# War against multiple types of algae!



## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

So I have a really big algae problem in my 5.5 gallon tank. It's been set up for ~2 months and already Im getting attacked by at least 3 types of algae. IT's EVERYWHERE, on the plants, sand, glass, and wood. I am lighting with 2X 13w 6500K CFLs and Im running DIY co2. It has MTS with a TMS cap. There's two problems right there. Imbalance of CO2 and Lighting + excess nutrients in the water due to my betta occasionally uprooting plants. My plants are pearling so I don't know why the algae is growing, 3-4 of the rotalas in the tank have steady streams of O2 coming out! My plants are growing extremely fast, especially the glosso which has runners that have runners. The only inhabitants are 10 sakura shrimp and 1 dragonscale betta.
Oh and btw I use to add a fertilizer rich in Iron which i stopped using about 2 weeks ago, because I heard that excess iron can cause algae.
I do 60% water changes (3 gallon) every week

now for pics-

FTS









Patches of Glosso overgrown with algae

















Some green crud growing on the TMS









brown crud growing on the Java Moss









Green stuff on the filter 









Something growing in between the two patches of Java Moss (middle of picture)









Pearling plants









please help! I want to try algae eaters/excell but my parents said no more aquarium related purchases (Indian parents can be so cheap sometimes). I want to do a 3 day black out but I don't want to kill my plants. 

here's a random pic of my PFR's


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## zchauvin (Apr 16, 2011)

My problem too, from what I've experienced and learned I'll make it simple.... Lower light or higher co2 and reduce fertz then adjust 

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## Canuck (Apr 30, 2009)

Personally, if it were my tank, I'd triple the plant mass. Use cheap fast growing stems, you can remove them later as the other stuff grows in. Might not even be a bad idea to throw in some duckweed or another floater for the time being. IMO, you want the plants to "dominate" the system, with the current light, nutrients, I think you're leaving too much wiggle room for algae to take hold.


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## touch of sky (Nov 1, 2011)

How long are you leaving your lights on?


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

touch of sky said:


> How long are you leaving your lights on?


12 hours, is that bad?


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## zchauvin (Apr 16, 2011)

Drop to 10 or 8, lower fertz and put co2

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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

zchauvin said:


> Drop to 10 or 8, lower fertz and put co2
> 
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


alright I'll lower it to 8.
I stopped using fertilizers 2 weeks ago, and will diy CO2 be enough?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

brown crud on your moss is called "moss anchors", basically roots


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> brown crud on your moss is called "moss anchors", basically roots


Oh, I feel stupid LOL


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## MitchellLawson (Nov 8, 2011)

13 x 2 = 26 26/5.5 = 4.2 WPG that is A LOT of light. You could probably get away with only 1 of the 13W lights.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

I have six tanks, and regularly struggle with different types of algae. I have pressurized CO2 in three tanks, and have never been timid about CO2 introduction, so that hasn't changed. Lower lighting, obvioiusly, helps. Increased flow, via powerheads, helps.

I regularly see people advising a reduction in fertilizers to combat algae. I won't say that this approach doesn't work, but consider the concept of EI dosing: overdosing everything, with regular water changes to set a limit on each nutrient. With standard EI dosing, done correctly, there is *never* a lack of any nutrient.

Anyway, if I had a surefire method of combating algae, I would share it. But based on my experiences, I'd say there are methods other than limiting nutrients that may help, and, regardless of the possible (arguable) beneficial effects of reducing nutrients, one of its very possible consequences is making algae problems worse.


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## zchauvin (Apr 16, 2011)

MitchellLawson said:


> 13 x 2 = 26 26/5.5 = 4.2 WPG that is A LOT of light. You could probably get away with only 1 of the 13W lights.


I have 27w over 3.5 gallons for 10hr a day, with proper balance algae will be no problem. 4.5wpg is considered high light, if your not using fertz or co2 with that light and those few plants you will have algae for ever.

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## touch of sky (Nov 1, 2011)

I would personally lower the time the light is on to 7.5 to 8 hours. I would try to manually remove as much of the algae that I could, and spot treat with Excel. Then I would dose the recommended amount of Excel daily, and use a syringe to put it on any problem spots of algae directly.

Your lighting is high for a tank without CO2, so as others have mentioned, you may want to try removing one bulb.

In a 5.5 gallon tank, the daily dose would of Excel would be 1/2 ml. You might also want to start fertilizing again, but cut down the amount of fertilizer to 1/4 what you were dosing before, and see how things go for a couple of weeks on this routine. If the algae is diminishing, and the plants seem to be growing, then you could try upping the dose of fertilizer gradually to about a 1/2 dose. See how it goes. You have a lightly planted tank, without co2, so in my opinion, you do not need a full dose of fertilizer.

Also, it would help to add a few more plants to the tank.


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

Alright so Im going to lower photoperiod to 8 hours, try to dose excel, add more plants (if I can find some!) 
anything else I should try?
What algae eaters would help?
Oh and how about H2O2, whats the deal with that stuff?


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

Time and time and time and time and time and time again, people with many years of experience will say that the "watts per gallon" rule is COMPLETELY useless if you have *anything* other than T8 or T12 bulbs with crappy or nonexistent reflectors. There are just too many options nowadays for a single equation to apply. But the concept has been a staple of the planted tank community for long enough that it's almost impossible to get rid of, at least for now.

So, take any advice that uses the acronym "wpg" with a grain of salt. And then check the sticky in the lighting forum for vastly more up-to-date info on lighting.


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

I would say A) too much light, raise it up a good 4-6" and b) definitely need more plants. If the plants are pearling I wouldn't add ferts, pearling=photosynthesis, and considering the substrate, you shouldn't need any but maybe micros for a long time.


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## zchauvin (Apr 16, 2011)

kevmo911 said:


> Time and time and time and time and time and time again, people with many years of experience will say that the "watts per gallon" rule is COMPLETELY useless if you have *anything* other than T8 or T12 bulbs with crappy or nonexistent reflectors. There are just too many options nowadays for a single equation to apply. But the concept has been a staple of the planted tank community for long enough that it's almost impossible to get rid of, at least for now.
> 
> So, take any advice that uses the acronym "wpg" with a grain of salt. And then check the sticky in the lighting forum for vastly more up-to-date info on lighting.


+1, I was just giving him the good old reference, I just look at the algae to plant growth ratio if you will and adjust..

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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

If you are using Aqua Soil then maybe this thread could be of some help. Read through a few times and take lots of notes, should help you come up with a plan of action. Sure helping me maintain a cleaner tank!
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/155525-ada-adg-gallery-journal-how-do.html


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

Kathyy said:


> If you are using Aqua Soil then maybe this thread could be of some help. Read through a few times and take lots of notes, should help you come up with a plan of action. Sure helping me maintain a cleaner tank!
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/155525-ada-adg-gallery-journal-how-do.html


I'm using Mineralized Top Soil with a Tahitian Moon Sand capping
Thanks for the help


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

HolyAngel said:


> I would say A) too much light, raise it up a good 4-6" and b) definitely need more plants. If the plants are pearling I wouldn't add ferts, pearling=photosynthesis, and considering the substrate, you shouldn't need any but maybe micros for a long time.


Yeah I should raise the lights, they're about 1" above the water surface at the moment.


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## happi (Dec 18, 2009)

satsiriakal/namaste

what kind of fertilizers and you using, can you give me full detail on your setup. are you dosing any iron, if so then you might be overdosing it. 

you will have to wait for few moth before i can send you any plants. they will simply die because i don't have the heat pack. just hang in there.

Edit: i really need to start reading everything before i answer anything, i missed that you already provided the detail about your setup, but are you dosing NPK?


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

happi said:


> satsiriakal/namaste
> 
> what kind of fertilizers and you using, can you give me full detail on your setup. are you dosing any iron, if so then you might be overdosing it.
> 
> you will have to wait for few moth before i can send you any plants. they will simply die because i don't have the heat pack. just hang in there.


haha satsriakal bro

I stopped using a fertilizer that was rich in iron for the red growth in plants about 2 weeks ago which i suspected was the cause of algae :/

lights- x2 13 watt CFLs 
filter - TopFin rated for 10 gallons (90gph)
Substrate - Mineralized Top Soil with a Tahitian Moon Sand capping
Flora- 
- 10-15 stems of Rotala Rotundifolia
- 3 rhizomes of Java Fern
- ~20 leaves of glossostigma
- 5 stems of ludwigia repens
Fauna-
- 1 betta
- 10 Sakura Shrimp
Co2- DIY CO2
Ferts- None
Photoperiod- now 8 hours


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## happi (Dec 18, 2009)

dinosaurodon said:


> haha satsriakal bro
> 
> I stopped using a fertilizer that was rich in iron for the red growth in plants about 2 weeks ago which i suspected was the cause of algae :/
> 
> ...


i run 5wpg over my 50g and there is no algae at all, lights are not your problem. i will send you PM about how to solve your issue.


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

Alright, I did a massive 80% water change with a 3:1 RO to tap water ratio
hope this helps


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

OK I just got parts for a Paintball CO2 setup, now all I need is to find a tank!!


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## zchauvin (Apr 16, 2011)

dinosaurodon said:


> OK I just got parts for a Paintball CO2 setup, now all I need is to find a tank!!


I've got a 2.5lb if your interested Lmk 

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## Alicia (Nov 8, 2011)

I'm certainly not the expert but I learned that it's better to space your lighting time. I put the lights on for 4 hours then off for 4 hours then on again. This seems to have worked pretty well.


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

Alicia said:


> I'm certainly not the expert but I learned that it's better to space your lighting time. I put the lights on for 4 hours then off for 4 hours then on again. This seems to have worked pretty well.


I leave to go to school at 7:00 AM and get home at 3:00 PM, so it fits the 8 hour timing, I would try what you suggested but this fits my schedule perfectly
(I would forget to turn the lights on and off lol)

tomorrow I will post more pictures of the tank, I have added a bunch of plants and I have hooked up a nano diffuser to my DIY CO2. Algae seems to be lessening but not by much, so I guess it's working.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

dinosaurodon said:


> I leave to go to school at 7:00 AM and get home at 3:00 PM, so it fits the 8 hour timing, I would try what you suggested but this fits my schedule perfectly


A mechanical timer is probably $5 at Wal-Mart or Target. You can plug both the lighting and a solenoid into it.


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## dinosaurodon (Jun 1, 2011)

kevmo911 said:


> A mechanical timer is probably $5 at Wal-Mart or Target. You can plug both the lighting and a solenoid into it.


I'll try to get one of those










As you can see I've added quite a few more plants (I sorta just tossed the plants in there) and a nano diffuser to my DIY CO2. The Algae is decreasing but not by much, so hopefully with the addition of extra plants and a diffuser the algae will begin to recede more quickly.

Plant list, just if you want to know
Limnophila Vietnam 'mini'
Purple Cabomba
Red Myrio
Ambulia
Limnophila sp 'mini'
Ludwigia so Hybrid 'red' 
Bacopa Monieri
Myrio Mattogrosense
Rotala Colorata
Rotala Singapore
Ludwigia Brevipes
Hydrocotyle
Glossostigma elatinoides
Rotala Rotundifolia
Ludwigia Repens


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