# DIY PAR38 LED Track Light



## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

*Th*


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

:fish::fish::fish::fish::fish:


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Wish you had a par meter, I had thought about going this route with my 150 but not sure I could get the light I need to the bottom of the tank.

Craig


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

DogFish said:


> I'm curious about the Par reading myself. I wonder if I could rent one somehow?


the thing is i can get lux meters... but not par meters... 

:O 

no one i know has a par meter.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

[quo


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

You can use Lux meters for a reasonably accurate PAR reading: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/154433-par-meter-recommendations-2.html#post1603516 Of course this has to be used out in the air, not underwater, but it would tell you about how much PAR you will get in water too (about 10-20% more than in air).


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Hop


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

Be aware that a PAR meter will only read light wavelengths between 400 - 700 nm (around that). A lux meter will vary drastically depending on what photo resistor/diode it uses.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

DogFish said:


> Hoppy, thanks for the link.
> 
> It would be interesting to know for discussion & help others. For me it still comes down to how my plants will grow. Between the dimmer & the ability to raise the lights I should be able to dial it it fairly easy.
> 
> I got my minimalist look in a way that doesn't look like Aquarium lighting.


You certainly did that! I like that look, but I would probably use different "shades", most likely round ones. This is one more very nice way to light a tank using off the shelf hardware.



mistergreen said:


> Be aware that a PAR meter will only read light wavelengths between 400 - 700 nm (around that). A lux meter will vary drastically depending on what photo resistor/diode it uses.


If we wanted to use a lux meter for a variety of different types of lighting, or for some array of LEDs with a mix of reds, blues, greens, etc. it would likely not be accurate enough. But, if we stick to cool white, neutral white, etc. LEDs, or 6500-10,000K fluorescent lights, or similar color temperature MH lights, it should do well enough for our purposes. We don't need extreme accuracy, and we don't even get that with a PAR meter. The Quantum meters aren't perfectly accurate for low light either. They read in whole digits only, so a reading of 10 micromols is only good to about +/- 1 micromol, or 10%, and errors in technique add still more inaccuracy.

I haven't tried using a lux meter yet, but that's something I hope to do later.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

mistergreen said:


> Be aware that a PAR meter will only read light wavelengths between 400 - 700 nm (around that). A lux meter will vary drastically depending on what photo resistor/diode it uses.


yup... which is why my friend said no go for the application i want. 
I would get the other spectrum which arent needed inside the lux, and wouldnt represent anything.. minus how well the camera would take its picture at what flash setting



Hoppy said:


> I haven't tried using a lux meter yet, but that's something I hope to do later.


Ohhhh if u figure out a way hoppy let me know..
My friend whose a professional photographer said he would totally loan me his lux meter. But as i said, he said it was pointless for what i wanted.
He knows what a par meter is, and said get a cheap par meter.

Problem tho, a Par meter costs 200 dollars!!! :eek5:
I still want my dual stage regulator b4 a Par meter.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

Naekuh said:


> Problem tho, a Par meter costs 200 dollars!!! :eek5:


More like $300+


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## aretreesfree (Jun 19, 2011)

interested in seeing what this would look like set up with water. i've wondered if this is a good route, but for a long tank like a 55g would this not be ideal? what about a 40B? would one bulb be sufficient for a 40B low tech?


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

[quo


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

[quo


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## Wicket_lfe (Aug 21, 2008)

This is something i'm def interested in. Could you get some more up close pics of each part? I'm not quite sure what to look for/buy.

thanks!


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

[quo


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## Wicket_lfe (Aug 21, 2008)

LOL, thanks. I've done a lot of LED lighting and solder work, just trying to avoid building my own track and soldering multiple LEDs. Plus my dad is an EE and is always confirming/critizing the stuff I build. LOL.

Thanks again!


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Tha


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## Larry Grenier (Apr 19, 2005)

> I found a seller at that "e" place. $65 ea.


May I ask; who is _that "e" place_?


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Larry Grenier said:


> May I ask; who is _that "e" place_?


I think that is the place commonly known as FCBZ (Substract one letter from each to get the secret name)


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## freph (Apr 4, 2011)

Hoppy said:


> I think that is the place commonly known as FCBZ (Substract one letter from each to get the secret name)


I saw this and was like ".........*stare at screen for 30 seconds*......what....?" and then it clicked. Thanks for frying my brain, Hoppy. 

On topic, this is a really nice setup. Seems like this would be perfect for a nano tank the way the light is focused. Great job!


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

[quo


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Thi


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Just curious what kind of light spread you are getting with these guys.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

[quo


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## WibblyPig (May 10, 2007)

Sorry to jump in your thread but you don't have to hard wire these in. You can buy a 4' piece of track and a plug in connector ( http://www.lowes.com/pd_120827-3826...37087_?page=3&Ns=p_product_price|0&facetInfo= ) for under 20 bucks. No need to cut in ceiling box, etc. (especially if you're electrical skills are questionable).


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Tru


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Have you figured out how to diffuse those hot spots directly under the lamps to even out plant growth?


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Ste


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## moonshinetheslacker (Sep 13, 2010)

Pretty sweet light setup. I really like it. About those shades though... you mention that finding ones you like, that have plenty of airflow are few and fare between, and expensive. But you also mention "modern looking" shades. Have you considered not using a shade at all? I personally think that it would look plenty modern. I wouldn't think that there would be too much light spilling into the room, as concentrated as that beam is. 

If there is too much light spilling into the room if you remove the light shades, maybe you could manufacture something out of aluminum flashing? It's what I used on my 10 and 20 watt LED floods, to keep the light from bouncing against the glass, causing algae issues. Bonus is that aluminum flashing is plenty cheap.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

I'm s


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

While I was in the hospital infusion room with my wife, I noticed how well those 1x1 chromed egg crates were able to keep all the light shining down and not to the sides. I'm thinking I'll pick up some panels and experiment with T5s and LEDs to see if that could be a nice compact elegant solution. I dislike those huge aquarium canopies or anything resembling them over my tanks.

Those stainless steel salad bowls can be painted any color to help blend in better. Your shades look fine. Most people here expect a more standard aquarium look to the lighting fixtures and yours look different from anything we usually see posted on the forums. As long as they look good in the room and do the job, it's all good.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Ste


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## wkndracer (Mar 14, 2009)

pictures from early on have dropped the link and aren't posting

any updates on the lighting and growth results?


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

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## Dgilpin22 (Mar 19, 2016)

I know the post is old. 

Could I see the pictures? The pics aren't loading anymore. I'm looking to use the track light system to mount them and an idea would help.


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