# black algae



## grantnielsen (Jan 5, 2016)

I have black algae growing on the edges of my anubis and starting to speead inwards on the leaf. It started with the anubis and then spread to my taller plants in the background. I have tried scrubbing it off with a little toothbrush and tried scraping it off with my fingernail. This stuff doesnt seem to even budge off the plant. What can i do to remove this black stuff and how can i keep it from returning? 
I also have anacharis that is growing fast but the stem besides the top inch is growing algae on it too. Why?

My setup-
29 gallon
2-24watt t5 ho lights. 1-6500k. 1-5000k
Photoperiod 12hrs
Whisper in tank filter no carbon
Co2 injection- 5-6 bps
Pps-pro macro and micro fert once daily
Eco complete substrate
Root tabs under bigger plants
Water parameters are normal
Ph is 8.0
(If im missing something let me know)
Am i doing something wrong? This is my first planted tank. Been set up since october 2015. And these problems have been there since. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!!!!! I can take pictures if i need to


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## touch of sky (Nov 1, 2011)

This is black brush algae. Here is a good article with suggestions on its control:
Public Enemy #1: Black Brush Algae and how to fight it


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

Hi grantnielsen,
First, I would remove the 6500K bulb. Then I would start shortening the photoperiod one hour a day until having 9 hours left. Then lowered CO2 to half, 6 bps is not needed. 

Root tabs are not the best option under coarse substrates because the nutrients will leak out too much. 

When you say “Water parameters are normal”, what does it mean normal? Do you have any tested levels? That would help. Like your pH is 8.0. That is not good. Where is it coming from? Tap, substrate? Need to find out.

Also I would get fast growing stem plants everywhere to start the ecosystem. It is better to pay more attention to growing healthy plants then cleaning algae. Only healthy plants can get rid of algae. https://sites.google.com/site/aquaticplantfertilizer/home/algae

Edward PPS


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

You're probably overdosing trace nutrients. Do a 200% WC and dose only when you observe plant issues. Then learn to read the plants.


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## grantnielsen (Jan 5, 2016)

Thanks for the reply edward. I live in nebraska so we have hard water and high ph. My other tanks ph is 8.6 haha so a ph of 8 to me is pretty good. My nitrates. Nitrites. And amonia are all at a safe level. Also i have in my tank some anacharis which is growing like crazy. Red reuben sword which is also very healthy. My java ferns and anubias howerver are the ones not doing good. 
So im curious as to why i should take out the 6500k light? Is it just too much or the wrong spectrum? Thanks for your help in advance. Here are some pictures of my tank to help out


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## pauliewoz (Sep 22, 2015)

I'm battling the same algae right now. From my experience and research this algae occurs on slow growing plants and ones that are not doing too good.

From the research I did, it appears that the cause of this algae is low or fluctuating CO2 and/or high organic material. 

There was also some info on driftwood being a possible cause as well, which could be linked with the high organics, especially if you have grazing fish like plecos.

One way to temporarily get rid of it while you find the solution is to turn off the filters and to spot treat it with either hydrogen peroxide or excel. Just make sure not to overdose. With H2O2 I do 0.5 ml per gallon. I turn the filters back on when the fizzing stops or slows down. Or if I see my shrimp is stressed out.

I'm also trying to increase my water change to twice a week, and try to make sure to give the substrate a good vacuuming. And any time I see a dead leaf from a plant I remove it right away. I also cut off any leaf that is not doing good.

I also use a siesta lighting period. I don't know if it helps or not, but I don't think it's doing any harm either.

I haven't completely gotten rid of it, but it definitely slowed down.


Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

Hi grantnielsen,
Because of the extreme water conditions and few plants, dosing may need adjustments. I would watch for NO3 and PO4 keeping them in proper ranges. 

Next is CO2 Carbonic acid. It is dissolving the substrate releasing more GH, KH. It needs to be kept under control. If you do periodic water changes then it is fine. If not then the easiest way is to get $5 Conductivity tester and change water when values get 50% above tap. https://sites.google.com/site/aquaticplantfertilizer/home/tds-meter

Also the light intensity and duration are so high the plants can’t keep up. It makes them weaker and less resistant to algae. 
Personally I prefer warmer colour lighting because it gives greener and redder view. Plants don’t care much about colour so if you like the colours you already have then go for it. If I had to have both bulbs running then lowering the photoperiod to eight hours makes more sense. 

Edward PPS


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## klibs (May 1, 2014)

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> You're probably overdosing trace nutrients. Do a 200% WC and dose only when you observe plant issues. Then learn to read the plants.





Edward said:


> Also the light intensity and duration are so high the plants can’t keep up. It makes them weaker and less resistant to algae.


I agree with these statements. You have like no plants in that tank so you should basically be dosing no trace elements. Plants don't need much at all and they can become toxic pretty easily. Your issue is a combination of a lot of things but these 2 points will help out quite a bit IMO


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## grantnielsen (Jan 5, 2016)

Ok. I started dosing pps pro because on another thread they told me i had nutrient defficiencies and i needed to start dosing macro and micro nutrients


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## Solcielo lawrencia (Dec 30, 2013)

Even PPS pro can result in toxicity. I wouldn't dose until you see signs of a true deficiency. Why? Because there is very little plant mass in the tank which fish food should be able to provide most of the necessary nutrients.


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## grantnielsen (Jan 5, 2016)

Should i stop pps pro or just reduce my dosage. Right now i dose 1 ml per 10 gal.


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## Edward (Apr 11, 2005)

Hi grantnielsen
Here is another suggestion that may suit your expectation.

Nutrients for your 29 gallon aquarium:
Daily dose
PPS-Pro Solution #1, 3 ml or 60 drops
PPS-Pro Solution #2, 3 ml or 60 drops
Water change 50% once a week 
This will guarantee proper water column nutrient levels of 14 ppm NO3, 1.4 ppm PO4, 18 ppm K , 1.4 ppm Fe(TE), 1.4 ppm Mg. No testing needed and no deficiencies.

Lighting:
9 hour photoperiod 1 x 24W T5

CO2:
+/- 3 bps continues

This schema assumes you are using the original chemicals as per https://sites.google.com/site/aquaticplantfertilizer/home/chemicals . 


Edward PPS


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## grantnielsen (Jan 5, 2016)

So just so im clear #1 is macro nutrients-k2so4, kn03, kh2p04, mgs04 and #2 is micro

I forgot to input that i ordered a 240 gph powerhead and a drop checker that will be here feb 1st


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