# New to Plant World with Problems - shocking



## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

As stated, I started into the plant world and just got hit with algae badly. I am sure I am missing major fertilizers or something as well. Things were growing and looking great then the past week or two, I noticed hair like growth on my plants. I was told it appears to be BBA but they were unsure.

Setup - 20g tall with glass hood, painted black back
Age - 3 months
Filter - aquaclear 70 HOB with purigen pack, filter pad, and ceramics
Light - Current Satellite LED+ on max light color
Substrate - Ecco Complete

Readings of water last night:
Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 40

live stock - 5 albino cories, 1 dwarf gourami, 2 glowfish tetras, 3 BN plecos growing out (2" for my 55g cichlid)

Plants - crypt wendtii (i think), 2 anubias, 2 types of hygro, and a Lobelia Cardinalis

Routine - 30-50% wc weekly, flourish per instruction 

Problem - Things were growing very well and hygro moving quickly as well as the lobelia. It all kind of stopped and suddenly everything got very hairy like with black/gray hairs even on my driftwood. The driftwood is a manzanitia<?> branch and often has long hairs growing off of it as well.

I am thinking I do not have some kind of fertilizer going on and causing a slow growth now and this hairy algae. 
- How do I combat this and how do I kill this algae?
- What do I need to be doing for the plants I currently have?
- Hydrogen peroxide bomb? (scared of this)
- EI Fertilizers? (was told about this and did some research. Currently not much in the way of ferts delivered other than flourish)

I work roughly 70 hours a week as a teacher and a 911 dispatcher for the county.... so I cant babysit this and fuss ridiculously amount of time. Your expertise could really help me... aquariums are one of the few things that brings joy to me!


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## natebuchholz (Sep 28, 2013)

By the sounds of it you have already identified your problem. You need to be dosing macro and micro nutrients for you plants to be able to outcompete the algae. 

Even though you are limited on time, you can look into an EI dosing schedule. The only commitment is 5min/day.


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## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

Do I need to kill the algae first or will it die off slowly when I start ferts? I am a little confused on this. I just know enough of this information to make generalized statements.


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## natebuchholz (Sep 28, 2013)

bwhupp said:


> Do I need to kill the algae first or will it die off slowly when I start ferts? I am a little confused on this. I just know enough of this information to make generalized statements.


Dosing properly will stop the spread but, you will need to remove as much of the algae as possible manually.


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## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

Is it recommended to do the hydrogen peroxide kill then the next day to start ferts? Not sure how i can get all this algae hairs off of the crypts and hygros


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## natebuchholz (Sep 28, 2013)

I don't like to do H2O2; I find it to be to abrasive but, thats a personal choice. You will have to trim the leaves that are covered with algae to remove them.


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## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

Looks like I have to remove a bunch of plants then if that is the case? Some crypts are pretty infected. I ask because I am pretty ignorant to this and I appologize.


For EI... I read:
10 – 20 Gallon tank

1/8 tsp KN03 3x a week
1/32 tsp KH2P04 3x a week
1/32 tsp Tenso cocktail or CSM+B 3x a week

1/2 tsp MgSO4x7H2O 3x a week
weekly 50% water change


This is what I would need to do with my setup? Seems like a lot, but what do I know!


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## jayq16 (Jul 10, 2008)

Have you tried reducing your light schedule and intensity? Are you using CO2?


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## goodbytes (Aug 18, 2014)

jayq16 said:


> Have you tried reducing your light schedule and intensity?


+1
Reducing your photoperiod by an hour may arrest further algae growth.

Here is the PAR information for your light.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=379417

And here is an explanation of PAR just in case you haven't run across it yet.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368

20 Tall tanks are 16" high and with a couple inches of substrate you might be getting just a shade too much PAR at around 14". You could consider raising the light a few inches by suspending it from the wall using decorative shelving brackets. 

Another thing you could look into is using an overdose of Excel to kill off the algae. I don't really understand this or how it works but it is another tool in the toolbox that people often seem to use in situations like this.

Edit: Are you sure that's a 20 High? I could be wrong but it looks too tall. It looks more like a 30 gallon extra high.


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

I agree the picture makes it look taller than a 20H.

Have you considered adding a couple of amano shrimp? Not the easiest to find, but they are available. Voracious algae eaters with a light bioload footprint. I don't think your tetras will bother them at all.


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## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

Dimensions of the tank....

20 Gallon Aquarium: 20″ x 10″ x 24″ (Extra High)

From light to substrate is 20.5"

I figured my light I could only grow low light stuff given it's depth which is why I have tried to stick to slow growing and low light stuff like crypts and anubias. Am I wrong in this? I am pretty ignorant and the internet stuff is either very complex or misleading. So I am trying to learn as I go.


I read the threads of my light.... so given the PAR level at 20".. estimated maybe 25 which is good for low light plants. Am I not correct in this?


EDIT: The tank is in front of a window but gets very minimal light due to the painted black background and the house beside mine. No direct sunlight comes in that window. I have now changed my light time to go from 3pm-830pm. It was 930am-8pm. Perhaps with the lessening of the light and I ordered EI ferts, it will help to stop the algae growth and bring my plants back to life? All I can do is try!

Will the algae die itself or must i cut back all the plants/h202/excel dose to kill? Pretty saddened to think of this!


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## leemacnyc (Dec 28, 2005)

Hi hupp welcome aboard!

Here's some more detailed PAR info on your light: (http://www.guitarfish.org/2013/05/30/satellite-freshwater-led-review-part-2-par-readings).

I assume your using the "Full Spectrum" setting. May want to try one of the lower PAR settings; i would test out for a week or two to make a determination. If you're going low-tech tank, you may just need fine-tune the light and might not need to add ferts. Just keep up w/ regular water changes. My $.02.

I've got 2 of the Current Planted LED+'s on my 10g, hi-tech, also currently trying to "dial-in" just the right amount of light need. LOVE these lights!

Don't be scared of H202, i just used for the first time recently. Put it in a small spray bottle and unplug your HOB and just do a few spots to gauge effectiveness.

Cheers & good luck!


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## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

reducing the photo period by an hour isn't going to help much imo. I would suggest raising your light 2-3" and begin dosing ferts.

I would not do the 3x a week thing as that is for high tech planted tanks with co2 and high light. I would suggest a once a week type of thing using those quantities.

Reducing the amount of par by raising the light with be the quick and most effective way to reduce plant uptake and allow for things to balance out quicker. If plant demand is high and there is nothing for them, algae will soon take over. your starting to see this effect in your tank.


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## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

philipraposo1982 said:


> reducing the photo period by an hour isn't going to help much imo. I would suggest raising your light 2-3" and begin dosing ferts.
> 
> I would not do the 3x a week thing as that is for high tech planted tanks with co2 and high light. I would suggest a once a week type of thing using those quantities.
> 
> Reducing the amount of par by raising the light with be the quick and most effective way to reduce plant uptake and allow for things to balance out quicker. If plant demand is high and there is nothing for them, algae will soon take over. your starting to see this effect in your tank.


Thanks! I ordered the ferts and will start that goodness when they arrive. Lowered light hours and with ferts, I hope to balance this out again.


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## dpod (Sep 16, 2014)

As far as the algae is concerned, I recommend using the 1-2 punch method to clear it out. I've used it a couple of times with great success. Basically, you add a dose of H2O2 and get as much circulation going in the tank as possible. After 15 minutes, you do a >50% water change and add a loading dose of Excel. Within a few days, the algae will turn pink and fall off, dead.

More info here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=203684&highlight=one+two+punch


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## jayq16 (Jul 10, 2008)

I've had success with a 4 day blackout to wipe out the algae, then reducing lighting after the blackout. Slowly increasing lighting until i noticed algae starting and backing off. This got my lighting schedule accurate to the current plants needs.

No ferts during the blackout and tank must be completely wrapped with something dark, like a dark towel or blanket. No ambient light should enter either. 

However, this was on a High Techish tank, have not tried with low tech.


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## bwhupp (Apr 1, 2015)

Update: I have no went with an h202 the tank method. I added 7tbls into my tank of h202 to nuke it. Removed all my aquatic fish and filter and replaced with my 600gph powerhead. I plan on letting the h202 blow around for an hour or so then do a 75% water change. I will let it simmer for several hours before returning my filter and fish back to the tank. 

My EI fertilizers came in the mail today. When should I begin doing my ferts?


Questions:
I am confused by the water changes if at all.... 

I do not want to add CO2 and all that expense...

I am a bit confused with the schedule and dosage of EI fertilzers...

If anyone can fill in my blanks, I would be very much appreciative. Thanks guys.


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