# DIY: Tank Cooling Fan w/ Thermostat?



## Optix (May 31, 2011)

post the item number...ebay links get deleted


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Oppsy! I didn't know : )

Item number: 380366302001


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## Optix (May 31, 2011)

@$27 it seems kinda expensive for 2 fans...and the temp sensing seems unneeded


why not just get a fan and transformer (probably half the price) and hook it up to a timer? and just play with it til you get it to where you want it? tho Im curious, how hot is your tank getting? summer is almost over ya kno
to your local Radioshack!!


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

I was hoping there are cheap thermostat systems where the fan would only come on when the water temp gets past 78F or something like that. I saw that on some forums awhile back, but they didn't say how they made it. Seems pretty neat since I won't need the fan running all the time or only on at certain times when the timer switch on.

In my town it looks like summers just starting. LoL. Its been pretty warm lately.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

I ordered 2 of these:
Ebay search "110v aquarium thermostat" item 120774106366 

They're $20 shipped. But the temperature sensor is waterproof so should work fine submerged. I also got some cheap $1.50 extension cords I'll use to make the plugs for my tank fans. And as a bonus it can also be connected to a heater. So too hot, fan comes on. Too cold, heater comes on.

I haven't gotten them yet, but it appears to be the cheapest way to do it. Crossing my fingers it works and I don't electrocute myself in the process.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Is there a thermostat system that works like a digital timer?

Basically something that plugs into the wall and you set its "off" and "on temp". So whatever you plug into it will turn on once it passes a certain temp? That would be much easier and reduce the risk of electrocution : )


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I bought a box of 4 coolermaster 120mm fans for 10 bucks, they run super silent and are real good at cooling down my tanks. A thermostat would be pretty cool though because right now I have them hooked up to my light timer, makes my water evaporate pretty quick.


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## zdnet (Aug 13, 2010)

NeoShrimp said:


> Will this work? [Ebay Link Removed]


Probably not what you would expect. There is no temperature controller for turning the fans on or off. What you are getting is just two PC cooling fans connected to a power adapter. Therefore, the fans will NOT run faster or slower to compensate for the temperature change.




NeoShrimp said:


> Or are there other (cheaper) methods to do a PC fan hooked up to a tank for cooling?
> 
> I can't find thermostats where you just plug an outlet in or something and it comes one room temp gets past a certain degree, like a light timer essentially, for under $10 :frown:


I use the Ranco ETC-111000-000 Digital Temperature Controller.


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## PC1 (May 21, 2010)

I use the Ranco ETC-111000-000 Digital Temperature Controller.[/QUOTE]

+1 a little costly but well worth the money. I have 3 fans in 3 tanks pluged into 1 power strip controlled by the ranco. Each tank holds virtually the same temp. 71-72 deg try looking for one on ebay you can sometimes score a good deal.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

I have found some thermostats that are designed for reptiles and such but it is not digital. There is a knob you have to work with in trial and error as to when it should come on or turn off. Kinda pesky.

Having a digital thermostat to plug your fan in beats clicking the fan on/off everyday, but I don't think anything over $20 for one is worth it for what it can do. Mind as well leave the fan on all day when its summer time and just turn it off at night : )


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

RandomMan said:


> I ordered 2 of these:
> Ebay search "110v aquarium thermostat" item 120774106366
> 
> They're $20 shipped. But the temperature sensor is waterproof so should work fine submerged. I also got some cheap $1.50 extension cords I'll use to make the plugs for my tank fans. And as a bonus it can also be connected to a heater. So too hot, fan comes on. Too cold, heater comes on.
> ...


I looked at your suggestion but from the picture, I don't understand how to connect the power of the adapter for the fan to it. There is no actual "plug" like a digital timer would have. 

Looks like a really opened system, don't want to risk getting my bf electrocuted since he'll be taking care of this stuff. :frown:


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## shrimpNewbie (May 6, 2011)

my tanks seem to do okay with the changing temps, about 83 mid day if my ac isnt on and around 77 early morning before the heat comes back all fish are healthy and eat like they are starving all of the time, unless your temps are going way over 85 I wouldnt worry too much, if you had coral and sensitive salt water fish that would be a problem, or even cold water species. but i assume you have tropics?


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

If I am not raising CRS then the heat would actually be a plus for my other shrimps, but since CRS struggle in temps 80F and above, that gets me worried : (


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## zdnet (Aug 13, 2010)

NeoShrimp said:


> If I am not raising CRS then the heat would actually be a plus for my other shrimps, but since CRS struggle in temps 80F and above, that gets me worried : (


IMHO, unless you got your CRS dirt cheap, a temperature controller is well worth it.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

zdnet said:


> IMHO, unless you got your CRS dirt cheap, a temperature controller is well worth it.


ATM I have A-S+ grades only and actually not that many. Focusing on trying to keep them alive and hopefully breeding them is my goal first before venturing out to anything else "big". Perhaps then I would certainly think about it but for now, I can keep the temps between 68-74F with the clip on fan I have on the tank. I don't have a problem with running it 24/7 when the temp gets warm : )


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

I was just reading up the sink's Arduino code for lighting and I got interested in trying to learn it. First thing I thought of was this thread. It won't be cheap but heck of a lot gratifying to be able to put together a DIY temperature sensor/controller.

I think I'll put my insteon project on hold and give the Arduino a try


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

This is what I found that fits the price range. Looks like its any good?

http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovato...rolled/dp/B0007P5K1W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


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## zdnet (Aug 13, 2010)

NeoShrimp said:


> This is what I found that fits the price range. Looks like its any good?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Farm-Innovato...rolled/dp/B0007P5K1W/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


It is NOT for monitoring water temperature.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

zdnet said:


> It is NOT for monitoring water temperature.


That true, but since the tank in my room, it is pretty much at room temp, this shouldn't be too far off. If anything its gonna keep it even cooler since if my room temp is 72F, my tank temp only reads around 70F, that is what I've noticed.


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## zdnet (Aug 13, 2010)

NeoShrimp said:


> That true, but since the tank in my room, it is pretty much at room temp, this shouldn't be too far off. If anything its gonna keep it even cooler since if my room temp is 72F, my tank temp only reads around 70F, that is what I've noticed.


Those outlets come with a fixed temperature range. For instance, there is one that turns on at 78 and off a 70. Therefore, unless your room temperature reaches 78, your fans won't be on. After the fans are on, to have them off, your room temperature will have to drop 8 degrees to 70. Will your room temperature ever drop that low?


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

zdnet said:


> Those outlets come with a fixed temperature range. For instance, there is one that turns on at 78 and off a 70. Therefore, unless your room temperature reaches 78, your fans won't be on. After the fans are on, to have them off, your room temperature will have to drop 8 degrees to 70. Will your room temperature ever drop that low?


You make a good point. I can just plug this into the outlet right next to my window. It gets to mid 60's there sometimes when its a cool day. Hope that works : )


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## accordztech (Dec 6, 2004)

Can you just put a inline radiator like the PC guys do for water cooling, with a fan attached to it?


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

accordztech said:


> Can you just put a inline radiator like the PC guys do for water cooling, with a fan attached to it?


I wonder how this would work...


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## accordztech (Dec 6, 2004)

NeoShrimp said:


> I wonder how this would work...


It seems like it would work. Put a pump inline with enough head pressure. THen through a radiator that has fans mounted on it. 

I think that it will only be able to cool to ambient temps, however usually ambient temps are cooler than inside the tank.


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## CWO4GUNNER (Nov 30, 2010)

Actually if your tank is made of glass not acrylic and your room ambient temperature is lower or higher then your tank between 78-81F, having a rotating telescopic fan blow against the center front or back-hidden center of the tank turning from side to side down the tanks length will lower or raise the tanks temp to room temp and keep the tank at room temperature as glass is a very poor thermal insulator. Actually a very good good quality becasue its cheaper to cool or heat your tank using room temperature then allot of separate tank heating and cooling high wattage. A cheap telescopic rotating fan cost about $15-20 and uses only 45W but against a glass tank (2-feet away) will maintain a 150G tank at ambient room temperature after the 1st 24 to 48 hours of fan cooling adjustment. I have come to lean that the insulating qualities of acrylic actually works against you in your ability to easily and cheaply control temp, at least in the SW anyway, for this reason I am getting rid of my acrylics and sticking with all glass from now on.


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## zdnet (Aug 13, 2010)

accordztech said:


> It seems like it would work. Put a pump inline with enough head pressure. THen through a radiator that has fans mounted on it.


A radiator has many sharp angles making it almost impossible to clean.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

I just had my bf order a couple of computer fans to attach it to our timer. So when our lights are on, the fans would come as well to reduce the heat from the lights : )


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Anyone tried this with a thermostat yet? : )


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## zdnet (Aug 13, 2010)

NeoShrimp said:


> Anyone tried this with a thermostat yet? : )


For a 5-gallon tank, I use the Ranco ETC-111000 thermostat to control the PC cooling fan Cooler Master 80mm Ball Bearing Case Fan Black - (SAF-B83-E1). As recommended by the article "How to Wire a Ranco ETC-111000 Thermostat", I wired a power bar to the thermostat. That gives me the option of plugging in multiple fans when one is not sufficient. With a simple panel re-programming, the thermostat can be configured to control a heater.

BTW, there is the very expensive Aqua Medic Arctic Breeze - a bank of cooling fans for aquarium.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Thanks for showing us. As for the Aqua Medic Arctic Breeze, I believe the price is pretty steep for just more complex computer fans.


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

accordztech said:


> Can you just put a inline radiator like the PC guys do for water cooling, with a fan attached to it?





NeoShrimp said:


> I wonder how this would work...


Well, as a PC water cooling enthusiast (and extreme cooling with dry ice and liquid nitrogen), I can safely say that this won't work at all.



accordztech said:


> It seems like it would work. Put a pump inline with enough head pressure. THen through a radiator that has fans mounted on it.
> 
> *I think that it will only be able to cool to ambient temps, however usually ambient temps are cooler than inside the tank.*


This. Unless you use an evaporative cooling method (like my DIY evaporator bong I made to cool down my computer instead of using radiators, which turned out badly, btw, temperature dropped to 8°C below ambient and my computer condensated and destroyed ~$800 worth of equipment), or a pelitier-type cooler (basically like aquarium chillers) you will NEVER cool below ambient. I have a lot more radiator on my system than necessary, and it still never drops below 24°C (ambient for me).


zdnet said:


> A radiator has many sharp angles making it almost impossible to clean.


And the fact that it's sealed, so you can't exactly clean it. If it gets gunked up, your only hope is vinegar and a very high-powered pump.


And for anyone interested, here is my latest iteration of my computer's water-cooling system (sorry she's messy, my spare time for the past few months has all gone into my tanks):


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> Thanks for showing us. As for the Aqua Medic Arctic Breeze, I believe the price is pretty steep for just more complex computer fans.


Yeah, seriously, they're probably using _very_ cheap Yate-Loon D12SL fans (low speed 120mm) at about $3 apiece retail, and a cheap aluminum holder. Can fairly simply be made for ~$30-40.

Hell, I've got ~8x of those fans sitting here from last water cooling experiment with a ginormous Honda radiator, and I'm a cardboard master, so it would pretty much cost me nothing.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

jedimasterben said:


> Yeah, seriously, they're probably using _very_ cheap Yate-Loon D12SL fans (low speed 120mm) at about $3 apiece retail, and a cheap aluminum holder. Can fairly simply be made for ~$30-40.
> 
> Hell, I've got ~8x of those fans sitting here from last water cooling experiment with a ginormous Honda radiator, and I'm a cardboard master, so it would pretty much cost me nothing.


I see. You have a very complex system going on right there. All I can say is I am :confused1: when I look at it. Lol.


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

yeah, water cooling will only drop to ambient, never better unless you have a chiller involved too. :/


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> I see. You have a very complex system going on right there. All I can say is I am :confused1: when I look at it. Lol.


It's very confusing (and very expensive) starting out with something like that, but once you understand what basic parts it needs, it's like "Oh. Duh, that makes perfect sense!


HolyAngel said:


> yeah, water cooling will only drop to ambient, never better unless you have a chiller involved too. :/


Or stick some dry ice in the reservoir... but who would do that?


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

jedimasterben said:


> It's very confusing (and very expensive) starting out with something like that, but once you understand what basic parts it needs, it's like "Oh. Duh, that makes perfect sense!
> 
> Or stick some dry ice in the reservoir... but who would do that?


Have you started on this project yet?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I use a few pc and xbox 360 fans and pretty much just position them full on the tank, half on off, at different angles, etc till it reachs the proper temp and keep it there. Just found a old charger from a cordless phone that was 12v, cut the wires, soldered the fans on and use that for power. I run a electronic repair biz though, so I have lots of different sized fans and such to find one that works. Sometimes I'll wake up and it will be a bit cool like 68 or something but the crystals seem fine with the cooler water and it warms back up as the day warms up to 72 and it seems to keep it steady there.


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> Have you started on this project yet?


What project? A diy cooler for my tank? Nah, not planning anything like that til I can figure out where I want the goldfish tank to live. Just added a local emersed flowering plant to it (the plant is four feet tall at the highest point!), so I'm not sure where it will end up (probably near a window since this plant loves as much sunlight as possible), and if it's in the living room, I don't think my wife would appreciate a diy solution as much as I would lol.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

jedimasterben said:


> And for anyone interested, here is my latest iteration of my computer's water-cooling system (sorry she's messy, my spare time for the past few months has all gone into my tanks):


lol nice system..

Heres where i am coming from.. :T










BTW canister filter tubing has plasticizers leech and its BAD... i see clear floating things in my fish tank... 
Dayam i should of pulled out the Primochill LRT tubing i had for PC's and used that instead like the pics above. 



Hey op, a fan on top of the fish tank will only allow your tank to get at best a few C's below ambient. 
Your still working with a big wall called ambient, and if your running a glass tank, the glass wont insulate enough for evap to reduce temperatures significantly. 

A chiller is looked at when you need to go much lower then ambient.

Example.. guys here say CRS will have a hard time over 80F. 
So if your ambients were 85F, a fan is pointless over the water, you need a full blown chiller.

now u see why i had that metal question for our fish tank... i am in your shoes and trying to think of an aqarium safe chiller using the watercooling chillers for PC.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

GeToChKn said:


> I use a few pc and xbox 360 fans and pretty much just position them full on the tank, half on off, at different angles, etc till it reachs the proper temp and keep it there. Just found a old charger from a cordless phone that was 12v, cut the wires, soldered the fans on and use that for power. I run a electronic repair biz though, so I have lots of different sized fans and such to find one that works. Sometimes I'll wake up and it will be a bit cool like 68 or something but the crystals seem fine with the cooler water and it warms back up as the day warms up to 72 and it seems to keep it steady there.


Your Xbox must be broken or you are very rich! Lol. J/k. How big at the xbox fans btw? So I guess you have the fan on 24/7 then? I am curious to know where I can purchase little switches for the fan, you know the tiny ones in RC cars and stuff, the very basic On/Off ones. My bf told me that would be best but we don't have those "toys", don't know where to find one.



jedimasterben said:


> What project? A diy cooler for my tank? Nah, not planning anything like that til I can figure out where I want the goldfish tank to live. Just added a local emersed flowering plant to it (the plant is four feet tall at the highest point!), so I'm not sure where it will end up (probably near a window since this plant loves as much sunlight as possible), and if it's in the living room, I don't think my wife would appreciate a diy solution as much as I would lol.


I see. Thanks for showing us though.



Naekuh said:


> lol nice system..
> 
> Heres where i am coming from.. :T
> 
> ...


This was suppose to be this week's project but the package got lost somewhere in the mail. Got our refund and was going to order 2 more but then realized in this time of year, our tank won't go past 78F anyhow so we'll just wait on the project till later.

A few C's only? Not too bad, wouldn't want it TOO cold but this is certainly very useful to keep in mind from you "So if your ambients were 85F, a fan is pointless over the water, you need a full blown chiller." Thanks!


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> A few C's only? Not too bad, wouldn't want it TOO cold but this is certainly very useful to keep in mind from you "So if your ambients were 85F, a fan is pointless over the water, you need a full blown chiller." Thanks!


below ambient... however i think you'll be lucky if u get more then 1C. 

relatively speaking.. its using the evap of water and themodynamics aka the Bong chiller concept... 

wont bore ya with it... but yeah fans wont help.
Fans over water is more meant for your ambients are 75F, yet with 1000W in lighting it raises your water temp to 85F. 

then a fan would help u bring the temp down... 

But mainly u need to look at the ambients around the tank, and how cool you want to the tank in relationship to ambients.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Naekuh said:


> below ambient... however i think you'll be lucky if u get more then 1C.
> 
> relatively speaking.. its using the evap of water and themodynamics aka the Bong chiller concept...
> 
> ...


Thanks for the info. Perhaps the best example in this case is make it realistic.

I have (2) 13W fixtures (you can see how the light is set up from my planted tank journal below) and at the base of the fixtures, the little "hinge/clamp" has a 1/2 lip and about 80mm long. My bf was thinking of just hot gluing the clear acrylic 80mm PC fans to it. The fan is pretty light so I guess he assume its not too stressful on the glued parts. 

So the fan would be blowing air "into" the surface of the water at perhaps just 5mm above the water surface when the tank is absolutely full.

*Q: 
Will the position of the fans be too close to the water surface and would create splashing even from a 80mm PC fan? 
Because of the closeness, would it help? 
Is it better to blow air in, or blow air out from the water surface?*


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> *Q:
> Will the position of the fans be too close to the water surface and would create splashing even from a 80mm PC fan?
> Because of the closeness, would it help?
> Is it better to blow air in, or blow air out from the water surface?*


fans blowing directly at the lighting will give you best results if you think your lighting is whats causing the overall heat.

Fans blowing at the water will increase evap which means u will need to replace all the evaporated water, as well as keep the heat coming from the lights off.

This may also help keep your tank temp down, but as i said, your talking about very little surface area evap compared to the overall vol. of the tank.

once again this is relative... were just looking at basic thermo at the moment.


If your running a glass tank, the glass walls will also greatly effect the tank temperature in relationship to ambient... (Depends with the thickness of glass, a 125 Gal, with thick glass is less prone to this vs a 10gal.) 
Ambient = the temperature of air outside the tank aka room temperature.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Naekuh said:


> fans blowing directly at the lighting will give you best results if you think your lighting is whats causing the overall heat.
> 
> Fans blowing at the water will increase evap which means u will need to replace all the evaporated water, as well as keep the heat coming from the lights off.
> 
> ...


It is hard to decide which direction we should position the fans. Blowing into the light is good to keep it cool but no direct "cooling" for the tank and not helping much surface agitation that we hope to gain to get as much O2 into the water as possible.


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## PC1 (May 21, 2010)

Also depends greatly on ambient room temp. In the warmer months if your lights give off a lot of heat and your room temp is also warm then you will probably need a fan across the lights and a fan across the water if you have low temp loving shrimp. Winter month just dispersing heat from the light may be enough.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

PC1 said:


> Also depends greatly on ambient room temp. In the warmer months if your lights give off a lot of heat and your room temp is also warm then you will probably need a fan across the lights and a fan across the water if you have low temp loving shrimp. Winter month just dispersing heat from the light may be enough.


Geesh, this is a hard one! Lol. So I have two fixture, going to get 2 fans sooner or later, but hard to decide on direction of air flow now...

What I was thinking is that, since the light's cover is U shaped, if the fans are to blow directly up, under the light, some air would actually flow back down, in which could do cooling in 2 ways, does that even sound possible?


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## PC1 (May 21, 2010)

That would be a tough one. unless the air is at an angle it would essentially be blowing back at itself which would kind of send air in different directions I would think. Then if it did work how warm would the air coming off get from the lights. It would still evaporate and cool but to what degree I couldnt guess. Since it is cool now for at least the next 4-5 months jut focus on cooling the air not the water. See how that works for you. Thats what I would do


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

PC1 said:


> That would be a tough one. unless the air is at an angle it would essentially be blowing back at itself which would kind of send air in different directions I would think. Then if it did work how warm would the air coming off get from the lights. It would still evaporate and cool but to what degree I couldnt guess. Since it is cool now for at least the next 4-5 months jut focus on cooling the air not the water. See how that works for you. Thats what I would do


The weather is pretty chilly right here in San Diego. Currently in my room is reading out 73F, but the temp in my tank is reading 74F. Does that even make sense? Lol. One of them must be off then I would imagine. Huh. Good think I am catching the difference just now. 

In regards to your suggestion, sounds very reasonable! If somehow in 5 months when its warmer and the air blowing in the light is not enough, perhaps my bf could figure out a way to add a 3rd, larger fan blowing down at the water surface :icon_wink


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## PC1 (May 21, 2010)

The tank can be a bit warmer from earlier in the day maybe. It will cool slower than the room temp. Also if you run a canister filter depending on the size of it vs the volume of water you have that could add just a bit as well. 1 degree though and at 74 works for just about any shrimp. Crs will do just fine at 74 yeah 72 would be ideal but still within range for them.


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

Naekuh said:


> below ambient... however i think you'll be lucky if u get more then 1C.
> 
> relatively speaking.. its using the evap of water and themodynamics aka the Bong chiller concept...


Lucky to get 1°C drop using a bong chiller? No no no, my friend. I ruined a perfectly good Asus Rampage II Extreme, and nearly ruined the i7-970 on it, by using a bong chiller to cool my loop. Ambient is 24°C in my room (at least, usually a few C hotter), using a five foot bong, five gallon reservoir, and a Yate Loon D12SL undervolted to ~4v, my last recorded temperature was 12°C before it condensated under the CPU socket and blew it.










Took about two hours of scrubbing with an eraser to get that stuff off, and even then, it was never the same. From then on it took another .1v on the memory controller to get it to run standard DDR3-1333 instead of the DDR3-1600 it was running with stock voltage. And THAT was the end of the bong chiller lol.


Anyway, back on topic, I believe that if a bong-type setup was used, it could definitely drop the temperature more. In fact, I STILL have this damn bong sitting behind my desk, i could actually give this a shot, if anyone really wants me to. I wouldn't be able to do it until possibly next weekend, but I think the results may be interesting!

And if anyone is still unsure of what a bong cooler looks like, here is an example:









And a diagram:









Also, naekuh, I recognized the screen name from a few places around the 'net. roud:


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

PC1 said:


> The tank can be a bit warmer from earlier in the day maybe. It will cool slower than the room temp. Also if you run a canister filter depending on the size of it vs the volume of water you have that could add just a bit as well. 1 degree though and at 74 works for just about any shrimp. Crs will do just fine at 74 yeah 72 would be ideal but still within range for them.


That is good to know. I rather have my room temp. thermometer be off than the one in my tank. The canister filter I am using shouldn't be too bad. Its a Zoomed 501. Rated for 30G tank I believe, so it "should" have good flow and small enough to have it next to the tank


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

jedimasterben said:


> Lucky to get 1°C drop using a bong chiller? No no no, my friend. I ruined a perfectly good Asus Rampage II Extreme, and nearly ruined the i7-970 on it, by using a bong chiller to cool my loop. Ambient is 24°C in my room (at least, usually a few C hotter), using a five foot bong, five gallon reservoir, and a Yate Loon D12SL undervolted to ~4v, my last recorded temperature was 12°C before it condensated under the CPU socket and blew it.
> 
> Took about two hours of scrubbing with an eraser to get that stuff off, and even then, it was never the same. From then on it took another .1v on the memory controller to get it to run standard DDR3-1333 instead of the DDR3-1600 it was running with stock voltage. And THAT was the end of the bong chiller lol.
> 
> ...


Wow! That think looks interesting the the diagram did enlighten me how it actually works internally. PLEASE, you have my vote to do this as a weekend project and let us know how it works! :icon_wink


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## jedimasterben (Aug 21, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> Wow! That think looks interesting the the diagram did enlighten me how it actually works internally. PLEASE, you have my vote to do this as a weekend project and let us know how it works! :icon_wink


Aye aye, cap'n. I don't think it will be a this weekend project, I'm supposed to help my dad expand his dock on Saturday and help my boss move on Sunday, so I'll try and squeeze it in! I'll be starting a new job on Monday, but from then on I'll have a regular schedule for once! Huzzah!

I need to finish cutting the bong in half so I can get it out of the room (I built a room wraparound desk around the thing, so I can't get it out without cutting it lol)








(that's it in the left corner, it's freaking massive)

Then i'll just glue it back together, put the fan back on it, run one of my waterfall pumps to it, and see what happens!

Also, here's the article that the pics are from, it goes into detail how it works and how quickly the temperature drops in comparison to using a copper heatsink to cool water.

http://www.overclockers.com/nuclear-tower-water-cooling/


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

jedimasterben said:


> Lucky to get 1°C drop using a bong chiller?
> 
> Also, naekuh, I recognized the screen name from a few places around the 'net. roud:


no i meant 1C on his tank.. not using a full blown bong chiller.. :biggrin:

you greatly increase the surface area by using a bong, and increase evap. 


And yeah, when it comes to PC's i know what im talking about.
But in this area, i'll admit im a noob.. 


and its fun being a noob again! im allowed to ask dumb questions!


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

The idea for the clip-on PC cooling fan, any comments or suggestions?

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/swap-n-shop/152623-wanted-buy-trade-plastic-clip-ons.html


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> Your Xbox must be broken or you are very rich! Lol. J/k. How big at the xbox fans btw? So I guess you have the fan on 24/7 then? I am curious to know where I can purchase little switches for the fan, you know the tiny ones in RC cars and stuff, the very basic On/Off ones. My bf told me that would be best but we don't have those "toys", don't know where to find one.


I'll try and get a pic but the Xbox fans are basically 2 fans together side by side, that basically look like this










I got a basic on/off switch that I had laying around (any kind would work from electronics stores, etc), I zip tied it to a piece of metal shelving grate that is about 15" wide, so it sits over the tank and won't fall in and it lowers my tank from around 76-78F to 70F. I used an old 12V adapter from something around, and no, not rich, I fix xboxes for a living, so I have probably 50 extra fans around, and thats if I only check 1 box. lol. If it drops below 70, I turn them off for 5-6 hours, it will start to slowly creep up and then I turn them back on. Its pretty steady though for the most part. Bigger tanks have the advantage/disadvantage of taking a while to warm up/cool off because of the size. On my 7gal cube, I only had to use a small CPU fan to keep it in the 70F range and my 5.5gal I had to use an even smaller/older CPU fan. Now though, the 20gal is for crystals with the fans, the cube is being torn down and turned into a planted/fish tank, and the other 2 tanks have neos in them, so I don't care about the temp there, just the crystal tank. The other thing I did with them too was use the same 12V line and wire up some blue led's for moonlight lights too, so use the same power for fans and lighting.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

incase u guys are curious..

u can submerg a standard fan inside water without any ill effects on the fan. Well if the fan has cheap lubricant... u may need to reapply that. 

of course you'll be running current in the water tho. 

But the magnetic housing in a fan doesnt need to be dry, and for kicks and giggles, ive made fans into propellers.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

GeToChKn said:


> I'll try and get a pic but the Xbox fans are basically 2 fans together side by side, that basically look like this
> 
> I got a basic on/off switch that I had laying around (any kind would work from electronics stores, etc), I zip tied it to a piece of metal shelving grate that is about 15" wide, so it sits over the tank and won't fall in and it lowers my tank from around 76-78F to 70F. I used an old 12V adapter from something around, and no, not rich, I fix xboxes for a living, so I have probably 50 extra fans around, and thats if I only check 1 box. lol. If it drops below 70, I turn them off for 5-6 hours, it will start to slowly creep up and then I turn them back on. Its pretty steady though for the most part. Bigger tanks have the advantage/disadvantage of taking a while to warm up/cool off because of the size. On my 7gal cube, I only had to use a small CPU fan to keep it in the 70F range and my 5.5gal I had to use an even smaller/older CPU fan. Now though, the 20gal is for crystals with the fans, the cube is being torn down and turned into a planted/fish tank, and the other 2 tanks have neos in them, so I don't care about the temp there, just the crystal tank. The other thing I did with them too was use the same 12V line and wire up some blue led's for moonlight lights too, so use the same power for fans and lighting.


Don't think I have an extra cell phone charger laying around but I'll check. Worse case is my bf and I run down to a swap meet and buy a bunch to use for our future DIY plans since they are about $1 each.

As for that fan you have right there, it looks like it can really do lots of cooling. What is the dimension on the fan btw, 80mm it looks like? If you could take a picture of how you set that up to stand on your tank that would be excellent.



Naekuh said:


> incase u guys are curious..
> 
> u can submerg a standard fan inside water without any ill effects on the fan. Well if the fan has cheap lubricant... u may need to reapply that.
> 
> ...


I never knew about this. Very good to know, so would the entire fan still work underwater? Huh...then this could perhaps be used instead of power-heads :biggrin: for small tanks


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Naekuh said:


> incase u guys are curious..
> 
> u can submerg a standard fan inside water without any ill effects on the fan. Well if the fan has cheap lubricant... u may need to reapply that.
> 
> ...


I'd be worried about making a shrimp-o-matic. lol.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

GeToChKn said:


> I'd be worried about making a shrimp-o-matic. lol.


Are the fans position to blow into the water surface or up and out in the open air.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

NeoShrimp said:


> I never knew about this. Very good to know, so would the entire fan still work underwater? Huh...then this could perhaps be used instead of power-heads :biggrin: for small tanks


not a lot of people do... they automatically assume.. water = bad on all electronics.. 

This video was done by a friend of mine named Alex:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWHFLbZEewU&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL

It was to debunk the non conductive advertisement feser used by submerging a fan..

My friend alex said... thats BS, a fan will even work in pink lemonade!



NeoShrimp said:


> Are the fans position to blow into the water surface or up and out in the open air.


lol i think this was sarcasm directed at putting the fan inside the tank as a propeller.


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Lol. No sarcasm ment. I just wanted to know where he positioned his fans


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

Hi! Did you get a chance to work on this project yet? : )



jedimasterben said:


> Aye aye, cap'n. I don't think it will be a this weekend project, I'm supposed to help my dad expand his dock on Saturday and help my boss move on Sunday, so I'll try and squeeze it in! I'll be starting a new job on Monday, but from then on I'll have a regular schedule for once! Huzzah!


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