# Need help with hanging lighting fixture from ceiling(updated with pic)



## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

So since no one has responded yet I'm gonna tell you what I'm going to do.

I'm going to purchase a ceiling hook package that comes with butterfly anchors. Then Im going to buy a small size long chain and hang the light fixture from that.


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## Overfloater (Jan 12, 2004)

That should work. Just check the anchor rating for your thickness of drywall and make sure it will be strong enough.


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## jccaclimber (Aug 29, 2011)

You'd be safer if you can find locate the ceiling beams and put 2-3 inch wood or drywall screws into those. Butterfly anchors will also work so long as you never lean on the light.


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## thefisherman (Oct 15, 2011)

use zip anchors bro... they drill right into drywall and support a lot if weight. i use the zip anchor and a clised eye hook. i'll look for the specs and post pics in a bit


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

The trouble with most ceiling is the josts never seem to be in the right place.:hihi:

I'm not sure of your DIY skill set. Lets start with position. Get you tank where you want it first. Take a string with a weight like a steel washer tied to one end. Hold the string to the ceiling above the tank with the washer dangling down. Position the washer the spot were you think you want one end of the light fixture. then mark the spot on the ceiling where you are hold the string with a PENCIL...never use ink on a painted wall, repeat for the other side.

I like to keep my lights a bit behind the center line of the tank. Most of my planting is there vs. the front glass and I think it's easier on the eyes to view.

Once you figure where they go you need to know whats behind that drywall. The easiest way is to use a 3" finish nail and a hammer. Gently hammer the nail in the drywall, most dry wall ceiling will be 1/2" if the there is a joist behind the dry wall you'll feel it after the nail is 1/2" in. 

The joist will be apps 1 1/2" wide if there is a joist right over the tank, them you can use an eye hook and screw it right into the joist. tThat will be very strong. If not you can use the butterfly anchor.

A stronger approach would be to find two joists and attach a 1"x3" painted board to them (Think track light, trank). Then you can eyebolt two the board. this is nice if the joist don't line up perfecty for your tank lay out. As long as you get two screws into the two joists it doest matter how the board is attached, it could be 8" over on joist and 12" over the other. BTW most joists are 16" center, center of the 1 1/2" board is 16" to the center of the next one.


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## thefisherman (Oct 15, 2011)

dogfish totally broke it down... but this is what zip anchors look like. i like them cuz usually the joist is mever where i need them to be, therefore you could drill right into the center of drywall and the anchor will support some heavy loads. here are the pics 


Sent from my iPhone


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## jccaclimber (Aug 29, 2011)

Hotlinked from McMaster-Carr, here are your other options for drywall anchors:


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

So I got back from Lowes and I think I found what I needed.

One part might not work But ill give it a try tomorrow. 



















Now the part I'm not really sure about yet is the biggest S hook you see in the picture fitting around the white hooks WHILE being crimped shut. It was the only size I could find that looked like the end of the S hook would fit through the chains link. 









And thank you guys for responding. I will for sure use that method of measuring Dogfish. Thank you.

But if This does work out good then I think it's gonna look really nice with the smaller type chain holding the light up.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

thefisherman said:


> ... this is what zip anchors look like. ...



I've used those at work in walls, they do work good if you install straight and true.

You are very correct josts are seldom where you need them. That is always the case when you are running wiring.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

"Now the part I'm not really sure about yet is the biggest S hook you see in the picture fitting around the white hooks WHILE being crimped shut. "

Do all the work, hang the light but, don't crimp that end around the white ceiling hook...YET.

Go back to the hardware store and get a 1" steel ring or a "quick-link"both will be where they sell chain. Crimp that s hook onto the ring. If you buy the quick link you won't need the s hook at all. 

I think the quick link would look better. Either will be under $1 ea.


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## jccaclimber (Aug 29, 2011)

Or use an s-hook and just never crimp it shut. I do agree though that quick links do look nicer.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

Thank you Dog fish. Im gonna go back tomorrow and see what they have. A lot of stuff was out of stock so I might have to drive over to the home depot. hopefully they sell small ones.

And jcc

I can do that but for my piece of of mind I'd rather know something is secure and not gonna slip for any reason.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

And If I do find a small one. Atleast 3.5mm, I can just use the small S hooks to blend with the chain itself even better.


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## thefisherman (Oct 15, 2011)

i don't like S hooks, i like closed eyes and locking grabs... i have a 3yr old nephew that loves to watch the fish if ya get my drift lol


Sent from my iPhone


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## jccaclimber (Aug 29, 2011)

^That's a good reason to not like drywall anchors as well.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

haha well thats definitely a good reason not to like S hooks.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

Update!

Got it installed tonight!

The one hook on the right is in a beam and the left one isn't lol.

It was a PAIN in the ass because I made the mistake of not drilling into the wood BEFORE twisted the hook in. It broke in half and took like an hour trying to get the broken screw out. Anyways.. it's up now and It look awesome!

Let me know what you think guys! I'll post pics of it tomorrow morning with the lights on.


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## thefisherman (Oct 15, 2011)

looking giod man gratz... do you have a way of adjusting the height (to play with light distribution/intensity)? :O


Sent from my iPhone


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

You did good! Looks nice. Yep, your really want to drill a pilot hole before trying to screw into a joist :hihi: One trick is once it is started you can use a long screw driver for leverage to turn the Hook into the wood. You put the screwdriver in the hook like a handle, with the other hand, put your thumb on the head of the hook and push up with gentle pressure. You'll find they zip right in.

It's good you hit at least one joist, that will really help hold it.

I'm glad you looked at the Quick-links, they give a much "cleaner" look. The nice thing is it will be easy to make height adjustments with the quick links. Just don't trim off the excess until you are positive of any height changes,

I've got lights hanging by chains over my grow out tanks. I use S-hooks when I need to the raise the light to get into the tanks. Just hook in a few inches above the light then raise and double hook ion the chain above. 

For a display tank just keep a pair near the tank or with your water change kit.

I have a light with a similar design, I think you can pull those steel adjustment legs out if you want.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

thefisherman said:


> looking giod man gratz... do you have a way of adjusting the height (to play with light distribution/intensity)? :O
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone



Yes I do! Since it a chain, I'm using these S hooks that connect the chain to the light. If I want to raise it I simply unhook the s hooks and then rebook it lol. And I left so some slack as well in case I need to lower it.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

DogFish said:


> You did good! Looks nice. Yep, your really want to drill a pilot hole before trying to screw into a joist :hihi: One trick it that once it is started you can use a long screw driver for leverage to turn the Hook into the wood. You put the screwdriver in the hook like a handle, with the other hand, put your thumb on the head of the hook and push up with gentle pressure. You'll find they zip right in.
> 
> It's good you hit at least one joist, that will really help hold it.
> 
> ...



Thanks! really appreciate all the advice. I did leave some slack thats hidden behind the fixture itself. And yes I kep two hooks near my tank in case I want to raise it for cleaning and what not.

Heres a pic with the light on. Keep in mind my tank is in the middle of an extreme makeover lol.








And unfortunately the legs on the light can;t come out because of these little pegs that prevent it from come all the way off.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

You got all the hard stuff out of the way. Now, comes the fun part. 
Understand I'm a compulsive DIY OCDC "tweeker"  

Maybe swap -out the black power cord with a white cord so it disappears against the white wall? It might look better with the power cord on the same side as the HOB too.

So, what's your Aquascape plan?


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## robbowal (Mar 27, 2011)

BlazednSleepy said:


> And unfortunately the legs on the light can;t come out because of these little pegs that prevent it from come all the way off.


on the hagen light fitting have a look at the top of the "Peg" it is most likely a grub screw to fix the legs at a set length. if it has a slit in the top just unscrew it and then you can pull off the extending rails.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

DogFish said:


> You got all the hard stuff out of the way. Now, comes the fun part.
> Understand I'm a compulsive DIY OCDC "tweeker"
> 
> Maybe swap -out the black power cord with a white cord so it disappears against the white wall? It might look better with the power cord on the same side as the HOB too.
> ...


lol I'm not that DIY savy to do something like that. The black cord doesn't bother me at all. 

The HOB will be replaced with a eheim2217 that I've had to return 2 already from wither not working properly or being damaged during shipping:icon_conf.


My scape will be pretty simple. This will be my piece of driftwood I just purchased from plant brain. the right piece. and he's throwing in some smaller branches for me to experiment with.










Gonna fill it in with some anubias nana, java ferns, maybe some moss and some crypts. Since this will be my first official planted tank I'm starting off Low tech:thumbsup:


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

robbowal said:


> on the hagen light fitting have a look at the top of the "Peg" it is most likely a grub screw to fix the legs at a set length. if it has a slit in the top just unscrew it and then you can pull off the extending rails.


I'm gonna look at it some more. I've kind of tugged on the little peg and I feel movement. Maybe they will come off with pliers. But I'm not gonna force it lol.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

BlazednSleepy said:


> lol I'm not that DIY savy to do something like that. The black cord doesn't bother me at all....
> ....Gonna fill it in with some anubias nana, java ferns, maybe some moss and some crypts. Since this will be my first official planted tank I'm starting off Low tech:thumbsup:


I understand electrical can be a bit intimidating so, I won't start telling you how stupid easy swapping out a power cord is. :hihi:

I think that a wise move starting low tech as there are less variables. I prefer low tech for my own tanks because while i don't mind all the seat up prep. I just want to enjoy my display tanks with as little fuss as I can.

Take a look at the "Crypt Club" thread, the "Show me your rare crypts" thread and the "Crypt list threads" on the plant forums. There is a pretty helpful group of crypt collectors there that can help you get started.


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## BlazednSleepy (Aug 21, 2010)

awesome sauce! thanks!


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