# My Corys are dying!!! I can't stop it. To all the experts, help me!!



## SmoothSailor

http://www1.snapfish.com/snapfish/s...otsc=SHR/otsi=SPIClink/COBRAND_NAME=snapfish/


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## stauchistory

How often do you feed your fish, and how much are you feeding them. With my saltwater tank, I feed them 2x per week only. I'd like to hear from the experts on how often to feed FW fish.


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## wkndracer

As long as the temp/parameters are the same clean water never hurts fish. NO3 at 40ppm short term should not be the cause either but may indicate another issue. Any unaccounted for fish? Does the tank smell?
Looking closely at the fish do you see any signs of fungus? Anything?

Most people myself included shy away from adding salt to a planted tank but 1tbs per 5 gallons (completely disolved in another container) and slowly added so it's well mixed going in is a general tonic and may help your fish without hurting your system. Water changes over time will remove it.

Quickly rising nitrate levels can be caused by a dead fish lost in the tank or over feeding.

Not an expert but HTH


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## SmoothSailor

No signs of illness whatsoever. I have read that salt is not liked by corys. The API master test kits states that 0 to 40 ppm of Nitrate is tolerated by fish. I feed my fish about 2 to 3 times daily, not more than they can eat in 3 minutes. I have done this for a while, now all of a sudden these deaths are occuring. My nitrate levels have never been this high. That is why I am thinking it's the nitrate level. How much water change would you recommend??


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## fresh.salty

IMO a slow death without visible cause might be a sign of starvation. I have at least 25 cories in my 90g and it takes a lot of food and effort to be sure they get enough to eat to stay healthy. I know I couldn't keep them alive without targeting them with sinking food at feeding time. I don't expect them to live off a stray piece of flake that makes it to the bottom. Some call them part of the clean-up clew but that doesn't mean they live off fish poop. :wink:

Mine get pellets every night when I feed flake and in the morning before the lights come on no flake but they get a few pellets. They've been spawning the last three months so either they're happy or they're afraid the end is near and feel the urge to reproduce before it's too late. lol

On your water change schedule... I don't think 15-20% water changes will do much one way or the other. 15% dilution isn't much. I change 60g every two weeks in my 90. I'd guess actual volume in the tank is more like 80g at most. The worst thing that happens is a few days after a water change something in the tank spawns again. lol

Edit... But just because I replied doesn't mean I'm an expert.


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## james0816

Are you using a dechlor product like Prime?

Have you tested water from tap?

Are you running any carbon in the filters?


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## wkndracer

I'm using RO water because I don't like what’s in my well water straight out of the ground. If your source water is good 50-60% of tank volume is what I would change every two weeks if not weekly (I did weekly 50% when dosing EI) the least amount I bother to change is 25%. Changing 25% my tested levels hardly change at all. Because I've chosen to use 100% RO I test more than most folks care to bother with. TDS in ppm, GH, KH, NO3, PO4, Ca, Mg (based on the math GH/Ca)

Cory's will not be hurt by the dose of salt I recommended I know that because I've done it more than once dealing with infected fish. 

If without changing or adding anything, doing anything differently tested parameters change you need to look around in there real well, something is decaying (dead) in that tank and bacteria in overdrive are creating the increased nitrates you’re seeing. (imo) 

What Fresh.Salty posted warrants strong consideration also. Mine get algae pellets every night after the lights go out and a few algae disks in the morning along with fresh veggies every other day. 5 LFABN, 3 clowns, 5 cory's. The guy's on the bottom get their own stuff over and above what's fed above. Again though the elevated NO3 is there for a reason.
Changing up to 80% of the tanks water volume (with good source water) the biggest problem is matching the temp. Discus keepers and breeders change on average 50% daily I've read when they're pushing the fish to breed. 

Again,, I know what I know because of what I've got in my tanks I've had no formal training :icon_cool


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## SmoothSailor

I thought about starvation, but I feed them at least once daily with shrimp pellets and algae wafers. Usually I feed them twice a day. I bought 30 young corys offline about 1.5 months ago. They are starting to reach their full size. I bought 8 sterbai corys on 9/16. I can count at least 5 remaining. So I have approx, 32 corys. Remember some died and I can't count all my corys with absolute certainty. I rotate my feeding schedule. Two algae wafers one day, then 6 shrimp pellets the next. I make sure everyone gets to eat. I have noticed my water is a bit more cloudly than normal. So I must have a bacteria bloom going on too.
I do have carbon, infact I changed all my carbon yesterday. I use Stress coat to dechlorinate my water. I use Excel along with my ferts for my plants.

I have crappy water. I am scared to do a 50% water change. I live in Palmyra, VA and the water sucks. By the way....my last water and sewer bill was $166.66 I am not even joking. Next month is going to be another bad water bill with all the water changes I am doing on my tank.

I just looked around in the tank and I don't see anything dead. Corys are swimming around. What I don't get is....why just the corys?? Nothing else has died. I have neons, which have always been hard for me to keep, and they are alive. The mollys are doing well. 

Once again, I am ready to do something drastic here to save my fish. 
Tonight I plan on doing the 50% water change, dose some salt, check for dead stuff. I don't have the money to buy a RO filter, but if this keeps on going.....I'm buying one.

Thanks everyone for the help. Keep the ideas flowing. Save my corys.


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## james0816

I know all about the crappy water. I'm not all that far from you but on well water. This drought has really messed up the water quality in the well. Hopefully all this rain from Nichole will help get things back on track.


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## Baadboy11

What kind of substrate do you have? Are their barbels worn down? This can happen with a sharp substrate which can cause infections. Personal experience speaking here:icon_cry:


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## SmoothSailor

I have flourite for substrate. Barbells are all long. Corys look healthy, act healthy. But they continue to die.


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## fresh.salty

Not sure what pellets you're feeding but it might not be enough. Looking down from the top of the tank they should look "full". Females of course should have a fuller body but none should look thin. I know most of the cories I've bought at the LFS were close to being starved just by looking at them.

With the fish load and food input you might need to adjust your fert schedule.


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## SmoothSailor

I just found another catfish dead. I don't think this is starvation. I really feel I overfeed my fish if anything. Could a bacteria cause this? What are corys sensitive to??


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## wkndracer

*!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Bingo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!*



SmoothSailor said:


> I bought 30 young corys offline about 1.5 months ago. They are starting to reach their full size. *I bought 8 sterbai corys on 9/16.* *I can count at least 5 remaining.* So I have approx, 32 corys. Remember some died and I can't count all my corys with absolute certainty.
> Thanks everyone for the help. Keep the ideas flowing. Save my corys.


This is what I would call *"changing or adding anything"*

Your gonna hate this post. QUARANTINE!!!!

Gram negative bacteria in 14 panda cory's and I have the last two in a 10g quantine tank that won't start they're 30 day clock until the last Maracyn II dose today. This started 8/19/10. From the first death to the last treatment I won't count any time and start the clock all over again. I can link you to a post by a breeder in Colorado that was wiped out by a 'healthy fish' that sat in a holding tank for 3 weeks prior to being placed in his fish room. I read a treament post by Charles Harrison, Ph.D. where he reports outbreak NINE MONTHS after purchase. 
http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleArticle.pdf

You might not want to read either of these strings.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fish/117216-how-long-new-fish-holding-tank.html#post1167072

The cory's I lost for the most part showed no outward signs of being in trouble. This weekend I'm gonna gather my information and post a QT string if I get the time because most folks just don't know. The treatment that cured mine based on what I tried and had onhand was salt and Maracyn 2.

HTH and good luck.


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## Geminiluna

Are you injecting CO2, and if so, is the CO2 level getting too high over night? Run an air-stone over night perhaps? I know cory cats are able to breathe from the surface, but if they're stressed from anything and already weakened, you might consider CO2 levels. Just a thought...


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## Aquamom

Since your water quality is so awful, and you've indicated you do use a dechlorinator, perhaps you should consider using bottled or distilled water. I know this could get very expensive, but the improved water quality might be worth it. I would suggest mixing in some distilled bottled water with the existing water so as not to completely shock the fish. They do need some trace elements, although these can be added.

Since your water is a bit cloudy, there may indeed be a bacterial problem. I don't know what the term RO filter means, but when I was keeping FW tropical fish back in the 1980s, I had a diatom filter that I occasionally used to supplement the actions of my undergravel filter/aeration system. When my water got cloudy, the diatom filter cleared it up nicely. I don't know if an RO filter is the same thing -- have never seen that term used before.

When I kept my tropicals, I always used a dechlorinator called Novaqua. Not even sure if they make that, anymore.

But then, I've only started anew keeping fish as of this year. And now I only keep FW coldwater fish.

Another thing to consider -- is the temperature in your tank compatible with corydoras? It seems to be within the proper range for tropicals, as you've indicated it, but maybe corys require warmer or slightly cooler?

I would see if your fish store or pet shop has a good book on keeping bottomfeeders, and particularly on keeping and caring for corys. You might get some good information from there. Also, online, by googling.

Hope this helps. I'm no expert, but am relaying what I used to know from my previous fish-keeping experiences.

Hope this helps.

Aquamom


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## lauraleellbp

Water quality is always first and foremost to keeping fish healthy. If you have concerns about your source water then I'd either be buying bottled water or invest in an RO unit if you're serious about wanting to keep fish.

Stop feeding your fish for a week and see if the deaths stop and if your water parameters improve- that's a good way to rule out the possibility of overfeeding. The fish will be fine with a week-long fast.

I suspect your high nitrate and phosphate readings are also related to your fert dosing, however. If you aren't doing weekly 50% water changes then you need to dose much, much less to avoid nutrient buildups. I doubt that's the problem with your fish, though.

All of the above possibilities need to be ruled out- but my own gut feeling is that your new Cories brought in something contagious, and I agree with wkndracer that next time you've got to use a quarantine tank when you obtain any new fish.


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## SmoothSailor

*Omg*

But I don't see anything wrong with the corys..... And I purchased the sterbai coys on 9/16 and the deaths started on 9/28. That is a 12 days time lapse. Wouldn't I have seen the deaths early on??




wkndracer said:


> This is what I would call *"changing or adding anything"*
> 
> Your gonna hate this post. QUARANTINE!!!!
> 
> Gram negative bacteria in 14 panda cory's and I have the last two in a 10g quantine tank that won't start they're 30 day clock until the last Maracyn II dose today. This started 8/19/10. From the first death to the last treatment I won't count any time and start the clock all over again. I can link you to a post by a breeder in Colorado that was wiped out by a 'healthy fish' that sat in a holding tank for 3 weeks prior to being placed in his fish room. I read a treament post by Charles Harrison, Ph.D. where he reports outbreak NINE MONTHS after purchase.
> http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleArticle.pdf
> 
> You might not want to read either of these strings.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fish/117216-how-long-new-fish-holding-tank.html#post1167072
> 
> The cory's I lost for the most part showed no outward signs of being in trouble. This weekend I'm gonna gather my information and post a QT string if I get the time because most folks just don't know. The treatment that cured mine based on what I tried and had onhand was salt and Maracyn 2.
> 
> HTH and good luck.


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## SmoothSailor

*CO2 injection decreased.*

I thought about the CO2, but I have not touched my CO2 injection for almost 3 months. However, I did decrease my injection to be safe. I have a drop checker in the tank and it always remain in the safe range. 




Geminiluna said:


> Are you injecting CO2, and if so, is the CO2 level getting too high over night? Run an air-stone over night perhaps? I know cory cats are able to breathe from the surface, but if they're stressed from anything and already weakened, you might consider CO2 levels. Just a thought...


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## SmoothSailor

*RO or reverse osmosis*

RO is the abbreviation for reverse osmosis filter. My husband installed a small scale on in our home for drinking water. After running the tap water through this filter I found the nitrate levels to be 5ppm. I took a few gallons of this and put it in the tank. I also did a 50% water change. Purchasing water really isn't in my budget. Our water bill runs $160 already. I can't spend more for water. Good thought though. Thank you for you reply.



Aquamom said:


> Since your water quality is so awful, and you've indicated you do use a dechlorinator, perhaps you should consider using bottled or distilled water. I know this could get very expensive, but the improved water quality might be worth it. I would suggest mixing in some distilled bottled water with the existing water so as not to completely shock the fish. They do need some trace elements, although these can be added.
> 
> Since your water is a bit cloudy, there may indeed be a bacterial problem. I don't know what the term RO filter means, but when I was keeping FW tropical fish back in the 1980s, I had a diatom filter that I occasionally used to supplement the actions of my undergravel filter/aeration system. When my water got cloudy, the diatom filter cleared it up nicely. I don't know if an RO filter is the same thing -- have never seen that term used before.
> 
> When I kept my tropicals, I always used a dechlorinator called Novaqua. Not even sure if they make that, anymore.
> 
> But then, I've only started anew keeping fish as of this year. And now I only keep FW coldwater fish.
> 
> Another thing to consider -- is the temperature in your tank compatible with corydoras? It seems to be within the proper range for tropicals, as you've indicated it, but maybe corys require warmer or slightly cooler?
> 
> I would see if your fish store or pet shop has a good book on keeping bottomfeeders, and particularly on keeping and caring for corys. You might get some good information from there. Also, online, by googling.
> 
> Hope this helps. I'm no expert, but am relaying what I used to know from my previous fish-keeping experiences.
> 
> Hope this helps.
> 
> Aquamom


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## SmoothSailor

I did a 50% water change tonight at 5pm. Nitrate levels before the water change were 40 and after the water change were about 30ppm. I found my tap water already has higher than anticipated nitrates, 10ppm. I put some RO water into the tank to decrease the nitrate levels. One possible problem is a bacteria issue from some new fish I introduced on 9/16. I haven't had much luck with fish and medication so I pray it's not that. I did add some salt to the tank along with the water change. No one has died since 5pm. Everyone looks fine. They are eating and seem happy. I pray tomorrow brings no more death to my fish family.


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## SmoothSailor

*No smell*

I just wanted to add I do not smell anything. I did a close check to see if there was anything dead in the tank......nothing.




wkndracer said:


> As long as the temp/parameters are the same clean water never hurts fish. NO3 at 40ppm short term should not be the cause either but may indicate another issue. Any unaccounted for fish? Does the tank smell?
> Looking closely at the fish do you see any signs of fungus? Anything?
> 
> Most people myself included shy away from adding salt to a planted tank but 1tbs per 5 gallons (completely disolved in another container) and slowly added so it's well mixed going in is a general tonic and may help your fish without hurting your system. Water changes over time will remove it.
> 
> Quickly rising nitrate levels can be caused by a dead fish lost in the tank or over feeding.
> 
> Not an expert but HTH


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## SmoothSailor

*Read the articles you*

wkndracer,
Thank you for the article and links. It is very possible this is going on. What medication would you recommend me dosing?? They talk about Flagyl in the article, but you mentioned you used Maracyn II. Next, why am I only seeing this in the corys?? Wouldn't my molly and tetras be affected?? If more deaths occur, I'm going to set up a hospital tank tomorrow and will obtain the medication. I watch hourly for more deaths. I can't stand this. I am so upset. And all of my sterbai corys are fine!!! Go figure.







wkndracer said:


> This is what I would call *"changing or adding anything"*
> 
> Your gonna hate this post. QUARANTINE!!!!
> 
> Gram negative bacteria in 14 panda cory's and I have the last two in a 10g quantine tank that won't start they're 30 day clock until the last Maracyn II dose today. This started 8/19/10. From the first death to the last treatment I won't count any time and start the clock all over again. I can link you to a post by a breeder in Colorado that was wiped out by a 'healthy fish' that sat in a holding tank for 3 weeks prior to being placed in his fish room. I read a treament post by Charles Harrison, Ph.D. where he reports outbreak NINE MONTHS after purchase.
> http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/FlubendazoleArticle.pdf
> 
> You might not want to read either of these strings.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fish/117216-how-long-new-fish-holding-tank.html#post1167072
> 
> The cory's I lost for the most part showed no outward signs of being in trouble. This weekend I'm gonna gather my information and post a QT string if I get the time because most folks just don't know. The treatment that cured mine based on what I tried and had onhand was salt and Maracyn 2.
> 
> HTH and good luck.


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## lauraleellbp

Fish can sometimes be "carriers" - exposed and hosting some sort of disease or pathogen that they are or have developed an immunity to, but other fish without those immunities can be wiped out (think about how Europeans brought smallpox over to the New World and wiped out Native Americans...)

What they might be carrying is total guesswork in the absence of a lab/microscope analysis, but treatment an antibiotic is probably your best bet given how fast the fish are going down. If you keep losing fish and it hasn't already run its course, that is.

If your RO unit is still leaving behind that much nitrates, personally I'd invest in a better RO unit because I'd want one for drinking water. 10ppm nitrates in my drinking water would worry me about what else may be getting past. Also, most RO filter membranes need to be replaced at least once a year, and if your water quality is that bad they may need to be replaced every 6 months or maybe even more often than that! So that's another possibility if your filter elements haven't been changed in a while. 

I'd set up a catchment for the "waste water" that comes off the RO and use that water for houseplants, yard watering, etc so you aren't wasting anything.


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## bsmith

Two things I can think of. One, flourish excel. If you put too much in it can kill fish very quickly. I dont know if coreys are more susceptible to being hurt by it but who knows. Just something to think about. 

And the bacterial bloom. Bacterial blooms usually happen when there is ammonia present. If you have green water then there was deff an ammonia spike. OR it could have been from the ammonia released from the dead cats.


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## wkndracer

_*IF*_ what you have occurring/causing your fish loss is parasitic in nature. 

I REALLY wish I could say 'X and Y' will fix your problem but if I did it would be at best a guess or at worst a lie. As I posted prior what ever came into my quarantine with the new fish was gram negative bacteria (imo) because what stopped the losses was salt and Maracyn2. Honestly (no point posting without it), without indication I treated blindly after the second or third fish died. 
1st used was Aqua-mycin (250mg/10g Erythromycin) 
It treats a broad range of gram positive stuff and some gram negative (wide range). 
Along with it I used HP (3% Hydrogen Peroxide) and Maroxy in baths trying to externally treat.
I also tried Jungle parasite tabs (48hrs x2 recommended treatments). 
All these treatments were no help and the whole time I was losing fish. 
(That's the problem with not being able to identify whats wrong.)
9/24/10 I drained the tank 70-80% again (leaving just enough water for the fish to stay wet) cleaned the HOB (flushed the debris out only) then treated with 4tbs salt and started Maracyn 2 treatments. The second day (9/25) I lost the last fish. The treatment cycle is now completed and today I'll transfer the remaining 2 Panda Cory's (all that survived) into a 10g quarantine tank so I can break down, clean and start the 20gL (20 gallon long) all over again. 

The fish purchase was made on 8/19 and they were placed in a cycled 20gL planted quarantine tank. I tried various treatments from 8/19 through 9/24 without success losing most of the fish.
9/24 I changed treatments and guessed correctly treating with 4tbs salt and started Maracyn 2 dosing. Purchased 8/19 and treated until 9/30 that's 42 days with these fish still not in my display tank. If they show no further problems I'll home them in a tank around Halloween which will end up being 72 day's after I bought them. 2 remaining out of 14 is still way better than my whole tank group getting what ever it was.

The biggest difference between your situation and mine was I did not expose all my display tanks because I isolated the new fish. I contained the problem. Treatments are also cheaper with a smaller tank. Also need to mention by doing that I don't have worry about what else might be causing it while I'm already guessing how to deal with it because it's all in dealing with 'the new stuff' rather then maybe my tanks making the new fish sick as another possible cause. 

Quarantine for 30-45 days and don't impulse add to an existing tank. If its just one tank or a new one just starting out, maybe just cheap fish (stuff you don't mind losing) roll it all together and go for it. Once established though additions must be viewed as suspect or this type heartbreak will sooner or later occur. 

I had one other thought in reading the information you've provided (you did mention it) and lauraleellbp commented on it with regards to dosing. You have a huge bio-load and that said NO3, PO4 dosing is probably covered by your fish and feedings.

I am REALLY sorry I can't help with a better answer.


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## LS6 Tommy

Nitrates themselves aren't necessarily "poisonous", but they indicate heavy organic waste buildup, like in an overstocked, overfed tank. If your tap water starts out @ 10 ppm Nitrates & goes up to 40 ppm with no increase in Ammonia or Nitrites you've got a pretty well cycled tank, but IMO the fast increase in Nitrates indicates heavy organic buildup. Might want to gravel vac more thoroughly. 

Tommy


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## SmoothSailor

Yesterday I experienced no deaths. This morning, when I got up at 4:30am, I had another death. I have not checked my nitrates today. I have to work til 7pm, so I will check again tonight. I will do another water change and hopefully bring the nitrates down further. I looked more closely at my notes and saw that my nitrates have never been this high before. They usually were within the 10ppm range. I will eliminate this possible death factor. Regretfully, I think you are all correct. My new sterbai corys were infected. I am going to begin with a salt and maracyn II dosing in a hospital tank. I will try to set that up tonight or tomorrow. Catching these fish is going to be EXTREMELY difficult. I have a well planted tank and they are fast. I'll do what I can. Is there any other medication that I should dose with the salt and maracyn II?? Remember, I see no outward signs of illness. They eat, they swim fast, they are normal in all ways. They just keep dropping like flies. So sad. :-(


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## SmoothSailor

*Cleaning tank.*

Tommy,
Good point. I have a sand and flourite substrate. I don't clean the substrate like I should. I will clean it better tonight when I get home from work. I'll try to do a 50% water change. Others seem to feel that I have infected my fish from my new sterbai cory purchase. I think they may be correct. I will prepare a hospital tank soon.




LS6 Tommy said:


> Nitrates themselves aren't necessarily "poisonous", but they indicate heavy organic waste buildup, like in an overstocked, overfed tank. If your tap water starts out @ 10 ppm Nitrates & goes up to 40 ppm with no increase in Ammonia or Nitrites you've got a pretty well cycled tank, but IMO the fast increase in Nitrates indicates heavy organic buildup. Might want to gravel vac more thoroughly.
> 
> Tommy


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## SmoothSailor

*Analysis*

Would it be possible to dissect one of my dead fish and see what is causing this problem?? Would I have to look in the intestines?? 

I'm going to try salt and maracyn II first. Luckily only my white and green corys are dying. (Sad, but at least it's not ALL my fish) 
I will leave the sterbai corys, since they seem to be doing well. I have not seen any of these dead. 
I am working the next 5 days, ugh. I will clean the tank again tonight, really well. Trying to get the nitrates down.
Then if there are more deaths.....The hospital tank will be established tomorrow. 

Thanks for the help.

Cary




wkndracer said:


> _*IF*_ what you have occurring/causing your fish loss is parasitic in nature.
> 
> I REALLY wish I could say 'X and Y' will fix your problem but if I did it would be at best a guess or at worst a lie. As I posted prior what ever came into my quarantine with the new fish was gram negative bacteria (imo) because what stopped the losses was salt and Maracyn2. Honestly (no point posting without it), without indication I treated blindly after the second or third fish died.
> 1st used was Aqua-mycin (250mg/10g Erythromycin)
> It treats a broad range of gram positive stuff and some gram negative (wide range).
> Along with it I used HP (3% Hydrogen Peroxide) and Maroxy in baths trying to externally treat.
> I also tried Jungle parasite tabs (48hrs x2 recommended treatments).
> All these treatments were no help and the whole time I was losing fish.
> (That's the problem with not being able to identify whats wrong.)
> 9/24/10 I drained the tank 70-80% again (leaving just enough water for the fish to stay wet) cleaned the HOB (flushed the debris out only) then treated with 4tbs salt and started Maracyn 2 treatments. The second day (9/25) I lost the last fish. The treatment cycle is now completed and today I'll transfer the remaining 2 Panda Cory's (all that survived) into a 10g quarantine tank so I can break down, clean and start the 20gL (20 gallon long) all over again.
> 
> The fish purchase was made on 8/19 and they were placed in a cycled 20gL planted quarantine tank. I tried various treatments from 8/19 through 9/24 without success losing most of the fish.
> 9/24 I changed treatments and guessed correctly treating with 4tbs salt and started Maracyn 2 dosing. Purchased 8/19 and treated until 9/30 that's 42 days with these fish still not in my display tank. If they show no further problems I'll home them in a tank around Halloween which will end up being 72 day's after I bought them. 2 remaining out of 14 is still way better than my whole tank group getting what ever it was.
> 
> The biggest difference between your situation and mine was I did not expose all my display tanks because I isolated the new fish. I contained the problem. Treatments are also cheaper with a smaller tank. Also need to mention by doing that I don't have worry about what else might be causing it while I'm already guessing how to deal with it because it's all in dealing with 'the new stuff' rather then maybe my tanks making the new fish sick as another possible cause.
> 
> Quarantine for 30-45 days and don't impulse add to an existing tank. If its just one tank or a new one just starting out, maybe just cheap fish (stuff you don't mind losing) roll it all together and go for it. Once established though additions must be viewed as suspect or this type heartbreak will sooner or later occur.
> 
> I had one other thought in reading the information you've provided (you did mention it) and lauraleellbp commented on it with regards to dosing. You have a huge bio-load and that said NO3, PO4 dosing is probably covered by your fish and feedings.
> 
> I am REALLY sorry I can't help with a better answer.


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## wkndracer

I have never examined or dissected a fish. 

Reading I believe you'd require a good microscope and some idea of what you looking for other than maybe movement on the specimen slide. Even if unlucky enough to actually see a little critter move in the gut sample how to know what the bug is I have no idea.
Worm type affliction maybe you could see,,, stomach, digestive track damage, damaged gills (flukes). If they're infected with worms the damage or the worm itself you might see. (IDK) 
None of the fish you've mentioned having in this string are highly sensitive to salts. I would salt the main tank at this point as some bugs do not do well in the presence of salt and it's proven to help stressed fish. Aquarium salt is cheap and at 1tbs/5g won't hurt any but the most delicate of plants. (I don't have any it bothers)

A one-time addition of salt (1 level teaspoon un-iodized salt per 10 gal) will take care of low nitrite levels on a newly set tank allowing the cycle to continue but making the NO2 non toxic to the fish. (Don't confuse this paragraph with my recommendation of 1tbs/5g). To make sure salt gets quickly disbursed in the tank water, I would dissolve the salt in some water and then add the resulting salt solution to the tank pouring it in so it mixes well. 

If you did indeed bring in a bug it's already in your main tank. Treating in a hospital tank now may save an individual but once it's placed back in the main tank it's exposed again unless problem has been corrected/eliminated.

Again I'm so sorry your dealing with this. I know how frustrating it can be. It's a lesson in tank keeping I re-learn every so many years when I let my guard down and introduce something new in a rush. Maybe after the weakest fish have expired the rest will fight it off (IDK Ugh).

HTH


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## SmoothSailor

*Medication*

Where can I obtain Flubendazole?? I saw that Dr. Harrison used this medication to treat his fish. Will this hurt any of my fish that aren't infected with the Hexamita??



wkndracer said:


> I have never examined or dissected a fish.
> 
> Reading I believe you'd require a good microscope and some idea of what you looking for other than maybe movement on the specimen slide. Even if unlucky enough to actually see a little critter move in the gut sample how to know what the bug is I have no idea.
> Worm type affliction maybe you could see,,, stomach, digestive track damage, damaged gills (flukes). If they're infected with worms the damage or the worm itself you might see. (IDK)
> None of the fish you've mentioned having in this string are highly sensitive to salts. I would salt the main tank at this point as some bugs do not do well in the presence of salt and it's proven to help stressed fish. Aquarium salt is cheap and at 1tbs/5g won't hurt any but the most delicate of plants. (I don't have any it bothers)
> 
> A one-time addition of salt (1 level teaspoon un-iodized salt per 10 gal) will take care of low nitrite levels on a newly set tank allowing the cycle to continue but making the NO2 non toxic to the fish. (Don't confuse this paragraph with my recommendation of 1tbs/5g). To make sure salt gets quickly disbursed in the tank water, I would dissolve the salt in some water and then add the resulting salt solution to the tank pouring it in so it mixes well.
> 
> If you did indeed bring in a bug it's already in your main tank. Treating in a hospital tank now may save an individual but once it's placed back in the main tank it's exposed again unless problem has been corrected/eliminated.
> 
> Again I'm so sorry your dealing with this. I know how frustrating it can be. It's a lesson in tank keeping I re-learn every so many years when I let my guard down and introduce something new in a rush. Maybe after the weakest fish have expired the rest will fight it off (IDK Ugh).
> 
> HTH


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## wkndracer

It does not mix well at all and will kill snails FYI

The best way to get the fluebendazole to mix is to get a glass container, fill it with water and bring to a near boil in the microwave or on the stove (do not use plastic, do not boil the med). Then add the correct amount of fluebendazole for the treatment you are doing. Mix well, let sit a few minutes mix well again and allow it to cool. Then broadcast this into the tank water.

It does not dissolve well but this helps a lot to prevent clumps from being eaten by hungry (stupid) fish causing over medication and death from a toxic dose.This is a serious med.

The only place it's available in the U.S. I'm aware of is Dr. Harrison's website http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/


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## SmoothSailor

*Medicine*

I just spoke with my husband and he said yet another fish died. Everyone has been a cory, either albino or green. I sent an email to Dr. Harrison, but he hasn't responded yet. I hope he gets my message soon. Very soon I won't have anymore corys. :-(

Thanks for all your help. 


Cary



wkndracer said:


> It does not mix well at all and will kill snails FYI
> 
> The best way to get the fluebendazole to mix is to get a glass container, fill it with water and bring to a near boil in the microwave or on the stove (do not use plastic, do not boil the med). Then add the correct amount of fluebendazole for the treatment you are doing. Mix well, let sit a few minutes mix well again and allow it to cool. Then broadcast this into the tank water.
> 
> It does not dissolve well but this helps a lot to prevent clumps from being eaten by hungry (stupid) fish causing over medication and death from a toxic dose.This is a serious med.
> 
> The only place it's available in the U.S. I'm aware of is Dr. Harrison's website http://www.inkmkr.com/Fish/


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## SmoothSailor

10/4/2010
I called Dr. Harrison yesterday. He said without analysis of the fish poop and really looking at my corys he couldn't say for certain if Flubenazole would help the fish. He said that after hearing the description of my situation, he feels it's a water quality issue. After sharing with him that I only do a 15-20% water change every 1.5-2 weeks, he feels its dirty water. He recommended I do an agressive 50-60% water change. Which I did last night. Yesterday was my worst loss in fish to date. I lost a total of 4 corys during the day and 1 more after my water change. The death toll was 5 for the day and 10 total. That is 10 that I could count and find. I did not see any dead corys at 4:30am this morning. Very soon this will be all over. I am down to my last few corys. I have experienced such great dissappointment and sadness. I will not do saltwater anytime soon. My corys were "cheap" but priceless to me. I really enjoyed them, and they were dear to my heart. I could not imagine having expensive salt water fish and experiencing this. Dr. Harrison feels that my high bioload and low number of water changes probably brought along a spike in my nitrate levels. He stated those fish water kits we have are unreliable. My levels are probably higher than I think. If I follow the trends of the water color, my nitrate levels are decreasing. I went from 40ppm to 10ppm. My tap water is 10ppm nitrates. So I'm going to use my husband's small crappy Reverse Osmosis filter to bring the levels down further. Like I stated before, one fish died after the water change. I have not see anymore dead.


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## SmoothSailor

I also want to add, I have been putting salts in the water. And Dr. Harrison suggested I stabilize my water more. I could use crushed oyster shells, limestone, or coral to bring more calcium into the water and stabilize the alkalinity.


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## roadmaster

SmoothSailor said:


> I need everyone's help to solve this problem. My corys just started dying off. Since 9/28 I have awaken to find 1 or 2 of my corys dead. They look perfectly normal. No one is sick, nothing to indicate they are going to die. They just die over the night. Here is the background information.
> Tank information:
> 65 gal planted FW, Marineland canister filter, Marineland Wet/dry filter
> I have neon tetras, corys( albino, green, sterbai), guppies, platys, balloon mollys, beta, butterfly pleco
> Maintanence info:
> 9/19-15% water change, dose my ferts (KNO3 2gm, KH2PO4 0.3gm, K2SO4=7gm, CSM+B= 0.4gm)
> 9/21- 20% water change. No deaths, everyone is fine
> 9/28 - FIRST DEATH!! 20% water change, dose ferts (KNO3 1gm, KH2PO4 0.3gm, K2SO4=7gm, CSM+B= 0.4gm)
> 9/29 -SECOND DEATH
> 9/30-THIRD DEATH, Levels checked....results as follows
> ph 6.8, Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate 40!!!!!!!, Phoshate 2.1 !!!!
> On 9/30 I did a 15% water change, spent $17 and battled bad traffic in town to get API nitrozorb, Nitrosorb inline at 8pm on 9/30
> 10/1 TODAY- 2 Catfish dead!!!!! (My favorite catfish died overnight.) Levels checked at 9am
> ph about 6.7, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 40!!!!, phosphate 2!!! Temp is 79.5
> 
> Please someone help me. Should I do a 50% water change?? Won't this shock the fish more??? How long til I see results from the Nitrosorb?? I have a smaller tank with angelfish. Should I move my corys over there until these levels are within a safe range??
> 
> I have a highly populated tank and I like to feed my fish. Do you think these nitrate levels are high because I overfeed?? :icon_redf
> 
> I will check this throughout the day. I will do whatever is necessary to safe my fish.


 
Might consider reducing KNO3 dosing if source water also contains elevated nitrate levels.
With fish foods and KH2PO4 ,not sure K2SO4 is needed. Would seem to be a lot of phosphates for rather small weekly water changes.This alone however would not in my view explain why only cory's were/are affected but may be contributing factor.
Assuming CO2 is off at night, I might run airstone or small sponge filter at night. Hope some of this helps.


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## SmoothSailor

*I stopped the Ferts*

I actually stopped dosing all ferts since this started. I am only doing Excel. The CO2 is off at night and an air stone is always on. 
I'm not sure I'll ever be 100% sure what happened here. I can say though that I did everything possible to stop the deaths. If my major water changes stop the dying....then I will be inclined to say poor water quality. Of course, the poor quality may have made them all sick and weak and they will die no matter what I do. I managed to catch one of my corys and put him in my angelfish tank. I'll see what happens to him. The rest I could not catch. Yesterday I did the 60% water change. I'll change it agan in 3 days. Maybe I'll escape with a couple corys. I can only pray.
:icon_cry:



roadmaster said:


> Might consider reducing KNO3 dosing if source water also contains elevated nitrate levels.
> With fish foods and KH2PO4 ,not sure K2SO4 is needed. Would seem to be a lot of phosphates for rather small weekly water changes.This alone however would not in my view explain why only cory's were/are affected but may be contributing factor.
> Assuming CO2 is off at night, I might run airstone or small sponge filter at night. Hope some of this helps.


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## RipariumGuy

Have you thought of adding some Purigen to your filter?


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## SmoothSailor

*what is purigen??*

What is Purigen? Where do I get this?



JakeJ said:


> Have you thought of adding some Purigen to your filter?


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## lauraleellbp

Purigen is a chemical filter media similar to carbon except it's easy to regenerate and re-use. I usually get mine from www.bigalsonline.com.

You shouldn't use it while medicating a tank, but it might help with your water quality issues otherwise.

In your shoes I'd start using RO water and reconstituting it with something like Seachem's Equilibrium rather than using your tap water at all.


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## SmoothSailor

*Game almost over*

Another death tonight. Look how perfect he is. THe only thing I see is his eyes. Actually I think it was a girl,....so her eyes are different. She had a big pupil and then a ring of white. The eyes of my other corys looked different. I'm grasping at straws. I'm losing this battle fast. Even if was an internal parasite, I'm almost out of corys. It's too late. The fact that I have to work 5 12.5 hour days in a row is not helping things. Failure is humbling


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## fresh.salty

The lower bulge doesn't look good but then we're looking at a dead fish so who knows.


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## roadmaster

SmoothSailor said:


> I actually stopped dosing all ferts since this started. I am only doing Excel. The CO2 is off at night and an air stone is always on.
> I'm not sure I'll ever be 100% sure what happened here. I can say though that I did everything possible to stop the deaths. If my major water changes stop the dying....then I will be inclined to say poor water quality. Of course, the poor quality may have made them all sick and weak and they will die no matter what I do. I managed to catch one of my corys and put him in my angelfish tank. I'll see what happens to him. The rest I could not catch. Yesterday I did the 60% water change. I'll change it agan in 3 days. Maybe I'll escape with a couple corys. I can only pray.
> :icon_cry:


 
EXCEL +CO2 injection? I am so sorry you ar losing cory's they are, and have been a longtime favorite of mine as well.
I believe there is strong possibility that bacterial pathogen was introduced and this,combined with what appears to be excessive dosing of ferts/ salts with perhaps not large enough water changes each week to prevent build up, may be weakening already sick fish.(purely speculation)
I might consider running low tech style planted aquarium after the problem has been sorted out. (hopefully soon)
With the fish load you have,and waste created,, + fish foods along with plant mass,,, there may be no need as mentioned to dose fertz or CO2 for that matter. Water changes could be fewer, and perhaps only occasional fertilizers or trace minerals would be needed in low tech tank.
I realize this info is not helping to identify the problem that is taking your cory's but perhaps is something to think on at later point? 
I would strongly recommend PRIME as conditioner for treating the water for it detoxifies not only ammonia,nitrites,and chlorine, but also detoxifies any heavy metals that may be present in source water. Not all water conditioners/Dechlorinators are the same with afore mentioned abilities.
Truly wish I could be of more help and hope things turn around soon.


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## SmoothSailor

*bulge*

Actually I was watching this fish early yesterday. The bulge was there before it died.




fresh.salty said:


> The lower bulge doesn't look good but then we're looking at a dead fish so who knows.


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## SmoothSailor

Update: The death has stopped. I lost about 11 albino corys and 10 green corys. I started doing massive water changes. I don't know if it was the water changes that helped, the fact that I stopped dosing my ferts (which I have resumed) or all the sick fish died off. I am still very sad that I lost so many fish. Happily I didn't lose them all. I hope that with time they will breed. I'm not worried about that now, I'm just happy they are alive. Thanks everyone for your help.


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## MarkMc

Sorry about your corys. Just wanted to add my 2 cents concerning dosing nitrates. I've never read, seen or heard about any study investigating toxic levels of nitrate to tropical fish. I'm sure there are some species that are more tolerant and some that are less tolerant of elevated levels of nitrate. Nitrite is another matter, of course. 40ppm of nitrate from an uncalibrated pet store test kit (I'm assuming that you didn't calibrate the test kit) is no smoking gun that's for sure. From reading your account of what happened I would surmise that it was a case of an infection that the corys were particularly susceptible to or already carried. IMO 40ppm is not a toxic level for tropical fish. If there is a study out there I'd be interested in reading it. If you dose regularly those amounts you should do at least 50% water changes to reset the levels down. As for water quality if you can drink it it's probably ok for the fish I imagine.


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## SmoothSailor

Mark, I do believe you are correct. Regretfully the disease moved way too fast. I lost two more corys since this previous post. I have 2 white corys. I had almost 15. I have a few green corys, maybe 5. I had over 16. And....EVERY ONE of my sterbai corys lived. I actually was able to count them a few days ago. I contacted the breeder to see if she had anymore. She had sold all her fish. I am hopeful that I can perhaps breed my corys just to get the numbers back up. Everyday I look at my tank and see if someone died. I still feel heartbroken over my loss. 
I had to restart my fert dosing. I am now abiding by a strict schedule of fert dosing and water changes. 
And as usual....my corys are acting happy and hungry.  I love my little fishys. I hope no one else dies.


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