# Best type of co2 needle valve?



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

We may not be speaking the same terms. I find all needle valves need to be inline to control the flow? 
So moving on to what I think makes a good needle valve, there are some basic ideas that all good needle valves have in common. To me the simple way to think of needle valves is like a hole with a finger stuck in it to control the flow by making the hole bigger of smaller. What makes a needle valve good is partly how sharp that finger is and how large the hole. A hole too big or a needle too stubby and you can't really control the size of the opening with precision. Some other things are the threads that move the needle forward or back. If they are too course the smallest of turns will move the needle too far. The better valves will have some drag to the adjustments movement to keep it from turning almost by itself when there is any vibration. 
For our use, the better needle valves will have tiny openings, really sharply tapered needles and won't change or "float". 
I don't know the one you picture and would want to look at some specs to decide but in general, I don't find many of that type to fit what I call good. Possible it would work but I doubt there would be much precision. Guessing I would say the length is too short for a long tapered needle and it would be very difficult to adjust to the fine degree we like. 
But purely guessing, not based on reading specs or using the type. Can't always judge a book by the cover.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

PlantedRich said:


> We may not be speaking the same terms. I find all needle valves need to be inline to control the flow?


I believe Aquariumnotfishtank was referring to "in line" meaning not mounted to the regulator setup with fittings, but connected via airline tubing, as pictured.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

What is your budget? There is a Swagelok SS-4MG on fleabay for $44 (you can bargain). It's an inline needle valve. It will work for your application. Btw if the needle moves, just tape its knob.


-Alan


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Darkblade48 said:


> I believe Aquariumnotfishtank was referring to "in line" meaning not mounted to the regulator setup with fittings, but connected via airline tubing, as pictured.


Yes. Agree that was likely what they meant. There is probably some term like remote mounted or something to indicate that it is not hard plumbed to the other items but I'm not thinking of any term I've seen used. 
Language should be simple but it isn't so I just wanted to note that what I was thinking might be different than what they were thinking. 
Forums would serve little purpose if not to discuss different lines of thinking.


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## klibs (May 1, 2014)

I got an IDEAL valve for like $70-ish bucks and am very happy with it. Far superior to the Fabco valve I replaced.


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## flight50 (Apr 17, 2012)

You can't have best and cheap together. Its either or for the most part. With that said, I am completely satisfied with my Pneumadyne $11 valves. They are actually listed within the "building a regulator" stickies. I have a couple of CO2 manifolds that I build as I did not want to spend $50+ a pop on valves. Pneumadyne valves fit the bill for me. Are they perfect, nope, do they have fine tuning like Ideal, Swagelok, Hoke, etc, nope. Do they work. Absolutely. I have been using them since this past May when I built my first CO2 manifold. I made another later this past summer using the same parts. You can see them in my DIY link in my signature. Once you get a setting you like, just tighten down the little set screw. They don't float so you will be okay. They met my expectations and I will be purchasing more if that says anything. Now if you only need one or perhaps (2) valves, save up and get a good one. Other wise, the Pneumadyne may work for you as well.


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