# Sticky  Beginners Guide to Aquarium Photography



## Chlorophile

Please post any typos, critiques, comments, corrections, etc. 
As well as if you disagree with something I've said - I will be more than happy to put both sides to the story on the matter in the original post.


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## zainey_04

A lot of good information. Good job!


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## GraphicGr8s

The zoom lens is by design variable. It is called just a "Zoom" lens. Variable would refer more to those zooms that have a variable aperture at different focal lengths. A fixed zoom retains the same aperture throughout its range. Zooms can vary between wide angle to barely telephoto and then full telephoto. ie 15-55 is generally a wide angle to "normal" 100-300 is telephoto zoom range.
Many zooms also have a macro feature. Some are better than others. But will do if a prime macro is unavailable.
A telephoto lens usually denotes a prime lens in the 100mm and up category.
A wide angle is generally under 35mm
A "normal" lens is generally 50-55mm but some photogs consider a 70mm normal for portraiture.
A prime lens is any fixed focal length lens and are generally considered better quality than a zoom because they are better quality.
DOF refers to the range (distance) in front of and behind the actual focal point that is still in focus. Lenses in general will have a shorter DOF in front of the focal point and more behind it. This of course is shortened with a larger opening.

FOV. Field of view. If a camera is a "cropped" sensor the field of view of the sensor is less than a full 35mm film frame. Lenses made for FF or 35mm (on certain systems) will work on a cropped sensor. A lens designed for the cropped sensor will usually cause vignetting on a FF camera. A cropped sensor gives the illusion of a longer focal length lens but in reality you're just capturing less then what the lens is capable of.

Tripods. Buy a good tripod. A cheap unsteady tripod is worse than no tripod at all.

In digital it is noise. Grain is for film.

There are 3 diseases aquarium photographers are prone to. MTS, LBA and last but not least CBA. It is recommended to avoid these at all costs. Interventions rarely work.


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## Chlorophile

GraphicGr8s said:


> The zoom lens is by design variable. It is called just a "Zoom" lens. Variable would refer more to those zooms that have a variable aperture at different focal lengths. A fixed zoom retains the same aperture throughout its range. Zooms can vary between wide angle to barely telephoto and then full telephoto. ie 15-55 is generally a wide angle to "normal" 100-300 is telephoto zoom range.
> Many zooms also have a macro feature. Some are better than others. But will do if a prime macro is unavailable.
> A telephoto lens usually denotes a prime lens in the 100mm and up category.
> A wide angle is generally under 35mm
> A "normal" lens is generally 50-55mm but some photogs consider a 70mm normal for portraiture.
> A prime lens is any fixed focal length lens and are generally considered better quality than a zoom because they are better quality.
> DOF refers to the range (distance) in front of and behind the actual focal point that is still in focus. Lenses in general will have a shorter DOF in front of the focal point and more behind it. This of course is shortened with a larger opening.
> 
> FOV. Field of view. If a camera is a "cropped" sensor the field of view of the sensor is less than a full 35mm film frame. Lenses made for FF or 35mm (on certain systems) will work on a cropped sensor. A lens designed for the cropped sensor will usually cause vignetting on a FF camera. A cropped sensor gives the illusion of a longer focal length lens but in reality you're just capturing lens then what the lens is capable of.
> 
> Tripods. Buy a good tripod. A cheap unsteady tripod is worse than no tripod at all.
> 
> In digital it is noise. Grain is for film.
> 
> There are 3 diseases aquarium photographers are prone to. MTS, LBA and last but not least CBA. It is recommended to avoid these at all costs. Interventions rarely work.


Thanks for the info, I'm not going to get too indepth on lenses and sensor details but I will correct to "noise" and I will correct Variable Zoom lenses to just "zoom lenses" But I am curious as to what MTS LBA and CBA are?


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## Kai808

Great start! How about adding white balance? Most people should already understand the different color temperatures but not relate it to digital photography.


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## GraphicGr8s

Multiple Tank Syndrome
Lens Buying Addiction
Camera Buying Addiction

I suffer from all three.

MTS Somewhere near 30 tanks to be setup in the new fish room.
LBA Too many to count and more money than I care to add up.
CBA Nine or 10 camera bodies. I use all of them at one time or another.


As for white balance. Set it to auto. It'll get you close enough in most cases depending on the camera. Mine does it great about 98% of the time. Since I shoot raw+ it's not really a problem.

As for ISO. You are correct that it is the sensitivity of the sensor but what it allows you to do is either stop the lens down, increase shutter speed or both. Higher ISO's will allow you to shoot in a darker environment and get a correct exposure. It won't just make the pictures brighter. Opening the lens or slowing the shutter will also make them brighter. Or overexposed. Your choice. 
Generally you will find my camera set to 400. And if I am just walking with it I will set it to full auto instead of manual. Why? Because there are times when you're walking/driving along and a shot just hits you. Keeping it full auto will allow you to at least get something.


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## GDP

Great guide. I just got my first DSLR (canon eos 400d) a few days ago and am trying to figure out how the balance all 3 myself right now. I think I got my macro settings down goodish. 100 ISO, F10 f-stop, 1/60 shutter speed, and using my florecent light WB. I found this produces the least amount of wash out for me and my current kit lens.

This is really an in-depth hobby/field.


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## GraphicGr8s

GDP said:


> Great guide. I just got my first DSLR (canon eos 400d) a few days ago and am trying to figure out how the balance all 3 myself right now. I think I got my macro settings down goodish. 100 ISO, F10 f-stop, 1/60 shutter speed, and using my florecent light WB. I found this produces the least amount of wash out for me and my current kit lens.
> 
> This is really an in-depth hobby/field.


Increase your ISO to 400. Try to get the shutter speed to at least 125. You could also use shutter priority and let it set the aperture for you however I prefer full on manual. Increasing the shutter speed will stop the fish a little better and reduce camera movement. ISO 400 is a good all around setting. 200 a little better of course. 100 usually leads to too slow a shutter. IMEO


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## GDP

GraphicGr8s said:


> Increase your ISO to 400. Try to get the shutter speed to at least 125. You could also use shutter priority and let it set the aperture for you however I prefer full on manual. Increasing the shutter speed will stop the fish a little better and reduce camera movement. ISO 400 is a good all around setting. 200 a little better of course. 100 usually leads to too slow a shutter. IMEO


Yeah I just did actually after reading your post above. I also, so far, prefer full manual. And ive found I cant leave my WB on auto as it makes everything far too color saturated. Right now I have it set to florocent which gives me a much cooler picture.


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## karatekid14

Really nice write up, but I spotted a typo. You wrote wan't instead of want to.


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## GraphicGr8s

GDP said:


> Yeah I just did actually after reading your post above. I also, so far, prefer full manual. And ive found I cant leave my WB on auto as it makes everything far too color saturated. Right now I have it set to fluorescent which gives me a much cooler picture.


As I said in my post though I shoot raw+ so WB doesn't really matter in that case. If you're shooting jpeg remember that you are counting on the camera settings you've dialed in to process that photo for you. WB isn't the only thing that affects your jpeg. All of the settings do. WB will affect the color cast you see.


My preferred workflow is for the camera to capture the image only. I will process the final image myself in Photoshop. The + side of raw+ is also a jpeg image. I like having that also so that if I just need to shoot a shot via email I can just reduce the image size, do a quick crop and it's gone. Jpegs are also nice for snapshots I take of the son. If I find a shot that really moves me I process the raw file. Otherwise it's into the wife's album. If I'm doing a location shoot (like when I tore the shoulder apart) I use the jpeg for a quick reference and then process the raw files.


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## 5BodyBlade

I just bought my first camera that wasn't under $50. A Canon Powershot sx40 hs. I've never really been into photography, then I started seeing some of these photos and have been interested. This is a digital with a fixed lens, but a pretty decent zoom to it and it does have some features you're mentioning like aperture and macro. I haven't even scratched the surface yet. I'm wondering can this camera act similar to a slr? I mainly got it instead of the slr because it also shoots 1080p video as well.


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## GDP

5BodyBlade said:


> I just bought my first camera that wasn't under $50. A Canon Powershot sx40 hs. I've never really been into photography, then I started seeing some of these photos and have been interested. This is a digital with a fixed lens, but a pretty decent zoom to it and it does have some features you're mentioning like aperture and macro. I haven't even scratched the surface yet. I'm wondering can this camera act similar to a slr? I mainly got it instead of the slr because it also shoots 1080p video as well.


Im right there with you bro. I never gave a second thought to a nice camera till after seeing shots from Nick and the like. I hate them for doing this to me LOL!


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## Chlorophile

GraphicGr8s said:


> Multiple Tank Syndrome
> Lens Buying Addiction
> Camera Buying Addiction
> 
> I suffer from all three.
> 
> MTS Somewhere near 30 tanks to be setup in the new fish room.
> LBA Too many to count and more money than I care to add up.
> CBA Nine or 10 camera bodies. I use all of them at one time or another.
> 
> 
> As for white balance. Set it to auto. It'll get you close enough in most cases depending on the camera. Mine does it great about 98% of the time. Since I shoot raw+ it's not really a problem.
> 
> As for ISO. You are correct that it is the sensitivity of the sensor but what it allows you to do is either stop the lens down, increase shutter speed or both. Higher ISO's will allow you to shoot in a darker environment and get a correct exposure. It won't just make the pictures brighter. Opening the lens or slowing the shutter will also make them brighter. Or overexposed. Your choice.
> Generally you will find my camera set to 400. And if I am just walking with it I will set it to full auto instead of manual. Why? Because there are times when you're walking/driving along and a shot just hits you. Keeping it full auto will allow you to at least get something.



I'm going to explain that stuff in the "Balancing ISO, Aperture, and Shutter speed" section. 
But I will reword ISO to "If leaving shutter speed and ƒ-stop the same, a higher ISO will brighten the picture"

Also, I don't think there is anything wrong with Lens Buying Addiction! 
Especially if they are interchangeable with other camera bodies you may own.


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## Chlorophile

5BodyBlade said:


> I just bought my first camera that wasn't under $50. A Canon Powershot sx40 hs. I've never really been into photography, then I started seeing some of these photos and have been interested. This is a digital with a fixed lens, but a pretty decent zoom to it and it does have some features you're mentioning like aperture and macro. I haven't even scratched the surface yet. I'm wondering can this camera act similar to a slr? I mainly got it instead of the slr because it also shoots 1080p video as well.


I don't know much about that camera. 
Does it have an eyepiece/viewfinder or just an LCD? 
When you take a picture do you hear a clicky noise? 
A lot of cameras have a speaker that plays a simulated SLR mirror flap noise, but you can typically tell the difference. 
Eitherway, it should work more than well enough for Aquarium Photography except you won't ever be able to change lenses - which is good if you had no intention of buying any.


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## GraphicGr8s

Chlorophile said:


> I'm going to explain that stuff in the "Balancing ISO, Aperture, and Shutter speed" section.
> But I will reword ISO to "If leaving shutter speed and ƒ-stop the same, a higher ISO will brighten the picture"
> 
> Also, I don't think there is anything wrong with* Lens Buying Addiction!*
> Especially if they are interchangeable with other camera bodies you may own.


Of course you don't. I don't either. It's just those who don't understand why we need all that shiny new glass.

My lenses, for the most part and within my main system all work on all of the bodies I have, film or digital. That was the nice thing about staying with Pentax. They made some awesome glass over the years. Not all of it was K-mount some are M-42 screw mount. They all work on all of my Pentax bodies up to the level of the lens. But they all get shake reduction since it's in the body. And they still make some awesome glass. Their Limited series is second to none.

One mention about p&s cameras. not sure if it's still true but when I bought my little Easyshare one annoying thing was the shutter lag. Do the newer models still have that problem? And they do take a nice picture. Look at my post with the pano in the critique thread. Done with a 5MP P&S.


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## 5BodyBlade

Chlorophile said:


> I don't know much about that camera.
> Does it have an eyepiece/viewfinder or just an LCD?
> When you take a picture do you hear a clicky noise?
> A lot of cameras have a speaker that plays a simulated SLR mirror flap noise, but you can typically tell the difference.
> Eitherway, it should work more than well enough for Aquarium Photography except you won't ever be able to change lenses - which is good if you had no intention of buying any.


It has both an eyepiece and an lcd. There is a clicking sound but it is definitely simulated.


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## Chlorophile

5BodyBlade said:


> It has both an eyepiece and an lcd. There is a clicking sound but it is definitely simulated.


Weird... maybe the mirror doesn't need to move, some sort of new fangled technology haha.


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## Booger

Chlorophile,
Thanks for your input. I have a display tank that's proven extremely difficult to accurately capture. Doesn't help to have a lousy hack on the other end of the camera. Can you give me some advice as to which settings you might be inclined to start with?

Display tank - Open top ADA 120P w/ 2 150w pendants. Bulbs are ADA "green" bulbs which do indeed have a slight green hue to them.

DSLR - Rebel XTi w/ Tamron 18-55mm (errr, I think) lens

What do you think?


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## Chlorophile

Booger said:


> Chlorophile,
> Thanks for your input. I have a display tank that's proven extremely difficult to accurately capture. Doesn't help to have a lousy hack on the other end of the camera. Can you give me some advice as to which settings you might be inclined to start with?
> 
> Display tank - Open top ADA 120P w/ 2 150w pendants. Bulbs are ADA "green" bulbs which do indeed have a slight green hue to them.
> 
> DSLR - Rebel XTi w/ Tamron 18-55mm (errr, I think) lens
> 
> What do you think?


Although mostly a matter of personal taste I find that pictures look the best when you have your focal length as long as possible, especially for detail shots but probably for full tank shots as well. 
Sometimes a wide angle is nice if your lens is right up against the glass, but it doesn't have that same "look" as a long focal length...

soooo... set your focal length to atleast 35. But 55 would probably be better for most of your shots. 
I don't know exactly how bright those two pendants will make your tank, but I'd start off with an ISO of 400 and try a wide open aperture (lowest ƒ-stop) on a shutter speed of 1/60. 
If your too dark or light tweak your shutter speed - if you have to go below a 1/30 shutter speed you probably wan't to raise your ISO to 800. 
If you are photographing fish 1/60th will still probably be too slow and they will be blurry so you'll want something around 1/100 depending on how fast your fish are.
You'll have to try out different speeds to see what works.

Also set your white balance to auto, take a picture and if the color looks off then you could try tweaking it warmer or cooler till it looks the most like what you see with your eyes - or you could just go for whatever you think looks cool even if it isn't realistic. 
I kind of like setting my white balance a little warmer than what I see in real life for full tank shots. 

In our case where we typically have no need to use a smaller aperture you really only need to tweak ISO and shutter speed.


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## Daximus

Speaking as a complete beginner, defining these acronyms would be awesome. 



> You need a DSLR to get the best results, or at the very least a camera with manual focus, exposure, ISO, and aperture settings.
> Some of the modern point and shoot cameras are very good, but the key factor in an SLR is that when you look through the eye piece you are looking through the lens.


To...



> You need a DSLR _(Digital Single-Lens Reflex)_ to get the best results, or at the very least a camera with manual focus, exposure, ISO, and aperture settings.
> Some of the modern point and shoot cameras are very good, but the key factor in an SLR is that when you look through the eye piece you are looking through the lens.



Love the post and finding it very helpful! Just tossing in my thoughts as a complete beginner to all things photographic. Granted, all I had to do was google DSLR, but the first time I read this sentence it was above my head. :icon_redf


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## Chlorophile

Thank you - will change it.


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## Booger

Thanks for the advice. I'll give it another go and hopefully produce something worth keeping.


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## Chlorophile

Added some more stuff at the end of the first post


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## GraphicGr8s

Chlorophile said:


> Weird... maybe the mirror doesn't need to move, some sort of new fangled technology haha.


There is no mirror. It's an electronic VF according to Canon's website.

If your tank lights lean green then use the fluorescent wb. Works most of the time since fluorescent lights generally leave a green cast.
OK a couple of tips for the beginner.
1st Set your metering to Center Spot if your camera allows it. Most are set to averaging or center weighted.
2nd Set your focus point if your using auto focus to Center if your camera allows it.


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## BlueJack

Perfect! This is the thread I've been waiting for roud:


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## Chlorophile

GraphicGr8s said:


> There is no mirror. It's an electronic VF according to Canon's website.
> 
> If your tank lights lean green then use the fluorescent wb. Works most of the time since fluorescent lights generally leave a green cast.
> OK a couple of tips for the beginner.
> 1st Set your metering to Center Spot if your camera allows it. Most are set to averaging or center weighted.
> 2nd Set your focus point if your using auto focus to Center if your camera allows it.


Interesting, so like an LCD screen then?

What benefits are there to Center Spot Metering?
I will be putting a section in about how to use auto-focus or manual focus and get the results you want, and using the light meter in your viewfinder and the benefits or reasons behind using Center Metering would be good info to have.
I'm not highly confident that I know the real benefits - however I do have mine set to center metering just so that I can point the center on some sort of neutral green in the tank and balance my light meter based on that. 

In black and white photography I learned that your light meter only sees the color grey - and no matter what it is looking at it assumes the exposure is correct when whatever you are pointing at is the same tone as 18% grey. 
That might not be completely correct, but thats how I remember it and is roughly correct =]


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## GraphicGr8s

Chlorophile said:


> Interesting, so like an LCD screen then?
> 
> What benefits are there to Center Spot Metering?
> I will be putting a section in about how to use auto-focus or manual focus and get the results you want, and using the light meter in your viewfinder and the benefits or reasons behind using Center Metering would be good info to have.
> I'm not highly confident that I know the real benefits - however I do have mine set to center metering just so that I can point the center on some sort of neutral green in the tank and balance my light meter based on that.
> 
> In black and white photography I learned that your light meter only sees the color grey - and no matter what it is looking at it assumes the exposure is correct when whatever you are pointing at is the same tone as 18% grey.
> That might not be completely correct, but thats how I remember it and is roughly correct =]


I think it more or less is like the lcd screen. The advantage to it though is the contact points it gives you for stability.

I use center because I just feel it's more accurate. The other settings combine to much information and give an average so if you have one spike or one dark area that is in a place that isn't really going to be part of the final it throws off the metering. Averaging does just that. It averages out all of the available light and makes a decision. Center weighted takes into account the entire frame but puts more emphasis on what is in the center of the frame. I shoot manual so I take the reading on my subject and set it as a starting point. Then I generally move the camera to get the subject off center. Rule of thirds whenever possible. When not possible I like the subject just north of center. Your eye will tend to bring it down to center. It's an optical illusion but it works. An old throwback to Layout and Design class.


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## Robert H

Great stuff, can hardly wait for part 2. My biggest frustration is dealing with reflections in the glass...


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## GraphicGr8s

Robert H said:


> Great stuff, can hardly wait for part 2. My biggest frustration is dealing with reflections in the glass...


The simplest thing you can do is not be perpendicular to the glass when shooting. Find the angle that works. Second thing is to change the position of the flash. Hard to do if using the on board flash. If you can't move the flash then you just need to experiment with different camera angles to the glass until you minimize the reflections. Getting close to the glass also helps especially with a decent macro lens although I've done it with my standard 50mm prime. To really get rid of all reflections put the camera in the tank and shoot. You won't get reflections at all if the camera is underwater. You will however be buying a new camera. Your choice.

OK I hope you see the humor in that. NEVER EVER put your camera in the aquarium!! Unless of course it's designed for it.

Click on the line in yellow above before you try that last piece of advice


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## Chlorophile

Just saw this has become a sticky, I will make improvements a priority!


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## 2in10

As well it should be a STICKY. Great information and a huge help.


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## yigitoglu

> You won't get reflections at all if the camera is underwater. You will however be buying a new camera. Your choice.


I believe this is the best option 

BUT If you still feel you really need to take nice pictures without reflections: you can build a small glass cube to insert small webcam in it and let is sink.

im sure everybody has an old webcam that you do not use
and 4 pcs of small square glass with some silicone requires no budget.


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## GraphicGr8s

yigitoglu said:


> I believe this is the best option
> 
> BUT If you still feel you really need to take nice pictures without reflections: you can build a small glass cube to insert small webcam in it and let is sink.
> 
> im sure everybody has an old webcam that you do not use
> and *4 pcs of small square glass* with some silicone requires no budget.


Unless you know something I don't most (OK All) cubes generally have 8 sides.


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## Reehan

GraphicGr8s said:


> Unless you know something I don't most (OK All) cubes generally have 8 sides.


Make that 6 ;D but honestly this sounds like an interesting idea. The only issue I see is the difficult time someone would have siliconing and closing that last side. Anyone ever tried this and had success?


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## GraphicGr8s

Reehan said:


> Make that 6 ;D but honestly this sounds like an interesting idea. The only issue I see is the difficult time someone would have siliconing and closing that last side. Anyone ever tried this and had success?


No. It is most assuredly 8. And I can prove it beyond a shadow of a doubt.


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## Reehan

GraphicGr8s said:


> No. It is most assuredly 8. And I can prove it beyond a shadow of a doubt.


Did you divide by 0 to get the extra sides?? Strange things happen when you divide by 0...


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## GraphicGr8s

Reehan said:


> Did you divide by 0 to get the extra sides?? Strange things happen when you divide by 0...


No I did not divide by zero.


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## Reehan

I remember reading in one of my earlier threads that you found a retail shop in Riverview. Did you ever get a chance to make it by there? I was wondering where it was and what types of plants they sold.


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## GraphicGr8s

Well Reehan since you haven't gotten the riddle. You have the top side and the bottom side. The left and right side. The front side and the back side. That's six sides if you're keeping count. You also have the in side and the out side. Total of 8 sides. I rest my case.


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## 2in10

LOL using semantics to prove ones case.


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## yigitoglu

now i regret that mistake, i have no idea where my mind was when i type at the time. i never meant to start an argument 

you got my point anyway that was just an idea and if ever my plants grow i will be the one to try it out and let you guys know


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## fplata

now for the reflection, you should be able to use a circular polarizing filter. I am sure someone already mentioned that.


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## Guntar

Thanks for useful information.


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## CryptKeeper54

Good read. How do the pros do it is my question? The camera settings are always talked about but what about the tank setup? Should the tank be back lit? Most pro shots are done without any equipment of course but how do they make he ripple effect? With a fan? Should the room be dark, maybe curtains behind you to deflect any and all external light to avoid reflections? I could never find anything on the net or youtube for some reason. Comments, suggestions.... I would love to learn and I think that would be a great addition to this sticky.


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## garothmaan

Is the SLT better version than DSLR?


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## Seena

Good. Informative. Would definetly share it with my friends who are interested in photography. It can provide them with really useful tips.

Good work


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## Django

Mimi,

Thank you for writing your post. I've only read 2 pages, but it's very exciiting! I've never known what to do with all the buttons and menus except the most necessary ones, like 'Aquarium Mode' I have a several years old Canon PowerShot 1000. The manual is online PDF. If anyone has the inclination, I would really appreciate any comments on the manual.

The link to the PDF manual is: http://pdisp01.c-wss.com/gdl/WWUFORedirectTarget.do?id=MDMwMDAwMTIyMjAy&cmp=ABR&lang=EN

Thank you!


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## DXQ

A DSLR/SLT/mirroless camera should easily be able to take a good image of an aquarium.
Recent images that I have posted were taken using Program mode ... my camera used ISO 500, 1/60s @ f/2.8 ... 16mm (APS-C). Now I will say my camera has stabilization on sensor ... many current lenses have optical stabilization, so hand holding should not be a problem.
Other than camera shake, post processing would improve the overall image ... like adjusting white balance and highlights. Most cameras tend to come with some imaging application.

Using a point and shoot or phone may pose some problems with low shutter speed ... you could probably keep it steady on something, but moving objects would get blurred. More advanced point and shoots come with some semi or full manual control over shutter speed ... but may be defeated with low ISO (and lens aperture) to get enough light ... though most of the people on this forum have higher PAR lighting than what I have.


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## ThatFishThough

I understand this is a very old thread, but for those of you who know cameras....

I know someone on another forum that frequently posts beautiful pictures of her Betta. They have a solid black background, with only the fish being lit up by the flash/light. I recently got the same camera she has, but no matter how hard I try I can't get the same effect. It's a Canon Rebel T6, with the 2 lense kit. Any ideas?


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## houseofcards

Do you have off-Camera Flash?


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## ThatFishThough

No. Not sure if I could get one, either, depending on the price. How does one use off-camera flash?


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## GraphicGr8s

Many times that nice deep black background is done in post.

When I do a photo shoot with live people (sometimes it's hard to tell though) I use a black background. Thing is it's not a deep black like I want. But using a black curtain makes it easier to select the background and make it a rich black.

Expose for the fish. Then you need to decide the easiest part to select in post. And color from there.


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## That70sfishboy

Does anyone have any tips for reducing glare? I have a Nikon D3200 and my main issue with taking photographs of my spec is the glare.


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## f-fish

What glare ? Of items in the tank, on full tank shots etc ... 

Reduce the light sources in the room - sometimes shooting at night with only that tank's lights on helps. This means you can move around and shoot from all sort of angles without being caught in the mirror. 

Later Ferdie


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## That70sfishboy

f-fish said:


> What glare ? Of items in the tank, on full tank shots etc ...
> 
> Reduce the light sources in the room - sometimes shooting at night with only that tank's lights on helps. This means you can move around and shoot from all sort of angles without being caught in the mirror.
> 
> Later Ferdie


My issue is the light on the tank. If I try to get close, all I see is my Iphone Xs camera/case, and my hands. All other lights are off. Same goes for my DSLR when I use it.


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## Grobbins48

That70sfishboy said:


> My issue is the light on the tank. If I try to get close, all I see is my Iphone Xs camera/case, and my hands. All other lights are off. Same goes for my DSLR when I use it.


Have you tried a CPL lense cover on the DSLR? I have a cheap one, and even that helps cut a lot of glare. Just need to rotate it until the cover is aligned correcrly for your lighting and the polarization cuts the glare.


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## Koenig44

Chlorophile said:


> Beginners Guide to Aquarium Photography
> 
> A Brief Guide by Chlorophile​
> 
> In this guide I will attempt to outline some basics of shooting photography manually, some important gear to have, and how to make due without said gear, as well as some important things to remember when photographing through glass or when working with a scene that has distinct highlights and shadows.​
> 
> *Equipment*​
> *Camera:* You need a DSLR (Digital Single-Lens Reflex) to get the best results, or at the very least a camera with manual focus, exposure, ISO, and aperture settings.
> Some of the modern point and shoot cameras are very good, but the key factor in an SLR is that when you look through the eye piece you are looking through the lens.


Thanks for all of this. Very in depth. 


What's the difference between looking through the lens (eye piece), vs. looking at the digital screen on the back when you are taking the pic?


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## Asteroid

Koenig44 said:


> Thanks for all of this. Very in depth.
> 
> 
> What's the difference between looking through the lens (eye piece), vs. looking at the digital screen on the back when you are taking the pic?


Not much of a difference, mostly physical. It might be easier to use the eye piece if your taking a pic of a fish and want to follow it and focus. A full tank shot it wouldn't make any difference. Pretty much any camera these days can take a decent Full tank shot from a distance.


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## wardgillette

*autofocus methods*

Typically the viewfinder and the live view use a different autofocus method. Here is a link to a good article........https://fstoppers.com/education/dif...nder-autofocus-and-live-view-autofocus-195881


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## finsfeathersandtails

thank you for the write up.


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## mourip

Tip for getting a clear photo without a bunch of little dots or comas floating in the frame:

Turn off your pump and CO2 before taking your shots.


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