# Fluval 3.0



## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

What would this light be classed as, low med high light? Rates are 168 LEDs, 32 W, 2350 lm, 6500 K
I have a 140liter 
Thank you  

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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi @Cookie30196992,

Welcome to TPT!

What are the dimensions of your 140 liter?


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Hi  
H55 x W92 x D41 cm[censored]

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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Looking to upgrade my set up from low to hight tech with better lights and pressurized co2 

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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi @Cookie30196992,

Sorry, American so I had to convert to inches. The tank is about 21 inches tall, with substrate probably 19" from the rim of the tank to the substrate. With the Fluval 3.0 at full output is would 'guesstimate' your PAR levels at:

Directly under light [email protected]
At back glass (blk background) [email protected]
At front glass [email protected]
At side glass [email protected]

I would put that in the medium - high light category. With those PAR levels, and CO2, you should be able to grow most species.


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## SKYE.__.HIGH (Mar 18, 2017)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @Cookie30196992,
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I would also add, this particular led has customizable RGB and spectrum. So your ability to grow plants will most likely be easier with this model than it’s stronger earlier model.


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Thanks for getting back to me 

Can I just ask where you got the par readings from ? 

Also I measured from the substrate to the water line and it 16inches and then about 1.5inchs to the light 

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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi @Cookie30196992,

I took the readings using a Apogee 510 PAR Meter, calibrated within the last 12 months. I used my Fluval 2.0 fixture on a 75 gallon (21.25" high) in a tank filled with water and covered with an Aqueon glass cover (which reduces PAR by about 10%). The Fluval 3.0 is an excellent product, much more versatile, with more red LEDs which I would prefer. The red LED's have a 'shorter wavelength' than white or blue LEDs so the Fluval 3.0 PAR readings are likely equivalent to my 2.0 with the glass cover.


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Alright didn't realise you have the lighting I thought you took it from a website thanks you again 

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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

I have a Fluval 3.0 on my 40 breeder and own a Seneye PAR meter. Just to add onto the info @Seattle_Aquarist has given you, from substrate to light - approximately 14.5 inches, directly under the light, I was getting a reading of 114 PAR at full intensity. The extra 4.5-5 inches in height you're dealing with, I'd wager, would give you the 75ish PAR that Seattle is saying.


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## JJBTEXAS (Jul 8, 2013)

Cookie30196992 said:


> Hi
> H55 x W92 x D41 cm[censored]


BTW, those dimensions are much closer to 200 liters


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Thank you and the dia are of the outside the tank, I measured the liters of water by filling the tank with 10liter buckets 14 times 

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## JJBTEXAS (Jul 8, 2013)

Cookie30196992 said:


> Thank you and the dia are of the outside the tank, I measured the liters of water by filling the tank with 10liter buckets 14 times
> 
> Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk


Most companies sell them by the external dimensions unfortunately. Have you already scaped the tank? Even with 2cm thick glass all around it should still be more than 160 before scaping. Either way, I have a Fluval 3.0 on the 65 gallon I just set up (it has similar dimensions to yours, but is a little deeper). No results to report yet but the eye test would put it about medium light towards the front and back, high in the middle.


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Yeah I have scaped it with quite a few big pieces of dragon stone, I have the light coming tomorrow cant wait to set it up 

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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Right boys and girl

My light has come and set up love the light

The only thing is I had to get the 32w one for the size off my tank and it fits but the actual lighting unit is too small all four corners and dim.

I did size the next size up and it wouldn't fit 

I have kept my original light on aswell Its a 14w fluval that came with the tank dont know any other details about it because there isn't any, it's on a timer for when the 32w has fully ramp up and set to shut off when it's starting to ramp down 

Would this setup work or not ? 

Thank you 



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## brothermichigan (Sep 5, 2017)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> The red LED's have a 'shorter wavelength' than white or blue LEDs...


*longer wavelength, lower frequency

/physicist ()


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

I do something like that on 2 different tanks, it works fine.


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

thank you 

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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Sorry another question 

I want my light on for 10hiurs for the plant would this include sun rise and sunset ? Or just when its fully ramp up 

Thank you

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## evil8 (Aug 7, 2018)

I put one these ( the 36" one ) on my birthday list for the middle of next month. My gf said she would get it for me! This will go on my standard 45 gallon aquarium. My question though, will keeping my existing light (for the brightest time of day) be too much light. The existing light is the Fluval Aquasky 2.0. It's the one that comes with a remote ( no BT smartphone connection - no ramp up/down ). I do have CO2 and a fair amount of new plants.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Cookie30196992 said:


> Sorry another question
> 
> I want my light on for 10hiurs for the plant would this include sun rise and sunset ? Or just when its fully ramp up
> 
> ...


Hi @Cookie30196992,

When setting up a new tank I like to slowly ramp-up the photoperiod. I would suggest doing about 6 hours at full output to start, maybe 1 hour sunset and sunrise on each side. Run it that way for a couple of weeks and see how much algae forms (if any). If it is minimal or just slight, then try 6.5 hours plus a 1 hour sunset / sunrise. If after two week algae still is not an issue add another 1/2 hour to the full output photoperiod. Do that until algae becomes an issue then back off either 1/2 or 1 hour.


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## Cookie30196992 (Feb 4, 2019)

Thank you  

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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

I bought three of the Fluval Plant Nanos, which was probably more than I needed for my low-tech 20 gallon.

I tried this technique for a siesta: 




I decided I wanted to be able to tune my colors without playing with a timer, so I am currently running my center light at about 40% for a 07:00 - 13:00 morning cycle, with a four-hour siesta, then the left and right lights at 20% each from 18:00 - 23:00.

Center:

Sunrise: 07:00 - 08:00
Daylight: Pink: 30%, Blue: 02%, Cold White: 40%, Pure White: 40%, Warm White: 40%
Sunset: 12:00 - 13:00
Night: Pink: 00%, Blue: 01%, Cold White: 00%, Pure White: 00%, Warm White: 00%

Left & Right

Sunrise: 17:00 - 18:00
Daylight: Pink: 15%, Blue: 01%, Cold White: 20%, Pure White: 20%, Warm White: 20%
Sunset: 22:00 - 23:00
Night: Pink: 00%, Blue: 00%, Cold White: 00%, Pure White: 00%, Warm White: 00%

I would love to hear what other people are using for settings on these lights.

Cheers,

Jason


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## Mike A. (Jan 6, 2018)

Streetwise said:


> I bought three of the Fluval Plant Nanos, which was probably more than I needed for my low-tech 20 gallon...


Yeah, three is a bunch for a low-tech 20 with the plants that I see. You definitely could get away with less. But if it works for you and gets you good tank coverage what the heck. I run a single on 10 gallon near-cube @ 50% white lights w/ CO2 and moderate fertilization. Just about perfect for that tank I think. Turns into a jungle in about a week if I don't trim it back. Rather than a 'siesta' on most of my tanks with the Fluval 3s I run longer, slower ramps instead. The Fluval software makes that easy to do and kind of turns a typical siesta approach inside out so to speak. Essentially I'm doing sort of the same thing that you're doing with your lower light settings on your two outside lights via the ramps with my main period being similar to your center at the higher setting. If that makes any sense...


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Those nanos look really good! Any idea on the PAR they’re throwing?


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## Mike A. (Jan 6, 2018)

varanidguy said:


> Those nanos look really good! Any idea on the PAR they’re throwing?


Haven't measured it but they're 15 watts/63 LED/1,000 lumen so not huge. Call it ballpark ~50-ish @ 12"? The older version was an 8 watt light, different LEDs, tested ~30 @ 12". This one is quite a bit brighter and likely more efficient LEDs so I'd say that's a reasonable guesstimate at least.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

Mike A. said:


> Haven't measured it but they're 15 watts/63 LED/1,000 lumen so not huge. Call it ballpark ~50-ish @ 12"? The older version was an 8 watt light, different LEDs, tested ~30 @ 12". This one is quite a bit brighter and likely more efficient LEDs so I'd say that's a reasonable guesstimate at least.




Hmm. My Seneye has the 36” Fluval 3.0 @ 114 tested ~14.5”. Curious if the nano stacks up to its full size counterparts.


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## Mike A. (Jan 6, 2018)

varanidguy said:


> Hmm. My Seneye has the 36” Fluval 3.0 @ 114 tested ~14.5”. Curious if the nano stacks up to its full size counterparts.


No, have both. The Nano is much smaller (obviously) and not as much light as the longer bars. The 36" looks to be 46 watts/252 LEDs/3,300 lumen.

Nice lights though. I like mine a lot for where I have it. Both run from the same app.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

I've tweaked my settings since my last post. I now have the following:

Center Light:

Sunrise: 07:00-08:00
Daylight:

Pink: 049%, Blue: 001%, Cold White: 068%, Pure White: 080%, Warm White: 100%

Sunset: 12:00 - 13:00
Night: Blue 001%

Left/Right Lights:

Sunrise: 17:00 - 18:00
Daylight:

Pink: 050%, Blue: 003%, Cold White: 050%, Pure White: 040%, Warm White: 033%

Sunset: 22:00 - 23:00
Night: 000%

I also added another MF-10 filter under my middle light, and set it on a timer so it only runs during the peak light periods for all lights, so one four-hour morning cycle, and one four-hour evening cycle. I like using both lights and flow for my daily cycles.

Cheers


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

Mike A. said:


> Yeah, three is a bunch for a low-tech 20 with the plants that I see. You definitely could get away with less. But if it works for you and gets you good tank coverage what the heck. I run a single on 10 gallon near-cube @ 50% white lights w/ CO2 and moderate fertilization. Just about perfect for that tank I think. Turns into a jungle in about a week if I don't trim it back. Rather than a 'siesta' on most of my tanks with the Fluval 3s I run longer, slower ramps instead. The Fluval software makes that easy to do and kind of turns a typical siesta approach inside out so to speak. Essentially I'm doing sort of the same thing that you're doing with your lower light settings on your two outside lights via the ramps with my main period being similar to your center at the higher setting. If that makes any sense...


I got inspired by your post to try something different, with a different sunrise and sunset so the light moves across the tank throughout the day.

My right side is my east.

R 06:30 - 08:30 | 08:30 - 10:00 | 10:00 - 12:00
C 11:00 - 13:00 | 13:00 - 14:30 | 14:30 - 16:00
L 15:30 - 17:30 | 17:30 - 19:00 | 19:00 - 21:00

Pink: 40%, Blue: 03%, Cold White: 50%, Pure White: 60%, Warm White: 33%


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

I've adjusted my levels up a little bit since the last post. I also pulled my heater about the same time I started this cycle. I've seen the temp go from 80 to 70, but it now varies with the room a bit. The temp drop has helped with algae levels. Interestingly, I have seen two batches of eggs laid on crypt leaves within the last week. The tank inhabitants seem to love having a lit portion and a shadowed portion, while the plants each get about equal light, but at different times.

My Apex EL is showing up tomorrow, so I want to try integrating my foam filter/powerheads into the light cycle.

Cheers

BTW, I have an iPhone XS, and my aquarium videos seem to have better everything than my photos. Is there a photo setting I need to try?


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