# Long hair algae



## kittenfish (Feb 6, 2014)

For starters I would up the dose of nitrates. Only having nitrogen available every other day can't be good for your plants.


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## RomansFiveEight (Jun 21, 2012)

kittenfish said:


> For starters I would up the dose of nitrates. Only having nitrogen available every other day can't be good for your plants.


I'm concerned about my RCS which I know are sensitive to Nitrate poisoning. Should I be?

Every other day is standard-operating-procedure for EI dosing. As I understand it, something in the day 1 dosing doesn't mix well with something in the day 2 dosing.


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

*Algae Control*

Hello Rom...

Algae has to eat, so if you provide a variety through plant ferts, fish food and small water changes every week or two and everything isn't eaten, then algae has a perfect environment to grow, because there's leftover nutrients.

I have never had a lot of algae in my tanks. My guess the reasons are large, weekly water changes of at least 50 to 60 percent of the tank water, lots of floating plants like Anacharis and Hornwort, a healthy population of Ramshorn snails and Pleco fish. There's not much for algae to eat and the fish and snails remove what's there. 

Check out the Foster and Smith aquarium site and read what they do to control algae. They've been in the tank business for some time and have good information.

B


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

A full tank picture will go a long way in helping here. I already suspect slow current as most of the problem. Higher light being almost essential to algae start up, and that being present by virtue of either just a high level of or an extended amount of condition.
That algae which you have is present in a river that is near me. Only in a cove that has
limited current, it only happens in the spring time. Also only happens after lots of days of intense sunlight. Then it goes away eventually. Looks like silk, feels slimy and has almost no solid feel if you try to pick it up.
People who are shrimp keepers have different tank water changes that other tank people so consulting them about the nitrates is in order here.
But regular planted tank owners who also keep shrimp have 10-20PPM for nitrates and say it's best for the plants. So after you place a thread about the nitrates in the Shrimp
section and find it to be acceptable you might alter your fert content with more KNO3 to raise the nitrates. I just would not do it in one change, but rather at least two of them.
The statement "heavily planted" leads me to think the current is on the lower side.
A change in the discharge of you water flow in from the filter may solve this if possible from your filter. If not a Hydor Koralia 425/565 might be what you will need.
Water Pumps & Wavemakers: Hydor Koralia Nano 240 & 425
The leaf yellowing likely is adjustment oriented because of the light hr change.
Wouldn't concern myself unless it gets extensive/continues.
But before I'd spend I might just change something/w your lights to see if expenses can be spared. Better/longer overall viewing goes/w this.
Use 9 hrs, but...4 in the A.M. and add a no light period of not less than four hrs and then light on for five more hrs in the P.M.
Example: 1/2 hr before you get up and on for 4 hrs. Then say at 3-5 P.M. back on for 5 hrs. You can run the CO2 from 1/2 hr before the first light on time till half hr before the last light on period stops. Algae can't store energy near as well as other plants do so
it breaks up their growth time too much for it to handle well.
Unless you have a Coralife light fixture, your light is higher than what is needed for that size tank. This is a controlable factor in this issue. I suggested 9 hrs on the light to help the transition from the 12 hrs. It may need to be cut to 8 eventually. I have one T5HO bulb on a 10g and need it to have only 7.5 hrs algae related. I run 7 hrs @ 3.5+4 hrs later in the P.M.


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## RomansFiveEight (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks for the info! I actually have one of the AquaTraders fixture; close bulbs with poor reflectors. It's actually a 4 bulb fixture but I only use two. I'm going to try the solution you suggested!

Current is provided by a Cascade 1000 canister filter; one that's pretty oversized for the tank. Rated for 125 gallons; 265gph. The outflow tube is located in the right corner of the tank pointed at an angle. There's enough current that plants sway to and fro but I am certainly not opposed to adding a powerhead!

I don't have algae in any of my other tanks, so this IS frustrating! I appreciate the help. I've never really had a problem with algae and I attribute that to my large water changes as well. Generally 70% or so a week. But elsewhere in the forum I was told to cut back on water changes due to some RCS deaths. (But, this algae has been there before I cut back on w/c's, like I said; it's been there since I started the tank and just comes back every single day)

So I'm gonna bump up the Nitrates, break up the lighting, (I AM running 8hrs of light like I said in the OP; I WAS running 12, no change when reducing the photoperiod), and keep manually removing!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

(Slight intentional poke in the ribs) Still no full tank picture...up to you of course.
If all +/- of the plants are in motion then current is not as much of THE factor that you
need deal/w. That necessarily turns that focus to the light intensity. And BTW GSA algae responds(frequently) to raising the PO4 level from a stock fert dose level to a higher level.
You might visit a couple of the GSA threads to see about it/the levels and how to's.
Most algae's have their own remedies but a couple of those do cross occur.
Splitting that photo period seems the least likely to offend the plants yet the more likely to effect the algae at this point. Results will be slow in coming, so a minimum of a
week for it to show effects is expected. The algae(any) can adapt to changes in light to some extent. That is why you didn't see results from 12 down to 8 hrs as 8 hrs can maintain it. But that split is usually more than it can adapt to. Still slow to die off.
There is a temporary "fix" but why use it if the cause is still there. I tend to write books in here so I'll end after this...
I do algae in my tanks intentionally. Those kinds which I have or had I know how to deal/w. It took me over two years to regulate(LOL) GSA algae in
my tank. On the rocks/wood, but not the glass. That was the goal. I had that kind you have in the beginning phases of that learning process.
It was a lighting issue. Way in excess. Wouldn't label it as extreme, but two T5HO bulbs in a 29g is still excess.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Can take a few week's after reduced lighting before effect's are noticed with respect to the algae.
If dosing EI,then adopt dosing scheme for next size larger tank,(google EI dosing formula's) while keeping CO2 same.
Would want CO2 to come on one hour before light's on, and go off one hour before light's off.
Lot's of folk's keep shrimp with full EI dosing with fishes and shrimp as well.
Lot's of folk's claim to be dosing EI as per formula's for their size tank, but sometimes,,,they are all over the place with their dosing rather than following EI suggested formula.
Other's buy the dry fertz and call it EI dosing.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

+1 for roadmaster...
solid/dependable replies...
I use this solution formula slightly modified and one dose per week due to absence 
of injected CO2.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...697-dry-dosing-nutrient-solution-recipes.html


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## ppp (Sep 2, 2015)

I had a similar problem on a much larger scale in my koi pond (2500gals). Barley extract helped eradicated the hair algae. Not sure if same would apply to display tanks


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## RomansFiveEight (Jun 21, 2012)

Raymond S. said:


> (Slight intentional poke in the ribs) Still no full tank picture...up to you of course.
> If all +/- of the plants are in motion then current is not as much of THE factor that you
> need deal/w. That necessarily turns that focus to the light intensity. And BTW GSA algae responds(frequently) to raising the PO4 level from a stock fert dose level to a higher level.
> You might visit a couple of the GSA threads to see about it/the levels and how to's.
> ...


Full tank pic coming; I'm not home (at the office) atm; will take full tank pic later today!

I'll remove one of the T5 bulbs. Would a single T5HO still work well then?

I actually have 10 hours of 2x T5HO lighting in my unplanted 75g tank (I realize that's a lot more water than a 29g and much deeper; but it's also more wattage) and have no algae issues (and nothing that eats algae in the tank). Some algae on the glass, easily removed once a week or so. And some small amounts of algae on rocks and driftwood; which I actually like, and just trim back when needed (once every 3-4 months or so). 



roadmaster said:


> Can take a few week's after reduced lighting before effect's are noticed with respect to the algae.
> If dosing EI,then adopt dosing scheme for next size larger tank,(google EI dosing formula's) while keeping CO2 same.
> Would want CO2 to come on one hour before light's on, and go off one hour before light's off.
> Lot's of folk's keep shrimp with full EI dosing with fishes and shrimp as well.
> ...


Can you help me understand the "buy the dry fertz[sic] and call it EI dosing." statement? I am using dry fertilizers, it was literally marketed as an "EI Dosing Package" from Green Leaf Aquariums. I found some various patterns on the internet but I ultimately decided to just go with the dosing regimen on the label of the fertilizers, which I follow and dose each day at the same time. I have a small dish I fill with aquarium water, add the fertilizers, stir, and then pour into the tank. The fertilizers do not entirely come into solution with just stirring but it gets the job done. I'll certainly try bumping up to the next dosing regimen, but I'm curious if there's something I need to be doing different because I'm using dry fertilizers.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Sure he will let you know, but I do believe that the kind from GLA are not included in his statement. My LFS has some dry ferts that the owner highly recommends but he is so tempermental that I was reluctant to pursue the matter any farther/w him. I did see it and noticed that it had no content label on it. Nuf said for me. Any of like ferts that have all one color bead in the package are pre made of questionable nutrient content.
Not the least of which is you lack of ability to adjust them.
GLA, nilocg and other sell EI ferts in the for sale section.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...quid-ferts|cholla-wood|ials|hc|ug|others.html


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## RomansFiveEight (Jun 21, 2012)

Raymond S. said:


> Sure he will let you know, but I do believe that the kind from GLA are not included in his statement. My LFS has some dry ferts that the owner highly recommends but he is so tempermental that I was reluctant to pursue the matter any farther/w him. I did see it and noticed that it had no content label on it. Nuf said for me. Any of like ferts that have all one color bead in the package are pre made of questionable nutrient content.
> Not the least of which is you lack of ability to adjust them.
> GLA, nilocg and other sell EI ferts in the for sale section.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...quid-ferts|cholla-wood|ials|hc|ug|others.html


What you linked is similar to what I'm using, just in round containers.


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## RomansFiveEight (Jun 21, 2012)

And here's your full tank pic! Hope you weren't expecting a big beautiful aquascape! (More like a fledgling newly planted tank!)


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

OK plant mass being now known, not trying to critique the scape...
Low plant mass part of the problem.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...ants-sale-lots-species-free-shipping-$30.html
In a back corner try to get Rotala R from the bottom of this list. About 12-15 stems but 
10 will work also. Plant at least 1.5" apart Grows easily. You will get good benefits if you add one Wisteria for the other corner but it will eventually take up that whole corner. Suggest you plant it 6x6 from that end/back. If you cut off every other new leaf it will take much longer to get big. Can overwhelm a 29g. But you have enough light to grow the Bacopa C. plant in there and get some good color from it. Still suggest a back corner. As an alternative to the Wisteria BTW. 2 or 3 stems can become 10 over time.
I think you will be kind of low on light if you remove a bulb. I'd just go/w the split time at first for at least a month. A cheap baby bottle brush from Wally world will allow you to twirl it and pick up lots of that algae at one time.
You just really need more plants to soak up all the energy that the light is giving to the tank. If plants don't algae will. A slow process to get this in gear so be patient.
Later when my Crypt Petchii grows a new plant that is farther from the mother plant so I won't be afraid to cut it out I'll send you one for that open aria in the right front.
Good color difference and stays about 5" or less. Wendtii gets about 7/8 or 9" tall but almost that same diameter. Petchii is much smaller but a darker green. Free of course.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

This is the Petchii in my 10g tank. The one in the front just went to someone as an ROAK sort of. I just put it in the plant section and said it goes to the first to show an interest in it along/w a couple of other plants.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/images/pGallery/pg_12001e.jpg
Just in case you aren't aware of what they look like, there are two obvious ones with two babies close to each mother plant. On the right in front of the Rotala is the biggest one.


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## RomansFiveEight (Jun 21, 2012)

Thanks Raymond. I may try to snap some more pics; there's no room in the back corner; for one. The plants back there are shorter though. I need to do some re-arranging. I bought a bunch of plants from a forum member and they were all the same height; since I didn't know what most of them were, I planted them as best I knew how to. I need to re-arrange and put some of those shorter plants up front, etc. 

And the open area in the front was something I was wanting to remain open; carpeted with the clover at the bottom. 

But I'll definitely consider adding more plants!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Clover sound nice in there. After a few moves of some things you may find room in a corner yet. The Rotala R. is only one good easy to grow stem type that would run up to the top to cover more of the height as the 29g does have some that shorter tanks don't.
Tops turn pink in your level of light also. But do put the shorter ones in front of the taller ones. I imagine that whole corner/w the wood is mostly filled up. The clover may look good in front of it also.


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