# 240G - WoodScape- Drilled - Medium Tech ? * Update 8/28/2011



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Hey there everyone,

I didn't have any plans to purchase a new planted tank, but while selling something on craigslist, a buyer threw in something I couldn't refuse... a 240G Glass tank!

I don't have everything worked out yet, and I still consider myself an amateur to planted tanks. I have one 55G which has been a low tech, no c02, 2WPG, no water changes, planted tank for about a year and a half. 

[STRIKE]I plan to duplicate the Low Tech, no c02, no water change method for this new 240G monster. Partly because I don't have the money to invest in all the necessary equipment to have a high tech tank, and partly because I'm a lazy SOB who likes his tanks to maintain themselves! :confused1:[/STRIKE]

New plan is to do pressurized CO2 with a dual stage Matheson 3104C regulator, a 15lb cylinder/tank.

So nothing I post here is set in stone, I'd love to hear your thoughts and opinions, most of you have more experience with planted tanks than me.

240 Gallon glass tank. Dimensions 72" (L) X 24" (W) X 32" (H)

*To Do list:*
- 

*Completed List:*
- Make a new stand (The old one is only 18" high!)
- Re-seal tank?? See pics below, I'm worried about the center brace, at one point it broke and had to be re sealed, not sure about the quality of the work but the previous owner stated that he had it full of water for the past 2-3 years and it was fine. I trust his statement, but just am worried about 240G of water on my floor. Also, years ago the tank leaked, the sealent was replaced and the leak stopped. It doesn't leak now, but should I replace the sealent? 
- Clean tank ( super dirty)
- Make a new hood (Old hood will not work with purchased lighting system)



*Filtration*:
- [STRIKE]Possibly[/STRIKE] Fluval FX5 (Cheapest option I've found so far)

*Substrate *will be either*: *
- Mineralized soil capped with:
- 3M Color quartz black
- [STRIKE]Turface pro league charcoal: 25.00 a 50LB bag. (Purchased 4 bags)[/STRIKE]


*Lighting*:
- [STRIKE]purchased this from a guy off Craigslist, it's a 5 light system. 3X175W Metal halides and 2x45W VHO's. The ballast on this thing ways about 25LBS! At this point I'm not even sure I'm going to use the VHO's. [/STRIKE]

- 4 X 4 foot T5HO bulbs 54W (2 X 10,000K and 2 X 6500K)

*WoodScape:*
- [STRIKE]Driftwood I found from a local lake[/STRIKE] 
- Manzanita via Badcopnofishtank

[STRIKE]*Fauna:* Here is a list of the fish that will be moving from my 55G to my new 240G:
- 1 Ordinary Pleco
- 6 Otto's
- 3 Rummy nose tetras
- 2 Red Skirt tetras
- 1 Dwarf Puffer
- 2 SAE
- 15 Black marble mollies[/STRIKE]

*Fauna Part II*: These are fish that I would like to add
- Discus (Will have to check my water paramaters after injecting CO2 for a bit)
- 30 Rummy nose tetras
- 6-10 more otto's
- Pleco (Bristlenose? Goldnugget?)
- True SAE's
- Some type of shrimp (Suggestions?)
[STRIKE]- German Blue Rams? (Always thought they were so pretty, had 2 in my 55G but they died.)[/STRIKE]
*Flora:* Really not sure about any flora yet. *Need suggestions here!*
- "Carpet" plant, totally not sure what would work for this as carpet plants are usually somewhat difficult in a low tech tank.
- Dwarf Hairgrass as a carpet, not sure which species yet. Suggestions?
- Moss to cover wood scape.
- Background Plants?
- Foreground plants?
- Swords... not sure which

*Total Costs so far:
*:
[STRIKE]- Turface Charcoal, 4 X 50LB Bags = $106.00[/STRIKE] Sold the turface and found some 50LB bags of 3M color quartz black for 10.00 a bag.
- Misc cleaning supplies = $10.00

*Pictures:*
- The first two pictures are of the 240G Next to the 55G. Makes the 55G look tiny!
- Next two pictures are of the center brace that I was worried about. Looking for suggestions/opinions here.
- Last Picture is of the woodscape I intend to use. It measures 23" Wide X 28" High X around 60" Long.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well I cleaned the tank as best as i could. I used a spray bottle to mist vinegar on the entire tank, then I scraped it with a 3" razor blade. I did this about 5 times. 
Now all that's left is a some of that white haze. It's still kind of bothering that the haze is on there, but luckily it's mostly invisible when wet... 

I'm going to start building the stand/hood tonight. I plan on having the hood 11" off the water, so the MH's will be about 9" off the water.

Also, I ordered 200LBS of Turface gray, which should give me about 2-2.5 inches of substrate.

Had two questions for you guys,

#1) Do you think I should re-seal the tank? I've been told that it's held a full tank of water fine for the past few years. But I'm still slightly worried... 

#2) Do people usually do anything to their driftwood to make it safer for the fish? It just seems like my driftwood has tons of very sharp points, should I make them smooth or not worry about it?


----------



## cah925 (May 18, 2007)

Fantastic deal you got there. Here's my answers/suggestions to your questions.
Re-seal the tank? If you are that worried about it, go ahead and do it. It's much easier to do it now, instead of noticing a leak a few months down the road and have to tear this monster tank down. It will take some work, but you will have peace of mind.
Driftwood - don't worry about it. The fish would have to have some kind of weird kamikaze mission to run into the sharp ends and hurt themselves.
Shrimp - depends on how much you want to spend. I'm partial to tiger shrimp myself. I usually pick a shrimp, order a small amount from 2-3 members (genetic diversity) and let them breed.
Carpet plants - For a low tech, no CO2 tank, I would suggest Sag grass, Marselia, or Blyxa japonica
Background plants - just about any kind of stem, Hygros would do well with your setup. Most tall grasses, Crypt spiralis, Crypt balansae, Cyperus helferi, tall swords like Echinodorus 'Rubin', Echinodorus 'Kleiner Bar', Echinodorus uruguayensis, or Echinodorus martii


----------



## FSM (Jan 13, 2009)

If you're worried about the tank leaking, reseal it. Get several containers of silicone (GE silicone I window and door is what I used, it's easy to find). Some silicone comes in black as well. Clean off all the old silicone with one of those flat razor things (not a utility knife)
It's a lot of work and will take several hours. Get a pack of blades as well, a sharp one works much better. Then you are supposed to clean the seams with rubbing alcohol or acetone. Tape off the bead you want with painter's tape and start sealing it...Silicone I smells bad and burns your eyes if you've got your head in the tank next to it. Set up a fan or do it outside if you can. 

WORK QUICKLY

It starts to harden after 15 minutes or so; don't try and smooth it over after that because it will look terrible. Getting someone to help is probably a good idea. 

And DO NOT run out of silicone. Apparently new silicone doesn't adhere to previously cured silicone very well, so if you don't get it all done in one go you're screwed and have to restart.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Thanks for the tips.

Still haven't decided if I'm going to re-seal or not. However, if I do re-seal I'm going to use this: GE RTV108 ... It's a very high quality silicon, runs about 10.00 a tube. 

I'm still debating what to do about filtration. I'm trying to find the cheapest method possible. I Prefer canisters because I've never used a sump before. Keeping in mind that I only plan to have about 50 fish for quite some time, do you think I can get by with one canister meant for a 180G and a powerhead or two? 

Or what other cheap filter options are possibilities?


----------



## FSM (Jan 13, 2009)

Yes. An FX5 would work well. $250 or so total though.


----------



## kali (May 8, 2009)

i think is good idea to re-seal the tank now too since its not set-up yet. make sure its a 100% silicon. when i was re-seal my 90gallon , i just used GE window and doors( NOT bath and kitchen) 100% silicon , work like a champ.

100% with FSM . FX5 is prefect for that tank , but if that was me i'll get two though. is Fx5 really jump up to 250shipped now. i got mine a while back for 210shipped from a ebay seller from MI


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Thanks for the FX5 suggestion guys. I think i can get one for about 220.00 of ebay... 

Today a guy on CL has a Tru Vu 30G Wet/Dry sump with pre filter for $100.00 It seems like a pretty good steal, but I know nothing about sumps, I've never ran one.
I kind of think that a sump would be a bad idea for this low tech tank, as my goal is to limit water changes and maintenance. Any opinions on this?

Also, I'm still debating whether or not to reseal the tank. If I do decide to reseal the tank, would I be able to stand in the tank? I'm 215lbs... don't want to break the glass!! I think resealing would be much harder for this size tank if I have to lean over the side of it for hours, especially since it is so deep.


----------



## Coltonorr (Mar 12, 2008)

You have a pretty decent amount of light over that tank...you may need CO2, and a sump will outgas the CO2
Cool project too!!


----------



## kali (May 8, 2009)

topfrog007 said:


> Thanks for the FX5 suggestion guys. I think i can get one for about 220.00 of ebay...
> 
> Today a guy on CL has a Tru Vu 30G Wet/Dry sump with pre filter for $100.00 It seems like a pretty good steal, but I know nothing about sumps, I've never ran one.
> I kind of think that a sump would be a bad idea for this low tech tank, as my goal is to limit water changes and maintenance. Any opinions on this?
> ...


why would you want to stand in the tank when you re-seal? put the tank down from the stand and bend your back and do the job!! remember to take all the old silicon out and use some alcochol to wipe it before starts the new silicon. its up to you , if you dont think it need to reseal then dont do it . but better a few hours of back bend than leak later and break it all down. if you got a back problem than i dont think plants aquarium is right for U ( trust me i been thinking the same way too , few day ago i waS Planting some plants and my back is killing me ) i was think to go back and raise cichlids again


----------



## Coltonorr (Mar 12, 2008)

kali said:


> if you got a back problem than i dont think plants aquarium is right for U ( trust me i been thinking the same way too , few day ago i waS Planting some plants and my back is killing me ) i was think to go back and raise cichlids again


Kali, sorry about that plant package...I never thought a plant package would injure...:hihi:


----------



## kali (May 8, 2009)

Coltonorr said:


> Kali, sorry about that plant package...I never thought a plant package would injure...:hihi:


Oh no drew ..it aint your fault . i blame it to my shorty celling.:tongue:


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Hmm... that lighting is a bit agressive. "Cheap" does not always mean you can bale out on responsible decisions up front. NOW is the time to either wait or go. With those lights.... I see some type of CO2 requirements needed. (And don't think that DIY is going to be your wild card, sorry).

Just my opinion... but thats a big boy tank with some big boy specs. Thats no baby toy.

Buck up... get the pressurized CO2, OR... and this is the big option.... don't use the metal halides AT ALL until you get CO2.

Just ride low tech on the T5's. If you do that....

Swords. Cryptocoryne. Both of which will thrive in the mineralized. Some Anubias for accent.

Add Fish and Enjoy. Throw in a WC every month or so and brag to your friends about how much work it is. No moss. stuff is a nuiscance in low tech and grows all stringy and is prone to attract algae.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

How about if i just use 2 of the metal halides? So that would be 2X175W or 350W total for a 240G tall.

Is that still too much light for low tech?

If I kept this light fixture it would allow me the option of going high tech later on by just plugging in the other MH and the 2 VHO's.


Oh yeah, I've decided to re-seal the tank. It just makes sense to go ahead and do it now while its empty. 

I bought 9 tubes of the GE RTV108, will try and get to this weekend and post some pictures.


----------



## Coltonorr (Mar 12, 2008)

topfrog007 said:


> How about if i just use 2 of the metal halides? So that would be 2X175W or 350W total for a 240G tall.
> 
> Is that still too much light for low tech?
> 
> ...


I don't mean to butt in but...
I would say too much light...MH are like spot lights so you would have dark corners. Also the light emitted is very intense...
You could go high tech with that fixture once you add pressurized CO2 and dry ferts.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well today I've been doing a lot of work on the tank.

I've been stripping all the old silicone out of the tank, which I'm almost done with now. 
Also in regards to mineralized soil, I've been soaking some topsoil in a big 30G Tub of water. 

So somebody on CL was selling an Icecap 660 (read about it here) VHO ballast and 3X140W 5ft VHO's. I was thinking I could get this ballast and either use 2X140W. What do you guys think, would this be a better option than running 2 of the halides? Also, was thinking with my current setup that I could run 1X175W Halide on one side of the tank and 2X40W VHO's on the other side. 

Any thoughts?

Here are some new pics: 

First pic: Tank, Driftwood, Mineralized soil... and Helper cat. 

Second, an additional option I have been toying with... A 240G Dog tank!


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Today I finished cleaning/striping the old silicone out of the tank and also resealed the tank with 1 and 3/4 tubes of RTV108. I bought 8 tubes thinking I would need 4-8. I put pretty big stands of it down and still only used 1 and 3/4 tubes, so that will save me about $60.00.

Of course with 5 minutes left in the resealing process it started raining pretty heavily. I finished up very quickly and grabbed a tarp and covered up the tank. Hopefully it doesn't leak...

Does anyone have any thoughts about the lights from the previous post?

TIA


----------



## Tex Gal (Mar 28, 2008)

You are quite the adventurer. You're dog looks like he feels punished! Poor poochy! Glad you have the helper cat. He was probably the MOST important add to your project!:wink: 

Hope your project continues as smoothly as possible.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

That is such a big tank. When you do your test fill, make sure that it is sitting on something flat so that all the sides and corners are supported. This is going to be awesome.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

@TexGal, yeah our dog didn't really like being in the tank, so she was only in there for a few seconds. Helpercat is extremely helpful, he's more of a supervisor type helper. He shows his approval for tasks by glancing at you for a short second and then looking away. 

@YikesJason, do you think the blankets that the tank is resting on now provide a stable/flat enough surface to test fill the tank? I don't have anything else to put it on, and would prefer the blankets of the cement. What do you think?

I realized in my haste to cover the tank during the downpour that I forgot to take the masking tape off. So now the silicone has been curing for 18 hours! I think I will let it cure completely and then see if the masking tape disrupts the silicone at all. If it looks bad I may have scrape it all of and reseal ... =(

Still looking for more input on the lighting. Specifically the MH kit VS the Icecap.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

As long as it is flat enough that most of the tank is resting on the ground, you should be fine. The biggest thing to look out for is a corner up off the ground because the ground is uneven. I have read about a couple of monster tanks that were filled on a driveway that was not even and the tank broke. but a porch is normally pretty flat and level. With the blanket to help, you should be good to go.


----------



## Sven (Dec 3, 2002)

For safety you could always get 1" thick styrofoam to put under the tank. That should absorb any point-pressure from a possibly uneaven porch. Then you should be able to use that same styrofoam between the stand and the tank when you set it up indoors.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Is Styrofoam between the stand/tank common? Seems strange to me.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

1- Masking tape may break the seal if its covered in silicone. Try removing it slowly but if it starts takign the silicone up try cutting the line of tape to remove the tape. Worst come to Worst it will have to cure fore a bit so you can cut it out and seal it. Atleast you have extra silicone if you have to.

2- Styrofoam works great for relieving slight imperfections in the stand or where ever its sitting. wouldn't be a bad idea to slip a piece under it for test filling. Also a 1/2" peice on the stand under the tank isn't a bad idea either.

3- For lighting that Icecap would work you could even downsize to a few standard T5HO bulbs if you feel hte need. VHO's tend to run hot and have short life spans somewhere around 8-10 months or something like that.


----------



## Raul-7 (Oct 17, 2003)

For that size, try 1" styrofoam.


----------



## kali (May 8, 2009)

topfrog007 said:


> Is Styrofoam between the stand/tank common? Seems strange to me.


 why would you want to put styrofoam on that glass tank ?? doesn't help none , foam only need on the acrylic tank because the bottom is flat .the bottom of the glass tank only support at the 4 corners due to the frame on the bottom so the bottom isn't flat surface. is your stand factory or DIY? if DIY put the plywood on the top of the stand , you all set to go , if the stand is factory then just leave it like that .


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

kali said:


> why would you want to put styrofoam on that glass tank ?? doesn't help none , foam only need on the acrylic tank because the bottom is flat .the bottom of the glass tank only support at the 4 corners due to the frame on the bottom so the bottom isn't flat surface. is your stand factory or DIY? if DIY put the plywood on the top of the stand , you all set to go , if the stand is factory then just leave it like that .



This is true about when you put your tank up on the stand. But for your test fill on the ground, the blanket should be enough as long as your patio is pretty flat. You are going to be fine.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well I finished taking the masking tape off yesterday. I filled the tank up 3 inches from the bottom. No leaks / Air bubbles. proceeded to fill the tank to the top. No leaks or problems. I checked on it periodically for the next hour and nothing. I was pretty happy with myself!

Right before I went to bed I decided to check one last time, and the SOB had a leak. Not just a drip leak either, a small sized squirt was coming out at the very bottom from the rim, almost dead center. 

I used my python + hose to siphon water out of the tank, once it got halfway full the leak stopped. I continued siphoning, and today I plan on resealing the bottom silicone where the leak appeared.

This all made me realized that If I'm going to put this thing in my house I'm going to need some kind of pump that is capable of draining the tank, and QUICK. In the case of an emergency while it's in the house I don't want to rely on a python + hose to drain the tank because that took almost 45 minutes.

Will post again tomorrow.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

How long did you let the Silicone dry on this tank. On larger tanks with a bigger bead they need atleast a good 7 days to fully cure out or longer. Also patchign will be hard as silicone won't bond to the silicone you put in a coupel days ago.

Craig


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

I followed the guide here:
http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/cms_view_article.php?aid=107

It said that most silicone cure within 24 hours but to wait 48 hours to be safe.
I waited 50 hours. 

Maybe if I strip off the silicone on just that bottom seal and re-do it it'll be ok? Not sure what I would do for the 2 corners...


----------



## sick lid (Jan 13, 2008)

topfrog007 said:


> This all made me realized that If I'm going to put this thing in my house I'm going to need some kind of pump that is capable of draining the tank, and QUICK. In the case of an emergency while it's in the house I don't want to rely on a python + hose to drain the tank because that took almost 45 minutes.
> 
> Will post again tomorrow.


Plumb a 'T' off of the return from your filter. I plumbed my FX5 to both drain from the tank as well as pull from a storage tank when I do water changes. As long as the filter media isn't clogged up, you can empty that tank in pretty short order. If you run 2 FX5's, I'd plumb both to drain. Even better.


----------



## kali (May 8, 2009)

depend on how thick of the silicon sometime could take a week to cure! i waited a week when i did my ..


----------



## Raul-7 (Oct 17, 2003)

kali said:


> why would you want to put styrofoam on that glass tank ?? doesn't help none , foam only need on the acrylic tank because the bottom is flat .the bottom of the glass tank only support at the 4 corners due to the frame on the bottom so the bottom isn't flat surface. is your stand factory or DIY? if DIY put the plywood on the top of the stand , you all set to go , if the stand is factory then just leave it like that .


It depends on the stand he's using but for your traditional stand (supports entire aquarium) you will need styrofoam because at that size uneven pressure points from the stand can easily cause cracks/breaks in the bottom panel.


----------



## kali (May 8, 2009)

Raul-7 said:


> It depends on the stand he's using but for your traditional stand (supports entire aquarium) you will need styrofoam because at that size uneven pressure points from the stand can easily cause cracks/breaks in the bottom panel.


no you dont ... my 210G just 40G less than his . DIY stand support entirely aquarium with the plywood on top, level right ( 3 year ) going...i had seen someone here 300 ( 96x24x30) same design ( i copy from him ) none wrong with it either , foam can be ad just unnecessary for glass tank, i did read some where if glass tank and stand from factory( dont remember which one) if you put foam in between somethings happend is avoid your warranty.! but try to order the acrylic tank ? they will tell you the other way around!


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Just a small update. 

I resealed the tank about 1.5 weeks ago, this time I used twice as much silicone. I was almost certain that the seal wouldn't hold because it looks very ugly. My wife was helping me smooth out the edges, but she got sick in the middle of it so I was trying to smooth the silicone, apply new silicone, and take off the masking tape all at once. What a stressful nightmare. 

But I got it done (looks horrible) and last night I filled it with water and no leaks as of 12 hours!

Will be posting some pics soon with different scapes, hoping to get some opinions.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well, I've been soaking the driftwood, which I now believe is Juniper. I got it from the shore of a lake within an hours drive from my house. 

It's really kind of a PIA to soak this driftwood because it is almost 6' long and the only place I can soak it is in the tank!
If it doesn't start to sink soon, I may just silicone it to the bottom of the tank and be done with it.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

You can tie rocks to the branch as weights to hold it down. I had the same problem with the branches for my 125. That way I could set up my scape and start planting while the wood was still soaking. After a couple of week I just untied my weights and pulled them out.

I am anxious to see your set up.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

isn't the silicon that's sandwiched between the 2 pieces if glass actually doing the sealing? i thought that the bead of silicone was just there as a added measure. maybe i remember it wrong.


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> isn't the silicon that's sandwiched between the 2 pieces if glass actually doing the sealing? i thought that the bead of silicone was just there as a added measure. maybe i remember it wrong.


Either one does the sealing, they just have both for added strength, I think. What you are thinking of is that on rimless tanks, the silicone sandwiched in the seams is what holds the tank together.

The swimming pool is BEASTLY


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Another quick update.

- I bought an Fluval FX5 brand new + 18 filtering pads + a deluxe test kit for 275 shipped. 

- I bought an Icecap 660 Ballast + Heatsink + Wiring Harness + 32" reflectors +T5 endcaps for 4 bulbs for 155.00 shipped. I plan on using 4 X 48" T5HO bulbs in a staggered configuration. The bulbs might look a little funny with only 32" reflectors, but when I get more money I'll get correct length reflectors! =)

- I bought 6 T5HO bulbs off the swap and shop, they were packed very good and shipped through UPS, however when I opened the package they were all broken in half. I put in a damage claim with UPS and I'm hoping they cover the full costs of the bulbs.

- Construction on the stand is going well, it's nearly competition. 

- I've been trying to come up with a good solution for a canopy because I really want glass tops, but I want to keep the lights as close as possible to the water. I've decided to use this design: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/786667-post84.html I like this design because once you lift the canopy up the glass/plexi opens at the same time. However since WP's tank was wood and he had overflows/plumbing he didn't have any over the top equipment. I decided that if I put a 2" Rim around the top and then mount the canopy to the rim, it will allow me to drill holes into the rim for equipment wiring/plumbing and provide a base for the hinges for the hood. 

Comments/ideas/questions?


----------



## FSM (Jan 13, 2009)

Sounds good, although putting the lights as close as possible to the water isn't a great idea. It will be extremely intense right beneath the lights which might cause green water. Raising them a few inches will have a far greater effect on the intensity at the surface than at the substrate.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

So maybe I should make the rim more like 4 inches? If the rim were 4 inches high the lights would probably be about 6" off the water.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

How is your tank coming along? It has been a while.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

yikesjason said:


> How is your tank coming along? It has been a while.


Thanks for asking, here's a quick update and pic!

We finished the stand and moved the tank into the garage. It was getting near freezing.

The driftwood has now been soaking for a very long time, the darned stuff still floats!

Over thanksgiving we will be driving to CA, we may stop in flagstaff and meet badcopnofishtank to buy some manzanita, we'll see if that works out or not. 

So here's the pic of the stand.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

That stand looks very nice. Good job.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

yikesjason said:


> That stand looks very nice. Good job.


Thanks! Although unfortunately I can take very little credit for the stand. I'm a horrible handyman, my grandpa does that type of work for me and I do all their computer/tech work for them! 

It's a pretty good trade off as neither of us knows a lick about what the other one does. 

The picture doesn't really do it justice, it kind of makes the woods' grain look pink and funny. I wanted two extra big doors, they are completely open from top to bottom. On the back side I left two sections uncovered, so that I could put all my equipment through. 

I'm still having a hard time picking out a canopy design, every time I think I have something figured out I come across some hiccup that I hadn't thought of. For instance, I initially wanted to have a very low to the water canopy, but then Tom Barr recommend that I have the lights about 9" off the water for distribution purposes. Then I decided I would hang the canopy from some conduit coming off the back of the tank, but then I remembered that we have a projector for a TV and the wall that the projector shines on is very close to fish tank. So any light "spillage" would reflect on the wall and make the projectors image not so great. As of now I'm thinking of having a 9" high canopy that rests on the rim of the tank and opens in an L shape. 

In other news, I found a 150G tank with stand, canister filter and other accessories for 125.00 on craigslist. The tank needs to be resealed, but I've done that before... (See page 2!) I don't really have the money for this 150G but for the price I couldn't pass it up. I may fix it and sell it, or I'm not sure...

Ideas?


----------



## skiboarder72 (Oct 13, 2006)

Love the stand! Great choice of wood!


----------



## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I remember this project from a couple of months ago. It looks like it is shaping up well. Can't wait to see it with fish and plants. That stand looks sharp. I like the exposed hinges.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

$125 for a 150 gal setup! A half decent canister for that size is almost as much!


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well, I picked up the 150G yesterday. 

Right when I saw it I knew It was going to be a smoking deal. It came with heaters/powerheads/tons of supplies/food/ and best of all, a Fluval FX5!!

I originally wanted to fix it up and sell it, but now I'm not sure...


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

Wow, nice steal of a deal. Is this a 6' or a 4' tank?


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

yikesjason said:


> Wow, nice steal of a deal. Is this a 6' or a 4' tank?


It's 6' X 24"H X 19"D

Should I fix it up and sell it, or what should I do with it?


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

That 240 is going to be quite a bit of work as it is. Adding another 150 might be more than you are going to want to deal with in the long run. I would say flip it and use the profits on the 240. That fx5 would easily sell for $125 or $150 used on MFK. I think if you reseal it, you should be able to make a few $100's from it.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Just a quick update.
The canopy is 95% done.

I ordered some more bulbs, once again they arrived at my house BROKEN! =(
It's getting really aggravating. 

I decided to sell the 180G, haven't put it up for sale yet though. 

Once the canopy is done and a shipment of bulbs arrives at my door, unbroken, I can start messing with the scape and putting up pictures. I'm hoping to have it inside and playing with scapes by the end of December. However if I don't reach that, I have a vacation to Ireland planned for the middle of January, so the tank would have to wait until the end of January.

Currently it's sitting in my detached garage with two power heads and heat lamp on it to keep it from freezing.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

topfrog007 said:


> Just a quick update.
> Currently it's sitting in my detached garage with two power heads and heat lamp on it to keep it from freezing.


Keeping it from freezing is a very good idea.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Finally got an update for you guys. 

The canopy is now complete! 
I think it looks amazing, camera pictures don't do it justice. 

All I really have left to do is get glass tops. 

Front View: (And the return of Helper Cat doing what he does best)









Inside View:









Front view, on ground.









Top down view... Holes are to let out heat/moisture.









Another top/front view...


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Where do people usually mount their ballasts? Not really sure where the safes/most efficient place would be.

Obviously if you put it inside the canopy it will be subjected to moisture and heat. Underneath/inside the stand and water might drip down wiring into the ballast, also you'd need a lot more wiring if underneath the stand.

Suggestions?

Also, I sold the 180G for $550.00... =)


----------



## thrak76 (Aug 3, 2009)

Wow. That canopy looks fantastic! I really like the contrast of the wood. Looking forward to seeing that huge tank come together...


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

Cool thread I just came across here...
That is one awesome tank. 

I really like how the canopy looks. The use of two contrasting types of wood really breaks up the "blockiness" that naturally comes with a huge tank like this...

As to the position of the ballasts: I would probably mount them to the inside of the rear wall of the canopy and add some more ventilation slots right above them. You can also think about drilling fan openings in the back to cool them.


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

That was another great job with the canopy. It looks a bit different from the stand picture. Did you stain the stand so the match?

You really made out like a bandit on that 180.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

thrak76 said:


> Wow. That canopy looks fantastic! I really like the contrast of the wood. Looking forward to seeing that huge tank come together...


Thanks, seems like I've been looking forward to seeing it all come together for an eternity!



Regloh said:


> Cool thread I just came across here...
> That is one awesome tank.
> 
> I really like how the canopy looks. The use of two contrasting types of wood really breaks up the "blockiness" that naturally comes with a huge tank like this...
> ...


Appreciate the suggestion, having the ballast over the water just kind of scares me, so I think I'll end up mounting it inside the stand.



yikesjason said:


> That was another great job with the canopy. It looks a bit different from the stand picture. Did you stain the stand so the match?
> 
> You really made out like a bandit on that 180.


The wood/stain on the stand is a little bit lighter than the canopy, the pictures just make it look worse because the camera is not so great; and the canopy pictures were taken inside and the stand pictures were taken outside with more light.


I came across some free 1/4" plexiglass/acrylic. I got 8 pieces of 24"W X 48"L. I was thinking about cutting them up and using them as a top.

Not sure if I really want to do the work for that, as A) plexiglass/acrylic is harder to keep clean (or so I've heard), and B) I'd have to find those little plastic connector pieces somewhere and use some sort of adhesive to secure multiple pieces together.


----------



## VadimShevchuk (Sep 19, 2009)

Nice profit on the other fish tank. Did ups pay you for the damaged bulbs?


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

VadimShevchuk said:


> Nice profit on the other fish tank. Did ups pay you for the damaged bulbs?


Yes they did.

Somehow, after the 2nd package I received was broken, the third package had 2 extra bulbs in it!

I e-mailed the vendor and they said to just keep them. :hihi:

I will just save them as extra's/backups.


----------



## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

Just came across this thread and WOW that stand and canopy are gorgeous! Your dad sure knows what he's doing! And I think that is a fantastic trade-off, your work for his work, that's how everything should be! :hihi: 

And holy wow is that tank a monster!!!! I can't wait to see it filled and planted!


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

How is your tank doing?


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Got a new job and moved the family and tank 1300 miles. Just trying to get settled and back into things. 

Still has never been setup. I had to leave my MTS behind. So as of now in order to get started all I need: MTS


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

You moved a 240 gal tank 1300 miles, but didn't bring a little bit of dirt? 

I am anxious to see your tank set up.


----------



## globali (May 29, 2010)

Very nice work so far.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

heh, yeah it was silly not to take the MTS. In my defense, I was always somewhat worried about the quality of top soil I mineralized, it was Wal-mart/Home Depot top soil and I was never quite sure it had no added chemicals. 

Seems like I'm constantly changing my mind on stocking/planting plans. CO2 and high tech is always an attractive option until I have to reach into the tank. I can't even touch the bottom of the tank if I lean my arm over the side.

So as of now I'm thinking stick with the plan, a low tech tank. However I've been thinking that I'll try an immersed start with *(Insert carpeting plant of the week)*

Recommendations?


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

*Update woodscape and hood!*

Quick update and a few pics for you guys.

I've been mineralizing some soil outside, I'm on my second cycle and I lost about 25% due to run off from rain! It rained over night and took 25% of my soil with it! Arrrrrggggghhhh.

I ordered 6"X12" of Dwarf Hairgrass which I'm going to break up into individual plantlets and grow immersed for a month or two. I figure this will really help in jump starting and establishing a nice carpet for a low tech tank.

I used a hot glue gun to attach a 20ft blue rope light to the inside of the canopy as a 9.99$ moonlight. 

Here is my woodscape, I plan to leave the space on the left open as a field of dwarf hair grass. I've always been fond of scapes with an open area on one side. The driftwood in the picture is actually 3 pieces of Manzanita.

Please provide some input on the scape, I'm always looking for suggestions!


----------



## MPevine11 (May 26, 2010)

that looks great!


----------



## plantedpufferfreak (Feb 2, 2010)

that does look cool! nice dw!


----------



## mattrt09 (Jun 12, 2010)

the tank is looking so nice! i love it


----------



## rountreesj (Jun 12, 2007)

advice: Make sure to use huge rocks if you use any, otherwise they will look too small. Driftwood looks good, possible move it a little to the left...

what's the planting list? I'd definitely suggest stems galore when you first set it up...


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

MPevine11 said:


> that looks great!


Thanks!



plantedpufferfreak said:


> that does look cool! nice dw!


Thank you, I think my problem is that I have too many pieces of DW, it's taken me a long time to decide on which to use.



mattrt09 said:


> the tank is looking so nice! i love it


Thanks



rountreesj said:


> advice: Make sure to use huge rocks if you use any, otherwise they will look too small. Driftwood looks good, possible move it a little to the left...
> 
> what's the planting list? I'd definitely suggest stems galore when you first set it up...


Appreciate the feedback, I don't have any plans for rocks ATM. Tonight I will try moving the driftwood to the left, I think it will look better like that.

I don't really have a planned list for plants. I know that I wanted to try a low tech carpet (Dwarf Hairgrass) and I know I'd like a few amazon swords. Other than that I'm open to whatever plants I can get and grow in my conditions. I'll probalby get a random package from someone on the SNS and see what does well and what doesn't.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well the dwarf hairgrass came in on Friday. So in between Thursday and before planting on Friday, I finished painting the back of the tank. 5 Coats of flat black - latex. 

Then I filled about 3/4" MTS to the bottom of the tank, followed by a 1-2" cap of 3M Colorquartz black which took a few hours. Followed by 4 hours of separating the dwarf hairgrass into small clumps and planting.

Overall Friday was extremely exhausting. I had been second guessing my choice of going low tech, but after hanging over the side of a tank 31" high all day, I realized I wanted to avoid trimming/planting as much as possible!

So for the now the soil is barely covered in water and there is seran wrap over the top of the tank. I've been doing lights on for 10 hours, but am wondering what everyone else does when growing emersed? Should I be doing anything other than providing light and making sure the soil is wet?

Here is a picture, I haven't yet figured out how to take a good picture with the lights on...


----------



## chris.rivera3 (Apr 15, 2008)

try to keep the moisture inside as much as possible...and don't forget to spray/mist


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Went to Walgreens to pick up a humidifer to place inside the tank to help with immeresed growth. I got the idea from AZfishKid's 150G journal, however I couldn't find any ultrasonic humidifiers at the Walgreens I went to, so I bought this one. Anyone know if it will still be effective?


----------



## The_Finglonger (Jun 21, 2010)

This is going to be a really beuatiful tank. I can't wait until it's filled in with water and fishies. :bounce:


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

The_Finglonger said:


> This is going to be a really beuatiful tank. I can't wait until it's filled in with water and fishies. :bounce:


Thank you! However I'm having my doubts!

The dwarf hairgrass is growing sooooo slow. Makes me wonder if I'm doing something wrong with dry start method or emmersed growth, as it's my first attempt at both.

It's almost been 4 weeks and about half the hairgrass has stood up, while the other half is laying down looking the exact same as when I planted it.

I have lights on for 10 hours a day, cyran wrap over the top. I mist the tank once a day with water/KNO3/KH2P04/Seachem equilbrium (Don't know if the equilbrium is worth doing or not...)


----------



## rountreesj (Jun 12, 2007)

i think the dhg just grows super duper slow immersed...


----------



## The_Finglonger (Jun 21, 2010)

Maybe glosso is the better way to go, then return to the the dwg once some other plants' roots have already been established in the substrate. 

Too much potential in this tank!


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

rountreesj said:


> i think the dhg just grows super duper slow immersed...


Oh, argh, I hope it starts growing faster soon!

I bought the DHG from someone who got a bunch of it out of a stream near their house. So it went from a natural submersed state to a Dry Start Method/Mineralized Top soil tank.

I'm hoping it is still trying to adapt to it's new environment and picks up soon.

Also, the 3M Colorquartz S grade really looks nice but is a PIA to plant. It's so fine that it sticks and covers all the leafs.



The_Finglonger said:


> Maybe glosso is the better way to go, then return to the the dwg once some other plants' roots have already been established in the substrate.
> 
> Too much potential in this tank!


I may have to get some glosso and see how it goes! We'll see how impatient I get. =)


----------



## Centromochlus (May 19, 2008)

*240G - WoodScape - Low Tech - No water changes * Update 2/3/2010*



topfrog007 said:


> Went to Walgreens to pick up a humidifer to place inside the tank to help with immeresed growth. I got the idea from AZfishKid's 150G journal, however I couldn't find any ultrasonic humidifiers at the Walgreens I went to, so I bought this one. Anyone know if it will still be effective?


Ahhhhhh that's so cool! Someone used my idea!  The one you got should be fine. Hope it's working out well for you.

Tank looks great. I like the driftwood.

You could try a marselia species for a carpet as well.


----------



## VadimShevchuk (Sep 19, 2009)

I also tried growing DHG imersed and it didnt grow fast at all. I highly recommend you just fill the tank becuase the DHg usually grows faster submerged.


----------



## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

Awesome start so far. Look forward to seeing this come together.


----------



## Digsy (Mar 4, 2006)

Subscribed. I'm loving your manzy!


----------



## justdaman (May 12, 2008)

rountreesj said:


> i think the dhg just grows super duper slow immersed...


i agree. i currently have an immersed setup in a 2.5gallon tank. it has been up for 3 months, i can barely see any difference with the dwarf hairgrass. i had more luck in my 50 gallon low with just 84 watts of lighting, co2, and ferts (not regular btw)


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

AzFishKid said:


> Ahhhhhh that's so cool! Someone used my idea!  The one you got should be fine. Hope it's working out well for you.
> 
> Tank looks great. I like the driftwood.
> 
> You could try a marselia species for a carpet as well.


Yeah I think the humidifier is a brilliant idea, anything I can do to automate an already boring task (misting) is a win in my book!

My only problem with the one I got is that it's super small, it holds like 6 OZ of water heh. 



VadimShevchuk said:


> I also tried growing DHG imersed and it didnt grow fast at all. I highly recommend you just fill the tank becuase the DHg usually grows faster submerged.


Might be a stupid question, but would submerging it in about 6" of water make it grow faster than if I were to fill the tank up all the way (31")?



talontsiawd said:


> Awesome start so far. Look forward to seeing this come together.


Thank you!



Digsy said:


> Subscribed. I'm loving your manzy!


Thanks, if only I were good at taking pictures everyone would be able to see the manzanita better.



justdaman said:


> i agree. i currently have an immersed setup in a 2.5gallon tank. it has been up for 3 months, i can barely see any difference with the dwarf hairgrass. i had more luck in my 50 gallon low with just 84 watts of lighting, co2, and ferts (not regular btw)


I feel your pain and it's only been about a month for me.
I thought I read that DHG grew really well immersed and that that's how it's grown and sold by aquatic companys. I'm definitely not seeing any evidence to back that up, unless I'm just doing something wrong!


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Well, my DSM has been a complete FAIL! Algae is now covering the entire bottom of the tank and starting to grow on the glass. I filled the tank up with a few inches of water, which seemed to help. The Algae isn't growing anymore, but I think the DHG is in too bad condition to make a comeback.

I've been thinking more and more about pressurized CO2, I've pretty much decided to use it. I'm hoping that my low light will limit plant growth to a level that doesn't require an "annoying" ammount of maintenance to me.

*So, my question is:* What is the best method for starting over, considering there is about 3-4" of water in the tank (20 Gallons?) and the entire bottom is covered with algae. Should I just drain the water, and turn off the lights? Should I use some kind of algae killer now that I don't have to worry about it killing any plants =( ?


----------



## VadimShevchuk (Sep 19, 2009)

I would just fill it up and let it carpet submerged. How did you get algae using DSM? Did you have pools of water standing or what? Usually i leave the water like 1/4" below the substrate. How much light were you blasting at it also?


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

VadimShevchuk said:


> I would just fill it up and let it carpet submerged. How did you get algae using DSM? Did you have pools of water standing or what? Usually i leave the water like 1/4" below the substrate. How much light were you blasting at it also?


I had a tiny little pool at one point, but I noticed the algae when it was dry. It started smothering the DHG. Then I flooded the tank with a few inches of water which seemed to make the algae shrink, but the DHG showed no improvements.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

topfrog007 said:


> Well, my DSM has been a complete FAIL! Algae is now covering the entire bottom of the tank and starting to grow on the glass. I filled the tank up with a few inches of water, which seemed to help. The Algae isn't growing anymore, but I think the DHG is in too bad condition to make a comeback.
> 
> I've been thinking more and more about pressurized CO2, I've pretty much decided to use it. I'm hoping that my low light will limit plant growth to a level that doesn't require an "annoying" ammount of maintenance to me.
> 
> *So, my question is:* What is the best method for starting over, considering there is about 3-4" of water in the tank (20 Gallons?) and the entire bottom is covered with algae. Should I just drain the water, and turn off the lights? Should I use some kind of algae killer now that I don't have to worry about it killing any plants =( ?


Still trying to decide what to do... Any opinions?


----------



## Quesenek (Sep 26, 2008)

topfrog007 said:


> Still trying to decide what to do... Any opinions?


With your lighting I would definitely go with the Co2. 
I wouldn't worry too much about the maintenance with a 32" tall tank the plants have a while to grow before they reach the top; However I would look at some slower growers. (I.E. not Anacharis god that thing grows 5ft a week)


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

What should I do about the current swamp? Nuke it with some kind of algae remover, just drain the water and let it dry out?


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I'd nuke it with some Excel, and then get your CO2 and fill up the tank.


----------



## Chasintrades (Oct 11, 2009)

Laura Lee - How would you Nuke a DSM with Excel?


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

LOL

Flood it first!


----------



## malaybiswas (Nov 2, 2008)

I am not sure how much choice you will have with all those fish. Also some of the fish like Mollies can out compete others (like rummynose) for food. I would go with a 2-3 varieties of tetras and bottom feeders like corys and pleco (although they would be late additions after ground cover plants are well established).


----------



## Chasintrades (Oct 11, 2009)

Isn't green slime BGA?


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Hey all,

Here is another update. I promise one day I'll get this tank going.

I recently purchased a Matheson 3861 dual stage regulator, a post body kit via YikesJason and a 15lb steel CO2 tank. Total cost = $180.00

I plan on injecting CO2 into the intake of the FX5 like user Calvert has done.

I suppose I'll have to change the thread title now that it's not low tech! My overall goal is a balance betweeen healthy stabilized plant growth, no algae and minimal maintenance. I don't care how fast the plants grow, just want them to be healthy with no algea. I guess this would be called "medium tech"?

I think I'm going to go with the EI method of dosing. I've tested tap water paramaters here at my new house, will post the results. Looks like PH is pretty high 8+.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Here are the test results of my tap water:

Hardness __ 75 PPM
Alkalinity __ 300 PPM
PH __ 8.5

Was hoping that my new place would have softer water than the my past house, but nope...


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Oh no... what's going on?









So I was randomly browsing craigslist and someone in my area was selling a bunch of tanks for a great price. Including a 240G Pre Drilled oceanic tank only 2 years old. I couldn't just buy the 240G so I bought the entire set which was: 240G Oceanic PreDrilled, 180Gallon (rim broken) 150Gallon (straight patch job, looks really ghetto), 75Gallon and 4 X 55Gallon. Also included were numerous HOB filters, 3 X Magnum 350's, 2 UV sterlizers, and a couple powerheads. I picked all this up for 600.00 Not bad eh?

I replaced my 240G with the new one because A) it looks much nicer, and B) it's pre-drilled.










I have the bulkheads and fittings to get my FX5 setup using the drilled holes. 
I have a question I'm hoping someone can help with:

*The new 240G has 5 Pre-drilled holes. 3 on the left and 2 on the right. I only need two for my FX5, where should I place the Input/Output? Should they be on opposite ends, or next to each other?*


----------



## bigboij (Jul 24, 2009)

haha, My girl would flip if i came home with that many tanks.


----------



## gregpxc (Jul 19, 2010)

Opposite ends for better filtration. Thats just IME with saltwater though. If you put them next to eachother you could end up filtering the same water multiple times. It's good circulation too. But, if that's not a worry then I would just assume personal preference.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Finally got everything I needed and started this up again exactly one week ago.

Lots of little leaks from the bulkheads when filling, slowly and carefully tightened them until they stopped. 










I have filled the water up just enough to cover in the intake/outtake of the filters, and I guess I'll keep the water level here until the plants start doing better.

I got a bunch of plants from the Swap N shop, Dwarf hairgrass, glosso and HC. The glosso melted when I put it in and is pretty much all dead. The Dwarf hairgrass is getting BGA all over it.

At first I was injecting CO2 directly into the input of the FX5 and hoping that would be sufficient, apparently not as the drop checker never changed. I built a Rex Grigg style reactor and now am getting light green on the drop checker.

I'm dosing EI method for a 125G tank (since this is half full). Lights on for 8 hours a day.










Sorry for the poor quality picture, I can never seem to photograph these tanks! Anyways, this is just after lights on, drop checker blue and you can see that damn BGA on the hairgrass.

Any advice? 

Some ideas I've had:
- Maybe I need to add a powerhead to increase flow.
- Get some fast growing plants.
- More lighting?


----------



## BoxxerBoyDrew (Oct 16, 2005)

Just read through the whole post, and WOW You have all the luck finding good deals on Tanks!!!!:flick:

The Stand and Canopy look really good!!! The setup is going to be AWESOME when it gets up and running 10% I am SUPER JEALOUS!!!!

AS for plants, IMO I would buy a BUNCH of bunch plants and plant the tank heavy with them!!! Al least until the tank gets some age on it. That way the bunch plants will out compete the algae for the extra nutrients while the slower growers can still use what they need! 

Other thank that just watch your water parameters and keep up the GREAT WORK!!! I can hardly wait to see it fill in!!!

Tack Care and Fight the Algae!!
Drew


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Ordered some BGA remover. I know it's fix for the issue, not the underlying problem. However I'm hoping with the BGA gone the plants will do better and prevent it from coming back.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Just thought I would mention that after I used the BGA remover and did a 1 day blackout all the BGA died and hasn't come back. 

Then I started to get long strands of brown hair algae. I cut back my lights to 8 hours and stopped dosing plantex CSM+B and it's really died off. 

Dwarf hairgrass looking pretty healthy but grown is pretty slow, stem plants are growing like weeds. 

Added 25-35 Red cherry shrimp.

Will post some pictures soon.


----------



## Alastair-T (Jun 5, 2011)

Wow That's a really nice tank and glad you've sorted The BGA. it's usually down to flow that I've experienced that. With the dwarf hairgrass, try giving it a really good trim, that encourages it to send out new runners under the substrate and also helps to not get algae covered whilst it settles in. 

Would love to see how you built your reactor for your fx5. I was running co2 into my inlet but half way through the day started getting co2 build up inside and lots of bubbles being blown back out.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

These pictures are about a month old, here you can see the brown hair algae covering lots of things. It actually got much worse than this.

I got rid of it by reducing my lighting from 10 hours to 8, stopped dosing plantex CSM + B and manually removed as much as I felt like.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Here is the tank as of 8/28/2011:










Left side of tank: Here the dwarf hairgrass. The Riccia really loves growing on it and hogging all its light, pretty annoying!









Right side of tank:









Some RCS:


----------



## 2in10 (Feb 8, 2011)

Like the hardscape, this will great to see as it continues to fill in.


----------



## Ashok (Dec 11, 2006)

Looks like most of the algae is gone?

Nice wood scape, should be wonderfull once it starts to fill in.


----------



## SIKULIBERKAS (Mar 26, 2011)

i love that "iwawoody style"  roud: roud:


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

2in10 said:


> Like the hardscape, this will great to see as it continues to fill in.


Thanks! The hardscape is probably my favorite part of the tank thus far.



Ashok said:


> Looks like most of the algae is gone?
> 
> Nice wood scape, should be wonderfull once it starts to fill in.


Indeed most of the Algae is gone. I have BBA growing all over my driftwood and parts of dwarf hair grass. It's growing so well that it even pearls... I actually kind of like the look on the driftwood, however on the DHG it looks bad IMO.



SIKULIBERKAS said:


> i love that "iwawoody style"  roud: roud:


Hehe yeah. My goal is to have the space on the left just be a lush open "field" ... not sure if it'll ever end up looking like that though.


----------



## topfrog007 (Dec 30, 2007)

Entire setup is For sale:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/swap-n-shop/166985-beautiful-230gallon-complete-setup-sale.html


----------

