# Need better CO2 check valve



## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

How are you diffusing the gas? If CO2 is in the line, water can rise back because it's absorbing the gas.


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## aqenthusiast (May 12, 2012)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> How are you diffusing the gas? If CO2 is in the line, water can rise back because it's absorbing the gas.


Even when I used ceramic diffuser placed in the tank and now with inline reactor, water climbs back in co2 pipe and if solenoid is not started for few days for any reason then it will reach all the way to the regulator even though check valve is in between. . I believe better check valve should stop water getting in. .

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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

That's normal. It's due to the pressure of the reactor pushing the water through the line which is filled with CO2. CO2 dissolves much more readily than O2 or N2 so it will eventually completely dissolve. The CV probably isn't faulty.

Bump: If water gets passed the CV, then it's faulty.


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## aqenthusiast (May 12, 2012)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> Bump: If water gets passed the CV, then it's faulty.


Yes it is climbing past CV..

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## KH2PO4 (Jul 18, 2009)

Let's think about it. How could the water be "pushed" into the line 
when you used the ceramic diffuser? Why are there many cases where (here) 
very expensive (brass/stainless Swagelok/Clippard) check valves 
fail to stop the water from passing them?

It's simply just the CO2 in the line is dissolved and turned into water. 
And some check valves need to be "pushed" to close the gate, so they failed 
in this case, since there is no "push".

There is no push also when you use a reactor because when the solenoid is 
close, the CO2 in the line has no where to go. So the water can't push it 
anywhere.











I'd used the same cheap plastic check valve (like the opaque blue one above, 
not the clear type—I think the clear type need pressure to close the gate, 
so they are not suitable here) for 3-4 years with no issue. But it eventually 
failed (water moves pass the valve) recently, the new one has been working 
fine for about a year now.

You can just change them at the same time as you change/refill your CO2 
bottle and connect them in series to be assured or just set your timer to 
turn on the solenoid for 1-2 minutes in the middle of the night.


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## HUNTER (Sep 4, 2012)

I'm using cheap plastic check valves, but I have 4 installed in case like this happens. It's been a year but none fails yet.


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## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

I found a local store that sells these, and you can also get them on evilbay for like $2 for 20 ...I've had little to no issues using them (knock on wood), and I've used expensive brass chrome, a dennerle co2 designed CV, and many others which have all failed to close for whatever reason.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Those little plastic barrel check valves have failed for me 2 out of 2 times (different models)
I'm using one of the cleanable "ball" type plastic from fleabay.. works good so far.
Other recommend the flat disc type plastic and would have gone that route "if" it was an easy find ..it wasn't.. 










If anyones tried these and they failed I'd like to know..

Disc type:


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## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

I've tried those white ista ball check valves, which are supposed to be designed for co2 and to my dismay I found they all leaked (all 6 I bought). I spray everything with soapy foam to make sure nothing's leaking.


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## charlie 1 (Oct 22, 2006)

exv152 said:


> I found a local store that sells these, QUOTE]
> Let me in on the secret :red_mouth


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

KH2PO4 said:


> There is no push also when you use a reactor because when the solenoid is
> close, the CO2 in the line has no where to go. So the water can't push it
> anywhere.


It's not about pushing/moving the water, it's about the water absorbing the gas and taking it's place.

There's a considerable amount of pressure in a reactor and the gas in the line will eventually be absorbed.

The disc CV I use is mounted close to the reactor and it will allow water into it. It has yet to allow water passed it, however.


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## KH2PO4 (Jul 18, 2009)

jeffkrol said:


> Those little plastic barrel check valves have failed for me 2 out of 2 times (different models)
> I'm using one of the cleanable "ball" type plastic from fleabay.. works good so far.
> Other recommend the flat disc type plastic and would have gone that route "if" it was an easy find ..it wasn't..
> >>


Just having had a look on eBay, it seems most of aquarium CVs are barrel type now.
And most of the flat disc type (they used to be in opaque blue) are now in clear configuration. 
I think they probably work the same.




Solcielo lawrencia said:


> It's not about pushing/moving the water, it's about the water absorbing the gas and taking it's place.
> 
> There's a considerable amount of pressure in a reactor and the gas in the line will eventually be absorbed.
> 
> The disc CV I use is mounted close to the reactor and it will allow water into it. It has yet to allow water passed it, however.


An LFS guy I know who uses the flat disc doesn't have the problem too.
He was actually baffled when I told him the issue.


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## KH2PO4 (Jul 18, 2009)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> It's not about pushing/moving the water, it's about the water absorbing the gas and taking it's place.
> 
> There's a considerable amount of pressure in a reactor and the gas in the line will eventually be absorbed.
> >>


When I wrote about the "push" I wasn't aiming at you.
(But you would get bad feeling nonetheless. I'm sorry)

I just wanted to preempt the recommendation to buy very 
expensive "high pressure" check valves which wouldn't 
necessarily mean they will work.


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## birbaliktanki (Jun 18, 2014)

HUNTER said:


> I'm using cheap plastic check valves, but I have 4 installed in case like this happens. It's been a year but none fails yet.


you are using 4 check valves in between the solenoid and the reactor/diffuser. doesn't it diminish significantly the gas pressure getting into your reactor/diffuser?


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## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

charlie 1 said:


> exv152 said:
> 
> 
> > I found a local store that sells these, QUOTE]
> ...


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

exv152 said:


> charlie 1 said:
> 
> 
> > It's on Kennedy, somewhat local.
> ...


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## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

Darkblade48 said:


> I just went on eBay and bought them for cheaper. You can pretty much find whaever that store carries online, usually for a cheaper price.


That's what I did and got a lot of 20 check valves for like $3-4 I believe. One thing I like about that store, that you can't find online, is their rimless starfire glass tanks. One day I will walk in there and buy the 170 gallon rimless.


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## VousDeux (Jun 7, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Those little plastic barrel check valves have failed for me 2 out of 2 times (different models)
> I'm using one of the cleanable "ball" type plastic from fleabay.. works good so far.
> Other recommend the flat disc type plastic and would have gone that route "if" it was an easy find ..it wasn't..
> 
> ...


I bought one of these last week and it failed within two days. The pressure blew the seal out between the two halves.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I've had good luck with the ADA, Swagelok, Clippard and now I'm trying the one's that are the atomic style. They all can fail.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

I like the mettleair push to connect product. Have yet to have any issues.


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