# Fugeray Planted + 20" PAR



## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

I offer this up to those that may find it useful. I put a 20" planted + on my 10 gallon CO2 tank and took some par readings using one of the diy meters that hoppy shows how to make. Some are going to chime in and say you can't get accurate readings with the red lights, but were not making rocket ships here either so I figure these numbers are good enough for me.

Light about 1.5 inches above water line. These numbers are under water.

Top at 1.5" - 229par
Mid at 5" - 85par
Bottom at 10" - 38par

I was looking for lower numbers so I tucked a single layer of gray window screen over the lens and now have:

Top - 134par
Mid - 51par
Bottom - 21par


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## falcooo (Sep 30, 2011)

Awesome, thanks for the data. I know a ton of people were wondering about this, myself included.


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## mattinmd (Aug 16, 2014)

Thank you for sharing your numbers.

Did you use one with the Excelitas diode?

Personally, I think as long as you are aware of the limitations of the sensor, using the information is just fine.

Using a biased par meter for comparison of front-to-back light spread, how much dimming you get from screens, etc is perfectly valid and worthwhile. 

Even using it for a "I have at least this much light, possibly more" is also reasonable, you just need to realize where your meter's spectral cutoffs are in relation to your output.

Trying to use them as a number of absolute truth in comparison with other products doesn't work out so well, and you could be heavily mislead by such things.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

mattinmd said:


> Thank you for sharing your numbers.
> 
> Did you use one with the Excelitas diode?
> 
> ...


No clue on the diode. The meter is the lux meter hoppy recommended on eBay for $15. Then you drill the hole in the dust cover, etc.


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## mattinmd (Aug 16, 2014)

Fair enough.

If you read this thread, there's multiple variations on the Hoppy meter, and I was wondering if you had replaced the diode for wider spectral response or not:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=509705

Since the included diode is pretty narrow and responds poorly at 450nm (peak of the white LEDs) and 660nm (peak of the red LEDs), bear in mind your numbers could be rather on the low side.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Thank you jrill. I have been wondering about that light fixture for a 10g tank for a while now.
Now if you might be so kind as to furnish a picture of a 10g tank with it on there so we can see the difference between that and a more inexpensive/conventional T8 bulb. I have two 10g tanks/w T8 bulbs on them.
One bulb per tank. This gives me adequate viewing light in every aria
of the tank. I can see the top edges of the water line at the back of the tank as well as I can see everything else in there provided there is no shadow from a plant. I really would like a picture of the tank/w the 
Planted+ so as to compare them.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

Raymond S. said:


> Thank you jrill. I have been wondering about that light fixture for a 10g tank for a while now.
> Now if you might be so kind as to furnish a picture of a 10g tank with it on there so we can see the difference between that and a more inexpensive/conventional T8 bulb. I have two 10g tanks/w T8 bulbs on them.
> One bulb per tank. This gives me adequate viewing light in every aria
> of the tank. I can see the top edges of the water line at the back of the tank as well as I can see everything else in there provided there is no shadow from a plant. I really would like a picture of the tank/w the
> Planted+ so as to compare them.


Hope this helps. this is with the screen over lens of planted+.


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## falcooo (Sep 30, 2011)

How exactly did you "tuck window screen"? Did you just lay a screen on the lid to filter the light? Do you have any close up pictures? I may need to do a similar kind of rig. Thanks.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

I just cut it longer than the lens, held it over where the legs go and slid the legs on over the screen. There was enough tension to then hold it in place.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

Hope this is clear


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## falcooo (Sep 30, 2011)

Okay, I see. Does it get hot being that close to the lights? Even if it does, it that a big deal?


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

It does not seem to get hot enough to hurt anything or melt the screen. When you use the light the screen does sag just a bit so its not actually touching the lens except at the ends.


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## falcooo (Sep 30, 2011)

Thanks. I'm going to give this a shot soon. 

Another option however, have you considered growing out some floaters to reduce the light? That was my original plan before I saw your screen idea.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

Yes but your light levels tend to be hit or miss. Been there, tried that.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

The other think I thought about doing was using those channels on the light for the legs for splines like in a window screen. U would just have to find something thin enough to use as spline material to hold the screen in.


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## StrangeDejavu (Jun 23, 2014)

Great idea, I just rigged my Finnex 12" up with screen in the same way you show in your photos. I taped one end since I cut it too short, it's not sagging that much. Gonna keep an eye on it and make sure it doesn't melt or get too hot.


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