# Tired of the never ending battle!



## saltykisses (Dec 30, 2013)

I don't know for sure but they have some red cynao bacteria remover for saltwater .. Maybe research into freshwater treatments...


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Poss ask the manufacturer if that one would work???


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## Oto Guy (Jan 3, 2014)

Make sure it is established water with beneficial bacteria. A treatment like saltykisses said could work. Also just do something to lower nitrtates like more plants or lava rocks.


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## jmowbray (Dec 20, 2009)

I have used a product called algaefix. Lowering levels isn't going to do much as it's a bacteria not really photosynthetic. You need to kill all that bacteria and keep it killed. You can also try stop treating with H2O2.


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## Lia (Aug 2, 2007)

kjacks said:


> Since ive moved in april 2013, ive been battling green cyno...:angryfire
> Before i moved outta the city, my tank was flourishing.. Now its total CRAP! Everything is the same except the water... Up to any suggestions!!


When I lived in Bayside NY , EVERYONE in my particular area (who I knew) with tanks had cyno , The city would pump in phosphates to the pipes to prevent them from leaching lead (they were old pipes). 

They since put in new pipes and the cyno is history but it was funny to see local people at the pet store always buying some type anti-phosphate product.

Either way even with the added phosphate , I purchased a Tap Water purifier by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals and that was the end of my cyno problem.

I know that it is a bacteria per-se but it needs phosphates to thrive. It will disappear without it .

In my case , water changes from the tap were just feeding it and anti-phosphate products were short lived and not crazy about them as far as some 'mess up' ph, etc .

I would think that your water supply has much higher phosphates than it did when you lived in your other area and thus the cyno.

My tanks here are fantastic and the ONLY difference is the water .


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## jmf3460 (Aug 21, 2013)

Hi, I have had experience with cyanobacteria before and have successfully gotten rid of it without the ethromycin, maybe I can share it with you. My best friend happens to be a real life biologist and has her masters degree in aquatic biology specializing in fresh water pond waters so when I found bga I went to her instead of this forum, shame on me I know. she informed me that it is indeed a bacteria and that it thrives in stale, stagnant water such as feed troughs or areas of ponds where the current doesn't flow well. 

I removed the plants with cyanobacteria and got all visible areas clean then added an airstone under the plants I always saw with it. I actually added a long air tube at the bottom of the back of my tank and turn it on every night now. It has not returned. I figured that with my hob filter the current doesn't really reach all the way to the bottom of the tank and that is where the cyanobacteria always started and spread from. I also use excel everyday in addition to the injected co2 which I didn't do before the cyanobacteria outbreak and it may have helped. I was able to clear it without adding chemicals


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Low O2 level's,dirty filter's,dirty substrate's can encourage the cyno.
Good flow,clean filter's regularly or more often,tidy up substrate where possible.Lot's of folk's add phosphates each day or every other day in high energy,high tech tank's and never see cyno.


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## saltykisses (Dec 30, 2013)

But y'know once you've got it,....it's one of the hardest things to get rid of, I had to result in a treatment especially for red cynao bacteria.. And I wish I'd just done that right away instead of wasting so much time and messing around..


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## kjacks (Oct 12, 2012)

So what Ive gathered from all the replies is to first do a major water change, and then get rid of any visible cyno, then do a black out for 3 days? after that do another water change 70 percent, add oxygen at night and clean filters more often? I am also using RO/DI water from my own new filter, and mixing it 50/50 with my tap water... Trying to avoid any store bought chems to fix the prob...


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## saltykisses (Dec 30, 2013)

Kjacks I'd just use the r.o and remineralizer salts..

Only way to know wafts in your water and then poss put some rowaphos in a filter.. 


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## kjacks (Oct 12, 2012)

I was doing the equilibrium from seachem, but i was told it was pretty much the same as 50/50 with tap water and not to waste money on it... Also not getting the buffering capacity with equilibrium... Just want a good solution to the nasty algae prob...


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

water change, water change, water change and fix co2, lights and ferts.
This is the way I treat this type of algae before. Do water change multiple times a week and fix everything in place.


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## saltykisses (Dec 30, 2013)

I don't think 50/50 is a good idea because if your tap water supply is like mine no3 is at 35 p.p.m and even at half strength it still would be 17.5 p.p.m and that is way to much ..


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## jkpedrita (Jun 5, 2013)

kjacks said:


> So what Ive gathered from all the replies is to first do a major water change, and then get rid of any visible cyno, then do a black out for 3 days? after that do another water change 70 percent, add oxygen at night and clean filters more often?


Yep. I just did this to a ten gallon that got icky. Water change. 3 day black out. Another water change (much sure to siphon out the dead cyano). If there is any cyano left another three day blackout. After that make sure you have good flow, clean filters and frequent water changes. It works like a charm.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

BGA is a bacteria, not an algae. Let's start there. Most people will do everything suggested above and more. Hey, sprinkle chicken blood over your tank and speak in tongues. Whatever turns you on. The *actual* way to get rid of it once and for all is to use an antibiotic. The go-to is Maracyn (not the II or Plus - PLAIN Maracyn). It's erythromycin and it works. Dose per package.

You can also find it at http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/products.html in the "consumer package" as EM-PRO, for a lot cheaper per dose.










Sometimes MVP will have it on aquabid. Be careful that if you buy it on E-bay that you email the seller and ask for the expiration date. Nothing like having a half full jar of meds that expire in 2 months. Don't ask me how I know this 

Good Luck


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

jkpedrita said:


> Yep. I just did this to a ten gallon that got icky. Water change. 3 day black out. Another water change (much sure to siphon out the dead cyano). If there is any cyano left another three day blackout. After that make sure you have good flow, clean filters and frequent water changes. It works like a charm.


Yes,,must fix the root cause's or forever deal with it's return.
Better maint routine = no $$ spent on chemical cures.
Patince help's also.Stuff usually does not appear or disappear over night, but with stepped up maint,cleaning of filter's,reduced organic input ,one could happily find themselves watching plant's grow,trimming plant's ,rather than battling with what is often self inflicted problem's.IMHO


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## kjacks (Oct 12, 2012)

I will try to do better maintenance work, but Im also having issues with RO/DI water Buffering... It seems like the PH will not rise. It actually drops and stays down during the day when the lights are on... I am currently using a PH controller to moniter Co2, with the setpoint at 6.8.. Im trying to maintain a GH of 4 to 6. Is there anything wrong with what Im doing at this point??


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## kjacks (Oct 12, 2012)

I think Ive figured out the prob with my RO/DI water.. I have not been adding any alkaline buffer to raise to the desired PH, which causes my PH controller to misfunction by not activating the Co2... Gonna do a 70 percent water change today and clean most of the visible bacteria, then start a three day blackout...


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## John Simpson (Mar 14, 2013)

erythromycin is a good nuclear option if all else fails


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## Lia (Aug 2, 2007)

m00se said:


> BGA is a bacteria, not an algae. Let's start there. Most people will do everything suggested above and more. Hey, sprinkle chicken blood over your tank and speak in tongues. Whatever turns you on. The *actual* way to get rid of it once and for all is to use an antibiotic. The go-to is Maracyn (not the II or Plus - PLAIN Maracyn). It's erythromycin and it works. Dose per package.
> 
> You can also find it at http://www.nationalfishpharm.com/products.html in the "consumer package" as EM-PRO, for a lot cheaper per dose.
> 
> ...


It is a bacteria but it needs phosphates and too much phosphate will cause the problem.

I battled it for 2 years due to phosphate being pumped in to the town pipes to coat them from leaching lead . The DI tapwater purfier put an end to the cyno.


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