# Water circulation for a 55 gallon



## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Hey! I have been gone for some time, I haven't posted for at least a week, b/c I went on a trip to Wash D.C. and it was really fun, but now it is back to the aquariums!

My concern was water circulation, I know my tank doesn't have enough, due to the modification of my emperor 400 and how it cuts back on circulation. What type of powerhead would you reccomend for circulation in my 55 gallon? What type has everyone tried and had success with? I was thinking a Rio 50 or 100 or something like that... How many GPH would you reccomend just to improve circulation in a 55 gallon? Imagine my tank with the filter on the left (the way you are looking at it) and a powerhead attached to the right wall; do you think that would work? Thanks for any replies!

-Tim


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I would suggest getting a powerhead that you can attach a DIY spray bar on. That way you could really get some decent overall water movement.


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## STAT 007 (Feb 26, 2003)

I recommend undoing the Emperor modification and just readjusting the CO2 bubble rate to compensate. You'd be surprised how little you have to up it to make up for the CO2 loss. I did this and my water circulation is MUCH better. I mean, HOB filters are designed to be able to output the water across the top of the water. If they can't do this, they're just sucking up the water from the back of the tank and outputting it right down the same column (doing nothing).


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## IceWish (Mar 29, 2003)

I always thought that the Co2 loss from surface agitation was too much to make up for......and i mean that in a none challenging but enlightening me sort of way..


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Well, I have seen the amount of CO2 that is lost, and the main reason the modification fails to circulate water is that like you said, sucks up the water it puts out. But, if I get water circulating, then some water from the other side will get filtered as well, and I also read that water circulation is much more important in a planted tank than filtering is, which makes sense if you think about it.

Rex, do you have any suggestions on which type of DIY spray bar I use? When you say that, is that something that spreads out the water flow to a larger surface area from the small output of a powerhead? I am not the equipment genius when it comes to fish tanks, though this is something I should probably know :roll:. Thanks for the help!

-Tim


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## digger (Feb 18, 2003)

Just find a tube that will fit snugly over the output of of the powerhead. Plug the other end and drill several holes along the length.


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Along the lenght of what though?

-Tim


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## digger (Feb 18, 2003)

Along the lenght of the tube, along one side of the tube, drill a bunch of holes about 1" apart.


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Tim,
I think Digger is telling you to manufacture your own spraybar to attach to the powerhead.


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## digger (Feb 18, 2003)

Rex said: 


> I would suggest getting a powerhead that you can attach a DIY spray bar on. That way you could really get some decent overall water movement.


Right, I'm telling you how to get it done the DIY way.


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

OK, I get it, how thick should the tube be? Is something like straw length OK, and what are some methods of attaching the powerhead to the spray bar? Thanks for all your help!

-Tim


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Tim,
If you are going to make your own spraybar, use PVC or some other rigid plastic. You may be able to attach your spraybar to the side of your aquarium with suction cups (take a look at Eheim's spraybar). Attach the spraybar to your powerhead with flexible tubing. 
You might want to check out Eheim's spraybar. The whole thing, spraybar and suction cups, might cost you about $20. It may be _easier_ (not cheaper) to do it that way. Then all you have to do is match the diameter of the spraybar to the output diameter of the powerhead.

Mike


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Tim
I checked it out on Big Al's and if I am right about the outtake, it should cost about $10. Double check it. Send me a PM and I'll let you know what you need to order if interested.

Mike


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Momotaro, thanks for your helpfulness! However, I think I have run into some problems....

Do you mean an outlet tube or an outlet pipe filter? I really don't know what I am looking for, this seems like it might be easier to just build a DIY one, but I couldn't find that much information on it! I like the idea of being able to conceal the powerhead, as I already have enough equipment (I am working on an external CO2 reactor, but it just isn't working out), and don't want this random cube sticking out of nowhere in my tank! Any pointers to already assembled spray bars or ideas for what tubing to make spray bars out of would be helpful! Thanks!

-Tim


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Tim
The spraybar is a long hard plastic tube with several holes drilled into it and a cap on one end. You would plug it into a flexible tube of the same diameter (1/2" or 5/8"). You plug that assembly into your powerhead output and your in buisness. I still think it will be easier to purchase than manufacture. If you want I'll post a photo of what I'm writing about for you tomorrow. Hang in there Tim.

Mike


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Here's a photo Tim.


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Where did you get that!?!? That is what I am looking for, I just wasn't sure what it is called "precisly" by bigals! Have any ideas?

-Tim


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Tim,
It is an Eheim spraybar. I believe Big Al's has it listed as an "OUTLET PIPE-FILTER" under _Parts- Power Filter_. Big Al's has a diagram, not a picture. It is not the OUTLET-TUBE. You will need to find the diameter of the outlet of your powerhead and then match it up with the proper diameter spraybar (Outlet-Pipe). It may take a bit to find which bar will fit your powerhead, but it is still easier and it may even be cheaper to buy one. If you tell me the size of the powerhead outlet I may be able to help you find the right spraybar. Now, when you order the spraybar (if you order the spraybar) you will order the spraybar itself, the end caps for the spraybar, and the suction cups to hold it in place if you want.

Mike


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Hey Tim,
Here is another, cheaper option.


http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_Display.cfm?siteid=6&pCatId=3653


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## SNPiccolo5 (Oct 6, 2002)

Hmmm, the fluval one looks good, but the eheim has the difference in sizes... It really helps that big als has the sizes of the different sized spraybars :roll: :roll: . I am thinking now to just make my own, how does this plan sound? 

I have a CO2 reactor powered by a powerhead that I could use. So, the water goes into the gravel vac, then out it. Imagine a gravel vac, then think of the attachment it as at one end in order to use the smaller tube, it is like an adapter, I think mine is green. I attach one of those to the outlet of my reactor, so now the gravel vac is symetrical if you are looking at it horizontaly, and the line of symetry is verticle. I then attach the flexible tubing to the outlet of the reactor and this will make a shape like a "C" coming out of the reactor. I then have mini suction cups I can attach to the top of this "C" and I can drill holes in this tubing to make the spraybar. The advantage here is that I have everything to do it! Now I just need to fine something to plug the end...

The only possible problem I see is that the actual spraybar part is flexible, while someone said it should be rigid, is this OK? Also, any ideas on what to use to plug the one end? This is the only place I am stuck...

Thanks for all the help!

-Tim


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

Hard to picture, but sounds good. 
I mentioned rigid plastic for the spraybar because I felt it would be easier to drill into when you make the holes. How about a small piece of cork to plug the end of your spraybar. you can cut it to any shape you need.


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