# Help with betta sorority tank



## GarrettM (Jan 22, 2011)

Well, as far as plants.
I had a female betta for three years, and she seemed to like these kinds best, I'm not exactly sure what type it is, just a sort of fluffy looking stem plant. She'd always tuck herself head first into the leaves to sleep, or just lounge in them waiting for food, haha. The plants began to decay under the incandescent light that my 5 gal came with, but once I upgraded to a mini fluorescent they flourished.
Hope this helps!
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/members/garrettm-albums-fish-tanks-past-picture6155-shelbys-old-home-made-gravel-driftwood.jpg[/IMG]


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## amcoffeegirl (May 26, 2009)

I think 4 is a good number. i would say add them all at once and keep a close eye out for too much bullying. some battles will happen but it should settle down after a few days. if you had a 20l you could pry add 6 girls. Java ferns are easy plants. and i like bolbitis(sp?) and vals, cryptocorne. none of those need co2 to thrive. add pics when you get it set up.


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

Yeah, it will most likely be these four....but I did leave one behind that I may have to go back for...she was the one that caught my eye first, but it looked like she had a bit of fin rot or velvet starting. Still, if she looks "fixable" next time I go in I'll try to help her out. If that did happen,(after a thorough quarantine of course) how much would it upset the pecking order? would it be better to add her and one more to spread the "new fish" tension around? 

I did think about java ferns and possibly swords, they have a few scrawny looking ones at the LFS. Thanks for the other suggestions and the co2 info. I don't have the funds to try a full blown co2 system yet. xD

will def post updates as this gets going.:biggrin:


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## orchidman (Dec 15, 2010)

here is the picture that garret tried to attach ( i think )


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

Also, two of them have a dark grey lining around their tail and fins. Is this an early fin rot perhaps? Nothing looks like it's rotting off right now, but it doesn't really look like their coloring, I'm not sure...

I'd like to hit it early if it is, but I'm not sure how to go about this while they're still in cups..


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

Ah yes, thank you...bob. =)

Yeah I think I have some of that growing in my goldfish pond. I'll wash some off and see how they like it ^.^


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## wpgtank (Mar 12, 2010)

I had good luck with anubias nana in a low light 5 gallon set up. The male betta I had liked to lurk under their leaves. I also used moss balls to soak up nutrients that may have gone to algae with little competition from the slow growing nana.


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## GarrettM (Jan 22, 2011)

> here is the picture that garret tried to attach ( i think )


Yep, Thanks Bob


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I'd go with no less than 6. "Overcrowding" them tends to help diffuse aggression. Though personally I've never had a sorority tank work long term.

Make sure there's absolutely no gaps in your tank cover- it's extremely common for bullied fish to try and jump away from their chaser.

Lots of plants definitely should help. Lots of driftwood/caves, too.

With just a standard 18 watt T8 flourescent bulb you should be fine keeping Anubias, Java ferns, Crypts, chain swords, Marselia minuta carpet, dwarf sag, mosses... hardy low light plants.


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## CAPisces (Sep 24, 2010)

I also have a 10 gallon sorority tank. Mine currently holds five ladies, some Ghost shrimp, and a giant black Mystery snail. I have three Anubis nanas, three different types of Swords, three or four Crypts of various species, a moss ball (they love that thing!), and a mystery plant I got from a friend. 
When I first put them in the tank, I had one try and make an escape. She started at one end of the tank and made a bee line for the other at top speed. She jumped but caught the edge of the tank. Moral of the story is to make sure that there is a good cover on the tank. My cat almost got a snack.
They had a few mini fights in the beginning while they were establishing a pecking order and their own territories. 
Be prepared with another tank if one of the females ends up being too aggressive. I had to pull the sixth female out and put her into her own tank. 
If you add another fish after the pecking order is set up you should completely rearrange the tank so that nothing looks the same. This destroys the established territories. Then add the new fist first, so she can get familiar with the tank. Next, add your LEAST dominate fish first, wait 10 or so minutes, add the next dominate, wait, then continue to add them until you add the MOST aggressive fish last. Then wait and see. The new fish should settle in okay assuming she is not an older fish. Older females tend to be much more aggressive than younger ones as it has been a while since she has shared a tank with other females. If I were you, I would add that fifth fish. I have found that odd numbers tend to work out better than even, but that is just my opinion.
When I get my fish from the LFS, the first thing I do is add a concentrated dose of formalin and malachite green (ick treatment) to their individual tubs and wait 10 minutes. Then I slowly drip in the tank water to dilute it out. This has seemed to cut down on any problems from the get go. I then add a fungus treatment to the tank and treated them for at least 5 days with that. I haven’t had any problems and the last fish I got were rescued from Wal-Mart….if you get my meaning…
Good luck with your tank. I love mine and can’t wait to add more plants and some CO2.
-Mary


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## amcoffeegirl (May 26, 2009)

You should only buy healthy looking fish. do not buy a fish you have to fix. Dont buy a fish with fin rot. repeat after me.... i will only buy healthy looking fish. 3times.


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## Betta Maniac (Dec 3, 2010)

sejoy said:


> Hello! =)
> what are the best plants for a planted Betta biotope?


There's a discussion about this topic here:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/plants/124377-suggestions-betta-biotope.html

Welcome to the Betta Club!!!


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

Thanks for all the suggestions!

So the general concensus is that I should add one or two more to spread out the aggression more? I know of at least three at the lfs that are similar in size that might be good canidates. 

As far as the ones with suspicious dark edged fins, I'd like to do a treatment of maracyn 2 or melafix. Though I've heard some say bettas can be more sensitive to these treatments than other fish. To those who've used these before with bettas or other labyrinth fish, what's the best way to go about treatment? Could I treat all of them as a preventative measure, or would that do more harm than good? I don't have a lot of experience with meds, all my other fish either came from reputable breeders, or lived amazingly disease free. The only thing I've dealt with was a bout of ick, but it didn't cause too much trouble. 

I know that you shouldn't bring home unhealthy fish. But I have the time and money to try to heal something that is ill, and when that thing happens to be an otherwise beautiful fish, I think that trying and possibly failing to heal it is much better than watching it suffer in the corner of a store that won't give it that second chance.


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## wendyjo (Feb 20, 2009)

I've always had best luck using jungle fungus clear with bettas.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I wouldn't treat at all unless you're sure something is wrong and have at least a reasonable guess at a diagnosis.

If you are sure fin rot is the issue, Bettas usually respond really well to salt treatment. 1 tablespoon per gallon of non-iodized salt. Keep the temperature warm- low to mid 80s F.

I would not use melafix with anabantoids- it can damage their labyrinth organs.


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

CAPisces said:


> When I get my fish from the LFS, the first thing I do is add a concentrated dose of formalin and malachite green (ick treatment) to their individual tubs and wait 10 minutes. Then I slowly drip in the tank water to dilute it out. This has seemed to cut down on any problems from the get go. I then add a fungus treatment to the tank and treated them for at least 5 days with that.


How much did you add to the individual tubs?



CAPisces said:


> I haven’t had any problems and the last fish I got were rescued from Wal-Mart….if you get my meaning…


I understand =) I "rescued" a male a few months ago. He and one other fish were the only ones that weren't too far gone to save. I didn't have room for the other, but if I go back, I'll look for him. I really hope he's okay, they were both very beautiful, and had unusual colorings...
I'm pleased to say he's now doing well, aside from a bit of fin-biting. But that's much better considering what could have been. :angel:


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## CAPisces (Sep 24, 2010)

I also recommend Jungle Products. I have yet to have a single problem with their Fungus Cure. 
I haven't heard anothing bad with Maracyn 1 or 2. 
I use tetracycline and erythromycin if it looks bacterial. I have also tried triple sulfa, but didn't seem to see a difference in the fish's health. But be warned, the more you use antibiotics the less effective they will become due to resistance on the bacteria's end. 
Also, if you use antibiotics it's normal for them to produce a foam where ever there is water agitation. It doesn't harm anything so long as you skim it off.

I totally agree with LauraLee, salt and clean water are SERIOUS medicines! I always add aquarium salt to my tanks after my weekly water changes.

Sejoy, I add about 5 drops of the formalin/malachite green to the tub. It's strong but since you aren't just leaving them in there for a long period of time it doesn't seem to do any harm.

I ended up getting a male Petsmart and have had an uphill battle with fin rot. The six females I saved from Wal-Mart all are completely healthy. Weird but true.


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

Again, thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I will be evicting the goldfish either today or tomorrow, they need to get back into their pond not that's its warm enough, three full size goldfish in a ten gallon...let's just say the walls are getting a little damp with all that splashing. You'd think I was keeping baby whales!

...(as I type this one make a leap at knocking the lid off. He's over 6 in., and FAT xD)

I came across a stroke of good luck. A friend of mine needs to get rid of a 40g long, since her bearded dragon died. She's not going to try again, and the tank is way to big to just sit around. She'll sell it to me for 20$ since it's like new. I'd like to ask for the basking lamp she had as well. Would this be an okay thing to have lighting the tank? I can hang it to soften some of the light, but I thought it might help with water temp as I don't have a heater yet. (stays about 78-9 in the house)
I'm not worried about having too much light on the plants since I wanted a floating layer of duckweed, salvinia, or frogbit anyway. That should give them some cover. Has anyone tried a basking lamp in an aquarium setup? I'm not sure of the wattage and such yet. 

Also, with more room, is there a need to add more bettas? In ten gallons they'd be pretty busy with 5, but I'm wondering if in something larger it would be easier to isolate and pick on one another.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

No I would not use the basking lamp instead of a heater, it would just cause temperature fluctuations, which are bad for fish.

Why don't you use the 40 breeder to finish wintering the goldfish? Then you wouldn't need a heater for that tank.

You'll definitely need a heater for it if you put the bettas in there. 100-200 watts.


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## sejoy (Jan 18, 2011)

Okay, I guess I hadn't thought about the part where the lamp needs to be off. ooops xD

The goldfish are pretty much done, I kept them inside more for treating a bacterial infection than the cold, I only bring them inside when it's below 45 F. Which isn't very often in south Florida. I've recently invested in large plastic tubs to serve as hospital/indoor extra tanks. it feels like such a waste to use a nice glass tank just for them to sit in bare bottom. 

I think I'm really starting to like the idea of a 40g sorority. Hopefully the girls will be okay with some small tetras. 
This will keep me from buying a baby dinosaur bichir, or turning it into a complex salamander paludarium, or a large co2 needing planted tank. None of these are good options when going to college in 1-2 years and leaving the pets in my parents care.


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## Theaquaguy89 (Feb 28, 2019)

Hey how are you doing ? Hope you are well!! I have been reading everything I could find on this topic ! I recently started my own sorority in a 20 gallon with 4 female betta !! Its going better than I could have asked it to. I have a mix of fake and real plants in my betta tank. If you are going to use real plants I'd pick easily kept ones just for the fact they will need less attention than your fish . If you do use live plants then I'd get a full spectrum light . This acts as the sun basically for plants. Keep in mind if you go with a brackish/tannins in the water this will effect the light penetrating the plants at the substrate level. Put as many hiding spots , plants , rocks ect.. as possible for an escape route and hiding places from a bully. I'd keep the cups close to each other for a couple days . Do Pwc's on cups as needed. Acclimate and release all the fish at the same time. If you dont the first betta in will become territorial and continue to chase and fight all other fish added. Not saying you can't but it's not recommended! After you release them all at once . Keep a close eye on them for the next 3-4 hours you will see some flaring charging and slapping but this is normal !! And the chasing will persist indefinitely just the manner in the chasing will change . If 4 hours or so go by and it hasn't calmed down any then remove the bully for 10 to 15 min and try to replace her . This will make her think she's got to watch out because she's in another fishes territory and in return should calm down. If it is still aggressive fighting take her out . Betta might not eat as might during this stage but that's understandable. Make sure when you feed all you betta eat a week one might not get a chance to eat and die out ... we dont want that. In the case of the 10 gallon it might be to small betta will establish dominance and defend their territory in the tank 4 Betts in a heavily planted tank might not be the best I'd stay in the 20 gallon and up range just for the extra space to swim and not constantly be in the face of another fish . Betta look like they do now because of selective breeding but only the most aggressive fish would have been breed. So keep in mind they are fighting fish . The bigger the tank the better for this... a small tank with 4 betta in it is asking for trouble ! Not saying you can't do it because it can be done!! Just want this to work for you and a bigger tank would resolve allllooottt of problems you might run into with a sorority!! Hope this helps !! might not make any sense but I can answer any questions you might have . Good luck and good fish keeping !!


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