# How can one Reduce or Diffuse a Fluval 304's output stream?



## Spar (Aug 7, 2003)

my 304 had a lever you pull down to slow the water-flow speed. it is the same lever that you pull down to stop the flow completely (i.e. for when you are taking off the piping to clean the filter).

my 104 has the same thing, so I figure it is universal.

there are little lines next to the lever that indicate what % flow you are at.

try it out. if you don't see what I mean, let me know and I will take a picture of mine and circle the thing.


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## bigstick120 (May 23, 2005)

Spar said:


> my 304 had a lever you pull down to slow the water-flow speed. it is the same lever that you pull down to stop the flow completely (i.e. for when you are taking off the piping to clean the filter).
> 
> my 104 has the same thing, so I figure it is universal.
> 
> ...



on the 304 its a lever that you lift up to slow the flow.


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## aquaphish (Dec 20, 2002)

You can use the lever to adjust the flow. But what I did was to get rid of the outlet spout that comes with the filter and get a spraybar and piece of plastic tube some 90° elbows and a small piece of hose.

Using this set up you don't need to slow down the flow, you can run your filter full bore!!! And you will not have any "Storm Effect" in your tank. There is some things you need to do to the spraybar before you use it though.

First of all get the plastic tube extension and attach it to the in hose where the spout would go. Mark and cut it so the extension is a few inches above the substrate. Next attach a small piece of the hose to the extension. Then attach a 90° elbow to the hose. Next add another piece of hose to the other end of the elbow. Now you have an extension ready to attach the spraybar to.

Before attaching the spraybar you will want to make the holes just a little larger. Drill them out with a drill that is just 1/16th inch larger than the original holes. You will also want to add another set of holes approx 45° from the original set of holes. 

This modification to the spraybar will not decrease the flow but will decrease the force the water flows out of the spraybar holes. With the new set of holes and larger holes the flow will be much more to what you want. Also by placing the sparybar close to the substrate it will prevent the surface from being agitated preventing the release of CO2 from the water column. And it will also be easy to hide with plants driftwood or what ever.

Hope this will help you!!! It really works well!!


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## Hydro (Jun 23, 2004)

If you plan to use the built-in lever on the 304 to reduce flow, the instructions recommend not to reduce the flow by more than half.

I have a 304 in a 20g and built a spraybar running the length of the tank, pretty much exactly how aquaphish has described it. I only a one row of holes though and have the spraybar near the bottom of the tank, with the holes aiming about 45 degrees up towards the back glass. It's been working quite well running at full speed.


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## TommyBoy (Jan 7, 2005)

*Thank you all*

To Spar, BigStick120 & Hydro: Thanks for helping me find something already there. I had such "duh! Tommy Boy!!" when I saw the lines on the lever. And BTW Hydro, great advice (no more than 1/2 way), but what page is that on in the instructions? I've still not found it mentioned there. Yes, I know I'm asking for another "duh! Tommy Boy!!" 

And aquaphish, great advice on drilling out the holes just a bit larger on the spraybar. I just finished adding it and it seems to work well with your & Hydro's ideas.

As an FYI, I was also advised by another separately that an inline external CO2 reactor, and replacing the AC (activated carbon) with bags of polyfil further reduce the "head pressure"/nossle effect that comes out of the normal outlet.

Again...Thank each of ya!
--TommyBoy


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## Hydro (Jun 23, 2004)

Hi Tommy, I don't have the manual any more so I don't know what page it's on (my 304 is almost 2 years old) but here's a link to it online.

http://www.hagen.com/pdf/aquatic/Fluval_Manual_082002.pdf

Search for the word "caution" and you'll find it in the "Starting your filter" section.


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## TommyBoy (Jan 7, 2005)

*The "Footnote" to the story...*

Ever come across a story that taught you one lesson throughout it, and then ended with a punchline that negated the whole rest of the lesson/story? I am not sure if this is what's happening with this Fluval and its stream of water "issue" in my tank, but here's the latest development. 

As stated in my last post, I added the spraybar with drilled-out holes and everything seemed to be great before I went to bed [NOTE: I have NOT reduced the flow using the Aqua-Stop Bar.]. This morning I awoke to find most all my fish at the top of the water column. After the lights were on for an hour, they were still there soOo... I turned the holes towards the open waters of the tank, and added an air pump and stone blowing bubbles in to the stream of the spraybar flow. Then I headed off to work. Within an hour, I am told they all began swimming back in the lower layers. 

I unlpugged the air pump this evening when I came home, and my fish returned to the surface (along with the shrimp, or at least noticed this time). I am peat filtering and replaced the AC yesterday with bags of polyfil (IAW advice I got via PM). pH is still a bit higher (7.1) than I want it (5.5-6), but all other tested water parameters (Ammonia, Nitirites, Nitrates, KH, GH) are pristine/just where I want them. My tank is 24Lx18Wx20H inches. So for now I am leaving it bubbling overnight.

Anyone else had to aereate their tank after reducing the surface disturbance? 

Will this need to be a permanent addition? If so, is does anyone have any preferences/anectoes/scientific data about air delivery (e.g., pros/cons, trade-offs, shapes/size of stones, etc.) into a planted tank?

TIA,
--TommyBoy


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## aquaphish (Dec 20, 2002)

Humm??!!? :icon_conf 

These symtoms can mean many things. Imbalance in the water including excess CO2. To even high temp. If your water is balanced what is the temp of the water?

If adding an airstone helps then maybe if you lift the spraybar to the top so you get better aeration might help. Just trying to help without the need of addition of equipment. But by adding agitation to your water surface this might speed the removal of CO2. 

This goes back to a balanced tank. I consider a tank to be balanced when all is running fine and the water parameters are where they need to be to reduce algae and improve growth of plants. And having the other occupants, the fish shrimp and all to be healthy and happy. Even if "all water parameters" are at the correct levels, plants growing no algae growing there is still an imbalance if the fish and shrimp are not doing well. 

On the other hand you are at the edge of a well balanced tank if you do have the water parameters set, just need a little tweeking to be in great shape, and able to enjoy the aquascape you have planned.

Recheck the parameters and maintain a good water change schedule. And the best thing I read is that you are getting rid of the AC, a good killer of a balanced tank. It strips out some ferts and metals from the water that a balanced tank needs.


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