# Monark's first ADA MINI-M (New pics 08/04/10)



## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

This is my first planted tank as I posted before in other thread I used to have a saltwater tank and a freshwater tank (only fish) but due to lag of information and care I didn't have any success with them so I decided to give one more try and I went with a planted tank but this time I'll try to get more help...

Set up:

Tank:
ADA MINI M tank

Substrate:
ADA Amazonia Aquasoil II

Lightning:
27 watt Hamptom Bay Desk lamp

Filtration:
Eheim 2213
DoAqua Mini Violet glass pipes

CO2:
GLA Smith regulator
5lb CO2 cylinder
DoAqua Music counter
DoAqua Music deffuser
ADA drop checker

Ferts:
Will get the Green Fertilizer Package: Micros & Macros from GLA soon!!!

Flora:
Dwarf Hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)
Micro Sword (Lilaeopsis novae-zelandiae)
HC (Hemianthus micranthemoides)
Riccia Fluitans

Fauna:

10 Neon Tetras
4 RCS (Plant to get 3 more)


Some pics:

A week ago:











Now (07/13/2009)


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Question????

The water is forming a white film on the surface is this normal???
Do I have to do something to get rid of it??


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## Outlawboss (Dec 30, 2008)

It's a normal thing. You should be able to lift your filter's outflow pipe just a tad more than what I see in the pictures to generate a slight surface agitation. Nothing that will break the surface, just enough to get the water on top moving. That took care of it for me. 

But again, don't panic, it's normal.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

I'll try that...

Thanks


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

More questions...

I've been looking at some of the set ups and I found that some people put their filter pipes in different positions and I would like to know if it makes a difference where you put them, also I am getting like a green algae on the glass tank behind and bellow the filter pipes and I think it might be lack of water movement (I think).... anyway, which of these would be the best place to set up the filter pipes???... Which of these places do you think you could get the better water movement?????:


MY CURRENT SET UP:












MIDDLE OF TANK SET UP:











BACK OF TANK SET UP:


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## niptek (Nov 9, 2008)

It depends on how much plants you have and where most of the algae is building up. For your size tank you should be fine with a 2213 filter and it should be more than enough flow no matter where you place the pipes.

I don't think it's lack of water movement that your getting algae on the glass. Tank is probably not fully established/cycled or light my be causing it. Cut back on light and fert or just get some algae eating fish and shrimp that should take care of the algae. I normally just manual scrub them off at every water change.

tank is looking good.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks for the answer but now that I'm looking at the tank, I see that the intake pipe is just right above where I planted the Dwarf Hairgrass, Don't you think the plant will get sucked up by the pipe went it grows more????, Will it obstruct the water inflow??? Should I move the pipes (inflow, outflow) to the middle of the tank right in front of the Hairgrass and above the HC????


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## Outlawboss (Dec 30, 2008)

You could pretty easily trim the hairgrass to keep it out of the intake if you like the position it's in now. It might also serve to hide the intake pretty nicely once it's grown in more. As long as the outflow is creating a nice current that reaches all the little hiddens spots of the tank, you should be good. The outflow is what's going to create your current.


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## Strick (Apr 6, 2009)

Tank looks good. Nice growth on the riccia...

Are you planning to put in some background plants? Some vals (corkscrew, maybe) would look nice and add some more vertical interest besides the rock.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Strick said:


> Tank looks good. Nice growth on the riccia...
> 
> Are you planning to put in some background plants? Some vals (corkscrew, maybe) would look nice and add some more vertical interest besides the rock.



Thanks, the Riccia has growth like about .75" in a week...

For the background I planted dwarf hair grass and I plan to let it grow tall so it can come out behind the rock.


*Outlawboss*

Do you know or does anyone know where can I find those 10k Archaea 27 watt lights?

I would like to change the Hampton Bay lights but I been looking for the Archaea light and I can't find them.


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## spikeit (Nov 24, 2008)

Archea lights are sold by aquaforest aquarium in San Francisco... 

http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=afa_product

You have to call them to order.. it is not sold on their web-site... you can also e-mail them.. 

It is a re-branded light that they only sell..

Good luck..


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## Outlawboss (Dec 30, 2008)

Yep, spikeit is right. I happened to be lucky and found my light on the Swap & Shop here, but, I would have happily paid AFA to get one. They charge $60 + shipping for them BTW.

In fact, I will probably end up getting another for my 5.5 gallon. Highly recommend them.


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## niptek (Nov 9, 2008)

MONARK said:


> Thanks for the answer but now that I'm looking at the tank, I see that the intake pipe is just right above where I planted the Dwarf Hairgrass, Don't you think the plant will get sucked up by the pipe went it grows more????, Will it obstruct the water inflow??? Should I move the pipes (inflow, outflow) to the middle of the tank right in front of the Hairgrass and above the HC????



Do what you gotta do. Whatever works.roud:

i lifted my inflow pipe all the way up to avoid sucking in new born shrimps it works.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

JUMPERS!!!!

When I first got the fish I also added 4 RCS but one of them jumped out of the tank...
Last Friday I bought 4 ottos and 3 more RCS to help clean the algae on the tank; on Saturday morning I found a RCS on the floor, Sunday morning another RCS on the floor and today my wife found an Otto on the floor...

Is there any reason why they are jumping out of the tank?????
Should I wait 'til the plants grow more to add more shrimp???

Maybe the tank is too crowded or not too much food for all of 'em...
Need help.

Thanks


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## niptek (Nov 9, 2008)

They probably got shocked from water and jumped out. Did you put them in right? just dump out some water, leave like 1inch so they don't jump out. Wait like two or three weeks or until they're settled in then top off your tank.

I've lost 2 ottos, 2 CRS, 1 RCS and found a live amano shrimp crawling around next to my bed.

They also can crawl from the co2 tube, doubt from the glass pipes but that's rare.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

I left them in their bags for 3 hours and then put them in the tank...
I hope I'm doing it right or not????
I will take some water out and will wait the three weeks like you said.

Thanks


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## zachxbass (Jul 6, 2008)

you don't need to leave them floating for that long... float them for about 15 mins to get the temperature in the bag to adjust and equal your water temp. Then roll the edge of the bag up so the bag is open, but still floats... Take a little of your tank water, dump it in the bag, wait ten mins or so and repeat. Spread this out for like an hour and that will get the shrimp/fish used to other water parameters (pH, hardnes, etc..) All floating does (with bag closed) is gets the temperature to match water temp. And when releasing your fish it's usually better to net them out of bag and then realease... try not to mix bag water with tank water. If you do mix it's not usually a problem... but on rare occasions could spread disease or add too much ammonia to your tank. (from fish in bag producing waste)


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## niptek (Nov 9, 2008)

yea, you need to slowly add your tank water into the bag every 15-30mins for 3 or more hours the longer the better. 

I remember when I didn't care about amanos when i first got them i just dump them in right away and they all shot right up to the edge of the tank...a few jumped out. They were shocked from the water...they have to slowly adjust from their old aquarium water to new water.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Dripping shrimp in is highly recommended. I use a peice of airline and a air line flow control valve to get the water to drip out slowly. I use this method and it works great.

Craig


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## mott (Nov 23, 2006)

Agreed with Craig, the drip method is the best for shrimp and fish imo, another thing I do is cover the bucket with somthing to keep them in the dark while acclimating it makes them feel safe. Same goes for when you dump them in the tank lights off.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks for the help!

I guess this is why I killed the fish in my first tank :eek5: I just took the fish and dropped them in the tank and they died instantly... 

Anyway that is why I'm here to get info and not do things wrong.

Now, can anyone please explain how is the dripping method?

Thanks


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

a search here or google for drip acclimation would give you some good results.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

I found it!!!

Video Sample from ZooTycoonMaster:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0u7waGLH-pY&feature=channel_page

Using the drip acclimation to acclimate 3 new Otocinclus.

How to drip acclimate:
1. Find a bucket for the livestock to go in. If you don't have a bucket, you can place the bag (with livestock inside) in a large cup so that it doesn't tilt over.
2. Tie a knot in a length of airline tubing.
3. Start a siphon from the end of the tubing (inside the aquarium) to the other end (in the bag).
4. Tighten or loosen the knot so that it drips 1-2 bubbles per second.
5. Once the water level in the bag/bucket doubles, then you can place the livestock in the tank. 



And here is the same precess but longer:

http://www.ratemyfishtank.com/articles/97

The “Old” Method

I refer to this method as the “old method” because it was the one typically used by aquarists in the past. Usually, your local fish store will put your fish in a plastic bag so you can bring them home. The “old method” involves floating this plastic bag in your tank. Many people still use this method to this day, but there is a far more effective method that will be addressed in the next section. The problem with floating the bag is that is does nothing to acclimate your fish to the various water parameters of your tank. All it does is adjust the water temperature of the bag to that of your tank. In fact, it often does not even accomplish this as the temperature at the surface of your tank tends to be warmer than the rest of the water as it is heated by your lights.

If you do choose to use this method, please remember to turn off your lights before floating the bag. This will ensure that you do not fry your fish.

The Drip Method

The drip method is the one preferred by most modern aquarists. It not only allows your fish to get used to the temperature of your tank, but also adjusts them to the pH, hardness, and numerous other water parameters. It is easy to do and only takes about 30 minutes to an hour depending on the speed of dripping. The following discussion will walk you through the drip method in a step-by-step fashion.

Materials you will Need

- 3 or 5 gallon bucket
- Airline tubing
- Patience

Step 1 – The Ride Home:

Ok, so you have purchased the fish and the store has placed them in a plastic bag. If the store does not provide you with a paper bag, bring one with you so you can put the plastic bag inside it. This will reduce the amount of stress your fish are forced to endure on their ride home. Also, be sure to not shake the bag too much or place it by the vents of your car (where the bag can become too hot or cold depending on whether the heater or air conditioner is turned on). You are simply trying to make the trip as nice as possible for your new fish.

Step 2 – Transferring the Fish to a Bucket

Once you get home, get out your bucket (can also use a pitcher if dealing with small fish) and carefully empty the contents of the plastic bag into it (water and fish). If there is not enough water in the bag to cover the fish once you put them in the bucket, you can tilt the bucket (put something under one side) so the water depth increases. You can then remove this wedge once enough water is added.

Step 3 – Setting up the Siphon

Now setup a siphon using the airline tubing. The process is the same as when you use a siphon to vacuum your gravel except that you will want to either have some siphon control mechanism that pinches the tubing to reduce the flow rate or you can tie several loose knots in the tubing to control the flow. I would recommend the knot method as it is easiest.

Once you have tied two or three loose knots in the tubing, place one end of the tubing in your tank and suck on the other end to start the siphon (be sure to not get any water in your mouth – you should only have to suck on the tubing for a second). Once water starts flowing through the tube, tighten the knots by pulling on them until the flow is about 4-5 drips per second. You can increase this rate slightly (6-7 per second) if you are worried about keeping the fish in the bucket for a long period of time.

Step 4 – Removing Half of the Water

After the water in the bucket has doubled, stop the siphon and remove half the water from the bucket. Then start the process over again. Once it doubles again, your fish should be properly acclimated to your tank water. As I said before, this process should take between 30 minutes to an hour. It is important to be patient, but if you are worried about your fish being in the bucket for an hour simply increase the drip rate slightly.

Step 5 – Putting the Fish in Your Tank

Now that the fish are acclimated, it is time to introduce them to your aquarium. Turn off the lights and leave them off for 3-4 hours after the fish are introduced. Catch the fish in the bucket with a net. You want to make sure the net is an appropriate size relative to the fish; it should be much larger than the fish. Once a fish is caught, carefully put the net in the tank water and let the fish swim out. Do not throw or drop the fish from above the surface of the water. Repeat for each of your fish.

Do not put any of the water from the bucket into your tank. While most of it is now your own tank water, there is still a portion that came from the fish store. You may trust your fish store, but you do not know anything about their tanks. By introducing their tank water into your tank, you may be introducing diseases or other undesirable things. It is best to just use this as a good time for a water change and fill the tank up with new water.

Alternate Method

While the drip method is very easy, some people do not like setting it up. An alternative method that is not as good, but it much better than the floating method, is to place the fish in a bucket or pitcher and add a cup of water from your tank every 4-5 minutes. Repeat this until the water volume in the bucket is doubled, discard half the volume, and the repeat until the water volume is doubled again.

There really is no difference between this and the drip method, but some people seem to prefer adding the water via a measuring cup rather than dripping it via tubing. The choice is really up to you.

Conclusion

Using the drip method ensures that your fish are not shocked when they are introduced into your aquarium. You go to so much effort to research fish and provide them with a proper environment – why force them to undergo shock at the very beginning? Hopefully, as word spreads, less people will use the floating method and will jump on board with the most appropriate method for introducing your fish – the drip method


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

HELP!!!!

How strong should be the water flow in the tank?

I been using the ball valves of the outflow tube to control the flow of the water but I'm note sure if this could damage the filter, also if I leave the valves too open when the fish swim in front of the outflow pipe they get stomp against the glass and if I leave it too close I don't see that much water movement and I don't know if the lack of water movement could bring me problems.


Filtration:
Eheim 2213
DoAqua Mini Violet glass pipes (10mm outflow - 13mm inflow)


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Update pics!!!

Sorry about the picture quality :icon_roll I might have to get a new camera!!!


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Your shrimp are jumping out because of your fish. There not that smart. When I had a couple killies in my mini m I foung quite a few dried up shrim in the few days ther were in there.


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## lljdma06 (Oct 16, 2006)

The tank looks very nice, how many gallons? 

llj


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

5.5 gallons.

Updating fauna!

Current:

6 neon tetras
25 RCS
3 Ottos

Adding:

6 Boraras macalatus
1 Zebra nerite

I think this would be more than enough fauna


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## ZooTycoonMaster (Jan 2, 2008)

MONARK said:


> I found it!!!
> 
> Video Sample from ZooTycoonMaster:
> 
> ...


Wow I didn't think anyone watched my videos:hihi:

Great looking tank! It'll look great once it fills in.


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## Down_Shift (Sep 20, 2008)

MONARK said:


> JUMPERS!!!!
> 
> When I first got the fish I also added 4 RCS but one of them jumped out of the tank...
> Last Friday I bought 4 ottos and 3 more RCS to help clean the algae on the tank; on Saturday morning I found a RCS on the floor, Sunday morning another RCS on the floor and today my wife found an Otto on the floor...
> ...



water level is prob too high. I seem to lose alot of shrimp when I top off my ADA tanks.

Also might want to check your water parameters.. might not be comfy enough and fish tend to jump more when the water is not adequate


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## Solid (Jul 19, 2009)

Very nice tank dude!


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Added:

1 Nerite snail
12 Dwarf Rasboras (Boraras Maculatus)
Feeding: First bites, Decapped Brine Shrimp eggs, Artic copepods, Golden Pearls, Live Daphnia, Frozen Daphnia and live Grindal worms.

Pics:


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## voodooaria (Oct 13, 2009)

I saw in your for sale pictures that you have a glass lid on your mini M. Did that come with the tank or did you purchase it?


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

I just purchase a piece of clear acrylic, drilled some holes and cut some fittings for the pipes.

You can buy the ADA Mini-M cover, I think it's $19.00 plus shipping at aqua forest aquarium but that cover leaves more space open and my fish liked to jump through every little space they could (I don't know why), so I just did my own cover and it has worked perfectly.


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## Outlawboss (Dec 30, 2008)

Fantastic tank dude. And great idea for the tank cover. I may do something similar after losing about a million endlers over the last year to suicide attempts.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Outlawboss said:


> Fantastic tank dude. And great idea for the tank cover. I may do something similar after losing about a million endlers over the last year to suicide attempts.



Thanks man, I lost a lot of tetras, rasboras and RCS; the covers works so perfectly that it keeps the nerites from coming out of the tank.

About the tank, it is going through a rescape now so I will pictures in a future.


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## Dollface (Sep 30, 2008)

I don't think I've ever said it, but I am totally jealous of the algae on that rock, it looks amazing.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Winter Rescape

Flora:
Eleocharis sp Bellem
Marsilea Quadrifolia
Hydrocotyle Verticilata

Fauna:

Three Dwarf Rasboras
Three CPD's
One Zebra Nerite
One Oto
Small colony of RCS


DW provided TPT member Solid.


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

That actually looks really cool. It's different and I like it


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Thnaks CL. I can't wait for it to fill in, the HG was planted today and it will take some weeks to take off, the four leaf clover is changing to its submerse form, I hope it starts to spread before the HG and the Verticilata is growing like crazy.

We'll see how it progress.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

New pics...

Eleocharis belem and the four leaf clover are starting to fill, it might take a month or two to complete fill the foreground. The Pennywoorth is grown like crazy and it needs a trim.









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## Outlawboss (Dec 30, 2008)

Looking really, really good dude! I love the pennywort. The scale of the pennywort versus the driftwood totally reminds me of something out of Avatar. But that could also be because I just saw it and I'm on a rainforest kick. Either way, I like it! 

Looks like you got the Archaea light too! Is that a 10,000k bulb in there? The reflection on the surface of the water kind of looks like LEDs instead of compact fluorescent.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Looks great, very clean.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Outlawboss said:


> Looking really, really good dude! I love the pennywort. The scale of the pennywort versus the driftwood totally reminds me of something out of Avatar. But that could also be because I just saw it and I'm on a rainforest kick. Either way, I like it!
> 
> Looks like you got the Archaea light too! Is that a 10,000k bulb in there? The reflection on the surface of the water kind of looks like LEDs instead of compact fluorescent.



Thanks!!!! That light is the Archaea with a 10.000k bulb, I got tired of the 27 watt HB desktop lamp and I think the pennyworth is pearling more since I got this new light, to me it looks more fresh with this bulb like if-it-were-summer-and-you-wanna-jump-into-the-tank-to-cool-down fresh. LOLOLOLO


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Set up:

Tank:
ADA MINI M tank

Substrate:
ADA Amazonia Aquasoil II

Lightning:
27 watt Archaea Fixture

Filtration:
Eheim 2213
CalAquaLabs Nano Pipes

CO2:
GLA Smith regulator
5lb CO2 cylinder
DoAqua Music counter
DoAqua Music deffuser
ADA drop checker

Ferts:
Pfertz EIsh

Flora:
Eleocharis Sp. Bellem
Marsilea Quadrofolia
Hydrocotyle Verticillata
Crypt Parva
Starougyne Sp. 049
Fauna:

Small colonie of RCS
1 Black Bar Endler fry

Pics:


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## katroc (Feb 15, 2010)

Oooo Monark, this is very nice. Cool tank! =)


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## Outlawboss (Dec 30, 2008)

Fantastic!


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## VNCNT (Nov 16, 2009)

beautiful. loving the eleocharis belem. the acrylic cover doesn't warp or bend?


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

VNCNT said:


> beautiful. loving the eleocharis belem. the acrylic cover doesn't warp or bend?



Yes, it does but I found a thicker one that I'm trying and will see if it bents...


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## HCftw (Feb 2, 2010)

beautiful tank! love it!


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks for all the good feedback!!!


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

UPDATE: 05/03/2010

Set up:

Tank:
ADA MINI M tank

Substrate:
ADA Amazonia Aquasoil II

Lightning:
27 watt Archaea Fixture

Filtration:
Eheim 2213
CalAquaLabs Nano Pipes

CO2:
GLA Smith regulator
5lb CO2 cylinder
DoAqua Music counter
DoAqua Music deffuser
ADA drop checker

Ferts:
Pfertz EIsh Dosing

Flora:
Eleocharis Sp. Bellem
Blyxa Japonica
Hydrocotyle Verticillata
Ranunculus Inundatus
Staurogyne Sp 049
Rotala Sp "Green'

Fauna:

Small colonie of RCS
Small colonie of Tiger Shrimp
Small colonie of Malawa Srimp
1 Black Bar Endler fry
1 Zebra Nerite

Pics









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By monark1981 at 2010-05-03

Just planted the Rotala Sp 'Green' today (30 stems), I hope once they get in good shape the tank will look great.


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## Chich (Apr 28, 2010)

*Monark's first ADA MINI-M (New pics 05/03/10)*

What's the bushy plant in a circle?


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

That's Riccia attached to some flat rocks.


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## kcirtappatrick (Mar 16, 2009)

nice tank! 
how are you dosing your pferts for your mini m? i'm trying to do 1/2 a pump everyday for my mini m (heavily planted).


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

I do the same and 50% water change weekly.


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## hyphination (Sep 25, 2008)

your staurogyne looks really healthy! how long is your photo period and what is your BPS?


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

My photo period is 12hrs and I have the CO2 at 1.2 to 2bps.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Well, added a Horned Nerite (really cool), two of the new malawas are berried so I hope to see their shrimplets in about two weeks, the rotala sp green is pearling like crazy and is getting back on its feet, the starougyne and verticillata will be due for a trim next week. Pretty much the scape is going according to plans.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Camera phone picture update!!!

The rotala has change all his old big leafs for new smaller ones.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

New pics. I just got rid of the driftwood and left everything fill and grow...









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## chris.rivera3 (Apr 15, 2008)

nice tank...do you trim the e. belem?? or just let it grow?


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

I trim it every two to three months; it stays very low. To me it is the best foreground plant.


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## thatgmc (Jul 4, 2010)

I am loving your tank. Planning to trim that e. belem anytime soon?


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## brighty K (May 31, 2010)

Well done.


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## ZooTycoonMaster (Jan 2, 2008)

This tank looks absolutely stunning. It's so green, even the drop checker is:hihi: Have you considered replacing all that Rotala Green in the back with another Rotala that turns red, such as Rotala Butterfly?


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

I love it. Even without any scaping materials, it looks fresh and healthy. The belem and staurogyne really look great.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

ZOO, I'll look into the red rotala though I'm trying to bring the red out of the blyxa to pit some color other than green.

CL, the staurogyne took a little while to get used to the tank but righ now is spreading and growing really good. The bellem is very healthy and thick right now, it is a really nice foreground plant.


Thanks to all for the comments.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

ZOO, I just looked into this Rotala Sp Butterfly and it looks really nice but I was wondering if you know where one can get some stems


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

You see it in the S&S on here and APC every once in a while.


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## ZooTycoonMaster (Jan 2, 2008)

MONARK said:


> ZOO, I just looked into this Rotala Sp Butterfly and it looks really nice but I was wondering if you know where one can get some stems


Like CL said, it turns up in the SnS on here and APC every once in a blue moon.

If it's too hard to find, Rotala Colorata, Rotala Macrandra, and Ludwigia 'Guinea' also turn a pink-red shade and are somewhat easier to find than 'Butterfly'.


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## aquaphish (Dec 20, 2002)

Love the setup. It gives the Mini-M an appearance of a larger aquarium. What needs to be done is to get some color in there.

Rotala Colorata or even some Didiplis Diandra will be nice.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

aquaphish said:


> Love the setup. It gives the Mini-M an appearance of a larger aquarium. What needs to be done is to get some color in there.
> 
> Rotala Colorata or even some Didiplis Diandra will be nice.


Thanks for the comment. It's been a year since I started, this is my first planted tank and it has gone through 4 rescapes but I'm happy how it looks now but as you and others said, it needs a change of colors.
Right now I started adding more Iron to bring the red out of the Blyxa and I'm in the process of adding a red rotala to be mixed with the Rotala Green in the background.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Summer Re-scape

Simple layout with rocks and Eleocharis Sp Bellem.

Some pics:





































Here's a picture of my 12gal cube that with a fresh layout; just driftwood, Mini Microsword and Hydrocotille Verticilata.


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## matthew.shelly (Dec 1, 2009)

I like the 12 gallon with the tree stump. Very nice layouts.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks!!! I was having some problems with the CO2 diffusion to the tanks but it is fixed now; the only thing I have to do is change the HOB in the 12gal to an Eheim 2215 and put my inline diffuser.
I hope they start to look filled in no more than three months.


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## bugmenot (Oct 28, 2005)

which Music Glass do you use?


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

bugmenot said:


> which Music Glass do you use?


I used the 20D


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## Francis Xavier (Oct 8, 2008)

I like the Iwagumi setup, I might have to steal the layout idea.


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## MONARK (Jun 4, 2009)

Thanks!

I will post new pics soon...


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