# Tips for the Low-tech Big Tank?



## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

Cindy, thanks for posting this. After seeing how my lo-tech 5 gallon is doing. I'm actually thinking of down grading my 125. 
Big question for me, what is the optimal light level. I can do a 2 X 96 but would that still be high light? 
You might be better off with a 3 X 55 light set. 

Not related to lo-tech, but If you build your own stand, watch the height. I'm 5'11" with a long torso, and still have some issues reaching the back wall of my tank with 3" substrate.

HTH


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## RoseHawke (Mar 10, 2004)

tazcrash69 said:


> "...Not related to lo-tech, but If you build your own stand, watch the height. I'm 5'11" with a long torso, and still have some issues reaching the back wall of my tank with 3" substrate..."


Already taken into account . I'm only 5'4 and I have to stand on a stepstool to do just about *any*thing to my 55. Which would be another plus for low-tech, I don't have to make it tall enough to store a CO2 cannister under it as long as the filters will fit.


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## Shakey (Dec 7, 2003)

For the most part I would say there is really no difference between you smaller tank and the future larger one. All said the game will be the same just on a larger scale. Basically the major change will be cost, as it will take 12.5 times more plants to create the same plant biomass ratio, 12.5 times more fish/inverts to create the bio load, ect..

On the bright side it should offer you a lot more stability, water temp should change much slower, as well as water parameters.

The downside is if your a percentage based water changer, you got more water to change.

On the off-topic tip, besides stand height, if its any way possible consider placing it so you can get all the way around the tank. With smaller tanks I can deal with lesser access, but anything 75gal or larger I highly prefer to be able to get complete around the tank makes maintenance so much less frustrating.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

tazcrash69 said:


> Big question for me, what is the optimal light level. I can do a 2 X 96 but would that still be high light?
> You might be better off with a 3 X 55 light set.


For low light tanks, I suggest looking into linear fluorescent lamps incl T5's.
PC bulbs deliver high intensity in a compact size, good for high light setups, not so good for low light, since you will get areas of high intensity and dark sides, corners, backs and fronts.

For example, for a 125 (6ft long) I would choose 3ft T5HO bulbs, 6 of them, which would give you about 1.8 W/gal.

_________ _________
_________ _________
_________ _________

and that's how I would arrange them in the fixture.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

Given your experience with the low tech method, you should really focus a lot of the layout and scaping for this tank.

It can be done very well and once grown in some, will look nice.

The water changes?
You don't need no stinking water changes! That's the cool thing about non 
CO2 low light tanks, plants grow, but slowly.......

Top off only.

Some good wood/rock layouts, then add the java ferns on these, place anubias under that, ansd the stem plants in the highest light regions.
Crypts make good borders seperating the the plant groups.

I've done very well with the ADA AS in the non CO2 tank, less messy and easier to prune etc and better growth of picky plants.

I do add some GH booster, TMG, PO4/KNO3 etc once a week(about 1/2 the volume dose one time what you'd normally 3x a week w CO2/higher light) have plenty of algae eaters, pack the tank from day one, get the filter mature/add mulm etc.

I'd add a good fish load with lots of small fish (this will make the tank look bigger as well as having a nice big school is more impressive than a few big ones, and you can add more new fish etc) and feed at least daily.

Give the scape some thought.


Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## swannee (May 22, 2005)

RoseHawke said:


> Already taken into account . I'm only 5'4 and I have to stand on a stepstool to do just about *any*thing to my 55. Which would be another plus for low-tech, I don't have to make it tall enough to store a CO2 cannister under it as long as the filters will fit.


If you do the Diana Walstad "El Natural" thing you don't even have to worry about filters fitting all you need is a power head or two for a little water movement.

I did one last year and ended up in the hospital for 4 months, so it never got a water change, and the Panda corys where breeding like wild fire (6 little squirts in that 4 month period) And had little or no algae to speak of

the tank went from this










to this in 4 months


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## RoseHawke (Mar 10, 2004)

Wasserpest said:


> For low light tanks, I suggest looking into linear fluorescent lamps incl T5's.
> PC bulbs deliver high intensity in a compact size, good for high light setups, not so good for low light, since you will get areas of high intensity and dark sides, corners, backs and fronts.
> 
> For example, for a 125 (6ft long) I would choose 3ft T5HO bulbs, 6 of them, which would give you about 1.8 W/gal.
> ...


Well, I've been thinking about this and nosing around a bit this morning. The 3' T5HO bulbs looks like a good deal, so I visited the Fulham site to look at ballasts. The Workhorse wiring instructions all say "With linear lamps use a starting aid." I hazily understand what this is and how it works, but how the heck is that going to be achieved with bulbs mounted in a wooden hood? Put them in grounded metal reflectors? Or is there another solution that I'm not finding :help: ?


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Yeah I think that means you should mount the bulb close to a grounded metal strip (reflector?!) for reliable starting.

That said, I have not grounded my reflectors (but do use GFCI protection), and the bulbs start reliably anyway.


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## RoseHawke (Mar 10, 2004)

Hmmm. Well, I s'pose I could line the interior of the hood with aluminum flashing. That would serve the dual purpose of a grounding surface (just to be sure) and supplying some reflectivity.


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