# My Review: Odyssea CFS 500 Filter



## Capsaicin_MFK

Any pics of the inside of the filter?


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## OverStocked

I will have to take some next time around when I clean it. 

here is a pic of a clear version, it is layed out just like this, but does not have UV in it.


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## Sharkfood

Im very interested to see how this works out for you. If it's at all decent for $60, I'd say the value is unbeatable. At 480 gph there's plenty of flow to run a split outflow, even if there was a reactor on each line. I was considering replacing my fluval 405 with an FX5 for that reason, but if this filter ends up performing well for you, well, I could save hundreds of dollars. As long as it's reliable, and doesn't have much bypass, I'm sold.


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## OverStocked

It can't have "bypass" by design. water enters the top, goes into the white sponge then towards the bottom or towards the intake. The black sponge really is mainly a space filler... It can obviously harbor some bio. 

Another nice feature is the cord disconnects from the housing so it can be transported easily. 

The hoses have on/offs and a quick disconnect. Did I mention the hoses are HUGE?


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## GitMoe

Does it have flow control? If I wanted to run this on a smaller tank like maybe a 55g or lets get crazy and say even smaller almost 500GPH might be a little crazy...


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## TeamTeal

gonna test out any other ebay product?


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## hbosman

Since it filters from top to middle, you might be able to inject CO2 into the input hose. I wonder if it would make a good reactor as well as a filter. If so, that would really be awesome "bang for the buck".

Looking at it again, if it filters top to bottom shouldn't the course material be on top and fine material near bottom?


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## OverStocked

GitMoe said:


> Does it have flow control? If I wanted to run this on a smaller tank like maybe a 55g or lets get crazy and say even smaller almost 500GPH might be a little crazy...


While it does have flow control, in a way(there are on offs on each input/output, I do not think this would be too much flow for a 55. It'd be perfect.


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## OverStocked

hbosman said:


> Since it filters from top to middle, you might be able to inject CO2 into the input hose. I wonder if it would make a good reactor as well as a filter. If so, that would really be awesome "bang for the buck".
> 
> Looking at it again, if it filters top to bottom shouldn't the course material be on top and fine material near bottom?


Blue is a prefilter media that can be rinsed much easier than sponges. 

I was tempted to try it as a reactor, but had already built a cerges reactor. Though I just cracked another fitting for it so I have to go pick one up.


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## OverStocked

TeamTeal said:


> gonna test out any other ebay product?


I have been running an odyssea 2x54 watt t5ho for over a year. Love it. Also had a inline co2 atomizer for several months. I'm a sucker for a bargain.


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## GitMoe

over_stocked said:


> While it does have flow control, in a way(there are on offs on each input/output, I do not think this would be too much flow for a 55. It'd be perfect.


I'll be ordering one of these I guess. I'll throw some un-needed stuff I have on Craigslist and Ebay to cover it. Can't be out of pocket anymore money. Need to remedy a filter issue Im having. See my recent threads... Ugh.


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## OverStocked

The pic in the first post shows clearly the dimensions, The hoses attached only add an inch in vertical height as they go at an angle.


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## GitMoe

over_stocked said:


> The pic in the first post shows clearly the dimensions, The hoses attached only add an inch in vertical height as they go at an angle.


Watching your threads like a hawk! lol. I saw the diagram right after I posted my dimensions question and edited my post to remove the Q but you replied too quickly... Sorry.


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## RipariumGuy

Very interesting... Now someone has to review the light fixtures!


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## VincentK

Kind of off topic, but what kind of turtle do you have?


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## OverStocked

VincentK said:


> Kind of off topic, but what kind of turtle do you have?


Ornate wood Turtle




JakeJ said:


> Very interesting... Now someone has to review the light fixtures!


I have a odyssea fixture I am needing to review. Had it over a year.


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## jmowbray

over_stocked said:


> ]I have a odyssea fixture I am needing to review. Had it over a year.


I to have an odyssea fixture 4x54W with blue moon LEDs. I love it, however I had on problem with a short circuiting wire. They paid to ship it back and then to send it back which leaves me very happy since they clearly stated that I was to pay for shipping the item back if it was defective. 

Anyways.... just a little off topic....

Sorry.


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## OverStocked

Finally got my cerges reactor set up. Had to get 1" fittings and a little extra hose. The reactor almost cost me more than the filter!


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## jmowbray

over_stocked said:


> Finally got my cerges reactor set up. Had to get 1" fittings and a little extra hose. The reactor almost cost me more than the filter!


Mine only cost around $35 to make but it's so worth it....  Some people don't know what they are missing.


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## OverStocked

jmowbray said:


> Mine only cost around $35 to make but it's so worth it....  Some people don't know what they are missing.


I seem to be getting a few bubbles spitting out on occasion. NOt a ton, but some. 

Any idea on the cause?


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## OverStocked

still kicking strong. Still seem to get a bit of micro bubbles from the cerges reactor. Found that by lowering my output stream 1/4 inch causing less surface agitation almost gassed my fish in 3 hours.....


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## tuffgong

Justin,

How hard would it be to add a bag of purigen or some ceramic rings to the canister? It doesn't seem to have formal media trays.


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## OverStocked

Super easy. In a bag, all you'd need to do is plop it in. I have purigen between the white and blue sponge. You could even cut out a small area to fit more. I am going to add a second bag of purigen this week and will take pics.


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## chonhzilla

do you think its possible to replace the entire black sponge out and replace that with all media?


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## CRAIG1591

I'm interested in getting this filter, but I have a few questions first:
*Is the quality of this filter worth 1/2 the price of a Eheim 2217? IE: 4x Geo's and 8 rainbow's.
*How well would this filter go in a 75G??
*Also how easy do you think it would be to make a DIY spray bar for it?
*Is it wise to replace the black layer with ceramic noodles or Matrix? 

Thanks,
Craig


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## FSM

spraybars are very simple to make with PVC pipe. Use a threaded hose barb and a coupling to convert it to PVC and then use elbows, a length of PVC pipe with holes drilled in it, and a cap/plug.


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## OverStocked

CRAIG1591 said:


> I'm interested in getting this filter, but I have a few questions first:
> *Is the quality of this filter worth 1/2 the price of a Eheim 2217? IE: 4x Geo's and 8 rainbow's.
> *How well would this filter go in a 75G??
> *Also how easy do you think it would be to make a DIY spray bar for it?
> *Is it wise to replace the black layer with ceramic noodles or Matrix?
> 
> Thanks,
> Craig



This is on MY 75, it is doing very well. It is less than half of the price of a 2217. It has over twice the output of the 2217. A diy spraybar is no more complicated for this than any filter. As for the black layer, you could do that. The foam provides a good deal of bio surface as well though.


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## slugzed

oo, i have the same exact filter for my 65 gallon. works wonders and very very affordable. works really well as a reactor also. as for the black sponge, i used bio balls in it's place. truely recommended to anybody who's on a budget and needs a good filter. yes, and hoses are huge! 1".


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## CRAIG1591

slugzed said:


> oo, i have the same exact filter for my 65 gallon. works wonders and very very affordable. works really well as a reactor also. as for the black sponge, i used bio balls in it's place. truely recommended to anybody who's on a budget and needs a good filter. yes, and hoses are huge! 1".


OK another positive review.
How long has your's been up and running slugzed?
I ordered one today, hopefully I get it by the end of the week. I will let everyone know how well it performs.


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## OverStocked

I should also note mine was shipped by UPS expedited international, not EMS or other slower carriers typical of Chinese orders.


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## reybie

Any possibility of reducing the hose size? Will it choke?


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## OverStocked

I'm going to find out. Going to reduce it down to 3/4 for my custom lily pipes from onefang!


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## cah925

I also ordered one over the weekend. Looking forward to getting some extra flow in my tank.


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## Burks

Interesting. For $8 more than a much smaller eBay canister filter special (Perfect is the brand), you can get this monster.

Definitely something I'm going to consider for my 40g breeder shrimp/pleco tank.


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## archer772

I just ordered one also and should be here the 18th looking forward to seeing how it works out.


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## slugzed

CRAIG1591 said:


> OK another positive review.
> How long has your's been up and running slugzed?
> I ordered one today, hopefully I get it by the end of the week. I will let everyone know how well it performs.


mine's been up for about a month now. you won't be dissapointed!


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## CRAIG1591

I wasn't lucky enough to get mine before the weekend. 
Oh well I guess that's the price I pay for living in Australia. 

Craig..

EDIT:
Was anyone lucky enough to get their's today? How have you found it so far?


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## hbosman

I'd like to hear about anybody's experiences using it as a CO2 reactor as well.


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## OverStocked

I'm sure it would work well as a diffuser, as the pump is on the bottom. I have a cerjes style reactor, so I don't know for sure.


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## reybie

Did you try messing with the hoses yet? I'm curious to see if reducing the size is possible.


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## OverStocked

Not yet. LIkely next week sometime. I need to get suction cups for my pipes. I can't see a problem with reducing them. 3/4 inch hose will still have lots of room.


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## deleted_user_6

over_stocked said:


> I'm going to find out. Going to reduce it down to 3/4 for my custom lily pipes from caton!


wait.. who? I thought you got them from me :biggrin:


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## OverStocked

onefang said:


> wait.. who? I thought you got them from me :biggrin:


lol.... not sure how I ended up putting that...


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## CRAIG1591

I got mine today, it has been running for about 2 hours so far.
I am running the blue pad on top, followed by 6 bags of fluval bio-max and then the black sponge at the bottom. I decided against using the white middle sponge and instead put the bio-max.
I would recommend this filter to anyone setting up a tank of 75 gallons or more as it is easily worth the price.

Craig


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## elmatth1

I just hooked mine up today. I'm having a problem with water leaking around the nuts that tighten down the top. Anyone else have that problem, or know how to resolve it? I tried to tighten it more, then thought maybe it was too tight, so I loosened it some. Nothing. Was gonna put some vasoline around the o-rings in the lid, but I can't get them out.


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## archer772

I just got mine running about 7 hours ago and no problems at all. I am trying to find a good direction to aim the return because it keeps pulling some of my plants out. This thing has alot more flow than my Fluval 403 IMO and did any body say this thing has HUGE hoses, intake strainer and return nossle :biggrin:


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## cah925

I got mine hooked up last night. I reduced the 1" hose to 5/8" so I didn't have to rebuild my entire spraybar. First, I boiled the end of the hose to soften it, then slid in a 3/4" threaded coupling. I used the plastic hose clamps that came with the filter for the 1" hose connection and tightened it with a pair of pliers while it was still somewhat soft. From there, I added a brass threaded 1/2"-5/8" barb with metal clamp and attached to my existing setup. I'm not sure if there will be any long term effects on the pump by doing this, but so far, so good. The spraybar for this filter is about 4 1/2 feet long at the bottom of my tank and it pushes the water all the way across for good flow throughout. I haven't had any problems with leaks at all. Just make sure the lid is screwed on real tight.
I really like this filter. It's small, quiet and pretty darn powerful. What else can you ask for?


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## Green Leaf Aquariums

Down sizing your tubing will reduce flow and create more heat at the pump. Feed the pump, not starve If your going to get a filter this large, why not use to its full potential?


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## elmatth1

Well, I e-mailed the guys at topdogsellers on e-bay and they got back to me right away and had several suggestions for me to try. Nothing worked and I let the filter run all night and put it in a large bucket to collect the water it leaks. It ended up leaking alot of water and made the cracks in the lid visible by morning. So, I e-mailed them again and even though I had purchased the filter several months ago, and it was well past the 30 day guarentee, they offered to send me out a replacement lid for the price of shipping only. Talk about a great seller! I know this is not the place for giving experiences with sellers, but that is just awesome. So, that was the issue with my filter. Hopefully the new lid gets here and works fine, because this filter is a beast!


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## OverStocked

Did my first filter cleaning today. Surprised how little gunk was in there... Flow output is noticeable. It was about 5 mins to clean it and fill and reassemble. I recommend putting vasoline on the input and output stems, as I cracked one but was able to superglue it to normal. Otherwise I am very happy. I added two packs of purigen to this beast, too. See how they do in a few days.


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## OverStocked

So some pics from inside before and after cleaning:
after opening, this is the prefilter. Rinsed rather quickly. 








Bio rings near pump








Black foam over bio rings








Purigen packs on top of black foam, under tan foam








Tan foam, followed by blue

















Filled with water and top secured

















Notice that part of the fitting broke off here in the back fitting. Well, I super glued it back on and we're good to go. Not sure how it happened. 

THis filter has worked well and came out with very little overall gunk in the filter. I am very pleased, so far. I will let it run two months this time to see how it preforms.


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## Clint

Just about to order one of these for my new turtle tank. 

but the adds no longer mention the black bottom sponge, only the blue pad and white sponge. :/


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## OverStocked

Clint said:


> Just about to order one of these for my new turtle tank.
> 
> but the adds no longer mention the black bottom sponge, only the blue pad and white sponge. :/


Mine did not either. It was from the current seller and the page looks identical. If for some reason it didn;t come with one, and I'm pretty sure it will... you could fill the bottom with bio rings, bio balls, pot scrubbies, etc.


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## nalu86

I bought the odyssea cfs 500 3 months ago, I use it on my 55G tank.
The filter came with bio bals instead of the black sponge.
When I installed the filter I noticed there was a lot of water flow, so I closed the valves a little bit. I let it run like this for over 2 weeks and then decided to make a spray bar. This was pretty easy. I never had any problems with this filter, I love it. My water is sparkly clear, even do I use Indian almond leaves in it. I only use the original sponges and bio balls in it.

I would recommended this Filter to everyone!! Good value, quality, cheap!!
Ow yeah, My 55G is in my bedroom and doesn't make sound, most quiet filter I ever had!


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## CRAIG1591

nalu86 said:


> I bought the odyssea cfs 500 3 months ago, I use it on my 55G tank.
> The filter came with bio bals instead of the black sponge.
> When I installed the filter I noticed there was a lot of water flow, so I closed the valves a little bit. I let it run like this for over 2 weeks and then decided to make a spray bar. This was pretty easy. I never had any problems with this filter, I love it. My water is sparkly clear, even do I use Indian almond leaves in it. I only use the original sponges and bio balls in it.
> 
> I would recommended this Filter to everyone!! Good value, quality, cheap!!
> Ow yeah, My 55G is in my bedroom and doesn't make sound, most quiet filter I ever had!


What size tubing did you use for the spray bar?
What size and how many holes did you drill in it?

Craig


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## nalu86

CRAIG1591 said:


> What size tubing did you use for the spray bar?
> What size and how many holes did you drill in it?
> 
> Craig


I took the outlet tube of, took it to Home depot (do it yourself store) and started searching fo parts that fit on it. I found a 90° elbow for sprinkle installation, got some 1'' airtube (or whatever flexible hose) 36'' pvc 3/4'' tube and endcap. This is just a way of improvising. 

When I came home I heated the flexible hose to fit over the parts. 
I drilled holes in the pipe every 2-3'' I think the size is about 4-5 mm maybe bigger.

I used suction cups to install it. It doesnt look like much, but grow some moss over it and it looks fine. There is still a lot of waterflow so point the spaybars holes to the back.

I just did an easy way to go sprybar, this is not professional!


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## OverStocked

If I can ever get this mess with my shipping sorted out and caught up on other orders, I will finish replacing the intake/output with my Acrylic pipes from Paul. They are 3/4 OD, so it is a considerable reduction. I am not sure how it will work.


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## MARIMOBALL

over_stocked said:


> If I can ever get this mess with my shipping sorted out and caught up on other orders, I will finish replacing the intake/output with my Acrylic pipes from Paul. They are 3/4 OD, so it is a considerable reduction. I am not sure how it will work.


My filter shipped out today. How long does it usually take? Also post pick with the new pipes when u set it up cuz i wanna order some too.


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## slugzed

MARIMOBALL said:


> My filter shipped out today. How long does it usually take? Also post pick with the new pipes when u set it up cuz i wanna order some too.


i'm here in cali and bought from topdogseller many times. i usually get my stuff within 2 days. no bull[censored][censored][censored][censored]!


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## slugzed

over_stocked said:


> So some pics from inside before and after cleaning:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Notice that part of the fitting broke off here in the back fitting. Well, I super glued it back on and we're good to go. Not sure how it happened.
> 
> THis filter has worked well and came out with very little overall gunk in the filter. I am very pleased, so far. I will let it run two months this time to see how it preforms.


Mine broke also, TWICE!. I think that part is very weak where the quick disconnect is at. Must be very carefull when pulling and make sure you pull it STRAIGHT up to avoid breaking it. Anyways, topdogseller is topnotch and will make you pay only shipping for a new lid even if your a couple of days out of the 30 day warranty. The filter is badass for the price. Better than the fluval 305 (159.99 @ Petsmart) i used during the downtime i think. Water is crystal clear and makes a great reactor!


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## Clint

Well my CFS 500 arrived today, it did come with the two sponges and filter pad, but instead of the standard type of hose canisters come with, it has two plastic ribbed hoses that are only 3 feet long. And my lid had cracks where the plastic nuts hold it down.

This thing is HUGE, i had no idea how big this thing is. It looks like a small pool filter. lol


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## MARIMOBALL

Mine came with a black sponge, white sponge and top blue sponge. The valves to adjust the flow are stuck so I can only have it at full blast. This thing is a beast it is too strong for my ADA 120P aprox 70 gallons. all the green neon tetras get blown away, and im afraid it will suck some of the chilli rasboras. I wrapped a sponge around the intake strainer. I never thought I would say this but this is too much flow for a planted tank. If I had stem plants it blow half of them off the substrate. I only have glosso so no worries there. Im gonna leave it on during the day lnly for now until the flow reduces a little. Ill also try to remove the nozzle to even out the outflow. Over all it is a great filter. I can see this in a SW set up with no need for any koralia pumps to increase the flow.


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## Clint

did yours come with the vinyl hoses or the plastic ribbed hoses? I can see the smaller plastic ribbed hosed redicing flow (i haven't tested the filter yet, waiting on a new lid)

My valves were stuck too, but since i just got it and could get a replacement if they broke, i gave it a good crank and it broke free, now they move some what easily, still stiff, but some resistance is good.


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## nalu86

MARIMOBALL said:


> Mine came with a black sponge, white sponge and top blue sponge. The valves to adjust the flow are stuck so I can only have it at full blast. This thing is a beast it is too strong for my ADA 120P aprox 70 gallons. all the green neon tetras get blown away, and im afraid it will suck some of the chilli rasboras. I wrapped a sponge around the intake strainer. I never thought I would say this but this is too much flow for a planted tank. If I had stem plants it blow half of them off the substrate. I only have glosso so no worries there. Im gonna leave it on during the day lnly for now until the flow reduces a little. Ill also try to remove the nozzle to even out the outflow. Over all it is a great filter. I can see this in a SW set up with no need for any koralia pumps to increase the flow.


Yeah, just give them a good crank and they will close, its really hard.
At first I didn't find it neither but after reading the instruction on the box I could close them.

Make a spry bar and everything will be alright with ur waterflow!


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## MARIMOBALL

nalu86 said:


> Yeah, just give them a good crank and they will close, its really hard.
> At first I didn't find it neither but after reading the instruction on the box I could close them.
> 
> Make a spry bar and everything will be alright with ur waterflow!


yeah thats what im thinking but dont want to risk it i gonna get a custom spray bar from onefang. Mine came with vinyl green hose.


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## Brownthumb07

I got mine the other day and using it as a reactor also. Works like a charm and the flow on this thing is amazing. Right now I have this and an eheim 2217 on my 125. Going to get one more to replace the eheim and move it to my 29g.


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## Clint

A NOTE TO ANYONE THAT GETS THE CHEAP RIBBED PLASTIC HOSES:

It turns out that each hose has two different sized openings, i didnt find this out until I heated up one end to force it onto the red valve. There is actually a wider end for that, although it would still be a good idea to heat it before pushing it on, it is still a snug fit.

Also, those hose clamps will not even come close to working with the plastic hose, they are too big around. But if you heat it to put it on, it should shrink as it cools for a nice tight fit.


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## irbenson

Has anyone purchased both this filter and the sunsun? I would love a comparison between the two


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## OverStocked

I have.... i wrote both reviews....


irbenson said:


> Has anyone purchased both this filter and the sunsun? I would love a comparison between the two




Sent from my DINC


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## Walter40229

I got 2 of them yesterday and its got great flow. I don't know if its just coincidence but my corys are laying eggs now.


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## ridewake210

Monster filters. 

I dont have the room for one under my aquarium or else i would have went this
route instead of my XP4


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## snausage

I actually came across this filter on amazon yesterday and was intrigued by the price tag. But after parsing the thread, I realize that it's a total waste of space and $60


Keep in mind that too much flow through your principle filter is NOT a good thing because the beneficial bacteria won't be able to attach itself in the media. For those of you who own aquaclear HOBs, if you look through the instructions you'll notice that Hagen recommends that you *turn the flow down* to enhance your bio filtration. 

If you're obsessed with flow, buy a powerhead.


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## tuffgong

Bio filtration is not a concern in planted tanks for the most part.


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## snausage

tuffgong said:


> Bio filtration is not a concern in planted tanks for the most part.


I agree, but having a filter that actually works certainly is, as well as keeping your plants in the substrate.


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## OverStocked

snausage said:


> I actually came across this filter on amazon yesterday and was intrigued by the price tag. But after parsing the thread, I realize that it's a total waste of space and $60
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that too much flow through your principle filter is NOT a good thing because the beneficial bacteria won't be able to attach itself in the media. For those of you who own aquaclear HOBs, if you look through the instructions you'll notice that Hagen recommends that you *turn the flow down* to enhance your bio filtration.
> 
> If you're obsessed with flow, buy a powerhead.


Well.... I'm going to disagree, completely. Having taken the media out of my prior filter and plopping it in here, it had no problem staying. I never once had anything close to a cycle. 

Further, on a larger tank(over 50g) lots of flow that isn't attached tot the filter isn't nearly as effective. This filter fills up with gunk that my older filter just left in the tank... 

I'd respectfully ask that since you've never used one, save your judgement. I bet you wouldn't say the FX5 is too high flow for bacteria.... and since having had this running, I haven't had a single problem, despite 2 95% water changes.


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## OverStocked

snausage said:


> I agree, but having a filter that actually works certainly is, as well as keeping your plants in the substrate.


What doesn't work? If you cant figure out how to anchor plants to a substrate then perhaps this hobby isn't for you... I have never once had a problem with the flow in this filter, and I have a koralia nano and koralia 1 in this tank too. 

The only single problem is the on/off valves are sticky at first. When I got my first eheim the plastic housing where the clips clipped onto had to be trimmed to fit.... Sh... happens.


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## hydrocynus

*Broken heads too!*

I bought the Odyssea CFS 500 for a tad longer than most of you guys. I received mine in September and I am using it for a 35 gallons aquarium. It is over sized but I wanted super clean water and good flow for a reef aquarium with LED fixtures. I have split the return hoses in half so that there good turbulent flow inside the tank. 

Like many of you guys, the in and out heads mounted on the lid of the canister broke. It was quite inconspicuous at first with some minor dripping here and there. I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out what was going on until I found out that the heads were partially cut. 

The problem: The plastic wall at the connector heads is way too thin, typically less than a millimeter. If you rotate the red coupling on it, this clamp has enough force to eat your plastic and then cut through it like a tube cutter would. 

I emailed topdogs and he agreed to send me a new lid for 10 dollars since my pump was out of warranty (30 days sucks!). 

In the meanwhile, I have epoxied using epoxy marine grade putty two 1/2" PC pipes. The hoses are clamped onto it using metal clamps. I have not changed the lid yet as I have more confidence in this setup than in the original lid. 

I will use this lid only AFTER I glue into the connectors a PVC pipe to increase the wall thickness. The plastic is not only thin wall, but it seems soft too. 

Other than that, the pump has good flow and works flawlessly. I also received it with bioballs instead of the black foam. 

Here is a picture of the broken lid. 









Retrospectively, I should have bought a brand name pump. More money, but this could have been a disaster if the pump emptied 35 gallons of saltwater in my living room. Lesson learned here.


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## Deltad

can you please post a pic of how you epoxied the connectors to increased the wall thickness


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## hydrocynus

There you go.

Temporary fix that looks like permanent now. 









Fixing the thin plastic wall. Better to go with the thin walled PVC instead of this one. Maybe in the future as it is glued in now. LOL.








Cheers.


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## Deltad

thanks for the pic!

what kind of epoxy did you use to connect the pcv w/ the plastic wall?


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## ridewake210

Looks like PVC primer and probably just PVC cement


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## hydrocynus

Yes, sand the pvc outside wall, sand the inside of the connector. Add the primer, then glue using the PVC glue. Apply generous amounts to be sure that there will be no leaks once the pump's connector fails, because soon or later all of you guys owning this pump will experience this problem. 

Hydro


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## trit0n2003

hey all, im looking at getting this filter and changing out my two 55 gallon HOBs. all the reviews for this product have been really good so far so that is a big plus!

i had a question though. since ive never used a canister filter before, 
how does the filtering work? 
do i change out filter pads every 3 weeks or so like HOBs? 
Also in the picture of what comes with the filter is just a filter pad and sponge.. where is the carbon filtration?


anything else you could tell me would be awesome cause i want this as my xmas gift lol


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## trit0n2003

also i saw these parts on aquatraders.com for the CFS4, would these help with the problem of the in and out tubes cracking on the lid?


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## FSM

snausage said:


> I actually came across this filter on amazon yesterday and was intrigued by the price tag. But after parsing the thread, I realize that it's a total waste of space and $60
> 
> 
> Keep in mind that too much flow through your principle filter is NOT a good thing because the beneficial bacteria won't be able to attach itself in the media. For those of you who own aquaclear HOBs, if you look through the instructions you'll notice that Hagen recommends that you *turn the flow down* to enhance your bio filtration.
> 
> If you're obsessed with flow, buy a powerhead.


You're just speculating. What evidence is there to support your claim?


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## hydrocynus

I do not like to publicize much about what I do for a living, but I am an aquatic ecologist (marine, estuarine, freshwater lentic and lotic systems, and transient systems such as wetlands). I focus on algae and macrophytes but also biofilms such as periphyton (an attached community of algae, fungi, protozoans, invertebrates, bacteria and more).

Flow velocity will control the biofilm community and in a dark environment the bacterial dominant community (no algae here). As flow increases, the boundary layer thickness will decrease. This said, I do not think that the flow in the pump will be too detrimental to the bacterial community. You just select bacteria that attach better to the various substrata in the canister and I do not think that the boundary layer thickness is so thin that it will prevent a healthy bacterial biofilm from settling down. I very much doubt that much sloughing of the biofilm occurs also. 

That filter seems good beside the lid that really needs to be improved (see my previous posts). For this reason, I did not buy more filters to equip my lab. I will stick to Eheim for my research. But I am not paying here, the grant does. 

My 0.02. 
Hydro


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## reybie

You should write something about algae control  (please!)


----------



## OverStocked

hydrocynus said:


> I do not like to publicize much about what I do for a living, but I am an aquatic ecologist (marine, estuarine, freshwater lentic and lotic systems, and transient systems such as wetlands). I focus on algae and macrophytes but also biofilms such as periphyton (an attached community of algae, fungi, protozoans, invertebrates, bacteria and more).
> 
> Flow velocity will control the biofilm community and in a dark environment the bacterial dominant community (no algae here). As flow increases, the boundary layer thickness will decrease. This said, I do not think that the flow in the pump will be too detrimental to the bacterial community. You just select bacteria that attach better to the various substrata in the canister and I do not think that the boundary layer thickness is so thin that it will prevent a healthy bacterial biofilm from settling down. I very much doubt that much sloughing of the biofilm occurs also.
> 
> That filter seems good beside the lid that really needs to be improved (see my previous posts). For this reason, I did not buy more filters to equip my lab. I will stick to Eheim for my research. But I am not paying here, the grant does.
> 
> My 0.02.
> Hydro


Further, the way this filter is designed, the area at the bottom(bio) is not in full flow of the pump. As the pump is in the center and pulling down, the bio area is not nearly as prone to high flow as the top portions.


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## CWO4GUNNER

*Breaking news!*

I discovered the problem of the snapping canister lid gray flow ports. It is not from cutting as I have confirmed no sharp internal edges or protruding edges. The braking off is due to inadvertent operator handling stress of the orange connector valves being forced on and off . I have measures and compared the gray port thickness with that of the FX5 which have identical port thickness and design, even the orange coupling valves are identical except the CFS500 orange couplers are a little thinner. I repeat the gray lid ports are being overstressed and snapping off right at the location of the O-rings not because of cutting but sheering due to stress from both the user struggling to seat the coupling valves on and off, but also the O-rings themselves over time are creating stress fractures at these points because they are over-sized and have no tolerance and in fact are being over compressed into the gray plastic lid ports at the o-ring site with hundreds of PSI. 
Upon being told to read reading this thread from where I home at AC I decided to investigate because I have modified this filter for my needs as well and have been puzzled by the over-tightness of the couplings and reports of failures. I noted that the orange couplings and gray ports are identical to my FX5 in design and that although both the FX5 and CFS500 orange couplers snap easily into place on the FX5 lid ports and hold water under operation, conversely both the FX5 and CFS500 orange couplers have a very harder time installing onto the CFS500 lid ports only with great downward pressure do they install and do not swivel easily at all. What I discovered was that after comparing the 0-ring sized on the identical ports of the FX5 and CFS500 the FX5 O-rings are much thinner by ½ and can be removed with a finger nail while the o-rings on the CFS500 are twice as thick and tight and are extremely difficult to remove even with a rounded edge screwdriver because they fit so tightly and are so fat. After experimenting by swapping out the o-rings on opposite canister lids I discovered that the problem and difficulties were duplicated on the FX5 using the thicker o-rings and conversely the couplers of both brands (FX5 & CFS500) installed easily with only slight hand pressure almost falling and clicking into place on the CFS500 lid using the FX5 thinner O-rings and did not leak any water under operational pressures even while twisting the coupler easily with 1 finger from side to side, all binding previously experienced was gone. 

CONCLUSION. Buy the thinner O-rings identical to the FX5 which I hope can be purchased at a pluming hardware store, or buy FX5 O-ring replacements for the CFS500 filter lid coupler. This will eliminate the heavy handed binding to install and remove orange valve couplings on the CFS500 that even I had a hard time with, the thinner O-rings will allow the tolerance needed to without overstressing the plastics due to high PSI O-ring pressure between the plastics which unlike metal will fail. The difference in taking this step is like night and day. Note in the photo below the thicker CFS O-rings on the left compared to the FX5 O-rings on the right, the fat O-rings are the culprit here. 








*Below is a link to my CFS500 MODs*
http://www.aquariacentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239484


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## mott

Glad to see you made it over Gunner, guy's check out his cfs500 mod in his sig, it's pretty awesome!


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## CWO4GUNNER

*New replacement pluming O-ring for CFS500/FX5/Fluval 404-405*

I was able to match up the O-ring for the FX5 which was an exact match and only cost $0.58 a pair at Lowe's in the pluming section. Ironically it is also the same exact same size O-ring the Fluval 404/405 uses on their aqua-stop valve. There were only 5 boxes so I grabbed 4, after that continued shopping for other items I needed like a 100 pound bag of medium grit construction sand ($8), two 15a power strips ($3) exc, exc, I even remembered to take a 10% veteran discount by showing my Mil ID. Back home I decided to immediately try the O-rings by replacing the old on both the FX5 and CFS500. Now both sets of orange coupling valves slide down with mild hand pressure all the way to the base and click lock without having to use any force on the CFS500. Also removal of the orange valve couplings is as easy as pushing the unlocking button and the coupling slides off with one hand easy lifting, no more having to hold one valve on the CFS500 with 2 hands mashing the release button while twisting the valve back and forth binding and pulling up with all your muscles shaking and stressing, only to have the coupling suddenly brake-free from the old oversized o-rings flying off from and smacking the top of the inside cabinet with you knuckles (why the lid ports would eventually brake) . In addition now when you move the CFS canister while running the coupling valves swival easily with no more binding and no leaking. Both canisters have been running with the new O-rings for 2 hours now with no issues. Below the box, part number and size, this is what you need to buy for your CFS500 to fix the lid port/ valve coupling problem.


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## Wasserpest

Seems like an excellent deal. Couple of questions from an inquiring mind...

Has anyone with a Kill-A-Watt meter had a chance to measure the energy usage? 
And has anyone with a flow meter measured the actual flow with media inserted?
And has anyone found a place to buy more/replacement sponges?

This could be a worthy replacement for my XP3 which does 250gal/hr @ 28Watts. Working well, but a larger canister might be in order to reduce the cleaning intervals and increase the flow a bit.


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## OverStocked

I broke my kill-a-watt, so I can't confirm anything on that side. A guy on another forum did tests with media at 4 foot head(i think) and got 240gph repeatedly. Mine sure seams like more than that, but even then, 240gph with media is pretty good.


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## OverStocked

Also, the sponges shouldn't need replacing... often. Much like the sponge in an aquaclear filter. The first pad could easily be replaced with filter floss, or my favorite media: walmart rolled quilt batting.


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## CWO4GUNNER

The link I posted earlier about my review and modifications resulted in a 4ft head test with full media using a measured 5 gallon container and a stopwatch resulting in 240 GPH. This is actually pretty high considering that all manufactures of name-brand and generic filters double there rated GPH. So for all piratical purposes you could consider the GPH to be a true 480 GPH manufactured rating lol. 

As far as replacement sponges go its really not an issue because since the motor housing is easily removable any sponge can be traced to have a custom fit easily. If this were not the case then replacement sponges might be a concern due to bypass. But in this case if you can draw with a sharpie and use a pair of scissors, you all set. To day while shopping I was looking over some some giant kidney shaped cleaning sponges for $3 and imagining how they would fit. 

As far as power goes all my canister filters FX5, Magnum 350, CFS500, and Sunsun 302 are all on analog $5 timers running 30 minutes on / 30 minutes off with no appreciable loss of performance. Because just like a refrigeration or air conditioning unit, once a tank has reached its max volume in 30 minutes or an hour the canister is just spinning its wheels and might a s well take a short brake just like the eb and flow tidal forces in nature. Iv been doing it for more then a year and it works great. Contrary to popular conjecture that beneficial bacteria cannot survive in a canister without power for more then a few minutes is far from true and I have done the experiments to prove it, my canister bacteria has lasting durations longer then 8 hours extended periods of time turned off with no change whatsoever in water perimeters, however I found the the optimal cycling for all my canisters is between 30 minutes to 1 hours ON/OFF which saves allot on power and ware and tear.


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## Wasserpest

CWO4GUNNER said:


> The link I posted earlier about my review and modifications resulted in a 4ft head test with full media using a measured 5 gallon container and a stopwatch resulting in 240 GPH. This is actually pretty high considering that all manufactures of name-brand and generic filters double there rated GPH. So for all piratical purposes you could consider the GPH to be a true 480 GPH manufactured rating lol.


Thanks for doing all that testing. Different filters behave differently. Some say Eheims are rated with their media in place. I know my 350gph rated XP3 spits out about 250gph with media, and my 38W Unimax 700, rated at 425gph, delivers 350gph.

The way you measured the output isn't typical for canister filters (closed loop), but it proves that the flow will be quite a bit > 240gph. I figured someone might have a cheapo flow meter to verify.



CWO4GUNNER said:


> As far as replacement sponges go its really not an issue because since the motor housing is easily removable any sponge can be traced to have a custom fit easily. If this were not the case then replacement sponges might be a concern due to bypass. But in this case if you can draw with a sharpie and use a pair of scissors, you all set. To day while shopping I was looking over some some giant kidney shaped cleaning sponges for $3 and imagining how they would fit.


Good point, but be careful with cleaning sponges since they can contain fungicides/mildewcides which could wipe out most living organisms in your tank. Also sounds like the seller doesn't include the black sponge anymore.



CWO4GUNNER said:


> As far as power goes all my canister filters FX5, Magnum 350, CFS500, and Sunsun 302 are all on analog $5 timers running 30 minutes on / 30 minutes off with no appreciable loss of performance. Because just like a refrigeration or air conditioning unit, once a tank has reached its max volume in 30 minutes or an hour the canister is just spinning its wheels and might a s well take a short brake just like the eb and flow tidal forces in nature. Iv been doing it for more then a year and it works great. Contrary to popular conjecture that beneficial bacteria cannot survive in a canister without power for more then a few minutes is far from true and I have done the experiments to prove it, my canister bacteria has lasting durations longer then 8 hours extended periods of time turned off with no change whatsoever in water perimeters, however I found the the optimal cycling for all my canisters is between 30 minutes to 1 hours ON/OFF which saves allot on power and ware and tear.


Interesting. I don't quite follow since the rivers that our fish come from don't have much in terms of tidal forces, and I am at loss what you mean by "once a tank has reached its max volume", but thanks for sharing your method.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Wasserpest said:


> Interesting. I don't quite follow since the rivers that our fish come from don't have much in terms of tidal forces, and I am at loss what you mean by "once a tank has reached its max volume", but thanks for sharing your method.


Well tidal forces was intended to be one example to prompt the concept. While it my seem like an all season rivers don't change much in volume to the casual observer, it is a know fact that at the very least there are seasonal water level and course changes to all natural rivers. Here in the SW we have seasonal rivers that go from dry to tsunami size in a matter of minutes with fish. Anyway my point is I have found filter cycling cost effective, engineering wise and naturally adaptable to my bio. Basically all upside. :icon_mrgr


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## OverStocked

Starting and stopping electric motors is typically much harder on them than letting them run. I do not think there is really any good reason to turn them off, other than saving a little money. I was surprised how little money my aquarium actually cost to run though.... (before I stepped on my kill-a-watt and smashed it). 

I think as a whole, you are likely reducing the bacteria count in your filter doing this. Sure, your tank may not suffer any problems from it... but that does not make this ideal in any way. Really, it is just creating another failure point, and noise I don't need to hear. I despise the sound of mechanical timers.


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## CWO4GUNNER

I must admit cycling all 13 of my canisters only dropped my electric bill by $50 to $60 a month. But when you add that to all the other ways one can frugal it all adds up to very wise way to live, save and stay out of debt.


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## ddtran46

over_stocked, how is your filter doing so far? My brother is looking for a canister filter soon for his 55 gallon and I told him about this filter.


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## Deltad

I'm also thinking of getting this. Probably going to sell one of my eheim 2213 to make some funding for this... 

Probably going to put 2 of these on my 120g planted


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## CWO4GUNNER

Hi everyone I wanted to post added info on the CFS500 but apparently Im having trouble posting so this is a test to see if it me or the system.

OK here is my input:
After 30 years in the service I was trained to be objective when it comes to evaluations and so I can tell you truthfully that I am impressed with the amount of flow this canister puts out. Understand that when I first tested the GPH in my review the canister was filled with media in its stock configuration with only about 50 square inches of top surface area. Now the entire circumference of the filter exposed for filtering 300 square inches, I believe the GPH has increased significantly although I haven't tested it, I will soon run another 5 gallon 4 foot head pressure test with stop watch. My hope is its now putting out a true 350 GPH which is like 700 GPH on box ratings. If you decide to get this filter I do recommend the circumference mod for high performance but if you do nothing else I strenuously recommend that before you attempt to force the orange gate valves onto the canister ports that you lubricate them with Petroleum jelly or silicone lube and working it into the joints by gently open and closing, but most importantly that before attempt to force them down on the canister ports that you replace the incorrect oversize O-rings that come on the canister lid ports with the part numbers I provided in my earlier post on this thread. Even forcing them on and off just once with those bad stock O-rings runs the chance of snapping off the canister lid ports because those oversized O-rings are so over-sized they literally bind the neck to a braking point. The O-rings I recommend will make placing the orange gate valves on & off the canister lid ports as easy as plugging in electric cord, without leaking and able to swivel as intended, just like the FX5 which has the identical orange gate valve and lid port configuration using the right size o-ring.


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## Deltad

Thank you CWO4Gunner for testing this. The info you've provided will certainly lean me i the direction of getting one!

they should pay you for this. lol


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## AngelfishKid

Do you think that this filter is capable of handling the bio-load of a 55 gallon with growing Angelfish in them? Maybe at most 50ish babies in the tank?


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## CWO4GUNNER

To try and be honest, when I first got back into the hobby and my 1st large CL buy was a 10 year old Oceanic 120 tall tank and the only filter I had to run it was a Magnum 350 and I was stocked with 2 paired angels, a Gobi dragon common pleco, 4 silver dollars, and a bunch of mollies and platy's. Anyway I did that for a long time with a clean tank and have most of the same fish today including the paired vial angels. My point is understanding the Mag350's max capability, the CFS500 is at least 1.5 times as effective as the Mag 350 but far easier to clean and much more endurance IMO. The CFS500 modified will be more filter for a 50-75 gallon tank then you ever expected.


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## Deltad

Gunner: since you have both the sunsun and this Odyssea, which one do you think is a better buy?


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## CWO4GUNNER

For the price the Sunsun was hard to beat for stacked basket convenience and Sunsun was a good compromise as an auxiliary filter I could afford fast. Also as far as basket filter design goes I believe the Sunsun is as good if not better then any of the big name brand stacked basket design filters in its class costing hundreds more. 

Having said all that, anyone who has read my threads on the superiority of circumference filter technology and design knows that there is really no comparison to circumference filter efficiency and load capacity in both mechanical and bio filtration capability. Add to that the benefit of a bottom submerged pump design over a dry top lid design which is much more difficult to start and keep primed and the choice is clear.

Up until my personal discovery of the CFS500 and its easy mods which turn it into a virtual little brother of the FX5 circumference filter for the price of a Sunsun, the choice for me became obvious. I regret not following my intuition and tested the CFS500 a year ago and saved my self time and money becasue now Ill be replacing both my Mag 350 and Sunsuns with the CFS500 and will need to sell those other filters. With my mods the CFS500 is the 1st 120 gallon capacity circumference filter I have owned that can be changed out in 5 minutes by squeezing out a sponge and tossing OFF and ON a new poly-quilt batting which I believe will show to have substantial polishing (displacing my Mag 250's) and endurance (6 month) capability. 

So for me the CFS500 for only $58 shipped with its powerful bottom pump and simple modification making it a circumference powerhouse filter, has changed everything. So when you ask me about comparisons one TV commercial comes to mind. "THIS" being the CFS500 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfJnqbudMzs *Incidentally my 2nd CFS500 arrived yesterday.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Let me add a few more words to my last post to give balance to my enthusiasm over the CFS500. My enthusiasm is over the results of of the CFS500 performance as a result of my modifications. If your going to use the CFS500 in its stock configuration with the incorrect oversize O-rings that make it very difficult to connect and disconnect and maintain the stock surface surface area of 80 square inches where the top of the filter is only exposed, then in my honest opinion your probubly better off with the Sunsun becasue at least it is mod free ready and has about the same exposed in-line surface area as the CSF500 stock. Also for those that just prefer in-line stacked-basket filters, the Sunsun is the clear choice. 

But for those with an elementary understanding of "geometric surface area filtration" and hydraulics, the CFS500 with its modified 300 square inches of surface area, bottom pump design, relative high GPH, and ease of maintenance for $58 make it a very exciting filter for those that can appreciate and MOD it. Like the FX5 this filters industrial roots is not for everyone.


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## Wasserpest

Got infected by all your enthusiasm and went ahead and bought one. I will measure the energy usage when it is installed, as well as the flow via my cheapo flow meter.

Wondering if the Oxygen 10 sponge could be a good match for this. It's 7.25" in diameter and 4" tall I think, and has a lot of volume to catch debris.

<<off to hunt for some O-rings>>


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## CWO4GUNNER

Just remember with circumference filter tecnology low bulk-high density media is intended for the farthest outer orbit of the filter surface, and high bulk-low density for the inner orbits progressively. Place that high bulk-high density sponge inside the CFS500 and you will be defeating the whole premise and purpose of circumference filter technology and it will degradate flow, endurance, efficiency and capability. I can say that confidently without need for testing just based on the design premise.


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## Wasserpest

This filter appears to pull water through the filter media from several areas (top -> down, but if the media doesn't block the flow along the sides, also bottom outside -> inside). Could be that as one high density sponge fills up with debris, the filter pulls more water through the low density media. Which would be visible by reduced removal of very fine particles. Or it starts to get blocked entirely, visible by reduced flow.

In the end it will depend on the tank/stocking how fast things clog up, and it will become obvious when cleaning out the filter. Some folks fill up there filters with ceramic noodles etc and can run them for many months, others use sponges and have to clean them out more frequently. All depends on your intended purpose.


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## trit0n2003

I'm getting the sunsun for Xmas! My gf just bought it cause I didn't feel like having to do any mods. Thanks for all the info everyone


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## CWO4GUNNER

trit0n2003 said:


> I'm getting the sunsun for Xmas! My gf just bought it cause I didn't feel like having to do any mods. Thanks for all the info everyone


 Good choice! its important to recognize the balance between your needs, tasks, requirements and investments. The CFS500 like the FX5 is not for everyone.


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## CWO4GUNNER

One additional important point for those not used to tightening down a multi-lug lid like on the FX5 or CFS500:

FX5/CFS500 canister lid warping. This issue is very common especially on the FX5 which has a larger lid an is more prone to warping due to operator mishandling and over-tightening. Because the lid O-ring and canister body knife edge provides all the sealing needed, only a small amount of tightening force is required on the lid lugs to make this seal happen. Lid lugs are tightened evenly finger tight using only the weight of your hand about 1 to 2 foot pound of torque. You start with all lugs loose, makeing sure the canister "out-flow-PVC tube" is aligned with the canister lid "Out-flow-Port marked "Out". Then pick a lug and twist it until the slack is out (NO tightening yet!) then do the same with the lug directly across (NOT next to) from the one you just took the slack out of and repeat (slack out only!), pick another lug and repeat the process until all lugs have slack out. Then start over again and pick a lug and give it some turns until you feel SLIGHT resistance then do the same to the lug directly across and repeat this slight-tight process until all the lugs are barely snug with the force of a plastic lid on your water conditioner bottle SLIGHT-TIGHT. If you bare down to much or repeat the tightening process too much you will warp the lid and strip the orange nylon finger bolts on the top of the steel bolts or crack the little orange retainer lugs on the bottom of the canister body lock-down rim. This is why basket canisters have people proof no-thought latches to make it easier but not necessarily better. For most this is common knowledge but for some it is all new. But that is the proper way to tighten a multi-lug hatch lid.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Alrighty-then, for those interested in buying this canister, as you know I posted earlier on the new O-rings you will need for the IN/OUT valve ports at a cost of about $0.58 a pair at Lowes. Well good news I found a better price at Home Depot at the plumbing section matching the workable ID, OD & wall thickness. In fact these fit and work even better. The really good news is they come in a package of 10 O-rings for less then $2 and since you require 2 for each port and they also fit the IN/OUT ports on the FX5 and Fluval 404/405, for the price they are good to have on hand.


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## smackpixi

Gunner,

I've read your posts here and at the other forums with interest. Correct me if I'm wrong but the gist of your argument in favor of the circumference filter is as follows:

*Ultimately, any filter will only filter as fine of a particle as it's most restrictive layer. Traditional filters use progressively finer filter media but ultimately just filter as much as the finest layer. The use of progressively finer media is to prevent clogging. A circumference filter puts the finest media as it's first layer rather than it's last layer. In a traditional in line filter, this would lead to early clogging, but in a circumference filter, since it has vastly more initial surface area, this doesn't happen.

*A circumference filter has less media, less resistance to flow. Instead of 6 inches of progressively finer media, it just uses one inch of fine media. It still filters the same amount of particles on the fine outer layer as a progressive filter, but with only an inch or two of media resisting the flow of water.

*It has low maintenance. With a higher initial surface area it will take a lot longer for the filter to ever clog and slow down because of all the extra surface area the water has to enter. One area may clog, but other areas are open.

In this design, since pretty much all the "filtering" is done by the fine outer layer, the internal coarser sponge is really just bio-media, it isn't there to remove particles.

About right?


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## smackpixi

My conclusion is that a circumference filter design is superior for crud removal. It has the same ultimate fine layer as a traditional filter, but more of it, and more flow. More water through the same fine layer, more crud removal. However, a traditional filter has more total filter media contact and thus more bio media availability.

If your goal is crud removal, circumference filter. If your goal is converting crud to plant nutrients, traditional filter.

Correct me if I'm wrong.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Correct except circumference filtration also provides a superior biological filtration environment becasue although the surface area allows maximum water throughput like a super wide river, water current-speed is much much lower and slower at the filter surface and core and the even distribution of surface area in this slow even environment is much more conducive to biological growth. In fact between the top surface of the circumference batting and the canister wall with enough space like 2 inches, you could fill that area with micro bio-balls or mini-rings and even get better bio. But I think it would be overkill. But in the basic MOD this is why both the FX5 and any circumference filter can go months without nitrate spikes like in sumps becasue the accumulation of debris in a circumference filter is evenly distributed over a much larger area conducive to beneficial bacteria growth. 

*UPDATE:*
Well I sent 2 emails to the vendor “Topdogsellers” about the O-ring problem causing cracking problems with the valves and lid ports and how my low cost solution can prevent and save them from having to send out new lids whenever the defective O-rings cause cracks complete with photos, but so far no response. So I gave positive feedback to for my 1st CFS500 purchase before I found out about this problem but my the 2nd purchase only gave neutral feedback since they want to ignore the problem.

After 3 weeks of filtering a new 60 clean tank with only a few small feeder fish decided to pull the filter out and see if its working. Just like the FX5 this filter is strong enough to pump itself ¾ empty by disconnecting the inflow hose and turning on the pump the water pumps back to tank and empties the canister ¾ for easy dry and light weight maintenance. Since the MOD required both white & black sponges to be glued together like 1 sponge, the entire sponge and batting comes out intact for inspection and replacement. Otherwise if you did not follow that MOD step you have to dismantle the entire media. 

As you can see the entire batting surface has turned off color because dirt is being pulled in from all sides except for the clean white ring at the bottom where I did not trim the tight fitting sponge. Also you can see dirt accumulation in the lower middle only because suction is strongest there and there is not that much dirt in a new cycling tank. So it is apparent that this media has a long way still to go probably 4 to 6 months before the batting is used up and needs changing but I will do another photo report in 3 months. But so far its working just like a circumference filter should polishing the water but with such a huger surface area allowing maximum water throughput with low-slow current inside the filter maximum biological inhabitation. The best of mechanical and biological filtration and ease of use to boot.


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## CWO4GUNNER

OK moving right along you already seen how easy it was for me to pull out the entire media block in one piece because the top and bottom sponge were glued together. Now lets suppose its time for filter cleaning months down the road and compared to your other high maintenance basket and sump filters your wondering how long and how wet the job will be. Well with my MOD all you have to do is (1) pump out the filter in place, (2) Pull out the sponge block out and throw away the Poly batting wrap, (3) squeeze rinse the sponge block in treated water and (4) wrap a new pre-cut Poly batting around the sponge block and reinsert the filter-block into the canister. Now you done and ready to restart the filter which is able to self prime using the 1/3 remaining water, all of about 5 minutes once every 4-6 months. Now isn’t that smarter then cleaning filters on top of water changes every week. 

Of course the main part is the filter wrap so here are a few detailed photos of my 2nd CFS500 being wrapped for use on my 100 Oscar tank.

*BELOW THE TRIMMED FILTER BLOCK WRAP*


*BELOW ENOUGH POLY-BATTING IS USED TO TUCK IN BOTTOM AND TOP*


*BELOW THE CENTER STRAINER SECURES THE TOP-TUCK AND IS TOPPED OFF WITH A PRECAUTIONARY POLY-BATTING PATCH. *



*TOPPED OFF WITH THE BLUE PAD PROVIDED CUT TO DEFUSE AND ALLOW WATER ENTRY AND NEEDED TO TAKE UP ROOM BETWEEN THE LID AND FILTER BLOCK.*


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## Wasserpest

Gunner, thanks again for your excellent advise and photography!

I just received the filter, and agree that one should not try to use the connectors with the original O-rings. I used the #17 size from HD and although it seems a tad easy to turn, hopefully no leaks will develop.

I also measured the throughput, and the power consumption. It clocks in at 29 Watts, and does ~220 gal/hour with sparkling clean media.

So here is my assessment, comparing it to the XP3 that I planned to replace:

Positives:
- Price (~half of XP3)
- Runs nearly silent

Negatives:
- Not as much flow as XP3 (250 gal/hr) consuming ~same energy (26W)
- Green tubing is a joke

The CFS-500 has about the same media capacity as an XP3. I was positively surprised by the black and white sponges, someone else had reported that there was no black sponge included anymore. As pointed out by Gunner, cutting some grooves on the side of the white sponge could be advantageous to make better use of the black sponge. Otherwise the white sponge will get clogged with debris while the black one remains clean.

I was hoping this filter could double as a CO2 reactor as well. However, gas accumulates in the top part of the canister and the in-rushing water will make it noisy. Perhaps it could be rigged with a very thin airline connected to the internal strainer to suck air/CO2 out of the housing.

(Just to clarify... I measured the flow rate with a flow meter that reduced the diameter to 5/8". So the unrestricted flow could be a bit higher).


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## CWO4GUNNER

Wasserpest said:


> - Green tubing is a joke
> 
> As pointed out by Gunner, cutting some grooves on the side of the white sponge could be advantageous to make better use of the black sponge. Otherwise the white sponge will get clogged with debris while the black one remains clean.
> 
> Perhaps it could be rigged with a very thin airline connected to the internal strainer to suck air/CO2 out of the housing.


I agree that the green clear tubing is a bit on the stiff side but like the Magnum 350 smooth hoses can be heated up with hot tap water and custom fit and shaped, what is great about about them is their large inside diameter almost 1 full inch and being smooth bore prevents restrictions and clogging like on the smaller 1/2" ribbed fluval 404/405 hoses. Unfortunatly the manufacture is starting to send out these canisters with the same 5/8 inch ribbed hoses which are considerably lighter and easier to shape cold but have a much smaller inside diameter and are even more difficult to squeeze on the end of the orange valve and lid ports being so necked down. I wont be using those ribbed hoses becasue I don't like cleaning clogged hoses every few months. instead I will be using the black 3/4" garden hose I use on my sumps about $0.30 per foot.

Originally I had only cut groves in the sponge becasue I was being cautious to make sure the sponge had support but after I found out the both sponge could and should be trimmed 360 degrees to allow 1" of spacing all the way around the circumference of the sponges and the walls of the canister with the exception of the base of the black sponge 2 inches should be left untrimmed for sealing to prevent bypass. By comparison this modification of increased surface area is what makes this filter really shine and worth buying becasue it allows it to be covered with polishing media increasing efficiency and effectiveness without ever clogging, otherwise its just another inline weak filter. This one modification by itself makes the CFS500 a far more effective filter then any inline stacked basket canister filter on the marked today because none of them have even 1/4th the fine filtration surface area as this filter, and regardless of all the marketing jargon poo-poo about canister volume bio-bulk and volume bio-mass. True outstanding filtration and endurance for both water and air filtration and purification are still based on 3 main industrial application rules surface-area, surface-are, surface area NOT MEDIA VOLUME which is marketing poo-poo. 

I cant say much about CO2 injected gas other then any gas trapped in the lid like during initial prime can be removed simply by shutting the canister on and off a couple of times and the canisters powerful head-pressure pump will self purge all gas, just like it will self purge all water for cleaning by disconnecting the inflow hose. No other in-line basket canister nor circumference canister for the home market has the head pressure power to do this except the FX5.


----------



## Wasserpest

I am talking about the "new" ribbed hoses. Very thin stuff, I'd be afraid they split with age, rather sooner than later. No problems pushing them onto the orange valves, although right there I was afraid they would split already.

Good points on the surface area and burping.


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

Wasserpest said:


> I am talking about the "new" ribbed hoses. Very thin stuff, I'd be afraid they split with age, rather sooner than later. No problems pushing them onto the orange valves, although right there I was afraid they would split already.
> 
> Good points on the surface area and burping.


OH! So you got one of the new thin-ribbed hoses also. To be fair if they are large enough in inside diameter say at least 3/4 inch they seem to do fine as I have 2 that came with my Tom Rapids PS4 sump, one for overflow box drainage 1 inch inside diameter and one for the pump 3/4 inch inside diameter and they have been running for a year without cleaning, clogging or splitting. It is the smaller 5/8 or 1/2 inch ribbed hoses like on the Fluval 405 series that always clog after a few months and agonizingly must be run through with a pipe brush and string.

When I'm wrong about something I have to admit it so let me make correction to my privious statement about the green ribbed replacement hose, it is NOT and I repeat NOT smaller then 3/4 inch as I eyeballed, and in fact placing a measuring tape to the inside diameter it is actually 13/16 inch which is actually 1/16 larger then 3/4 inch. That is what happens sometimes when you trust your eye rather then taking precise measurements. So I will be using the new green ribbed hose with confidence after all. Now if the manufacture can just install the right O-rings and trim 2 inches off the sponge at the factory rapped in blue bond padding for 360 degree filtration, they would have lightning in a bottle.


----------



## CRAIG1591

For those of you comparing this to the FX5 here's a few comparision pics I took today when I moved the CFS500 from my 180g to my 240g:

PS. Sorry about the quality of the photo's I'm a forensic accountant not a photographer.


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## CWO4GUNNER

I wish you would have included photos of how you did not have to change out hoses but simple use the same valve couplings on either canister interchangeably since the port couplings, valves and their O-rings are identical. :wink:


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## bklyndrvr

I'm thinking of going to this filter for a 50 gallon tank, would it be better to swap them out for something else besides the new hoses that are coming with the filter now?


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## CWO4GUNNER

Im going to use new ribbed hoses I just received on my 2nd CFS purchase because I have the same size ribbed hose on my Toms PS4 sump running now for almost 2 years nonstop. I was mistaken when I thought they had a much smaller inside diameter but in fact they are almost 1 full inch. The fact that they are way lighter and more flexible makes things easier as well. If the hoses had been smaller 1/2-5/8 like I first thought there would have been clogging issues like with the Fluval 405 series that use a small 1/2 inch diameter ribbed hose that must be cleaned out or the motor can be blocked and over heat.


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

Finally a simple easy change and powerful circumference filter that is also scalable. But the mods are crucial because without the added surface area from stock configuration of 75 SI to its moded config of 300 SI its just another inline filter. The 2nd reason why its scalable is the ability to place a more powerful pump on the canister. Lets say you want more GPH, well because of the large 300 SI surface area, all you would have to do is use the existing bulkhead plumbing on the canister and install a 1200 GPH pump which would easily be absorbed and utilized by the 300 SI without over tasking the filter which means this seemingly huge filter in its small package could filter a 200 gallon tank no problem. That is what I call scalability.

*My future CFS 1200 MOD*.* The effective size and performance would be on par with the Ocean Clear 1200 costing $300 more.*


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## CWO4GUNNER

The dry pump outside the canister Im referring to is actually called an inline pump that is designed to operate outside the water and does not have to be physically submerged to remain cool quiet. Important because by being able to remove the internal pump you gain more room, GPH and only have to cut the sponge around 1 PVC pipe and strainer. The biggest hurtle is already completed in the fact that the canister body already comes with its own 1" watertight bullhead fitting. My drawing is just a concept, as most who do DIY sump or pond filtration are able to work out the specific details as to which size PVC pipes, elbows, strainers, or added gate valves to use. However If I ever do this next MOD, which will not be for a while, I will be posting a detailed DIY as I always have and will be using an inline pump similar to this one called "The Quiet One" specifically designed for used outside of water and still run cool and quietly at very high GPH.
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.co...fm?pcatid=9849


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## Wasserpest

You are very resourceful. Hard to keep up with all the mods! 

The FX-5 employs an external pump as well, right? This mod would then make it an even closer copy of its big bro'.

My experience with "QuietOne" pumps has been mixed. While they are not loud, they do vibrate, which can lead to noise issues in an application like you describe here. I built a DIY canister filter once with a QO 1200 and dropped the project mostly due to the racket that little pump made.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Well Its just something to know becasue people ask what happens when the CFS500 pump wears out in few years. My point is that both the FX5 and CFS500 have this capability to use an inline pump just like an Ocean Clear canister. But to answer your question yes both are canisters capable of using inline pumps and therefore both have much greater potential. For now I dont have a need. My two modified CFS500's will be placed on my twin 80 tanks as primary filters which will free up 2 FX5's to go on my new CL 160 & 142 tanks. So you see those two CFS500's saved me the cost of 2 more FX5's ($300). So unless I get a larger tank 300+ or build a pond I wont need another large capacity filter. As for my 2 Sunsun's I have decided to give one to my sister and keep one in storage as a spare emergency canister.


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## vanderhoeven

I was happy to receive my CFS500 in the mail yesterday. Mine still came with the big green hoses as well as the bio-balls. Even though I’d seen the dimensions of this canister listed, I was surprised by how big this thing actually was when I unboxed it. It is a beast. 

Per CWO4GUNNER’s advice earlier in this thread, I had already purchased replacement O-rings anticipating my canister’s arrival. I didn’t even attempt to attach the orange coupling valves until I’d replaced those. I must say that with the recommended O-rings, the coupling valves slid right on. I never felt the need to apply any extreme pressure and I think I’ve eliminated the breakage risk by having swapped these out. I’m grateful to have received that advice. 

I also decided to use screw-on metal hose clamps instead of the plastic ones I’d seen mentioned by earlier buyers and had purchased those in anticipation as well. As it turns out, my package arrived with the metal clamps so I guess I have a few extras now. The metal hose clamps really secured the hose attachments very well. I feel much better about using these than the pinchy-plastic type but that’s just my personal preference. 

With the new O-rings and metal hose clamps, everything went together very easily and all connections felt very secure. The canister fired right up and began filtering immediately. That thing really pumps through some flow. 

I must say that I’m impressed with my perceived build-quality. This exceeded my expectations. The canister has been running for a little over 14 hours now with zero leakage. Also, it is running so silently that I keep looking at the out-flow into my aquarium to make sure it is still going. It is much more silent than the Eheim 2227 I have on the same aquarium. 

Thanks to all the great advice and information regarding this canister on this forum I’m very happy and if I need another canister I’ll probably spring for another one of these. This is an amazing bargain.


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## Wasserpest

One question that comes to mind is where to get spare impellers, foam inserts, and parts in general. Hopefully as these filters become more common, major distributors will offer them as well, and spare parts along with them.

I have done several different mods to my CFS500, but I am going to start a fresh thread since this one is already bursting at the seams.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Sometimes I wish people would use the stock O-rings first, so they can comment on the difference and attest to how they can see why one would brake the nozzles trying to get the valves mounted on and off with the defective O-rings. But Im sure with the chnages they are making to the hoses and clamps that they will eventually change the O-rings as well to the correct size, and then someone who gets them will comment that I was wrong lol.

Question for vanderhoeven, when you say you revived bio-balls, does that mean you did not receive 2 sponges black and white taking up most of the canister space?


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## vanderhoeven

I had no desire to test my luck with their O-rings. I'm happy to learn from someone else's experiences when I can. The stock O-rings looked pretty fat compared to the ones you recommended

I got the blue pad, the white sponge and the balls.


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

vanderhoeven said:


> I had no desire to test my luck with their O-rings. I'm happy to learn from someone else's experiences when I can. The stock O-rings looked pretty fat compared to the ones you recommended
> 
> I got the blue pad, the white sponge and the balls.


Wow so no way to trim top sponge for circumference filtration with poly batting rap. I guess its one of the early configurations becasue I think I saw them advertised that was a year ago.


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## CWO4GUNNER

So I can avoid buying the bio-ball model which seller did you buy it from on eBay, or did you buy last years model used?


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## CWO4GUNNER

Ok so you must have bought it used and the 2nd sponge around the pump housing was removed and replaced with bio-balls which means there is no way to prevent bypass around the pump housing if you decide to trim the top sponge for better 360 filtration. Very little benefit with Bio balls other then a spacer becasue the tank itself and all its content is responsible for about 90% of all bio filtration. Bio-filtering being much more of a retail marketing tool on an cycled tank then anything else.

If you ever decide to make a bottom sponge all you need to is remove the bullhead plug and then the motor housing. Then use the housing to trace out and cut a sealing section of sponge that snugly fits the motor/impeller housing so that it will be possible to have 360 sponge exposure for the 300 SI surface area filtration. Otherwise it remains at about 80 SI with much less potential filtration capacity and diminished bypass at the pump housing.


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## mott

I dunno if I totally buy the whole "tank itself is 90% bio" thing, Anybody wanna do a test and remove all the media in the Canister and replace it with just floss? Then do a parameter test 24 hours later?


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## vanderhoeven

It was purchased new via Ebay from a seller called aquadeal. $55.99 shipped. 

I'm actually going to be using the bio-balls space for activated carbon. I'm not concerned with biological filtration on this cannister. My Eheim wet/dry running on the same aquaruim will be sufficient for that. 

I'm running this filter along with the Eheim on a 55 gallon tank that is going to be used for Mbuna once fully cycled. I'm in the end-stages of fishless cycling and added this cannister to assist with mechanical filtration as this will be an overstocked tank.


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## CWO4GUNNER

mott said:


> I dunno if I totally buy the whole "tank itself is 90% bio" thing, Anybody wanna do a test and remove all the media in the Canister and replace it with just floss? Then do a parameter test 24 hours later?


No need, I have already done it 3 times for cycling my 244, my 210, and my 120. I admit that the smaller the cycled donor tank in proportion to the un-cycled recipient tank the greater the un-cycled recipient tank suffers a spike since un-cycled recipient tank has so little top work with. Conversely I had a cycled donor tank never suffered and significant change by replacing its filter with a new unicycle one.

Ill be removing two cycled FX5 filters from my twin 80 tanks to give to my 142 & 160 tanks soon and I expect absolutly no significant changes in my twin 80 tanks with respect to toxic levels (no spikes) becaue 90% of the nitrifying bacteria exist. The donor tank with the cycled canister on the other hand will suffer ammonia and nitrite spikes for about a week between 1 and 3 PPM.


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## FSM

Are they planted tanks?


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## CWO4GUNNER

No not in the aquatic sense, although my established twin 80's do have huge 2 pounds of aquaponic Pothos growing out of them. Let me clarify as I got things mix up in my last post. I never worry about donating a canister filter from an established tank becasue the established tank itself is loaded with 90% of its nutrifying bacteria. I do worry about a new uncycled tank even-though it is seeded with and established canister filter becasue even though the established canister will quicken a new tanks cycling, its still not enough to support fish without frequent water changes, becasue the established filter only represents about 10% of what the tank needs in nitrifying bacteria.


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## mott

CWO4GUNNER said:


> No need, I have already done it 3 times for cycling my 244, my 210, and my 120. I admit that the smaller the cycled donor tank in proportion to the un-cycled recipient tank the greater the un-cycled recipient tank suffers a spike since un-cycled recipient tank has so little top work with. Conversely I had a cycled donor tank never suffered and significant change by replacing its filter with a new unicycle one.
> 
> Ill be removing two cycled FX5 filters from my twin 80 tanks to give to my 142 & 160 tanks soon and I expect absolutly no significant changes in my twin 80 tanks with respect to toxic levels (no spikes) becaue 90% of the nitrifying bacteria exist. The donor tank with the cycled canister on the other hand will suffer ammonia and nitrite spikes for about a week between 1 and 3 PPM.


So the two 80's are getting brand new canisters and you expect no spikes?
Could you test parameters and post your findings? I would be interested.


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## CWO4GUNNER

I suppose I could post the results again. Iv proved and posted this years ago it in the past when I was a Fishlorian. But to be honest if you run a clean tank don’t over stock, overfeed this idea is really fundamental. Just 3 moths ago when I was preoccupied with family problems I for got to turn back on the FX5 on my 125 tank and when I realized it had been off for a week I decided not to turn it on but clean it completely out, result no spike. 
People that have spikes from media replacement are just overstocked. technically you don’t even need a filter for Bio only mechanical. When was the last time you’ve seen a huge man made Bio filter at the headwaters of a river or lake. While allot of advertisement promotes useful products allot of it now and historically is propaganda bent of sales sales sales.


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## mott

You really can't compare natural waterways to a closed system. Imo a balanced system, bio and mechanical is key, a lot of factors come into play ie stocking, overfeeding just as you said. Everyones tank is not the same, you can say the tank iteslf is 90% bio but not in everyones case. Until it's proven otherwise Ill keep using stinterd glass as bio just in case.

Back to the thread.
I love the mods keep em commin!

Happy bday JC!
Sent from my Blackberry


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## smackpixi

I purchased mine from "topdogsellers" on e-bay about two weeks ago. Came with the blue, white and black sponges and the thick green tubes. If you're wanting to do Gunner's mod, I recommend that seller. Shipped quick. 

I modded it so the pump intakes from the very bottom of the bucket rather than the center as is stock. Didn't use the blue or black sponges. Inverted the white sponge and stuffed some dollar store shower "poofs" in the hole. Filled the bottom with a wide assortment of bio-media and cut up dollar store sponges. 

Filter moves A LOT of water. Is great. Highly recommend if you're willing to mod in some way. The stock configuration is kinda stupid. It's not what I would call "silent" as others have said. About as loud as a Rena XP2 or 3. I replaced the stock o-rings on the disconnects as Gunner recommends (go to Lowes not Home Depot) but even with the stock, I don't think the breakage problem is due to the o-rings. The disconnects seemed to come off just fine with stock. My guess on the breakage problem would be due to the shutoffs which are VERY stiff and if you're forcing them you would be applying a lot of sideways pressure on the intake/outakes and result in breakage if you're not holding them with one hand and turning the valve with the other. I tried a wide variety of lubricants on the shutoffs, and none seemed to improve the situation much.

IMHO the greatest thing about it is that the pump is easily replaceable. It's a cheapo pump so while it's working great now, will it last? Maybe, maybe not, but if it doesn't, or if you want more (or less) water going through the filter, you can easily swap out the stock pump for one of your own choosing. The bottom has little plastic nodes holding the pump in place, nice i guess, but would prefer they not be there (have to cut out if replacing the pump) and they likely result in noise with the pump vibrating against them (i wedged in some plastic bits for a snugger fit). I'd rather the pump just be suction cupped to the bottom.


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## CWO4GUNNER

smackpixi said:


> The bottom has little plastic nodes holding the pump in place, nice i guess, but would prefer they not be there (have to cut out if replacing the pump) and they likely result in noise with the pump vibrating against them (i wedged in some plastic bits for a snugger fit). I'd rather the pump just be suction cupped to the bottom.


Very good point I diden't think of, that the stock pump could also be replaced with a another more powerful submersible inside the canister. I believe the nodes or high spots on the bottom of the canister you mention are there originally to hold the sponge off the bottom for water flow from bottom. However like you say they can be removed and are no longer needed with my 360 circumference MOD. In fact I have a RIO 1900 Pond pump I may try.


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## shane3fan

those of you that have one of these----is it too much filter for a 40B? Thinking of using it as a filter for two 40Bs hooked together with a fish bridge and a Switching Current Water Director (SCWD) like is outlined in a thread on this forum. It would filter both tanks but only output into one tank at a time-switching several times a minute. Still undecided on what Im going to do for sure-Im just afraid that it would be too much flow.


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## CWO4GUNNER

The filter should be fine, its the fish bridge Id worry about for obvious reasons. If anything because a fish bridge is so large in volume velocity or current through the bridge will creep and may not have enough flow to clear bubbles which may accumulate eventually blocking the flow of water and stop siphon. This in turn causing a flood one tanks entire 20 gallon water volume onto the floor.


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## winthrop

So i just spent 45 minutes reading about this pump and ive come to the conclusion that this filter is a champion (with the right mods). Im a scrub getting into the whole aquatics but i definitely have the passion to want to kick things up a notch. 

Im interested in getting a 55gal tank and populating it with my existing (2) figure eight freshwater blowfish and (2) angelfish. I was told i would have issues with the fish picking on each other but ive had them for a few months now and they have gotten long just fine. But as the fish are getting bigger its quite obvious that they are going to need more room.

So my question is, what mods would anyone recommended for my situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!


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## FSM

It's ridiculously difficult to get the red flow valves attached. The O rings are too large, so I'll have to replace them.


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## smackpixi

winthrop...there are two popular mods to use, take your pick. 

First is the traditional, hook up plumbing to the pump intake so it draws from the bottom of the bucket. Fill the bucket with whatever you want, it's an inverted eheim classic basically.

Second is Gunner's circumference filter mod. It makes something like a Magnum 350 only with more flow. 

Option A is more for biofiltering, assuming you use the bucket space for bio-media, i suppose you could fill it with floss. Option B is more for filtering filtering.

IMHO Option A is the way to go for the most filtering. The primary advantage of Option B, from my reading, is that it will accomplish a similar micron size filtering but with no reduction in flow or need to clean over several months. Option A will have more bio-filtering regardless of what Gunner says, is it necessary? You decide.

Want to open the filter once a month, Option A. Want to leave it for 3-4 months. Option B. You have a pretty low bio-load in your tank. I'd go for Gunner's mod and just let it be forever untill finally you notice a reduction in flow. Could be 6+ months.

Though, I did have a freshwater puffer, a half inch deal...and he ate pretty much his own size in food a day...i wonder what a Figure 8 can eat...maybe that is a heavy bio load...

Either way will be pretty good.


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## FSM

Also, the included hose clamps are too big too actually function, so I replaced them. It seems to run very quietly though.

edit - included O rings don't stay in place, which keeps the hoses from sealing onto the barbs. Removed them, and it doesn't drip any more.


----------



## A Hill

over_stocked said:


> I am almost infamous for my review of the SunSun HW-302. I think SunSun owes me some serious bank for the number of filters sold because I took the plunge on their filter. It was a huge "risk" some would say, but I have loved every second of it.


I just want to say I agree with you :hihi: and sure hope you are  Maybe US rep of random Ebay aquarium products?

-Andrew


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## winthrop

Thanks for the tips guys. Im really looking forward to upgrading my tank.
Although that is kind of taking a backseat to the car sub woofer project i got goin on. (pun intended)

My figure eight puffer fish started out at half an inch but they are getting slightly bigger and a touch more territorial. they are starting to pick at the angel fish and its quite franks that they need their own personal space.

On a side note, has anyone built their own stand for their tank?


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## Burks

Their other one, which is larger and includes a 9w UV for a little under double the price, looks interesting as well!

AquaTraders has both of them, for free shipping.


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## CWO4GUNNER

One thing to consider is that for the price increase of $30 or 50%, the CFs700 appears to have only have 1/3 or 30% more potential surface area if modified but 0% increase in surface area if not modified. You will also notice that the CFS700 has 2 inch of lost volume becasue it site on 2 inch feet giving the appearance of being taller then it is compared to the CFS500 which sits flat on the bottom along with its media. You will also notice that the CFS is a composit body with top and bottom made of one type material and the center made of an acrylic which is probubly much thinner and probably more prone to leaking or even cracking, and which also means that there is probubly NO large bulkhead fitting to allow scale up to a larger pump later like on the CFS500. In addition becasue it is much taller (24 inches with valves) there is the issue of fitting inside or under any cabinet. Lastly I would not be surprised if the differences in the CFS 700 mentioned were one only differences, and the motor and all hardware were identical to the CFS 500. 

The only real improvement I see is that you can see the dirt collecting in the filter media which may or may-not be a desired feature depending upon your perspective.. Sort of reminds me the of differences between the Sunsun 302 and 304 where the increased cost don't support the performance. Of course this is just a two dimensional observation and cannot say for sure until someone buys and physically test the CFS700 in comparison to the CFS500, something I wont do becasue I believe Im right, so please prove me wrong.


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## Wasserpest

I wanted to correct some of the statements I made earlier.

I compared the filter to my XP3's, and I had it set up with the same hose diameter. This lead to reduced flow and wattage. I have now changed the hoses to 1" diameter, which increased the flow quite a bit (noticeably more than XP3), as well as the wattage increased a bit to 32-33W.

Since my flow meter has a smaller diameter I can't really use it to measure the throughput of a filter with larger hoses, and I agree that the higher flow numbers mentioned by Gunner etc are correct.

Regarding the wattage - when the hose is pinched shut, it drops to 21W. With a bit of electronics, one could probably whip up a little display (amp meter) that shows how clogged the filter is.


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## thenewguy

man, the price on this thing is going to jump soon i bet. better buy another one.


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## Soggy_Pancakes

I've been looking at getting this filter for a few days now and the only thing that is holding me back is the fittings that break. Is the part of the fitting that breaks something that could be reinforced with some epoxy? If it's one of the places on the fitting that is indented then I would think you could just fill it with some 2 part epoxy and never worry about breaking that part again.


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## reybie

Wasserpest said:


> Regarding the wattage - when the hose is pinched shut, it drops to 21W. With a bit of electronics, one could probably whip up a little display (amp meter) that shows how clogged the filter is.


I wonder if this is the same technique that the high-end Eheims use to detect when it's time to service the filter?


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## Wasserpest

Soggy_Pancakes said:


> I've been looking at getting this filter for a few days now and the only thing that is holding me back is the fittings that break. Is the part of the fitting that breaks something that could be reinforced with some epoxy? If it's one of the places on the fitting that is indented then I would think you could just fill it with some 2 part epoxy and never worry about breaking that part again.


IMO it's user error as much as design flaws that would break the fitting. Two issues: O-rings that are too large, which leads to a lot of force required to pull off the connector from the fitting. If you don't pull straight up, while gently turning/wiggling the connector, it would put a lot of stress on the fitting.

Second issue, the shutoff valves. They are difficult to turn as well, and if you don't support the connector while turning the shutoff I can imagine the force breaking the fitting as well.

Both issues are easy to circumvent. Thinner O-rings, and supporting the assembly when turning the valves will prevent things from breaking.


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## Burks

I think the major draw of the 700 over the 500 is simply the fact it has a UV sterilizer already there. No need to buy a separate part.


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## Soggy_Pancakes

Wasserpest said:


> IMO it's user error as much as design flaws that would break the fitting. Two issues: O-rings that are too large, which leads to a lot of force required to pull off the connector from the fitting. If you don't pull straight up, while gently turning/wiggling the connector, it would put a lot of stress on the fitting.
> 
> Second issue, the shutoff valves. They are difficult to turn as well, and if you don't support the connector while turning the shutoff I can imagine the force breaking the fitting as well.
> 
> Both issues are easy to circumvent. Thinner O-rings, and supporting the assembly when turning the valves will prevent things from breaking.


Thanks for the reply. I realize that the fittings break because people were rough with them and that it can be avoided with careful handling. Never the less if it can be reinforced I think it's a worthy investment as this filter could empty my entire tank in 6 minuets if the output fitting were to break.


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## JamesHockey

so whats the Id of the hoses onn the 500?


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## Wasserpest

The thin ribbed hose has a diameter of 1 in. It's so thin that it is roughly the same inside and out. :wink:


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## JamesHockey

thanks was thinking about diy acrylic lily pipes


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## aaronbrown

would three of these work good for a custom 250 gallon tank


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## Wasserpest

I would think so... I have one of them on my (plumbed through the bottom) 250g along with a Unimax 700 (which has two outlets). Three should be plenty, even two might work especially if you plan on fish that prefer stiller waters (like labyrinth fish/discus/whatnot).


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## aaronbrown

well for fish i was thinking discus and angelfish with maybe a smaller schooling fish


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## CWO4GUNNER

I think 2 would be plenty for a 250 tank if modified for 300 SI 360 degree circumference filtration. I would however include a timed power head to insure good circulation and no stagnant spots on the bottom.


----------



## FlyingGiraffes

Hmmmm... would you recommend this or the Sunsun you reviewed? I'm deciding between the GLA 12 gallon long or ADA 8.6 gallon long (planted). I'm thinking the Odyssea is way over kill.


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## OverStocked

They would both be far to high flow for such small tanks.


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## FlyingGiraffes

What would you recommend? Something around the same price point would be great.


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## kevmo911

Hmmm ...has anybody checked to see if pvc would slide either inside or outside of the outlets to strengthen them? There are methoother methods, but I wonder what the easiest solution is. Based on comments in this thread, it seems like they are by far the biggest weak point in the setup.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Personally I just don't like the use of ridged PVC over flexible hose. The new corrugated hose have worked fine but are very thin and prone to cat pawing. I made the mistake of playing with my cat who was interested in the corrugated hose during assembly, and one paw swipe impaled it and it leaked and I had to use garden hose. So far though I haven't touched the two CFS500's I have modified and set-up which have been running non-stop for 3 months now and with my high surface area modification don't intend to clean them until after May. Let me add once more that if it were not for my modifications of the valve O-rings and increasing the filter surface area by 10X allowing the use of polishing media (Poly-batting) without clogging, this filter would not be worth buying IMO and you'd be far better off buying the Sunsun 302. 

My mods make the CFS500 a completely different filter, about as different as a stock and formula race car.


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## joonho

Regarding flow control on the CFS 500, would it be harmful to the filter pump by using the red outflow valve to reduce the flow?


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## nalu86

One of my outlets broke...
Just ordered a new lid and I'm going to try to modify the outlets with pvc tubing.
For now filter is running with a hose clamp aroud the tubing and the broken outlet.
Those outlets are way to thin... Hopefully odyssea will change this in there next generation filters.


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## Wasserpest

Were you using the original O-rings? Did it break while trying to remove the connector?


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## nalu86

Wasserpest said:


> Were you using the original O-rings? Did it break while trying to remove the connector?


yes was using original O-rings. It broke while removing probably.
I broke my 55g down and was setting up my new 75g in between i took of the connectors for several times, and when i wanted to install the filter and i plugged it in, it was leaking, didn't first know what was going on and unplugged the connectors to see what was happening and could not see a thing. I cleaned the connectors and tried it again, still leaking. and then I just saw the little cut in the outlet, cracked it off and connected the howe to it with a hose clamp, Problem solved.


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## CWO4GUNNER

As difficult as the stock o-rings make manipulating difficult its actually the forcing of the O-ring which is locked into its grove and cannot expand to get out of its own way, so the O-ring actually cuts into the plastic over time. Like folding a crease into a piece of paper over and over the bad O-rings does its work until finally the required heavy handling makes the crease brake cleanly just like the paper

Furthermore its has nothing whatsoever to do with the thickness of the plastic as I made careful comparison with the FX5 which has the exact same identical port thickness and the exact same ports and valves, only the O-rings are different that are the correct size on the FX5 but not on the CFS500. So you see you could have prevented the brake if you had decided to make the mode, it was in no way the plastic thickness.:icon_roll


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## CWO4GUNNER

*Preventing pressure point cracks in the CFS500 and FX5 canister lid*

The FX5 and CFS500 both use compression of the lid O-rings against the canister body to seal out water using 3/8” nuts and bolts. While the bolts are secured to the canister body by a bolt bushing so that the load is well distributed without pressure points, the 3/8” metal nuts have no bushing or cushion to prevent lid cracks. Lid cracks can occur because the 40 to 60 INCH pounds placed on the 3/8” nuts against the plastic lids is greatly multiplied against the plastic in only 3/8 inch area multiplying the force against the plastic by 2.6 times or 120 to 180 pounds of force per lid nut which can over time cause stress cracks in the plastic. 

I found that placing a 1” washer and pad (my case neoprene), disperses the load over the lid and cushions and hard points between the plastic lid and metal nut. In addition I no longer recommend Vaseline as a lubricant because of its inability to keep from dissolving into water and low surface tension to repel water and remain in place. Instead I have found plumber’s beeswax which is non toxic even more so the Vaseline, has a very high surface tension making it waterproof so it never washes away, and yet soft enough to act as a great lubricant and sealer that help the O-ring hold back water. 

Below the photos show where I place a coat of beeswax on the o-rings for better lubrication, sealing, and retention, used cushions to protect against hard point compression by a factor of 2.6 times. The only further recommendation is that you can use any type of cushion you want (not just neoprene) like wood shims or thin rubber glove material even thick freezer bag plastic, as long as there is something to ease pressure points between the metal washer and plastic lid. This will add life to both your lid and canister housing.


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## waters10

Hey guys

I just ordered one of these from topdogsellers.

While I wait for deliver, I want to build a reactor to go with it. But I have some questions regarding that.

What hoses are coming with the filter nowadays? If it's the new, thin corrugated hoses, will that work with a 1" barb adapter? Should I get replacement hoses in advance?

I'm thinking about building my reactor with a 5/8 barb at the output so I can hook up a Hydor inline heater later on. Any idea how much would this impact the flow?

I'll be getting the smaller o-rings for sure and I'm considering one of the many mods available for this filter.

Thanks!


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## FSM

I think you will need to replace the tubing, as the flimsy green corrugated hose will not seal properly if cut; only the smooth end portion will be suitable, but then you have several wasted feet of length.


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## waters10

FSM said:


> I think you will need to replace the tubing, as the flimsy green corrugated hose will not seal properly if cut; only the smooth end portion will be suitable, but then you have several wasted feet of length.


Ah ok. So that means new filters are coming with that type of hose?

And regarding the inline heater, I'm almost decided to build a reactor/inline heater combo, using my Ebo Jager heater. I'll keep 1" barbs to minimize flow loss.


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## bklyndrvr

I just bit the bullet and bought the cfs500. LIke waters10 above, what should I dot while I wait for it to show up? I think I'm going to buy new hoses, so where should I get them? I read about getting from HD or Lowes, but people are mentioning that those sold aren't good, being too hard. Where is everyone else getting their replacement hoses from? There's a LFS around me that sells eheim hoses by the bulk. Should I get those?

I also already bought the new o-rings so I'm good there, how important is buying the wax ring?


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## Wasserpest

Regarding the hoses, not sure if this is still an option, but HD used to sell really heavy duty 1" hoses for pond filters. They are also very flexible. On the downside, somewhat pricey (compared to regular vinyl tubing) and they need to be clamped down relatively hard to prevent leaks.

Here you can see a small piece of them used: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-i-shrunk-fx-modding-oddysea.html#post1235512

This was just an experimental setup, now I am using that hose for the entire connection between filter and (bottom-plumbed) aquarium.

Whichever hoses you use, make sure they have the correct diameter (1").

Regarding the wax, while not a bad idea, I don't think it is that necessary. After you ran that filter for a few years, massage the O-rings with some silicone lube, that should be all that's necessary. Gunner posted some very good info earlier on how to screw down the lid to prevent leaks (evenly, not hard). Just reading this entire thread will prepare you well for this filter.


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## bklyndrvr

I've been reading through this thread for the last couple of months. I will do the circumference mod as stated somewhere in this thread, and definitely replace the o-rings. I might have some of that playground padding that are for kids rooms, to sacrifice and cut up to cushion the screws.

One more thing. I have a 50 gallon which is not setup yet, and a 75 galllon that houses some angels, and rummies. I currently have an Eheim Pro 2026(i think) in the 75 gallon, but noticed that it seems to have lost some flow. Should I place the CFS500 on the 75 gallon and put the Eheim in the 50? How do you place the outlet on your tanks? I currently have the spray bar on the left flowing across the whole tank, and have the intake on the right. Should I keep it the same, or place it towards to middle facing the output towards the front?


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## waters10

I got mine today, from topdogsellers.

It came with the black, white and blue pads. It also came with the huge green vinyl hoses, not the corrugated ones. Wow, these hoses are massive!!

I got the O-rings as well. I also got 3/4" fender washers plus neoprene washers to avoid cracks on the lid. There's a thread on monster fish keepers about how somebody overtightened the nuts, cracked the lid and emptied half the tank ... Scary stuff, specially for first time canister owners like myself.

I only did a test run so far. I was VERY surprised how little you have to tight the nuts to get a seal. I was really expecting the filter to leak, then turn it off, tight a bit more until I got no leaks. Wasn't necessary. Got perfect seal on the first try.

I'll be building a reactor/jager inline heater (got the Heyco cord grip today as well) and also a spray bar to use along with this filter. I decided to keep 1" across the board to minimize flow reduction, but I'm not very happy about putting a 1" spray bar in the tank! It'll be quite an eye sore ... 

I'm still considering the circumference mod. While going 4-6 months without cleaning the filter would be awesome, crud that's in the filter is still inside the tank ...

Soon, I'll finally give my trusted aquaclear 110 some deserved rest ...


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## Wasserpest

waters10 said:


> I was VERY surprised how little you have to tight the nuts to get a seal. I was really expecting the filter to leak, then turn it off, tight a bit more until I got no leaks. Wasn't necessary. Got perfect seal on the first try.


I suspect that over-tightening of the nuts leads to a bowing cover with a possibility of leaks. If you tighten the cover very gently, it keeps its shape and seals well against the gaskets.


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## waters10

Wasserpest said:


> I suspect that over-tightening of the nuts leads to a bowing cover with a possibility of leaks. If you tighten the cover very gently, it keeps its shape and seals well against the gaskets.


Yeah. And the bowing leads to cracks and a split lid later on.

Since it's my first canister and after reading some of the lid problems, I'm running mine inside a shallow container with a water level alarm just in case.


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## bklyndrvr

OK.. I got my CFS500 late last week and finally have time to modding the filters. I want to go with a combo of both wasserpets mods and cwo4guners. Here's a question though, when you cut the filters down, did you cut the filter grooves all the way to the bottom lined up, or did you cut grooves in the white and black sponges and not have the grooves alternating? Did that make sense?

waters10: And geez those green hoses are HUGE!


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## Wasserpest

The grooves I cut into the sponges line up, and the hair rollers I used to keep them open are lined up as well. The intent is for some of the water to pass by the sponges and enter through the bottom -> sponge as well. The pump sucks water out from the center of the two sponges.

If the grooves don't line up, the water will not flow through the bottom sponge.

In the second picture here you can see that the rollers stick out a bit from the bottom sponge, basically they help lining up the top sponge.

Very happy with the filter so far. I haven't started to run CO2 through it yet, but next time my Hagen Mini clogs up I will switch it over.


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## bklyndrvr

We happen to be at a dollar store yesterday, and my wife gave me a funny look when I put the bag of rollers on the counter.


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## waters10

bklyndrvr said:


> OK.. I got my CFS500 late last week and finally have time to modding the filters. I want to go with a combo of both wasserpets mods and cwo4guners. Here's a question though, when you cut the filters down, did you cut the filter grooves all the way to the bottom lined up, or did you cut grooves in the white and black sponges and not have the grooves alternating? Did that make sense?
> 
> waters10: And geez those green hoses are HUGE!





Wasserpest said:


> Very happy with the filter so far. I haven't started to run CO2 through it yet, but next time my Hagen Mini clogs up I will switch it over.


I lined up the grooves. I actually modified mine exactly like Wasserpest, with the exception of his last mod, that I didn't perform. The small hose to suck air from the lid.

Regarding CO2, I built a reactor/heater and I'm seeing CO2 bubbles blowing in my tank ... My reactor/heater is shaped like an "L", and the reactor part of it is about 20-22" and I insert CO2 around the middle.

Yesterday I built 2 3/4" spray bars to replace my single 1". I'm splitting the flow before the reactor, so the lower flow should improve my reactor situation and my water circulation per my other thread. I'll hook up everything tonight.


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## waters10

bklyndrvr,

Just answering some of your earlier questions about placement of filter intake and output, I started a thread about that. You can read here about how I setup water flow with my Odyssea. I'm very happy with the results! But keep in mind I have discus, so I don't want fast flow.


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## bklyndrvr

I modded my CFS500 yesterday. I did a combo of the two mods. I made larger 2" cuts in the sponges like gunner did, and used the rollers to raise the sponges a little and stuck some into the cuts to help them stay open. I noticed that the black sponge is a lot softer, so it seemed they seemed to help on that sponge more then the white one. I did not cut the strainer, nor did I cut the tube where the hoses attach to the intake and outflow. Did you find that necessary?


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## waters10

bklyndrvr said:


> I did not cut the strainer, nor did I cut the tube where the hoses attach to the intake and outflow. Did you find that necessary?


I wasn't going to cut the strainer either. The idea is to suck water from the bottom and not only from the white sponge. I decided to do it, because I couldn't see any negative. There's no gap between the sponges, so no bypass possible. 

Worst case scenario, it pulls most of the water from the side and then it's working like the strainer is intact.


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## bklyndrvr

I finally got it all hooked up and into my tank yesterday. Two things, mine didn't come with any suction cups or anything like that to keep the intake and such in place. What did you guys do? Also, I have a tiny leak on the hose that attaches to the outflow. I get a drop every couple of seconds. Right now, I have a paper towel wrapped around that part to clolect any water, and overnight the towel is damp, but there no other water around anywhere. I tried to shove the hose as far in as I could, and have the hose clamp as tight as I can. I'm thinking of running to HD or lowes for some better hose clamps.


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## waters10

bklyndrvr said:


> I finally got it all hooked up and into my tank yesterday. Two things, mine didn't come with any suction cups or anything like that to keep the intake and such in place. What did you guys do? Also, I have a tiny leak on the hose that attaches to the outflow. I get a drop every couple of seconds. Right now, I have a paper towel wrapped around that part to clolect any water, and overnight the towel is damp, but there no other water around anywhere. I tried to shove the hose as far in as I could, and have the hose clamp as tight as I can. I'm thinking of running to HD or lowes for some better hose clamps.


I think gunner mentioned somewhere that the O-Rings there shouldn't be there, so I removed them. It makes sense, since barbed connections never have an O-Ring. I think those are the red O-Rings. But definitely get better hose clamps.


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## Wasserpest

bklyndrvr said:


> I finally got it all hooked up and into my tank yesterday. Two things, mine didn't come with any suction cups or anything like that to keep the intake and such in place. What did you guys do? Also, I have a tiny leak on the hose that attaches to the outflow. I get a drop every couple of seconds. Right now, I have a paper towel wrapped around that part to clolect any water, and overnight the towel is damp, but there no other water around anywhere. I tried to shove the hose as far in as I could, and have the hose clamp as tight as I can. I'm thinking of running to HD or lowes for some better hose clamps.


Is it possible that you displaced the O-ring when shoving the hose onto the outflow? I managed to do that once and had a leak as well. When I took it apart I noticed that the O-ring was partially pushed out of its groove which prevented a seal. It's a bit uncommon to put O-rings there, but once you get the hoses attached without dislocating them they probably help/don't harm.


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## bklyndrvr

Actually, I haven't checked today. It was good yesterday. I would assume that someone would've been yelling at me by now if they see a puddle by the 75 gallon tank..


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## CWO4GUNNER

The only reason I first had cut groves in top sponge was becasue I was experimenting but the next day had the epiphany that in order to take advantage of the filters full circumference potential, both top white and bottom block sponges had to be trimmed evenly away 2 inches from the sides of the canister inside walls just like the FX5 (sigh) from the top white sponge to all but the bottom 1 inch of the black sponge. The bottom 1 inch acting as a bushing to keep the sponge centered and provide a bypass-prevention seal to make sure water does not sneak past in a short cut to the pump, clearly indicated in the photo's I posted showing the white ring at the bottom of the poly-blanket rapped sponge (sigh). In addition the whole purpose of a circumference filter witch is 6 times the surface area of the stock configuration is to allow fine polishing media (the poly blanket) to wrap and seal the sponge becasue with so much surface area you are able to have all the benefits of fine polishing with long endurance and high water volume throughput, all while while increasing bacteria colony surface area by at least 5 times due the the poly-blanket micro surface 
area which is far more then the sponge alone (sigh). This method is an all win (polishing)-all win (endurance)-and all win (bio-filtration) situation. Again his is the way "ALL" world-wide industry "circumference filters" work, the finest media on the outer orbit followed by successively courser media toward the center or bottom where the pump or intake is located. To NOT wrap the sponge in poly-blanket as clearly shown in my pictorial is counter productive, akin to placing high performance rims on a car with no tires (sigh). From the prospective of knowing and understanding circumference design that is a pretty accurate analogy (sigh). :icon_roll


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## fishlegs

Gunner, I just had to post to say your circumference mod is one of the most intriguing and sensible modifications I've seen in this hobby. The explanation of functional surface area of a cylinder for mechanical filtration really made me think about how my other filters work in comparison.

Is there a particular product you recommend for use as the poly-blanket wrap?

Thanks for the info (and your military service!).


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## CWO4GUNNER

fishlegs said:


> Gunner, I just had to post to say your circumference mod is one of the most intriguing and sensible modifications I've seen in this hobby. The explanation of functional surface area of a cylinder for mechanical filtration really made me think about how my other filters work in comparison.
> 
> Is there a particular product you recommend for use as the poly-blanket wrap?
> 
> Thanks for the info (and your military service!).


I found that any woven Poly-Batten used as a filler for making hobby quilts works exceptionally well. On sale it can be quite cheap as I bought 7 huge bags for $35 which will probubly last be years. This online at Joann Fabric & Craft.


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## bklyndrvr

Since I have to play with the hoses, I will take apart my CFS500 and put the poly batting around the sponges. My wife is already rolling her eyes at me.


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## im2smart4u

I am a poor college student on a budget. I was thinking of getting 2 of these to put on my 125 gallon tank. Do you think that would work okay, or should I spend WAY more money and get one of the eheims or renas rated for a 125?


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## hupp

Ok, been looking at these filters for a while. I have a 110 with a Cascade 1000, an emperor 400, and a peguin 330. I am looking to replace the HOBs with a new canister. Should I go with 500 or bigger 700 with the UV. Would the UV actually be sufficient on this setup? thanks!


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## musicmanmoses

I use a 500 on my heavily planted 125. Keeps the water crystal clear!!!!!


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## hupp

I think the 500 would be sufficient with the cascade going to but I was really needing to know if the UV in the 700 would be sufficient for my tank. I'd really like to use it if it's worth it. If not I will go with the 500.


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## im2smart4u

Musicman, do you only have the one CFS 500? It says it is only rated for up to 100 gallons. I know a lot of people like to turn their tanks over a lot, that is why I was going to go with two 500s on my 125. They would turn it over between 7 to 8 times an hour. I have never had a canister filter, though, so I am not sure if this is too much or not enough.


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## sns26

I just picked up one of these from topdogseller - it came with blue, black, and white sponge (no bioballs) and the big green 1" tubing. After reading through this discussion a few times, I'm wondering about two things:

1. I'm planning to run an inline Hydor 300w heater with this filter, which accepts 5/8" tubing. Has anyone had any problems running this filter for an extended period of time with 3/4 or 5/8" flex tubing instead of the giant 1" green vinyl tubes that Odyssea supplies? Has anyone found an elegant way to attach smaller tubing to the filter hose connections (more elegant than simply using a 1" x 5/8" hose barb reducer)?

2. Has anyone successfully bubbled CO2 into the flow upstream of this filter and used it as a reactor? Alternatively, does anyone have info on what general size rex-type reactor will work with this filter? (I.e. what diameter and what length)?


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## markksheets

*Topdogsellers cfs 500*

I had this delivered on 4/22/2011. I got the black ,white and blue sponges and the thin green ribbed hoses. The I.D. of the hose is very large. they push on with out heating them up. I did not even try to ust the clamps that came with it. I used standard stainless steel hose clamps about a buck each.

The red valves pushed on easy, you need to push in the button while pushing them on. I didnt seem to notice that the o rings were too large.

I was gonna replace the thin green hoses, but Home Depot was out of the size that I think would have fit.

Massive flow was blowing my turtle all over the place (more on that later). So far, so good.


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## markksheets

Turtle Tank:
I had built a grid of 1/2' PVC under the rocks. I attached the graval vac hose to it when I did water changes to avoid loosening any debris into the water.

The CFS 500 arrived, I put a 3/4' "T" in the intake, and ran a 1/2' pvc to the existing grid. The 3/4' side has a shut off valve. with the valve open it can draw from the included "U Tube" and the grid. If I shut the valve the suction is directly from the grid under the rocks. I hope this will pull all the "Crap" from under the rocks. Turtles are messy. The additional plumbing and connectors reduced the flow a bit, I was gonna have to turn the valves down anyway to keep the turtle from body surfing.

I DID NOT TRY TO CREATE AN UNDERGRAVEL FILTER

If there is a bio benefit from this it can only help.

I know this isn't a turtle forum but all the knowledge here.....

Will this cause me any problems that I might not realize?


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## markksheets

Oh yeah, 55 Gallon tank, 1 5" Yellow Bellied slider and a small Pleco.


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## markksheets

The ribbed hoses are too big for 3/4" barb and too small for 1" barb, I think they are 22mm. The red valve barbes are bigger than the barbs on the provided u tubes. So I think best bet would be find hose that fit smaller size fitting you may have and heat and stretch to the larger size.

22mm is basically 7/8". I never actually measred athe tubing but I tried it with barbs at Home Depot (grey plastic in the sprinkler "POLY" tubing section). I think I got the 22mm from this forum.


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## Wasserpest

markksheets said:


> The red valves pushed on easy, you need to push in the button while pushing them on. I didnt seem to notice that the o rings were too large.


Perhaps the manufacturer read/listened and replaced the O-rings with some better fitting ones. Wouldn't be hard to do...

Can't really address your other questions/thoughts/statements. The hoses should fit on a 1" OD barb, perhaps after a hot water bath.


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## bklyndrvr

I have had the CFS500 for about 2 monthes now. What I see is that it's a very powerfull filter with alot of flow. I am very impressed with it and would recommend it, but here's my gripes.
The hoses are too short. Mine came with two sections of Green 1" hoses, but in my 75 gallon, I keep it on the bottom right of the tank. The outflow on the right, and intake towards to left. It doesn't reach all the way to the left, and since it doesn't come with any type of suction cups, it just free hangs in the middle of hte tank. I know that I buy new hoses, and will eventually get to that.
Second gripe is that the cover cracked on me. I don't think I over tightened the lugs, so here's what I think caused it. I cut a sponge to cover the intake, and I'm thinking when the sponge got too clogged, it actually started to get sucked into the intake, and stopped most of the flow. So I'm thinking the motor is so strong, that the sucking it was trying to do actually caused too much of a vacum and cracked the cover??
Well either way, I ordered a new cover ($15) and got it two days later. I'm now going to get the wax ring that gunner recommended.


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## sns26

I've now had one of these running for a couple of days. I've noted two problems. 

The first is that the filter sometimes makes an annoying gurgling sound if I don't tip it ever so slightly in one direction. I'm guessing that there is some air trapped under the lid; if I don't tip it so that the bubble floats up away from the water intake, it causes the sound. Anyone figure out a way of avoiding this?

The second is that my lid leaks if I am not excruciatingly careful in the way I tighten the clamp nuts. If I make them at all tight, the lid warps and water leak out. I can avoid leaks if I just barely snug the big plastic nuts up against the lid. I did put some beeswax on the lid o-rings, and that seemed to help a little too. But overall, this is a disconcerting issue--I have no confidence that the thing won't just start spontaneously leaking on some night. Am I doing something wrong?


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## Wasserpest

Regarding the gurgling sound, I don't experience it (but I modded my filter). One thing you could try is to tilt the filter permanently (like put a pencil underneath one side) so that the outflow is situated highest up. This should make it easier for the filter to purge any bubbles.

Also make sure the inlet isn't in an area of extreme photosynthesis activity (like above a mat of pearling plants), isn't restricted in any way (clean inlet strainer - don't use a "prefilter" - no kinked hoses), and doesn't suck air.

Regarding the cover, yeah I wish they would make that from stainless steel! :wink: Plastic always flexes, and what "tighten the nut" means to you and means to me could be totally different things. :hihi:

Here is what I do: I push down on the center of the cover while "tightening" the nuts very, very lightly. I start with one, then go across to the next one, back and forth, like you would mount a tire on a car. Always pushing down in the center to make sure the cover sits tightly on the gasket. What's lightly you ask? Basically once I feel resistance, I go perhaps another half turn.

Now I connect the filter to the hoses and slowly open the valves. Note that my filter is sitting in a plastic container that will catch any water that trickles out. As I open the valves, I check if any water is coming out. Where that happens, I tighten the nuts just a little bit more until the trickling stops.

Now when I turn on the filter, the cover gets sucked against the canister housing and creates a perfect seal. In case of a power outage, there might be some drops of water that are pushed out through the gaskets, but the bowl catches them.

It is definitely not as simple as clamping down some clamps like on a Filstar... so this filter isn't for everyone. I have mine running now for almost 8 weeks without maintenance, and there is still plenty of flow left... so to me, a little bit of fiddling is worth it.


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## bklyndrvr

I didn't get to a HD or Lowes, so I didn't get the wax ring yet, but I did get the new cover on and replaced it. Since I had the filter open (it smelled like death BTW) I decided to clean it out. I also need to get to a walmart or some other crafts store to get the poly batting. Either way, I took out the sponges and noticed that there was dirt around most of the sponge, so it looks like the circumference mods work great. Once cleaned, I filled it up, and hooked it back on the tank. What I did since I didn't want to crack the lid, was tighten the lugs as loose as I can get it. I turned on the filter, and slowly tighened each lug till it stopped leaking. This way I know i didn't over tighten. It's been that way for over two days and I haven't seen a leak yet. Hopefully this will work out. Once again I really like the filter for it's brute force flow and filtration abilities.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Here is the newest and best fix for the prevention of cracked lids. Works so well even Im even using it and I diden't even think if it. Make sure you check out the photos.
_*I would like to reemphasize that funkmans DIY Mod of cutting a plywood or wood support flange work excellent to maintain even support of the plastic lid against the large O-rings which relives any possibility of stress cracks from over tightening. I'm making them not only for my CFS-500,s but for all my FX5's as well, excellent and simple support Mod.*








Originally Posted by *funkman262*  
Thank you for the review and troubleshooting the filter to come up with some really effective mods. I do have one thing to add though. My lid ended up getting fractures all over. I began by getting leaks through the lid and couldn't even see any cracks; it was as if the water was just diffusing through the plastic. Not long after, the cracks were very visible and water was quickly leaking out. I realized that the major problem was that the locks weren't evenly distributed along the lid, so why not force it to be evenly distributed? Here's what I did:

Cracks all along lid:
Attachment 169823

I cut out a ring of 1/4" birch plywood that would distribute the pressure throughout the lid:
Attachment 169824

I'm not sure if they're even necessary, but I even added on large fender washers to distribute the force from the nuts to the wood. Here it is all together:
Attachment 169825

Even with all of those cracks, I haven't had a single drop of water leak out of this thing. The addition of the wood and washers hardly adds any additional time in removing the lid as there's still enough wiggle room to loosen the nuts and bring them down without having to remove them. It was a quick, easy, and cheap fix that I would highly recommend, whether as a preventative measure or to fix an already cracked lid.


​_


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## Wasserpest

Another useful mod, thanks! I was thinking along the lines of a metal ring, but wood is much easier to manipulate. Going to do that too!


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## Buff Daddy

I've had mine since the first of the year. It's a great filter, doesn't leak (knock on wood) and isn't modded. I do squeeze the *edge* of the lid (and only the very edge, where it meets the the edge of the canister) with my left hand as I tighten with my right hand. When I get resistance, I stop tightening.

I did use "Rem Oil" on the valves for a couple of days and worked them pretty hard before setting up the filter; and I use chap stick on the lid's O ring. I have a layer of Wally World polyfill under the coarse pad and my water is crystal clear.

I use the filter to diffuse my CO2 via the intake and I have not had any gurgling issues, ever. I also only need to use 1bps for my 75G because the CO2 is diffused VERY efficiently. Anything more than 1bps gasses my fish and I've lost a couple of Giant Danios because of this. I get a month of CO2 from a 20oz paintball canister, which equals $4.28 a month for CO2.


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## smackpixi

CWO4GUNNER said:


> Here is the newest and best fix for the prevention of cracked lids. Works so well even Im even using it......to fix an already cracked lid


You guys are kidding me right?!??! All this obsessive mod idea goings on does is scare people away from a filter. If you have to worry about cracking the lid to this filter you're doing something seriously wrong. Same with Gunner's earlier idea of putting foam pads under the lid screw downs...come on guys, this filter costs $60 bucks and is ROBUST AS $#!&.

There is absolutely NO REASON to worry about the lid cracking. The only thing you need to do is replace the o-rings if the manufacturer hasn't figured that out yet and done for you. That's all you need to do, the filter will work fine stock, far better if you get all creative on the inside, and this filter is DESIGNED for you to get all creative on the inside, but seriously guys, the thing isn't gonna break in half w/o this bizzare, AND IT IS BIZZARE, wood plan.


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## OverStocked

I'm trying to figure out how people are cracking the crap out of these things. I've been running mine since Sept (beginning of thread) and no cracks at all. Just don't manhandle it. Only need to screw till snug, nothing more. If it cracked under the little force I use to screw it closed, I'd replace it.


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## bklyndrvr

I have no idea how or why mine cracked. I thought I was very carefull to not overtighten and I did tighten the lugs in a star pattern (like change tires). I was thinking because my intake got clogged by the foam I was using as a pre filter, maybe that caused such a suction that it cracked my lid? That's the only thing I can think of at this time. Eitherway, I would still recommend this filter. Like I said, I was looking for something to give me some movement in the tank, and this is just a little more expensive then a good powerhead that does flow as much. Not to mention this filters also.


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## Emerica88

Any find some suction cups that can be used to keep the intake in place?


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## sns26

*Another mod*

I've had to screw my clamps down pretty tight to prevent leaks. I read about the "plywood reinforcing ring" mod above, and cut a ring to try it. It worked okay. But in using it, I realized that the problem we are having is not that the *lid* of this filter deforms under clamp pressure. My lid stays pretty flat even under heavy clamp pressure. 

The problem is that the part of the canister body to which the clamps attach is not particularly strong. So the *body of the canister* deforms under clamp pressure. 

This is not an easy thing to solve. I see no easy way to reinforce the canister body. But, with a little tweak to the plywood ring mod, you can work around it. By gluing small shims to the plywood ring, you can redistribute the clamp pressure better than the ring alone does. This approach greatly reduces the gap between lid and body in between the clamp locations, and my filter now requires less clamp pressure to seal.

Pictures are worth a thousand words here. What you see is my plywood ring with thin (1/16") shims glued in between the clamp locations. The bottom picture is the ring in action. The bulge between the ring and the lid of the filter is the place where the shim is doing its work.


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## spaeth05

So I just added a CFS 500 (I've had a 700 running for a while) and sure enough had a lid leak. I tried all the usual fixes and had no luck until I broke out the jigsaw for a lid reinforcement ring. I can attest to the lid ring fixing my leak thus far. I'm much more comfortable with the top seal as well as less deformation of the lid.

I love these filters so far in terms of flow, price, etc. but it is a bit troublesome that so many of us have had seal / leaking issues. It seems like there has to be a way to improve on this design as they have a real winner here aside from this main issue.

Thanks to everyone for posting / sharing their modifications to this filter. I've adopted a few of these mods and I am so happy with the results!


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## kevmo911

Just noticed a CFS500 on Evilbay whose description says "Ver2.0 model. Power cord is going through the canister cover. " Searches after I'd seen this mentioned nothing new. Anybody know anything?


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## idontwan2know

Any suggestions as to the best way to use this canister as a co2 reactor? Would you inject the co2 inline on the intake, or straight into the canister body? Lid? Side? How high up?

Thinking very hard about using this canister on my next tank.

_-- Sent from my Palm Pre using Forums_


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## Wasserpest

Welcome to the Planted Tank! Bubbling the CO2 into the intake strainer sounds like the simplest, leak proof solution. Plus, it adds a little bit of additional travel to the bubble, so some of it will already be dissolved when it reaches the canister body. You'll have to see how much noise/gurgling this will cause.

Another thing to ponder is if you inject CO2 24/7 like some folks do (without using a solenoid) you should make sure that in a power outage the CO2 just bubbles to the surface rather than collect in the canister, otherwise you could end up with an airlocked impeller which isn't good. However... this filter has the pump sit on the bottom, so airlocks should be less of an issue, and most likely the filter will "auto-burp" when the power comes back on.


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## AussieSheila

Hi all, what a fabulous thread, full of amazingly informative information, tips, hints & mods!

Because of this thread I have just ordered both models of the Odyssey filter, one with UV & one without. 

However, I'm at a loss to understand how I'm supposed to get my Co2 running through it as many of you have mentioned - is anyone able to please include "female friendly" photos on how I can achieve this please as from reading that many of you do this, I'm can't even begin to imagine how - at present I use just the inline UpAqua inline diffuser but have never been happy with the way it clogs & leakage problems when taken off for cleaning etc.

Best wishes and many thanks.

Oh, one other thing, when I purchase the new o-rings for the top tap fittings, do I get all of them or just where the end of the hoses clip on to the taps? Is there one standard size/model that I need to ask for at the plumbing supply store - here in Oz we don't have the shops you've mentioned.


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## Robotguy

kevmo911 said:


> Just noticed a CFS500 on Evilbay whose description says "Ver2.0 model. Power cord is going through the canister cover. " Searches after I'd seen this mentioned nothing new. Anybody know anything?


I just got my CFS500 from TopDogSellers. It has the cord through the lid with a nice rubber compression gasket which screws together on the inside. There is a small cutout along the filter sponges for the cord, and the pump has suction cups to secure it to the floor of the filter. 

The O-Rings still feel way too tight, which is really weird since O-ring manufacturers have charts which make it simple to design diameter seals like this for a particular pressure. The mechanical engineers use them all the time at my work. So either someone really wasn't paying attention, or they did it on purpose.


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## Wasserpest

So is the pump still located at the bottom of the filter? Or now attached to the lid? Do you have a picture for us to get an idea of the new design?


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## AussieSheila

Emerica88 said:


> Any find some suction cups that can be used to keep the intake in place?


I've used the suction cup fittings off my spare heaters, they are the perfect size.


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## Robotguy

Wasserpest said:


> So is the pump still located at the bottom of the filter? Or now attached to the lid? Do you have a picture for us to get an idea of the new design?


I am having problems making the image a link, so click on the image address to see a larger pic


Top:
http://robotguy.net/aquarium/cfs500_4.jpg









Under the Lid:
http://robotguy.net/aquarium/cfs500_6.jpg









I hadn't seen anyone mention this little air purge tube, so I included a close-up:
http://robotguy.net/aquarium/cfs500_3.jpg









The pump in the filter::
http://robotguy.net/aquarium/cfs500_5.jpg









Here's a shot of the suction cup mount. It came apart pretty easily when I tried to remove the pump:
http://robotguy.net/aquarium/cfs500_8.jpg


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## Wasserpest

Thank you! Huh, I wonder why they did that. I like V1 better... no need to mess around with the cable when maintaining the filter.


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## Robotguy

Wasserpest said:


> Thank you! Huh, I wonder why they did that. I like V1 better... no need to mess around with the cable when maintaining the filter.


If you leave the pump attached to the bottom of the filter, you can't set the lid down, it hangs by the cord. That can't be good. I'm going to have to set the lid on something while I clean out the filter.

I picked up new O-rings at Lowes; there's a big difference. I'm keeping my fingers crossed for no leaks.

I am putting this on my 40br, so I am making a clear acrylic spraybar before I try it out so I don't blow all my sand away...


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## semperfimrn1

i just placed an order for one for my 80g. hope it does a good job. i dont plan on modding it. just keep it normal and simple.

any hints or cliffs one can give


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## semperfimrn1

i just set mine up with no problems at all..(knocks on wood) nothing broke or leaked. it is very quiet and awesome flow. my fish were all like what? haha.

the hoses were plastic gray tubing. not any green or clear tubing that i was used to. ill try it like that for awhile. no suction cups came with it which i was hoping to make it straight and look right but i guess i might have to find some big ones..

so far so good!!


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## Robotguy

I now have mine running on my 40b. I spent half a day making an adjustable clear acrylic spraybar (1" dia X 24" long), but ended up using the nozzle that came with the filter. Maybe I'll RAOK the spraybar if anyone is interested. The stock nozzle blew my Flourite Sand around a bit until I found the right positioning. I moved my Neon Tetras over from my 10G that had a "330GPH" HOB on it, so they were used to the extra flow, and I know my Oto likes it. I had a bunch of frogbit and duckweed floating on the surface but had to remove the duckweed because it kept getting blown around and made the tank look terrible. The frogbit manages to hang out comfortably at the opposite end zone from the output nozzle, and never really ventures past the 25 yard line.

I picked up some quilt batting and made the circumference mods because I wasn't happy with the water clarity with the stock setup. My water is much clearer now.

Last but not least, I am running my DIY CO2 directly into the intake at just over 1 bps. It makes a small "drip" sound and I only get the occasional teeny weeny bubble from the outflow nozzle. It should be interesting to see how much better the CO2 works with this filter, as it's my first canister.


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## m00se

I bought one of these last week and did gunner's mod. I have it on a 30 gallon tank with a spray bar I made out of cpvc. I painted the spraybar black with Fusion, and it looks terrific. Not too much flow for this tank at all. I made the spray bar 30" long with it T'd in the center. Running pressurized CO2 into the intake until I get some advice on how to proceed. It came with the gray corrugated hose. I was hoping for the green vinyl version so I could plumb a T into the return and add a Quiet One 1200 and Cerges reactor for pressurized CO2. I am going to begin a new thread about that right now.

All in all very happy (for having it all of a week).


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## scapegoat

m00se said:


> I bought one of these last week and did gunner's mod. I have it on a 30 gallon tank with a spray bar I made out of cpvc. I painted the spraybar black with Fusion, and it looks terrific. Not too much flow for this tank at all. I made the spray bar 30" long with it T'd in the center. Running pressurized CO2 into the intake until I get some advice on how to proceed. It came with the gray corrugated hose. I was hoping for the green vinyl version so I could plumb a T into the return and add a Quiet One 1200 and Cerges reactor for pressurized CO2. I am going to begin a new thread about that right now.
> 
> All in all very happy (for having it all of a week).


i have the green hose and it's crap... didn't fit well at all. i use it to empty my 20g that is outside with some drift wood in it for now


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## m00se

I sprang for the reinforced 1" vinyl hose from Lowes and I will replace the corrugated stuff with it next time I take it apart. I hear bad things about it. I got to thinking that they chose it because it is actually fairly light and flexible in comparison. Maybe they figure it will reduce the stress on the valves?

Then I read about how it can crack and if you aren't meticulous about catching the O-ring when it slips out of it's seat, you'll get leaks. Also a headache to bottle brush when it gets gunked up eventually.


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## Robotguy

m00se said:


> I sprang for the reinforced 1" vinyl hose from Lowes and I will replace the corrugated stuff with it next time I take it apart.


I saw that the other day when I was shopping for PVC parts to build the spraybar and was amazed at the minor cost difference between the standard 1" and the reinforced. I think I'll upgrade from the gray corrugated also in the near future. The stock hose does feel worryingly flimsy


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## ElCoronel

smackpixi said:


> You guys are kidding me right?!??! All this obsessive mod idea goings on does is scare people away from a filter. If you have to worry about cracking the lid to this filter you're doing something seriously wrong. Same with Gunner's earlier idea of putting foam pads under the lid screw downs...come on guys, this filter costs $60 bucks and is ROBUST AS $#!&.
> 
> There is absolutely NO REASON to worry about the lid cracking. The only thing you need to do is replace the o-rings if the manufacturer hasn't figured that out yet and done for you. That's all you need to do, the filter will work fine stock, far better if you get all creative on the inside, and this filter is DESIGNED for you to get all creative on the inside, but seriously guys, the thing isn't gonna break in half w/o this bizzare, AND IT IS BIZZARE, wood plan.


I really want to believe this. I have a 55 gallon Mbuna tank, overstocked. I must have done something right because some of them bred and at least 6, maybe 8 look like they'll survive to maturity. So my tank is even more overstocked. I have a Fluval 305 and I decided to add a Magnum HOT. Turns out I don't have quite enough room behind the tank for it so I'm just using it for occasional water polishes. I've tossed a Fluval U3 in the meantime to help some but obviously that's not moving nearly enough water at all. I don't have the room or the courage to try a wet/dry so I'm leaning towards another canister. I really like the price of the CFS 500 and that it lends itself to mods but I'm nervous with so many people reporting cracks, leaks and creating these elaborate work arounds to combat the filters flaws. If I got this, I'd use it stock (aside from the no-brainer O-ring change and maybe new hoses) and mod the media at a later date. Should I get a CFS 500 or put my money on a 'safe' Fluval 305/405?


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## MCHRKiller

Get a SunSun 302...theyre about the same price as the CFS-500 and tend to be a safer "cheap" filter


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## CWO4GUNNER

Im going to experiment with a cracked CFS500 lid that is still good I have saved to try and strengthen more naturally and permanent. Im thinking about strengthening the top lid by of using either flat PVC plastic or acrylic plastic and then use PVC or acrylic plastic weld resin to create a one piece super strong uncrackable top. Also instead of just a using a ring of plywood mine will be a complete lid reinforcement with only holes cut to allow the inlet and outlet tubes to protrude out the full 1/4 inch thick acrylic or PVC plate support covering the entire top. 

I have a brand new 302 Sunsun still in the box becasue even though they are OK as stacked filter designs go, they are by design a very poor and anemic replacement compared to almost any circumference filter. Even the smallest circumference filter like the Magnum 250 with only 8W runs circles around the Sunsun in so far as true filtering/cleaning performance. Compared to a CFS500 set up for circumference polishing, it would require having 6 Sunsun 302's plugged in and running. I have said it before and ill say it again, stacked layered filtering is completely outclassed by circumference filtration technology either by circular membranes in canisters or giant circular socks inside sumps. Stacked filtration is a relatively recent and backwards method use exclusively for the home aquarium market to help make changing a filter as simple and non-thinking as possible and to promote the rapid consumption and sale of proprietory cornucopia of filter media's that you really don't need.:smile:


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## fishlegs

ElCoronel said:


> I really want to believe this. I have a 55 gallon Mbuna tank, overstocked. I must have done something right because some of them bred and at least 6, maybe 8 look like they'll survive to maturity. So my tank is even more overstocked. I have a Fluval 305 and I decided to add a Magnum HOT. Turns out I don't have quite enough room behind the tank for it so I'm just using it for occasional water polishes. I've tossed a Fluval U3 in the meantime to help some but obviously that's not moving nearly enough water at all. I don't have the room or the courage to try a wet/dry so I'm leaning towards another canister. I really like the price of the CFS 500 and that it lends itself to mods but I'm nervous with so many people reporting cracks, leaks and creating these elaborate work arounds to combat the filters flaws. If I got this, I'd use it stock (aside from the no-brainer O-ring change and maybe new hoses) and mod the media at a later date. Should I get a CFS 500 or put my money on a 'safe' Fluval 305/405?


Don't believe it, because the cracking issues are real.

I read this entire thread prior to purchasing my CFS 500. I did the circumference mod, and changed the in/out stem o-rings. I was worried about the lid cracking issues, so I loosely tightened the lid nuts, plugged in the filter, then tightened the nuts just enough to stop it from leaking. I assumed the reported lid crack issues were due to over-tightening, and thought I would avoid over-tightening this way. Well after three weeks, the lid developed tiny cracks around three of the nuts and started leaking. I was able to stop some of the leakage using two-part epoxy putty, but it still leaks about 5-10G per day. Now I have the canister sitting in a tray to catch the leaked water, and I'm using two small pumps (Aqualifters) to push the leaked water back into the tank. 

*I absolutely refuse to pay these guys more money for a new lid.* I'm going to attempt a better repair job today, and I will certainly be making a lid flange. On my CFS500, I can see both the *lid and body* plastic severely bows near the nuts. It seems that the gap between the lid and body is too large. Perhaps some of these units came with the wrong lid o-ring? In my case, it is clear that the plastic gave way long before enough pressure can be applied evenly to the o-ring to create a seal.

Anyways, if I were you, I would not purchase this filter unless I was willing to do serious modifications. Would I buy another CFS 500? No, because all of this has made me realize how simple a canister filter is. Why are we spending hundreds of dollars on them? It's just a pump in a sealed bucket! I am now convinced I could build a comparable filter out of a 5G bucket and a few uniseals. All that matters is throughput and surface area.


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## CWO4GUNNER

fishlegs said:


> I am now convinced I could build a comparable filter out of a 5G bucket and a few uniseals. All that matters is throughput and surface area.


Don't be convinced its been tried even with industrial 5 gallon buckets and are too weak to take the under-tank positive pressure. However it is possible using such things as old screw lid water dispenser/cooler, old pressure cooker, old wet/dry vac canisters if you can find away to seal the lid. The key is a canister that can take pressure air or water and has a o-ring type seal-able lid. I have built a few that work, mots of them requiring the canister to be at the same level as the tank eliminating all pressure. If you have any floor canister that is leaking due to under-tank pressure, simply placing it off the floor and level with the tanks will eliminate the problem. I personally like having my circumference canisters on the floor. Incedentally if you build you own you will spend more then $150 in parts and materials, not to mention labor, you will however get a priceless education.

If you want a low cost circumference floor canister that will never give you leak issues and is gallon per gallon cheaper (5g vs 1g) then the CFS500, then at $230 shipped a new FX5 is your filter. I have been running 6 going on 3 years and have had nothing but outstanding long term performance from them. You could not build one of these for the price they sell and ship [Ebay Link Removed] so go to eBay and type in "FX5 filter canister" and the "Buy-Now" $219 with FREE shipping adds will pop up. WAIT! Correct my last they are on sale for $209 shipped without the Biomax 8^D


PS Im still using my 2 CFS500 successfully with some crack issues remedied but not 1 drop of leaking on my rug no outer container needed.


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## m00se

fishlegs said:


> Don't believe it....


Did you get the V1 or V2 filter?

I've had mine running for 2+ months now and to my eye, it looks as solid as the day it was installed....


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## Wasserpest

CWO4GUNNER said:


> If you want a low cost circumference floor canister that will never give you leak issues and is gallon per gallon cheaper (5g vs 1g) then the CFS500, then at $230 shipped a new FX5 is your filter. I have been running 6 going on 3 years and have had nothing but outstanding long term performance from them. You could not build one of these for the price they sell and ship so go to eBay and type in "FX5 filter canister" and the "Buy-Now" $219 with FREE shipping adds will pop up. WAIT! Correct my last they are on sale for $209 shipped without the Biomax 8^D


Wow. Awfully tempting price right there. Weren't they ~$350 not so long ago? Must be the B&M overhead added in.

Oh well, I still have an unopened CFS500 in my garage that I bought "just in case" the original falls apart. It hasn't yet.


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## farrenator

Does it look like V2 solved the cracking lid problem or are people still having to baby these things and pray they don't look at it the wrong way and cause a crack? It is hard to beat the price but it seems too good to be true.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Wasserpest said:


> Wow. Awfully tempting price right there. Weren't they ~$350 not so long ago? Must be the B&M overhead added in.


Actually they have always been about $350 in store fronts and corporate pet websites, but on eBay for the last 2 years as low as $230-$210 new shipped and where I have bought 5 of my 6 FX5's never paying more then $230 shipped. I reserve the use of my CFS500 for my sub-100G tanks. Until I find a solid solution for the lid-crack issue of the CFS500, I will not be going beyond my current purchase of 2, and will not be using them as a replacement for the FX5 on larger tanks. Ashamed really becasue the CFS500 makes such an excellent large surface area, high capacity, high endurance circumference filter when modified. Hard to believe that some QA production manager in China is unable to grasp this issue and correct the problem, but its a common trend in all Chinese manufacturing and likely to remain so for quite some time.


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## SteveMcQueen

How are you folks plumbing your C02 line into these things? I just picked up a CFS700 and plan on running a paintball setup into the intake.


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## Wasserpest

Yup, straight into the intake would be the most simple solution. Other options would be to add a "T" somewhere, or go as far as drilling the canister and adding a nipple (perhaps to the lid?).

Just had an idea along the lines of the lid reinforcement. You know those black metal binder clips? I don't know if there is one big enough, but adding six of them right between the screws (where the lid and canister rim bow apart) might be a very simple and effective way to reduce the stress on the lid, and at the same time reduce the risk of leaks. 

The screws don't need to be tightened too hard, because the water is pumped out of the filter, which pulls the lid towards the canister body. At least as long as the filter is running. Using the binder clips would further equalize the pressure around the lid, without having to pull out a jig saw.


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## CWO4GUNNER

I don't think any type of reinforcement used near the edge in the vicinity where the stock hold down place pressure is the answer, even if the entire outer ring is clipped down more. I believe the answer is in distribution of load on the entire lid or at least 60% of it . If someone could make a reenforcing plate even made of plywood that covered the entire lid with holes cut for the IN/OUT ports so that the load from tightening down the stock lid nuts would place as much pressure on the center of the lid as the edges of the lid then the cracking would stop becasue the entire lid would share the load not just one square inch around the edges. It like the difference between having a full dress Harley Davidson slowly run over your legs the tires at just one point and then having it run over you with your legs under a 4X8 sheet of 1" plywood. Because the large sheet distributes the load of the narrow tires, you sustain no injuries.

The problem with my idea is that the lid shape is concave or domed slightly not flat and so in order to make a support flange that would load evenly the flange itself would have to be shaped the same perhaps milling the plywood with a router or using layers of hard rubber at the outer edges to take up the slack space the center dome would cause using flat plywood. This is why I haven't cut a new plywood support flange yet as Im still trying to figure out how to do this simply without special tools except a jig-saw, door knob hole-saw and drill.


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## SteveMcQueen

Sounds like you could almost use a compressor V-band clamp if it was large enough and had the right thickness.


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## Gold8165

CWO4GUNNER said:


> I don't think any type of reinforcement used near the edge in the vicinity where the stock hold down place pressure is the answer, even if the entire outer ring is clipped down more. I believe the answer is in distribution of load on the entire lid or at least 60% of it . If someone could make a reenforcing plate even made of plywood that covered the entire lid with holes cut for the IN/OUT ports so that the load from tightening down the stock lid nuts would place as much pressure on the center of the lid as the edges of the lid then the cracking would stop becasue the entire lid would share the load not just one square inch around the edges. It like the difference between having a full dress Harley Davidson slowly run over your legs the tires at just one point and then having it run over you with your legs under a 4X8 sheet of 1" plywood. Because the large sheet distributes the load of the narrow tires, you sustain no injuries.
> 
> The problem with my idea is that the lid shape is concave or domed slightly not flat and so in order to make a support flange that would load evenly the flange itself would have to be shaped the same perhaps milling the plywood with a router or using layers of hard rubber at the outer edges to take up the slack space the center dome would cause using flat plywood. This is why I haven't cut a new plywood support flange yet as Im still trying to figure out how to do this simply without special tools except a jig-saw, door knob hole-saw and drill.



Looking at pics of a replacement lid on fleabay doesn't seem to be a dome in center of lid.Could you possibly post some better pics of this at a good angle so someone might be able to come up with some suggestions or ideas? I am interested in this filter as well (125 gal sa tank and do not want to spend a fortune on filtration). But the lid problem seems to be the only unresolved issue.I work for a molding company that uses various materials such as epoxy,resin,fiberglass,bondo.Bondo would maybe be a cheap option but would likely crack under pressure.Maybe one of these could be used in conjunction with wood or metal to solve problem? Pics would help but was thinking in this order.outer ring,fill center with liquid substance that hardens,cap it off with wood or metal to distribute the load on the entire lid.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Well I went ahead and took an actual measurement and so if you place a straightedge or a long ruler on side across the top circular diameter of the CFS500 lid you will note that the center of the lid is raised slightly so that the circumference of the outer lid edges is slightly lower by 1/8". So if one could compensate a full lid flange support so that the outer edge used a shim perhaps made of cardboard or cut from an old rubber inner-tube, you probubly could prevent cracks becasue a full lid support flange (DIY) would prevent the center of the stock unsupported lid from raising and heaving under pressure causing the edges to crack overtime.


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## sns26

I have just about had it with this filter. I fiddled and fiddled today for ages to get my lid to seal after doing a filter change. And now there seems to be some sort of tiny air leak in the red valve on the inlet side--I can hear it "whooshing" air into the filter now and again. 

I've sunk a fair amount of cash into this hobby and I'm beginning to think that a filter was not the place for me to try to save money. That may be because this is for a show tank in a living room, and because I like my filter maintenance to be quick, dry, and simple. 

So if I wanted to get the same kind of flow from another canister filter and were willing to spend the bucks on an Eheim...which one would I get?


----------



## mott

sns26 said:


> I have just about had it with this filter. I fiddled and fiddled today for ages to get my lid to seal after doing a filter change. And now there seems to be some sort of tiny air leak in the red valve on the inlet side--I can hear it "whooshing" air into the filter now and again.
> 
> I've sunk a fair amount of cash into this hobby and I'm beginning to think that a filter was not the place for me to try to save money. That may be because this is for a show tank in a living room, and because I like my filter maintenance to be quick, dry, and simple.
> 
> So if I wanted to get the same kind of flow from another canister filter and were willing to spend the bucks on an Eheim...which one would I get?



What size tank?


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## jaidexl

These cracking and leaking issues seem like a luck of the draw thing. Overseas plastics factories can have some shady QC, especially on knock-off products that are cranked out so quickly and cheaply. It might just be a plastic injection issue that affects only a percentage of production.


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## farrenator

Why not the FX5 for $230?



sns26 said:


> So if I wanted to get the same kind of flow from another canister filter and were willing to spend the bucks on an Eheim...which one would I get?


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

sns26 said:


> I have just about had it with this filter. I fiddled and fiddled today for ages to get my lid to seal after doing a filter change. And now there seems to be some sort of tiny air leak in the red valve on the inlet side--I can hear it "whooshing" air into the filter now and again.
> 
> I've sunk a fair amount of cash into this hobby and I'm beginning to think that a filter was not the place for me to try to save money. That may be because this is for a show tank in a living room, and because I like my filter maintenance to be quick, dry, and simple.
> 
> So if I wanted to get the same kind of flow from another canister filter and were willing to spend the bucks on an Eheim...which one would I get?


I recommend that if you have decided to switch to a stacked-canister-filter which is a lot less efficient and enduring then a circumference filter, you save allot by buying the Sunsun 302 for about 1/3 the price. They are every bit as efficient (perhaps more) and just as reliable and trouble fee. The Sunsun like most Stacked-canister filters is not nearly as effective, efficient nor enduring but if your going to take that path you might as well save a ton of money for comparable reliability. Everyone I know that has used one or wrote a review have nothing but good things to say about its performance and reliability. Most importantly there are no valves to force open/closed and possibly brake off.


----------



## sns26

mott said:


> What size tank?


57 gal tank. You can see the tank and plumbing in my signature. I'm trying to avoid having to put a powerhead in the tank for circulation because...I like seeing plants/fish, not equipment.

*Gunner*--the main problem I have with the Odyssea is not the circumferential flow approach (except that I'd like to find a way to use carbon/ceramic biomedia/purigen in this thing). My problems are (1) the finicky lid seal, which despite my best efforts always ends up leaking a cup of water as I fiddle with it during startup, and (2) the cheesy orange valves, which threaten to break at any moment and which in my case seem to leak air into the filter. I am plenty mechanically inclined and not afraid to mod. But at the end of the day I want the end of my mods to result in something that works reliably. I don't want to feel like I am modding every time I clean the filter. 

As a point of reference, it takes me 5 minutes total to disconnect, clean media, and reconnect an Eheim 2215. My odyssea takes me 20 minutes at least, and a lot of cursing during that time.

Anyhow, I've done a lot of work to plumb the odyssea in properly (see pic below) so I will stick with it a little while longer. Meanwhile, here are my other candidates:

Eheim 2217 ($~130) claims 208 gph.
Eheim 2075 (~$210) claims 330 gph
Eheim 2080 (~$380, ouch) claims 450 gph
Rena XP4 (~$250) claims 450 gph
Fluval FX5 (~$230) claims 925 gph


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

sns26 said:


> 57 gal tank. You can see the tank and plumbing in my signature. I'm trying to avoid having to put a powerhead in the tank for circulation because...I like seeing plants/fish, not equipment.
> 
> *Gunner*--the main problem I have with the Odyssea is not the circumferential flow approach (except that I'd like to find a way to use carbon/ceramic biomedia/purigen in this thing). My problems are (1) the finicky lid seal, which despite my best efforts always ends up leaking a cup of water as I fiddle with it during startup, and (2) the cheesy orange valves, which threaten to break at any moment and which in my case seem to leak air into the filter. I am plenty mechanically inclined and not afraid to mod. But at the end of the day I want the end of my mods to result in something that works reliably. I don't want to feel like I am modding every time I clean the filter.
> 
> As a point of reference, it takes me 5 minutes total to disconnect, clean media, and reconnect an Eheim 2215. My odyssea takes me 20 minutes at least, and a lot of cursing during that time.
> 
> Anyhow, I've done a lot of work to plumb the odyssea in properly (see pic below) so I will stick with it a little while longer. Meanwhile, here are my other candidates:
> 
> Eheim 2217 ($~130) claims 208 gph.
> Eheim 2075 (~$210) claims 330 gph
> Eheim 2080 (~$380, ouch) claims 450 gph
> Rena XP4 (~$250) claims 450 gph
> Fluval FX5 (~$230) claims 925 gph


Well the only thing on your list I can comment on is the FX5 which is about as close to a commercial filter as you can get in the hobby aquarium market, I have 6 running some as old as 3 years and some running without cleaning for more then 6 months, none of which have given me even a small problem, leak or issue. The other filters on your list although I haven't owned those particular models, know that becasue they are of the stacked in-line design they are far less designed to filter aquarium water and support Bio effectively and far better designed to support the proprietory commercial interest of the manufactures who depend on folks buying the cornucopia of boxed Brand-Name filter media medicine show products which they depend upon as their sales bread and butter. Almost all of which is not needed or can be substituted with off the self even free alternatives. But for some folks this is all part of the hobby entertainment. 

Incidentally with respect to GPM, filter surface area, volume, and capacity, the FX5 circumference filter is the lowest priced filter available by comparison to anything out there in the hobby market at $210 shipped. I have used allot of different filters and still used some others for niche applications but the FX5 is hands down the most effective, powerful, enduring, and reliable filter I have ever owned bar none, hence the cheapest I have ever owned, even on power as I run mine at 1/2 power consumption using timers with absolutely no ill effects. In fact even better results due to its ability to self purge larger filter debris that would normally clog other filters prematurely, to the bottom of the canister between 30 minute ON/OFF cycles. Why I have been able to run mine for up to a year without servicing with no disruption in flow of filtration effectiveness.


----------



## Gold8165

I was thinking about a sunsun also, the 404b.Currently i am running a fluval 405,magnum 350,marineland 350 hob,whisper ex-70 hob,and 2 aquaclear 50 powerheads with quickfilters on my 125 sa tank.I know as my fish grow i may need more filtration so was trying to decide what canister in the $120 range or less is best for large sa cichlids, as i was thinking of maybe using the magnum on my 55 tank.Why this thread sparked my interest.


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

Gold8165 said:


> I was thinking about a sunsun also, the 404b.Currently i am running a fluval 405,magnum 350,marineland 350 hob,whisper ex-70 hob,and 2 aquaclear 50 powerheads with quickfilters on my 125 sa tank.I know as my fish grow i may need more filtration so was trying to decide what canister in the $120 range or less is best for large sa cichlids, as i was thinking of maybe using the magnum on my 55 tank.Why this thread sparked my interest.


 For my tanks larger then 125G I use a 4 filter setup. (1) A 20G tall/600 GPH pump sump with 7"x16" 100 micron sock W/black Molly's inside that eat and brake down the black diterous for easier bacteria consumption (sumps are spotless??). (2) An FX5 with the 1st stage of the 300 SF circumference filter wrapped with poly-batten and the 2nd stage basket containing very porous flow-thru media. (3) A Penguin 350 HOB with no cartridges to hose my bare-root Pothos rain forest plants to remove excess ammonia now in excess of 20 feet in length and still growing. (4) An 8-Watt Magnum 250 HOB modified with Poly-fill media ready for UPS or generator encase of power outage. the 8W Mag 250 serving as both emergency-filter and power-head aerator. Lastly in all my tanks keep a fresh supply (no older then 2 years) of fresh cut and dried-unboiled Mesquite tree limbs which harbor DE-nutrifying bacteria that convert nitrates into nitrogen gas allowing me to go up to 8 weeks without a water-change, I have 9 mesquite trees on my property I maintain for this purpose besides great shade. On tanks smaller tanks between 90-125 gallons I use the same setup without the sump, and on tanks between 55 and 80 gallons I use the same setup minus the sump and FX5, and instead using a CFS500 and small Sunsun combo. I have 2 Fluval 405's that have been in storage for 2 years becasue they are IMO the worst performing filter ever designed.


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## semperfimrn1

i must be the only one that hasn't had a problem with the filter. it has been going strong. no breaks cracks or anything.. (runs to knock on wood)


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## Wasserpest

People who have issues are more inclined to post in these threads, which skews the picture. I bet there are many who run these filters without a hitch, but then, there isn't much reason to report that.


----------



## scapegoat

Wasserpest said:


> People who have issues are more inclined to post in these threads, which skews the picture. I bet there are many who run these filters without a hitch, but then, there isn't much reason to report that.


scapegoat reporting in... cfs 500 is amazing. no issues to report. perfect filter for my 55g. wish there was a cfs 1000 for my 90


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## NJAquaBarren

CWO4GUN, I like to use a Magnum 250 as a polishing filter, but it is so noisy! I'm sure that isn't typical, but I can't find a cause. Almost certainly air trapped and causing a lot of turbulence inside, but i cant find a leak. Since you're a problem solver, ever face that one?

Thanks


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

NJAquaBarren said:


> CWO4GUN, I like to use a Magnum 250 as a polishing filter, but it is so noisy! I'm sure that isn't typical, but I can't find a cause. Almost certainly air trapped and causing a lot of turbulence inside, but i cant find a leak. Since you're a problem solver, ever face that one?
> 
> Thanks


The only reason I maintain highly modified Mag 250's on all my tanks is becasue they make an ideal backup filter and power-head combo to maintain flow, filtration, and O2 levels during a power outage. Because they only use 8-Watts to run, when connected to an emergency UPS (Uninterrupted power supply) or back up small generator can run allot of Mag 250's (8Wx8=56W) compared to just 1 large canister/sump pump that needs 50W. Anyway to answer your question the Mag 250 makes water noise just like the discharge of a sump out-flow, power-head or HOB. These type watery noises don't bother me at all and in fact I find very naturally soothing and for me a major part of the aquarium audible experiences that goes along with the visual experience. The noises I don't tolerate are mechanical noises, humming, growing, chirping like from a worn or improperly cleaned pump impeller. As far as problems with the Mag 250 the only problem I have experienced is operator error when assembled incorrectly (use schematic) or when not filled with enough water before starting (make sure its topped off with water after re-assembly (per instruction), if there is a little air trapped or having difficulty getting re-started, truing the pump On and OFF in 5-second intervals repeatedly, will usually purge out all the excess air, also make sure the can is hanging fairly level not a a big angle by using the adjuster at the bottom. I also found them to clog far too quickly when setup in stock media configuration. I found that by modifying the strainer and using only Blue-bond and Poly-fill for media allows the filter to still clean effectively but last up to 8 weeks before needing to be cleaned. Other then that I have had no problems at all.


----------



## NJAquaBarren

I like the sound of water flowing too. This isnt just that though. Have tried all but the 5 second interval on/off. Will give that a try. I only pop it on once on a while for some extra polishing, could never run it continuously. Good idea for low draw backup.

Thanks


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

NJAquaBarren said:


> I like the sound of water flowing too. This isnt just that though. Have tried all but the 5 second interval on/off. Will give that a try. I only pop it on once on a while for some extra polishing, could never run it continuously. Good idea for low draw backup.
> 
> Thanks


One thing I forgot to mention is that in the beginning I found that trying to change media while the Mag 250 hangs on the back may be a tiny more convenient but after the 2nd media chnage if you don't simply remove the entire canister to clean out the goo and sand particles stuck to the impeller, housing, and tubes, you will have start and noise problems as well. The Mag 250 is so light and easy to remove and hang I found it much easier to just remove the whole filter and gunk-clean the whole thing with hot-water shower sprayer. Even though the Mag 250 size for size volume for volume the most powerful canister/HOB polisher made IMO, Its nutrafying-Bio footprint is insignificant on an aquarium wih a large main canister or sump so killing its Bio and starting sterile each cleaning is insignificant to the tanks BIO-balance. So cleaning out the entire Mag 250 and parts squeaky clean with new media guarantees that the little filter will start easily and be trouble free for the next run. Since I stopped popping the lid on-tank and started removing and cleaning the whole can (just as easy), not only do I not have to deal with spilly media change mess between the tanks and sink but all my 7 Mag 250's work flawlessly and fussy free between media chnages.

PS, with respect to the thread subject. I have no doubt that there are some out there getting CFS500's without issues, and no doubt that the CFS500 can be modified to be awesome high capacity, high performance, high polishing, high endurance circumference canister bargain price filter. But I think its important that I find a easy fix to prevent lid cracks and I think its very doable. But until I come up with a fix (soon) I cant recommend it to new buyers in all fairness. But hay you DIY veterans who made the CFS500 work for you using the easy MODs, know its awesome filtering capability. I personally still have my 2 CFS500's running leak free even though one lid cracked, but before replacing with a new lid I just received last week, Im working a new simple DIY whole-lid support flange that I think will fix the lid-crack problem for good.


----------



## TactusMortus

NJAquaBarren said:


> I like the sound of water flowing too. This isnt just that though. Have tried all but the 5 second interval on/off. Will give that a try. I only pop it on once on a while for some extra polishing, could never run it continuously. Good idea for low draw backup.
> 
> Thanks


I just got my magnum ran it for several days and it was a bit noisy. I then noticed that there was a pinhole in the intake tube literally it was so small I could barely blow air out of it when I blocked both sides of the tube. You could tell it came from the factory like this though. As soon as I plugged that hole it was immediately half as loud just a slight splashing as it is running. I would say look into that if you haven't already.


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## NJAquaBarren

I'm thinking air getting in through the intake somewhere too. The connection seems solid, but I hadn't thought to look for a physical hole. I only run it once in a while with the micron cartridge and have put it away for now. I will check for holes or cracks next time though. Thanks for the tips guys.


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## NJAquaBarren

Looking forward to that lid-crack fix. Been thinking of adding a second filter. I like the idea of a circumference filter and given the price of the cfs500, what better way to do so. Thanks for the continued info C.


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## CWO4GUNNER

NJAquaBarren said:


> Looking forward to that lid-crack fix. Been thinking of adding a second filter. I like the idea of a circumference filter and given the price of the cfs500, what better way to do so. Thanks for the continued info C.


I know Im anxious myself becasue I have the new lid to start the fix on th eone in service that is cracked but not leaking. At the moment im in the middle of 2 big glass (150G & 130G) tank moves by myself from the bedroom to the front great room where I have decided to keep all my tanks so that I can better control and save on ambient cooling and heating in one large room of the house instead of all the bedrooms as well (sealed off) saving energy and money during peak temp seasons. I live alone so I don't mind sleeping with my fish tanks. As soon as I get this move done in the next couple days ill get started on the lid fix.


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## m00se

I use a CFS 500 on a 30 gallon planted tank, and I love it so far. I have the V2 and no problems at all. Maybe we need a pimp club too! LOL


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## NJAquaBarren

How does the v2 differ from v1? I know the cord comes through the lid, but are there any other differences/improvements?


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## CWO4GUNNER

NJAquaBarren said:


> How does the v2 differ from v1? I know the cord comes through the lid, but are there any other differences/improvements?


When I ordered my replacement lid a few weeks ago the vendor tried to talk me into buying the new lid with the cord hole claiming it has no more crack issues. Of course the problem is the hard plastic out flow tubes inside the canister is a different size and so I would have had to fix that plus plug the cord hole. However its something to consider if the lid is truly stronger.

The thing I hate about the V2 design is that they placed the cord through the lid to save money by eliminating the large bulkhead fitting on the side bottom of the canister which would have allowed the use of an external pump just like the FX5 external pump should the internal pump ever fail allowing the use of any generic dry external pump. The cord through lid designed might be using better plastic but its a backward step in technology.


----------



## amp

How's the priming on these? Im thinking of picking one up as a second filter for my porch pond, but since its low to the ground it can be a pain to get the flow into the canister going. I was originally looking at one of the big Jebo's with the priming buttons but for the price/flow rate I may go with this.


----------



## scapegoat

amp said:


> How's the priming on these? Im thinking of picking one up as a second filter for my porch pond, but since its low to the ground it can be a pain to get the flow into the canister going. I was originally looking at one of the big Jebo's with the priming buttons but for the price/flow rate I may go with this.


there is no button or anything to prime the filter. just fill it manually with tank water, connect everything and plug it in.


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## CWO4GUNNER

amp said:


> How's the priming on these? Im thinking of picking one up as a second filter for my porch pond, but since its low to the ground it can be a pain to get the flow into the canister going. I was originally looking at one of the big Jebo's with the priming buttons but for the price/flow rate I may go with this.


Remember besides stacked filter basket design ( Jebo, Ehiem, Flu 405, Sunsun) being far inferior to circumference filter design (FX5, CFS500, pool and most industrial filters), the top lid motor design of stacked basket filters is also a huge weakness as the pump must use the low pressure side of the pump (suck-pumping) to move water which causes all those inharent priming problems and very weak head pressure. Whereas circumference canister filters always have there pumps submerged at the bottom of the canister push-pumping the water out of the canister just like 99% of all industrial application pumps.


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## sns26

CWO4GUNNER said:


> Remember besides stacked filter basket design ( Jebo, Ehiem, Flu 405, Sunsun) being far inferior to circumference filter design (FX5, CFS500, pool and most industrial filters), the top lid motor design of stacked basket filters is also a huge weakness as the pump must use the low pressure side of the pump (suck-pumping) to move water which causes all those inharent priming problems and very weak head pressure. Whereas circumference canister filters always have there pumps submerged at the bottom of the canister push-pumping the water out of the canister just like 99% of all industrial application pumps.


This doesn't make much sense to me. Yes, a bottom-pump design gains some input head by being at the bottom of the canister as opposed to the top. But it then has to generate an increased output head in order to get the water back up that same distance. I don't see how pump position makes a difference. And the pump design on the odyssea--a magnetically driven impeller--is the same as the design on every other consumer canister I've seen. 

I do agree that the priming problems are eliminated with the bottom pump design. On the other hand, the top-pump design is much better at purging air from the canister. My Odyssea gurgles for a while until the trapped air is dissolved.

I certainly could be wrong about all of this.


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## Wasserpest

Agree with you... I also think the position of the pump doesn't change the head pressure situation at all. Different story for open systems like sumps, but canister filters are closed loops, and head pressure doesn't really apply. 

To prime the canister in your pond situation, I would try to fill it as much as possible (fill up through inlet), and make sure the hoses are filled and submerged in the pond before you connect them. Basically anything to minimize air in the system. Any remaining bubbles should be purged after a while.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Back to a more simpler subject I managed to make time today to DIY the lid support flange I had been speaking about using 7/16" plywood, a drill, drill hole-saw, and a small jig-saw. Taking me all of about 20 minutes to make. The end result worked much better then I expected sine I only needed to barely tighten the nuts and it was leak free right from the start, no extra tightening here-and-there which is a good sign I think. Since the plywood was almost 1/2" thick I had to pop the nuts out of the orange plastic nobs to make more room for the threads, later I will pickup some more wing-nuts to make for easier lid removal. 

This new lid was black in color and surprisingly the O-rings were the correct size this time. Let me add that my other CFS500 who's lid cracked 6 months ago was also replaced and that new replacement lid has not cracked yet even with regular mounting. So I suppose this new style wood flange I made today is a precaution in the hopes of eliminating lid stress cracks altogether as seen in one photo below. Hope this post helps. Now at least the entire lid shares in the load of pressing the O-rings not just the edges of the canister which caused the cracks.


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## chrisnif

Gunner - First of all THANKS for your sevice. I know you've been out for a while, but still from a short term service member to a "lifer" congrats.

I'm wondering if this filter is going to be too much flow in a 65 gallon (36x18") tank fully planted. I have an idea to lower the flow by adding a cross pipe between the input and output hoses and adding a flow control valve on the output side after the crossover. This way if the flow control is turned down to say 20% output the other 80% will go through the crossover and back into the filter - thus reducing stress on the valve, hoses, and pump of running at 20% flow. (20% flow just an example, I'd probably run it at 60-75% flow depending on how my fish are doing with the flow).

Thanks again for your review


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## CWO4GUNNER

Thanks for the kind words, but to be honest everything I was accredited for accomplishing was all due to JC, as anyone could attest that at age 17 I was truly considered the least likely to succeed at anything in life, a real looser until then. 

Back to topic I think you should keep the Magnum 350 circumference filter. My modified Mag 350 works awesome and although I also have a working Sunsun 302 as an AUX filter being a stacked basket filter comes nowhere close to the performance of a Mag 350 IMO. Im afraid I can speak intelligibly about the use of the CFS500 on a planted tank as all my plants are outside the tank excepts for the roots, but I can say that I have heard of allot of folks piping down the pressure using multiple outlets, drain holes, and diffusers successfully even with the FX5. Where there if faith there is a way.:thumbsup:


----------



## farrenator

Good work! So I suppose then that the lid is not domed at all? I thought I had read somewhere in this thread that the lid was domed so you couldn't make a lid flange as you did. Obviously you have proved that wrong, or you are squishing the domed part. Either way, I hope it works out in the long term because I want to pick up one of those filters......I just don't want to deal with a royal piece of poop if I can avoid it. The flange looks easy enough to build so if it works, it works!


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## CWO4GUNNER

farrenator said:


> Good work! So I suppose then that the lid is not domed at all? I thought I had read somewhere in this thread that the lid was domed so you couldn't make a lid flange as you did.


 I guess I left that part out as I was the one who said the lid appeared to be domed and would pose a problem. No one was happier then I to find out I was wrong and that the lid dome is so slight it actually is insignificant and helps in even distribution of load on the cover. Like I stated all that was needed was a sharp pencil to trace out the lid perimeter, notches, and holes onto the 7/16" plywood then use a jig-saw to cut out the trace and a door-knob hole saw drill attached to a drill gun to cut the holes for the in-let and out-let. These are very basic and cheap tools that most people have on hand or can be borrowed from a neighbor. 

I suppose the best part is with this simple and cheap fix no more repeated and over tightening is necessary to prevent leaks and the peace of mind that the lid is solidly secured. Especially in my case where all my canisters are on 30 minute ON/OFF timers and the lids go through high and low pressure stress each time the timers cycle ON/OFF 48 times a day cutting energy in half and increasing impeller/motor life by 100% all without impacting filter performance or tank cleanliness. In fact 30 minute rest periods without filter turbulence give both fish and bacteria a brake resulting in a much healthier fish tank IMO.


----------



## OverStocked

UPDATE: 
I'm going to scrap my Odyssea for a FX5. I will still stand by recommending SunSun filters day and night. But I'm done with this pos. 
Three days ago after cleaning, no apparent leaks. Left and came home to about 8 gallons of water in my carpet. Took hours of trouble shooting to fix. In process I snapped off one of the intake ports. It is superglued in place, sitting in a 10 gallon tub. Waiting for my fx5 to come in and then I will be done with this thing. 

I love the price, but at this point it isn't worth the risk. A filter shouldn't be this much work and I don't care anymore. I've not been impressed iwth water clarity, anyways. It lasted a year, so that is great. But it was almost to the day a year later that it failed in several ways. Having to drain my tank down, move my stand, use the rug doctor to dry up carpet, run fans and dehumidifier for 12 hours and then move it all back is not my idea of fun. 

I won't even give this filter to someone for free at this point. It is going to be trashed.


----------



## OverStocked

CWO4GUNNER said:


> I suppose the best part is with this simple and cheap fix no more repeated and over tightening is necessary to prevent leaks and the peace of mind that the lid is solidly secured. Especially in my case where all my canisters are on 30 minute ON/OFF timers and the lids go through high and low pressure stress each time the timers cycle ON/OFF 48 times a day cutting energy in half and increasing impeller/motor life by 100% all without impacting filter performance or tank cleanliness. In fact 30 minute rest periods without filter turbulence give both fish and bacteria a brake resulting in a much healthier fish tank IMO.


I think this is pretty far fetched on several fronts. 1st, starting and stopping the motor is likely harder on it than anything else. Once it is up to speed it is just maintaining. IF you stop it and make it get up to speed, you are stressing it EVERY single time. 

Second, I don't for a second think that bacteria "need a rest" and in fact, research indicates that nitrosoma begin to die with even a short time of no food. 

Third, Stopping flow would mean stopping surface ripple in my tanks. THis would greatly decrease gas exchange and thus reduce oxygen in the tank. This isn't good for fish in any way. The flow is normal for them and they appreciate it. If you have too much flow, perhaps a spray bar or more outlets(or proper sized filter) is the answer. 

Fourth, my guess is that this is just asking to shorten the life of a filter with the change in pressures constantly. Never in any setup from home to commercial have I ever heard of someone suggesting that starting and stopping it all day long is going to be beneficial.


----------



## CWO4GUNNER

OverStocked said:


> stopping the motor is likely harder on it than anything else. IF you stop it and make it get up to speed, you are stressing it EVERY single time. research indicates that nitrosoma begin to die with even a short time of no food. Stopping flow would mean greatly decrease gas exchange and thus reduce oxygen in the tank.


 Your points although somewhat valid for much longer duration's don't apply to just 30 minute intervals, which is very short span and mimics the way nature cycles as almost all organisms need a rest period. mechanically its already been proven that cycling just like in refrigeration helps extend motor and pump life. Besides I have been actually doing this for 2 years now and can attest that it actually works, no armchair commentary here.

I also had a 15 gallon leak 6 months ago with the CFS500 and without jumping to blame decide to find the cause and solution the result for your benefit is posted above. Also be careful forcing those plastic gate-valves to open or shut in a fit because they will just as easily brake on the FX5 when not worked slowly after being on or off for extended periods. Patience and an objective outlook works wonders when dealing with mechanical or biotechnological.roud:

Having pointed all that out, Im glad to hear your not giving up on circumference filter design and investing in an FX5. I look forward to your review on the FX5 as well as I have allot to share in the way of modifications that make the FX5 a very effective polisher as well. v/r Gunner G.


----------



## OverStocked

CWO4GUNNER said:


> I also had a 15 gallon leak 6 months ago with the CFS500 and without jumping to blame decide to find the cause and solution the result for your benefit is posted above. Also be careful forcing those plastic gate-valves to open or shut in a fit because they will just as easily brake on the FX5 when not worked slowly after being on or off for extended periods. Patience and an objective outlook works wonders when dealing with mechanical or biotechnological.roud:
> 
> Having pointed all that out, Im glad to hear your not giving up on circumference filter design and investing in an FX5. I look forward to your review on the FX5 as well as I have allot to share in the way of modifications that make the FX5 a very effective polisher as well. v/r Gunner G.


"Jumping to blame"? Who else am I supposed to blame? The tooth fairy? The flying monkeys? I am not interested in paying for something I have to fix to make it do its basic job, only to risk breakage. 

I'm not talking about the on/off breaking. I am talking about the quick disconnect stem stapping clean off. And Basically no force was involved. I had an objective outlook. I bought the filter before anyone else, and gave a review before anyone else. 

It is a piece of crap. There was no "closing in a fit". I was just trying to use it as "designed" and it broke. Then It leaked enough water to cause mold and mildew under my stand. I'll pass. 

If you want to take the time and effort to re-engineer something, go for it. But getting touchy about other people pointing it out for what it is isn't acceptable to me. Just because everyone doesn't want to buy a filter and then spend a bajillion hours tinkering with it, only to hope it doesn't fail(and you can't say it is anything more than hope at this point), doesn't mean they are crazy. 

After reading a few hundred reviews of the fx5 I can't find any examples of particular patterns in breakages. However in less than 20 individual reviews of the cfs500 I'm finding at least 10 examples of problems with leaks and cracking.


----------



## aman74

OverStocked said:


> UPDATE:
> I'm going to scrap my Odyssea for a FX5. I will still stand by recommending SunSun filters day and night. But I'm done with this pos.


Confused.

You're saying it's of poor quality, but standing by recommending them?



CWO4GUNNER said:


> I also had a 15 gallon leak 6 months ago with the CFS500 and without jumping to blame decide to find the cause and solution the result for your benefit is posted above.


Which post is this on? Not sure what leaked, your tank or the filter? Sorry if I missed it.



OverStocked said:


> "Jumping to blame"? Who else am I supposed to blame? The tooth fairy? The flying monkeys?
> 
> But getting touchy about other people pointing it out for what it is isn't acceptable to me.


Hmm...he didn't say you jumped to blame. He said what he did in his situation.

I don't see anything touchy about his posts, but definitely get that vibe from yours. There's often disagreements in life, but I see nothing wrong with that when it's presented in a plain and descriptive manner.


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## CWO4GUNNER

Well yes if you missed the fix for broken stems by using the right size O-rings back in 2010 then that was the cause. Youll be glad to know that they have switched to the right size now and are apparently using better plastic in the lids. So the research and development was not lost inn my review as it caused enough conversation to get these changes made. Im surprised you didn't get a free lid replacement or at least I deep discount I know most people did and now have a good working filter. Before tossing you might want to consider trying the new lids, I know one vendor who guarantees they are better made now and I know the last replacement I bought for $12 has had no problems since. 

Anyway I only have about an extra $20 extra tied up in mods between two CFS500's and frankly I found the learning experience priceless as there are no real problems in life, only solutions. In the future to prevent minor spill fungus its best to get the water up immediately with a good wet vacuum and use box fans to dry the area in about 24 hours, as fungus usually takes about a week of wetness before starting.

OK then please post how the FX5 works out and remember the valve parts are interchangeable with the CFS500 apparently made by the same company. Should you decide to invest $12 to get it up and running with a better lid and use my flange mod for insurance, remember be easy turning those valve.:hihi:


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## OverStocked

aman74 said:


> Confused.
> 
> You're saying it's of poor quality, but standing by recommending them?
> 
> 
> 
> Which post is this on? Not sure what leaked, your tank or the filter? Sorry if I missed it.
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm...he didn't say you jumped to blame. He said what he did in his situation.
> 
> I don't see anything touchy about his posts, but definitely get that vibe from yours. There's often disagreements in life, but I see nothing wrong with that when it's presented in a plain and descriptive manner.


I said I would recommend SUNSUN, not Odyssea.


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## OverStocked

CWO4GUNNER said:


> Well yes if you missed the fix for broken stems by using the right size O-rings back in 2010 then that was the cause. Youll be glad to know that they have switched to the right size now and are apparently using better plastic in the lids. So the research and development was not lost inn my review as it caused enough conversation to get these changes made. Im surprised you didn't get a free lid replacement or at least I deep discount I know most people did and now have a good working filter. Before tossing you might want to consider trying the new lids, I know one vendor who guarantees they are better made now and I know the last replacement I bought for $12 has had no problems since.
> 
> Anyway I only have about an extra $20 extra tied up in mods between two CFS500's and frankly I found the learning experience priceless as there are no real problems in life, only solutions. In the future to prevent minor spill fungus its best to get the water up immediately with a good wet vacuum and use box fans to dry the area in about 24 hours, as fungus usually takes about a week of wetness before starting.
> 
> OK then please post how the FX5 works out and remember the valve parts are interchangeable with the CFS500 apparently made by the same company. Should you decide to invest $12 to get it up and running with a better lid and use my flange mod for insurance, remember be easy turning those valve.:hihi:


I replaced the orings in October of 2010. That isn't the problem here. To replace the lid they expected me to send this one back, first. Not an option for me, as it was the only filter on this tank. 

I did vacuum up the water, used fans and a dehumidifier. It was dry to the touch. The on/offs are not broken and never have for me. 

Comparing them side by side to a friends fx5 valves, they are definitely thinner and lower quality.


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## CWO4GUNNER

aman74 said:


> Which post is this on? Not sure what leaked, your tank or the filter? Sorry if I missed it.


You know I was mistaken, the spill that happened was caused by an earlier lid mod that did not work when I used 3/8" hard neoprene as cushions under the orange plastic nob-nuts to try and prevent pressure points and therefor cracks. The hard neoprene compressed and allowed the lid to become loose in about 12 hours (middles of the night) and that is what caused my spill, not cracks or rough handling of the valve stems. If I find the old post warning Ill re-post it. :icon_smil


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## aman74

OverStocked said:


> I said I would recommend SUNSUN, not Odyssea.


Ahh, my mistake. I had been thinking of them as one in the same and forgot this larger model was the Odyssea, despite it being in the OP


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## CWO4GUNNER

OverStocked said:


> Comparing them side by side to a friends fx5 valves, they are definitely thinner and lower quality.


 I own six FX5's and they are definitively top notch but only twice as powerful as the CFS500 at 5 times the price. If the CFS500 was otherwise doing the job, I would seriously reconsider investing in $12 for the new lid before spending $250 on an FX5 if you don't absolutely need it with this economy. I know if I expand Ill be using combinations of CFS500 to fill that gap now that the issues have all been resolved. If your buying the FX5 simply as a equipment replacement with no need for added performance, Id seriously think about the cost to need value more, just a recommendation :icon_idea


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## nalu86

the cfs500 is an excellent filter, if you are careful with it it won't break. I have this filter for year an a half and it still works perfect. To bad I didn't replace the O rings, because I broke it there. I was in a hurry... 

If I would have the money, I would use FX5s 

and all those mods... I think they are stupid for people who have to much time on hands. 

bought a cfs 700 couple weeks back from (an online company) , arrived in the mail and was broken (uv glas pipe), send couple of e mails and called without answers and never received a mail back. Does anybody know if you can cut the UV sterilizer cord and leave it in contact with water? it has an on/off switch for the sterilizer. Or anybody who ever removed the wires?


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## CWO4GUNNER

nalu86 said:


> Does anybody know if you can cut the UV sterilizer cord and leave it in contact with water? it has an on/off switch for the sterilizer. Or anybody who ever removed the wires?


Sounds like a doable electric mod :icon_eek:. Whether or not its smart or stupid is a matter that will have to be tested between you and the ground wire, whether or not you have too much time on your hands to get-R-done is another question only you can answer lol. :smile:
All kidding aside, as an electrician if you can separate the supply circuit to the UV and waterproof-insulate any cut or open wiring it should not be a problem. But when it comes to electrical repairs or modifications you either know exactly what you 
are doing and why, or your placing this life at risk prematurely. If your not absolutely confident better have an electrician fix it especially if you and yours will be testing the live circuit with water involved using your bodies, which would really be stupid. Too bad you did not take extra time on your hands to use an eBay vendor and get auto buyer protection, you would have been guaranteed a replacement or money back by now.


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## nalu86

CWO4GUNNER said:


> Sounds like a doable electric mod :icon_eek:. Whether or not its smart or stupid is a matter that will have to be tested between you and the ground wire, whether or not you have too much time on your hands to get-R-done is another question only you can answer lol. :smile:
> All kidding aside, as an electrician if you can separate the supply circuit to the UV and waterproof-insulate any cut or open wiring it should not be a problem. But when it comes to electrical repairs or modifications you either know exactly what you
> are doing and why, or your placing this life at risk prematurely. If your not absolutely confident better have an electrician fix it especially if you and yours will be testing the live circuit with water involved using your bodies, which would really be stupid. Too bad you did not take extra time on your hands to use an eBay vendor and get auto buyer protection, you would have been guaranteed a replacement or money back by now.


No prob about the money (bank fixed everything  ) When you pay with CC or DC you are also protected. 

I know, I talked about to much time, but now I want to mod the filter myself... lol. But, if I don't mod the filter, it is for the trash...  and I always can use an extra filter. 

I think I can cut the wire from outside the filter, but will have to use a multimeter and a solder Iron, for when I cut the wrong cord.


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## Gold8165

OverStocked said:


> UPDATE:
> I'm going to scrap my Odyssea for a FX5. I will still stand by recommending SunSun filters day and night. But I'm done with this pos.
> Three days ago after cleaning, no apparent leaks. Left and came home to about 8 gallons of water in my carpet. Took hours of trouble shooting to fix. In process I snapped off one of the intake ports. It is superglued in place, sitting in a 10 gallon tub. Waiting for my fx5 to come in and then I will be done with this thing.
> 
> I love the price, but at this point it isn't worth the risk. A filter shouldn't be this much work and I don't care anymore. I've not been impressed iwth water clarity, anyways. It lasted a year, so that is great. But it was almost to the day a year later that it failed in several ways. Having to drain my tank down, move my stand, use the rug doctor to dry up carpet, run fans and dehumidifier for 12 hours and then move it all back is not my idea of fun.
> 
> I won't even give this filter to someone for free at this point. It is going to be trashed.



OverStocked was it a lid failure?


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## CWO4GUNNER

Overstock, Id be more then willing to even trade my new in box never used/new sunsun 302W (3 basket no UV) for your lid busted but otherwise working perfectly CFS500 with all the other parts working. Send me that CFS500 and Ill send you my other new in box sunsun, even trade Im serious PM me.


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## OverStocked

Got my FX5 today. Comparing quality from 1 to another is like comparing a ford fiesta to a Hummer H1. 

The "quick disconnects" might be interchangeable, but the thickness and ease of use of the fx5 are much superior. The lid... I'm never worried about it warping. 

It is also easily 2x the size, possible closer to 3x volume. Flow isn't comparable. 

Sure, the Odyssea is cheap, but I got exactly what I paid for. Had I just bought the fx5 the first time around I'd have been on my way to a second. 

I feel silly for having even tempted fate on the odyssea now.


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## Wasserpest

OverStocked said:


> I feel silly for having even tempted fate on the odyssea now.


Really? You are comparing a $58 canister filter to a $250 canister filter, right?

I understand your frustrations due to the leak, but perhaps your expectation was a bit high?

Besides the cracking lid issue, I am still thrilled with this cheap, silent, and powerful filter. Comparing it to the FX5 isn't fair, they are totally different beasts. I mean you wouldn't put a FX5 on a 55gal tank, unless you wanted it to be a river biotope. 

I am comparing the CFS to the XP3 that it replaced, and I have to say, it fares well. At half the price, higher flow, longer maintenance intervals, and silent operation, I take the quirky cover and do some hardcore DIY. :hihi:

Agreed this isn't for everyone, just as a Fiesta is a better choice than a Hummer for some of us. :wink:


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## CWO4GUNNER

I own both and the FX5 is what it is, a much larger capacity filter then the CFS500, yet no more capable then the CFS500 to its relative capacity and application. My FX5 on anything smaller then 150 gallons is actually not cost and improperly matched and underutilized IMO also a bit of a waste. The CFS500 is every bit as capable as my FX5 relative to proper application matching on tanks 100 gallons and below. The greater benefit of the CFS500 being that it is easier to maneuver, easier to fit, and with my modifications easier to clean and relatively more efficient at cleaning due to no bypass Poly-Blanket polishing modifications made. The FX5 although very efficient has to contend with some bypass due to its segmented baskets (Achilles heel). The FX5 however has a more robust lid and connectors that allow rougher handling. The CFS500 lid issues have apparently been resolved in the newer model and otherwise resolved and beats the FX5 in relative cost to performance ratio since 2 CFS500 can do the job of 1 FX5 at 1/4th the cost making the CFS500 the better economic choice, and because the CFS500 is more flexible with a variety of tank sizes and applications make it is the better choice. As I look ahead at harder economic times I think its much wiser to buy 1 CFS500 for $65 and keep almost $200 in the bank for the price of 1 FX5, especially if you dont really need it.


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## m00se

It's sad that this filter had "new to market" problems like this. It really is a great filter for the money, and although I have TAS (Tank Acquisition Syndrome) at the moment and want an FX5 for my new setup, I have no qualms with the CFS500 Vs. 2 <--- Vs. 2 being the key here. 

The valves on mine are still too tight and I fear I'll break them during maintenance, even after greasing them up liberally and working them till the palms of my hands ached when I first got it. I know this is a weakness and I use extra diligence and treat them gingerly.

I still have some planning to do on my new tank, so I don't know if I'll follow through with the FX5 or get another CFS500. I want to plumb the CO2 reactor and a chiller into the returns if I get the FX5. Or I could use an additional CFS500 in it's own loop for these functions instead.

In any case, the filter is relatively new to market, and early adopters are going to get the hit when things go south. I'm pretty sure this is true of just about any product, including the stalwart filters who shall go unnamed :tongue:


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## CWO4GUNNER

m00se said:


> It's sad that this filter had "new to market" problems like this. It really is a great filter for the money, and although I have TAS (Tank Acquisition Syndrome) at the moment and want an FX5 for my new setup, I have no qualms with the CFS500 Vs. 2 <--- Vs. 2 being the key here.
> 
> The valves on mine are still too tight and I fear I'll break them during maintenance, even after greasing them up liberally and working them till the palms of my hands ached when I first got it. I know this is a weakness and I use extra diligence and treat them gingerly.
> 
> I still have some planning to do on my new tank, so I don't know if I'll follow through with the FX5 or get another CFS500. I want to plumb the CO2 reactor and a chiller into the returns if I get the FX5. Or I could use an additional CFS500 in it's own loop for these functions instead.
> 
> In any case, the filter is relatively new to market, and early adopters are going to get the hit when things go south. I'm pretty sure this is true of just about any product, including the stalwart filters who shall go unnamed :tongue:


Goodness, why not replace the O-rings with one of two sources I provided, the cost is less then $3 and the difference is like night and day with no report of leaks from using the new smaller (same size as FX5) O-rings. 

*** Again anyone who wants out of there CFS500 lid issues, I will trade you a brand new Sunsun 302W with 3 basket still in the box, just send me the lid busted canister and ill send you the new working Sunsun that has been sitting in storage for a year.

*


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## Wasserpest

FYI, the lid on my V1 also started cracking after 10 months of use. I went ahead and bought a replacement lid for $17 shipped, which seems to be stronger (heavier) and made out of different plastic. I haven't installed it yet, but I bet it will resolve the cracking issue, and perhaps be a bit stiffer and reduce some of the dripping when the filter is assembled after maintenance.

So, $58 + $17 = $75. Still a good deal if you can handle the quirks. Mine is sitting in a salad bowl with a moisture alarm, just in case.


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## Naekuh

OverStocked said:


> I feel silly for having even tempted fate on the odyssea now.


lulz!

u should of seen me in the peak of watercooling reviews.

many many many times id be sitting there with a big puddle going WHY?

and keep note... my puddles arent on carpet... there typically over 500 dollar video cards ;P 

So yeah... i kept thinking WHY did i have to touch it.... 

But some people need to learn the hardway.. hell i always need to learn the hardway... 

and Overstock, i bet you... should u see another "deal" type innovation to this field, your going to take ANOTHER gamble and try it out again, as long as it doesnt kill your wallet like the CADE. :help:


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## Floyd_Crook

I received the version 2 of the Odyssea CFS 500 with the power cord coming out the lid - I also got the very light weight black ribbed hoses instead of the 1 inch I.D. green vinyl hoses. As you mod states the ends of the output/input tubes can be cut off and o-rings removed if using the vinyl hose(1" inner diameter??). Would/should I leave the o-rings on if I use the ribbed hoses (like the fx5 hoses) or would I be better off to buy 1" inner diameter hose (black vs. clear?). I'm doing the mod and have everything but want to know what type of poly batting? I bid on some traditional 100% polyester batting. Would also like more detail regarding how/why (how to cut and where to place, etc.) to mod the blue pad and why the batting in the middle after splitting it in two.


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## spaeth05

I wanted to thank everyone for their input on this filter. I've been running this filter for quite a while (probably about a year) and immediately switched to the recommended (smaller) o-rings. I'm sad to report that yesterday the smaller o-rings failed and caused a fairly major leak. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this or not. It was definitely the o-rings and not the lid as I performed several "wipes" to see where the leak was coming from before I started the inevitable cleanup. I'm wondering if I should switch back to the bigger o-rings or just throw in the towel (no pun intended). It was certainly effective for the time I used it but now I'm a little nervous about the prospects of another leak.


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## sundragon

Quick question - The hose size for the CFS500 is 1"ID - I've seen 7/8" so want to verify.


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## Wasserpest

spaeth05 said:


> I wanted to thank everyone for their input on this filter. I've been running this filter for quite a while (probably about a year) and immediately switched to the recommended (smaller) o-rings. I'm sad to report that yesterday the smaller o-rings failed and caused a fairly major leak. I'm not sure if anyone else has experienced this or not. It was definitely the o-rings and not the lid as I performed several "wipes" to see where the leak was coming from before I started the inevitable cleanup. I'm wondering if I should switch back to the bigger o-rings or just throw in the towel (no pun intended). It was certainly effective for the time I used it but now I'm a little nervous about the prospects of another leak.


What do you mean by "o-rings failed"? Did they break somehow? Usually, if o-rings fail to seal completely it starts with some dripping and slow trickling.

My CFS is now running for 4.5 months since I last cleaned it. Probably the longest I have left a filter running without maintenance. Attests that a) it has some great capacity to collect debris and keep running strong and b) I am a bit worried about taking it apart and putting it back together - there is always a period of nervousness due to small leaks. Until now they have subsided after a few hours.

BTW I am running my CFS in a salad bowl, which has a water sensor in it. In case something starts to leak and someone is at home there will be early warning. Haven't needed it yet, but it's a recommended sort of insurance. 



sundragon said:


> Quick question - The hose size for the CFS500 is 1"ID - I've seen 7/8" so want to verify.


Correct, it is 1" ID (like the FX-5, I believe). Keep in mind with some hot water and some push/pull one might well be able to fit a 7/8" hose over the barbs.


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## m00se

I just replaced the hoses with black corrugated pond hose and stainless steel hose clamps. It's 1" I.D. - Pond hose is cheap at Lowes. ~$1 a foot.


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## treym563

Can anyone direct me to where I can purchase the newer, beefed-up cover? I've had multiple leaks even with using all the mods and techniques described in this thread and I'm ready to smash the MF'er in my back yard :angryfire If the cover issue was resolved this would be the greatest filter ever but I just hate having the nagging feeling that this thing could leak at any second, like it's done multiple times to me!!!


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## m00se

TopDogSellers

For pumps with the cord through the side only. The ones with the cord through the top already are the upgraded tops.


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## treym563

I have the old model (cord through the side) so I will check that out, thanks! Also I just saw the new mod for the cover (using a larger piece of plywood rather than just the plywood "ring") so I will be trying that. Hopefully it works, if so I'm buying another one! Keeps my tank awesomely clean, just the extra anxiety makes it not worth it ATM.


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## treym563

I'm having an issue where my aquarium is filled with thousands of tiny bubbles. It makes the water look cloudy and my thinking is that it has to be from this filter; I don't have any other filter/airstone/powerhead running. The filter is running silently and I can't hear any air bubbles in the canister itself. Is this a "water polishing" issue? Can I wrap the upper part of the modified sponge in a couple extra layers of poly without affecting the performance, and will this help at all?


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## Wasserpest

Is it possible that the filter media is dirty? Do you use the "polishing pad" (which clogs up quickly)? Do you have great plant growth, add ferts and CO2? Is your tank clear in the mornings and starts to get bubbly in the afternoons?


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## treym563

I use the same sponge that Gunner used in his modification. I recently cleaned it but apparently I didn't do a very good job cause I just re-cleaned it last night and a lot of brown crap came out of the sponge part. The bubbles are a lot better now that I did that, but the water still isn't perfectly clear (I'm kinda OCD about this). I think maybe I need to clean my tubing since I can see some brown buildup in them (they are clear material). I have good plant growth with my anubias but I only have 3 of them in my 55 (Mbuna cichlid tank) and I don't use any co2 or ferts.

edit: I do use the top blue pad, if that's what you mean by the polishing pad. The bubbles are a constant occurrence, not particular to any time of day.


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## CWO4GUNNER

As replacement sponges I use the large low cost ($2) kidney shaped household tan sponges. One large sponge can be cut in half to make 2 stackable round portions, the bottom portion hollowed out to accommodate the pump. They are also just the right size in that they don't need to be trimmed to fit or be wrapped outside with media blacked for polishing (best way).


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## coquipr

CWO4GUNNER said:


> When I ordered my replacement lid a few weeks ago the vendor tried to talk me into buying the new lid with the cord hole claiming it has no more crack issues. Of course the problem is the hard plastic out flow tubes inside the canister is a different size and so I would have had to fix that plus plug the cord hole. However its something to consider if the lid is truly stronger.
> 
> The thing I hate about the V2 design is that they placed the cord through the lid to save money by eliminating the large bulkhead fitting on the side bottom of the canister which would have allowed the use of an external pump just like the FX5 external pump should the internal pump ever fail allowing the use of any generic dry external pump. The cord through lid designed might be using better plastic but its a backward step in technology.


i know this thread is a bit old .im about to pull the plug and buy 2 of this filters. CWO4GUNNER what is that vendor i see you mention has the version 2 ones? is that the one mention before about lid replacement topdog or something at ebay?


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## m00se

The replacement pump for the CFS500 is only $25 so I don't understand the problem, frankly. I've not heard of anyone having trouble with the pumps in these things. The downtube is fragile because you can easily manipulate the pump the wrong way and use it as a handle and break it right off, or over-tighten it. Other than that I can't find much wrong with this filter, if you can consider those details "wrong". The mods that CWO4GUNNER has illustrated make it a pretty darned good filter *for the money*, and although I don't currently use mine, I wouldn't hesitate recommending it. And yes, topdogsellers is the retailer for them. They're pretty good to deal with in my experience.


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