# The Wasser-Controller



## Wasserpest

I have been pondering this for quite a while... In our age of cheap electronics, there should be affordable timers with multiple, independently controllable outlets. Yet, for some reason there is no such thing. The closest you can get for "affordable" is the Coralife double strip which is prone to bursting into flames. If you spend some serious money, you can get the Aquacontroller. After you pull out your wallet for the base unit, equipment still needs to be connected which costs even more.

So, seeing a niche here, I present you the Wasser-Controller, which is affordable, flexible, and partially hand-made. The original idea was discussed here, but there has been some fluff accumulating in that thread so I figured it might be better to start over.

What I am switching/pumping right now:

Main lights
Sunset/sunrise lights
Moon lights
Macros
Micros

What we need:

Irrigation controller ($35 for 6 station DIG 8006)
Relays (~$3 each)
Outlets ($0.70 each)
Some wires and a soldering iron to connect all of that

Total cost was around $50.

Initially I tried to take an existing power strip apart and make it work for my purposes, but that didn't work so well.










So instead, I attached the controller and outlets to a wooden board, leaving some space for the relays.










After soldering it all together I found out that two of the relays were faulty. Luckily I had bought 2 more, so with a few choice words I un-soldered and replaced them. I was going to enclose it all with more wood panels, but then I saw a box (from an electric shaver that I just bought with all the money I saved) and for some reason the whole setup just so fit in there. Fixed the front with some screws and saved myself a lot of woodworking.










Okay, let's call it a prototype. :redface: It is now hidden in a corner behind some other equipment, so no need for beautification.

Since the whole setup is a bit confusing, I tried to create a schematic that shows how things flow and switch:










Now that it has been working for a few day I must admit that I live with a feeling of great accomplishment. Had a long power outage the other night, and thanks to the 9V backup battery in the controller I didn't have to change two mechanical and reset two electronic timers. Not a single problem so far.

Things to consider...

1) Putting it all together in a package like I did makes things compact, but access to the controller is somewhat difficult. So if you are still figuring out your schedules, and/or have a desire to constantly fiddle, it might be better to put the timer in a better accessible spot.

2) Driven by an irrigation controller, it is very easily adapable for all sorts of solenoids to automate water changes. One day my tank will have an overflow for "used water" and I will just run the water change nightly or whenever without having to remember.

3) Unless you are familiar with electricity and know how to hold a soldering iron, do no attempt anything like that because you will surely hurt yourself and your loved ones. This isn't meant to be an instruction, rather I am just sharing an idea.


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## Green Leaf Aquariums

You are the DIY master!


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## original kuhli

Nice work, now if someone could set the wasser up with some punched out DC8 style housings we could get going on a true home brewed controller. 

A couple questions:

1. What's the spec on the relay, there's an awful lot to choose from.
2. Can you see a cost/space effective way to control 12 to 18 outlets?

I'd read of some famed Siemens industrial controller that was quite cheap a ways back that looked like it had potential, not as cheap but still sub $75 if I remember right.


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## plantbrain

So it controls you with 6 switches?:thumbsup: 
hehe

Looks nice and is an excellent DIY.
Thanks for starting a new post and the schematic.
This should work pretty well.

I've always eyeballed those irrigation controllers.

Thanks for the thread
Two green thumbs up!

Tom Barr


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## Wasserpest

original kuhli said:


> 1. What's the spec on the relay, there's an awful lot to choose from.


I used POTTER & BRUMFIELD KHAU-17A11-24 RELAY 14 BLADE 24VAC from ebay. If you have time to shop around you can get those relays cheaper from some surplus places and save some dough.



original kuhli said:


> 2. Can you see a cost/space effective way to control 12 to 18 outlets?


The controller I used maxes out at 6 zones, there might be others that can do more, but they might not handle two at a time and independent programming. You could use 2 or 3 of the controllers. Controlling 18 outlets (if you must) would cost you about $150, with the AC Jr. probably around $400, so still some savings although at some point it might be more convenient to just deal with a single control module.
Space-wise you would need room to mount the controllers and outlets. The relays don't take that much space.
For a future tank I will mount the outlets directly in the stand, with a more accessible controller, and the wires all hidden away safely.


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## aquanut415

WOW...one of the BEST DIY threads here wasser :thumbsup: ... thank you so much for posting this.


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## original kuhli

Woofta, with 30 amp capacity those relays won't be an issue. Have you had any problem getting them to switch very low draw applications? I know the neptunesys/aquacontroller have had problems with low draw stuff, I've not had any trouble though.


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## Wasserpest

Nope, the relays don't care if there are low amps going through the contacts. As long as it isn't more than they are spec'd for there is no issue at all.

Thanks aquanut, Tom, and all others for your positive comments! Makes the many hours of tinkering worth it.


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## jinx©

Excellent project and write up. Thanks for taking the time to share it. roud:

Here's a great site for project enclosures that offer free samples of various size/type project boxes. Knowing how you tinker, I'm sure you can find a use for them...lol
I've received some great free boxes from them in the past that I used for various PC and electrical projects.


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## Buck

I try to squeeze in the time to do water changes and trims and you are out there designing KILLER controllers ! 

Great job on that , you are the man ! roud:


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## scolley

WP - Outstanding! You are to be congratulated. Thank you!

This makes me want to go grab my soldering iron. I'm gonna go grab my Jemco catalogue and see what kind of enclosures I can find. But first a few questions...

1) I'm I seeing this correctly? That's two sockets, and two socket pairs (two plugs each) that are being controlled?
2) And that also you have not wired the 5th and 6th controlled circuits to the 120V, but to the 24v because your intention is that they are dedicated to your 24v solenoids?
3) Are those relays all different? They look like it. Maybe similar function, just what was in your grab bag at the time?

And I'd like to chime in as a "high tech", heavily controlled kind of guy...

I think this would work just fine, or maybe a pair of them. Being limited to two channels at once isn't such a big deal. You wouldn't want to drain and fill your tank on the same time. That should be sequential. So only one channel used there. And if you were doing fert dosing, well you could do that when you were not draining or filling. So again, only one channel used.

The other channel would control your lights, and depending on timing, that too might be on the same control channel. So did I say you might need two of these? Shucks. Sounds to me like one might do just fine!

Thanks for trying this and sharing it WP. I'm looking forward to seeing where this goes.


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## colinthebassist

Looks totally awesome. I'm eventually going to get to using a Omron PLC for my tank this summer. Looking at your circuit diagram it appears you are switching the 120V nuetral. I am curious as to why you chose not to switch the 120V hot side, as this would eliminate the electrical potential on your equipment when its not running.


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## tropicalfish

Really? Seems as if the neutral runs from the line straight to the outlets... not switched.


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## Wasserpest

Buck said:


> I try to squeeze in the time to do water changes and trims and you are out there designing KILLER controllers !
> 
> Great job on that , you are the man ! roud:


Thanks Buck! Once you get your water changes automated, all of a sudden you have time to throw together a few other things.


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## Wasserpest

Thank you Steve for your kind words. As always, you think things through a bit more thorough, so let me try to address your comments...



> 1) I'm I seeing this correctly? That's two sockets, and two socket pairs (two plugs each) that are being controlled?


It is three socket pairs, making for a total of 6 outlets (A-F in my schematic). The first two (A and B) are switched independently, while C and D as well as E and F are flip-flops. When one of them is on, the other is off. In other words, C/D and E/F are both controlled by a single relay.



> 2) And that also you have not wired the 5th and 6th controlled circuits to the 120V, but to the 24v because your intention is that they are dedicated to your 24v solenoids?


That is correct... I could have connected the 5th and 6th controller outlet to two more relays, but a) I didn't see the need to switch THAT many things independently, and b) yes, I want to use at least one of them for driving water changes in the future.



> 3) Are those relays all different? They look like it. Maybe similar function, just what was in your grab bag at the time?


No, they are all identical. In the first picture, I took 4 of them and placed them in different ways so four sides can be seen. Hehe.



> I think this would work just fine, or maybe a pair of them. Being limited to two channels at once isn't such a big deal. You wouldn't want to drain and fill your tank on the same time. That should be sequential. So only one channel used there. And if you were doing fert dosing, well you could do that when you were not draining or filling. So again, only one channel used.
> 
> The other channel would control your lights, and depending on timing, that too might be on the same control channel. So did I say you might need two of these? Shucks. Sounds to me like one might do just fine!


I think the 6 zones give you quite some flexibility. Keep in mind that in another project I created a Delay Timer to dose micros, and I can connect that one to any other switch. For example, my macros dose at 10:28, while the micros are connected with the moonlight which turns on at 21:59 (lights turn off at 22:00), and they run for like 4 seconds as per delay timer setting.

Two at a time is much better than one at a time... still a bit limiting. For my daytime high light period I have two banks of light running at the same time, so obviously there is nothing else that can be switched during that time. But everything else (moonlights, water changes, fert dosing) takes up relatively short periods so there is a lot of different things that can happen successively after lights are out.


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## Wasserpest

colinthebassist said:


> Looks totally awesome. I'm eventually going to get to using a Omron PLC for my tank this summer. Looking at your circuit diagram it appears you are switching the 120V nuetral. I am curious as to why you chose not to switch the 120V hot side, as this would eliminate the electrical potential on your equipment when its not running.





tropicalfish said:


> Really? Seems as if the neutral runs from the line straight to the outlets... not switched.


In my diagram, I haven't really marked what is hot and what is neutral. But you can see the neutral (white wire) goes to the outlets, while the hot (black wire) connects to the relays and is therefore switched. So I agree with tropicalfish.


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## intermediate_noob

Wasserpest, another amazing project and thanks for sharing this with the group. My question is a little more elementary, but I am not completely up to speed when it comes to electronics and wiring, so could you suggest any books or sites I should check out before tackling a project like this? Thanks for your time and tinkering!


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## DiscusIt'sWhats4DinneR

this is the sort of ingenuity i love to see 

now run along and get a patent on that wasser controller before somebody else does!

great job!


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## Grubs

Wasserpest said:


> In our age of cheap electronics, there should be affordable timers with multiple, independently controllable outlets. Yet, for some reason there is no such thing.


Here in Australia our local hardware store stocks $25.00 timer boards that have a digital timer on one end with 4 outlets that are independently controlled. You can set up to 4 on/off cycles for each outlet with 1min resolution.

On my tank I use one outlet for my CO2 solenoid and the other three run my halide lights and sunrise/sunset lights. All are on different programs to give a staggered lighting effect.

I'm surprised that you cant get something similar there. I wonder if it has something to do with the relays required for switching higher current in the US? Each outlet is rated for 240V @ 10A in AU vs the need for 110V @ 20A in the US.


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## Wasserpest

intermediate_noob said:


> Wasserpest, another amazing project and thanks for sharing this with the group. My question is a little more elementary, but I am not completely up to speed when it comes to electronics and wiring, so could you suggest any books or sites I should check out before tackling a project like this? Thanks for your time and tinkering!


Thanks for your kind words. To be honest, I don't know what to recommend. I learned the basics of electricity in school, and since early age, always had a soldering iron close by.  

I am sure there are websites that teach some basic stuff. If you are the reading sort of person, check your library, I am certain there is a "Electronics for Dummies" or such which can explain some of the basics in an entertaining way (I haven't checked, so maybe there isn't).


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## Wasserpest

DiscusIt'sWhats4DinneR said:


> this is the sort of ingenuity i love to see
> 
> now run along and get a patent on that wasser controller before somebody else does!
> 
> great job!


Thanks! I am just here to share, unless I would want to produce something like this en mass (and I don't) there is no point paying money for a patent. Plus, it is just a bunch of available stuff thrown together, no real invention...


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## Wasserpest

Grubs said:


> Here in Australia our local hardware store stocks $25.00 timer boards that have a digital timer on one end with 4 outlets that are independently controlled. You can set up to 4 on/off cycles for each outlet with 1min resolution.
> 
> On my tank I use one outlet for my CO2 solenoid and the other three run my halide lights and sunrise/sunset lights. All are on different programs to give a staggered lighting effect.
> 
> I'm surprised that you cant get something similar there. I wonder if it has something to do with the relays required for switching higher current in the US? Each outlet is rated for 240V @ 10A in AU vs the need for 110V @ 20A in the US.


I don't think it is the current. Some of the small relays can switch even 30A. Conversely, for most applications smaller ratings are alright. 200W of light will only draw about 2A at 110V...

Perhaps there IS something like that available, sounds like what you are describing is exactly what I thought should be available. I just haven't found anything like it yet.

BTW the controller is working flawlessly... No issues with anything so far. Remains to be seen for how long it will hold up.


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## Gatekeeper

how we doing here?


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## Wasserpest

Sorry, I missed your request for an update... here it is:

This is one of the few DIY projects that worked out perfectly. Not sure for how long the little relays hold up, but so far, not a single problem at all.

Thanks to the battery backup it is holding time extremely well, not affected by power outages.

Thanks for asking... very recommended if you don't mind soldering a few wires. I had a few PM's asking for specifics... don't be shy and post your solution if you built one.


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## Augus

Wasser-controller is not on your signature  always look at your signature for great DIY project.


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## Gatekeeper

Yep, totally agree. Should be in your sig. One of the better DIY I have seen.


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## CL

It is a great DIY. I bet even the reefers over at RC would be impressed


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## Wasserpest

Thanks guys, good idea... for easy reference I added it to my signature. :thumbsup:


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## Gatekeeper

Out of curiosity, (I am not that knowledable with this little electronic gizmo stuff), but is it necessary to have a 30 amp relay? To me it is just a "electric switch" so really the current is just being transfered when the relay trips right? So would a smaller amperage relay do just the same, depending on the output from the controller?

Forgive my ignorance...


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## Wasserpest

The amperage refers to the max that can be switched... has nothing to do with what the relay draws itself to switch its state.

If you use a relay to switch a higher current than what it is spec'd for it might burn up the contacts, burn up the whole relay, and/or stress whatever you have connected to it.

So if you know that your load current will not exceed 2A, then you would be fairly safe with a 2A relay. However, a 30A relay might work just as good. A possible downside of "bigger" relays is that their wiring might require more current as well, therefore wasting some energy when you have it in its powered state for extended times. The relays I am using use about one Watt each, so it isn't a big deal.

I was just looking for cheap 24V relays, and these were the ones I came across. Not necessarily the best choice, but they seem to do the trick for now. 

(BTW - I am not an electrician or anything... just trying to answer questions as good as possible, but take my speculations with a few grains of salt or something :icon_wink).


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## Jens

Homage to a great DIY, thanks Wasserpest for bringing it to the masses. 

I refitted a rack mounted power strip with relays to get a nicer look. $35 on top of Wasserpests estimate. Note to everybody thinking about this, BUY 24 VAC relays not DC relay. DC relays will make a funny noise while switching  I learned...


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## Wasserpest

Ooooh! That is looking nice. Thanks for sharing Jens. And good point about the relays... DC type things don't like to be feed with AC. :hihi:

Do you have the switches on your rack mount connected to the outlets to override them?


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## Gatekeeper

A la _Wasser-Controller Pro _or _Wasser-Controller V.2_?


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## Jens

Wasserpest said:


> Do you have the switches on your rack mount connected to the outlets to override them?


Thanks! And yes, the switches will override the timer-controlled relays for ON-operation.

Nice if you like to kick off a water change or dosing manually.


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## Gatekeeper

Jens,

If you have the switch "on" and the controller activates the relay due to a timed sequence, will this short the system? I guess what I am asking, you have the switch and relay running parallel I presume?


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## Wasserpest

The switch would be running parallel to the controller and not short anything.


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## bwagner

I was doing some research and stumbled across this (very nice) setup. I was going to do something similar using a PLC that I have kicking around, but after seeing your set up I am favoring your relay logic vs. my PLC.

I understand the whole system is protected by whatever outlet you house is rated for, for example you most likely on a 20A or 30A house circuit breaker. But what are you’re thought on protecting the main 120V coming to the outlets with a fuse or protecting each branch with their own fuse? I might be over thinking the set up or I just might be over paranoid, but just wanted to get some thoughts and make sure I don’t’ burn down the house.


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## Wasserpest

I hope the regular circuit breaker is sufficient. Rather than using circuit breakers for each outlet, I would consider to upgrade the relay wiring. Maybe find relay sockets with more secure connections... soldering directly to the relay pins isn't the the best solution.

The whole thing is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet. Separate circuits might be good for reef tanks with lots of metal halides and big pumps, my 100gal setup draws less than 300W, plus another 200W (rarely) when the heater kicks in.


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## c_sking

Wasserpest said:


> I hope the regular circuit breaker is sufficient. Rather than using circuit breakers for each outlet, I would consider to upgrade the relay wiring. Maybe find relay sockets with more secure connections... soldering directly to the relay pins isn't the the best solution.
> 
> The whole thing is plugged into a GFCI protected outlet. Separate circuits might be good for reef tanks with lots of metal halides and big pumps, my 100gal setup draws less than 300W, plus another 200W (rarely) when the heater kicks in.


Nice and good idea.
You can get relay sockets the same place you get the relays providing they are not PCB mount . Yea the sockets are the only thing I would do different. 
Keep it up and great job!!!


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## avs

*Application of the Wasser-Controller for dosing*

I consider application of the Wasser-Controller for dosing with SP100 peristaltic pumps. My plan is to convert 24VAC control signal into DC driving SP101.051 pump.
According to the SP 101 spec sheet SP101.051 draws upto 75ma @24VDC and pumps about 2.1 ml/min. 8006 irrigation controller supplies 24 VAC, 0.27 amps per station, which should be sufficient to drive SP100.
What do you guys think? Will this work? How would I convert 24VAC to 24VDC?


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## lovingHDTV

Anyone know of a different controller that will work like the DIG 8006? I think it needs to be a drip irrigation timer (longer times and should be able to overlap zones), but I'm not finding anything out there.

Just hoping someone have found something that will work.

thanks,
dave


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## Wasserpest

When I originally researched this, I checked the other commonly used brands (Rainbird, Orbit) and they didn't have anything that combined everything needed to make it work. I was about to throw in the towel, when I came across the DIG.

I believe they are still sold here. If you'd like I can check the price and send it to you for that plus shipping. You could also check w/ Glenn (gmccreedy) to see if he has one for sale, not sure.


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## Gatekeeper

Wasserpest said:


> You could also check w/ Glenn (gmccreedy) to see if he has one for sale, not sure.


I got that baby working OT on my emersed setup!


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## Wasserpest

Alright, I wasn't sure... :icon_smil

HDTV - I'll check and let you know next week.


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## MoparMuscl

Jens said:


> Homage to a great DIY, thanks Wasserpest for bringing it to the masses.
> 
> I refitted a rack mounted power strip with relays to get a nicer look. $35 on top of Wasserpests estimate. Note to everybody thinking about this, BUY 24 VAC relays not DC relay. DC relays will make a funny noise while switching  I learned...


I know this thread is old, but I'm thinking of ditching my Coral Life Digital timers for a Wasser-Controller setup like you have. I found that same exact power supply for $34. Can you comment on the reliability of that power supply? Heat issues? Any problems at all? Anything you would do different?


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## Wasserpest

That is not a power supply, just a housing with switches. While this is Jens' improvement and he can comment on this, I am pretty sure there is nothing in there that can get warm or fail if all is soldered and connected correctly.

The irrigation controller itself has a power supply that gets warm, but nothing unusual.

Things that can fail in this setup -- the controller itself, and the relays. That said, for me it has been running for over a year without a hitch.


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## MoparMuscl

Wasserpest said:


> That is not a power supply, just a housing with switches. While this is Jens' improvement and he can comment on this, I am pretty sure there is nothing in there that can get warm or fail if all is soldered and connected correctly.
> 
> The irrigation controller itself has a power supply that gets warm, but nothing unusual.
> 
> Things that can fail in this setup -- the controller itself, and the relays. That said, for me it has been running for over a year without a hitch.


Cool. The reason I called it a power supply is because on all the websites I have looked at it is called a power supply. I know it is nothing more than an individually switched power 'strip'. I just like that all the plugs are in the back. I am a neat freak and am looking for a way to clean up my electrical. Right now my two Coral Life timers have cords going everywhere and I hate it! 

BTW, great idea on the Wasser-controller!


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## MoparMuscl

Wasserpest...where did you get you Dig 8006 controlller? The cheapest I have found them is for ~$55 shipped.


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## Wasserpest

Home Depot, they have them for $35 over here.


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## lovingHDTV

Here is my version. I bought a 6 outlet power strip from Fry's and installed the 24AC relays inside the power strip to control the outlets. I hooked up the relays using a cat5 network cable that I cut one end off.

I then bought a cat5 punch down connector and hooked it up to the controller. I can now easily disconnect the controller from the power strip if the need arises.

It all works great except for one thing. Only outlet 4 works when I tried it. Turns out the store I bought my relays from, gave me 5 120VAC coils and only one 24VAC coil. So I have to disassemble the entire thing, return the wrong relays and get correct ones, then put it all back together. ARGS!!

But outlet 4 works great!!


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## Regloh

Very neat! I love it...


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## Wasserpest

That's an awesome idea. I was actually looking for something similar... a long time ago, folks would use these power switch boxes for their computers, where they would plug the computer, monitor, printer etc in the back, and in front there were those lit switches, and the monitor would sit on top. We had a bunch of them at work, unfortunately, when I asked, they had just a week or two prior thrown them away as being obsolete.

But this powerstrip is actually nicer, takes up less space, and it all fits in there. Plus the outlets are spaced for some of the bricks that are used with nightlights and such.

Great design! Sorry to hear about the relays, I had a similar issue where two of the four that I used were DOA. Probably a good idea to test them before soldering.


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## lovingHDTV

after I get it all working, I plan on integrating the cat5 socket into the controller. There is just enough room to put it below the wire connection panel in the controller. For me there is a QC sticker, but I'll make a nice square hole and mount the socket there. That will clean it up a bit.

But off to the electronics house to get 5 more relays.


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## lovingHDTV

Got replacement relays and get it all hooked up.

I'm seeing one issue with the controller. It appears that I can only have two zones active at the same time? I thought that this controller allowed you to have all six zone active simultaneously?

Hopefully someone that has it working can tell me what I"m doing wrong.

thanks,
dave

P.S. - well crap. Feature #16 on the back of the box. "Valve wait mode: The controller allows for up to two valve to be open at the same time, and if a third valve is scheduled to open, the third valve will enter into a wait mode. The valve will open when one of the two open valves close."

Does this mean the more recent controllers are different than the original Wasser controller?


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## Wasserpest

You should have looked up the link in the original post... :fish:

All other irrigation timers only allow for *ONE* valve open at a time. This one does two, which _should_ be sufficient for most situations. You don't have to do everything at once... Dose micros after lights out... Macros before lights on... etc.

In order to have six valves open at the same time, the irrigation controller would need a larger power supply. For irrigation purposes, usually you don't want more than one circuit running at the same time, otherwise the water pressure might go down. In other words, two valves open simultaneously is probably an exception with these sort of devices.


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## lovingHDTV

Wasserpest said:


> You should have looked up the link in the original post... :fish:
> 
> All other irrigation timers only allow for *ONE* valve open at a time. This one does two, which _should_ be sufficient for most situations. You don't have to do everything at once... Dose micros after lights out... Macros before lights on... etc.
> 
> In order to have six valves open at the same time, the irrigation controller would need a larger power supply. For irrigation purposes, usually you don't want more than one circuit running at the same time, otherwise the water pressure might go down. In other words, two valves open simultaneously is probably an exception with these sort of devices.


Yeah I went and re-read everything. What I'm trying to do is control low lights, high lights, CO2. So I need three relays at once. For now I just ganged two relays together and have just "lights" and reduced their total on time, and CO2.

I don't dose ferts or do automated water changes.

I looked around for controllers that do more simultaneous relays (i.e. 4), but they are like $250 :eek5:

So far it works as advertised so I'll use it until I find or make something that allows me to use three relays simultaneously.

thanks,
dave


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## Wasserpest

Dave, what I do, I combine CO2 with one of the light banks. Say you have half the lights on for 1 hour, then all lights for 9 hours, and then the other half for 1 hour. You could run the CO2 with the first half of the lights. That way the level will be good when the second half comes on, and turn off and slowly taper out during the last hour.

Just an example of course. Everyone does that a bit differently.


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## outcast

lol lots of the wiring and exposed leads has the electrician in me cringing. Why not spent the little bit extra and get the sockets for the relays? way better to screw to terminal screws than solder. Plus when a relay fries, its a quick swap. Im a big fan of clean electrical, especially under a tank full of water. What i've done was bring the power from the wall socket into a GFCI under the tank, and i have a box nippled to it with 3 duplex receptacles. Giving me 6 controlled receptacles and 2 always on.

the 3 gang receptacle bank is filled with x10 receptacles that let me automate the control from a different location, i opted for the computer option. So lights and pump on/off times are easily fine tuned from the PC and uploaded to a transmitter thats powered independantly. I hate crouching under that tank


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## Wasserpest

*Good question*



tmclane said:


> Hello there,
> 
> I was attempting to follow in your footsteps on the wasserpest-controller DIY and I had a question about the relays.
> 
> I see in the thread where people are saying that the relay (KHAU-17A11-24) handles 30A.
> I am confused because the specifications on the main sites say they only handle 3A.
> 
> Does this change based on the actual current being used?
> If so what is this value based on?
> 
> I found some relays on ebay that say they can handle 5A but I want to be able to get around 30A capacity so that I don't melt the thing when I try and run CO2 and my lights on one relay.
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> -Travis


Hi Travis, the max amps for a given relay don't change. I would go by what the manufacturer (Tyco Electronics) suggests which is 3A.

Sorry about the false/confusing information. Looks like the place that I got the relays from was a bit over optimistic.

Keep in mind that while the coil voltage is 24V, they switch 110V. So the max wattage would be around 330W, which is quite a bit. The CO2 solenoid only draws around 5W (might be different for different models) and if you split the lights into two banks, you should have plenty Wattage.

Of course, if your tank has three 150W HQI lamps over it, you would need a different relay.


----------



## jmhart

Wasser,

Have you incorporated your water change system into the Wasser-controller? Meaning, how do your float valves interact with the solenoid/controller setup?

Second, less important question: Did you purchase your irrigation solenoids online, and if so, where?


----------



## Wasserpest

jmhart said:


> Have you incorporated your water change system into the Wasser-controller? Meaning, how do your float valves interact with the solenoid/controller setup?


I assume you are referring to my latest plywood setup... The controller turns the irrigation valve (solenoid) on and off. In the overflow bucket, the backup float switch disconnects the circuit in case the drain pump malfunctions. So there are simply 3 wires: between controller and solenoid, between solenoid and float switch, and between float switch and controller. Does that make sense? I explained that a bit more in detail in the 250gal journal (HTB ).



jmhart said:


> Second, less important question: Did you purchase your irrigation solenoids online, and if so, where?


No, I bought them in Home Depot.


----------



## jmhart

Thanks for the response. The 3 wire system is clear to me. I have another question, but it relates a little bit more to the water change system than to the controller, so I'll post it in your plywood build thread.


----------



## jmhart

Wasserpest said:


> I used POTTER & BRUMFIELD KHAU-17A11-24 RELAY 14 BLADE 24VAC from ebay



Have you had any problems with these relays? Looking at the specs, they are only rated for 3 A output....depending on your lighting you could be pushing that.


----------



## Wasserpest

jmhart said:


> Thanks for the response. The 3 wire system is clear to me. I have another question, but it relates a little bit more to the water change system than to the controller, so I'll post it in your plywood build thread.


You are more than welcome to do that. 



jmhart said:


> Have you had any problems with these relays? Looking at the specs, they are only rated for 3 A output....depending on your lighting you could be pushing that.


I have not had any problems since building this thing, like 1.5 years ago? Relays have been working very well.

I switch my lights in two banks, the total wattage is about 330W, so each relay deals with less than 1.5A. But that's a good point, you probably want to get beefier relays if you plan on switching say three 150W HQI burners with a single relay.

BTW I am not endorsing these specific relays, they were just the cheapest I found at that time. More recently, I got a bunch more from ebay, for a whoppin' $2 shipped.

Omron MY4 24VAC (S) 3A PCB Relay 4PDT NEW ... from Uncle Charlies Barn

If you look around for good deals from surplus places the costs of projects like this can be reduced significantly.


----------



## jmhart

Wasserpest said:


> I have not had any problems since building this thing, like 1.5 years ago? Relays have been working very well.
> 
> I switch my lights in two banks, the total wattage is about 330W, so each relay deals with less than 1.5A. But that's a good point, you probably want to get beefier relays if you plan on switching say three 150W HQI burners with a single relay.


I think my biggest pull will be from a bank of 4x54 T5HO, coming out around 2 amps, then adding my co2 to that circuit probably doesn't push me anywhere near 3 amps. I was thinking of using some 5 amp relays, but I want to keep things as low as possible for safety's sake.


Meanwhile, prices have significantly increased on this DIG controller in the past 1.5 years. DIG doesn't even make the 8006 anymore...they have the 5006 which appears to be the same exact thing; my guess is it's been updated, maybe with a smaller housing and maybe some more efficient materials. I checked out some other controllers, and for the money I still think the DIG 5006 is the way to go. You can get a different decent 6 zone controller for $40, but it doesn't have all the bells and whistles that the DIG has. 

If you want 8 zones, the prices jumpes significantly. 6 is good. For my 120, I added it all up, and I'll still only be using 5 zones: zone 1 first bank of lights and co2, zone 2 second set of lights and UV, zone 3 three dosing pumps, zone four drain valve, zone 5 fill valve. Zone 6 is for some unknown future expansion I guess.


----------



## Wasserpest

I added something to my previous post while you were responding...



jmhart said:


> I think my biggest pull will be from a bank of 4x54 T5HO, coming out around 2 amps, then adding my co2 to that circuit probably doesn't push me anywhere near 3 amps.


CO2 solenoids only eat about 4-8 Watts, so you should be good with 3A relays.



jmhart said:


> I was thinking of using some 5 amp relays, but I want to keep things as low as possible for safety's sake.


Not sure I understand what you mean... the relay Amp rating has to do with the contacts that are closed and opened. Whether you use a 3A or a 50A relay to switch 2A doesn't really change anything from a safety's point of view, although the 50A one will most likely be more expensive and draw more current to keep the contacts closed.


----------



## jmhart

Well, I guess I was thinking a 3 amp relay would blow out in case of a funky short, instead of letting 15 amp flow at me or the tank.


----------



## Wasserpest

jmhart said:


> Meanwhile, prices have significantly increased on this DIG controller in the past 1.5 years. DIG doesn't even make the 8006 anymore...they have the 5006 which appears to be the same exact thing; my guess is it's been updated, maybe with a smaller housing and maybe some more efficient materials. I checked out some other controllers, and for the money I still think the DIG 5006 is the way to go. You can get a different decent 6 zone controller for $40, but it doesn't have all the bells and whistles that the DIG has.
> 
> If you want 8 zones, the prices jumpes significantly. 6 is good. For my 120, I added it all up, and I'll still only be using 5 zones: zone 1 first bank of lights and co2, zone 2 second set of lights and UV, zone 3 three dosing pumps, zone four drain valve, zone 5 fill valve. Zone 6 is for some unknown future expansion I guess.


Here is what I have set up: 1 - first light bank 2 - second light bank 3 - Moonlights 4 - Micros 5 - Macros 6 - water change (I have CO2 on a separate timer at the moment).

Keep in mind that most controllers only allow ONE zone working at a time, the DIG allows for two, which is restricting, but works for most situations. If you would want to switch concurrently, but independently two light banks, CO2, and canopy cooling fans for example, you would need two of the DIG controllers. I better go and buy a spare one if they discontinued the 8006. There is another DIG controller that goes down to second precision, but it was significantly more expensive, and might have some other quirks.



jmhart said:


> Well, I guess I was thinking a 3 amp relay would blow out in case of a funky short, instead of letting 15 amp flow at me or the tank.


You need to let your GFCI handle that... at the milli-Amp level!


----------



## jmhart

Wasserpest said:


> You need to let your GFCI handle that... at the milli-Amp level!


I suppose "redundancy" is what I'm going for.


----------



## jmhart

Jens said:


> Homage to a great DIY, thanks Wasserpest for bringing it to the masses.
> 
> I refitted a rack mounted power strip with relays to get a nicer look. $35 on top of Wasserpests estimate. Note to everybody thinking about this, BUY 24 VAC relays not DC relay. DC relays will make a funny noise while switching  I learned...



Just finished my Wasser-Controller _Pro_ :hihi::hihi::hihi:

And MAN, how easy is that! I built this just like the one above, with the rack mount power supply. Not counting the time it took to gather all the supplies, took me about 3 hours to put it all together, and that includes time walking in and out of my house to check on the guys building my retaining wall.

Cost on the DIG controller went up, paid $65 for the controller, but picked up the power supply for $20/shipped instead of the $35. Total cost spent was about $100, and throw in some cat-5 cable I had lying around and the solder/iron I already had. 

Compare that to $300+ for a MODEST Aqua Controller Jr. setup. Now, if we can just figure out a way to incorporate a CHEAP pH controller.


----------



## S&KGray

Would the controller I asked about here work as well as the DIG?


----------



## Wasserpest

As you found out in your other thread, the Toro controller only allows one valve (zone) "on" at a time. That might be okay if you have only one bank of lights, but if you have more and want to control them independently, or want to add some high light time for a few hours, or want to run lights and CO2 from independent timers, it won't work.

Most controllers only allow one zone working at a time, due to the limited amp output of the controller

The DIG controller allows two... Right now I am running one half of the lights from 10 - 10, and add the other half from 1 - 7. The CO2 is on a separate timer, but eventually I will combine it with the first bank of lights.


----------



## S&KGray

Thanks for the info, I have been researching some other types of controllers, this one says its capable of operating 3 solenoids simultaneously:

http://www.hunterindustries.com/products/Controllers/procspecs.html


----------



## Gatekeeper

Nice find!


----------



## jmhart

S&KGray said:


> Thanks for the info, I have been researching some other types of controllers, this one says its capable of operating 3 solenoids simultaneously:
> 
> http://www.hunterindustries.com/products/Controllers/procspecs.html


Yeah, good find. There are two trade offs. That controller only has 3 stations standard, so you'd have to purchase the expanding plug-in module. Not a big deal, just something to consider. 

Also, it's max program time is 6 hours. Again, not a big deal, you could just have two banks of lights, or have a short off period and then run it again for 2 hours or whatever. 


If you need to have 3 stations on at once, this is GREAT! But, for the sake of the thread, consider if you need/want 3 stations or if 2 will work. 

Thinking about it, I think the 3 station(capable of running all 3 at once), expanded up to 12 station, would make the whole thing EXTREMELY versatile.


----------



## Wasserpest

Along with the need to add more stations this becomes pretty expensive. About $130-150 and up, compared to the DIG which is sold locally at $33. If you include the relays, and a nice large power strip or even mountable case like Jens has been using, this comes awfully close to "real controller" price range.

The 6 hour limitation might or might not be a drag... if you could stack the times it would just turn off/on the lights for a second.

Also, from reading some reviews, they seem to have a reliability issue. I had similar problems with Toro controllers. The DIG is holding up just fine... until now.

If deemed necessary, I'd rather buy two of the DIG controllers and have the ability to run 4 stations at once, for up to 12 hours each. roud:


----------



## S&KGray

Yeah the DIG is looking more and more like the most economical choice. The Hunter models that have a 'D' program are the only ones that are made to run the stations longer than 2-6 hours (D program can run 12 hours for drip irrigation).


----------



## S&KGray

I got a used DIG 8006 for $12.98 shipped. Only thing wrong is the battery cover is missing. Also I must have been blind, but I found out that my local HD sells them too. I found them when picking up some pipe joint compound, across the aisle from the other brand irrigation controllers, etc. My HD has them for $32 and some change. Kind of amazing cause everything is usually more expensive here. :tongue:


----------



## Wasserpest

S&KGray said:


> My HD has them for $32 and some change. Kind of amazing cause everything is usually more expensive here. :tongue:


That's what you get for living in the paradise... Good luck with your controller, let us know how it turns out.


----------



## mistergreen

the orbit controller is a 6 station unit.
http://orbitlawnsprinklers.com/orbi...on-standard-indoor-mounted-control-timer.html
Can be found at LOWES
cost: $29

I'm going to make one using 24VDC relays. I'm using a diode to limit the current to 1 direction.. hopefully that fixes AC/DC issues.

cost: 50 cents relay + ~20 cents diode

vs a 24VAC relay: $17


----------



## Wasserpest

Looks like that one maxes out at 99 min (vs 12 hours for the DIG) runtime per station. Not good for lighting/CO2/longer things. And you'll need to look into the manual if it can run things parallel like the DIG - I doubt it. (Been there, checked that).

24VAC relays should be available at your favorite auction site for 2-4 dollars shipped. "Surplus" places often come up with good offers if you are not in a great hurry. But 50 cents for a DC relay is a nice price, if you can make it work.


----------



## mistergreen

Wasserpest said:


> Looks like that one maxes out at 99 min (vs 12 hours for the DIG) runtime per station. Not good for lighting/CO2/longer things. And you'll need to look into the manual if it can run things parallel like the DIG - I doubt it. (Been there, checked that).


ouch, didn't notice that. it can do 8 cycles though. So I can do 0-99, 99-298 etc... we'll see. Yeah, I'm worried about the parallel issue too. I'll have to open it up and see.



Wasserpest said:


> 24VAC relays should be available at your favorite auction site for 2-4 dollars shipped. "Surplus" places often come up with good offers if you are not in a great hurry. But 50 cents for a DC relay is a nice price, if you can make it work.


My dad who's an electrical engineer said it should work. If not, adding a capacitor should smooth out the current too.


----------



## mistergreen

Hey, So i got the DIG 8006 4-station in the mail today.
I'm checking if it's working right now. I plugged in the AC adaptor and all stations are in the off position and the station terminals are all reading 24V(really 26V)!... It should be 0V.
Am I missing something or is this defective?


----------



## Wasserpest

It has 6 zones, right?

Sounds defective though. 26VAC is correct, but if the terminals are hot when plugging it in something isn't switching right.


----------



## mistergreen

Yeah, weird right?
It's working now. I think on the off position, it's 25V, and on, it's 26V. Hooking a 'device' that offers resistance works. The voltmeter reading might be a false reading, not sure how that works.

Oh! And I got the 24VDC relay to work now too! Using a singe diode didn't work because it only created half-wave rectification... So I go this









1.4A, 100V Full-Wave Bridge Rectifiers
$1 at radio shack or 2 for $1 online.

Or I could have built it with 4 diode but I'm lazy.
I know how to make my own AC/DC adaptor now 

I'll post pictures later.


----------



## Wasserpest

Ah, yes, I forgot that the controller has some sort of short and open contact detection - it'll give you a warning if the connected solenoid is faulty.

The last batch of 24VAC relays (Omron) I bought on ebay for $2 each - so before you go too deep into DIY land, check that out too.


----------



## mistergreen

I wish I can find a 24VAC relay for that price, even the Omron is averaging $10 per unit. 

Well, it's built and up and running. Holly cow, a lot of effort is needed to make one of these things but fun.

Cheap DC relay with rectifier









The underside









Hooking things up in electrical boxes 

















After coating the connections with silicon so I don't get a short.









Final Product








The last 3 outlets are always hot.


----------



## Wasserpest

Awesome! Another little Wasser-Controller joins the crowd. How do you connect to the DIG? What do you control with the 4 outlets? Lights/fert pumps I assume...


----------



## mistergreen

The green wires go to the different stations in the DIG and the red is for the common.
So far it's controlling lights,CO2, and a power head that turn on at night. I have one left for ferts (a future project) or maybe a water changer.

If I need a lot more devices, I might go the route of making my own controller.


----------



## Wasserpest

My controller is maxed out:

1) Lights 1 (12 hours)
2) Lights 2 (6 hours)
3) Moonlights (2x 1 hour)
4) Macros (1 minute)
5) Micros (12 minutes)
6) Water change (15 minutes)

CO2 is running with Lights 1.


----------



## intermediate_noob

I think a few people have mentioned these controllers before (Arduino) but I thought these implementations were pretty cool. The idea of having everything accessible via a web interface and the capability for other monitoring/controlling capabilities (temperature and humidity) is great. I just wish I knew more about electronics! These three Instructables are from the same person but there are other links to other projects as well. Just thought I would share.

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-watering-controller-that-can-be-home-networked/

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-credit-card-sized-Ethernet-Arduino-compatable-co/

http://www.instructables.com/id/A-Remotely-Programable-Relay-Controller-Christmas/


----------



## mistergreen

That is neat. Thanks for the links.

I'll build an Ardiumo controller one of these days. I have an ardiuno laying around. 

But to make it accessible to the hobby, I think the user interface to these things have to be easy to use. Maybe it needs multiple interfaces like a web and a physical button interface with a small lcd screen.

It's why the irrigation controller is preferred at this point. It's fairly easy to set up and use.


----------



## mistergreen

Hey, check it..
I designed this module that'll work with the irrigation controller.
No soldering for people and hopefully will make it easier to setup and fairly cheap to produce.










And here are the instructions.









Sewingalot will get the first 3 modules.


----------



## airborne_r6

mistergreen said:


> Hey, check it..
> I designed this module that'll work with the irrigation controller.
> No soldering for people and hopefully will make it easier to setup and fairly cheap to produce.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here are the instructions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sewingalot will get the first 3 modules.


Are you willing to post up the schematics for your module or is it something you are hoping to market?


----------



## MoparMuscl

I've been wanting to build a Wasser-Controller for over 1.5 years. I had purchased about 1/2 of the parts over a year ago. I finally decided I was tired of messing with timers, so I got of my butt and finished the project. Here is the final result:


----------



## mistergreen

airborne_r6 said:


> Are you willing to post up the schematics for your module or is it something you are hoping to market?


oh, sorry.. I didn't see this.. I was going to make some and sell it in the SnS but it takes too long to make and there wouldn't be much demand for it.

I'll try to draw up a schematic for it when I can.


----------



## mistergreen

MoparMuscl said:


> I've been wanting to build a Wasser-Controller for over 1.5 years. I had purchased about 1/2 of the parts over a year ago. I finally decided I was tired of messing with timers, so I got of my butt and finished the project. Here is the final result:


That's ridiculously awesome. I bought a ethernet cord crimper recently. I'll have to redo my connections to the DIG using RJ jacks etc...


----------



## Gatekeeper

mistergreen said:


> That's ridiculously awesome. I bought a ethernet cord crimper recently. I'll have to redo my connections to the DIG using RJ jacks etc...


I made mine as well with the RJ45 connections, I even put a jack on the switch box.


----------



## S&KGray

Very nice Mopar.

Would these Omron 24VAC relays do the job?
Omron MY2 AC24 (S)

I got 8 of them for a little over $2 each.


----------



## MoparMuscl

S&KGray said:


> Very nice Mopar.
> 
> Would these Omron 24VAC relays do the job?
> Omron MY2 AC24 (S)
> 
> I got 8 of them for a little over $2 each.


They should, but they are only rated for 5A. I can't think of anything that should use over that, but I went with 10A relays. The ones I used are also extremely small.

http://www.drillspot.com/products/425786/Dayton_1EHC4_Relay


----------



## Jeff.:P:.

Some really nice DIYs everyone, not sure if anyone has seen these.

http://www.neptunesys.com/

checkem out, you can get some setups as low as $99. And used top systems for cheap on reefing forums.

I love my apex, online capabilities are amazing when on vacation to check on the tanks.


----------



## MoparMuscl

So I just found out that this DIG controller isn't what I thought it was. It can only operate two solenoids at once. After two are activated, it waits to start the next timer until one of the other solenoids finished its pre-programed time. CRAP! I was going to stagger the turning on and off of my lights, but I guess not anymore. Lights and CO2 is all she can do at the same time....


----------



## mistergreen

S&KGray said:


> Very nice Mopar.
> 
> Would these Omron 24VAC relays do the job?
> Omron MY2 AC24 (S)
> 
> I got 8 of them for a little over $2 each.



You should get relays rated for 15 amps or higher. Overheating and short-circuits could result otherwise. Just to be safe. The lighting fixtures could pull in a lot of current.

Your wall outlets are rated 15 or 20 amps and higher for the electric stove.


----------



## Wasserpest

S&KGray said:


> Very nice Mopar.
> 
> Would these Omron 24VAC relays do the job?
> Omron MY2 AC24 (S)
> 
> I got 8 of them for a little over $2 each.





MoparMuscl said:


> They should, but they are only rated for 5A. I can't think of anything that should use over that, but I went with 10A relays. The ones I used are also extremely small.
> 
> http://www.drillspot.com/products/425786/Dayton_1EHC4_Relay





mistergreen said:


> You should get relays rated for 15 amps or higher. Overheating and short-circuits could result otherwise. Just to be safe. The lighting fixtures could pull in a lot of current.
> 
> Your wall outlets are rated 15 or 20 amps and higher for the electric stove.


The 5A relays will be sufficient. 5A*110V = 550VA, so unless you have several 400W HQI's that need to be running off the same relay you won't ever get close to maxing them out. I don't see how this is related to wall outlets and electric stoves. Obviously, if you use your Wasser-Controller to turn on electric stoves or espresso machines you have to look into more heavy duty relays.:icon_bigg


----------



## mistergreen

true, I was just thinking about that.


----------



## MoparMuscl

*Wasser-Controller 2.0*

Here is my Wasser-Controller 2.0. I got fed up with not being able to run each set of light independently (I have 4 total 54W T5 bulbs), so I bought a second controller. This way I can run all my lights on one controller (two sets of two, and soon to be moon lights) and them my CO2 and anything else I would ever need on another. Tomorrow is the undertank cleanup to try and organize everything!


----------



## Gatekeeper

Looks great! May want to adjust the times on those to sync them up


----------



## Wasserpest

Nice, heavy duty! roud:

G - actually these display a countdown of the remaining on-time of whatever valve is active at the moment (or switches between two active ones, or display the time if nothing is "on" at the moment).

Looks like it was 7:02 pm when the picture was taken, and valve 3 was active on the second controller, for a remainder of 3 hrs and 26 min. 

I am amazed at how well these keep the time... even after years they are still true to the second.


----------



## mistergreen

Ha nice, 2 DIGs.
I think at this point, making a micro-controller with 12+ channels might be more cost effective although technically tough.

I've notice a time drift actually. Overtime, about 6 months now, it has drifted 5 minutes in the duration.


----------



## MoparMuscl

Gatekeeper said:


> Looks great! May want to adjust the times on those to sync them up


Wasserpest has it spot on in his post.




Wasserpest said:


> Nice, heavy duty! roud:


Thanks! I should say thank YOU for the great idea!


----------



## epond83

I have a quick question, I have some exsperince wiring and what not and plan to do this in the future.

How do you wire the switches to override the relay so noting bad happens if both turn on at the same time. I know it was mentioned to do it in parallel, but i was wondering if some one could explain that a little or show a quick simple diagram on that part. I get how everything else works.

Thanks!


----------



## MoparMuscl

epond83 said:


> I have a quick question, I have some exsperince wiring and what not and plan to do this in the future.
> 
> How do you wire the switches to override the relay so noting bad happens if both turn on at the same time. I know it was mentioned to do it in parallel, but i was wondering if some one could explain that a little or show a quick simple diagram on that part. I get how everything else works.
> 
> Thanks!



You get the power for the relay from the same spot the switch gets power from. They the output of the relay goes to the same spot that the switch powers. It doesn't hurt anything to have the switch override the relay because at that point in time the relay is an open circuit. Even if the relay coils were hot and the relay was a closed circuit, it still would not matter if the switch were on. The connections start and end at the same spot. Make sense?


----------



## epond83

So the switch is 24v so that the controller or the switch can flip the relay, and activate the outlet.

I was thinking the switch would be 120v and i was confused how that would work safely.


----------



## MoparMuscl

epond83 said:


> So the switch is 24v so that the controller or the switch can flip the relay, and activate the outlet.
> 
> I was thinking the switch would be 120v and i was confused how that would work safely.


No, I guess I didn't do a good job explaining. The relay coils are activated by 24VAC. The override switch is 110VAC. They don't have anything to do with each other.

The power supply has a power distribution 'strip' that is always 'hot'. This goes to once side of the 110VAC switch. I tapped into this and got power for the input on the contact side of the relay. The power supply have 9 outlets on the back. Each one has an individual wire going from the outlet to the switch, again 110VAC. This is what makes it 'hot' when the switch is on. I wired the output side of the relay contact to this wire. Therefore, when the relay is on it just simulates the switch being turned on. Make sense this time?


----------



## epond83

Ok now this makes even more since! Thank you.

So if the switch is powering the device and the controller activates, the relay switches power sources and contines to acitvate the device. This sounds nice and safe.

Now i just need to buy the upgrade tank so i can start building.


----------



## epond83

While planning this project out i was reading the manul for the DIG 5006, i can't find the 8006 and it looks the same, i think it's the replacement for it.

I noticed there is a spot inside for a master valve that no one has been using. So does this activated at the same each of the other valves is on? Not sure if this would be useful as i guess you can hook up as much as you want to each valve.

Just though this might be something useful over looked.


----------



## Wasserpest

epond83 said:


> I noticed there is a spot inside for a master valve that no one has been using. So does this activated at the same each of the other valves is on? Not sure if this would be useful as i guess you can hook up as much as you want to each valve.
> 
> Just though this might be something useful over looked.


Never to late to respond... :hihi:

The master valve circuit will always be powered on if any of the other six circuits power on. It's meant to be a backup solution in case something breaks or for some reason a valve gets stuck in "constant on mode".

Say you have six different irrigation zones connected to one fat water pipe. You could add a seventh valve into this pipe and connect it to the master circuit of the controller. Now if one of the six valves gets stuck, the master will still shut the water off after the programmed run-time.

Not really useful for our mostly relay-driven application. If you could program it to be powered on only with selected circuits, then yes, that would be sweet (for a third "something" running while 2 others run). For example, if you could program it to run only with circuits 1 and 2, circuit 1 switches on one light, and the master would be connected to CO2, then circuit 2 would switch on the second set of light, all while set one and CO2 are running.

But I can't think of anything that would need to run parallel to all lights, CO2, dosing, and moonlights.


----------



## Craigthor

Anyone still using these? Considering building a pair of them if I can find all the parts. Would want to use the rack mount switches to make it nice and clean. Here is my issue though. I would need to turn on 3 150 watt MHs with one of the channels but also split it to 3 switches. Ideas or suggestions?


----------



## epond83

I'm building one right now. I have two different lights controlled by one channel. One relay has to two lines attached which go to two outlets.


----------



## jmhart

Craigthor said:


> Anyone still using these? Considering building a pair of them if I can find all the parts. Would want to use the rack mount switches to make it nice and clean. Here is my issue though. I would need to turn on 3 150 watt MHs with one of the channels but also split it to 3 switches. Ideas or suggestions?


That'd be easy. You could use a 6 port relay to control all three lights on, but wire that to three of the switches, and control it with one channel.

However, if you're going to devote 3 switches on the rack mount to three lights, I'd go ahead, spend $5 bucks and wire in three relays. Then, in the future, if you wanted to control the lights separtely, it'd be easy. In this situation, just wire the 3 relays to the same control channel. 

Bottom line, just wire it up like everybody else has done who are controlling multiple lights, but instead of wiring each light bank (with it's own relay) to a separate channel, wire them all to the same channel on the irrigation controller.


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## GraphicGr8s

jmhart said:


> That'd be easy. You could use a 6 port relay to control all three lights on, but wire that to three of the switches, and control it with one channel.
> 
> However, if you're going to devote 3 switches on the rack mount to three lights, I'd go ahead, spend $5 bucks and wire in three relays. Then, in the future, if you wanted to control the lights separtely, it'd be easy. In this situation, just wire the 3 relays to the same control channel.
> 
> Bottom line, just wire it up like everybody else has done who are controlling multiple lights, but instead of wiring each light bank (with it's own relay) to a separate channel, *wire them all to the same channel on the irrigation controller.*


You've got to watch the VA rating of the transformer and make sure the relays are less than that. Since it's 24 volts you could also use fan relays from an A/C supply house. I've got an irrigation controller I built 20 years ago with them, an a/c transformer and the timer from a coffee maker.


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## Wasserpest

The power supply of the DIG8006 has a 20VA rating. The relays that I use suck up about 1 Watt, so no problem. Good point not to overload the transformer.


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## Craigthor

Thanks guys think I will do a bit more research on this, unless someone wants to build me a couple of these.


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## GraphicGr8s

Wasserpest said:


> The power supply of the DIG8006 has a 20VA rating. The relays that I use suck up about 1 Watt, so no problem. Good point not to overload the transformer.


The wattage rating is only part of the story and in general applies to a resistive load. VA ratings do not fully correspond to watts because a coil also has inductive properties. Look at the VA rating not the wattage.


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## mistergreen

[strike]Does anybody knows how to delete a start time on the DIG? I have 2 start times and would like to delete one.[/strike]

Never mind, found the answer. You have to cycle through the time till it hits off.


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## Craigthor

Looks like the only challenge will be finding a couple of DIG 8006s. Emailed a few places found one haven't ordered it yet but may jsut get it coming this way.


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## Wasserpest

Over here they are sold in Home Depots. Might be worth a call/try.


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## Craigthor

Wasserpest said:


> Over here they are sold in Home Depots. Might be worth a call/try.


Unfortunately no such luck here or the HD web site. If you see a couple let me know as I'm still doing some research on what I want to do.

Criag


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## Craigthor

So what I am thinking is to use one controllers 2 on channels to run 5 switches of the 9 available. Here is what I was thinking let me know if it sounds feasible.

Outlet 1- Channel 1 switch 1 T5HO 10 hrs
Outlet 2- Channel 1 switch 2 CO2
Outlet 3- Channel 2 switch 1 150 watt MH
Outlet 4- Channel 2 switch 2 150 watt MH
Outlet 5- Channel 2 switch 3 150 watt MH
Outlet 6- Channel 3 switch 1 Moon Lights (opposite channel 2)
Outlet 7- Channel 4 switch 1 UV Sterilizer (opposiste channel 1)
Outlet 8-
Outlet 9- 

My plan would be to use seperate relays for each outlet but share the channel for channels 1 and 2 settins to multiple outlets.

I would probably grab a second 9 outlet rack mount for all my other always on equipment though as that would make it easiest for me. and spread the load out.

Atleast those are my thought at this second.

Craig


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## Gatekeeper

You know you can only have two active zone switches at a time right?


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## Wasserpest

Craigthor said:


> Unfortunately no such luck here or the HD web site. If you see a couple let me know as I'm still doing some research on what I want to do.
> 
> Criag


I can probably check next Tuesday. Incl shipping they should run around $45. Please pm me if you want me to check.

The program you described sounds good. If you want to stagger the lights, adding a second controller like some have described in this thread would work. With 3x150W you need to look at the wattage that the relay contacts can handle (unless you put them on three different relays).


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## epond83

The switch rack is rated at 15 amps with a fuse so don't over load that either.


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## Wasserpest

Our HD still sells the DIG8006. If you want to build a WC and can't find the controller locally or online shoot me a pm. With tax and shipping it would cost you $47.


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## Craigthor

I may have to take you up on this, will need to wait till next payday but I could use 2 of them. The ones I was susposed to get locally werent even close to the right thing... LOL at the employee helping me over the phone.

Craig


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## epond83

not trying to advertise here but I had the same problem finding one, I got a good deal on smarthome .com also customer service from dig is great! I had a bad transformer, called them up and they sent one out right away for free. Zero hold time, no automated system.


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## S&KGray

Wasserpest said:


> Our HD still sells the DIG8006.


Yep, they still sell it at HD here at $33 each if I remember correctly. I still haven't got around to completing my WC. :tongue:


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## Wasserpest

Just as an update - looks like the (my) controller has been working flawlessly for 5 years. Not bad! Every other year I change the 9V battery to keep its settings memorized in case the power goes out. Twice a year the time is adjusted for Summer/Winter time. The precision of how this thing keeps time is pretty amazing, I am talking about few seconds/year fluctuation.

Only thing I wish would be to have EIGHT independent channels instead of six. But for most smaller tanks (this one runs a 250gal tank) six should be sufficient.

Few DIYs go that well and last that long. :fish:


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## jmhart

Wasserpest said:


> Just as an update - looks like the (my) controller has been working flawlessly for 5 years. Not bad! Every other year I change the 9V battery to keep its settings memorized in case the power goes out. Twice a year the time is adjusted for Summer/Winter time. The precision of how this thing keeps time is pretty amazing, I am talking about few seconds/year fluctuation.
> 
> Only thing I wish would be to have EIGHT independent channels instead of six. But for most smaller tanks (this one runs a 250gal tank) six should be sufficient.
> 
> Few DIYs go that well and last that long. :fish:




Good to hear. I built mine in early 2010, and it's still working great. I've had to change the 9V once. I built it like Jens with the built in rack mount. I really enjoy the rack mount so I really easily override the timer and turn on lights or do an extra shot of fertilizers. 

It was fun to build, holds up well, and does the job at a fraction of the price of turn key controllers on the market. 

10/10, would build again.


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## jflng

This DIY is worth bringing back up once in a while. It's been a long time since anyone has posted anything here, so I'll move it to the top with a bad cell phone pic of the Wasser-Controller I recently built:










It's not pretty, but it doesn't really have to be. It works great, and should (hopefully) power everything I need for two aquarium racks. 

I made two power stations that I can plug into separate wall sockets (separate breakers) next to each rack. I liked the CAT5 disconnects discussed in this thread, but decided to use thermostat wire and DMX plugs on this build.

Thanks for this idea Wasserpest, and thanks to everybody else in this thread! I should have built one of these years ago!


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## monkeyruler90

thinking about building one of these suckers


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## lovingHDTV

I used the one I made in 2009 until a few weeks ago. I replaced it with the iAqua. It is now sitting in my closet because I don't have the heart to through it out.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


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## mistergreen

lovingHDTV said:


> I used the one I made in 2009 until a few weeks ago. I replaced it with the iAqua. It is now sitting in my closet because I don't have the heart to through it out.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk


You can always use parts from it in other projects. Let the electronics hoarding begin!


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## Wasserpest

lovingHDTV said:


> I used the one I made in 2009 until a few weeks ago. I replaced it with the iAqua. It is now sitting in my closet because I don't have the heart to through it out.


Same here - mine has outlived the tank it controlled for > 5 years. Disconnected, but ready for any future projects. 
I don't even have the heart to sell it. :x


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