# My first NPT - A 10 Gallon Journey



## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

I finally took the plunge and started my first planted tank after keeping fish for nearly two decades. So I'm starting with a 10 gallon NPT.

I've been keeping this journal at APC but I'm not getting the experienced feedback there that I was hoping for so maybe this community will be more responsive.



13 days ago I received my plants (ordered online). Unfortunately RL decided to kick me with lots of pressing matters so its wasn't until 10 p.m. that I got to start planting. I was afraid of leaving them packed another night (which I now think I should have done).

I planted some Hydrocotyle Leucocephala on the left back corner;
Ludwigia Arcuata as the front most background, little on each side.
Bacopa Monieri on the right side back corner
Egreia Najas mixed into the background
3 Anubias attached to the wood
2 java ferns

I used ~1in. Organic Choice that is actually about 2 years old. I topped this with fine gravel.

I have a 100 gph pump providing circulation.

Lighting is 2 - 23W 6500k daylight CF bulbs, currently about 10 inches above surface level (this can be adjusted). I plan on 2 6 hour perios with 4 hours off between them.

Currently... The H. Leucocephala has uprooted itself and is now floating, though I'm not too worried about this as my research has shown that this plant is commonly kept this way.

The L. Arcuata has all lost it's leaves and many stems have blackened or completely melted. The leaves are all over the tank and it's nearly impossible to collect them all.

The B. Monieri is mostly doing well. Several stems are going ariel.

The E. Najas has mostly melted away but there are a few stems that have survived and are now responding well.

The anubias are all doing well, there are three attached to the driftwood.

The java fern seems to be doing okay but there are black spots on all the leaves, this is how they arrived. They don't seem to be getting worse or better.

The fauna... I placed 6 pond snails in there at set up and the first babies hatched a couple days ago.

I had 6 harlequins and 5 of them have died. The Am., NO2 and NO3 have constantly tested at 0 so I'm guessing they were just bad fish (did get them at PetCo., afterall).

On day 6 I started noticing some Green Hair Algae on the java fern's leaves and dirftwood so I added a Chineese Algae Eater, and 3 Nerite snails. I also added some duckweed.

These additions have curtailed the algae growth rather well.

Finally, I'm noticing air bubbles in the gravel and every so often a small air bubble shoots up to the surface. My soil is MGO but it is also two years old and should have gased out but I guess it wasn't quite done, lol.

Anyone know what the effects would be on fish? The Ammonia, N2 and N3 are all at 0. Makes me wonder if I have a dud test kit.


I would appreciate any thoughts or insights you all have to share... I've been keep fish successfully for a long time but find planted tanks a bit intimidating, lol.


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## Bahugo (Apr 18, 2011)

Isn't it recommended for NPT (no use of filtration, just a current added) to be in direct sunlight from a window? I'm just asking, I thought that's what I read on apc when I was looking into it.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Bahugo said:


> Isn't it recommended for NPT (no use of filtration, just a current added) to be in direct sunlight from a window? I'm just asking, I thought that's what I read on apc when I was looking into it.


Yes, this is correct... however, temporary use of mechanical filtration to remove debris is often practiced.

My tank has no filter unit. I did have a HOB filter for the first couple of days but the noise annoyed me and the pump I use to provide circulation does a good enough job of collecting loose particles.

As far as direct sunlight... it is recommended but not essential.


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## Lil' Swimz$ (Jul 24, 2010)

The white rock looks like a type of limestone/marble/dolomite. I'd take it out.


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## narhay (Feb 28, 2007)

Just my opinion:

For a small tank like this, I would have only 1 type of rock. Get several in varied sizes and place them naturally. Once your rock and wood is in place, plant around it. Small plants in the front, tall in the back.

I think you have a really nice pallete here. Good luck in the future.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Lil' Swimz$ said:


> The white rock looks like a type of limestone/marble/dolomite. I'd take it out.


I've been thinking about removing that rock... water testing suggests it inert but either way it just doesn't look right in the tank. I'm most likely going to remove the rock. Then I'll shift the wood to the left a bit more (but still off-center). Then maybe fill the gaps with a nice flooring of crypts.

Today's update... There is a lot of rotting plant material that I need to remove, some white fungus is starting to appear on some of the dead plant matter. This will be tomorrow's project.

Still seeing lots of gassing of the substrate. This surprises me since the soil is two years old.

The pics attached show the the Bacopa submerged and going ariel. You can also see the some of the newborn pond snails. 

Note the duckweed... on Tuesday I cleared all but maybe 4 sq. inches of it. Three days later it needs another thinning out.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Bahugo said:


> Isn't it recommended for NPT (no use of filtration, just a current added)


Ms Walsted doesn't have filtration but she has a UV sterilizer in her tank. I tried a tank without filtration and had problems with BBA. Now have canister filter in my planted tank. Love it.

Good start. I think the big black rock should be on the right though. The golden rule helps to direct the eye toward a focal point.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> Good start. I think the big black rock should be on the right though. The golden rule helps to direct the eye toward a focal point.


The black rock is actually drift wood... Thanks for the link, that's some great info and will definitely use it... I'm kind of debating whether I want to aquascape this tank or just focus on growing plants.

Believe it or not I had actually sketched a whole layout but the day the plants arrive was crazy busy I didn't start planting the tank until after 10 pm and was really far too tired to have even started. Had I just kept them boxed up I probably should have planted the tank the next day when I was rested.

Anyway, the tank is really messy but I think the plants are really starting to take off... the Hydrocotyle is floating because it didn't take root but all research says this plant does just fine as a floater so I'm not worried, especially since it seems to be getting its vibrancy back. Maybe I can eliminate the use the duckweed.

The Bacopa has several stems that are ariel, one of them is even an inch or more above the water line. These are really taking off well seem to all be really healthy.

Several of the E. Najas have developed side shoots. I'm waiting till they grow in more before trimming and replanting them. A couple of my original stems of these didn't quite make it though.

The L. Arcuata seems to be the only wild card so far... they lost most of their leaves but since then seem to be stabilized. The jury is still out though.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> Believe it or not I had actually sketched a whole layout but the day the plants arrive was crazy busy I didn't start planting the tank until after 10pm and was really far too tired to have even started.


Quite understand for I have done the same thing. One time put it off and the plants died. Thus I think it best to plant as soon as possible for you never know what obstacles you have the next day to deal with.


firefiend said:


> The L. Arcuata seems to be the only wild card so far... they lost most of their leaves but since then seem to be stabilized. The jury is still out though.


It is a nitrate hog. Dosing with potassium nitrate(KNO3) should help revive it. Dose daily for a week then daily (1tsp daily/ 1Tbs wkly). KNO3 dry can be bought dry here. For liquid form I like Seachem potassium. Cheapest here (dose 5ml daily/ 10ml wkly).

What ferts are you dosing?


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

looks good, I agree with the others about the white rock fitting in and the wood placement. 

you could try pygmy chain sword as a foreground plant.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

I'm not using any ferts other than fish waste and fish food and the soil substrate.

I may end up getting some ferts to use for emergencies but all-in-all I'm trying to manipulate the tanks as little as possible. I'm sure I'll loose some plants (and be limited in species) at the cost of experience but in the long run it will be worth it.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Well I thought I got rid of the hair algae but today I see that my java fern has a couple leaves just loaded with it... it's the only algae I see in the tank though. This fern's leaves were very black when I received it and I just don't think it "take root" quick enough to stave off the attack.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> I see that my java fern has a couple leaves. I just don't think it "take root" quick enough to stave off the attack.


Take it out and spray with excel or peroxide is the fastest way to deal with it. They don't take root.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> They don't take root.



hehe, I meant "take root" as in establishing itself after being shipped and then placed in a new environment... hence the quotes. 

Thanks for the tip on the peroxide... do I use straight-up peroxide or do I dilute it?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> I may end up getting some ferts to use for emergencies.
> I'm trying to manipulate the tanks as little as possible.


I would recommend Seachem Excel. 
Yeh it is cheaper in the long run to just keep plants that work for you.
I accidentally found that overfeeding my fish increased my nitrates, which were 0 at 1 time. 


firefiend said:


> Do I use straight-up peroxide or do I dilute it?


It is already diluted. Soak it in peroxide for 5min may help. Nothing is certain when dealing with nature.


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## riverdragon (Jun 17, 2011)

The bubbling substrate is something that happens for the first few months of dirt tanks. You get little pockets of anaerobic areas as the soil adjusts to being submersed. When the plants grow in more, it will go away. In the meantime it isn't really a big deal, though you might want to poke the substrate occasionally to let the bubbles come up. Some people have had large bubbles build up and then explode toward the surface, which brings up dirt from under the cap. 

Nice emersed growth, btw!


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Well, did some work on the tank today... took the rock out and re-attached the anubias to the wood.

The Hydrocotyle is floating now and held in place along the left side of the tank with some suction cup airline tube holders.

I need something to fill in the left side... any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

The tank isn't pretty. There is no aquascaping and I feel like there are far too many bacopa, they seem like they'd be a nice accent stem with a stem or scatter into the background. I love how they growing emergent though and think I'm going to have them in my 55g for sure.

I love the E. Najas and I have several stems that are growing really well. I think this can be a beautiful bushy background plant.

My ludwigia has not done well and seems to be mostly gone now.

This is my first experience with planted aquariums and it hasn't been all that encouraging; I feel way out of my league. However, today I'm taking this tank for what it is was meant to be... a learning experience.

I'll keep this tank going indefinitely because even though I'm green now, I do love this hobby and this tank is just another step on my road to my 55 gallon.

I'm looking to do as little manipulation as possible, letting the flora and fauna to do it's thing. However, I am willing to spot dose on temporary basis and maybe root tabs on a quarterly basis.

What plants do you suggest with this in mind.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

I think the wood would look better turned the other way. It seems to end in the middle. Thinking then all of the tall plants would look good on the right side.

Also think some Wisteria would look good on the right side. 

For forefront plant thinking some Sagittaria subulata would work good with a few more anubias or ferns.


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## riverdragon (Jun 17, 2011)

Crypts do well in dirt tanks; they love the nutrients and grow slowly anyway. I'm having success with Crypt. undulata in my ten gal, and I read someplace that c. wendtii also does fine in small tanks. C. parva apparently grows slower than a snail, though it is smaller. 

Personally, my sagittaria subulata is super tall (to the top of the tank and then bent over some on the surface), but it came that way and the runners that have come up are pretty tall too. Maybe if you get it shorter in the first place it stays short. 

I'm also interested to hear that your hydrocotyle uprooted itself, since mine did that too at first. Almost all the stems died below the substrate and it floated up. But I replanted it stem by stem less deep a week or two ago, and it seems to be staying for now. You might try again with it and see if you have better luck.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

riverdragon said:


> But I replanted it stem by stem less deep a week or two ago, and it seems to be staying for now. You might try again with it and see if you have better luck.


So did plant the stems into the soil, or just above the soil in the sand/gravel?

I'm noticing quite a bit more BBA... I'm guessing this is because I don't have enough rooting plants to utilize the soil substrate.

So I'm gonna need to decide on some plants and get this thing rolling.

I'm thinking some pygmy chain swords for the foreground. Maybe a couple crypts behind that.


while I'm doing all this should I pull all the plants and do a complete rescape?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Your tank isn't balanced yet. I know you want to keep it natural and not dose ferts but BBA will destroy your plants. 

You need dose 1 Tbs of Seachem Excel daily. Alternative is Cidex. 
To mix up 100 ml of Excel strength, use 44 ml of Metricide (@ 3.4%) and add 56 ml of water. That will give you 100 ml of Excel strength (1.5% concentration) Glut. 1 tsp = 5 ml and 1 Tbs = 15 ml


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## nonconductive (Jan 29, 2010)

yes, what Hilde said. you need to wipe out that bba before it becomes a major problem.

subscribed.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Thanks, hilde and non-c... I think I'm going to take your advice and pick up some excel or cidex... which do you all think is better?

In the meantime I'm going to spot treat with H202.

I'm working on putting together which plants I'd like to add re-designing the scape. Here's what I'm thinking so far:

The driftwood I'm going to shift right and also spin it a little more so the anubias are slightly more in line (but not too much). the driftwood between the anubias forms a crescent shape so in that gap I want to put a tuft of hygophila polysperma. I'll keep the stem clear of leaves for the length of the formost anubias. This will give a nice red pop and make the anubias, driftwood and sunset the focal point.

to the right of the driftwood I will keep the E. Najas and move the Bacopa out. I haven't decided if I keep using the HOB as my primary water mover or if I'll go back to the 100gph water pump but whichever I use will be moved to the right side(where the wall is) so when the Najas grows to the top the flow will make it sweep to the left.

The H. leucocephala will remain floating because I totally love how Robert H's looks here:










And would love to replicate this around the sides and back edge of the tank.

For the Bacopa I'm thinking of placing a couple groups of 3 stems in the left back corner area where they can grow emergent. Whatever remaining L. Arcuata I have (might buy some more and give it another go) will fill the background edges. Considering M. aquaticum instead of the Arcuata because it has a similar appearance the Najas so it might look a bit smoother but then on the other hand the reddish of the arcuata will bring more color into play. What do you all think?

Moving inward I'm thinking 1 or 2 medium-sized crypts (like C. Becketii but still to research options here) and a Java fern. The remaining foreground will be carpeted with pygmy chain sowrds or maybe P. helferi.

A few small stone will be interlaced there color contrast depth but they will be shorter then the driftwood.

So, that's the plan so far as of now


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> I think I'm going to take your advice and pick up some excel or cidex... which do you all think is better?
> 
> In that gap I want to put a tuft of hygophila polysperma.


Cidex has to be diluted to make excel. Thus last longer.

Hygophila polysperma is an unruly weed. It won't stay in a small space. I gave it away for it took over my 29 gallon tank.

Edit:
You can use excel or cidex. The active ingredient (which is the only one we care about) is glutaraldehyde. Metricide 14 has 70% more glut by volume than Excel. You can make an Excel-strength by mixing 10 parts Met to 7 parts water (ideally distilled water).


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Thanks, Hilde... I'll look into other possibilities for the sunset.

I did my first H2O2 dose last night of 3ml per gallon. The pond snails and SAE did just fine but my 3 Nerites were dead this morning 

I didn't find anyone having problems with nerites and H2O2 so it's a bit sad. I'll hold off on getting some more until a week or two of trreatment.

in the meantime I'm looking at metricide on Ebay; is the only difference between metricide 14 and 28 the concentration of glutaraldehyde?

EDIT: The difference between Metricide 14 and 28 is the number of days the solution retains it efficacy after the activator is added; since we don't use the activator we only need to worry about the concentrations of glutaraldehyde.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

It didn't know there was a 14 day and 28 day. 
Googling found:
The Cidex Metricide 28 contains a surfactant and the Cidex Metricide 14 does not contain a surfactant. However the surfactant in metricide 28 is not harmful. Post 9

I do a 50/50 mix with the metricide 28 and tank water and now dose to the excel directions. Eric post 12


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

I'd found that same thread, haha. I ordered some metricide 28 and it should get here Friday. It was free shipping and less than $20 dollars.

50/50 water mix? The label says 2% glut... so I figure 75% matricide to 25% distilled water to match excel strength (assuming excel is 1.5% glut).

I did another dose of H2O2 tonight... though I did find a large pond snail dead this evening.

I'm going to assume that H2O2 is NOT snail friendly. Fortunately pond snails are free.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> I'd found that same thread, haha.


Scared me at first that I had bought something that would kill my fish.


firefiend said:


> 50/50 water mix? The label says 2% glut... so I figure 75% matricide to 25% distilled water to match excel strength (assuming excel is 1.5% glut).


I am uncertain how I will mix it now. Shall experiment with it and compare it to the excel I have.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> I am uncertain how I will mix it now. Shall experiment with it and compare it to the excel I have.



Well, let's see... Eric said that he used 50/50 solution but also said his bottle was 2.5% glut. The link he posted said it was a 2% glut. I've seen posts that quoted 3+% glut.

I'm guessing the manufacturer has either adjusted the solution or offers several concentrations.

If we take what he read of his bottle at 2.5% then the excel equivalent would be 60% metracide to 40% water... so perhaps his 50/50 was just for playing it conservative or just didn't want to do the math, lol.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> Well, let's see... Eric said that he used 50/50 solution but also said his bottle
> If we take what he read of his bottle at 2.5% then the excel equivalent would be 60% metracide to 40% water... so perhaps his 50/50 was just for playing it conservative or just didn't want to do the math, lol.


Think he had shrimp so he was probably just be cautious.

I shall try the 60/40 first. Thanks for the info. My thinking cap is not on now.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> Think he had shrimp so he was probably just be cautious.
> 
> I shall try the 60/40 first. Thanks for the info. My thinking cap is not on now.



Well, the bottle I bought has it listed as 2% Glut which would be 3:1 solution (75% metricide/ 25% water)

I plan to mix it in this manner so it is identical to excel. That way I can always cut it again when I actually do the dosing. I'd hate to mix it at 60/40 and then need to make it stronger later. Easier to weaken it.



Either way it seems to be safer than H2O2 on snails and inverts, lol.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> Well, the bottle I bought has it listed as 2% Glut which would be 3:1 solution (75% metricide/ 25% water) Easier to weaken


Sounds good roud:


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Morning after the second H2O2 dose... the SAE is still alive and kicking and no additional snails deaths have been reported (all the baby snails seem unaffected).

And I'm happy to report that the BBA has turned redish/pink. So that is good.


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## riverdragon (Jun 17, 2011)

I guess my reply is a little late to be useful, but... when I replanted the hydrocotyle stems, I just pushed them through the gravel cap but not into the soil. So far only 2 have come back up, so I'm counting it a success. You're right, though, it looks awesome emersed like that


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

riverdragon said:


> I guess my reply is a little late to be useful, but... when I replanted the hydrocotyle stems, I just pushed them through the gravel cap but not into the soil. So far only 2 have come back up, so I'm counting it a success. You're right, though, it looks awesome emersed like that



Yeah I love the emersed look and am definitely going with it for this tank.

You just went through the gravel, eh... I'll keep that in mind. I'm going to try planting some in my 2.5 betta vase.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Well, my rescape plans will hopefully be executed either next week or the week after. THe image below is what I'm planning on with a couple rocks mixed in on the left.










This doesn't show the Hydrocotyle that will be floating and emerged along the back and right edge.

So, my next questions is... I'm going to be keeping the Anubias and Bacopa and Hydrocotlye that are currently in the tank but because the tank is sparse with plants the BBA is getting out of control.

I've started some H2O2 treatments again (at a lower dose than I previously used) but what will I need to do to make these plants safe and clean for the rescape?

I've heard that removing the infected leaves is necessary but I'm afraid that after I do that I'll have nothing but rhizomes and stems left... if that's the case should I just buy all new plants? Or is it totally cool to plant a tank with a bunch of 1 -2" stems and bare rhizomes?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> Currently BBA is getting out of control.
> 
> What will I need to do to make these plants safe and clean for the rescape?
> I've heard that removing the infected leaves is necessary.


What I have done is dip the plants in the H20 and then rub the algae off of the leaves with my fingers. Then removed the leaves with algae. You must leave at least 2 leaves on the rhizome for it to regenerate.

I would add some Wisteria. Cheap at Petco. Also you may need some KNO3 (potassium nitrate). What are your nitrates? Dosing the excel alternative daily?


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> What I have done is dip the plants in the H20 and then rub the algae off of the leaves with my fingers. Then removed the leaves with algae.



You rubbed the algae off the leaves and then removed the leaves? If you're removing the leaves anyway, why bother rubbing the algae off?


I haven't started dosing the metricide yet; waiting until I replant the tank. Then I'll start measuring the parameters again.


Wisteria? Wont that get too big for a 10 gallon?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

firefiend said:


> You rubbed the algae off the leaves and then removed the leaves? If you're removing the leaves anyway, why bother rubbing the algae off?
> 
> Wisteria? Wont that get too big for a 10 gallon?


Removed the leaves that weren't improved by attempting to rub the algae off. 

Wisteria is good for absorbing excess nutrients. It can be trained to remain small by pruining.


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## BlueJack (Apr 15, 2011)

If you can remove the entire plant from the tank (might make a mess) then you can give it a H2O2 bath without harming your fish. Mix 2 TABLEspoons in 5 gallons of water...and give the plants a 1-2 minute dip. Sensitive needle leaf plants less than 1 and tougher thick broad leaf plants closer to 2. Too long and you'll hurt your plants. You'll see the BBA turn reddish and die off in the following days. Only try this if you can't remove the algae manually...by scrubbing with toothbrush or something. H2O2 is a moderately strong oxidizing agent and should be used as a last resort. When it works though, there's nothing sweeter than seeing BBA turn red and die off!

You might see better health in your plants if you overstocked your aquarium. Running such a lean tank(ammonia/nitrite/nitrate @ 0ppm) probably doesn't help your algae situation. More fauna=more nutrients and more CO2. It might be tricky to find a balance between enough fish to feed the plants but just add slowly until you find it.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> Removed the leaves that weren't improved by attempting to rub the algae off.
> 
> Wisteria is good for absorbing excess nutrients. It can be trained to remain small by pruining.



Ah, I see what you're saying. I think when I rescape I'm going to trim off 3-5" of the stem on the root side and replant that in my tank so manual removal of the algae should be much easier. The top portions I'm going to use in an emersed set-up, I think.

As for the wisteria, training it remain small is definitely a skill I'm going to have to acquire. I have no idea how to go about doing that, lol.


@Bluejack... thanks for the info. I'll keep it in mind if I need to go that route. Hopefully I'll be able to remove enough of what is left manually. The fishload will definitely get larger, I just haven't bothered to stock since I'm going to be adding a bunch more plants and moving the ones that are already in there.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

I had Wisteria in my 10 gallon with 1 18W T8 bulb and it stayed low. Thus it should stay low with 2 CFL bulbs.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Hilde said:


> I had Wisteria in my 10 gallon with 1 18W T8 bulb and it stayed low. Thus it should stay low with 2 CFL bulbs.



Thanks for the info... where to put it, though? hmmm....


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

I've finally managed to re-scape this tank... I started a proper journal here.

Come take a gander and give me your feed back.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

How about an update? How is the Cidex working? I just ran out of Excel and starting to use.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

Just updated here.

I'm using the metricide solution in my 10, 5 and 1 gallon tanks and the results in the 5 and 1 are exceptional. I have some good growth in the 10 also but I'm also having some serious BBA trouble in the 10.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

At dealmed.com Cidex is 3.4% alkaline glutaraldehyde selling for $22.82
Also there 1 gallon of Metricide 2.6% buffered glutaraldehyde selling for $18.20. The shipping for me is $9.99

I wonder what the difference is between alkaline and buffered solution affect in a planted tank? Which 1 is the cheapest after diluted in the long run?

Here Mathematically determined that Metricide is 60% stronger mL per mL. For Excel (1.5% Glut.) versus Metricide (2.5% Glut) Mathematically is 1.5/2.5=0.6 Thus wouldn't it best to to make solution 6 parts water and 1 part Metricide ?


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