# DIY lED lighting build/Questions



## Nexgen (Jul 1, 2015)

Lets start with the power supply for the leds. 30, 50, and 100w led drivers usually draw 36v at varying currents, so you would need a power supply that is also 36v. But you also need to be able to deliver the current needed, which for 30w leds is about 1A per led, so if you go with 10 leds that is 10A. For 50w leds thats 1.75A per led so 17.5A. So if you go with the 30w leds you will need a 36v 10a power supply for that you could go the cheaper route or the more expensive route. Personally I would recommend the more expensive meanwell power supply but that's up to you. Now let me say though that you will see that those power supplies are only rated to 9.6A, so it may be advisable to use 2 power supplies. If you go the 50w led route you will have to use 2 power supplies the previously mentioned ones are what you will use. When using 2 power supplies you could put all the ww on one and all the cw on the other. Now when it comes to the fans you have many options:
1. You can buy one of these, which has a 4 pin molex connector on it that can be connected directly to the fans (some come with molex connectors, others will need a 4pin molex to 3 pin fan header [assuming you use standard computer case fans], or you could just solder them together). Here you could either:
A. wire the fans directly to the power supply, where they would run at full speed all the time, whoch could be loud
B. use a controller like this or this, which would have to have a splitter on each channel to control two fans. The first just has sliders to adjust the fan speed; the second has a temp sensor that you can set to come on at a set temperature and is a touch screen display.
2. you can get one of these, which would take the output of the 36v power supply and step it down to 12v or lower, lower would slow the fan. The output voltage of this is able to be set to what ever you want.
Finally the wire you would use is 16 AWG wire. The cheapest type is called primary wire, it is used in automotive wiring so its cheap. The wire for the fans could be smaller, so like 20 AWG.
When it comes to using 30w or 50w leds that would be a question better answered by someone else.
Now as a word of warning this is a lot of power at high voltage and high amperage, if you don't know what you are doing, when it comes to wiring, find someone who knows what they are doing, or do plenty of research on how to make proper connections. Other wise you could kill yourself or your fish or start a fire. I assume you have some experience in wiring but I have seen people who think the know what the are doing but don't. I am going to college as a Electrical Engineer, but if I have misspoken, anyone can feel free to correct me.
I apologize for the long post, but I wanted to try to get everything in one post.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Think about using Vero Decor 18's...5600k
And Decor food Vero 2500k
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...DS34 Bridgelux Decor Series Data Sheet _0.pdf


Averages to 4000k w/ very high CRI and very high lumens/watt..
Typical voltage is only 30v allowing them to be driven W a 36V power supply and Meanwll LDD's (allowing PWM dimming)
Usually around $11 each add $7/driver 

so 18/per diode/ $36/cluster..
At 126/118 lumens per watt..

7320 lumens per 2 chip cluster.. 
using 5 clusters is 36.600 lumens


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

I'm liking Jeffk's thinking here.

As for PWM check out Coralux.net's StormX controller.
12 bit dimming accept nothing less.
Driver boards with sockets available there too.

Maybe don't mount everything to wood either.
Some aluminum stock would be a better option.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

so those leds would cover the spectrum needed? If so, how many would I need to adequately light my aquarium?


thank you all so much for the input. Giving me a lot to take in to consideration.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Think about using Vero Decor 18's...5600k
> And Decor food Vero 2500k
> http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...DS34 Bridgelux Decor Series Data Sheet _0.pdf
> 
> ...


So if I went this route, would I still need two meanwell power supplies?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> So if I went this route, would I still need two meanwell power supplies?


roughly you would need a 10A 36V ps.. 

To be honest, it is a ton of light, more than you will probably need but most don't want to "underdrive" their lights..
So you could use 700mA drivers.. .7x10 =7 a
This would work for both obviously.
HRPG-450-36: MEAN WELL: Power Supplies & Wall Adapters

One or 2 depending..
RSP-320-36: MEAN WELL: Power Supplies & Wall Adapters

Or this one..
*Mean Well SE-350-36 AC/DC Single Output Switching Power Supply 36V 9.7A 350W*



$64.......
Borderlne but if you notice these ps vary only by output..
All 350W..
http://www.meanwell.com/mw_search/se-350/SE-350-SPEC.PDF

I believe by decreasing the voltage you increase amp capacity..'
W/ the above trimming it to 33V would give you more AMP headroom..
10.6A...

Personally I'd go w/ the above and decrease a few drivers from 1A to 700mA..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Once again, thank you for your input. So I found this Mean Well SE-350-36 AC/DC Single Output Switching Power Supply 36V 9.7A 350W for $43.00 on this website: SE-350 | Mean Well SE-350 | USA Warehouse
but of course, the only one I want says to "call for availability", I'm going to do that tomorrow and hope that the reason is because of a limited stock.

And I just found another thread using the Vero led's, they're pretty intense; I like intense. With that being said, do I maybe have too many? should I do 4 clusters instead of 5? I do not want any dark spots though. I like the idea of using 700mA drivers now.
I suppose it would be mandatory (stupid not to) to get a dimmer controller as well?


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

36VDC 11amp $42.99
Amazon.com: Autek 36V 11A 400W DC Regulated Switching Power Supply CNC 400W: Electronics


No issues using LDD1000 at a quantity of 10.

Dimming is really nice, LDD drivers on a breakout board are easy.
When the algae farm begins it is easy to dim.
You won't be raising your light or covering with window screen etc...

Should have asked what your budget is on this lighting project?


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

With the Autek, should I still do 700mA drivers instead of 1A, it should be able to take all 1A since it would only total to 10A, right? Or would that still be dangerous to have to near full capacity?
That is exactly what I want, to be able to dim when the algae shows up, but I am not familiar with breakout boards either.

well it was around $200, but at the same time, I would rather not cut corners, and make one awesome led light bar that is going to last and give me the results I want.

Thank you!

you tube explains a lot.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Found an interesting article this morning.
Aquarium LED Lights, Controllers, PWM; What is Best | My Aquarium Opinions

It is another opinion, but with much truth.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

yeah, so ill be ordering storm controller and taking the pwm route.

As far as a stormX vs storm controller goes, the storm is only 6 channel and the stormX is 10 channel. If I wanted to use 10 LEDs I would need the 10 channel, correct? 
I don't necessarily care for the sunrise/sunset or digital screen. I just want something that can consistently dim my LEDs. Are there cheaper, quality options?


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikevwall it appears we have blown your budget.

$43 - Power Supply 36VDC 11Amp
$140 - 10/30watt LED's (DigiKey price)
$70 - LDD drivers (1000mA)
$28 - optional driver boards with sockets
$106 - PWM StormX with 2 cables. (10 channels needed-6 extra)

Just under $400 and no heat sink or fan considerations.

Checked EvilBay this morning.
A Chinese vendor 30watt LED w/driver & single heat-sink is $22
$220 for ten cheap items and dimming was never considered.
I would not consider the evilbay choice as an option, only noted as $ comparison.

To receive the vendor prescribed spectrum LED's should be driven at vendor spec current.
You will need to dim this LED combination and with PWM you will not approach the 10 amp.
Never set all channels to the exact same dimming level.

JeffK has lots of charts and info.
Maybe one showing current reduction effects on spectral analysis.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikevwall said:


> yeah, so ill be ordering storm controller and taking the pwm route.


If this is truly where you want to go.
StormX has enough channels and 12 bit dimming.

8 bit dimming with the regular storm is disappointing.
Cannot really dim to 0% and is very skippy between intensity.

I cannot provide a vendor review here.
If you contact Coralux.net they will respond with answers and assistance before you make your purchase.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So do I have this right:
On the aluminum stock I mount my LED's.
I connect my LED's to the pwm drivers/driverboard. 
From there I connect my driver board to my controller.
The controller hooks up to the power supply, which plugs in to the socket.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

I like the sunrise/sunset feature a lot. Set it forget it.
Cloud cover at a low setting seams okay.
I turned off the lightning feature, always turns my head thinking something is failing.

StormX is 16 channels, you can build another tank with the other 6.
Multiple tank downfall is the lighting schedule applies to all.
Dimming is strictly per channel though.

Bump: Controller comes with a small plug-in power supply.
This only powers controller.
Cables with header take PWM signal from controller to driver board.

High amp power supply only goes to driver board / 2 in your case.

Never mind. Scroll through this.
I hope this helps.

http://coralux.net/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/downloadables/Storm-Controller-Manual.pdf


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Yeah I knew I blew my budget by a long shot last night, but I had no idea what I was getting in to, which is fine. I do not want to take the cheap route, been there one too many times. This is a major DIY project for me and the lights are my last step.
I built the stand and canopy, received the aquarium for free and then resealed, fit together the co2 system from a bunch of gifted parts, built the wet/dry filter (which I then took out and attempted to build a canister filter, but had no luck so ended up buying one).
I want this to be something I don't cringe at every time I see it or always think that "this could be better."

Guppy, you've been way more help than I would have ever expected. Everyone's input has helped. Thank you.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Thanks.

A word of caution though.
Reading threads before where individuals have tried a DIY lighting project.
Failed miserably and threw it away and complained all the way.
Can only explain what has worked for me.

The electronics part of these DIY projects can be non-rewarding.
It all comes in the mail, you put it together in 30 minutes or less.
That's a lot of money with very little time involved.
Still having to deal with LED's and heatsink/fans mounting and construction.

Bump:


Mikevwall said:


> built the wet/dry filter (which I then took out and attempted to build a canister filter, but had no luck so ended up buying one).


Should have started a thread about canister filter.
Others maybe would have helped with design too.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

I looked through ton of through of threads about DIY canister filters and never ended up seeing much success, and the last thing I wanted was to come home after working nine hours to find 100+ gallons on the floor of my living room. 
And unless you can suggest some light fixtures for around the same price for a 150 gal (I don't want to deal with fluorescents) that's going to give me full coverage and solid par.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

I am beginning to feel that 10 of these led's may be overkill.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> yeah, so ill be ordering storm controller and taking the pwm route.
> 
> As far as a stormX vs storm controller goes, the storm is only 6 channel and the stormX is 10 channel. If I wanted to use 10 LEDs I would need the 10 channel, correct?
> I don't necessarily care for the sunrise/sunset or digital screen. I just want something that can consistently dim my LEDs. Are there cheaper, quality options?


you only need 2 channels.. Multiple LDD's can be put on each channel in parallel...
You have a "warm white" and a "cool white' channel

10 is way overkill.. 3 of each should be plenty..
6 total..
4 clusters more ideal..
a Typhon or a simple storm is fine..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> you only need 2 channels.. Multiple LDD's can be put on each channel in parallel...
> You have a "warm white" and a "cool white' channel
> 
> 10 is way overkill.. 3 of each should be plenty..
> ...



So with budget not being a concern, and total, even coverage being more vital, you would recommend that I get four of each?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Maybe one showing current reduction effects on spectral analysis.


W/ PWM dimming (full current shorter period of time) I don't really consider spectrum changes for our uses. 
Same w// decreasing drive current in a smallish range..
But for the more technically inclined:
LED Color Shift Under PWM Dimming | DigiKey
See pg 11,12 (or 9,10)
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/defa...2 Vero 18 Array Data Sheet Rev H 20150908.pdf

color shift on both x,y axis w/ case temp increase, which corresponds somewhat w/ drive current..


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> So with budget not being a concern, and total, even coverage being more vital, you would recommend that I get four of each?


Here are 12 over a 225..
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/603658-o2surpluss-6-new-led-build.html



> I currently have all 6 “cool whites” being driven at 1000ma and the “warm white” at 300ma.


A few notes.. I assume 72" tank is your size.. 
Clusters don't need to that be close together.. and center cluster of 4 is well a choice..

To each their own..

8 should be fine..


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> you only need 2 channels.. Multiple LDD's can be put on each channel in parallel...
> You have a "warm white" and a "cool white' channel
> 
> 10 is way overkill.. 3 of each should be plenty..
> ...


Need to decide if $30 difference in 8 bit to 12 bit dimming is worth it with Coralux.
Typhon controller 8 or 12 bit?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Need to decide if $30 difference in 8 bit to 12 bit dimming is worth it with Coralux.
> Typhon controller 8 or 12 bit?


more bits the merrier.. 
BUT there is a catch...(isn't here always) eye sensitivity is logarithmic soo the added bits are more important at the low end.. say 0-50%.. After that 8bit is much less noticeable. 
Correcting for non-linear brightness in LEDs when using PWM - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange
Technically dimming should be done in more bits low and less bits high.. sort of.. 

Oh w/ an FTDI chip and Typhon, you can recode it yourself to a higher bit rate..
My Typhon is not "stock" code..
Just got to find the right sketch and download it..
8 bit non-linear is OK..just makes it easier in 10-12bit to "fudge"..
Reprogramming the Typhon - Lighting Forum - Nano-Reef.com Forums


> *Updated 2/23/14.*
> *Features:*
> -Bell curve option instead of straight line
> -255 dimming steps
> ...


Not sure what is out in the "wild" today.. W/ wifi and bluetooth and apps being "cooler" DIY's on "simple" tweaks are not popular.
Got mine from O2 surplus..

Consider the whole package before deciding..or how much futzing you want to do..

Oh, and one thing that seems common, is these DIY sketches are never done.. 

stock Typhon is 8bit........

Quote I found interesting:


> a uno is a storm and a storm x is just a uno with a pca chip installed on board


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

Go with 6 to no more than 8 Vero 18's driven at 700ma. You won't be disappointed. I had twelve on my 225 and that was epic overkill. As for controllers, I've had them all. Check out the BlueFish Mini. It makes the StormX look like an antique.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

I do not want to do too much futzing. Just want to find the right light level that allows all of my plants to grow, without having dark edges/gaps in the tank. The only futzing I could possibly think of doing is having the two center led's a tad bit brighter because of the 20 inch glass brace. I think the storm is going to be more my style due to user friendliness, and to be honest, there is still a decent amount of information and terminology you two are throwing around that I still do no fully comprehend.
The light fixture will be hung 12 inches above the waterline. It seems everyone who has used the LED's has them cranked way down, so it seems I would just be better off getting the smaller drivers (like you mentioned earlier).
With that being said, I'm on the fence as to whether or not I should run three or four clusters.
Ill take pictures of my current set up when my lights come on (another 5 hours). I assure you this let rail is getting made, once I have a full parts list.


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

If you are only running 2 channels, why not just go with the typhon and save $60+. Ive got an O2Surplus built typhon thats never been used if interested


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

You "might" lose 10-15% AT the brace but is is really negligible..

Ignore bit rates, you weren't concerned w/ it really. It is a side note..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

flyfshrmn98 said:


> If you are only running 2 channels, why not just go with the typhon and save $60+. Ive got an O2Surplus built typhon thats never been used if interested


I am..


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Even better on the budget now.
Less on a controller and not as many LED's and drivers.:smile2:


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Even better on the budget now.
> Less on a controller and not as many LED's and drivers.:smile2:


I sure am, substantially!
So I am ready to start placing my orders! I'm looking at bridgelux led's right now.

Bump: ok, so I do not want to rush anything and buy the wrong items, so I could use some more help. In my cart on Digi key I have my 6 led's (3 of each) and would like someone to verify the id number and say these are the correct ones before I purchase.

*Cool white*
Digi key part number: 976-1287-ND
Manufacturer part number: BXRC-56G4000-F-24

*Warm white*
Digi key part number: 976-1242-ND
Manufacturer part number: BXRC-27E4000-F-23

Thankyou


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Mikevwall said:


> I sure am, substantially!
> So I am ready to start placing my orders! I'm looking at bridgelux led's right now.
> 
> Bump: ok, so I do not want to rush anything and buy the wrong items, so I could use some more help. In my cart on Digi key I have my 6 led's (3 of each) and would like someone to verify the id number and say these are the correct ones before I purchase.
> ...


jeffkrol gave me specs and parts number on the 1st page of this thread and my warm whites are not the same as his recommended.

Bump:


Mikevwall said:


> I sure am, substantially!
> So I am ready to start placing my orders! I'm looking at bridgelux led's right now.
> 
> Bump: ok, so I do not want to rush anything and buy the wrong items, so I could use some more help. In my cart on Digi key I have my 6 led's (3 of each) and would like someone to verify the id number and say these are the correct ones before I purchase.
> ...


jeffkrol gave me specs and parts number on the 1st page of this thread and my warm whites are not the same as his recommended.

Bump: Never mind, I found the recommend ones.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Ok.
LED's w/ quick connects: $100.00
Typhon controller: $38.00
Heat sinks: $50.00

now on to the drivers..
I am going to order the drivers and boards from "stevesleds.com
1000mA


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Ok.
> LED's w/ quick connects: $100.00
> Typhon controller: $38.00
> 
> ...


The LDD drivers right? not "steves" drivers..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So need help with how to appropriately cool the whole board down now. Would like to do one large shipping order from steves led's to any addition shipping fees.
with that being said, I need:
-power source (should I still go with the Autek?)
- wire (which type/ how much) 
- fans (pressurizing cooling fan any good?), how many? Could that fan also hook up to my typhon?
-screws?

I was thinking about using a 6ft x 1/2 in aluminum metal flat bar as the light rail and ordering heat sinks off of [Ebay Link Removed]
Would I just use thermal adhesive to attach the led's to the underside?
Being that the board is 1/2 inch thick, could I just attach heat sinks to the top of the bar, or do I need to have the heat sinks directly glued to the led's?

Thanks again for all the help, I could not do this without the forum!

Bump:


jeffkrol said:


> The LDD drivers right? not "steves" drivers..


yea, the meanwell drivers? I still haven't placed that order. Waiting for feedback from you all.

Bump: I have selected the LDD drivers.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikevwall said:


> So need help with how to appropriately cool the whole board down now.


If you mean the board for LDD drivers it should not need cooling they do not run hot.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Maryland Guppy said:


> If you mean the board for LDD drivers it should not need cooling they do not run hot.


 By board, I meant the fixture as a whole. The aluminum rail.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

If you are using 6 LED's now.
This could be your power supply added to your order. 7.3 amps
Even a little overhead for a fan.
Meanwell LRS-350-48, 350w, 48V @ 7.3A

I''l leave the heatsink for JeffK.
I use re-purposed aluminum components from work.
I use what comes my way from damaged equipment.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

i'll be waiting here


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

So are you wanting to make it like the guy in the original post you posted where each LED is on its own heatsink or do you want an actual nice solid long heatsink? Makersled has some nice heatsink kits that come with fans and splash shield and everything needed and you can get one at half off if you ask if they have any cosmetically imperfect ones. I was going to go that route but went with 2 of the premium rapid LED heatsinks to go in my canopy of my 75 gallon. I might have missed it, but what is your plan for the tank; canopy? or light just above the tank? Also, what is your budget because heatsinks can get fairly pricey as well if you are needing bigger ones.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So the tank has an open topped canopy and I intended to lay the aluminum flat bar across the entire thing, as one continuous piece. And I've noticed how much money some heat sinks cost, but I thought I could buy a bunch of them off eBay and attach them together?


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

I don't think the aluminum bars are going to provide near enough cooling capacity for the Vero 18s. I think you will need a decent heatsink(s) along with a fan cooling them


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> So the tank has an open topped canopy and I intended to lay the aluminum flat bar across the entire thing, as one continuous piece. And I've noticed how much money some heat sinks cost, but I thought I could buy a bunch of them off eBay and attach them together?


{PERSONAL OPINION}
Those expensive heat sinks are WAY overkill for normal planted tank densities..

that said you do have to decide whether you want to try passive or active cooling..

Personally finding something equiv. to this:
http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/...ght-Cooler-60W-LED-Heatsink-February-2015.pdf

and building "track type" lighting is much more fun than 30lbs of aluminum over a tank.. AND fans..  ..
201452320429
ran 10W cheap chips on things like this for over a year w/ no "visible" degradation..and zero failure..though one of the 660nm reds discolored on the front (blame moisture btw) 

If you decide passive, look for black anodized..

some manuf data ect...
http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/led/Aavid-Bridgelux-Cooling-Solutions-Guide.pdf
http://www.led-heatsink.com/upload/files/Bridgelux_LED_cooler_overview_v6.0-Print.pdf

for passive cooling a Vero18:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/NX301115/1061-1148-ND/4215400

$13.44 x 8

note up to 700mA BUT I'd not really sweat the 1000ma ones.. Just bolt it to a al bar..w/ thermal compound between it though..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

would a 1nch, 6 ft. aluminum bar be enough to dissipate the heat alone from the 6 led's?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> would a 1nch, 6 ft. aluminum bar be enough to dissipate the heat alone from the 6 led's?


you mean 6 30W Veros???

I'd not do it..
I can find 1" "heatsink" material for "close" to the same cost and still wouldn't recommend it.
not saying it wouldn't work.. Gut tells me no though..At least not for any length of time...

you know even when "industry" builds these things to "engineering spec" they are still tested.. 

http://www.heatsinkusa.com/


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

ok, so I found some heat sinks from another member that I am going to purchase ( he should be posting dimensions and pics ), that should be big enough for each cluster (1 cool white, 1 warm white vero 18) to dissipate the heat without the need for fans, if I'm not mistaken. 
My next question is, can I still run a single aluminum bar, attach the vero 18's beneath it with thermal adhesive, and then, using thermal paste, bolt the heat sinks to the top of the aluminum bar directly above the LED's and still have good heat transfer/dissipation? Or do I need to have the LED's mounted directly to the heat sinks?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

good is relative..
The most important interface you can control is chip to substrate. Best to be mounted to the heatsink first. 
Heatsink mounted to a bar..

Besides the LED's themselves thermal transfer is the second most important part..

How much it matters is ????. Just can't "recommend" it..Not considering the parts..
also not seeing what difference it makes either..? In other words what is your reasoning??
i take it your looking as some ease of mounting the finished unit.

If you are going to do it that way get a wide bar 3" or better than just glue heat sinks to the top..

My way though, is you get more airflow (assuming "puck" type heat sinks..) around the important part..

Maybe just show me a picture of what type of sink you are looking at..

those "industry suggested" heatsinks I showed you would be $100 plus change to do it proper.. How much are you saving??

an eek bay alternative..
252004857579


Another side note, in passive cooling the "gap" between fins should be fairly large..Many thin tightly spaced fins is not as good as less broader spaced fins.. Convection is your friend..


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

These beasts


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Looks like you were running 70W on the "big guy".. How hot did it get?


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Looks like you were running 70W on the "big guy".. How hot did it get?


I got them a few years ago from someone who had them setup for a reef and he didn't have any issues with them. They have just been staring at me since. The big ones are 16x7x3 and that thick middle mounting surface is 3/8" thick


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

OK, all I have left to order are my supplies from stevesleds.com
I still think I'm going to have one pressurized cooling fan running for safe measure, can't hurt right? Please tell me if I'm forgetting anything!

-1 mean well power source (LRS-350- 48, 350W, 48V @ 7.3A)
-1 LDD driver array- 8X drivers
-6 1000mA drivers (for led's)
-1 350mA driver (for fan)
-1 pressurizing cooling fan with power regulator
-10 ft. 20/4 gauge driver power cable
-10 ft. 22 gauge driver power wire
-10 ft. solder
-Thermal paste/ adhesive

I still do not know what wire I should be running, or if I have chosen the correct one(s).
I am using thermal adhesive to glue the led's to the heat sinks, I have no need for thermal paste, correct?
Will the fan hook up to the typhon just as my lights will?

Thank you. I'm almost there.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Pressurized fan voltage regulator is only rated up 35V...you have a 48v ps.
and yes adhesive replaces paste.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So would this power source work then?
- Meanwell LRS-350-24 350w, 24V @ 14.6A
or
-Meanwell LRS-200-24 200w, 24V @ 8.3A ( this ones a little bit cheaper )


And as far as wiring goes..?

Bump:


Mikevwall said:


> So would this power source work then?
> - Meanwell LRS-350-24 350w, 24V @ 14.6A
> or
> -Meanwell LRS-200-24 200w, 24V @ 8.3A ( this ones a little bit cheaper )
> ...


my drivers need 36v though, don't they?

Bump: So my best bet would be to just buy a 12V 1.0A power plug for the fan?


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Your LED's need over 30V .. 33 +/- volt.
Drivers handle a range of voltage. 
Think of them more as a voltage "regulator" changing the voltage to the LEDs to satisfy their amp requirements..

NOW the catch here is since the reg. chip is only rated up to 35V and your LED's are rated around 30V @ 1A you can get a 36V ps That can trim the voltage down a bit.. Say set it to output 34V.
THEN your voltage reg. for the fan AND your LED's are happy...

As a side note, not sure your LDD will control the voltage below 10v even w/ the 350mA rating.
Which means it needs to be "off the board" as a separate circuit...
So ps, regulator,LDD,fan
in parallel w/ ps/ldd/LED's
you can't (AFAICT) feed the fan w/ the regulator between the LDD and the fan..
You need to put the voltage regulator before the LDD and make sure it's max output is 10v.
Check W / Steves. I don't do fans.. PWM controlled fans usually work at a higher frequency than what you are going to get out of the LDD.. another possible "issue".


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

I talked to the team at Steve's LED's:

"hello,
So I am very new at DIY LED's (electronics), but am getting a lot of help through forum threads. I have one last order to make and its through you. So far, I have ordered six 30w Bridgelux LEDs, Typhon controller, and heat sinks already. That being said, everything I want to order from you guys is as follows: A 8 LDD driver array, 6 1000mA meanwell LDD drivers, and a meanwell power source LRS-350-48,350W,48V @ 7.3A.
I want a pressurized cooling fan, but I don't think I could hook it up to the power source that I need. Could I just buy one of those separate power plugs you guys sell for cooling fans and put it on a timer?
Lastly, I have no idea what type/ gauge of wiring I need for my set up."

" You can actually run an LDD driver (LDD-350 http://shop.stevesleds.com/Meanwell-LDD-350H-Driver-651684135.htm ) on a spare channel of your 8X LDD driver array to power that pressurizing fan. How cool is that?
Please let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
Jeff "

" I initially checked out the 350mA driver, but the pressurized fan voltage
regulator is only rated up 35V, and the power source is 48v. I don't think
that's ok, correct me if I'm wrong?
I still don't know what wire I need to get.
Thank you,
Michael Vanderwall "

"Michael,
You are correct, however the driver allows only enough voltage to be pulled until the device pulls the rated current then continuously monitors that voltage to ensure consistent output current, and this voltage is within the operating parameters of the fan. We've done this thousands of times successfully and ships like this on our production LED systems. No fan regulator is required when using the LDD.
You can use 22 ga wire http://shop.stevesleds.com/Wire_c12.htm - sorry I missed that question."



So I made my final order, and my Bridgelux LED's arrived in the mail yesterday, heat sinks and controller are on the way!


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Oh.. .yea.. 
My bad.. Brain burp..

In my own defense and cover my arse.. Didn't really contemplate running it at max mA's.. 

still hate fans.. 

They are absolutely correct. but my way would work as well..and the fan would never see over 10v..
AND they are usually voltage controlled... 

and amp needs will change over time and temp..
more I think about it, more I like my way better.. 
Though there is the question about start up current and is 350mA enough?
350mA may be run current 
A 1000mA LDD w/ the voltage controlled to 10V .. would work.. The LDD would just top out at whatever mA was available at 10v. 
And then there is the voltage differential..
So the regulator would need to be set at 13V. Ldd checked to make sure it is at 10V. (will go to max w/ no current restriction. i.e voltmeter..)

arrrggg.. hate fans..
Sorry started to ramble..

Oh well they should know their fans..


----------



## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Keep us posted, ask questions, and please post pics.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Regardless of whose right and wrong, your all making points and asking questions I would not have even thought of. I'm still going to need you guys to "hold my hand" until its finished. So now everything I need ( I think ) has been ordered and should be here within a week. 

I still don't know how to post pics really. All I have is an iPhone 5c (my cannon broke, well I dropped it in a lake off a kayak). I was told to make a flikr account, so I did, but have not figured that out either to be honest..

Every time I try to post pics that I sent to my email, planted tank says that they are too big, but was flyfshrmn98 able to put up those giant pics of my heat sinks?


----------



## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

Mikevwall said:


> Regardless of whose right and wrong, your all making points and asking questions I would not have even thought of. I'm still going to need you guys to "hold my hand" until its finished. So now everything I need ( I think ) has been ordered and should be here within a week.
> 
> I still don't know how to post pics really. All I have is an iPhone 5c (my cannon broke, well I dropped it in a lake off a kayak). I was told to make a flikr account, so I did, but have not figured that out either to be honest..
> 
> Every time I try to post pics that I sent to my email, planted tank says that they are too big, but was flyfshrmn98 able to put up those giant pics of my heat sinks?



Photobucket account, then copy the IMG link and post into here. Not sure about flickr


----------



## jmelvin (Aug 11, 2014)

"So the tank has an open topped canopy and I intended to lay the aluminum flat bar across the entire thing, as one continuous piece. And I've noticed how much money some heat sinks cost, but I thought I could buy a bunch of them off eBay and attach them together?"

I know you went a different way with the heat sink, but I used the aluminum bar with channel and active cooling on mine. Works great!









Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

what sized led's and how many?


----------



## jmelvin (Aug 11, 2014)

32 10w COB LEDs. 10 cool white, 10 warm white, 4 red 660nm, 2 orange, 2 uv blue mix, 2 cyan, 2 blue.







Four channels.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


----------



## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikevwall How is progress going? All parts make it yet?


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So once again, USPS has failed me.

My parts from Steve's LED's arrived yesterday, and everything was there.

The heat sinks and controller I ordered from flyfshrmn98 were delayed from storm Jonas. 
Today, I received what should have been my last package containing the heat sinks and controller. The package had a letter on the side that asked for my apologies. It was damaged in Memphis, TN but was re wrapped. It was not the package flyfshrmn98 sent me.
Upon opening it, I found only two heat sinks and no controller. 

After two hours worth of phone calls, I got some guy from consumer affairs that is sending me an email that I need to reply to with images/descriptions of the missing items. And, hopefully, within three weeks they will recover them and send them to me.

So now I'm am short one heat sink and a controller. I'm livid, and don't know what to do.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Would a couple of these work as a temporary fix for the controller?

Robot Check

I'm so angry.


----------



## fietsenrex (Oct 8, 2014)

nope, your leds need way more than 12v.
the ldd need 5v pwm for the dimming, the tc420 is useable for that purpose just look up the thread made by jeffkrol.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

fietsenrex said:


> nope, your leds need way more than 12v.
> the ldd need 5v pwm for the dimming,


actually you bring up a qood question.
Those manual controllers work about the same way as the TC-420
About the only difference is on is micro-controller controlled and the other is manual via pot/voltage.

Point is the same type of MOSFET arrangement is inside.
Going to the gate like the tc-420 and it should have a 5V PWM out.
THAT though, needs to be checked, as well as frequency..

One more thing about the LDDs:
100-1Khz 
2.5-6V is acceptable voltage at the PWM pin/wire
IF the stars align... 









As I said, it will depend on the frequency and voltage of the gate......


----------



## ichy (Apr 6, 2015)

jmelvin said:


> 32 10w COB LEDs. 10 cool white, 10 warm white, 4 red 660nm, 2 orange, 2 uv blue mix, 2 cyan, 2 blue.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How are you driving all those?


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> actually you bring up a qood question.
> Those manual controllers work about the same way as the TC-420
> About the only difference is on is micro-controller controlled and the other is manual via pot/voltage.
> 
> ...


Doesn't matter, I said and found those out of anger. I'm not gonna cut corners now, I'm already in this deep. Gonna have to bite the bullet and just buy another quality controller.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So, an additional heat sink and Typhon controller are now on the way. I just hope USPS can close the deal this time.
I will begin working on what I have so far tomorrow, tonight's goal is to actually learn how to use photo bucket.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

The manual dimmer was just a temp solution.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Was not even worth it though if I would have ordered the manual dimmers when I ordered the typhon


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> So do I have this right:
> On the aluminum stock I mount my LED's.
> I connect my LED's to the pwm drivers/driverboard.
> From there I connect my driver board to my controller.
> The controller hooks up to the power supply, which plugs in to the socket.












I debated about posting this one since it is really a tad "wrong" BUT all you need to do is substitute POWER SUPPLY for the gold "driver" 
Storm for the Aduino..
BUT since it is using the LDD-HW's it shows you what is really happening on those boards..


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Thank you for that. 
So I am still waiting on my last heat sink, but while I wait for that, I might as well post any questions I can think of.
So my first step is going to be glueing down my verso to the heat sink.
Like this?


or this?


I'm not sure if it would be ok to place the led's over the drilled holes.

Cool, I figured out the photo bucket!
Side note: the holes will not be needed for mounting purposes. I just want to make sure that there is going to be a big enough spread between the 6 led's to cover my 6 ft. aquarium without having to mount the lights an additional two feet over the tank. Although, I don't think that slight shift in the space between the led's would really alter the spread that much.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Well that is a bit of a problem.. Both positions don't have the more critical center part on a perfectly flat area. 
Close togeher and it looks like 1/2 of the chip is over a crater.
Spread one has a drill hole dead center.
not really the best either way:
Bridgelux LED Arrays: TIMs Application | Bridgelux, Inc. LED Lighting


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

lol, thank you pessimistic pat.
It's is not really a crater, I can easily smooth it out. On that note, I will avoid the holes


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

My Typhon controller arrived and the heat sink's craters ( still waiting on the last one ) have been smoothed and polished out.
Light rack has been built. will post pics tomorrow hopefully.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Last Heat sink should be here tomorrow along with the power cord i didn't have for the Typhon controller.
After that everything should be ready to go!


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Everything is finally here!
First I'm gonna glue down the chips. Here's a picture of my light rail. I took two 90 degree bars, and bolted them down to wood supports, allowing me to slide each individual heat sink wherever i'd like.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

I really don't want to mess this up and now I am pretty confused, or hesitant to start moving on without some assistance.
So here come the questions:

So I ordered this power source for my Typhon.


With This I can adjust the voltage and the male connectors, but I'm not sure I understand what I'm looking at.

Do I need to make the center part of the connector positive or negative to hook it up to the Typhon?


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So here are the heat sinks upside down to give you a view of their positioning. I ordered the quick connects for the LED's. 


Here is my LDD Driver board and drivers. The 350 mA is for the fan, but I do not think I'm going to wire it up unless the heat sinks get too hot when tested out.


So I am only going to have one channel for the 3 warm whites, and one channel for the 3 cool whites.
I have no idea how to wire the drivers parallel to one another on the driver board.
As for the LED's, to wire parallel, don't I attach each of the positive wires in line back to the driver board, and each of the negative wires in line back to the driver board?


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

As of now, I am a fish out of water.
Sending out an S.O.S.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> As of now, I am a fish out of water.
> Sending out an S.O.S.


Well let's start w/ the typhon...

Set ps to 12V. Find the correct connector.. Match plus and center..

Fire up the typhon to verify..

Set time..

Then we will move on..

THE only thing you don't want to do is connect the LED ps to the typhon..











THERE IS ONE more wire.. You need to tie the negative of the typhon to the neg of the LED ps..


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## PrimeObsession (Jan 8, 2015)

Your controller should have a symbol on the unit itself or in the documentation. The symbols will look like the one you posted in the last picture and indicate the tip direction. You need to match the input voltage to whatever is required as well- amps don't matter as much, just make sure they exceed what is required by the controller.



Mikevwall said:


> I really don't want to mess this up and now I am pretty confused, or hesitant to start moving on without some assistance.
> So here come the questions:
> 
> So I ordered this power source for my Typhon.
> ...


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

That controller is either an old pre-production version or a clone of a Typhon..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

o2 Surplus clone


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Typhon is fired up.


Bump: Which would be the plus from the Typhon PWM?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

1,2,3,4 are all PWM plus.. Gnd is "common" for all 4 channels (4 right terminals in the above picture) ..or should be..
SO
You will only have to run one wire from GND to negative on the LED power supply.. NOT the Typhon PS...

You don't have the ps hooked up yet nor an LED

COMMON practice is to NOT hook up the LED (OUTPUT side of the driver board) while the driver is "energised".. i.e the LED ps is "ON"

Whole thing is only slightly different than this:










WHERE you tie the power supply and Typhon PWM ground together doesn't really matter..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Ok, I Have everything wired except for the meanwell power source to a plug, and the LED's to the driver board.
Did not buy enough wire, I don't know what I was thinking.
Will post pics tomorrow of what I have wired if you all could verify it is done correctly.
Thank you guys so much! Should be finished tomorrow!


Ordered more wire and wire sleeve offline from stevesleds so its going to be yet another few days.


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So this is what it looks like:

So from my Typhon controller, I have 2 positive wires from channels 1 and 2 connecting to channels 1-6 on the PWM inputs from the driver board. The Typhon has 2 ground wires, One wire connecting to my driver board, and one connecting to my meanwell power supply (should that be there?).
I also have a negative and a positive going from the meanwell power source to the driver board.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Wire from the pwm ground to the driver board is good enough. You can remove the wire going from the Typhon to the power supply.

As a test if you have any cheap star LED's you can wire one (or a small string) into the out put side of the driver board . Note though, that at 1000mA they usually heat up pretty fast if not on a heat sink..

NOT exactly seeing what you all have there but in simple terms:
PWM + to PWM plus on driver board
PWM minus(ground) to either PWM ground (which I believe you don't have on the driver board) or any common ground (input ground i.e negative)

Power supply plus and minus to input plus and minus..
The 2 connectors on the driver board at the edges "should" be just 2 in parallel so shouldn't make much difference which you use..

anyways another diagram:










Getting over the psychological hurdle of bridging 2 power supplies via a ground is the hardest part.. 
you have to tie the "thing" that powers the PWM to the "thing" that powers the LDD's..


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Ok, so I removed the ground wire from the meanwell power source to the Typhon controller.
This is how I have the Ground wire ran from the controller to the input minus on the right side of the driver board. The other input plus/minus on the left side is wired to the meanwell power supply.


And I don't have an other led's laying around to test it out with unfortunately.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

AFAICT you are good to go...


you could use a VOM to test the output. Just be aware the LDD will ramp up voltage to try to reach 1000mA, which it can't do w/ a VOM so output voltage will equal ps voltage minus a few volts..

your LED will not..


----------



## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Let there be light, Yet???

I also commissioned a new light tonight.
I will start a new DIY thread soon.
Been capturing pics along the way.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Let there be light, Yet???
> 
> I also commissioned a new light tonight.
> I will start a new DIY thread soon.
> Been capturing pics along the way.


No Light until Thursday (hopefully).
I completely spoofed my last order and didn't order enough wiring, and forgot wire sheathing as well. New order was placed on Friday with priority shipping.


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

Mikevwall said:


> No Light until Thursday (hopefully).
> I completely spoofed my last order and didn't order enough wiring, and forgot wire sheathing as well. New order was placed on Friday with priority shipping.


Doesn't your local hardware store or radio shack carry wire so you can finish tomorrow


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Home Depot (speaker wire?)

Make use of old computer cables if they are 24AWG or larger.
Old printer and serial cable collection comes in handy.
I do not run LED's over 1 amp though.
For power supply leads 18AWG at a minimum.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Is my 22 gauge wire even big enough for my power supply? Steve's LED's said it was, but I don't wanna fry or start a fire.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Depends on length..Rate the wire to carry 8A..48V
you can use 22ga if the wire run is less than 1M (Now here is the gotcha part, this is "usually" sum of both directions..so like 1 1/2 feet from ps to board.

DC Cable Sizing Tool - Wire Size Calculator - MM2 & AWG - solar-wind.co.uk

Personally from power supply to board just use 18ga 2 conductor "bell" wire.. available at any hardware store..

note that most calculators and charts are extremely conservative..


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

So I have 6 total bridge lux LEDs.
3 cool whites bridged to one channel.
3 warm whites bridged to 2nd channel.

I didn't order enough wire from steves LEDs the first time. So I ordered more but went to Home Depot to buy some for the time being. After talking to one of the electric pros, he sent me home with some 20 gauge bell wire. I just realized after wiring everything that it's rated for 30 volts and my power is 48.

When I powered up everything, the 3rd set of LEDs (1 cool white 1 warm white ) Didn't light up at all. The other 4 do, but if I set them both to 100% they all turn off. I can run 1 channel ( so 2 cool or 2 warm ) at 100% and the other off. If I raise the other channels power that's at 0%, the other channel that's at 100% decreases.

What's going on!?
Poor soldering points?
Loose connection?
Wrong wire?
Are three veto 18s too much for a single channel on the typhon?

Just when I thought I had it all figured out.
S.O.S.


----------



## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

poor soldering point maybe, loose connection maybe, something overheating, or too high of resistance somewhere? Could be the 30V wire. If only 2 didn't work, could be a bad LDD driver? Post some pictures of everything wired up. Maybe switch some of the LDD drivers around and see if any are dead. I don't think it has anything to do with the typhon, all it does is send PWM signals to your LDDs for dimming. Also could be a loosely connected LED that gets too hot


----------



## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

If I remember correctly each vero goes to it's own driver.
Pick a driver that works to 100% and test all led's.
Once this is confirmed try swapping LDD drivers to validate they will all operate a lamp. If all drivers and led's are good try different pwm channels next in the same fashion validate they are all working.
Just have to try a method of deduction here.
Vero's and LDD's bad from the start are rare.
Typhon channels and your wiring should be then checked.

Went through this today and found a bad 3 watt warm white led.
Dimming and blinking with crazy shiitake going on.

Make sure those little board terminals are grabbing the wire and not the insulation.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Are three veto 18s too much for a single channel on the typhon?


No, not normally The LDD dim circuit runs at like 5mV. The "Typhon" has 20-30mV per channel available I believe..
Well ignore the numbers..no.. 


Mikevwall said:


> Just when I thought I had it all figured out.
> S.O.S.


First things first, the AC switch is set correctly right?
Second if you have a VOM tell me what is the voltage out AT the ps..

Third how did you wire the Vero's.. You need to be careful that 
, if soldered, you aren't bridge to the heat sink. Funny things happen then..

43.2- 52.8 is the voltage adj range..
Max current is 7.3A..


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Ok. So I moved around the drivers and they all worked.
It was the last LEDs ( number 5 & 6 ) that would not even turn on.
all drivers work. All LED chips work.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Ok. So I moved around the drivers and they all worked.
> It was the last LEDs ( number 5 & 6 ) that would not even turn on.
> all drivers work. All LED chips work.


So,basically, if you pull drivers 5,6 all the 4 remaining LEd's dim ect fine??


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

No they don't all dim fine. Out of the four I can get to light up, only one channel can be on at any given time. If I try to turn on both channels, channel one will boot up to 100%, as channel two begins to fire up, at around 50%, channel one starts to dim. By the time, channel two reads at 100%, they are both completely off.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

You need to check the voltage at the power supply..

Ignore what I just erased.. pull down resistors on the board may squelch the drivers..


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Ok. I'll be getting a vom tomorrow it looks like.

Bump: What's the red switch on the side of the mean well power source?


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Ok. I'll be getting a vom tomorrow it looks like.
> 
> Bump: What's the red switch on the side of the mean well power source?


Switches from 115ac to 230ac..like I mentioned earlier..

http://www.meanwell.com/search/LRS-350/LRS-350-spec.pdf


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

does this dial ever get touched?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> 43.2- 52.8 is the voltage adj range..


That is what that pot is for....
you shouldn't really be able to take the voltage out of the 33V 's needed for the parallel Veros..

did you verify the red switch was set for the correct line voltage?
If set for 230v you could be seeing a reduced voltage at the output..


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Red switch is not set to 230v.
So is the next step is to get my hands on a voltmeter?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Red switch is not set to 230v.
> So is the next step is to get my hands on a voltmeter?


Yes but to be honest, I can't really picture what could be wrong..
There are some other things to check w/ a VOM though
using multichips like the Veros is a bit of a challenge..

would be nice to know how the driver board is traced though..Not sure where that one came from either..

I'm assuming some pull down resistors on that board which makes it harder to "fire" the LEd's w/out a PWM signal..

couple of things to try is use 1,3 channel instead of 1,2.
Change ground from the seperate one to the one w/ the power supply on the driver board..

You also haven't said how you wired the Veros yet? soldered or using the plug?
ON seconf thought.. some built a test mode b4 the real mode..

did you see if you can cycle a menu and see if it is indeed in test? Long shot.. but I have little else here.. 

Second "problem" is you see those little resistors on the driver board? Those are so if your Typhon dies the lights will "default" to off..Great in theory but in situations like this they kind of suck..
See if you remove them and remove the typhon all your LEDs should light..so you can test the driver/ps/led by itself.
With them you can't, they won't light...typhon or not..
Personally I'd build a board w/ a jumper so as to be able to choose this "feature" or not.


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

The driver board came from O2 Surplus, not sure if that helps.
I will try switching the channels.
I used the plugs for the veros, and soldered the wires together.


----------



## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

I would recheck all your soldering joints and electrical contact points for the wires. How did you secure the Veros to the heatsink, thermal adhesive?


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Yea thermal adhesive. Going to get the volt ohm meter now. I don't know how to use it or where to check


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Yea thermal adhesive. Going to get the volt ohm meter now. I don't know how to use it or where to check


Set meter to a DC voltage range that includes "50V".
Test across ps + and - to start.

Test voltage across plus in on one side minus in on the other.. Should be ps voltage.48 v plus/minus

Set one channel at 100% test voltage across LED "out" . Should be 30-ish volts..
Stick the 350mA in one of the LED sockets..
NOTe: use the same LED chip you tested at 100%.
Test the V out to led of that one at 100% as well
more later

As a "can do now" test, just disconnect 2 of the 3 of each Typhon LED pwm outputs at the plus side. So one chip per channel..
What does it do now?


----------



## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Ps at 48v


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikevwall said:


> Ps at 48v


On the driver board, if you put the probes on the +/- on the right side w/ the one black wire.. do you have 48v there too?


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Everything is shot. Thanks for the help everyone. I messed up. I will be tearing down my tank tomorrow.


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## ichy (Apr 6, 2015)

What??


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikevwall said:


> Everything is shot. Thanks for the help everyone. I messed up. I will be tearing my my tank tomorrow.


How bad?


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Just kidding!



Got them all to work.


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## ichy (Apr 6, 2015)

ohhhh that was not right!


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

Some serious pearling going on in there. 
Couldn't have done this without the members of this forum. Everybody was very friendly and very insightful.
Will give updates at a later time (prolly tomorrow night).


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikevwall said:


> I will be tearing down my tank tomorrow.


Tear down sounded funny, first thought was why not use the old light.



Mikevwall said:


> Just kidding! Got them all to work.


Treating us wrong here! :laugh2:

Bump:


Mikevwall said:


> Will give updates at a later time (prolly tomorrow night).


After all that you owe us some explanation with more pics too!

I figured everything fell in the tank!


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## Mikevwall (Jul 27, 2015)

ok, follow-up post.

So, with the help of flyfshrmn98 and some manuals, I was able to determine that the issue was the controller needed to be grounded directly to the power source and that both power inputs on the driver board needed to be connected to the power source. Re soldered everything for good measure.
Hers are some pics. I still need to make a cover for the wiring. Gonna cut out a piece of glass to fit over top.

So I ran them for 8 hours yesterday at 100%.
The larger of the three heat sinks was hardly warm to the touch.
The other two got warmer, but not to an uncomfortable level, even when firmly grasped and fingers dug between fins towards the core. My temp gun's batteries are dead, but those temps don't sound bad, right?

And some pics:









Awesome harvested foreground I found right here..


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