# Finnex Planted+



## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

Anyone hear about the new Finnex Planted+ LED? I was inquiring about a light and they told me about it. Said it should be available in early Nov. I did a search here and didn't find anything.


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

I have this light as an early sweepstakes winner. Its brighter than the fugeray, a step less than the RAYII and incorporate RED and Blue LEDs like the Satellite LED+. The only difference is the Satellite offers dim adjustment where the Finnex are fixed. 

This fixture runs over my shrimp tanks and it keeps ricca dense and thick without CO2 injection. This is a sure sign that the light is sufficient for plants over a 20G High tank. If you have any specific questions, feel free to post or pm.


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## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

Lucky you! If it is a step down from the Ray II, maybe I shouldn't get it. I was thinking of putting two 30" on my 120. It would be 23" from substrate sitting directly on glass top. I was worried about the colors being washed out with the RayII. I want as much light as possible without CO2.


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## larams67 (Jan 24, 2006)

Just keep in mind those 30" Ray II's are really just 24" lights in a larger fixture. 

I believe that the planted+ 30" will actually be a 30" light inside however.


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## Brian_Cali77 (Mar 19, 2010)

flutterbug said:


> Lucky you! If it is a step down from the Ray II, maybe I shouldn't get it. I was thinking of putting two 30" on my 120. It would be 23" from substrate sitting directly on glass top. I was worried about the colors being washed out with the RayII. I want as much light as possible without CO2.


I think with two Ray 2's you'd need co2 or heavy glut (excel) dosing. You'd be better off with two Fugeray Planted+ lights IMO. I've used two Ray 2's on a 21" tall tank before... everything grew like a jungle (including algae) but all my red plants faded to green eventually. It's too washed out. The red diodes will make a positive difference. Colors would pop more. 

For a tall tank, however, those BuildmyLED (BML) fixtures are also great to consider. The dimmer option is highly beneficial in dialing in just the right amount of light.


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

The new planted+ fixture isnt a step down persay as it does have colors which the RAYii could never provide.

My 40g breeder started off with only a single RayII but proved insufficient to spread the amount to span the 18" width without casting a shadow so a Monster Ray was added as which actually coaxed the colors out of my plants and livestock. 

Remember that proper lights is not all about PAR and all RGB colored led lamps will always be dimmer but the plants will surely benefit from the full spectrum that fixed kelvin lamps could offer. A best of both worlds if you will.

Curious, Why are two 30" considered over two 48" fixtures?


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## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

Thanks to you both  If you think the planted + will be enough then I will get it. It sounds more like what I am looking for. My tank is 60" and they did say the 30" planted+ light would be fully lighted. That is probably part of the reason he recommended I wait for it.

I was looking at the Build My LED and I am interested. I was liking the Finnex price much better. We have 4 kids to feed in this house and I am not working ATM. So any price savings is a plus  Although I have no idea how much the Planted Plus is. 

I am interested in the dimming option.


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## Brian_Cali77 (Mar 19, 2010)

What type of plants are part of your goals with this tank? 

I know that the Fugeray Planted+ is said to be priced between a regular Fugeray and Ray 2.


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## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

I would like to bring out the reddish tones in my plants that are capable of it. Right now in my 55 gallon the plants that show some colors are an unknown Crypt, Bacopa carolinia, Hygrophila polysperma, Nymphaea (which I don' think is hard , Alternanthera reinecki (which doesn't do that great for me, covered in algae except the top leaves.) I have some Nesaea in a holding tank but I won't be surprised if it dies on me. I also have some other stuff in the holding tank, Hydroctyle 'Japan', Stargrass, Cyperus helferii, Bacopa moneiri.
I recently added Brazilian Pennywort, Hygrophilia angustifloia, Marsilea (which seems to mosly disappear) they aren't doing all that well. I know part of my problem is too much light without CO2, so I am trying to learn from my mistakes and choose the right light this time.
I also have a bunch of easy stuff Mosses, Wisteria, Watersprite, Java Fern, Crypt Spiralis, Dwarf Sags, random Aponogeton that grew from dry bulbs. To try and keep to algae from completely taking over. At one time I had an impressive carpet of Dwarf Hairgrass and Baby Tears (not dwarf) but for some reason it died out on me. I would love to get either of those going again. 

I had been considering CO2 but I have Discus now so I have been advised to worry about their health before the plants. Hence the decision to try and go without CO2. I am just trying to grow whatever I can at this point that will cope with high temps and no Co2.


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## Charlieeex3 (Aug 18, 2013)

What do the red lights on planted+ do? I have a finnex ray2 and was wondering if the planted+ would be better for my dwarf baby tears in my 5.5 gallon


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## dzega (Apr 22, 2013)

Charlieeex3 said:


> What do the red lights on planted+ do? I have a finnex ray2 and was wondering if the planted+ would be better for my dwarf baby tears in my 5.5 gallon


google for "photosynthesis spectrum" and you will get your answer in notime.
side benefit is it makes red fishes and red plants look more vibrant.

our grandmothers already knew the best way to make plant grow is to provide deep red and royal blue spectrum. nothing has changed here since then


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

How much of each distinct spectrum to provide for each specific plant is where things become rather complex rather quickly. Plants don't use, need, or want the same "amount" of red as of blue.

What is the "optimal" ratio of beer to steak is anyone's guess. And your optimal ratio might get me drunk in no time.

v3


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

OVT said:


> ....What is the "optimal" ratio of beer to steak is anyone's guess. And your optimal ratio might get me drunk in no time.
> 
> v3


A good starting point is two bites to one sip. Then adjust for size of steak and type of beer. Remember it's alway about achieving balance. :icon_mrgr


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

taking a gulp then two bites is always messier


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## Brian_Cali77 (Mar 19, 2010)

flutterbug said:


> ... I was thinking of putting two 30" on my 120. It would be 23" from substrate sitting directly on glass top. I was worried about the colors being washed out with the RayII. I want as much light as possible without CO2.



I'm sorry, I wish someone would chime in that has more experience with such a large tank. But there's no mistaking it, there's some issues here. Due to my ignorance, I had to Google dimensions for a 120 long. So to put the problem in better perspective, we have:

120 Long 60 x 18 x 26

Lighting a tank with LEDs at that distance kind of limits the type of LEDs you can use. Sure the Finnex lights have a decent light spread, but the questions that pop in my mind is that would it be enough to light the front to the back and to penetrate adequately? I think there would be substantial drop off in PAR (both through vertical distance and horizontal front/back, the further away from dead center under the light) and a single light (well, 2x 30" stretching the length of the tank) wouldn't be enough. It would be okay for strictly low light though.

Let's see... the Ray 2's PAR charts show about 26 PAR from 24" distance (12": 72, 18": 39). But that's directly under the light. I think unless you're going for all low light plants, you'd want at least >30+ PAR at substrate, especially for carpeting plants like the DHG.

Here's some numbers for the Fugeray Planted+ (24" model, because that's all that's listed):
12": 61
15": 45

I'm no expert, so how do we make a good guess out of this? There's no published PAR value at 24" distance to get an estimate of what you'd be getting at the 23" you need. I know red spectrum has issues with penetrating depth.. and how does red 660nm affect PAR (vs. distance)? 

You might have to PM or ask Lowe in the sponsor forum regarding your dilemma. Unless someone here can help?

My guess is if you want any real results from a Finnex light, you'd need a pair of 30" fixtures on both sides of this tank, essentially requiring you to buy 4 fixtures. Especially if you want to bring out red tones and get even light spread. But I'm only guessing, I'm not sure if that's even enough?




flutterbug said:


> I would like to bring out the reddish tones in my plants that are capable of it. [...] Crypt, Bacopa carolinia, Hygrophila polysperma, Nymphaea (which I don' think is hard , Alternanthera reinecki (which doesn't do that great for me, covered in algae except the top leaves.) I have some Nesaea in a holding tank but I won't be surprised if it dies on me. I also have some other stuff in the holding tank, Hydroctyle 'Japan', Stargrass, Cyperus helferii, Bacopa moneiri.
> I recently added Brazilian Pennywort, Hygrophilia angustifloia, Marsilea (which seems to mosly disappear) they aren't doing all that well. I know part of my problem is too much light without CO2, so I am trying to learn from my mistakes and choose the right light this time.
> I also have a bunch of easy stuff Mosses, Wisteria, Watersprite, Java Fern, Crypt Spiralis, Dwarf Sags, random Aponogeton that grew from dry bulbs. To try and keep to algae from completely taking over. At one time I had an impressive carpet of Dwarf Hairgrass and Baby Tears (not dwarf) but for some reason it died out on me. I would love to get either of those going again.
> 
> I had been considering CO2 but I have Discus now so I have been advised to worry about their health before the plants. Hence the decision to try and go without CO2. I am just trying to grow whatever I can at this point that will cope with high temps and no Co2.


You have to get the lighting in at least the moderate range for some of these plants to thrive, I believe... maybe higher, unless you're content with the easier low light tolerant plant species? But getting DHG and other more demanding plants to thrive, you'll need to rethink the lighting. Either add more Finnex fixtures to the mix (again...I'm guessing) or a more powerful LED light like the BuildMy LED fixtures. They have various optic angles to choose from to get the spread you need. They also use higher watt diodes, which would help penetrate taller tanks. I hear their customer service will even work with you in determining the right configuration based on your needs. But if cost is restrictive, then that's part of the reason LEDs might have to wait (or if you know your way around DIY LED via high powered CREE diodes / heatsinks or something?). They're still evolving and new ones are always being announced... which brings me to this point.

Another option would be to wait... both Finnex and Current have announced that they are making higher powered plant LED fixtures capable of higher PAR. Not sure of tentative release dates though and affordability?

Another option to consider is that Marineland Aquatic Plant LED Light (avail. Now). It uses 1 watt LEDs and 3 watt RGBs. I know this is their freshwater plant version of their "reef capable" light so PAR numbers are high. Also, I think the penetration capability would be more than the Finnex lights. I've never used this light, but it might be worth taking a closer look at. 

Lastly, there's always older tech like T5HO. I've seen on numerous occasions that those with larger, taller tanks go from LED back to T5HO or even Metal Halide for that matter. They claim better penetration at depths and coloring of their plants. 

And as for CO2, if you can't inject it then you should start dosing Glut (liquid carbon) as the alternative at the very least.


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## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

Thanks Brian! That is what I was worried about. I thought that the Finnex fixtures that said they were the same as 3 bulbs would work, because someone else said 3 bulbs would be good on my tank. I don't think I mentioned trying DHG though. I can't find any 60" fixtures except an ATI and it is very pricey! There is one by aquatic life but it uses 48" bulbs so I figured why bother because it is pretty expensive considering. Maybe I should just go with Build My LED, I am even having a hard time finding 30" fixtures. I am pretty sure the ones I've found all use 24" bulbs. 
So until I figure out what to do, I have my 48" T5HO 4 bulb fixture on the tank.

Oh and I do dose Excel, on my 55 gal but I was hoping if I got the light right I might not have to anymore. The idea of pressurized CO2 is growing on me. I have seen some nice Discus tanks that use it.


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## Brian_Cali77 (Mar 19, 2010)

flutterbug said:


> I don't think I mentioned trying DHG though.


Ummm, yes you did... Here's the quote:



flutterbug said:


> At one time I had an impressive carpet of Dwarf Hairgrass and Baby Tears (not dwarf) but for some reason it died out on me. I would love to get either of those going again.


If you would love to get those going again, you'd need that extra light intensity. 

BML does come in a 60" configuration. The dimmer option would be ideal because it would give you the flexibility to dial in the desired intensity. I'd contact their customer service first and give them the dimensions of the tank and to describe your ambitions with the tank/lighting so they can offer the best advice.


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## Down_Shift (Sep 20, 2008)

Anyone know how bright these will be? If it's hangable?


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## bpizzuto (Apr 22, 2013)

Attached is picture of my 125 gallon tank. I have (3) 24" finnex Ray II, they are mounted about 8" off the water on open top tank. I have CO2 running, but dose any ferts. I am posting to give you an idea what lighting will look like. I have since added (2) 18" Red Hidden Led fixtures under lip of tank along front facing towards back.

Edit: sorry I said 30" for my ray II before they are 24".


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## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Ummm, yes you did... Here's the quote:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 When I said I didn't mention growing DHG I meant to the person recommending no more than a 3 T5 HO fixture. Sorry I didn't type it so it made sense! My brain works faster than my fingers most times! lol

BML has two 60" fixtures, one is listed for a 100 gallon with a height less than mine and one is listed as a 140 with a height as more than mine. I figured I could go with the 140 listed as medium light and hopefully I'd get slightly more than medium. If I select High light on either it says I need two fixtures which doubles the cost and puts it way out of my price range.  Do you think what they consider med light is enough for what I want to grow?
I would have to e-mail them about a dimmer, so I could ask them their opinion too.


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## flutterbug (Jan 8, 2012)

bpizzuto said:


> Attached is picture of my 125 gallon tank. I have (3) 24" finnex Ray II, they are mounted about 8" off the water on open top tank. I have CO2 running, but dose any ferts. I am posting to give you an idea what lighting will look like. I have since added (2) 18" Red Hidden Led fixtures under lip of tank along front facing towards back.
> 
> Edit: sorry I said 30" for my ray II before they are 24".


Thanks so much for sharing! I was actually thinking about those hidden Red LEDS. I wasn't sure if they would emit enough light to be usable for the plants or if it is just an aesthetic thing, I have the regular ones so I can extend my viewing period and I have them set on a timer to use as moonlights. It is great to see how the lights look!


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## Brian_Cali77 (Mar 19, 2010)

flutterbug said:


> When I said I didn't mention growing DHG I meant to the person recommending no more than a 3 T5 HO fixture. Sorry I didn't type it so it made sense! My brain works faster than my fingers most times! lol
> 
> BML has two 60" fixtures, one is listed for a 100 gallon with a height less than mine and one is listed as a 140 with a height as more than mine. I figured I could go with the 140 listed as medium light and hopefully I'd get slightly more than medium. If I select High light on either it says I need two fixtures which doubles the cost and puts it way out of my price range.  Do you think what they consider med light is enough for what I want to grow?
> I would have to e-mail them about a dimmer, so I could ask them their opinion too.


Ah...gotcha!

Well medium lighting still grows a lot of plants. Especially if you're trying to avoid co2 and stick with glut. But getting reds to come out would be challenging. You'd have to stick with plants that are prone to be red rather than forced to come out. 

BML vs. Multiple Finnex fixtures (Ray 2 vs. Planted+ or both)? Maybe compare the cost/benefit, which would give you more bang for the buck, and suit your needs. 

Rivercats in the AA forum would be nice to connect with. She has an amazing heavily planted 220g. She's very helpful too so maybe you can gain some insightful advice. I know she uses a combination of lighting, including a BML. 

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f70/220g-planted-newly-rescaped-231568.html

Edit: this is the newer thread. 
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f24/rivercats-220g-transformation-journal-248939.html


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