# Looking for light recommendations, want more color.



## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

As the title says, I'm looking for recommendations for upgrading my lighting. Attached below is a picture of my 40B and as you can see it's doing pretty well IMO. I'm currently running 2 Beamswork fixtures and they've done their job well but I want to bring the reds out of my stem plants. So, what do you all think?

Thanks

Edit: sorry for the poor picture, iPads have horrible cameras


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## MCSLABS (Apr 19, 2016)

Only choice is to either add a red spectrum light or filter down what you have (remove other colors) with a filter of specific nm

Here is a website for thought:

LEE Technical Lighting Filters - Daylight, Tungsten and Fluorescent Conversion


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Yes I know, but what fixtures would be viable options to obtain what I'm looking for? The 2 that come to mind are the planted plus and the new fluval.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Nlewis said:


> Yes I know, but what fixtures would be viable options to obtain what I'm looking for? The 2 that come to mind are the planted plus and the new fluval.


Both "work" but simplier and cheaper would be a Finnex stingray..

A fairly simple DIY if you have the 3W type is to change out some of the LEDs to warm white..

MOD - Rework on a Beamswork LED from 10K to 6.5K

Handful of warm white "Bridgelux" diode is a few bucks...

There is the Beamswork "pink" led
Amazon.com : Beamswork ER 90 36" LED Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant Pink Roseate 3ft 117x 0.20W : Pet Supplies

They pop up on amazon and the "worlds marketplace"..

Basically a RGB 5050smd w/ green practically off..and a red/blue adjusted ratio..

Oh, or the 24/7 clone:
291688154423
Of course you would probably just use an external timer and adj the color to suit..
36" is $70 See Vivagrow


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## TracyLee (Apr 27, 2016)

Really nice tank! I've had my 40-gallon tank up and running for about 20 days and I already want to do another one. My previous tank was a full blown 55-gallon reef tank that I just loved. Lights are an ever-evolving question, to say the least....lol, I can't wait to figure out how to post pictures!


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

A stingray has decent color rendition but isnt enough to make reds pop. My guess is you'd barely notice one between those two 6500Ks


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Both "work" but simplier and cheaper would be a Finnex stingray..
> 
> A fairly simple DIY if you have the 3W type is to change out some of the LEDs to warm white..
> 
> ...


Don't really have room to add another fixture on top of the 2 that are there already. The rear fixture is a .5w pent fixture that is fairly wide and takes up a lot of room unlike the front fixture which is the 54x1w 6500k.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Nlewis said:


> Don't really have room to add another fixture on top of the 2 that are there already. The rear fixture is a .5w pent fixture that is fairly wide and takes up a lot of room unlike the front fixture which is the 54x1w 6500k.


Then just add these to the pent.. 

16.4Ft 300Leds SMD 5630 Waterproof Red LED Light Strip DC12V

Or 5630's in warm white..5620's are .5w diodes..
This is w/ 5050 rgb leds








http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/627826-beamswork-double-hi-lumen-30-gen4-3.html


burr740 said:


> A stingray has decent color rendition but isnt enough to make reds pop. My guess is you'd barely notice one between those two 6500Ks


Yea possibly.. Though w/ the low red in the 6500k's it would still add some "pop".. but there are space issues..


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Both "work" but simplier and cheaper would be a Finnex stingray..
> 
> A fairly simple DIY if you have the 3W type is to change out some of the LEDs to warm white..
> 
> ...





jeffkrol said:


> Then just add these to the pent..
> 
> 16.4Ft 300Leds SMD 5630 Waterproof Red LED Light Strip DC12V
> 
> ...


Well this is an option I will look into. Which one do you this will work better, warm white or red?

I may end up getting a whole new more powerful fixture so I can raise the light and get it off the tank. Do you happen to have the par data for the .5w pent fixture? I believe it's the double high lumen I have.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

I don't believe anyone has measured it or it is a "one of" measurement somewhere. Problem w/ the .5w is raising it will cut PAR down considerably at depth.

As to the recommendation of ww or red..WW is the safer choice overall. adds PAR in a larger spread of wavelengths and isn't so extreme. But if you like red.... 
W/ a controller like the TC-420 you can control all 3 lights but would need a small modification to the output since some of these are 12v constant voltage some 15V..


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> I don't believe anyone has measured it or it is a "one of" measurement somewhere. Problem w/ the .5w is raising it will cut PAR down considerably at depth.


This is what makes me want to just get another light all together. The pent fixture is bright but doesn't seem all that powerful, if that makes sense. That fixture sits directly on top of my tank, meanwhile the 1w I have to raise about 6 inches or so. 

Now correct me if I'm wrong here but wouldn't a more powerful(higher par) fixture makes my stems turn a reddish color? Generally isn't the plant turning red a way for the plant to try and block some of the light because it's more than it needs?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Nlewis said:


> This is what makes me want to just get another light all together. The pent fixture is bright but doesn't seem all that powerful, if that makes sense. That fixture sits directly on top of my tank, meanwhile the 1w I have to raise about 6 inches or so.






Nlewis said:


> Now correct me if I'm wrong here but wouldn't a more powerful(higher par) fixture makes my stems turn a reddish color? Generally isn't the plant turning red a way for the plant to try and block some of the light because it's more than it needs?


Generally but it is a bit more complicated..You can also make them redder w/ Nitrogen starvation.. i.e less chlorophyll can be made..

To be honest I let other chase red..not my primary objective..


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Nlewis said:


> As the title says, I'm looking for recommendations for upgrading my lighting. Attached below is a picture of my 40B and as you can see it's doing pretty well IMO. I'm currently running 2 Beamswork fixtures and they've done their job well but I want to bring the reds out of my stem plants. So, what do you all think?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Edit: sorry for the poor picture, iPads have horrible cameras


Hi Nlewis,

The picture is fine. What are you trying to accomplish by adding more 'reds'? If you just like red plants that is great, however if you are trying to accomplish adding a bit more drama or impact to your scape adding more read plants may not accomplish that.

What I noticed first about your 'scape' is almost all the stem plants look very similar with shorter, narrow leaves, mostly green one but a red plant here or there. Have you thought about using plants with different leaf shapes, sizes, and/or textures? You might find it will strongly improve the impact of your 'scape.

For a 'roundish' leaf for example I like lily types like:

Nymphoides hydrophylla 'Taiwan' (also great lime green leaves)









or Nymphaea micrantha









Varied leaf sizes, colors, and textures can improve the visual interest of a 'scape


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi Nlewis,
> 
> The picture is fine. What are you trying to accomplish by adding more 'reds'? If you just like red plants that is great, however if you are trying to accomplish adding a bit more drama or impact to your scape adding more read plants may not accomplish that.
> 
> ...


I just want to bring out more reds from my plants. For example the ludwigia red is starting to turn green in color and the royals colorata isn't so colorata. I'm leaning twowards the rear light fixture not being powerful enough and want something with a higher par value.


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Both "work" but simplier and cheaper would be a Finnex stingray..
> 
> A fairly simple DIY if you have the 3W type is to change out some of the LEDs to warm white..
> 
> ...


I'm seriously contemplating purchasing another fixture like I have on the front which is a 42x1w and doing this. If I were to do this how many warm white LEDs do you think I should install? Would it be worth my time to get some 660nm reds as well?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Nlewis said:


> I'm seriously contemplating purchasing another fixture like I have on the front which is a 42x1w and doing this. If I were to do this how many warm white LEDs do you think I should install? Would it be worth my time to get some 660nm reds as well?


2:1 to 3:1 cw:ww is probably a good starting point..
so 14 ww added would lower your K to a bout 5500 (assuming 3500k emitters)

Reds have a different V(f) so it is not likely this will work. You would "overdrive" them w/ the current resistors on the board


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> 2:1 to 3:1 cw:ww is probably a good starting point..
> so 14 ww added would lower your K to a bout 5500 (assuming 3500k emitters)
> 
> Reds have a different V(f) so it is not likely this will work. You would "overdrive" them w/ the current resistors on the board


Looks as if the Beamswork 2600 is no longer available. The only one I can find is the 10,00K reef version which would mean replacing all the LEDs. I know 10K will work but I'm not a fan of the color rendition as I feel is really washes out the colors of the plants. So with that I think I'm going to look into a whole new fixture all together. I want to get something similar to the 2600 as far as the par values are concerned but in a warmer tone I guess. The new Fluval looks okay and has a great warranty but it says it's spectrum is 7500K which is roughly what I have now.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

10k or 6.5k actually "fairly" close.
Replacing 1/3rd w 3500k would average about 7800k.
A 7800K average w/ more red.. Usually..
There are infinite combinations of spectrum that equal 7800k.
no, not ideal..

36" 3W are still around.. Just hack in a dimmer if needed...
36" used 3W
$58
291289250020


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## niko (Mar 8, 2006)

Truth is that when you mix LED with T5HO you get the most amazing looking light ever. But everyone wants LED to do it all.

Try and see for yourself. Yes, use a 5000K T5HO. Or better yet - a Giesemann AquaFlora T5HO bulb. You will be pretty much shocked.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

niko said:


> Truth is that when you mix LED with T5HO you get the most amazing looking light ever. But everyone wants LED to do it all.
> 
> Try and see for yourself. Yes, use a 5000K T5HO. Or better yet - a Giesemann AquaFlora T5HO bulb. You will be pretty much shocked.



Or find "Pink" Beamswork..


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## angelcraze (Aug 20, 2013)

Honestly, I had the Beamswork 'pink' LED along with a 10k fixture and later a 1w Beamswork 65k fixture. The color rendition in my mind was amazing, and I prefer a warm tone. A Beamswork 'pink' or RBG fixture really accentuates the reds in plants. I have the pink fixture above my 120g now, along with a 1w accent LED fixture, and although there's not really enough light to make the red plants very red, the pink LED really makes them look pink and grows the plants just fine at a total of 68 watts!


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## niko (Mar 8, 2006)

jeffkrol said:


> Or find "Pink" Beamswork..


It won't compare. Guaranteed. Think of sunlight entering your tank. That is how a mixture of LEDs and an Aquaflora looks like. Like nothing else.

Unless of course Beamswhatever has invented an amazing new super panda LED that is completely different from the rest. That's possible, and I believe it...

Here I am discussing lights. As if that's what brought me to this hobby. Why not actual aquascaping?...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

niko said:


> It won't compare. Guaranteed. Think of sunlight entering your tank. That is how a mixture of LEDs and an Aquaflora looks like. Like nothing else.


I can envision what you are referring to, but tubes can be emulated..or bettered.. 
see next quote:












niko said:


> Unless of course Beamswhatever has invented an amazing new super panda LED that is completely different from the rest. That's possible, and I believe it...
> 
> ..


Beamswork didn't but Yuji did.. 

















High CRI LED Lighting | Yuji LED

Still, only .5w emitters in "the best" spectrums..


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> I can envision what you are referring to, but tubes can be emulated..or bettered..
> see next quote:
> 
> 
> ...


Would be nice if they made aquarium fixtures.


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

So I went to the LFS today and picked up a Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0. I can say the color rendition is significantly better than the Beamswork. Now I have to decide whether to keep it on top of the tank or raise it to match the front fixture which is about 5" above the tank. If I leave it on top the tank that puts me somewhere around 130 par to the substrate(substrate in the back is only 10" from the top) according to Fluvals par measurements.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Nlewis said:


> So I went to the LFS today and picked up a Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0. I can say the color rendition is significantly better than the Beamswork. Now I have to decide whether to keep it on top of the tank or raise it to match the front fixture which is about 5" above the tank. If I leave it on top the tank that puts me somewhere around 130 par to the substrate(substrate in the back is only 10" from the top) according to Fluvals par measurements.


Hi Nlewis,

lol, my Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0 arrived yesterday! 

I have already got it on the tank and am using our club's PAR meter to take readings which are very good. I will try and do a write-up and post the the Lighting forum later this weekend. 

I can assure you that you will have more than [email protected] 10" below the light; possibly without even running the Beamworks (I measured at 12") The spectrum color of the Fluval 2.0 is supposed to by 7500K, all I can say is it definitely has a more 'pinkish' color than my 6400 LED and the "reds" and the "blues" in the Cardinal Tetras don't look washed out. but 'pop' nicely.


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi Nlewis,
> 
> lol, my Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0 arrived yesterday!
> 
> ...


Please keep me up to date on your readings.

Edit: I've already noticed a big difference in color and my stems were pearling within the hour of the light coming on. Before my stems wouldn't pearl until about six hours into the lights being on.


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## JL15219 (Nov 10, 2008)

*Nlewis* did you remove both beamswork and just kept the Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0?


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

JL15219 said:


> *Nlewis* did you remove both beamswork and just kept the Fluval Fresh and Plant 2.0?


Nope, the 1w Beamswork is still up front. I don't feel like one of the Fluval's is enough for an 18" deep tank, the light intensity seems to reduce drastically as I raise it. In not sure if anyone has done par measurements for it yet and I can only go buy what I saw stated on websites for its par ratings. As it sits on top of the tank, it's bright and I've noticed a huge difference in growth of all my stem plants since I've had it. As you can see, I got the color I was looking for. All those plants were super green before I switched lights.


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## JL15219 (Nov 10, 2008)

Nlewis said:


> Nope, the 1w Beamswork is still up front. I don't feel like one of the Fluval's is enough for an 18" deep tank, the light intensity seems to reduce drastically as I raise it. In not sure if anyone has done par measurements for it yet and I can only go buy what I saw stated on websites for its par ratings. As it sits on top of the tank, it's bright and I've noticed a huge difference in growth of all my stem plants since I've had it. As you can see, I got the color I was looking for. All those plants were super green before I switched lights.


oh okay.....also trying to make my plants red but on a 24 inch deep 125 gallon tank.


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