# DIY aquarium stand, what to paint exposed plywood?



## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Shellac @ Home Depot. Two coats with a cheap roller.


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## AlonsoOrtiz (Sep 7, 2017)

Coming from a woodworker. shellac would be good and would work perfectly but I would recommend an oil based varnish it?s the best in terms of water proofing 



Maryland Guppy said:


> Shellac @ Home Depot. Two coats with a cheap roller.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Well ,, Conversion varnish or laminate.. 

https://www.pittsburghsprayequip.co...rethane-vs-conversion-varnish-wood-finishing/


Neither are really easy nor inexpensive though..

anyways:


> Varnish which includes polyurethane and conversion varnish is the most durable of the finishes. It protects well against heat, solvents, acids, wear, alkyds, and water.
> Pros of Varnish
> 
> Resistance to heat, wear, solvents, acids, and alkalis – the crosslinking of resin molecules result in an extremely durable finish. It takes significant exposure to solvents, acids, alkalis, or heat to damage a varnish finish
> ...


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Hd has some roll on poly.


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## goodbytes (Aug 18, 2014)

I like the Minwax Polyshades, stain and poly in one. Three coats seems to provide a pretty good seal. Some people have a hard time applying it because it is rather viscous but I've never had any trouble with it. Both times I used it was during the dead of summer though.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

goodbytes said:


> I like the Minwax Polyshades, stain and poly in one. Three coats seems to provide a pretty good seal. Some people have a hard time applying it because it is rather viscous but I've never had any trouble with it. Both times I used it was during the dead of summer though.


It depends on the color. I've tried the bombay mahogany a few times and the color is way too streaky.



Maryland Guppy said:


> Shellac @ Home Depot. Two coats with a cheap roller.


Shellac is, well basically, the poop from a lac bug. It is mixed with denatured alcohol (moonshine with chemicals added to make it poisonous) and it doesn't like water. A glass set on it with condensation will cause water rings.

Best finish would be a polyurethane, either oil or water. All six sides should be done. Especially the end grain. When it cures it is basically a sheet of plastic.

Avoid getting water on furniture finished with shellac. If you have a spill, wipe it up immediately. Shellac is a high-gloss finish that doesn't stand up to moisture well. Other surface finishes are a little better, but you should avoid letting wood get wet when you can.

http://articles.chicagotribune.com/2000-10-08/news/0010080446_1_wood-furniture-polishes-lacquer


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Sorry all, I though this was under the tank to be only used as a sealant.


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Thanks everyone. Another question:

Should I water proof the entire frame? It will have wood panel exterior.


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## lbacha (Apr 13, 2011)

What type of wood paneling are you using? If it's a laminate some don't need to be waterproofed. Otherwise I would recommend polyurethane, I personally use water Based as it's easier to clean up. I usually do 5-6 thin coats vs 1 thick coat as it looks a lot better


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## AlonsoOrtiz (Sep 7, 2017)

Shellac isn?t the poop of the lac bug rather the ?caccoon? it forms when it is metamorphisizing into its final stage of life. Shellac does hold up very well to water it isn?t a high gloss finish per se rather it can be if buffed out properly or if frenchpolished which I think would be overkill on a fish stand. Shellac holds up very well to water it can withstand standing water for several hours without being affected it can even withstand alcohol for a few minutes before it starts to burn. Maybe you?ve had bad results with it before but to my experience shellac is amazing and extremely water resistant.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

AlonsoOrtiz said:


> Shellac isn?t the poop of the lac bug rather the ?caccoon? it forms when it is metamorphisizing into its final stage of life. Shellac does hold up very well to water it isn?t a high gloss finish per se rather it can be if buffed out properly or if frenchpolished which I think would be overkill on a fish stand. Shellac holds up very well to water it can withstand standing water for several hours without being affected it can even withstand alcohol for a few minutes before it starts to burn. Maybe you?ve had bad results with it before but to my experience shellac is amazing and extremely water resistant.


Actually it is a resin secreted by the female lac. It is not a cocoon. More like a tunnel as they traverse the tree branches. The insects suck the sap of the tree and excrete "sticklac" almost constantly. 

The information about water resistance is from noted woodworkers, not from my experiences. And the links were provided. In all honesty I haven't used shellac as a top coat in over 30 years. There are way better, longer lasting finishes out there that are fairly easy to use and are more resistant to water and chemicals.
Polys would be the better choice at any rate and the water based polys are easy to use. But they do give a stark finish unlike the amber tint of an oil poly. I am able to do three coats in one day with water base. I normally do a total of 6. If you're looking for a satin or matte finish do the first coats with the gloss. Let your last coat or two be the satin or matte and you won't have the flattening agents clouding the finish. 

To the OP. Yes, I would use poly on all of the stand to keep the same sheen so it looks right.

As an aside. Shellac is food safe once dried. In fact it is used as a coating for many medicines.

Bump:


Maryland Guppy said:


> Sorry all, I though this was under the tank to be only used as a sealant.


Shellac really isn't a sealer in this regard. It is used as a sealer between dissimilar top coats and also as a sealer for resins from woods like pine that are sappy. Also for odors. Not for water however.


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## AlonsoOrtiz (Sep 7, 2017)

Adding some more light to the topic here is a sheet that shows most finishes and their pros and cons.


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Thanks, looks like varnish is the answer.

Duralux Marine Paint 1 qt. Clear Spar Varnish-M738-4 - The Home Depot


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## lbacha (Apr 13, 2011)

Marine varnish while waterproof is definitely overkill for what you are doing. It is also a lot harder to apply and keep from streaking as it's a lot thicker than polyurethane


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## AlonsoOrtiz (Sep 7, 2017)

Agreed with that. Marine varnish is extremely hard to apply properly. You wouldn?t need something so water resistant a regular varnish would be plenty


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

lbacha said:


> Marine varnish while waterproof is definitely overkill for what you are doing. It is also a lot harder to apply and keep from streaking as it's a lot thicker than polyurethane
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Marine/Spar varnish is just a long oil varnish to make it flexible and can usually be thinned with mineral spirits. It has UV additives and has a higher oil content ratio than interior varnish. It does not dry hard, but rather stays flexible to cope with outdoor conditions. It can take a very long time to completely dry.
You can thin it enough to actually use it as a wiping varnish. Wiping varnish is nothing more than a thinned varnish. I used marine varnish on the outside of my mahogany entryway and regular poly on the inside with no noticeable difference in application problems. Using a quality product also makes a big difference and so does a quality brush.

Using it on a stand made to be indoors is a waste of the benefits of the product. The water resistant abilities are about the same as indoor varnishes/polys. The difference is the flexibility to stay adhered to a wood that will contract and expand as temperatures vary and the UV inhibitors to slow degradation of the finish when exposed to the sun.


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## aotf (Dec 19, 2016)

As far as ease of use and durability go, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat a can of spray-on satin poly. It'll be durable and waterproof without breaking the bank (~$7 on amazon?) or requiring an expert to apply.

Spray on light coats in an area without too much ventilation (slower curing but less dust settling onto the uncured poly) every couple hours for 3-5 coats. It doesn't hurt to shelter whatever you're spraying as it cures to prevent dust from falling onto it. Let cure for a couple days in a well-ventilated area and you're good to go.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

aotf said:


> As far as ease of use and durability go, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat a can of spray-on satin poly. It'll be durable and waterproof without breaking the bank (~$7 on amazon?) or requiring an expert to apply.
> 
> Spray on light coats in an area without too much ventilation (slower curing but less dust settling onto the uncured poly) every couple hours for 3-5 coats. It doesn't hurt to shelter whatever you're spraying as it cures to prevent dust from falling onto it. Let cure for a couple days in a well-ventilated area and you're good to go.


I've used the spray poly once. Never again. The overspray is terrible and sticky as all get out. Plus it needs to be sprayed in a well ventilated area.

Point to note. All of these finishes whether brushed, sprayed, or wipe on must be done in a well ventilated area. Even the low VOC ones.

The water based polys are in fact faster drying and unlike the oil can be recoated in a matter of 3 hours.


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## aotf (Dec 19, 2016)

GraphicGr8s said:


> I've used the spray poly once. Never again. The overspray is terrible and sticky as all get out. Plus it needs to be sprayed in a well ventilated area.
> 
> Point to note. All of these finishes whether brushed, sprayed, or wipe on must be done in a well ventilated area. Even the low VOC ones.
> 
> The water based polys are in fact faster drying and unlike the oil can be recoated in a matter of 3 hours.


That's interesting, I've tried wipe-on poly more times than I can count and I always end up visible streaking no matter what I did. Spray-on was the only way I could get the finish I wanted so I would do my first couple coats with wipe-on and then the last super thin layer with a can (it's not expensive to buy one but it's more expensive than wipe-on and it adds up if you use a lot). Which brand did you use? 

My experience with wipe-on seems to be the exception rather than the rule, though. The consensus I've heard is that wipe-on poly is so easy you have to _try_ to mess it up. I'm just special :crying:


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## lbacha (Apr 13, 2011)

Spray polyurethane works it's just messy as stated above, as for how I apply it I do very light coats with a foam brush I then sand it with a 400 grit sand paper, wipe up the dust with a damp cloth and then reapply. You can do the first few coats quickly as you can sand away imperfections but take your time on the last few coats as you don't want to sand the last coat just buff it out


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

aotf said:


> That's interesting, I've tried wipe-on poly more times than I can count and I always end up visible streaking no matter what I did. Spray-on was the only way I could get the finish I wanted so I would do my first couple coats with wipe-on and then the last super thin layer with a can (it's not expensive to buy one but it's more expensive than wipe-on and it adds up if you use a lot). Which brand did you use?
> 
> My experience with wipe-on seems to be the exception rather than the rule, though. The consensus I've heard is that wipe-on poly is so easy you have to _try_ to mess it up. I'm just special :crying:


It's all a matter of proper technique and the quality of your brush. My preferred method of application is with a brush. A good brush. I apply all coats without any thinning. The first coat I know is going to be more of a sealing coat and I don't sand it. The next coat I apply and I do sand that one. Actually I use steel wool. The third coat I sand but I am also trying to level the coat out. That gets rid of the brush marks, dust nibs etc. If I am only doing three coats I also will sand that one with a wet paper and use a spray on "wax" like pledge. When it's done you can slide a rag from one end to the other like you would on a freshly waxed car. 
If I am inclined to go another coat then I save the wet sanding for that one.
As I have said earlier if I am after a satin coat the last coat is the only one I apply the satin poly to. All the rest are gloss.

I follow the same procedure for water based which is what I am using lately. I can get more coats done in less time. And less cleanup. With a water based I never use steel wool because if a single stand is left it can rust. And that just sucks. I also do 6 coats with the WB and I am not as particular with the brush. Here I will use a foam brush. 

I also don't worry much about getting bubbles in the can of finish. Oil will generally stay wet long enough for them to pop. Don't get me wrong. I try not to get the bubbles and I don't shake the can but I don't worry about it if it does get shaken.

One thing to remember about poly and varnish. Unlike lacquer and shellac that melt the layer below and bond to it as one varnish does not. It is simple on top of the last layer and you can sand through one and it is noticeable. I did that to my kitchen table. Pissed me off to no end. Some day I will go back, sand a bit off and give it a couple of more coats.

Use a tack rag to clean up the sanding residue.


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

aotf said:


> As far as ease of use and durability go, I think you'd be hard pressed to beat a can of spray-on satin poly. It'll be durable and waterproof without breaking the bank (~$7 on amazon?) or requiring an expert to apply.
> 
> Spray on light coats in an area without too much ventilation (slower curing but less dust settling onto the uncured poly) every couple hours for 3-5 coats. It doesn't hurt to shelter whatever you're spraying as it cures to prevent dust from falling onto it. Let cure for a couple days in a well-ventilated area and you're good to go.


Thanks. That's the ticket.


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## aotf (Dec 19, 2016)

ChrisX said:


> Thanks. That's the ticket.


My recommendation would be to do a test run on a smaller piece of scrap since --as you may have gathered from the above discussion-- _all_ methods of finishing wood require a little finesse and you don't want to mess up your critical piece on your first try.

Getting _best_ results require a bit more work and equipment (sand-paper/steel wool between coats) and you can get religious about the way to apply your finish to get that perfect finish. I'd recommend a little research and a test run before going all in.

Best of luck!


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## lbacha (Apr 13, 2011)

Something else to think about is the surface you are starting with. If you want a furniture grade finish you need to make sure the surface has been sanded and is smooth. A little extra effort here will go a long ways towards a really nice looking cabinet


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

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lbacha said:


> Something else to think about is the surface you are starting with. If you want a furniture grade finish you need to make sure the surface has been sanded and is smooth. A little extra effort here will go a long ways towards a really nice looking cabinet
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Good point. Just be careful about sanding through the plywood veneer. Some woods, like oak and mahogany do better with a filler to level out the grain. That's part of the steps used by the pros to get that glass smooth finish.


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## lbacha (Apr 13, 2011)

I build my last 2 stands out of edge joined aspen, it's a lot cheaper than hardwoods and easy to work with. In very impressed with it so far. I would use it for a table or something that needs to handle wear and tear but for an aquarium stand it great


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

Spar varnish imparts a very yellow hue to any wood it is applied to. This is great for a dark wood like walnut, Ipe or even cherry. But it is too yellow for a light wood like maple for my tastes. A very commonly used finish consists of 1/3 spar varnish, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (or tung oil) and 1/3 turpentine. It works well for wiping, painting or spraying.

For a lighter wood like maple I would use water based polyurethane. It is very rugged and does not have the same yellow hue of oil based varnishes. Lacquer is also a nice finish for blond woods but it is not as tough as water or oil based poly.

If you want to paint your stand Bondo auto body filler is excellent for filling in gaps, divets and even grain. It sets very quick, sands easy and holds very very well to wood. I use it on all my painted projects.


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Oughtsix said:


> Spar varnish imparts a very yellow hue to any wood it is applied to. This is great for a dark wood like walnut, Ipe or even cherry. But it is too yellow for a light wood like maple for my tastes. A very commonly used finish consists of 1/3 spar varnish, 1/3 boiled linseed oil (or tung oil) and 1/3 turpentine. It works well for wiping, painting or spraying.
> 
> For a lighter wood like maple I would use water based polyurethane. It is very rugged and does not have the same yellow hue of oil based varnishes. Lacquer is also a nice finish for blond woods but it is not as tough as water or oil based poly.
> 
> If you want to paint your stand Bondo auto body filler is excellent for filling in gaps, divets and even grain. It sets very quick, sands easy and holds very very well to wood. I use it on all my painted projects.


All of the oil based polys and varnishes impart an amber tint to the project. The water based gloss is a stark sheen to it but no tinting.

Lacquer is a type of plastic. In fact nitrocellulose lacquer is also used to make the fuse of fireworks waterproof.

Bondo glazing putty is a great idea to get a nice smooth surface. Get it smooth enough and use enough coats of paint you could polish it to a mirror finish.


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