# plants going from submerged to emersed?



## pandamonium (May 14, 2012)

Hey everyone,

I have heard of people growing their plants emersed and then slowly converting to submerged. Is it possible to do this the other way around? I want to set up a emersed tank at school to grow plants and was thinking about bringing some of my plants to school with me to do that from my tank here at home. They are submerged here. Is this possible? 

And with emersed plants, is growth difficult or hard to maintain?


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## skinyron (Apr 1, 2012)

absolutely possible i do it all the time with my hc and glosso just keep in mind that it will take a few days to adapt to the new growing environment. i use a seed tray with a plastic lid it helps keep the humidity high. good luck

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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi pandamonium,

Yes, many (but not all) plants that are growing submerged can be converted to emersed growth. Here is an excellent database of plant species that indicates if they can be grown emersed or not. The trick is to maintain very high humidity so when the plant is removed from the tank it doesn't go into shock from excessive water loss from transpiration. Plant leaves have a cuticle layer which helps them regulate their transpiration. When plants are growing in the water the cuticle layer of the leaf is very thin because there is no need for to regulate transpiration. When that same plant is growing emersed the leaf needs a thicker cuticle to regulate water loss. The lower the humidity of the environment the thicker the cuticle needs to be or the plant goes into shock and dies.

I am able to move plants fairly easily from submerged to emersed and back to submerged. The trick is to keep the cuticle layer thin by growing the emersed plants in a high humidity environment.  Here is a thread about how I maintain several species growing emersed.


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## pandamonium (May 14, 2012)

skinyron said:


> absolutely possible i do it all the time with my hc and glosso just keep in mind that it will take a few days to adapt to the new growing environment. i use a seed tray with a plastic lid it helps keep the humidity high. good luck
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk 2


Ok in that "adaptation" time, will the plant melt? Or will the growth just stop for a bit. What I plan to do is trim some plants out of my tank here and then ship them up to school, then grow it emersed. I was thinking about using those dorm room storage rollers, about 4 feet by 2 feet footprint and about 5-8 inches deep. Either that or my storage tubs at school, emptied of course. Floaters I can probably leave at home they will grow very well on their own. What is a seed tray? Sorry might be a stupid question ><



Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi pandamonium,
> 
> Yes, many (but not all) plants that are growing submerged can be converted to emersed growth. Here is an excellent database of plant species that indicates if they can be grown emersed or not. The trick is to maintain very high humidity so when the plant is removed from the tank it doesn't go into shock from excessive water loss from transpiration. Plant leaves have a cuticle layer which helps them regulate their transpiration. When plants are growing in the water the cuticle layer of the leaf is very thin because there is no need for to regulate transpiration. When that same plant is growing emersed the leaf needs a thicker cuticle to regulate water loss. The lower the humidity of the environment the thicker the cuticle needs to be or the plant goes into shock and dies.
> 
> I am able to move plants fairly easily from submerged to emersed and back to submerged. The trick is to keep the cuticle layer thin by growing the emersed plants in a high humidity environment.  Here is a thread about how I maintain several species growing emersed.


Ok so as long as I maintain near 100% humidity, then I should be ok? Like I wrote in the quote above, I want to do this in tubs or in flat bins. I read your APC article and looked at the MGO potting soil you were using. I have looked at it before and people recommended topping it with sand or cat litter. Is this vital to plant growth success? And with fertilizers, do you dose as you would terrestrial plants? or do you have to put it under the soil? And regarding water in the soil, how wet should the soil be? I know it shouldn't be soaked but I know it should be quite moist.

The reason I asked is because looking at some aquatic stem plants, it doesn't seem like they have strong enough stems to grow emersed. I'll check out that list and see what I have that can make the transition  Hopefully this will work.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi pandamonium,

I have not had a plant, not even crypts, 'melt' going from submerged to emersed when I move them into the humidomes. Over a period of time I open the top little by little and adjust the plants to lower humidity levels.

I don't use MGO, I use regular Miracle Grow Potting Mix and here is the info on ferts, you must have missed it. I top the Miracle Grow Potting Mix with kitty litter to help keep fungus from forming on the surface of the potting mix and make it easy to spot BGA if it starts to form.



> Currently I use Scotts Miracle Grow Potting Mix (not 'moisture control') covered by 1/4" of montmorillonite clay or cheap non-clumping/no fragrance kitty litter to keep fungus from growing on the potting mix and make it easier to spot a BGA early. The fertilizer in the potting mix lasts for about 3 months. I augment the fertilizer in the substrate with Miracle-Gro® Water Soluble All Purpose Plant Food which I use at 1/2 strength every couple of weeks when I water."


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## cookymonster760 (Apr 30, 2011)

will be stealing that peptent idea that is so ingenious thanks for the great info


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## pandamonium (May 14, 2012)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi pandamonium,
> 
> I have not had a plant, not even crypts, 'melt' going from submerged to emersed when I move them into the humidomes. Over a period of time I open the top little by little and adjust the plants to lower humidity levels.
> 
> I don't use MGO, I use regular Miracle Grow Potting Mix and here is the info on ferts, you must have missed it. I top the Miracle Grow Potting Mix with kitty litter to help keep fungus from forming on the surface of the potting mix and make it easy to spot BGA if it starts to form.


Ok I was told elsewhere to use MGO which is why I ask. Do I need to prepare the soil in anyway? Like mineralize it? Or is that all taken care of? And also, how is the smell? My townhouse-mates are concerned about if it will attract bugs or smell bad. 



cookymonster760 said:


> will be stealing that peptent idea that is so ingenious thanks for the great info


Agreed haha. You better start drinking lots of soda cookymonster!


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi pandamonium,

No, I just use the Miracle Grow Potting Mix straight from the bag. No smell unless BGA starts to form; the peptents keep the moist earthy smell to a minimum.

Keep in mind that the system I use is not for trying to grow large quantities of plants to sell; I am trying to keep several species available for aquascaping purposes and if a GSAS member needs a 'starter portion' for their tanks.


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## Jegli09 (Jul 25, 2012)

Whats the plant in the second picture on the bottom?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi Jegli09,

That would be Eriocaulon parkeri growing emersed and in bloom.


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## InterestingFish (Aug 15, 2012)

Is Eriocaulon Parkeri usually grown submerged?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi InterestingFish,

It can be grown either way; it looks really good as a small grouping in an aquascape with the unique leaf shape and lighter green color.


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## pandamonium (May 14, 2012)

Thanks Seattle. I will have to look for that potting soil. Is it this one? http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...e+Grow+Potting+Mix&storeId=10051#.UCwnf92PWTU
I don't plan to use the peptents as you did, more planning on placing it in a large storage bin with a 48 inch shoplight above it. 
How many hours of light do you give these plants normally? And I plan to cover the bin with saran wrap to keep the moisture and humidity high. Will I ever need to monitor that?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi pandamonium,

Yes, that is the potting mix that I use. My lights are on a timer, they come on about 6:00am and off at 10:30pm. I don't monitor my humidity, the bottom inch or so of the pots in the Peptents are in water and they are enclosed so the humidity is always high.


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## tobystanton (Jun 27, 2012)

Have you ever tried to grow the plants in the peptents using natural sunlight ?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi tobystanton,

There is a west facing window on the behind with shelf with a venetian blind which I keep 3/4+ closed. If the humidomes were to be in direct sunshine the plants would probably cook due to high temps.


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## Aben314 (Feb 14, 2012)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi pandamonium,
> 
> Yes, that is the potting mix that I use. My lights are on a timer, they come on about 6:00am and off at 10:30pm. I don't monitor my humidity, the bottom inch or so of the pots in the Peptents are in water and they are enclosed so the humidity is always high.


16.5 hours of light????

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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi Aben 314,

lol, no algae to worry about with emersed growth!


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> ....


Roy- Can you tell me about these fiber looking pots you are using. What are they called if I want to find them, source link would be great. How wet can they tolerate before they fall apart.

They look like they might be a good alternative to rock wool to using in my Aquaponic system.

Thank you
Frank


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi Dogfish,

I use 2-1/4" and 3" Coir pots; Coir is made from the fiber husk of coconuts and seems to last substantially longer for me than peat pots. It is organic, pretty much inert, and allows water to enter and roots (after a while) to emerge. I keep them about 33% - 50% submerged in the 'Peptents' and my storage containers and they seem start to fall apart and need to be replaced every 6 - 9 months. I find it easier to replace them when the roots of whatever I am growing in them start to penetrate the coir in several places. Then I just cut the coir down the side, take out the plant (roots, dirt, and all) rinse off the roots and re-pot.

I am currently using Planter's Pride Fiber Grow Pots which I pick up locally at a full service nursery.


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## Aben314 (Feb 14, 2012)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Hi Aben 314,
> 
> lol, no algae to worry about with emersed growth!


So there's nothing wrong with that much lighting a day?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Hi Aben 314,

I have had no adverse effects as a result of the 16 hour photoperiod for my emersed plants. 

Keep in mind that a 'typical' day at the equator is 12 hours of daylight, however if you go north or south of the equator the length of the day increases during the summer months. For example, at 30 degree latitude from the equator which incorporates most of the 'tropics' the daylight period is about 14 hours during the summer months (which is the season of maximum growth). At 60 degree latitude, which would include the temperate zones, the daylight period on a summer day increases to 16 hours. Good question!


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Roy - Thanks I'm going too try a few of those. 


Aben314 - Do keep in mind natural Sun light spectrum, angle and intensity changes through out the day. This effect was really demonstrate for me in my whiskey Barrel pond this year.

Yes, longer photo periods are beneficial however, we all must tune our on systems based on our light sources.


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