# Always have algae on glass.



## Mattb126 (Nov 13, 2016)

How long has the tank been set up? I'm assuming it's diatoms if the algae is brown. 

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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

Mattb126 said:


> How long has the tank been set up? I'm assuming it's diatoms if the algae is brown.
> 
> Sent from my XT1650 using Tapatalk


Set up 11-24-2017. The algae is green and only on the glass. I battled hair algae in the beginning but got under control by adding more plants and lowering my light period. I wipe off this greenish yellow algea off the glass at least once a week but it just comes back. None on plants.

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## madcrafted (Dec 23, 2017)

Get a nerite or two. They love glass algae, with the excpetion of GSA. Or just leave it be for awhile and scrape it off. It'll die back soon enough. Tank isn't fully matured yet is all. Not bad thing to have some algae and bio film...especially for those shrimps.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

madcrafted said:


> Get a nerite or two. They love glass algae, with the excpetion of GSA. Or just leave it be for awhile and scrape it off. It'll die back soon enough. Tank isn't fully matured yet is all. Not bad thing to have some algae and bio film...especially for those shrimps.


Can't do a nerite as I have a pea puffer. Shrimp are gone too. 

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## splattered (Jun 7, 2017)

Nerites are way too big for a pea puff to do anything to. I even keep them with south american puffers. Only thing is if you get a pair they'll lay dormant eggs everywhere so just get one large one

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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

What are your phosphate levels like? When mine creep up I start seeing more and more GSA.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

MCFC said:


> What are your phosphate levels like? When mine creep up I start seeing more and more GSA.


Not sure. Should I invest in a test for phosphates?

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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

MCFC said:


> What are your phosphate levels like? When mine creep up I start seeing more and more GSA.


GSA shows up when phosphates are low not high.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

Nlewis said:


> GSA shows up when phosphates are low not high.




That has not been my experience. 


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

psalm18.2 said:


> Tank is 2.6g Fluval Spec 3.
> Substrate is Fluval stratum.
> Plants are stem plants and a java fern. Removing A R tomorrow. Light is standard light that came with kit on 1 hour in am and 6 hrs in pm. I dose .50ml Thrive once a week.
> Weekly water changes.
> ...


From the picture, it’s looks like you need to up your dosing. Algae thrives when nutrient levels are low. Id start by dosing twice a week for a few weeks and see where that gets you. As for the algae, if it’s green let it build up for a couple weeks. Then scrape it all off and do a big water change.


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## Surf (Jun 13, 2017)

> From the picture, it’s looks like you need to up your dosing. Algae thrives when nutrient levels are low. Id start by dosing twice a week for a few weeks and see where that gets you.


I would agree with that. Furthermore some of the leaves lookalike they have a hooked leaf tip. This is a common symptom of calcium deficiency. Most fertilizers don't have calcium. I would get a GH and KH test kit and test your water hardness. Then increase the hardness by 2 degrees GH using Sachem Equilibrium. Equilibrium contains Calcium, magnesium, sulfur, potassium, iron, and manganese. Plants need all of these. But it doesn't have all the other nutrients plants need. A good fertile like thrive (available at Nilocg.com) would take care off the remaining nutrients. 

When plants have all the nutrients they need to grow algae Tends to grow very slowly. Slow enough that one or two nerits should be able to keep most of the glass clean. Hair algae is good indication of very low nutrient levels in the water. GSA (hard green spot algae) is typically in indication of low phosphate levels in the tank. neuritis cannot remove GSAas rock because it is as hard as rock. Thrive should provide enough phosphate to prevent GSA. It is hard to tell but I think you have green slime algae on the glass. nerits would easily be able to remove it.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

The algae easily wipes off, I do it all the time with a sponge made for that. I use Thrive, 1 dose of .50ml once per week.
The a reneckii is now gone so I'll be only feeding the ludwigia, a few val and the java fern for now. I plan on adding more plants once I decide what to do in there. I'm against the nerite because I have the puffer who is aggressive towards snails.
I'll get my KH and GH numbers later today. 

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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

psalm18.2 said:


> The algae easily wipes off


If that's the case then it's likely GDA (green dust algae). GSA (green spot algae) is really hard and generally requires a razor blade to remove from the glass.


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## tamsin (Jan 12, 2011)

I would add in some floating plants. They'll reduce the light without you having to shorten the light period. That should help with algae. They will also let you assess the nutrients better, as they have free access to CO2 in the atmosphere and the light at the top of the tank, you can use them to judge your fert dosing. If they do well you know you have it right, if they look a bit sad you know you need to add a bit more ferts.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

Ok, my pH is 7.5, GH 10 drops, KH 4 drops, all others 0. I will dose Thrive again today to try and get those nitrates up.
Might mention I did a 100% PWC 2 days ago. Kept media wet.

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## Surf (Jun 13, 2017)

A GH of 10 at first glance would appear to be OK. But the GH test doesn't tell you if it is mix of magnesium/ calcium (which is best) or mostly calcium (which is bad). If you continue to see evidence of calcium or magnesium deficiency try adding a GH booster such as Sachem Equilibrium. if you increase your GH from 10 to 12 it might be enough to eliminate a calcium or magnesium deficiency. Equilibrium also adds sulfur, manganese and iron all of which are also plant nutrients. Also you don't want to see nitrate at zero. You should try to kept between 5 and 15ppm.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

So I did a 100% water change and took out the Fluval Substrate. Added the tank lid back on to diffuse the light some. This was done on 4/1. Dosing Thrive 3x a week. No algae yet. I really think the substrate was a contributing factor. My pH is back to normal now too at 7.5. No ammonia, NO2, and NO3 <5. Will post pic Monday as I don't have my phone at the moment.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

So it's been 11 days since the big water change and substrate removal. I have zero algae in the tank. I did increase my nitrate by upping my Thrive dose to .50ml almost daily. I'm going back to dosing Thrive 3x a week as per directions and hoping for the best.

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## Vinster8108 (Sep 1, 2016)

I struggled with Algae and my Spec III as well. I paintball CO2 system really help me, dosing excel may help as well. Floating plants go a long was as well. If possible, raise the light up some (hang it somehow). Those LEDs throw a surprising amount of light, personally I don't think it's the best color temp for a planted tank, but it is doable.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

And the algae is starting to come back. Just a tiny spot at this point. Water change is tomorrow so I'll just wipe it off.


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

So I went on vacation and did a one week black out. Plants did well and algae was gone. One week of lights on and algae is starting again in spots on glass. I'm at a loss here as to what to do now. I only run the lights from 4pm to 9:30pm. Not even a full 8 hours.

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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

Here's more pics of the algae.
I've added more plants hoping this helps.























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## Subconfish (May 10, 2018)

I had algae on the glass, I used otos. They work wonderful but starve after it is gone. Now I just lower the intensity of light. That seems to work


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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

Can't do Ottos tank is too small.
I added CO2 to see if that helps. Oh and the original tank broke so I have another Spec 3 with the same light and pump. Probably get more diatoms as this tank needs to cycle. 

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## Surf (Jun 13, 2017)

> I added CO2 to see if that helps.


 Is that a pressure tank of CO2 gas or a bottle of a liquid is not under pressure? If it is CO2 gas it will lower your tank PH. Some fertilizers work best when the PH is between 6 and 6.5. So if does cause a PH drop it may help your aquarium. 

So since 4/5/18 you have done water changes, a blackout, and changed the dose of Thrive. Without affect. Have you tried adding a sulfate GH booster Like I recommended earlier? Sachem Equilibrium would be a good thing to try now.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

tamsin said:


> I would add in some floating plants. They'll reduce the light without you having to shorten the light period. That should help with algae. They will also let you assess the nutrients better, as they have free access to CO2 in the atmosphere and the light at the top of the tank, you can use them to judge your fert dosing. If they do well you know you have it right, if they look a bit sad you know you need to add a bit more ferts.


Excellent advise/suggestion.:wink2:


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## splattered (Jun 7, 2017)

Some algae is healthy and natural. Scrape it off the viewing pane/s as part of your routine maintenance. Most fish eat some algae from time to time. I know it's not aesthetically pleasing but trying to eradicate it can just cause stressful swings and I don't personally think it's worth it

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## psalm18.2 (Oct 16, 2010)

Surf said:


> Is that a pressure tank of CO2 gas or a bottle of a liquid is not under pressure? If it is CO2 gas it will lower your tank PH. Some fertilizers work best when the PH is between 6 and 6.5. So if does cause a PH drop it may help your aquarium.
> 
> So since 4/5/18 you have done water changes, a blackout, and changed the dose of Thrive. Without affect. Have you tried adding a sulfate GH booster Like I recommended earlier? Sachem Equilibrium would be a good thing to try now.


Pressure tank of CO2. I have not added Equilibrium as of yet. I started a new tank so we'll see what happens now. (Old tank broke, new glass tank, lights, pump all the same).

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