# Mineralized TopSoil and Dry Start Method



## Aquaman55g (Jul 11, 2011)

My Spring/Summer project is going to be setting up a 40 gallon breeder sized low tech / no CO2 aquarium in my living room, which will have a soil substrate. I also want to try using the Dry Start Method of planting. I am planning to use only 2 pieces of mopani wood, a few pieces of slate along with such plants as HC, Riccia, some moss with just enough tall plants to conceal my heater, intake, etc.
I will be using rinsed top soil with pottery clay added and underneath as a base a sprinkling of both Muriate of Potash and Dolomite as per MTS instructions by Aaron T.
I was reading a post by Tom Barr on the Dry Start Method and my question is how long per day should the lights be on over the moist substrate with foreground plants such as HC Riccia, moss, etc. until it all grows in and the tank is cycled? Also, do I need to do anything besides keeping the light on and a moist substrate since the soil will be so rich in nutrients?
Thanks - :fish:


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## carpalstunna (Mar 22, 2012)

I think people usually go with longer light cycles,(depending on what kind of lights you have) with the dry start because there is less issues with algae 10-12 hours. You should be able to just mist with water and keep some saran wrap overtop of the tank for humidity. Be careful of direct sunlight and what the temperature is in the tank. You can get it too hot (greenhouse effect). 

I highly recommend you do some kind of CO2. It will help immensly with battling algae. At least a DIY setup which is very cheap. Two DIY setups would give you great amount of CO2 for that size tank, or 1 supplemented with some excel.


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

You don't necessarily have to mineralize the topsoil. There have been a few posts refuting the need for the wet-dry cycles. It takes a long time to actually mineralize top soil and by DSM you will break down any urea/ammonia source prior to adding fauna.

What will you use to cover the soil?


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## Aquaman55g (Jul 11, 2011)

*Reply to vvDO*

I am going to go ahead and try the MTS method anyway along with DSM. I also plan to add an Aqueon 36" T5 light and only add Excel no CO2. I plan to cover the soil with a small sized black gravel. I would like to use a gravel sized smaller than conventional aquarium gravel but larger than sand granules. Where would I be able to obtain such aquarium gravel?
Thanks for the advice.


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## farmhand (Jun 25, 2009)

vvDO said:


> You don't necessarily have to mineralize the topsoil. There have been a few posts refuting the need for the wet-dry cycles. It takes a long time to actually mineralize top soil and by DSM you will break down any urea/ammonia source prior to adding fauna.
> 
> What will you use to cover the soil?


Interested in this myself. Every time I see a post about MTS, its like 50 pages long. Is there a quick link to a good formula?


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

It's buried in this long _ _ _ed thread...

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/substrate/72382-mineralized-top-soil-substrate-22.html#post1399569


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## SCMurphy (Oct 21, 2003)

farmhand said:


> Interested in this myself. Every time I see a post about MTS, its like 50 pages long. Is there a quick link to a good formula?


What formula, if you mean the guidelines of how to set up a tank with the mineralized soil then Aaron's article is a sticky at the top of the Substrates forum. Remember, if you change something in the recipe, keep track of what you did and post so everyone knows what else works or doesn't.


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## farmhand (Jun 25, 2009)

SCMurphy said:


> Aaron's article is a sticky at the top of the Substrates forum.


Thanks


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

I do not think the goal the OP stated is realitistic. HC and Riccia and a low tech = no CO2.......... really are not that successful. Perhaps Excel...........but no CO2 and these plants are not likely to end successfully.

I'd have a tough time doing it, but might be able to.....

As suggest already, consider CO2 and learn that.


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