# Biocube (29G) SW to Planted conversion



## zachary908 (Feb 12, 2011)

The stock filter on the biocube will work great. Actually... the bioballs in there work better for freshwater than they do for saltwater. Throw a biocibe cartridge in there an you are set. You might get a foam block for the intake, but other than that you are good.


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

zachary908 said:


> The stock filter on the biocube will work great. Actually... the bioballs in there work better for freshwater than they do for saltwater. Throw a biocibe cartridge in there an you are set. You might get a foam block for the intake, but other than that you are good.


 
Pretty sure I threw the Bioballs out - but I do recall they are a "Nitrate" facotry...that wouldnt pose a problem in FW planted? 

When you say a foam block for the intake, do you mean - 
http://www.bigalspets.com/Fluval-Fo...olor_map,price,size_name&searchRank=salesrank

Would this be used in conjunction with the Biocube Filter Carts?
http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=211501715&sellerid=32176251

Thanks a lot for your help!


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

Realistik84 said:


> *Pretty sure I threw the Bioballs out - but I do recall they are a "Nitrate" facotry...that wouldnt pose a problem in FW planted? *
> 
> When you say a foam block for the intake, do you mean -
> http://www.bigalspets.com/Fluval-Fo...olor_map,price,size_name&searchRank=salesrank
> ...


 
If anyone has feedback in the quoted bolded statement above it would be appreciated. 

I am going to scrape all of the corraline algae from the saltwater off today as the vinegar has loosened it. I will change all the water as well. I presume there will be vinegar residue still so should refill with water, cycle, and empty a few times still to ensure no vinegar left over on any of the equipment right?


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## partobe (Jul 29, 2011)

wont lemon remove the vinegar?


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

partobe said:


> wont lemon remove the vinegar?


First time I heard that, but I would be very interested if hearing this is true...


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## Sherminator (Aug 29, 2011)

Realistik84 said:


> Pretty sure I threw the Bioballs out - but I do recall they are a "Nitrate" facotry...that wouldnt pose a problem in FW planted?


I've been running a 29 Gallon Biocube for the past year and half...not really planted (just have some Java Moss and Moss Balls in it...had some duckweed in it but I happened to kill it off some how!) with anywhere from 8-10 Bee Gobies, 2 Amanio Shrimp and several Cherry Shrimp of different ages in it...just added another 4 Bee Gobies and two Ottos for algae cleanup this past weekend. I do a water change every two to three weeks of about 7.5 gallons. 

I hate to say this, but I haven't checked my water quality in ages (I work 5 days a week away from home) but I haven't had any major die off in my bee gobies or shrimp. 

Once I get settled into my new house I'll be able to spend more time with this tank and getting my 7.5 Pico Planted Shrimp tank setup and my 75 Gallon Community tank...


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## zachary908 (Feb 12, 2011)

Realistik84 said:


> Pretty sure I threw the Bioballs out - but I do recall they are a "Nitrate" facotry...that wouldnt pose a problem in FW planted?
> 
> When you say a foam block for the intake, do you mean
> 
> ...


Bioballs aren't a nitrate factory in FW in my opinion. And even if they were it would just be free plant food. I have a heavily stocked 75 gallon tank and I have a sump with... you guessed it bioballs, and that's it. Check it out, link is in my sig.

That foam block would probably work. You put it behind the intake slats to keep small fish and shrimps from getting sucked in as an added bonus it is basically an extra filter.

No problem, sorry for the late response!


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

zachary908 said:


> Bioballs aren't a nitrate factory in FW in my opinion. And even if they were it would just be free plant food. I have a heavily stocked 75 gallon tank and I have a sump with... you guessed it bioballs, and that's it. Check it out, link is in my sig.
> 
> That foam block would probably work. You put it behind the intake slats to keep small fish and shrimps from getting sucked in as an added bonus it is basically an extra filter.
> 
> No problem, sorry for the late response!


Thanks - I am sure I can find bioballs cheap online somewhere. I am reading through your journal right now, 25 pages to go but wanted to post my questions while reading. 

What determines if a Sump system should be used?
What determines if CO2 system is needed?
With 2 x 36W Power Compact lights in the Biocube (Replaced Actinic with Daylight so both are Daylight), am I fairly limited to certain plants? For example, should I avoid "Stems" or any other general plant type. 

I have plenty of driftwood, the mechanical filter, 50/50 Flourite and Gravel, what kind of stock am I looking at?

Right now - I know I am getting a Roseline shark, but other than that no ideas yet. I really like the Knight Goby, but have not seen one at my LFS...


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## Storm (Aug 7, 2011)

Realistik84 said:


> Pretty sure I threw the Bioballs out - but I do recall they are a "Nitrate" facotry...that wouldnt pose a problem in FW planted?


By "nitrate factory" I think they just mean that they house the beneficial bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrites and nitrites to nitrates, so yes, they technically are a nitrate factory, but that is what you want your biological filter to be doing for you. I hope this helped.


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

Storm said:


> By "nitrate factory" I think they just mean that they house the beneficial bacteria that converts ammonia to nitrites and nitrites to nitrates, so yes, they technically are a nitrate factory, but that is what you want your biological filter to be doing for you. I hope this helped.


Understood - I just know while I had this tank setup as a Saltwater - the Saltwater enthusiasts frowned upon it for a multitude of reasons, was wondering what is different in the FW realm that it becomes more beneficial than harmful. 

(Saltwater tends to rely on Natural filtration greatly, especially in smaller tanks, in which Live Rock and Water Flow become the "filtration" system).

*Reposting questions so they do not get lost:
*What determines if a Sump system should be used?
What determines if CO2 system is needed?
With 2 x 36W Power Compact lights in the Biocube (Replaced Actinic with Daylight so both are Daylight), am I fairly limited to certain plants? For example, should I avoid "Stems" or any other general plant type. 

I have plenty of driftwood, the mechanical filter, 50/50 Flourite and Gravel, what kind of stock am I looking at?

Right now - I know I am getting a Roseline shark, but other than that no ideas yet. I really like the Knight Goby, but have not seen one at my LFS...


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you had plenty of light when that tank was set up as a reef tank, you have way too much light for a planted tank. It is hard to guess how much light a PC fixture will give you, because those have had reflectors ranging from non-existent to very good, and that makes all the difference in the world. I have a small bio-cube, 8 gallon tank, which had a PC light. I had to replace that light to avoid having way too much light. I suspect you will have to do the same. And, that determines whether you need CO2 or not.


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## mr.schertz (Oct 20, 2009)

The term nitrate factory comes from the build up of detritus buildup on the bio balls. high nitrates in any aquarium environment lead to bad algae outbreaks. Reef setups suffer the most with high nitrates. I actually removed the bio balls and added a media rack for my cube.Unless you put in some good filter media in that over flow your going to get a lot of decaying plant matter in that large chamber. Good luck,let us know how it goes.


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

mr.schertz said:


> The term nitrate factory comes from the build up of detritus buildup on the bio balls. high nitrates in any aquarium environment lead to bad algae outbreaks. Reef setups suffer the most with high nitrates. I actually removed the bio balls and added a media rack for my cube.Unless you put in some good filter media in that over flow your going to get a lot of decaying plant matter in that large chamber. Good luck,let us know how it goes.


This is more in line with my original thoughts - but as always in forums you have varying opinions and so many variables 

What is meant by "Media Rack"? Any links to one?
Also - someone mentioned that Nitrates would "be free food" for plants? 

I hate new stuff....:icon_cool


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

mr.schertz said:


> The term nitrate factory comes from the build up of detritus buildup on the bio balls. high nitrates in any aquarium environment lead to bad algae outbreaks.


In a planted tank high nitrates do not lead to algae problems. You can put 4 times the normal dose of nitrates in the tank when you fertilize, and still not cause an algae problem, nor a fish problem. But, low nitrates do lead to BGA problems. The whole purpose of any biofilter is to be a nitrate factory. They convert ammonia to nitrates, which are a necessary plant nutrient.


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## mr.schertz (Oct 20, 2009)

Hoppy said:


> In a planted tank high nitrates do not lead to algae problems. You can put 4 times the normal dose of nitrates in the tank when you fertilize, and still not cause an algae problem, nor a fish problem. But, low nitrates do lead to BGA problems. The whole purpose of any biofilter is to be a nitrate factory. They convert ammonia to nitrates, which are a necessary plant nutrient.


I will have to disagree. High nitrates will cause large amounts of algae to form if your conditions aren't right. Also,high nitrates do hurt fish and their health. So if you had 200ppm of nitrates are you saying there would be no issues?


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## Storm (Aug 7, 2011)

mr.schertz said:


> I will have to disagree. High nitrates will cause large amounts of algae to form if your conditions aren't right. Also,high nitrates do hurt fish and their health. So if you had 200ppm of nitrates are you saying there would be no issues?


Nobody said that 200 ppm nitrates would cause no issues. The only thing I said is that a nitrate factory is exactly what you want in a freshwater tank. The most harmful substances to freshwater fish are ammonia and nitrites. Both of these are broken down by beneficial bacteria and converted into nitrates. So you really want a nitrate factory in your filtration system.

Now, if you have a lot of plants, they might eat the nitrates for food, but if you don't, you will have to do regular water changes to remove nitrates after the bacteria has had a go at it.


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## zachary908 (Feb 12, 2011)

Realistik84 said:


> What determines if a Sump system should be used?
> What determines if CO2 system is needed?
> With 2 x 36W Power Compact lights in the Biocube (Replaced Actinic with Daylight so both are Daylight), am I fairly limited to certain plants? For example, should I avoid "Stems" or any other general plant type.
> 
> ...


You don't "need" a sump, it is just my preferred method of filtration. I like the added water volume, the surface skimming, and it's a great place to hide heaters and what not.

The lighting in a biocube is plenty capable of growing nearly all freshwater plants, and you will definitely need some form of CO2... Unless you want an algae farm.

I'd prefer not to tell you how much to stock, because most people dis agree with my levels of stocking, :hihi: 

Personally I don't think roselines are a suitable candidate for a bio cube. The get large, like open water etc. Knight gobies are super cool!


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## ravenmyth (Dec 22, 2008)

*Biocube similar to my Aquapod*

One of my tanks is a 24 gal Aquapod that is very similar to your Biocube and you will find it is a great aquarium for planted FW tank.

Wth respect to some of your queries:

I use a 32 W regular bulb Sunpaq bulb and leave the Actinic turned off.

That gives me plenty of light for a low tech planted tank using Diane Walstad's methods (except the tank doesn't have sunlight exposure). I have grown a lush variety of Crypts, Vallisneria, Java fern, etc in it and my other tanks with similar or less Watts/gal lighting. You shouldn't need the costs or hassles of CO2, extra fertilizer, etc unless you want them. I have more posts elsewhere if you want a more detailed list of plants or tank setup.

Enjoy.:icon_excl


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

Well - here are some pictures. I am absolutely loving this setup, as being from Buffalo, NY - This kind of setup is something I feel can be seen on a walk through the woods...


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

One more...


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## dubvstudent (Jan 10, 2009)

Looking good, except the second from last picture appears to be mondo grass. Even though they sell it as an aquarium plant at petco or petsmart, it is not a true aquatic. If it is mondo grass, it will not grow in the tank, it will just wither and die over time.

BTW what did you decide to go with for filtration?
The nitrate factory/bio balls thing is more or less a worry strictly for reefers. They will work fine for a planted tank, but that said, if you have already thrown them out, and you have the spare filter media space, there is really no limit to what you can use there.
And to attempt to reconcile some of the differing advice on the issue I will say this... Yes high nitrate levels can be harmful to fish, however, unless you completely ignore husbandry issues or are severely overstocked you should not reach harmful levels (water changes being a simple method of removal). Additionally, your plants will use up much of the nitrate created in order to grow. That said, plants require more nutrients than just nitrate, look at the ferts section of the boards to get an idea as to what products are available to fulfill this need.
In terms of your CO2 question, and, to echo Hoppy's comments, you have a considerable amount of light over that tank. When this is the case, CO2 (and proper ferts) become very important in terms of avoiding algae issues. If you plan on running both those bulbs I think a CO2 system might be in order. Looking at your current choice of plants though, I think you could probably get by without it if you ran only one bulb and dialed in your photo period.


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

dubvstudent said:


> Looking good, except the second from last picture appears to be mondo grass. Even though they sell it as an aquarium plant at petco or petsmart, it is not a true aquatic. If it is mondo grass, it will not grow in the tank, it will just wither and die over time.
> 
> BTW what did you decide to go with for filtration?
> The nitrate factory/bio balls thing is more or less a worry strictly for reefers. They will work fine for a planted tank, but that said, if you have already thrown them out, and you have the spare filter media space, there is really no limit to what you can use there.
> ...


 
Excellent - I did find the bioballs in the basement and ran them through hot water before using them, but I am using them in chamber 2 with some filter floss on top of the chamber as well. 

Thanks for the other advice to, it puts thing in perspective. Right now I only have the 1 light running. I was thinking about (Since I have timers from the reef setup) running 1 for 10 hours and the 2nd for a 2 hours during the peak of that time....? On one hand it seems like it might emulate when the sun is at it's peak...?

But CO2 is something I want to avoid right now - but am open to in the future. If 1 light and 1 light only is recommended as a result I am going to keep that advice in mind. 

BTW - It is mondo grass, and my response is "them bastards"  - I try to stay away from the Big Box but unfortunately they are right around the corner, the other fish store arounds the corner rarely has plants, and the other is about 25 minutes away...


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## londonloco (Aug 25, 2005)

Very nice tank! I'd lower that lighting period to 8 hours....


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

I know many people on her say you can never have too many plants, so I plan on getting more when I see the right deal on the right plant. I also want to continue stocking with schools of fish, such as serpae tetra (4 in there currently), and am open to suggestions of what others like for certain reasons....?

When would I want to introduce oto's for algae - i presume I need to let algae form first?

Also - I LOVE Cory's - 2 in there right now (Agasizzi) and want to get more (Up to 10-15 over time)...thoughts?


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

Here is an updated pic if interested

Removed big piece of driftwood as it was leaking more tannins than expected, plus it was huge (IMO too big for tank). I will use it in 65G when I convert that to planted.

Also - the stems are losing all their leaves - not sure if I did a poor job planting or if that is typical with planting new stems.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Are you dosing nitrates, phosphates, potassium and trace elements? You have enough light for that to be very important.


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## Realistik84 (Sep 12, 2011)

Hoppy said:


> Are you dosing nitrates, phosphates, potassium and trace elements? You have enough light for that to be very important.


The only thing I am doing is Excel Plus and DIY C02 (Although the CO2 diffuser I have doesnt seem like it is diffusing well, and I am waiting for a glass diffuser to arrive)

Also - I am adding Purigen - not that it will help with "Dosing" but know it comes with good reviews so figured was worth mention. 

Is there something else I should be aware of?


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