# CO2 working pressure



## dcutl002 (Apr 8, 2014)

I run mine at 45 psi. Just make sure you have good tubing and not the cheap stuff. I get my tubing from Green Leaf Aquariums.


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## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

What type of reactor are you using? I would guess something like a reactor/atomizer combo if you need that amount of PSI. I know with my Rex Griggs 10 PSI is more than enough. It really depends on your equipment and there is no right answer.

Dan


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

aja31 said:


> Finally I increased the working pressure to 50 psi and now it performs as expected. I get nice constant flow, good adjustment with my needle valve and stable ph drop throughout the day.
> 
> Is there a problem with running at 50 psi? Will I blow through CO2 crazy fast? Any suggestions on why I need to have it turned up so high to get flow through my regulator?


Only bubble cout counts.. Pressure is not important really..
As to your psi.. Could have a bad lp gauge.. If "open ended" reactor any pressure greater than cracking pressure of a check valve and possibly pressure drop due to solenoid/needle valve should work..
all those considered 10psi should be enough though some check valves can get "sticky" at lp..

Even if running an atomizer inside you should not need more than about 35-40psi..
Only problem w/ 50psi would be fittings and hose limits..


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## aja31 (May 25, 2013)

Yeah I just have a Rexx Griggs reactor, no atomizer. Everything is holding up fine, no problems with tubing or fittings, just a little odd. If it isn't a problem I won't worry about it, like you said might be a gauge problem. We'll see how long my tank lasts, I might investigate further once its empty and I have to disconnect it.


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Mine runs at 55psi with no issues. Single stage so cannot adjust but I have no issues with it at that pressure. I use co2 proof tubing now but was using regular airline tubing before with no issues. It feeds my reactor. I just make sure everything is really secure and tight. The bps and everything stays consistent and stable. 

I wonder if something may have a bit of debree in it or something causing you to have to run more psi like that? 

One more thing. You will not use more co2. Same amount of bps so not more co2 regardless. 

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## NightHedgie (Mar 17, 2017)

U could try testing without the reactor. Just the regulator and the bubble counter.. Coz sometimes u get dodgy check valves, or too many check valves, blocked tubing, blocked fittings.. Etc 

Then, if with just the bubble counter and at 10 psi u get bubbles. Then keep adding on the tubing, fittings till the bubble stops, then you'll know where the blockage is. 

I had a similar problem, mine was a dodgy check valve. 

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## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

+1 ^^^ if no atomizer and using a rex griggs, I would say there is an issue somewhere and likely a check valve.

Dan


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

This comment may or may not help, but figured I would offer anyway. The Griggs and Cerges reactors basically have an open tube going into the reactor. This amounts to a 0 psi resistance. If you were to remove your reactor, drain all the water and then turn on your co2, it should only take about 1 psi to make your bubble counter work. Now, once installed in *your* system the co2 system must now compensate for water head pressure, pressure generated by your return pump (canister or sump). I am running an Eheim Pro 4 which does not put out much pressure. I am running 20 psi and that is plenty. I likely could turn it down to 10psi but never felt the need.
Now, in your case I seem to remember you are running a sump. Without digging too far back in your build threat I will assume you have your reactor between your sump return pump and the return point in the tank (spray bar, nozzles, open tube, whatever). If that is a correct statement, then how much pressure your pump puts out will effect your co2 pressure. If you are running a spray bar with smaller holes to generate more surface motion, you could be generating more internal water pressure at the reactor (again needing more co2 pressure).
Do I truly believe you need 50 psi co2 to compensate for existing internal water pressure, no. Could your pressure gauge be a bit faulty, maybe. Could your check valve be installed backwards and it took 50psi to break thru, maybe. Or your system just needs 50psi and I typed a bunch of words for nothing LOL. Hope the above helps in some way.


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