# My Very First 36G Planted Tank



## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hey guys,

First of all I'd like to thank TechSPEED so far for sending me and emailing me a lot of information 

Story time!! So I've been reading a lot of information on this site. I have tons of questions as im trying to setup my tank asap. I really hate that its just sitting on the floor. I posted other threads already about lighting and questions but I'd figure I'd start doing it here since I don't want to flood the site with threads.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated for any of the subjects. 


36 Gallon Bowfront
30"L - 15 1/2"W - 21" H
Filter: Fluval 206 Canister filter
Heater: Fluval 120v
Substrate: MGOPM / CaribSea Instant Aqua black sand
DIY CO2 system: 1/2/3 two liter bottles w/ Co2 Nano Glass diffuser (not using atm)




Tank Goals
My goal for this tank is to make it a Natural style with carpeted plants. I don't want a lot of maintenance and I don't want to use ferts or any other things because I get a little lazy when it comes to maintaining it. I only do water changes once a week and tank cleaning and things like that. So i don't want want to do daily fertilizers or anything like that. But I wouldn't mind using the DIY Co2 if I need to.

Lighting
Everyone on the other thread I created told me to go with the FINNEX Planted plus. I really like it a lot but one problem. Correct me if im wrong but, From what I found out It has its own two seperate switch for moon light and the light. I want to put it on a timer but I also love the moonlight at night. I want a light fixtures where I can put it on a timer but still have the moon light stay on/ turn on on its own. If there isn't anything like that then I'd prob go with the Finnex planted plus.

Substrate
I am having trouble figure out the substrate.. I know I would like to go the MGOPM route because it fits my budget.. lmk if there are other options that are cheap.. My trouble is i'm still learning and figure out the scape and I know I want to create depth in the tank so I want to lift the rear higher or add some hills or something, But Idk what to buy or what to get to layer. I know you should be layering it with big rocks or something like that? TechSPEED suggested egg cartons with gravel??

let me know if im missing anything and i'll add in the information as I go.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Well I just ordered my Finnex planted+ 30 inch. Still trying to figure out the hardscape before I buy my substrate.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> Lighting
> Everyone on the other thread I created told me to go with the FINNEX Planted plus.
> 
> Substrate
> I am having trouble figure out the substrate.. I know I would like to go the MGOPM route because it fits my budget. I want to create depth in the tank so I want to lift the rear higher or add some hills or something. TechSPEED suggested egg cartons with gravel??


I have read threads from those using the Finnex saying is has wash out color look. Check out Current USA Satellite Led at Amazon.

Using the egg crates (ceiling light diffusers) is what I have seen others use. 

Another idea by Mr Green in a 10G









A good overall fert is by select aquatics. If choose your plants carefully you won't need to do DIY Co2. Wisteria and milfoil are my favorite easy plants.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> Still trying to figure out the hardscape before I buy my substrate.


I thought you were going to make MGOPM? 

I make my own substrate. Next 10G is going to be:
*1st layer *
Red Bag Kitty Litter Cup ---- $2
 KNO3 -----------------------------------$2
3 to 1 ratio

*2nd layer*
Scotts Hyponex Potting Soil $5
*
3rd Layer*
River Sand ---------------------------$3
Total cost -----------------------------$11
Still enough substrate left for 29G. In the past I used Scott's top soil and had no problems. Kitty litter has a high CEC (Cation Exchange Capacity). Most of plants are KNO3 (potassium nitrate) hogs. Spectrided stump remover for KNO3. It is 100% KNO3.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> I have read threads from those using the Finnex saying is has wash out color look. Check out Current USA Satellite Led at Amazon.
> 
> Using the egg crates (ceiling light diffusers) is what I have seen others use.
> 
> ...



I think that's the finnex ray 2 that's washed out. So far I've heard great reviews about the planted plus. Only issue would be not as bright as Ray 2. But I was told to start low then woke my way up if I need high light.

I have the diy setup already so I don't mind using it. But the less maintenance the better.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> I thought you were going to make MGOPM?
> 
> I make my own substrate. Next 10G is going to be:
> *1st layer *
> ...



I am going to go with MGOPM. But I still need to read about layering and figuring out my scape. Either rocks or wood. Not sure yet. I love the white sand look too. But not sure how that works with dirt.

What's kno3?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Woohoo get my light Monday. Hopefully Incan get this tank going soon


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So I was cleaning the tank to make sure its clean and found this on the top rim of the bracket.. Will this be an issue?


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

If this is supposed to be a new tank and it has a cracked rim, then yeah for me it would def be an issue from the point that it's supposed to be new. Other than that though it would be fine.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Chris_Produces said:


> If this is supposed to be a new tank and it has a cracked rim, then yeah for me it would def be an issue from the point that it's supposed to be new. Other than that though it would be fine.


No it's not new. It's a used tank. My aunt had it full for a year sittin in the back yard. So I cleaned it up and took it home since I hated my free 30g deep tank.


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

llayz said:


> No it's not new. It's a used tank. My aunt had it full for a year sittin in the back yard. So I cleaned it up and took it home since I hated my free 30g deep tank.


Can you lift the rim off easily or is it glued to the tank? It'd be nice to look under it to check for cracks in the aquarium itself, as well as the convenience when it comes time to clean the aquarium every now and then.


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## ctaylor3737 (Nov 14, 2013)

It should be fine. You can seal it with sealant to get it to stay together, I wouldn't worry too much.

-Chris


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

ctaylor3737 said:


> It should be fine. You can seal it with sealant to get it to stay together, I wouldn't worry too much.
> 
> I wasn't going to worry too much either cause it has been sitting like this for a year and it was fine in the outside elements lol
> 
> -Chris





Chris_Produces said:


> Can you lift the rim off easily or is it glued to the tank? It'd be nice to look under it to check for cracks in the aquarium itself, as well as the convenience when it comes time to clean the aquarium every now and then.


It doesn't lift off.. its stuck on there still. looked inside the tank.. glass is not cracked


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Got my light on monday.. Finally found time this week to upload.. Here you go!!





I love the light.. but I really wish they had a seperate power wire for the blue light so i could keep it on separate timers. For now I'm thinking about getting a blue tint and using my old LED lights for now as a seperate moon light.

I'm a bit excited now that I'm starting to get stuff for the tank. Now I need to figure out a scape.. I think I want to do white sand.. with a coral looking but with rocks. Deep cliffs with rocks and plants to keep it looking like a lake bottom.. Still tossing up ideas so it may change next time I post. :bounce::bounce:


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

Very nice! keep us updated on it.


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

The rims crack due to being outdoors. I am guessing it's UV but maybe temp fluctuation contributes. All my tanks that I have kept outside, even just for a month or two ended up with cracked rims. It's probably safe but you may want to fill outside for a few days to test. Otherwise, looking good.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So my plan is to do a cliff and try to copy this aquascape. From James findlye. "Altitude" 



I was hoping to get any tips on how to start off this aquascape. I am planning on building something so I don't hAve to worry about gas pockets building this high of a aquascape. 

Here are my options on rocks. What do you guys think is best. So far I think the red rocks are the best sense they're are more verity. Was hoping to find some black ones in the yard but no dice. 












Finally got to pick up my MGOPM today.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

His rock that have the ferns don't look natural. 

You could make some rocks, which would weigh less than real rocks, as fishbreath did here.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> I think that's the finnex ray 2 that's washed out. So far I've heard great reviews about the planted plus.


Googling it came across it on you tube. Poster said that for a 29G, which is 18in high, it would not be good for high light plants.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

llayz said:


> I think that's the finnex ray 2 that's washed out. So far I've heard great reviews about the planted plus. Only issue would be not as bright as Ray 2. But I was told to start low then woke my way up if I need high light.





Hilde said:


> Googling it came across it on you tube. Poster said that for a 29G, which is 18in high, it would not be good for high light plants.


When i said washed out, I meant that people in the reviews said its not as colorful (full spectrum) as the planted plus and the ray 2 doesn't have the full spectrum color. Never said it was good for high light plants for my current setup.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> His rock that have the ferns don't look natural.
> 
> You could make some rocks, which would weigh less than real rocks, as fishbreath did here.


that looks really really challenging.. But I am thinking about using the foam as a filler with some rocks to weigh it down.. and just top it of with MGOPM and some gravel.. I am thinking about scratching the whole project cause its so damn challenging that I think i'll be in over my head.. I am going to give it a couple of days to sink in before I buy things..

Really thinking about going to easy route and just toss everything in and start planting but idk.. its bugging me that this tank is sitting on the floor for a month already.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I have seen some real nice layouts using rounded river stones, although it might look better in a shorter tank.

For a small tank like this one the crack in the plastic rim is probably not a big deal. It would be a good to watch out for more cracks in the corners.

I'd be disinclined to use those green stones. They might have copper or other metals in them.

Have you bee able to make any more headway.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Well after some discussions on My substrate thread. I really want to get my hands on some lava rock. The pet store is $2 a pound but other people tell me I can get it for 10cent a pound at quarry stone places but we don't have a lot of those here in sothern California (Orange County) any suggestions on other cheap options other the Lava rock?? If I get desperate I may just cough up some money for the $2 a pound.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hey guys.. so its been a couple weeks sense i updated but I have made zero progress, I was just at the pet store looking at LAVA rock and I feel like im back to square one on the hardscape. Can't figure out what to buy or how to setup this scape.. Looking into buyin just a package of rocks from the for sale/trade section and just go from there..


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> Hey guys.. so its been a couple weeks sense i updated but I have made zero progress, I was just at the pet store looking at LAVA rock and I feel like im back to square one on the hardscape. Can't figure out what to buy or how to setup this scape.. Looking into buyin just a package of rocks from the for sale/trade section and just go from there..


Got any pictures of what you have done?
Lava rock can be bought at hardware stores now.
Here is a link for aquascaping.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> Got any pictures of what you have done?
> Lava rock can be bought at hardware stores now.
> Here is a link for aquascaping.


Went to all my hardware stores and they carry none, only the bags for the bbq or little stones.. But after talking to a friend shortly after posting that last post i posted, I went into I don't give a F*** mode lol. I just picked the rocks i liked out of the yard and now im at the point where im starting to scape.. still playing around and none of these are perminent.. still trying to figure it out.. so bare with me.. ill post a pic of the final spot i like.. I forgot to buy foam so I can't fill the tank untill i go tomorrow.. which is scary cause all my fish are in a bucket ready to go into the tank =.=


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

here is a update before I go to bed, Will be getting the touch n foam home seal tomorrow to fill in the hills and what not.. here is the hardscape so far.. lmk what you guys think?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


>


According to the Photography Rule of Thirds you've made 1 error. The space between the highest rock and next rock is in the middle. I would move that group towards the front and right angled. Otherwards I like it I like it.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

I completely re did it due to building and elivation change in the rear.. here is the final scape.. will be foaming shortly with photos..


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> I completely re did ithttp://s1240.photobucket.com/user/P...B-4A8C-82F6-3DD75C15AA3E_zpsvttvy5pl.jpg.html


Now you are getting. Next I would just add ferns and moss to the rocks. Have found a hair net is best to keep the moss down. You can glue the ferns with super glue gel. Last of all foreground plant for front of rocks and your tank will be similar to your fav. A few are pelia, Hydrocotyle, Sagittaria.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

man i hope i foamed it right.. but there is no turning back!! it looks all nasty and this stuff is super sticky..


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

so i tried to cover the foam with sand.. it didnt stick very well it just made the foam sink so i had to refoam the spot that caved in with sand.. I think that is why they use the epoxy?? lol.. i will cut off the extra foam or dremmel it out.. but here are some pictures..


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So can anyone recommend me carpet plants that is easy to grow?? I haven't research plants yet


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

llayz said:


> So can anyone recommend me carpet plants that is easy to grow?? I haven't research plants yet


Did you decide if you're running CO2 or not? That will greatly impact your options in terms of carpeting plant options.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

lauraleellbp said:


> Did you decide if you're running CO2 or not? That will greatly impact your options in terms of carpeting plant options.


I can but last time I tried I has mass amounts of green spot Algee everywhere. I have a DIY setup with either 1/2 bottles of 2 litters. I has 1 bottle on my old tank and it was running for a good 3 weeks. I'm a bit scared to do again cause of the algee but if I can grow better carpets I'll do it


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

I feel like this has become a, what not to do when you're foaming learning experience for everyone loll.. 

anyhow, So I started clearing up the foam and am stuck with a delima.. i thought the sand would stick the the foam like glue but it didnt so now im stuck with this very very steep foam wall.. any ideas on how to cover this up?? 

My first thought is moss, but no clue what type and if it will blend in nice with carpeted plants.. I am also leaving gaps behind to fill so i can have plants there too if i want.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Well tonight i finally get to fill it!! here is the soil/sand cap pics.. 

i started on the sand and i remembered i wanted to log this on my journal =0D

dirt




sand/filling


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So I just finish putting in the filter and heater.. does anyone know how long I should wait before adding my fish?? I let it sit over night.. Just tossed in the filter (with water and media from old tank filter is Fluval Canister filter 206(9) forgot the n umber) I am a bit confused cause I'm here two things.. 

either add the fish right away and just do water change daily for 2 weeks..

or wait a week or 2 to let tank cycle then add fish?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)




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## chan1011 (Mar 17, 2014)

llayz said:


> So I just finish putting in the filter and heater.. does anyone know how long I should wait before adding my fish?? I let it sit over night.. Just tossed in the filter (with water and media from old tank filter is Fluval Canister filter 206(9) forgot the n umber) I am a bit confused cause I'm here two things..
> 
> either add the fish right away and just do water change daily for 2 weeks..
> 
> or wait a week or 2 to let tank cycle then add fish?


Best is to test your water for Ammonia/Nirite/Nirate levels than taking a guess. Unless you don't care if your fish die then you can add whenever you like


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

I will be testing. Thanks for the advice. 

So I am looking for plants asap and I have no clue where to start. Any ideas on plants that are
Easy to grow for carpeted plants and some
For the background?? 

I prob want to stick to 3 types

1-carpet
2- bushy looking moss so I can pin to the foam and steep hills on the rocks.
3- maybe some vertical growers somewhere in the back or front to give it some depth? Idea just ideas I'm throwing in my head.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Can't find this answer anywhere but does anyone know if a small 2'' pleco will stir up my substrate?? I read corys are safe but i am scared to put in the pleco

I also have some old plants form my other 30g.. I don't wish to plant them but can I just leave htem floating??


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## TECKSPEED (Jan 2, 2013)

You can leave them floating as long as all your equipment is still functioning. They wont die, maybe just start to curl towards the light.

The pleco is completely up to you if you want to put it in your tank or not, i know as they grow some lose their algae eating ability, due to no being interested in it anymore.

As for plants....
- carpet - I would go with stargrass, dwarf sag, S. Repens or something along those lines. I have all three in my tanks and under a finnex planted plus all three grow fine. The higher the light the shorter the plants will stay. S Repens will need the tops trimmed I believe to keep it shorter but the other two work off of how high your lighting is. higher lighting shorter plants to get that carpet affect.

- moss - really any moss will do for this purpose, personal favorite of mine is christmas moss, but again any moss should work for covering up your foam and whatever else you have to cover.

- background - This again is all personal preference, If I were you I would go with ludwigia repens or maybe a rotala species. Both of these are easy to grow and arent too demanding. Now if you wanted something different you could go with jungle val, which is also and easy grower, but this will look completely different from the other two. Jungle val in my experience grows well and fast.

+1 on testing your water, good rule of thumb is planting your tank then letting it sit fish-less for two weeks or so to get your cycle going if not finished. After those two weeks then slowly acclimate your fish to the new tank.


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

Definitely test water before throwing them in. Only times I have not done this, is when I used old media from another well established tank (like you did) and I also use a bottle of tetra safe start. Can't tell you enough how awesome that stuff is. Now days I never test when I do both of those things. If only using media, I get nervous and always test, just in case bacteria had died off due to something weird whenever I transfer the old media to a new tank.


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## jmf3460 (Aug 21, 2013)

looking good! hurry up and plant. I would say if your media from an old tank was still good and had good bio bacteria you should have an instant cycle, test the water if you get no ammo and some nitrates then toss them in after they acclimate to the temp. Keep up on water changes for the first little while until all the stuff settles completely. 

VERY GOOD LOOKING SCAPE SO FAR


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Thanks guys. Tank seems to be cycled already. I basically swap tanks in 2 days leaving the filter running in a bucket with the fish. I will be testing daily for a week or two. 

Anyone know where I can get my hands on this? 


Fissidens fontanus


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/myPlants.php?do=view&p=177&n=fissidens_fontanus_fissidens_fontanus


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

jmf3460 said:


> looking good! hurry up and plant. I would say if your media from an old tank was still good and had good bio bacteria you should have an instant cycle, test the water if you get no ammo and some nitrates then toss them in after they acclimate to the temp. Keep up on water changes for the first little while until all the stuff settles completely.
> 
> VERY GOOD LOOKING SCAPE SO FAR


I planted my carpet today. I'll post pictures later


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So after doing somethinking.. I don't think my tank is high light with the 18inch from sub to the light fixture.. I really really want a nice and low carpet.. Should I get another planted+ or ray2?? suggestions??


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> So after doing somethinking.. I don't think my tank is high light with the 18inch from sub to the light fixture.. I really really want a nice and low carpet.. Should I get another planted+ or ray2?? suggestions??


If you have the cash I would go with the Ray planted LED.

If you don't have the cash here are some that may work with the light you have. Eleocharis acicularis, Echinodorus tenellus, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, Sagittaria subulata

Check out plantfinder and click on placement option for my ideas.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hey guys here is a picture of my planted glosso I planted 2 days ago. You can't see it here.. but I can see them growing already and they're going up and not sideways as i expected.. There is also this white fuzz cob web looking algee growing but as i googled it, it seems to be normal for new tanks like this.. and my ghost shrimp should take care of it.







Hilde said:


> If you have the cash I would go with the Ray planted LED.
> 
> If you don't have the cash here are some that may work with the light you have. Eleocharis acicularis, Echinodorus tenellus, Lilaeopsis brasiliensis, Sagittaria subulata
> 
> Check out plantfinder and click on placement option for my ideas.


cool site, that will come in handy, thanks Hilde. Wasnt sure which you suggested sense u said Ray planted? lol


1- So I am thinking of either another planted plus or ray2.. If another planted plus will take me to high light I would rather get a planted plus.. but if it wont.. then i would get a ray 2.. Suggestions?

2 - If I do get a ray2 what would i expect in algee burst??


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> Wasnt sure which you suggested sense u said Ray planted?


Finnex Fuge Ray Planted Plus. Finnex LED Light Fixtures here


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> Finnex Fuge Ray Planted Plus. Finnex LED Light Fixtures here


will this put me in high light with 2? i was researching the pars.. and it seems i will only get 30ish par with 1.. 60 enter medium light right?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So I just placed my order with the ray2 I will post photos once i get it.. thanks for the hlep guys.. can't wait for the growth.. 

I've been thinking about adding in my diyc02 but scared of algee


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> I've been thinking about adding in my diyc02 but scared of algee


It won't give you algae.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> It won't give you algae.


It did on my 30g but maybe because I left the light on too much. I'll give it a shot once the ray 2 gets here


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> It did on my 30g but maybe because I left the light on too much. I'll give it a shot once the ray 2 gets here


As there is an increase in light, there must also be a proportionate increase in CO2 and nutrients - aquaticcommunity. From this info seems that you probably didn't have enough Co2 for the light intensity.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> As there is an increase in light, there must also be a proportionate increase in CO2 and nutrients - aquaticcommunity. From this info seems that you probably didn't have enough Co2 for the light intensity.


great read thanks hilde!!


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Today I did a water change and it was weird, my water was a bit yellowish, im guessing its from the wood pieces in the MGOPM. So I cleaned out my filter since I assumed it was crazy dirty and bam it was.. wood pieces and dirt/sand all over the place. I did a 50% water change and also added some carbon in the canister. 

I also hooked up my DIY Co2 today to complement my new ray2 light.



*Co2 Mix*
2 cups sugar
1/2 tbsp yeast
1/2 tbsp baking soda





I got my Ray 2 today and my first impression was damn what a difference, the tank is way way better lit now with the ray 2. I notice that the Circuit board with the LEDs would be on the full bar like the planted plus, but it is short by maybe 3 inch on each side? a little disappointed about that but I'm sure its bright enough as it is.I tired to get a picture of it on and off but it looks the same while the planted plus is running because of the auto adjustment.. But here is a picture with the Ray2 and Planted+


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Does anyone know where the best place to put the defuser? Its currently in the front right of the tank right under the filter outlet stream.

how long should I leave my light on? I currently leaving it on about 13 hours, but I know i will need to adjust once the Co2 starts pumping.


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

llayz said:


> Does anyone know where the best place to put the defuser? Its currently in the front right of the tank right under the filter outlet stream.
> 
> how long should I leave my light on? I currently leaving it on about 13 hours, but I know i will need to adjust once the Co2 starts pumping.


13 hours :eek5: If I did that, I would have algae problems like a "you know what." I run pressurized co2 and run my med/high-high light setup roughly 9hrs a day at most. My tank though, is packed with way more stem plants and just plants in general, compared to where your tank is at with it being new. 

Are you going to use a drop checker?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Chris_Produces said:


> Are you going to use a drop checker?


I never have used that before.. I usually just set up the diy and let it go lol.. I know, its not a great Idea but I am still learning on C02. Never read about it. Just know its good for plants.


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

llayz said:


> I never have used that before.. I usually just set up the diy and let it go lol.. I know, its not a great Idea but I am still learning on C02. Never read about it. Just know its good for plants.


Oh man, times like this I want to conference call lol (not saying I know everything, I get super frustrated with algae problems and such in my tanks. Still learning myself.) Drop Checkers (DC) are not the end all be all, but they are one of the most valuable tools, IMO, that you have available to you when it comes to the level of co2 you're putting into your tank/s.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> I usually just set up the diy and let it go lol.. I am still learning on C02.


I notice that you only have 1 bottle. Co2 would be more stable if you had more bottles. Here is a good read.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> how long should I leave my light on? I currently leaving it on about 13 hours, but I know i will need to adjust once the Co2 starts pumping.


lauraleellbp advises to start with 6hrs

I have mine on 4hrs/ off 3hrs/ on 4hrs. I have found that this helps keep algae problems under control.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Chris_Produces said:


> Drop Checkers (DC) are not the end all be all, but they are one of the most valuable tools, IMO, that you have available to you when it comes to the level of co2 you're putting into your tank/s.


Are these things expensive?? I'm a total noob when it comes to this whole deal.. All ive read so far is substrate and lighting.. Now that I got that down I need to read up on c02



Hilde said:


> I notice that you only have 1 bottle. Co2 would be more stable if you had more bottles. Here is a good read.


I have another bottle I can hook up too. but I'm scared of over pumping c02 in the tank and killing my fish



Hilde said:


> lauraleellbp advises to start with 6hrs
> 
> I have mine on 4hrs/ off 3hrs/ on 4hrs. I have found that this helps keep algae problems under control.


I did 8 hours last night.. I'm going to cut down to 4 hours tonight, Aglee is starting to grow on the black of the tank and on the rocks =0(


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

SO I am getting algee Its starting to grow on the back of the tank glass and on the rocks. I wana keep this under control so im cutting my light time dramatically, To my knowledge is because I don't have enough plants to use up the c02 so the left over c02 is getting use by algee, correct? Any suggestions on plants that would compliment my scape?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> I notice that you only have 1 bottle. Co2 would be more stable if you had more bottles. Here is a good read.


haha I just finish reading that thread, AWESOME!! WINE!? WTF AHHA nioce!


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> Are these things expensive??


Drop checkers are cheep on Ebay. Get the solution too there.


llayz said:


> I have another bottle I can hook up too. but I'm scared of over pumping c02 in the tank and killing my fish


According to Hoppy it would be very difficult to get enough CO2 from one 2L DIY bottle to do the slightest harm to the fish. Wit a 45 gallon tank he used 2 -2L bottles, and never got more than about 20 ppm of CO2. CO2 20 - 30 ppm


llayz said:


> I did 8 hours last night.. I'm going to cut down to 4 hours tonight, Aglee is starting to grow on the black of the tank and on the rocks =0(


Sounds like normal green algae. Just scape it off the back as you take water out. No tank is free from algae. 


llayz said:


> Any suggestions on plants that would compliment my scape?


Alternanthera


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> Drop checkers are cheep on Ebay. Get the solution too there.
> 
> According to Hoppy it would be very difficult to get enough CO2 from one 2L DIY bottle to do the slightest harm to the fish. Wit a 45 gallon tank he used 2 -2L bottles, and never got more than about 20 ppm of CO2. CO2 20 - 30 ppm
> 
> ...



Other then the Carpeting plant I have no clue how to plant the tank.. Should I fill in the whole back side? I have some left over plants from my old tank.. Should I use them? here is the link to the PLant ID I was thinking of giving away. Here


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> Other then the Carpeting plant I have no clue how to plant the tank.. Should I fill in the whole back side? I have some left over plants from my old tank.. Should I use them? here is the link to the PLant ID I was thinking of giving away. Here


The little 1s are java fern. The 1s with red round leaves are ludwiga. The long 1 is a Cryptocoryne.

I saw rotalla, medium light plant, grow in 20L G tank with just 2 clip lights. DIY Co2 was used too. The color was not a bright pink as some have. Perhaps the addition of iron would help. 

Dry ferts would be cheaper in the long run. CSM+B would be a good addition. Good for red plants.

Here is a good link to help you scape it. Also google 36G tank and see if anything similar to what you want for inspiration.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> The little 1s are java fern. The 1s with red round leaves are ludwiga. The long 1 is a Cryptocoryne.
> 
> I saw rotalla, medium light plant, grow in 20L G tank with just 2 clip lights. The color was not a bright pink as some have. Perhaps the addition of iron would help.
> 
> ...



I really don't want to use any ferts or rootabs, thats why I went dirt so i wouldn't have to do all that.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So I decided to Just toss in the Java and rotalla from the old tank into this once sense everyone is telling me I need more plants. I have 3 plants in so far, Glosso, Baby tears, Java and the Rotalla. I think i will stick to those 4 plants only and add moss. I dont want too much of a verity thats why.. So I just need to find moss to cover up those patches of ugly foam. Oh and I also got a timer for the tank. Planning on doing from 8pm - 10pm and 2am -6am for lighting
_
Java on the left and rotalla on the right_


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> I really don't want to use any ferts or rootabs, thats why I went dirt so i wouldn't have to do all that.


I believe these plants could be grown in your tank without ferts:
Sagittaria subulata
Cryptocoryne 
Hygrophila difformus 
Vallisneria 
Hydrocotyle 
Cardamine lyrata
Ricia


llayz said:


> So I decided to Just toss in the Java and rotalla from the old tank into this once sense everyone is telling me I need more plants.


I don't think the Rotalla will survive without ferts. Perhaps until you get the plants you want you could get some Hornwort. It helps absorb chemicals.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Hilde said:


> I don't think the Rotalla will survive without ferts.


It was growing really well with my old tank and it was about 23 inch from a low light so im guessing it was super super low but it was growing.

Do you think the JAva and the Rotalla complements my scape tho?? I like the Hygrophila difformus but not sure where I could pick that up at. I doubt my LFS has that. but they do have Ricia, but its about 7 dollars for a small golf ball size. Ricia is a moss correct?? So my chances of growing it is very possible?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So I have brown algee EVERYWHERE, does this mean I need to increase my Co2? Was thinking about adding another 2litter bottle


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> So I have brown algee EVERYWHERE, does this mean I need to increase my Co2?


That is diatom algae. It is harmless. It usually occurs in new tanks. It usually goes away on its own. So I have read.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

llayz said:


> It was growing really well with my old tank and it was about 23 inch from a low light so im guessing it was super super low but it was growing.
> 
> My LFS has that. but they do have Ricia, but its about 7 dollars for a small golf ball size. Ricia is a moss correct??


Guess I am wrong then. Did it grow just green? 

Seems you would get more for your money buying from a member of the forum. I wonder if you did a member's advance search for members in your area you could find plants you want. 

Riccia is Bladderwort, a floating plant, which some train it to grow on rocks using something like a hair net.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

I hope the algee goes awayy cause its super ugly.. Ill take pictures of what my LFS have and will do a member search.. thanks again hilde


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Here is some pictures of the ugly aglee im having.. But i picked up 2 Otos and they're doing WORK.. 1 of the big rocks are all clean already.





I also added an extra litter bottle for my c02 to see if it helps with the algee. Also trying to figure out my lighting. Starting with 10 hours and going to work my way down


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

llayz said:


> Here is some pictures of the ugly aglee im having.. But i picked up 2 Otos and they're doing WORK.. 1 of the big rocks are all clean already.
> 
> 
> 
> I also added an extra litter bottle for my c02 to see if it helps with the algee. Also trying to figure out my lighting. Starting with 10 hours and going to work my way down


You might want to start much lower with your lighting/photoperiod duration. Just until the plants take off much much more. You'll have an algae tank in no time IME if you do 10hours


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Chris_Produces said:


> You might want to start much lower with your lighting/photoperiod duration. Just until the plants take off much much more. You'll have an algae tank in no time IME if you do 10hours


its been 3 days and no algee has grown yet. so it actually is doing a bit better, I dont know if its the otos or the lighting or the co2 boost. we shall see..


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So the tank looks like [censored][censored][censored][censored] right now due to gas pockets everywehre!! and it sells like rotten egg, almost all of the plants have black roots and the ones that were starting to florish got some black roots too.. Other then poking it every day, what else can i do??


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

Can we see an updated picture of the gas pockets you're talking about?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

You have dead spots which have caused pockets of of hydrogen sulfide.

The roots are black thus they are dying. You might as will start over. 

What is your substrate?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I really hate to say this after all the work you put into this- but it looks like all that detailed rockwork you did left some large areas for anerobic spots to develop.

I think if you re-did your substrate, using only larger gravel underneath your rocks to promote better circulation, that might work better?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> I think if you re-did your substrate, using only larger gravel underneath your rocks to promote better circulation, that might work better?


Perhaps you could just put foam in the spaces below the rocks.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So let me get this straight, this occurs due to poor circulation underneath the sand?? Im going to take this as a learning experiment, I am moving in 2/3 months so I will prob rip everything up and start all over unless it fixes it self


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Chris_Produces said:


> Can we see an updated picture of the gas pockets you're talking about?


You can't really see them in photos. But I poke the substrate everyday now. The tank just has dirt everywhere.



Hilde said:


> What is your substrate?


MGOPM and Sand


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

MG does release lots and lots of bubbles due to the organic decomp going on, but usually those bubbles are not toxic hydrogen sulfide... unless they develop in anaerobic areas.

The fact that your plants are going black and the tank/substrate/bubbles smell bad point to hydrogen sulfide.

Looking at your hardscape, you do have lots of potentially problematic areas, particularly with all those big rocks and lots of organic matter under them (the MG).


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

so will this eventually go away?


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

I wonder if floating the plants or moving them to a different tank, along with any livestock, could save some of them? Maybe someone with more experience than me could chime in on that. I've never had such a situation happen with my tanks.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Chris_Produces said:


> I wonder if floating the plants or moving them to a different tank, along with any livestock, could save some of them?


It seems logically possible. Just depends on how bad the condition of the plants are and what type.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

llayz said:


> so will this eventually go away?


It if it's hydrogen sulfide, not untill all the organic matter has completely decomposed.

That could take a very long time...


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## chunkychun (Apr 6, 2012)

Sorry to hear about all the algae and the bubbles. that is why i don't like MGOP(b/c bubbles). I had same problem in my other tank. even after a year there will be a few pockets when I move my plants. yours sound worse. It may help if you get more plants(swords/crypts) with bigger roots and put them near where you may have pockets. also agree with others to start with less lights say 6-7 then up to 8hrs. I know you said you didn't want to do ferts but it may help especially if you are using co2. 

I have the same tank and am using just a fugeray 30inch and wormcasting capped with flourite with no co2 but once a week ferts. good luck!


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

So if i was to start with ferts, can't i just do all full sand?


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Tank update: So according to my GF my tank looks like the hulk took a fat [censored][censored][censored][censored] in it lol.. I am goign to reduce lighting but the plants are growing gooooooood.. other then the algee plants seem okie.. still getting gas pockets.. but im not touchign the tank.. im just letting it do its own thing..


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

llayz said:


> So if i was to start with ferts, can't i just do all full sand?


Definitely. Might have diatoms for a bit though if you're cleanup crew can't handle them or you run the lights too long/too close to the substrate.


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Chris_Produces said:


> Definitely. Might have diatoms for a bit though if you're cleanup crew can't handle them or you run the lights too long/too close to the substrate.


My otos will get fat off of those.. so im good. Might do this and rip everything out


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## Chris_Produces (Feb 19, 2014)

llayz said:


> My otos will get fat off of those.. so im good. Might do this and rip everything out


Yeah the diatoms are normal phase as I'm sure you're aware of, but with the other issues of the gas pockets, I would probably be starting over and use a different substrate. I just use floramax and then maintain ferts dosing myself. ADA is too expensive :red_mouth


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Tank update



I stop using C02 cause of the crazy ammount of algee, still getting green algee, hoping as the plants grow itll go away.. I'm moving soon so im thinking about redoing it or leaving it..


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Here is a update on my tank.. 



So I feel like rippin everything out and going with a simpler scape that focus more on plants then the rocks.. any suggestions how i can still salvage the substrate? preferably the sand..


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## llayz (Feb 21, 2014)

Here is a update!! 

Tears seem to be growing healthy and wildly now.. Gata do some trimming.. Trying to get my xmoss and riccia going but I believe I need to redo the Netting to make it grow better.. I can tell they're both fightingfor for light. The piece that are getting light are growing way better then the moss inside both netting.



ps. I just fed them so ignore all those little sprinkle of food =0D


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## Chalkbass (Nov 27, 2015)

Looks good man! I like how the plants increase in height around the rock. Nice white platy(molly?) as well.


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