# All Fluval Spec Mods



## MABJ

I've noticed so many threads on Fluval Specs lately, and I know I personally love my tank. 

So wether you've got the Spec 1, 4, 5, 194738, if you've got some lighting that worked for you, or you did a trick to the equipment, added something, replaced the filter, please comment here!

If it works for you, comment. If it doesn't work for you, still comment! It could really help all of us out collectively to have it in one place. 

I'll start off with a few things I have learned in the next post!


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## MABJ

Alrighty.. 

So a few things I've learned..

In order:

1: The tank is really nice, but you could always replace the filter. The black section is easily removable, and you could stick in some normal filter and still use it like that, just have the extra deep space. 

2: If you hate the frosted glass, and you want to try out the idea in #1 (keep in mind that is kind of a permanent mod..) you can put normal scotch tape on the frost, and it makes it see through again. I personally like it the way it is, so I haven't done this. 

3: I've looked for different filter ideas, or how to make it better, but I feel like for keeping fish and baby fish, you should put a nylon stocking rubber banded over the outflow if you have the stock black outflow unit. 

4: The filter slit at the bottom is/was a huge issue for me. I'd love for different successes and failures on it, but I realized that plugging it completely wasn't the best idea. I put a plastic mesh cover on the front of the sponge cartridge, and when I slipped it down, it kept my shrimp from getting back there. I learned the hard way, they can, will and do get back there and die. 

That's all I've got for now! I hope people like the idea of the thread! 


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## STS_1OO

Thanks for starting this thread! I'll be watching this carefully. 

I have a Fluval Spec V and the only thing that I have modified as of right now is the lighting unit. I upgraded it to a Finnex Fugeray 16".

This gives me around 30 PAR at 12" from the substrate putting me on the higher end of low-light and close to the lower end of medium light.


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## MABJ

Nice! I'm shocked the finnex doesn't give you a higher par rating!

But I bet it looks great. You should put a higher light moss on top of your sponge on SS mesh.

It looks nice. 


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## Basil

The filter itself was never an issue for me however I did place a sponge over the outflow nozzle to reduce flow for my betta. I also did not like having that extra slit that allows water to bypass my filter media so I simply placed a piece of acrylic I had between the sponge and the wall. This all but sealed that little slit. For lighting I am using the Fluval 13 watt PC fixture. Those are the mods I've done and it is still a happy Spec!


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## STS_1OO

MABJ said:


> Nice! I'm shocked the finnex doesn't give you a higher par rating!
> 
> But I bet it looks great. You should put a higher light moss on top of your sponge on SS mesh.
> 
> It looks nice.
> 
> 
> MABJ's iDevice used for this message


Maybe you're thinking of the Finnex Ray II. Those puppies *16" or 18"* would put me squarely in the medium light to the high light. Those would require injected CO2 and a rigorous fert regime. 

I'm going to try and see what effect plugging the slit has. 

Also, does anyone cover the grates as well? I'm afraid the micro rasboras i'm planning on getting will cross over to the filter side through those grates. 

The water should still cascade over the top of the divider, no?


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## MABJ

Basil said:


> The filter itself was never an issue for me however I did place a sponge over the outflow nozzle to reduce flow for my betta. I also did not like having that extra slit that allows water to bypass my filter media so I simply placed a piece of acrylic I had between the sponge and the wall. This all but sealed that little slit. For lighting I am using the Fluval 13 watt PC fixture. Those are the mods I've done and it is still a happy Spec!


I've heard 2 or 3 times that 13 watt fixture is nice. Does it require co2 or anything because its 13 watts in a 2 gallon aquarium?


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## STS_1OO

I think it'd be wise for everyone to explain which tank they have (or which one they're talking about) to place modifications and problems into perspective.


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## MABJ

STS_1OO said:


> I think it'd be wise for everyone to explain which tank they have (or which one they're talking about) to place modifications and problems into perspective.


That is wise. Although they are all constructed similarly. 

I personally have the 2g. I struggled to find a scape that actually worked for it. But I think it is ok now. 

You can check my progress in my spec signature. 

I'm two days away from putting a nylon cover over the filter outflow. 


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## MABJ

Hey guys! I've been considering swapping out my pump for a canister filter. Zoomed 501. How would this work out in your opinions? 

I feel like this would work for any spec, as it is rated for 30 gallons. 


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## Basil

MABJ said:


> Hey guys! I've been considering swapping out my pump for a canister filter. Zoomed 501. How would this work out in your opinions?
> 
> I feel like this would work for any spec, as it is rated for 30 gallons.
> 
> 
> MABJ's iDevice used for this message



You could put the intake for the filter in the rear chamber and still be able to use the surface skimming ability of the wall. Then you can place the spray bar along the long side of the tank, if it'll fit.


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## MABJ

Basil said:


> You could put the intake for the filter in the rear chamber and still be able to use the surface skimming ability of the wall. Then you can place the spray bar along the long side of the tank, if it'll fit.


Oh man I'm thinking of cutting the spray bar down and putting it in the small side of the tank... This would work REALLY well. 


NOT TO MENTION I can cut some sponge up and shove it in the pit of death place in the dang lower slit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I think others should chime in on this. I'm really excited. 

No longer would it matter if you plugged the lower slit, just make sure nobody can get past it! I think it would make all specs a lot better cleaned, and I could control the flow with cotton/nylon, yeah?


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## AquaMD

Also been thinking about a small canister - placing the input and out put in the filter area.
Only think holding me back is I like the self contained cleanliness of the set up.


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## MABJ

AquaMD said:


> Also been thinking about a small canister - placing the input and out put in the filter area.
> Only think holding me back is I like the self contained cleanliness of the set up.


The only cleanliness I've noticed is the visual lol. But it is the same as a sponge filter almost. 

I propose this.. Pardon the bad drawing. 










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## MABJ

Woooooooot! Canister filter works like a CHARM. You can check out my spec thread for more details, but I cut the pipes down and it all fits. 










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## WONTAR

This is my fluval spec V I’ve had up and running for about 3 months. 

Currently have 2 threadfin rainbows, 3 danio galaxy, an oto, and 2 CRS and 3 ghost shrimp. Since setting up the tank I’ve only lost 1CRS to what looked like a molting problem, but that was just a couple of days after introduction - the other two have seemed fine for 2 months now.

The plants are all stock plants from Petsmart, but have really done well. Currently 25% of the water is changed weekly, with daily Excel doses. 

The only modifications I made to the setup was the addition of an off brand LED light (8000K white/12000K blue) and an AquaClear 20 powerhead to get some water agitation for increased CO2. The tank is divided up into two minor eco systems. The left side is brighter, open, with faster water movement. The right side is darker with slower water movement. The oto loves the quicker brighter side, while the shrimp hang out more on the darker quieter side. I gave up taking pictures of the fish, they move to fast. 

I have been surprised at the plant growth. Need to get in there a do a little aquascaping, but some tools bought on Amazon are wrapped and under the Christmas tree.:icon_wink


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## MABJ

That's an awesome spec! I like the changes. I'd definitely add more ottos to the shoal. 


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## WONTAR

Thanks! One of the things that attracted me to the V was the sleek stock light. But now it is driving me crazy - very difficult to work around it if you need to get into the tank.


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## maxwellag

MABJ said:


> Alrighty..
> 
> So a few things I've learned..
> 
> In order:
> 
> 1: The tank is really nice, but you could always replace the filter. The black section is easily removable, and you could stick in some normal filter and still use it like that, just have the extra deep space.
> 
> 2: If you hate the frosted glass, and you want to try out the idea in #1 (keep in mind that is kind of a permanent mod..) you can put normal scotch tape on the frost, and it makes it see through again. I personally like it the way it is, so I haven't done this.
> 
> 3: I've looked for different filter ideas, or how to make it better, but I feel like for keeping fish and baby fish, you should put a nylon stocking rubber banded over the outflow if you have the stock black outflow unit.
> 
> 4: The filter slit at the bottom is/was a huge issue for me. I'd love for different successes and failures on it, but I realized that plugging it completely wasn't the best idea. I put a plastic mesh cover on the front of the sponge cartridge, and when I slipped it down, it kept my shrimp from getting back there. I learned the hard way, they can, will and do get back there and die.
> 
> That's all I've got for now! I hope people like the idea of the thread!
> 
> 
> MABJ's iDevice used for this message


I haven't really seen a reason or need to modify mine yet. The filter seems to be just right (flow wise) for the tank, and it has a huge amount of media compared to filters with similar flow rates. I also see no point in replacing a built in hidden filter compartment with a HOB filter. I also haven't had much of an issue with shrimp getting into the filter compartment, but the easiest way to fix the issue is by lowering the water level so that it is barely above the overflow strainer. That would likely reduce the flow of the filter, so it might be a good idea to put stainless steel mesh or something behind the strainer.


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## MABJ

maxwellag said:


> I haven't really seen a reason or need to modify mine yet. The filter seems to be just right (flow wise) for the tank, and it has a huge amount of media compared to filters with similar flow rates. I also see no point in replacing a built in hidden filter compartment with a HOB filter. I also haven't had much of an issue with shrimp getting into the filter compartment, but the easiest way to fix the issue is by lowering the water level so that it is barely above the overflow strainer. That would likely reduce the flow of the filter, so it might be a good idea to put stainless steel mesh or something behind the strainer.


That filter compartment isn't the issue. It is the small one towards the bottom. Yes, the best idea is to block it With mesh or plastic. 

The issue with the filter in general is it is a closed unit. Doesn't remove any mulm. My canister now effectively removes the mulm. 

Lots of people enjoy modifying their specs, but I'm glad you enjoy yours the way it is. 


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## difrent7

What would be the easiest way to plug/cover the bottom intake without emptying the tank? I was planning on cutting some of the black filter foam and using some tweezers to compress it and fit it in there.


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## MABJ

difrent7 said:


> What would be the easiest way to plug/cover the bottom intake without emptying the tank? I was planning on cutting some of the black filter foam and using some tweezers to compress it and fit it in there.


Great question. I'm also going to a variation of this, myself. I haven't figured out a better solution myself, so. 

I'm not exactly sure of the design, but you may be able to just take and flip it upside down.


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## The Big Buddha

I did a reverse UGF with my spec to reduce current and so far it works very well, the gravel seems alot cleaner now.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190274&highlight=


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## tekkguy

The only modification that I've made to my Spec V was to cut a hole in the outflow line coming from the pump. That has kept the water level up higher in the pump chamber, so that my heater is properly submerged. This combined with the flow turned all the way down means that I don't have to sponge off the outflow pipe to reduce the flow.

I will also be blocking the small slit at the bottom, because it bothers me that water is bypassing the filter, and I do plan on adding some shrimp.


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## MABJ

The Big Buddha said:


> I did a reverse UGF with my spec to reduce current and so far it works very well, the gravel seems alot cleaner now.
> 
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=190274&highlight=


As I've said before, that's really neat. Glad you posted it here.


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## MABJ

tekkguy said:


> The only modification that I've made to my Spec V was to cut a hole in the outflow line coming from the pump. That has kept the water level up higher in the pump chamber, so that my heater is properly submerged. This combined with the flow turned all the way down means that I don't have to sponge off the outflow pipe to reduce the flow.
> 
> I will also be blocking the small slit at the bottom, because it bothers me that water is bypassing the filter, and I do plan on adding some shrimp.


I've heard about people cutting slits and holes in the line, so nice that you posted it working. Thanks.


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## tekkguy

MABJ said:


> I've heard about people cutting slits and holes in the line, so nice that you posted it working. Thanks.


Yeah, it actually works really well. I'd say the hole is probably ~1/4" or so. I'm using a 50W Hydor submersible heater in there (AHY00034) that fits perfectly. I could have gone with the 25W since they are exactly the same size, but I went for the 50. It's a bit overkill, but rarely cycles on.


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## MABJ

Gotcha! Well thanks. 

I decided to stop keeping a heater as mine is shrimp only, but I love that you can fit them back there.


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## Jeffww

I cut slots into the lid of my spec V so I could use a clamp on LED light...used a saw/soldering iron to melt and cut them out.


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## MABJ

Neat. I don't even use my lid on my 2g. Water disappears quick


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## tekkguy

I know that a reverse UGF was mentioned, but has anyone connected the pump outflow to a sponge filter? I was thinking that it might add another good surface for shrimp feeding, and help to keep the flow down a bit more.


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## MABJ

Do you mean a real sponge filter or just a round piece of filter wrapped around the outflow pipe?


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## tekkguy

MABJ said:


> Do you mean a real sponge filter or just a round piece of filter wrapped around the outflow pipe?


An actual sponge filter, driven by the pump instead of air.


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## MABJ

tekkguy said:


> An actual sponge filter, driven by the pump instead of air.


Oh.. Hmm. So you mean something like this hooked up 









Right?


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## tekkguy

Yes, exactly. The spec offers very little mechanical filtration. So if the biologically filtered water was driving a sponge filter, there would be more mechanical filtration and probably much happier shrimp.


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## maxwellag

tekkguy said:


> Yes, exactly. The spec offers very little mechanical filtration. So if the biologically filtered water was driving a sponge filter, there would be more mechanical filtration and probably much happier shrimp.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


The spec has that huge sponge in the filter compartment. I wouldn't call it "very little". The biomedia it comes with its plenty for shrimp (the huge sponge also holds beneficial bacteria). The only concern is aeration. This can easily be improved by aiming the filter outflow nozzle up and keeping the water level slightly lower to increase surface agitation. An airstone would also work just fine.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## MABJ

The logic is there, but I don't think there would be any more mechanical filtering. 

It would just be pushing water out of it, not be sucking water in. 

Even when a sponge has the sucking feature it is mostly biological. I don't hate the idea tho. I kinda like it.


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## MABJ

maxwellag said:


> The spec has that huge sponge in the filter compartment. I wouldn't call it "very little". The biomedia it comes with its plenty for shrimp (the huge sponge also holds beneficial bacteria). The only concern is aeration. This can easily be improved by aiming the filter outflow nozzle up and keeping the water level slightly lower to increase surface agitation. An airstone would also work just fine.
> 
> Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


There is very little mechanical, not biological filtration. I'd compare it to a very good sponge filter or a little better under gravel filter in its ability to mechanically filter. 

Aeration could use some help, you're definitely right. Here's to wondering if putting an air stone in the back compartment would help. 

Actually, I could remove the old pump, use an air pump and connect it thru the old slot. My canister filter would still pull stuff through the old filter. Hmmmm. 

How's that for an idea.


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## tekkguy

MABJ said:


> There is very little mechanical, not biological filtration. I'd compare it to a very good sponge filter or a little better under gravel filter in its ability to mechanically filter.
> 
> Aeration could use some help, you're definitely right. Here's to wondering if putting an air stone in the back compartment would help.
> 
> Actually, I could remove the old pump, use an air pump and connect it thru the old slot. My canister filter would still pull stuff through the old filter. Hmmmm.
> 
> How's that for an idea.


Sounds interesting. Take lots of pictures if you do it.


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## MABJ

I've got all the components I need, I would just need a properly fitted tube and something that fits in the spec sponge wise. Something small..


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## tekkguy

I finally got a picture of my decidedly low-tech solution to the bottom filter "intake" (read: deathtrap filter bypass of DOOM!). Since my substrate is sloped high on that side, all I needed was a little piece of plastic courtesy of a Littlest Pet Shop package from my daughter.


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## MABJ

Interesting solution! Thank you very much for posting. 

I was considering the thought of just adding substrate over it. Since in general my substrate is higher than most.


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## tekkguy

MABJ said:


> Interesting solution! Thank you very much for posting.
> 
> I was considering the thought of just adding substrate over it. Since in general my substrate is higher than most.


For some reason, I couldn't keep my substrate up over it. Probably didn't let it settle enough. I suppose I could have put more after planting, but the little plastic thing isn't really noticeable ... also, if I really, really need to open the deathtrap for some reason, it's very quick to remove and replace.


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## MABJ

tekkguy said:


> For some reason, I couldn't keep my substrate up over it. Probably didn't let it settle enough. I suppose I could have put more after planting, but the little plastic thing isn't really noticeable ... also, if I really, really need to open the deathtrap for some reason, it's very quick to remove and replace.


A very good point. I'm going to search for my own little piece of plastic!


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## Pepperhicksrules

Glad others are posting about this. I had it with that little slit on the bottom of the spec v. Always had surface film. Cut a small piece of plastic from a strawberry container and super glued it to block it entirely. 2 days now and the water is much clearer and no more surface film. I can actually see the water moving into the sponge compartment. Just a note, I have the pump at lowest setting and make sure there is plenty of water in the tank to run over the intake. Great little tank now.


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## MABJ

Thanks, pepper. I agree. I blocked mine off with plastic now as well. I like it a lot. . But I did a lot of changes to my spec.


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## tekkguy

Okay, so I had originally intended to house a betta in this tank, but it has become a shrimp-only tank. While preparing to house the betta, I did two things to reduce the flow of the pump. 

My first mod to the pump was described on page 2 - I cut a small hole in the outflow line so the water level in my pump chamber would rise and circulate since there's a heater in there.

The second was to put a Fluval Edge prefilter sponge over the outflow nozzle. 

Now that I've decided on shrimp only, I don't even need the heater, and will probably remove it at some point, although I haven't yet. 

I explained all of that to ask this question:

The filter sponge I put on the outflow is apparently full of mulm that made it through the crummy mechanical filtration of this tank. My shrimp are constantly feeding on it, and so are my pond snails. I can even hold a shrimp net in front of it and poke it with my finger to dislodge a whole bunch of nematodes, catch them, and feed them to the betta in the other room.

If I remove the filter sponge, I have nice flow in the tank and lots of surface movement. Currently, there is none and my floaters, although gathered at the filter overflow, seem to enjoy the lack of current. If I remove the sponge, will the shrimp care about the increased flow? Will the little random floaters (not even sure what species they are) care about having flow and movement on top of the tank? I am not injecting anything except liquid ferts, this is a very low-tech setup.


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## MABJ

Hey man, I never even thought that cutting the rubber tube would increase the water level in the chamber. 


I'm not sure I could call mine low tech anymore but I hear you. So I always thought that mulm was dissolving and being converted into nitrate spikes, so I wanted to get rid of it. My solution was adding a filter in the back. This could also easily be attempted with a HOB, but I used a small canister. 

I said that because the canister outflow is pretty strong. I get decent surface agitation, but I also get a lot of movement in the column. 

Long story short, my shrimp are used to it. They enjoy it as long as it isn't disturbing the bottom where they rest. In my opinion it almost makes it feel like a bigger tank to them lol. Swimming against the current.

---

With your floaters.. It depends. When I had only a few, yes they didn't multiply. 

When I covered 1/3 the tank with them, they thrived. It depends on if you can set it up so they're not disturbed too much.


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## tekkguy

I think I'm going to give it a try. I can always put th sponge back on. I just hate feeling like I'm breeding nematodes even if it is a good buffet for the shrimp. 

And yeah, cutting that hole circulates the water in the pump chamber and keeps it a bit higher. Safer for the heater and better heating in general.


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## second

What about carefully drilling a small hole in the bottom side of the plastic outflow nozzle to reduce the outward pressure? I haven't set my tank up yet but I thought of doing this just in case the flow was too strong.


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## MABJ

The flow is controllable out of the box, so before you do that, double check that the flow is stronger than you like.

In an update, I have recently decided to disconnect the tubing to the pump outflow all together. 

The pump will still pull water up, but I suspect it was pulling mulm straight through the tube and shooting it out.. 

This will also decrease the water flow a little, thankfully. 

I just need a way to plug the hole. Hmm.


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## second

Keep us posted.






MABJ said:


> The flow is controllable out of the box, so before you do that, double check that the flow is stronger than you like.
> 
> In an update, I have recently decided to disconnect the tubing to the pump outflow all together.
> 
> The pump will still pull water up, but I suspect it was pulling mulm straight through the tube and shooting it out..
> 
> This will also decrease the water flow a little, thankfully.
> 
> I just need a way to plug the hole. Hmm.


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## nwr2339

The only mod I have done is with the lighting. I left the stock led light exactly where it is but attached a Fluval Mini CF to one of the sides and more or less created a higher intensity area for different plants that need a bit more light. I plan on cutting the led after there is proof to me that those plants I have directed the light at actually start to thrive.


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## Rilly10

Has anyone else replaced the stock light? I want to but not sure which I could get that would still be useable with the lid. I have a Betta in mine and don't want him jumping out :/ I was thinking of the Finnex FugeRay 16" but not sure how to attach it.


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## tekkguy

Rilly10 said:


> Has anyone else replaced the stock light? I want to but not sure which I could get that would still be useable with the lid. I have a Betta in mine and don't want him jumping out :/ I was thinking of the Finnex FugeRay 16" but not sure how to attach it.


I responded to your question on the "other" forum along with pictures! The 16" sits on the lid over the tank section with no cutting of the lid necessary. It just sits up there.


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## MABJ

Rilly10 said:


> Has anyone else replaced the stock light? I want to but not sure which I could get that would still be useable with the lid. I have a Betta in mine and don't want him jumping out :/ I was thinking of the Finnex FugeRay 16" but not sure how to attach it.


Look for LEDs/CFLs that clamp on glass one way. You can always post a link and I can tell you.


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## MABJ

nwr2339 said:


> The only mod I have done is with the lighting. I left the stock led light exactly where it is but attached a Fluval Mini CF to one of the sides and more or less created a higher intensity area for different plants that need a bit more light. I plan on cutting the led after there is proof to me that those plants I have directed the light at actually start to thrive.


Hmm it looks a little awkward because of the tanks size. I think if you tanked the long led you wouldn't have enough light.


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## Mumford

Rilly10 said:


> Has anyone else replaced the stock light? I want to but not sure which I could get that would still be useable with the lid. I have a Betta in mine and don't want him jumping out :/ I was thinking of the Finnex FugeRay 16" but not sure how to attach it.


I too can vouch for the 16"

It is just placed on the edges of the tank. The clear screws are extended out a tiny bit and it's a near perfect fit 


- Mumford


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## blink

I don't really have any mods to the tank but I've been using a Marineland 18" doublebright for the light and it's been pretty good.
I've been using the tank primarily as a quarantine tank and just have some nasty hornwort and duckweed floating around on the surface and I've got to yank a handful of hornwort out every 2-3 weeks so the light is obviously doing some good.


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## MABJ

That's too bad! You should set it up with a nice scape.


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## sourgrl

The only mod I've made. A small strip of plastic craft mesh wedged into the slot where the light meets the aquarium. No more droopy light.


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## MABJ

It counts ^^ nice work


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## Psycofc1

Anyone had an issue with leaks from the corners?


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## MABJ

I personally have not. I've heard of others having some issues.


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## natiedean24

Great ideas from everyone - thanks. 

I got a spec V that I'm going to build after Christmas with my boys. Based on ideas here I've already put aquarium silicone in place to seal up the slot between the main tank and the filter section. 

Question: should I also seal up the slot between the filter and pump sections (slot near the top)? What is this for? I figured as a safety to get water to the pump if the filter media is clogged.


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## MABJ

natiedean24 said:


> Great ideas from everyone - thanks.
> 
> I got a spec V that I'm going to build after Christmas with my boys. Based on ideas here I've already put aquarium silicone in place to seal up the slot between the main tank and the filter section.
> 
> Question: should I also seal up the slot between the filter and pump sections (slot near the top)? What is this for? I figured as a safety to get water to the pump if the filter media is clogged.


What slot are you referencing? Maybe take a pic and link it. If you're talking about the grate leading up to the media, that is for water to cross through.


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## natiedean24

Here is a picture - I'm asking about the slot on the left side of the picture. This is the panel that divides pump section from the filter media section.


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## MABJ

Oh wow I actually don't know what that is. It isn't on my Spec II. With the filter media, where's it come up to on there?


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## natiedean24

This slot comes just below the top of the filter media. I think it's slightly below the level of the overflow grates. 

I already filled it in with sealant - easy to do before I fill it. If I decide I want it open I can always just poke it out. This slot would allow water to bypass the filter - I want to force it all through the filter from the top. 

I was playing around with fitting the Hydor Theo heater in there with the pump last night. Tight squeeze! Not sure I will ever get it installed with the suction cups - heater might just have to hang there.


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## MABJ

Is your tank just for shrimp or fish?

If shrimp, you may not need a heater. 

In either case, you should read up on how to cycle a tank before purchasing any livestock.


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## natiedean24

Gonna have fish too. Thanks for the PSA on cycling.


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## MABJ

natiedean24 said:


> Gonna have fish too. Thanks for the PSA on cycling.


Haha no problem. I always say it to everybody. Nothing personal


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## Ghostryder

natiedean24 said:


> I was playing around with fitting the Hydor Theo heater in there with the pump last night. Tight squeeze! Not sure I will ever get it installed with the suction cups - heater might just have to hang there.


Don't bother. There's not enough room for the suction cups and they don't stay attached to the frosted glass or the plastic divider wall. IME.


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## MABJ

Ghostryder said:


> Don't bother. There's not enough room for the suction cups and they don't stay attached to the frosted glass or the plastic divider wall. IME.


Thought you were referencing a different part of the tank. Yeah I agree there's no room in the back compartment. When I had a heater I removed all the rubber bits.


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## Deano85

Does anyone know what size screw to use for the light?


----------



## MABJ

It uses two different types of screws, not including the plastic bolt that clamps onto the back glass.


----------



## Deano85

Yes, I'm referring to the plastic bolt.


----------



## MABJ

Ah. I couldn't tell you the specs on it. I could show you a picture if it would help you though.


----------



## Deano85

I found that an M5 metric bolt worked the best for me.


----------



## Deflected

I did a light mod with two sections of LED strip lights taped under the stock light fixture. The colors can be changed by remote. The LEDs doubled the light in the tank.


----------



## jrh

Courtesy of h4n, a Spec V shrimplet filter guard.










snail not included.

The top part could be painted black (krylon fusion), but I'm sitting right next to my tank, and I can't see it, so I'm going to leave mine as is.


----------



## natiedean24

Cool! What is the material and where did you get it?


----------



## jrh

Send h4n a pm.


----------



## Randizzzle

Don't mean to beat a dead horse about this...

It's about that small slit below the middle of the black plastic separator. 

I've had my fluval spec V for about 2 weeks now and the first thing I did after perusing reviews/mods was to plug that slit with silicon. So I did, and I really can't say that inflow is improved. It makes sense, that water would therefore flow in from the top vented section and then down, but water is pretty stagnant up in that section. 





















One more thing..

The pump placement. Per the instruction manual, it says to position the pump so that the intake is against the black plastic. Originally I had it rotated clockwise 90 degrees (looking from the top) because it made sense to me to have the pump intake closest to the sponge and not pushed up against a wall basically. In the end, I changed it back to what the instruction manual said because I thought Fluval did their research and should know best.

So just curious, how's your guys' placement of the pump? Did you follow the instructions or turn it? Also thoughts on siliconing/covering up the small slit halfway down? Help with flow or not? 

Hopefully we can all help make this tank the most efficient it can be!


----------



## Steindler63

MABJ said:


> That filter compartment isn't the issue. It is the small one towards the bottom. Yes, the best idea is to block it With mesh or plastic.


Fluval Spec V

I stuck a rubber strip into the slot. Not a problem for about a week so far. Better flow from the top. The slit is only required if the water level goes below the intake slots on top. The motor will still get water from the slot on the bottom.

The lighting sucks also. I bought a Marineland 17 in LED. Fits nicely on top of the plastic cover. Brightens the place up. May get another one for the back side.


----------



## Steindler63

jrh said:


> Courtesy of h4n, a Spec V shrimplet filter guard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snail not included.
> 
> The top part could be painted black (krylon fusion), but I'm sitting right next to my tank, and I can't see it, so I'm going to leave mine as is.


Looks good. I'm going to use this idea since I have a couple of berried females already. A friend of mine says baby shrimp go into those slots, eat and come back out. Is that a metal mesh? Does it go all the way down past bottom slot?


----------



## Steindler63

Randizzzle said:


> One more thing..
> 
> The pump placement. Per the instruction manual, it says to position the pump so that the intake is against the black plastic. Originally I had it rotated clockwise 90 degrees (looking from the top) because it made sense to me to have the pump intake closest to the sponge and not pushed up against a wall basically. In the end, I changed it back to what the instruction manual said because I thought Fluval did their research and should know best.


I also turned my pump where the intake faces the sponge. I'd like to hear opinions/thoughts on this. It made sense to me, I guess.


----------



## dru

Bumping this thread with a question.

I have the mini jet 606 pump after my stock one burned out. 

I am curious if anyone has had success in diffusing co2 in the the pump side of the return chamber? I am considering cutting a slot or hole in the pump output hose but I don't know how efficient this method would be. Currently the flow in the tank is a little high so this could be a two birds situation. 

Any suggestions?


----------



## frankiefire702

jrh said:


> Courtesy of h4n, a Spec V shrimplet filter guard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snail not included.
> 
> The top part could be painted black (krylon fusion), but I'm sitting right next to my tank, and I can't see it, so I'm going to leave mine as is.


 I have a few berried females in my tank now. Can anyone tell me what size stainless mesh this is and where I could order online?


----------



## jamesyu

I'm going to be doing something like the above picture too -- once i get a handle on things I'll post my specs and where to pick up the equipment. it'll probably cost you 5 bucks to get. but if I make some i'll ROAK it just have to pay shipping.


----------



## kman

frankiefire702 said:


> I have a few berried females in my tank now. Can anyone tell me what size stainless mesh this is and where I could order online?


You can buy it here from user h4n just send him a PM or look for his for sale threads in the sales forums

Edit: Here is one of his threads re filter intake guards, he can sell the same stuff for the intake grill mod:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=496257


----------



## Lowcountry

I recently cut a hole in the pump output tube. About half up, approx 1/8" diameter, and facing the heater. It has really helped with circulation and really helps distribute the heated water a lot better. 
My spec used to hover around 73*. Now, it's right at78*--without adjusting anything.


----------



## Clasman

Anyone had a problem seeding there filter on a fluval spec v, 7'weeks down the line I am still getting high ammonia levels, 0 nitrite ,0 nitrate, for last 3 weeks pump been on high, but I don't think it's pulling down through the sponge and bio media , I have not. Blocked the small slit at the bottom, also water in pump chamber looks stagnant, there's also a sideways slit between sponge chamber and pump chamber, could between the two of these the media not getting water pulled through and killing of the bacteria, I did place some seeded floss from my big tank,


----------



## bizzle

I replaced the stock light on my Spec v with a Finnex planted + and switched out the sponge filter for a 3 section media basket made for the spec line and it works amazingly.


----------



## Steindler63

Clasman said:


> Anyone had a problem seeding there filter on a fluval spec v, 7'weeks down the line I am still getting high ammonia levels, 0 nitrite ,0 nitrate, for last 3 weeks pump been on high, but I don't think it's pulling down through the sponge and bio media , I have not. Blocked the small slit at the bottom, also water in pump chamber looks stagnant, there's also a sideways slit between sponge chamber and pump chamber, could between the two of these the media not getting water pulled through and killing of the bacteria, I did place some seeded floss from my big tank,


Which way is your out nozzle pointed? Point it up to get the most turbulence. I plugged the bottom slit because I didn't want little shrimplets getting in there. Probably wouldn't be a good idea to plug the slit between sponge and the small compartment. I'd imagine water wouldn't circulate in there. If you look down on the sponge, do you see water circulating?

Besides the floss, have you added any food, ammonia to the tank for the bacteria to eat? Any fish in there?


----------



## Clasman

Have 5 endlers who now have 4 fry different females, had these in from start , so seeded the spec foam with colonised filter floss from my 125 litre tank, feed accordingly for the endlers, but now 6 weeks on still no drop in ammonia, or rise in nitrite or nitrate, even with all the water changes ammonia levels with the api test show 2 to 4 parts p m, never had such non seeding , pump now on high for few weeks , output nozzle is pointing up and towards front glass, but has a ring of coarse filter foam to diffuse the flow apart from the edge which moves the surface water just enough, in the fiter there is a slight swirl , but in the small chamber it looks. Stagnant but water does flow through the slit between chambers, any ideas


----------



## MABJ

Clasman pictures would be great. Where did you put your seeding material? I'd have you close the fail safe hole at the bottom first in order to get flow going at the top.


----------



## grammaknits02

I just set up a Fluval Spec V for blue velvet shrimp. Sitting at work today I got to thinking about ways that I could add my own media, as I would like to fill up with Seachem Matrix. I found a media basket online that is made specifically for the Fluval Spec, but it's 40.00!!! Way to expensive! So I pondered all afternoon and I think I've come up with a plan. When I get off work this evening I'm going to stop at Michael's and buy some of that plastic mesh that people use for crafts and cut that into the proper sizes to build a basket, then clip it together with plastic zipties. Anybody here have any thoughts as to why that wouldn't work as a media basket? I was thinking I would put some filter floss on the bottom, then my matrix and then top it off with a prefilter sponge.


----------



## Steindler63

grammaknits02 said:


> I found a media basket online that is made specifically for the Fluval Spec, but it's 40.00!!!



I bought one of those baskets even though I felt it was too expensive also. I couldn't be happier. So much room for media! The only mod is a small plastic wedge I stick between the top/back of the basket to keep the basket pushed against the intake grate so my babies dont get lost in there. I also have sponge media on top and sides. They like to go in, snack and come back out. No where else to fit.

I'm not sure how the craft material you mentioned is but make sure it's sturdy enough.

regards,
Pete


----------



## BuddhaBoy

I put a bag of purigen into the filter compartment and then put the filter bag in. The height of the filter now blocks the slits with the sponge.

I also did the lid mod to fit my finnex 18 inch and cut holes into the return line to reduce flow rate


----------



## MABJ

Thanks for the replies guys


----------



## grammaknits02

Yes...Thank you for the replies and for the great idea of wedging something behind the basket to keep the babies in! I'm going to do that as well. The plastic mesh is pretty sturdy...it will work well for what I want it to do. In a while I will post a pic of my new little tank.


----------



## MABJ

Definitely post that pic. Welcome to TPT. Yeah I used plastic mesh


----------



## MABJ

Has anybody here upgraded their lights? If so, PM me, I'd be interested in buying your stock light.


----------



## Zellner

Just wanted to post how I plugged the hole at the bottom of the filter compartment. It was easy and can be done with water in the tank, which was the most important factor to me. I just cut a piece of electrical tape bigger than the hole itself and stuck it on the water colum side, yes it still sticks once it's wet. Barely visible, easy and cost effective.

Also I remember seeing a mod someone did with the stock light fixture. They made the day and night time blue leds come on at the same time, anyone have any info on that?


----------



## MABJ

I don't know much about the spec V lighting, but that seems like a simple wiring fix. Make the switch open the circuit for both, get both on.


----------



## Jack Gilvey

Hey all,

I've had a couple Specs and love the look and form-factor but have always found myself wanting to tweak/mod the filtration. So, I finally decided to ditch the whole filter and go with a mattenfilter since I've been so happy with one (and Poret foam filters in general) in my main tank. The stock filter was very easy to remove - just silicone which cleaned up nicely with a razor blade. I used 1" 30ppi Poret and a small Jetlifter from swisstropicals.com, and I cut off the very bottom of the stock filter to use as a "gravel-guard" at the base of the foam.

I have the front edge of the foam lined up with the frosted glass edge, and a Hydor Theo fits nicely as does the stock top. The foam is cut just slightly wider than the tank and stays in place by itself. 1" Poret works ok in this tank as it's only 7" wide or so, but in a larger tank the 2" foam is much more stable. 

Also, I really like these Jetlifters, but there's no reason you couldn't still use the stock Fluval pump and tubing - might need a little more room behind. Just make a small "x" in the foam with a knife and push the nozzle through for a tight fit, like I did with the Jetlifter. 


























Not sure what I'll use it for, yet!


----------



## jbrady33

How did I miss this thread all this time? 

Here are mine, all on a Spec V:

Lighting - force the stock light to have blue & white on together:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=469633

Wood base and 'hood' with glass lighting window
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4721185


Don't have the tank anymore, one to many to take care of, RAOK'd it off to a fellow member here at TPT


----------



## MABJ

Jack Gilvey said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I've had a couple Specs and love the look and form-factor but have always found myself wanting to tweak/mod the filtration. So, I finally decided to ditch the whole filter and go with a mattenfilter since I've been so happy with one (and Poret foam filters in general) in my main tank. The stock filter was very easy to remove - just silicone which cleaned up nicely with a razor blade. I used 1" 30ppi Poret and a small Jetlifter from swisstropicals.com, and I cut off the very bottom of the stock filter to use as a "gravel-guard" at the base of the foam.
> 
> I have the front edge of the foam lined up with the frosted glass edge, and a Hydor Theo fits nicely as does the stock top. The foam is cut just slightly wider than the tank and stays in place by itself. 1" Poret works ok in this tank as it's only 7" wide or so, but in a larger tank the 2" foam is much more stable.
> 
> Also, I really like these Jetlifters, but there's no reason you couldn't still use the stock Fluval pump and tubing - might need a little more room behind. Just make a small "x" in the foam with a knife and push the nozzle through for a tight fit, like I did with the Jetlifter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure what I'll use it for, yet!


Thanks man. I think some people will definitely find a use for this.


----------



## MABJ

jbrady33 said:


> How did I miss this thread all this time?
> 
> Here are mine, all on a Spec V:
> 
> Lighting - force the stock light to have blue & white on together:
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=469633
> 
> Wood base and 'hood' with glass lighting window
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4721185
> 
> 
> Don't have the tank anymore, one to many to take care of, RAOK'd it off to a fellow member here at TPT


That's a knockout spec. Nice woodwork.


----------



## ErtyJr

Hi I have a very simple mod that has worked wonderfully for my spec v. I replaced the lighting and now have very high lighting enough that my dwarf hairgrass is shooting off runners everywhere.

I went to home depot, bought a plain desk lamp, and then bought this 65 watt cree daylight floodlight bulb. Here is the link to it.

http://www.houzz.com/photos/5384684/Cree-95-Watt-65W-Daylight-5000K-BR30-Dimmable-LED-Flood-Light-Bulb-BBR30-06-contemporary-light-bulbs

It is important to note that you Must use a bulb rated "daylight" it has the ideal spectrum.

I also bought some 1/2" pvc and fittings made by "sharkbite" from home depot and created a spray bar. The fitting was not a perfect fit I had to trim and sand down the elbow to get it to go into the piece the nozzel normal goes into. Then I had no surface tension so I drilled a 1/4" hole in the top to spray water at the surface. It is working well, but was still too powerful for my small apistogramma fry so I then used silicone on the inside of the elbow and blocked half the fitting. Since then it has been at a very good level. I then sprayed it black. Here is a picture...









And here is the whole tank. I adjusted the contrast a bit because the light is very very bright.


----------



## MABJ

ErtyJr said:


> Hi I have a very simple mod that has worked wonderfully for my spec v. I replaced the lighting and now have very high lighting enough that my dwarf hairgrass is shooting off runners everywhere.
> 
> I went to home depot, bought a plain desk lamp, and then bought this 65 watt cree daylight floodlight bulb. Here is the link to it.
> 
> http://www.houzz.com/photos/5384684...-Light-Bulb-BBR30-06-contemporary-light-bulbs
> 
> It is important to note that you Must use a bulb rated "daylight" it has the ideal spectrum.
> 
> I also bought some 1/2" pvc and fittings made by "sharkbite" from home depot and created a spray bar. The fitting was not a perfect fit I had to trim and sand down the elbow to get it to go into the piece the nozzel normal goes into. Then I had no surface tension so I drilled a 1/4" hole in the top to spray water at the surface. It is working well, but was still too powerful for my small apistogramma fry so I then used silicone on the inside of the elbow and blocked half the fitting. Since then it has been at a very good level. I then sprayed it black. Here is a picture...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here is the whole tank. I adjusted the contrast a bit because the light is very very bright.


Your light might be a bit strong, but nice spray bar!


----------



## Jack Gilvey

jbrady33 said:


> How did I miss this thread all this time?
> 
> Here are mine, all on a Spec V:
> 
> Lighting - force the stock light to have blue & white on together:
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=469633
> 
> Wood base and 'hood' with glass lighting window
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4721185
> 
> 
> Don't have the tank anymore, one to many to take care of, RAOK'd it off to a fellow member here at TPT


 Totally bad*ss, takes the look to another level.


----------



## ErtyJr

Hey this is such an immensely useful post, is there any way we could get this stickied somewhere. There is a lot of info I would like to come back to later, as I'm sure others would.


----------



## MABJ

ErtyJr said:


> Hey this is such an immensely useful post, is there any way we could get this stickied somewhere. There is a lot of info I would like to come back to later, as I'm sure others would.



Definitely PM a mod like Somewhatshocked if you'd like to see it stickied. 

I would say until such a time exists I'd email it to yourself or subscribe to it so you will always have it in your history somewhere.


----------



## snowaaron

Just wanted to stop in and say thanks for this thread. New to the Spec V and lots of good info in here. List of what I've done and pics:

1. Added Purigen bag under filter housing to push coarse sponge up and restrict some of the flow from the lower inlet.

2. Added hole to outlet hose based on some of the benefits mentioned here in thread.

3. Upgraded to Satellite Current LED+ and really love it, its sleek and looks like it belongs. Though, it's powerful enough that I fear I will be forced to move to co2 in order to ward off algae.

4. Bought Flourish Excel and Flourish but have not dosed yet.

Pics - http://imgur.com/a/m8kdR


----------



## NickHughes

I have been reading these threads since before I bought my Spec V, and have come across the same issues with losing my shrimp to the filter – luckily, I have always found my baby shrimp alive at the bottom of the filter. 

I made this account to share what I did to fix my problem – So hopefully it helps. 

I bought some aquarium silicone and stuck a ‘hose washer with screen’ over the intake slot. I have the same intake speed, but don’t have to worry about shrimp getting in. The fish eat whatever gets stuck to the screen (which is usually nothing). 

These are the types of filters you buy at a hardware store to install in a garden hose.

Works great. 

I originally held it in place with a rock – but the aquarium silicone made life a lot easier.


----------



## Dawagner

Zellner said:


> Just wanted to post how I plugged the hole at the bottom of the filter compartment. It was easy and can be done with water in the tank, which was the most important factor to me. I just cut a piece of electrical tape bigger than the hole itself and stuck it on the water colum side, yes it still sticks once it's wet. Barely visible, easy and cost effective.
> 
> Also I remember seeing a mod someone did with the stock light fixture. They made the day and night time blue leds come on at the same time, anyone have any info on that?


Does anyone see any potential issues with the adhesive on the electrical tape leaching anything? If not this is by far the easiest solution.


----------



## mproia

*FugeRay Planted+ LED Fixture: 20"*

Hi All,

Here are some reference pics of my FugeRay Planted+ LED Fixture: 20" on my Spec V.


----------



## mesohorny

I just have some very minor mods ...

cut holes in the standpipe coming from the pump to circulate water in the chamber that also houses a small fluval heater and plugged the lower hole draining into the filter with electrical tape to increase skimming. I also replaced original filter media by stuffing the drip chamber with hella biomax, layered with a cutting of the original filter foam, and topped her off with filter floss in the hopes that any li'l shrimp that find their way in there can easily find it back out.

... and of course replaced the stock light with a fluval eco bright I found on super clearance.

now I just need to add the shrimp!


----------



## mproia

Mesohorny, What type of Fluval heater do you use? Does it fit easily in the chamber?


----------



## mesohorny

mproia said:


> Mesohorny, What type of Fluval heater do you use? Does it fit easily in the chamber?


 
sorry, I lied; it's actually a Marina mini heater 17w. no frills, but it works. it fits with room to spare.


----------



## kman

mesohorny said:


> I just have some very minor mods ...
> 
> cut holes in the standpipe coming from the pump to circulate water in the chamber that also houses a small fluval heater and plugged the lower hole draining into the filter with electrical tape to increase skimming. I also replaced original filter media by stuffing the drip chamber with hella biomax, layered with a cutting of the original filter foam, and topped her off with filter floss in the hopes that any li'l shrimp that find their way in there can easily find it back out.
> 
> ... and of course replaced the stock light with a fluval eco bright I found on super clearance.
> 
> now I just need to add the shrimp!


Looking very nice! I can't wait to get mine up and running. Waiting for a tank to cycle blows...

I'm going to add fine SS mesh over the intake(s) to keep the shrimp out, like the guy in post 81 (see pg 6) (plus more mesh to cover the bottom intake).

I'd buy an evilBay skimmer cover to increase skimming, but from what I understand, shrimp actually love that biofilm as a food source (especially babies) so it's probably a good thing to leave it alone.

I'm going to replace the stock light with the 18" Current USA Sat+, which I already have a timer/controller for.

I crammed a 50W Cobalt Aquatics NeoTherm into the pump compartment while it cycles, so I'm all set there.


----------



## dru

mesohorny said:


> I just have some very minor mods ...
> 
> cut holes in the standpipe coming from the pump to circulate water in the chamber that also houses a small fluval heater and plugged the lower hole draining into the filter with electrical tape to increase skimming. I also replaced original filter media by stuffing the drip chamber with hella biomax, layered with a cutting of the original filter foam, and topped her off with filter floss in the hopes that any li'l shrimp that find their way in there can easily find it back out.
> 
> ... and of course replaced the stock light with a fluval eco bright I found on super clearance.
> 
> now I just need to add the shrimp!


Nice driftwood


----------



## mesohorny

dru said:


> Nice driftwood


thanks! 2 pieces I had no love for that actually came together nicely in this one. just goes to show if you flip it around and stare at it enough, you may eventually find a good look.



kman said:


> Looking very nice!
> 
> ... but from what I understand, shrimp actually love that biofilm as a food source (especially babies) so it's probably a good thing to leave it alone.


thanks k! I didn't know that about the bio film up until now. researching it a little bit, it seems I might be doing myself--and my eventual shrimp fry--a disservice by plugging that drain hole lower down. as it sits under the substrate anyway, and presumably wouldn't be a danger to fry, I may have to open it back up. thanks for the tip!


----------



## kman

mesohorny said:


> thanks k! I didn't know that about the bio film up until now. researching it a little bit, it seems I might be doing myself--and my eventual shrimp fry--a disservice by plugging that drain hole lower down. as it sits under the substrate anyway, and presumably wouldn't be a danger to fry, I may have to open it back up. thanks for the tip!


The lower hole is there as a backup, in case the water level drops below the level of the top overflow grate, so the pump doesn't drain the compartment dry and then burn itself out (and your heater). It's not a danger to adult fish at all, but it IS dangerous to tiny critters like fry or juvie shrimp.

Rather plan plug it, I would buy a little piece of stainless steel mesh and put it behind the "wall". The sponge will hold it in place by friction, or technically you could simply hot glue, super glue, or silicon it in place. That will let water through but stop any tiny critters from getting through. See post 81 (at pg 6) for the type of SS mesh I'm referring to.


----------



## MoreyFan

mesohorny said:


> thanks k! I didn't know that about the bio film up until now. researching it a little bit, it seems I might be doing myself--and my eventual shrimp fry--a disservice by plugging that drain hole lower down. as it sits under the substrate anyway, and presumably wouldn't be a danger to fry, I may have to open it back up. thanks for the tip!


sits below the substrate? The more clogged and restricted the main filter path gets over the lifetime of the tank, the more flow the small hole gets. The more flow the small hole gets, the more crap that gets sucked through it. Your pump sits on the bottom of the tank and gets clogged with anything on the bottom.


----------



## kman

MoreyFan said:


> sits below the substrate? The more clogged and restricted the main filter path gets over the lifetime of the tank, the more flow the small hole gets. The more flow the small hole gets, the more crap that gets sucked through it. Your pump sits on the bottom of the tank and gets clogged with anything on the bottom.


All the more reason to simply put a pre-filter screen over it.


----------



## MoreyFan

kman said:


> All the more reason to simply put a pre-filter screen over it.


Unlike the overflow, junk can just get sucked through the hole. I didn't block mine but put really fine polyester screen over it. Have a ton of broken down substrate in the back section now. Unless you go weeks without looking at the tank the hole is worthless. It is for people who don't understand why/how to keep the water level up.


----------



## kman

MoreyFan said:


> Unlike the overflow, junk can just get sucked through the hole. I didn't block mine but put really fine polyester screen over it. Have a ton of broken down substrate in the back section now. Unless you go weeks without looking at the tank the hole is worthless. It is for people who don't understand why/how to keep the water level up.


"Junk" can go through anything, unless there is a screen. Some broken substrate (that must not be very much of a screen, unless you pretty much mean dust) on the bottom, below the sponge and below the hole that connects to the pump chamber isn't going to hurt anything. Just clean it out, if it bothers you, at the same time you clean the sponge itself.


----------



## mesohorny

to plug or not to plug ... quite the delicate conundrum.


----------



## dru

My pump burned out even with the hole open


----------



## kman

mesohorny said:


> to plug or not to plug ... quite the delicate conundrum.


I see it as a safety feature purposely added by the manufacturer for a legitimate reason. Adding a good screen allows it to work while keeping the most things you don't want to get through, through, rather than stopping it up and preventing it from doing it's job.

It's your tank, of course, so listen to the various opinions and then just decide which makes the most sense to you. Either way the tank is likely to be fine, considering there are plenty of people using it both ways.


----------



## MoreyFan

kman said:


> "Junk" can go through anything, unless there is a screen. Some broken substrate (that must not be very much of a screen, unless you pretty much mean dust) on the bottom, below the sponge and below the hole that connects to the pump chamber isn't going to hurt anything. Just clean it out, if it bothers you, at the same time you clean the sponge itself.


I have dishonored myself with subpar screen construction. :icon_redf I have pulled large bits from the grill of the pump but I now see it was my fault and not the hole under the substrate that bypasses 95% of the filter.


----------



## kman

MoreyFan said:


> I have dishonored myself with subpar screen construction. :icon_redf I have pulled large bits from the grill of the pump but I now see it was my fault and not the hole under the substrate that bypasses 95% of the filter.


LOL dude, do what you want with your tank.  If you're going to plug the hole, your problem seems solved, else a finer grade screen the no large particles can pass seems like a logical solution.


----------



## mesohorny

kman said:


> I see it as a safety feature purposely added by the manufacturer for a legitimate reason. Adding a good screen allows it to work while keeping the most things you don't want to get through, through, rather than stopping it up and preventing it from doing it's job.
> 
> It's your tank, of course, so listen to the various opinions and then just decide which makes the most sense to you. Either way the tank is likely to be fine, considering there are plenty of people using it both ways.


no, I think you may have convinced me to unplug it and install some sort of plumbing screen instead. I just wanted to crack wise about this heated debate.


----------



## kman

mesohorny said:


> no, I think you may have convinced me to unplug it and install some sort of plumbing screen instead. I just wanted to crack wise about this heated debate.


Cool. 

I like either the "hose washer with screen" that was used in post 117 (see page 8), or the fine SS mesh that I linked a few posts back. I actually really like that hose washer (plus, readily available and cheap!), if I could find one with a black washer instead of white, I'd probably go that route, but for aesthetic reasons I'll likely go with the mesh behind the filter wall.

My Spec 2's lower intake has never been a problem in the stock configuration, and my Spec V is still cycling with very little in the tank, so I have some time before making a final call. But my SS mesh from Han is en route anyway.


----------



## Technik

does anyone have a lead on stainless mesh like the one used in the guard made by h4n? i was just going to put polishing pads beneath the sponge to elevate it to the height of the water to not loose anything on top of the water


----------



## dru

Is anyone running a replacement pump, and if so what type?

I have a Mini-jet 606 but it is rattling and driving me crazy


----------



## Technik

jrh said:


> Courtesy of h4n, a Spec V shrimplet filter guard.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> snail not included.
> 
> The top part could be painted black (krylon fusion), but I'm sitting right next to my tank, and I can't see it, so I'm going to leave mine as is.


any idea what the size of this might be?


----------



## kman

Technik said:


> any idea what the size of this might be?


I ordered the 2" x 4" one for my Spec V.


----------



## Zorion825

dru said:


> Is anyone running a replacement pump, and if so what type?
> 
> I have a Mini-jet 606 but it is rattling and driving me crazy


I'd love an answer to that as well. Now that the 606 is discontinued, I've been looking for a good alternative to upgrade the pump.


----------



## natiedean24

Technik said:


> does anyone have a lead on stainless mesh like the one used in the guard made by h4n? i was just going to put polishing pads beneath the sponge to elevate it to the height of the water to not loose anything on top of the water


I sourced some from amazon for a decent price. Not sure what size mesh H4N is using, but I used 20 mesh. I have a short page detailing how I did made the stainless mesh overflow cover here.


----------



## The Big Buddha

I just cut a piece of filter foam the same length and width of the stock foam at about 2" high, to fill the remaining void above the stock foam. Just stuff it in there on top of the stock one and problem solved. You can also just raise the stock foam above the water line for the same effect.


----------



## dru

Has anyone sourced the soft flexible tubing that connects to the pump?


----------



## natiedean24

dru said:


> Has anyone sourced the soft flexible tubing that connects to the pump?



I'm trying to figure that out. I got some 1/2" ID silicone hose from Amazon. It will work but it seems just slightly larger than the stock part. I have a question in to Hagen and I will see what they say. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## wheels0417

Has anyone had any trouble with fish jumping out of the hole in the lid? I am considering marble hatchetfish since they are smaller and heard they can jump. Just seeing if they should be fine or if I should get some plastic to cover up the top.


----------



## Biznatch

wheels0417 said:


> Has anyone had any trouble with fish jumping out of the hole in the lid? I am considering marble hatchetfish since they are smaller and heard they can jump. Just seeing if they should be fine or if I should get some plastic to cover up the top.



I have clown Killis with no issues, and they are also supposed to be jumpers. It would be pretty hard to make it out the hole and miss the light.


----------



## BlackThumb

My betta managed to leap through the small hole on a Spec II about a month ago... He will splash the surface if I leave the light on too long (letting me know it's time for lights-out). That time I think he misjudged and jumped straight out. Luckily I was sitting nearby and scooped him back into the tank right away and he made it. 

I have a spec V I'll be setting up soon. That light sits a lot closer to the opening so probably harder for fish to jump, but just letting you know it could be possible.


----------



## Daisy Mae

Zellner said:


> Just wanted to post how I plugged the hole at the bottom of the filter compartment. It was easy and can be done with water in the tank, which was the most important factor to me. I just cut a piece of electrical tape bigger than the hole itself and stuck it on the water colum side, yes it still sticks once it's wet. Barely visible, easy and cost effective.


I'm going to have to try this. I saw shrimp babies in the pump compartment of my Spec 3. I thought the sponge filter was tight enough against the hole (wedged with a piece of plastic) but obviously it was not.


----------



## sockfish

This is a great thread, thanks to all the contributors. I've been thinking about how to mod this for a Betta and I see some of the things I thought up mentioned here as workable. Might just use my 20% Petco coupon and try this tank.


----------



## The_guad

I created a third chamber in the filter compartment of my spec III. Now, I have a middle compartment that the water flows up through, past my mini heater and then over and down to the pump. The temperature in my tank is now very stable at 80 degrees with a 10w betta heater where I could never get it to change with a 25w heater.

Here are the materials I used:
1 x Dollar store cutting board (thin and stiff)
1 x Silicone airline tubing (I bought 8ft but only needed 17")
1 x hot glue stick and hot glue gun

First, measure your space to determine how wide and tall the divider needs to be. Mine was about 2 1/32"w x 7"h. The height was determined by the lowest point in my filter intake grill and just a bit shorter to make sure there will always be flow so long as water is coming in to the filter. The width was determined by the piece needing to be close to snug but still having about 1/16" of space for the airline tube (gasket) to make it water tight. After you make your first cut, dry fit. If it is too big, cut again and dry fit again. If it is now snug but not tight, proceed to the gasket.

Second, cut one piece of airline tube that will go the width of your divider piece. Split it down the middle and place it on the bottom of your divider. Glue it on with the hot glue.

Third, cut 2 pieces of airline tube to 7" minus a bit to account for the airline tube that is already on the bottom. Split them down the middle and slide on both sides but DO NOT GLUE YET. Now dry fit again.

If the divider doesn't slide in snug, pull the side gasket line off and cut a small amount from the divider (you can't put material back on... go slowly). Put the side gasket back on and do it again. Dry fit, dry fit, dry fit. 

Once everything is the way you like it, hot glue the side gaskets on and slide it in. Place your heater in the center of the three compartments so water is forced to flow up past it before going over and down into the pump compartment on the opposite side of the filter chamber.


----------



## brandonhauser

*Overflow/Protein Skimmer*

Hey everyone!

Been testing this mod for the past few days and have to share it with you all. I recently noticed the formation of a film on the surface of my fluval spec iii, so I set out to fix the problem. I went online and researched solutions, eventually deciding to order an inTank protein skimmer. IME it did help some, but the top of the water was not crystal clear like I was looking for. Feeling diy, I went to my local hardware store and bought a black paint tray (the ones you use with a roller brush). This was perfect because the material (Polyethylene Terephthalate) would be aquarium safe and the shape of the paint tray would later prove to be perfect for my application.

*Process*
The idea was to create something similar to the inTank skimmer, but mine would cover all of the grills instead of leaving open gaps on the sides (which shrimp can get sucked in to!). With the paint tray in hand, I cut a flat rectangle out of the bottom and zip tied it over the spec's intake grill. A little while later, I looked back to see how the skimmer was doing and... nothing was flowing over it! :| The surface tension of the water was too great and the water was simply taking the path of least resistance and going through the vent at the bottom of the tank (you all know the hole I'm talking about). So I plugged up that hole and set out on my next and final design. This design utilized the shape of the paint tray more, taking advantage of its sides which had ridges and curves.

















Maybe it because I plugged up the bottom "vent" hole this time, but the new design worked! The top of the water is now free from any and all scum. And I have the added bonus of a consistent water level in the front of the tank, with only the level in the back compartment fluctuating (make sure to top off back there on occasion or you risk damaging your pump! I hope I did a good job explaining this, it's quite a hard process to put into words. :iamwithst For anyone looking to buy the same paint tray as me, I got it from Ace Hardware. And for those of you who are eyeballing my beard moss :grin2: i'm still cycling the tank, it should be clearing up soon!


----------



## Bebbie

Hi, great forum/thread. Read all your suggestions on modifying fluval tanks. Great ideas. I've just removed the plastic section from my Fluval Spec thanks to the wonderful video I found on Youtube. No more filter problems.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgk_EVXxCP0


----------



## Hunter73

Lots of good mods in this thread. Thanks to everyone who has contributed. Has anyone came up with a mod for the lid? I can't stand how it fits with power cords under it.


----------



## Hunter73

Hunter73 said:


> Lots of good mods in this thread. Thanks to everyone who has contributed. Has anyone came up with a mod for the lid? I can't stand how it fits with power cords under it.


No replies?


----------



## Tavyn

*I just used some filter foam.*

I just cut a square block of filter foam and put it underneath the stock foam on my spec 3. It raised the stock filter foam up so the small bottom hole is blocked by the foam and the foam also is now high enough to block about half of the intake grate at the top. Should keep shrimp fry safe and only slows the flow a little bit.

Is there a problem doing it this way? Seems a simple solution and im surprised more people havent done the same thing.


----------



## Steindler63

Hunter73 said:


> No replies?


I cut parts of the lid so I can run the cords. Not great cuts but it works and the lid stays flat.


----------



## BK-201

*Fluval Spec 3 Beefed Up Filtration*

Hi everyone I'm new to The Planted tank Community and new to planted tanks in general but I would like to share my mods to my Fluval Spec 3! :laugh2: :laugh2:.

So far I've;

- Covered both overflow slits with small pieces of plastic and silicone
- Replaced the stock pump with the Hydor Centrifugal Pump 70
- Replaced the stock sponge filter with a 4 tier egg crate media rack with (Top to Bottom) Polyester pillow batting, a cut out piece of stock coarse sponge and 2 ceramic bio media pouches 
- Added a 10w heater in the pump chamber
- Used a piece of plexiglas to cover a majority of the slits for a surface skimming effect 

I can post some pics upon request.


----------



## MoreyFan

BK-201 said:


> Hi everyone I'm new to The Planted tank Community and new to planted tanks in general but I would like to share my mods to my Fluval Spec 3! :laugh2: :laugh2:.
> 
> So far I've;
> 
> - Covered both overflow slits with small pieces of plastic and silicone
> - Replaced the stock pump with the Hydor Centrifugal Pump 70
> - Replaced the stock sponge filter with a 4 tier egg crate media rack with (Top to Bottom) Polyester pillow batting, a cut out piece of stock coarse sponge and 2 ceramic bio media pouches
> - Added a 10w heater in the pump chamber
> - Used a piece of plexiglas to cover a majority of the slits for a surface skimming effect
> 
> I can post some pics upon request.


I understand what you mean by the plexiglass but I cannot visualize the other over flow and plastic/silicone mods. So pics of that would be great thnx.

How did the Hydor pump fit in there? Much larger than the original pump? Flow difference? Hose size is the same?


----------



## BK-201

MoreyFan said:


> I understand what you mean by the plexiglass but I cannot visualize the other over flow and plastic/silicone mods. So pics of that would be great thnx.
> 
> How did the Hydor pump fit in there? Much larger than the original pump? Flow difference? Hose size is the same?


I can't post any pictures atm but I can answer your questions to some degree. I covered up the slits seen in the pics below to force the water to go through the filtration chambers.

As for the pump it was able to fit in the back chamber with room to spare, it's able to orient itself in different positions making mounting very easy. Although the pump is a bit smaller than the original it's heavier/beefier and very well made, also the stock hose fits on the pump no problem. The flow is much stronger compared to the original so much that it significantly lowered the water level in the back chamber by 1.5". 

The mount that the pump comes with is was too big to fit so I made my own using; scrap plexiglas, the stock foam, the suction cups the pump came with and zip-ties. I drilled 6 holes in the plexiglas 4 of which are for the suction cups and the remaing 2 is for the zip-tie, I used the stock foam to surround the pump to dampen the vibration (Pump is very quiet regardless) then I zip-tied the pump with the foam to the plexiglas. I made sure that the holes for the suction cups were smaller than normal to ensure that they would not come out.

(Pictures below are not from my setup)


----------



## bsantucci

Bebbie said:


> Hi, great forum/thread. Read all your suggestions on modifying fluval tanks. Great ideas. I've just removed the plastic section from my Fluval Spec thanks to the wonderful video I found on Youtube. No more filter problems.
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgk_EVXxCP0


Did you use the same bubble filter?

Has anyone used one of these? I really want more space so I'm thinking of removing the compartment.

Amazon.com : Lee's Triple-Flow Corner Filter, Small : Aquarium Filters : Pet Supplies

Any other ideas for a filter once removing the compartment? My tank is for a betta, but I hate the way it is set up stock.


----------



## MoreyFan

BK-201 said:


> that it significantly lowered the water level in the back chamber by 1.5".


I would guess most of that is from the overflow restriction you made for the skimming effect. I have an Aquaclear 30 sponge sitting on top of the stock sponge and filter floss in front of the slits. That filters and water passing through the upper slit. The upper slit is there to prevent a dirty filter from making the back chamber lower than the display. So I have to watch that like a hawk. HC coming up from the roots clogs it hard.


----------



## BK-201

MoreyFan said:


> I would guess most of that is from the overflow restriction you made for the skimming effect. I have an Aquaclear 30 sponge sitting on top of the stock sponge and filter floss in front of the slits. That filters and water passing through the upper slit. The upper slit is there to prevent a dirty filter from making the back chamber lower than the display. So I have to watch that like a hawk. HC coming up from the roots clogs it hard.


Interesting could you post some pics if possible? I'll post some of my setup tonight after work.

I also just fabricated a little pothos plant holder out of egg crate that sits perfectly in the back chamber, I'll monitor the roots so that it wont come close to clogging the pump.


----------



## BK-201

*Fluval Spec 3 Setup*

Here are some pics of my setup;


----------



## embryoguy

anyone use the satellite , single row led 18 inch fixture for the spec 5?


----------



## The Big Buddha

Very nice bk-201. 
What are you using to hold the plant in the back?

.


----------



## BK-201

The Big Buddha said:


> Very nice bk-201.
> What are you using to hold the plant in the back?


I cut a piece of lighting diffuser into a small piece with 2 squares, one of the squares gets a notch cut out so it can hang on the glass and then I used some leftover sponge to hold the plant snugly in place but drilling a hole and using a suction cup might've been easier.


----------



## FroggaMamma

*So helpful!*

Stumbled across this forum & thread as I got a new Spec V for my african dwarf frogs. They were a gift - came in one of those little tiny plastic cubes. They needed a new home! Got them finally set up in the Fluval and they are so happy. But then today I saw one of them trying to squeeze through the lower opening to the filter side! Ack! 

So found the suggestion about the electrical tape - BRILLIANT. Never would have thought it would stick when wet but it did! I only covered about 3/4 of it just in case the water level ever drops before I notice it. More than enough coverage to prevent the little fellas from entering the black hole to death. 

Then I saw the suggestion to reduce flow by putting nylon over the black return valve. BRILLIANT! Found an old pair of knee-highs and cut off the thicker top part, rubber banded it across the valve, and boom - about 1/4 of the flow that was coming out. (though I kind of think they were having fun taking the Rapids Ride, as I was calling it)

NOW - I haven't found any good suggestions yet about how to cover the hole so my little sweeties can't end up dehydrated on my desk. They haven't tried to jump out yet, but I plan to give them floating plants at the top, which would give them the perfect springboard if they ever thought the grass could be greener elsewhere. I don't want to restrict the light. If I put a solid piece of plexiglass over the opening, would that adversely affect the tank? Ideally I'd like a clear plastic piece with slots, but I have no idea where to find such a thing. I wrote to Fluval, and they basically replied "nope, we have nothing and have no suggestions for you." 

Thanks for such a great thread!


----------



## daffyfish

Any type of plastic or glass will diffuse the light a bit. But, shouldn't be a big concern. You could just buy a piece of plexiglass and use a dremel to cut the slots. Or maybe, cut a piece of light diffuser (egg crate) to fit.


----------



## brandy3392

I use a piece of non-adhesive shelf liner to cover the hole in the lid of my Spec tanks. The shelf liner is clear, flexible vinyl (or plastic?) with a ribbed texture to it. It does not seem to affect tank lighting, and is heavy enough to stay in place on its own. I cut a little hole in mine to make feeding easier. I'm sure there are better solutions, but this was cheap, easy, and doesn't look too bad. It also greatly reduces evaporation and keeps the water much warmer. I paid about $6 for a large roll at Target.


----------



## hispek

Fluval Spec V - REMOVE PUMP OUTLET TUBE 

Hello all, would it be possible to remove the pump outlet tube completely? I imagine water would rise in that chamber....

1. Enlarge the outlet hole?
2. Seal the top of the chamber to direct the water out of the current hole? (Hard to do if there is a water heater cord)

Am I off base? I am not a home and looking at my Spec V.. thoughts??


----------



## jenniferpsnyder

brandy3392 said:


> I use a piece of non-adhesive shelf liner to cover the hole in the lid of my Spec tanks. The shelf liner is clear, flexible vinyl (or plastic?) with a ribbed texture to it. It does not seem to affect tank lighting, and is heavy enough to stay in place on its own. I cut a little hole in mine to make feeding easier. I'm sure there are better solutions, but this was cheap, easy, and doesn't look too bad. It also greatly reduces evaporation and keeps the water much warmer. I paid about $6 for a large roll at Target.


How did you attach this? I've tried using silicone adhesive and super glue. Both times it's ended up in the water. (Although I suspect I didn't let the silicone cure long enough!) Top side? On the spec V (my model) the flatter, easier-to-adhere surface seems to be the underside. Maybe I'll have to get creative....


----------



## hallfish

My very slight modifications are very simple.. I needed a little more light at one point (and will again - I'm in the process of changing the plants in this tank) so I added some extra LED's that I had laying around from an old Top Fin 20g kit. I also just used clear packing tape to make the hole smaller since there was a lot of water spraying up into the light from the air pump I'm running. I was worried the chemicals in the tape could harm the fish/snails/shrimp/plants but I've run this for 2+ months with no issues. See pics for more info.


----------



## guvmarley

I have the spec V and am considering removing the filter wall completely and upgrading to a canister. I feel like I've seen someone do that around here. It'd be nice to have the extra space used up by the sponge. I've had mine for over a year and have been slowly making modifications. It's such a great first-time tank to learn on.


----------



## FishRFriendz

guvmarley said:


> I have the spec V and am considering removing the filter wall completely and upgrading to a canister. I feel like I've seen someone do that around here. It'd be nice to have the extra space used up by the sponge. I've had mine for over a year and have been slowly making modifications. It's such a great first-time tank to learn on.


I'm guessing it would be easier and cheaper to pick up a $15 10 gallon Aqueon tank, or the 5 gallon either way they cost the same. I'd only pay the premium for the Spec because of the built in filter really... Without the built-in filter... it's not much more than a plain tank with a clip on light.

Anyone tried removing the pump and replacing it with an airlift tube? I have my heater and airstone in that slot already... and this could reduce and give more external control over flow via an air valve.


----------



## FishRFriendz

I've been using a bio media bag filled with ceramic rings for a while, with the big middle portion of the original foam cut out, using the top and the bottom rectangles.

Since I was cycling a new Spec V version 2 i figured for 75¢ cross stitch canvas and some cable ties I'd make something a bit easier to remove and insert, as well as use space more efficiently. So this is sandwitched between the top and bottom pieces of the original foam insert.

With the new tray I can get .5~.7L of ceramic rings, and ~.25L of substrat pro. Before with just the bag I was only fitting .5~.7L of ceramic rings.

What a savings over https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Spec-Evo-Media-Basket/dp/B00H56OH4M


----------



## travellife

Pretty ingenious and neatly done. Have you tried Purigen as part of that stack? Just started using it recently in my Spec and very pleased with the water clarity as a result of.

travellife


----------



## FishRFriendz

Haven't had the need for purigen. Will consider it if the need arises. 

Unfortunately I made the change on the new tank during the cycling, I've lost about 2-3 days of bacterial growth progress that was in that big middle chunk of foam


----------



## Cheree Carter

Great mod! Exactly what I want to do. What is the plastic material you used to make the basket and where did you get it?


----------



## Featherstone

FishRFriendz, I'm also curious how you did the basket. Could you do a tutorial? Or explain how you stitched it together?


----------



## York1

InTank makes a basket for the Spec. Its not cheap but if you are lazy like me it is easier than diy


----------



## Featherstone

Anyone have overheating issues with a heater in the pump chamber? I have a "Aqueon Submersible Aquarium Heater, 10W" and it kept heating the tank up to 80*F + .... turned it off for now, but trying to figure out how to heat this thing for my betta.


----------



## natemcnutty

Featherstone said:


> Anyone have overheating issues with a heater in the pump chamber? I have a "Aqueon Submersible Aquarium Heater, 10W" and it kept heating the tank up to 80*F + .... turned it off for now, but trying to figure out how to heat this thing for my betta.


Hey Featherstone 

I picked up one of the Inkbird controllers for like $15 on sale a little while back. I was given one of those heat mats with my Spec V, and rather than trying to find a better heater that would fit the pump chamber, I spent the money on a temperature controller.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NB8LQA8

Basically, you set the minimum and maximum temp, and it will turn power on and off to keep the temp correct. If you have issues with needing to cool the temp due to ambient temp, they have more expensive controllers that have a second power plug to control a cooling fan.


----------



## FishRFriendz

Cheree Carter said:


> Great mod! Exactly what I want to do. What is the plastic material you used to make the basket and where did you get it?





Featherstone said:


> FishRFriendz, I'm also curious how you did the basket. Could you do a tutorial? Or explain how you stitched it together?


It's the darice size 5 cross stitch canvas I think. That size is larger than the usual cross stitch canvas, it's big enough to run zip ties through. I just cut up all the sides to a box, zip them together leaving one side unattached, pour in my media, then zip tie the last side on.

You have to find a local arts and craft store, canvas is dirt cheap. Same canvas online is ridiculously priced.


----------



## sharkbunnie

Featherstone said:


> Anyone have overheating issues with a heater in the pump chamber? I have a "Aqueon Submersible Aquarium Heater, 10W" and it kept heating the tank up to 80*F + .... turned it off for now, but trying to figure out how to heat this thing for my betta.


I cut some small holes in the pump return tubing and put a 25w heater in that chamber. It has resulted in the temps being much more stable in the main part of the tank and eliminated any over heating issues I've had. Here's a link that shows how to do it. http://spec-tanks.com/fluval-spec-flow-tube-modification/ It has the added benefit of reducing flow a bit, which my betta has not complained about. Hope this helps
By the way, I used to live in Asheville and now live just down the road in Hendersonville, on some former Featherstone family land. Featherstone creek runs through my property.


----------



## Featherstone

sharkbunnie said:


> I cut some small holes in the pump return tubing and put a 25w heater in that chamber. It has resulted in the temps being much more stable in the main part of the tank and eliminated any over heating issues I've had. Here's a link that shows how to do it. http://spec-tanks.com/fluval-spec-flow-tube-modification/It has the added benefit of reducing flow a bit, which my betta has not complained about. Hope this helps
> By the way, I used to live in Asheville and now live just down the road in Hendersonville, on some former Featherstone family land. Featherstone creek runs through my property.


No way! Its apparently a historical surname from the area my parents are from (they're English immigrants). Always liked it better. PM me and maybe we can exchange plant cuttings or fry sometime!
Cut holes in the pipe on the Spec III, definitely helped with the flow. Inkbird controller is on its way here from Amazon... excited!:grin2:


----------



## FishRFriendz

Cable ties
https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-43036-4-Inch-Cable/dp/B0002GX1XA
I find something similar at Home Depot for about the same price.

Darice #5 craft canvas
https://www.amazon.com/Bulk-Buy-Darice-Plastic-12-Pack/dp/B00KHAY65I
The price on amazon is ridiculous. It's $2 at JoAnn craft store, prolly the same or less at Michaels craft store. I made two filter trays with 1 sheet(for two aquariums) and still had left over. There's craft stores everywhere and other brands as well. The sizes are a standard, I believe it's how many squares per inch. The higher the # size the smaller the squares because more squares per inch. Standard cross stitch size is #7 or #8. Even the standard size will work, just requires the smallest size cable ties.

Maybe I should start selling these lol.

In-tank's filter mod is nice, clear acrylic is very nice, but in my sump collecting biofilm? I do like the idea that since is using sheets of acrylic that it will essentially block that bottom sump entry hole. That hole has saved my pump tho, when I went on vacation for a week and the water evaporation lowered the water below the top overflow.


----------



## sharkbunnie

Featherstone said:


> No way! Its apparently a historical surname from the area my parents are from (they're English immigrants). Always liked it better. PM me and maybe we can exchange plant cuttings or fry sometime!
> Cut holes in the pipe on the Spec III, definitely helped with the flow. Inkbird controller is on its way here from Amazon... excited!:grin2:


Yeah, the Featherstones, from what I have gathered, came from England and owned tons & tons of property in Henderson and Buncombe counties. I believe Merrimon ave., in Asheville, is named after Merrimon Featherstone. You may be related to some real historical movers & shakers in the area! I'll be sure to get in touch. I should be doing a rescape this weekend (hopefully) and will probably have some plants to give away. Good luck with your spec! :grin2:


----------



## hritchie

My mods are:

Replaced stock light with Finnex Fugeray 16"
Replaced sponge and media in filter compartment with InTank media basket filled with Biohome Biogravel. The holes in the basket were too large for the biogravel so I had to cut a slice of the sponge to use as a stopper for it. I'm going to buy some of that craft canvas I've seen in this thread to replace it.
Put Hydor Theo 50W in the pump compartment. The heater wattage is definitely overkill but it's something I already had. I sliced a couple small holes in the output hose and added a Finnex heat controller since I couldn't get the temp lower than 80 and my CPDs don't like that.
I HATE the sound of air pumps but wanted extra surface agitation for oxygen absorption. After a good year of searching for a dead quiet air pump and trying the Sochting Oxydator and frogetting to refill it multiple times, I found the Eheim 9/12 power diffusor that uses a venturi to pull air into the tank. It's exactly what I had in mind.


----------



## josecatala

Has anyone tried putting the heater in the intake side of the filter? I have a Neo-Therm 50W that fits in both sides, but I'm more afraid of it melting the output hose. I will be removing the sponge filters that come with it and replace it with Bio rings, and Eheim Substrat pro and filter floss for my mechanical media.


----------



## FishRFriendz

josecatala said:


> Has anyone tried putting the heater in the intake side of the filter? I have a Neo-Therm 50W that fits in both sides, but I'm more afraid of it melting the output hose. I will be removing the sponge filters that come with it and replace it with Bio rings, and Eheim Substrat pro and filter floss for my mechanical media.


I've got a preset heater i think might fit right in the bottom of the media side. But i think that would mean pulling the power cable up the pump side as i wouldn't want it messing with my media holder. I'm doing ceramic rings and substrat pro, and using cut outs of the original foam rather than floss. 

Sent from my ZTE A2017U using Tapatalk


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## Science Seuss

Thought I'd share how I set up my pump compartment. The heater (1) is a shorty, so it fits above the raised pump. Speaking of the pump (2), I cut about an inch and a half off the pump return hose to raise it up so I could fit the ceramic disk CO2 diffuser (3) under it.









Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk


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## kmatsu

I love this thread! I just got a Fluval Spec V this past June and have just posted a couple of YouTube videos on my new Finnex 24/7 Planted+ SE light, and a DIY acrylic cover with a hinged access lid, to replace the stock cover. Here are the links to the YouTube videos:

New Cover: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVpWw5bd0yE&t=120s

New Finnex Light: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmYEwPj5lD4&t=49s


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## yungtoolie

Picked up a Spec 5 today. I got rid of the black sponge. I had a 2 pack of filter sponges for a fluval 106 that I cut to fit the Spec sump. I put the first sponge in the bottom, then I put the stock ceramic rings on top of that. I filled a media bag with whatever other ceramic media I had laying around and put that in. I then cut a polishing pad from a fluval 106 to size and put that in with the 2nd filter sponge on the very top. I'm hoping that the top sponge and polishing pad will catch all of the solid waste and I won't have to pull the bio media out really ever. 

Can post pics tomorrow if anyone is interested.


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## tontamoo

*DIY filter media basket*

Here's my version of the DIY filter media basket for my Spec V that was originally posted here by FishRFriendz (thanks for the inspiration).

Using plastic canvas and zipties, I created multiple sections and a flap on one side so I can change out the filter media as I please. I included a shallow shelf on top for easy access to my pre-filter media, as I anticipate changing this most often. 

I also used the excess plastic canvas to cover the huge hole in the lid to prevent my betta and his future tankmates from jumping/climbing out. It's sized so I can slide it back and forth to create openings for feeding and dosing Excel and fertilizer.

Cost:

large sheet of #5 size plastic canvas (~$2 at Joann's)
pack of zipties (< $0.99 at Harbor Freight)


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## 1825vine

Where can I buy this Spec V shrimplet filter guard? Thanks


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## natemcnutty

1825vine said:


> Where can I buy this Spec V shrimplet filter guard? Thanks


Which one? There are several styles I've seen people do.


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## Cools

*Lighting timer*

Has anyone set up a timer with the stock lighting? Does it need modding, which I guess is easier with the old style stock light?


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## Mike A.

Cools said:


> Has anyone set up a timer with the stock lighting? Does it need modding, which I guess is easier with the old style stock light?


Nothing required with the newer light. It works with a timer. Comes on however last set. If you wanted to control the white/blue lights independently, then you would have to do more. Don't know about the older.


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## second

Anyone try a hob filter placed where the box filter is? I just put a finnex pf5 on mine, wanted to clean up some post re-scape mulm sitting on top of the gravel but I may leave the filter there for good. Top doesnt quite fit but it just sticks over the other end about an inch and a half. 

I may try to make a custom top in the future for a better fit and appearance


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## Fisherking

So, the Spec lll being $43 on Amazon right now, I'm considering getting one. I read they've also improved the light since this thread was begun. 

Instead of the clever mods using plastic sewing canvas to make a filter basket, is it possible to fit one of the baskets from an Aqua Clear/Fluval HOB filter into the back compartment? 

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-Me...15755&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter+basket

I once had a 4 gal CadLights with the same back compartment and that worked perfectly for it.

Thoughts?


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## Fisherking

Jack Gilvey said:


> Hey all,
> 
> I've had a couple Specs and love the look and form-factor but have always found myself wanting to tweak/mod the filtration. So, I finally decided to ditch the whole filter and go with a mattenfilter since I've been so happy with one (and Poret foam filters in general) in my main tank. The stock filter was very easy to remove - just silicone which cleaned up nicely with a razor blade. I used 1" 30ppi Poret and a small Jetlifter from swisstropicals.com, and I cut off the very bottom of the stock filter to use as a "gravel-guard" at the base of the foam.
> 
> I have the front edge of the foam lined up with the frosted glass edge, and a Hydor Theo fits nicely as does the stock top. The foam is cut just slightly wider than the tank and stays in place by itself. 1" Poret works ok in this tank as it's only 7" wide or so, but in a larger tank the 2" foam is much more stable.
> 
> Also, I really like these Jetlifters, but there's no reason you couldn't still use the stock Fluval pump and tubing - might need a little more room behind. Just make a small "x" in the foam with a knife and push the nozzle through for a tight fit, like I did with the Jetlifter.
> 
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> Not sure what I'll use it for, yet!


The Mattenfilter idea is interesting! Anyone know if this was done to a Spec lll or V? I'd like to know a little bit more about how this mod was made. I might like to try it on a Spec lll. The sponge wall would be great for shrimp.


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## kaldurak

Fisherking said:


> Jack Gilvey said:
> 
> 
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I've had a couple Specs and love the look and form-factor but have always found myself wanting to tweak/mod the filtration. So, I finally decided to ditch the whole filter and go with a mattenfilter since I've been so happy with one (and Poret foam filters in general) in my main tank. The stock filter was very easy to remove - just silicone which cleaned up nicely with a razor blade. I used 1" 30ppi Poret and a small Jetlifter from swisstropicals.com, and I cut off the very bottom of the stock filter to use as a "gravel-guard" at the base of the foam.
> 
> I have the front edge of the foam lined up with the frosted glass edge, and a Hydor Theo fits nicely as does the stock top. The foam is cut just slightly wider than the tank and stays in place by itself. 1" Poret works ok in this tank as it's only 7" wide or so, but in a larger tank the 2" foam is much more stable.
> 
> Also, I really like these Jetlifters, but there's no reason you couldn't still use the stock Fluval pump and tubing - might need a little more room behind. Just make a small "x" in the foam with a knife and push the nozzle through for a tight fit, like I did with the Jetlifter.
> 
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> 
> Not sure what I'll use it for, yet! <a href="http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/images/smilie/icon_smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Smile" ></a>
> 
> 
> 
> The Mattenfilter idea is interesting! Anyone know if this was done to a Spec lll or V? I'd like to know a little bit more about how this mod was made. I might like to try it on a Spec lll. The sponge wall would be great for shrimp.
Click to expand...


Based on the picture, that's a V.


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## Fisherking

kaldurak said:


> Based on the picture, that's a V.


Thank you. I can cut the sponge to fit a Spec lll, I think. Swisstropicals sells sheets that can be cut...


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## thorsonic

Has anyone put filter floss on top of the stock filter on a Spec V? It seems like a reasonable mod.

I have little specs of material that won't filter out of the water.

I've been doing a planted fishless cycle for the last three weeks.

I've done water changes, I've rinsed the filter in tank water, and I've replaced the carbon filter with a Purigen filter.

It just stated doing this in the last few days. Nothing has been changed in the last week and a half, and the last change was the addition of the Purigen filter.

Thanks


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## Mike A.

thorsonic said:


> Has anyone put filter floss on top of the stock filter on a Spec V? It seems like a reasonable mod.
> 
> I have little specs of material that won't filter out of the water.
> 
> I've been doing a planted fishless cycle for the last three weeks.
> 
> I've done water changes, I've rinsed the filter in tank water, and I've replaced the carbon filter with a Purigen filter.
> 
> It just stated doing this in the last few days. Nothing has been changed in the last week and a half, and the last change was the addition of the Purigen filter.
> 
> Thanks


I don't use floss but I do cut down some similar fine filter pads to use the same way for the same reason. The stock setup isn't great at filtering fine particles. That helps quite a bit.


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## thorsonic

Mike A. said:


> I don't use floss but I do cut down some similar fine filter pads to use the same way for the same reason. The stock setup isn't great at filtering fine particles. That helps quite a bit.



That's a good idea. Thanks!


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## minorhero

Hello folks,

I modified the flow on my Spec V and wanted to share it. I didn't see anyone else doing the same thing so hopefully this will be valuable to someone. 

The default flow on the Spec V is too much for my beta. I had a sponge stuck on the nozzle for the better part of 7 months. The problem with the sponge is that it restricts too much flow. My beta liked the lack of current but I got a blue green algae outbreak and in general some water quality issues.

My solution was to crimp the rubber hose that attaches to the pump and put a zip tie on it. This has the benefit of being adjustable, and not harming the hose. I had to play with it a bit to get the right amount of flow. And if you go too far you have to cut it off and start over with a new zip tie. But it works incredibly well. Plus you get to toss out that sponge.

Here is a picture of how my tube looked once it was crimped.










Hopefully this helps folks going forward.


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## TheBalance

*Pump position*

Hi, I'm new to the forum having found this thread because I have just purchased a fluval spec 10L - I'm replacing a larger tank that has become tatty and unloved over the years and we dont really have the space for it anymore.

I've been looking around for hints and tips before I start and one question I don't think I have seen answered is "has anyone tried mounting the included pump higher in the pump chamber?". 

I'm asking because looking at the tank design I see an opportunity to put some media at the bottom of the pump chamber and either site the pump on top and cut the length of the outflow pipe or even stick the pump to the wall directly in front of the outlet hole. I've yet to put any water in the tank (or even fully unbox it to be honest, this weekend is the plan) so experimentation to come but besides the need to ensure the water level it seems the only risk is vibration from the pump causing noise that isn't absorbed because of being higher up?

So interested if anyone has already experimented.

Thanks


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## minorhero

TheBalance said:


> Hi, I'm new to the forum having found this thread because I have just purchased a fluval spec 10L - I'm replacing a larger tank that has become tatty and unloved over the years and we dont really have the space for it anymore.
> 
> I've been looking around for hints and tips before I start and one question I don't think I have seen answered is "has anyone tried mounting the included pump higher in the pump chamber?".
> 
> I'm asking because looking at the tank design I see an opportunity to put some media at the bottom of the pump chamber and either site the pump on top and cut the length of the outflow pipe or even stick the pump to the wall directly in front of the outlet hole. I've yet to put any water in the tank (or even fully unbox it to be honest, this weekend is the plan) so experimentation to come but besides the need to ensure the water level it seems the only risk is vibration from the pump causing noise that isn't absorbed because of being higher up?
> 
> So interested if anyone has already experimented.
> 
> Thanks


Hello and welcome to the forum! Lots of good information here from a variety of folks.

I have not tried to move the pump higher in the chamber but I am sure that would work fine if you wish to do so. That said, there is already quite a bit of room for biological and mechanical media in the existing filter compartment, certainly as much as any planted tank needs. Before you go cutting your hose and making it difficult to go back to the previous design I would try it as is. Just get rid of the carbon packet the tank comes with and replace it with some more ceramic rings. Those rings are good for life, you never need to get rid of them and even one packet is enough for the whole tank but /shrug there is space there so why not use it?


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## TheBalance

minorhero said:


> Hello and welcome to the forum! Lots of good information here from a variety of folks.
> 
> I have not tried to move the pump higher in the chamber but I am sure that would work fine if you wish to do so. That said, there is already quite a bit of room for biological and mechanical media in the existing filter compartment, certainly as much as any planted tank needs. Before you go cutting your hose and making it difficult to go back to the previous design I would try it as is. Just get rid of the carbon packet the tank comes with and replace it with some more ceramic rings. Those rings are good for life, you never need to get rid of them and even one packet is enough for the whole tank but /shrug there is space there so why not use it?


Thank you for responding, I know there is supposed to be plenty of capacity already but yet to encounter a tank or pond that couldnt do with just a little bit more  and always up for tinkering, good idea on the carbon though, I was planning to bring some of the existing rings across from my current tank (along with some gravel, I'll bring the one plant that continues to cling on and water to get it started quicker).

If anyone has any "spare" plants they want to find a home for........


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## Jappymonster

only issue I would see is when filter chamber gets little clammy and/or water level lowers by evap. depending on where you live and how dry the air is but mine drops about 1/8 to 1/4 daily if I use OEM lids
which translate to larger height in the pump area especially you decided to close the bottom slit on filter side from the viewing section (and the side slit on the divider in filter side) 
depending on how much higher you would move the pump it may run dry (also how often you check the water level. 

Charcoal maybe good option initially but they are easily spent and become ineffective. I would put some water modifier (peat or hardener type) or phos or nitrate removers that is coming in a bag. 
also would cut a large sponge block to the pump section dimension and filter out elusive slimy material and or sandy material that are broken pieces of bio ring and such to be stopped pre-pump stage. 

the water level gap increases:
1) if you close those "run dry prevention" holes 
2) pump swapped to minijet or similar that has higher gph than original
3) when filtering material gets scummy and flow rate decreases 
4) when water level was kept low like the level of over flow

otherwise it wont be so much of a problem to lift the pump I would think


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## spartin718

I have the 16 gallon and i did away with the black sponge filter system and purchased two acrylic media baskets from InTank.com. I fill them with sponges, fluval matrix, purigen, a bag of peat to rid a new tank of diatoms. In the pump column is where I put my Aqueon 100 watt heater that has room left over. I too plugged that little hole in the false wall and am going to be blocking off the bottom grate completely. I don't have a problem with too much flow because I have the back filled with media. I have a Sicce pump 1.0. I switched lights and am working on a new tank lid. Here is the InTank website that has media baskets, a chamber plug for that hole, a water director and a cheap surface skimmer.


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## RoguePlanter

Jappymonster said:


> only issue I would see is when filter chamber gets little clammy and/or water level lowers by evap. depending on where you live and how dry the air is but mine drops about 1/8 to 1/4 daily if I use OEM lids
> which translate to larger height in the pump area especially you decided to close the bottom slit on filter side from the viewing section (and the side slit on the divider in filter side)
> depending on how much higher you would move the pump it may run dry (also how often you check the water level.
> 
> Charcoal maybe good option initially but they are easily spent and become ineffective. I would put some water modifier (peat or hardener type) or phos or nitrate removers that is coming in a bag.
> also would cut a large sponge block to the pump section dimension and filter out elusive slimy material and or sandy material that are broken pieces of bio ring and such to be stopped pre-pump stage.
> 
> the water level gap increases:
> 1) if you close those "run dry prevention" holes
> 2) pump swapped to minijet or similar that has higher gph than original
> 3) when filtering material gets scummy and flow rate decreases
> 4) when water level was kept low like the level of over flow
> 
> otherwise it wont be so much of a problem to lift the pump I would think


Hello! I am new to the forum and semi-new to the hobby. I was looking for mods for the spec v and came across this thread. If I wanted to replace the pump, what would be a good gph for the five gallon? I am currently waiting on my media basket to arrive but have observed that not much water has been entering the filter. My new basket will cover the bottom dry run hole so this may solve the problem on its own but I am just entertaining ideas. I did follow some advice previously to drill a few small holes in the outflow tube but am considering covering them back up with electrical tape due to the flow. Thanks!


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## SDrouillard

Hi. 
I reduced the flow by putting a prefilter sponge over the jet. I used one that was designed for the Fluval Edge. It is a little of a distraction but it works like a charm and honestly I don't notice it any more. My Betta is very happy with the reduced flow.
Regarding a replacement pump, There is a Spec V blog entitled Spec-Tanks dedicated to the nano aquarist. He has a whole section of posts dealing with mods for the Spec V. The Tabs are across the top. He has a review of the alternate pump that he used. The blog has been really helpful.

Hope this helps. Have a great day


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## RoguePlanter

SDrouillard said:


> Hi.
> I reduced the flow by putting a prefilter sponge over the jet. I used one that was designed for the Fluval Edge. It is a little of a distraction but it works like a charm and honestly I don't notice it any more. My Betta is very happy with the reduced flow.
> Regarding a replacement pump, There is a Spec V blog entitled Spec-Tanks dedicated to the nano aquarist. He has a whole section of posts dealing with mods for the Spec V. The Tabs are across the top. He has a review of the alternate pump that he used. The blog has been really helpful.
> 
> Hope this helps. Have a great day


Thanks so much!


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