# My drop checker isn't working...



## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

This is the one I am using. http://www.aquariumplants.com/Aqua_Medic_CO2_Continuous_Test_p/am71539.htm

I have the sucking cup facing the top and with the container hanging down. I am using a 4dkh solution purchased from [Ebay Link Removed] I am also using the ph solution from the API kit. The drop checker has been in the tank for 2 hours. The color is still blue.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

Well, I am going to order a normal, glass one from the message board. This POS does not work...


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

As long as you have a 4dKH solution mixed with a few drops of pH solution, it will work. Just set it up so that there is an air buffer between the tank water and the solution, and it can't *not* work. I have no idea what the linked drop checker actually looks like, so I can't tell you how to position it.

A new drop checker won't fix the problem. And yes, it might take a couple hours for it to change color. But if you don't have an excess of CO2 injected into the tank, the solution won't change color from blue. Don't waste your money. Figure out what got set up wrong, or add more CO2.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

kevmo911 said:


> As long as you have a 4dKH solution mixed with a few drops of pH solution, it will work. Just set it up so that there is an air buffer between the tank water and the solution, and it can't *not* work. The link isn't working for me right now, so I can't give you instructions on how it should be positioned.
> 
> A new drop checker won't fix the problem. And yes, it might take a couple hours for it to change color. But if you don't have an excess of CO2 injected into the tank, the solution won't change color from blue. Don't waste your money. Figure out what got set up wrong.



I am sure I have excess CO2. 4 to 5 bps. Pressurized CO2 with a 10lb tank. Using an inline CO2 reactor outside of the tank. I believe the design of it which is "defective." My CO2 is off now, about 1 hour 30 minutes ago, and light is out. The solution is still blue... I don't run any air stone at night. There is no way CO2 can escape so quick in one hour and 30 minutes with only minimal water ripples on the surface. 

Here is the image of the drop checker:


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

Yeah, the link works for me now, but I still have no idea what that's a picture of, or why there are two containers of fluid with it.

But again, as long as there's a mix of 4dKH and brom blue, and there's an air buffer between tank water and the mixture, it can't not work.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

kevmo911 said:


> Yeah, the link works for me now, but I still have no idea what that's a picture of, or why there are two containers of fluid with it.
> 
> But again, as long as there's a mix of 4dKH and brom blue, and there's an air buffer between tank water and the mixture, it can't not work.


The little bottle is supposed to be the PH solution or CO2 indicator. Whenever I added them, it turned my tank water and 4dkh solution to orange yellow. I skipped all of those and just used the drop checker.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

You don't use tank water in the solution. Fill the container inside the checker about 1/2 full with 4dKH solution, add 3 or 4 drops of pH indicator solution (it doesn't matter how many, you could do as many as maybe 8 for a more solid color), and that's it.

******IGNORE the instructions on the box. Seriously.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

kevmo911 said:


> You don't use tank water in the solution. Fill the container inside the checker about 1/2 full with 4dKH solution, add 3 or 4 drops of pH indicator solution (it doesn't matter how many, you could do as many as maybe 8 for a more solid color), and that's it.
> 
> ******IGNORE the instructions on the box. Seriously.



That's what I used.  That's why I have the 4dkh solution and bought it separately.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

It also takes several hours to change from blue to yellow. Patience, grasshopper. 

What size tank is this? Filter? surface agitation? Which inline diffuser are you using? Where in the tank is it? 

Perhaps you should leave it over night and slow down a bit. Report back tomorrow night if it hasn't changed color.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

OverStocked said:


> It also takes several hours to change from blue to yellow. Patience, grasshopper.
> 
> What size tank is this? Filter? surface agitation? Which inline diffuser are you using? Where in the tank is it?
> 
> Perhaps you should leave it over night and slow down a bit. Report back tomorrow night if it hasn't changed color.



Actually, I did leave it overnight last night using my Tetra ph solution. The color was still blue this morning. However, I wasn't sure if the Tetra ph solution is the bromthymol blue. Since I need another ph test kit, I got the API ph kit. I then used it on the drop checker.

40g tank. Drop checker (near the water surface) is at the complete opposite of the spray bar which is connected to my CO2 reactor. I am using the Ista Max CO2 reactor size medium. The one with needle wheels built-in. It rotates as water coming in and chopping up CO2 bubbles. CO2 bubbles stay at the top while forcing the water out from the bottom. I am using 2 filters too. The canister filter powering the CO2 reactor. And the Marineland Emperor 400 HOB filter for biological filtration. Yesterday I did a big trimming. The tank now is more brighter after removing a bunch of creeping jenny which was literally blocking 1/3 of my light.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

The marineland hob is prob removing a big chunk of co2. The ista max is also not super efficient, in my opinion. 

Can you take a pic of the dc in your tank?


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

OverStocked said:


> The marineland hob is prob removing a big chunk of co2. The ista max is also not super efficient, in my opinion.
> 
> Can you take a pic of the dc in your tank?



For the Marineland HOB filter, only if you let the water flow straight to the front of the tank. I have the water flowing downward. I am only getting ripples from the filter. Just enough to break up any organic film on the water surface. 

Is 10 pm in NYC and lights are out. Here is the photo.










The spray bar is at the far right, about 1/3 deep into the tank. Water flow is pointing down to the substrate.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

As Overstocked said, patience! Wait a few hours from the start of the next CO2 cycle and then decide if there's an issue. I change my bubble counts in reference to the colors of my dc's at the end of the cycle.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Leave it in tonight, put the gas on in the morning and check it after work/school/senior center activities.  all in gest... 

But really, check on it tomorrow night and let us know if it has changed. THat doesn't have a LOT of surface area, but doesn't appear to have much fluid, so it shouldn't take much to give gas exchange. The design looks as though it will do the job. I've never seen that one though.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

kevmo911 said:


> As Overstocked said, patience! Wait a few hours from the start of the next CO2 cycle and then decide if there's an issue. I change my bubble counts in reference to the colors of my dc's at the end of the cycle.



Is your drop checker blue at night? I just don't see that's possible given that I don't even use an air stone at night. I have my CO2 on about 1 hour before the light is on in the morning. Also, my pH swing due to CO2 is -+.7 ph. Right now, the ph is at 7. Usually, in the morning after 2 hours with CO2 on, is about 6.2 to 6.5.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

OverStocked said:


> Leave it in tonight, put the gas on in the morning and check it after work/school/senior center activities.  all in gest...
> 
> But really, check on it tomorrow night and let us know if it has changed. THat doesn't have a LOT of surface area, but doesn't appear to have much fluid, so it shouldn't take much to give gas exchange. The design looks as though it will do the job. I've never seen that one though.



Here is a close up of it:









The third slot, by the left is open at the top and bottom. Water can flow freely in there. Only the chambers from the right to the middle is one way. 

The glass one I saw usually have a large opening and narrowing it down by the bulb section. This probably creates a greater area for the CO2 gas exchange.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

tetra73 said:


> The third slot, by the left is open at the top and bottom. Water can flow freely in there. Only the chambers from the right to the middle is one way.
> 
> The glass one I saw usually have a large opening and narrowing it down by the bulb section. This probably creates a greater area for the CO2 gas exchange.


Good point. Which will likely make the color change even slower. It works. Really, it does. But all drop checkers have delayed reactions, and this one's reaction is probably even slower.

CO2 goes from higher concentrations to lower. From the tank water, to the trapped air, to the solution. Less surface contact means a slower transfer time. Check it toward the end of the next CO2 cycle. No point in worrying about it now.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

tetra, I have a feeling one of the solutions may just not be very good, or like hoppy said, it takes a long time to change color with that test. I believe you bought one of my drop checkers? When you try it out, let me know if it works any better, I am curious about it.


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## jasonpatterson (Apr 15, 2011)

There are really only 3 possibilities. Either the 4 KH solution isn't 4 KH, but something higher, the indicator solution is not functioning correctly, or there isn't as much CO2 dissolved in the tank as you believe there is. The drop checker doesn't have any problem, aside from the surface area related slowness that has been mentioned.

The second is unlikely, in my opinion, bromthymol blue can go bad, but if it's stored properly it pretty much lasts forever.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> tetra, I have a feeling one of the solutions may just not be very good, or like hoppy said, it takes a long time to change color with that test. I believe you bought one of my drop checkers? When you try it out, let me know if it works any better, I am curious about it.



Bill, you got PM about the 4dkh solution.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

jasonpatterson said:


> There are really only 3 possibilities. Either the 4 KH solution isn't 4 KH, but something higher, the indicator solution is not functioning correctly, or there isn't as much CO2 dissolved in the tank as you believe there is. The drop checker doesn't have any problem, aside from the surface area related slowness that has been mentioned.
> 
> The second is unlikely, in my opinion, bromthymol blue can go bad, but if it's stored properly it pretty much lasts forever.



Well, is 10:16am in NYC. My CO2 kicked in at 8am. Light was on since 9am. Drop checker is still blue... Plants are pearling. ph reading has dropped from 7.2 to 6.5. You know, if pumping 4 to 5 bps to the tank does not change the color of the drop checker, I seriously doubt I would pump 10 bps into the tank.. This POS does not work, period....


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

also make sure you use a good ph test kit for your drops, NOT the generic no name stuff that came with your previous one.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> also make sure you use a good ph test kit for your drops, NOT the generic no name stuff that came with your previous one.



I finally received the drop checker and 4dkh solution from Bill. It took longer than necessary since USPS didn't delivery them on this past Sat. Yesterday, they didn't even bother to delivery them to me but to drop off a notice. I picked them up this morning. 

I tested both 4dkh solutions and they both started to turn towards the green about an hour later. I guess with a bigger drop checker, the change in color is more easily noticeable. After 2 hours, the color is dark green and towards the blue side. This really frightens me since I was already pumping 4 to 5 bps (bubble from the CO2 tubing itself). Now, I need to pump more CO2.


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