# Fluval 3.0 frustration!



## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi @CaptainCrowe,

In these days of instant gratification one thing planted tanks have taught me is patience. I think a lot of times there is the expectation that this magnificent planted aquarium will occur with little learning or effort (preferably overnight), unfortunately this is not the case. I found the best thing I can do is have a routine with consistent light levels and photoperiod, consistent nutrient levels, and regular water changes. A three week old tank is not even 'settled in' yet, may not have completed its 'nitrogen cycle' and any emersed grown plants are still in transition. Just keep a routine for a couple of months and see what is happening at that point.

My 45 gallon when planted 01/10









My 45 gallon 07/10


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## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

I'm not seeing why your complaint is specifically about the light? Is this a new tank thats only been set up for three weeks now? Or was it an established tank and you've just had this new light for 3 weeks?


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## CaptainCrowe (Mar 26, 2018)

lksdrinker said:


> I'm not seeing why your complaint is specifically about the light? Is this a new tank thats only been set up for three weeks now? Or was it an established tank and you've just had this new light for 3 weeks?


It has had plants in it for about a month and a half, but I have had the light itself for 3 weeks or so. I noticed some cyanobacteria growing on one of my bacopa leaves today, so that combined with my once healthy rotala which are now melting are what has triggered my frustration.


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## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

CaptainCrowe said:


> It has had plants in it for about a month and a half, but I have had the light itself for 3 weeks or so. I noticed some cyanobacteria growing on one of my bacopa leaves today, so that combined with my once healthy rotala which are now melting are what has triggered my frustration.


So its still a relatively new setup. Start making some adjustments as you notice things. If it were me I'd dial back the photo period to something more like 6 or 7 hours instead of the 10 you have now. If you are truly seeing melting then the plants are still adjusting to the current setup and they should bounce back (although I've never seen rotala melt). The holes in the new growth could indicate a deficiency of some sort, or toxicity of another, but I'd just be guessing as to what exactly. Either way I doubt its caused by the new light.


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## CaptainCrowe (Mar 26, 2018)

lksdrinker said:


> So its still a relatively new setup. Start making some adjustments as you notice things. If it were me I'd dial back the photo period to something more like 6 or 7 hours instead of the 10 you have now. If you are truly seeing melting then the plants are still adjusting to the current setup and they should bounce back (although I've never seen rotala melt). The holes in the new growth could indicate a deficiency of some sort, or toxicity of another, but I'd just be guessing as to what exactly. Either way I doubt its caused by the new light.


I decided to make the photo period 7 hours with 5 hours daylight and 1 hour each for sunrise and sunset to see how that goes. I've never heard of rotala really melting either thats why I was fairly concerned. The tank is still going through its nitrogen cycle and I've been doing water changes every other day to keep the fish comfortable due to the nature of fish-in cycling (hence the importance of my plants staying alive). I wonder if this is causing a nutrient imbalance in the tank. I should mention that I have well over 10 root tabs spread throughout the substrate.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

CaptainCrowe said:


> I decided to make the photo period 7 hours with 5 hours daylight and 1 hour each for sunrise and sunset to see how that goes. I've never heard of rotala really melting either thats why I was fairly concerned. The tank is still going through its nitrogen cycle and I've been doing water changes every other day to keep the fish comfortable due to the nature of fish-in cycling (hence the importance of my plants staying alive). I wonder if this is causing a nutrient imbalance in the tank. I should mention that I have well over 10 root tabs spread throughout the substrate.


Hi @CaptainCrowe,

Hopefully those 'root tabs' were not Osmocote; they can put out a lot of ammonia which can really spike the ammonia level and cause melting. Have you checked your ammonia level?


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## CaptainCrowe (Mar 26, 2018)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi @CaptainCrowe,
> 
> Hopefully those 'root tabs' were not Osmocote; they can put out a lot of ammonia which can really spike the ammonia level and cause melting. Have you checked your ammonia level?


Nope not Osmocote! Using Flourish root tabs pushed 3 inches into my substrate. Currently my ammonia is .25 ppm. Every time it reaches the first reading, I have been doing a water change. I am thinking I should buy a gh/kh testing kit as I have no idea what the mineral content of my tap water is.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

CaptainCrowe said:


> Nope not Osmocote! Using Flourish root tabs pushed 3 inches into my substrate. Currently my ammonia is .25 ppm. Every time it reaches the first reading, I have been doing a water change. I am thinking I should buy a gh/kh testing kit as I have no idea what the mineral content of my tap water is.



Hi CaptainCrowe,

Good, Seachem Flourish Tabs should not cause additional issues with ammonia. I use the following tests monthly: pH, KH, GH, and Nitrate. If a suspected issue then Phosphate and iron.


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## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Is there a reason you’re not dosing traces or po4?


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## CaptainCrowe (Mar 26, 2018)

Nlewis said:


> Is there a reason you’re not dosing traces or po4?


To be quite honest, my LFS just didn't have them in stock. I did however just place an order for Thrive to see if it makes any difference. I like the all-around formula.


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