# Fertilizers



## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

I use Flourish and flourish Iron. I have a heavily planted 75 gal tank. I dose approx a teaspoon of each daily thru an Ehiem Liquidoser. It works but I still can't detect the iron level with my test kit but I'm afraid to add more for fear of adding to much iron to the tank. I also have a feeling that the flourish and flourish iron are increasing my water hardness over time. Water changes seem to be the only way to keep the tank in check. 
I also add jobes plant sticks for large indoor plants. I determine when to add those by testing my nitrate levels once every 2 weeks or so. When nitrates are between 10-5 ppm, I leave it alone. when they reach 0, I add 2-3 sticks, broken in half and placed near the base of the root feeders.

I'm not exactly sure if what I'm doing is correct. My plants look good. I wish I could get my iron levels consistently at 0.1 ppm. But I'm not sure if the test is reading all the forms iron can take. I would like to try home made PMDD. 

If I could change something about my regimen it would be a way to determine that what I'm doing is optimum. I don't know if that exists.:bounce:


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## cousin it (Nov 1, 2002)

I use Dennerle E15 iron supplement, V30, Pflanzengold 7, A1.
on the the E15 and V30 are dosed 15 days apart, the Pflanzengold 7 is dosed every 7 days and the A1 is dosed on a daily basis ( I intend to get a dupla doser to add this one)
I add deponit clay balls to the substrate to help supplement the laterite mix which is about 6-7 years old now.
I have only recently switched to using this system and I am very pleased with the results so far.


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

This is a good thread since I haven't decided what to use yet! Oh, by the way, what does PMDD mean?

-Tim


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

PMDD at The Krib

This is a very interesting topic as there are so many different fert's available and so many different needs in a tank.
*My Fert's...*
30 Gallon Tank
Flourish - 1 mL (every 3rd day)
Flourish Potassium - 3 mL ( same day )
I have not added Iron for the same reasons as Lemay ,fear and inconsistant tests ! I do however read small amounts of iron in my tests so I do not wish to add any. 
I read a great article about Plant Growth Limiting Factors and the reasons given were of lack of Potassium first and Iron second... any truth to it I dont know.
However since adding Potassium ( 2 weeks now ) my plants appear to be " standing taller " in the tank. Growth wasnt really a problem _BUT_ as they grew they would appear lazy and stems would sag. Now they just stand tall and proud... !
Was the Potassium ? Dunno... :hehe: but it is the only thing I have changed over last couple of weeks. Potassium tests are very expensive and I am cheap !

Since I have a UGF in tank using any sustrate ferts is out of the question... I tried Jobes but they clouded out my water so I removed them. My Amazons grow nicely despite only " liquid ferts " being used...and I believe that the UGF is pulling fish waste in to root systems to help...

*What would I change... ?*
So far nothing other then i want a larger tank !! :hehe: I might try adding very small doses of Iron as it is also a " limiting growth factor "

My plants all grow nicely , they pearl , and I trim weekly in my tank so I guess Im on the right track , ( I think ) :hehe:


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## lanstar (Nov 29, 2002)

I've been using the Dupla stuff... Duplaplant with water changes and Duplaplant 24 daily (1 drop/10 gallons).

However, recently my nitrates have fallen to zero and plant growth is suffering. I guess I don't have enough fish.  However, I have several young fish that will grow up and "produce" more as they do. So I don't want to add still more fish.

I've ordered some Yamato Green and Yamato Green-N (+ nitrate). It hasn't arrived but when it does, I'll *very carefully* add some and give you all a report.

I've also heard that Morton "No-Salt" is a good source of supplimental potassium. I checked and while "No-Salt" is mostly potassium chloride, there are other ingredients that make me afraid of it. 

I found a good link for calculating how much of several different additives one would need to achieve a particular concentration in ppm.

The site is: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/art_plant_dosage_calc.htm

Tim


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## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

Go ahead and use the no-salt. its fine. I was concerned also and asked a few experts and they told me its no problem. Most of them use potassium sulfate (k2so4) but its hard to get. You have to get it from a hydroponics store. The only ones I know of are online. Eventually I'm going to go the hydroponics route for all my fertilization but I'm still learning so for now its trial and error.

BTW, Did you know that potassium is the most deficient nutrient in most planted aquariums?

That little fact surprised me and the reason is it does not get put into the tank from feeding the fish and plant ferts don't supply much either.:fish1:


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

I have started adding small amounts of _Flourish Iron_.
Before changing to the sand/flourite substrate I would get tiny readings of iron... now even though Im using straight _Flourish_ I am now reading 0 Iron in my water !
Is the sand now somehow changing this because I have not changed anything else and my polysperma is developing small holes in leaves. At first I thought soemthing was putting it into there bellies but again nothing new has been added in the way of fish and I never had this happen before...
I was thinking Iron deficiency so i am trying this...

Any ideas on these holes ?


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## Jim Miller (Dec 24, 2002)

The symptom chart I use suggests potassium deficiency although other trace deficiencies can cause it as well. Potassium supposedly gets used pretty quick in a high light environment.


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## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

I was getting small holes in my crypt wendtii and my red rubin sword. I just started adding potassium last week in the potassium chloride form. Its too early to tell if that was the problem but my plants are greener and seem firmer. 

Buck: as far as iron is concerned, iron falls out of solution very rapidly. I think the reason you were getting any readings before was because your UGF was kicking it back up into the water column. Your plants just went thru a traumatic experience with the teardown and rebuild, give them a chance to plant some roots and get settled into thier new home.

The reccomended potasium concentration in a planted tank is 20ppm. Assuming the water in your 55 is 0 ppm, you would need to add a little over 1 1/2 teaspoons of no-salt (potassium chloride) to get it to 20 ppm. Your plants will probably use at least 1ppm per day, probably more. They say its almost impossible to overdose on potassium. When you do a 1/3 water change just add 1/2 teaspoon of no-salt and you should be good to go.

I just ordered a Phosphate test kit this week. I already have a Nitate kit and I just ordered some Plantex CSM for trace minerals. In the next couple of weeks I plan on doing lots of water testing and developing a specific dosing regimen for my tank.

Lets keep this discussion going. This is where I'm at in my planted tank evolution and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about it and share what I'm learning.

Marcel


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## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

Heres a link to a good article with a calculator for dosing different nutrients and reccomended parameters.


Chucks Pages


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

Flourish 2ml daily
Flourish Iron 5ml daily
Flourish Potassium 5ml daily
Tetra Black Water Extract ( added after every water change)

Flourish Tabs and Jobes Plant Spikes 14-3-7 in substrate...

All is in check .... great growth , minimal algae 

Not to mention this great Topic was getting buried !


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## fishman250 (Feb 2, 2003)

Well so far i`m up to 40 ml of iron, added at two hour interviles test after every 2 hours 0 ppm of iron, if i test after i put in 10ml i get a reading of .1ppm thats good but then check it after 2 hours 0ppm. my po4 is 0 i`m up to 9ml of po4 my reading is still 0 i do the po4 the same way as the iron. i have 2 doser both have 60ml of flourish and 5ml of potassium i`ve added 6ml of nitrogen per the bottle and 5ml of trace 2 times a week per the bottle. my plants seam to love what i`m doing the steams seem to be thicker not so leggey. BUT my water is starting to get a little cloudy my fish seem to be a little more at the top of the tank but my water is fine ph6.8, kh 5, gh 9, nitrite 0, nitrate 10-20 ppm, o2 8 mg/l so i think i`m gonning back off of everything for a day or two to let the water clear up a little but i`m goning keep the doser going and i might give it 10 ml of iron a day so there will be some in there but to try to get a 125 with ALOT of plants up to .1 of iron is a bit much + i dont like my water that cloudy and i want my fish back to the way they were.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

vince,

Lay off the heavy iron dosing. It can kill your fish. You add what you need to add a couple three times a week. Throw away the Iron test as they are next to worthless anyway.

Buck,

When you empty that bottle of Flourish Potassium you might want to pick up some K2SO4. It's a lot cheaper. And you are not dosing near enough of the Flourish product anyway.


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## fishman250 (Feb 2, 2003)

ya thats what i dont want to do. i`m done with trying to get the iron level up so today i`m going to add nothing at all, will the plants mop up everything that in there or should i do a little water change.


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## GulfCoastAquarian (Jul 30, 2002)

Plantex CSM (2ml / twice a week)
Potassium Chloride (1 tsp Water Softener per week)
KNO3 as needed to maintain 5-10ppm NO3
Jobe's Sticks (broken into thirds, one each near large Sword and dwarf chain swords)

Swords still show characteristic K deficiency. 1 tsp KCl a week seems it should be enough, though. I'm hesitant to increase that dosage.


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

I'm going to start a PMDD soon, as soon as my ferts get here! According to what I know, you are supposed to test for iron, and if the iron level is good, then the other nutrients should fall into place.. But Rex said the iron test is worthless? I'm confused...

-Tim


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## fishman250 (Feb 2, 2003)

ya me too. my tank looks back to normal but holly cow are my plants big now in two days of going nuts with ferts but i`m going to slow way down on the ferts my fish didn`t like it so i`m going to do it as the bottle says and no more.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Tom Barr has discussed the use of iron test kits on the APD and over at Aqua Botanic. I respect Tom a lot. And due to many factors at work he feels that iron test kits are worthless. You could have a test kit show no organic iron in the tank but meanwhile your substrate is full of inorganic iron that is constantly being reduced to organic iron and back again. So anymore I just dose my tank to where it should be and forget about it.


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## fishman250 (Feb 2, 2003)

how do you know where it should be if you don`t have a test kit?


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## aquaphish (Dec 20, 2002)

I thought that I would add to this subject.

I have a 40 gal tank and use Kent Marine line of fertilizers: Freshwater Plant Supplement; Freshwater Essential and Pro-Plant. Freswater Plant is basically a 
Fe supplement with other Micronutrients and limited amount of Potassium. I would check the Fe level, which I keep at around .25 mg/l. When it gets low I add the Freshwater Plant and also add equal amounts of the Pro-Plant and Freshwater Essential.

I have very good results with these products. Having a really bad problem with various algae I realized by using R/O water I need to replace the trace elements. When I started to use the Freshwater Essential which is a trace mineral supplement I started to see a reduction in the growth of beard algae within one week. And in just about 3-4 weeks my algae problems were all gone. 

Now about 2.5 months since I started to use these products I have not seen any type of algae, with the exception of a little bity of green spot algae on the anubia nana's.

The plants grow very fast and need to be trimmed almost every week!!! The Rotala Rotundifolia needs the most trimming. And I have some Bacopa Caroliniana that I trim back to about 3" and it will reach the top of the 18" tank in just 3 weeks. Not to mention My ever wondering Hydrocotyle Leucocephala. My Hydrophilia Difformis had a slow start but is now about 6" tall and starting to grow even faster. I just reciently added some unknown cripts. I had to remove about 35 Vallisneria Spiralis which were runners from just the 4 original plants. In place of those plants I have just started some micro swords.

THE END!!!


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Look at it this way. You can add iron to your desired level and then test in a couple of hours. Many times you will not detect any iron. So you add more. In a couple of hours no iron. Repeat as long as you want. Some tanks you could dose the recommended dose every couple of hours and you would never see any iron on the test. What is happening is something in the tank is binding up the iron and many times it's precipitating out and ending up in the substrate where it once again becomes available to the plants. Use your eyes and not the test kit. Are your plants healthy? Are the red plants red? If so you are doing fine.


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## Buck (Oct 13, 2002)

Allready got the K2SO4 Rex... 
still got 300ml of the Flourish potassium left though... I will miss it but not the price ... :hehe:

I disagree on the Fe testing...
You are assuming that all tanks are created equal.
You have to establish a dosing baseline to go by and the "recommended dosing" dont take into consideration the amount of lighting , CO2 , substrate or the density of your planting. 
The more demands put on the plants... the more the plants will use. Anyone at or over the 3wpg range is definately making their plants extra hungry. They will only use what they need and you need to test to find that amount out. You test to find the "upper limit" , not the lower. 

While I agree you can never hold a readable Fe for long in a densely planted tank , you still need to find out how big a daily dose needs to satisfy the plants demands. 
I have seen these stages very well in my 30 gallon through testing over the last few months. The more growth , the more Fe they are consuming.
As far as fish health...
if _you_ cannot read a presence of Fe in your water column then the _fish_ cant read it either and will be fine... The iron you are adding to the water column will doubfully ever "buildup" in the substrate of a heavily planted tank. The plants will make sure of that.
So in part I agree with your "binding theory"
but its the plants that are binding it. 

Like you said though... 
it dont take long to know what you need to add and you can stop the testing... but without the *initial* testing you will never know what that amount is.


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## aquaphish (Dec 20, 2002)

Rex when you mention "the FE is binding" what do you mean? Are you saying it is converting to a "Free Iron" and no longer considered a "Chelated Iron"? Even if this is what you believe is happenning there are test kits that will test for both "Free Iron" and "Chelated Iron". Free Iron is the type of iron that is not soluble and can not be used up by the plants. It's like getting a bunch of nails and buring them in your substrate. The plants can not use this iron. Chelated Iron is soluble and can be used by the plants.

I would think if you would dose with Chelated Iron you should be able to test and get a reading if the test kit is good and not contaminated or expired.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I dose both standard Chelated Iron and Seachem's Iron. In both cases I can dose and then not have any iron test at all. Search the APD archives on this subject and you will find that Tom Barr explains it all. What happens is the iron precipitates out of the water and falls into the substrate. It may not happen in every tank, but it happens in most tanks.


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## d28 boy (Feb 14, 2003)

greetings,
i am working on my fertilizing regimen and would like some input!
stats:
55 gal tank
4 wpg power compacts
pressurized co2
kh=5
ph=approx. 7.25
15-20% weekly water changes
med. planted tank(at this point)
flourish tabs for swords
flourish k=5ml/week with water change
flourish fe=5ml/week with water change

plants and fish are healthy, so is green hair algae. my sword has some visible pearling, but none of the other plants(pennywort, anubias,val). from what i have read, it seems i am not dosing enough ferts for my light levels and co2. i am looking for a conservative starting point for my set up using the above mentioned products. thanks in advance for any help.


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## kor4ever (Feb 26, 2003)

I dose 2ml Flourish Potassium, 2 ml Flourish Excel, 2.5ml Leaf Zone, .5ml Flourish trace daily. Still working out on the nutrient levels, but my plants pearl like crazy and I haven't got increased algae growth, so I think this is pretty good.


Felix


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## lanstar (Nov 29, 2002)

Since my previous post in this thread, I've changed what I'm doing and am quite pleased with the results. So I thought I'd share what I've tried.

Since tank sizes vary, I did the math and came up with amounts of the various ingredients on a per-gallon-per-week basis. This is based on the actual number of gallons of water in the tank, not the tank's "rated" size. For stuff given in grams, 5.6 grams is about a teaspoon.

Lighting in this tank is 4.7 WPG (DULUX L PC Bulbs). CO2 is 40 ppm. Fish load is light to moderate. Plant load is heavy. Substrate is gravel with Tetra Initial Sticks throughout and some added laterite in a few places. 

"Off the Shelf" commercial products description:

Briefly, Yamato Green-N (regular Yamato Green + Nitrate) contains Magnesium Sulfate, Chelated Iron, Potassium Sulfate, Potassium Nitrate, Manganese, Boric Acid, HEDTA, Thiamine HCL, Auxin growth hormone, and a trace of copper.

Duplaplant-24 is essentially PMDD and is richer in Iron than the Yamato-N.

Flourish Iron - Chelated Fe.

Dosings:

Yamato Green-N - 1ml/gallon/week - divide by 7 and dose daily

Duplaplant 24 - .6ml/gallon/week - divide by 7 and dose daily

Flourish Iron - .3ml/gallon/week - divide by 2 and dose twice a week (this is being watched and may be altered or eliminated if/when the plants saturate themselves with Fe since both Yamato and Dupla-24 also contain iron).

Potassium Chloride (KCl) - .15 grams/gallon/week - divide by 2 and dose twice a week (its hard to overdose K and some plants were showing signs of K deficiency - but not now)

Phosphate - KH2PO4 - .002 grams/gallon/week - divide by 2 and dose twice a week - a very tiny amount. May be eliminated as fish grow or more are added.

Potassium Nitrate - added as needed at .025 grams/gallon if Nitrate falls below 5 ppm. (About once every 2 weeks so far.) 

Plus these same amounts for every gallon of water changed at every partial water change.

Additionally, some small pieces of Jobes Palm & Fern sticks buried near some of the larger swords.

The plant dosage calculator page that has been referred to at least twice in this thread was VERY helpful. 

(Be warned that light, CO2 and/or fish load will significantly impact nutrient requirements. - So your results may vary.  ) In some cases, the quantities listed above are more than double the recommended initial starting places for fert dosing.

Take care...

Tim


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## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

D28; 
At a kh of 5 and ph of 7.2 your co2 levels are just under 9ppm which is not enough at your lightinting levels. You should shoot for a level of 20-30ppm to get your plants kicking into high gear. You also need to increase the plant load in you tank, more plants=more competition for nutrients=less algae. 
Once you get all that straightened out you're gonna have to start dosing nitrates,phosphates, and regular flourish or some other type of micronutrient fertilizer.
You got a lot of light there and I'll bet your plants are starving.

Marcel


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## d28 boy (Feb 14, 2003)

thanks Marcel, I will work on this and repost. btw, in your opinion, is a canister filter enough of a co2 diffuser, or should i get a reactor of some sort?
-Brian


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## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

If the fluval is working for you, leave it alone. I have a hunch that once you start increasing your co2 the Fluval might get airlocked or start burping. If that happens you'll want to use a reactor. You can build an inline reactor cheaply. Check out the link:http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=4006090712&f=8006023812&m=9556098022

Marcel


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## corvus (Dec 23, 2002)

I'm lazy, never test anything  

Jobes palm tree sticks once a month for the root feeders, 

1/2 the reccomended dose of Leaf Zone on a weekly basis. I found that the full dose made my plants grow at an insane rate, don't want to prune every 2 weeks.

No algae problems at this point (I went through plenty the first 2 months after set up), and everything thrives except my Madagascar Lace, and I think that is a temperature issue.


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## doooog (Mar 17, 2003)

people say: more plants = more competition = less algae.

Then how in the He|| do i have hair algae growing out my ears in my tank???

My tank (55 gal) is immensly planted. hundreds of plants. filled to the hilt. pH of 7.2 hardness of 9 deg ~ CO2 within acceptable range, about 3.5 wpg. What is going on here??? i must admit i did recently add the CO2 (pressurized) but there is no difference in the algae content of my tank! I even bought a flag fish to help with this (the LFS only had one left and they cost like 6 bucks (kinda high for my college budget)) and there is a minimal change. I am getting VERY frustrated (i have never had a problem with hair algae like this before)

ANY help/advice will be accepted with open arms and much thanks

~Doug


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

I had an insance amount at first too, but it is frustrating. The flag fish should make a difference. I put one in a 75 gallon tank with more hair algae than you can imagine and it was gone withing 2 weeks, so it makes a difference. Is it possible that since you have so many plants they are "suffocating" each other by blocking out light etc... and not allowing themselves to compete with the algae? Just a thought.

-Tim


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## doooog (Mar 17, 2003)

i doubt that they are inhibiting one another, honestly you'ld just have to see my tank. But its a thought, i trim back regularly too, don't let it get too overgrown.

Thanks

~Doug


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Hmmm, if you trim, are the plants growing a lot? If they are growing a lot, then you might have too much light, or if you fertilize the substrate, make sure your ferts are deep enough. This can be a major cause.

-Tim


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## kor4ever (Feb 26, 2003)

Here is a thread I've read that explains a bit about "outcompeting," I especially think Tom Barr's reply is especially informative.

Felix

http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop....06090712&m=8866028832&r=6146001932#6146001932


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

since rex is so gung ho on the plantex csm, i've been trying to find some. perhaps someone could clue me in as to where i could obtain this product in canada? and while i'm asking, is it the consensus that the product without boron added is perferred? or does it matter?

btw the Plantex CSM+B (with boron) product contains:

Fe 6.53%
Mn 1.87%
Mg 1.40%
Zn 0.37%
Cu 0.09%
Mo 0.05%
B 1.18%

thanks!


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## m.lemay (Jul 28, 2002)

I use plantex and I got it from Rex. Plantex doesn't contain boron and must be added to the mix in the form of boric acid (roach killer). Rex added the boron to the plantex before he sent it out. I think plantex is made by a canadien company if memory serves me correctly. It is very difficult to find here in the states.


Marcel


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Any decent dope growers supply store in Canada should have Plantex. The biggest problem is it comes in 5 lb buckets. I know that www.hydroponics.com sells it in smaller amounts.


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

thanks, lads.

rex, i emailed homegrown some time ago. they denied carrying plantex csm. what's listed on their website is a chelated trace element mix with the following:

7% Fe, 1.3% B, 2% Mn, 0.06% Mo, 0.4% Zn, 0.1% Cu, EDTA, DTPA.

i note that these proportions are very similar to those that i already posted in this thread.

i assume this is very similar to what you have been using and selling, rex. with perhaps the exception that you have to add your own boron to the mix (this product already has it added). 

they referred me to a local hydroponics distributor. i must be patient. the "guy who looks after that department" is never in, or has "just stepped out for a bit". he also is slow to check his email. now, rex, why do you suppose he "just stepped out for a bit"? :wink: :lol: :lol: 

if anyone has anything to add regarding the suitability of these elements in such a proportion i would be most interested. as soon as i hear back from the local store i will post what i have found out, in case someone else may be looking.

regards.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

What hydroponics.com sells may not be Plantex but it's so close as to be the same.


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

ok so i headed over to the hydroponics store today.

steve's hydroponics
[email protected]
www.hydroponics.com (web site for parent company)
902-865-7764

they sold me a 150 gram package of chelated trace element mix, along with some k2so4 and kno3 for $15 canadian.

as i stated the mix contains 7% Fe, 1.3% B, 2% Mn, 0.06% Mo, 0.4% Zn, 0.1% Cu.

the company (steve's) is a local distributor for homegrown hydroponics. i'm not sure if homegrown hydroponics will ship to the us. so i included the phone # of the local outlet; the guy there said he would mail to the states if anyone is interested. i'm not sure what he would charge for shipping.


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## Pisces (Nov 30, 2003)

m.lemay said:


> What fertilizer(s) do you use?
> Flourish/flourish Iron/Flourish tabs
> 
> 
> ...


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## Aftica (Nov 26, 2003)

jart said:


> they sold me a 150 gram package of chelated trace element mix, along with some k2so4 and kno3 for $15 canadian.


Hey! How much milage did you get out of that amount that you bought Jart? (how long did it last etc..) and at what dosings were you using etc...


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

ummm... after 124 posts i suppose i should be able to answer that question... but the thing is, i STILL am not up and running with the tank yet (several postponements along the way, looong story). i still am getting everything assembled. perhaps rex or marcel can advise you how long this amount would last in a 45 gallon (about 500g each of kno3 and k2po4 and 150g of trace mix). of course it would just be a guesstimate, but i would presume a few months.

now today i was planning to go over to the ups terminal to pick up my new xp3 :evil: :evil: but we are in the middle of a 70 cm onslaught of precipitation.


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## Aftica (Nov 26, 2003)

LoL - your worse than me - I only just finished the hood... the flourite still in the bags :roll: 

I was excited that you could buy those supplies locally - I should have no trouble then ordering them thom via mailorder here since your fairly close geographically etc..

I am sure your right - Ill wait for rex or marcel to give an indication (hint - hint)  for a 77 gallon...

That 70cm in rain or snow this time around Jart?

Dru


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

Aftica said:


> That 70cm in rain or snow this time around Jart?


both. now... must... shovel...slush...

my girlfriend works in the coronary care unit and it should be a busy night for her...

aftika check your pm.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

150 grams of trace will last a long time. I was selling pounds of Plantex CSM a while back. I got half a pound about a year ago and still have most of it. As for the KNO3 I go though less than a pound a year with a total of ~150 gallons of planted tanks. The K2SO4 I go though about a pound every 4-5 months or so.


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## Aftica (Nov 26, 2003)

Thanks Rex - that gives me a quick mental picture / guesstimate of quantities to order so that I dont end up with a 6 year supply and throwing a pile of it away


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