# IRON FISH vs Seachem Flourish Iron. What better Iron supplement for planted tank?



## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

I have been researching this and it seem that there are 2 economical solutions to possible having a good iron supplement to the aquarium. 

One of them is a commercial product from Seachem that is 1% iron in a larger bottle design for aquariums. 

The other ones is a slow release iron fish design to add iron to the diet in 3rd world countries in which they cook soup and various food with the iron fish while the fish release small amount of bioavailable iron into the soup or other food. The idea is that if its safe for human use, then it would also be safe for aquarium use. 

What do you guys think? 

Seachem
Flourish Iron - 67.6 oz
67.6 oz. treats up to 400 gallons for 4-6 months.
Iron (Fe) 1.0%

Flourish Iron - 67.6 oz. | That Fish Place


VS

Lucky Iron Fish

"The Lucky Iron Fish is made from natural ferrous iron, which is easily absorbed by the body and is safe." 

...." A Lucky Iron Fish releases low levels of easily absorbed (bioavailable) iron per use. On average it releases 70 µg/g. To put that in perspective iron supplement pills can provide between 60mg-300mg of iron. Because our Lucky Iron Fish releases such a small amount of iron in each use users do not experience negative side effects."


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

Iron is more readily absorbed in pH of 5 -6.5. Our tanks are probably not going to be at that level so I wonder how well any iron fert is absorbed by plants with this in mind. So, the lower your pH, the greater the iron absorption? My thoughts are, higher pH tanks may have issues because of this requirement unless the iron is specifically made to work in the higher pH aquaculture. I wonder if Flourish takes this acidity into account, and if there is a difference in the type of iron in Flourish, and the type available from cooking? I have never really thought about it. 
Another interesting tidbit I copied:
'Acidic foods that have a higher moisture content, such as applesauce and spaghetti sauce, absorb the most iron. For example, one study published in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association found that the iron content in 100 grams of spaghetti sauce jumped from 0.6 mg to 5.7 mg after being cooked in a cast iron pot. Other factors that boost the iron content of foods include longer cooking time, frequent stirring, and using a newer iron skillet.'

Good stuff.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...ert-|-plus-all-my-other-dry-liquid-ferts.html is a very good source for iron in two forms, liquid and dry. Dry is always going to be the best bargain, because you don't pay for water, just the nutrient.


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## chinaboy1021 (May 30, 2003)

Plants need a lot of iron. The newest and most effective way to add iron is cast iron pan. They can be purchased for less than $20. What you want to do is break up the iron pan and put the smaller peices into your filter. 

Flourish Iron is 99.5% water. A cast iron pan is 99.5% iron. It's cheaper in the long run.

Also you can hire an Iron Man.

Up to you though. 

Welcome to the forum though. You'll find tons of knowledgeable members. They will be able to make guesses and assumptions about many things.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

Another Interesting blurb:
https://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/ss555

In certain soil situations, carbonate or sulfide compounds may form with Fe. Commonly in waterlogged situations, ferric iron is reduced to the ferrous state. If sulfates also are abundant in the soil, these become oxygen sources for bacteria and black-colored ferrous sulfide is formed
Where organic matter is present in soils, Fe may be present in its reduced state as Fe++ in the soil solution or adsorbed onto soil particle surfaces. Organic matter in soils plays a major role in the availability of Fe to plants. Biochemical compounds or organic acids (aliphatic acids or amino acids) and complex polymers (humic and fulvic acids) can form soluble complexes with Fe, or act as *chelating agents* and thereby increase Fe availability to plants (chelating agents are organic compounds that complex with Fe and help hold Fe in more soluble forms).


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

My point is, that unless your tank is 6.5 pH or lower, it will be very difficult to get much iron to your plants. The same is true with terrestrial plants. Acidic soils = more iron uptake. Alkaline soils are tough on plants that require more iron. They die.:crying:

The use of RO water, co2, and higher temperatures are all helpful in keeping your tank water the lowest pH possible for the health of the plants.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

The iron fish is no different than a cast iron pan.

If I'm not mistaken, you need to cook with the iron fish, the heat and water will create some free floating iron ions. That's not going to work in your tank. As others have mentioned, acidic water will help in this process.


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

chinaboy1021 said:


> Plants need a lot of iron. The newest and most effective way to add iron is cast iron pan. They can be purchased for less than $20. What you want to do is break up the iron pan and put the smaller peices into your filter.
> 
> Flourish Iron is 99.5% water. A cast iron pan is 99.5% iron. It's cheaper in the long run.
> 
> ...


I like the idea in theory but there is another post about adding cast iron to an aquarium and I though the conclusion is that is was not " bioavailable" and could only provide iron if the roots happen to tap into the iron but if the iron was mixed into the water, the leaves would not be able to absorb the iron? 

Is that not the case? 

I like the idea of adding some iron to the tank and forgetting about it for a year rather then buying all this chemicals and lab equipment. That is going to get you flagged as the next unabomber or something. I read a story of a guy buying some fertilizer at the home depot for his farm and having the men in black showing up at his front door. 

Have you personally tried this cast iron cut up into pieces and places in the filter technique ? 

Thanks. 

P.S. You should only do this with Chinese cast iron not the American made cast iron pans which I think are considered collector items and probably have a rich history.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

SpaceLord said:


> I like the idea of adding some iron to the tank and forgetting about it for a year rather then buying all this chemicals and lab equipment. That is going to get you flagged as the next unabomber or something. I read a story of a guy buying some fertilizer at the home depot for his farm and having the men in black showing up at his front door.


I dose chelated iron to supplement that in the Microplex that I also dose. My "lab equipment" consists of a set of measuring spoons, from the kitchen drawer, a dosing bottle, which measures out one ounce portions for me, Fertilizer Dispenser | 500 mL (16 oz) | Green Leaf Aquariums and a cardboard funnel I made to make it easy to dump powder into the dosing bottle.


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## RyRob (May 30, 2015)

If cast iron worked for our purposes, there wouldn't be any debate now. I'd rather buy a pound of chelated iron and make a solution or dry dose directly than rely on an iron fish made to supplement malnourished 3rd world societies. It might be fun as an experiment but I don't see any benefits of putting cookwear in our tanks for the sake of plant/iron uptake. Also, IMO using cast iron would just add unnecessary weight and water volume decrease.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

cut and past a cut an past.................... 


> Now, this relationship between oxygen and iron isn’t a full time thing. In reality iron is flitting between ferrous and ferric states, but the dominant state in high pH and oxidized environments is ferric- and this means that your plants cannot take it up.
> These details important because they dictate how we examine the solutions.
> Many practitioners throw rusty iron items into their systems falsely assuming that this will supplement system iron.
> 
> ...


Understanding Iron in Aquaponics


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

Look for substrate with iron in it or I guess little bits of iron ore in your substrate. Plant roots can access this because it's usually more acidic in the substrate due to bacterial activities.


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## chinaboy1021 (May 30, 2003)

I think we all agree on something. If you're ph is exactly 6.5, your fish will turn into iron. It will absorb the iron in your water. Meanwhile, your plants will turn into iron fish.


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

This thread has gotten entirely too silly.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

It is turning into a diet and exercise thread: Cook the iron fish as part of the diet, and break up cast iron pans for exercise.


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## mredman (Sep 4, 2015)

*Fe*

Why is it that Iron Man of Marvel fame is so popular but Ferro Lad from DC is virtually unknown?

Does Iron Man have a more magnetic personality?

Mike


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

mistergreen said:


> The iron fish is no different than a cast iron pan.
> 
> If I'm not mistaken, you need to cook with the iron fish, the heat and water will create some free floating iron ions. That's not going to work in your tank. As others have mentioned, acidic water will help in this process.



1. I think its different than cast iron because "The Lucky Iron Fish is made from natural ferrous iron, which is easily absorbed by the body and is safe" where as the cast iron is perhaps made from a different iron I think?( can anyone confirm this?) 

2. The website does say that it works better in acid environments and suggest adding lemon to the water but does that mean it does not work at all in normal situation? I think they suggest that because they are trying to give a high dose of iron with looking for like 10 minutes. If the fish releases less iron in a fish tank environment but is in 24/7, perhaps that will be enough to add a constantly supply for the plants that you would otherwise not have. I'm not sure. Perhaps I could ask the iron fish people. 

3. I have eco-complete and I believe the lava rocks are suppose to absorb minerals from the water and make them available to the roots of the plants. I wonder if this would hold true for Iron as well?

Thanks.


P.S. ON the fish website FAQ , it said "Why not use cast iron plan" answer: Cooking in iron pots releases iron but it is difficult to quantify the amount of iron that is released and whether or not that iron is bioavailable (can be absorbed by the body). Iron skillets tend to rust and rust is ferric iron which cannot be absorbed by the body. To prevent the iron skillet from rusting you usually “seal” the pan by heating it at high temperatures with oil. In “sealing” the pan, you actually block the release of iron during cooking.
The fish is made from a particular type of iron and its shape, size and weight are calculated to release about 70 micrograms of iron per gram after boiling for 10 minutes in a litre of acidified water (or about half that in soup). However, if you put leafy greens in soups like spinach then the efficacy of the fish will be reduced. For optimal results we suggest boiling drinking water with the fish and lemon, or citric acid." 

Sound like it will work but not as well if there is not enough acid and I don't really understand the cast iron answer. Its seem to imply its made out of a different type of iron which may or may not be bioavailable?


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## Nordic (Nov 11, 2003)

I found the most useful tip in the thread was @AWolf with the cooking spaghetti in CI. We eat quite a bit of it, due to how easy it is to make and how lazy I can be. My wife and daughter bot need iron supplements, they are both a little low on iron. You know those white people who are white even after they get in the sun.... that's them.


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

mredman said:


> Why is it that Iron Man of Marvel fame is so popular but Ferro Lad from DC is virtually unknown?
> 
> Does Iron Man have a more magnetic personality?
> 
> Mike


I know that generally marvel comic books have much more popular characters than DC with the exception of a few core DC characters( Batman, Superman,etc... basically the justice league) 

Marvel comic book followed more of a structure and common universe whereas some of those DC comic books are really strange and random. 

I have actually never heard of Ferro Lad but the fact that it has the word "LAD" in it is kind of an immediately turn off. I kind of think of a shoe shine boy that you throw a shiny nickel to and say " here you go lad, top of the morning to ya" as you tip your hat. 

If you want to go into comparison between Iron man and closely related superheros, why is Iron man more popular than War Machine who is just a different color version of Iron man(Gray vs Red) with a mini gun on the shoulder. Why does he not have has own comic book and movies?


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

I think this article offered by jeffkrol
answers all of the questions in this thread, and explains why adding an iron fish would be the least effective method off supplying iron to your aquarium plants:
Understanding Iron in Aquaponics


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## RWaters (Nov 12, 2003)

SpaceLord said:


> I have actually never heard of Ferro Lad but the fact that it has the word "LAD" in it is kind of an immediately turn off. I kind of think of a shoe shine boy that you throw a shiny nickel to and say " here you go lad, top of the morning to ya" as you tip your hat.



I was thinking the same thing but love the way you worded it! Thanks for the chuckle!


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Iron is an element, neither ferrous nor ferric. Cast iron is almost all iron, with a few percent of silicon and carbon mixed in. So, it is also neither ferrous nor ferric. Only iron in compounds can be ferrous or ferric, and that usually refers to iron oxide only. The iron fish is most likely a scam. (Just my opinion, of course.)


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

Hoppy said:


> Iron is an element, neither ferrous nor ferric. Cast iron is almost all iron, with a few percent of silicon and carbon mixed in. So, it is also neither ferrous nor ferric. Only iron in compounds can be ferrous or ferric, and that usually refers to iron oxide only. The iron fish is most likely a scam. (Just my opinion, of course.)


A charity being a scam! Blasphemy . Now I've hard everything. 

You are saying that it can't be made from natural ferrous iron only iron? 

My friend told me that a majority so charities are actually scams. 

If this "charity" is a scam, should the officials be alerted to investigate because they have claimed they sold 100,000 fish at $25 a fish. $2.5 million dollars. 

I am sure some industry expert with a degree in chemistry should be able to figure this out rather quickly. 

I really hate scams. 

So why is Flourish Iron Aquarium Plant Food Supplement, leaf zone, and the various wet/dry iron products told by members on this forum legit whereas the iron fish being a scam? 

They claim they have " Iron" as the active ingredient, such as Liquid iron(mixed with water), iron power, etc.... Why make their iron bioavailable if Iron is either ferrous nor ferric and all depends on PH balance,etc..?

Ok, so lets say I take an Iron fish and put it in a gallon of water and API PH down(sulfuric acid) and keep it there for a few days then dump the gallon solution into the aquarium. Would that work?


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

SpaceLord said:


> A charity being a scam! Blasphemy . Now I've hard everything.
> 
> You are saying that it can't be made from natural ferrous iron only iron?
> 
> ...


People who have studied chemistry fairly recently, or metallurgy perhaps, could probably easily answer our questions about ferric/ferrous iron, and the iron fish. I'm not one of those people. *HELP*


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

Hoppy said:


> People who have studied chemistry fairly recently, or metallurgy perhaps, could probably easily answer our questions about ferric/ferrous iron, and the iron fish. I'm not one of those people. *HELP*


So, if you are looking to purchase fertilizer in bulk, lab equipment, and asking about chemistry and chemical reactions online, how much do you want to bet that your information is trigger red flags down at the NSA right now? 

I just registered for a chemistry forum but failed the bot check because I could not name the element for the abbreviation they gave me. 

I will ask them some of these questions and post if I get any answers. 

I am particular interested if you have the lucky iron fish with PH down(acid solution) to create some bioavailable iron solution. 

Thanks.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

http://chemistry.stackexchange.com/


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

SpaceLord said:


> So, if you are looking to purchase fertilizer in bulk, lab equipment, and asking about chemistry and chemical reactions online, how much do you want to bet that your information is trigger red flags down at the NSA right now?


The only thing I have noticed is the two guys in black suits and sunglasses who always seem to be behind me when I'm driving.:wink2:


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## RyRob (May 30, 2015)

Aykroyd and Belushi?


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## thejoe (May 23, 2013)

If one of the men behind you is Belushi, you are in trouble!


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

AWolf said:


> I think this article offered by jeffkrol
> answers all of the questions in this thread, and explains why adding an iron fish would be the least effective method off supplying iron to your aquarium plants:
> Understanding Iron in Aquaponics


Lucky Iron Fish is made from ferrous iron(the good iron) however are you saying that as soon as it enters the aquarium environment, it will instantly turn into the bad iron type? 

Thanks. 



background information
*
GOOD IRON*
ferrous iron
Bioavailable
Soluable
F++
low to no oxygen and low PH(Acid) environment. 

*BAD IRON*
Ferric Iron 
not bioavailable
insoluble
F+++ 
exist mostly in oxygen and low acid(high PH) environment.

* chelating agents: Magic formula that turns allows plants to use the bad iron or turns the bad iron into good iron? EDTA(Toxic don't use) , DTPA, EDDHA


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

SpaceLord said:


> Lucky Iron Fish is made from ferrous iron(the good iron) however are you saying that as soon as it enters the aquarium environment, it will instantly turn into the bad iron type?
> 
> Thanks.


Yes, I have to dust off my chemistry books, but it appears hydroxyl ions in our tank water will give up an oxygen to the ferrous iron, and it will immediately become ferric iron, turning it that 'orangie-sh' color. The only way to keep that from happening is to have acidic water, 5.0 - 6.5 pH. Then the iron will be available to the plants. Iron is always in between ferrous and ferric, in a way, because by oxidizing whether in water (by hydroxyl ions) or in the air, its outer surface is changing. It is this 'rusting', oxidizing bond, that keeps it from being available to plants. A chelating bond is what makes it available for plant uptake.

So if you use the iron fish, then you need 5.0 - 6.5 pH, or, you need to create a chelated bond with the ferrous iron fish, which is already done by chemists for agricultural fertilization purposes, and you can buy it already made.

This is the best interpretation from my research on the subject. I could be wrong. I'd love to be wrong! Because getting iron to the plants by just throwing some ferrous iron in once or twice a year would be great! But I am afraid that isn't the case.


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

AWolf said:


> Yes, I have to dust off my chemistry books, but it appears hydroxyl ions in our tank water will give up an oxygen to the ferrous iron, and it will immediately become ferric iron, turning it that 'orangie-sh' color. The only way to keep that from happening is to have acidic water, 5.0 - 6.5 pH. Then the iron will be available to the plants. Iron is always in between ferrous and ferric, in a way, because by oxidizing whether in water (by hydroxyl ions) or in the air, its outer surface is changing. It is this 'rusting', oxidizing bond, that keeps it from being available to plants. A chelating bond is what makes it available for plant uptake.
> 
> So if you use the iron fish, then you need 5.0 - 6.5 pH, or, you need to create a chelated bond with the ferrous iron fish, which is already done by chemists for agricultural fertilization purposes, and you can buy it already made.
> 
> This is the best interpretation from my research on the subject. I could be wrong. I'd love to be wrong! Because getting iron to the plants by just throwing some ferrous iron in once or twice a year would be great! But I am afraid that isn't the case.


Yeah, that would be the part that I did not understand. If that reaction was instant otherwise, I could make an iron solution by putting cast iron cookware or the lucky iron fish into a mild acid solution then dose the tank. However if that is going to instantly revert into something that is not usable/bioavailable, then you truly would have no choice but to go with the expensive chemistry stuff. 

I wondering if buying for hydroponics would be more economical then buying leafzone or the seachem florish iron product. I think even buying from members on here can be kind of pricy. 

Do you know if the hydroponics stuff is toxic for fish or only if you use the wrong chelating_ agent ? _


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

SpaceLord said:


> Do you know if the hydroponics stuff is toxic for fish or only if you use the wrong chelating_ agent ? _


If you buy hydroponic fertilizers, or any fertilizers not meant for the aquarium, you can get into trouble with algae and fish illness/death. Not to mention the copper in fertilizers that can kill shrimp. Without going into detail, (You can find tons of info, search PT for fertilizing techniques) it is best to either buy the proper dry forms of nutrients and mix them into a liquid dosage (least expensive), or stick with those ferts made for the hobby. 

Just going to mention that all iron ferts for terrestrial plants are chelated, for the same reasons it needs to be chelated for aquarium plants. Many minerals are chelated, not just iron, to help with plant absorption. You gotta love chemistry! The sciences have really improved our fertilization methods.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

There are several chelated products that are OK for fish. 
Nutritrace CSM+B contains the Fe=EDTA, which many people use. Best used in a low pH tank. It breaks down in alkaline water, and the Fe becomes unavailable.
Fe-DTPA is better in a tank with slightly higher pH (about neutral). 
Fe-EDDHA stays available at higher pH. 
Ferrous gluconate.
If you dose more often, then even the less stable forms of iron may remain available well enough for the plants. 
You can dose a blend of these, and have more of a range of available iron forms.


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## SpaceLord (Feb 29, 2016)

AWolf said:


> If you buy hydroponic fertilizers, or any fertilizers not meant for the aquarium, you can get into trouble with algae and fish illness/death. Not to mention the copper in fertilizers that can kill shrimp. Without going into detail, (You can find tons of info, search PT for fertilizing techniques) it is best to either buy the proper dry forms of nutrients and mix them into a liquid dosage (least expensive), or stick with those ferts made for the hobby.
> 
> Just going to mention that all iron ferts for terrestrial plants are chelated, for the same reasons it needs to be chelated for aquarium plants. Many minerals are chelated, not just iron, to help with plant absorption. You gotta love chemistry! The sciences have really improved our fertilization methods.


Can you recommend a particular product on one of these " just add water" deals? This Iron chemistry thing has really gotten over my head.


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## Nordic (Nov 11, 2003)

I am still trying to get my head around Tetra Plantamin. It claims to provide iron for the whole month, as that is the dosing schedule with it.

It seems to work, had lots of trouble at first keeping my elodea alive without it going glassy and rotting away until I started using it

This hobby is always full of surprises, my nano tank which has been off the CO2 for 2 weeks still pearls under light. Maybe it is the peat I put in the substrate.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

> Can you recommend a particular product on one of these " just add water" deals?


Go back to page 1 of this thread, post #3. Click on the link. Nilocg sells these fertilizers.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

SpaceLord said:


> Can you recommend a particular product on one of these " just add water" deals? This Iron chemistry thing has really gotten over my head.



I have saved the following post for times like this. I apologize to the original poster for not remembering who you are and giving you due mention! Good stuff: 

'You can dose just 3 dry chemicals and have a complete menu of nutrients for the plants. Dose potassium nitrate (KNO3) for potassium and nitrogen, mono potassium phosphate (KH2PO4) for phosphorous and a tiny bit more potassium, and a trace element mix of which CSM+B is the most available and cheapest. Then go to http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/11-fertilizers-water-parameters/fe...-regimes_.html where you find, in the first post:
40~60gal
50% H20 change-weekly
1/2 Tsp-KN03 3x a week
1/8 Tsp-KH2P04 3x a week
3/4 Tsp-GH booster once a week
1/8Tsp-Trace 3x a week

Follow that schedule and you have a well fertilized planted tank. You can buy the dry chemicals from: Planted Aquarium Fertilizer - Home or Greenleaf Aquariums.'


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

I do not have the conventional planted tank. I keep the 'Un-Planted' tank. For this reason, I can never recommend anything for planted tanks regarding fertilizers because I pull my plants out of the tank when they look yellowish or small from lack of nitrates, iron or other minerals that 'weekly Leaf Zone' type products do not accomplish, and put them in a hydroponics solution for a few days under the sun outside if it is warm enough, or in a 'grow out' tank in the house during winter. I just don't want to change 50% water every week, and play dose-e-dose. :} For this reason I don't have algae 'problems' (I still get green algae in some amounts, easily wiped clean and filtered out with a diatom filter) in my tanks, and can do thorough cleanings, top to bottom, of my tanks monthly or every two months. 
So my tanks only get the weekly Leaf Zone or Aqueon Plant Food ferts: Nitrogen, Phosphorous and Potassium. (Sometimes only twice a month depending on how the plants look.) I only add water to the tanks as it evaporates, or when I vacuum the bottom.
For trace and mineral supplementation I use a hydroponics mix A-B (Two Bottles) A = Macro nutrients, B = Micro, about once every month or two months, give or take, depending again on how much yellowing and smaller leaf growth I'm getting in the tanks. This is done outside of my fish tanks in a grow out tank. And yes, algae grows like crazy in that container! It's a 60 gallon? plastic storage container. I clean it out completely after fertilizing.
My reasoning behind this method is twofold:
1. There are nutrients from the fish waste so I don't want to add more unless necessary
2. I'm lazy and don't want to do that much work on my tanks, but would rather play with rearranging plantings and experimenting with plants and fish, but I still want a beautiful tank.

:bounce:


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## CowBoYReX (Nov 30, 2013)

AWolf said:


> I think this article offered by jeffkrol
> answers all of the questions in this thread, and explains why adding an iron fish would be the least effective method off supplying iron to your aquarium plants:
> Understanding Iron in Aquaponics


I have a question maybe @jeffkrol can answer. In this article it says plants have been, for a long time, using different methods of binding ferric iron and turning it into useful ferrous iron. If that is the case then shouldn't adding ferric iron to the reservoir still be beneficial? Albeit not ideal, because it makes the plants work(use energy) to convert it, but in high ph systems and aerobic environments where most of the iron uptake is probably from these plants improvised ways of getting iron to start with wouldn't we be adding to the "available" ferric iron for conversion?


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## tapwater (Mar 31, 2016)

Saw a guy on the internet roll small balls of red clay, let them dry, then popped them into substrate. (All red clay contains iron (Fe2O3)) Apparently plants absorb most of their iron from the roots.


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## CowBoYReX (Nov 30, 2013)

tapwater said:


> Saw a guy on the internet roll small balls of red clay, let them dry, then popped them into substrate. (All red clay contains iron (Fe2O3)) Apparently plants absorb most of their iron from the roots.


That follows with what I was asking. Fe2O3 being ferric iron and the plants are benefiting from the clay like the balls or turface etc.


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