# RODI Filter Recommendations and Source Water Suggestions



## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hi guys!

I'm a noob to "real" planted tanks, but not necessarily aquariums in general. I hope this post is in the right section because really my question is, what do most of you guys use for water in your freshwater planted tanks? Are you using RODI water that has been remineralized, and if so, with what? Or, are you using a ratio of RODI to tap water? Something else?

I posted here specifically because I am also planning on starting another reef tank, which I've had in the past, and for that I will absolutely be getting an RODI filter. With that in mind, would using RODI water in some way on freshwater planted be the best way to go for me? Could some of you maybe recommend a good deal on an RODI filter? I'd be looking for 4 stage with DI (or more!), and 25 to 50 gpd is more than enough for me. Any ideas? The ones from Bulk Reef Supply seem like they might be a good deal.

I will add that I have municipal water, with chlorine, but, as best as I can tell, no chloramines. We have hard water (no TDS reading right now, just judging by the white stuff in the shower!), and we do have a high pH of about 8.2 or 8.3 (yes, I have Cichlids!). I'd really like to bring it down to basically zero TDS, and then remineralize it for my freshwater planted tank. I hope to do low to mid-light plants at least, and if I can figure out what I really need to do it, I would even do CO2 on my tank. I'm a noob, but trying to learn, and want to do a nice looking tank for sure with this one. My plan definitely includes a canister filter, likely an inline heater, and at some point having glass filter intake/output tubes seems pretty cool to me. I'm looking at a 26 or 28 gallon (I forget which!) bowfront tank to start, but I have ALL KINDS of tanks in storage for the future, if this planted tank is a success. I'll add for no good reason, that strictly speaking I don't like bowfront tanks, I think they distort the look of the inhabitants, but this tank is in pristine condition, and I think it would look nice. 

Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance for your help!

-Detritus


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## chanathon (Sep 1, 2017)

If you can wait, bulkreefsupply usually has pretty good deals on blackfriday


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chanathon said:


> If you can wait, bulkreefsupply usually has pretty good deals on blackfriday


Thank you very much for the suggestion! Actually, I am in no hurry, and wondered if they do anything for Black Friday deals. I even asked that question in a thread on another forum, and never really heard. Do you know what other items they tend to put on sale for Black Friday? And would you suggest one of their filters as a good value for an RODI filter?

Thanks for your help!

-D


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Personally I would look on Amazon. An RO unit is an RO unit, makes no difference if it's sold by a reef or aquarium store. In general cheaper, more reviews to read, and extra filters, etc. all readily available. 

And as long as you are making it, you could use the RO for your planted tank as well. Nice to be able to control the GH/KH to your liking. And it's nice for drinking water and ice maker too. 

Quite a few have set them up here, and each one is a little different. I have more info on mine in my journal, but there are lots of ways to go about it. Just take some time to understand the systems, and plan for everything you will need. The actual installation really isn't difficult at all.


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## aubie98 (Apr 22, 2017)

I've been using this RO unit for almost 2 months now and love it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GJCE2X4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clownplanted also uses this unit and gives it a good review.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hey, aubie98!

I love Amazon, and had looked there, but I didn't see that particular filter. That's just the kind of tip I was hoping for, so thanks! I will definitely give that a good look over. I do know an RO filter does not have to have pretty pictures of aquariums on the box for it to be effective, generic is fine.

So are you guys using primarily RODI Water in your tanks? If so, what are you doing for remineralization?

Thanks for your help!

-Detritus


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

So these purewaterclub.com RODI filters look like they might be just what I was looking for; inexpensive, well regarded by reviewers, and portable, which means I can bring it to work too. Thank you again, aubie98, for pointing that filter out, I'm glad I asked here on the forum before spending $170 or so a unit. I'm definitely not in any hurry, so if there are any other suggestions, I'd welcome them very much.

Thanks to everyone for your help!

-Detritus


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## natemcnutty (May 26, 2016)

Water source and volume should determine what system you go with. Lower TDS and less than a thousand gallons a year, and the simpler ones like RO Buddy and purewaterclub are great. Go much beyond that, and the replacement part costs can get quite high.

In the mid-range, the bulk reef supply stuff is excellent and will be less expensive in the long run if you turn out high volume or have high TDS. Beyond that, I've seen nothing but praise for the spectrapure systems. That's what many of the high end shrimp breeders use. 

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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hi! And thank you for your help! I agree, and I think my source water isn't very good, but I don't think it's very bad to horrible. I am planning smaller tanks, and certainly I'm not the world's most advanced aquarium keeper, so I think on of these budget models will be just fine.

You mentioned Spectrapure, is that a brand I should look at too?

Thanks very much, this is just the kind of info I was hoping for!

-D


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hey guys!

So I actually found the Aquatic Life RO Buddy last night, and I think I'm considering it over the Pure Water Club mentioned by aubie98 because (and correct me if I'm wrong) the RO membrane is easier to replace, and because it comes with color changing DI media. The user reviews seem to be pretty close to that of the Pure Water Club. Any thoughts or suggestions? Again, I am in no real hurry, I'm mostly just talking and planning here, but I appreciate everyone's help!

https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00204CQF6/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1508114385&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=portable%2Brodi&th=1

Thanks again!

-Detritus


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## natemcnutty (May 26, 2016)

Detritus said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> So I actually found the Aquatic Life RO Buddy last night, and I think I'm considering it over the Pure Water Club mentioned by aubie98 because (and correct me if I'm wrong) the RO membrane is easier to replace, and because it comes with color changing DI media. The user reviews seem to be pretty close to that of the Pure Water Club. Any thoughts or suggestions? Again, I am in no real hurry, I'm mostly just talking and planning here, but I appreciate everyone's help!
> 
> ...


I think both are great, but I'm pretty sure the pwc one is more flexible. I have an RO buddy and like it, but I don't think I can use cartridges from others like you can with the pwc one. @clownplanted knows way more about the pwc one. 

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## Tnalp (Mar 25, 2017)

Ro buddy with 4 stages(DI). Love this thing. So cheap and user friendly 











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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

The purewater club one is great and what I use for my shrimp tanks. The membranes are super easy to change out. I have been using mine for months and it still great. You can get the DI membrane replacement for pretty cheap and like I said is really easy to put on. Let me know if you need more details on the pwc.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Great post to come across when you are also looking for a RO/DI setup. I kept seeing BRS and SpectraPure as the two top brands to go with for RO systems. 

I was thinking if I'm going to setup RO for the tank and for drinking water I may go with whole house Rusco Spin Down filter as a prefilter to other filters that I was debating should I go down to 1 or 0.5 micron in size overall, but only implementation of filters may really let me know if going that small for the whole house is worth it or not. Don't want to have to change filters every month or more due to too small of a micron size for the whole house. But would be using the big glue housings, so 4.5x20" housings.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Geez you guys are making it sound too easy. Maybe I over thought mine a bit!:grin2:


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## Tnalp (Mar 25, 2017)

Holy moly... yea that’s too much haha 


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Greggz said:


> Geez you guys are making it sound too easy. Maybe I over thought mine a bit!:grin2:


Not in my mind! I just haven't planned out my idea yet, but I'm sure I'll have something like what you have going on. Maybe not the ph or thermometer, but all the other things will be a yes LOL.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

chayos00 said:


> Not in my mind! I just haven't planned out my idea yet, but I'm sure I'll have something like what you have going on. Maybe not the ph or thermometer, but all the other things will be a yes LOL.


The pH meter and thermometers are to monitor the water being held in these two 55 gallon drums......plus heaters, circulation pumps, air pump, and plumbed to pump up in through the wall. Yeah, it was some work, but the satisfaction of how it works was worth it.


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## livingf1t (Dec 7, 2016)

Greggz said:


> The pH meter and thermometers are to monitor the water being held in these two 55 gallon drums......plus heaters, circulation pumps, air pump, and plumbed to pump up in through the wall. Yeah, it was some work, but the satisfaction of how it works was worth it.




Hey Greggz, how did those uniseals work on those barrels? I just did mine and was wondering how they hold in the long run? 










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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

I use a SpectraPure. There is a difference in quality as you move up in price. It's in the rejection rates and the membranes, plus warranty and support. I also considered the Amazon cheapies but, since I was looking at a long-term application, I bit the bullet and bought a SpectraPure. Haven't had a problem with it in 3 years and it gives 0 TDS every time with one filter change per year (15 gal / week). 

Re-mineralization is easy and it gives you control of your water rather than relying upon your water company. Most re-mineralization products come with a lot of potassium. So, I use Seachem's aquavitro line product: "Mineralize" (only available at LFSs) because it has Mg and Ca ONLY. It's not a big deal to use the other products that contain K, because you can adjust your K dosing to account for the GH booster-type products. I just prefer to keep the K dosing separate.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Greggz said:


> The pH meter and thermometers are to monitor the water being held in these two 55 gallon drums......plus heaters, circulation pumps, air pump, and plumbed to pump up in through the wall. Yeah, it was some work, but the satisfaction of how it works was worth it.


Ah yeah that does make sense! I'll probably have something very similar when all said and done. 



Deanna said:


> I use a SpectraPure. There is a difference in quality as you move up in price. It's in the rejection rates and the membranes, plus warranty and support. I also considered the Amazon cheapies but, since I was looking at a long-term application, I bit the bullet and bought a SpectraPure. Haven't had a problem with it in 3 years and it gives 0 TDS every time with one filter change per year (15 gal / week).
> 
> Re-mineralization is easy and it gives you control of your water rather than relying upon your water company. Most re-mineralization products come with a lot of potassium. So, I use Seachem's aquavitro line product: "Mineralize" (only available at LFSs) because it has Mg and Ca ONLY. It's not a big deal to use the other products that contain K, because you can adjust your K dosing to account for the GH booster-type products. I just prefer to keep the K dosing separate.


Thanks for commenting about your SpectraPure! I really wish this MaxCap® Performance Plus™ 1:1 Ultra Low Waste Water Ratio RO/DI System - MMC-RODI-100-PPLUS wasn't $600 for a 1:1 RO to Waste ratio. Glad to hear you really like your system. This will probably be what I go with, just now to figure out how much I'm really willing to spend on RO. 

Not that I need 400gpd, but this is a like what I would like to build. MaxCap® 1:1 400-GPD Ultra-High-Efficiency RO/DI System - MC-RODI-400UHE-20 Except that I would use the big blue vs the skinny big blue filters.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

livingf1t said:


> Hey Greggz, how did those uniseals work on those barrels? I just did mine and was wondering how they hold in the long run?


Have never leaked a bit, and I don't expect them to.

Looks like you are storing a LOT of water. How many gallons is that??


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## livingf1t (Dec 7, 2016)

Greggz said:


> Have never leaked a bit, and I don't expect them to.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like you are storing a LOT of water. How many gallons is that??




That's very good to hear! They are 75 gallons each. My concern was with them being installed on a round object instead of a flat surface. 


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

I figure with me using less than 20 gallons of water per week as I only use the RO water for my three shrimp tanks. If I was using 50 gallons or more a week and had relatively hard water I might of considered a more expensive unit. But neither of those are the case and I figure I will only need to change out the DI membrane maybe once every 6 months or longer. So far 4 months using it and still do not need a new membrane at all which I consider a win win. The unit has already paid for itself in the water I have made with it if I had to buy RO water instead. 

If you are planning on making a lot of water I can definitely see wanting a more expensive unit to save waste water but in my case wasting maybe 5 gallons of water more a week compared to the hundreds or thousands of dollar units that will save me 5 gallons of waste water is hardly worth it. 0 tds is 0 tds.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Greggz said:


> Geez you guys are making it sound too easy. Maybe I over thought mine a bit!:grin2:


Does the remineralization go to just your drinking water or also to the FW storage tank for your fish tank? If it goes to your tank, what are the kinds of specs it puts out? Or do you just remineralize the water through another product, or even tap water.


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## livingf1t (Dec 7, 2016)

Greggz said:


> Geez you guys are making it sound too easy. Maybe I over thought mine a bit!:grin2:




Hey Greggz, what is that remineralizer? 
Can that be connected to my unit in this picture? 











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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

chayos00 said:


> Does the remineralization go to just your drinking water or also to the FW storage tank for your fish tank? If it goes to your tank, what are the kinds of specs it puts out? Or do you just remineralize the water through another product, or even tap water.


The tanks and the kitchen get the same water. Pure RO water can actually be TOO pure. Some people don't like the taste of it. The remineralization filter adds back about 2 GH, and it tastes better to most people. 

The water in the storage tanks also get CaSO4 and MgSO4 to raise Gh to a total of 5 GH. They also get K2CO3 to raise the KH to 4. 

The circulation pumps are on all the time, and the heaters come on Friday afternoon for the Saturday water change. The tanks are in the basement up against a wall, so it's usually about 65* or so before heating. I bump it up to 74* for water changes. I also run an air pump, as I want the water well aerated before it goes into the tank.

And keep in mind I am on a well, so having the RO water for the kitchen and fridge is a nice bonus.

Bump:


livingf1t said:


> Hey Greggz, what is that remineralizer?
> Can that be connected to my unit in this picture?
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


It's the final stage and adds some minerals back to the water. As mentioned above, raises GH just a bit and makes the water "taste" better. 

And I don't see why you couldn't add it to any system. It's just an input/output connection just like every kind of filter that is available.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hey guys!

Thank you all for the replies! I'm sorry I didn't see them sooner, but I guess I wasn't subscribed to my own thread, lol!

For the filter itself, I did look at those from BRS, but right now I'm leaning towards a smaller, portable unit, either the Pure Water Club or the RO Buddy. I don't need any more than 25-50 gpd, and I'd like to be able to take the filter to work too, so a portable unit seems perfect for me. If anyone has any other ideas, I would appreciate the help for sure!
@Greggz, that looks like quite the system you have there! I see something in your picture about remineraliztion, does your filter do that for you? Is that for drinking water, officially? I've never known a filter to do that (remineralization). Could you go into more detail about how that works, please? Thank you very much for your help!

-Detritus


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

@Greggz, I'm sorry, I was on my phone earlier and didn't see that you had already answered my question about the remineralization stage, but I wanted to ask, is that really for drinking water, or for your aquariums? Would you mind giving me a quick rundown of what your system actually does for you? I'm sorry if this is a noob questions, or if your pictures should tell me this information, but Is this for your aquariums, or more for your kitchen/drinking water needs? Do you keep saltwater aquariums as well, is is this tailored to your freshwater/drinking water systems? I agree, pure or "nearly pure" RODI water tastes gross, you need minerals for flavor, which is why I'm asking about the remineralization stage specifically. So if you wouldn't mind, could you please give this noob a fast rundown of what your system does? Thank you in advance for your time and help!

-D


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Detritus said:


> @Greggz, I'm sorry, I was on my phone earlier and didn't see that you had already answered my question about the remineralization stage, but I wanted to ask, is that really for drinking water, or for your aquariums? Would you mind giving me a quick rundown of what your system actually does for you? I'm sorry if this is a noob questions, or if your pictures should tell me this information, but Is this for your aquariums, or more for your kitchen/drinking water needs? Do you keep saltwater aquariums as well, is is this tailored to your freshwater/drinking water systems? I agree, pure or "nearly pure" RODI water tastes gross, you need minerals for flavor, which is why I'm asking about the remineralization stage specifically. So if you wouldn't mind, could you please give this noob a fast rundown of what your system does? Thank you in advance for your time and help!


OK here goes. My water comes from a well, then goes through a softener. So it has very high KH, high TDS, some sodium, and no GH before it goes through the RO system.

The RO water is used both for the tank (freshwater only) and drinking water. The remineralization filter is there primarily for the drinking water. I've tried it both ways, and it does taste better after going through the filter. And no need for a DI stage for what I do.

I then raise the GH/KH further in the storage drums, which are just for aquarium water.

I hope that answered your question. Let me know if there anything else I can elaborate on.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Greggz said:


> OK here goes. My water comes from a well, then goes through a softener. So it has very high KH, high TDS, some sodium, and no GH before it goes through the RO system.
> 
> The RO water is used both for the tank (freshwater only) and drinking water. The remineralization filter is there primarily for the drinking water. I've tried it both ways, and it does taste better after going through the filter. And no need for a DI stage for what I do.
> 
> ...


Hi, Greggz! Thanks for the explanation, sounds like quite the system.


Well, I've gone ahead and confused myself again with my filter choice, lol! I had thought I had really decided to get the RO Buddy portable or the Pure Water Club portable, and I was just going back and fourth over which one to buy. I liked the idea of the portable because I'd use it at home and work, and they are priced right and well reviewed. However, it suddenly occurred to me that in our kitchen the previous owner had already installed some kind of simple, one stage water filter. Honestly, we'eve never used it or even looked into replacing the filter at all, we've simply ignored it. However, we have always disliked our tap water, and we are big water drinkers, so for years we've been buying case after case of bottled water to drink. We cook with the tap water, and it's even kind of gross for cooking. But knowing that we already have some kind of filter installed under the sink, and we've already got the faucet spout that comes up at the sink, I'm wondering if maybe I should get one of the RODI kits that includes the tank and everything for drinking water too. Now, my wife has already informed me that she will not trust any filter I buy and install, so we'd still have to buy bottled water, but we'd use our filtered water for cooking, and I'd drink it, if it tasted good. What do you guys think? How hard is it to install one of these kits? I found this one by Pure Water Club that looks like it might be a good deal, it doesn't yet have any user reviews, but if it's like their other filters it should perform fairly well, right? One question I do have is from the pictures it looks like you'd be getting water that's gone through all five stages, and should therefore be fairly close to "pure" water. I don't want to drink pure water, I believe you need some minerals for taste. So am I missing something with these kind of kits?






I'd appreciate any help or ideas! Thanks very much!

-Detritus


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Hi, Greggz! Thanks for the explanation, sounds like quite the system.
> 
> 
> Well, I've gone ahead and confused myself again with my filter choice, lol! I had thought I had really decided to get the RO Buddy portable or the Pure Water Club portable, and I was just going back and fourth over which one to buy. I liked the idea of the portable because I'd use it at home and work, and they are priced right and well reviewed. However, it suddenly occurred to me that in our kitchen the previous owner had already installed some kind of simple, one stage water filter. Honestly, we'eve never used it or even looked into replacing the filter at all, we've simply ignored it. However, we have always disliked our tap water, and we are big water drinkers, so for years we've been buying case after case of bottled water to drink. We cook with the tap water, and it's even kind of gross for cooking. But knowing that we already have some kind of filter installed under the sink, and we've already got the faucet spout that comes up at the sink, I'm wondering if maybe I should get one of the RODI kits that includes the tank and everything for drinking water too. Now, my wife has already informed me that she will not trust any filter I buy and install, so we'd still have to buy bottled water, but we'd use our filtered water for cooking, and I'd drink it, if it tasted good. What do you guys think? How hard is it to install one of these kits? I found this one by Pure Water Club that looks like it might be a good deal, it doesn't yet have any user reviews, but if it's like their other filters it should perform fairly well, right? One question I do have is from the pictures it looks like you'd be getting water that's gone through all five stages, and should therefore be fairly close to "pure" water. I don't want to drink pure water, I believe you need some minerals for taste. So am I missing something with these kind of kits?
> ...


Gotta love the ladies, do they really ever trust men? LOL A simple TDS tester will let ya know if it's good and working. Plus you not dying from drinking it. LoL 

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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> Gotta love the ladies, do they really ever trust men? LOL A simple TDS tester will let ya know if it's good and working. Plus you not dying from drinking it. LoL
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Yeah, sure, please come over and explain that to my wife ;-)

-D


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

I agree show her the TDS reading of the RO water. Send her a couple google links of what TDS is. Then she will know. Then with a TDS meter take a reading of bottled water and of RO water. That is what it took for my wife to now know how good they are and how to test them. No bottled water will be more pure than RO water I can promise you that. As far as that RO system I am sure its great. I got the other one from pure water club and could not be happier and my shrimp also agree that require the purest of water.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> I agree show her the TDS reading of the RO water. Send her a couple google links of what TDS is. Then she will know. Then with a TDS meter take a reading of bottled wanter and of RO water. That is what it took for my wife to now know how good they are and how to test them. No bottled water will be more pure than RO water I can promise you that. As far as that RO system I am sure its great. I got the other one from pure water club and could not be happier and my shrimp also agree that require the purest of water.


You have the 50 GPD porteble Pure Water Club unit, I believe? That's what I was going to go with, even over the RO Buddie. Now I'm just trying to decide between that filter and the other one I linked to that comes with the storage tank.

Thanks again!

-D


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> You have the 50 GPD porteble Pure Water Club unit, I believe? That's what I was going to go with, even over the RO Buddie. Now I'm just trying to decide between that filter and the other one I linked to that comes with the storage tank.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Yeah I have the 50. For what it comes with I would go with the $99 one you linked. With all the extra filters, spout and tank that is a killer deal and I may of gone with that one if I needed the spout and storage tank. I just use buckets as that is perfect for my needs. If you need those extras I say it’s a win win. 


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> Yeah I have the 50. For what it comes with I would go with the $99 one you linked. With all the extra filters, spout and tank that is a killer deal and I may of gone with that one if I needed the spout and storage tank. I just use buckets as that is perfect for my needs. If you need those extras I say it’s a win win.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'm very tempted to get that unit for sure. But, what about taste? With this setup, I'd be drinking nearly pure water, which doesn't not taste good, in my opinion. Maybe there's a remineralization stage I can get for this filter. But otherwise, it looks like a very good deal, wouldn't you agree? I'm nervous because it doesn't have a single review, but their other filters all get great reviews, it seems to me. 

-Detritus


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> I'm very tempted to get that unit for sure. But, what about taste? With this setup, I'd be drinking nearly pure water, which doesn't not taste good, in my opinion. Maybe there's a remineralization stage I can get for this filter. But otherwise, it looks like a very good deal, wouldn't you agree? I'm nervous because it doesn't have a single review, but their other filters all get great reviews, it seems to me.
> 
> -Detritus


From what I have read, as I'm researching this topic too. DI water doesn't have a good taste, but RO water people don't complain about as much. I for one prefer RO water for drinking. I hate the taste of my Tucson tap water when warm, it just tastes like crap. Even running it through a 0.5 micron solid carbon block filter that is going to my fridge water vs the granular expensive crap filter that GE uses, it still doesn't taste as good warm vs the tap. 

I believe you can find an add-on mineralization filter to be used post RO to give that flavor you are looking for. However I would say if you get an RO setup first try it after proper purging of the new filter and then see if you still want the extra mineral filter. 

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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> I'm very tempted to get that unit for sure. But, what about taste? With this setup, I'd be drinking nearly pure water, which doesn't not taste good, in my opinion. Maybe there's a remineralization stage I can get for this filter. But otherwise, it looks like a very good deal, wouldn't you agree? I'm nervous because it doesn't have a single review, but their other filters all get great reviews, it seems to me.
> 
> -Detritus


Am pretty sure you can get any of the remineralization addons and it should work for about any RO/DI filter. I say that because if you look they all use the same hose for connections. Simply connct and go. So the addon will/should be the same.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> From what I have read, as I'm researching this topic too. DI water doesn't have a good taste, but RO water people don't complain about as much. I for one prefer RO water for drinking. I hate the taste of my Tucson tap water when warm, it just tastes like crap. Even running it through a 0.5 micron solid carbon block filter that is going to my fridge water vs the granular expensive crap filter that GE uses, it still doesn't taste as good warm vs the tap.
> 
> I believe you can find an add-on mineralization filter to be used post RO to give that flavor you are looking for. However I would say if you get an RO setup first try it after proper purging of the new filter and then see if you still want the extra mineral filter.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk





clownplanted said:


> Am pretty sure you can get any of the remineralization addons and it should work for about any RO/DI filter. I say that because if you look they all use the same hose for connections. Simply connct and go. So the addon will/should be the same.


Hi guys! I have had an RODI Filter before for my reef tank use, and I tried the water from that filter, and I personally didn't like it. I've also had truly lab-quality distilled water, and it too didn't do it for me. Thanks to this forum, I have only recently learned of these remineralization stages, and even more recently (last night!) I stumbled on filters that also produce a fairly alkaline (like a pH of 10, or so) water. This again is for drinking water, and it either makes the water taste better, or is thought to be healthier in some way. I need to look a lot further into all this, unless someone here is more familiar with this kind of stuff and wouldn't mind offering a brief explanation. I'll post more when I know more too.

EDIT: Oh, and I know that RO water, as opposed to RODI water, would taste better, but then I'd have to figure out how to bypass the DI stage for drinking water. Someone in this thread or another I started mentioned adding a valve before the DI stage to enable bypassing that final stage. This may be an idea, I could run that bypass line up to the faucet thing for drinking water, and then have a second line that runs to just a bucket or reservoir for full RODI aquarium use water. 

Thanks everyone!

-Detritus


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Hi guys! I have had an RODI Filter before for my reef tank use, and I tried the water from that filter, and I personally didn't like it. I've also had truly lab-quality distilled water, and it too didn't do it for me. Thanks to this forum, I have only recently learned of these remineralization stages, and even more recently (last night!) I stumbled on filters that also produce a fairly alkaline (like a pH of 10, or so) water. This again is for drinking water, and it either makes the water taste better, or is thought to be healthier in some way. I need to look a lot further into all this, unless someone here is more familiar with this kind of stuff and wouldn't mind offering a brief explanation. I'll post more when I know more too.
> 
> EDIT: Oh, and I know that RO water, as opposed to RODI water, would taste better, but then I'd have to figure out how to bypass the DI stage for drinking water. Someone in this thread or another I started mentioned adding a valve before the DI stage to enable bypassing that final stage. This may be an idea, I could run that bypass line up to the faucet thing for drinking water, and then have a second line that runs to just a bucket or reservoir for full RODI aquarium use water.
> 
> ...


Yeah that bypass before DI would be a good idea. I was going to go with RO/DI as well, but since I'm not saltwater I'm going to skip that extra cost, so just RO for me. Im looking at the specrapure brand as they are claiming 99% rejection rates with their membranes so that would be good enough for me. As just are just 100 miles north I may have to make a trip up there to pick up my stuff when I pull the trigger as I see on their commercial side of things they sell softeners too, so that may be the combo I will go with. Nothing like actually getting your product directly from the MFG. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hmmmm, I took another look at that RO filter system I found before that had the water tank and extra filters for $100, and I noticed that although it's a 5 stage unit, it doesn't have a DI stage. It has the sediment filter, a granular carbon, a block carbon, the RO membrane, and still a third carbon post filter for taste. Unfortunately, because I'm also getting an RODI filter for reef tank use, I have to have a DI stage. So I'm going to do a little more looking, but in the end I might just get the $65 Pure Water Club 50gpd 4-stage with DI, and then just consider something else for our drinking water in the future. In fact, the $100 unit would still be a steal for drinking water, and that's what I'd probably do. 

Thanks all!

-D


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Hmmmm, I took another look at that RO filter system I found before that had the water tank and extra filters for $100, and I noticed that although it's a 5 stage unit, it doesn't have a DI stage. It has the sediment filter, a granular carbon, a block carbon, the RO membrane, and still a third carbon post filter for taste. Unfortunately, because I'm also getting an RODI filter for reef tank use, I have to have a DI stage. So I'm going to do a little more looking, but in the end I might just get the $65 Pure Water Club 50gpd 4-stage with DI, and then just consider something else for our drinking water in the future. In fact, the $100 unit would still be a steal for drinking water, and that's what I'd probably do.
> 
> Thanks all!
> 
> -D


You can always get an add-on DI stage. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> You can always get an add-on DI stage.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Exactly. Just attach a DI membrane at the very end and you are good to go. PureWaterClub.com


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> Exactly. Just attach a DI membrane at the very end and you are good to go. PureWaterClub.com


Thank you much for posting that link! This was an idea I had already, but frankly, I find the PWC website to be confusing to navigate, so I wasn't sure what would be a good DI stage to add. But at another $22 or so, this might be a great option. Let me give it some more thought, but thank you guys for your help!

-Detritus


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hey, Photosynthites!

I'm sorry for the short reply here, but I've tried TWICE over two nights to post a rather long-winded reply, and I've had trouble with the website each time. It's probably trying to tell me that everyone's sick of my rambling.....

Anyway, I think the Pure Water Club's website is hard to navigate, but a couple night's ago I found that they have a whole series of filters that are dual output, intended for both aquariums and drinking water. They basically all have a sediment filter, two carbon filters, the RO Membrane, and a DI stage, then a post RODI Granular Activated Carbon filter stage as a drinking water polisher. For the money, I think one of these filters would be a good fit for me, given my budget and needs. The only thing I don't like is that I already know I don't like the taste of "pure" water. But, if I can have great water for my aquariums, plus water for my dogs and cats (and I'm sorry I didn't mention that concern/usage sooner!!), cooking, ice, and my personal drinking water that would be fantastic. If it tastes horrible to me, then maybe in the future I can add a remineralization unit, or one of those fancy alkalinity stages for taste/health. What would you guys think of that?

Here's the RODI filter kit with drinking water kit I'm considering:

PureWaterClub.com

Thank you!

-Detritus


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

OK, I can't lie, this is something of a shameless bump, but I really do want to ask: I had ZERO qualms about ordering a Pure Water Club filter from Amazon, but the PWC website looks really, really second rate (maybe that's my fault, I use a free OS). Do any of you have any experience ordering directly from their website?

Thanks very much for the help, I really appreciate it!!

-Detritus


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> OK, I can't lie, this is something of a shameless bump, but I really do want to ask: I had ZERO qualms about ordering a Pure Water Club filter from Amazon, but the PWC website looks really, really second rate (maybe that's my fault, I use a free OS). Do any of you have any experience ordering directly from their website?
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I agree their website is pretty bad looking. However ordering from amazon and seeing the reviews it was no problem and after nearly 6 months still going strong. You can also get their replacement filters from the bay and also amazon. So really no need that I saw to order from their website. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> I agree their website is pretty bad looking. However ordering from amazon and seeing the reviews it was no problem and after nearly 6 months still going strong. You can also get their replacement filters from the bay and also amazon. So really no need that I saw to order from their website.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah, their website is horrible, lol! But I found this particular (see above) RODI+ filter through Amazon. What do you think, after reading along with my ramblings? I am really leaning towards this unit. I might need a little help installing it, but for my needs it should serve me well, don't you think? 

Thank you very much!!!!

-D


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Yeah, their website is horrible, lol! But I found this particular (see above) RODI+ filter through Amazon. What do you think, after reading along with my ramblings? I am really leaning towards this unit. I might need a little help installing it, but for my needs it should serve me well, don't you think?
> 
> Thank you very much!!!!
> 
> -D


I honestly think the only real differences between most RO systems is their efficiency and what kind of filters they use. However over time they will be replaced and then just go with a higher efficiency membrane. Also with a piggy back membrane to get that lower waste water to good water ratio. 

I want to go high efficiency from the get go, as we already use lots of water per month and I don't want to add more to the bills. That's why I'm looking at the spectraPure systems, plus they are up in Phoenix and I'm just south of them. So I'm hoping I can get a softener from them too along with the RO setup. Still need to contact them. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> Yeah, their website is horrible, lol! But I found this particular (see above) RODI+ filter through Amazon. What do you think, after reading along with my ramblings? I am really leaning towards this unit. I might need a little help installing it, but for my needs it should serve me well, don't you think?
> 
> Thank you very much!!!!
> 
> -D


I would go for the one you linked. It looks like a really good unit. As @chayos00 said once you start reading TDS just piggyback another DI membrane. It will last a very long time doing this. Think about it. Once you start hitting like 5 or less tds then just add not replace another membrane right after the original one. This will ensure that the newer membrane will last much longer than the original one. If I were in your shoes I would get that one. 

When I got the PWC one I got I did not read anyone here having one but I took the chance and am glad I did. For $60 and now going on 5 months and how much RO/DI water I have produced from it is a no brainer win win.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> I honestly think the only real differences between most RO systems is their efficiency and what kind of filters they use. However over time they will be replaced and then just go with a higher efficiency membrane. Also with a piggy back membrane to get that lower waste water to good water ratio.
> 
> I want to go high efficiency from the get go, as we already use lots of water per month and I don't want to add more to the bills. That's why I'm looking at the spectraPure systems, plus they are up in Phoenix and I'm just south of them. So I'm hoping I can get a softener from them too along with the RO setup. Still need to contact them.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Does SpectraPure have one of the 1:1 waste to good water I've read about? And they seem to be a little expensive, but it seems many people feel they are a very high quality unit. However, as you said, if you can replace stock filters with whatever filter you want, is this extra quality really worth it? I'm sincerely just asking, I'm not at all knocking your choice of filters, I'm just trying to understand. In fact, at this point, with one giant hesitation (the install), I'd really like to go with a unit I can use for drinking/cooking/ice water too. These Pure Water Club filters with the dual outputs seem to fit both my needs and budget, but at this point I want to do it right, so I can justify spending more if I can be convinced it's necessary. I came very, very close to ordering the Pure Water Club dual outlet a few times over the last few days, but I want to make sure it's the best choice, and I"m hung up on the installation, maybe you guys can help me there, please.

I took some pictures of what's under my sink now, which is a little single stage something or other the previous owner installed, and we've never done a thing with it. Now I just need to figure out how to get the pictures from my phone to this site :-( It's all hard plumbed with what I'm guessing is 1/4" copper pipe. There's a tee that's been soldered into the main copper cold water pipe, and the tee then goes to the 1/4" copper pipping that leads to the filter. There is some kind of brass screw-in fitting at the filter itself, the same fitting is on the output side of the filter, and then it's again hard pipped with (guessing) 1/4" copper pipe up to the water faucet at the sink level. And yes, I watched at least 6 or 8 YouTube "How To Install RO Filter Under Sink" videos, and in everyone it looks so easy, but, of course. at my house it's going to be difficult. I know I need to get some pictures up, but if you guys can help me through the install I would be very grateful!

Thank you so much!

-Detritus


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> I would go for the one you linked. It looks like a really good unit. As @chayos00 said once you start reading TDS just piggyback another DI membrane. It will last a very long time doing this. Think about it. Once you start hitting like 5 or less tds then just add not replace another membrane right after the original one. This will ensure that the newer membrane will last much longer than the original one. If I were in your shoes I would get that one.
> 
> When I got the PWC one I got I did not read anyone here having one but I took the chance and am glad I did. For $60 and now going on 5 months and how much RO/DI water I have produced from it is a no brainer win win.


[I'm sorry I didn't see your reply sooner!]
LOL, well now you're making me want to just grab the $60 portable and be done with it! Plus, my plan was to be able to bring it back and forth to work, so.......

No, at this point I know I want one that has the storage tank for drinking water, and I'll likely try that Pure Water Club kit I linked to before. I am, however, worried about installing it because, like everything in our house, it's nothing like what everyone else in the free world has. I tried to describe what's going on above, and I do have some pics I can try to get up, but I'm a little worried my install isn't going to be as simple as it should be. In fact, I'm even wondering if I can tap into the cold water line somewhere in the basement before it even comes to the sink. I believe there's something called a vampire tee that doesn't require drilling, cutting, or soldering the copper pipes at all. I wonder if I should just get something like that, and run the plastic tubing from there up to the filter that will still be mounted under the sink. Waste water should be easy with a saddle, I believe it's called.

Adding the extra DI stages down the road is a great idea, thanks! 

And sorry if this is a total noob question, but does anyone know if I need any other valves or parts or anything that's not included in these kits? For example, what pressurizes these storage tank, just the incoming water? Do I need any "optional but recommended" things like check valves, shut off vales, etc? I guess I can order the kit, see what it comes with and how it works, and then order anything else I need.

EDIT: Obviously, I know I need a TDS meter ;-) And what about an incoming water pressure gauge? How helpful are these?

Thanks again for your help!

-D


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

So I'm looking, and I'm not finding just a single DI stage that I could add to a filter that didn't have one. I'm sure they exists, can someone tell me were to look for them? The reason I'm asking is I'm now wondering how hard it would be to add a DI stage to the original drinking water kit (link below) that came with all those extra filters. If I can add DI to that, it may be the best deal. Any help would be appreciated!

-D

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073YJGFSR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2INA2NVFHWZRU&psc=1


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> So I'm looking, and I'm not finding just a single DI stage that I could add to a filter that didn't have one. I'm sure they exists, can someone tell me were to look for them? The reason I'm asking is I'm now wondering how hard it would be to add a DI stage to the original drinking water kit (link below) that came with all those extra filters. If I can add DI to that, it may be the best deal. Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> -D
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073YJGFSR/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2INA2NVFHWZRU&psc=1


All you need to do is connect a DI membrane right after the RO membrane which then will connect to the Post Carbon. Does that make sense? Wish I could paint it on the image but my paint skills suck. They have their DI membrane on their site and the Bay. Think cheaper on the Bay. This is what you need which will connect between the RO membrane and Post Carbon. The Post carbon will make the water taste better. As you see in the description it will work with any RO or RO/DI system. Because they have the quick fittings you just simply disconnect the RO membrane to Post Carbon and connect the DI Filter in between. PureWaterClub.com

Do a search for that part on the bay and its a couple $ cheaper.


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## markf (Dec 29, 2016)

For an additional DI cartridge you could try this, they can be refilled
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister.html


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

clownplanted said:


> I would go for the one you linked. It looks like a really good unit. As @chayos00 said once you start reading TDS just piggyback another DI membrane. It will last a very long time doing this. Think about it. Once you start hitting like 5 or less tds then just add not replace another membrane right after the original one. This will ensure that the newer membrane will last much longer than the original one. If I were in your shoes I would get that one.
> 
> When I got the PWC one I got I did not read anyone here having one but I took the chance and am glad I did. For $60 and now going on 5 months and how much RO/DI water I have produced from it is a no brainer win win.


From what I recall reading, I don't think an inline RO membrane works from the pressure of it alone. I read something about how your TDS creeps up and it just doesn't work. I believe you need a booster pump if you put an RO membrane inline. I think they somehow add another membrane for the wastewater to reduce waste water production to get closer to 1:1. 




Detritus said:


> Does SpectraPure have one of the 1:1 waste to good water I've read about? And they seem to be a little expensive, but it seems many people feel they are a very high quality unit. However, as you said, if you can replace stock filters with whatever filter you want, is this extra quality really worth it? I'm sincerely just asking, I'm not at all knocking your choice of filters, I'm just trying to understand. In fact, at this point, with one giant hesitation (the install), I'd really like to go with a unit I can use for drinking/cooking/ice water too. These Pure Water Club filters with the dual outputs seem to fit both my needs and budget, but at this point I want to do it right, so I can justify spending more if I can be convinced it's necessary. I came very, very close to ordering the Pure Water Club dual outlet a few times over the last few days, but I want to make sure it's the best choice, and I"m hung up on the installation, maybe you guys can help me there, please.
> 
> I took some pictures of what's under my sink now, which is a little single stage something or other the previous owner installed, and we've never done a thing with it. Now I just need to figure out how to get the pictures from my phone to this site :-( It's all hard plumbed with what I'm guessing is 1/4" copper pipe. There's a tee that's been soldered into the main copper cold water pipe, and the tee then goes to the 1/4" copper pipping that leads to the filter. There is some kind of brass screw-in fitting at the filter itself, the same fitting is on the output side of the filter, and then it's again hard pipped with (guessing) 1/4" copper pipe up to the water faucet at the sink level. And yes, I watched at least 6 or 8 YouTube "How To Install RO Filter Under Sink" videos, and in everyone it looks so easy, but, of course. at my house it's going to be difficult. I know I need to get some pictures up, but if you guys can help me through the install I would be very grateful!
> 
> ...


Yes they do have the 1:1 systems, however the cheapest one is $599. No way I'm going to spend that much! I'm going to piece together my own system. As I'm going to go with a softener too, I'm going to sediment filter the whole house water a sediment spin down filter, which is like 25-50 microns and then the soft water loop down to 1 micron. Probably overkill, but that's what I do LOL. And then from there, I'm going to see if I can find less than 0.5 micron for prefiltering the RO membrane. Now what I plan to do is either get some RO membrane housings and then buy the Spectrapure membranes that are the 99% rejection vs buying their complete systems. It's cheap enough to get canisters for filters to make my own custom filter. Since I'm having issues finding 20x4.5" sub micron filters, I may have to go 10x2.5 or 10x4.5 if they make filters for that size for the RO. 




Detritus said:


> So I'm looking, and I'm not finding just a single DI stage that I could add to a filter that didn't have one. I'm sure they exists, can someone tell me were to look for them? The reason I'm asking is I'm now wondering how hard it would be to add a DI stage to the original drinking water kit (link below) that came with all those extra filters. If I can add DI to that, it may be the best deal. Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> -D


So after a quick google search, here's some add on DI systems. 
MaxCap® D1 Single-Stage DI System Add-On w/ SuperDI Cartridge - MC-DI-1-10HC
BRS Single Deionization Canister
Single Deionization Canister with DM-1 Dual TDS Meter
Dual Deionization Canister
Dual Deionization Canister with TRM-1 Triple TDS Meter
BRS DI Stuff
AquaFX Add-On DI Canister and Filter Cartridge
Captive Purity Single Deionization Canister
Captive Purity Single Deionization Canister with TDS Meter


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> All you need to do is connect a DI membrane right after the RO membrane which then will connect to the Post Carbon. Does that make sense? Wish I could paint it on the image but my paint skills suck. They have their DI membrane on their site and the Bay. Think cheaper on the Bay. This is what you need which will connect between the RO membrane and Post Carbon. The Post carbon will make the water taste better. As you see in the description it will work with any RO or RO/DI system. Because they have the quick fittings you just simply disconnect the RO membrane to Post Carbon and connect the DI Filter in between. PureWaterClub.com
> 
> Do a search for that part on the bay and its a couple $ cheaper.


Yes, that makes perfect sense, that's exactly what I am looking to do. Can you tell me what kind of tee or valve or whatever I need to be splicing into the 1/4" lines to add the DI? And, I'll need some way to split the output to get the dual output I'm hoping for. I'd like one line to run through the the main RO plus the DI for the aquariums, and the second line for drinking water. I'm not sure I the drinking water line to go through the DI because that might be a waste of DI resin, but, obviously, it needs to go through the post filter carbon. 

Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it!



markf said:


> For an additional DI cartridge you could try this, they can be refilled
> https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/single-deionization-canister.html


HI! Actually, i did think to check the BRS website, so I did find that DI canister, I also noticed they had a dual DI addon for like $60. That might not be a bad way to go. Thanks a lot for putting up the link!

-Detritus


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## Rogozhin75 (Aug 15, 2017)

Nice thread, I need a system too.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Rogozhin75 said:


> Nice thread, I need a system too.


Thank you for stopping by! It's becoming much more involved that I had ever thought initially, but I think it will be worth it.

Thanks again!

-D

Bump:


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## Rogozhin75 (Aug 15, 2017)

Detritus said:


> Thank you for stopping by! It's becoming much more involved that I had ever thought initially, but I think it will be worth it.
> 
> Thanks again!
> 
> ...



Will be fun seeing your finished system!


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Hey guys!

Sorry I haven't posted in a while, life sometimes gets in the way. I did finally break down and order a filter system, I decided after MUCH deliberation to go with the $99 Pure Water Club with all those free filters. Yeah, the free filters kind of did it for me, even if they are not "the best" quality filters out there. A big question in my mind was how to hook it into my existing water filter system under the sink, but a trip to Home Depot set me straight. For the record, I don't mind soldering copper piping, but I had already read about push-on compression fittings, and sure enough the guy at HD found for me a push-on valve that *should* fit my exiting copper. I *should* be able to cut my existing copper pipe that goes to my relatively useless current filter (previous owner install), push the new valve on, and then run a regular plastic line to my new RO filter system. We shall see, but I'm confident, at least enough to order the system ;-)

I also want to say that recently I noticed that the cost of the Aqua Buddie 4-stage RODI unit dipped to $53 on that big online book store. I came very close to doing this as it's cheap, well reviewed, and portable so I could have brought it back and forth to work. But, I realized I really want something for our drinking water as well, so that drove my decision to the next level. 

My hope with the filter itself - and please tell me if I'm wrong - is that the system I ordered has 5 stages; sediment>>carbon1>>cabon2>>ro membrane, and then it goes off to a fifth and final carbon stage that supposedly makes the drinking water taste better. It finally empties into a pressure tank of unknown volume; I hope it's at least 3 gallons. My plan is to branch the output off after the RO membrane and have one line continue to the 5th carbon stage "drinking water", and the other line be my "fish" line. For my fish line, I hope to plumb this line into a BRS.com dual DI stage (about $50+media), and off to my water reservoir. For the drinking water, I hope to first try the post carbon filter, but if my drinking water still tastes less than acceptable, I will try a remineraliztion/pH final stage. I'm hoping all this is possible, and we'll know in a week or so when my filter gets here!

Thank you all for your help with my decision! 

-Detritus


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Hey guys!
> 
> Sorry I haven't posted in a while, life sometimes gets in the way. I did finally break down and order a filter system, I decided after MUCH deliberation to go with the $99 Pure Water Club with all those free filters. Yeah, the free filters kind of did it for me, even if they are not "the best" quality filters out there. A big question in my mind was how to hook it into my existing water filter system under the sink, but a trip to Home Depot set me straight. For the record, I don't mind soldering copper piping, but I had already read about push-on compression fittings, and sure enough the guy at HD found for me a push-on valve that *should* fit my exiting copper. I *should* be able to cut my existing copper pipe that goes to my relatively useless current filter (previous owner install), push the new valve on, and then run a regular plastic line to my new RO filter system. We shall see, but I'm confident, at least enough to order the system ;-)
> 
> ...


What was the GPD rating of that setup, do you recall? Also how big of a tank/tanks/total water volume will this be used for? 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> What was the GPD rating of that setup, do you recall? Also how big of a tank/tanks/total water volume will this be used for?
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


It's funny you ask because I always thought this was a 50 gallon per day system, but I just looked at the Amazon page again, and I'm pretty sure it says it's a 5 gallon per day system, which I've never heard of. I'm hoping ot's 50gpd, and not 5. If it's really 5gpd, I don't think that would work for me just out of convenience. I guess we'll see when it gets here, and if it has to go back it can.

To answer your other questions, tanks that I plan on using RO or RODI water for are very small, I plan on two to three in the 10 to 40 gallon range. At most I'm toying with the idea of a 65 gallon reef, and I do have other, larger tanks for Cichlids that will just get straight tap water. So I don't think my demand will be too much.

Thanks!

-D


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> It's funny you ask because I always thought this was a 50 gallon per day system, but I just looked at the Amazon page again, and I'm pretty sure it says it's a 5 gallon per day system, which I've never heard of. I'm hoping ot's 50gpd, and not 5. If it's really 5gpd, I don't think that would work for me just out of convenience. I guess we'll see when it gets here, and if it has to go back it can.
> 
> To answer your other questions, tanks that I plan on using RO or RODI water for are very small, I plan on two to three in the 10 to 40 gallon range. At most I'm toying with the idea of a 65 gallon reef, and I do have other, larger tanks for Cichlids that will just get straight tap water. So I don't think my demand will be too much.


Have never heard of an RO/DI unit only doing 5gpd so I am positive that is a typo. Am sure its like mine in that it is 50gpd.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> It's funny you ask because I always thought this was a 50 gallon per day system, but I just looked at the Amazon page again, and I'm pretty sure it says it's a 5 gallon per day system, which I've never heard of. I'm hoping ot's 50gpd, and not 5. If it's really 5gpd, I don't think that would work for me just out of convenience. I guess we'll see when it gets here, and if it has to go back it can.
> 
> To answer your other questions, tanks that I plan on using RO or RODI water for are very small, I plan on two to three in the 10 to 40 gallon range. At most I'm toying with the idea of a 65 gallon reef, and I do have other, larger tanks for Cichlids that will just get straight tap water. So I don't think my demand will be too much.


Since it's for a drinking water application, I bet it is for just 5gpd, however that should be a simple swap of the RO membrane with a higher GPD setup and you should be good to go if it really is that low of a production rate. Imagine in just 24hrs only getting like 4/5ths of a 5g Home Depot bucket filled up for a water change. LOL That would suck!


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> Since it's for a drinking water application, I bet it is for just 5gpd, however that should be a simple swap of the RO membrane with a higher GPD setup and you should be good to go if it really is that low of a production rate. Imagine in just 24hrs only getting like 4/5ths of a 5g Home Depot bucket filled up for a water change. LOL That would suck!


Yes, that would stink! And what if I actually wanted a glass of water, lol! But, like ClownPlanted mentioned, it's likely a typo since I can't find a 5 gallon per day unit by Pure Water Club. I will say, I have always thought the included drinking water pressure tank looked very small in the picture, but I figured what the heck, I don't have a lot of room under the sink anyway. Strangely, I cold never find the volume of the tank given anywhere in the listing either. So I'm a little nevous, but still hopeful that the 5 gpd is just a typo and it's really 50 gpd. I would be very happy with 25 gpd, I had one years ago for a 125 gallon tank, but I don't think I could make do with just 5 gpd. We'll see when it arrives! 

Thanks guys!

-D


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Yes, that would stink! And what if I actually wanted a glass of water, lol! But, like ClownPlanted mentioned, it's likely a typo since I can't find a 5 gallon per day unit by Pure Water Club. I will say, I have always thought the included drinking water pressure tank looked very small in the picture, but I figured what the heck, I don't have a lot of room under the sink anyway. Strangely, I cold never find the volume of the tank given anywhere in the listing either. So I'm a little nevous, but still hopeful that the 5 gpd is just a typo and it's really 50 gpd. I would be very happy with 25 gpd, I had one years ago for a 125 gallon tank, but I don't think I could make do with just 5 gpd. We'll see when it arrives!
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> -D


So I just looked at their membranes and the smallest they have is 50GPD, so looks like a typo. The rest of their other systems are at least 50gpd too. Should be good to go then. 

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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> Yes, that would stink! And what if I actually wanted a glass of water, lol! But, like ClownPlanted mentioned, it's likely a typo since I can't find a 5 gallon per day unit by Pure Water Club. I will say, I have always thought the included drinking water pressure tank looked very small in the picture, but I figured what the heck, I don't have a lot of room under the sink anyway. Strangely, I cold never find the volume of the tank given anywhere in the listing either. So I'm a little nevous, but still hopeful that the 5 gpd is just a typo and it's really 50 gpd. I would be very happy with 25 gpd, I had one years ago for a 125 gallon tank, but I don't think I could make do with just 5 gpd. We'll see when it arrives!
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> -D


With my 50gpd unit I typically get a 5 gallon bucket full in about 1 1/2 hours. So this is a bit faster than the stated 50gpd but my water pressure is very good so I think that helps.

I messaged the seller for the unit you got to ensure if its a typo or not.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> So I just looked at their membranes and the smallest they have is 50GPD, so looks like a typo. The rest of their other systems are at least 50gpd too. Should be good to go then.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Yes! Thanks for the verification, but I've never seen a Pure Water Club RO filter that's 5 gpd either. I'm really pretty sure it's 50 gpd, but we'll know soon. Honestly, for $100 and all the extra filters (which I think will last my family 18 to 24 months), even if it is 5 gpd, and if I can't return it easily, I might install it in our bathroom.

Thanks for keeping up with my thread!

-D


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> With my 50gpd unit I typically get a 5 gallon bucket full in about 1 1/2 hours. So this is a bit faster than the stated 50gpd but my water pressure is very good so I think that helps.
> 
> I messaged the seller for the unit you got to ensure if its a typo or not.


Hey, awesome, let me know what they say! I have to think it's a typo, right?

Thank you so much, you're a big reason I'm trying Pure Water Club filters!

-D


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> Hey, awesome, let me know what they say! I have to think it's a typo, right?
> 
> Thank you so much, you're a big reason I'm trying Pure Water Club filters!
> 
> -D


Yeah its a typo. Just got an email back stating its 50gpd. Here is the email from him

"Hi,

I don't carry 5 gallons RO system, it should be 50 gallons when you have 65PSI water pressure.
Thank you, David"


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> Yeah its a typo. Just got an email back stating its 50gpd. Here is the email from him
> 
> "Hi,
> 
> ...


Ah great, thank you for shooting him that message! Well, now I'm just waiting for it to arrive and we'll go from there.

Thanks again for your help!

-D


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Detritus said:


> Ah great, thank you for shooting him that message! Well, now I'm just waiting for it to arrive and we'll go from there.
> 
> Thanks again for your help!
> 
> -D


He actually informed me that unit that you got the RO membrane is 75gpd and looking at the pictures seems to be the case so that is even better.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Time for BRS's Black Friday sales! Wondering if I should just grab one too, but it says for TDS below 300 where I average about 400.....

BRS - 15% off SITEWIDE starts now! 
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/bulk-reverse-osmosis-filters-systems/reverse-osmosis-systems.html


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> Time for BRS's Black Friday sales! Wondering if I should just grab one too, but it says for TDS below 300 where I average about 400.....
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Just means you will need to replace the filter specifically the di resin a bit faster. Am sure it will work great. That is a good deal


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

clownplanted said:


> Just means you will need to replace the filter specifically the di resin a bit faster. Am sure it will work great. That is a good deal
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I'll be skipping the DI part most likely since I just need one for a FW setup. Wonder how high it would be, hell I'm sure as long as I'm 20-30 I'll be okay with that.


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

clownplanted said:


> He actually informed me that unit that you got the RO membrane is 75gpd and looking at the pictures seems to be the case so that is even better.


Again, I thank you so much for your help! I have actually read where lower rated filters (like 25 gpd) were actually more efficient than 100 gpd+ filters, so I have been leaning towards "lower is better", but yeah, if it's 75 gpd instead of 50 gpd, I would think that's a deal ;-) It's on order, I will absolutely update when I receive the unit. 

Thanks again for your help!!

-D


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Well, I'm still waiting for the RO filter kit to arrive. Apparently, UPS says there's a delay of some kind, but there's hope, they say, that it could be here Tuesday. Here's hoping!

I did see that BRS has their Black Friday deals going on, and they've got their dual DI canister add on for $50 preloaded with resin, so I think I'm going to grab that unit too. I will update when the filter unit comes, just if anyone else is interested to know more about this PWC kit.

Thanks!

-Detritus


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Yeah I'm looking at the BRS sales as well. I'm probably gonna get the 4 stage one BRS RO system that's set for 150 GPD and then add the booster pump to the system to ensure I have enough pressure to be able to get the lowest TDS and least amount of waste water. I've got about 45psi at my house, I haven't adjusted the external regulator higher on the house, but it does go up to 65-75 psi (if I could only have been able to tap the water before the house regulator, but there's no way that's gonna happen.


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## NueoK (Oct 24, 2017)

Bulkreefsupply RODI Units are a great deal! I had them for my reef tank. FYI the water coming out of a RO only unit is about 95% of whatever that came in from your tap. This number will change depending on temperature and pressure.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

So I pulled the trigger and got the 4 Stage 150 GPD BRS RO/DI system along with a booster pump to start me out. I went with the 150gpd system for the reduced amount of waste water and hopefully better efficiency water produced. When I can afford it, I'm gonna prefilter it with the larger 20x4.5" big blue canister filter down to say 1 micron or 0.5" if I can find a sediment filter that small. Then I'll put a softener on the loop as my calcium is around 200ppm. Once I get it all here I'll see what I need to do to run RO to my kitchen for drinking water. Just wonder if the pre booster pump for the RO will be enough pressure to push that in a water line up in my attic and to the kitchen and the fridge. If I leave an RO drinking tank in the garage I may go with a 10g one vs the under sink of 3g. 

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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Well, the Pure Water Club RO filter system FINALLY arrived at about 7:30pm last night, and I was making filtered water by 9:00pm! And that included ripping my old unit out. Really, the install couldn't have been easier, and there were so many things I was worried about. For starters, I had the old filter that was hard plumbed with copper pipe. I was able to cut that, and slide a Shark Bite "no-solder" valve, which then connects to the plastic RO line via a compression fitting. The new RO filter itself seems nice, I'm having just a little trouble with a tiny leak somewhere, but I'm sure it's just a loose fitting I haven't found yet. The storage tank is better than I expected, it's 4 gallons in volume, and I am genuinely impressed at how fast the water comes out. Plenty quick enough for a glass of water. The water tastes good, but not great, at least not to me, so I may look into an inexpensive remineralization stage for the drinking water. I will also say that the faucet they included is kind of cheap looking, but I could tell that in the listing photos, and I know I can upgrade that later if I want to. But it does work well ;-)

So my plan now is to get the kit that goes to the fridge for the ice maker. I assume I can just put a tee fitting somewhere on the outlet line that goes to the drinking water faucet, and run that to my ice maker, right? And, then I want to split the line off after the RO stage and feed that to a BRS dual DI canister unit for my future saltwater tank. Again, is this just a matter of adding a tee fitting where I want it? Last, if I ran this line to say my basement and had a storage tank down there for aquarium water, do I just need an auto shut of valve and a Rubbermaid Brute can?

@chayos00, good luck with your purchase! Those BRS units look nice and solid, and were definitely tempting. I just thought I'd save a buck with the PWC filter. But I hope your BRS filter fits your needs well.

Thanks for the help everyone, I really appreciate it!!

-D


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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Happy Thanksgiving everyone!

So at about 11:00pm last night I heard a noise and the sound of water rushing everywhere, and I ran to the kitchen to find that the compression fitting on the Shark Bite valve came loose, the RO tubing came out, and the water was flying everywhere out of the valve. I turned the valve to off, and cleaned up the flood as best I could, and now I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. I really thought I had that part connected exactly as per the directions, but clearly not. I'll be trying round two in a few minutes here. 

-Detritus


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Happy Thanksgiving everyone!
> 
> So at about 11:00pm last night I heard a noise and the sound of water rushing everywhere, and I ran to the kitchen to find that the compression fitting on the Shark Bite valve came loose, the RO tubing came out, and the water was flying everywhere out of the valve. I turned the valve to off, and cleaned up the flood as best I could, and now I'm trying to figure out what went wrong. I really thought I had that part connected exactly as per the directions, but clearly not. I'll be trying round two in a few minutes here.
> 
> -Detritus


Based on when I worked in my company's manufacturing with our instruments you have to be very careful that push to connect fittings are fully seated. Sometimes they seem like they are when they really aren't. They would always fail our leak checks when not all the way seated. 

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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

Are you talking about the push together connections on the filter itself? What failed for me was a compression fitting (I think that's what it's called) that was on the output side of the Shark Bite quarter turn valve attached to my cold water line. The compression fitting has a nut, nylon ring or washer, and a brass RO tubing insert that all gets tightened where the plastic RO tubing meets the quarter turn valve, and that's what let loose. I'm not sure if I over tightened or under tightened that nut, but I tried it twice with the two sets of nylon washers things I had (can't use them more than once), and both failed. One, kind of catastrophically (and could have been MUCH worse if I wasn't right there in the other room), and the second attempt I was just able to easily pull the plastic tubing out of the fitting myself. So I'm not doing something right, or the guy at Home Depot gave me the wrong valve/washer setup. The valve, actually, seems to work just fine, but where its output meets the plastic tubing is giving me the problem. I'm not going to be able to get to Home Depot any time soon to get more of the nylon washers to try again, but that's the next step. Maybe Saturday I can go.

Thanks for the help!

-D


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Detritus said:


> Are you talking about the push together connections on the filter itself? What failed for me was a compression fitting (I think that's what it's called) that was on the output side of the Shark Bite quarter turn valve attached to my cold water line. The compression fitting has a nut, nylon ring or washer, and a brass RO tubing insert that all gets tightened where the plastic RO tubing meets the quarter turn valve, and that's what let loose. I'm not sure if I over tightened or under tightened that nut, but I tried it twice with the two sets of nylon washers things I had (can't use them more than once), and both failed. One, kind of catastrophically (and could have been MUCH worse if I wasn't right there in the other room), and the second attempt I was just able to easily pull the plastic tubing out of the fitting myself. So I'm not doing something right, or the guy at Home Depot gave me the wrong valve/washer setup. The valve, actually, seems to work just fine, but where its output meets the plastic tubing is giving me the problem. I'm not going to be able to get to Home Depot any time soon to get more of the nylon washers to try again, but that's the next step. Maybe Saturday I can go.
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> 
> -D


Oh sorry, I was thinking it was the shark bite that let loose. 

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## Detritus (Oct 7, 2017)

chayos00 said:


> Oh sorry, I was thinking it was the shark bite that let loose.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


Yeah, the push on part of the Shark Bite that installed on my regular 1/2 copper pipe, that part held fine. It was the other end of that valve where the plastic tubing for the RO filter came in. I shud be able to get to the hardware store tomorrow and get some new plastic rings and perhaps some advice if there's a knowledgeable person there that day. 

Thanks for keeping up with my saga!

-D


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Got my new toy in while I was off 4x4ing this weekend! Vs it being delivered today. Glad I told the wife anticipating the change to not get yelled at for spending more money. LOL

Now to find time to get it setup.









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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

chayos00 said:


> Got my new toy in while I was off 4x4ing this weekend! Vs it being delivered today. Glad I told the wife anticipating the change to not get yelled at for spending more money. LOL
> 
> Now to find time to get it setup.
> 
> ...


Nice. Swap to out to at least 1 micron sediment and carbon as soon as you get chance. I started out with the BRS single RO membrane unit a couple of years ago and have been tweaking it ever since. When it came time to replace my ro membrane I switched to spectrapure 99.9% rejection membrane and 0.5 micron sediment and carbon filters. My unit is now a 5 stage as I have 2 carbon blocks and a DI which is automated. This is my combo now.

0.5m sediment -> 0.5 carbon -> fx chloraguard carbon -> spectrapure 99.9% RO -> DI

My TDS out of the RO membrane is 1. My DI lasts me an insanely long time because of it. It is possible to get almost 0 TDS out of the RO only if it's tuned properly. I use the fx chloraguard as my local water is treated with chloramines. My rejection rate is 2.5:1.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> Nice. Swap to out to at least 1 micron sediment and carbon as soon as you get chance. I started out with the BRS single RO membrane unit a couple of years ago and have been tweaking it ever since. When it came time to replace my ro membrane I switched to spectrapure 99.9% rejection membrane and 0.5 micron sediment and carbon filters. My unit is now a 5 stage as I have 2 carbon blocks and a DI which is automated. This is my combo now.
> 
> 0.5m sediment -> 0.5 carbon -> fx chloraguard carbon -> spectrapure 99.9% RO -> DI
> 
> My TDS out of the RO membrane is 1. My DI lasts me an insanely long time because of it. It is possible to get almost 0 TDS out of the RO only if it's tuned properly. I use the fx chloraguard as my local water is treated with chloramines. My rejection rate is 2.5:1.


You have pretty much read my mind on what my goals are. I'm going to prefilter this whole thing using big blue filters down to at least 1 micron or lower if I can find one that small in the big blue size if not I'll get the spectrapure sediment filters and their 99% membranes too, but not till I have good prefilters and a water softener. To which I'll also get some big blue sized pair of carbon blocks too. Is there such a thing as too filtered RO water? LOL 

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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

chayos00 said:


> You have pretty much read my mind on what my goals are. I'm going to prefilter this whole thing using big blue filters down to at least 1 micron or lower if I can find one that small in the big blue size if not I'll get the spectrapure sediment filters and their 99% membranes too, but not till I have good prefilters and a water softener. To which I'll also get some big blue sized pair of carbon blocks too. Is there such a thing as too filtered RO water? LOL
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


A prefilter no matter the size isn't going to make the water more "filtered" per say. All that does is require you to change the sediment and carbon less often. A huge sediment filter is very expensive and not very cost efficient. A $5 1-micron will last you at least 6 months and be just as good. How filtered the water is will be measured by the TDS out of the RO membrane. Depending on the TDS going in you can get as low as 1 TDS. You water needs will be the one that determines how large your filters should be. I make ~20g of RO water per week counting the drinking water and only need to change my regular sediment filter every 6 months. RO membranes last for a couple thousand gallons so unless you are making hundreds of gallons of water per month it will last you 2-3 years.

The most important thing in an RODI filter is getting the water to have as little TDS as possible out of the RO membrane so you are not going through DI resin quickly as that is the most expensive thing.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> A prefilter no matter the size isn't going to make the water more "filtered" per say. All that does is require you to change the sediment and carbon less often. A huge sediment filter is very expensive and not very cost efficient. A $5 1-micron will last you at least 6 months and be just as good. How filtered the water is will be measured by the TDS out of the RO membrane. Depending on the TDS going in you can get as low as 1 TDS. You water needs will be the one that determines how large your filters should be. I make ~20g of RO water per week counting the drinking water and only need to change my regular sediment filter every 6 months. RO membranes last for a couple thousand gallons so unless you are making hundreds of gallons of water per month it will last you 2-3 years.
> 
> The most important thing in an RODI filter is getting the water to have as little TDS as possible out of the RO membrane so you are not going through DI resin quickly as that is the most expensive thing.


For the large big blue filters my intent with them is actually to filter my whole house water supply as well as the RO system. Which is why I was looking at such large filters to handle that large of a water load. Do you run any other pre filters on your RO system? For my RO water volume I will probably be in the range of 50 to 100 gallons a week. 

The BB sediment filters are much larger, 20x4.5" vs 10x2.5". Also just searching and some 1 micron pleated filters are in the 15-20 range, so not too bad for the larger flow of a whole house. However unless I find the 1 micron catching a bunch of stuff I may stick to 5 micron for the whole house.

For TDS I'm about 350-400 on average, but have a calcium in the 200 ppm range so I need to soften for that to keep the membrane in better health. As I've read calcium is harder to remove than sodium levels. 

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## stussy28 (Mar 17, 2016)

Sorry to hijack this thread, but it has been really informative. Is distilled water better for planted tanks? I have a chance to get a portable distiller for 50 dollars or a rodi unit for 75. The distiller is nice in that you just pour the water into it. I’m trying to have keep some shrimp and my water is very hard, so they struggle to molt.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

stussy28 said:


> Sorry to hijack this thread, but it has been really informative. Is distilled water better for planted tanks? I have a chance to get a portable distiller for 50 dollars or a rodi unit for 75. The distiller is nice in that you just pour the water into it. I’m trying to have keep some shrimp and my water is very hard, so they struggle to molt.


They should be about one in the same type of water when done. RO produces clean water and also waste water. Distilling water will only cost you in electricity to make it, at least with what I know of it.


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

stussy28 said:


> Sorry to hijack this thread, but it has been really informative. Is distilled water better for planted tanks? I have a chance to get a portable distiller for 50 dollars or a rodi unit for 75. The distiller is nice in that you just pour the water into it. I’m trying to have keep some shrimp and my water is very hard, so they struggle to molt.


Distilled water is different than RO in that Distilled is free of any gasses as well. RO water does not filter out the gasses. But usually after a couple days of running an airstone through the RO water it will free the water of any gasses.


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

How do I find out what replacement filters I need or are they pretty universal? I haven't popped my RO filter apart yet...are there markings on the filter? Asking because the company I got mine from is no longer around and my filter definitely needs new filters since it sat for a long time and now it's eff'ed up. Must be some nasty gunk in the system somewhere because my "RO" water is low TDS but has ammonia and my tap has 0 ammonia. So something in the lines or filters is causing it. I thought about just grabbing a cheap RO Buddy off Amazon but figured I'd price new filters first to see which was a better option.


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## stussy28 (Mar 17, 2016)

Thanks guys. I will go with the distiller then as it seems easier to pour water in and then it distills into a container the same size that I add in.


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## DigityDog70 (Jan 20, 2017)

Hey Everybody, 

I've got a question with regard to the RODI systems that people have running into their reservoirs or fill tanks, barrels and some of the setups I’ve seen in this thread.

Currently, I'm using an RO Buddie and it's a solid product for the time being, however if you check out this video at the 2:51 mark 



 , you will see that a nifty float valve is installed. Now I have a question right here with that valve once it closes as the water rises high enough. Is the RODI system’s 1/4” push fit plumbing strong enough to withstand the pressure with the tap water turned on and running through it at this juncture for vey long or do I need to turn the tap water off in order to prevents leaks or damage to my RODI system? I could buy the valve and find out but it would be ideal if someone could confirm or deny if the RODI plumbing won’t start sprouting leaks on me once the floata valve closes?

Thanks for any feedback!

Bump:


Detritus said:


> Hi guys!
> 
> I'm a noob to "real" planted tanks, but not necessarily aquariums in general. I hope this post is in the right section because really my question is, what do most of you guys use for water in your freshwater planted tanks? Are you using RODI water that has been remineralized, and if so, with what? Or, are you using a ratio of RODI to tap water? Something else?
> 
> ...


Good questions! I was relieved to have stumbled across this thread. Been working on something similar myself. I think this video I posted a link to is very helpful for those of you that are still learning like myself about auto fill & or RODI systems etc. There are two informative segments in the series. Enjoy[emoji6].

Cheers,
DD


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## DigityDog70 (Jan 20, 2017)

Alas after more research the answer if found... so it would seem? FLOAT VALVE KIT W/SOLENOID


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

DigityDog70 said:


> Is the RODI system’s 1/4” push fit plumbing strong enough to withstand the pressure with the tap water turned on and running through it at this juncture for vey long or do I need to turn the tap water off in order to prevents leaks or damage to my RODI system? I could buy the valve and find out but it would be ideal if someone could confirm or deny if the RODI plumbing won’t start sprouting leaks on me once the floata valve closes?


The RO system is designed to withstand the water pressure. Doesn't matter if you have a float valve or not. When you turn on a tap, or open the float, it starts making new water. When closed, it stops. 

The float valve is no different than turning off the water spigot if you had it under the kitchen sink for drinking water. The system stops making water until you turn on the tap again.

Are you also using the water for the kitchen? If so, when the large storage tank is being filled, you will have little to no RO water pressure at the kitchen sink. I use a solenoid on a timer so that I only fill my large storage tanks overnight. That way during the day there is always pressure to the kitchen sink.

Hope that makes sense.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Nubster said:


> How do I find out what replacement filters I need or are they pretty universal? I haven't popped my RO filter apart yet...are there markings on the filter? Asking because the company I got mine from is no longer around and my filter definitely needs new filters since it sat for a long time and now it's eff'ed up. Must be some nasty gunk in the system somewhere because my "RO" water is low TDS but has ammonia and my tap has 0 ammonia. So something in the lines or filters is causing it. I thought about just grabbing a cheap RO Buddy off Amazon but figured I'd price new filters first to see which was a better option.


For replacement RO membranes and or the sediment and carbon filters they should be universal, unless you RO MFG made some sort of unique setup to it. If you share the make/model of the filter we might be able to help you find a universal replacement. 

For when you do change out the filters. I read on another post about having all the housings empty of filters and then dropping in some bleach to sanitize them, letting them sit for like 10 minutes and then flushing the heck out of the housings to make sure the bleach is rinsed out. That could help to purge whatever is causing your issues. Then install/flush the new filters. So like put in the first filter inline, run it like 10 minutes, then install the next filter, flush for 10 minutes and so on till they are all reinstalled.


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

Thanks. I just busted the filter apart to check things out and yeah...I think these are just the universal filters with a replaceable DI cartridge. I was expecting some funk but everything seems pretty clean. No film or slime or stanky gunk. The filter is probably 5 years old. I've made maybe 50 gallons of water with it...if that. Problem is...last time I used it...it was good. I ended up taking down the tank and I didn't drain the filter. So it's been sitting in my basement full of water for a couple years probably. I hooked it up a couple weeks ago and let it run...the first few minutes the "RO" water was orange/brown but didn't smell. I ran it until it was clear and also back flushed it for a while and ran RO for a while and tested and got <5 TDS. So I thought I was ok. Then on a whim I check checked ammonia and it showed like .25ppm. I then tested my tap and my Walmart RO to make sure the test was ok and to see if I had ammonia in my tap...both 0. So it's definitely just something going on with the RO system. And yeah...that does sound like a good idea...make sure all the lines are nice and clean. Looks like the filters are pretty cheap. $40 for 2×Sediment, 2×Granular Activated Carbon, 2× Carbon Block, 1× Post Carbon Filter, and 1×Astra-Clear™ 50GPD RO Membrane. That should keep me going a long time at the rate I need to make water...probably only 25-30 gallons a week if I decide to use it as drinking water as well so I don't have to keep filling the water dispenser jugs at Walmart.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Nubster said:


> Thanks. I just busted the filter apart to check things out and yeah...I think these are just the universal filters with a replaceable DI cartridge. I was expecting some funk but everything seems pretty clean. No film or slime or stanky gunk. The filter is probably 5 years old. I've made maybe 50 gallons of water with it...if that. Problem is...last time I used it...it was good. I ended up taking down the tank and I didn't drain the filter. So it's been sitting in my basement full of water for a couple years probably. I hooked it up a couple weeks ago and let it run...the first few minutes the "RO" water was orange/brown but didn't smell. I ran it until it was clear and also back flushed it for a while and ran RO for a while and tested and got <5 TDS. So I thought I was ok. Then on a whim I check checked ammonia and it showed like .25ppm. I then tested my tap and my Walmart RO to make sure the test was ok and to see if I had ammonia in my tap...both 0. So it's definitely just something going on with the RO system. And yeah...that does sound like a good idea...make sure all the lines are nice and clean. Looks like the filters are pretty cheap. $40 for 2×Sediment, 2×Granular Activated Carbon, 2× Carbon Block, 1× Post Carbon Filter, and 1×Astra-Clear™ 50GPD RO Membrane. That should keep me going a long time at the rate I need to make water...probably only 25-30 gallons a week if I decide to use it as drinking water as well so I don't have to keep filling the water dispenser jugs at Walmart.


Sweet, glad they are the universal ones! Just make sure to match your membrane and it's flush valve with the right sized one for the membrane you get. For the granular carbon filters, I personally would skip them. The carbon blocks are much more efficient and 100% of the water goes through it, where the granular stuff can create channels and the water passes right through unfiltered. Also if you aren't using it for drinking water the post carbon filter seems pointless to me. So I would do something like sediment (something like a 20, 5, 1, and if you can find it 0.35) > carbon blocks > RO membrane > water for use.


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

That's the thing...in addition to making tank water...I would like to also make drinking water to make it easier to have water. Right now the cost isn't an issue at only $.37 a gallon...but it's a PITA hauling in 5 gallon jugs to Walmart every 10-14 days to re-fill. If we lived close, no biggie. But we are an hour away so it's not practical to just take one bottle in at a time. So we usually are taking 2-3 in at once to last us 2 weeks of drinking and right now, for the one small tank I have going. But with the new tank at 32 gallons when it's up and running, it will require 50% water changes weekly if I go with EI dosing so changing out 15 gallons of water with the Walmart water just isn't happening...so I need the RO system up and running by end of the month for that tank. Since I'll have the RO running...might as well make drinking water. I suppose I could get a stand alone housing and a couple shutoffs to redirect drinking water through a carbon filter and then bypass it for tank water.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Automating rodi creation with a float valve is a bad idea because of tds creep. You will kill you di canister real quick. I have a fully automated rodi creation system with a booster pump, pressure switch, and solenoids along with an avast marine barrel tender v2.










Those are just 2 5g buckets connected in series so I can have a 10g reservoir. The barrel tender sits on top of the first bucket. It has a solenoid and 2 water level sensors, a high and a low. When the unit senses low water in the bucket is turns on the solenoid which means the pressure decreases which tells the pressure switch attached to my rodi unit to turn on my booster pump and make water. When the buckets get a high water level that I set the barrel tender turns the solenoid in the bucket off which means it stops passing water and the pressure increases. Once the increased pressure hits a threshold the pressure switch on my rodi unit shuts off the booster pump.

The float valve in the bucket is just used a backup in case the solenoid in the barrel tender were to fail which has never happened so far.

I also have an auto flush unit in my rodi which is triggered every time the booster pump turns on. What this does is it flushes the system out for 30 seconds upon initial fireup and also every hour on the hour the system is making water.

I have had this system in place for over a year now without a single failure. Doing this keeps the rodi unit from turning on too often and save my di canister. I also use my rodi unit to make drinking water. I use this john guest 3 way ball valve.
https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/3-way-ball-valve-with-john-guest-1-4-push-connect.html

The middle input is the water coming out of the ro membrane. The it divides it into 2 outputs, one going to the DI canister and the other to a piece of ro tubing that's used to fill up my water cooler jug. If I need to make drinking water I just put the valve to ro output and fill it up. Once I'm done I just flip it to the DI output and because the solenoid on the barrel tender is off it shuts off the system.


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## DigityDog70 (Jan 20, 2017)

Thanks Greggz, Gus6464, I am inspired to improve my RO Buddie 3-Stage 100 Gal to an RODI system that is fully automated and that Avast marine barrel tender V2 looks like a solid solution. See, and I thought I was just needing to figure out the float valve. Also looks like I have some more research in store for me. Cheers, DD


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> Automating rodi creation with a float valve is a bad idea because of tds creep. You will kill you di canister real quick. I have a fully automated rodi creation system with a booster pump, pressure switch, and solenoids along with an avast marine barrel tender v2.
> 
> Those are just 2 5g buckets connected in series so I can have a 10g reservoir. The barrel tender sits on top of the first bucket. It has a solenoid and 2 water level sensors, a high and a low. When the unit senses low water in the bucket is turns on the solenoid which means the pressure decreases which tells the pressure switch attached to my rodi unit to turn on my booster pump and make water. When the buckets get a high water level that I set the barrel tender turns the solenoid in the bucket off which means it stops passing water and the pressure increases. Once the increased pressure hits a threshold the pressure switch on my rodi unit shuts off the booster pump.
> 
> ...





DigityDog70 said:


> Thanks Greggz, Gus6464, I am inspired to improve my RO Buddie 3-Stage 100 Gal to an RODI system that is fully automated and that Avast marine barrel tender V2 looks like a solid solution. See, and I thought I was just needing to figure out the float valve. Also looks like I have some more research in store for me. Cheers, DD
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


I'm with Digity on this, time to get my RO system in a permanent setup! I do like that barrel tender and the auto flush for the RO setup. Just need a storage container for RO and for brine water. Then to make it even more automated, I need to plumb the water to my tank for refilling and a drain line out. Then of course the drinking water line too. LOL Lots to think about.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

For auto water change I use a stenner dual head chemical pump as well.










Same amount of water out as it is coming in. Not as key in a freshwater tank but critical in a saltwater tank.


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## DigityDog70 (Jan 20, 2017)

Alright... here we go... 

the new system for my 2.5 Nano tank...

I figured we need a little comedy relief after reading this thread, getting very inspired, admitedly, I had been reading for a few hours and lost track of time and realized I still have some more research to do and will need to spend a few bucks more, was thinking, ahh what's a a few more bucks for a hobby that I love. 

Anyhow, I ended up litterally on RODI Systems - Water Treatment Products and Expertise and I don't know, I needed a laugh, so please pardon my feeble attempt at humor as this is a very cool thread which I have already gone over at least three times and will end up reading some more. No disrespect of course OP.... but here's my new system for my 2.5Gal Nano. All feedback is appreciated and if you see anything that you feel I need to beef up or augment, please... like I said, all feedback is welcome 

Cheers, 
DD

And for the Super Ultra Nerds, yes, I am jus joking.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

DigityDog70 said:


> Alright... here we go...
> 
> the new system for my 2.5 Nano tank...
> 
> ...


Only problem I see is no RO storage container! Need like a 5000g tank for that setup! [emoji23] 

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