture, like I did with the other tanks, I took the readings within a couple of inches of the front glass. This probably caused the sensor not only to pick up the direct light from the fixture but also the reflected light off of the glass....my bad!


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## clownplanted

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi clownplanted,
> 
> Welcome to TPT!
> 
> That was an error on my part. It was pointed out to me in January in this thread (post #10); this is what I wrote:


Oh ok makes complete sense now. Sorry was just scratching my head but I knew there had to be an explanation so thanks for clearing it up. I am one to look at the details of things :smile2:


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## Aflac

I just ordered this light for my new tank I'm setting up and I had a few questions for any of you that might be running this light.

Is there any way to have the lights ramp up and down without buying the wifi controller??

Also, how do you pick what intensity to run your lights at?? I'll be putting this on a 55g (21" tall) and I'm not sure if I start out with dimmer light or just run it full blast from the start.

It seems like the reviews on the wifi controller aren't that great so far (depending on which site you go to) and at $150 (Canada prices suck) minimum for it I can't see be picking it up any time soon.

Any suggestions or comments on a starting place for intensity would be greatly appreciated.


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## freshestemo412

I have this light and Ill give me review and opinion on it, and by far no expert on reviews, but heres what I have seen so far.

I bought it 6 months ago for my 20 long. Started using it based off the aquarium and dialed in the intensity with the 'touch' button and tried to get it right. Started noticing some BBA, so I raised my light up around 6" from the water so now I have 18" to the substrate. So far from the 6 months, I have a couple complaints and overall have had some pretty good results. Ill try to list whatever I can below based from my opinion from using the light.

- Surprisingly, its very bright. For being 24"-34", it lights up the entire aquarium. I was skeptical at first, but I got a good deal at my LFS and couldnt pass it up to try.
- Plants have grown well, based on intensity, ferts, and so forth. Ive noticed a lot of growth from this light, as well as my BBA, actually had too much light at once.
- My red plants stay red, yellow are yellow. The light keeps the color in the tank.
- Easy to maintain. "Set it and forget it" kind of thing. I found a setting which my plants like and have always had it on a timer. I dont need bells and whistles, its a light. Its not going to make me breakfast.
- Yes it does get warm to the touch, but mine has never gotten hot. After all its putting out so much light, what would you expect?
- The best part is Fluval's 3 year warranty.

Here are some things I wish they would have done:

- Please stop making lights that fit X inches to X inches. I absolutely hate this. Make the fixture fit the actual aquarium regardless of light spread.
- The 'touch button' to dial intensity is... meh. I wish they had a dial like Kessil, or a slide bar. Granted the WiFi controller if that does that, but Im not paying an extra $100+ for that feature. I still to this day have no idea what intensity I have or how much light % its pushing out, so its pretty much guessing at all times.
- Power brick, still is big. I wish all companies could get smaller bricks. 

Now saying all that, just a quick little write up since I saw this on the page, was before coffee. I think its a good light, but for me I am moving on and will be selling my light to try and experiment with another fixture. The biggest thing for me after 6 months is the length. I really wish is was 30" long. My OCD kicks in every time I see it and I want to fix it but I cant.


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## DiegoBedoyaVision

Hi there I have a few questions. I'm looking to buy the Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 fixture as well, but I have a 55 Gallon tank and I do see that your post is based on a 40G tank as biggest size you tested it on. Do you think the 36" would still work on a 55 Gallon tank for plants?

Also, I checked Ken's Fish and discount code "fluval" still works, however it is now 10% discount (not 15%).


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi DiegoBedoyaVision,

I would not recommend the 36" fixture for a 48" long tank. Even with the 120 degree lenses on the Fluval F&P 2.0 you will see a substantial drop off in light in the corners and along the sides of the tank. I would suggest waiting until you can get the 48" version.


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## DiegoBedoyaVision

So I would need to go with the size bigger which is this one Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 Full Spectrum Performance LED 48-60 Inch or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluval-Fres...460281?hash=item41a2dff439:g:A~sAAOSwImRYE-ws ?


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## Seattle_Aquarist

DiegoBedoyaVision said:


> So I would need to go with the size bigger which is this one Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 Full Spectrum Performance LED 48-60 Inch or [Ebay Link Removed] Fresh & Plant 2.0 LED Strip Light 59 W 48?- 60? | eBay[/url] ?


Hi DiegoBedoyaVision,

That is the one I would go with for a 55 gallon; in fact that is the size I put on my 48" long 75 gallon and it provides plenty of light for the plants I want to grow.


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## DiegoBedoyaVision

Great thank you!


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## Rare

I also have the fluval 2.0. 36-48 inch. Its a pretty good light. It sits right on the rim of the tank! I keep mine at 100% intensity all the time. I think if you decrease the intensity, then itll be too weak. Its just strong enough at 100% IMO. I guess it depends on the kind of plants ur growing also. I grow mostly higher light needed plants. It grows plants pretty well. Not the best light but definitely not the worst. Better than Finnex planted +. I would buy this light again.

And thanks for the 10% coupon at kens fish. It still works. Thinking about starting new farm tank and probably i will get this light.

Thanks to Seattle Aquarist for the coupon and this thread!

THUMBS UP!


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## reddhawkk

I just bought two of these, a 24"-34" and a 36"-48", one for my 29 and one for a 45 tall that I will be setting up. The light for the 29 replaced a Beamswork that I used because I had it sitting around. The difference is amazing! I am really glad I found this thread, thanks Seattle_Aquarist!


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi All,

Ken's Fish (kensfish.com) continues to offer Fluval products with a discount - I received an e-mail today (4/13/17). Free shipping on orders over $49.00



> Fluval LED lights & Aquaclear Filters & Fluval Canister Filters,FX Filters 10% off use coupon code: *fluval*
> 
> Save $5.00 for orders over $100.00 use coupon code: *save100*
> 
> Save $10.00 for orders over $150 use coupon code: *save150*


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## AquaLady86

Can u combine those?

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## AquaLady86

Nice!

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk


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## vijay_06

Does anyone know whether the blue light can be turned off completely with the Wifi controller? 


As per the demo video from fluval on youtube, the led goes into blue light mode after sunset mode and only the intensity of the blue light can be changed. I am planning to put 2 of these on my 75 gallon along with a wifi controller and do not want the blue light to be too bright late in the night.


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## Rhenerie

vijay_06 said:


> Does anyone know whether the blue light can be turned off completely with the Wifi controller?
> 
> 
> As per the demo video from fluval on youtube, the led goes into blue light mode after sunset mode and only the intensity of the blue light can be changed. I am planning to put 2 of these on my 75 gallon along with a wifi controller and do not want the blue light to be too bright late in the night.


Yes it can be turned of completely. Basically there are two channels of control, white and blue. You can set entire schedules for each.. so even if you want like a moon rise with the blue light you could do that. I was playing and set the blues to be on at 20% for 2 hours after the lights go off.. then fade to 0% over 2 hours.


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## vijay_06

Rhenerie said:


> Yes it can be turned of completely. Basically there are two channels of control, white and blue. You can set entire schedules for each.. so even if you want like a moon rise with the blue light you could do that. I was playing and set the blues to be on at 20% for 2 hours after the lights go off.. then fade to 0% over 2 hours.


Good to know that it is completely customizable. 

How are you liking this LED? I was very confused between a T5 HO fixture or this, and have decided to go with 2 of these LEDs for my 75G high tech.


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## Aflac

How are you guys liking the wifi controller?? I have this light and the fact I have no idea what setting my light is on when I dim it drives me crazy. I'm having a hard time justifying the cost of the controller though.


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## Rhenerie

Full disclosure, I am not growing anything under these lights yet. They are for my current project 75g, using 2 of these fixtures. However I have played with them alot. So as far as growth and color rendition I can only go off of others reviews. 

That aside, I will say I am happy with the wifi controller. To clarify however.
Do I think it's worth $80-90: No
Would I still buy it again: Yes
Does the app suck: kinda, when you get it working it's fine.
Wifi issues: Yes. I have to use my older smartphone. My current Google pixel will not connect through the app. It works great on my old Moto X first gen

The reason I would buy this again and the reason I am Happy with it is because I view it as a package deal. In that, if you were to buy two current satellite pro plus lights it would cost more, but you are also essentially buying two controllers. The Fluval has more PAR than the Current sat LEDs but less adjustability. So for me I just planned on the wifi controller being part of the cost... It should be cheaper.. maybe $40-60..

This is the gist of what it is capable of.
Independent control of fixture 1 and fixture 2.. within each fixture, independent control of channel 1 and channel 2 (white and blue light respectively).. so with two lights you will have to customize 4 schedules.

It can obviously Controll time on/off. Ramp up/ramp down. Example lights on at 9am and off at 2pm and you could have the fixture actually come on at 8am and off at 3pm and have 1hour ramps. So 0% to say 80% at a linear rate over an hour's time. You can also program one break during on time. This could be up or down. So 9am on at 60% 12noon too 100% till 1pm, back to 60% then off at 3pm.

The only other Controll is "cloud effect" which is a random intensity (below your max) change during on time. So it's like a slow constant intensity shift to simulate clouds moving in front of the sun. 

Also just to clarify, I see this misunderstanding alot with these kind of Controll devices.. the lights are NOT controlled by a wifi signal.. the phone app and wifi signal is used to program the internal microcontroller which intern carries out the programed schedule... So once it's programed wifi signal is meaningless.. this is also another reason I am ok with it being kind of spotty. Once it's set it's done.


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## Aflac

That's a pretty solid review of the controller for sure. Thanks Rhenerie!!! 

I'm up in Canada and for me the controller is $150+ and I just can't bring myself to pay that much after what I paid for the light. Maybe I'll get it down the road but right now it just doesn't seem worth it. 

I've had the light running for about a month now and if it had a way to tell what intensity the light was at when it's dimmed it'd be so much better. That's my only gripe with this fixture.


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## vijay_06

Rhenerie said:


> Full disclosure, I am not growing anything under these lights yet. They are for my current project 75g, using 2 of these fixtures. However I have played with them alot. So as far as growth and color rendition I can only go off of others reviews.
> 
> That aside, I will say I am happy with the wifi controller. To clarify however.
> Do I think it's worth $80-90: No
> Would I still buy it again: Yes
> Does the app suck: kinda, when you get it working it's fine.
> Wifi issues: Yes. I have to use my older smartphone. My current Google pixel will not connect through the app. It works great on my old Moto X first gen
> 
> The reason I would buy this again and the reason I am Happy with it is because I view it as a package deal. In that, if you were to buy two current satellite pro plus lights it would cost more, but you are also essentially buying two controllers. The Fluval has more PAR than the Current sat LEDs but less adjustability. So for me I just planned on the wifi controller being part of the cost... It should be cheaper.. maybe $40-60..
> 
> This is the gist of what it is capable of.
> Independent control of fixture 1 and fixture 2.. within each fixture, independent control of channel 1 and channel 2 (white and blue light respectively).. so with two lights you will have to customize 4 schedules.
> 
> It can obviously Controll time on/off. Ramp up/ramp down. Example lights on at 9am and off at 2pm and you could have the fixture actually come on at 8am and off at 3pm and have 1hour ramps. So 0% to say 80% at a linear rate over an hour's time. You can also program one break during on time. This could be up or down. So 9am on at 60% 12noon too 100% till 1pm, back to 60% then off at 3pm.
> 
> The only other Controll is "cloud effect" which is a random intensity (below your max) change during on time. So it's like a slow constant intensity shift to simulate clouds moving in front of the sun.
> 
> Also just to clarify, I see this misunderstanding alot with these kind of Controll devices.. the lights are NOT controlled by a wifi signal.. the phone app and wifi signal is used to program the internal microcontroller which intern carries out the programed schedule... So once it's programed wifi signal is meaningless.. this is also another reason I am ok with it being kind of spotty. Once it's set it's done.


Thanks for the details. 

"So once it's programed wifi signal is meaningless" - This should help clear misconception for a lot of folks.. it does, at least for me.


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## vijay_06

Does anyone have more feedback about the wifi controller? I see mixed views about it - Lights not turning on/off as per the schedule, failure of the controller itself, etc. 


I am torn between the below 2 options for my high tech 75 gallon.


1. Two Fluval 2.0 with a wifi controller
2. One Fluval 2.0 with a Current USA Satellite Plus Pro


If the wifi controller can be reliable, I would love to go with two Fluvals given their 3 year warranty and water proofing.


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## PharmDawgRx

I'm seriously considering this light for my 120 gallon 60x18x26 (LxWxH) tank. Any suggestions on how many and which sizes to buy? The largest light is only 48 inches, so there will be 6in on each end without coverage, but I'm hoping the light will spread enough. I could buy a 36 inch and a 24 inch to go the full length of 60 inches if needed. However, I'm also concerned about the height. Will I need 2 rows of these lights in order to grow medium to high light plants? I could always buy two 48 inch lights if absolutely necessary. I'm kind of hoping that one 48 inch light is enough at full intensity, but I just don't know.


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## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi PharmDawgRx,

Welcome to TPT!

Last spring I tested the Fluval F&P 2.0 on my 45 gallon high (24" tall) with our clubs old Apogee SQ-200 PAR meter and at the substrate level (about 3" of substrate) the reading was [email protected] (58 X 1.08) which is medium light. We recently upgraded the PAR meter to the Apogee Model SQ-510 but I have no readings with the new meter. I run the Fluval F&P 2.0 on a 30 gallon long and on a 75 gallon. With the 120 degree lenses on the LEDs the front to back dispersion of light is very even on the 12" wide tanks and fairly even on the 18" wide tanks.

If it were me I would start with a 48"-60" model and see if the 'drop off' of light at the ends is acceptable and if you have sufficient light to grow the species you want. If not, I would purchase a second 48"-60" model and then run both providing good light at the ends with a little more light in the middle. I run mine on digital timers and don't worry about touch control after I get the output adjusted the way I want it.


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## irishspy

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> I run mine on digital timers and don't worry about touch control after I get the output adjusted the way I want it.


Roy, if you don't mind a quick tangent, what digital timers do you use?


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## Seattle_Aquarist

irishspy said:


> Roy, if you don't mind a quick tangent, what digital timers do you use?


Hi @irishspy,

I have been using the *Defiant Digital Daylight Adjusting Heavy Duty Timers (#49808)* for almost 2 years now and they work very, very well. 

Handles Incandescent, CFL, and LED fixures; up to 1800 watts / 15 amps
Can handle two( 2) 3 prong (grounded) plugs per timer (but not separate programming)**
Multiple On/Off periods per day**
Option for separate weekday and weekend programs
Programming backed up so not lost during power outage (capacitor not battery)**
Available at Home Depot
Daylight Adjusting Option
Sold by Home Depot
Price under $15 each

** Features I especially like since I run two fixtures off of one timer; I run split photoperiods; and when the power goes off, even for several hours, the timer does not need to be re-programmed


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## PharmDawgRx

Seattle_Aquarist

Thank you very much! That helped me out tremendously. I'm a few inches deeper, so I really think I will need 2 lights since I want to grow some carpeting plants. And as you said, that'll help me get light better distributed on the sides. I'll take a pic one day and share it. It might be a while though..... lol


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## irishspy

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @irishspy,
> 
> I have been using the *Defiant Digital Daylight Adjusting Heavy Duty Timers (#49808)* for almost 2 years now and they work very, very well.


Thanks much!


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## SKYE.__.HIGH

Hello @Seattle_Aquarist 

Do you know if it is the same par at the sides of the aquarium than at the center. And do you think it would be high light for and aquarium that's 65 gallons 48in~18in~18in
I will have 2-5 inches of substrate throughout the aquarium. It will of course have co2 injection and ferts.


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## KrypleBerry

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> A Review and Comparison: Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 Fixture
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I did a fair amount of research prior to purchasing the subject fixture reading information I could find online about features as well as output and did a comparison of the fixture against comparable fixtures such as the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 and the Satellite Plus Pro Freshwater.
> 
> Here is a summary of what I found:
> *
> Satellite Plus Pro:* 45 watts; 44 LEDs total; adjustable color spectrum; adjustable brightness; [email protected]”; PAR=75@16”; 120 degree lenses; 1 year warranty Potential issues: Not fully sealed; remote control issues reported
> *
> Finnex Planted+ 24/7:* 35.8 watts; 108 LEDs total; adjustable color spectrum; adjustable brightness; [email protected]”; [email protected]”; unknown degree lenses; 6 month warranty; Potential issues: Not fully sealed; moisture issues with board and LEDs
> *
> Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0:* 46 watts; 252 LEDs total; fixed color spectrum 7500K; adjustable brightness 100% - 10%; [email protected]”; [email protected]”; 120 degree lenses; 3 year warranty; fully sealed unit Potential issues: ‘touch’ control takes some practice (I did not try the WiFi model)
> 
> I purchased a 36”-46” model of the subject fixture from Ken’s Fish on 5/14/16 for $136.00 (15% off – coupon code: *fluval* )*** including shipping. It arrived on 5/26/16 having traveled cross-country by slow mule (aka FedEx). It was very well packaged with the fixture box enclosed in a large brown corrugated box with bubble-wrap for cushioning.
> 
> *** As of 7/27/16 the coupon code is still good
> 
> Why did I decide on the Fluval F&P 2.0 over the other units?
> 1) 120 degree lenses
> 2) Much better warranty than other choices (3 yr verses 1 yr or 6 mo)
> 3) Warranty backed up by Fluval/Hagen with service center here in the U.S. and an 800 number.
> 4) Fully sealed unit, no moisture issues to deal with
> 5) Did not need ‘automatic’ ramp up/ramp down….all of my tanks are on digital timers
> 
> I had checked out our club (Greater Seattle Aquarium Society) Apogee MQ-200 Par Meter in anticipation of its arrival and after unpacking the unit I read the instructions (which were pretty simple) and proceeded to install it on my 30 gallon (36” long). It took me a while to understand how to use the ‘touch control’ which is has two purposes. With a quick touch it cycles the light between off/on/all LEDs (including blue)/blue LEDs only. If I ‘touch and hold’ maintaining contact with the touch sensor if the light is in the all LEDs mode or blue only LEDs mode it will gradually dim or brighten the output light intensity. It took me a while to figure out that ‘touch’ is not the same as ‘push’ and it took some time to getting used to the controls.
> 
> I tried the Fluval F&P 2.0 on several different tanks and recorded the PAR readings; this is what I found:
> 
> On my 45 Gallon (tall – 36.3" x 12.7" x 23.8" high) 20” rim to substrate
> w/dirty VersaTop [email protected]
> w/clean VersaTop [email protected]
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected]
> 
> On my 20 Gallon (24.3" x 12.5" x 16.8" high) 14” rim to substrate
> w/dirty VersaTop [email protected]
> w/clean VersaTop [email protected]
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected] @ max output
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected] @ min output
> 
> On my 30 Gallon 36.3" x 12.7" x 16.8" high) 12” rim to substrate
> w/dirty VersaTop [email protected]
> w/clean VersaTop [email protected]
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected] @ max output
> 
> What is my opinion? I like the unit. The ‘touch’ control still is a challenge from time to time. I’ve run it at maximum output for almost two (2) months and there have been no issues with LEDs or overheating. The unit is warm to the touch but certainly no hot.
> 
> What would make it better? Although I prefer 7000+K for the light spectrum on my tanks the 7500K rating on this unit seems a little ‘warmer’ to me than that. I would like the individual color controls that the other two units have.
> 
> 45 Gallon with Fluval F&P 2.0; shortly after major re-work of 'scape


Found ya! Well, Im convinced fluval beats out the competition. Now to decide on one or two fixtures.


----------



## irishspy

Thanks for posting the PAR data! Do you think this is only for high-light/hi-tech tanks, or would it work well with a tank of mostly anubias, crypts, and java fern?


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi irishspy,

Because the light is adjustable from 100 output to 10% output you could use it at a lower output for your medium/low light plants and then if you decide to change your 'scape later and go with species that like a little more light all you have to do is increase the output.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi All,

It looks like Kensfish.com is continuing their sale of Fluval LED lights and filters; I got this in an e-mail this afternoon.



> Fluval LED lights & Aquaclear Filters & Fluval Canister Filters,FX Filters, Northfin Food 15% off use coupon code *fluval*


----------



## vijay_06

Hi Seattle_Aquarist and all Fluval 2.0 users,

I am running 2 of these LEDs on a Fluval WiFi timer. What are the pros and cons (from plant growth perspective) of running the blue/night lights channel at 100% when the daylight channel lights are also running at 100%? 

Just running the daylights make the tank look very warm, but I am fine if that will be the best for plant growth.


----------



## jeffkrol

#'s of photons is the most important figure.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

vijay_06 said:


> Hi Seattle_Aquarist and all Fluval 2.0 users,
> 
> I am running 2 of these LEDs on a Fluval WiFi timer. What are the pros and cons (from plant growth perspective) of running the blue/night lights channel at 100% when the daylight channel lights are also running at 100%?
> 
> Just running the daylights make the tank look very warm, but I am fine if that will be the best for plant growth.


Hi vijay_06,

jeffkrol is correct, the total amount of PAR will likely give you the best growth assuming there are sufficient nutrients and carbon available. Although plants photosynthesize most efficiently at about 1500K (deep red) and 6700K (Blue) plants are capable of utilizing all colors of the light spectrum for photosynthesis. Therefore, if it were me I would run the blue lights with the 'daylight channel' both at 100%.


----------



## vijay_06

jeffkrol said:


> #'s of photons is the most important figure.


Thank you! I will increase the blue light intensity to counter the overly warm look.


----------



## Deanna

I’m considering trying something other than GroBeam’s on a new tank and your Fluval comments intrigued me. My current GroBeams are excellent, but I like to try new possibilities when I see rave reviews, such as yours. However, I also found a current multi-brand LED review on “Aquarium Article Digest” (https://aquarium-digest.com/tag/aquaray-led-review/) that is not very kind to Fluval:

“However, the Fluval still use multiple no-name low cost emitters that are daisy chained together, instead of fewer HO quality emitters run with appropriate drivers/circuitry such as the AI, AquaRay, and other premium LEDs.
It is well known that it is not cost efficient to drive high numbers of emitters with proper voltage, so daisy chaining is used for LEDs such as the fluval, Satellite, & Finnex. This results in lower spectral quality (PUR) and lower efficiency which shows in the low PAR and PUR output per input wattage. As well dimming is analog, which also lowers spectral quality.”

Now that you’ve used the Fluval for a while, how would you characterize your plant growth? Is it completely to your satisfaction or are there some aspects of your plants that you would like to see improved? If so, what improvements would make your plant growth better?


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi Deanna,

I continue to like the Fluval F&P 2.0 units I have. I don't worry about 'ramping' or 'lightning storms'; I run my units on digital timers with split photoperiods so I can enjoy my tanks when I am around. I wanted fixtures that produced an adequate amount of light for good plant growth and in a appropriate spectrum that made the fish look 'natural' and not 'washed out'. I also wanted a fixture with a good warranty (3 yr) from a company with a good reputation and a service department with an 800 number to call if any problems.

How is my plant growth? It is very good, any issues I have are typically nutrient related not related to light availability. Is the Fluval F&P 'the perfect fixture'? Probably not. I would like a fixture that allowed me to control the output spectrum and had an outstanding warranty and service reputation. The AquaRay GroBeam 1500 is expensive, especially for an 8" X 8" unit, but it might be worth exploring.


----------



## KrypleBerry

KrypleBerry said:


> Seattle_Aquarist said:
> 
> 
> 
> A Review and Comparison: Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0 Fixture
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I did a fair amount of research prior to purchasing the subject fixture reading information I could find online about features as well as output and did a comparison of the fixture against comparable fixtures such as the Finnex Planted+ 24/7 and the Satellite Plus Pro Freshwater.
> 
> Here is a summary of what I found:
> *
> Satellite Plus Pro:* 45 watts; 44 LEDs total; adjustable color spectrum; adjustable brightness; [email protected]”; PAR=75@16”; 120 degree lenses; 1 year warranty Potential issues: Not fully sealed; remote control issues reported
> *
> Finnex Planted+ 24/7:* 35.8 watts; 108 LEDs total; adjustable color spectrum; adjustable brightness; [email protected]”; [email protected]”; unknown degree lenses; 6 month warranty; Potential issues: Not fully sealed; moisture issues with board and LEDs
> *
> Fluval Fresh & Plant 2.0:* 46 watts; 252 LEDs total; fixed color spectrum 7500K; adjustable brightness 100% - 10%; [email protected]”; [email protected]”; 120 degree lenses; 3 year warranty; fully sealed unit Potential issues: ‘touch’ control takes some practice (I did not try the WiFi model)
> 
> I purchased a 36”-46” model of the subject fixture from Ken’s Fish on 5/14/16 for $136.00 (15% off – coupon code: *fluval* )*** including shipping. It arrived on 5/26/16 having traveled cross-country by slow mule (aka FedEx). It was very well packaged with the fixture box enclosed in a large brown corrugated box with bubble-wrap for cushioning.
> 
> *** As of 7/27/16 the coupon code is still good
> 
> Why did I decide on the Fluval F&P 2.0 over the other units?
> 1) 120 degree lenses
> 2) Much better warranty than other choices (3 yr verses 1 yr or 6 mo)
> 3) Warranty backed up by Fluval/Hagen with service center here in the U.S. and an 800 number.
> 4) Fully sealed unit, no moisture issues to deal with
> 5) Did not need ‘automatic’ ramp up/ramp down….all of my tanks are on digital timers
> 
> I had checked out our club (Greater Seattle Aquarium Society) Apogee MQ-200 Par Meter in anticipation of its arrival and after unpacking the unit I read the instructions (which were pretty simple) and proceeded to install it on my 30 gallon (36” long). It took me a while to understand how to use the ‘touch control’ which is has two purposes. With a quick touch it cycles the light between off/on/all LEDs (including blue)/blue LEDs only. If I ‘touch and hold’ maintaining contact with the touch sensor if the light is in the all LEDs mode or blue only LEDs mode it will gradually dim or brighten the output light intensity. It took me a while to figure out that ‘touch’ is not the same as ‘push’ and it took some time to getting used to the controls.
> 
> I tried the Fluval F&P 2.0 on several different tanks and recorded the PAR readings; this is what I found:
> 
> On my 45 Gallon (tall – 36.3" x 12.7" x 23.8" high) 20” rim to substrate
> w/dirty VersaTop [email protected]
> w/clean VersaTop [email protected]
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected]
> 
> On my 20 Gallon (24.3" x 12.5" x 16.8" high) 14” rim to substrate
> w/dirty VersaTop [email protected]
> w/clean VersaTop [email protected]
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected] @ max output
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected] @ min output
> 
> On my 30 Gallon 36.3" x 12.7" x 16.8" high) 12” rim to substrate
> w/dirty VersaTop [email protected]
> w/clean VersaTop [email protected]
> w/ no VersaTop [email protected] @ max output
> 
> What is my opinion? I like the unit. The ‘touch’ control still is a challenge from time to time. I’ve run it at maximum output for almost two (2) months and there have been no issues with LEDs or overheating. The unit is warm to the touch but certainly no hot.
> 
> What would make it better? Although I prefer 7000+K for the light spectrum on my tanks the 7500K rating on this unit seems a little ‘warmer’ to me than that. I would like the individual color controls that the other two units have.
> 
> 45 Gallon with Fluval F&P 2.0; shortly after major re-work of 'scape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Found ya! Well, Im convinced fluval beats out the competition. Now to decide on one or two fixtures.
Click to expand...

Definitely 2 for a 60 cube. 1 fluval f&p 2.0 will not cover a 24 inch cube it seems. Not trying to bash fluval or anything but Id say unless going very low light or fish only 18 inches is the widest spread this light can handle and even then the edges dont get much (leaf drop on stems). I had to add my flood in combo til I can get another fluval or decide to do something different at the price of multiple fixtures... Kessil, Echo Tech and other premium lights are of equal cost and perhaps better suited for my tanks needs. 

My tank is also an open top and skimmed. None of my plants pearled under the fluval, not even my riccia at the surface. My wifes finnex planted plus 24/7 does get her riccia and mine to pearl though. Its a nice light but doesnt have as much power or spread as my $20 dollar 6500k flood and my plants clearly showed that. After adding my flood, no more dropped leaves, growth resumed and plants began pearling again.

It grows plants directly below it alright (not the best as a solo light on tanks taller and wider than 12 inches imo) but after 6 inches of offset either side I see the effects of low light on them. Even my wisteria began throwing out oval leaves. Plants that grow tall and near the surface or floaters will also have trouble getting proper light when they arent directly under the fluval ime. I did not use a par meter to determine any of this I simply tried it and saw how my plants reacted, then tried a solution and the results spoke for themselves. If I could do it over knowing what I know now Id probably have spent my money differently.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi KrypleBerry,

That 60 gallon cube is 24" X 24" X 24".....driving decent PAR levels down to that depth with a 24" width is difficult.


----------



## Deanna

KrypleBerry said:


> my $20 dollar 6500k flood


So, you have only a 6500k LED floodlight on your tank? So simple that it's ignored. How many nominal watts is it? Do you have any algae problems with it that you don't see with the other lights? how high above the water surface is it? I may try that just to see if it outperforms my $200 worth of specialty lighting.


----------



## KrypleBerry

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi KrypleBerry,
> 
> That 60 gallon cube is 24" X 24" X 24".....driving decent PAR levels down to that depth with a 24" width is difficult.


With all this new "techy" stuff it sure is. Lol I miss my 250w hqi halide already, now those lights punch to depth. Well, except for the heat. That and an icecap ballast were the last "new" pieces of tech I got before stepping out of the hobby for a while. It was really a diy project as I had to wire everything, build a reflector, and canopy but Ive always been partial to deep tanks for my collection, though the substrate is only 18" from the light itself where the wisteria is showing light deficiency. 

Im debating whether to add another fluval, go kessil 360we tuna sun, or go with echotech marines lighting or just get more floods and call it a day. Im using GLA EI package and have a 20# co2 tank with an 80mm atomic diffuser so I would like to be able to "give her some gas" so to speak or at least get growth equal to the flood results.


----------



## KrypleBerry

Deanna said:


> KrypleBerry said:
> 
> 
> 
> my $20 dollar 6500k flood
> 
> 
> 
> So, you have only a 6500k LED floodlight on your tank? So simple that it's ignored. How many nominal watts is it? Do you have any algae problems with it that you don't see with the other lights? how high above the water surface is it? I may try that just to see if it outperforms my $200 worth of specialty lighting.
Click to expand...

Its a 6500k 50w LED flood 120° reflector, 70 pc 5730 smd. It IS waterproof I tested that out of the blue and totally not on purpose. It was hung 3 inches above my 15 gallon columns water surface and grew a nice tight carpet of monte carlo and literally everything else Ive thrown at it. With co2 and nutrients balanced that tank needed weekly trimming. Even buce and anubias had new foliage every 5 days. On this tank as the sole lighting I would probably require 2-4 of them. That still leaves me spending up to 80 dollars as apposed to spending 280 dollars on the 2 fluvals. 

Cost aside I am really more interested in whats best for my plants and their growth. As far as algae, no different than anyone using expensive lighting... mostly issues here and there with BBA and only ever a tiny bit of green spot from co2 and nutrient balance fluctuations before the pressurized system.
The photo below is 100% tje 50w 6500k led flood only. The only low light issues I had was from over crowding (overgrowth), I think I re-defined the term in that space.


----------



## KrypleBerry

Well, my fluval began malfunctioning before it finally died. Almost 3 weeks out of the box, 4 lost plant species, and a sad looking tank is all Fluval gave me for 135 dollars. I have had negative experiences with 2 other fluval products recently and this really finally just ruined fluval for me 100%. I was able to get a full refund, saltwateraq is a pleasure to work with though their refunds take up to 5 business days after they receive the package. I have been looking at the 165w SB reefbox (130-140 dollars) and a new to me flood light using 50w 6500k epistar chips with 90° lenses that claims a 100w fixture would give my 24" cube up to 110-130 par at tank bottom with shimmer and growth to rival a kessil 360we and at under 100 dollars with a 2 year warranty and money back guarantee should I not be satisfied. I also found a 150w version of the same flood using 3x 50w epistar chips. 

My 50w flood works fantastic on a 12" area, but my tank would require 4x 50w smd led floods to light evenly and it would be clutter central so I am looking at the other options. From my honest opinion from my experience I'd avoid Fluval lighting completely as there are a lot of better performing price competitive options out there. I do like finnex for shorter or low tech tanks.


----------



## GustavoMoura

Thank you!!! These stats really help, I will be sure to put in here the picture when of when I set the tank up with the light.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi GustavoMoura,

Just call me Roy!

I answered most of your questions below in the thread you started except the timer.

You have to 'program' the timer the first time setting the day, date, time, and when you want it to come on and go off; after that it is automatic. I use a 'split period' photoperiod with the light on from 9:00 am to 11:00 am and then one again at 7:00pm and off at 9:30pm. You may want one long period or a couple shorter periods, the timer is very versatile.



GustavoMoura said:


> Hello Seattle_Aquarist. I put up a thread about this lighting systems and you directed me here. This is really helpful. Thank you so much. I think I will be going with the 48'' Fluval 2.0 for my 75-gallon. Do you think just one light will be fine, I am planning on getting moderate lighting plants and for CO2 I will be using Flourish Excel. Also, regarding the timer, how does it exactly work? Do I just plug it in, set the time to turn on and that is it?
> Thank you so much!!


----------



## plurmaster

reviving this thread!!

Love all the details and info about fluval led lights.ESPECIALLY THE PAR READINGS!! I bought the Fluval 2.0 1 month ago because of this thread but I might have some problem with it.

I got a 60x45x45 29gal tank. I realize because this lights hangs low, I see the lights not hitting back of my tank for some reason. another words, not as bright. So I bought this clamps to raise this fluval led fixture to 5cm. I know the par level will drop a little but will it be too weak for the bottom of the stem plants?


----------



## KrypleBerry

Deanna said:


> KrypleBerry said:
> 
> 
> 
> my $20 dollar 6500k flood
> 
> 
> 
> So, you have only a 6500k LED floodlight on your tank? So simple that it's ignored. How many nominal watts is it? Do you have any algae problems with it that you don't see with the other lights? how high above the water surface is it? I may try that just to see if it outperforms my $200 worth of specialty lighting.
Click to expand...

My 62 dollar 100w 6,000k led flood has been working fantastic as well. 



This photo caught some glare from the window but you can see the growth.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

plurmaster said:


> reviving this thread!!
> 
> Love all the details and info about fluval led lights.ESPECIALLY THE PAR READINGS!! I bought the Fluval 2.0 1 month ago because of this thread but I might have some problem with it.
> 
> I got a 60x45x45 29gal tank. I realize because this lights hangs low, I see the lights not hitting back of my tank for some reason. another words, not as bright. So I bought this clamps to raise this fluval led fixture to 5cm. I know the par level will drop a little but will it be too weak for the bottom of the stem plants?


Hi @plurmaster,

I don't know if you caught the update to this thread I did several months ago, "75 gallon PAR (light) levels with Fluval F&P 2.0" At full output, to a depth of 19.5", through a glass Versa-Top the Fluval 2.0 provides [email protected] +/- 10% at the substrate level. The 29 gallon tank is 17.7" deep. Allowing for 2" or so of substrate then 15-1/2" deep; Add 5 cm (about 2") for the 'clamps' to raise the fixture then about 17.7" to substrate. I would suspect PAR levels for your tank are better than [email protected] +/- 10% at the substrate level and should be fine for stem plants unless stems are overcrowded, top-shaded as the stems grow, or surface floaters shade the tank. Hope this helps!


----------



## plurmaster

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @*plurmaster*,
> 
> I don't know if you caught the update to this thread I did several months ago, "75 gallon PAR (light) levels with Fluval F&P 2.0" At full output, to a depth of 19.5", through a glass Versa-Top the Fluval 2.0 provides [email protected] +/- 10% at the substrate level. The 29 gallon tank is 17.7" deep. Allowing for 2" or so of substrate then 15-1/2" deep; Add 5 cm (about 2") for the 'clamps' to raise the fixture then about 17.7" to substrate. I would suspect PAR levels for your tank are better than [email protected] +/- 10% at the substrate level and should be fine for stem plants unless stems are overcrowded, top-shaded as the stems grow, or surface floaters shade the tank. Hope this helps!



Thank u for getting back to me with the calculations!! Do you think the fixture kind of low? I was surprise the light didn't hit some of the area back of my tank but after I raise it, it helped.


Initially I went with Beamswork also because one of the thread but I got the wrong model which the lights were bit weak.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

plurmaster said:


> Thank u for getting back to me with the calculations!! Do you think the fixture kind of low? I was surprise the light didn't hit some of the area back of my tank but after I raise it, it helped.
> 
> 
> Initially I went with Beamswork also because one of the thread but I got the wrong model which the lights were bit weak.


Hi plurmaster,

If you are saying the light does not shine all the way to the top part of the back glass that is not uncommon but I have not had it cause an issue with any of my plants.


----------



## plurmaster

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi plurmaster,
> 
> If you are saying the light does not shine all the way to the top part of the back glass that is not uncommon but I have not had it cause an issue with any of my plants.



I'm just trying to eliminate anything that would cause my bottom leaves to fall off. At the same time it could possibly be Co2 issue or some other nutrient deficiency .


One plant that I'm having trouble with are Pantanal which bottom leaves all fell off and the top shrunken. Leaves also bend downwards and some of my other plants too.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

Hi @plurmaster,

Pictures of the problem plant(s) along with other plants in the tank and water parameters can be helpful in diagnosing a problem.....otherwise at best it is educated guessing.


----------



## plurmaster

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @*plurmaster*,
> 
> Pictures of the problem plant(s) along with other plants in the tank and water parameters can be helpful in diagnosing a problem.....otherwise at best it is educated guessing.




Understood, will post pictures in few hrs when the lights come on but whats the best time to test water parameters?


----------



## plurmaster

not sure if u can see the pictures but if not heres link

https://ibb.co/ig9EU7
https://ibb.co/h4xJp7
https://ibb.co/hQF4U7
https://ibb.co/ckk2hS
https://ibb.co/bWdG97
https://ibb.co/ku2yNS
https://ibb.co/dJWQ2S


See how the leaves are bend and bottom leaves are dying. Pantanal totally stunned or dying. I'm using EI dosing. 50% water change on sunday then add GH booster since I use R/O water and Aquavitro Envy as my mircoevery other day. No dosing on Saturday. This is a 60x45x45 29 gal tank.Co2 injection 2on 2 hrs before the light and 1 hr before lights out. Lights on 8hrs per day. When should I check water parameters? after water change? or on no dosing day(Saturday)


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

plurmaster said:


> not sure if u can see the pictures but if not heres link
> 
> https://ibb.co/ig9EU7
> https://ibb.co/h4xJp7
> https://ibb.co/hQF4U7
> https://ibb.co/ckk2hS
> https://ibb.co/bWdG97
> https://ibb.co/ku2yNS
> https://ibb.co/dJWQ2S
> 
> 
> See how the leaves are bend and bottom leaves are dying. Pantanal totally stunned or dying. I'm using EI dosing. 50% water change on sunday then add GH booster since I use R/O water and Aquavitro Envy as my mircoevery other day. No dosing on Saturday. This is a 60x45x45 29 gal tank.Co2 injection 2on 2 hrs before the light and 1 hr before lights out. Lights on 8hrs per day. When should I check water parameters? after water change? or on no dosing day(Saturday)


Hi @plurmaster,

Yes, it does appear that you need more magnesium (Mg) but also calcium (Ca) as well. You stated that you use RO water with Equilibrium....what is the hardness reading (dGH) of the water out of the RO unit? What is the dGH reading of the water in the tank? Current water parameter readings are fine.


----------



## plurmaster

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @*plurmaster*,
> 
> Yes, it does appear that you need more magnesium (Mg) but also calcium (Ca) as well. You stated that you use RO water with Equilibrium....what is the hardness reading (dGH) of the water out of the RO unit? What is the dGH reading of the water in the tank? Current water parameter readings are fine.




Thanks for getting back to me and giving me suggestions. i'll definitely get the readings to you later in the day!


----------



## Wantsome99

I have the Fluval plant 2.0 and 3.0 Finnex planted 24/7 Coralife aqualight led and the Current satellite plus. The Finnex is the biggest piece of junk I own and I had 3 of them. I'm now down to one. The Fluval 2.0 I beat the snot out of it and it still runs like new. The current satellite plus is a good light for low tech options and general purpose aquarium usage. I have 3 of them. 

That said I love the Fluval fresh plant 3.0. It's the best light I've owned.


----------



## plurmaster

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @*plurmaster*,
> 
> Yes, it does appear that you need more magnesium (Mg) but also calcium (Ca) as well. You stated that you use RO water with Equilibrium....what is the hardness reading (dGH) of the water out of the RO unit? What is the dGH reading of the water in the tank? Current water parameter readings are fine.


Water Parameter was tested lights off, co2 off and before I dose macro.


Co2= around 30=40 because when lights are on is already dark green and when co2 schedule to turn off it will be bright yellow.
Gh=16
KH=8
Ph=7.6
Phosphate=2.0
No3 Nitrates=40 or 80 (the api tester chart under 40 and 80 almost the same color lol)
No3 Nitrite=0
Ammonia=0


I wish I can find a Mg/Ca test kit for freshwater


----------



## awknits

I have the Fluval 3.0 on my 29 gal and I really enjoy the light. I am in my 3rd week of fishless cycle, with plants (no CO2) and I'm not really sure how bright I should have them. I'm currently using their preset "planted" program, though my sunrise is 8-12, daylight 12-4, sunset 4-8, and night. I turn it off when I go to bed and back on when I get up. One more cycle would be perfect, so hopefully they add that in the future.

I'm just curious how others are running theirs and how do I best experiment with this.

As far as algae I have diatoms (in my 3rd week of fishless cycle) and a small bit of green spot algae. That makes me wonder if I should drop back the intensity a bit.


----------



## Immortal1

plurmaster said:


> Water Parameter was tested lights off, co2 off and before I dose macro.
> 
> 
> Co2= around 30=40 because when lights are on is already dark green and when co2 schedule to turn off it will be bright yellow.
> Gh=16
> KH=8
> Ph=7.6
> Phosphate=2.0
> No3 Nitrates=40 or 80 (the api tester chart under 40 and 80 almost the same color lol)
> No3 Nitrite=0
> Ammonia=0
> 
> 
> *I wish I can find a Mg/Ca test kit for freshwater*


For what its worth, API does have a Ca test kit. The down side is it has a resolution of 20ppm which does not work well for my needs. What I did was double the sample volume from 5ml to 10ml. Instead of 10 drops of bottle 1, I add 20 drops. Now each drop of bottle #2 yields 10ppm of Ca.

Once you have determined how much Ca you have, there is a corresponding amount of GH associated with that result (1.4dGH per 10ppm Ca). 
If you test the GH level of your tank (16 dGH in your case), then subtract the amount of dGH from Ca, the remaining dGH is more or less made up of Mg.
Mg is 1.15 dGH per 5ppm. So, doing the math you can reasonable estimate the amount of Mg in your tank without directly testing for it.


----------



## Seattle_Aquarist

awknits said:


> I have the Fluval 3.0 on my 29 gal and I really enjoy the light. I am in my 3rd week of fishless cycle, with plants (no CO2) and I'm not really sure how bright I should have them. I'm currently using their preset "planted" program, though my sunrise is 8-12, daylight 12-4, sunset 4-8, and night. I turn it off when I go to bed and back on when I get up. One more cycle would be perfect, so hopefully they add that in the future.
> 
> I'm just curious how others are running theirs and how do I best experiment with this.
> 
> As far as algae I have diatoms (in my 3rd week of fishless cycle) and a small bit of green spot algae. That makes me wonder if I should drop back the intensity a bit.


Hi awknits,

Since you have plants in the tank, and you are running full intensity for just 4 hours, unless algae becomes a greater issue than just 'a small bit of spot algae' I would suggest maintaining the existing photoperiod. In my experience diatoms (brown algae) do not seem to be affected by the amount of light. Are you dosing any fertilizer as your tank goes through the nitrogen cycle?


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## awknits

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi awknits,
> 
> Since you have plants in the tank, and you are running full intensity for just 4 hours, unless algae becomes a greater issue than just 'a small bit of spot algae' I would suggest maintaining the existing photoperiod. In my experience diatoms (brown algae) do not seem to be affected by the amount of light. Are you dosing any fertilizer as your tank goes through the nitrogen cycle?


I have been using a daily squirt of Easy Green (not since the very beginning, but a good week +) and also Excel. I stopped the EG for two days when I realized my nitrates were so high. I'm don't know all the chemistry yet (test to come, right?) and I thought perhaps the EG was raising my nitrates too, but I don't know to be honest.

I did drop the lights down a bit yesterday, just lowered all the percentages about 25%, so the highest one is at 70%.


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## Seattle_Aquarist

awknits said:


> I have been using a daily squirt of Easy Green (not since the very beginning, but a good week +) and also Excel. I stopped the EG for two days when I realized my nitrates were so high. I'm don't know all the chemistry yet (test to come, right?) and I thought perhaps the EG was raising my nitrates too, but I don't know to be honest.
> 
> I did drop the lights down a bit yesterday, just lowered all the percentages about 25%, so the highest one is at 70%.


Hi awknits,

Good move stopping the EG until your nitrates drop down in the 20-40 ppm range. The biggest problem I have when cycling a new tank is early in the cycle when the ammonia starts to creep up; if I don't watch my light then I usually end up with a hair algae outbreak.


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## plurmaster

Immortal1 said:


> For what its worth, API does have a Ca test kit. The down side is it has a resolution of 20ppm which does not work well for my needs. What I did was double the sample volume from 5ml to 10ml. Instead of 10 drops of bottle 1, I add 20 drops. Now each drop of bottle #2 yields 10ppm of Ca.
> 
> Once you have determined how much Ca you have, there is a corresponding amount of GH associated with that result (1.4dGH per 10ppm Ca).
> If you test the GH level of your tank (16 dGH in your case), then subtract the amount of dGH from Ca, the remaining dGH is more or less made up of Mg.
> Mg is 1.15 dGH per 5ppm. So, doing the math you can reasonable estimate the amount of Mg in your tank without directly testing for it.




thank you so very much! will definitely go buy Ca/Mg tester using your method


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## rhiro

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi awknits,
> 
> Good move stopping the EG until your nitrates drop down in the 20-40 ppm range. The biggest problem I have when cycling a new tank is early in the cycle when the ammonia starts to creep up; if I don't watch my light then I usually end up with a hair algae outbreak.


Hi Seattle, 

Just wanted to thank you for all you share with us. I have gathered a lot of info from your posts and keep a record that I can always refer back to.

Much appreciated,

Rod


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## tonbrencat

Any info on the Fluval Aquasky 48in light use in planted tanks-good-bad-otherwise, anyone use one? or if a thread is already made on it a point in that direction would be awesome...thanks


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## StormFish

Dude!! That's awesome. I did something g similar to my 125gallon with three flood lights ... and with some cfls for viewing. The lights on my floods were way too bright but it was only on for about 4 hours for peak daylight. The cfls were on the remainder of the time. Planting on a dime!!

The tank before I got busy fixing my house 








Here is the tank before I tore it down
Please excuse my daughters yogurt go stick art


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