# DIY LED for 120G (Half ordered!)



## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I am not a DIY guy, I don't make my own dried goods, my own filters or diffusers or anything else like that! But, today is different, I plan on doing my own 40+ LED fixture for my 120 Gallon tank (48x24x24).

This is a thread for advice on my current stock list of equipment, once I feel I have the right list I will order and begin the designing stage of the fixture and separate housing for the Drivers and timers. I currently have an idea for an industrial looking fixture. Maybe an Airplane Hanger style (Half Circle) hanging with a couple of fans. Something to that effect.

I will update this thread as much as possible and I hope all the LED DIYer's lend a hand!



Feel free to ask questions or give advice!

Thanks.

So this is the current list of parts:



3	1-48HS 1.1" x 48" Aluminum Heatsink $44.00 $132.00

1	DDC-01 DDC-01 PWM Controller $59.00 $59.00

3	ELN-60-48P Mean Well ELN-60-48P dimmable driver $34.00 $102.00

42 XM-L Optic Degree: 60 $2.48 $104.16 (is a 60 Degree optic good for a 48x24x24 tank?)

21 CREE XM-L Cool White T5 $6.80 $142.80

21 CREE XM-L Neutral White T5 $6.95 $145.95

50 Thermal Tape Preform 20mm Star $0.69 $34.50


Close to 750. Not including the optional and expensive-because-of-my-taste stuff like the enclosure build, hanging kit, Timers, Digital AMP meters, Misc wires and stuff.

Plus I also want to add a 4th row with about 4 Ebay LED's since I wont have any shimmer with the amount of light coming from 40+ LED's. It'll be a cool white moonlight with no optics, just for the shimmer effect when the main lights are off. But this will be later on and I am in no rush for this feature.

Each of the three rows of Heatsinks will have 14 LED's spaced out 3.5 inches.

One of the few concerns so far:

I want to go with a Cool white and a neutral white. I am thinking that would be on the bluer side to the eyes correct, like a 10,000k T5? Do you think an even split of those two colors would be sufficient? I Don't want too much blue, but I would like the greens and a couple of the reds in the tank to pop!

If I wanted to add an Arduino (spelling?) system later on, would I be able to do it with the three 48P's and the PWM? I don't want to close myself in and not be able to upgrade for future software.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I dreamt of LED's last night ... Regretting it now.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

wow this is going to be an epic build. Good luck. Sounds like you got a top of the line system. What are you planning as an enclosure for your fixture?


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

ooh man this is going to be epic.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I have this fixture in my head. Kind of like the ADA fixtures, half circular. I saw some AMP meters on eBay that have blue digital screens, I think they would look nice on one side of the fixture. Some switches for each row of lights and the shimmer lights. It'll have 2-4 80mm fans on the top of it. I would like to get a piece of aluminum and drill holes in it the same size of the LEDs so that I can cover the wiring. Exposed wires can look cool as we've seen on the other members threads but I would like a cleaner look. Or just use plexiglass. It's going to be about a foot or so off the surface of the tank.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I did something similar to the ADA fixtures
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/t...um/132588-iwgfs-riparium-w-ada-style-led.html

and a little bigger one
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/135340-another-led-fixture-build-now-video.html

You're going above and beyond w/ the drivers and stuff though, I'm just using constant current ones.

btw, instead of buying those preformed star adhesive thingies, why don't you just buy some thermal adhesive. It's like cheaper than buying all those individual ones


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I agree about the drivers but that's because I don't want three potentiometers with all the extra wiring running around everywhere. I would rather have just the one PWM to adjust each brightness of each driver. So with a constant driver there is no way to adjust the brightness just in case it's too much light?

I forgot I still had the adhesive in the cart. I wanted to see how much they would run me! I am getting pre drilled heatsinks.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

From Rapidled? You don't need predrilled heatsinks, waste of money. The thermal adhesive works just as well. All my LEDs are held on w/ the adhesive. It's actually really hard to pry off.

I wish I had gone w/ the dimmable drivers. It's a gamble going w/ the constant currents since you can't adjust the lighting but luckily I can raise my fixture as needed.

To be honest, I'm not even sure you'll need the optics at 1000ma. I only have the 60 degree optics over the plants that I want to BLAST with light. Without them I still get about 50-60umols at about 30 inches from the substrate.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I would consider raising the light to 2 feet above the tank, and using 40 degree optics. The advantage of this is reducing the spread of PAR from top to bottom of the tank. You should still get high light even at 2 feet height.

If you mount the drivers, dimmer circuits, and ammeters remotely, there is no mess of wires in the light. Just use a cable with enough wires in it to carry all of the various power supplies to the light, and a DIN style connector to connect it to the light. (See my thread for a picture - not a great one, but you can see the connector) You should be able to connect all of the negatives in the light to one wire, and run separate wires only for the positives, which will be at different voltages and currents.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

How sure are you about the optics? Cuz thats about a 100 bucks. Won't 36 inches be too much?? What if I put 60s on the outer perimeter LED's? I don't know if that makes sense?

I really would like to get a PAR meter so I can see where I'll be at 36 inches. But I wont use it so often.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

The only reason why I wouldn't want it 2 feet over the surface is mostly for light spilling out into the rooms, and when I am sitting in front of the tank. I am pretty sure when I do the outer shell of the fixture I will be able to "drape" the sheet metal a few inches past the heatsinks/leds but will it be enough?


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

On my 36 inch light, the front actually drapes over by several inches so that the light doesn't spill out into the living room.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Hoppy, why not lower it and use 60 degree optics? Is the drop in PAR that much? I don't really want to hang my light 2 feet off the tank either, as it is now, it's about 1 foot


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## redfishsc (Aug 29, 2010)

Sounds exciting!

By the way, the neutral white/cool white combo will NOT look blue. Cool white is 6500K (give or take a little). The colors will look nicer than a CFL bulb, probably, but definitely nothing "blue". 

You can toss in 1 Cree XPE for every 4 XML to get a little more blue color. No optic on the blue.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Red do you mean add more LED's for every 4 XMLs or switch out every 4th XML for a XPE for the blues? I don't know if I can afford anymore LED's currently lol!


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I have 4 XP-e blue's running at 350ma. They don't really cast a noticable blue over the tank but I do notice it on my green neons. With them on the blue is a lot brighter.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

IWANNAGOFAST said:


> Hoppy, why not lower it and use 60 degree optics? Is the drop in PAR that much? I don't really want to hang my light 2 feet off the tank either, as it is now, it's about 1 foot


When the light is one foot from the water surface and 3 feet from the substrate, the PAR at the top of the tank can be nearly 9 times as high as at the substrate - not that much, but still many times higher. With the light 2 feet from the water and 4 feet from the substrate, the light at the top of the water will be less than 4 times what it is at the substrate. That can aid considerably in avoiding algae.

With 60 degree optics, at 12 inches away from the LED, the light cone will be about 12 inches in diameter, so there will be no spillover over a 24 inch front to back tank. At two feet from the LEDs, the cone will be about 24 inches in diameter, so a little spill over is possible, but not much. With 40 degree optics the cone is about 2/3 that large in diameter, or 8 inches in dia at one foot and 16 inches in dia at two feet - no spillover at all. With the number of LEDs you are using, there will be no noticeable spotlighting at 4 feet, with either 40 or 60 degree optics, but the intensity will be greater with the 40 degree optics because more of the light will directly illuminate the substrate, without first reflecting off the glass, which wastes some of the light.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Interesting... I guess this is the method to use to use fewer LEDs right? If one were to use more LEDs, the optics would not be necessary?


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

If it's 4 times less par at the surface wouldn't it be even less at the substrate? 

So if the issue with having it so close to the surface (1 foot) is because of the amount of LEDs couldn't I just lower the amount I have? That would save money. Could there be a balance of enough LEDs to cover the footprint of the tank but not too many to have to raise it up higher? I know too few LEDs won't Give me enough par but too many will be algae heaven lol.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

The problem is that the intensity of the light drops proportional to the square of the distance from the LEDs. That relationship can't be defeated. But, with lots of LEDs, the light source is distributed all over the top of the tank, so as you get closer to the LEDs, the rise in intensity stops going up with the distance squared, since fewer and fewer are illuminating that spot. That means, with just a few LEDs providing all of the light, that inverse square relationship remains valid up to pretty close to the LEDs.

The point you missed is that if you have 50 mms of PAR at the substrate, with both setups - one with the LEDs 1 foot above the tank, and the other with the LEDs 2 feet above the tank - the one with the LEDs closer to the tank has a much higher PAR near the water surface than the one with the LEDs farther from the tank. But, both have 50 mms of PAR at the substrate.

It will work either way, but the higher above the tank the light is, the less variation in PAR from top to bottom of the tank. The sun is 93 million miles away, and the sunlight intensity varies not at all over even a 10 foot distance. But, our lights are typically right at the top of the tank, so the intensity varies a lot over a 2 foot distance.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

I believe Hoppy is saying that the narrower 40° angle and to a slightly lesser extent the 60° angle optics will drop off less from top to bottom as the beam is spreading less over distance compared to the close up no optics option @ ~120°. The narrower optics angle + distance will give you a more uniform PAR level from surface to substrate.

If I ever do a rimless tank, I'll go for the narrow optics and try to illuminate just the tank and not the surrounding area. It would look very nice in a dimmed light viewing room. Sort of like a spotlight on a work of art some people set up track lighting for. Paintings, sculptures, etc.

Edit: looks like Hoppy explained it himself before I could post LOL.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

audioaficionado said:


> I believe Hoppy is saying that the narrower 40° angle and to a slightly lesser extent the 60° angle optics will drop off less from top to bottom as the beam is spreading less over distance compared to the close up no optics option @ ~120°. The narrower optics angle + distance will give you a more uniform PAR level from surface to substrate.
> 
> If I ever do a rimless tank, I'll go for the narrow optics and try to illuminate just the tank and not the surrounding area. It would look very nice in a dimmed light viewing room. Sort of like a spotlight on a work of art some people set up track lighting for. Paintings, sculptures, etc.
> 
> Edit: looks like Hoppy explained it himself before I could post LOL.


And, the optics don't affect the inverse square relationship. The optics make the PAR at any distance higher than without the optics, but the intensity still follows the inverse square relationship. But, if the light is one inch above the tank, the intensity at the top of the tank will be 100 times that at 10 inches from the light - 10/1 squared. If the light is 10 inches from the top of the tank, the intensity at the top of the tank will be 4 times that 10 inches down in the tank - 20/10 squared. 

In my opinion the benefit of the optics is to get more of the LED light directly on the substrate, instead of having half of it reflected off the inside of the glass to the bottom of the tank, where half of the light may be lost.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I hope some of you guys are subscribed so you can help out with these next questions:

So Justincgdick and I were going over the led choices I've made so far and we both agree that the lights will be more on the warmer side so I am going to add 6 Royal Blue Led's. I will remove 6 of the Neutral Whites and run the RB with the CB on one row powered by one 48P. Can I do that being that the RB's are XPE's ([email protected]) and the NW's are XML's ([email protected])? Or would I need a separate driver for the royals? 

First Driver, back of the tank: NW - 3.4 In - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW. 
*
6 Inches
*
Second Driver, Center: CW - 3.4 - RB - CW - RB - CW - RB - CW - RB - CW - RB - CW - RB - CW. 
*
6 Inches
*
Third Driver, Front: NW - 3.4 In - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW.

40* Optics on everything but the RB's.

How does this look? I would like the lighting temp to be closer to 8000k.

or if I cannot do that then how would this work?

First Driver, back: NW - 3.4 In - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW. 
*
* RB 6 Inches RB RB RB
* \ / \ / \ /
Second Driver, Center: NW - 3.4 In - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW.
* / \ / \ / \
* RB 6 Inches RB RB RB
*
Third Driver, Front: NW - 3.4 In - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW - NW - CW.

The Royal Blues will be run on one driver bringing the total to 4 drivers. I'll put those on C channels to save on the price of a heat sink. The Royal Blues will be criss-crossed from one C-channel to the other.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

SO with the addiction of the 4th driver I decided to add 2 more RB's to bring it up to 8. What do you think about Zig Zagging them?


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

So what do the LED experts think?


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

This is what I had in mind ....










I will space the RB's further apart to be able to reach the sides of the tank which is important but the diagram was thrown together because I tend not to describe things so well.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I would wire the blue LEDs so only one wire goes across the middle row, not back and forth. That has no effect on the functioning of the LED array, just makes it neater. I'm still not at all sure what light intensity you will get with this. And, I would put the LEDs on the inside of the channels, not on the outside. That lets the sides of the channels block much of the light from viewers eyes. With high power LEDs that is important.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Well the RBs will be the only ones with the C channel, the rest will be using regular heat sinks. I'm not sure how big the sides are, wouldn't it block out some of the spread of the lights?


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I forgot to mention that I only put those lines to show that those were connected to one driver, although I did think about wiring them that way at first lol.

I'm hoping to get High light with this fixture.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you are using regular finned heatsinks you might want to add some kind of light shields so there is far less chance of someone looking directly at the LEDs. Don't underestimate how bright those little spots of light are.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Oh I totally don't under estimate those bad boys are, I'm one step ahead. I designed the housing to actually overlap the leds by about 5 inches on all four sides. Only way you'll directly see the LED's is if you sit real low as close to the glass as you can. My biggest worry was the light spilling out but I think I took care of it with the overlapping lip. Should come out nice. I'm thinking a mixture of wood frame and the actual fixture in a sheet metal with perhaps a plexiglass splash guard.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

You are on the right track then. Have you received the LEDs yet? I'm still waiting for mine from ledgroupbuy.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I actually haven't even ordered them yet. I see theres about 18 days left till the next order, not sure how it works, can I still jump on a group buy now or do I have to wait till the timer goes down. Either way I wanted to make sure with the amount of money I was spending that I actually get everything that I need. Tomorrow I will be ordering the Drivers, PMW, Heatsinks and Thermal glue. Im totally excited.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

As I understand it, all orders that get there before that "next order" date are included in the order. But, I may be wrong.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

I'm getting set to finish up my fixture this week and during connection/function testing, I noticed that the DDC-01 only dims my ELN-60-48P down to about 15% brightness minimum. 60 watts of LED running at 15% is still pretty darn bright.

FYI...

I've also got some ELN-30-27D and 48D models that I'm getting set to test with the pots I finished wiring this weekend... I'm curious if the DDC will dim the D drivers and how low I can dim them with either the pots or DDC before the driver clips out.


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## jcgd (Feb 18, 2004)

cggorman said:


> I'm getting set to finish up my fixture this week and during connection/function testing, I noticed that the DDC-01 only dims my ELN-60-48P down to about 15% brightness minimum. 60 watts of LED running at 15% is still pretty darn bright.
> 
> FYI...
> 
> I've also got some ELN-30-27D and 48D models that I'm getting set to test with the pots I finished wiring this weekend... I'm curious if the DDC will dim the D drivers and how low I can dim them with either the pots or DDC before the driver clips out.


I'm hoping do only fire up 1 or 2 drivers at a time to keep it as dim as possible and once the brightness increase, add in the other drivers. I don't know it your controller can do that, I'm using an arduino. With this technique I should be able to have a yellow glow at first as well, as ill turn on the neutral whites first and being the blues in towards full sun.


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## cggorman (May 9, 2009)

I don't know the first thing about programming or I would have gone Arduino. May still jump on that train since DDC won't get me the sunrise and sunset I want.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Hoppy from what I understand, the way it works is when that timer ends (18 days left), 19-20 days from that point is when we receive everything. So basically we have 18 days to put in the order and then we have to wait about 20 more days for the LED's to arrive. I'm glad I'm not in a rush. I'm saving like 3 dollars each on the Royal Blues which saves me a lot.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

http://www.ledgroupbuy.com/pages/How-it-works.html But, because the XL-M is a very new model, it is taking longer than usual. And, at about 20 days after the order date is when ledgroupbuy ships out the individual orders, so it can take a few days longer to actually receive them. (I finally read all of the explanations on the website.)


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Hoppy do you think my set up is crappy, good enough or great? Would you change anything?


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

The best thing we are both doing is using dimmable drivers, so if we overshoot on the LEDs we can still dim them enough to get good light. My layout is something I think will work, hope will work, but am not at all sure will work as well as I hope. Yours fits that same category. Until I can get some good PAR data with my layout I can't really guess how good someone else's will be.

I keep thinking I'm almost there, when it comes to being able to figure out how much light a LED layout will give, but adding optics just makes it ten times as difficult to be at all sure. One thing I do know - after I get mine completed and tested I will be better off than now. Then, of course Cree will come up with something so much better that the learning curve will have to start all over again.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks Hoppy, thats good enough for me to green light myself lol.

I am ordering the PWM, four 48P drivers and three 1.1x48 in Heatsinks from rapid right now.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Wow Done! 352.00. Yikes lol. Thats only half, no LED's yet. Thats 364.00!


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## kokomon (May 23, 2011)

This was awesome! good job


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Thanks koko. I'm pretty excited !


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Using the equation which seems to fit the data I now have with other LED lights, 









I calculated what I would expect you to get from this fixture:

Assuming XM-L white LEDs, with them spaced 3.4 inches apart in 3 rows, 6 inches apart, or 12 LEDs per square foot.
Assuming the the use of 40 degree optics on the LEDs.
Assuming the light will be 36 inches from the substrate:

At 1300 mAmps - 475 mms of PAR
At 700 mAmps - 270 mms of PAR
At 350 mAmps - 135 mms of PAR
At 200 mAmps - 80 mms of PAR

Those are all with all of the white LEDs running at those currents. That would be very high light, much too high for a planted tank. If my assumptions are all correct I think I would use a spacing of about 6.5 inches between the LEDs in each row, about half the total number of LEDs. Or switch to 60 degree optics. Either should drop the PAR by about half or more.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Hoppy wow, you never fail to come through with great data.

What would be a good PAR?

So you think I should just cut down the amount of LED's in half?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

This stuff is great! By the time I get around to building my own, much of the guesswork will have been eliminated. roud:


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

LoL Very true Audio! We are going to have a lot of trial and error here lol!


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I think I would keep the same number of LEDs and switch to 60 degree optics, to get the larger spread of the light. Don't forget, this equation is very, very tentative. I just recalculated my data so that the area used for the LEDs per square foot is the foot print of the array of LEDs plus one space on both dimensions. It shifts the line on the graph a little, but more important, it takes the data point taken with Ebay LEDs much farther off the line. That doesn't surprise me since the number I used for lumens per LED is very much in doubt - actually I think they produce more than the number I used. This still has to wait for more data, especially my data from XM-L LEDs with 40 degree optics.

As far as how much light you should try for is concerned: An ideal light level is 40 mms of PAR at the substrate, with which you can grow just about everything, using CO2. For more flexibility I would want about 100 mms at the maximum current the LED drivers put out, then the dimming circuit allows adjusting it down to what you want.

I recalculated your PAR numbers based on the different way of getting the LEDs per square foot, and I get, for 60 degree optics:
@1300 mAmps = 130 mms of PAR
@700 mAmps = 70 mms of PAR
@350 mAmps = 35 mms of PAR
@200 mAmps = 20 mms of PAR

I like those numbers. You would have solid high light at maximum current, a good amount of light to run with at about 400 mAmps of current, and enough for a low light tank, no CO2 at 200 mAmps.

If my equation is off I suspect the most you would need to do is switch to 40 degree optics or just lower the light to less than 12 inches above the tank. This seems like a pretty safe way to go.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

So 60 Degree optics is what I shall go with then! Thanks Hoppy. I really hope this thread helps people out as much as it has me!


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## fishykid1 (Apr 5, 2010)

Hoppy, not to intrude but if i wanted a similar set up on a 30G reef, would I be looking at 20-30 3 Watters?


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

fishykid1 said:


> Hoppy, not to intrude but if i wanted a similar set up on a 30G reef, would I be looking at 20-30 3 Watters?


I don't know enough about reef tanks to even try to guess.


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## Milad LEDGroupBuy.com (Jan 29, 2011)

Nice build thread. Just to clarify some stuff on LEDGroupBuy.com we take orders up until the end of the group buy date (or the timer on the site hitting 0). We then compile everyones orders, take it out to the manufacturer and have the LEDs built. Once thats done, we get them in, split them up and ship them out. Process can take anywhere between 1week to 3weeks. This is just for the LEDs and some optics (it will say you are pre-ordering on the site). Most of the other stuff we stock so people can pick them up whenever (drivers, adhesive, fans, etc)

As far as the XM-Ls go, they put out alot of light, dont underestimate them. If you pair them up with the right driver, you can turn 1 XM-L into almost 3 XP-Gs.

Great job on this thread, I like to see how it goes, keep us updated as I get alot of questions on planted tanks and don't know much about them, I know much more on reefs.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Wow, thanks for posting on this thread Milad. I'll be ordering from you guys very soon. I am hoping that with the amount I am planning on using that it wont be to much of a problem. This is the reason why I wanted to be able to dim the fixtures.


UPDATE: Drivers, PWM and heatsinks are all scheduled to arrive tomorrow/today the 8th!!


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I got my shipment from RapidLED. Well, they sent me the wrong drivers, they sent me four 48D's instead of four 48P's! lol. They also forgot the thermal glue. Drivers and PWM are so much smaller then I thought. Anyway, I called them and they sent me another package with the 48P's. So it should be here next week.


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## redfishsc (Aug 29, 2010)

fishykid1 said:


> Hoppy, not to intrude but if i wanted a similar set up on a 30G reef, would I be looking at 20-30 3 Watters?


There is a VERY good LED building community over on Nano-reef.com that can help you in more detail there, just look for the lighting forum. 

Your final answer depends more on the dimensions of your tank than the gallon volume.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

I am thinking about cutting down my order to 28 XMLs and 8 Royal Blue XPE's. I don't think I cant afford to do 425 right now. If I cut it down to above mentioned amount I will have a total of 297.

Anyone think this a bad idea??


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

SCREW IT! I ordered the whole shebang ... I feel a little bit disgusted but I know I will be very happy when I finally receive everything!


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Got an email from ledgroupbuy and it's awaiting shipment. As soon as I get everything I'll go pick up the 18 gauge wire, sodering kit, plugs and what ever else I didn't order.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

It's in the mail. A lot faster then I thought it would be.


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## wootlaws (Feb 25, 2011)

Don't underestimate those XM-L's. They are seriously bright at full power. I can't imagine having over 10 of those in a tank.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

The more I think about this, the more I think I'll go with narrow optics to reduce the PAR differential from surface to substrate. It will be a pendant fixture most likely. I'll have to include pendant eye shields so only the tank gets lit and not everyone's retinas LOL.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Woot, that's why I decided to have separate strings for the LEDs. This way, if I have too much light, I can do one of three things; raise the fixture, dim the lights or remove one string since each row has it's own heat sink. which would substantially reduce the lighting. Besides I don't plan on running those lights at more than 60% power.

Audio I'm absolutely putting eye shields as well. I'm also going to be adding a very sleek looking "curtain" to block out all excess light. Perfect for photoshoots.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

LEDs have arrived! Ridiculously fast! I thought it would take another week or two! Pictures to come of everything!


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## jcgd (Feb 18, 2004)

FDNY911 said:


> LEDs have arrived! Ridiculously fast! I thought it would take another week or two! Pictures to come of everything!


What!?!?!? Sad face.... mine haven't even been shipped out yet. And then they have to get through customs and everything else.

I'm happy you got yours though.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Were you involved in this last group purchase? Well I hope you get yours soon man. My girl and her friend re arranged the apartment so of course my iMac got deleted from the living room and I haven't found a place for it yet. So no pics right now. This weekend most of the family will be in town for a reunion so I hope to get the stand and fixture built. Then I'll start with LEDs next week. I still have a couple of things to pick up.


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## jcgd (Feb 18, 2004)

I put my order in on the 18th, the last day of the last group buy. Canada Post was on strike so that could be the delay. I also ordered heat sinks, and both xml and xpg LEDs with optics so any of those could be the delay. The strike is over though, so I have my fingers crossed.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Time for an UPDATE! Still not built, haven't even started, been busy with this holiday weekend.

I just felt I should show some pics of what I do have.














































and this is a fan I found for 1 dollar.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Still need to go get a roll of wire and plugs for the dimmers. I know a place that sells the plugs and all I have to do is hard wire it. They do have to have an out put of no more than 10v correct or can I use any 3 prong extension cord?


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

One thing I did notice was that the PWM will only take 3 drivers. I have 4. Without a PWM for the 4th, it's going to be useless I would imagine. Would it have been better to have the fourth one as a 48D instead of the 48P??? The fourth one is for the 8 Royal Blues leds.


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## faltaren (Jan 11, 2011)

Any updates? Nice tread!


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## VadimShevchuk (Sep 19, 2009)

updates!! Also what is your reason for going led? i assume its the dimmable option? I like leds but for the price your spending you could have had a tek fixture for half the cost.


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## H2OLOVER (Apr 29, 2010)

how did you attach the fan to the heatsink


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

H20, I bought it like that for a dollar! It's an older computer fan.


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## jcgd (Feb 18, 2004)

So have you made any progress on your fixture? I thought I was taking forever... lost my wire strippers and haven't bought new ones yet.


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## FDNY911 (Dec 6, 2009)

Everything is for sale friends! http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/swap-n-shop/151120-out-hobby-sale.html


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