# Waterflow question



## ianizaguirre (Jan 25, 2011)

my tank has water movement on the left side of the tank but when i look at the right side its very very little to none maybe a slight ripple, is that fine? because i might put shrimp in it and maybe some fish (its a planted tank) so wont the little flow mean little oxygen for the inverts and fish but its still good for the plants? or it doesnt matter as long as thiers a little flow ( no agitation)?
and another question if i just set up the tank and the tank has brand new AZOO substrate when should i start dosing ferts? or should i just wait a little because the substrate has nurtients in it for now?


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

A reasonable amount of water flow throughout the tank assures that each organism gets a renewed supply of whatever water borne things it needs, and that wastes are removed. 

Oxygen
carbon dioxide
Fertilizer
Solid waste
Minerals that are plant nutrients
Temperature stability

are all part of the benefits of proper water movement. 
If the water movement is chaotic then some areas are dead, or just eddy around, when other areas are well supplied with the things they need. 

Optimum way to set up water movement is actually the original way most filters work. Easiest is to explain with a HOB filter. Water sheets across the top of the tank, about in the middle. This draws some more water from the surface and near the surface. This water hits the front glass and mostly goes down. Then it hits the substrate, and is directed back toward the intake. As it sweeps across the substrate it picks up fallen food, poop, and so on, carrying it to the filter intake. 
Such is theory. 
In a heavily planted tank there is a lot to interrupt this flow. Find those dead areas and supplement the flow with a power head. Keep the flow lined up with the flow from the filter, to enhance it, to make it better. Do not set up the power head to push the water at cross paths with the filter. 

The surface ought to have gentle ripples. Anything that drifts in the water (try some slowly sinking fish food) ought not to settle on the floor of the tank, but get carried toward the filter intake. Heavier food would land on the bottom. Might get pushed around a bit. Floating food would drift around on the surface until it gets water logged, then sink. 
If you follow a bit of leaf or some fish food, and it just goes around and around in a small area, then the water circulation is not so great. Move something until the water follows a clear path around the tank, and all the water is moving, not just eddying around.


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## ianizaguirre (Jan 25, 2011)

Diana said:


> A reasonable amount of water flow throughout the tank assures that each organism gets a renewed supply of whatever water borne things it needs, and that wastes are removed.
> 
> Oxygen
> carbon dioxide
> ...


 
Thanks for the answer ... right now my tank filteration is a rio powerhead the water it draws is directed to a substrate reactor filled with poly cloth and then it is shot back into the tank. what i am thinking of doing is since the output of the hose that goes backinto the tank is 1/2 inches i might just get a piece of pvc that splits into 3 smaller size holes and attach 3 small tubes and run one in the middle and the other two on each end.

I want to try to limit the amount of equipment in the tank so another powerhead is out of the question. i am doing a paludarium with a heavily planted aquatic section. my tank is a 37 gallons. and thier is 6 1/2 inches of water.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I suspect you're probably OK in terms of oxygenation, but just a powerhead won't give you any filtration at all unless you put a sponge prefilter on it.

I'm sure you'll be able to work it as is, but I'd personally want to incorporate more mechanical filtration into the setup somehow.

Debris buildups can contribute to algae and water parameter issues.


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## ianizaguirre (Jan 25, 2011)

i find it strange that my tank has been set up for a week and i have no algea and i have drift wood and plants in the tank


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

Without higher light, a week is a bit short of a period of time for anything (including algae) to grow in abundance.


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## ianizaguirre (Jan 25, 2011)

When should i expect algea? 
and when should i start dosing ferts if i just got brand new Azoo sub.
and is it nessassary right now because the sub is new and has nutrients??


- I also noticed some death on my plants is this a normal phase? do they appear to do bad and then start growing when they get used to the tank?


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

How much lighting do you have? What kind of bulbs are you using? There are a lot of factors that you have left out.

However, if you are not getting algae, then I would just stay with whatever you regimen you have. If you start to notice algae, then it may be due to excess lights, lack of nutrients, lack of CO2, etc.

If you have a high light aquarium, fertilization should start immediately.

As for the death of some of your plants, it could be that they are melting back a little, as they are adapting to new water conditions.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Yes, it is normal for plants to die back as they acclimate to a new tank.

You can watch your plants for nutrient deficiencies to see when/if you need to start dosing.


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## ianizaguirre (Jan 25, 2011)

how can i tell about lack of nutrients? and i saw one snail in my tank already i guess that means 1,000 more are going to appear ...


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## ianizaguirre (Jan 25, 2011)

37 gallon tank i am useing the 4, 24 watt bulb odyssea fixture T5 HO. right now it has 2 atinics and 2 10k dayligh bulbs when i see the bulbs failing ill buy 4 normal plant bulbs


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## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

i think you should do everything the way you should, including co2 right from the start. 

algae is easier to prevent than it is to get rid of


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Holes, discolorations, curling leaves... post closeup pics of the plants up on the forum and ask...


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