# Green spot algae but I have high phosphates?



## prighello (Aug 19, 2007)

Let me know if you get this figured out as I've got the same issue as well; high phosphates + co2 in the 30ppm range. Only thing I noticed for me was my nitrates keep flat-lining. So I keep adding more.


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## neilshieh (Sep 6, 2010)

it could be because the tank is still young, when did you set yours up? Mine has been running for ~2 months. I'm not too worried about the algae in my tank right now since it's very minor and I'm hoping once everything stabilizes it will all be good. Should i keep dosing my mono potassium phosphate if my phosphate levels are already this high?


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## BruceF (Aug 5, 2011)

I am surely no expert but when I see gsa I usually add more P (fleet). The alternative treatment for me is to try adding more kno3. I don't test anything I just watch the algae. Too much Kno3 and I get GDA.


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## prighello (Aug 19, 2007)

neilshieh, my tank is several years old but was rescaped a couple of months ago so you could call it newish. 

BruceF, fleet is like pure phosphate right? Well in the sense that it contains no other macros. We're both high on P so that can't be it right? Based upon your solution and what we're all dosing I'm thinking its a nitrate thing? Or a balance of NPK rations?


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## Fiftymeatballs (Mar 30, 2011)

Sorry to ask the obvious. Are you getting any direct sunlight on the tank, there is no mention of that in your descrip?

Also where on your glass, everywhere or just one side?


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## neilshieh (Sep 6, 2010)

Nope, the tank is in a little room out in my backyard. Once it's lights off it's pretty much pitch black. I have a 7 hr photoperiod.
I didn't check which side, but I saw it on the two larges panes of glass. Haven't seen it on any plants yet though. There is some on the rocks however.


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## Fiftymeatballs (Mar 30, 2011)

I would keep an eye on if the Gsa is spreading now with the increased phosphate. It might take some time though nothing works instantly except manual removal.


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## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

For me, the only thing that gives me any glass algae is a bit too much light or too little CO2. If you have a PAR meter, check the levels around the glass and tank in general. You may be surprised.

Example: I was using a dual t5ho Aquatic Life fixture sitting right on top of the tank (20 long, but I was using a layer of window screen to cut the intensity) for 8 hours, but I didn't get much wall algae at all. Changed to a 4 bulb ATI fixture that's about a foot off the top of the tank and now I'm getting some. It's around twice the light level and with much better spread than the previous light. Only problem is I can't raise it higher right now, so I just scrape the algae off and deal with it. :hihi:


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

neilshieh said:


> So I'm noticing some green spot algae on my glass. My tank is a 29 gallon with (3) 23 watt cfl fixtures in parabolic work lights resting on my glass canopy. I'm doing 1/2 strength EI dosing but sometimes i forget. Tank is moderately planted (most of the footprint is planted but i don't have any large bushels of plants or anything) I have pressurized co2 running and drop checker is always green (keep reading further, may not be accurate)
> Water params are:
> .25 nitrite
> .25-.5 ammonia
> ...



GSA is 2 parts: CO2 and PO4. 

PO4 is easy to rule out, that leaves..........CO2 and drop checkers suck.

NR and DB, stop using those.

Old timer or not, the CO2 is not being used correctly, never use other buffers than your KH of your tap or you can blend RO if you want it lower. Then use only CO2 to lower pH.

pH is just relative, say you starting pH before the lights come is about 7.4, you'll likely need about a pH of 6.4 to hit ~ 30 ppm of CO2.
This assumes that the tank starts off equal with the air above, which will be about 2-3 ppm of CO2.

GSA is present in my 70 Gallon Buce tank, but I only need to clean the glass once every 2-3 months if that. So there's hardly any at all, but there's a tiny bit. Is Fremont on EMUD water? 

Anytime you do something like EM treatments, or have algae to begin with, this old timer does 2-3 x a week water changes and kicks the labor up to whip the tank back into shape fast.

That's how I go from this:




to this ... in a few hours:




Buce tank also is very differently managed but has very very little algae. 
But good CO2 is key in all my tanks. Ferts can be all over the place. Light can be insane to low. I do the older methods, the newer methods and can do pretty much any in between. And you can force any method if you try, or happen upon a routine that luckily happens to work for you, but it bad advice for everyone else..............

What counts are growing the plants and focusing on that.
Algae is a good indication of what you have going wrong.
Pics of the tank issues etc are also very telling.


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## neilshieh (Sep 6, 2010)

I actually saw one tiny piece of BBA on a blade of my dwarf hairgrass so I've been slowly increasing the co2 in my tank. I'm guessing co2 is the problem and I only learned last week that if I'm using NR and DB it renders my drop checker useless. Plants are all growing well but I guess I still need to find a balance with co2 levels.


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## neilshieh (Sep 6, 2010)

I know that using NR and DB is not advised, but I've seen his tanks and many of his customers follow his methods. I set up my tank using some of his principles as an experiment to see how successful it is.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

neilshieh said:


> I know that using NR and DB is not advised, but I've seen his tanks and many of his customers follow his methods. I set up my tank using some of his principles as an experiment to see how successful it is.


Does his tank look like this?



Or this?



Or this?



Or this?




You need some baseline to compare to, many folks claim success, plants can still grow with algae and have some issues, but that's not a good baseline to compare to, you need optimal health, and you can have a way to compare various methods.

I suppose the NR/DB can be used if your CO2 is good still, but you cannot use the pH KH chart, you have to use relative pH and CO2 by eyeballing it, which we sort of do anyway. the real question I'll ask you, does NR or DB offer the plants ANYTHING other than PO4?

The answer is no, it does not. I'm sure plenty of similar products and additives are sold by LFS's that also offer the plants no useful benefits, but are part of their "method"

I can think of a dozen real fast.


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