# ADA Gray Parts CO2 line keeps popping off diffuser



## ADAtank (Jul 26, 2011)

is the diffuser ADA as well? If so try keeping everything dry before you put it on or maybe try to use a new piece


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## bereninga (Mar 18, 2006)

Yep. The diffuser is an ADA Pollen Glass Large 20. I will try fitting it dry and see if that helps. Thanks for the tip!


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

Lower your working pressure.


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## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

Jeff5614 said:


> Lower your working pressure.


The pressure in the line is dependent on the flow rate through the needle valve and the resistance of the diffuser, lowering his working pressure wont alter pressure in the tube - only lowering your bubble count will do that.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Chlorophile said:


> The pressure in the line is dependent on the flow rate through the needle valve and the resistance of the diffuser, lowering his working pressure wont alter pressure in the tube - only lowering your bubble count will do that.


This is incorrect. 

A flow control valve has nothing to do with pressure. It controls flow, that's it. The regulator itself is what sets the working pressure. The working pressure is what's in the line going to the diffuser. It's flow rate is set by the needle vale.


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## samamorgan (Dec 31, 2011)

The pressure in the tube with some form of diffuser on it is dependent on the pressure at which the diffuser releases Co2.


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## galabar (Oct 19, 2011)

samamorgan said:


> The pressure in the tube with some form of diffuser on it is dependent on the pressure at which the diffuser releases Co2.


That actually doesn't have to be the case. You can raise the pressure higher than the diffuser can handler. Not all CO2 will escape quickly enough and the pressure will build up higher than the "working" or "cracking" pressure of the diffuser.


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## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> This is incorrect.
> 
> A flow control valve has nothing to do with pressure. It controls flow, that's it. The regulator itself is what sets the working pressure. The working pressure is what's in the line going to the diffuser. It's flow rate is set by the needle vale.


...lowering your working pressure won't affect the pressure in the co2 line. That is determined solely by the amount of pressure needed to force gas through the diffuser media.

Altering the working pressure will change flow rate, so yea if you raise it you will change the pressure in the co2 line.

But assume you want a constant flow rate.
You can set your working pressure to 5psi, if that's enough to push co2 through the diffuser then raising your working pressure will increase bubble count/flow rate, that would increase pressure in the co2 line, but if you reduce flow rate to maintain a specific bubble rate the psi will be what is needed to push enough co2 through the diffuser to maintain that flow rate...
That's pretty irrefutable.
Working pressure obviously alters the psi in co2 line, but If your maintaining a constant flow rate then the pressure in the line is the same no matter the working pressure, I.e whatever is needed to purge at that rate......


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## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

If co2 exits diffuser faster than is supplied by needle valve pressure falls.. If co2 enters faster than it can exit then pressure rises.. This is independent of working pressure... It's relative to input vs exhaust, working pressure just controls the limit of pressure build up, if pressure on the outside of regulator exceeds working pressure then regulator doesn't permit more gas to exit...

This should be obvious because if you remove restrictions from outlet the working pressure gauge reads 0.


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## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

A more restrictive diffuser or a higher flow rate are all that effects line pressure.. I could set working pressure to 60 but Have 0 psi in the line if I shut the needle valve. I can open the needle valve and psi in the line is NOT instantly 60, if it were loads of co2 would come out of the diffuser. Huge bubbles.

You might be confused because it doesn't work the other way, a low working pressure wont allow pressure to build up until it is high enough to go through the diffuser, but that's obvious, working pressure is the limit, not the minimum.
Hope that clears things up.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

^ I'm sorry, but you still don't get it.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

what air hose you use?

get a slightly smaller ID air hose will fix the problem.

Oldpunk, pm'ed.

Chlorophile, friend request sent.


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## Chlorophile (Aug 2, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> ^ I'm sorry, but you still don't get it.


Maybe you could explain it to me then? 
I'm 99.9% on this. 

Take the diffuser off your co2 line and then tell me that psi in the line is = to working pressure? 
It is not.
:flick:


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Chlorophile said:


> Maybe you could explain it to me then?
> I'm 99.9% on this.
> 
> Take the diffuser off your co2 line and then tell me that psi in the line is = to working pressure?
> ...


Sorry dude, I totally miss read one of your posts. I should have been more diligent with my reading before I accused you of being wrong.

I would also like to aim an apology at the op for cluttering up your thread. I hope your issue has been resolved.


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## Mr. Fisher (Mar 24, 2009)

What I'd do is cut a 1/2" section of your gray tubing off. Dip the end of the diffuser's glass stem in water. Start the gray tubing on the stem of the diffuser. Use a paper towel to get a grip on the gray tubing. While holding the tubing with the paper towel, rotate the diffuser stem and the tubing back and forth (clockwise and counter clockwise) while pushing with the tube/paper towel side onto the stem of the diffuser. 

Don't force anything. Hold the diffuser by the stem, not the body. 

The ADA parts kit is designed to work with their diffusers. Make sure that the tubing is >1/2" on the stem of the diffuser. It won't pop off.


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