# ADA Aquasky Moon



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Sure.. but more in a sense that you run out of "other stuff" caused by too much light..

http://www.bio-web.dk/ole_pedersen/pdf/PlantedAquaria_2001_2_22.pdf


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

FYI my tank runs at 30-40 par (on the right) it is pretty "low" light. Other kind of style with mostly moss but still big difference.. But you would be surprised if you add co2 how plants can still grow with low light. HC can grow fine at even 30 par. 
ada 45p and 80 cm forests by Nigel H, on Flickr

I know a friend who had an aqua sky running on 60p with 36 cm height. He had algae problems and had to block out light with some electrical tape. 

I think you will be growing more algae than plants with 160-200 at the corners. You need to keep high plant mass as possible and keep the tank very clean. You mainly have carpet plants so that's not really high plant mass. I would build a dimmer on it. It will save you headache I think.


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

This light isn’t dimmable... but I heard others say make it dimmable. Am I missing something?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

NueoK said:


> This light isn’t dimmable... but I heard others say make it dimmable. Am I missing something?


most constant* VOLTAGE *arrays can be dimmed by adding a DIY dimmer... like this:









Need to size it correctly ,,and sometimes cut wires..
https://www.miniinthebox.com/pwm-di...MI8tSt6Oaz2AIVh7jACh0HVwCBEAQYAiABEgLMJ_D_BwE

Unfortunately, unless you can find the correct fittings.. cutting wires on an expensive light is your only option..
Stupid that they don't have one


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## Dragonxflare (Jul 1, 2014)

NueoK said:


> This light isn’t dimmable... but I heard others say make it dimmable. Am I missing something?


You can, I have the twinstar 600e. You just need to buy a inline dimmer switch. 

here are the 3 I know for a fact that works:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XXJW94Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GDIXYGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M7TGZ9B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I currently use the IR one, since its remote controllable.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Dragonxflare said:


> You can, I have the twinstar 600e. You just need to buy a inline dimmer switch.
> 
> here are the 3 I know for a fact that works:
> 
> ...


Thanks.. First one is only rated for 2A though..


> MAX OUTPUT: 2A Max, 24 Watts at 12V DC, 48 Watts at 24V DC


Other 2 look good..


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> most constant current arrays can be dimmed by adding a DIY dimmer... like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thank you for this information!



Dragonxflare said:


> You can, I have the twinstar 600e. You just need to buy a inline dimmer switch.
> 
> here are the 3 I know for a fact that works:
> 
> ...


Dragonxflare, do you have the power supply specs on your 600e? Im not an electrician but my power supply states 30-36v for output! Im a bit surprised these LED are pumping that high of a voltage. The this voltage the light dimmers you have shown me will simply burn out no?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

NueoK said:


> Thank you for this information!
> 
> 
> 
> Dragonxflare, do you have the power supply specs on your 600e? Im not an electrician but my power supply states 30-36v for output! Im a bit surprised these LED are pumping that high of a voltage. The this voltage the light dimmers you have shown me will simply burn out no?


Yea NOT good for that type of dimming.. Actually implies constant current drivers are used..30-36V is a giveaway..

These won't work........YET they seem too (need to get the higher voltage one)

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/led-dimmer-solution-but.35341/

THAT SAID.. not sure it's CORRECT..

THE CORRECT way would be to use a constant current dimmable driver and replace the brick altogether..


> As I understand it the Aquasky power supply is continuously regulating it's voltage output to deliver a constant 0.91A current. Using the Dim 12c dimmers means the power supply has to work harder to achieve this because in effect the load it is supplying is constantly changing because of the dimmers rapid on and off cycling....


BEST WAY would be to replace the current power supply w/ something like the meanwell LPF 40D 42
25.2-42V.. Don't worry about the 42.. it is SELF regulating as to voltage..
Correct voltage and amp range I believe. .96A..
LPF 40d 36 will boost the diode output (1.12A constant current)
http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/260/LPF-40D-spec-794605.pdf
These can be dimmed w/ a simple potentiometer or PWM or 0-10v......

It is a lot easier than it sounds...though not $3 cheap..

There are ways to add a Meanwell LDD dc/dc driver and a dimmer but would involve some faith in the orig power supply..

Think of it this way.. The orig power supply will ramp up the voltage till it senses it's set point current..then go steady state..
Using an LDD-750 dc/dc driver the orig power supply will never see .9A and go into full voltage mode (36V) delivering constant voltage to the LDD..
WAY more complicated than just switching the driver but more food for thought..
Though a lot cheaper than replacing the entire orig. power supply. Drawback is you will run the light at lower than designed current (750mA) but...
Not always a bad thing.

Bottom line: IF you want to dim these BEST to replace the orig. power supply........


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

Thanks for the great info. I plan to pick up that MW power supply. Only concern at this point, the power supply states max wattage of 40w. My light is rated for 55w. So I’m a little concerned the new driver will have to over work. Watt/Voltage= amps right? And the exsisting power supply shows 1.5a. 

Does this simply mean it will just output less power?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

To get this perfectly straight:
Power supply states:


> 30-36v 1.5A


driver won't overwork. Only thing it would do is "underpower" the diodes from its design output..
so yes it will just be weaker output.
Didn't have your exact specs..
HLG-150H-54B is 2.8A.. Way too much..
This is closer
Inventronics EUC-050S140DT(ST) 
12-36V 1.4 is closer..

You may need to hunt a bit for an "exact" driver but if you will accept a lower output the Meanwell WILL work.
There are plenty of "like" drivers out there..

OK Best fit ...HLG-80H-54B EXCEPT min voltage of 32.4.. May or may not "fit"..
"B" is dimmable..
"A" is current/voltage adjustable
SADLY.. can't have both.
Devil is in the details.. Array "should" have a V(f) of > 32.4 bUT no guarantee..

It would be BEST to check the voltage across the array while running..

There may be other drivers out there..


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

jeffkrol you are amazing! Thank you so much for the details.

This is starting to be waaaay over my head. The "B" is great, but seems like I have buy a resistor to adjust the output voltage. The "A" I can adjust within the unit, but has no dimmer. Could I just get the "A" and buy a PWM dimmer and attach that inline?

And you mean array you want me to check the power going into the LED or the input to the PCB?

Finally how about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0784SS43W/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I37XWNKRPK3TWL&colid=1NWH4XGQLV7AV&psc=1
Would a dimmer like that work? If so, will that put a stress on the stock power supply?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

If you are going to do the in line PWM dimmer there is no need for a new driver....

The new driver suggestions were to do it the "correct" way..


See the in line dimmer goes like this:
When on an "off" cycle the orig power supply will ramp up to max voltage to try to get its amps out..
Obviously it can't so will just stick at max voltage..

When the PWM dimmer goes to an "on" cycle the driver now will need to ramp down the voltage to get to the current set point..

Depending how fast that occurs will determine how long your led board will see "too many" volts..
IF fast the board will be over driven for a very short time..if slow well just the opposite.

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-B100K...&qid=1514828523&sr=1-10&keywords=100k+ohm+pot

All you need for the Meanwell HLG80 to dim from 10%-100%.......


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> If you are going to do the in line PWM dimmer there is no need for a new driver....
> 
> The new driver suggestions were to do it the "correct" way..
> 
> ...


Okay so I definitely want to do this the correct way.

So I should purchase the HLG-150H-54B and the link you sent on amazon. Anything else I need? No resistor needs to go on the output, other then the dimmer?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Right, just the new driver and the pot to manually dim it.
HLG-80H-54B........

NOTE your rock and a hard place.
54b has a min voltage of 32.4V and 1.5A
48B goes down to 28.8V BUT 1.7A
48 and 54v max so plenty of headroom.
30-36V 1.5A.. your current driver..

33v @1.5=50W


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Right, just the new driver and the pot to manually dim it.
> HLG-80H-54B........
> 
> NOTE your rock and a hard place.
> ...



Okay thanks! I will get the 54B being a constant power supply, the current fixture is trying to pump 1.5A. I rather not over drive the LEDs. But if the driver min is 32.4v am I going to get any dimming?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Dimming isn't a change in voltage (well for the most part, too hard to control small voltage changes.. see chart.. 0.3V change goes from on to most likely, burnout ).. Only either a change in current or "on" time..

You need to understand 1)how led's "start" and 2) voltage adds in series..
First..LED's won't light until an "on" voltage is reached.
W most higher power emitters that voltage is about 3V more or less 








https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/174584/is-it-ok-to-put-leds-in-parallel
When you string, say 10 together in order to get that string to light you need 30v more or less.

THE ONLY "catch" w/ the 32.4V "minimum limit" is "is it enough to get the diode string to light up?
From the looks of things it "should" be but without a voltage measurement on a working light, not guaranteed.
The doubt comes in w/ the orig driver that states 30-36V......

From the pictures I've seen it looks like the diode arrangement is 10 in a row.
5 rows..

As a guess that is 10 x3.2-ish =32v-ish (-ish is the catch).. Some small diodes are as high as 3.6V 
5 rows in parallel means each row is only powered by 300mA
1.5/5.. current divides in parallel.

Going to 1.7A only changes the row amps to 340mA...........

sorry I can't guarantee anything (not enough data especially what the voltage is in reality).

so w/ the 2 meanwells this is your choice:
go w/ slightly higher current and guarantee that the fixture lights or 
go w/ the same current but possibly not having enough voltage..

PIA isn't it..........

Example 1W diode (you do have 50 diodes/ 50W right?)


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

I think I have a lot more then 50 LED  The count is actually 100 LED And according to there specs sheet :

Aquasky Moon 601 Specifications
STAND size: W600xD136xH120mm
Power: AC100~240V 50/60Hz
Power consumption: 50W
Consumption current: 1,500mA 
Luminous flux: 4,250~4,450lm
Color temperature: Approx. 7,000K (There are some variation due to LED characteristics)
LED: 1 lamp 0.4Wx100 lamps
LED lifetime: 30,000hrs or more (depending on usage environment)

So best thing to do is measure one of the LED to see what amp and voltage its running at?

And I can measure the black leads that go into the board as well. Hope my cheap harbor freight multimeter is good enough...


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

And I think I found the next best thing, if we cant get this electrical stuff figured out...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTA00AX/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2OVB8DG3JN6N0&psc=1


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Just measure the voltage across the black leads with the light on..
current measurement not needed, dictated by the driver.

[email protected] .5 same as [email protected] 1.. Only the voltage changes..
Still 5 columns

but now 10 rows..150mA
Soo 3.2V x .150 = .48W


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

Just measured Aquasky 301/361 at the standard height these lights mount

They measure around 200-230 par 5 inches in water and 9 inches about 130 - 150 par. Edges of the tank produces a little higher par because of light reflection from the tank. 

Right under the water surface is about 300 PAR.


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## harmonf (Jun 30, 2018)

I have an Aquasky Moon 601 as well and I'm looking to dim the light. I had previously found a thread that pointed me to this device https://www.abeltronics.co.uk/products/inline-rotary-led-dimmer-pwm-12v-24v-5a-low-voltage/dim12c but I'm curious what you ended up doing and if you were successful.

Can you point me to what things you bought to make your 601 dimmable?


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