# DIY c02 help



## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

i setup my diy c02 and im using a cigarette filter as my diffuser. im concerned that im not getting any c02 into my water. my bubbles float up to where my HOB filter falls in and blows the bubbles all over the water. i can see my aquarium ful of little specs from the c02. also on the top i see bubbles accumilated on the surface. am i getting any c02 in here or should i be uing another form of diffusion. plz help and thank you


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

Research surface film, maybe more about biofilms and yes, you need to find a better diffuser. I I'm impressed seeing that your yeast put out a good amount of pressure. It certainly looks as if it's more then capable of providing CO2. I didn't catch what size planted tank you're using?


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> Research surface film, maybe more about biofilms and yes, you need to find a better diffuser. I I'm impressed seeing that your yeast put out a good amount of pressure. It certainly looks as if it's more then capable of providing CO2. I didn't catch what size planted tank you're using?



its a 20 gallon long and yea its got plenty of pressure lol the stuff explodes a huge stream of tiny bubbles everywhere. I plugged the tube with the cigarette filter and the bubbles are tiny i guess not small enough? im gonna search the biofilm stuff im new to the c02 thing so im feeling a bit overwhelmed


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

"Sprite water" as it is called, is normal with any co2 set-up that relies on a diffuser. You have yours in an ideal place, under the HOB output. The current works to further distribute the co2 bubbles throughout the tank, and in the process, keep the bubbles in contact with the water longer before they reach the surface and pop.

Cigarette filters make decent diffusers for diy, as does a small piece of chopstick, or a piece or regular cotton ball stuffed tightly in the line. You may want to try all of these and see which one gives you the finest bubbles. The smaller bubbles you can create, the better.

Ive tried all three and my order of preference goes chopstick > cotton > cig filter.

The only way to have zero bubbles is with 100% dissolution, meaning the co2 is completely dissolved in the water before it enters the tank. Diffusers dont do that. Reactors do, but you need a canister filter to run them. Aquaclear HOB filters can also give you 100% dissolution, due to their unique design. Use a chopstick or cotton ball in the line to pre-duffuse, then run it straight into the intake tube.

Other HOBs, any cartridge types, dont work because the co2 off-gasses in the water chamber at the back.

Here's one of my tanks using a chopstick, Aquaclear 20, and diy co2 @ 2 bps. Tank is a 20H. Any bubbles you see are from the plants pearling, zero are coming from the filter.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

My tank looks like sprite after photoperiod haha! It's not co2 though.

Assuming you let the co2 run constantly, check your pH in your tank. Then pull a tank water sample and let it sit for 24 hours to outgas co2 and check the pH of this water. If test #1 is a lower ph than test #2 you're getting co2 in your water.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> "Sprite water" as it is called, is normal with any co2 set-up that relies on a diffuser. You have yours in an ideal place, under the HOB output. The current works to further distribute the co2 bubbles throughout the tank, and in the process, keep the bubbles in contact with the water longer before they reach the surface and pop.
> 
> Cigarette filters make decent diffusers for diy, as does a small piece of chopstick, or a piece or regular cotton ball stuffed tightly in the line. You may want to try all of these and see which one gives you the finest bubbles. The smaller bubbles you can create, the better.
> 
> ...



I love your 20g it has beautiful growth. And youve given me some helpful advice thank you so much btw i just planted some dwarf baby tears i see you have a lush carpet do you think theyll be fine in my tank. Ive got 3 13watt 6500k cfl bulbs hung from those clamp lights you get at hardware stores with the chrome reflectors. That along with my c02 excell you think theyll be ok i keep hearing theure very hard to take care of. The rest of my plants are low to med plants

Bump:


Dead2fall said:


> My tank looks like sprite after photoperiod haha! It's not co2 though.
> 
> Assuming you let the co2 run constantly, check your pH in your tank. Then pull a tank water sample and let it sit for 24 hours to outgas co2 and check the pH of this water. If test #1 is a lower ph than test #2 you're getting co2 in your water.


Well that was an obvious way to figure out of im getting c02 in lol i feel slow. How much of a ph drop is normal for c02 aquariums


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## Maechael (Sep 9, 2012)

Invest in a cheap drop checker, or do one of the DIY variants perhaps?
It would give you a much closer to real time answer about co2 levels.

Air stones can work, as well as the other methods.

How many bottles of what size are you running?
If multiples are they plumbed for easy exchange when the run their course?


Secondary option bell style diffusing, cut clear plastic container to hold the co2 in place until it dissolves fully?


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

Maechael said:


> Invest in a cheap drop checker, or do one of the DIY variants perhaps?
> It would give you a much closer to real time answer about co2 levels.
> 
> Air stones can work, as well as the other methods.
> ...


Im using a 2 litre soda bottle going into a 1litre water bottle and into the tank. i was just planning on making a new mixture when it started running out with the same bottle. Is this a mistake i keep reading dif things on that topic. Also my mix is 3 cups sugar with 2 tsp yeast 2 tsp baking soda. i hear the baking soda helps buffer ph idk how that works. My tap water has a ph of like 7.8


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## Maechael (Sep 9, 2012)

No experience but heard the bakimg soda thing too.
my thoughts on the multiple bottles is it allows you to replace a waning bottle with a fresh one on a biweekly basis. 2 bottles, filled halfway to 3/4s with check valves plumbed in to stop back gassing, or mixing of tank water to co2.


Currently debating whether or not to restart my DIY setup for my 55.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

delgado4604 said:


> I love your 20g it has beautiful growth. And youve given me some helpful advice thank you so much btw i just planted some dwarf baby tears i see you have a lush carpet do you think theyll be fine in my tank. Ive got 3 13watt 6500k cfl bulbs hung from those clamp lights you get at hardware stores with the chrome reflectors. That along with my c02 excell you think theyll be ok i keep hearing theure very hard to take care of. The rest of my plants are low to med plants


Im using two of those same type lights, bulbs are 18 watt, 5000K. 










My tank is taller than yours, and you have three lights, so I would think the 13 watt bulbs would be about right. I had 23 watt bulbs for a while but they were a bit too much. You can always lower the fixtures to get more light if you need it. In my experience, HC needs good CO2 more than anything, medium light is usually plenty.



delgado4604 said:


> Im using a 2 litre soda bottle going into a 1litre water bottle and into the tank. i was just planning on making a new mixture when it started running out with the same bottle. Is this a mistake i keep reading dif things on that topic. Also my mix is 3 cups sugar with 2 tsp yeast 2 tsp baking soda. i hear the baking soda helps buffer ph idk how that works. My tap water has a ph of like 7.8


Maintaining a consistent CO2 level from one day to the next is very important. It can be especially challenging with a DIY set up. The question is not how much can you do, it's how steady can you keep it?

It's best to have multiple bottles on staggered start/change times. You'd be better off using two reactor bottles, changing out one per week for example. That's what I do on the 20 gal. I have two 1.89 liter Juicy juice bottles, and change out one per week. The recipe I use runs steady for almost two weeks, so changing one per week works out perfect.

That seems like an awful lot of yeast in your recipe. I found that higher amounts of yeast can equal a lot more CO2, but it only lasts a few days before a drastic reduction. 

What I do in a 2 liter bottle is 2 cups sugar, 1/2 tsp yeast, 1 tsp baking soda. For me that produces a solid 1 bubble per second for almost two weeks. So with two bottles I can stay right at 2 bps all the time.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

Maechael said:


> No experience but heard the bakimg soda thing too.
> my thoughts on the multiple bottles is it allows you to replace a waning bottle with a fresh one on a biweekly basis. 2 bottles, filled halfway to 3/4s with check valves plumbed in to stop back gassing, or mixing of tank water to co2.
> 
> 
> Currently debating whether or not to restart my DIY setup for my 55.


oh yea i have a check in and my bottles are above my aquarium anyways. Only annoying thing about diy for me isnt even the mix i have to make since it last me a while. its the fact that i have to remove the tube manually to stop the c02 when the lights are off. I dont have a switch i can turn to close the gas or a timer i can have it on to match my lights that blows... i cant imagine diy on anything bigger then 20g its just too much id rather spend the money for a system at that point


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

delgado4604 said:


> i cant imagine diy on anything bigger then 20g its just too much id rather spend the money for a system at that point


I ran DIY on my 75 gal for a while with good success, using up to four 3 liter bottles :icon_eek: There's a link in my sig describing the build. It may offer you some additional food for thought.


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## Maechael (Sep 9, 2012)

OP I never removed mine, I gave enough for use not enough to choke so even night time usage was minimal and left constant. After a while concerns arose without fatalities and an airstone was put in to increase surface movement at night, and the pump was unplugged during the day.

Best of luck.


BUR740 well I have new material to read now, thanks.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Thanks, Maechael 

Yeah most people doing DIY just let it run 24/7. It's rare that you'll ever generate enough to worry about gassing livestock.


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## Maechael (Sep 9, 2012)

Shrimp and ottos being the exception to the rule from what I've read, guess they gas easily enough.


Upvote the multi bottle approach, makes life more consistent when scheduled exchanges are made.


Also when you remove the line from the water you deplete pressure build up, making each bottle less potent every time. Try using two single bottles, one seperate and always in, the other take out at night see which one produces more consistent fine mistings of co2 after 3 days.



Hope to help OP, and if I'm coming off as preachy or bossy just tell me to shut it


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

Burr740's way of connecting air hose using check valves and the airstone connectors is inspired. If you crumble away the outside of an old airstone they have a connector inside that could be repurposed in the same way. I went with a small bulkhead I found online, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG849&P=ML. If I had thought of airline connectors, I would known more about them. They both provide a mechanical seal to prevent air loss at the attachment and that is what's important. Eliminating attachments and gas separators, eliminated potential problems, IME. 

I also ran CO2 through a powerhead. Small micro-bubbles are the goal and they really don't rise to the surface as much as they drift in the water flow. The powerhead can be shut off at night to lower the ppm and turned on a few hours before the lights come on but a lot of very nice tanks run CO2 24/7. I think starting out it's important not to forget about maintaining good O2 levels in the rush to add CO2.

As far as yeast mixtures, I've always wanted to see if fermenting cabbage could produce enough CO2 to keep a tank at around 15ppm. Some yeast are more tolerant of ethanol and provide co2 longer when pampered. After a week or so, not all gas yeast produce is CO2, particularly after a few weeks and most of the time I changed mine after a few weeks only because I was putting it off. Still, it didn't seem to matter once the plants were doing better and the fresh mix would start fermenting by the next day, most of the time.

IME, the size of the generator is important. I used a 1 gallon soft sided container for a 20 gallon tank and switched it out with a new one after 2-3 weeks. I never had a problem running only one bottle at a time but my bottle was the size as several smaller ones. I kept it under the tank stand. It had one check valve and ran to a modified powerhead. A lot of really good DIY power-heads. Some easy and some not so easy.

I've subscribed to burr740's "DIY CO2" post because it's awesome. 


burr740 said:


> Lighting is obviously important, but most important is to have the right amount, as in, enough but not too much. Tons of plants out there that will thrive under low to medium lighting (what I have) and no CO2.


This is key - understanding the balancing act between light and CO2.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

Wow sooo much info brought on from actual experience. Thank you all youve given me a lot to think about. hopefully you guys are still following this thread.Burr740 youve given me a bit more confidence on my lighting situation with my HC. Im thinking about looking for a canister filter or that aquaclear to get that 100% dissolution. Also from what im picking up on i can leave my c02 running 24/7? With my mix of 3 cups sugar 2 tsp yeast and baking soda i get 2bps until i sink the line into my tank then i start to see 1 bps i guess cause of the pressure. Does that sound right? Im counting the bubbles i see in the gas seperater bottle that only has water. I have ottos and cherry shrimp in this tank and i dont want to gas them out whats your take on this is it safe to run 24/7


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

One thing, I think you need to use less yeast because the solution will last longer and be more consistent. 1 bps all the time is better than 3 for a few days, then 2 for a few days, then 1, then back to 3, etc. It's good that you have a bubble counter bottle, because it allows you to see exactly what the system is producing. The moment you see it slow down means it's time for a new batch (gotta maintain that consistent rate).

As for being safe to run 24/7, I _think_ so, but all bubbles are not created equal. 2 bps for me may not be the same as for you. So you'll just have to try it and see. One thing you could do instead of removing the co2 line, is add an airstone set on a timer to run during the night, up until maybe an hour or two before lights come on. That would off-gas a lot of the co2, and also help oxygenate the water to a certain degree.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

You can monitor you CO2 levels more simply using pH and following hoppy's math.


Hoppy said:


> A 0.7 drop in pH due to CO2 means the ppm of CO2 in the water went up by a factor of 10 to the .7 power, or about a factor of 5. Assuming the water had 3 ppm before the CO2 was added, you would have about 15 ppm of CO2 now.


It is hard to go over 15ppm with DIY CO2 because the yeast set the bubble rate. A double gang air valve to shunt off CO2 or turning off the powerhead are some of the ways.

Any efficient method for dissolving CO2 can provide a good amount for the plants. Growth can be 2-3x faster then w/out CO2, under the same low-light condition. I do not think it matters if it's on 24/7. I can say it doesn't effect growth when CO2 levels drop at night but there are also some nice looking tanks that run it 24/7.

In both cases the goal is to have it stay stable after the lights come on.
Hoppy shows how to make a DIY internal Reactor. I've seen versions of it that are extremely efficient.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

burr740 said:


> One thing you could do instead of removing the co2 line, is add an airstone set on a timer to run during the night, up until maybe an hour or two before lights come on. That would off-gas a lot of the co2, and also help oxygenate the water to a certain degree.


 Rather then an air stone for gassing off CO2, I've started using a corner filter I run 24/7. The air valve to the corner filter is almost closed but the back pressure is released by opening the other valve and adjusting them both. Regulate air stones in the same way and prolong the life of the air pump.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> You can monitor you CO2 levels more simply using pH and following hoppy's math.
> 
> It is hard to go over 15ppm with DIY CO2 because the yeast set the bubble rate. A double gang air valve to shunt off CO2 or turning off the powerhead are some of the ways.
> 
> ...




i just did a ph test. my tap water is 7.6-7.8 and in my tank the water was down to 6.8-7.0 i feel like thats a big drop is this good? im guessing im getting a good amount of c02. i did this test about an hour after a water change so my drift wood wouldnt really have much of a part in the ph drop.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

There is a good amount of dissolved CO2 in tap water. If you ran tap water right to the tank during a water change, I would expect the tank water would have 15-30ppm of CO2 after the WC. That is why a good day to swap out a yeast generator is on, when you only have one generator or not, WC day.

Continue taking pH samples and see if you maintain that same drop in pH during the day throughout the week. If you use a tank sample that sits for over 24 hours the sample would account for any wood but tap water thats sat out for that amount of time is going to be close to the same pH anyway. Ruffly, at a quick glance, 15ppm of CO2 is what your pH suggests you have after your WC.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> There is a good amount of dissolved CO2 in tap water. If you ran tap water right to the tank during a water change, I would expect the tank water would have 15-30ppm of CO2 after the WC. That is why a good day to swap out a yeast generator is on, when you only have one generator or not, WC day.
> 
> Continue taking pH samples and see if you maintain that same drop in pH during the day throughout the week. If you use a tank sample that sits for over 24 hours the sample would account for any wood but tap water thats sat out for that amount of time is going to be close to the same pH anyway. Ruffly, at a quick glance, 15ppm of CO2 is what your pH suggests you have after your WC.



what youre saying is prob true but i dont think its such in my area. i have 2 tanks. when i do a wc on my 10 gallon which has no c02 and some begginer plants it reads 7.8 ph. i did my wc on both tanks today and the 10g was up at 7.8 while my 20g was at 6.8 an hour after wc. i do 25% on each tank. im still going to monitor the ph like youre saying in case theres a flaw in what im doing. but now idk if i should still lower my yeast amount in the mix since 15ppm c02 isnt much? what ppm is overkill and bothers fish and how do you calculate the ph drop to c02


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

Some CO2 will remain in the tank water as well, MMV. Say it's at 15 ppm and you maintain that 15, the plants will adapt to the low-light and use the available CO2. You could run this system 24/7. The same if it were 20 ppm CO2. Nice, steady CO2 rates everyday. If your yeast sustain that level, over a two week period, you're good to go. Start working on an internal reactor. Now you might find an additional drop in pH, another few degrees of CO2 maybe. A reactor is more efficient so it's likely. Now say you maintain 25ppm under low light. No problem. If you get a full degree drop, you will notice fish are more sensitive to BOD and available O2. At 30-45ppm CO2 can start to be a hazard kept 24/7, I would think. 

If you add less yeast to your mix (and yes I think you should try), you should still be able to sustain a relatively high fermentation rate. This is were I think larger fermentors play a roll but when you start a culture, you really don't need a lot. With only one bottle you'll need to use a few tricks and maybe a little more yeast. If yeast are well cared for they'll end up with a large population, soon enough overcrowded in their own waste.

They slow down and change gears, producing less CO2. The more you start with the sooner they reach overcrowding but you'll be on top of it because you checked and didn't see the same drop in pH that day.

I'll look again but I thought burr740 had a good yeast recipe.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> Some CO2 will remain in the tank water as well, MMV. Say it's at 15 ppm and you maintain that 15, the plants will adapt to the low-light and use the available CO2. You could run this system 24/7. The same if it were 20 ppm CO2. Nice, steady CO2 rates everyday. If your yeast sustain that level, over a two week period, you're good to go. Start working on an internal reactor. Now you might find an additional drop in pH, another few degrees of CO2 maybe. A reactor is more efficient so it's likely. Now say you maintain 25ppm under low light. No problem. If you get a full degree drop, you will notice fish are more sensitive to BOD and available O2. At 30-45ppm CO2 can start to be a hazard kept 24/7, I would think.
> 
> If you add less yeast to your mix (and yes I think you should try), you should still be able to sustain a relatively high fermentation rate. This is were I think larger fermentors play a roll but when you start a culture, you really don't need a lot. With only one bottle you'll need to use a few tricks and maybe a little more yeast. If yeast are well cared for they'll end up with a large population, soon enough overcrowded in their own waste.
> 
> ...



we both use diy on a 20g with similiar lighting. He uses 2 cups sugar 1/2 tsp yeast 1tsp baking soda in 2 2litre generators so if i use 1 id use 1 full tsp yeast instead. in theory the more sugar you have the longer it takes them to eat through all of it right? the c02 output will be the same but will last longer with more sugar? i still dont know what the baking sodas purpose is. Im going to try 1tsp yeast next mixture. btw thanks for all the help ive gotten a lot of things clarified on this thread.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

Most wine yeast prefer a pH of around 5.2 to be at their best. Others might prefer something higher. I don't think it's much higher but I can't find my notes on that. Your DIY does not seem to need the added baking soda - maybe if a fermentation crashes inside of a week it might. I don't add baking soda but the water I use has a good amount of carbonate hardness. I did add a phosphate based pH stabilizer. It may or may not have been needed. Something like this, http://www.thegrape.net/browse.cfm/ph-stabilizer-1-lb/4,12191.html

What I do recommend, is using fish tank water when you mix a new batch. 
Adding water and sugar at ruffly a 4:1 ratio.

For a gallon size container (4L), I added 1/2 teaspoon of wine yeast and I mix everything together with some of the old sludge from the last fermentation, MMV. Wine yeast stops growing at ruffly 25% ethanol, allowing for more sugar in a recipe and longer fermentations.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

delgado4604 said:


> … in theory the more sugar you have the longer it takes them to eat through all of it right? the c02 output will be the same but will last longer with more sugar?


 Not really. In most DIY's the ethanol wast will slow down the fermentation before the remaining sugars are used.

Vintners look for a finish to the wine we don't need to be concerned with but the variance of other gasses increases at higher ethanol levels, if I remember correctly. That's important if after a few weeks the bubble rate seems the same, maybe a little slower but the pH test shows a marked change in your water column's CO2. Then, you're a day late starting your new batch of yeast even if there's unused sugar left behind.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

delgado4604 said:


> in theory the more sugar you have the longer it takes them to eat through all of it right? the c02 output will be the same but will last longer with more sugar?


 Water volume is also part of the equation. To elaborate on what Tug said, as the alcohol concentration builds up, it begins to kill off the yeast. Bakers yeast has an alcohol tolerance around 11%. Wine yeast can tolerate up to around 18%. When the alcohol content reaches those levels the yeast begins to die.

That's why you cant simply add more sugar and make it run twice as long. Or add more yeast for twice the production -> Unless you also increase the water volume to keep the alcohol diluted longer <- More yeast will mean more co2, for a shorter amount of time. More sugar will only mean there'll be unused sugar left in the mix after the yeast dies.

Id be surprised if your 2 liter recipe ran for more than 3-4 days before slowing down rapidly. Notice I didnt say stop, you'll still see bubbles being produced, perhaps for weeks, but at a progressively slower rate. The last thing you want is up and down co2 levels, from one day to the next. That will cause you more problems than benefits every time. A nice big algae farm for one thing. It's critical with DIY to maintain a constant, steady rate over the long haul. Which is why I said this, earlier



burr740 said:


> ...you need to use less yeast because the solution will last longer and be more consistent.* 1 bps all the time is better than 3 for a few days, then 2 for a few days, then 1, then back to 3, etc. *It's good that you have a bubble counter bottle, because it allows you to see exactly what the system is producing. *The moment you see it slow down means it's time for a new batch.*


I dont know about you, but I'd rather not have to make a new bottle every other day. Find a recipe that lasts a couple weeks, or close to it (by "last" I mean run steady before slowing down at all) Mine works for me, you should experiment with different ratios and see what works best for you. 

I think you'll save yourself a whole lot of time and trouble though, to start with way less yeast than 2 tsp, or even 1. Google diy co2 recipes, you'll find dozens of them. You'll also find that most of them recommend between 1/4 to 1/2 tsp of yeast for 2 liters of water.

If you need more co2, dont try to get it by adding more yeast. Add another reactor bottle to your system. Using using multiple bottles, with staggered start times is a lot more efficient than trying to get it all out of one. While one bottle begins to slowly wind down, there's always another bottle kicking full strength. It is easier to maintain a steady rate, and a lot more forgiving when one bottle starts to drop off a little.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> Water volume is also part of the equation. To elaborate on what Tug said, as the alcohol concentration builds up, it begins to kill off the yeast. Bakers yeast has an alcohol tolerance around 11%. Wine yeast can tolerate up to around 18%. When the alcohol content reaches those levels the yeast begins to die.
> 
> That's why you cant simply add more sugar and make it run twice as long. Or add more yeast for twice the production -> Unless you also increase the water volume to keep the alcohol diluted longer <- More yeast will mean more co2, for a shorter amount of time. More sugar will only mean there'll be unused sugar left in the mix after the yeast dies.
> 
> ...



that was explained very well. yea im gonna lower the dose to under 1tsp i just hope nothing goes wrong since ive been pumping my aquarium with this high yeast mix i did. also im hoping i can get enough c02 with 1 bottle to grow my HC otherwhise ill end up adding a second bottle and staggering them like you said and keep things nice and steady. you guys really know your stuff lol btw this mix is actually on day 4 still going at 2bps as i type. onve it begins to slow ill change the mix


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Yeah I mean, you may find the current recipe lasts long enough to justify using it. If it runs steady for 6-7 days you may be fine just doing what you're doing and making a new bottle once a week. 

Consistency is the key. It doesnt really matter how you achieve it.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> Yeah I mean, you may find the current recipe lasts long enough to justify using it. If it runs steady for 6-7 days you may be fine just doing what you're doing and making a new bottle once a week.
> 
> Consistency is the key. It doesnt really matter how you achieve it.




Well tyty for all your help  btw what do you think about my aquascape lol i tried a rate my aquascape thread but not a lot of responses i want some criticism on it things that look good and things that dont choice of plants and fish etc. i want to have an aquarium that looks commercial one day and i know i need to train my green thumb for that but my scaping is a start


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

I think the left side is stunning! I also like the beach, but there's a little too much of it...or something. It may be tough to change at this point, but I think it'd look better if you continued the black substrate on over to the right, along the back portion of the tank. Sortof at an angle so the beach would become a sloping triangular shape up front, rather than such a harsh square cut-off.

Two different color lines here, something like this is what I mean.











But it's fine the way it is, and will only look better as the plants fill in. You could always add a rock or two to the back right side, to maybe soften the blow, so to speak. Also looks you have a little hair grass or something started in the front beach area. So that will change up the look of things as well.

The left-most rock in the back I think could use some moss or plants attached to it, and maybe the smaller rock in front of it too. 

Really just splitting hairs at this point though. That's a pretty fantastic start, looks a helluva lot better than my first aquascape.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> I think the left side is stunning! I also like the beach, but there's a little too much of it...or something. It may be tough to change at this point, but I think it'd look better if you continued the black substrate on over to the right, along the back portion of the tank. Sortof at an angle so the beach would become a sloping triangular shape up front, rather than such a harsh square cut-off.
> 
> Two different color lines here, something like this is what I mean.
> 
> ...




I like both the ideas you gave on how to split the sand i might do that when i start to get some decent growth. I put moss on each of those rocks to the left i just didnt have enough so i kinda spread it thin by that area lol gotta wait for it to grow in. Well see how it all fills in hopefully the growth will move into the sand a bit to change the appearance of the sand being too much. Thanks for the feedback!


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## aeroghost (Mar 17, 2014)

tug said:


> Burr740's way of connecting air hose using check valves and the airstone connectors is inspired. If you crumble away the outside of an old airstone they have a connector inside that could be repurposed in the same way. I went with a small bulkhead I found online, http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG849&P=ML. If I had thought of airline connectors, I would known more about them. They both provide a mechanical seal to prevent air loss at the attachment and that is what's important. Eliminating attachments and gas separators, eliminated potential problems, IME.


I have actually used those same bulkheads and found that they do provide a good mechanical seal with no leaks however the smaller diameter on the bulkhead restricts the flow into the tank more than using a single piece of tubing that may leak a little. 

Also I have used a ton of different diffusers for a DIY Co2 system. The one that works best for me is the white Top Fin airstones that Petsmart has. They work good on the lower pressure of a DIY CO2 system. I also tried a few other brands of air stones as a diffuser with no luck. They are not all the same.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

They do make a larger version. I'll go back to correct my notes to include the larger 1/8" size they sell but I never had any trouble with the smaller size. It depends on the ID of the tubing not the bulkhead's ID. Some tubing will fit the smaller size more snug then others. Good catch.

I haven't looked at my notes for yeast in a while. I was off on the % of alcohol wine yeast can tolerate as well, as Burr740 points out. But wine yeast, particularly champagne yeast are often better suited for what we do - sometimes there not. There is a lot of information on the internet. Good information can be found under wine and beer making but it's important to remember, they are interested in a final product, we are more interested in the CO2 the yeast produce, when they produce the amounts we want and at the most stable rate. If we keep notes, then we can help someone when the chance comes along. We are all human and can often come to the wrong conclusions. We learn from our failures, sometimes more then we learn from our successes.

Fourmost Bulkhead Fitting-Large
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXG851&P=ML


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

Well i changes my mix today. The old mix lasted about 5 days before slowing. I did 2 cups sugr and 1/2 tsp yeast. My ph has gone up to 7.0-7.2 im getting 1 bubble every 2 to 3 sec. Lol idk what im doing anymore


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

Yeast can do that. Drinking their waste can too. Yeast have a lag faze that can often last a day or two as they adjust to the anaerobic conditions. If it continues to stay stuck lookup information on stuck fermentation. I often found that removing the cap for a few hours to allow in a little oxygen would sometimes get it up to speed by the next day. You wouldn't want to do this too often but when the fermentation is stuck, I found it to help. I have time I will look for some additional information that helped me. Give the yeast time to see if it picks up. FWIW, this is why having two yeast generators is often recommended. Try a water change tomorrow if it's still slow. I still think your tap will bring your tank water back to 15ppm CO2.

Did you try using tank water?
Did you reuse any flocculent from the previous fermentation?
Both provide additional nutrients for yeast but that has more to do with longevity, IME.

I often refer to John LeVasseur article, DIY CO2 Systems for Freshwater-Planted Aquaria, http://www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html
Just remember, he is human too.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> Yeast can do that. Drinking their waste can too. Yeast have a lag faze that can often last a day or two as they adjust to the anaerobic conditions. If it continues to stay stuck lookup information on stuck fermentation. I often found that removing the cap for a few hours to allow in a little oxygen would sometimes get it up to speed by the next day. You wouldn't want to do this too often but when the fermentation is stuck, I found it to help. I have time I will look for some additional information that helped me. Give the yeast time to see if it picks up. FWIW, this is why having two yeast generators is often recommended. Try a water change tomorrow if it's still slow. I still think your tap will bring your tank water back to 15ppm CO2.
> 
> Did you try using tank water?
> Did you reuse any flocculent from the previous fermentation?
> ...



That was a very interesting article i just read the whole thing lol i want to make one of those powerhead diffusers. what size powerhead should i use for my 20gallon im trying to keep costs low since the whole point of diy is to save money. Also yea im getting 1 bubble every 3sec for now and i left some of the gunk from the old mix in along with adding some of my aquarium water. Also my gf threw out my bakingsoda idk why! So i had to skip the baking soda next mix will have it hoping that doesnt ruin my mix.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

If you look at the graph, there is a short lag phase followed by a growth phase and a stationary phase where things level out.
This often only takes a few weeks or less to play out and then it's time to change the mix.









Generally the powerhead you use should be low flow, no more then 80 gph. They are inexpensive. The whole thing might not run more the $20. I found this link to a thread on an Internal Venturi CO2 Reactor that is extremely efficient. I would recommend you try it. Unitll then any low flow powerhead can be setup like the one on burr740's thread. This is what Hoppy made, http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=35198&highlight=hoppy+diy+internal+reactor


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> If you look at the graph, there is a short lag phase followed by a growth phase and a stationary phase where things level out.
> This often only takes a few weeks or less to play out and then it's time to change the mix.
> 
> 
> ...



I love this im definately buying a powerhead this weekend to make the reactor. So im just assuming if i get close to 100% diffusion my current bubble rate can potentially provide a good amount of c02 levels possibly 15ppm and up?


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

I guess we're going to find out. You know what they say to those who assume too much. Anyway, good for you on going ahead with the DIY.

Keep us up to date and if you have any questions concerning the DIY, Hoppy can help answer them on the other thread.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> I guess we're going to find out. You know what they say to those who assume too much. Anyway, good for you on going ahead with the DIY.
> 
> Keep us up to date and if you have any questions concerning the DIY, Hoppy can help answer them on the other thread.






Will do thanks for your help. btw you were right my bps got a bit faster almost at 1bps


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Some really great info, Tug. Thanks for sharing all that.

I made one of those p head reactors when I was first starting out the 75, used a gravel vac tube for the chamber. It worked pretty good, but it was quite bulky inside the tank. I didnt like that.

I just cant recommend AQ filters enough. They work so well, no extra gear in the tank, no sprite water, 100% dissolution, and all you need is a cotton ball for the co2 line, and a drill bit. 



delgado4604 said:


> Well i changes my mix today. The old mix lasted about 5 days before slowing. I did 2 cups sugr and 1/2 tsp yeast. My ph has gone up to 7.0-7.2 im getting 1 bubble every 2 to 3 sec. Lol idk what im doing anymore


How long has it been? Sometimes mine take up to 18-24 hours to actually run the max. (another benefit of using two bottles) 

*Edit: I see that's^ already been covered while I was typing^*

Your results may not be exactly the same as mine, different tap water, ph, etc. Using that recipe I get a solid 1 bps out of a 2 liter bottle, for about two weeks. I ran one bottle on the 20 for a couple months. The results were noticeable, but nothing spectacular. Doubt I ever saw 15 ppm. Things got a whole lot better when I added a second bottle. Double the CO2 and a more stable output over the long term. 

If space is a concern, those 1.89 liter Juicy Juice bottles are a bit more compact. That's what I use now. Same recipe. It stays between 19 and 22 bubbles every 10 seconds, or right around 2bps. I change out one bottle per week.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> Some really great info, Tug. Thanks for sharing all that.
> 
> I made one of those p head reactors when I was first starting out the 75, used a gravel vac tube for the chamber. It worked pretty good, but it was quite bulky inside the tank. I didnt like that.
> 
> ...





Yea its like i said earlier i might end up adding the second bottle i can fit a second 2 litre just fine on my shelf. But now im just debating my diffusion. I want to get the powerhead but i agree with you i really dont like the bulk It adds so i thought maybe ill just plug my line right into the powerhead propeller. Thats option 1. The other option is to just buy the aq filter since my current filters biowheel stopped spinning and is not moving my water enough anymore. I tried cleaning the impeller and the filter pads and its still extremely weak... prob since ive had it running for years. Anyways option 1 is a powerhead option 2 is the filter. Im leaning toelwards the filter can you find those locally at a store?

Bump:


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

I'm subscribing to this thread. This may sound dumb but can I use an empty gallon water jug for my container? I'm going to run it thru my Aquaclear 70.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

schnebbles said:


> I'm subscribing to this thread. This may sound dumb but can I use an empty gallon water jug for my container? I'm going to run it thru my Aquaclear 70.


I wouldn't trust the threads or plastic thickness on a water jug. I'm assuming you mean the milk jug type?


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

delgado4604 said:


> Yea its like i said earlier i might end up adding the second bottle i can fit a second 2 litre just fine on my shelf. But now im just debating my diffusion. I want to get the powerhead but i agree with you i really dont like the bulk It adds so i thought maybe ill just plug my line right into the powerhead propeller. Thats option 1. The other option is to just buy the aq filter since my current filters biowheel stopped spinning and is not moving my water enough anymore. I tried cleaning the impeller and the filter pads and its still extremely weak... prob since ive had it running for years. Anyways option 1 is a powerhead option 2 is the filter. Im leaning toelwards the filter can you find those locally at a store?


The power head works well ime, especially if you pre-diffuse it with a chopstick or cotton ball, but it's not 100% so you'll still have some sprite water. 

Most chain stores like PetCo, Pet Smart, etc, should stock those Aquaclears, as should any local independents. From what Ive seen they're usually $10-15 higher than from Amazon though.

I have the AQ 20 on mine. It's more than capable of diffusing 2-3 bps of co2, but it's a bit undersized for the tank itself. If I had it to do over again I would go with the next size up. Esp in your case with a longer tank and it mounted on the end. The 40 or whatever it is should be perfect. Trust me when I tell you it will be a worthy investment. Both as a CO2 diffuser and filtration in general.



Dead2fall said:


> I wouldn't trust the threads or plastic thickness on a water jug. I'm assuming you mean the milk jug type?


Agree!


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

schnebbles said:


> I'm subscribing to this thread. This may sound dumb but can I use an empty gallon water jug for my container? I'm going to run it thru my Aquaclear 70.




Hello! Apparently tug and burr are the profesionals on c02 lol so im sure theyll chime in on this. If its the water gallon with a cap that twists like a gallon of milk id assume it would be just like the water bottle i use just bigger scale... now ive seen water gallons that the cap is one of those pop on ones i dont think youd be able to use those due to the pressure build up it would probobly shoot the cap off. Ive seen people use sealing tape on the ridges where the cap tightens on to prevent leaking. I used silicone to seal the caps where the tubing goes in and i have no leaks. also i think tug or burr mentioned something about them using a 1 gallon jug for one of their tanks.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

I'll go ahead and tell you now if you are using any kind of adhesive to seal your connections, you're asking for trouble. I speak from experience. Adhesives arent worth a crap. Ive tried everything from super glue, silicone, hot glue, various epoxies, JB water weld, even bubble gum. You name it, Ive tried it. Even if you get one to seal off initially, once you remove the cap a time or two it's going to break loose, guaranteed. If your system has a leak, you can throw everything previously discussed itt out the window.

Do yourself a favor and either use plastic bulkhead fittings like Tug, or airline connectors/check valves like in my DIY thread. 

No worries, you can thank me later.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> I'll go ahead and tell you now if you are using any kind of adhesive to seal your connections, you're asking for trouble. I speak from experience. Adhesives arent worth a crap. Ive tried everything from super glue, silicone, hot glue, various epoxies, JB water weld, you name it. Even if you get one to seal off initially, once you remove the cap a time or two it's going to break loose, guaranteed. If your system has a leak, you can throw everything previously discussed itt out the window.
> 
> Do yourself a favor and either use plastic bulkhead fittings like Tug, or airline connectors/check valves like in my DIY thread. You can thank me later.




Thats interesting so my adhesive will come apart eventually? I guess ill make a cleaner system sometime soon. Btw about my powerhead vs filter idea what do you think? and do they sell it at your local petsmart or anything like that i only remember seeing aqueon and marineland


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

The problem with adhesives like silicone, is the flexing motion from screwing/unscrewing the cap tends to break them loose. As long as you're relying on that type of seal, be very gentle screwing the cap on and off. And probably be a good idea to do a leak check with soapy water every so often.

As for who stocks AQs, that's most likely a regional thing, but Im sure anywhere could order you one. But like I said they're much cheaper from Amazon, if that is an option for you.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> The problem with adhesives like silicone, is the flexing motion from screwing/unscrewing the cap tends to break them loose. As long as you're relying on that type of seal, be very gentle screwing the cap on and off. And probably be a good idea to do a leak check with soapy water every so often.
> 
> As for who stocks AQs, that's most likely a regional thing, but Im sure anywhere could order you one. But like I said they're much cheaper from Amazon, if that is an option for you.




Its an option i just hate ordering things online since im so impatient lol i like to browse a store and select something i can take home with me to setup its exciting without the anxiety you know?  btw idk why im looking at your diy thread now and i appologize but wow its awesome. I want to use the same thing with 2 bottles running and the check valve idea is genious lol. You go through a lot of sugar haha. im going to look around for that aq filter this weekend. You think the 200gph is good enough to move all my water or should i get a powerhead anyways. Right now my current it so soft it stops halfway down my tank and the other half of the water is still which i hear is bad its like a deadspot no circulation. I like to fill my water line over the output of the hob filters so they create a current rather then fall into the water and just make bubbles


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

Yeah I was buying sugar 20lbs at a time for that 75 gal :hihi: Ive since went to pressurized for that one, so it's not so bad now. Two cups a week, I can live w/that.

With an AQ50 (I think that's the next size up from the 20) I dont think you'd need anything else as far as circulation goes. That should be plenty for a 20L and perfect mounted on the end like that. Obviously you'll just have to try it and see, Ive never done that exact set-up.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> Yeah I was buying sugar 20lbs at a time for that 75 gal :hihi: Ive since went to pressurized for that one, so it's not so bad now. Two cups a week, I can live w/that.
> 
> With an AQ50 (I think that's the next size up from the 20) I dont think you'd need anything else as far as circulation goes. That should be plenty for a 20L and perfect mounted on the end like that. Obviously you'll just have to try it and see, Ive never done that exact set-up.




Jeez 20ibs... lol the lady at the register probobly thought you were an avid baker

The aq comes with a carbon pouch. i plan on using it the way it comes but after about a month when the carvon pouch doesnt really do anything i want to change it out for something maybe another sponge? Or another bio bag? or should i just leave it as is hmm oh the options


off topic but i envy the java fern in your 75. Java fern is my favorite aquatic plant even though ive never had any i plan on doing a taller cliff looking tank full of the stuff one day


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

This wont be a popular opinion around here, but Im a big fan of charcoal. Chalk it up to to 20+ years of doing cichlid tanks. I dont sweat trying to change it out every 2-3 weeks, I just leave it in there to become bio-media. I buy charcoal in bulk. For the AQ I make a new little bag about once a month using panty hose. I even use it in my canister filter. Those get re-newed about every three months and I dont worry about it. Amano starts all his tanks out with carbon and just leaves it in there. He seems to do alright 

But to answer your question, Seachem Purigen is a popular choice for planted tank enthusiasts. Or you cant go wrong with just a second sponge.


The story behind my java fern is crazy. This lady had brought it into my LFS along with a couple hundred guppies. She was breaking down her tank. About a dozen 4" long plants that were covered in the god-awfulest black slimy bba Ive ever seen. The store was going to just throw them away, so I took them. needless to say I wasnt about to put that in any of my tanks, so I soaked it overnight in a 5 gallon bucket of 50% peroxide and water.

Next day I rinsed it off well and threw it in a little low light holding tank. Couple months pass. Most of it died but a few small plantlets began to emerge. I started with 4 on the driftwood and it turned into what it is today.

Here they are when first stuck to the driftwood. Look close because you can barely see them..


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

You won't get any argument from me. AC in a filter only binds molecules that have a carbon atom attached so stuff like urea but not the salts we add. It's when people rely on fish waste to feed their plants and don't dose KNO3, etc., that can be a problem for plants.


burr740 said:


> Some really great info, Tug. Thanks for sharing all that.
> 
> I made one of those p head reactors when I was first starting out the 75, used a gravel vac tube for the chamber. It worked pretty good, but it was quite bulky inside the tank. I didnt like that.
> 
> I just cant recommend AQ filters enough. They work so well, no extra gear in the tank, no sprite water, 100% dissolution, and all you need is a cotton ball for the co2 line, and a drill bit...


Well most of the great information is explained in John LeVasseur's article and a great deal could come from discussing the information he provides. There is a lot learned from the experience from using yeast. Yeast generated CO2, unlike pressurized systems, offer little in the way of adjustments (no valve to increase the CO2). The yeast we use (I find Champaign yeast provides more CO2 that is stable over a longer period of time), the light over the tank and the method we use to dissolve the CO2 into our tank water are about it.

I am a little disappointed delgado isn't going to make the Internal Venturi CO2 Reactor. If a 4 or even 6" long viewtainer is attached to the powerhead, as in the way Hoppy made his, it would take up less space then a gravel vac tube for the chamber. Once the plants grow in it is hardly noticeable but it does require more effort. In most cases that keeps us from trying anything new that might improve CO2. the actual DIY is really quite small and from what I've seen it is very effective and quite inconspicuous. This is what Hoppy made, http://www.aquaticquotient.com/forum/showthread.php/13643-Tom-Barr-s-DIY-Internal-Reactor-w-venturi

It's our nature to want people to try and recreate our own experience using the DIY project we come up with. If they still made the Duetto multi filter, I would want you to try modifying one as I did but I'm convinced at the AQ filter works. The results would seem to attest to that. Without trying them all I wouldn't be able to say if one works better then the other. What is it about the AQ filter that makes it better then any other HOB filter?



schnebbles said:


> I'm subscribing to this thread. This may sound dumb but can I use an empty gallon water jug for my container? I'm going to run it thru my Aquaclear 70.


These are the 1 gallon containers I got from a brewing supply store, http://www.thegrape.net/browse.cfm/cubitainer-one-gallon/4,9379.html They are made from a pliable material. When the fermentation is active, checking the bottles pliability lets me know when it was not. When the fermentation is active the bottle is less yielding due to the pressure then when it is not. I also found that 4 liters of ferment can provide a 20 gallon tank with sufficient CO2. It's two, 2 liter bottles in one. :hihi: If I swapped it out at days end and preformed a water change the next day my generator was fully charged and stable in that time. Tap water provided most of the CO2 the first day after the swap. I am not sure it is that different then when two bottles are used. Since I no longer use yeast for CO2 I can not check my logic but eliminating anything that causes back pressure will improve the overall bubble rate. I never used the gas separator and used only one 4 litter container. I have some pictures of that tank in my profile but I've been thinking of starting another yeast generator. Maybe I'll start by building the Internal Venturi CO2 Reactor first. :wink:


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

tug said:


> What is it about the AQ filter that makes it better then any other HOB filter?


It's the way they are designed, specifically how the water is forced through the media, from bottom to top.










CO2 hits the prop and gets chopped up, then gets blasted into the lower sponge filter, where it becomes trapped, both there and across the various other media, allowing it to fully dissolve before entering the water column. In a way, it is similar to what the sponge does in one of those power head reactors.

Other cartridge type HOBs dont work because after the prop, everything goes to an open compartment of water in the rear, before being pulled through the media cartridge. Any bubbles will rise to the surface and off-gas right there before having a chance to pass through the media and dissolve. It's probably not accurate to frankly say they dont work. Im sure they would still work to a certain degree, but you'd lose a lot of CO2 in the process.


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

I have to say I like that. Good to know. TY

Sent from my XT1028


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

well at least I picked the right HOB filter, lol! My husband keeps telling me the 70 is way too much on my 40 tank but he doesn't know. he thinks the fish don't like it but they are fine.

Oh my gosh this plant stuff is so confusing to me. My brain doesn't like to think that much anymore. 

I do think I need the co2, right now I'm using excel and starting to dose 2x a day.

I got some plants from a member and it could be that his plants were doing so well in his setup, whereas all of my plants are new, but his were such a beautiful green! Bright and so healthy. 

My dwarf sag that I got (a bunch) was nice but it is not so pretty, I even trimmed it last week. It kind of yellows/browns. It's ugly. I might replace with water sprite when mine grows more if the sag doesn't do better. I think it's doing better in my small 5gl betta tank with low light.

off to read more on c02...

I did move my small pleco into this tank from the betta and he's a happy camper!! I never saw him in the betta tank and he's all over the place in the big tank. I brought home some algae on some plant and he's cleaning them up nicely.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> This wont be a popular opinion around here, but Im a big fan of charcoal. Chalk it up to to 20+ years of doing cichlid tanks. I dont sweat trying to change it out every 2-3 weeks, I just leave it in there to become bio-media. I buy charcoal in bulk. For the AQ I make a new little bag about once a month using panty hose. I even use it in my canister filter. Those get re-newed about every three months and I dont worry about it. Amano starts all his tanks out with carbon and just leaves it in there. He seems to do alright
> 
> But to answer your question, Seachem Purigen is a popular choice for planted tank enthusiasts. Or you cant go wrong with just a second sponge.
> 
> ...





Well the charcoal thing is definately some food for thought


Thats impressive. Oh man that makes me wanna go get a new tank and some java fern lol my gf would kill me haha im always planning something new for an aquarium


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

tug said:


> I have to say I like that. Good to know. TY
> 
> Sent from my XT1028





tug im choosing the aq filter for the reason of not adding anything else into my tank. Its only 12 inches high and the way i scaped it i couldnt imagine it in there also anything added to this tank sticks out like a sore thumb. but believe me when i say i want to try it and i probobly will on my next tank because i know in this hobby its all trial and error and i like trying everything to see what works best for me. The aq filter idea sounds simple and itll be the only thing in my water aside from my heater. Id prob do the reactor in a more jungle looking tank. Im hoping the aq filter works for me though you cant argue with the results from burrs pictures. I am wondering though... ok so the bubbles get broken down 100% before coming back out in the water column i get that part. But lets say the waterfall where the water goes back into the tank is falling into the aquarium Or just agitating the surface... am i losing some c02 from that transaction going on or no because its just c02 enriched water being poured in?


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

. :d


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

ph test of my tap water and a ph test of what the c02 did. Tap water is around 7.8 i did a more specific ph test on it. The green after c02 duffusion is a contant 6.6 or 6.8 im a little colorblind and cant tell people ive asked say 6.6


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

That's more like it. ^



delgado4604 said:


> .. am i losing some c02 from that transaction going on or no because its just c02 enriched water being poured in?


If there is a splash, then yes you will lose...some. It's good to keep the water level high enough so the output doesnt make a big splash. 

In general, you want the surface moving, even rolling a little bit, but not actually broken.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> That's more like it. ^
> 
> 
> 
> ...



im in love with this filter it was definately a great suggestion and investment from now on these are the filters ill be using for my smaller aquariums. I got it at a local store for 39.99. Even though the water breaks the surface it flows in so smooth theres no bubbles just current kind of like a powerhead. I also noticed from one day to the next my background plants shot up over the surface... lol my HC is nice and green but not spreading yet. Btw i see you have red ludwigia. Mine have been losing a lot of leaves They just turn dark and float all over my aquarium but the plants are still shooting up. i noticed a ton of roots growing mid stem on all stems which i plan on cutting soon to plant more densly. Will they be ok with the leaf loss has this happened to you. Also mine barely have red...


On a side note i hear c02 ruins the rubber around the propellers in powerheads will it eat away at my filters how long have you been running yours without this problem


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

My lud. drops a few leaves occasionally. It'll drop a lot if it's not happy. Yours could be simply adapting to the higher co2 levels. Most plants Ive had change dramatically with the addition of co2, size shape color, etc. As long as new growth is coming in healthy I wouldnt worry too much about it. Just be sure to provide a full range of ferts. They will use more of everything now with higher co2. Mine also usually has some side roots growing, sometimes more than others. Not sure why, normal I guess?

Im going on 9 maybe 10 months running co2 through the AQ. Havent noticed any negative effects so far. I take it apart and clean it good about once a month to remove the gunky stuff from the diy CO2.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> My lud. drops a few leaves occasionally. It'll drop a lot if it's not happy. Yours could be simply adapting to the higher co2 levels. Most plants Ive had change dramatically with the addition of co2, size shape color, etc. As long as new growth is coming in healthy I wouldnt worry too much about it. Just be sure to provide a full range of ferts. They will use more of everything now with higher co2. Mine also usually has some side roots growing, sometimes more than others. Not sure why, normal I guess?
> 
> Im going on 9 maybe 10 months running co2 through the AQ. Havent noticed any negative effects so far. I take it apart and clean it good about once a month to remove the gunky stuff from the diy CO2.




I read that it grows those roots in case it falls over or is cut somehow it that part with the roots can latch on for nutrients idk how accurate that is but the fact that it grows them like this makes them an awesome plant to propogate so i dont have to wait for roots to grow from cuttings

1year without a prob is worth the 40 bucks to me besides i checked out the manufacturer and the replacement impeller is like 10 bucks  well im happy now lol heres some future planning


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

I esp like the bottom one. But Im also a big fan of paths in the right circumstances. Never done one but always wanted to. So Id probably play around with the white sand a little more before removing it entirely. Maybe something like this,


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## tug (Mar 22, 2009)

I new using tank water instead of tap water wouldn't let me down. The nutrients from the tank water are taken in by yeast during the lag phase while they use up the remaining oxygen. Along with adding the proper amount of yeast these things should help with the longevity of the fermentation but I admit I would not of expected that drop in pH from using a HOB filter as the reactor/diffuser. That is a fantastic result. Depending on how you see the color green, it is providing over 15ppm CO2, maybe even closer to 30. Well done everyone.


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> I esp like the bottom one. But Im also a big fan of paths in the right circumstances. Never done one but always wanted to. So Id probably play around with the white sand a little more before removing it entirely. Maybe something like this,




Lol what are the plants to the right in front of the rocks theres a red one. I feel like my species list is tiny but idk what else would go in here without cluttering my scape. It would be easier as a jungle theme but im going for a more artsy and organized tank 







and yes tug it was a good call this thread got [censored][censored][censored][censored] done lol very productive if i say so


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

I was thinking something like alternanthera reineckii "mini" , just for a splash of color :red_mouth


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## delgado4604 (Dec 28, 2014)

burr740 said:


> I was thinking something like alternanthera reineckii "mini" , just for a splash of color :red_mouth


ohh yes those are niiiice wouldnt be too much red in front of luwigia? Though mine arnt red yet i hope to dose iron soon to bring it out. I know these red alternanthea would pop in the carpet


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