# Need help with my tank



## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Really you only need to cut down on the light.
Screen wire/fiberglass type cut it by about 30% or you can raise it.
Less hrs does almost the same thing.
What size tank is it ?
And a whole tank picture will help.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

75g tank. How long should I leave the lights on to make my tank low tech? Do I need to dose anything?


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## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

I used to have the lights at 10 hours, but they were very weak lights. Now my lights are for 7 hours and I reduced the intensity of my tank. See below for specs. How high is the tank?

I was told that you can't go below 6 hours. I'd start at 8, and reduce the intensity of the lights. It's kind of a trial and error thing - go slow with changes (except intensity, assuming it's way too high) and see how the plants respond.

I started using 1/2 Estimated Index for ferts sometime in the winter. The plants seem to grow faster.

My best guess for you is to get the lights dialed in and start fertilizing. Dry ferts are much cheaper than liquid. Some members sell it here.

If you do EI, 50% water change weekly.

Good luck with it!


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## Mariostg (Sep 6, 2014)

The link you provided does not work for me. But in anycase, I have a 75 gal with 48" Fluval full spectrum LED. No CO2. I have an amazon sword too and it's doing very fine. Something must be out of balance. As Raymond S. mentionned, a picture or two would help.


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## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

Chaos2611 said:


> Can anyone tell me how to fix my tank?
> I have like a mix of high tech and low tech going on in there.
> For plants, I have radicans, swords, swarf saggitaria, java, and anubias.
> For lights I use this:http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GH9HURE
> ...


Didn't work for me either - broken link.

A 75 gallon tank is too big for DIY CO2. If you're growing plants in the tank, you need to keep the right amount of fertilizer for the amount of water in the tank, plus Root Tabs for the Swords and other heavy root feeders. Unfortunately I don't know about Radicans, but the remaining plants are leaf feeders or are certainly not root feeders.

I would like to see a picture too. It doesn't sound like anything's too far out of whack, except maybe the light's too intense. Do you have any algae? If there are any shadows on the substrate, I tried looking at how well-defined they are. Supposedly the more defined the shadow, the stronger the light source. You can always check it out while you're setting up your light.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Django said:


> I used to have the lights at 10 hours, but they were very weak lights. Now my lights are for 7 hours and I reduced the intensity of my tank. See below for specs. How high is the tank?
> 
> I was told that you can't go below 6 hours. I'd start at 8, and reduce the intensity of the lights. It's kind of a trial and error thing - go slow with changes (except intensity, assuming it's way too high) and see how the plants respond.
> 
> ...


What do you mean how high is the tank? How do i reduce the intensity of the light? There is no "dial" for it.

Bump: http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Planted-Aquarium-Moonlights/dp/B00GH9HSC6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1429580438&sr=1-1&keywords=Finnex+FugeRay+Planted%2B+Aquarium+LED+Light+Plus+Moonlights


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

The dark spots are made by putting a piece of colored plastic directly under the lightslights. This is done for my anubias, and java fern.
There are diatoms on my crypts, swords.
I have green colored algae on my rocks and decorations.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

How many hrs is the light on for ?
You can have lower hrs and still view it if you start the light at 1P.M. till 8P.M.
for example.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

The light is on for about 8 hours before. Now i removed the diy co2. And changed thelighting period to 7. Should i add eco complete to the bottom of my tank so it covers the white gravel.
The mixed colored gravel was old and before i had a planted tank.
I dont want to tear this tank down and rebuild since that will mess up my nitrogen cycle. 
So how should i make my tank low tank without spending a fortune and redoing everything?
Thanks for the help!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Once you took out the CO2 it already is low tech.
The color of the sub is just personal preference. If you sprinkle a hand full each day till it's covered it won't mess up the cycle. Maybe skip a day in between each hand full.
More then anything else you could use some more plants. Do it slowly without rushing it.
I'd use simple plants. Like go out from the left end 3" and 4" from the back and plant one regular(not the Oak Leaf) Water Sprite and meanwhile start looking at the pictures in the gallery for plants that you like the way they look. But do read up on any you pick or you will spend money on plants that need things your tank doesn't have.
Like getting a Crypt Balansae which can get 30" tall.


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## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

I was asking about how tall the tank is. The taller the tank, the more the light dissipates before it gets to the substrate. It doesn't look like that's your problem, though. I've found that if the light is too high the plants don't grow very much. But that's just my experience and it could just as easily been lack of nutrients. The plants are doing well with my lighting raised a considerable amount. They are strong lights. If your light had a dimmer switch on it, it would be easy to adjust the light intensity without physically moving the light.

You can use the method Raymond S. suggested, using fiberglas window screen under the light. I'm pretty sure he mentioned it.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

So I need to use fiberglass on the lights to make the tank low tech? Should I dose any supplementation? 
Right now my sword leaves are quite pale and translucent


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

If I use fiber glass, how long should my lights be left on for? 
Is it better to use fiber glass or just lowering the hours of light


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## shloken38 (Aug 17, 2012)

High tech vs. low tech is relative....don't bother with those terms. But you are low tech at the moment. You need to find the correct balance, which can only be achieved through trial and error. Try placing the screen over the tank and leave the lights on for 7 hours. All of this takes time, so you will have to give it a week or more before you start seeing results. I would suggest dosing Excel to help, but that can get costly with a 75g.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

I don't want to dose carbon or use pressurized co2. Thats just too expensive for me. Should I add ferts to it?
Is it true that adding ferts when you have algae will only increase the algae and not help the plants?


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Also, doesnt radican and swords need high light? As well as dwarf sag?
Will the fiber glass kill the plant by not giving them enough light? 
And this fiber glass?http://m.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-3-in-x-150-ft-Fiberglass-Weave-FGW3/100140762/


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## leemacnyc (Dec 28, 2005)

Chaos2611 said:


> Is it true that adding ferts when you have algae will only increase the algae and not help the plants?


No that is not a universally correct statement. Sometimes it is just the opposite. Every tank is different and there are many factors at play here. The first thing I would do is increase your plant mass. The desired effect is that you want the plants to starve the algae basically.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

How do I expand the plant mass?


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Like adding plants? How many more? Which plants?


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## leemacnyc (Dec 28, 2005)

Yes, you should get more plants. Go to town! Get whatever suits your fancy. It's basically trial and error.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

I heard swords need 12 hours of light. Should i increase my lighting? 
Should i add excel as well?
I currently have green algae on decor and diatom on swords, and crpyts.
What is your advice on that?
Should i still use fiberglass to cover the light?

See, my anubias and java have conflicting desires with my sword.
What should i do?


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## leemacnyc (Dec 28, 2005)

You heard wrong. Try adding considerably more plants to the tank and shorten the duration of light. Maybe 7 hrs. total. 

Each time you change a variable (light, ferts, Co2) you need a few weeks to see how they affect the tank.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

I thought diatoms were due to low light? Since there are diatoms on my plants, doesn't that mean I should increase the light


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Okay I put the fiber glass under the light. The aquarium became quite dark. I doubled layered the fiber glass mat, shown in image one


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## Mariostg (Sep 6, 2014)

You need more plants as it has been suggested. Look at other setups to inspire you. Basically you can't have too many... Look at my signature.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Guys, should i single layer or double layer the fiberglass?


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## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

One layer is about 1/3 reduction, two layers about 2/3. I would do one and see how it works. But I like a lot of light


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## DHElder (Apr 18, 2015)

Chaos2611 said:


> 75g tank. How long should I leave the lights on to make my tank low tech? Do I need to dose anything?


New to all this so take it with a grain of salt but this is another way you could run your lights. The break in between is to allow CO2 to build back up. Also allows you another to have the lights up on tank when home from work.

Quote is from this website: http://www.theaquariumwiki.com/Walstad_method



> Diana recommends a mid-day siesta [1], and uses a 5 hour on, 4 hours off, 5 hours on photoperiod on her own tanks. The dark period allows CO2 levels to rise which promotes plant growth and inhibits algae growth.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

I've heard of that elder, but i've also heard that you shouldnt have 2 separate periods. So anyone have anything to say about this?

Bump:


Django said:


> One layer is about 1/3 reduction, two layers about 2/3. I would do one and see how it works. But I like a lot of light


Would one be too bright for my anubias?
Also how long should i leave my lights on?


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## HDBenson (Jan 26, 2015)

In a low-tech tank(where CO2 is usually in the shortest supply) a siesta period is one of the best things you can do to increase available CO2. If you are utilizing Tom Barr's low-tech method the entire photoperiod is only about six hours - this also includes very, very reduced EI dosing. If you aren't supplementing Carbon(liquid or, injected) or trace ferts(other than what comes from fish waste/food) I would suggest about 7-8 hour straight photoperiod or, a siesta.

If you are worried about the Anubias getting TOO much light then tuck it away under a larger plant like a sword. Swords do love higher lighting but do very well under moderate light as well. I think the one layer should be fine. And, I also suggest a lot more plants. The more the merrier. Get some stem plants, Hygrophilas, Ludwigias, Rotalas, Bacopas. Maybe even some floating plants. A lot of people on the RAOK board give away large amounts of plants for the cost of shipping. A MUCH better deal than a store or, online store.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Benson, that was very helpful information. Thank you. I actually wanted to add a crypt wenditti to my radican in the back. Ill try one layer, but if the anubias starts getting algae, i think i have to double it.
Right now i dont dose any nutrients or co2.
I plan to dose greenleafaquarium ferts and a form of carbon.
Not sure which carbon yet. Do you have any good recommendations that wont melt plants?

Edit: I was thinking of letting the plant grow and reproduce to get those extra plants. Because getting more plants is pretty expensive. Like how many would i need?


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## HDBenson (Jan 26, 2015)

Cryptocoryne have a predisposition to melting with drastic changes in their given system. Regardless of whether you use Excel or, CO2 Booster there will likely be a melting of Cryptocoryne. Now, if you start out with a low dosage this may be avoided. Mine melted bc I jumped in with a 5ml dose the very first time. After dialing it back down to about 1ml per dose they recovered in a few weeks(like three). If the plants aren't healthy then you may not have any to propagate. Buying plants at stores or, online can be expensive. But, like I said, getting them from ROAK or the FS section is a great deal! You can get dozens of plants for the price you would pay for one plant at a store/online. And, for the most part, plants you obtain the members here are always in excellent condition! I can't say the same for ones at stores.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Can you provide a link to that?


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## HDBenson (Jan 26, 2015)

Link to what? If you are talking about the For Sale and RAOK forums then go to the Planted Tank forums homepage. Then Scroll down and it's right under the Specific Aspects of A Planted Tank subforum.


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

Any recommendation for easy mid ground plant?


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## HDBenson (Jan 26, 2015)

I don't believe in fore, mid, and back ground plants. Just about any plant can get big enough or, be kept small enough to serve in any facet, to an extent. it depends on the tank size. Valisneria is a good option, but I've heard a lot of people say that Excel/Co2 Boost can/do melt Vals. But try Hygrophila species, particularly H. difformis, H. polysperma and, H. Corymbosa. Moneywort(Bacopa sp.) are decent and can flourish in med-low tech environments. Also, a lot of swords species can get big enough to be "mid" or, "back" candidates in larger tanks. I've heard of Blyxa japonica being used in med-low tech tanks but have no personal experience with it. Lysmachia numularia aka Creeping Jenny is nice and does well in moderate lighting. I have this in two tanks right now. It's SUPER bright green almost yellow. You can get it pretty cheap at Lowes in its emersed form(above water form).


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## Chaos2611 (Feb 26, 2015)

I also changed my lighting to 5hr on 4 hr break and 5more hr on


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