# DIY C02 Reactor



## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Hello all,

Here is some photos of my DIY C02 reactor for my tank.... Let me know what you think.

Water flows in the top(you can see the threaded hole that I will install the C02 line into... Water runs through reactor filled with Bio-balls and exits at bottom back to tank.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Here are a few more. Total costs @$25

Jason


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

thanks for posting this. i have a question:

*what size barb are you going to use to input the co2 line? *the smallest one i could find that would fit into a design such as this is 1/4" (i think). 

i am planning on running standard co2 airline tubing from my bubble counter to my reactor; obviously this isn't going to fit onto a such a large barb. thus, i think i am going to simply drill a hole and input the tubing directly, either with an airline connector thingy (a la ghori from aquabotanic) or without (a la rex).


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Jart,

Not sure yet. I really havent started to look for that particular part. If I cant find a threaded nipple that fits the 3/16 airline tubing and will thread into my reactor, I will either make an adapter or put a plug in that hole and drill it to fit a nipple I can find....

I will post some pics of the end result

Jason


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## malkore (Nov 3, 2003)

you could just glue in a piece of rigid airline tubing, then hookup the CO2 line to that, maybe use a little zip-tie to ensure it won't slip off.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Gregg,

Good point....


Jason


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

wellbiz said:


> If I cant find a threaded nipple that fits the 3/16 airline tubing and will thread into my reactor, I will either make an adapter or put a plug in that hole and drill it to fit a nipple I can find....


well i was also thinking today that after Christmas i will go to the home brew store. they would probably have bigger co2 tubing there that would fit the 1/4" barb. it shouldn't be a problem to modify my bubble counter design to accomodate the larger tubing.

i guess i have to go back to the specialty plastics store as well :evil: . my rena xp3 _finally_ arrived on the weekend. the 5/8" tubing that comes with it fits the 1/2" barbs on my reactor a liitle too loosely. i'll replace them with 3/4" barbs instead, then heat the tubing/use some vaseline to get the 5/8" tubing to fit. as roger miller said on the aquabotanic forum a while ago, it's best to have the barbs a size too big than a size too small. :wink: 

thanks for the comment malkore. your idea would be another alternative to the airline connector idea shown here:

http://aquabotanicwetthumb.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=4006090712&f=8006023812&m=9556098022

and malkore, re your comment about the co2 tubing slipping off... wouldn't _that_ be a nice Christmas present to wake up to :lol: 

season's greetings all,

jart


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Jart,

I will let you know when I figure out what I am going to use... Should know by the end of the week..

Jason


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## E. Simpson (Oct 18, 2003)

I'm looking at your picture and the inlets you have.Is the water input on the side with the 2 inlets or the other side that has only 1?Or is it the other way around?

Reason I'm asking is because say your water comes in on the side with 2 inlets.I'll assume the 2nd inlet is going to be for your co2 line.I think you will have a problem here because the idea is that the co2 bubbles need to go against the flow of water so that they suspend long enough to dissolve.The way I see your design here the co2 bubbles will be swept up with the water flow and taken right though the tube.

If you take alook at the diy version that gulfcoast.. has on his site you'll see what I mean.His works really well because it has an inside tube that brings the water back up and causes the co2 to be caught within the main chamber.

but then again maybe I'm totally missing your design here and am wrong
on how it will work.

Ernie


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## E. Simpson (Oct 18, 2003)

Just thought of another thing.You could epoxy a check valve in that hole for attaching your co2 line.I did mine that way over a year ago and it's never leaked.


Ernie


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Ernie,

The reactor will sit with the 90degree fitting as the top(or as you described the two inlets). This is also where the water will come in as well as the C02. The water will then travel down through the tube/bioballs to the bottom where it will then exit to the tank. My reasoning for this design is based off of James Hoftiexer's design that I modified for my setup: http://www.hoftiezer.net/personal/aquaria/

Jason


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## E. Simpson (Oct 18, 2003)

OK I looked again and I was wrong.I was picturing it standing the other way which would have made the co2 float in the same direction as the water flow.Actually the more I look at it the more I like it.

Wish I knew where to get some of that clear pvc.It looks good that way IMO.


Ernie


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## SCMurphy (Oct 21, 2003)

E. Simpson said:


> Wish I knew where to get some of that clear pvc.It looks good that way IMO.
> 
> Ernie


You asked :wink: 

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/ca...egory_name=Clear+PVC+Pipe+and+Fittings&Page=1


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

i am wondering if some sort of a check valve should be used between the reactor and bubble counter. of course, there usually is sufficient pressure present in the (pressurized) co2 line to prevent water from getting into the regulator, correct?

but, (since regulators are far more expensive than check valves ), if people feel that a check valve should be used, i was wondering if anyone has recommendations on what type of valve would be preferred?


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Jart,

I plan on using a good check valve, mounted as close to the reactor as possible. C02 tubbing might be small, but I dont like wet carpet :x 

If the tank dumps or developes a leak somewhere, I dont want to have to worry about a water leak...

Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

jart said:


> wellbiz said:
> 
> 
> > If I cant find a threaded nipple that fits the 3/16 airline tubing and will thread into my reactor, I will either make an adapter or put a plug in that hole and drill it to fit a nipple I can find....
> ...


Jart,

Went to the local Home Depot on saturday, found a brass adaptor and brass connector that has a 3/16" barb. Works great... I will post some pics soon....

Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Jart, 

Here is a pic...


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Brass?? I hope this doesn't come into contact with the water, or it could be "Goodbye Shrimps". I read that brass contains copper, which isn't good to have in your water, unless you want to kill snails.

I just built two surprisingly similar reactors :mrgreen: and I simply glued the checkvalve into a hole drilled into the upper elbow, like you have the brass thing. Not running yet, glue still smelly...


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I just drilled an 11/64th hole and pulled the tubing through. Nice tight seal.


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## Scorpion (Oct 10, 2003)

Wellbiz, can you get a closer pic of that brass fitting?


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Wasserpest said:


> Brass?? I hope this doesn't come into contact with the water, or it could be "Goodbye Shrimps". I read that brass contains copper, which isn't good to have in your water, unless you want to kill snails.
> 
> I just built two surprisingly similar reactors :mrgreen: and I simply glued the checkvalve into a hole drilled into the upper elbow, like you have the brass thing. Not running yet, glue still smelly...


I was waiting for that... hehehehe...I am still on the lookout for a PCV or plastic fitting... Water contact on this fitting is so minimal that I dont think my shrimp have anything to worry about. 

Of course I will monitor the tank parameters and fish/shrimp/snail health to see what happens. Yes brass does contain copper. Just not enough surface area to cause an issue IMO... Seeing how the water that I fill the tank with runs through hundereds of feet if not miles of copper pipe before it comes out of my tap, as I am sure most peoples do I dont think my little fitting is a issue  ..... But I agree it is worth monitoring... 

Thanks wasser as always.
Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Scorpion said:


> Wellbiz, can you get a closer pic of that brass fitting?


Ask and ye shall recieve.... The brass nipple screws into the brass adaptor which screws into the PVC elbow... Yes, you are seeing a little aquarium silicone on the connection for the C02 tubing, as a little percausion to prevent leaks... Not that it is going anywhere. I had trial fit everything before final assembly and had to cut that C02 tubing off to get it apart... Tight fit!!!! :shock: 


Jason


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## Scorpion (Oct 10, 2003)

Cool. I just needed to get a clearer picture of it before I went out looking for one...

Did you check with www.USPlastic.com?


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Scorpion said:


> Cool. I just needed to get a clearer picture of it before I went out looking for one...
> 
> Did you check with www.USPlastic.com?


Just there website, I suppose I could call or email them. 3/16 fittings are just hard to come by, not to mention I settled on brass for the increased strength and the local Home Depot had them in stock  . I was worried something that small in plastic might not be strong enough... But I am not an engineer, so I am probably just paranoid :x 

Jason


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## Scorpion (Oct 10, 2003)

If I come accross some, I'll let ya know. Happy 2004-It's income tax time!


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

I have never built a reactor, so I am no expert at all. has anyone considered using a Venturi valve?

http://www.thatpetplace.com/MainPro...venturi&SKW=&EDP=6789&T1=F27+0064+0171&PgNo=1

Mike


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

One purpose of DIY is to save money... Drilling a hole into a 19 cent elbow vs buying a $18 + s&h venturi valve... I would probably go with the former :mrgreen:


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

I agree with wasser... I am trying to save money and I like to tinker around with projects like this... However the venturi valve is a good idea.

At this point my reactor works flawlessly and I have under $30 into it.... 


Jason


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

This is what I bought for 2 reactors:

$4.80 for 8 reducers (1.5->1, 1->0.5")
$2.40 for 4 slip couplings 1.5"
$3 for a 1.5" PVC pipe
$.75 for a 0.5" PVC pipe
$.80 for 4 elbows 1/2" 
$1.75 for PVC cement

I also used some 5/8 ID tubing, which costs $6 for 10 ft.

So that's about $10 per reactor.

At my first attempt the thing was leaking... I overestimated the powers of PVC cement. Re-glued it, and now it seems to be good. It's a little scary... if something should go wrong, the entire tank will drain. I should drill a little safety hole into the inlet of the filter...


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

> It's a little scary... if something should go wrong, the entire tank will drain


There you have it! That is why I am not a DIY guy! :wink: I live in apartment, above my workplace. If I had a leaking problem I would be DEAD!!!

Mike


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Momotaro said:


> > It's a little scary... if something should go wrong, the entire tank will drain
> 
> 
> There you have it! That is why I am not a DIY guy! :wink: I live in apartment, above my workplace. If I had a leaking problem I would be DEAD!!!
> ...


Mike,

I can see your concern. I would not want a leak in your situation either. However I have just as much faith in my DIY projects as a store bought product. Heck I usually over engineer my projects, seal them better, make them stronger, etc. Of course it is a matter of comfort level too...

Jason


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## Scorpion (Oct 10, 2003)

Jason, I will diagnose you with TTS----> Tim Taylor Syndrome.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Scorpion said:


> Jason, I will diagnose you with TTS----> Tim Taylor Syndrome.



Hahahahha :lol: :lol: :lol: Guilty as charged...



Jason


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Keep us posted on this one Jason!! :wink: 

Mike


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Momotaro said:


> Keep us posted on this one Jason!! :wink:
> 
> Mike


Will do  .... Cant wait to see some more pics of your tank... Always leaves me speechless... Just awsome


Jason


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## mr hyde (Sep 7, 2002)

I'm looking around for some plumbing parts to make a reactor but can't find the kind of air line fitting I wanted. The kind they use on a reactor 1000 are what I am trying to find. These fittings are sort of a compression fitting that locks the air line in place with a threaded collar. A pretty secure connection with no worries of the air line popping off and creating a water siphon. Heres a couple photos of the fitting:


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Ok, the search is on...


Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

mr hyde said:


> I'm looking around for some plumbing parts to make a reactor but can't find the kind of air line fitting I wanted. The kind they use on a reactor 1000 are what I am trying to find. These fittings are sort of a compression fitting that locks the air line in place with a threaded collar. A pretty secure connection with no worries of the air line popping off and creating a water siphon. Heres a couple photos of the fitting:


Ok, after a few hours on line. It appears that kind of connection is unique to gas delivery used in welding. Most specifically inert gases, like nitrogen and as you probably guessed CO2. Any good local welding supply house should be able to get this kind of connector....THere are not any good online catalogs of these connectors for me to show you price, sizes etc.... However, http://www.lencocanada.com/prodcard.html has a pic half way down its page....

Jason


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## mr hyde (Sep 7, 2002)

That looks like the same type design as these. The only difference is these are plastic, probably next to impossible to find them. May have to go with the brass ones. 
Thanks


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## SCMurphy (Oct 21, 2003)

You can get the plastic ones from www.mcmaster.com, go to page 119 of the catalog. Plastic tube compression fittings. Of course you have to know the OUTER diameter of your tubing.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

SCMurphy said:


> You can get the plastic ones from www.mcmaster.com, go to page 119 of the catalog. Plastic tube compression fittings. Of course you have to know the OUTER diameter of your tubing.



Thanks for the link, however all the fittings on that site are traditional compression fittings that grasp the outside Dia of the line and not the inside like Mr. Hyde was looking for. The other issue is most C02 proof tubing is 4mm and not traditional sized (e.g 3/16,etc) flexible platic tubing. Seems to be unique to welding, tho pneumatic actuators, and robotics also use 4mm tubing, just not the specific connector styles... I have only found the connectors in brass, which should not be of any concern.


Jason


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

ok, so here's my latest dilemna: since the plumbing specialty store is only open m-f 8 till 4 :evil: i had to send my better half over to pick up 3/4 inch barbs in place of the 1/2 inch barbs (to best fit the 5/8 inch tubing that comes with the xp3. (i have given up on finding 5/8 inch barb fittings).

so when i came home from work today she still had the 1/2 inch fittings. since she had taken the 5/8 inch rena tubing to the store, the guy working there, (who was very helpful to her, i will add), told her that it would be extremely difficult to fit that size tubing onto a 3/4 inch barb. he suggested using clamps with the *1/2 inch barbs*. looking at the tubing as i type this, i can kinda see his point; it probably would work. but if i did use the 1/2 inch barbs, my concern would be that the barbs would slow down the outflow of the cannister too much. does anyone have any opinion on this? i know it's only 5/8 inch vs 1/2 inch, not much of a difference one might say, but i seem to recall an equation in physics where water flow is proportional to diameter *raised to the fourth power*.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

I think water restriction is the least of your worries. I would still be suspect of those fittings, the last thing you want is to find out you have a leak.... I dont think you water restriction is a concern being it is only at two connections and not the whole length of tube.

Boy I am suprised the local home depot doesnt carry them. I have even seen them at the Ace hardware by me, but being in the great white north of canada might have something to do with it  ...

Jason


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

hey jason, thanks for the quick reply. though i think i'll have to respectfully disagree with you with your premise that "I dont think you water restriction is a concern being it is only at two connections and not the whole length of tube."  i think that any restriction at any point would tend to reduce the flow along the whole line. but anyway it's probably a moot point. i REALLY want to get this project done this weekend, so i posted the question over at aquabotanic as well. rex was kind enough to point out that he indeed has in the past fitted the rena xp3 tubing over a 3/4 inch barb. so maybe i can leave work a little early tomorrow before the store closes.

thanks jason, and your comments re possible leaking from a questionable fitting are worth noting as well. 

hope all's well, keep the tank pics coming,
jart


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Jart,

Keep me posted. I think with a little heat to soften(hair dryer, heat gun :shock: ) the hose it will fit over the 3/4 barb. I had originally bought both when doing my reactor and while the 5/8 is a better fit, 3/4 is doable.. After answering your question, I re-thought my comment on the restriction and agree you are correct. A smaller orfice is a just that. A restriciton to flow... I still would not worry about it.... 8) 

I would love to see a pic when it is done.... Kind of interested in any design improvements you made over mine  


Jason


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

don't hold your breath waiting for any pics buddy :lol: ... not going to be able to cut out of work early. so it'll be next week :evil: .

your ideas for heating the tube are good ones. i also recall reading someone using some hot water on the stove to carefully dip the tubing in... not too hot though!

cheers,
jart


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## pedietz (Dec 18, 2003)

So Wellbiz....

you seemed extra cautious for a lot of the steps....

Did you cement in the barbed hose-ends or did you teflon-tape only ??

Also I noticed you went with a 1.5 inch design over the 2 inch one found on the original site.... Any reasons ??

How did you fasten the thing vertically in your tank ??


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## hubbahubbahehe (Sep 13, 2003)

wellbiz, do you ever have a problem with your canister flow slowing down ever since you put in the co2 reactor??


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

hubbahubbahehe said:


> wellbiz, do you ever have a problem with your canister flow slowing down ever since you put in the co2 reactor??


If it is I cant tell. I have two XP-3 filters with both spray bars positioned exactly the same, but on different ends of the tank. They appear to make identical currents... So I guess the answer is no  

Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

pedietz said:


> So Wellbiz....
> 
> you seemed extra cautious for a lot of the steps....
> 
> ...


pedietz,

I always try to be extra careful when dealing with 120gallons of water  


The barbed ends are Teflon taped. Everything else cemented.

Only the top inlet pipe and elbow are 1.5 inch(only parts available) The body is still 2inch....

It just hangs. I put a screw eyelet on the frame of the stand and fasten the reactor with a zip tie. Not really the most high tech, but allows for some movement and is easy to remove and clean...


Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

jart said:


> don't hold your breath waiting for any pics buddy :lol: ... not going to be able to cut out of work early. so it'll be next week :evil: .
> 
> your ideas for heating the tube are good ones. i also recall reading someone using some hot water on the stove to carefully dip the tubing in... not too hot though!
> 
> ...


Jart, any news on your reactor... I am still holding my breath... :lol: 

Jason


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## Hoosch (Jan 13, 2004)

Wasserpest said:


> At my first attempt the thing was leaking... I overestimated the powers of PVC cement. Re-glued it, and now it seems to be good. It's a little scary... if something should go wrong, the entire tank will drain. I should drill a little safety hole into the inlet of the filter...


I too overestimated the powers of PVC cement. One of my fittings has a slow leak. You said that you "re-glued" yours when this happened. How exactly did you go about that? Did you somehow pull the pieces apart and re-cement them, or just cement over the edges of the fittings? I wasn't aware that you could get the pieces apart after they had been cemented together. Since only one junction is leaking, I'd really rather not have to go out and buy all new pieces and start over.

Also, you mentioned drilling a hole in the inlet of the filter. I've heard people mention this before. Is this a common thing? I'm assuming one would just drill a small hole an inch or so under the surface of the water? But would that make your filter burn out? I would think after the water-level got below the hole, the filter would no longer take water in, but still continue to pump water out until it was dry... and then it would be running dry. Maybe it's simply a choice of 75 gallons of water all over the carpet or buying a new filter.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I didn't pull the pieces apart, but instead made sure the whole thing was dry (from the outside, at least) and filled the gap and edges with pvc cement. Now it's all good. Well except for the fact that I thought 1.5" diameter would be sufficient. Now I know better, and have to add some more pieces to make it 2".

I would prefer to replace a burnt out filter over 100 gallons of water on my carpet. I don't know how long those filters can spin without water. Actually, neither option is very attractive.

The weakness of my reactor is where CO2 enters the elbow. I just glued in a check valve, but this is not a very secure thing. It is too easy to break off, and then... water! Still looking for a little plastic fitting to use instead.


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## pedietz (Dec 18, 2003)

I hooked up my DIY external CO2 reactor today.
Used 1.5 inch dimension PVC and the hoeftiezer plans.

One thing I noticed, the XP2 tubing doesnt like to fit snug on the plastic 5/8th inch barb very tight.

Luckily I bought some Tetra 5/8ths tube at the LFS. That stuff is thick and grabs the barb better...


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

The OD/ID of different barbs, hoses, and plastic pipes left me a little confused too. My XP tubing fits very tightly on the male/male garden hose menders, and if I heat it up carefully, on 1/2" PVC pipes (although barbs are more secure for this purpose... I suppose).

I changed my reactor from 1.5" to a (shorter) 2", now the flow inside is slow enough and all of the bubbles are dissolving. With the XP2 having less flow, 1.5" might work well.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Reactor is still working great.... 8)


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## Newkidonthetank (Apr 3, 2004)

All of these use pressurized dont they.... none use diy...


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## Newkidonthetank (Apr 3, 2004)

ok i only have a 10 gal and i dont want to use a big syphon is there any way i could use a mini gravel vac and the same type of sub... pump? i havent made it yet... just asking... this is nothing like thoes but if u can answer my question ide be verry happy...


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## ninoboy (Jan 26, 2004)

Using those DIY reactor in a 10 gl will look like crap I agree. You have several options:
1. stick the CO2 output into your filter intake.
2. Use a hagen ladder : http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...tid=8981&Ne=40000&R=15264&Nao=9&N=2004+112954
You just need to buy the ladder diffuser.


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## Newkidonthetank (Apr 3, 2004)

Do they sell them at stores? like earl may or petco..?


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## squirrelproductions (Mar 15, 2004)

Newkidonthetank said:


> Do they sell them at stores? like earl may or petco..?


I have seen them at PetSmart -- also available online: Hagen Plant Grow Natural System with CO2


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## ninoboy (Jan 26, 2004)

Yes, Petsmart carries them but I believe you have to buy the complete system (can't buy the ladder only).


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## hubbahubbahehe (Sep 13, 2003)

petsmart is too expensive dude. you will find cheaper places that sell it individually for 9 bucks...i've seen it locally for 12


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## Rikko (Jan 24, 2004)

List price is $19.99 CDN - you shouldn't be paying more than that or you're getting ripped.

And honestly, 20 bucks for a stupid piece of sloped plastic is a ripoff to begin it. But, unfortunately, it's a good idea and works very well.


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

wellbiz how many bioballs would you suggest placing in such a reactor? i recall james said he used about 4. i presume too many might impede flow.

jart, still a little woozy from cement fumes.

and yes i know i promised some reactor pics eons ago...:icon_redf . think my gf may have screwed up my camera. nevertheless, they will come, as well as pics of most expensive glass tank per gallon than any other member on this board owns, i'm willing to bet...:icon_roll . the damp weather is making for some great diy time.


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

jart said:


> wellbiz how many bioballs would you suggest placing in such a reactor? i recall james said he used about 4. i presume too many might impede flow.
> 
> jart, still a little woozy from cement fumes.
> 
> and yes i know i promised some reactor pics eons ago...:icon_redf . think my gf may have screwed up my camera. nevertheless, they will come, as well as pics of most expensive glass tank per gallon than any other member on this board owns, i'm willing to bet...:icon_roll . the damp weather is making for some great diy time.


Hey Jart,

I think I ended up with 6 of the bio balls in the reactor....... Cant wait to see that tank.....


Jason


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## wellbiz (Aug 6, 2003)

Updated pic roud:


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## jart (Jan 17, 2003)

good job buddy.

another question, which may seem kind of lame, but here goes. when the time comes to refill your co2 tank, you'll obviously have to disconnect the co2 tubing. would you plan on simply disconnecting it on the other side of the check valve (to keep the water from draining out on the floor?)

the reason why i'm asking is, i set up my reactor a few days ago (i know it's taking forever, but, new shed, new roof, new upstairs addition, new landscaping, yadda, yadda). as i didn't have the co2 tubing hooked up to the co2 tank, i was amazed at how fast the water would pour out of the co2 line once the reactor filled with water. for now i have the loose end of the co2 tubing sitting in the tank. i guess it depends on the type of check valve one uses, as to how much water pressure they can withstand and for how long, but it kinda makes you wonder how easy it would be for a large quantity of water to drain into your regulator should your co2 tank empty and your check check valve fail... :icon_roll . i don't mean to be a pessimist but is this something we should be giving more thought to? maybe a couple of check valves just to make sure? anyway i'd just thought i'd ask your opinion.

hope all's well, thanks for the updated pic.


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