# Post-DSM Flooding Process - Best Practices



## mrnvgtr (May 20, 2016)

I'm about 7 weeks into my dry-start with really good rooting and moderate growth above the soil, so I want to figure out the best way to flood the tank (ADA Mini M) and have the tank ready for the addition of fauna.

1. Does anyone know a good process to follow or can reference a good article on the topic? This is my first time, so I need specifics here. With the exception of the canister filter, lighting, thermometer, and Excel, I haven't purchased anything extra as I'd rather spend money on exactly what I need.

Some specific questions just in case they're not answered above:

2. I still have a significant area of Aquasoil where the Utricularia Graminifolia carpet hasn't spread to. What's the best technique to add water and not make a mess?

3. I know I'll essentially have a cycled tank from the start, but what's a good way to jump start my filter media?

4. What are the basic water parameters/limits to check and for how many days to be sure I'm ready for fauna?

5. Regardless of the opinions on this, I'm starting off with Excel as my method of C02 enrichment. How do you know there's enough C02, and not too much for the fauna?

I think that's all the questions I have for now. Thanks for your time.


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## RyRob (May 30, 2015)

Hello, I've never kept UG before so consider that whilst reading my reply considering Excel.

1. Search Google for "dry start method" and you will find a lot of information on the topic. I believe Tom Barr popularized the method? 

2. When I add water to a new tank or shallow tank, I cup my hand and place it about an inch above the substrate then slowly pour water into my cupped hand so it doesn't disturb the substrate until I can just add the water. You could also use a small plate or something just to break up the water before it hits the substrate. 

3. Since you are using Aquasoil, the leeching ammonia after filling up will be enough to jumpstart the media and actually begin the nitrogen cycle.

4. After flooding your tank, with Aquasoil, the substrate will leech ammonia. Like any new tank, amonnia, nitrite, and nitrate should be monitored until only nitrate (5-20) is registering on your test kits. Since you did the DSM, your plants have had a chance to deplete some of the nutrients in the Aquasoil. Determining a timeframe for that process is unique to every tank but it shouldn't take more than a few weeks to cycle. That's why we test for ammonia, nitrite, and then nitrate. I would check all three daily until you get a nitrate reading. Usually by that time the ammonia levels have diminished to 0 and nitrite is on its way out. You can perform water changes at any time during cycling without harm to the cycle itself. When ammonia and nitrite are at 0 and nitrate is between 5-20, your cycle is complete and you can slowly add critters. If you are still getting readings of ammonia and nitrite, your cycle is not complete. Also, if you are using liquid API tests, a final ammonia reading of .25 is usually normal when the ammonia spike is declining. If your nitrites read 0 and ammonia is still .25 after the cycle, I'd consider ammonia at "0", it's just something about the cheaper test kits. I've never had an issue with ammonia and my API test usually reads .25 ammonia (or whatever the lowest reading possible on the test chart is, I think it's .25).

5. Excel is not co2 and can not be measured the same way we measure co2 gas in the aquarium. I recomend following the directions that Seachem put on the bottle but skip the initial huge dose with water changes. Just use the standard daily dose and go from there. Excel is toxic in anything over double doses and should be handled in respects towards that it is the harshest thing we put in our tanks and fish, inverts, and plants ARE sensitive towards excel just at different rates. However, when following the manufacturers recommended dosage you shouldn't run into any problems with fauna. and many people use it, including myself. Some plants are just excel sensitive no matter what you do though. 

I appologize if I'm confusing or didn't answer all of your questions, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will come along and give you advice too. Sounds like you are off to a pretty good start!


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## mrnvgtr (May 20, 2016)

Thanks for your responses!



RyRob said:


> Hello, I've never kept UG before so consider that whilst reading my reply considering Excel.
> 
> 1. Search Google for "dry start method" and you will find a lot of information on the topic. I believe Tom Barr popularized the method?
> 
> 2. When I add water to a new tank or shallow tank, I cup my hand and place it about an inch above the substrate then slowly pour water into my cupped hand so it doesn't disturb the substrate until I can just add the water. You could also use a small plate or something just to break up the water before it hits the substrate.


I guess question 1 was really just a vague way of asking question 2. However, I ended up going with the method that I thought of before asking the question - spraying water from a squirt bottle for 2 hours. I just figured there would be a better technique out there. 



RyRob said:


> 3. Since you are using Aquasoil, the leeching ammonia after filling up will be enough to jumpstart the media and actually begin the nitrogen cycle.


Got it!



RyRob said:


> 4. After flooding your tank, with Aquasoil, the substrate will leech ammonia. Like any new tank, amonnia, nitrite, and nitrate should be monitored until only nitrate (5-20) is registering on your test kits. Since you did the DSM, your plants have had a chance to deplete some of the nutrients in the Aquasoil. Determining a timeframe for that process is unique to every tank but it shouldn't take more than a few weeks to cycle. That's why we test for ammonia, nitrite, and then nitrate. I would check all three daily until you get a nitrate reading. Usually by that time the ammonia levels have diminished to 0 and nitrite is on its way out. You can perform water changes at any time during cycling without harm to the cycle itself. When ammonia and nitrite are at 0 and nitrate is between 5-20, your cycle is complete and you can slowly add critters. If you are still getting readings of ammonia and nitrite, your cycle is not complete. Also, if you are using liquid API tests, a final ammonia reading of .25 is usually normal when the ammonia spike is declining. If your nitrites read 0 and ammonia is still .25 after the cycle, I'd consider ammonia at "0", it's just something about the cheaper test kits. I've never had an issue with ammonia and my API test usually reads .25 ammonia (or whatever the lowest reading possible on the test chart is, I think it's .25).


Got it! Seems fairly straight forward since the DSM helped jump-start the process. So, ammonia, nitrite, then nitrate for cycle status.  Then of course other parameters like PH for fauna, right?



RyRob said:


> 5. Excel is not co2 and can not be measured the same way we measure co2 gas in the aquarium. I recomend following the directions that Seachem put on the bottle but skip the initial huge dose with water changes. Just use the standard daily dose and go from there. Excel is toxic in anything over double doses and should be handled in respects towards that it is the harshest thing we put in our tanks and fish, inverts, and plants ARE sensitive towards excel just at different rates. However, when following the manufacturers recommended dosage you shouldn't run into any problems with fauna. and many people use it, including myself. Some plants are just excel sensitive no matter what you do though.


Got it! I did some simple math and figured out that the daily dosage of Excel for my 21L tank should be about 0.5ML.



RyRob said:


> I appologize if I'm confusing or didn't answer all of your questions, I'm sure someone more knowledgeable than me will come along and give you advice too. Sounds like you are off to a pretty good start!


Nope, perfect advice. I just think my spray bottle technique was no harder than your hand technique would have been, haha.


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## LinaS (Jul 14, 2015)

plastic bag over the hose will work prefect while pouring water, or you can cover part of your soil with it and put few stones/something heavy to hold it in place and remove it after flooding


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