# Chihiros WRGB II - Dead



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

I'd suspect the power brick first


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

Very possible, I don't have a replacement for it off hand but it is certainly easier to come by. The power brick does have a little green LED on it that still works, for whatever that's worth.


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## kyle3 (May 26, 2005)

yikes! that really sucks! I wish I could offer help but all I’ve got to offer is my commiseration - really hope you don’t have to replace the whole light!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> The power brick does have a little green LED on it that still works, for whatever that's worth.


My experience w/ various power bricks is the light is almost worthless.
If it's out yea. If it is on...????


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> My experience w/ various power bricks is the light is almost worthless.
> If it's out yea. If it is on...????


Gotcha, well I ordered a new power adapter, it should come on Wednesday. I fortunately have a sorta backup lighting option (this is for a tank that is under a kitchen cabinet. That cabinet had 6000k leds installed as under cabinet lighting). Definitely significantly dimmer then the WRGB, but better then nothing. I'll leave those on for 12 hours a day and hope the new brick solves the problem. If not I'll be shopping for a new light.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

Let us know if the power brick solves the problem.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> Gotcha, well I ordered a new power adapter, it should come on Wednesday. I fortunately have a sorta backup lighting option (this is for a tank that is under a kitchen cabinet. That cabinet had 6000k leds installed as under cabinet lighting). Definitely significantly dimmer then the WRGB, but better then nothing. I'll leave those on for 12 hours a day and hope the new brick solves the problem. If not I'll be shopping for a new light.


Yes I hope that is it.
Shouldn't be hard to gut it down to just the board .....but let's not go there...yet.
I am curious where all the control " bits" are .


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> Yes I hope that is it.
> Shouldn't be hard to gut it down to just the board .....but let's not go there...yet.
> I am curious where all the control " bits" are .


My guess is that the control parts are located in the cord. There is a weird bulge that is not part of the power brick. Here is a picture of another of their lights the C2 which has this part as a removable object (on mine it does not have the extra disconect) in the middle bottom of the picture.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> My guess is that the control parts are located in the cord. There is a weird bulge that is not part of the power brick. Here is a picture of another of their lights the C2 which has this part as a removable object (on mine it does not have the extra disconect) in the middle bottom of the picture.


Yes looks to be "in-line"
Sort of a good thing, You could replace it w/ any controller after you figure out "ground" which should be (+) ..
rest of the wiring will be each channels (-) which is what is switched on/off to dim..


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> Yes looks to be "in-line"
> Sort of a good thing, You could replace it w/ any controller after you figure out "ground" which should be (+) ..
> rest of the wiring will be each channels (-) which is what is switched on/off to dim..


New power adapter came in, but sadly no joy. Any thoughts on how to open this thing up that doesn't involve say a dremel cutting disc?


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## Plinkploop (Jan 24, 2021)

I'd say try this on the old one cuz it's probably not going to work. You could try cutting the cord at the base and using a razor blade to separate the housing... This advice is coming from my hubby- he just hacked apart a nano light with a short in that section of the cord and that's how he got to it... I don't listen to him all that often 😉 so take it with a grain of salt.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

Plinkploop said:


> I'd say try this on the old one cuz it's probably not going to work. You could try cutting the cord at the base and using a razor blade to separate the housing... This advice is coming from my hubby- he just hacked apart a nano light with a short in that section of the cord and that's how he got to it... I don't listen to him all that often 😉 so take it with a grain of salt.


I'll give it a shot. I'm planning to tackle this sometime in the next hour or so and then decide if I need to go buy a new light. I'm kinda done with my current under the counter arrangement. If I go to replace it, I will probably use a fluval 3.0 because I can pick them up locally.


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## Plinkploop (Jan 24, 2021)

Lol I gave my hubby a lot of craps but he has honestly saved me thousands with his ability to take things apart and fix them.... I'm just the one that figures out how to put them back together so I get nervous telling anyone to cut into anything 😂😂


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

Plinkploop said:


> Lol I gave my hubby a lot of craps but he has honestly saved me thousands with his ability to take things apart and fix them.... I'm just the one that figures out how to put them back together so I get nervous telling anyone to cut into anything 😂😂


I'll give it a shot, I'm planning to tackle this sometime today. If I can't open it up and find something clearly wrong with it I will probably just buy something tonight. I'm kinda over the whole undercabinet lighting backup solution.


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## Plinkploop (Jan 24, 2021)

minorhero said:


> I'll give it a shot, I'm planning to tackle this sometime today. If I can't open it up and find something clearly wrong with it I will probably just buy something tonight. I'm kinda over the whole undercabinet lighting backup solution.


I don't blame you. Good luck!!


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

No joy on the rebuilding of this light. I tried the razor blade into the crack method. Tapped it with a hammer even and while that worked to a limited extent it was very slow going. I decided to proceed with the use of a dremel and a cutting wheel. This worked but only after doing both sides. What I found was a little surprising. It looks like they filled the interior with some kind of silicone or rubber, after they put it together. I'm guessing this si done to make it waterproof. I forgot to take a picture before I started picking it apart, but here is what it looked like before I got it all off.










I was able to remove the vast majority of the stuff by picking it apart in small pieces with my finger and with a small metal tool.

Here is what it looked like then:




























Sadly to my complete consternation there was no on/off switch flipped to the off position. Nor did I see any obvious burn marks of something having sizzled out. I did try plugging it back in and found the darn thing had a light on it! But that's where the excitement ended. Still no joy.










At this point I am considering other light options. Given its location I need a 12" light. Ideally one with app control but I don't think I will find one I like at the price point I want to pay. So likely its going to be something like a twinstar budget model or something similar.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

At 12 inches you could consider a 50 watt or even 25 watt flood light for $20 ish dollars. They aren't as pretty but they are ip68, bright and effective.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jake21 said:


> At 12 inches you could consider a 50 watt or even 25 watt flood light for $20 ish dollars. They aren't as pretty but they are ip68, bright and effective.


I definitely do care about colors though. I want a light that will make my fish look good. Plus I need to be able to dim it till I get the right amount of par.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> I definitely do care about colors though. I want a light that will make my fish look good. Plus I need to be able to dim it till I get the right amount of par.


That def. looks like it didn't want to come apart.. ever..

Why not just hack in a new controller..?
To be honest looks like it's constant current based..which it is really surprising.
4 (I think, only see hints of 3 atm) driver circuits and the wifi brains..
4 caps 4 coils (150)
Pretty odd all would fail unless wifi failed.


Light is for the wifi .
That board looks to be easily removable.. so pull the wifi.
Should pull right up..
err unplug it first.
If you get real lucky lights will go on.

There are replacements (4 is out of stock):








Chihiros - Dimming Bluetooth Controller - Commander 1


The Chihiros Dimming Bluetooth Controller allows wireless control of Chihiros lamps via the "My Chihiros App" making it possible to program a course of the day with a...




www.aquasabi.com


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> That def. looks like it didn't want to come apart.. ever..
> 
> Why not just hack in a new controller..?
> To be honest looks like it's constant current based..which it is really surprising.
> ...


DOH! Forgot about the commander modules. Looks like I need commander 4 (which is for the WRGB 1 which did not have built in bluetooth). That would almost certainly be a complete drop-in replacement since my understanding is that the actual light is identical between the WRGB 1 and the WRGB 2. 

Only problem.... its sold out.. everywhere, even ali-express doesn't have it in stock........ I think this just become a longer term project, but I still need a light soonish and not an unknown amount of time from now, so I'm likely still going to be buying a twinstar tonight or something similar. Have to find one that will let me hang a 12" model.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> DOH! Forgot about the commander modules. Looks like I need commander 4 (which is for the WRGB 1 which did not have built in bluetooth). That would almost certainly be a complete drop-in replacement since my understanding is that the actual light is identical between the WRGB 1 and the WRGB 2.
> 
> Only problem.... its sold out.. everywhere, even ali-express doesn't have it in stock........ I think this just become a longer term project, but I still need a light soonish and not an unknown amount of time from now, so I'm likely still going to be buying a twinstar tonight or something similar. Have to find one that will let me hang a 12" model.


Did you try to pull the wireless board?
Not much to lose at this point..

Also there should be 4 driver ic's and possibly 4 mosfets.
Can you get me some numbers off the little black squares?


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> Did you try to pull the wireless board?


Heh after your insistence I did pull it, but sadly it did not activate the light when plugged in.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

There is an rgb model which allows individual lights to be set so there is some hope there - I've not used it so i can't provide personal feed back:

Here is one of them that is 60 watt - this is a double pack for two lights hence added cost:


https://amazon.com/Ustellar-Changing-Floodlight-Waterproof-Dimmable/dp/B0874NSLJX



It is only ip66 - i want to stress i haven't tried any of hte rgb lights but i've read a few threads in which people say they work fairly well.



minorhero said:


> I definitely do care about colors though. I want a light that will make my fish look good. Plus I need to be able to dim it till I get the right amount of par.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> Did you try to pull the wireless board?





jeffkrol said:


> Did you try to pull the wireless board?
> Not much to lose at this point..





minorhero said:


> Heh after your insistence I did pull it, but sadly it did not activate the light when plugged in.


Man.. I'm 0 for 2 here..
But thanks.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jake21 said:


> There is an rgb model which allows individual lights to be set so there is some hope there - I've not used it so i can't provide personal feed back:
> 
> Here is one of them that is 60 watt - this is a double pack for two lights hence added cost:
> 
> ...


3 6 or 12hr timer


> One remote control can only control one LED flood light, can‘t control two at the same time.


Interesting.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

Also there are other rgb models with slightly different features so consider that - i just picked on at random.



jeffkrol said:


> 3 6 or 12hr timer
> 
> Interesting.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

Well I pulled the trigger on a new light. While on other tanks I have no problem with diy lighting solutions, (actually 2 other tanks and a third in waiting), for this tank I've wanted to keep it commercial, in part because of space limitations, and in part for aesthetics.

Anyway I settled on a Twinstar III SA (30cm) version. I originally thought I would go with an E or C edition but the price difference was only about 30 dollars. I also bought the inline dimmer that goes with it. I will need to rig up my own way of hanging it (probably need to drill the ends), but other then that it should be good to go. When I can buy a commander 4 module I will go ahead and do that and then I can have an extra light available for down the road.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> Well I pulled the trigger on a new light. While on other tanks I have no problem with diy lighting solutions, (actually 2 other tanks and a third in waiting), for this tank I've wanted to keep it commercial, in part because of space limitations, and in part for aesthetics.
> 
> Anyway I settled on a Twinstar III SA (30cm) version. I originally thought I would go with an E or C edition but the price difference was only about 30 dollars. I also bought the inline dimmer that goes with it. I will need to rig up my own way of hanging it (probably need to drill the ends), but other then that it should be good to go. When I can buy a commander 4 module I will go ahead and do that and then I can have an extra light available for down the road.


Cool..
Hey with those rods for legs you could just flip them upside down to hang..
(0 for 3????)

Still very curious about the "drivers"
of the Chihiros., if you get a minute numbers off the 2 different black squarish ic's or a nice closeup of the board w/ out the wifi module.

sorry just impressed it's different and apparently designed in house by Chihiros.

Oh and to add to my bugging .. how many output wires are there?

Peace offering..It is only 3 channels..And six wires.. whoo hoo!!


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> Cool..
> Hey with those rods for legs you could just flip them upside down to hang..
> (0 for 3????)
> 
> ...


Heh I actually considered running the legs upside down ;P But yeah no, that won't work.

Hopefully this picture is helpful:










There appear to be 6 wires coming from the light. They have it enclosed in a block of acrylic which was clearly also poured after they assembled the unit and before they added the silicone rubber stuff.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> Heh I actually considered running the legs upside down ;P But yeah no, that won't work.
> 
> Hopefully this picture is helpful:
> 
> ...


Very last question, Can you see the numbers engraved on this IC or any like it?
If it's a driver then a schematic of how it's used may help.. someone..


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> Very last question, Can you see the numbers engraved on this IC or any like it?
> If it's a driver then a schematic of how it's used may help.. someone..
> View attachment 1029247


Sorry, I can't make out anything on top.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

I'm a bit confused - if the problem is that black box after the power supply - there is a sep plug to remove it (that silver thing); so it should be easy enough to order a replacement. Now I'm not saying that is the source of your problem but you don't have to open the actual light to replace it.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> Sorry, I can't make out anything on top.


Thanks for trying..
IF I would have been able to pull up the spec sheet it would have been possible to figure out the drive current and then be able to come up w/ an alternate solution.

There are are 30 diodes each channel and unless the power supply is like 100V out DC must be set in some series/parallel arrangement.

Current to each diode should be around 120mA (1 of 3 in each 5050 smd package 360 mA (x 3v = 1W per "chip", all 3 colors 100%) total per diode based on reported wattage.
Each "color" (ignoring the low voltage of the red for this rough guesstimate)
If all diodes were in series than each channel runs at 120mA and 90V DC
.120 x 90 (1 channel) x 3 channels 32.4W

12V 6A power supply for a 60 and others are 12V so we will assume 12V


So for that to "fit" you are looking at 3 diodes in series 10 strings for each channel
10 x 120 = 1.2A needed to divide current into 10 strings and supply 120mA to each.


STILL not sure if it's constant current or voltage. Voltage would have been slightly easier and way more common.
But that outlined block could be the resistors that set the drive current.
.5 Ohms, .91 Ohms, and .36 Ohms are the current ones.


Knowing what it runs at helps you know how to easily troubleshoot the diodes though pretty sure they are all ok.
also opens up some tweaking if designing ones own control circuit adj. within reason output driver current.


And doing this stuff is kinda fun.. 

another note.. using constant current and various current set resistors allows one to tailor the 100% look
THUS:
.5 Ohms, .91 Ohms, and .36 Ohms 
Each will set a different current thus different output of the 3 colors.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jake21 said:


> I'm a bit confused - if the problem is that black box after the power supply - there is a sep plug to remove it (that silver thing); so it should be easy enough to order a replacement. Now I'm not saying that is the source of your problem but you don't have to open the actual light to replace it.
> 
> 
> View attachment 1029251


I wish it was that simple, mine does not actually have a separate plug to disconnect the control box. So I would need to cut the wire and solder the 6 wires back together. That said, you can't actually buy that one part. Or at least I haven't found anyone who's selling it or has any evidence of ever selling it. I contacted the company but predictably they did not even bother to respond. I guess I'm learning my lesson about buying a Chinese light that is not supported in the United States.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

You should email them a couple of times they are very slow to respond but eventually they will. I'm wondering if you lack that plug if you have a wrgb and not a wrgb ii.... All of my wrgb2 have that plug.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jake21 said:


> You should email them a couple of times they are very slow to respond but eventually they will. I'm wondering if you lack that plug if you have a wrgb and not a wrgb ii.... All of my wrgb2 have that plug.


I can't say its impossible. I bought it as a WRGB II from ali-express and it came in a box that said WRGB II on it. But it's ali-express ... sooo.... /shrug 

Anyway I thought the WRGB 1 didn't have bluetooth built in. 

I'm not holding out hope on chihiros responding. It would be great if they did, but I expect them to ignore me.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> I wish it was that simple, mine does not actually have a separate plug to disconnect the control box. So I would need to cut the wire and solder the 6 wires back together. That said, you can't actually buy that one part. Or at least I haven't found anyone who's selling it or has any evidence of ever selling it. I contacted the company but predictably they did not even bother to respond. I guess I'm learning my lesson about buying a Chinese light that is not supported in the United States.


Message them there
Chihiros Aquatic Studio 

Should be able to get the cable there. .
Maybe just the new cable part and the new controller.
Power supply side should be the same


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> Message them there
> Chihiros Aquatic Studio
> 
> Should be able to get the cable there. .
> ...


I sent them an email previously through their website linked on their facebook page. But for giggles I sent them a facebook message. Like I said, I'm not at all hopeful. I feel like if they wanted to support their product in the USA they would be doing more to sell over here through authorized distributors.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

I think you are correct. Perhaps it was a revision in the model.
---
Btw they do have one official distributor in usa and that is aquarockscolorado. Unfortunately this is a very small store and likely not going to be much help with support.



minorhero said:


> I can't say its impossible. I bought it as a WRGB II from ali-express and it came in a box that said WRGB II on it. But it's ali-express ... sooo.... /shrug
> 
> Anyway I thought the WRGB 1 didn't have bluetooth built in.
> 
> I'm not holding out hope on chihiros responding. It would be great if they did, but I expect them to ignore me.


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## rzn7z7 (Aug 17, 2013)

Aqua Rocks Colorado sells Chihiros lights....perhaps you could contact them for help?...

Aqua Rocks Colorado


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

rzn7z7 said:


> Aqua Rocks Colorado sells Chihiros lights....perhaps you could contact them for help?...
> 
> Aqua Rocks Colorado


I knew they were around and selling chihiros products but had not thought to contact them since I did not purchase my light through them. Still, I've already sent emails elsewhere so I went ahead and contacted them as well. We will see, but again I think its low chance they can help me /shrug.


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## jweisman54 (Feb 16, 2009)

I just purchased this light last night on Amazon for my 9 gallon nano. I hope I don't run into issues.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

jweisman54 said:


> I just purchased this light last night on Amazon for my 9 gallon nano. I hope I don't run into issues.


No idea /shrug. I'm the first person I've heard of having an issue with their lights. Doesn't mean there aren't others, but I'm the first I heard of. So while I can't say I'm super happy with the light currently, I can't help but feel any piece of equipment has a chance of failing early. Still, going forward I will probably not recommend them.


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## richy (Dec 1, 2005)

Sadly, I've joined you in the busted light club. I got mine back in October of last year and already have a non-functional light. Was working perfectly fine until yesterday. Sucks that it already fizzled out after less than a year of use. 

I have the WRGB 2 45cm. The Commander 1 module is a separate piece of hardware on my light, so I'm hoping if I replace it, the light will work again. I'm hoping I get an answer before I make that purchase though. I've reached out to them via email and FB messenger and have yet to receive a response. Did you ever hear back from them?


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## crashbash2020 (Jul 14, 2021)

jeffkrol said:


> Thanks for trying..
> IF I would have been able to pull up the spec sheet it would have been possible to figure out the drive current and then be able to come up w/ an alternate solution.
> 
> There are are 30 diodes each channel and unless the power supply is like 100V out DC must be set in some series/parallel arrangement.
> ...


FYI I have been doing some experimenting to make my own controller, I hate bluetooth and the timer on this unit is terrible (loses time untill you reconnect with your phone) it also gets insanely got, i'm not suprised that these things fail. it really should be in a metal body to sink the heat, at 75% mine reaches a surface temp of 50degrees C. cant imagine how toasty the drivers and ICs are inside.

I have one of the 4foot lights with the plug so i was able to test current and voltage outputs from the Bluetooth brick thing

there is 3 circuits ( 6 pins). the results i got was (at 100% setting on the app):

blue 800mA max (30volt peak)
red 1730mA max (23.85volt peak)
green 2360mA max(30.5volt peak)

I assumed because they were small SMD LEDs they would bea single string of low current, like 300mA. if they are infact constant current drivers like you suggested,it is very bad practice for them to have done parallel , for constant current LEDs, because if 1 branch of LEDs fail, it drives more current down the rest. this in turn makes more LEDs fail, often 1 single LED could cause the power supply to blow the whole circuit if it is running near 100%.

I think it is more likely a crude voltage regulator mosfet than a current controller, and some software firmware input% -> voltage curve. the control i got from input on the device to outputted current DID seem linear (implying a constant current controller), but i cant believe any electronics manufacturer would implement such a design flaw that a single component failing blows the rest of the LEDs. im at an impass what to do at this point as i dont want to apply constant current if that isnt whats in the factory PCB, but constant current is far superior for LED life and performance


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

richy said:


> Sadly, I've joined you in the busted light club. I got mine back in October of last year and already have a non-functional light. Was working perfectly fine until yesterday. Sucks that it already fizzled out after less than a year of use.
> 
> I have the WRGB 2 45cm. The Commander 1 module is a separate piece of hardware on my light, so I'm hoping if I replace it, the light will work again. I'm hoping I get an answer before I make that purchase though. I've reached out to them via email and FB messenger and have yet to receive a response. Did you ever hear back from them?


Sadly no one ever got back to me. If my experience is any guide then you are completely on your own. If you can buy that part then go ahead and do it.


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## richy (Dec 1, 2005)

I managed to get a hold of someone by bombarding them with emails. Their response to me on email: 
*You can ask the seller for warranty*​_*We don’t offer any warranty for you bought from ebay amazon and so on*_​*We only offer warranty for people who bought our items from our dealers who we listed in our official website.*​
I purchased mine off eBay. It is highly doubtful that the eBay seller offers any kind of warranty on anything.

I found an exact match for the controller on AliExpress, so I’m gonna give it a go and see if it works. Fingers crossed!


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## Un Noreach (Oct 2, 2021)

minorhero said:


> I've had my Chihiros WRGB II 30cm for about a year (maybe just under) and today it seems to have died. Its plugged into a surge protector along with the filter and heater. I turned off the surge protector to do my weekly water change and when I turned it back on the light did not come back. The app can't find it. My suspicion is that the bluetooth module (presumably built into the cord) is what died and without it telling the light to turn on it won't turn on.
> 
> Does anyone know of a way to get spare parts that does not involve buying a new light? I already emailed chihiros but I don't have a lot of hope there being they are a chinese company and I bought the light through aliexpress.
> 
> Thanks folks for any help.


Hi brother have you got your light fix yet? I have the same problem


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## richy (Dec 1, 2005)

Un Noreach said:


> Hi brother have you got your light fix yet? I have the same problem


I'm not the OP but I'll update my experience for the benefit of others. 



richy said:


> I found an exact match for the controller on AliExpress, so I’m gonna give it a go and see if it works. Fingers crossed!


The part I ordered from Ali fixed my light and restored its functionality. It took about a month from order to delivery (shipped from China). I'm prepared to purchase a 2nd one just to hedge the possibility that it'll fail a second time. I ordered from the seller NCFAQUA. (I probably should've posted this sooner.)


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

What exactly did you order and how does it fit into the light ?



richy said:


> I'm not the OP but I'll update my experience for the benefit of others.
> 
> 
> 
> The part I ordered from Ali fixed my light and restored its functionality. It took about a month from order to delivery (shipped from China). I'm prepared to purchase a 2nd one just to hedge the possibility that it'll fail a second time. I ordered from the seller NCFAQUA. (I probably should've posted this sooner.)


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## richy (Dec 1, 2005)

I bought the WiFi/Bluetooth Controller unit, which attaches between the fixture and the power brick. I took a chance that it was the controller unit that failed rather than the power supply or the fixture itself. This was probably the cheapest fix.









Direct link here: 25.19US $ 30% OFF|Original Bluetooth Controller Replacement for Chihiros WRGB 2 Aquarium Lights Remote Controller LED Sunrise Sunset Modulator|Lightings| - AliExpress.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

richy said:


> I bought the WiFi/Bluetooth Controller unit, which attaches between the fixture and the power brick. I took a chance that it was the controller unit that failed rather than the power supply or the fixture itself. This was probably the cheapest fix.
> 
> View attachment 1033669
> 
> Direct link here: 25.19US $ 30% OFF|Original Bluetooth Controller Replacement for Chihiros WRGB 2 Aquarium Lights Remote Controller LED Sunrise Sunset Modulator|Lightings| - AliExpress.


Wow. How the freak did that fail. I asked because I have several of the units and i'm dreading they will all break now.
--
btw your link is broken.


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## richy (Dec 1, 2005)

I couldn't tell you why it failed, just that it did. The controller literally stopped working one day. The light wouldn't turn on and I couldn't find the light in the Chihiros App. That it wasn't showing in the app gave me a clue that the controller may be the broken part. I didn't bother with trying to open it up and fixing it that way (I'm not that handy).

The link works for me. Worst case, google "chihiros bluetooth controller wrgb 2" and the search results should contain the part you need. Good luck!


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

richy said:


> I couldn't tell you why it failed, just that it did. The controller literally stopped working one day. The light wouldn't turn on and I couldn't find the light in the Chihiros App. That it wasn't showing in the app gave me a clue that the controller may be the broken part. I didn't bother with trying to open it up and fixing it that way (I'm not that handy).
> 
> The link works for me. Worst case, google "chihiros bluetooth controller wrgb 2" and the search results should contain the part you need. Good luck!


Thanks I found it last night from the same seller. Trying to decide if i should buy a few just in case mine fail. Of course if they last less than a year even if i buy a couple of spare the total life span won't be long. Hardly worth buying the lights.


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

I never got my light fixed. But also have not ordered parts or done anything with it since last posting in this thread.


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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

Well I had a scare today with my wrgb 2 30. At shut off the blue channel did not shut off; when I tried to connect with my phone i could not. I unplugged it and plugged it back in no good. I had to unscrew the plug on the other end and reseat it and it started working again. I'm wondering if it is super sensitive to humidity (i live in the south east and this was an esp humid day due to low hanging rain (if that makes sense)). I'll see if it working as normal tomorrow. I think this will also be my last wrgb2 unit. I had a similar issue with the wrgb2 90 on my 40B a few months ago. 
-
While not the brightest light I gotta say those fluval plant 3.0 are well made AND well sealed.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

crashbash2020 said:


> there is 3 circuits ( 6 pins). the results i got was (at 100% setting on the app):
> 
> blue 800mA max (30volt peak)
> red 1730mA max (23.85volt peak)
> green 2360mA max(30.5volt peak)


Just replace it all w/ a 700mA and 2 1500mA
Ldd-lw...
Green will be under driven the most.
Cheapest way to at least make it functional.
Looks like each " string" is about 10 diodes.


https://scontent-ort2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.6435-9/76756882_2423542234535443_2074984956525805568_n.jpg?_nc_cat=104&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=730e14&_nc_ohc=3VLjkA1rO7cAX-M_8-Z&_nc_ht=scontent-ort2-2.xx&oh=b4a09d749f63732e1271938101e8f0a0&oe=617EBE65



The thing is each light size will have a different mA output on the channels.
If you look at the picture you will see where I beleve they make the adjustment.. There is a resistor "block" by either adding resistors in parallel or a different one you change the current setpoint.










You look to have 120 3 in one leds.
so 2360mA / 12 = 197mA 's .6W
67mA blue .2W
144mA on red .35W
On the diodes

Each being .6 + .2 + .35 = 1.15
1.15 x 120 = 138 W
Fixtures listed 130............ 

COMPLICATION is if one wants to substitute other drivers the size has to be considered.
With a "60 piece" light the current would be cut in half
blue 800mA max (30volt peak)
red 1730mA max (23.85volt peak)
green 2360mA max(30.5volt peak)
Each divided by 2


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## minorhero (Mar 28, 2019)

But then I would lose all app functionality. Which is not the most important but still pretty important for the light. And I'll be honest I have no idea how to do most of what you just said


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

minorhero said:


> But then I would lose all app functionality. Which is not the most important but still pretty important for the light. And I'll be honest I have no idea how to do most of what you just said


Power supply.....Meanwell ldd.....2 wires to the color in the light head. 

As to app... You would need to just find a controller.
Slightly modified tc-421.
Switch to ldd-h's and bluefish mini 
Any controller that works with 5v pwm dimming.

This really is a last resort type thing and certainly far from perfect and there may be better drivers ( higher current,) but not cheaper.

For a few bucks you can manually dim the ldds.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

What I don't understand is you shouldn't have a universal replacement.
I "suspect" color is not "color".
What a mess.








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## jake21 (Aug 11, 2019)

jeffkrol said:


> What I don't understand is you shouldn't have a universal replacement.
> I "suspect" color is not "color".
> What a mess.
> 
> ...


If you click on colour it shows the wrgb model it supports. They have one for each model 30,45,90,120.
--
I am a bit confused why you require different model for different size units; shouldn't a universal controller be possible ?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jake21 said:


> If you click on colour it shows the wrgb model it supports. They have one for each model 30,45,90,120.
> --
> I am a bit confused why you require different model for different size units; shouldn't a universal controller be possible ?


No because
they run at constant current with different amount of series parallel strings per model.

A 6 string x 10 diode string will need a different current than a 12 string 10 diode string array .

Say you want the 10 in series diodes to run at .5A

If you put 6 of these in parallel you need the driver to output 6x .5 Amps
12 in parallel 12x .5
Voltage adds in series.
Current adds in parallel.

Technically the controller IS universal, the thing they control ( driver output )..is not..


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## JensenPhan (3 mo ago)

Have anyone can get a schematic of this board? I burned an IC, i need to fix it by hand wire.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

JensenPhan said:


> Have anyone can get a schematic of this board? I burned an IC, i need to fix it by hand wire.


Which board?


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## JensenPhan (3 mo ago)

I am asking for bluetooth board for Chihiros WRGB 60cm


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## Raith (Jun 27, 2014)

Have not fixed these, but there's power adapters with Finnex lights too, and they stop working, through and through, it's always been a capacitor issue, but do I really want to buy 250 caps for one light? Not really...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

JensenPhan said:


> I am asking for bluetooth board for Chihiros WRGB 60cm


Soo the board on top in this pic? Not the driver board underneath.
Actually probably doesn't matter.. If you are referring to the microprocessor it would probably be pointless to attempt a replacement.










Or are you referring to the old
"Commander" units?








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