# My first Planted Tank



## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Haven't heard from anyone yet, but I have a few questions if you all don't mind.

First, what would be the best way to add firts to the tank? Which plants would benefit from root tabs so that I have a better idea of where to place them? I'm guessing the stem plants but I just want to be sure. I'm also looking to pick up some liquid Flourish. Good idea? Not so much?

Second, I've just noticed today what appears to be staghorn algae. First thought was to reduce the light a bit, get started on firts and perhaps dose with Flourish Excel. Any other ideas? I want to add my RCS in the near future and don't want to do anything that would be harmful to them.

Last, what do you think of the scape? Anything that looks like it needs modification? I think I'm going to pull the dwarf onion out as I read today that it shouldn't be fully submerged. Other than that I'm open to suggestions.

Thanks


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## Nue (Dec 27, 2009)

Nice Start! Stem plants would benefit least from the root tabs, they get most of the nutrients from the water column. As for the scape maybe move the wood, so its not leaning on the glass. Also to add, shrimp do ok with excel, but not great. Might want to think about another source for your carbon, if you want your shrimp to excel


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Welcome to TPT!

You want to make sure that the rhizome on your Anubias (the horizontal green "stem" that the leaves are growing out of) is pulled up out of the substrate and exposed to light. You might consider tying this plant onto the driftwood, as Anbuias do really well grown this way.

Seachem does have a good line of liquid ferts, and there is a suggested dosage chart at www.Seachem.com. You're probably going to need more than just Excel and Comprehensive to keep up with your lighting, though- you're on the high side of low light and probably should consider this a "medium light" tank. You probably will need to dose macro ferts and may need DIY CO2 in addition to the Excel for your stem plants to thrive.

www.GreenLeafAquariums.com and www.AquariumFertilizer.com have good dry fert packages (which are much cheaper over time than dosing liquid ferts) as well as some links that explain fert dosing.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Nue said:


> Nice Start! Stem plants would benefit least from the root tabs, they get most of the nutrients from the water column. As for the scape maybe move the wood, so its not leaning on the glass. Also to add, shrimp do ok with excel, but not great. Might want to think about another source for your carbon, if you want your shrimp to excel


Thanks for the heads up on the stem plants and excel. I don't have any shrimp as of yet and was thinking about using the excel to help get rid of the algae. Think I'd be able to get rid of it before the shrimp go in and then switch to something else before the shrimp go in?


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> Welcome to TPT!
> 
> You want to make sure that the rhizome on your Anubias (the horizontal green "stem" that the leaves are growing out of) is pulled up out of the substrate and exposed to light. You might consider tying this plant onto the driftwood, as Anbuias do really well grown this way.
> Figured this one out the other day and fixed it already. Thanks
> ...


Thanks for those links. I'll check them out for sure.

LOL, it won't let me post the urls or websites because I have less than 5 posts. Lets try this again.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

The WPG "guideline" doesn't really apply as well any more due to the development of relatively new lighting technology such as T5 and T5HO. These fixtures put out vastly more usable light per watt than the old T12, T8, and even CF fixtures. So yes, your tank is in the "medium" light category due to your T5 fixture, regardless of your actual WPG. 

Also, in a 20gal tank, the plants are very close to the light- wpg has never worked well in regards to taking into account tank depth/distance of the plants from the light source. A 10gal tank at 1.5 wpg is actually much higher light than a 29gal tank with 2.0 wpg, given the same type of fixture, simply b/c most of the plants in the 29gal tank are so much further from the bulb.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> The WPG "guideline" doesn't really apply as well any more due to the development of relatively new lighting technology such as T5 and T5HO. These fixtures put out vastly more usable light per watt than the old T12, T8, and even CF fixtures. So yes, your tank is in the "medium" light category due to your T5 fixture, regardless of your actual WPG.
> 
> Also, in a 20gal tank, the plants are very close to the light- wpg has never worked well in regards to taking into account tank depth/distance of the plants from the light source. A 10gal tank at 1.5 wpg is actually much higher light than a 29gal tank with 2.0 wpg, given the same type of fixture, simply b/c most of the plants in the 29gal tank are so much further from the bulb.


Thats all very good information to know. Thank you very much for that input. I'll do some looking into co2 setups.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

I still haven't figured out the co2 thing but I'm working towards that but I have moved a few things and picked up 3 ottos today. The Excell has helped with the hair algae quite a bit (there is still some but its less every day) so I figured I'd get these little guys to help with the other algae.

I am getting a lot of new growth. The Red Ludwigia is growing very well and I've got a few other plants with new runners popping up. So far I'm very pleased. Could use a lesson in aesthetics one of these days though.

On to the pics...









My favorite plant and one of my new Ottos









Another shot with some Cardinals in the background.









New growth. Anyone know what this plant is called?









One more of the new Ottos









FTS
What do you guys think?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Your "mystery plant" looks an awful lot like Mondo grass. If that's the case, it's not aquatic and eventually will just poop out on you. It'd do better in a pot as a houseplant.

Echinodorus tenellus or Sagittaria would give you a similar look and be suitable for your tank setup, however.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> Your "mystery plant" looks an awful lot like Mondo grass. If that's the case, it's not aquatic and eventually will just poop out on you. It'd do better in a pot as a houseplant.
> 
> Echinodorus tenellus or Sagittaria would give you a similar look and be suitable for your tank setup, however.


Thank you for that information. I like that look over there and was happy to see that new growth but if its not aquatic, I'll look into what you have suggested there. 

Thanks again. You've been a lot of help to me so far.


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## mumushummus (Sep 16, 2009)

cool tank man !!!
nice start!


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> Your "mystery plant" looks an awful lot like Mondo grass. If that's the case, it's not aquatic and eventually will just poop out on you. It'd do better in a pot as a houseplant.
> 
> Echinodorus tenellus or Sagittaria would give you a similar look and be suitable for your tank setup, however.


Do you think Blyxa japonica would make for a good alternative for the Mondo Grass? It has a similar look to it and I think that as long as I keep it trimmed it should be ok. Thoughts?


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

mumushummus said:


> cool tank man !!!
> nice start!


Thank you for the kind words.


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## Byron (Aug 20, 2009)

BeachBum2012 said:


> Thats all very good information to know. Thank you very much for that input. I'll do some looking into co2 setups.


I agree with lauraleellbp on the lighting. But before you start thinking CO2...

I'm fairly new on here but everyone will quickly discover that I have a real low-tech thinking when it comes to CO2. You can check out two of my tanks under my name, I have had tanks like this for more than 15 years and never used CO2 and don't ever intend too. I believe it is absolutely not necessary for the majority of plants--not all, but a majority. I also believe that most of them do very well with less light. I have less than one watt of regular (T8) full spectrum over those tanks. Algae is there but not what I would consider a problem, so I believe I must have a balance. And that is my suggestion to you, work toward a balance with your light.

In my opinion you have good light but a tad too much, as lauraleellbp said. While intensity is as important as duration, in this case I would first suggest reducing the light period to see if your algae issues go, and also add nutrients (a balanced, comprehensive liquid fertilizer). Contrary to some thinking, reducing nutrients does not prevent algae, in fact the opposite usually occurs; the plants need nutrients especially in your setup with a bit more light, and giving them the food to grow may well imporove them and reduce your algae issues. It has for me.

I would recommend a blanaced liquid fertilizer like Seachem's Flourish Comprehensive or Kent Freshwater Plant or Nutrafin's Plant-Gro liquid. Some minerals may be present in your water, some come from fish food, some from fish waste; I've had good success with those mentioned. For the plants you have, a liquid will be sufficient.

And I like your aquascape. Those plants will fill in nicely.

Byron.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Thank you very much for that helpful information.

I have already made some adjustments to the lighting. Originally I had the lights on for 12 hours from 9am to 9pm. After a little reading I reduced it to 10 hours from 10am to 8pm. Now, after even more reading I've added a bit of a "siesta" period. Lights are not on from 8am to 1pm, off from 1pm to 4pm and back on again until 9pm. I think this, in combination to dosing excel and flourish has helped. The algae is already starting to turn white and I'm not seeing a lot of new hair growth. The new Ottos are also doing a great job on the rest of the algae too, and its only the first day.

I'll look into the Comprehensive as well.

Thanks again for the tips and info.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Update and a question:

Things seem to be going very well. Plants are growing, algae is nearly gone, fish are doing well and my 20 new RCS are happy and starting to color back up already. Two are even saddled. The Mondo Grass is also being taken out and replaced with an aquatic plant (thanks for the heads up) that I hope will do well in that corner.

The question I have is about the left rear corner. The way I have the driftwood positioned there is a big empty space back there. I've tried moving the wood around but can't find anything that looks better. Question is, what do you fine folks think I should do back there? Its in the shade of the wood so it doesn't get much light. Is there a plant that would grow back there? Any other idea of what to do with the space?

Thanks,
Brian


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## Byron (Aug 20, 2009)

BeachBum2012 said:


> Update and a question:
> 
> Things seem to be going very well. Plants are growing, algae is nearly gone, fish are doing well and my 20 new RCS are happy and starting to color back up already. Two are even saddled. The Mondo Grass is also being taken out and replaced with an aquatic plant (thanks for the heads up) that I hope will do well in that corner.
> 
> ...


One idea comes to me, you could find a small piece of wood or rock and attach an Anubias nana to it. Anubias thrives in shade, grows slowly, and the green behind the large wood would look quite nice I think. B.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Byron said:


> One idea comes to me, you could find a small piece of wood or rock and attach an Anubias nana to it. Anubias thrives in shade, grows slowly, and the green behind the large wood would look quite nice I think. B.


Sweet. I've got a couple of rocks back there now. I'll give the anubias a shot back there and see where it goes. Thanks again for the help.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

You might also try a Cryptocoryne back there.

CO2 can definitely increase the number of species that can be kept in planted tanks, but it's certainly possible to have a very nice planted tank without CO2.

I do think that too many people are of the mentality that "more is always better" when it comes to light. Planted tanks are about finding and maintaining balance between light and nutrient supply- and the more light, often the more difficult it is to find that balance. Under lower light, nutrient demand (including that for CO2) is much less.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> You might also try a Cryptocoryne back there.
> 
> CO2 can definitely increase the number of species that can be kept in planted tanks, but it's certainly possible to have a very nice planted tank without CO2.
> 
> I do think that too many people are of the mentality that "more is always better" when it comes to light. Planted tanks are about finding and maintaining balance between light and nutrient supply- and the more light, often the more difficult it is to find that balance. Under lower light, nutrient demand (including that for CO2) is much less.


Oooo. The Red Cryptocoryne looka really cool. I'll have to decide between that and another Anubius.

I'm still leaning towards CO2 at some point. I'm having so much fun with this I don't see me going on for too long without it. Just have to save up some money. I have a lot of the equipment already but... its for my beer. I might be able to find some of my beer making friends with extras that I can pick up for cheep though. I've seen some awesome setups here and on SCAPE that I'd love to try that would require CO2 anyhow.

Thanks again for the info and advice. Most helpful.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Almost forgot. I took some photos this morning.









FTS









New RCS









Another new RCS









I have no idea how I did this. I think I left the flash on but my hand was covering it. Odd huh?

Sorry for the bad photography skills. One of these days I'll learn how to use a camera.


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## Matthew Gabrielse (Jan 23, 2010)

I would move a lot of those plants in the middle to the outer edges of the tank, it looks messy and a little confusing. Maybe pick up some twigs and place them in a manner that makes them look like a part of that driftwood.

Overall, its a decent start.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Quick update while The Who suck the life out of the Super Bowl.

FTS:









Added some new plants and the shrimp are doing great. Half a dozen or so are saddled now. I'm really enjoying my setup so far.














































Hope you guys like it


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Looking good!


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> Looking good!


Thanks. I'm really liking it right now. Can't wait for the Red Ludwigia to fill in the background the rest of the way. Thinking of dosing some iron to get the red to really pop.


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## thewesterngate (Jan 22, 2010)

Beautiful.  I love the flat-rock cave.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

thewesterngate said:


> Beautiful.  I love the flat-rock cave.


Thanks. That was a fun little project. Easy to do.


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## Kamivy (Jan 3, 2010)

That's filling in really quickly, great progress!


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## webgirl74 (Dec 2, 2009)

Looks great and it's making nice progress since you started posting. I would get rid of that flat rock though on the left hand side. Unless you're planning to tie some moss to it or something, it's not really adding anything to the landscape. I would also maybe add something with more height in the background, either in the form of plants or maybe a nice branching piece of manzanita wood. Also, that plant in the back right corner with the red on top seems to have been sort of scraggly looking from the get-go. I'd maybe replace that with a bacopa or something that would fill in that space a bit better. Other than that, looks wonderful!


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

webgirl74 said:


> Looks great and it's making nice progress since you started posting. I would get rid of that flat rock though on the left hand side. Unless you're planning to tie some moss to it or something, it's not really adding anything to the landscape. I would also maybe add something with more height in the background, either in the form of plants or maybe a nice branching piece of manzanita wood. Also, that plant in the back right corner with the red on top seems to have been sort of scraggly looking from the get-go. I'd maybe replace that with a bacopa or something that would fill in that space a bit better. Other than that, looks wonderful!


Thanks for the ideas and advice. I've been thinking about removing that rock for a while. Just haven't remembered to do it while my arm is in the tank.

As for the background, the Red Lugwigia that is back there should fill in to the top. It was nearly there but I cut it down and replanted to get more width out of it. I'd guess it'll be breading the top again in a few weeks.

Agree about the back right. I like those little plants but they aren't doing much. I may just fill in back there with the Blxya or find something else short and leafy to plant around the base.

Thanks again for taking a look and for the advice.


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## AesopRocks247 (Jan 15, 2010)

man i want some RCS and cardinal tetras.


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

AesopRocks247 said:


> man i want some RCS and cardinal tetras.


roud: They've been fairly inexpensive and easy to care for thus far. I say go for it!


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Just a quick update and a bad pic. Tank seems to be doing quite well. Tons of growth but I seem to be fighting hair algae again. It looks like I've got it on the run but its some resilient stuff.

Here is what it looks like now with the growth and new plants from Sunday's meeting.


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## Byron (Aug 20, 2009)

If you reduced the light intensity hair algae would be a loser. Light should be the limiting factor and the plants will outcompete the algae always.


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## llllshaunllll (Apr 30, 2008)

BeachBum2012 said:


> 17g Low Tech setup end of December '09
> 
> Coralife F/W T-5 Aqualight Double Strip Light with one colormax full spectrum and one 6500k bulb (28w total)
> Black Tahitian Moon Sand (inert)
> ...


Nice tank mate !! roud:


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## BeachBum2012 (Jan 16, 2010)

Byron said:


> If you reduced the light intensity hair algae would be a loser. Light should be the limiting factor and the plants will outcompete the algae always.


Looking at the tank I'm down to my last few strands of hair algae. I did reduce the lighting schedule to 8 hours a little over a week ago and it seems to have helped along with a few other things.

Thanks


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