# Growing anubias quickly



## plantbrain

CO2 and ferts would be wise. 
Low light and SAE's. 

I've grown Anubias very nicely and dense without CO2, but for most, it's typically a disaster. 

Two best things: low light and SAE's. 

You can read up on what CO2/Ferts are etc.
You also need to state the lighting in detail. 
Hard to help without some information.


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## a.person61

Im honestly not sure what the lights are. They came with the tank (aquaone R180) ill look around and see if i can find what they are. There on about 10 hours aday

Bump: It says the light wattage is 6x30in 25W. Theres a red light and 2 led i have 1 led and the red on


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## theatermusic87

They grow a bit faster if you divide them up into smaller plants... But they are still a slow growing plant...

Green spot algae if an indicator of too much light, both intensity and duration. Get some floating plants and it should go away by itself with time


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## Mark Fisher

I grow mine in a low light tank, no CO2 or ferts. They are doing well, but they produce only about one new leaf per month.


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## AquaAurora

I have a nano anubias tank (6g) with petites, micro, and golden variety of anubias. Low light (13 watt 6500k cfl bulb in clamp lamp reflector about 12-13" above substrate), salvia minimia (floaters), excel every day(0.6ml) and flourish, potassium, and phosphorous every other day (0.1ml). I get diatoms occasional and just toss in a ramshorn or 2 to clean up. The betta that inhabits the tank eventually eats the snails so I don't have to worry about too much poop or a ton of babies. No bba or hair algae (floaters help prevent it!). I actually need to adjust my anubias ad the ones in the back are almost at the surface!


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## a.person61

AquaAurora you sound like you could help me out. Im not really sure of anything so woild you be able to take me though it with steps? Thanks


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## AquaAurora

My method is NOT the only nor the fastest way to grow them, its just how I've done it. You should know I'm frugal so I get cheap lighting and substrate.

bulbs: ~$9
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...iral-CFL-Light-Bulb-E-4-Pack-434399/203248911

clamp lamp:~$9
http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-CE-300PDQ/100354511

lid: diy from lexan (do not need a lid but for my fish I do) ~$15
http://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-12-in-x-24-in-x-093-in-Clear-Polycarbonate-Sheet-GE-33/202038063

Light about 12-13" above substrate, light on 7.5 hours a day. 

Floating salvia minima covers whole surface, absorbs excess nutrients and helps prevent algae issues (if you are interested I can send some, PM me for info). 

Substrate: (MUST THOROUGHLY WASH BEFORE USE) $8 (love this have it in all my tanks! at the store look for 20/40 grit or -60 grit buy at store,don't pay shipping)
http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives

Clear low poundage fishing line (no link) about $4

lead free plant weights (free with some plants) or in my case glass beads from an art store $? Alternative: tie it decor/wood/rock in tank

If your anubias roots are long enough you can skip fishing ling and weights, just stuff the roots (only the roots) in the substrate. If the roots are not long enough for this use the fishing line (alternative would be 100% acrylic thread-both will never break down, you can use regular thread if attaching to decor/wood/rock as roots will eventually cling). When tieing the rhizome think of it like your arm, don't tie too tightly and constrict it, that will hurt the rhizome. I tie mine to glass beads or stuff roots in the substrate and just leave them be.

For ferts I use Seachem: Excel (0.1ml per 1gallon daily), Pottasium Flourihs and Phosphorus (0.1 per 5g every other day) no co2 and no other supplements. Nitrates generated by 1 beta and periodic snail (put in to clean diatoms). $ varies look around. But a 2liter bottle of excel if its a large tank or sued in many tanks.

For what its worth my pH is 7.5, GH and KH 70 and 40, tds 210 range. When buying anubis iinitally tis best to buy large bunche instead fo "5 leafs per a plant" small cuttings. I find the longer the rhizome the more leaves it spits out (rhizome is where it stores its enregy adn uses that to make new leaves, if teh rhizome is very tiny and the plant ahs very few elaves it takes longer for it to save up enough energy to make a new leaf.. this is just what I've observed with my anubias, other people may speak differently about it.

Trick: you can lightly nick the rhizome with a clan sharp utility blade, razor blare, or sharp scissors to encourage new growth-new leaves and sometimes rhizomes have started from these cuts for me, don't cut too deep and don't go crazy and cover it in cuts, just a few.
*
Warning:* When buying anubias be aware there is a spreadable anubias disease called rhizome rot. Its best to quarantine any new anubias for 4 weeks before putting it in tank with existing specimens, if you buy from multiple sellers keep them separate from each other for 1 month. RHizome rot symtoms:
discolored rhizome (note some species have a red hue, on a disease plant the color on parts of the rhizome will be a dark tan to brown color)
discolored areas are soft and can be pushed/peeled off with a finger nail
lack of or loss of roots
base of stems at rhizomes can also have the discolored soft spots
leaves with this stem damage may show signs of rapid nitrate deficiency (turn yellow brown then break down)
plant will smell of garbage instead of 'wet plant'

Within a month a diseased plant will be clearly spot-able. If there are other anubias in the tank with the disease plant separately quarantine them for 1 month-do not add new anubias tank with infected or potentially infected anubias (disease is more likely to spread by close proximity but being in the same water as a sick plant puts it at risk). 
You can either get rid of disease plant, or if it has a long rhizome try to cut away the diseased areas. If you want to cut it get a clean sharp blaze/knife/scissors and bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Cut the rhizome cleanly PAST the diseased area and dip the blade/whatever in your cleaning solution between each cut to clean it (if you do dipping ratios of water to bleach or peroxide you can also dip the cut newly end of the rhizome). Inspect the newly cut areas for discoloration and softness inside the rhizome, if its still discolored inside cut off further down the rhizome. Its best to quarantine the cut plant for a month to ensure it does not still have the disease before putting back with healthy plants.

For more info and some photos of the disease you can look here:
http://anubias-engl.blogspot.com/2011/04/anubias-plants-rotting-facts-rumours.html

Heed my warning of quarantining! I've lost over $500 in anubias collections from it. If you buy everything from 1 seller at 1 time they can all go in your tank just keep an eye on them for a month. I found the disease did not linger in my tank/filtration after my disasters, though I did a few 100% water changes to get all the broken down plant matter out.


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## a.person61

So basicly get a bunch of dosing stuff and lowlight


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## Biznatch

AquaAurora said:


> My method is NOT the only nor the fastest way to grow them, its just how I've done it. You should know I'm frugal so I get cheap lighting and substrate.
> 
> bulbs: ~$9
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...iral-CFL-Light-Bulb-E-4-Pack-434399/203248911
> 
> clamp lamp:~$9
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-150-Watt-Incandescent-Clamp-Light-CE-300PDQ/100354511
> 
> lid: diy from lexan (do not need a lid but for my fish I do) ~$15
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/LEXAN-12-in-x-24-in-x-093-in-Clear-Polycarbonate-Sheet-GE-33/202038063
> 
> Light about 12-13" above substrate, light on 7.5 hours a day.
> 
> Floating salvia minima covers whole surface, absorbs excess nutrients and helps prevent algae issues (if you are interested I can send some, PM me for info).
> 
> Substrate: (MUST THOROUGHLY WASH BEFORE USE) $8 (love this have it in all my tanks! at the store look for 20/40 grit or -60 grit buy at store,don't pay shipping)
> http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives
> 
> Clear low poundage fishing line (no link) about $4
> 
> lead free plant weights (free with some plants) or in my case glass beads from an art store $? Alternative: tie it decor/wood/rock in tank
> 
> If your anubias roots are long enough you can skip fishing ling and weights, just stuff the roots (only the roots) in the substrate. If the roots are not long enough for this use the fishing line (alternative would be 100% acrylic thread-both will never break down, you can use regular thread if attaching to decor/wood/rock as roots will eventually cling). When tieing the rhizome think of it like your arm, don't tie too tightly and constrict it, that will hurt the rhizome. I tie mine to glass beads or stuff roots in the substrate and just leave them be.
> 
> For ferts I use Seachem: Excel (0.1ml per 1gallon daily), Pottasium Flourihs and Phosphorus (0.1 per 5g every other day) no co2 and no other supplements. Nitrates generated by 1 beta and periodic snail (put in to clean diatoms). $ varies look around. But a 2liter bottle of excel if its a large tank or sued in many tanks.
> 
> For what its worth my pH is 7.5, GH and KH 70 and 40, tds 210 range. When buying anubis iinitally tis best to buy large bunche instead fo "5 leafs per a plant" small cuttings. I find the longer the rhizome the more leaves it spits out (rhizome is where it stores its enregy adn uses that to make new leaves, if teh rhizome is very tiny and the plant ahs very few elaves it takes longer for it to save up enough energy to make a new leaf.. this is just what I've observed with my anubias, other people may speak differently about it.
> 
> Trick: you can lightly nick the rhizome with a clan sharp utility blade, razor blare, or sharp scissors to encourage new growth-new leaves and sometimes rhizomes have started from these cuts for me, don't cut too deep and don't go crazy and cover it in cuts, just a few.
> *
> Warning:* When buying anubias be aware there is a spreadable anubias disease called rhizome rot. Its best to quarantine any new anubias for 4 weeks before putting it in tank with existing specimens, if you buy from multiple sellers keep them separate from each other for 1 month. RHizome rot symtoms:
> discolored rhizome (note some species have a red hue, on a disease plant the color on parts of the rhizome will be a dark tan to brown color)
> discolored areas are soft and can be pushed/peeled off with a finger nail
> lack of or loss of roots
> base of stems at rhizomes can also have the discolored soft spots
> leaves with this stem damage may show signs of rapid nitrate deficiency (turn yellow brown then break down)
> plant will smell of garbage instead of 'wet plant'
> 
> Within a month a diseased plant will be clearly spot-able. If there are other anubias in the tank with the disease plant separately quarantine them for 1 month-do not add new anubias tank with infected or potentially infected anubias (disease is more likely to spread by close proximity but being in the same water as a sick plant puts it at risk).
> You can either get rid of disease plant, or if it has a long rhizome try to cut away the diseased areas. If you want to cut it get a clean sharp blaze/knife/scissors and bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Cut the rhizome cleanly PAST the diseased area and dip the blade/whatever in your cleaning solution between each cut to clean it (if you do dipping ratios of water to bleach or peroxide you can also dip the cut newly end of the rhizome). Inspect the newly cut areas for discoloration and softness inside the rhizome, if its still discolored inside cut off further down the rhizome. Its best to quarantine the cut plant for a month to ensure it does not still have the disease before putting back with healthy plants.
> 
> For more info and some photos of the disease you can look here:
> http://anubias-engl.blogspot.com/2011/04/anubias-plants-rotting-facts-rumours.html
> 
> Heed my warning of quarantining! I've lost over $500 in anubias collections from it. If you buy everything from 1 seller at 1 time they can all go in your tank just keep an eye on them for a month. I found the disease did not linger in my tank/filtration after my disasters, though I did a few 100% water changes to get all the broken down plant matter out.



Heed this advice... I just checked on my heavily planted anubias tank (favorite plant), and found quite a few have been hit. Including a large beautiful 16" mother with a 6" rhizome I'm using as the focal plant (and other like Round, golden, wrinkled etc.). I cut them all back, but fear I may lose the tank. If so this will be a couple hundred dollar loss. Why does such an awesome looking plant have to have such a devastating disease with no fix/cure


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## a.person61

Oh no! Hope it ends well!

Is there any other ferts other then flourish exel, potassium and phosphate? I read somewhere that trace micros help aswell. And would a co2 kit truly be worth it for anubias? Thank in advance


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## roadmaster

a.person61 said:


> Oh no! Hope it ends well!
> 
> Is there any other ferts other then flourish exel, potassium and phosphate? I read somewhere that trace micros help aswell. And would a co2 kit truly be worth it for anubias? Thank in advance


 Yes,you will need KNO3 (nitrogen) to complete your macronutrient's and some CSM+B or Flourish comprehensive for trace mineral's.
All plant's will benefit from CO2 but it ain't gonna speed up growth of Anubia which is slow grower even in ideal environment.
I sold/traded anubia plant's which were two year's old (5 gal bucket full) recently when I tore down my 80 gal low tech.
They all began as small plant's like you/I buy and they finally grew into a near wall of anubia's.
Got 100.00 dollars credit for the bucket full and still had enough left to move the remainder into two tank's.
Anubia Barteri,Nana petite,and another species that the name escapes me now.
The Barteri was the fastest growing of the bunch, and grew from the wood that I attached it to ,to the surface and out of 80 gal tank.
Took two year's under moderate light.
Have since went with more light,and the anubia began to suffer so I decided to get plant's that will tolerate more light.
I ,already miss the wall of anubia .:tongue:


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## a.person61

And i just dose the amount it says on the bottle? Aswell will it affect the fish in ANY way including discus
thanks


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## a.person61

And whats the best and most affordable place to get it? It would be helpful if its Australian


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## a.person61

Doing my own reserch and im lost :/


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## Remmy

Hey mate
Cant really give you advice about the anubias but if you're after affordable fertilizers i recommend you get dry ferts (powder/crystals)
check out http://www.aquagreen.com.au/catalog.html if you dont already know it, they have all the dry ferts you need as well as a nice selection of plants if you desire
Also check out www.aquariumlife.com.au its an aussie forum and local people their can point you in the right direction


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## a.person61

I'm getting mixed information from the web. Will nitogen harm my fish, all I'm getting is its nitrate


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## The Big Buddha

I have found that in my tanks, the anubias seems to grow faster in the tanks with higher nitrates. Not sure if it's a coincidence or another factor. 
Anyone had experience with that?


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## a.person61

Would this be ok? Flourish exel flourish potassium flourish phosphate and flourish? Would these be all the things i would need to add? Other then co2? And are my lights ok? I mentiond them on page one, there now on 8 hours a day and already i am starting to see less green spot


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## micheljq

Another trick to try if you want to grow and have a lot of anubias and no algae.

Grow them in a riparium, the leaves outside of water, roots in water.

I should try this out.

Michel.


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## a.person61

Could someone please tell me if the flourish I listed will be enough. Nitrate will be supplied by the fish


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## roadmaster

Yes,they will work and Nitrogen from fish load may be enough.
As plant mass increases,and nitrate test at week's end indicates level's below 10 ppm, I would consider adding some KNO3 (nitrogen).
I would look into the dry fertilizer's as other's have suggested, for the Seachem flourish line while effective,is largely water by weight, and dry fertilizer's would be cheaper,go farther.
I add the dry fertilizer's with measuring spoon's once a week, while other's prefer to mix them with water.
I just spoon em in day after water change.
With regard's to lighting, I feel I and other's have attempted to offer opinion's.
choose somebody's opinion, and go with it.
Just be stingy with the photoperiod for first few week's (several).


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## a.person61

What brand of dry ferts do you recommend? And is it better value for money


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## roadmaster

a.person61 said:


> What brand of dry ferts do you recommend? And is it better value for money


 I just now noted that you are in the land down under and I am not at all familiar with product's that may be available to you.:help:


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## a.person61

Name a few im sure theres a few floating around, im going to asia soon so i can look there aswell


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## Diana

Easy:
Post a link to whatever aquarium fertilizer company sells in Oz. 
Go to the local store and write down some names. Come back here and tell us which companies there are, hopefully with a web site address. 

Some of the info above is based on stores in the USA. Products may have different names, or be sold in different packages in your area.


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## a.person61

Only place that i can find that HAS them is aquagreen


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## a.person61

Can someone tell me what i need in terms of k2so4 ect so i know what im getting and need. And is there test kits for these things so i know if im putting enough of something in? If so whats a good brand?


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## a.person61

Bump


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## jasa73

I have a tank of mostly anubia and crypts. I decided to dose EI even though they are low light plants. Only because I didnt want to have to deal with testing my water. I dose EI, keep lights moderate to low. No algae and my anubia are growing well. Has some diatom issues at first but the tank is new and the issue is resolving itself. I think its way too much work to go buy test kits and i question the accuracy. EI takes all that work away and ensures my plants are getting what they need, no testing, minimal to no algae, great plant growth.


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## micheljq

I was dosing EI as well when i had low light tank, with 1/3 the dose.

Michel.


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## Coltonorr

In the past when I received a few _Anubias nana 'petite'_ at a club meeting,
I nicked each rhizome with a clean razor blade every inch or so. This stresses the plant a bit and causes new plantlets to start growing. 3 pieces turned into many many plants.


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