# green algae bloom



## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

so, reef guy here new to planted tanks. I have green algae bloom.

tank-37tall
filter-hydor canister with chemipure
lights-had two fluval 24" plant LED lights on.(everything was fine for months until I turned up light period to 12hrs)


I removed one light unit and backed off photpd to 7 hours. is this tank too tall with to much open water? should I just blackout and waterchange after 3 days? here is a pic before bloom, I also removed all the tetras. 
Mike


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

I believe you haven't enough plants to use up all the nutrients. After it returns to clear you can just put the lights back on the first
schedule where it didn't get the bloom. The algae is always there but in such small amount that you can't see it. The extra length of 
light gives the algae more growing time as well as it does to the plants. Then/w that fairly conservative amount of plants, the algae
took over as it has enough nutrients but not enough light on the "before" schedule.
I think the worst is yet to come if you could still see in there to catch the Tetra's. A 50% water change will likely appear not to help
as the algae will bounce right back in hrs but A. don't feed the fish, B. go to 5 hrs light and in a few days it will die. The water
change is not so much to be rid of the algae as it's very concentrated and there will be enough of it left to seed a new growth.
But the water change is really to rid some of the nutrients from the water.
Your plants are fine BTW. Those tanks/w fertilizers being used "need" what "they" call "heavily planted" to use up all those ferts.
You use flake fish food(mostly) and it contains some of the nutrients the plants (and/or algae) use. TRY to use it a bit more
sparingly, like stop putting it in when the first piece hits the bottom. If there are multiple pieces hitting the bottom you likely
are feeding a bit much. "Too" tall really just means less light gets down to the plants and the red on the red plants says enough.
Plants which have colors other than green need more light to get that red. They usually will grow, but only in green if not
enough light is there. My knowledge in that aria to know exactly which ones just grow green and which will still get red isn't
good enough to let you know for sure on that one however.

P.S. Try a few pieces of Rotala Macranda in either back corner. It's a "stemmed" plant and they get most of their nutrients
from the water column so it will help keep the bloom away. It's one of the "reds" but you might not have quite enough light
to get it red, but may get pink shades on the upper leaves. Rotala indica does basicly the same but only gets the pink at
best. Both supposedly only get about 14" high so it might look rather nice back there. Just thinking out loud.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

problem is is that I already tried water changes...I don't fed flake...I cut the light back a week ago....still have bloom. I have rotalla indica and red tmple, they both are groing nice and red....I think I need a blackout. also, I don't use ferts....


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

todays condition...


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

Whats your tap water testing? I'd do a light blackout, and a 50% water change each day for a week, but out of curiosity why are you using chemipure, and whats inside your filter for media, when did you last clean it/replace media, and are you dosing your tank with anything? 

Is there any changes added or removed from/to the tank in the last couple weeks?


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

chemipure was to remove nutrients. I use R.O. canister filter has no fine sponge or floss, only the noodles, the course sponges, and the chemipure...but mind you it was like this for six months just fine. filter was recently cleaned, this problem is def do to way too much light, just a matter of fixing it now. please read entire thread. *filter was leaned AFTER the bloom.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

I'm always puzzled at people using RO for planted fish tanks. I get the shrimp reasons, and i get the saltwater tank reasons as i have those to, but why for your tank? Is your tap water really that bad? 

I did read the entire thread before btw  But usually water volume algae is a combination of things, not just lights, and usually it can be fixed without changing the lights. Water volume algae is more phosphate related, and light contributes, its almost always the excess of nutrients that allow it to become blooms. Correcting the nutrients issue can correct it without the light having to be changed or used less, but i do see a lot of the time people confuse cycle blooms with water volume algae.

Chemipure is usually just a short term bandaid, and covers up the issue(s). Personally i'd ditch it, and get straight to correcting the problem, plus it'll save you from buying anymore of it.


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## edstewart5 (Sep 24, 2013)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> I'm always puzzled at people using RO for planted fish tanks. I get the shrimp reasons, and i get the saltwater tank reasons as i have those to, but why for your tank? Is your tap water really that bad?


I just recently switched to RO water for my planted tank. And yes, my tap is that bad. It has a GH of 0 but a KH of 19. The pH is 8.4-8.6 straight from the tap. And I want to have the ability for it to be consistent and for my rams to thrive, which means lower pH. Also, from others on this forum and my roommates, for some reason my tap causes staghorn. And it's nasty.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> I'm always puzzled at people using RO for planted fish tanks. I get the shrimp reasons, and i get the saltwater tank reasons as i have those to, but why for your tank? Is your tap water really that bad?
> 
> I did read the entire thread before btw  But usually water volume algae is a combination of things, not just lights, and usually it can be fixed without changing the lights. Water volume algae is more phosphate related, and light contributes, its almost always the excess of nutrients that allow it to become blooms. Correcting the nutrients issue can correct it without the light having to be changed or used less, but i do see a lot of the time people confuse cycle blooms with water volume algae.
> 
> Chemipure is usually just a short term bandaid, and covers up the issue(s). Personally i'd ditch it, and get straight to correcting the problem, plus it'll save you from buying anymore of it.


chemipure is not a short term solution, it is the industry standard carbon media of choice across the board for general purpose and phosphate removal. my phosphates only test high when I use tap water. this is a lighting issue. this tank is in my tropical fish store...I probly had too many fish and too much lihght. unless you are familiar with the new Fluval units I am using you may not understand...but that was like th equivilant of 300 watts of metal halide on this tank 12 hours a day plus ambient light. too much. and yes, nutrients like phosphate def played a role...the algae must consume something to bloom.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

Not really, it's kind of frowned upon especially on reefer forums, as it's only temporary helping fix a problem thats usually bound to happen again so in a way it's a band aid to help extend time per say, and it's max effectiveness is maybe 6 days. It's an expense that can be removed. 

With a regular water change schedule, water volume algae shouldn't happen with just light. Just pointing out to you don't get too wrapped up on it being the only issue. Thats all i'm saying. Yes i'm familiar with the newer fluval LED lights


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

Lol. My shop has 16 saltwater tanks. Ive been doing this for 30 years, its hrdly frowned upon...chemipur defently is more of a temporary fix tool i agree....but is superior to standard carbon which is done in 6 days yes....but chemipur has more than carbon in it...one unit is good for 4-6month for phos/silicate removal. And i already agreed that nutrients play a role here. I blacked out the tank for two days now and it is chrystal clear and all perametets test zero. Time fore waterchange and ease the lighting back.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

The bottle say's 4-6 months, in reality it dosnt. I dont know a single reefer who actually still uses the stuff ever not have to replace it after 1-2 months. Guess it didn't help with the phosphates this time <shrugs>. 

Granular Ferric Oxide, basically a phosphate sponge mixed with quality carbon. Just keep up with the water changes, and you can run those lights as long as you want.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

dude, you don't know everything. calm down. people use it all the time for quick fixes. when I serviced ATM's tanks in LA(tanked) we used it all the time. I don't really want to discuss chemipur anymore. the tank is fixed now, thx for your input. but lets say the issue comes back, and let me make this clear...I am a 30 vet of the tropical fish industry so I don't need lessons on the basics, in fact I only posted this thinking it would be fun to talk basics because sometimes its fun to go back to the drawing board, there is always something one can learn, and ive actually never done a planted tank in all this time lol! mostly an sps guy. im sure it will return because I know damn well there is a crapload of detritus in my gravel, which when I turned up the photoperiod fed this algae bloom. Although I have killed the algae with a blackout, and removed dead cells with a water change...I know the gravel still has excess nutrients....would you really think simply doing water changes weekly is going to keep this issue gone?? im not going to do daily changes forever, trying to run a shop here...don't you suppose I need to maybe gravel vac and replant and then not overload with fish/nutrients this time?? Lets hear some input minus the condescension!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

CrypticLifeStyle said:


> The bottle say's 4-6 months, in reality it dosnt. I dont know a single reefer who actually still uses the stuff ever not have to replace it after 1-2 months. Guess it didn't help with the phosphates this time <shrugs>.
> 
> Granular Ferric Oxide, basically a phosphate sponge mixed with quality carbon. Just keep up with the water changes, and you can run those lights as long as you want.


This is really funny. Why ? Glad you asked...
First and most important: Algae can NOT grow without nutrients. Just like any other plant can't.
Example in an extreme: take a 75 G tank and put 8 of those Fluval lights from front to back along it so there's 300 PAR in there
and all at 6700K.
Then fill with pure distilled water (R/O)...nothing will grow in it even if the lights are on 24/7.

Second: and this is killer...WE, as in people who like for their plants to get full nutrients as much as possible...PUT IN Phosphate
as an ingredient of the Micro/Macro ferts pack just so that plants such as Wisteria which are Phosphate hogs can have enough of it.
And now someone says "you need to remove all those Phosphates"...LOL...LOL...
I'm rolling all over the floor here because of the diametrically opposed view points(as it appears) on the same subject.

Guys...this is supposed to be FUN, a HOBBY...do you remember that ?

BTW: seems to me that putting in one Wisteria plant at $3.99 will for the life of the tank, keep the Phosphates used up
better/more completely than anything else ever would...but that's just my opinion...LOL..........


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

hmmm, interesting. I was thinking I need a higher consuming plant in there to help, I guess the plant gods weren't kidding when the said plant HEAVILY!!! I'm still wondering if I screwed up with this tall ass tank, just had it sitting around...

Nice input on the lights, I am liking these so far and was not wanting to only use one. I think I may gravel vac and replant as im sure the gravel is a mudpile of fish crap and detritus...any thoughts? a water change and adding plants would be easy being that this is in my shop and my plant selling tank is full of stuff to pick from for free!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

A tall tank or a short tank is only "in the eye of the beholder" as far as usefulness etc.IMO. It can present issues in getting it 
filled/w plants at the upper levels thereof. I entered 24" in plant size on here to get these but if you want to you can set any height
that you want by clicking on "Find your plant" at the right and then put whatever you want into it. Not a problem.
Once again IMO...those heavily planted tanks...need to be. When you consider that the EI fert chart is to get mega ferts into
the water column, and then balance it out by flushing the system every week in order to get plant growth at it's maxx.
Then you'd better have a "heavily planted tank". I'll give you a link to a balanced tank which gives equal priority to both the
hardscape(log/rocks) as it does to plants and you can see how good it looks.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pGallery.php?do=view&rdo=homepage&id=6361&cat=0&order=None&page=4
Actually can't find the one I really wanted but this is a good example of balanced. Jungle Vals would work for your tank as they get tall.
But they will take over if left to do as they please. Also a creative search for a piece of "tree" that is tall and perhaps bent so that it
could go up one side and then turn to go across the tank, say maybe 6" under the top, would make a great place to put a Java Fern.
Maybe some Fissidens F. on the vertical part also. See in just a couple of seconds I suggested a "take up the empty space" type
of concept which fits your tall tank. BTW a Wisteria gets fairly large...check it on that link.
http://www.aqua-fish.net/index.php?...sto=not&rozmnozovanie=not&povod=not&speed=not


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

cool. I love fiss!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

mikestropicalfish said:


> cool. I love fiss!


Should mention that there is no such official title as "a balanced tank" but rather just a concept of mine.
But long as I'm on the subject...
Lookie what I found at 5:45 A.M. today...
See: Riversun - The Forests page 6 for a cool tank you won't believe...

P.S. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=201532


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

mikestropicalfish said:


> dude, you don't know everything. calm down. people use it all the time for quick fixes. when I serviced ATM's tanks in LA(tanked) we used it all the time. I don't really want to discuss chemipur anymore. the tank is fixed now, thx for your input. but lets say the issue comes back, and let me make this clear...I am a 30 vet of the tropical fish industry so I don't need lessons on the basics, in fact I only posted this thinking it would be fun to talk basics because sometimes its fun to go back to the drawing board, there is always something one can learn, and ive actually never done a planted tank in all this time lol! mostly an sps guy. im sure it will return because I know damn well there is a crapload of detritus in my gravel, which when I turned up the photoperiod fed this algae bloom. Although I have killed the algae with a blackout, and removed dead cells with a water change...I know the gravel still has excess nutrients....would you really think simply doing water changes weekly is going to keep this issue gone?? im not going to do daily changes forever, trying to run a shop here...don't you suppose I need to maybe gravel vac and replant and then not overload with fish/nutrients this time?? Lets hear some input minus the condescension!


I'm pretty sure i've been calm, and civil. Believe me i never got worked up on any of this. However water volume algae is such a beginner problem, and it seemed/seems you dont want to hear anything other then your right it's the lights fault, but water volume algae dosn't work like that. 

It takes neglect of the tank which in your case excess nutrients due to not having a good water change schedule, not vacuuming, what Raymond said, and not being ontop of things which as a shop owner should know better, be doing better especially after this whole "30 years" stuff, and believe me i know shop owners who've run shops much longer then you, and are still idiots, and i've done pretty much everything in the hobby, except i havn't had a water volume algae problem since the 90's. 

Yes a weekly maintenance schedule wouldn't of allowed it to happen i dont care how strong the light is. It takes time for buildup to get to that point. This stuff is so basic, so instead of wanting to be so stubborn, why not just take in consideration of what me or others are saying cause obviously your doing something wrong, and the 30 years vet speech dosn't mean anything to me. 

If your too busy running the shop to be on top of the weekly maintenance then get some help. Just trying to help. If i wanted to be a dick it wouldn't be hard in this case  Actually tried not to be because you are a business owner, and i know image is everything.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

*wow...*

















like I said in the first sentence of this thread, im new to planted tanks and like I said, I had too many fish/nutrients and too much light. I don't disagree with you....there is always something one can learn in this hobby and i'm not afraid to admit that. that's the fun part about it to me. I had a regular maintenance schedule on this tank here, and my shop is known to be immaculate...I just am new to plant tanks buddy,,,,jeeesh. I chose to just start it over and follow the both of you guys tips, i'll update this thread as time goes on. do you guys think I should run both lights or would one be sufficient? right now im easing back into it with one on 7 hours.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

btw Raymond, that link was awesome, thx for the help! ok, so im going to just do what you guys suggest and run both lights, hopefully my babys tears take off. I'm not running co2 btw.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

I've only been in the planted tank hobby for 13 months now myself, i dont think having a little anubias in some cichlid tanks counts so i wont count those years, and 21 years cichlids. We're both beginners in this realm, but it's easy to do 

I find staying low tech is much easier, and still get the results of some of the guys on here that do high tech, and over complicate it. 
As far as lights go is that a red melon sword on the left side? Mine did well in both low light, and med/high light. I found a lot of what some told me when i first asked about light ended up being wrong or overly cautious on what would do well or not without high light, and co2.

The best method for me personally was just observe how the plants did in the light, and just adjust as needed. I think plants all have a general range of how well they do in different levels of lights, but also directly affected by the particular tank they were in changed how well they did to. However the rule around here seems to state if your into the high light PAR range, your going to need co2. Without a PAR meter your going to have to be the judge of that, not sure if anyone has posted a PAR review of that light on here yet, but they may have. On the other hand i saw a tank at a local place weeks ago using a mr aqua LED over a mr aqua 12g long, and grew baby tears great without using any co2

So i guess i'd go with whatever light you like most, and take it from there, and just observe the plants see how well they do in it. Plants love water changes too, so for me i just treated the tanks as i would for my fish tanks, and did 25-50% a week water changes.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

As you say, I definitely need to do weekly changes, im used to saltwater which that would be too much. I also am going to do a staggered light thing with one on from noon till 7 pm and the second light coming on for a few hours in the middle. I realized today that this tank gets blasted with ambient light in the am thru the front windows so that will have to be considered as well.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

so all all re-set up and my plants are "pearling" for the first time!!(yes I know this is rookie stuff) this is good right??


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

algae bloom came back immediately


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

If you have a bucket you can put a heater in so it won't cool off in a couple of hrs, put the fish in there and turn off the heater in the
tank. Then change all the water in the tank or at least 80% of it. Put back some fresh water and turn the heater back on. When the water is back where the fish are used to that temp you can put them back. You have mostly rooted/slow growing/low light plants.
They aren't going to use up nutrients near as fast from the water. You need to only use one light as it's not really overkill to have it
like you do with the second on partial time but not with nothing using up the nutrients in there.
I would buy me a large handfull of floating Hortworth and just tie it with a piece of string around the filter intake. Let it grow as it
pleases but just trim it to keep it from taking over. This will(eventually) hide the intake but will take up those nutrients for you.
Once it gets growing well you can put the other light back on it's partial cycle. A simple solution if you don't want to wait till some
stemmed plants get a good growth on them. You'd need to put at least a few, like two bunches of Rotalla for example(spread out
and having each stem planted separately) to equal that floating Hortworth for absorbing nutrients. Litterally tie the Hortworth
around the intake(not tightly) and it will mostly grow upwards till it goes along the top if you let it. Trimming a bit each week
will keep it good looking. Only a suggestion...
ANY direct sunlight will make it very hard to be rid of this type algae until something is done to use up some of the nutrients.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/picture.php?albumid=14289&pictureid=46569
My daphnia culture tank 2.5g with 2-3 hrs of direct sunlight per day.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

yeah this is is my shop where I have 77 degree rowater ready to go in 400 gallon tanks with pumps to I can top off all the holding tanks in the showroom. I took the fish out and all the plants, did 100% water change put back and withing two days full on algae bloom again,,,def not a cycle bloom, this water is green when I syphon it out. I agree I ned something else to uptake nutrients, like wistiria or something stemmed. I did remove one light again and I feel that only one will ever be necessary, those fluval LEDs are VERY strong. I'm just a little unsure...I don't se how there are any nutrients to feed this bloom, I have a couple fish and very clean gravel. maybe I don't have a bacterial bloom, yet still don't have enough bacteria.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Didn't say, but any direct sunlight ? Water sprite may be a better choice. Wisteria hard to keep from getting holes
from deficiencies in nutrients. Massive up-take of Potassium. If it were the cause of your algae that would be great 
though. But more likely you would only end up with a plant that looks like the one in my gallery.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pGallery.php?do=view&rdo=myGallery&id=6865&cat=0&order=&page=0
Interesting that you took out the plants also. I'll have to remember that light if I ever go LED.
Is this pure R/O water that use ? But you did say top off the tanks.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

yes using pure RO. to try to eliminate any uneeded nutrients for now. I took the plants out so I could thoroughly clean the gravel, and I wanted to rescape anyway. I do have ambient sunlight but none direct....this tank was fine for months until I bumbed up to two lights...then I had this bloom and now I cant shake it off. im just going to kep waterchanging until my plants get established enough to outcompete the algae, and im gonna do as you sugest wuth the floating hortwort on the pipe.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

im still not convinced that having so much open water is not making a huge gren algae farm. think about it, that ruben sword is massive, 27 inch tall! you can se I have lots of light hiting open water here...


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

mikestropicalfish said:


> im still not convinced that having so much open water is not making a huge gren algae farm. think about it, that ruben sword is massive, 27 inch tall! you can se I have lots of light hiting open water here...


And in just that type of tank the Jungle Val look great. Had no idea that the middle plant was 27" tall. That sure would make it a tank
which is hard to find a piece of driftwood thin enough to not take up too much room while still being big enough to cover lots of
aria in there. I'll look one up for you so you can see what I mean when I describe how I'd use it, but I'll get back after 9P tonight/w
that part. This tank is roughly 13-14" front to back at the middle right ? And 12" F to B on each end ? I'll look it up before looking for
the wood. Indirect light is not likely to cause any algae issues so it's the downward light from the tank lights that cause this.
I wouldn't keep any fish in there while your doing this water change thing. Bouncing their Ph is the worst thing for them. They usually
can get over a shock, but if it keeps fluctuating it gets them.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

I get the driftwood thing, but this is what I got! I had envisioned a much bigger piece but i'm going with this for now.....I agree, no fish would be best. btw, I have a bunch or red lud. in there, its short and on the front right and I have some dwarf sag on the left in front. damn I wish I had never turned up the lights!!!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Don't know if practical application would be anything like dreaming of it, but I have avoided tanks that tall for just this reason.
I'd find (and just how long would that take) a piece of limb that had a right angle in it. Hopefully I could get one that you
didn't need to cut and had a limb almost long enough to cross the tank. The bottom would be towards one side and start going up
that side to turn towards the other end. Hopefully you could rest the tip on one end glass so that you could just pull it back to
clean the glass. It would make a nice place to plant Java Ferns on especially the crossing limb. The spot where the right angle occurred 
could rest on the back of the tank. But just daydreaming as how often do you find just what you want like that.
Sitting here wondering if my LFS sold me Rotala indica by mistake(or otherwise) as the last bunch which was supposed to be
another bunch of Magenta looked very pale pink along the top half of it, but all the new growth is coming out green as can be.
The older pieces next to it are coming out much lighter than their original leaves were but it's still red in/on the new growth.
So it's not the lights fault cause this new batch has more of it than the old does.
Got to go for a while...


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

seems to be back under control but I had to remove one light system and use only one fluval at 6hrs a day only. as plants really get going maybe i'll ramp up the lights but im hoping to stay as low tech as poss for now.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

yeah, it was defenitly the result of too much light. tank is chrystal clear now.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Good for both you and the tank. After you get more growth you can extend the hrs to a more normal 8 perhaps.
Those lights must be stronger than I thought to need to use 6 hrs to keep down the algae/w only one of them.
Don't remember if I mentioned it but a plant called Frog Bit lays flat on the top(a floating plant) so it don't
create a problem for a hood or other top you may have like some floating plants do. Doesn't work well with a
Hob type filter if the filter has any gap between it and the water. Surface disturbances mess/w it for some
reason. But that plant has roots that extend down to about 12" when it's fully grown. People sometimes use them
to limit the amount of light in their tanks, but in your case it can also serve to give the top something to just be
there. Just a thought...


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

really like frogbit, it gives that "swamp thing" kind look!! I am shocked with the performance of these lights as well, very cheap for the output.


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## UDGags (Sep 13, 2009)

Hey Mike

If you want to reduce the light output (PAR) and increase your photoperiod duration to match your shop hours you can use window screen tape that you buy at your local hardware store to cover your lights.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

still clear, plants lush at 6 hours!!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

So where's the pictures ? LOL...


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)




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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Nothing wrong with that. From what I can tell of which kind they are the plants look like slow growing type. Think you had a list somewhere back but stemmed will tend to grow a bit faster in general if that's desired. Having a ten G tank, I tend to lean towards the more narrow
leaved/stemmed kinds but you might like Rotala Macrandra in there. Alleged to get 10-22" tall.
http://www.aqua-fish.net/show.php?what=plant&cur_lang=2&id=60
I'm trying to do these right now(fairly new)along/w the other plants in there.
http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=768+1631+2386&pcatid=2386
http://search.yahoo.com/search;_ylt...yff40&p=ludwigia+arcuata+x+repens&rc=x+repens
I'll have to see cause the Magenta has been badly damaged so is going very slow and just got the other so it just doing green
for the first couple of leaves till it gets a start good.
Considering what one of your lights did I don't think you have much stopping you from most any plants growing in there.
If I showed you a cronological list of the oldest ten I have, you would trip at some of the messes/w algae etc as it matures.
You could get a "plant package" if you wanted an overnight jungle. I've never done that as I like to watch them evolve.


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## Marko_Sp (Jun 5, 2010)

My aquarium got in trouble with cloudy water two months ago, it started as filter hoses become dirty. I have cleaned everything, but water become totally cloudy, fishes have can't seen at front glass. Then I tried blackout for 4 days, the situation become better, but not too much. I have tried everything in that two months, chemicals, flocullants, no fertilizers, nothing helps.
At last have bought at ebay cheap JEBO UV light - it is four day as works and the water become almost clear.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Marko_Sp said:


> My aquarium got in trouble with cloudy water two months ago, it started as filter hoses become dirty. I have cleaned everything, but water become totally cloudy, fishes have can't seen at front glass. Then I tried blackout for 4 days, the situation become better, but not too much. I have tried everything in that two months, chemicals, flocullants, no fertilizers, nothing helps.
> At last have bought at ebay cheap JEBO UV light - it is four day as works and the water become almost clear.


Cloudy greyish or cloudy green ? How long has the tank been set up ? What size ? What filter ? What fish ? How much/often
do you change water ? How many hrs of light ? What kind of light ? Cloudy water can mean that there is something wrong
in your tank. "Fixing" the cloudiness may not be "fixing" what is wrong in there.


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## mikestropicalfish (Oct 28, 2013)

Cloudy greyish or cloudy green ? How long has the tank been set up ? What size ? What filter ? What fish ? How much/often
do you change water ? How many hrs of light ? What kind of light ? Cloudy water can mean that there is something wrong
in your tank. "Fixing" the cloudiness may not be "fixing" what is wrong in there.

perfect answer, I ask that same set of questions 10 times a day in my shop


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