# Nitrate Level 0ppm..



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Unless you calibrate your nitrate test kit, you can't be at all sure how much, if any, nitrate you have in the water. If this is a high light tank, with good CO2, then it is much more important to always have an adequate amount of nitrates in the water, than if it is a low light tank, non-CO2. What is your aquarium setup like - lights, CO2, tank dimensions, etc?


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

Thanks for the reply! 

well im using the API Freshwater Master Kit for testing.. I thought that was good enough? I verified at my local LFS 2 days ago and they had the same readings I am getting..

My tank is over in the low tech forum, but it's a 29 gallon, lightly-medium planted tank. 58 watts of T8 lighting about ~20 inches from the substrate. It's currently 3 bulbs with aluminum reflectors. And i've dosing the flourish line of nutrients per their recommended chart. I dose excel, nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium, flourish comprehensive, and iron.

Plants are:
2 Anubius Nana
~6 Wisteria
~6 Bacopa
2 Amazon swords
and some Marimbo balls

Fauna:
9 guppies (1 adult, 8 fry)
8 Cories
8 Harlequin Rasbora's

PH 7.5
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0


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## Nue (Dec 27, 2009)

Hoppy is the nitrate masta!

check this out
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/f...83545-calibrating-test-kits-non-chemists.html

KNO3 you can buy at Home Depot, its Tree Sump Remover. 100% KNO3. You can also use that to dose your tank nitrate.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

That is a low light, non-CO2 tank, so the fish waste may be providing adequate nitrate. What ever the fish supply the plants will quicky use, so a zero reading on nitrate isn't unusual. Instead of watching the nitrate level, watch how well the plants grow. If they are slowly growing, but growing well, I wouldn't worry about nitrate at all. And, if they seem to not be doing as well as you hoped, I think I would go with substrate fertilizer tablets or capsules before trying to dose the water.


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

ah i've always used root tabs, forgot about those :x

And the plants have been growing seemingly well since i started dosing, they definitely look better than when i didn't, just wasn't sure if i *needed* to get my nitrates up to 5-10ppm in order for the plants to reach the most benefit from it or if it's completely fine with them being at 0ppm and getting the standard dose of nitrogen every 3 days..


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## wkndracer (Mar 14, 2009)

*Disappearing NO3*

(Just to share info) My first stage quarantine tank is a heavily planted 20g long. Lighting is a cheap single bulb Marineland F18T8. Timer runs the light for 10hrs daily. Filter is a HOB Marineland 280 bio wheel. 
Currently it has water sprite, dwarf chain swords and a bowling ball size clump of java fern in it along with crypts. 
Stocked right now with 19 panda cory's and 25 Otto's that I purchased on 10/26/10.
While I test nitrite and ammonia daily as I do the med cycles to clear the fish I only test nitrates when doing my other tanks.
NO3 by test date; 10/21=20ppm (dosed), 10/31=10ppm, 11/6=15, 11/14=10, today 5ppm

Even with a large fish load and poor lighting having fast growing plants they can remove NO3 from the water column.
Like Nue posted if your test kits are good you need to add NO3. While Seachem may sell quality products shipped with lots of water there are safe and WAY cheaper ways to add what your plants need.

Hope my post makes sense.
I keep all my tanks reading positive results.
PO4 1-2ppm, NO3 8-30ppm(Average range is 10-20ppm)


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

Thanks for the info! Definitely what I figured/was looking for


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Just don't assume that either your test kit or the LFS test kit is accurate unless calibrated. I can recall many times when people have reported odd nitrate test results and tried all sorts of fixes for it, only to finally give in and try to calibrate the test kit, only to find that it is extremely inaccurate. It isn't hard to do a crude calibration and find out if your kit is even usable. A new test kit isn't necessarily usable.


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

I will definitely try and get it calibrated then


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

well this is interesting.. I haven't really had a chance to get the Master Kit calibrated yet, but I did try one of those bs Test Strips.. and it says i'm hovering around 30ppm nitrate! while the master kit still says bright yellow(0ppm)!.

I've just been following the regular flourish schedule but with that reading, i think i'm going to stop dosing nitrogen for awhile and do a water change or two while i get this kit calibrated.. Would a ppm meter work for testing any of the readings we take?


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

I would calibrate the liquid test kit first, by making several reference solutions. Those test strips are more notoriously inaccurate than the liquid test kits.

There are electronic metres for various things that we measure, but they are often beyond the price range of a typical hobbyist.


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## mattycakesclark (Jun 11, 2010)

HolyAngel said:


> ...Would a ppm meter work for testing any of the readings we take?





Darkblade48 said:


> I would calibrate the liquid test kit first, by making several reference solutions. Those test strips are more notoriously inaccurate than the liquid test kits.
> 
> There are electronic metres for various things that we measure, but they are often beyond the price range of a typical hobbyist.


$180 : http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.c...03csegb&ref=3312&subref=AA&CAWELAID=529166356

$400++++ : http://www.hach.com/hc/search.produ...Label=Nitrate,+Pocket+Colorimeter+II+Test+Kit 

Photometers are nice, if you know someone in the wastewater or water field get them to help. But most nitrate photometers use a cadmium reduction method, which the reagents are extremely toxic (cadmium) to aquatic life, and are harmful to to human also.
I take my water samples to work, I don't even get the kit or sample cells close to my aquarium


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

well i have a friend who happens to have a hydroponic ppm meter, and just wondered off hand if that would show nitrate or nitrogen ppm's of the tank. 

Other than that, yes, definitely going to calibrate this test kit, seems odd the massive variance between the results from the two different test kits.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

+1 with Hoppy, calibration is a really good idea!

Also, it helps to read the instructions! Here is my experience!

Hi xxxxxxxxxx,

I had the same problem and couldn't figure out why I could not get a reading. I even went so far as to add NO3 to the test tube and test....still 0 ppm! I bought fresh KNO3.....still 0 ppm. Finally I called API customer service and got the answer, and did I feel foolish!

The problem was me and not following the instructions. Prior to the test I shook up the two bottles of reagents to make sure they were well mixed then I thought I followed the instructions but I was messing up on a couple of the steps!

API Nitrate Test Instructions:

Directions for Testing Nitrate:

* Read thoroughly before testing. Do not allow Test Solutions to get into aquarium.
* To remove childproof safety cap: With one hand, push red tab left with thumb while unscrewing cap with free hand.
o Fill a clean test tube with 5 ml of water to be tested (to the line on the tube).
o Add 10 drops from Nitrate Test Solution Bottle # 1, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops added to the water sample.
o Cap the test tube and invert tube several times to mix solution. Do not hold finger over the open end of the tube, as this may affect test results.
o Vigorously shake the Nitrate Test Solution Bottle # 2 for at least 30 seconds. This step is extremely important to insure accuracy of test results.
o Now add 10 drops from Nitrate Test Solution Bottle #2, holding dropper bottle upside down in a completely vertical position to assure uniformity of drops to the water sample.
o Cap the test tube and shake vigorously for one minute. This step is extremely important to insure accuracy of test results.
o Wait five minutes for the color to develop.
o Read the test results by matching the color of the solution against those on the Nitrate Test Color Chart. The tube should be viewed against the white area beside the color chart. Color comparisons are best made in a well-lit area. The closest match indicates the ppm (mg/L) of nitrate in the water sample. Rinse the test tube with clean water after each use.

And that was my problem, I wasn't shaking Bottle #2 prior to adding the drops. When I shook Bottle #2 prior to adding the drops and I shook the test tube for 1 minute prior to letting it sit; I got proper results. I felt foolish but it isn't the first time I have felt that way and it won't be the last I am sure.

Hope this helps solve you problem!


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

oh very nice, i skimmed through most of the directions and i have NOT been doing that. I will *definitely* try that as well as the calibration, thanks so much


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

Oh yeah, definitely solved my problem lol 
just did a 50% water change and will do probably do another tomorrow depending on what these test results say after the wc.

Thanks for the help everyone


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi HolyAngel,

Glad to help! I have to admit it had me scratching my head for a week or so before I called API and got the answer. Water changes are definitely in order; I had some plants do a slight melt when I starting reducing the NO3 level but they all recovered.


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## mostman (Dec 5, 2010)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi HolyAngel,
> 
> Glad to help! I have to admit it had me scratching my head for a week or so before I called API and got the answer. Water changes are definitely in order; I had some plants do a slight melt when I starting reducing the NO3 level but they all recovered.


Ha! I was just having the same exact problem. I was about to throw the tester out the window and then I found this thread. Now I'm getting the numbers I was expecting. Lol - just goes to show you - ALWAYS read the instructions!


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## ScottieB (Nov 25, 2010)

Yeah that API test kit needs to be shaken for AT LEAST 30 seconds, especially if it has been a while since you used it. Helps to smack it against the wall or a table a few times too - there are crystals in there that need to be in the solution and not stuck to the inside of the bottle.


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