# removing plant from dirted tank



## TankPlanter (May 31, 2015)

I'm wondering whether I can just cut out an extensively rooted plant at the base to remove it, leaving the roots, rather than kicking up lots of dirt trying to get the roots out? I've read that decaying roots ruin the soil for other plants, can cause anaerobic conditions, etc... So I'm not sure what to do. 

I tried wisteria in my low tech, dirt tank (please see specs below) and I don't like it and want it out- the light is too low for it, so there are only a couple of leaves at the top of spindly stems. But the fine roots are **quite** extensive. Ideas???

Thanks!

Specs: 20g long, Stingray light, MGOPM with medium black diamond sand cap, no CO2, 40g sponge filter, heater at 75F. Livestock: Threadfin rainbows, celestial pearl danios, nerite, Malaysian trumpet and pond snails, red cherry shrimp.


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## Daisy Mae (Jun 21, 2015)

I normally just cut the plant at the base and leave the roots be. The only reasons to remove them (for me) would be if the roots were too thick, thereby preventing insertion of a new plant in the same area.


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## TankPlanter (May 31, 2015)

Phew, awesome! I'll just cut them off at the base and leave the roots, thanks.


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## Timmy!! (Jun 26, 2014)

Yes, cutting it is literally like the only way to remove rooted plants in dirt. That's one of the big downsides to dirt, can't pull things up and move them around.. 

Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk


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## Monster Fish (Mar 15, 2011)

Timmy!! said:


> Yes, cutting it is literally like the only way to remove rooted plants in dirt. That's one of the big downsides to dirt, can't pull things up and move them around..
> 
> Sent from my SM-G386T using Tapatalk


Not completely true. I move established crypts from my dirted tanks all the time. You just need to slowly pull up the plant and gently tug the roots one at a time. You might get some dirt above the cap but mechanical filtration and a water change afterwards should remove it from the water column.


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## Caliban07 (Aug 19, 2015)

It's a commons misconception that plants can't be moved around in a soil substrate.

There are benefits within the soil that actually work to stop debris from being kicked up. Although it is inevitable that some substrate particles will enter the water column, it settles again very quickly. 

Firstly, the polysaccharide substances that the soil microorganisms produce acts as barrier that reduces the amount of soil particles that enter the water.

Secondly, the interaction between the negatively charged soil colloids (particularly in soils with heavy clay content) and soil water cations encourage flocculation which increases the rate in which the soil particles settle.

If you uproots slowly and carefully there's no reason for the soil to cause lasting problems. 

There are literally no downsides to using soil in my opinion


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## HDBenson (Jan 26, 2015)

I agree that moving firmly rooted plants in soil is EASILY done. Patience and steadiness are key. My methods: Stems, cut off at base as already mentioned. Swords, Sag, Vals, Cryptocoryne etc, place hand over substrate with crown(s) of plant being uprooted between thumb and forefinger OR between middle and ring fingers. Gently and slowly pull straight up. Most debris(anything roots have latched to) will stay in the substrate. Then, as mentioned, vacuuming and or good mechanical filtration will take care of the rest. It took me a few attempts to "master" this technique but works very well for me.


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## TankPlanter (May 31, 2015)

Thanks for the info! I cut most of them at the base and that went fine. A couple were less established, so I very very slowly pulled them out. As posters have noted, a bit of soil came with it, but I was about to do a 25% water change anyway, and the tank looked fine afterwards. I didn't know the sword/val technique, which might come in handy later, so I appreciate the input.


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