# Official sump pimp club.



## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Some of the other filters have a pimp club, cameras have pimp clubs, why not a sump pimp club? I say we bring sump related talk to this thread to help others out with questions they have regarding set-up or issues with existing sumps. Any takers?

Sump pimp club 
#1 - SlammedDC2
#2 - GeToChKn
#3 - zachary908
#4 - jedimasterben
#5 - GraphicGr8s
#6 - Hedobob
#7 - HD Blazingwolf
#8 - NWA-Planted
#9 - NatCh
#10 - mgamer20o0
#11 - magnum
#12 - Wicket_lfe
#13 - Acsuth
#14 - nvladik
#15 - Chrome
#16 - WhiskeyD
#17 - cheeman
#18 - Calmia22
#19 - JoeGREEEN 
#20 - audioaficionado
#21 - FISTER
#22 - BreakingBread
#23 - kseanm247
#24 - Land_lubber
#25 - JKS
#26 - crazymittens
#27 - Legot


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## Hedobob (Dec 28, 2011)

I would join because in a month i would be setting up my 80 Gallon with a sump. I had a sump setup previously on a salt setup.Ill be running CO2 with plants Discus and Angel fish.

Bob


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Nice, I have a sump on my 125g co2 planted angel tank (would love some discus), I also have a sump on my 55g turtle tank.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Sump Pimp #2

~25gal sump on my 125gal turtle tank. Wet/dry style filter, dual drains,dual returns, Magdrive 1800 pump. Drilled in the bottom for all plumbing and modified by me to allow the water to be filled 4/5 of the way.


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## zachary908 (Feb 12, 2011)

I've got a sump on the 75g in my sig.


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## Little Bob (Jan 14, 2012)

So, who's gonna tell me what a sump does, how it's set-up and do I need one with a 30g tank?


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## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

Little Bob said:


> So, who's gonna tell me what a sump does, how it's set-up and do I need one with a 30g tank?


http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html

Some things will be different for freshwater applications, but you can get the gist of it from the link. There's a 3-part detailed guide on them at the bottom as well.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Little Bob said:


> So, who's gonna tell me what a sump does, how it's set-up and do I need one with a 30g tank?


Honestly IMO unless it's salt water you don't need one, but they are nice as you have 
a larger water volume
cheaper (if DIY) to build that a canister
and I think it is easier to clean as well.
You can hide all of your equipment
customizable

The link below is great and will answer what it does and how it's setup.
But since it is custom you can build it to your prefference, and how it will best suite you. 
I want this thread to be for people to ask questions regarding how this works, or how to set this up? or whatever. 
By all means ask any questions you have.
I'll get some recent pics of my sump tomorrow and post them up.



freph said:


> http://www.melevsreef.com/what_sump.html
> 
> Some things will be different for freshwater applications, but you can get the gist of it from the link. There's a 3-part detailed guide on them at the bottom as well.


That is an awesome link.


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

Sumpin' FTW.

I'll take the #3 spot (er, possibly # 4 dependent upon zachary908)


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Count me in. 5 gallon display with a 55 sump.


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

Kidding.


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## Hedobob (Dec 28, 2011)

#6 Hedobob


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

# 7 yay lol


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

I should have been on the first listing slammed! now I have to take #8... Gosh

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

Is there room for those who would have a sump if they could but currently can't? If not I can wait. :smile:


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

NWA-Planted said:


> I should have been on the first listing slammed! now I have to take #8... Gosh
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


HEY!! me too cause its not like i haven't broadcasted my buying of one and installation

but look at it this way.. we are in single digits


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NWA-Planted said:


> I should have been on the first listing slammed! now I have to take #8... Gosh
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


Honestly man this thread was started kind of spur of the moment in response to another thread, but something I really had thought about for a few days. Don't worry man, your number two in my heart...shh don't tell my wife lol



NatCh said:


> Is there room for those who would have a sump if they could but currently can't? If not I can wait. :smile:


By all means. Whatcha planning to build/sump? Building your own or buying one? 


HD Blazingwolf said:


> HEY!! me too cause its not like i haven't broadcasted my buying of one and installation
> 
> but look at it this way.. we are in single digits


 lol I've been in your thread as well. single digits FTW


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Lol!! Ftw


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> By all means. Whatcha planning to build/sump? Building your own or buying one?


Prowly build, most likely a 15~20 sump on a 70 tall, if I have my way and don't change my mind in the meantime.

But not soon, I'm afraid.  I have to sell the wife on a larger tank so there will be space in the stand for the sump. I fear we haven't space for more than one tank in the house especially with an 18 month old toddling about. :smile:

She's not really that resistent, but current circumstances .... :shrug:


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

NatCh said:


> Prowly build, most likely a 15~20 sump on a 70 tall, if I have my way and don't change my mind in the meantime.
> 
> But not soon, I'm afraid.  I have to sell the wife on a larger tank so there will be space in the stand for the sump. I fear we haven't space for more than one tank in the house especially with an 18 month old toddling about. :smile:
> 
> She's not really that resistent, but current circumstances .... :shrug:


For our 5th anniversary my wife and I went and picked out a 220g. Now we will have a true family tank.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Craigthor said:


> For our 5th anniversary my wife and I went and picked out a 220g. Now we will have a true family tank.
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


 
SHEESH. lucky ****** i can't get my wife to agree to anything larger than a 29g 
i want a 75
"it'll take up too much room" her
"yeah i know but its soo cool" my argument LOL its better than that but she's right my house does have space requirements... its good sized but odly made


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NatCh said:


> Prowly build, most likely a 15~20 sump on a 70 tall, if I have my way and don't change my mind in the meantime.
> 
> But not soon, I'm afraid.  I have to sell the wife on a larger tank so there will be space in the stand for the sump. I fear we haven't space for more than one tank in the house especially with an 18 month old toddling about. :smile:
> 
> She's not really that resistent, but current circumstances .... :shrug:


Sometimes it's easier to ask forgivness then permission.



Craigthor said:


> For our 5th anniversary my wife and I went and picked out a 220g. Now we will have a true family tank.
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


I would love a 220g.


HD Blazingwolf said:


> SHEESH. lucky ****** i can't get my wife to agree to anything larger than a 29g
> i want a 75
> "it'll take up too much room" her
> "yeah i know but its soo cool" my argument LOL its better than that but she's right my house does have space requirements... its good sized but odly made


 Shoot my 125g has a 29g sump. I say if she ever goes out of town without you, you should set up your 75 and when she gets home you (wearing a helmet maybe?) "surprise"

My wife isn't bad, she doesn't want anything to do with the tank besides looking at. She doesn't even take care of the 15g in her classroom, the students do...but that's half the reason it's there. She knows I love animals and would have a zoo if we had the space.
Were actually supposed to be getting a cat next week...an ocelot hybrid. That should be cool. I guess I'm just lucky.


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Sometimes it's easier to ask forgivness then permission.


True, but I don't have time or funds just now, regardless, only hopes and dreams ... and plans.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I hear you. I save up "she money" (money she don't know about) for all my purchases. She doesn't care how much I spend so long as none of the bills are short and everything else is taken care of.


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

Makes sense, but for what I have in mind we're talking quite a chunka change, and then there's the custom stand I have in mind to build ... plus, of course, the tools I'll need for that job ....


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

a helmet LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that would be a big surprise

i love animals probably as much as u then. i'd have a zoo.. she doesnt hate the tank. just doesn't wanna do anything else but see it... there techincally is room for a 75. she just sees that room as 2 year old play space  eventually they wont need play space and will need tvs and games, and bicycles, and and... u get the idea. my 5 year old no longer needs play space


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> a helmet LOL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that would be a big surprise
> 
> i love animals probably as much as u then. i'd have a zoo.. she doesnt hate the tank. just doesn't wanna do anything else but see it... there techincally is room for a 75. she just sees that room as 2 year old play space  eventually they wont need play space and will need tvs and games, and bicycles, and and... u get the idea. my 5 year old no longer needs play space


You never know man, sometimes wives can get violent. I prefer a football helmet as it will also protect your face for when she goes psycho and tries punching you in the nose lol.

Eh that just means you need to go ahead and put the 75 in and call it done. Kids don't have a play space, the whole house is there for them to leave their toys laying around and you to step on them.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> You never know man, sometimes wives can get violent. I prefer a football helmet as it will also protect your face for when she goes psycho and tries punching you in the nose lol.
> 
> Eh that just means you need to go ahead and put the 75 in and call it done. Kids don't have a play space, the whole house is there for them to leave their toys laying around and you to step on them.


the truest statement ever made lies here ^


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

If you've got kids it is. When we moved to the house were in now it has a den type room. We said that was gonna be the play room. Yeah that lasted 9 seconds. Now it has a 55g paludarium and houses her 15g when schools out. 

So to keep on subject, what kind of return does everyone use?
I have 1" pvc coming up next to the overflow (far right of tank) then 90 to run the length of the tank. It has 2 T's and a 90 at the end. They used to have a 90 on the three outlets (about 2ft apart). But that seemed to cause to much of a current, so I capped the first and third outlet and put a cross in the middle. The bottom is capped and the sides have 45 pointing slghtly down. I like that much more as it seems to take care of any dead spots and better distribution of co2. I will snap some updated pics of the sump and return tomorrow.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

I am in.

one return pipe, two outflows right below the water surface.










and old picture, no scaping....
(now it is even worst, don't have too much time to fix the tank, bad)


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

100% vinyl tubing as of now for space, ease of use, and time requirements. Pvc hardline is in the works for some of the plumbing


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> 100% vinyl tubing as of now for space, ease of use, and time requirements. Pvc hardline is in the works for some of the plumbing


Also remember you can get flex PVC which may be a bit easier to work with. 

When I do my plumbing I will be using alot of flex PVC, sched 80 fittings and schd 80 hard line as I like the nice grey color.

Craig


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Craigthor said:


> Also remember you can get flex PVC which may be a bit easier to work with.
> 
> When I do my plumbing I will be using alot of flex PVC, sched 80 fittings and schd 80 hard line as I like the nice grey color.
> 
> Craig


i've read its not that flexible before. how is it in relation to vinyl tubing?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

All of my piping is 1" pvc, it is sealed with purple primer and clear cement. I have found that when you pre assemble everything it is best to use a sharpie and on every joint put a line on the end of the pipe rolling up onto the T, 90, coupling, etc. If you've done this it will make it easier when it's time to make it permanent. 

Here is my CPR CS-102 1200gph overflow with two 1" bulk heads draining into 1" pvc which feeds the sump. This also has a diy screen over the slots as my bloodfins liked to ride the rapids in the overflow.









Here's my 29g sump filtering my 125g. First chamber has loofas for course filtration with filter floss on top for fine filtration. That chamber overflows into the bio balls, from there is flows under to the ceramic media. You can also see the return line above and behind the sump with the gate valve to regulate flow.









Here is where my 800w titanium heater, and 1350gph return pump that feeds into the external griggs reactor (no media atm). Also in this area is the sponge for my ac110 (in storage) thermometer and bio wheels from an old tank used to cycle this one.









Here is my reactor, 10lb tank and ferts.









Here is my 3/4" cross (idk why I didn't get a T?) capped on bottom with 1" 45 elbows. Creates good flow and spreads the co2 around nicely









Here is the 1" diy pvc overflow that has proven to be awesome. It has a sponge I found and spread open to fit the opening.
It was originally used in the 125g but was far outpaced by the 1350. Well it works great on here, and has self primed every time I turn the pump off for cleaning.









more of the overflow, there is a check valve on the end of that hose. has not built one bubble yet in 3 months.









Now here is the 20g sump filtering for my 55g turtle tank. Now the baffle washed out the other day. I guess I didn't goop enough silicone on there, kinda wish I had just gone with glass to begin with but it's a little late for all that. I have something in mind to improvise in the tank but having a hard time locating. Anyway the sump has bio balls, jager heater and marine land 350gph return pump. This return has a ball valve instead as I couldn't find a slip on (to cement in place) gate valve. Regulating flow has proved to be difficult but it's getting close.









heres the return pipe coming in 3/4 down the tank









the return









any questions please ask.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

TWO questions actually
c02 injection. how much do you waste? ever since my sump i've had difficulties dropping below 6.6 ph. i used to drop from 7.6 to 6.2--6.0 range.. sump is seal, lines are sealed. only exit for gas is through the silencing tube or dissolving in gas.. my reactor doesn't seem to be able to handle full dissolution anymore
running about 300gph through it and maybe 3-4 bps ou of the tubing i get a few bubbles comming out of the outflow

next how does pvc compare to flex tubing for noise and flow handling?

EDIT: i knew there would be c02 loss. the added benefits of additional o2 outweigh the loss. i just can't get more to go in now


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> TWO questions actually
> c02 injection. how much do you waste? ever since my sump i've had difficulties dropping below 6.6 ph. i used to drop from 7.6 to 6.2--6.0 range.. sump is seal, lines are sealed. only exit for gas is through the silencing tube or dissolving in gas.. my reactor doesn't seem to be able to handle full dissolution anymore
> running about 300gph through it and maybe 3-4 bps ou of the tubing i get a few bubbles comming out of the outflow
> 
> ...


 Honestly I don't know how much is lost. This is the first tank I have done co2 on. 
Now as for the reactor, mine does not disolve 100% or anywhere close. My tank is constantly covered in micro bubbles and I hate it. I think I am going to cut it open sometime this week and fill it with media and see if that helps. If not I will feed it to a powerhead in the sump and see how that goes.

I have no experience with flex tubing. Everything was set up with pvc and that's how it's stayed. Now as far as noise goes...there really isn't any. I can hear the pump from the 55g if I listen for it.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Honestly man this thread was started kind of spur of the moment in response to another thread, but something I really had thought about for a few days. Don't worry man, your number two in my heart...shh don't tell my wife lol


 

ok ok, your secret is safe with me haha


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

hmm. i may have to go pvc. but the tubing sound isn't bad the way i have it setup. there is a nice trickle sound like a slow fountain over rocks

I have a erge style reactor that used to dissolve everything. i don't get micro bubbles. i get decent sized ones that come out and don't ever dissolve or get used. its frustrating. i've been told that needle wheels work great for our applications.. i may try to modify my reactor first

i will tell u i got MAD micro bubble when i ran it through my pump into my reactor. it was like the reactor wasn't even a stopping point.. ima cut about an inch off my c02 feed line and turn the outflow hose and see if that helps. i may just have too much water flow through for the size reactor i have


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I have heard that needle wheels are best for larger tanks with sumps but have no idea what they are. I probably need to run over to google and take a look.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

I did a sponge style one powered with a power head, no visible bubbles out the end good diffusion, also use the power head impeller to pre-chop the bubbles.










Has been moved to better hide it, far left of tank..










Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

taam rio plus powerheads should come withone. however my1700 plus did not. the replacement part however is a needlewheel


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NWA-Planted said:


> I did a sponge style one powered with a power head, no visible bubbles out the end good diffusion, also use the power head impeller to pre-chop the bubbles.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Ray Charles must have taken those pics because I can't see a thing


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## Fishies_in_Philly (Dec 8, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> I hear you. I save up "she money" (money she don't know about) for all my purchases. She doesn't care how much I spend so long as none of the bills are short and everything else is taken care of.


i call that submarine money, it dives into my pocket after a side job and she can't see it  but i am lucky, like your wife, as long as the bills are paid, she doesn't care how much i spend on the tanks

seriously considering building a sump for my 125


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Now I can see the pics NWA, I see what your saying. I think I'm going to do some work to mine today, I am not happy with it currently. That and I have used almost 10lbs in a month.



Fishies_in_Philly said:


> i call that submarine money, it dives into my pocket after a side job and she can't see it  but i am lucky, like your wife, as long as the bills are paid, she doesn't care how much i spend on the tanks
> 
> seriously considering building a sump for my 125


You should, it's all the new craze


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Now I can see the pics NWA, I see what your saying. I think I'm going to do some work to mine today, I am not happy with it currently. That and I have used almost 10lbs in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> You should, it's all the new craze


i've also modified my system more to save on c02. pump was too powerful for reactor so i now have a second pump that runs my reactor from my sump reservoir to reactor back to sump. it has worked quite nicely. got to dial my c02 back down, and any bubbles that come out are sucked up by the pump feeding the tank which leaves a very small unnoticeable mist in the tank.. so i get like the best of needlewheel and almost 100% dissolution


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I'm trying not to have to buy another pump just to run this reactor. I might get rid of the sump in my 55g, if I do that I could use that pump, just not sure.
It sucks because after 1 month of co2 I'm almost out.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Now I can see the pics NWA, I see what your saying. I think I'm going to do some work to mine today, I am not happy with it currently. That and I have used almost 10lbs in a month.
> 
> 
> 
> You should, it's all the new craze


 
Yea... my 5 pound tank lasts me about 3 -4 weeks with this setup 

The ceramic diffusor is nice in this case cause it uses such loooowww pressure and feeding the already small bubbles into the diffusor pretty much makes a mist that actually goes down into the tube piece. Still need to do a little tweaking occasionally I can see a bubble burp up from the end, but talking maybe once every few hours.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I think I want to cut my reactor open and stuff it full of scrubbies (loofahs) and see if that helps. I don't see it hurting it in anyway. If that doesn't work I think I'll just run a powerhead in the sump and diffuse it that way with the powerhead blowing directly to the return pump. IDK I just don't want to have to refill every month.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

well i cut my consumption in half.. was worth the price. i used a 200 gph pump at 0 head. i have like 1 foot of head through that system.. it works great cut c02 use in half

scrubbies didn't do y any justice. i tried them first.. i even stuck some bio bale in there to try that

i use a 5 lb tank and at the rate im going i dont expect to last more than 2 months on the 29


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

wow, I guess I wont even bother then. Maybe I'll look at a cheap pump then.


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## phorty (Aug 2, 2010)

My 55 gallon is currently set up in my office which is right above my basement utility sink. For water changes, I have a hose that goes through the floor and I syphon right into the sink. For filling the tank, I just hook the hose to the sink faucet, do my best to regular tempurature and put in some prime.

I'm thinking of using a sump in the basement basically as a way to increase water volume and to make water changes easier for my overstocked show tank. I don't really care about extra filtration at this point as I have 2 cannisters. I'd use either a water storage drum or even a plastic rubbermade bin. When doing a water change, I figured I could just drain the drum into my house's sump pump, then refill the drum and boom, I'm done. No mess in the office, all cleanup is in the basement utility area. Does this make sense? Will having a sump a floor below the tank be a problem?


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

I saw them do a "downstairs" sump on a really huge tank on the show Tanked, so I'm guessing that there isn't an inherent problem with it.

I think the drawback would be that you'd need a heftier (and more expensive) pump to get the water _back_ upstairs. The flip-side of that is with that sort of drop, the potential flow rate on your drain line would be huge! :smile:


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

NatCh said:


> I saw them do a "downstairs" sump on a really huge tank on the show "Tanked", so I'm guessing that there isn't an inherent problem with it.
> 
> I think the drawback would be that you'd need a heftier (and more expensive) pump to get the water _back_ upstairs. The flip-side of that is with that sort of drop, the potential flow rate on your drain line would be huge! :smile:


not to mention the pump necessary for that would put a stupid amount of heat into the water.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

It's a great idea but I don't think will be worth it in this situation. I'd probably give it a try on a bigger tank or reef tank. I think the cost of the pump and drain/lift issues would be bad enough not counting the possible heat problem.


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## mgamer20o0 (Mar 8, 2007)

i have 21 tanks on a single sump which is larger then most peoples tanks so i guess you can add me to the list.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

mgamer20o0 said:


> i have 21 tanks on a single sump which is larger then most peoples tanks so i guess you can add me to the list.


Aren't you afraid of a "mishap" and wiping all 21 tanks? I've seen it happen even with proper techniques.


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## phorty (Aug 2, 2010)

SlammedDC2 said:


> It's a great idea but I don't think will be worth it in this situation. I'd probably give it a try on a bigger tank or reef tank. I think the cost of the pump and drain/lift issues would be bad enough not counting the possible heat problem.


Thanks for the replies guys.

I've been playing around with a few ideas to make this set-up as clean and maintenance free as possible. I have had this tank for 3 years but it isn't ideal and I have less free time with a young daughter and frequent travel for my job.

It is a huge pain in the butt running back and forth up and down the stairs trying to get the water temp sort of close to where it needs to be. I think I'll still employ the drum as a holding place for water for the water changes when I upgrade my 55 to the 75 I have ready to go. What type of pump would I use to get the water from the drum in the basement to fill the tank? Would the pump go in the drum or up by the tank? I apologize for the dumb questions...


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

mgamer20o0 said:


> i have 21 tanks on a single sump which is larger then most peoples tanks so i guess you can add me to the list.


 Wow, what size sump do you have? how many gallons of water are in those 21 tanks? 


phorty said:


> Thanks for the replies guys.
> 
> I've been playing around with a few ideas to make this set-up as clean and maintenance free as possible. I have had this tank for 3 years but it isn't ideal and I have less free time with a young daughter and frequent travel for my job.
> 
> It is a huge pain in the butt running back and forth up and down the stairs trying to get the water temp sort of close to where it needs to be. I think I'll still employ the drum as a holding place for water for the water changes when I upgrade my 55 to the 75 I have ready to go. What type of pump would I use to get the water from the drum in the basement to fill the tank? Would the pump go in the drum or up by the tank? I apologize for the dumb questions...


 As far as pumping upstairs to fill the tank. I'd go to harbor freight and buy a submerisable pump strong enough to get it up. You don't have to worry about any heat issues as it won't be running long enough to cause any problems.


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## phorty (Aug 2, 2010)

SlammedDC2 said:


> As far as pumping upstairs to fill the tank. I'd go to harbor freight and buy a submerisable pump strong enough to get it up. You don't have to worry about any heat issues as it won't be running long enough to cause any problems.


Okay, good idea. I need to go there anyway this weekend. Would the pump then go in the water source and "push" the water up or does it go on the tank end and "pull" the water up? I prefer the latter as that way I don't have to run downstairs to shut it off and it would generally give me more control.


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## Nocturnal (Jan 25, 2012)

Once I have assembled all my parts and my tank is up I will be part of this crew. Sump is already done. 29 gallon with two sets of baffles. Section for bio-material, section for the pump and first section for mechanical filtration.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

phorty said:


> Okay, good idea. I need to go there anyway this weekend. Would the pump then go in the water source and "push" the water up or does it go on the tank end and "pull" the water up? I prefer the latter as that way I don't have to run downstairs to shut it off and it would generally give me more control.


You can try to find one that will pull vs push. The one I got from there is submersable and it sits in my sump to push water back into the tank. 



Nocturnal said:


> Once I have assembled all my parts and my tank is up I will be part of this crew. Sump is already done. 29 gallon with two sets of baffles. Section for bio-material, section for the pump and first section for mechanical filtration.


Very nice, got any pics? What size tank is it going on?


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## Nocturnal (Jan 25, 2012)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Very nice, got any pics? What size tank is it going on?


Just took a quick crappy one. You can kind of see the divisions in it. flow from left to right. Can't wait to get it all running. I just waiting on my regulator set-up from Maknwar and few odds and ends. It's going on a rimless 57 gallon. Was originally a reef set-up but I'm converting to fresh. Should be fun!


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> You can try to find one that will pull vs push. The one I got from there is submersible and it sits in my sump to push water back into the tank.


Wouldn't you need some type of check valve at the end of the pipe downstairs? Like a foot valve in a well? Otherwise if it shut off you'd lose the prime.

Remember, it's always easier to push fluid than to pull it.


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## Diesel3443 (Sep 16, 2011)

I have a sump 

I need a tank that can hold water though


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

GraphicGr8s said:


> Wouldn't you need some type of check valve at the end of the pipe downstairs? Like a foot valve in a well? Otherwise if it shut off you'd lose the prime.
> 
> Remember, it's always easier to push fluid than to pull it.


That's a good point, I would think so unless you have a faithfull employee to make sure no mess is made.



Diesel3443 said:


> I have a sump
> 
> I need a tank that can hold water though


Is that why there's been no update?


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

slammed. how goes your quest for c02 injection solutions?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> slammed. how goes your quest for c02 injection solutions?


 um...haven't gotten onto that quest yet. Kids have kept me to busy to do anything. I might try bypassing the reactor this week and just use a powerhead and see how that works.


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## lippydippy (Jan 10, 2008)

I have 3 dumps, one has 5 - 75 gallons another has 2 - 75 and theast is on a 100 gallon rubermaid tub


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## Diesel3443 (Sep 16, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Is that why there's been no update?


That would be it, lol

Sent from my DROIDX


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> um...haven't gotten onto that quest yet. Kids have kept me to busy to do anything. I might try bypassing the reactor this week and just use a powerhead and see how that works.


I will admit I have not been faithfully following this thread, but what CO2 issue are you having? Talking about the gas off, losing your CO2?

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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NWA-Planted said:


> I will admit I have not been faithfully following this thread, but what CO2 issue are you having? Talking about the gas off, losing your CO2?
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


 I'm sure that's part of it, but to be honest my biggest problem is the amount of bubbles in the tank that are not being diffused. It's a little unsightly looking into the tank seeing the abundance of micro bubbles.

I've just been so busy with work and the kids that I have barely had time to feed the fish let alone change anything else around.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Okay so I found a 106gph pump I forgot about. I re did my plumbing just now with a new tank. So far there are zero bubbles in the tank. Now let's see how the drop checker responds.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

i recently posted in ur search for pump section.. good luck !


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> i recently posted in ur search for pump section.. good luck !


 Thanks man, I'm going to look into running a T with a ball valve. Just a little foggy on how exactly to set it all up. I'm thinking put the t from the pump to the return and reactor with a ball valve on the reactor side. Then just have the reactor dump back into the sump?

Yeah so that little 106gph was able to fill the reactor but only able to bring the water back out to within an inch of the top of the sump. If it only had a little more gravity would have taken over.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

Go to harbor freight and get a little bigger one for like 20 bucks 

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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NWA-Planted said:


> Go to harbor freight and get a little bigger one for like 20 bucks
> 
> Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


 That was my first thought, I did that this morning and they either had to big or to small. At least at my store. I'm going to look into the T and ball valve option


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

marine depot if u buy another pump.. rio's are cheap and reliable


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## cheeman (Jan 26, 2011)

Count me in too!!! As far a co2 gas off I have a 1/2 pvc in my overflow pulling a direct siphon going right into the sump. works great ! bio balls and anything as far as tricking or wet dry will gas off co2 as well. I cut my co2 from 1 #5 every 3 weeks to one every other month on a 75g with a 20L sump. I use a 3" pvc reactor 3' long with no bubbles in the display tank.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

cheeman said:


> Count me in too!!! As far a co2 gas off I have a 1/2 pvc in my overflow pulling a direct siphon going right into the sump. works great ! bio balls and anything as far as tricking or wet dry will gas off co2 as well. I cut my co2 from 1 #5 every 3 weeks to one every other month on a 75g with a 20L sump. I use a 3" pvc reactor 3' long with no bubbles in the display tank.


ur key is ur full siphon. most of use are not running full siphon and that tube burns a lot of c02 
it also very much oxygenates the water


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> ur key is ur full siphon. most of use are not running full siphon and that tube burns a lot of c02
> it also very much oxygenates the water


yea I was trying to get a fill siphon balanced on mine.... Started just making me mad lol.

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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> ur key is ur full siphon. most of use are not running full siphon and that tube burns a lot of c02
> it also very much oxygenates the water


Don't the plants do that too? 



NWA-Planted said:


> yea I was trying to get a fill siphon balanced on mine.... Started just making me mad lol.


Use a second drain line to take up the slack -- Google "herbie overflow" for details on the approach.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

NatCh said:


> Don't the plants do that too?
> 
> 
> Use a second drain line to take up the slack -- Google "herbie overflow" for details on the approach.


Absolutely.. but a sump in general adds about 1-2 ppm of oxygen more to the water over what u previously had.. 
Not running a full siphon promotes a healthy gas exchange. Which also means u waste c02. But u have to inject more. Plants are actually being circulated more c02 because uve turned it up. It just doesnt accumulate in the water to deadly levels.

Fish dont mind the extra oxygen either
Thats is the number one goal of a sump
The extra bio filtration comes from the added oxygen lvls


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Okay I give up on the co2. I tied a T into the pump and reactor with a ball valve to slow it down. Well there are no longer any bubbles in the tank...but there isn't any freaking co2 in there either. I've had it on all day at about 6000 bps okay probably more around 10-15 bps (to fast to count) and the drop checker is barely showing any decrease in blue. It seemed that when the co2 wasn't difusing all the way it was doing more. WTF is wrong?


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## Acsuth (Oct 8, 2004)

Can someone experienced with sumps maybe help me out a little? I have been doing a lot of online searches on making DIY sump boxes and I get these elaborate plans that involve electric saws and welding cement.

I have the opportunity to buy a used tank that is already set up for a sump. It has the overflow box and I believe it is drilled. It was a reef tank, but I will be using it for freshwater.

It comes with the tank(that has the overflow box), stand and hood with lights. I need to get a pump, whatever tubing is used, and then the tank underneath. The tank is 58 gallons, so I was thinking a 20-25 gallon sump. 

This may be a stupid question . . . but why can't I just use a walmart storage bin then add filtration from there? 

I have no clue what I am doing. What kind of pump do I need? How many gallons per hour for the 58 gallons?

If someone could either link me to some info, or make me a list of what parts I need to buy to make this into a useable tank, I would be really grateful! thanks


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## Acsuth (Oct 8, 2004)

Would something like this work in my sump . . . 58 gallon tank + 20 gallon sump:

http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Filtrat...?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1331783420&sr=1-3


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

Acsuth said:


> Would something like this work in my sump . . . 58 gallon tank + 20 gallon sump:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Filtrat...?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1331783420&sr=1-3


keep it simple..









Fills on the right, Polly filter, open area holds heater and bio media, the pump runs it back up, no need to over complicate it 

No reason at all you can't use walmart storage bins! seen quite a few people use them actually.

Just remember a Sump is extra water container, your just seperating the media so water passes across/ through it, there is many ways to accomplish this

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## magnum (Jun 23, 2011)

I'd be happy to take the next pimp spot. I've been using a small DIY sump on my planted tank.


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## Wicket_lfe (Aug 21, 2008)

I just started a small overflow box for my shrimp tank, so I guess I'm back to using a sump. lol.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Acsuth said:


> Would something like this work in my sump . . . 58 gallon tank + 20 gallon sump:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Filtrat...?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1331783420&sr=1-3


 
also rio makes great reliable powerheads to use for a sump pump.
i'd reccomend one that can do at least 470 gph after 3-4 feet of head for a 58 gallon

as nwa said. kep the sump simple. design it how u want.if it was my choise. a small section for mechanical filtration. and a good sized area for heating the water and bio filtration
any other areas are practially irrelevant in a planted tank unless u want to make one for an extra pump to run c02 reactors UV etc etc.. those can all be included in one big pump area


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## FreshtoSalt (Dec 1, 2011)

This is almost exactly the same configuration as mine, +1 for simple.


NWA-Planted said:


> keep it simple..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## Acsuth (Oct 8, 2004)

Thanks for the tips, guys. I just paid for the set up and found out it comes with a 20 gallon tank already as the sump container underneath. 

They are delivering it tomorrow afternoon. 

I have to purchase a new glass canopy for the tank (I'm going to try Lowe's), and I just ordered a Marineland pump the 38 watt 474 GPH pump.

I think all I need now is a 250-300 watt heater, bio balls and the PVC pipe +parts:

1)bulkhead ? something to connect to the hole in the bottom of the tank under the overflow box.

2)male and female adapters for the PVC

3)PVC . . . still not sure what length and width, but I plan to pick the delivery guy's brain tomorrow.

I hope to have a list of what I need and go to Lowe's on Friday. 

Is that everything?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

magnum said:


> I'd be happy to take the next pimp spot. I've been using a small DIY sump on my planted tank.


 #11


Wicket_lfe said:


> I just started a small overflow box for my shrimp tank, so I guess I'm back to using a sump. lol.


 #12


Acsuth said:


> Thanks for the tips, guys. I just paid for the set up and found out it comes with a 20 gallon tank already as the sump container underneath.
> 
> They are delivering it tomorrow afternoon.
> 
> ...


 If it is already drilled and comes with the sump it may come with the plumbing and bulkheads. I would wait till you have it before buying anything else. 
Now if it doesn't have any pvc I would try to use 1" as I have had sucess with that. But you'll also have to take into account the bulkhead size. 
Once it arrives let us know what all it came with and we can help you piece the rest together.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Well u said the pump was 474 gph. Is that at 0 feet or 4 feet which is about standard headpressure from ur sump to the top of the tank. If its 474 at 0 ur likely to get about 180 - 200 gph in ur tank


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Here is the mock up of my sump that I am having built, he is going to start bonding it this weekend.










Craig


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Acsuth said:


> Thanks for the tips, guys. I just paid for the set up and found out it comes with a 20 gallon tank already as the sump container underneath.
> 
> They are delivering it tomorrow afternoon.
> 
> ...












That pump will only do 255GPH at 4' height. Depending on how you plump it, the tubing maybe longer and even less flow.

With a 58 gal tank, that is less than 5x turnover and that's with the pump running perfect with no restrictions due to elbows, bends, etc. I'm not sure that pump would be enough for what you want. I can't say anything about the quality of a Marineland pump, but for a few more dollars you could have gotten yourself a Magdrive 7, 700gph, which at 4' gives you 400gph, and almost 10x turnover. That and magdrive pumps are a good time tested quality pump.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

I see a sump in my future large tank project. I'll have to figure out how to minimize CO2 losses while still oxygenating the water column and bio film. I like to eat my cake with frosting on it


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> I see a sump in my future large tank project. I'll have to figure out how to minimize CO2 losses while still oxygenating the water column and bio film. I like to eat my cake with frosting on it


C02 loss control is easy with cpr made sumps. I cann assure u that 
Hob overflows also handle film. And oxygenate the water very well when sump is super sealed.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> C02 loss control is easy with cpr made sumps. I cann assure u that
> Hob overflows also handle film. And oxygenate the water very well when sump is super sealed.


'scuze my ignorance, but what is 'cpr' built?


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> 'scuze my ignorance, but what is 'cpr' built?


 LOL

CPR aquatics http://www.cpraquatic.com/products/index.html

simple designs. doesn't have 80000 chambers, easy to seal and work on, in, and around.
there overflows are excellent as well.. its not tube style but also hard to clean if u ever wanna do so


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## Chrome (Feb 26, 2012)

Well. I guess you can add me to the list. I am a converted reefer, switched a 90 reef ready over to freshwater planted. 
Unfortunately, I don't like the look of the overflow in the center of the tank. Hopefully the plants will grow in soon enough and block it. (Live rock always covered it in the reef tank)

20 Gallon wet dry sump with bio balls. Thinking about converting it from the wet dry trickle. to a submerged inlet. Probably do that when I get the CO2 setup. Then again if I can maintain co2 levels with the trickle I may leave it as is.

rather simple sump just 3 chambers, 1. trickle (bio balls) 2. sponge filter 3. return pump


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

I'll read up on the subject and build my own from scratch out of an old glass tank, some acrylic sheet plastic and silicone. Doesn't sound like rocket science.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Chrome said:


> Well. I guess you can add me to the list. I am a converted reefer, switched a 90 reef ready over to freshwater planted.
> Unfortunately, I don't like the look of the overflow in the center of the tank. Hopefully the plants will grow in soon enough and block it. (Live rock always covered it in the reef tank)
> 
> 20 Gallon wet dry sump with bio balls. Thinking about converting it from the wet dry trickle. to a submerged inlet. Probably do that when I get the CO2 setup. Then again if I can maintain co2 levels with the trickle I may leave it as is.
> ...


trickle style works for many of us. i use that method. there are just a few mods u can make to a sump to prevent major c02 loss.. the trickle style adds lots of o2 to the water which is key when adding gobs of c02 for high light situations
personally i'd move the overflow to the side instead of the middle. it seems to detract less from the overall aestetics 



audioaficionado said:


> I'll read up on the subject and build my own from scratch out of an old glass tank, some acrylic sheet plastic and silicone. Doesn't sound like rocket science.


its not


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## Chrome (Feb 26, 2012)

Well I'd move it, but it was built in bottom drilled (reef ready tank). Thought about cutting it out and capping the holes. Was going to do a "bean" style overflow if I kept it a reef.

Also thought about just removing the overflow and using the holes as intake and return. Biggest concern with that was, what if a hose pops loose. 90 gallons of water on the floor.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

ahh so its built in.... i vote MOSS WALL!


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

You can attach any kind of moss support lattice, cork bark/wood or flat rocks to the overflow and use good hose clamps on any hoses.


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## NateFank (Jan 2, 2009)

Well you can can add me to this list in a few weeks, I'm going to set up a sump after I move at the end of the month


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## Acsuth (Oct 8, 2004)

GeToChKn said:


> That pump will only do 255GPH at 4' height. Depending on how you plump it, the tubing maybe longer and even less flow.
> 
> With a 58 gal tank, that is less than 5x turnover and that's with the pump running perfect with no restrictions due to elbows, bends, etc. I'm not sure that pump would be enough for what you want. I can't say anything about the quality of a Marineland pump, but for a few more dollars you could have gotten yourself a Magdrive 7, 700gph, which at 4' gives you 400gph, and almost 10x turnover. That and magdrive pumps are a good time tested quality pump.


Ok, I wasn't sure which one to go with. The guy I bought it from says he *thinks* the drain rate is 800 gph which made me afraid to go with anything over 7. I don't know now, I am super frustrated.

I have this tank sitting here now, and I don't know what I am doing. Those people wanted to charge me extra to set it up and they charged me for delivery, even though their business sign says "free set up and delivery". I guess because this is not a new system, but still, I paid enough for it after everything got added up.

They told me I have to go to a plumbing supply store now to buy two poly bulkheads, the guy says he *thinks* 1/2 inch and 3/4 inch even though the 2 bottom holes are larger in diameter than that. I hate this *I think* stuff -- it really doesn't help my confidence in my ability to do this. 

I guess I could try to return the pump I bought and buy a stronger one. The next maxi-jet up is rated at 770-something gph and not sure how much going up 4 feet. Would that be ok, no danger of 2 fast for my drain flow?? I did a lot of google searches before I bought one and what I eventually boiled everything down to was that you can get by with a pump that is slower than one you need, but if you buy one that is too powerful then you're effed. 

I could really use someone's help with my supply list. I have never used a bulkhead before . . . I am imagining it is like a socket fitting, he said it came with a washer and that part goes above.

Then I have to get a bunch of male adapter parts for PVC which I need 1/2 inch pipe(if it turns out that the 1/2 inch bulkhead is the correct size). I had to ask about danger of overflow if the power goes out and he said I can get some kind of switch valve that prevents back flow. They also had no measurements to give me for what length to get the PVC cut . . . then I need 90 degree adapters for the part that flows back into the tank. 

Apparently for the drain side I need some sort of drilled pipe, which might be 3/4 inch PVC if the bulkhead fits. Then he said they put filter media around theirs with rubber bands to act as a prefilter as it drains. Then coming out of the bottom, he recommends I get some kind of plastic hosing . . .

Then they recommended I fill the whole 20 gallon tank with bio balls.

I have exams this week, I am stressing . . . I thought this was going to be set up by this weekend . . . I have a couple of fish coming at the end of this week and no place to put them . .. yeah poor planning, but this is ridiculous.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

hahahaha wow..

ok the hole probably takes a 3/4 inch bulkhead.. maybe even 1 inch but for 800 gph it needs to be at least 3/4.. the bulkhead takes a much bigger hole than the pipe size associated with it

it will use 3/4 slip pvc to run piping. if u use hose. use 1/4 inch bigger than the pvc slip size for good flow

overflows handle more than their rated amount my 300gph handles about 380 it just can't get dirty 800 gph should handle 800 NO PROBLEM

u can also buy strainers to go into the bulkhead and build ur own silencing systme.. look up durso standpipe
also the maxi-jet 3000 will have about 500gph at 4 foot head. not even close to 800 so don't be afraid there. i'd return the maxi jet in general and opt for somethign more powerful.. bare minimum. TAAM RIO 3100+ will have about 690gph at 4 foot head and is $76.00 online at marine depot. i price matched the maxi jet 3000 with 500 gph at 4 foot head and its 109 at the same store.. i dunno what u paid for it but it seems pricey.. taam has a good reputation as well.. i have two on my 29


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

you might even wanna go with a danner mag 9.5 which has 800 gph at 4 foot head.. its 100 bux

hey also make excellent pumps


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I love my danner mag drive. You can always put a ball valve on your output to adjust if it's too fast, but if it's too low, there is nothing you can do.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Acsuth said:


> Ok, I wasn't sure which one to go with. The guy I bought it from says he *thinks* the drain rate is 800 gph which made me afraid to go with anything over 7. I don't know now, I am super frustrated.
> 
> I have this tank sitting here now, and I don't know what I am doing. Those people wanted to charge me extra to set it up and they charged me for delivery, even though their business sign says "free set up and delivery". I guess because this is not a new system, but still, I paid enough for it after everything got added up.
> 
> ...


Try and take some pics and show us what you're referring to with everything you have. The bulkheads size refer to the tubing size connecting to it, so a 1" bulkhead will be like 1.25i-1.5ish hole.

Take your time, post some pics and I'm sure we can help you. I got my tank with sump and it was hard plumbed through the stand, so the return plumbing had to be cut for me to get the tank, so I got it home having no idea what I needed/how to plumb anything. A few questions on here, some googling, and I finally got it going. Took me about a week and I had to tear down the 2 turtle tanks that were there and house my turtles in a temp tank and plastic tubs for a while during that week to get it done. I wanted to have it done same day as well. Of course after bringing the 125gal from the guys basement, and up 3 flights of stairs to my place, I was done for the first day anyways. lol.


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

There's a flow calculator here that can give you a good idea what flow a particular arrangement can handle. It's kinda fun to play with if you're a nerd like me.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

NatCh said:


> There's a flow calculator here that can give you a good idea what flow a particular arrangement can handle. It's kinda fun to play with if you're a nerd like me.


ooooo yay nerds

check this one out!!!
much more variables to play with  
http://www.reefcentral.com/calc/hlc2.php


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

Great. Another competely unproductive day at work tomorrow.


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## ZLogic (Aug 7, 2011)

So does anybody in this club use their sumps for anything other than just filtration? Could you use the sump as a refugium/shrimp tank without worring about baby shrimp getting sucked back into the big tank?


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## ZLogic (Aug 7, 2011)

Or possibly use the sump as a breeder for live foods?


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

ZLogic said:


> Or possibly use the sump as a breeder for live foods?


I wonder about putting one of those "hatch & feed" brine shrimp thingies in there ... near the pump intake ....


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

ZLogic said:


> So does anybody in this club use their sumps for anything other than just filtration? Could you use the sump as a refugium/shrimp tank without worring about baby shrimp getting sucked back into the big tank?


It's possible, just put a nice foam block separating the return pump from the "fuge" area.


ZLogic said:


> Or possibly use the sump as a breeder for live foods?


Probably wouldn't work, see below.


NatCh said:


> I wonder about putting one of those "hatch & feed" brine shrimp thingies in there ... near the pump intake ....


They would get demolished by the return pump's impeller and come out the top as a mist.

In saltwater, copepods and amphipods are easily bred in a sump/refugium, and their babies (nauplii, I think they're called) are so tiny that they are unharmed by the impeller when passing into the display tank. Fully grown copepods/amphipods just become coral food at the top.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

shrimp mist HAHAHAHA


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

Thats funny.... Shrimp mist.. Lol.

Yea you could... Sounds bad but when I went to my Sump I ended up with some Mollie fry in the Sump. they are still there and growing!

Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I am using one of those marine land pumps on my 55g with a sump and it works just fine for me.


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## NateFank (Jan 2, 2009)

Hey how do you guys run your co2 reactors with a sump? I was planning my sump and was wondering what to do. Do you guys just and and extra pump to run the reactor? Thanks


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Some run the reactor inline with the return. My return is too powerful for my reactor so i ran a secondary pump. The outlet of the reactor is a 90 degree elbow 1 inch from my main return. Works excellante


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NateFank said:


> Hey how do you guys run your co2 reactors with a sump? I was planning my sump and was wondering what to do. Do you guys just and and extra pump to run the reactor? Thanks


 I use my return pump to power my reactor, I slow mine down with a T and ball valve.


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

Got a sump here also, so count me in the club guys. I do also have 2 questions to the experts:

1. Got a Mag 12 running and it keeps on making a ton of vibration/ rattling noise. What do you guys use to quiet it down? I already have the whole sump sitting on dampening material.

2. Thought it would be cool to run my heaters inside the sump. Now the temp is 2 degrees higher then I want it to be, and my hands I can't get in the to adjust the temp. Planning to take everything apart this weekend to adjust it, should I keep the heaters in there?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

nvladik said:


> Got a sump here also, so count me in the club guys. I do also have 2 questions to the experts:
> 
> 1. Got a Mag 12 running and it keeps on making a ton of vibration/ rattling noise. What do you guys use to quiet it down? I already have the whole sump sitting on dampening material.
> 
> 2. Thought it would be cool to run my heaters inside the sump. Now the temp is 2 degrees higher then I want it to be, and my hands I can't get in the to adjust the temp. Planning to take everything apart this weekend to adjust it, should I keep the heaters in there?


I can't help you with the Mag 12, I have a harbor freight pump and it is already quiet, but mine just sits on the bottom glass.
As for the heater, what kind of heater are you using? Does it have a controller with it? I personally would leave my heater in my sump (that's where mine is) but if you can't get into the sump to adjust things you might not have a choise but to move it. If you do move it into the tank I would suggest putting it next to/behind the return so you'll still have good heat circulation.


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

SlammedDC2 said:


> I can't help you with the Mag 12, I have a harbor freight pump and it is already quiet, but mine just sits on the bottom glass.
> As for the heater, what kind of heater are you using? Does it have a controller with it? I personally would leave my heater in my sump (that's where mine is) but if you can't get into the sump to adjust things you might not have a choise but to move it. If you do move it into the tank I would suggest putting it next to/behind the return so you'll still have good heat circulation.


I am using Eheim 300W heaters, I like them quiet a lot, but they sure are huge. Controllers are part of the header, a regular dial at the end of the heater. It's takes an effort to adjust it, and with limited room and just one hand I can't adjust it.

My tank is getting good circulation, I am not too worried about how the heat will spread out, but I am worried about how it will look once in the tank.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

nvladik said:


> Got a sump here also, so count me in the club guys. I do also have 2 questions to the experts:
> 
> 1. Got a Mag 12 running and it keeps on making a ton of vibration/ rattling noise. What do you guys use to quiet it down? I already have the whole sump sitting on dampening material.
> 
> 2. Thought it would be cool to run my heaters inside the sump. Now the temp is 2 degrees higher then I want it to be, and my hands I can't get in the to adjust the temp. Planning to take everything apart this weekend to adjust it, should I keep the heaters in there?


I have a mag 18 but mine is plumbed to be external and it's very quiet that way. My sump is drilled and that goes to a bulkhead that goes to the pump.

I have mine in there but I can pull on my heater cord and fish my heater out to get at it and adjust it, although with a warm spring and summer coming, I doubt I'll need it. Now you know when you get your heater out, turn it down 2degrees. lol.


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

GeToChKn said:


> I have mine in there but I can pull on my heater cord and fish my heater out to get at it and adjust it, although with a warm spring and summer coming, I doubt I'll need it. Now you know when you get your heater out, turn it down 2degrees. lol.


My heater is 20" long and opening is 8".


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

nvladik said:


> I am using Eheim 300W heaters, I like them quiet a lot, but they sure are huge. Controllers are part of the header, a regular dial at the end of the heater. It's takes an effort to adjust it, and with limited room and just one hand I can't adjust it.


I think SlammedDC2 is suggesting an external heater controller, such as this one (I'm not suggesting that one, just pointing it out for reference purposes).

They go between the heater and the power source, and have a separate temperature probe and thermostat controls, generally the idea seems to be to set the heater itself just a degree or two above where you actually want it, and let the controller turn it on and off at your true desired temperature.

There are several potential advantages to them, among them more precise temperature control and having something to stop the heater from making fish stew if its internal thermostat should happen to fail. Until now I hadn't really considered the advantage of being able to reach the adjustment controls more easily. :smile:


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

via aqua makes a sweet sump heater... its metal and externally controlled. saves a lot of space


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

Doing research on them now, thanks for the suggestion.

On a different topic, this morning I found some snails in my sump. Awesome. How much of an issue do you guys think it is?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

nvladik said:


> Doing research on them now, thanks for the suggestion.
> 
> On a different topic, this morning I found some snails in my sump. Awesome. How much of an issue do you guys think it is?


Got them in mine. If they make it somehow to the return pump and get ground up, fresh food mist for the fish. lol.


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## lbacha (Apr 13, 2011)

Howdy all, I'll be joining the sump crowd soon for my 75g Borneo Biotope. I have had many sumps before on numerous different saltwater and reef tanks and even a few freshwater I like their ability to keep the water level stable in the main display tank as well as giving a place for heaters media etc. the sump on this tank will be a 40g breeder and the reason for it is the Borneo stream Biotope I'm building will have a fluctuating water level do I needed a sump to store the water in, I will also use the tank as a growing tank for plants which will also help with biological filtration. The actual flow to the main tank will only be about 50/75 gph so I don't think CO2 will be an issue I have a 10lb tank to supply it with and plant load will be minimal in the waste section so not too concerned with the CO2 levels. Check out my Biotope thread to see what I'm talking about I will h e pics of the sump on there this weekend

Len


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> via aqua makes a sweet sump heater... its metal and externally controlled. saves a lot of space


 I have a catalina aquarium heater with external controller. It is nice not having to get my hand wet to change temp. 

As for snails in the sump...mine is full of them. I think they took refuge in there away from the assassin snails. It hasn't become any kind of problem and I haven't even thought about trying to get them out.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Lol snails taking refuge from assasins!


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> Lol snails taking refuge from assasins!


That's exactly how I feel.  They are hiding from my YoYo loaches.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> Lol snails taking refuge from assasins!


 You like that huh? lol



nvladik said:


> That's exactly how I feel.  They are hiding from my YoYo loaches.


Now my 55g doesn't have a single snail, in the tank or the sump. I have a red tail botia. He keeps all snails gone, no shrimp in the tank anymore and the plattys I put in there to breed for the turtle never even get a chance. I need to get him out just so I can go back to baby fish and shrimps for the turtle to graze on.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

I'll take the #20 sump pimp spot. That way it matches my Nikon pimp #20. Thanx


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Yes i liked that! I have shrimp that believe have learned its safer in my sump. I cull unwanted rcs from my 10 into my community tank as scooby snacks. A good portion makes it to the sump where i find them and locate them back into the tank and magically my sump is populated with them again.. i believe they are following ur snail principle


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I don't know if any shrimp will manage to make it into my sump but hey I didn't think the snails would either


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## Chrome (Feb 26, 2012)

nvladik said:


> Got a sump here also, so count me in the club guys. I do also have 2 questions to the experts:
> 
> 1. Got a Mag 12 running and it keeps on making a ton of vibration/ rattling noise. What do you guys use to quiet it down? I already have the whole sump sitting on dampening material.
> 
> 2. Thought it would be cool to run my heaters inside the sump. Now the temp is 2 degrees higher then I want it to be, and my hands I can't get in the to adjust the temp. Planning to take everything apart this weekend to adjust it, should I keep the heaters in there?



If I leave my pump on the bottom. it makes all kinds of noise as well. I put the prefilter sponge that came with it under the pump. I would think any sponge from the dollar store would serve the same purpose.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

RIO's come with a mounting bracket that has 4 rubber stickies.. they absorba lot of noise. also keep the first 6-12 inches of power cord comming out of the pump away from sump walls. thta transfers vibrations

my sump also was modified with those litle felt pads that are self adhesive. i put 16 1 inch pads on the bottom. this helps reduce noise transfer from the sump to the stand..


my advise on noise.. a lot of smaller fixes is better than one whole fix noise comes frm everywhere. so silencing a little bit everywhere is better than focusing on the main antagonist


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## fishyboy (Nov 16, 2003)

Hey All,
Just built my first sump today. I made a bubble trap (under, over, under) and hoped the last section would remain filled with water however I quickly found I was incorrect. The question is: Does the slight water fall over the 2nd baffel before skirting down the 3rd baffel to the water level hurt co2 levels that much? Would it be worth siliconing a piece of glass to seal the trap section and remove all air from the cavity?


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

The fall and amount of turbulence will determine that..keep things gentle and u have nothing to worry about


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## NateFank (Jan 2, 2009)

Hey can you guys post pics of how you guys set up your outflows? I'm trying to figure out how to go from the pump back into the tank. Thanks


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I have my pump in the bottom of the sump hooked to a 1" flexible hose, from there it goes into hard 1" pvc, that goes to the top of the tank and has two 1" outflows in different directions. I'll try to get you some pics but I don't have a lot of room behind the tank. I'll post something up tomorrow, I need to take some pics and update my journals anyway.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Ignore the overly complicated hoses in the picture. In the back you can see a soft hose going into pvc









Here the pipe turns around to head back up









and up we go









coming up the top









full length of the return pipe









the return









if you look at the left rear of the tank you can see a cap, there is another one to the right of the return so I can change things around if I find a need.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

lol all this plumbing going on makes me feel lazy.. im very simple when it comes to my plumbing


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Mine started out easy but once I made the mistake of going with co2 it got complicated with the reactor. I'm pretty sure I could uncomplicate it but that would involve me getting under the tank to mess with something that is currently working flawlessly.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Its hard to beat that. They say if it isnt broken dont fix it..... i find that saying has many good reasons backing it up


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## NateFank (Jan 2, 2009)

Thanks slammedDC that gives me some ideas


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> Its hard to beat that. They say if it isnt broken dont fix it..... i find that saying has many good reasons backing it up


 I agree


NateFank said:


> Thanks slammedDC that gives me some ideas


 not a problem


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

Interesting issue with my sump. So it was 88 degrees by me yesterday, perfect test of how hot the tank would get in the summer. The interesting part, it's 75 right now, and the tank is still pretty hot at 87, heater is set at 82.

How much heat could a mag 12 generate? Any ideas on possible cooling solutions?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

nvladik said:


> Interesting issue with my sump. So it was 88 degrees by me yesterday, perfect test of how hot the tank would get in the summer. The interesting part, it's 75 right now, and the tank is still pretty hot at 87, heater is set at 82.
> 
> How much heat could a mag 12 generate? Any ideas on possible cooling solutions?


Heaters can +- by a few degrees too, so if it's set at 82 and its off by 3 or so, that puts it close to your 87.


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## Chrome (Feb 26, 2012)

my mag 9.5 raises tank temps about 3-4 degrees. I don't currently even own a heater. Of course I should probably invest in a chiller since my tank never drops below 80. usually runs about 84-86.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

wow how do u guys get that? my tanks never get warm from pumps.. its it big pump specific?
i run a rio 1700ul and a rio 800 plus a koralia nano evolution 425. plus a heater just to stay at 78-79. house temp between 75-78 depending on weather and if i have a/c on or not


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

GeToChKn said:


> Heaters can +- by a few degrees too, so if it's set at 82 and its off by 3 or so, that puts it close to your 87.


 I've long since stopped paying attention to my heater's setting in favor of just watching the thermometer. (shrug) Eventually, I plan to add a heater controller module to the works in hopes of getting a little more precision.



nvladik said:


> Interesting issue with my sump. So it was 88 degrees by me yesterday, perfect test of how hot the tank would get in the summer. The interesting part, it's 75 right now, and the tank is still pretty hot at 87, heater is set at 82.


 Keep in mind that water heats and (especially) cools relatively slowly, especially in large quantities and small ambient temperature differentials. Except when there's something like a heater or chiller pushing it, of course.

You're talking about an ambient difference of only 12° and a time period of ~24 hours, and you haven't mentioned the total volume of water involved, but I'm assuming it's fairly substantial, since you're running a sump. Not that it matters, really, as I don't have enough expertise in this area to know what the relevant equations are, let alone work them!

In any case, my "fast and loose" understanding of the physics involved suggest to me that your tank was probably already in the "pretty hot" range before the hot day came along.

The only suggestion I can offer is turn down your heater a notch, check it in a few days, and turn it down more as needed.

If you decide that you need to push the temp down a little more aggressively (i.e. can't get it there just by backing off the heater), you can always set a small fan to blow across the surface. Your evap rate will go way up, but that's the trade that cools the water, and it's a whole hairy heck of a lot cheaper and simpler than adding a chiller. :icon_wink


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

A cheaper way to actively cool your tank is with a bong cooler. Guys use them to water cool their computers. It's a tall 3-4" dia pipe with water spraying down and air blowing up through the spray. You then recirc the cooled water in the bottom of the bong to a heat exchanger in your sump. Cheaper than a refrigeration compressor unit, but it's larger and will increase the room humidity a bit. Kinda like a swamp cooler vs an air conditioner.


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> A cheaper way to actively cool your tank is with a bong cooler. Guys use them to water cool their computers. It's a tall 3-4" dia pipe with water spraying down and air blowing up through the spray. You then recirc the cooled water in the bottom of the bong to a heat exchanger in your sump. Cheaper than a refrigeration compressor unit, but it's larger and will increase the room humidity a bit. Kinda like a swamp cooler vs an air conditioner.


Used one of those on my rig for a while, a 4" PVC pipe 4 feet tall with a shower head on the top, draining into a five gallon bucket and pumped back up 4 feet to the computer. Best cooling ever, IMHO, with CPU and GPU at idle, temperatures were about 4°C less than ambient, and at night would sometimes drop as much as 8°C below ambient. Fried a very, very expensive motherboard that way, though. CPU condensated underneath it and fried everything. At least the CPU was ok, it would have cost $800 to replace just that!


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## WhiskeyD (May 10, 2009)

Sump pimp #21(?) here! I've got a 55 gallon sump on my 180 gallon discus tank  I'll try to take some pictures of my sump in the next couple days and share. I've had the sump setup for about 2 years now I want to say and I've modified the sump a couple times to minimize co2 loss. It still off gases co2 bad since the intake section is only sealed with duct tape. I had a piece of glass cut to seal off the intake section but I haven't found anyone to drill a hole in it for the bulk head yet.


Edit - I guess I'm #16, not #21. I see someone requested #20 so thats why there was a gap in the names.


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## cheeman (Jan 26, 2011)

Sump pimp #16 Please. 
So I got a good deal on a external pump, but i think its a little to big for my set up. have,do any of you guys use and throttle back or redirect the flow at all?


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

cheeman said:


> Sump pimp #16 Please.
> So I got a good deal on a external pump, but i think its a little to big for my set up. have,do any of you guys use and throttle back or redirect the flow at all?


throttle if necessary. have u figured out the head loss yet?


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

jedimasterben said:


> Used one of those on my rig for a while, a 4" PVC pipe 4 feet tall with a shower head on the top, draining into a five gallon bucket and pumped back up 4 feet to the computer. Best cooling ever, IMHO, with CPU and GPU at idle, temperatures were about 4°C less than ambient, and at night would sometimes drop as much as 8°C below ambient. Fried a very, very expensive motherboard that way, though. CPU condensated underneath it and fried everything. At least the CPU was ok, it would have cost $800 to replace just that!



phew i've almost fried mine before when i ran liquid cooling
now i just run slight overclocks and a HUGE heatsink with a good flowing case.

but i've been there and i lovef liquid cooling
nothing beats a corvette radiator on the back of the desk cooled by a box fan


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## cheeman (Jan 26, 2011)

Yeah and I'm still at 1200gph or so with a 75g. Overkill. Lol.


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## Wy Renegade (Nov 29, 2011)

Running several sumps on saltwater tanks, but the first freshwater sump is yet to come. My recently set-up paludarium is drilled, but runs with a canister filter rather than a sump.


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## WhiskeyD (May 10, 2009)

cheeman said:


> Sump pimp #16 Please.
> So I got a good deal on a external pump, but i think its a little to big for my set up. have,do any of you guys use and throttle back or redirect the flow at all?


I throttle back my return pump with a ball valve. Supposedly the magnetic driven pumps will actually draw less power when throttled back.


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## flight50 (Apr 17, 2012)

I will be able to pimp later this year. I will be starting a slow build from scratch. Each month I plan to progress on my build until its complete. Going for a "Dream Tank" with the space I have for it.

I will be converting my 55 planted into a sump for a new 165g-170g acrylic tank setup that I will start construction next month.


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

GeToChKn said:


> Heaters can +- by a few degrees too, so if it's set at 82 and its off by 3 or so, that puts it close to your 87.


Before increase in heat it was spot on. Had it turned off since then, tank still stabilizing at 10 degrees over ambient.




HD Blazingwolf said:


> wow how do u guys get that? my tanks never get warm from pumps.. its it big pump specific?
> i run a rio 1700ul and a rio 800 plus a koralia nano evolution 425. plus a heater just to stay at 78-79. house temp between 75-78 depending on weather and if i have a/c on or not


Thought of how it could happen myself, over night Pump was the only item running in my tank. 10 degrees over ambient this AM.


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## nvladik (Jan 12, 2012)

jedimasterben said:


> Used one of those on my rig for a while, a 4" PVC pipe 4 feet tall with a shower head on the top, draining into a five gallon bucket and pumped back up 4 feet to the computer. Best cooling ever, IMHO, with CPU and GPU at idle, temperatures were about 4°C less than ambient, and at night would sometimes drop as much as 8°C below ambient. Fried a very, very expensive motherboard that way, though. CPU condensated underneath it and fried everything. At least the CPU was ok, it would have cost $800 to replace just that!


Ohh the liquid cooling days, I remember those days and burning out a few CPUs.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

You people and your cooling of computers haha
I haven't owned a computer for years. Iphone and work computer for me. 

I don't have any problems with my temp rising from my pump, tank stays at 79º


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## flight50 (Apr 17, 2012)

SlammedDC2 said:


> You people and your cooling of computers haha
> I haven't owned a computer for years. Iphone and work computer for me.
> 
> I don't have any problems with my temp rising from my pump, tank stays at 79º


I hope I don't have problems with sump heat. 79 will be a bit high for me though. I am aiming for 74-76. Room temp will be about 78-80 during the summer here in North Texas with outside temps being 95-105. I might have to run a diy refrigerator chiller.

Don't mean the thread jack but what pump is everyone running. I am looking for reliable, quiet and power at 4-5' head for 500gph or less. I have looked into Eheim 1260 and the Danner Mag 7 so far.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Your not threadjacking man, that's what this thread was started for answering sump related question (when we stay on topic)

I have a harbor freight sub. pump rated at 1250gph. To be honest I have no idea what the head height is.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

I love my taam rio. it was reccommended to me and so far... no complaints

quite, and apparently doesnt get hot. easy to clean

i have a rio 1700 UL. its like 300 gph at 4 foot of head
the 2300 might be a better option for u for that gph rating


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Okay I'm having an issue with one of my sumps. My 55g has a DIY pvc overflow (like this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kjSLPVoLIs4 )
It has worked flawless for the last 6 months, well not anymore. I shut the power off this weekend like all weekends so I could do my water change. Well when I was done I flipped the power back on and sat down to watch TV. A few minutes later I hear the pump running dry. I was able to reprime (with my mouth...mmm turtle water tastes good) I put a new check valve on thinking maybe that's why. Well I killed the power again and let it drain back, once again it just filled over the overflow. It still wouldn't reprime. 
What are your thoughts? I don't like the idea of burning up a pump in the event the power goes out while not at home.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

In the video the dude mentions u have to fill both tubes? Is there any stuck debris? I hated pvc overflows. It seems too easy for them to get bubbles


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

It's worked for 6 months without a problem. Every weekend I cut power to do WC and then flip power back on. Never had a problem till this past weekend. Nothing is stuck/clogged. Once I suck all the air back out it runs just fine.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Have water levels been adjusted anywhere in the system? That might affect it? Balance? Has the level of anything changed?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

No changes. Tank is always filled to the overflow, sump is always filled to "fill when running" line. 
I almost bought a rena x3 yesterday but it was gone when I went to get it. As you can see this is getting aggervating. I don't want to have a power outage and burn up my pump.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

just buy a conventional overflow then???? u started the sump pimps.. don't leave us now!!


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

The problem with a traditional overflow is the tank is 2/3-3/4 full. It houses my turtle. The only traditional overflows I know of hang off the back in some form or fashion. 

Now worries of me leaving, the 125 sump is here to stay, hell that thing is going to be doing a lot of work in the next few days.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> The problem with a traditional overflow is the tank is 2/3-3/4 full. It houses my turtle. The only traditional overflows I know of hang off the back in some form or fashion.
> 
> Now worries of me leaving, the 125 sump is here to stay, hell that thing is going to be doing a lot of work in the next few days.


Same with my turtle tank, only 2/3 full but since my tank was drilled with 2 corner overflows that have the slots cut in them, I just drilled in the black plexi holes where I want the water line to be. Then I drill another set 2" above those just in case the first get clogged so it will never flood past their basking docks. I think cut my standby pipes down a bit so the system now works at 2/3 full level instead of full.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

AH now i see the dilema....have u ever thought of buying an auto prime system?

the tom's aqualifter is superb. i have one on mine stays quiet if flow isn't restricted to it
auto primes the system if u lose power, and is easy enough to unplug if ur doing maintenance and u don't wanna hear it try to suck water up


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## Sdavis1982 (Apr 26, 2012)

Can i ask what everyone is using as a first stage filter in there sump? Filter floss pillow stuffing are some that i have seen

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

A 1/8 inch thick filter foam pad


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Sdavis1982 said:


> Can i ask what everyone is using as a first stage filter in there sump? Filter floss pillow stuffing are some that i have seen
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


Gave up on floss. With turtles it's get clogged too fast and makes my drip tray overflow which has a built in overflow to go over the sides but it still gets so full it plugged up and flooded a bit.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

GeToChKn said:


> Same with my turtle tank, only 2/3 full but since my tank was drilled with 2 corner overflows that have the slots cut in them, I just drilled in the black plexi holes where I want the water line to be. Then I drill another set 2" above those just in case the first get clogged so it will never flood past their basking docks. I think cut my standby pipes down a bit so the system now works at 2/3 full level instead of full.


I would really rather not tear the tank down to drill it however the thought has crossed my mind more than once.



HD Blazingwolf said:


> AH now i see the dilema....have u ever thought of buying an auto prime system?
> 
> the tom's aqualifter is superb. i have one on mine stays quiet if flow isn't restricted to it
> auto primes the system if u lose power, and is easy enough to unplug if ur doing maintenance and u don't wanna hear it try to suck water up


I've also got one on my 125g keeping my cpr overflow primed. I think tonight I will pull it off and hook it to the 55g and make sure it will work, if it does I will order one. Thanks for the idea. I don't know why I never thought of that, I guess out of sight out of mind. 



Sdavis1982 said:


> Can i ask what everyone is using as a first stage filter in there sump? Filter floss pillow stuffing are some that i have seen
> 
> Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


I use loofahs and pillow floss for my first two stages.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

EHH no problem.. i've often been reminded of what i would consider mundane things


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Okay so I came home from work yesterday to a horrible gurgling sound coming from the 55g. I notice the water level is quite high. Open the stand to see the sump is dry with the pump running and heater exposed to the air. So now it is losing it's prime without losing power. I sucked all the air out and it started running again. This morning I again sucked air out that built up overnight in hopes it would be fine while I work and try to find an aqua lifter pump on my lunch. /rant


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## Calmia22 (Aug 20, 2011)

Not sure where your at number wise but I want to be in the club! I am making a sump for my 55 here in a few weeks!


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

Could the tubing itself have come loose from a joint? did u just primer them and stick them together. or primer and cement?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Calmia22 said:


> Not sure where your at number wise but I want to be in the club! I am making a sump for my 55 here in a few weeks!


#18 - Calmia22



HD Blazingwolf said:


> Could the tubing itself have come loose from a joint? did u just primer them and stick them together. or primer and cement?


primer and cement, I don't want any kinds of leaks. The only non cemented joint is the dump in the sump to make for easier cleaning and it is still tight as of last night. 
And I swore the pets mart here sold the aqua lifter pumps but I seem to be wrong. It seems the more times I travel into pets mart the less I like them. They don't want to help, they have no knowledge of anything aquatic, they "are not allowed to order any fish not carried per corporate" (their words not mine). They don't even have the bulbs I need for my T5 lights. I guess it's back to driving 50+ miles to Nashville for anything I need.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> #18 - Calmia22
> 
> 
> 
> ...


anything my local local. in town fish store can't get. i order online. period. i will never intentioanlly buy from pesmart for that reason
btw all 4 local stores don't carry an aqualifte here either.. not even the saltwater specialty store... DUH u'd think they would have an auto prime system for heir sumps... guess not. i live in the butt crack of the world sometimes


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

HD Blazingwolf said:


> anything my local local. in town fish store can't get. i order online. period. i will never intentioanlly buy from pesmart for that reason
> btw all 4 local stores don't carry an aqualifte here either.. not even the saltwater specialty store... DUH u'd think they would have an auto prime system for heir sumps... guess not. i live in the butt crack of the world sometimes


Really? I woulda thought Chatanooga would have more than 4 lfs. I know a shop in Nashville does (The aquatic critter). Well I didn't want to have to order but it looks like I'm off to amazon. 
As far as the 55g goes, it was gurgling when I got home. This thing is getting to me, I just need it to last a few more days till I get the aqua lifter.


**EDIT
ordered


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> So now it is losing it's prime without losing power.


Can you tell where the air is getting into the loop? That's a pretty significant dysfunction, I expect the AL pump will manage it well enough, but it seems like dealing with the syphon breakage would also be a Good Thing ....


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

NatCh said:


> Can you tell where the air is getting into the loop? That's a pretty significant dysfunction, I expect the AL pump will manage it well enough, but it seems like dealing with the syphon breakage would also be a Good Thing ....


 No, I have no idea. If I have time today I might just rebuild it with the leftovers in the garage.


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

Yeah, sometimes ya just gotta start over. (shrug)


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

4 is it. And thats including the greater chatt area. Petco, petsmart, bermuda triangle, and fish mania


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

wow that sucks. We also have four. Petsmart, pet food co, J&M, and Pet Palace <--this would be the best out of the bunch.


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## NatCh (Feb 23, 2011)

Y'all're doing better than Jackson is. We just have PetsmartCo (yes, both, about a mile and a half apart).

I have found evidence of three or four actual aquarium shops that existed here at some unknown point in the past, but they were all well gone before we moved here five years ago.


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

MAN that's bummer. i am at least proud of my lfs. fish mania. they don't have much in terms of equipment or plants. but the fish are in great health, its great to no have to worr about sickly fish when i leave the store.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

So the other day I was thinking about water changes and wanted to stop using a python and wasting the water to siphon out of the sump.

Does anyone use the pump in the sump for water changes?


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> So the other day I was thinking about water changes and wanted to stop using a python and wasting the water to siphon out of the sump.
> 
> Does anyone use the pump in the sump for water changes?


 Not at all, I don't want to undo any plumbing, I just use my python and watch TV or mess with another tank while it drains. Plus I find the python is helpful as I go room to room from 10g to 10g to 15g to 20g to 55g to 125g


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

I just made a 25 foot siphon hose with strainers to drain outside


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Okay fella's I need to figure out a new way for the turtle to come out of the water. She has gotten a little big for the mantz that she was using. I could easily go to petsmart, etc and get a floating turtle dock but I want something that is more realistic looking. What are ya'lls thoughts?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

SlammedDC2 said:


> Okay fella's I need to figure out a new way for the turtle to come out of the water. She has gotten a little big for the mantz that she was using. I could easily go to petsmart, etc and get a floating turtle dock but I want something that is more realistic looking. What are ya'lls thoughts?


Mine isn't realistic looking (I could fix this with fake grass, silicone rocks, etc) but went with Celuka and made a dock, with a ramp going up. Celuka is basically PVC that is melted, a bit of air inserted and cooled into sheets, stripes, etc. It is very hard, safe for water like PVC, will never rot, easy to clean. My roomie uses it at work and got some scrape, so not sure where to buy it but cuts like wood with any saw. 

Here's a pic of the ramps in either end. This pic is a bit old as I put a solid base of Celuka on the bottom of the ramp as well and a big rock sits on that to keep it in place. I'm sure I could paint them, silicone gravel on them, etc to give them a natural look but this tank is basic for maximum room for them, plastic plants get knocked over, real plants get eaten, so it's some rocks on the bottom they like going through, some feeder fish and basking docs.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> So the other day I was thinking about water changes and wanted to stop using a python and wasting the water to siphon out of the sump.
> 
> Does anyone use the pump in the sump for water changes?


I do. I shut off my my pump and let the sump fill, turn 1 ball joint to turn off 1 return line, I have a piece of hose with a connector that I attach to my other return line and put it out my window and drain the sump. Figure with the crap that builds up in there, that's the better water to change anyways over the tank water. Takes about 30s to setup and drains the sump (and does about a 20gal WC) in a minute or two.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

GeToChKn said:


> I do. I shut off my my pump and let the sump fill, turn 1 ball joint to turn off 1 return line, I have a piece of hose with a connector that I attach to my other return line and put it out my window and drain the sump. Figure with the crap that builds up in there, that's the better water to change anyways over the tank water. Takes about 30s to setup and drains the sump (and does about a 20gal WC) in a minute or two.



can I get a pic :red_mouth?

My only concern is the pump sucking in air once the water level in sump gets low. Do you have anything in place to make sure this doesn't happen? Also how do you maximize the amount of water being removed so that you drain the sump almost empty?

Sorry for all the questions


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> can I get a pic :red_mouth?
> 
> My only concern is the pump sucking in air once the water level in sump gets low. Do you have anything in place to make sure this doesn't happen? Also how do you maximize the amount of water being removed so that you drain the sump almost empty?
> 
> Sorry for all the questions


Soon as it gets low to the point of sucking it air, I shut it off.

My tank has 2 corner overflows (you can sort of see in the pics), and each one has a standoff pipe for the drain, with strainer on top of that, then a sponge on it, (and a float inside the pipe to adjust the amount draining by the level of the overflow box). I always fill my sump to the point that if the pump is off, the water level in the overflows is at the top of the standoff pipe and won't drain anymore. I leave enough room that if for some reason the standoff pipe came loose and both overflows fully drained, the sump wouldn't overflow (marked a mark on my sump for the MAX waterline). So what I do is pull the standout pipes out, so the overflow fully drain, fills the sump to the rim, connect my drain to the return, drain till almost empty (only about an inch of water left in my sump before the pump is pulling in air), then refill the tank until the overflow kick in, fill the sump to my max line and turn the pump back on.


Until Nov, I never had a sump before and I have causes a few overflows but I have it down now and have learned lots about how it works and such.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

GeToChKn said:


> Until Nov, I never had a sump before and I have causes a few overflows but I have it down now and have learned lots about how it works and such.


I'm still in the learning stage =), I setup a breeding rack of 8 20L using 2 sumps. Ran into a lot of snags and had to figure out ways to fix them, good news I think after setting up the tanks if any plumbing issue in the house to arise I could easily fix them :icon_wink.



So you have 2 ball valves on the return from the pump. One going in line to the display that stays open (until you do a water change, then you close this one). A second ball valve which runs to a drain line you have go out your window (this one stays closed until you do a water change and open it to drain the water out)? 

I wonder if there is a another way to do this with just one valve. One that can switch the routing of water, to either the display or the drain.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> I'm still in the learning stage =), I setup a breeding rack of 8 20L using 2 sumps. Ran into a lot of snags and had to figure out ways to fix them, good news I think after setting up the tanks if any plumbing issue in the house to arise I could easily fix them :icon_wink.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



No, I have two returns to the tank, one on each side. I close one and use the other to drain for WC's.

You could certainly split your return with a T, put a ball valve on the one to use for a drain and just close it until you use it. I would recommend putting one on the return line though so you can adjust the return rate to your system. Sometime the pump on full is too much and you need to adjust. Using a pump like a magdrive, they are designed to work fine with being restricted by a ball valve and use less power when they do.


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## BreakingBread (Sep 1, 2012)

I want to be a sump pimp! i have an 80 gallon 3/8 acrylic sump with a 35 gallon trickle system. pimp me up!


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## BreakingBread (Sep 1, 2012)

Am i #19?


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

BreakingBread said:


> Am i #19?


I think #17 was skipped unless I missed it. 19 works though!

Sent from a dark corner in my happy place


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## BreakingBread (Sep 1, 2012)

sweet


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## kseanm247 (Feb 13, 2013)

Count me in. 75 gallon tank with an Eshopps WC-100 sump.

#22 - kseanm247


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## Land_lubber (Aug 28, 2012)

Count me in as well. I just went through the pages and there isn't many pics of peoples sumps and tanks. Could people post some so other people can see how they have done their sump. I will take some today and post later.


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## JKS (Aug 10, 2013)

You can count me in roud:

My all in one tank came with a sump not a trickle filter :icon_mrgr


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## BeastMaster (Dec 17, 2012)

*Here's my contribution*

Constructed a sump to house foam filter blocks for a DBP 3L tank. The sump box was made from glass dividers and the glass top that came with the tank. This DIY project is what I call my "OTS Mattenfilter" (OTS-on the side). :bounce:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=317738


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## Land_lubber (Aug 28, 2012)

Nice, here is my sump



The overflow goes into the left where the bio balls are and from there goes through different coarse porat foam before heading back up through the return on the far right.


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## Land_lubber (Aug 28, 2012)

Oh I have lids on my sump as well to help reduce evaporation and keep the heat in as well. Thinking of insulating the back and sides of the sump to help with heat as well.


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

Whee clubs...this is my second sump build. #23 ?

In progress pics, but almost done. 


















Very much a budget build, and yes I know the return pump situation is 'less than ideal'. This is a 50G tank, going under a 125G display.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Hey guys, it's been awhile but I did some updating to the OP.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

Hey guys, I'm going to redo my big tank and I figure while I've got it down I might as well go ahead and do the sump as well. 

I originally used plexiglas as dividers but those started washing out after a year or so. I'm thinking this time I will use glass dividers but I want to know of any tricks y'all used to make sure the silicone didn't wear out and give way over time.

I plan to redo my sump with a design similar to this:


Now this one has very little silicone around the dividers where mine had much more. Prob three coats and I used my fingers to work it into all the little nooks and cranny's to make sure it got in there good. I let it dry for 24 hours after each application. So what are your thoughts/tips/tricks?
TIA

Also does anyone know where I might be able to find any foam like in the pic?


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

IIRC you can get the foam at places like Big Al's (LFS), or off amazon in big sheets/rolls.

I had no issues with silicone/acrylic - just used a lot. Be sure to let it cure for 48-72 hours minimum, most especially if you are really gooping it on. After 24 hours anything thicker than 1/4" will still be liquid on the bottom.

Note that the design you're showing - the first baffle is too high (well, no point in being that high). The water level in that first section will only get as high as the next baffle over.

Also, there's no 'dry' section to this, i.e. for a drip tray. Everything I've read (barrreport, here) indicates that freshwater sumps really benefit from a drip tray so you get more types of bacteria.

For mine, I have a higher first baffle (raised 2" off the bottom) than necessary - aesthetics, but a functional mistake. Note the second baffle (which touches the bottom of the sump) has the drip tray immediately flowing off the same height.

This design allows me to have a wet/dry sump with only two baffles. The drawback is that the entire unit must be sealed to reduce CO2 off-gassing.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

crazymittens said:


> IIRC you can get the foam at places like Big Al's (LFS), or off amazon in big sheets/rolls.
> 
> I had no issues with silicone/acrylic - just used a lot. Be sure to let it cure for 48-72 hours minimum, most especially if you are really gooping it on. After 24 hours anything thicker than 1/4" will still be liquid on the bottom.
> 
> ...


So basically let each coat dry longer?


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

It'll eventually cure (as long as we're not talking 1" deep), but the absolute minimum is 48 hours, recommended a week. Don't forget...it off-gasses ammonia!


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## Legot (Jun 29, 2013)

Can I join the club?!?! I've got a 10g reverse night cycle planted sump on my 20long running a 6" DSB.


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

crazymittens said:


> It'll eventually cure (as long as we're not talking 1" deep), but the absolute minimum is 48 hours, recommended a week. Don't forget...it off-gasses ammonia!


No nothing that thick. I think I am going to call some glass shops and see what they can price me and what they would charge to seal it all in place.
I think I am going to use a 30L instead of the 29 that is currently in use. The 29 works but is so tall that it makes maintenance a little difficult. I think something shorter and longer is better. The other nice thing is I can take my time building the 30L so when I take everything down it will already be done and the reassembly will be faster. The downside is I was going to use that 30L to house my fish while it was down. Maybe I need to get on craigslist and look for a temporary home.
All things to think about and figure out how I am going to do this. 



Legot said:


> Can I join the club?!?! I've got a 10g reverse night cycle planted sump on my 20long running a 6" DSB.


#27 - Legot


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

The downside to a shorter (height) sump is you then can't do quite so much wet/dry functionality - it requires a certain amount of height above the water level for the dry portion. I agree it makes maintenance trickier in a smaller cabinet, though.

The water pressure you're dealing with really isn't much...I'd just DIY the silicone. If you had a 100 gallon sump...then maybe more attention to detail would be required...


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

For us would it not be considered a wet dry filter


Sent from my iPad 3 using Tapatalk HD


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

Oh...I'm confused. Drip tray area is the wet/dry...stuff above water = dry, stuff below water = wet. Wet/dry. No? :S


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## anastasisariel (Oct 4, 2009)

75 gallon tank with 29 gallon tank converted to sump.


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## Mr.Bill (Aug 22, 2013)

crazymittens said:


> Oh...I'm confused. Drip tray area is the wet/dry...stuff above water = dry, stuff below water = wet. Wet/dry. No? :S


Yep if the media is above the water and water trickling down, yep a wet/dry or a trickle tower for the freshwater term 

I am going to use my old sea clear sump that I had for my reef tank, and fill with water to submerge the bioballs, and run air stones from an air pump under the bioballs making it a moving bed. 
And with filter pads above it where the drip tray way. 

Love the idea of keeping the sump for my 75 gallon planted tank, constant water level in the display tanks, no surface scum, and hide all of the equipment, Probably make use of a phosban 150 reactor as a CO2 reactor down in the sump as well if deemed necessary. 
Have a nice CPR 100 overflow, with a aqua lift to keep the syphon auto start.


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