# Help me out, change H20 often or not?



## frostby (Sep 22, 2006)

I am new(to posting, not trolling) to this forum - So, HI Everyone...

For those who are running a successful low tech planted, with mostly DIY stuff, I would really love to hear what is best for my fish and plants.

Because of this forum, I have upgraded my lighting to 2 T10 32W 4ft lights, on a 55gal tank, built my own CO2 PVC reactor, tried painting the back of my tank wall(that - a whole new post right there), and built my own hood to hide the mess. Bought GW ferts, and the list goes on.

But to the point, WATER CHANGES, I hear do them, I hear don't do - just top off the water.

My tank grows crypts, duckweed, and BBA fine, not so fine amazon swords, and weak looking vals. I have recently started fertilizing potassium.

If you were in my shoes, and wanted MINIMAL ALGAE, and healthiest possible looking plants, crystal clear water(which is also hard due to lack of surface aggitation, driftwood, and maybe more) What is everybody else doing - who's happy with their lowtech setups?


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

I have a set up similar to yours (or did until I upgraded to 3- 40 watt bulbs) and never could get my sword to grow well... I think it was light issues. I moved it to a high natural light tank, and it took off wonderfully.

If you have a lot of duckweed, it will shadow your other plants. You may need to thin it down.

My best tank had some natural morning sun light, a fine mist of co2, and didn't dose any ferts. I had a big break out of green thread algae on the wall that the sun hit at first, but it cleared up when I added the DIY co2 and the plants started growing in well. I only topped off this system and did about a 25% water change about once every two to three months to replace trace minerals and such that the plants had taken out.

(ramble-ramble-ramble)

In any case, I am one for infrequent water changes and pretty much just do a water change if the nitrates are running a little more than the plants can keep down (as in the case of my angel tank -- they eat all the plants).


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## Brilliant (Apr 11, 2006)

Do you have fish? What kind?


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## saint27 (Apr 27, 2006)

I would say from what my reading in this forum has taught me. If you add CO2 do water changes, if not then do them less frequently.


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## Naja002 (Oct 12, 2005)

I am wondering where the bba has come from.....Are you doing water changes?

If so, then either add C02 or stop doing frequent WCs.

In a non-C02 tank--bba comes from the rapid increase--followed by the rapid decrease of C02 that occurs with the new water. That favors algae--not plants.

If you have high and consistant levels of C02---bba should not be a problem with WCs.

Plus with the duckweed--your light levels are probably a lot lower than you think. You are already well under 1 w/gal. without anything blocking the light---, and that's not factoring in the "Quality" of the reflectors.

If it were me, I would: Eliminate the duckweed, increase lighting to 1.5-2w/gal, add C02, dose weekly and do WCs every 2 weeks or so....

Hope this Helps


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Naja002 said:


> If it were me, I would: Eliminate the duckweed, increase lighting to 1.5-2w/gal, add C02, dose weekly and do WCs every 2 weeks or so....


Of course... that does kinda get out of the paramaters of a 'Low Tech Tank'. LOL :flick:


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## frostby (Sep 22, 2006)

Oh boy! You guys aren't making this an eas decision for me. I have 5 fish in the tank now. 2 cichlids, 1 jack dempsey, and 1 firemouth, 1 reg pleco... They were adopted...and the poor cichlids - are stuck with living in a planted tank LOL...

You confuse me a little with the lighting. if I have the equivalent of 80W NO flourescent - that puts me at less than 1 WPG? I have room to add an additional 4ft T8bulb. Will that help, or would it be a waste of $$?

I have been adding DIY CO2 via inline reactor. Would it be BETTER for me to remove it, and have a CONSTANT low CO2 level, or stay with it and have it fluctuate +-10ppm for a day or two every 3 weeks?

As fancy as these 3+WPG tanks are, I really can't afford to give 1/2 hour every other day in maintenance, not to mention purchasing a $300 light.

I do water changes, some weeks better than others, but basically I pull out 1/4 to 1/5 of the water level and replace it with new... It seems to help with the yellowish tint.. .that may come from my driftwood?

I've had BBA and a combination with Brown algae in all my tanks from my first 5gallon guppy tank with a 10W bulb to a goldfish bowl(as a kid), and a 45g tall, my x-35 hex. All these tanks were around before I discovered the forums and knew about co2, lights, and fertilizers. I guess I am a natural BBA grower. I think if I knew how to make cookies, there would be BBA on that too!!!!

I like the low tech - just wish I could have the benefits fo a high tech!

But thanks all who have replied, so far. Keep up the advice. I'm quite impressed with this forum, the average user here seems much more knowledgeable than some of the 'other' forums

ps..consider the duckweed gone - easier said than done LOL!


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

I acctually grow duckweed and then give it to my angels as a special treat. I would have though with chiclids you wouldn't have any.... but maybe my angels are just particularly vishious with plants. (They will eat a stem of anacharis in a few days, and view all money-wort as their favorite dessert.)

I am certainly NOT an expert, especially with the high tech tanks, but have had several very successful low techs.
That said, I would personally add the 3rd light if you have the room and money for it, slightly reduce your ferts, and go with a smaller water changes less often. Maybe it would also be helpful to de-gas your water change water before adding it to the tank.

If your water yellows too much, it may be the wood, and it should eventually stop leaching so much. (I have also learned recently, that if you tank looks too yellow, you might try getting higher K bulbs. I did, and my tank looks so much crisper.)

Oh, and another help might be to run two co2 reactors. I have two on my 55 and start them 2 weeks apart... that way I have a much less significant variation of co2 when I have to re-start one.


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## tritan (Feb 11, 2005)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/low-tech-forum/35253-who-says-low-tech-cant-look.html

Look at these pics from this thread. No ferts, just light and weekly water changes. CO is introduced in a low tech tank by regular small water changes. If you want more co this more freq small water changes other wise a 2-30 percent change a week is all that was done with these tanks.


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## frostby (Sep 22, 2006)

Since I am most of the way through making my new hood, I will add more light. I have 2 options here... please offer your preference.

1. Add 1 additional T8 32W 4ft bulb

or

2. Add 2 Compact FL 15 watt screw in type bulbs

Would 1 benefit me more than the other and still allow my minimal CO2, ferts, and water changes...

Thanks for all your help - I really do appreciate everyone's advice.!


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

That is deffinitly out of my league as to which would be better, but it might be good to check the kelvins available and costs of lights. If they give you the same output, I would guess it would be better to go with the lower cost. But I imagine several people here are better able to give you input on that.


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## frostby (Sep 22, 2006)

The screw in bulbs - definatly have a higher "intensity" for lack of the proper term, compared to the T8. Would either make a considerable difference when determining how many WPG I would have....?

And TAF CAF, I appreciate your input and your honesty.... thanks .. really!


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

Screw in bulbs have a notorious amount of re-strike (wasted light due to hitting the bulb again). They can be used, but are not as effecient at getting light into the water.


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## Naja002 (Oct 12, 2005)

> You confuse me a little with the lighting. if I have the equivalent of 80W NO flourescent - that puts me at less than 1 WPG?


Apologies, my Thinking was Faulty on that.



> Of course... that does kinda get out of the paramaters of a 'Low Tech Tank'. LOL


Maybe so, but it still offers the benefits of "Low-Light"--which is what I think most people looking at "Low-Tech" are actually seeking: Low Setup and Operational Costs/Maintenance/Hassle:



> As fancy as these 3+WPG tanks are, I really can't afford to give 1/2 hour every other day in maintenance, not to mention purchasing a $300 light.




On a 55g, 2 1g jugs of DIY C02 should be no problem, unless its just more work than You want to keep up with. It should not gas Your fish and should put out enough C02 to prevent BBA. And with the Low- Light you should only need to dose about once/wk and WC about every 2 wks or so.....



> I like the low tech - just wish I could have the benefits fo a high tech!


There Ya go......Re-read above. On my tanks: Maintenance is less, Dosing is less, WCs are less, but they are still beautiful, algae-free and grow the plants at a slow steady rate. "Low-Tech" / "Low-Light": Mostly semantics. Not completely, but Mostly.





> Oh, and another help might be to run two co2 reactors. I have two on my 55 and start them 2 weeks apart... that way I have a much less significant variation of co2 when I have to re-start one.


That's the Ticket. Just use 1g Gatorade/Mott's Apple Juice/Etc jugs. I use: 6 cups sugar, 1 Tbsp Baking soda and 1/2 Tsp. yeast.




> but it might be good to check the kelvins available and costs of lights.


Sound Advice. The SCFs are available at Walmart in "Sunlight" which is 6,700K--they would work fine. But, if you go with the CF, its the Watt output that counts--Not the equal to. 26w=100w incadescent--Its the 26w that counts.



> 2. Add 2 Compact FL 15 watt screw in type bulbs


You can always consider the 13w kits at AHSupply.com. Since You are building Your own hood--The cost shouldn't be too bad. 

I use some SCF and they work.

You may also want to consider what plants You choose.....Fast-growing stem plants are always going to be more work than slower growers. Plants that don't grow as Tall--generally require less pruning/maintenance/effort.

Hope this Helps


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## frostby (Sep 22, 2006)

I guess that just about covers all the unanswered questions.. .thanks!


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

I'd just add another T8 bulb otr two e ballast are cheap for these etc or leave it and add a nice aluminum reflector or both.

That will not cost much, 4x 32 w lightinging is plenty.

Watwer changes: once a week 50% and dose 2x a week, about 1/3 teaspoon of KNO3 , 1/8 KH2PO4, 1/2 teaspoon GH booster, 5-8 mls of traces.

Dose right after water change and then once mid week.
That's about it.

Crank CO2.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## frostby (Sep 22, 2006)

Thanks Tom, I thought this forum had run out of energy, you sneak one very helpful(kick in the pants) post - and that's what I need!


Thank you for not being 'too big' for me!


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

Everyone starts out the same.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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