# Oceanic Biocube 14g Iwaguim Shrimp Tank



## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Last Updated: 12/21/12
View attachment 59318


Currently, I am doing a DSM...


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7/18/2012

Hello Everyone!

I'm fairly new to this hobby, but let me say that I was sucked right in and now I can't stop. lol :bounce:

After a previous complete tank disaster, I have learned to take things much slower. 

This is my first journal and I have decided to try the DSM with HC for the first time. :icon_cool

The following are the specifications of my aquarium setup:

1. Oceanic Biocube 14g - I have modded the tank in several ways. First, I modded chamber 1 for extra flow, secondly I've added an inTank 3 stage filter in chamber 2, and thirdly swapped out the stock fans and upgraded. (If you would like specifics/how-to please ask)

2. Coralife 10,000k 24w 13" bulbs x2 - This should give me MEDIUM LIGHT if I run one light and HIGH LIGHT if I run both according to Hoopy's PAR chart.

3. Eco-Complete Substrate - Which has been rinsed and dried out due to my last tank catastrophe.

4. DIY Paintball Co2 System - Which I just got off Craigslist and haven’t tried yet. Probably won’t be able to because I have to wait for the DSM to finish first.

Now, I want to share the photo's! 

>Tank with Eco-Complete Only
View attachment 51100


>Added Seiryu Stones
View attachment 51101


>Added HC - Day 1 of DSM
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>Tank with Eco-Complete Only
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>Added Seiryu Stones
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>Added HC - Day 1 of DSM
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>Trying to get the humidity up by keeping the lights on and misting often
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>2 Coralife 10,000k 24w 13" Bulbs
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>Taped off an area where moisture can escape
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>Warning!!!
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>See what happens when you mess with my tank? I eat you! :icon_conf
View attachment 51110


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## aweeby (Oct 1, 2011)

i would seal it well with saran wrap, refrain from opening seal, and put all 3 bulbs in. this will keep the humidity high. during dry start, the more light the better it'll grow in. you could probably even run some desklamps on the sides.


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

aweeby said:


> i would seal it well with saran wrap, refrain from opening seal, and put all 3 bulbs in. this will keep the humidity high. during dry start, the more light the better it'll grow in. you could probably even run some desklamps on the sides.


Hmm, didn't know this. Thanks for the tip!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Day 2: 5/19/12



aweeby said:


> i would seal it well with saran wrap, refrain from opening seal, and put all 3 bulbs in. this will keep the humidity high. during dry start, the more light the better it'll grow in. you could probably even run some desklamps on the sides.


Thank you for your input aweeby. I have taken your advice as far as saran wrapping the tank because I felt like it wasn't humid enough.

>Picture of tank saran wrapped

View attachment 51133


>Close up picture of the overlap

View attachment 51134


I also taped up the sides to make sure the seal was tight enough. I didn't want to hook up the 3rd light because the plastic cover for the lights doesn't fit right with the third light. I suppose I could mess with it and make it fit; although, I feel like I might burn out the HC with to much light. I am already using 2 coralife 24w 10,000k bulbs and running them for 12 hours a day.

A few questions come to mind as I am trying to refrain myself from messing with the tank.

1. How do I know that it's wet enough inside the tank?
2. How do I know that it's humid enough inside the tank?
3. How often should I be opening the seal and spraying?
4. Should I fill the water to the point below the substrate or should spray frequently?

Thanks!


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## aweeby (Oct 1, 2011)

Everyone will have their own preferences and opinions with dry start, but for me, personally, I have the most success keeping it well sealed, only opening it maybe 2x a week. I didn't have a spray bottle at the time so i would just add water from my main tank with a yogurt cup or something until the water line was basically at or slightly below the substrate level from the lowest point in the substrate. I did this maybe once every 2 weeks, or as needed. (obviously within reason, though) IMHO, you want to crack the seal as infrequently as possible. 

And one more thing i forgot to mention yesterday. You'll definitely want to split that hc up into little pieces. Individual stems are best. Giving it room to grow out will encourage a much stronger root structure, and it'll spread faster, which also helps to deter growth of mold, algae and etc. in the 5.5g in my signature, i planted one side in clumps and the other as stems. the stem side carpeted faster, looks better today, while the clump side contracted a virus halfway through and took much longer to reach the same coverage of the stem side, plus it ended up looking quite uneven for the longest time. These clumps were about 1/4 the size of yours, too. 

You'll know it's humid enough when there's thick condensation on the glass and walls. When you crack the lid to check, it will feel noticeably sticky and humid to your bare hand. TO get to this point, you'll have to leave it for a few days to build up humidity without cracking the seal. There's pretty much nothing else you can do practically to raise humidity other than ths.

In the beginning, when your HC has been freshly brought out of submersed, it is a bit more delicate. However, when you start seeing fresh growth, I would actually up the wattage to 75 watts with desklamps and such. maybe just ditch the hood. the tank you have looks kind of high, so at the substrate level, the humidity should be somewhat higher than at the top. 

Also. I here, with my coffee mug of instant ramen, envy your supper.


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## gotplants (Apr 18, 2012)

Nice start. You have some large clumps of HC there. You should think about cutting them up into smaller pieces and spread it throughout the tank in columns/rows. That might make it spread a bit faster and evenly.

I was thinking about getting that Biocube but went for a rimless instead. Your tank is going to be pretty similar to this one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfVZVxWuCYE


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

Looks like you have a good start. My son has the same tank over 4 years now. His fans are shot I think they finally died last week. I would be interested in seeing your fan mod. I've been icing the tank every day to keep it at 80 degrees so I definitely need to replace the fans.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

aweeby said:


> Everyone will have their own preferences and opinions with dry start, but for me, personally, I have the most success keeping it well sealed, only opening it maybe 2x a week. I didn't have a spray bottle at the time so i would just add water from my main tank with a yogurt cup or something until the water line was basically at or slightly below the substrate level from the lowest point in the substrate. I did this maybe once every 2 weeks, or as needed. (obviously within reason, though) IMHO, you want to crack the seal as infrequently as possible.
> 
> And one more thing i forgot to mention yesterday. You'll definitely want to split that hc up into little pieces. Individual stems are best. Giving it room to grow out will encourage a much stronger root structure, and it'll spread faster, which also helps to deter growth of mold, algae and etc. in the 5.5g in my signature, i planted one side in clumps and the other as stems. the stem side carpeted faster, looks better today, while the clump side contracted a virus halfway through and took much longer to reach the same coverage of the stem side, plus it ended up looking quite uneven for the longest time. These clumps were about 1/4 the size of yours, too.
> 
> ...


This morning I woke up and first thing I did was take everything out of the tank. I broke up the HC into smaller clumps and re planted them. Thanks for the tips but I still feel like my clumps are too big. There is no way I am going to take the time to plant stem by stem...

>Picture of larger clumps
View attachment 51187


>Close up of larger clumps
View attachment 51188


>Replanted after breaking down the large clumps into several smaller ones.
View attachment 51189


I may take your advice on upping the wattage because I do have that option, but for now I want to wait a bit like you suggest and see how this goes for a few weeks.

If anyone is wondering why I didn't plant in the back right corner it's because I'm going to plant other plants back there after my DSM is done.


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## Chrisinator (Jun 5, 2008)

Not to make you do it again, but I think you break it down in even smaller clumps. You'll find this won't prevent any die-offs from a lot of plants above the leaves.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

gotplants said:


> Nice start. You have some large clumps of HC there. You should think about cutting them up into smaller pieces and spread it throughout the tank in columns/rows. That might make it spread a bit faster and evenly.
> 
> I was thinking about getting that Biocube but went for a rimless instead. Your tank is going to be pretty similar to this one.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kfVZVxWuCYE


Yea, this was my inspiration at first. I've decided to try and go my own way and not completely copy. lol


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Chaoslord said:


> Looks like you have a good start. My son has the same tank over 4 years now. His fans are shot I think they finally died last week. I would be interested in seeing your fan mod. I've been icing the tank every day to keep it at 80 degrees so I definitely need to replace the fans.


I would post a eBay link where I got my fans from but I think that is against the forum rules these days; however, if you search:

*NEW Ultimate Oceanic Biocube 8 & 14 dual Fan upgrade Kit Plug Play BALL BEARINGS*

in eBay you should find that I bought for under $30.


The fans are quite loud but they do not rattle like the stock ones did. I would take a picture of the wiring but all my wiring is modded and would probably do you no good. No worries though because the fans are super easy to install. All you have to do is plug and play.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Chaoslord said:


> Looks like you have a good start. My son has the same tank over 4 years now. His fans are shot I think they finally died last week. I would be interested in seeing your fan mod. I've been icing the tank every day to keep it at 80 degrees so I definitely need to replace the fans.


I would post a eBay link where I got my fans from but I think that is aginst the forum rules these days; however, if you search:

NEW Ultimate Oceanic Biocube 8 & 14 dual Fan upgrade Kit Plug Play BALL BEARINGS

in eBay you should find that I bought for under $30.


The fans are quite loud but they do not rattle like the stock ones did. I would take a picture of the wiriing but all my wiring is modded and would probably do you no good. No worries though because the fans are super easy to install. All you have to do is plug and play.


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## Ozydego (Aug 29, 2011)

I made the mistake of planting my HC big the 1st time, the 2nd time I really changed it up and have WAAY better growth. I did not do a DSM though, the HC was grown submersed and I kept it that way. In my sig you can see how small my clumps were and how they are growing in. For me a more pwerful light would be very beneficial. Also, I saw you left the rock wool on the roots, use tweezers and pull them through the roots to dislodge the rockwool and plant without it, it tends to cause more harm than good.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Ozydego said:


> I made the mistake of planting my HC big the 1st time, the 2nd time I really changed it up and have WAAY better growth. I did not do a DSM though, the HC was grown submersed and I kept it that way. In my sig you can see how small my clumps were and how they are growing in. For me a more pwerful light would be very beneficial. Also, I saw you left the rock wool on the roots, use tweezers and pull them through the roots to dislodge the rockwool and plant without it, it tends to cause more harm than good.


Oh man... Seriously? That means I have to pull each one out take the rock wool off and plant again. That just seems like a lot of work right now. I suppose your right though. I should probably do that...

Thanks for the tip.

Here I wanted to post a few more photo's of my fans and lights.

> FAN 1
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>FAN 2
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>Lights
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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

What do aquarium hobbyist do to "Feed The Need" (if you will) during thee DSM because it's only been a few days and I am already impatient... lol:bounce:


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

tylergvolk said:


> What do aquarium hobbyist do to "Feed The Need" (if you will) during thee DSM because it's only been a few days and I am already impatient... lol:bounce:


That's what more than one tank is for! LOL


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Haha, yea I currently have a another tank which helps. I've also got a couple books from the library to ready in the mean time. :hihi:

I should start thinking about getting a big tank. Something in the 55+ range would be nice, but first I need to master what I got going on here first. There is nothing wrong with planning though...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

After doing some research, I'm wondering if I'm setting myself up for an algae disaster...

I'm running 2 24w 10,000K lights for 12 hours a day and its Day 4 on my DSM.

What do you think?


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

tylergvolk said:


> I would post a eBay link where I got my fans from but I think that is against the forum rules these days; however, if you search:
> 
> *NEW Ultimate Oceanic Biocube 8 & 14 dual Fan upgrade Kit Plug Play BALL BEARINGS*
> 
> ...


Wanted to say thanks. Super easy to Install and I even cut off the vents like you posted. I have super air flow now and tank temp is at 78 with no ice,it's never that low in the summer.I'm usually at 82. It is louder but their is no rattling and its worth it. roud:
I paid 25 shipping included.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Chaoslord said:


> Wanted to say thanks. Super easy to Install and I even cut off the vents like you posted. I have super air flow now and tank temp is at 78 with no ice,it's never that low in the summer.I'm usually at 82. It is louder but their is no rattling and its worth it. roud:
> I paid 25 shipping included.


I thought so to, and I'm glad you had a positive experience with the same product. They are kinda loud though don't you think? I wonder what quiet fans sound like...


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## aweeby (Oct 1, 2011)

SET UP/RESCAPE MORE AQUARIUMS!!!

i have about 7-8 tanks going at any given time so it's all good.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I would love to but I need to pace myself. Next, I'd like to do a mountinous hardscape with all kinda of mosses. They seem like low maininence and look awesome.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Photo Update: Week 1 Complete*

7/26/12: Week 1 Complete!

Photo Update

>Photo of Week 1 Complete
View attachment 51549


>Humidity stays between 80-90% & temperature is always just below 80F
View attachment 51550


I've added a hint of API Co2 Booster in the spray bottle.

Well, I can't complain. So far, so good...


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

hey, another biocube owner here.

very interested in your mods thus far regarding the filtration in the first and second chambers. is this documented anywhere or would you mind posting these details? I'm still getting my head around the filtration since the tank was a gift but many parts were missing. just was able to acquire the water pump for the return to the tank and purchased some tubing. I'm planning on a planted shrimp tank and need to get this running to start the akadama cycle. Interested in your work on the project. best, Al


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I'd love to help.

Here are some youtube.com videos of the mods that were done to my tank.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rpr4asbIL8&feature=results_video&playnext=1&list=PL941ED3BDF43BAC61

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OLa89Lbshco&feature=relmfu

In the first chamber I have my heater in chamber 2 I have the Intank basket 3 stages of filtration:

1. Floss/Mechanical
2. Carbon/Chemical
3. Fluval BIOMAX/Biological

In chamber 3, I have a sponge although I was thinking about changing it to something else.

Hope this helps, but if you need specific details search google, type: "biocube mods" and you will find a bunch of information.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Update: 2 Weeks 8/1/12*

Some of the HC has turn a bit yellow; however, some has turn a lush green and I have actually started seeing some new growth. I'm starting to realize how slow this stuff actually grows. On the bright side, I'm past the initial stage where the HC needs to establish itself.

This next week I expect a noticeably more growth and even more the week after. I will keep you all updates.

I plan to do this DSM for AS LONG AS IT TAKES! Call me dedicated, but I want this stuff to cover everything!

See the pictures

View attachment 51802


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Future additions:

I want to create the prefect looking moss tree in the back right corner. I have a piece of wood that will work for the trunk of my tree. I currently have it in another tank. However I am depabatiing whether or not the buy a different piece. 

Right now, I'm thinking I can mount a rock to the top of this piece and mount a base to support the weight. Then, I could hairnet Ricca or some other type of moss to the rock creating a tree.

My piece of drift wood is about 7" high and 2" thick. The rock I would want would be about 1" thick and 6" wide in a circular shape. Like the type of rock you look for when you are at the lake skipping rocks.

Another idea that was presented to me was to use crumpled up screen( not metal) for the top of my tree.

Other then that, I'm thinking about growing a few moss rocks below the tree - still in the light - to look like bushes.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

I think the screen would be the best idea. You could mold it to your tree the easiest. Sounds like its will look great.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Update: 3 Weeks 8/8/12*

I have to say the time has gone by slowly. I want to DSM this HC till its full and thick. I'm hoping by 2.5 months this HC will be ready to rock and roll!

On the contrary, I have seen some yellowing and browning throughout. It's not in an specific area but kinda of just in random places. It's not enough to scare me but I did let it air out for half and day which brought my water level down. I'm thinking that its just to wet in there. This next week I am going to keep the water level even lower and see how the HC responds. I did plant is somewhat large clumps; therefore, that could be the reason for the yellowing and browning.

On a more positive note, I've noticed the leaves are bigger and more lush which is a good sign. The pictures really don't do it justice but I will post my week 3 picture.

> Week 3 Picture
View attachment 52198


As far as my plans for my moss tree, I have decided to do a DIY Zip Tie Moss Tree. I actually went ahead and bought some manzanita branches off Craigslist for $7 each. See Pictures

>Branch 1
View attachment 52195


>Branch 2
View attachment 52196


>Branches 1&2
View attachment 52197


I bought 2 just in case I needed extra, but I'm thinking I am only going to need 1. I plan to cut one down to the size I want and zip tie the branches on top to form the right shape. I will keep you all updated on how that all unfolds; however, the DIY Zip Tie Moss Tree will not be fully installed until after my DSM is complete.


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

Have you been using fertilizers in your spray bottle? Eco-Complete is inert until you start dosing fertilizers. The yellowing/browning of your HC might be because of a nutrient deficiency. 

I love branches 1&2 together, but since you're only using one I would go with the first branch.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Overgrowth said:


> Have you been using fertilizers in your spray bottle? Eco-Complete is inert until you start dosing fertilizers. The yellowing/browning of your HC might be because of a nutrient deficiency.
> 
> I love branches 1&2 together, but since you're only using one I would go with the first branch.


I was wondering about that because I have heard about people over fertilizing. I decided I wasn't really going to fertilize at all until I filled the tank, but maybe I should...

Naturally, my next question is how much should I does? I can easily take the current water out and add new water with fertilizer in it, but I don't want to add to much.

Here is what I currently have for fertilizer.

>Front
View attachment 52224


>Back
View attachment 52225


Today, I ordered SeaChem Flourish line of fertilizers:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=23830&cmpid=03csepg&ref=3475&subref=AA

But they will not arrive for another week or so.

Should I wait to SeaChem Flourish or add what I currently have?


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## aweeby (Oct 1, 2011)

You might just want to buy some dry powder ferts from GLA or somewhere. It should be much cheaper than what you have... The leaf zone stuff, I have no personal experience with, but I know it's more for non high tech tanks.


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

aweeby said:


> You might just want to buy some dry powder ferts from GLA or somewhere. It should be much cheaper than what you have... The leaf zone stuff, I have no personal experience with, but I know it's more for non high tech tanks.


Yeah, all it has is iron and potassium, but it's good in conjunction with flourish comp. Put around 5 mL in a bottle and spray everyday.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

aweeby said:


> You might just want to buy some dry powder ferts from GLA or somewhere. It should be much cheaper than what you have... The leaf zone stuff, I have no personal experience with, but I know it's more for non high tech tanks.


Please forgive me but what does GLA stand for?

Again, how much is safe to use? What concentration should I mix if I take this route?


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Overgrowth said:


> Yeah, all it has is iron and potassium, but it's good in conjunction with flourish comp. Put around 5 mL in a bottle and spray everyday.


Are you saying put 5ml of what I already got in a spray bottle and add water? Or do you mean wait for the excel?

I'm apologize for being picky. I just do want to mess this up. I want to use safe concentrations of fertilizers. 

The leaf zone recommends 5ml for 10g weekly and the co2 booter recommends 1ml 10g daily.


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## aweeby (Oct 1, 2011)

gla= green leaf aquariums, an online store

alternatively, here are some other places to buy.

http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/
http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html
nilocg used to sell bulk fertilizers at a cheaper price than the above two, not sure what's happening now though. 

can't help you on the dry dosing though, sorry.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

aweeby said:


> gla= green leaf aquariums, an online store
> 
> alternatively, here are some other places to buy.
> 
> ...


I think that in the long run the dry fertilizers will save me money, but for now and for being somewhat new to the hobby, I am going to stick with the oh so popular SeaChem Flourish line of fertilizers.


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

tylergvolk said:


> Are you saying put 5ml of what I already got in a spray bottle and add water? Or do you mean wait for the excel?
> 
> I'm apologize for being picky. I just do want to mess this up. I want to use safe concentrations of fertilizers.
> 
> The leaf zone recommends 5ml for 10g weekly and the co2 booter recommends 1ml 10g daily.


I use another version of leaf zone, same ingredients. It recommends 5 mL for 10G but I think that the plants would use the nutrients up before the week is over so I put the 5mL in the spray bottle and spray 5 times a week, once a day. Of course the seachem line is way better than leaf zone but it's better than nothing for now.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I decided to mix 3ml of leaf zone and 1 ml of Co2 booster in a 1 gallon bottle. I took out maybe 2oz of water from the tank and replaced it with the new water with ferts. I also filled a spray bottle with the new water with ferts.

When my shipment of SeaChem comes in I will switch over. I hope this works out well...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Problem:*

I took some pictures today. I figured they could help with the diagnosis.

The problem: HC is yellowing 3 weeks in my DSM & some of it has browned and shriveled away.

Picture time!

View attachment 52244
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View attachment 52246
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View attachment 52248
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View attachment 52250
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View attachment 52252


It's weird because some spots are doing well and other are not. Today I added some ferts as stated in a previous post. 

I suppose I just need to be more patient...

I will wait 1 weeks and reassess.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Hello everyone!

I was just sitting around this Sunday evening with some extra time on my hands and I thought I would stop in and share some of my thoughts about how my DSM with HC is going.

This is a true test to my patience and needless to say this is my first time attempting a DSM. The challange is not to second guess yourself and trust the simplicity of the method. AKA don't tamper to much with the tank and just let things work themselves out. If you look back a post, you will see picture of my HC turning yellow and bits of it browning. After taking comments and suggestions, I believe that its the transition from submersed to emmersed. I thought for a second that it was from a lack of nutrients, but I just don't think so. I did put some ferts in yesterday but today I took that water out via chicken baster and added fresh tap back in. This comming Wednesday will be the one month mark; however, I am in no hurry. I rather have a timely success then a quick failure.

On another note, I have my DIY Paintball CO2 System ready to go. I have never used this thing before. I am really excited to figure out how to dial it in and get the right balance with my light, ferts, and CO2.

Speaking of fertilizers, I ordered SeaChem Flourish 4 pack of fertilizers however, as I understand it the dry ferts are a cheaper way to go. I think for now I will stick to the ever so popular SeaChem. As my tank matures, I can always switch over in the future. 

I have these Manzanita branches too for my moss tree. Although my main goal for this tank is simple. Learn to successfully grow a thick & healthy bed of HC, I want to try the tree moss idea.

Oh wow, they just announced the reunion of the spice girls! lol :frown:

Before I flood which is over a month and a half away at least, I need to research a couple things in order to minimize algae:



How much ferts to dose (EI).


How to dial in the Paintball CO2 system


I find this hobby to be amazingly interesting. I find myself wanting to learn more and more about the specifics to create a beautiful healthy tank. 

Anyways, that's all for now. Thanks for reading.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I just got off the phone with Doctors Foster and Smith's customer service.

I recently placed an order for SeaChem Flourish 4 pack including: Flourish, Excel, Nitrogen, and Iron.

The Flourish and Excel seals were open upon receiving shipment and kinda made a mess inside the box. No much had leached out but enough for me to call there customer service which was written right on the receipt.

I was real nice to them and they were very nice to me. I was impressed with their customer service. They said they would send me another shipment immediately and in addition to that *I get to keep the shipment have currently have.* 

In conclusion, I highly recommend the company Doctors Foster and Smith.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*8/15/12: Week 4 Complete!*

I have finally hit the 1 month mark. I was expecting this stuff to take off but so far I'm not impressed. It just doesn't seem to be doing very well. I wonder if it will do better when the tank is filled and I pump Co2 with Flourish and Excel?

I'm still going to give this dry start another month AT LEAST, but if things get worse I might have to fill early. I hope things will improve. I haven't seen any improvement since last weekend. I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks.

> 1 MONTH
View attachment 52415


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Do you see any blue-green algae starting to create a film on the substrate? If yes, then that could be a factor in the slow growth rate. 

Don't worry so much about humidity. Open the saran wrap at least once per day and get new air into the aquarium, but make sure to mist. Also beware of creating puddles of water in the substrate as this can lead to algae. There are mixed results from adding ferts to the spray bottle. I had only negative results, so I just used tap water.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Capsaicin_MFK said:


> Do you see any blue-green algae starting to create a film on the substrate? If yes, then that could be a factor in the slow growth rate.
> 
> Don't worry so much about humidity. Open the saran wrap at least once per day and get new air into the aquarium, but make sure to mist. Also beware of creating puddles of water in the substrate as this can lead to algae. There are mixed results from adding ferts to the spray bottle. I had only negative results, so I just used tap water.


I do not see any blue-gree algae anywhere and I'm glad. NO ALGAE! I've been keeping it sealed for about 2-4 days at a time. Maybe I'll switch to opening the seal for an hour each day and misting tap.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

tylergvolk said:


> I just got off the phone with Doctors Foster and Smith's customer service.
> 
> I recently placed an order for SeaChem Flourish 4 pack including: Flourish, Excel, Nitrogen, and Iron.
> 
> ...


The second shipment came in today; however, the flourish cap was loose and got all over the package. They are sending me another bottle of flourish only this time.

>Two 4-Packs of SeaChem + Another Flourish 250ml in the mail
View attachment 52474

All for the price of one!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

As I plan for the future progression of my tank scape. I took the time this weekend to create my DIY Zip Tie Moss Tree. I have not yet decided which moss to use but I have the tree put together and trimmed to size. I took some picture for pleasure!

>Out of the tank
View attachment 52676


>Close up of the zip ties
View attachment 52677


>In the tank
View attachment 52678


>Another in the tank picture
View attachment 52679


I just have it sitting in the substrate for picture purposes. Right now, I have the tree soaking in water to remove the tannins. The tree is made out of Manzanita wood.

My one concern is the reddish colored bark on the wood. It seems to me sort of loose, and I wonder if this is going to create some type of problem for me down the road...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*8/22/12: Week 5 Complete!*

HC is still looking yellow and brown in places, but it is expanding and growing never-the-less. I've accepted the fact that it is transitioning from suberged to emerged. I just wish I knew that it would take this long to transition in the beginning. Then I probably would of just filled the tank right away. Still, I love taking the time to go through the experience.

I took my soaking DIY Zip Tie Moss Tree out of the water. I am going to attach it to a base after it dries. I will probably gorilla glue it to a piece of slate, then I will soak it again for a few weeks.

I am in the works of starting another aquarium. 20G L and I will begin a journal for that aquarium also. 

Stay tuned!

> 5 Weeks
View attachment 52789


> Bottom Left Close Up
View attachment 52790


> Bottom Right Close Up
View attachment 52791


> Top Left Close Up
View attachment 52792


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

You have tons more patience that I have! But I'm glad it's growing. I hope it takes off soon.

Instead of gluing the wood to the slate, how about using a screw? I think that would probably hold better. I'm not sure how gorilla glue will do, but most glues I've tried don't bond to slate very well.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Complexity said:


> You have tons more patience that I have! But I'm glad it's growing. I hope it takes off soon.
> 
> Instead of gluing the wood to the slate, how about using a screw? I think that would probably hold better. I'm not sure how gorilla glue will do, but most glues I've tried don't bond to slate very well.


Good suggestion; however, I was told to keep metals out of aquariums. Which type of screw do you suggest using?


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

tylergvolk said:


> Good suggestion; however, I was told to keep metals out of aquariums. Which type of screw do you suggest using?


You can use stainless steel safely. They won't rust or cause any problems in the tank.


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## Ozydego (Aug 29, 2011)

Honestly, I think gorilla glue would be absolutely perfect. I used it in a slate waterfall build and it is insanely strong. Also, once the gorilla glue dries, it is completely safe for use in water. You did say the bark was loose, I would remove it before glueing. A stainless screw works as well, but be careful drilling the slate so it doesnt crack.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Gorilla is a brand name for many different kinds of glue. Which gorilla glue did you use?


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## Ozydego (Aug 29, 2011)

I used the original gorilla glue, the one that foams and expands as it cures.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Ozydego said:


> I used the original gorilla glue, the one that foams and expands as it cures.


Is this the stuff? http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-glue


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## Stinkmonky (Apr 16, 2012)

Awesome! I really love this tank and that's it's being used for freshwater.


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## Ozydego (Aug 29, 2011)

Complexity said:


> Is this the stuff? http://www.gorillatough.com/index.php?page=gorilla-glue


 
yeah, that looks like it. I use it in Dart frog terrariums with good success


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Ozydego said:


> yeah, that looks like it. I use it in Dart frog terrariums with good success


Great, thank you! I'm always on the lookout for good glues that work with this hobby. I've been very happy with some of the other gorilla brand of glues, but I've never tried this one. I'm going to give this one a try. :smile:


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## Ozydego (Aug 29, 2011)

In the dart frog hobby there is a HUGE push to find materials that wont leech toxins, because the frogs absorb water through their skin and are very sensitive. Interstingly, Great Stuff Foam is totally inert once it cures and gorrilla glue shares the same qualities. It is one of the few glues besides silicone that froggers trust.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Stinkmonky said:


> Awesome! I really love this tank and that's it's being used for freshwater.


Thanks, I appreciate the compliment. I've put a lot of time into this. I just wish the HC would do better. I have a feeling it's not going to really take off until I fill, add ferts, and CO2.

While I am waiting on the DSM, I have started another tank to keep me occupied. It's a low tech 20L. Getting all my ducks in a row before I launch it.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*8/29/12: Week 6 Complete!*

Quick update. HC is doing a little better but not much. I expected this stuff to take off but it hasn't yet. My HC has had a tough transition from Submerged to Emerged. I'm thinking it will do much better if I fill and crank the CO2. Time will tell. I am not filling yet, but my patients are truly being tested...

> Week 6
View attachment 53176


I have mounted my DIY Zip Tie Moss Tree to a piece of slate with a stainless steel screw and gorilla glue.

> Mounted Moss Tree
View attachment 53177


I plan to get some Christmas Moss for the tree, and some Dwarf Sag for behind the tree as a buffer. I will probably fill in a week or two.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*9/5/12: Week 7 Complete!*

I think I have had it with this DSM. It seems the HC just hasn't really done much. For some reason, it just won't grow much.

>Week 7
View attachment 53439



I plan to fill and inject with pressurized Co2 at soon as I get my new cylinder filled. I also need to get my hands on some Christmas Moss. The saucer is filled flame moss from another tank. I'm not going to use it in this tank. It's just sitting in there because I had no other place to put it. 

If anyone has some that they are willing to send me I could really use some.

Thanks!


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## nerdariostomp (Aug 23, 2012)

Don't get discouraged. From the start to where you're at looks great! I'll be doing a dry start on my next tank so its cool to see another coming along (in my opinion) pretty well. Totally makes me want to get one of these cubes


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

nerdariostomp said:


> Don't get discouraged. From the start to where you're at looks great! I'll be doing a dry start on my next tank so its cool to see another coming along (in my opinion) pretty well. Totally makes me want to get one of these cubes


Thanks man! I appreciate that. I plan to fill next week. I ordered some Christmas Moss and Dwarf Sag. The sag is to fill in some spaces around the tree.

Stay Tuned!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Tomorrow will be week 8, two months and it's time to fill. I have Christmas Moss for the tree and Dwarf Sag to fill in between placed. I want to keep this tank very simple.

Do you guys think the HC will start to thrive after I fill? I hope so because it never did as well as I thought in this 2 month DSM...


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## tetra10 (Aug 5, 2012)

tylergvolk said:


> Tomorrow will be week 8, two months and it's time to fill. I have Christmas Moss for the tree and Dwarf Sag to fill in between placed. I want to keep this tank very simple.
> 
> Do you guys think the HC will start to thrive after I fill? I hope so because it never did as well as I thought in this 2 month DSM...


BLAST THE CO2 WITH ALL YOU'VE GOT! :icon_evil


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

tetra10 said:


> BLAST THE CO2 WITH ALL YOU'VE GOT! :icon_evil


You know I will! I got a nice new pressurized co2 setup to work with too! :icon_lol:


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## nerdariostomp (Aug 23, 2012)

Stoked to see how this went today


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*9/12/12: Week 8 Complete!*

Check it out everyone!

2 Full, Long, Patient Months

>2 Month DSM

View attachment 53777


Although, this DSM didn't do as well as I hoped. You can definitely see the difference from week 1.

>Week 1 DSM

View attachment 53778


In conclusion, I think my DSM was not up to par due to lack of nutrients. In the beginning, if I put a layer of dirt under the Eco-Complete, or just used a more nutrient rich substrate all together, then I would have had better results. Not to worry though because I have everything I got everything I needed to fill.

I filled today and I will get a picture in on the next post.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Fill Day*

Alright I have my Sag, X-Mas Moss, Moss Tree, and Seryiu Stones. Here is what the scape looks like after filling.

In order to try and stay ahead of insisting algae, I have done the following things:

- I turned one of my light off for the first week. Which puts me at medium light according to Hoppy research. After week 1, I plant to turn the other light on which puts the tank at high light.

- I am not going to add ferts until week 2.

- I cranked the Co2 up high. I'm around 5bps. I don't have a Drop Checker yet so I don't know what my ppm is.

>Fill Day

View attachment 53779


>Close Up 1

View attachment 53780


>Close Up 2

View attachment 53781


I used super glue to attach the moss to the tree. I tried to spread it would evening though out the entire tree. It's just not as full as I would like it to be. I ordered a golf ball size portion of Christmas Moss and I thought it would be more than I received. No worries though, I might just have to get some from my LFS and tie it on with fishing line if it doesn't fill in fast enough.

Please comments/suggestions welcome!

I like constructive feedback because I want to get things looking good and well balanced.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I plan to follow this light/water change plan.

http://www.shrimpnow.com/content.php/245-Starting-a-Planted-Tank-Using-Dry-Start-Method

*Flooding the Tank* 

Once the plants have filled in like shown above, it's time to fill the tank with water. Once the water is filled, CO2 injection is required and needs to be kept very high for 2 weeks close to 5 bubbles per second (bps). Afterward, bring it down to 3bps. Setup lights as per the plants requirements. (Cuba is not a very light demanding plant). Setup filter that you have decided on using. If you are using nutrient rich substrate like ADA Amazonia II, follow the below light and water change routine.

*Week 1:* 3 Hrs of Light , 50 % Water change once in 3 Days
*Week 2:* 5 Hrs of Light , 30 % Water change once in 3 Days
*Week 3:* 7 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
*Week 4:* 9 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week

Your tank is completely cycled after this stage and if you follow the above routine you will have minimal algae issues except for some diatom algae during the first 2 weeks on the glass which is easily wiped off during your water changes.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Update: 1 Week After Flooding*

In an attempt for minimize algae issue I resorted to the following schedules for week 1 & 2. Also, I turned off one light putting my tank at about medium light:

*Week 1:* 3 Hrs of Light , 50 % Water change once in 3 Days

and this schedule for week 2:

*Week 2:* 5 Hrs of Light , 30 % Water change once in 3 Days

For the first time, I will dose fertilizers this week after the water change. All the plants seem to be doing okay as I have the Co2 Cranked. I plan to buy more x mass moss for the tree because I'm thinking it will take a long time for it to fill in.

I also added 5 Zebra Danios to help get the tank cycled. I do not plan to keep them in this tank long term. They are a good hearty fish so I figured I could get them in there prematurely. 

View attachment 54044


All comments are welcome. Thank you.


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## TheBigSleep (Aug 28, 2012)

tylergvolk said:


>


Sitting at work with a cup of coffee and eyes at half-mast... and after seeing your tank alls I want to do is pull up a chair under that little tree and take a nap :flick: Very peaceful looking, love it!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Thanks Sleep!

This is my first real attempt at doing everything correctly for a planted aquarium. I've learned from my mistakes in the past, and this time I have done all my research! lol

My HC seems to be doing well now that it is submerged and I plan to add some more Christmas Moss to the tree so it will fill out faster. I hope keep everything stable and allow the plants to fill out nicely in about 2 months or so. Stay tuned!

Today(1 week after filling) I tested my water parameters:

pH: 6.9
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0

So far so good...


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## Perryboat (Jul 11, 2012)

looking good Tyler. HC definitely showing more growth and getting thicker. Will 3-5 hrs photoperiod be sufficient for first 2 weeks?


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

I would add a little KNO3 and KH2PO4 to the tank. Not as much as EI dosing wants, but enough to get the HC transitioned, then slowly add more as the plant density becomes heavier.

I am almost 100% sure the DSM didn't go quicker for you because you weren't using a soil substrate like Organic Miracle Grow or AquaSoil.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Thank guys. Much appreciated!

I have an issue and I need some insight...

Today I did a 3.5 gallon water change and 3 Zebra Danios died. I tested the water a few days ago and all my parameters were good. I treated the water going into the tank and matched temperatures too. I can't seem to figure out what changed so much to kill Debra Danios. I'm wondering what was so hard on them to make them die.. I mean Debra Danios are a hearty fish. My drop checker was blue at the time of the w/c. I did however add the new water rather quickly with no circulation but my tank doesn't allow for circulation during w/c because the return pump makes bad sounds when it sucks in air.

Any ideas so I don't make this mistake again?



Capsaicin_MFK said:


> I would add a little KNO3 and KH2PO4 to the tank. Not as much as EI dosing wants, but enough to get the HC transitioned, then slowly add more as the plant density becomes heavier.
> 
> I am almost 100% sure the DSM didn't go quicker for you because you weren't using a soil substrate like Organic Miracle Grow or AquaSoil.


I completely agree with you on the soil substrate comment. What a drag... Only if I would have known ahead of time. Oh well, I'll never make that mistake again! lol



Perryboat said:


> looking good Tyler. HC definitely showing more growth and getting thicker. Will 3-5 hrs photo period be sufficient for first 2 weeks?


I've been doing 5 hours this past week and the HC seems to be doing GREAT. In a few days I will up the photo period to 7 hours adding some ferts.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I lost another fish today. I'm thinking part of the problem is the flow is to high. I need to either get an adjustable pump or put a slit in the return tube to reduce the flow...


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## R.sok (Sep 24, 2012)

This is what I used to reduce flow in my biocube. I just cut a small piece & placed it over the outlet of the filter then used a small rubber band to secure it. This choked it down a good amount & prevents my plants from swaying.

http://www.amazon.com/Como-Economic...id=1348630349&sr=1-4&keywords=aquarium+sponge


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I have done quite a few things since I last update. I will get right into it.

The flow on the bio cubes are just to strong for tetras and in addition to that the slits in the back leading the water to the filter are too big for tetras as well. They keep getting stuck in the filter through these slits.

I installed a plastic ballcock valve on the tube leading the to return in the third chamber. I apologize because I do not have any pictures; however, it worked out fabulous. I have solved my flow problem and took it once step further. I gave myself complete control over the flow with this new ballcock valve which seems to be holding up nicely.

I have not figured out a way to ascetically block the slits leading into the first chamber filter. I am thinking about using black plastic screen but I need to fasten it somehow and I can't get my hand to fit down the first chamber to block the lower set of slits. I will come up with something. If you have any ideas please let me know. Jamming a black sponge down there isn't going to cut it, but I might have to resort to that solution. We will see...

I added 3 otto's and oh my god. I love otto's now! They clean everything and I love it. I also, and increased my photo period to 9 hours and I am dosing SeaChem Flourish line of fertilizers as I am in my 4th week after filling.

Consequently, I have hair algae growing in the Christmas Moss. I have pulled some of it out with a tooth brush and I am hoping the Christmas Moss will out compete the moss eventually. I just recently added a 2 orders of 2x2" of Christmas Moss to the tree purchased from Aquadic Magic which arrived brown. I added it anyway in hope it would revive itself. Further more, my HC is not as lush as I would like it to be and I hope it improves over time.

Stay tuned... but in the mean time here are some photo's for your pleasure. Thank you so much for looking and please do comment. I appreciate and encourage any type of comment/suggestions/criticisms as this is a learning process for me.


>Tank Shot
View attachment 54960


>HC
View attachment 54961


>Christmas Moss Taking Hold
View attachment 54962


>Otto's
View attachment 54963


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Everything in this tank is doing very well. Currently, I have the following Fauna in this tank:

2 Platy's
8 Red Cherry Shrimp
2 Otto's

-The tree is coming in nicely however I am still battling the hair algae.

-The HC carpet is PERFECT, just how I envisioned it to be before I started.

-The Dwarf Sag is thriving nicely as well.

I get plenty of compliments on this tank and I am very pleased with the outcome. The HC has been doing so well, I have been transferring chunks of HC from this tank into another. The HC just fills in the bare spots within a few weeks. I "mowed the lawn" yesterday too, just to trimm things back a bit.

The biggest problem I have with this tank came when I started dosing ferts. I guess I am a noob when it comes to ferts, and apparently I am dosing to many because I keep getting algae blooms. My otto's love it but unfortunately, I am going to have to figure out a new ferts dosing method. Maybe I will just stop dosing all together and see how things will react...


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## HunterX (May 19, 2012)

That tank is very cool. Thanks for the updates. I enjoy reading them.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

HunterX said:


> That tank is very cool. Thanks for the updates. I enjoy reading them.


Thanks man, I'm glad you enjoy them. I'll be sure to get some more picture up when I can. Stay tuned.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

The hair algae is getting out of control in this tank. I've seen it start to grow on the HC now. The light it just too intense on top of that tree and there is no way to suspend the light. I've reduced the photo period to 7 hours in hopes to see some results but it's doubtful. I've also stopped dosing all together and am doing 5 gallon water changes weekly.

I'm thinking about taking the Moss tree out all together and replace it with some type of steam plant. Something with a BOLD color like red or pink. Yeah, maybe I will re-scape that back corner somehow. 

What do you think? Any ideas?


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## stevenjohn21 (May 23, 2012)

I had the same problem with my 75 gallon and Hoppy recommended placing insect screening to cover the light intensity by 40% , i tried it and its working very well


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

stevenjohn21 said:


> I had the same problem with my 75 gallon and Hoppy recommended placing insect screening to cover the light intensity by 40% , i tried it and its working very well


I read that somewhere awhile back. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. I should try that. Hmmm, awesome. 

If I decide not to, then I will just dip the tree in some type of algae killing solution and cross my fingers.

I havent really decided what to do yet. This tank is an HC producing machine though. I love it!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Major Changes (Moss Tree Removed)*

The following are the steps I took in this tank revamp:

1) Removed Moss Tree Completely
2) Removed Moss From Tree
3) Dipped Moss In H202 Solution For 10MIN. (Strong)
4) Rinsed Well
5) Chopped Moss Into Tiny Pieces
6) Created A Moss Wall For Another Tank

As more the hair Algae that has found it's way into the HC, I am doing a 3 day black out. I have the tank covered completely, and absolutely no light can get inside. I turned the Co2 off. I hope to see the Hair Algae gone or at least stunted in 3 days.

I have a new plant coming in the mail this week. Once received, I will re-scape the back right corner of this tank. Stay Tuned!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I've re-scaped this tank. Pictures coming soon!

I got a nice piece of petrified wood with some rotala Colorata in there now.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Hello Everyone and thank you to those who have been watching my thread.

I have made a few changes to this tank to compensate for the light intensity.

1) I put screen over the light to reduce the intensity.

2) I removed the moss tree and added a rock and some rotala.

Next, I plant to start dosing dry fertilizers, EI. I haven't decided on the final plan yet as I am still educating myself on how I should go about using fertilizers.

I do STILL have some algae in this tank in the following places:

1) Hair Algae in the HC from the moss tree. I did a 3 day black out but that didn't work. I may try it again in the future.

2) Green Dust Algae (GDA) on the glass and you can see the accumulation on black background. (Wondering how I should get ride of this algae? I have a guide that says I need to wait out life cycle, remove + W/C.

Finally as promised, here are some picture taken today!

>Tank Picture









> Side Picture









>Side Picture









> Newly Added Rotala Colorata & Petrfied Wood









>Close up of Rotala Colorata (Wondering why it is rooting to high?...









>Close up of petrified wood









>HC


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

To keep things simple for me, as this is my first time dosing dry fertilizers, I am going to EI dry dose KNO3, KH2PO4, and CSM+B.

Tank water volume is about 10 gallons...

My weekly dosing regime:

Monday:
1/8 Tsp-KN03
1/32 Tsp-KH2P04

Tuesday:
1/32 Tsp-CSM+B

Wednesday:
1/8 Tsp-KN03
1/32 Tsp-KH2P04

Thursday:
1/32 Tsp-CSM+B

Friday:
1/8 Tsp-KN03
1/32 Tsp-KH2P04

Saturday:
1/32 Tsp-CSM+B

Sunday:
50% Water Change

These are my target ranges:

CO2 range 25-30 ppm
NO3 range 5-30 ppm
K+ range 10-30 ppm
PO4 range 1.0-2.0 ppm
Fe 0.2-0.5ppm or higher
GH range 3-5 degrees ~ 50ppm or higher
KH range 3-5

However, I only plan on monitoring C02 & N03. I'm hoping the 50% water changes will reset my ranges preventing buildup on nutrients over time.

If anyone sees any issue with this, please let me know so I can learn and adjust my dosage.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

This morning I created a EI Dry Dosing Log to help me balance my tank. I sometimes have a hard time remembering things and this tool will aid me in finding the balance between lights, co2, and fertilizers. Interested? Take a look...

View attachment 57874


I couldn't find anything like it online although I'm sure there are tools similar. I also couldn't upload the Excel file extension so I had to make it .PDF for demonstration purposes. If you would like a copy to use I am more than happy to send you one. You can change all the variables to fit your specific aquarium and keep a log.

My dry fertilizers are coming in the mail today or tomorrow. I will start dosing next week. I think this log will help me stay on track...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I mowed the lawn yesterday. This fished got super excited. They loved it!

View attachment 58111


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## crazydaz (Mar 18, 2007)

Tyler, I like your take on Iwagumi......having a few stems in there really helps to break things up to create a few different focal points. Nice job so far, and the HC looks like it doing really well!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

crazydaz said:


> Tyler, I like your take on Iwagumi......having a few stems in there really helps to break things up to create a few different focal points. Nice job so far, and the HC looks like it doing really well!


Thanks crazydaz! I've enjoyed this plant very much. 

Starting Monday I am going to focus more on the Rotala Colorata in this tank. I want it to be able to take on its natural red color that I've seen around the forums.


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## james1542 (Sep 8, 2011)

Way to rock the biocube! Did the EI regime get the hair algae under control?


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

james1542 said:


> Way to rock the biocube! Did the EI regime get the hair algae under control?


Yeah thanks! It's to early to tell if the EI dosing is helping with the algae in this tank but once I took out the moss tree and mowed the lawn, the hair algae was virtually nonexistant. Now I just need to get ride of the algae on the back wall. I think it is helping though. Stay tuned!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Tank Makeover*

I took this tank down...

I cleaned this tank out...

I re-scaped Iwaguim Style...

And this is what I cam up with...

View attachment 59124

View attachment 59125

View attachment 59126

View attachment 59127


After starting an EI dosing regime, this tank got way out of balance and the algae got the better part of me. I am moving in a few weeks and I'd like to get a head start on this DSM.

Now, I haven't decided if I like the rock formations yet. What do you think? I figured that I can always take them out and just have a clean carpet scape. Anyways, it was time for something new.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Hello everyone,

Today I decided to re-scape yet again. The new scape has an obvious focal point, has depth, and used the odd number rule (1, 3, 5).roud:

I could really use some feedback please so if you are viewing please drop a few words. Constructive criticism is very much welcome.:icon_idea

View attachment 59312


View attachment 59314


View attachment 59316


The plan...

DSM= 2 Months: I'm moving in 1 month so not filling makes the move easier.

Flora= HC, Frogbit, and possibly some DHG in the back.
Fauna= Undecided...

Before I had trouble with GDA and GSA but it was manageable until I started dosing EI. When I started EI dosing I figured I needed more light so I turned the second light on changing my light from 50-60PAR(Medium Light) at the substrate to 100-110PAR (highlight), and that was a mistake.

This time, I am going to try and keep the algae at bay with Frogbit. The plan is to completely cover the surface of the water with this awesome plant and if I need more light I can just turn on the other light giving the tank 100-110PAR (highlight) at the substrate. Note: Of course the Frogbit will greatly reduce the actual PAR at the substrate, but that is the point. Also, I plant to start with one light and see how things respond first.:icon_wink

Please comment on this. Do you think this is a good plan?

I want to keep this tank as beautiful and simple as possible. The HC carpet has proven itself to look great and be low maintenance. I hope to have another beautiful carpet in the next few months. For now, I must focus on other things.

Thanks for looking.


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## KFryman (Sep 4, 2012)

I like the new scape, some may not cause it is seems centered, but I like it a lot!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

KFryman said:


> I like the new scape, some may not cause it is seems centered, but I like it a lot!


Yeah, that the thing about this scape. It's centered; however, it is back and to the right slightly.

I wonder how I can make it look not so centered. There isn't much room to work around in there...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Oceanic Biocube Iwaguim Shrimp Tank (Currently DSM)*

The other issue with this scape is the seiryu stones are way too small for this setup, but there isn't much I can do about that without buying larger stone; however, I can keep smaller critters in this tank and they will make the seiryu stones look bigger.

Let it be done then! I think I've decided that this is going to become my shrimp tank.

First things first, I will block the upper and lower vents in chamber 1. The best way to block the lower vent is to add substrate until it is covered. I like this method because it can be reversed rather than trying to glue screen from the front or back. Gluing screen from the front just looks bad, and I cannot get my hand all the way down the chamber to glue screen to the back. So, adding substrate until the vent is blocked sound like just the ticket.

As for the upper vent in chamber 1, I will simply glue some black screen from the back. The upper vents are easily accessible and I will still be able to use chamber 1 to hide a heater or whatever else I might need.

Now I need to decided what type of shrimp I will keep and which critters I want to add in there with them. I already have some Red Cherry Shrimp, Ghost Shrimp, and Rili Shrimp in my other 2 tanks.

Time to do some research...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

DSM=Successful so far.

The HC has transitioned from submerged to emersed very well and the leaves are full and lush.

Another 2 weeks of DSM at least!


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

I like the new layout a lot, just don't add any cardina shrimp--seiryu rocks raise the pH, GH, KH, and TDS which is not good for softwater shrimps.


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## GMYukonon24s (May 3, 2009)

Nice hardscape its simple but looks so good when it gets filled in.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Overgrowth said:


> I like the new layout a lot, just don't add any cardina shrimp--seiryu rocks raise the pH, GH, KH, and TDS which is not good for softwater shrimps.


Thank for the tip!

Honestly, I'm still debating on whether or not to go with shrimp. My girlfriend want to put this tank in the living room when we move next week. She want to put angel fish in there. If I do go with shrimp, then I will probably go with RCS for starters.



GMYukonon24s said:


> Nice hardscape its simple but looks so good when it gets filled in.


Thanks man. The emersed HC is looking very nice already. I'm starting to get excited for the fill.


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

tylergvolk said:


> Thank for the tip!
> 
> Honestly, I'm still debating on whether or not to go with shrimp. My girlfriend want to put this tank in the living room when we move next week. She want to put angel fish in there. If I do go with shrimp, then I will probably go with RCS for starters.
> 
> ...


Don't put in angelfish either. Just ONE angelfish needs at least a 29 gallon tank. Why not some ember tetras or microrasbora? And maybe some corydoras pygmaeus for the bottom (although they may rip up your HC carpet if it's not well rooted).


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Overgrowth said:


> Don't put in angelfish either. Just ONE angelfish needs at least a 29 gallon tank. Why not some ember tetras or microrasbora? And maybe some corydoras pygmaeus for the bottom (although they may rip up your HC carpet if it's not well rooted).


Oh, I didn't realize angelfish needed 30+ gallons. Well, now I have a good excuse not to get any! haha Thanks.

I was thinking about tetras because I love remmynose and cardinals but I can't seem to keep them alive. If I put fish in there, I need something more hardy. I wonder how Ember Tetras rate on the hardy scale. I love their look.


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## jarvitron (Aug 6, 2012)

If you're having issues keeping rummy nose alive you have a bigger problem that won't be solved with more fish.


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

I'd say ember tetras are pretty hardy. In fact, you rarely have a fish die nowadays if you put it in a cycled tank, regardless of pH, GH, KH, etc. This is because fish adapt really well to different parameters. I'd say try embers. My 10 year old cousin has some in her tank and they're really cool fish.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

jarvitron said:


> If you're having issues keeping rummy nose alive you have a bigger problem that won't be solved with more fish.


In the past, I think I had my flow to high for the little buggers. Plus, the vent(intake slits) were to big and the fish would get pulled into the filter. I fixes those problems once, and still had fish dying.

I could give it another go but I dunno. I lost about 100$ in fish and don't want to do this again... I just wish I knew what was wrong.



Overgrowth said:


> I'd say ember tetras are pretty hardy. In fact, you rarely have a fish die nowadays if you put it in a cycled tank, regardless of pH, GH, KH, etc. This is because fish adapt really well to different parameters. I'd say try embers. My 10 year old cousin has some in her tank and they're really cool fish.


I'll look from them next time I am in the store.

Here is my list of possible tank mates:

1)Ember Tetras
2)Cardinal Tetras
3)Remmynose Tetras
4) Otto's
5) Nerites Snails


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Update DSM 3 Weeks*

The DSM in this tank is going very well. The HC is very full and lush growing immersed. It's actually growing better and fast since the first time I did a DSM. I think it is doing better in his eco-complete because I'm using water from the old tank which has all the bacteria etc in it.

This is week 3
View attachment 61561


Close Up
View attachment 61569


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

*Tank Filled 2/27/13*

Hello everyone!

I just bought a new house about a month ago and needless to say things got busy real fast. I rehab housed for a living and there was much to be done. Now that I am settled in at the new place I have some time for my fish tanks.

I have been DSM'in HC in this tank from 12/18/12 - 2/26/13. The HC has filled in very nicely. I have some Platy fry I'm thinking about putting in here once it is cycled.

The HC has been pearling like crazy every since I filled. ( See Pictures)

View attachment 95770


View attachment 95778


View attachment 95786


I added some frog bit to help get a handle on the lighting.

My #1 Goal for this tank is to get a handle on the algae. I do not want thee algae to over take this tank like it has in the past. The tank is in our living room and is somewhat of a show piece. A good conversation starter. lol

I am following the these instruction:

*Flooding the Tank* 

Once the plants have filled in like shown above, it's time to fill the tank with water. Once the water is filled, CO2 injection is required and needs to be kept very high for 2 weeks close to 5 bubbles per second (bps). Afterward, bring it down to 3bps. Setup lights as per the plants requirements. (Cuba is not a very light demanding plant). Setup filter that you have decided on using. If you are using nutrient rich substrate like ADA Amazonia II, follow the below light and water change routine.

*Week 1:* 3 Hrs of Light , 50 % Water change once in 3 Days
*Week 2:* 5 Hrs of Light , 30 % Water change once in 3 Days
*Week 3:* 7 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week
*Week 4:* 9 Hrs of Light , 30% Water change once a week

Your tank is completely cycled after this stage and if you follow the above routine you will have minimal algae issues except for some diatom algae during the first 2 weeks on the glass which is easily wiped off during your water changes.

*NOTE:* A correct combination of amount of Light , CO2 and nutrients is required to keep a planted tank free of algae bloom. In most cases it is excessive light that causes the problem. Keep your lighting moderate and you will have minimal algae issues.

*Added Notes: * This method can be used to grow aquatic plants even in small tubs and kept outdoors such that it gets diffused sunlight. You will have your very own supply of plants for your tanks when you need them. I hope people will benefit from this article as I did and have fun creating such scapes.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I'm trying really hard to keep this tank balanced. The HC is going through a transition period. I can see parts of it turning dark green. I also found some hair algae in a small area.

I added:

-4 Platy Fry
-3 Ottos
-4 Ghost Shrimp

I put a ton of Frogbit and Water Lettuce in this tank to cut the lighting back. I have one light on during the day at 50- 60 par for 4 hours. I'm hoping this transition period will just phase out and the algae will go away.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

While trying to keep algae at bay, my HC has died off considerably in the last four weeks. I had the light at 50 PAR on for 4 hours a day. At first, I thought the HC was going through a transition stage, but yesterday I added 20 RCS and they ate all the dead/dark green leaves and now it looks like a barren waste land...

I have turned the lighting up to 7 hours 50 PAR in hopes to revive my HC that I worked so hard to get nice and lush. Needless to say, I am really bummed out about this...

Do you think the HC will come back?

Here is a picture of what it looks like now. The bare parts in the front at all roots and no leafs. :icon_frow

View attachment 112482


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## griffin_pak (Jul 21, 2008)

hope it got better!


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

It never got better. Most of the HC died out...


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Tank has been taken down and is for sale.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Sold for $100 without stand.


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