# Getting rid of GSA....



## MCHRKiller (Jul 25, 2008)

I am currently running a 3ft 50G Seaclear, all plants are doing well and growing nicely. The only real issue I am having is Green Spot Algae on my Anubias and tank walls. No issues with other algae. I have a Current Nova 2x39watt fixture with brand new bulbs running 7hrs per day. I have pressurized CO2 injection being misted through the Rio RVT pump. I do EI dosing and a 50% WC on Sundays.

I am fairly sure my lighting is the issue....I plan to add some floating plants to cut some of the light from the anubias. What could I do to remove the algae from the plants in the mean time? Would a soak of bleach or peroxide be acceptable without melting my plants?


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## natebuchholz (Sep 28, 2013)

You could also spot treat excel. Do you have a means to measure the amount of co2 in your tank? I'm just wondering if this is the variable that is out of wack?


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## MCHRKiller (Jul 25, 2008)

I have a drop checker...its always in the lime green. I also keep my regulator set on 25psi working pressure.

I dose the tank with Metricide daily as well


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## natebuchholz (Sep 28, 2013)

I see, thanks for the info, just trying to rule out some variables


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## greaser84 (Feb 2, 2014)

A bleach dip 20 parts water 1 part bleach will work, I've done it several times with anubias. When I do it I only dip the leaves for 30-60 seconds, then rinse them off several times and set them in a bucket with a lot of seachem prime and water. I will keep them in the prime until I can't smell bleach. Check your phosphate levels as well.

You can do a weaker bleach solution as well.


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## MCHRKiller (Jul 25, 2008)

lol no problem. All ideas and suggestions are welcome, I want this to be my "nice" looking tank but with the anubias with all that algae on them it kind of kills the vibe.


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## natebuchholz (Sep 28, 2013)

Are they in a high light area? sometimes gsa is unavoidable on slow growing plants and the only way to combat this is a shadier spot for them to live.


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## MCHRKiller (Jul 25, 2008)

They are in the front of the tank...the fixture sits directly above the swords/hygro so they are in the shadiest space I have. I may just have to periodically take them out and dip them. I am going to be removing the hygro because my Flying fox wont leave it planted, in its place I will be adding a large sword and some floating pennywort to hopefully cut back the intensity of the light.


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## rick dale (Feb 26, 2014)

*gsa*

Green spot algae is usually a sign of low phosphates. You definitely don't have too much light , and your photo period is fine. Scrape the algae off the tank walls and check up your phosphates. Worked for me.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Try Dwarf Water Lettuce. Easier to regulate the amount.
Never tried a bleach dip. The GSa won't just come off by it's self, but my snails eat it once I turned down the light. Shade is the same thing as turning it down. Real shade. Under something. Had two T8 bulbs in a 10g and got the GSA all over the leaves. It's dieing/w one bulb. Won't rub off while it's still in good condition. You'll hurt the leaves first.
Two T5 bulbs is quite a bit of light for 17-18" above the sub.
Seems to work out well in a fully planted 55g.
Lack of enough circulation can be an issue/w CO2. Heard a couple on here say the algae went away after using a power head.


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## MCHRKiller (Jul 25, 2008)

Thanks I will also try to increase my phosphate dosage and see how that goes. I honestly dont test my water(horrible I know) so I will have to invest in some test kits as well.

My tank is 36Lx15Wx20H, substrate is about 3" in the back and tapers down to about 2" in the front with about 1" in the center font. The Current fixture is on its standard legs so I would say the a. nana are about 21-22" from the bulb...the larger a. barteri which is the worst effected on the right is probably about 16" from the fixture on the higher leaves. Being that this is an acrylic tank Ive always been apprehensive about plecos or otos. I do have MTS since the substrate is just PFS.


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