# Fluval Plant 3.0 Lighting Schedules and Programming



## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

This is a thread to share programming tips, schedules, and app screenshots for the Fluval Plant 3.0 and the Plant 3.0 Nano. Please use other threads for light shopping and comparisons.


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## Turbonut (Mar 11, 2020)

Following, this should be interesting, there’s a guy on YouTube thats talks about it a lil bit, right now I have the nano led, just did the update so now I have pro mode but just use it in auto for now.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

Here is my medium-power dual siesta for my organic soil nano tanks. I will also share a lower-power version.

Please note that the Warm White percentages don't show in this screenshot.


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## Turbonut (Mar 11, 2020)

Streetwise said:


> Here is my medium-power dual siesta for my organic soil nano tanks. I will also share a lower-power version.
> 
> Please note that the Warm White percentages don't show in this screenshot.


What are the advantages of running the lights like this?


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

There are two reasons for a siesta or two.

In an organic soil tank, you get a bit of CO2 from decomposition in the soil. I can see it in my Apex pH logs. Nighttime gives the biggest boost, but you get a smaller one with each siesta, but with diminishing returns (like naps). The broken-up schedule is fine for the plants, but not as conducive for algae, compared to the same light in one long photoperiod.

However, the primary reason is so the hobbyist can enjoy the tank in the morning, mid-day, and at night, without a ridiculously long photoperiod that would cause algae problems. So I get to wake up with my tanks before work, and also before bedtime.


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## Turbonut (Mar 11, 2020)

Streetwise said:


> There are two reasons for a siesta or two.
> 
> In an organic soil tank, you get a bit of CO2 from decomposition in the soil. I can see it in my Apex pH logs. Nighttime gives the biggest boost, but you get a smaller one with each siesta, but with diminishing returns (like naps). The broken-up schedule is fine for the plants, but not as conducive for algae, compared to the same light in one long photoperiod.
> 
> However, the primary reason is so the hobbyist can enjoy the tank in the morning, mid-day, and at night, without a ridiculously long photoperiod that would cause algae problems. So I get to wake up with my tanks before work, and also before bedtime.


Ok, gotcha


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## Quint (Mar 24, 2019)

Ill get another shot of the break down later at some point but this is what I have been running for a while now on my low tech 40B and its been working well with my setup. Dose ThriveC twice a week with some added phosphates and potassium. 

FYI my light is raised about 2" above the tank to get better spread since its a 40B


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

You can rename your light.


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## Turbonut (Mar 11, 2020)

Streetwise said:


> You can rename your light.


Yep I noticed that


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## Quint (Mar 24, 2019)

Thanks Streetwise, yeah just wasnt worried about it in the least to be honest. Had enough troubles updating to the pro version then figuring out how to setup all the points lol. I do save the programs to names I come up with but with only one fluval light not to worried about it.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

I'm really happy to have my dual siesta these days since I am stuck in my room most of the time. My only true routine is waking up with the tanks, and then watching them ramp down to blue at night.

This is the low power version of my schedule:


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## Discusluv (Dec 24, 2017)

This is excellent! Thanks again for this!


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## KaylSoftpaws (Aug 23, 2019)

This is awesome. I've been trying to find something that gave a general range for low, medium, and high light for the fluval 3.0. My percentages are working for one tank, but it has higher light plants in it. The other tanks, I'm not so sure about.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

I just got a 15" Fluval. My Nano programs would not copy so I had to start again.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

These schedules have been working really well for me for months now. Everything is pretty balanced with plant health and algae control.


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## p0tluck (Feb 17, 2017)

Could I get someone to tell me if this is running to hard for a low tech no c02 tank, it's a 55,gallon 18" from substrate to light, anubias is closer to the light as well, if so could one of you programming gurus help me out with modification, I had a stroke in December and have issues, I still have algae issues plants still not rebounding from me being in the hospital, I dose nilcog dry ferts macro and micro, I want to run about 35-50 par I was told but I'm not sure, I have just ferns, anubias, crypts, Amazon sword, rotala rotundifolia, bacopa, money wart, can't get water sprite, Wisteria or vals to even grow in this tank. Much appreciated if someone can help








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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

That would seem to grow plants from the percentages. The graph makes it look almost all red though.

@Streetwise I'm on the fence about getting two more of these for my pair of living room tanks. Not enough coverage currently and I wind up moving them throughout the week. I think with another matching set on each tank, I could run them at half the intensity the main ones are at, and duplicate my siesta. While receiving "pandemic pay" I hate to shell out $300 for accessory lighting, but I can't think of anything else I could set to turn down in unison. Love that the duel siesta is working for you.


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

Below are my settings for 2 x 36" Fluval planted 3.0's on a 36" wide 56 gallon aquarium. Lighting stays low for quite awhile to avoid algae and peak is only one hour. Pure white and warm white are lower because it tend to look too yellowish to my eyes. Night light (1 % blue only) is on for one hour then, lights are off completely. CO2 turns on at 14:30, 1/2 hour before lights reach 10 % brightness.


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## fermentedfunk (May 15, 2020)

p0tluck said:


> Could I get someone to tell me if this is running to hard for a low tech no c02 tank, it's a 55,gallon 18" from substrate to light, anubias is closer to the light as well, if so could one of you programming gurus help me out with modification, I had a stroke in December and have issues, I still have algae issues plants still not rebounding from me being in the hospital, I dose nilcog dry ferts macro and micro, I want to run about 35-50 par I was told but I'm not sure, I have just ferns, anubias, crypts, Amazon sword, rotala rotundifolia, bacopa, money wart, can't get water sprite, Wisteria or vals to even grow in this tank. Much appreciated if someone can help
> View attachment 899475
> 
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk


What is the size of your light? I have the 24"-34" model on my 55 gallon corner tank (also 18" from substrate).

Here are a couple things that may be useful (Using the 24"-34" as reference; if you have a different size then these numbers will need to be tweaked). 
• *The PAR of this light at 18" depth is somewhere around 57 par with all the LEDs set to 100% (I'm assuming this is with no glass on top...glass will cut this down by a few par). *
• Your light ratios look less than ideal. The app has different presets built in, with optimal light ratios. Go to "Export" at the bottom of the interface and load the "Planted" preset. The Planted preset should provide around 50 par. 
• If you want less light, reduce each of the LED colors on the Planted preset downward by the same percentage. 
For example, if you want 30 par, reduce each color in the default Planted preset by 40%. 
That would be Pink: 51%. Blue: 12%. Cold White: 44%. Pure White: 60%. Warm White: 48%.
• It looks like you are only running your max brightness for 2 hours a day. The rest of the day with reduced percentages is not going to be enough light for a proper photoperiod. 

Im growing moneywort, Rotala, hydrocotyl Japan, and water wisteria, no-CO2 low tech, with no problems at this level (and an Anubias in the shadows at the back of the tank).


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## p0tluck (Feb 17, 2017)

fermentedfunk said:


> What is the size of your light? I have the 24"-34" model on my 55 gallon corner tank (also 18" from substrate).
> 
> Here are a couple things that may be useful (Using the 24"-34" as reference; if you have a different size then these numbers will need to be tweaked).
> • *The PAR of this light at 18" depth is somewhere around 57 par with all the LEDs set to 100% (I'm assuming this is with no glass on top...glass will cut this down by a few par). *
> ...


I have the 48" I was told it's closer to 100 par At 18", when I had the 3 hour photo period at 80% I had hard spot algae all over the glass within 4-5 days also increasing the phosphate dosage didn't help neither so I lowered it to 60% which cut down on the hard spot algae, I got this preset from Bently Pascoe's YouTube but it's just to strong I believe, this light is strong unless hard spot can be caused by something else, also what I was told about how this lighting program works is you can run the light longer with lower intensities getting better results, like example the old program if you ran the light for 12 hours with say 80% as you had limited customization you'd have algae soup, with this running it how I am you can get away with running it for 12 hours because of the different intensities? my light when I first programmed it was running for 12.5 hours with a 3 hour 80% intensity and that was way too strong I believe unless again, hard spot is caused by something other than light , and my anubias is not in shadows I was silly and put it higher up In the tank On wood. 

My anubias Is wrecked, it has hard spot algae all over it so I'm nursing them back to health. 

The real bummer is before my stroke I had it going very well, when I was in the hospital for 9 days someone left the light on 24/7 and also dumped half a huge can of fish flake in the tank, when I got home the tank I didn't think was fixable hair algae 8ft long, green spot almost impossible to scrape off the glass, destroyed the anubias, it's going really slow I probably would of been better off to just buy new anubias and put this stuff in another container instead of nursing it back to health in my main tank, since my stroke I don't have the mental strength to fix it without asking for help, I'll get better but for now I need assistance, so I like how the tank comes on and off, how would I replicate the planted preset the way I have it now with the same on time so I can enjoy it. 

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View attachment 899641


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## fermentedfunk (May 15, 2020)

p0tluck said:


> I have the 48" I was told it's closer to 100 par At 18", when I had the 3 hour photo period at 80% I had hard spot algae all over the glass within 4-5 days also increasing the phosphate dosage didn't help neither so I lowered it to 60% which cut down on the hard spot algae, I got this preset from Bently Pascoe's YouTube but it's just to strong I believe, this light is strong unless hard spot can be caused by something else, also what I was told about how this lighting program works is you can run the light longer with lower intensities getting better results, like example the old program if you ran the light for 12 hours with say 80% as you had limited customization you'd have algae soup, with this running it how I am you can get away with running it for 12 hours because of the different intensities? my light when I first programmed it was running for 12.5 hours with a 3 hour 80% intensity and that was way too strong I believe unless again, hard spot is caused by something other than light , and my anubias is not in shadows I was silly and put it higher up In the tank On wood.
> 
> My anubias Is wrecked, it has hard spot algae all over it so I'm nursing them back to health.
> 
> ...


The 48" is around 82 par at 18" depth (with all lights to 100%). Fluval didn't publish their par ratings for the 3.0, but they did publish them for the 2.0, so I use those numbers for the guideline (2.0 and 3.0 should be pretty similar performance-wise...some reports say the par rating of the 3.0 is actually a little lower than the 2.0, but only by a small amount if any). So I'd guess it's actually something like 75 par in real world use. That also meshes with the numbers given in this review: https://coolfish.network/fluval-plant-3-0-vs-finnex-planted-24-7-cc/. 

Still, 80% of 75par is 60par...still too bright. 

If you want to try ~30 par with that light and mimic the Planted preset ratios, set your brightest period to:
Pink: 34%
Blue: 8%
Cold White: 29%
Pure White: 40%
Warm White: 32%

Also keep in mind that if you target 30par with this setup, you need to keep it at the intensities above long enough for the photoperiod to work. Probably 4 to 6 hours minimum, but safe at 8 hours assuming the rest of the tank is balanced.

And assuming this puts things back in balance, it will take some weeks of consistency to see results. It will take a while for everything to reset and settle in to a new schedule.


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## p0tluck (Feb 17, 2017)

fermentedfunk said:


> The 48" is around 82 par at 18" depth (with all lights to 100%). Fluval didn't publish their par ratings for the 3.0, but they did publish them for the 2.0, so I use those numbers for the guideline (2.0 and 3.0 should be pretty similar performance-wise...some reports say the par rating of the 3.0 is actually a little lower than the 2.0, but only by a small amount if any). So I'd guess it's actually something like 75 par in real world use. That also meshes with the numbers given in this review: https://coolfish.network/fluval-plant-3-0-vs-finnex-planted-24-7-cc/.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Am I understanding this program wrong? I have the light come on at 25% for an hour then 45% for an hour then 60% for 2 hours then 55% for an hour, then 40% then 30% that's not enough for a photo period? 

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## fermentedfunk (May 15, 2020)

p0tluck said:


> Am I understanding this program wrong? I have the light come on at 25% for an hour then 45% for an hour then 60% for 2 hours then 55% for an hour, then 40% then 30% that's not enough for a photo period?
> 
> Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk



With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:

1 hour at ~19 par
1 hour at ~34 par
2 hours at ~45 par
1 hour at ~41 par 
1 hour at ~30 par
1 hour at ~23 par
1 hour at ~19 par

So if your goal is an 8 hour photoperiod at 30 par, you're only actually getting that for 1 hour. The rest of the time, you're either under or over. 

That's one of the issues I have with using really long ramp-up and ramp down times. The vast majority of the photoperiod is spent transitioning through un-optimal light levels rather than aiming for a target and sticking with it.


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## p0tluck (Feb 17, 2017)

fermentedfunk said:


> With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


My goal isn't 30 par I don't know what the goal should be someone said for low light 30-50 but i don't honestly know, I'm actually going to upgrade to a 120 gallon with c02 I think as I want a 6ft tank, that's if my testing comes back good, don't want to invest all that money and me not be able to do anything with it , my rotala grow amazing even the bases of the streams aren't bare so I don't want to change to drastically, when I did this setting I had green spot algae in 4-5 days.. Not the 65% one I can't delete that for some reason 
View attachment 899649

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## p0tluck (Feb 17, 2017)

fermentedfunk said:


> With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Sorry for the delayed response had a family is ue, I've changed it to this, it's approx 35-40 par for 4-5.5 hours still trying to learn how this works, would this be sufficient photo period or to much? Blue is still up in the teens should I lower the blue?









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## j_iffy (May 29, 2020)

Uh oh... I've had this light for about a month and a half now and I guess I've been using it wrong.

Currently, I have this light on 100% everything for about 11 hours everyday with a 15 minute ramp up and ramp down included. I thought that the carpeting plants (DBT, Glosso, and DHG) would need the high light that this would offer but it seems that running 100% is not a good idea?

I have a 55 G (48x13x21) that is growing like CRAZY but I also just started getting algae like crazy. Is 100% a bad idea? If so, what are some different programs I can make it where I'll still be able to hit the carpeting plants but not have so much light where algae also thrives?

(Yes CO2 and ferts)


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

I can only say that in my own (CO2 and ferts) tanks, they'd be algae farms with these running at 100%. I peak around 70% twice daily holding for about 90 minutes each peak, ramping up and down in between. Maybe tinker with yours and see if you can find a spot where there's good plant growth with less nuisance algae.


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## j_iffy (May 29, 2020)

Blue Ridge Reef said:


> I can only say that in my own (CO2 and ferts) tanks, they'd be algae farms with these running at 100%. I peak around 70% twice daily holding for about 90 minutes each peak, ramping up and down in between. Maybe tinker with yours and see if you can find a spot where there's good plant growth with less nuisance algae.


I just don't know how much I need to keep the carpeting plants going well. Do you mind throwing in a picture of the settings that work well for you if you get a chance sometime?


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

I can but it's not going to be much to go on for your tank. I have fissidens and epiphytes mostly, few stems and nothing carpeting, plus 24" deep tanks. I'm at work and evidently have to be close to my lights to connect before I can screen grab. Will when i get home.


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## Streetwise (May 24, 2019)

Blue Ridge Reef said:


> That would seem to grow plants from the percentages. The graph makes it look almost all red though.
> 
> @Streetwise I'm on the fence about getting two more of these for my pair of living room tanks. Not enough coverage currently and I wind up moving them throughout the week. I think with another matching set on each tank, I could run them at half the intensity the main ones are at, and duplicate my siesta. While receiving "pandemic pay" I hate to shell out $300 for accessory lighting, but I can't think of anything else I could set to turn down in unison. Love that the duel siesta is working for you.


Sorry for the late reply. I have been running this schedule on nine lights for a long time now, but I have tuned the levels per tank size. I have not had algae problems for a long time. I have also been able to enjoy my tanks for many hours a day while working from home.

Cheers


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## Hujeta (Jan 26, 2020)

Has anyone been doing PAR readings on the nano light? I'm running below schedule on 2x Fluval Nano for my 24g long (120x40x30cm /36x16x12 inches). Blasting away with light and CO2 for that nice HC carpet. Cut back on hours due to replant. The highlight of the day is at 3 pm when the lights starts ramping up, hitting peak light just before 4 (the best signal to start wrapping up at work :biggrin...


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## p0tluck (Feb 17, 2017)

fermentedfunk said:


> With that schedule, using your prior settings, this is what's happening:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Still having crazy issues,I tried keeping it at a higher level for 5 hours with the gradual tapering off with the other levels, I have insane hair algae now grrr, you said in an earlier post I didn't have a long enough photo period that's why I tried extending those levels up to 5 hours bad idea lol, so now I went to planted and decreased those high numbers for those long periods of time down 30-40% kept the length and with the seista I went a bit lower almost completely off for 30 min longer, does this look okay to try for a few weeks to see if thus works or is this not strong enough? Let's forget the set par people said I should shoot for that just complicates things, before my stroke I was running my tank at 7.5 hours with higher percentages but I did have minor hair algae issues with those so I went a bit lower, I also adjusted my dosing, gonna try this for a few weeks if it looks okay to you and others if it don't work I think I need to rethink this hobby lol









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## evil8 (Aug 7, 2018)

Hujeta said:


> Has anyone been doing PAR readings on the nano light?


I'd be interested too. I'm running the Planted preset at 90% with some floaters on a waterbox clear 16.


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## eethomp (Jul 20, 2020)

I wish Fluval would put out a PAR chart. I have the 22W model over a 10g. Plants are growing well but I'm grappling with hair algae. The planted preset at 100% gave me GSA and fuzz so I shortened the photoperiod and cut back to about 2/3, but now around the edges of the tank the intensity seems a little low for the monte carlo. I'm wondering if I need a DIY riser.


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