# New Member: Algae hair problem



## The Trigger (May 9, 2012)

Usually caused by too much light. What are your parameters?


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

The light I usually turn on around 8am and turn it off around 8pm. Recently I have been leaving it off every other day or so to see if it helps to kill the algae - It's not helping.

What kind of parameters should I test for?




The Trigger said:


> Usually caused by too much light. What are your parameters?


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Not sure if this helps, but this is the light I have:


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## The Trigger (May 9, 2012)

Well first of all if you're not running co2 that is wayyyyy too much light. 12 hours is too long. Cut your photoperiod down to 8 hours to see if that helps. And try finding a way to raise the light off the tank a bit. You may have it too close to the water. As far as parameters; are you running co2 and what lights are you using?


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

I'm not using co2. I will cut down the hours to about 6 a day based on your recommendation. I can't raise the light anymore.

Here is the exact specs to the light I have:
http://www.adana-usa.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=72_74&products_id=751


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## The Trigger (May 9, 2012)

6 is even better, at least till the algae starts dying back


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

How long do you think this will take?




The Trigger said:


> 6 is even better, at least till the algae starts dying back


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## The Trigger (May 9, 2012)

A couple weeks maybe. You can spot treat with some hydrogen peroxide in the meantime to kill the stuff that's already there. There's no real way to know how long it will take to completely rid your tank though


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

My tank has excess light intentionally. I only keep the light on for 7.5 hrs.
I still get just a bit of algae but I have tried to get just that and finally suceeded
with it. The glass needed to be cleaned every 4 days when I first started learning this. Now it is just a bit hazy and it has been three weeks since it was cleaned.
Try to remember that it took a year for this to build up to this point. It won't go away over night but treating the cause is better than treating the symptom(the algae).
So give it time to reduce it's self by the limited light. 
BTW: If you want to you can also limit the light by using floaters like Salvania which
doesn't take up tank space like the roots of Frog Bit does but is easier to control than Duckweed. You just throw out what you consider excess to get the amount of coverage you want.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Raymond, 

you just jogged my memory. I've always had some frogbit in my tank, which probably blocked the light. A few months ago, my "friend' gave me some plants that had some errant duckweed on it. Pretty soon, my tank was covered in duckweed, which I didn't like. It's too small, it gets everywhere. 

I ended up removing ALL the duckweed, every last bit, and all the frogbit in the process. That was a few months ago. Fast forward to now - the rampant algae problem. I think it's pretty safe to say that I need some frogbit back. I'll check out Salvania too. (Does anyone know where I can get some in SoCal?)

Save for a few hours out of the day, my plan is to leave the tank light off for a few weeks. I'll also put frogbit back into my tank as soon as I can locate some.

How's that sound? Hopefully in time that will remedy the algae problem!






Raymond S. said:


> My tank has excess light intentionally. I only keep the light on for 7.5 hrs.
> I still get just a bit of algae but I have tried to get just that and finally suceeded
> with it. The glass needed to be cleaned every 4 days when I first started learning this. Now it is just a bit hazy and it has been three weeks since it was cleaned.
> Try to remember that it took a year for this to build up to this point. It won't go away over night but treating the cause is better than treating the symptom(the algae).
> ...


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Either of those can be found on e-bay. I'd look in the for sale section on here also.
Placing a specific request in the WTB section also gets results sometimes.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

lol I didnt know you could buy plants on ebay! I found some frogbit!

Going to order now.

Thanks!




Raymond S. said:


> Either of those can be found on e-bay. I'd look in the for sale section on here also.
> Placing a specific request in the WTB section also gets results sometimes.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Just an update for those who kindly helped. I got the frogbit I bought off ebay. I've pretty much only had the light on for a couple hours total the last few days. 

I'll keep going like this for a few weeks and update you with progress.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

After a couple of weeks on that very limited amount of light you should go back to at least 6 or perhaps 7 hrs a day till you have more growth/less algae issues. 
The plants will be stunted/w less than 6 hrs on any continous basis that last more than a week.


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## wheatiesl337 (Mar 30, 2011)

Also, is your light not on a timer? They are so cheap, there is no reason not to have one for a planted tank. It's just asking for problems.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

I'll look into getting a timer once this algae problem goes away... Thank you..




wheatiesl337 said:


> Also, is your light not on a timer? They are so cheap, there is no reason not to have one for a planted tank. It's just asking for problems.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Well, I've had the light off for the better part of about 10 days now. So far the algae definitely hasnt gotten worse. I can't say it's gotten a whole lot better, but maybe 5-10% less algae if I have to guess. Still a ton. I'll let you know how it progresses in another week.


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

If you want a 'quick fix', check out API AlgaeFix, unless you do have inverts. If you use it, do remember to increase your surface agitation.

I am UN-happy to report that I do have a 5g bucket full of java fern and algae.. without light, ferts, heater, or any circulation ... for over 6 months now. Algae is doing just fine, thank you.

Point being that with less light all flora's growth slows way down, including algae. It will die much later, after all the plants.

I would focus on making the plants healty and growing fast, not in killing the algae.

v3


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

acf said:


> Well, I've had the light off for the better part of about 10 days now. So far the algae definitely hasnt gotten worse. I can't say it's gotten a whole lot better, but maybe 5-10% less algae if I have to guess. Still a ton. I'll let you know how it progresses in another week.


Usually a quick fix means back to the same old after you stopped whatever you did for the quick fix. Still your choice of course.
And the longer you prolong the messing/w the lights thing, the more or longer your plants will take to recover from it. Still your choice.
There are lots of people on here who have had this problem AND solved it by using the suggestions from here on that problem.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

If there is a different method, I'm open to it. 

As a plan B I can try the API AlgaeFix. I have a few snails and one shrimp. Maybe I can get them out before I treat the tank. I need to do more research on this medication though before I decide.

What sounds like a good plan A is focusing on making the plants healthy and growing fast like OVT suggested. How is the best way to accomplish this? I have since added a lot more frog bit. Enough to cover almost half of the surface area. What else can I do?


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

I didn't see anything about ferts in here so looks like you have high teck level lights without any of the other things that go/w it. This took a long time to get like this.
It won't go away over night. If you research the Algaefix and think you want to use
it then do that. As it breaks loose from the plants try to siphon some of the dead stuff off of the plants when you change water.
Do you have the frog bit yet ? Does that light fixture have a plastic "shield" between the bulbs and the tank, like that slides into the bottom of the fixture ?
If it does you can get some screen wire and cut with scissors to fit inside of the fixture between the bulbs and the shield. Two layers to start/w.
I have the cheapest timer Walmart sells and it does loose time but for $7 I can set it forward a couple of times every couple of months. 
I use 7.5 hrs in my tank/w T8(x2) bulbs but you might try 6.5 to start. You won't get much growth without some ferts. Osmocoat+ root capsules are not expensive and are sold on this link by someone on here. Way down the scrole.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=506393&highlight=
This will mostly stay in the substrate and that way the plant roots get it more than the algae does.
So removing the algae with Algaefix gives the plants some light and the ferts give them food to grow.
A small amount of plants or even a bit more of them will grow without ferts if the light is moderate/low because they can live off of the fish waste and fish food nutrients. But once you get any real number of plants they quickly use up all the nutrients that they might get from those sources.


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## TekWarren (Oct 6, 2013)

I had a good experience recently using Hydrogen peroxide on BBA maybe that would work on this? With the spread you have, I would use a spray bottle to hit the generally affected areas. Based mostly on what I read here in the forums, I turned my canister filter off when treating (maybe 30 minutes?) and 10-15 minutes in I would turn the powerhead back on to circulate. 

I have to say that the first picture actually looks kinda cool with the hair algae on the long thing leaves but I know you don't want it.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

I've never heard of the Hydrogen Peroxide technique. 

As for the hair algae looking cool on the crypts... when my friends come over they say the same thing, and I'm like NOOOOOO......




TekWarren said:


> I had a good experience recently using Hydrogen peroxide on BBA maybe that would work on this? With the spread you have, I would use a spray bottle to hit the generally affected areas. Based mostly on what I read here in the forums, I turned my canister filter off when treating (maybe 30 minutes?) and 10-15 minutes in I would turn the powerhead back on to circulate.
> 
> I have to say that the first picture actually looks kinda cool with the hair algae on the long thing leaves but I know you don't want it.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Raymond, I have used some homemade fertilizer capsules from my friend but a few months ago took most of them out. I do use 2 ADA products, iron bottom and bacter balls.

You're right, this didn't happen over night. I watched it slowly happen over the course of a few months and didn't do anything about it for some reason.

I need to read more about the API AlgaeFix still. Thanks for the advice, if I do use it, I can definitely siphon the dead stuff off the plants.

I do have frog bit now like I mentioned in an above post. I got some nice stuff from ebay that now covers almost half the tank. After having frogbit in the tank for almost a year, and then not having any frogbit in the tank for a few months, I have to say the frogbit really completes the look of the tank, encompassing the top portion of the tank in green, which is really nice. It also shadows the tank and creates a nice mood, like a forest canopy with light peaking through. So the frogbit is here to stay.

The light does have a clear plastic shield between the LED's. You're suggesting I put something in there to block some of the light coming through right? I'd prefer to not have to do that, hopefully the frogbit will do the job of creating shade, right?

Lastly, are you suggesting that by pumping up the "good" plants with light and ferts, the algae will go away? Why is this, if that's what you mean?




Raymond S. said:


> I didn't see anything about ferts in here so looks like you have high teck level lights without any of the other things that go/w it. This took a long time to get like this.
> It won't go away over night. If you research the Algaefix and think you want to use
> it then do that. As it breaks loose from the plants try to siphon some of the dead stuff off of the plants when you change water.
> Do you have the frog bit yet ? Does that light fixture have a plastic "shield" between the bulbs and the tank, like that slides into the bottom of the fixture ?
> ...


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

If the frog bit works to cut the light(which I have used it for that so I know it will)
then you don't need the screen in the light. But in addition to that assistance from it you will also get more growing plants that way. And those kind take ferts directly from the water thereby helping to keep it from the algae. But now you need to know a
better idea of the overall picture of what is going on. But rather than my being long winded, I'll give you a link that will explain it much better than I could.
See what you think of what he says because ferts are covered and you only need
a light amount of them once the light is cut by the frog bit.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=107303#2


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Can't wait to check out that link, thanks Raymond. I already have a better understanding of how plant matter grows in a tank thanks to your quick explanation.

Btw, here is a picture of today's Frogbit coverage. I've only had this much frogbit for 2-3 days now.





Raymond S. said:


> If the frog bit works to cut the light(which I have used it for that so I know it will)
> then you don't need the screen in the light. But in addition to that assistance from it you will also get more growing plants that way. And those kind take ferts directly from the water thereby helping to keep it from the algae. But now you need to know a
> better idea of the overall picture of what is going on. But rather than my being long winded, I'll give you a link that will explain it much better than I could.
> See what you think of what he says because ferts are covered and you only need
> ...


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Another angle


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Those plants are not at all mature and you may just throw away the ones which get that way because of how far down the roots hang when they mature. That's what I did to keep them from hanging up on bottom plants so they could circulate around the tank. Not at all necessary of course. Obviously can't tell from a picture but are they stationary or do they move about the tank any ? I design my filter outlets to create current in a circular direction and looking at your lily pipe, you placed it likewise.
Pros and cons...when the roots get longer they will hang up but the larger plants can be fewer/w some more space between to let a bit more light in while having more overall coverage...6 of one half a dozen of the other type thing.
BTW that's a lot for your money on the bits. With my ten g tanks, I ordered a 1/4 cup of Giant duckweed and ended up throwing away over half of what I got for not
needing anything like full coverage in my tank that I put it in.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Hi Raymond,

not a lot to report back so far. I have the light on for 5 hours or less per day. The algae seems to be the same. I'll be patient and give the algae more time to dissipate. 

The frogbit are pretty stationary. Like you said, the cycle of the water keeps them in that corner.

I've read a bit more on API algaefix. Some ppl have said it made their fish sick. I'm thinking about ripping out all the algae covered plants and treating them with algaefix in a bucket, and then replanting them. 

What do you think?

Btw, I hate duckweed. It's too small, it gets everywhere.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Totally agree, but I have giant duckweed which is just under the size of four leaf clover leaves so dozens of plants multiplying instead of hundreds. If you want to be rid of any/all you can easilly get all of it without fighting to do it.
The bucket thing might shock them a bit but not worse than they already are.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

So it's been a few months I think. I ended up removing the plants that were covered in algae and clipping off the leaves that were infected.

A small amount still remains.

I've looked up hair algae online, what I've got doesn't look exactly like the pictures I've seen.

From the pictures in the OP, does anyone know the exact kind of algae I have?


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## urbach (Apr 16, 2009)

Yours look like green bread algae(GBA) . Try Google it. If confirm, u need to totally remove it from your tank or it will grow again.


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## Little Soprano (Mar 13, 2014)

If you want an invert safe method to keep algae away, barley works wonders.... I have two bales of it in my pond, and now small bits in media bags in both of my tanks (I just hid them behind rocks). When Barley breaks down it releases very scarse amounts of hydrogen peroxide, which is enough to keep hair algae from growing (along with a variety of others). It won't kill off the algae if you have lots of it, but once you clean off the undesirable stuff, it won't come back. I just replace the barley every 3-4 months, and it's cheap as can be. I have snails that climb on top of the stuff, it's natural and it works.


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## acf (Mar 17, 2013)

Thanks guys. I removed most of the affected plants and have trimmed the rest off the remaining plants but obviously I haven't removed all of it - that's impossible. If it starts growing back I might try that barley technique. 

One friend recommended I kill it at the source. He believes nitrates are too high in my tank so I am doing more frequent big water changes to starve the algae, rather than bandaid the problem.


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## Little Soprano (Mar 13, 2014)

acf said:


> Thanks guys. I removed most of the affected plants and have trimmed the rest off the remaining plants but obviously I haven't removed all of it - that's impossible. If it starts growing back I might try that barley technique.
> 
> One friend recommended I kill it at the source. He believes nitrates are too high in my tank so I am doing more frequent big water changes to starve the algae, rather than bandaid the problem.


I highly recommend the barley... Once you clean out all the algae, you put a few strands in a pantyhose somewhere in the tank, and once it starts to decompose (takes about 1 week or so), it releases trace amounts of Hydrogen Peroxide, and will keep algae from developing. It's how I keep my pond clear.


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