# Frustration setting in. Suggestions?



## sharambil (Nov 15, 2016)

When in doubt, buy a squad of amano's. 40g breeder, I would get 20 amanos and 20 otocinclus. I would also recommend a hydrogen peroxide treatment... some livebearers pick at algae too!


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## MtAnimals (May 17, 2015)

I would try a once per week 50% w/c,be sure to clean the filter each week.You might increase the siesta period from 3 to 4 hrs.Also,you might think about switching to EI method of dosing,!/3 once a week for macros,1/3 twice a week for micros.Maybe less with the Ocote+ in the substrate.

How's the plant growth?

Also,doing macro and micros on the same day will lead to much of the nutrients precipitating out,creating an imbalance.dose micros on alternating days from the macros.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Here is a shot when this first started occurring. The crypt spirals started to show algae which I attributed to the fact that if was growing so close to the light. Clearly I was wrong, as this has now taken over a majority of plants and I'm afraid it will continue if I don't get help. My troubleshooting has proved ineffective but I was able to save the plant by cleaning it and place it in another tank and it had been fine ever since.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

sharambil said:


> When in doubt, buy a squad of amano's. 40g breeder, I would get 20 amanos and 20 otocinclus. I would also recommend a hydrogen peroxide treatment... some livebearers pick at algae too!


My amanos haven't touched the algae. I dropped around 12 in there and they all hang out on the sponge filter.:frown2: 



MtAnimals said:


> I would try a once per week 50% w/c,be sure to clean the filter each week.You might increase the siesta period from 3 to 4 hrs.Also,you might think about switching to EI method of dosing,!/3 once a week for macros,1/3 twice a week for micros.Maybe less with the Ocote+ in the substrate.
> 
> How's the plant growth?
> 
> Also,doing macro and micros on the same day will lead to much of the nutrients precipitating out,creating an imbalance.dose micros on alternating days from the macros.


I have a pre-filter attached that I clean every wc, the filter is inspected every two weeks but I usually don't have to touch it till 3-4 weeks.

I will have to research the EI and its dosing guidelines. I imagine I have to dose more at once then the little I dose daily. 

Plants overall show new growth and do well enough to survive, but at a much slower rate than previously. By the time each leaf reaches its potential size it is ready to be clipped due to the algae coverage. The wisteria always needed to be trimmed once a week, but now it barely gets out of hand.


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## sharambil (Nov 15, 2016)

I found that the hydrogen peroxide was the most effective, spot treatment especially. I had an algae problem once, and I fixed it by rescaping completely while using established substrate. I would do a 3 day blackout. Should be effective enough, then smack the algae with hydrogen peroxide.

Bump: Try increasing height of light, should decrease intensity.


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## SubstrateSource (Apr 20, 2011)

I'd decrease the feeding amount and frequency. Try not to let the Amanos get any of the prepared food if possible. Is this a Non-CO2 system?


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Am curious what type of media other than Purigen exist's in the filter(s) and how often the filter(s) is/are serviced.
Some believe Bio-media compete's directly with plant's for same food's and with this in mind,bio-media in well planted tanks is often swapped out for mechanical media such as foam pad's,floss,etc.(all becomes bio media eventually)
Goes without saying that anything in the way of nitrate /phosphate remover's used in planted tank effectively takes food away from plant's.
40 gal breeder is fairly shallow tank and the 24/7 may need to be dimmed if able to or place glass top over the tank and set the light on the glass to help dim the light if dimming feature is not available on the Finnex 24/7.
Hard for many to keep light's dimmed once they see what 100% of light's capability look's like.
Would take slower growth and less algae that dimmer light can often provide over brightest setting and algae woes.(just sayin)
I too use metricide daily Without fail and would continue this.
I have been guilty in the past of loading the substrate with product osmocote which will release ammonia for week's.
Light in excess and ammonia is quickest way I know to induce all manner of algae and over doin it with Osmocote could have been trigger?
Add to this,, uprooting plant's recently, allowing more ammonia to escape from the substrate in the form of dissolved organic matter, and or the osmocote prill's (seen in photo's),and I could see ongoing issues.
As example,I use about half a measured cup of osmocote as sprinkling on bottom layer of soil in four foot long 75 to 80 gal tanks.
I have way over did it loading substrates, and often resulted in slowly burning root's and plant's beginning to suffer which in turn triggered prime condition's for all manner of algae.
Not sayin you over did it with substrate loading with osmocote, but rather relaying my own purely unscientific observation's.
No way to fix over done substrate short of tear down and using less product next time.
Could be fighting no win battle for week's month's with slow release of too much.
Hope thing's turn around soon.


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## Redneck tenner (Aug 21, 2016)

Roadmaster the winner. I see stag and bba(maybe). Looking at spec I see no mention of co2. Ammonia and co2 is where id focus my attention. 

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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

I think the metricide the OP is using can provide source of liquid carbon that all plant's need but,,maybe not enough to allow full light intensisty from the Finnex 24/7.
The liquid carbon supplement's aren't as effective as proper gas injection, but do help plant's in low tech ,lower light energy tank's.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

My algae problem was helped considerably by raising my light higher above the tank.


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## Redneck tenner (Aug 21, 2016)

Stated plants growing well. Which look like it. Depending on intenisty op has I would think at 40b depth with pps youd need more than carbon. 
Ammonia plus low co2 typically equals stag 

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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

@sharambil During remodel I did everything shy of spraying the tank with H2o2, I will try that

@SubstrateSource My fish are far too hungry to let the amanos get a piece of food. No Co2

@roadmaster
Filter
Bottom tray - coarse
2nd tray - fine
3rd tray - matrix media
4th tray - poly fill topped with purigen

Maintenance schedule
prefilter rinsed every wc
visually inspect trays every two weeks. rinse every 3-4 weeks. Change every 6-8 weeks or when degraded

Glass lid equipped. The tank shown at initial outbreak had little floating plants as my fish would eat them before they could reproduce. Since then I grew the floaters in another tank and was transferred enough so they can keep up with the fish appetites . I would say there is aprox 65% coverage of floating plants now

The osmocote has been in there 4ish months and i wouldn't think it would still leach ammonia, could be wrong though. The uprooted dwarf sag and osmo balls are from my last wc on Friday. I was so frustrated from the algae that I was going to pull them and stopped myself halfway. I gravel vac every friday so Im not sure where the extra ammonia is coming from and I wouuld think it would show in at least one of the multiple test that I have run over the weeks. Could be completely wrong on that one too though. I'll gravel vac most of it up next friday and pull it out with tweezers.

The consensus seems that ammonia and co2 seem to be my issue. Was looking at a co2 setup not too long ago but got sidetracked with life. 
How does this plan sound? 
Gravel vac most osmocote.
H2o2 the affected plants.
Should I dose prime lightly to bind any excess ammonia for say a week?
Drop feedings to once daily or twice every other day.
See where I am at in two weeks and then re-evaluate based on results.

Thank you for your quick responses, I greatly appreciate your help.


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## sharambil (Nov 15, 2016)

no problem, I think that investing in CO2 is great and pays for itself over and over thru the life of the regulator and system. It is not needed right away though. First figure out the issue. I would do heavy gravel vac-ing as well as lots of manual removal/h202 treatment.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

With the dwarf sag being so low i'm assuming I'll have to pull that and re-plant, correct? I have worked out a deal to swap a huge acetylene tank for a co2 canister with my local supplier, I now have to decide what reg and other parts i want to buy. I would like to build myself as I love diy and saving $$, it just got a bit overwhelming. I will have to go back and read the threads I have bookmarked.


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## frenziedpace (Dec 17, 2016)

Are you running the light at max?


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

When you say:



Carpathian said:


> Change every 6-8 weeks or when degraded


What are you changing?


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

MCFC said:


> When you say:
> 
> 
> 
> What are you changing?


When visually inspecting the canister I fill a bucket of tank water and move all trays to the bucket. I then siphon the canister to remove any debris at the bottom. I then proceed to lightly rinse the mechanical media and toss any nasty polyfill or damaged pads. I only pull 1/4 of the poly fill or change one pad at each cleaning if they need replaced. Hope that helps


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

Yes it does, thanks! I thought you meant you were tossing all of your media every 6-8 weeks


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

As for your algae problem, I think @MtAnimals has given you sound advice. EI dosing with micros and macros on alternating days and 50% weekly W/C is a good place to start. 

Your plan sounds good but I might add a 3-4 day blackout to really beat back the algae and give yourself the best possible "reset" without having to tear the whole tank down. 
-


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

I have found having a 3hrs light siesta period helps keep BBA under control. Thus my lights are on 3hrs/ off 3hrs/ off 3hrs. When I tried to do high light at noon it started blooming. Thus positive it is what is controlling BBA in my tanks. It works because it allows natural Co2 to build up. 

Another item that has helped is feeding the fish pellet and powdered foods (New Life Spectrum small fish formula and decapsulized Shrimp eggs). I probably over feed my fish.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

frenziedpace said:


> Are you running the light at max?


Yes, I should set one of the presets a little less than max and see if I can control algae without any deficiency to the plants



MCFC said:


> As for your algae problem, I think @MtAnimals has given you sound advice. EI dosing with micros and macros on alternating days and 50% weekly W/C is a good place to start.
> 
> Your plan sounds good but I might add a 3-4 day blackout to really beat back the algae and give yourself the best possible "reset" without having to tear the whole tank down.
> -


I'll try the 3 day blackout, & reduce my wc to only once per week. The ei method I am currently researching and will start tomorrow



Hilde said:


> I have found having a 3hrs light siesta period helps keep BBA under control. Thus my lights are on 3hrs/ off 3hrs/ off 3hrs. When I tried to do high light at noon it started blooming. Thus positive it is what is controlling BBA in my tanks. It works because it allows natural Co2 to build up.
> 
> Another item that has helped is feeding the fish pellet and powdered foods (New Life Spectrum small fish formula and decapsulized Shrimp eggs). I probably over feed my fish.


I feed pellet mainly and treats are served on wc days. I have 3 hours off now, I was asked to bump that to 4 hours and see if that helps too

Thank you everyone for your advice


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## kyle3 (May 26, 2005)

From years of trying to get by with organic carbon sources and yeast CO2 I can say I have been in this situation MANY times. It stopped happening after I finally got gas CO2 or in the tanks that I got really serious about restricting the plant species I was trying to grow. If you go for pressurized you will stop having to work so hard and your hair will grow back (jk: because you won't be tearing it out!)

I would also second those saying you could increase your algae eating crew, more amanos, more otos, and possibly SAE. But this won't conquer the algae on its own.

As for the fertilizer recommendations: I used EI faithfully for years and it worked but it has some flaws especially in over providing some nutrients and thereby allowing them to build up (even with sizable water changes.) If you're willing to pay close attention to those (especially KNO3) and adjust your dosing to avoid the excesses it works great. I've found PPS to be simpler because I can pre-mix large batches of fertilizer. It really is personal preference - I'm not convinced one is better than the other. All that being said -- fertalizing should come after you've mastered balancing light and CO2. (I'm a believer in a lot of what Tom Barr advocates.)

Which leads me to this statement:
"Yes, I should set one of the presets a little less than max and see if I can control algae without any deficiency to the plants"
Especially when you aren't using pressurized CO2, light is usually too high. Reduce your light until the algae starts to loose ground. I might try a 4 hour photo period for a week while increasing your organic carbon and adjust from there. Make light the limiting growth factor for a while (3-4weeks) and then slowly increase it without exceeding the amount your plants can actually use.

best of luck! We've all been there


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

kyle3 said:


> From years of trying to get by with organic carbon sources and yeast CO2 I can say I have been in this situation MANY times. It stopped happening after I finally got gas CO2 or in the tanks that I got really serious about restricting the plant species I was trying to grow. If you go for pressurized you will stop having to work so hard and your hair will grow back (jk: because you won't be tearing it out!)
> 
> I would also second those saying you could increase your algae eating crew, more amanos, more otos, and possibly SAE. But this won't conquer the algae on its own.
> 
> ...


Great, I'll knock the lights to 4-5 hours and not keep the max setting. By mid summer I'll be getting a co2 setup. Problem is i'm an addict and I will end up having 5 tanks with co2 by the end of the year.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Carpathian said:


> @*sharambil* During remodel I did everything shy of spraying the tank with H2o2, I will try that
> 
> @*SubstrateSource* My fish are far too hungry to let the amanos get a piece of food. No Co2
> 
> ...


 
Well,at four month's the osmocote will pretty much be depleted(nutrient deficiencies?), so any possible ammonia would be from fish waste /fish food's that find their way into the substrate.(especially after uprooting stem plant's)
Prill's on substrate will likely be be empty after four month's, and other than eyesore,prolly aren't gonna hurt nothing.
Would decrease light intensity (less demand for nutrient's/CO2).
Look to consistent fish feeding's, or possibly more complete fertilizing method for the weed's


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## frenziedpace (Dec 17, 2016)

Carpathian said:


> Great, I'll knock the lights to 4-5 hours and not keep the max setting. By mid summer I'll be getting a co2 setup. Problem is i'm an addict and I will end up having 5 tanks with co2 by the end of the year.


:thumbsup:
I think that will make a big difference.


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## Doc7 (Apr 7, 2011)

How high is the light above the tank? Have you blocked it any with screening? The Finnex 24/7 is high light for a 40B, too high for just Excel IMO.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Doc7 said:


> How high is the light above the tank? Have you blocked it any with screening? The Finnex 24/7 is high light for a 40B, too high for just Excel IMO.


Stock mount with just a glass lid. Nothing else except a mix of frogbit, duckweed, & Salvania. Once I get a proper co2 setup can I start to invest in high tech plants or will I need an additional light?

Update: 
Reduced light period to 5hrs(4 hr siesta)
Reduced intensity
Did a very extensive gravel vac
H2o2 treatment to all affected plants
Cleaned canister, sponge, and prefilter
Pulled excess osmocote


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## Doc7 (Apr 7, 2011)

No you do not need additional light. You need less light.

Is your photo period 5 4 5? Or 2.5 4 2.5? It is confusing the way you wrote a 5 hr period with siesta.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

2.5 - 4(off) - 2.5. currently looking at the co2 setup in the for sale section that was just listed here. Seems like a decent setup, yes???


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## kyle3 (May 26, 2005)

Looks like a well built, lightly used regulator. 

I've only ever had my GLA regulator for my aquarium and it has been good, quite a bit cheaper than this one but I bought they're most basic version. 

I've used a few different cheap regulators for beer (other hobby) but you can get away with crappier components with beer.  

ADA is obviously a very well reputed brand that makes good products -- but there is a decent sized brand mark-up. Whether that's worth it to you is totally a personal choice. For some people it is, others not so much.

Happy shopping!


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

I dropped the lights an hour and dosed the ei method. This week I have seen my stem plants take a turn for the worst. I purchased a co2 setup so I can get things back under control hopefully. Thanks again for all the advice and tips.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Carpathian said:


> This week I have seen my stem plants take a turn for the worst.


You mean the algae is taking over the plants or are they just dying?

Here is an algae treatment that I read about


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

No algae has yet to return but my stem plants are melting leaves, and one of my larger anubias has yellowed across all leaves. I am unsure if the h2o2 did that or the lack of light. I would say the former as I only cut intesity a bit maybe from 100 to 75% and also an hour was deducted from the light period


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## DennisSingh (Nov 8, 2004)

Lower light tremendously and patience, your problem is solved...don't change nothing else but lighting, your two wc 30% are better than a 1 50%. In this case spread is more important than par, and your plant selection can handle shade too....

also ditch the glut, or h2o2 or whatever i skimmed reading over...


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Carpathian said:


> my stem plants are melting leaves. I am unsure if the h2o2 did that or the lack of light.


Probably to much H2O2 for the plants that are melting. I had that happen to a delicate stem plant when I over dosed Excel for my red plants.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Now I'm even more frustrated than having a little algae. Almost all plants are dead or dying. Here are some shots as of today


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Carpathian said:


> Now I'm even more frustrated than having a little algae. Almost all plants are dead or dying. Here are some shots as of today


Your demise reminds of what I went through when I started my tank. Is this your 1st planted tank? What ferts are you dosing? I have found that the stem plants have a deep need for potassium. Also I see your nitrates are on the low side. When my nitrates are low I get the BBA. I am wondering if KNO3 (potassium nitrate) would help the plants come back. You know the crypts can melt to nothing but the root and come back.


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## awesometim1 (Oct 31, 2013)

I used to have the same problem on my 29 Gallon way back. 
It had high lighting, only some ferts(iron, liquid co2, etc) and diy co2. 
I think the problem is either deficient nutrients or not enough plants to take in the nutrients. The nitrate level being 5ppm leads me to believe that it's a nutrient deficiency. 


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Here is what it looked like when I was using ppi method dosing macros/micros daily and using metricide to excel concentration daily. This is when I first noticed the algae issue and reduced my light period by an hour and pulled all affected leaves/ 2 weeks later the algae returned and I started this thread.


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## DennisSingh (Nov 8, 2004)

Lighting will not do that, looks like chem burns.








see this pic, i don't know how long ago it was, but bottom leaves showing bleached white, thats from the matricide/excel. That isn't from the h2o2
melting toasting in other pics seem to be from the h2o2

I got questions for you
sorry if i missed
*what light
how long photoperiod
ever thought in doing diy co2? would help tremendously*
I see there is a ton of aeration in your tank, not enough stock for them to provide the co2 needed for this low tech, invest in more fish/bio control algae eaters...Funny thing with the algae eaters, if co2 is too high, they won't eat, co2 helps to keep algae at bay, so give or take on that one, either have the fish control the algae or the co2....trade...


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

StrungOut said:


> I got questions for you
> sorry if i missed
> *what light
> how long photoperiod
> ever thought in doing diy co2? would help tremendously*


Previous settings before thread

finnex 24/7 max setting
3 hrs on - 3 hours off - 3 hours on

Current settings recommended by members

lowered intensity to roughly 75%
cut light period to 2.5 hrs on - 4 hours off - 2.5 hours on

Just bought a co2 setup which will arrive tomorrow.

At this point I am curious to know root cause so if algae occurs again I can spot deficiency or better evaluate my tanks needs.

Also the pic is before h2o2 treatment, right before I started this thread. I was using longer light and daily dosing. So metricide is my issue there but it clearly didn't help with the algae, just burned my plants.
You also state the I have lots of aeration. The one sponge filter is causing too much aeration? The outflow is pointed straight forward and isn't even rippling the surface.


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## DennisSingh (Nov 8, 2004)

Ok...ok..
this is all lighting issues
2.5hrs on? Not long enough for photosynthesis process
You could do a 5-8 hr straight period
Lower your intensity to 40-50%

what is with the double photoperiod and why are they so short
I highly doubt someone suggested that....


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

infact it was recommended in this very thread that I increase my siesta and lower the length

Bump:


Hilde said:


> I have found having a 3hrs light siesta period helps keep BBA under control. Thus my lights are on 3hrs/ off 3hrs/ off 3hrs. When I tried to do high light at noon it started blooming. Thus positive it is what is controlling BBA in my tanks. It works because it allows natural Co2 to build up.





kyle3 said:


> "Yes, I should set one of the presets a little less than max and see if I can control algae without any deficiency to the plants"
> Especially when you aren't using pressurized CO2, light is usually too high. Reduce your light until the algae starts to loose ground. I might try a 4 hour photo period for a week while increasing your organic carbon and adjust from there. Make light the limiting growth factor for a while (3-4weeks) and then slowly increase it without exceeding the amount your plants can actually use.
> 
> best of luck! We've all been there


Originally Posted by Carpathian 
Great, I'll knock the lights to 4-5 hours and not keep the max setting. By mid summer I'll be getting a co2 setup. Problem is i'm an addict and I will end up having 5 tanks with co2 by the end of the year.



frenziedpace said:


> :thumbsup:
> I think that will make a big difference.


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## DennisSingh (Nov 8, 2004)

5 hrs minimum.
Why the siesta? for viewing?
I can make your system work without the siesta
I've never done siesta period myself so it would throw me off

Bump: slowly, not going to happen overnight, slowly patience
when y ou get impatient, you start rapidly changing things which is not good put the system in shock


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

I was running 3on-3off-3on and having decent plant growth along with the algae issues. I was suggested using and increasing siesta to allow natural co2 to build in tank since plants would not be using it for the light break. I only decreased lighting slightly from my previous period which I was seeing growth. I don't feel that was too rapid of a change but then again that may be the reason why I come here for advice. Don't feel like i've made these changes too quickly this has been going on for at least a month. Clearly just making the wrong changes.


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## frenziedpace (Dec 17, 2016)

Carpathian said:


> Great, I'll knock the lights to 4-5 hours and not keep the max setting. By mid summer I'll be getting a co2 setup. Problem is i'm an addict and I will end up having 5 tanks with co2 by the end of the year.





frenziedpace said:


> :thumbsup:
> I think that will make a big difference.


That's the post I was referring. Lower intensity and a shorter photoperiod. I thought the 4-5 was the photoperiod not the siesta.
Your siestas are confusing. 
My thought was your light was just too intense at full strength at that height with no CO2. I have the same light on a 20 long. I'm sure I would've been in trouble running it at max. I would've tried 50% strength for 6 hrs then adjusted if needed. That's 6 on 18 off.



StrungOut said:


> Ok...ok..
> this is all lighting issues
> 2.5hrs on? Not long enough for photosynthesis process
> You could do a 5-8 hr straight period
> ...


Seems like StrungOut is on to the problem so hopefully he can get you sorted. Sorry if my advice confused you I just didn't understand the details of your lighting change.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Hilde said:


> I have found having a 3hrs light siesta period helps keep BBA under control. Thus my lights are on 3hrs/ off 3hrs/ off 3hrs. When I tried to do high light at noon it started blooming. Thus positive it is what is controlling BBA in my tanks. It works because it allows natural Co2 to build up.
> 
> Another item that has helped is feeding the fish pellet and powdered foods (New Life Spectrum small fish formula and decapsulized Shrimp eggs). I probably over feed my fish.





kyle3 said:


> From years of trying to get by with organic carbon sources and yeast CO2 I can say I have been in this situation MANY times. It stopped happening after I finally got gas CO2 or in the tanks that I got really serious about restricting the plant species I was trying to grow. If you go for pressurized you will stop having to work so hard and your hair will grow back (jk: because you won't be tearing it out!)
> 
> I would also second those saying you could increase your algae eating crew, more amanos, more otos, and possibly SAE. But this won't conquer the algae on its own.
> 
> ...





frenziedpace said:


> :thumbsup:
> I think that will make a big difference.





frenziedpace said:


> That's the post I was referring. Lower intensity and a shorter photoperiod. I thought the 4-5 was the photoperiod not the siesta.
> Your siestas are confusing.
> My thought was your light was just too intense at full strength at that height with no CO2. I have the same light on a 20 long. I'm sure I would've been in trouble running it at max. I would've tried 50% strength for 6 hrs then adjusted if needed. That's 6 on 18 off.
> 
> ...


Well if too much light with no co2 is the issue then it has been resolved. Should have pressurized co2 by monday. The academy near me couldn't fill tank so I have to go to commercial gas place on monday.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

So what is your light period now? How many T5 bulbs?


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Right now running 6 hrs straight. No bulbs. Finnex 24/7


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## Jeffypoop (Apr 21, 2017)

Honestly, I believe co2 is more important than light. You can grow hc in low light and co2. It will just grow slower. But it is a lot harder to grow hc with high light and no co2 without running into problems. If you can grow a carpet of hc with no algae problems you can pretty much grow everything else without algae.

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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Carpathian said:


> Right now running 6 hrs straight. No bulbs. Finnex 24/7


Having a siesta period is the key for me to keep BBA under control. Thus my lights are on 3hrs/ off 3hrs/ on 3hrs. A siesta period helps natural Co2 to build up.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Hilde said:


> Having a siesta period is the key for me to keep BBA under control. Thus my lights are on 3hrs/ off 3hrs/ on 3hrs. A siesta period helps natural Co2 to build up.


I was running a siesta. I'm getting so many different suggestions its hard to keep up. I was on the same light period and I was seeing algae creep in. Someone suggested i lower light period & intensity whioile increasing siesta. Others are saying I need a longer photoperiod for photosynthesis.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Carpathian said:


> I was running a siesta. I'm getting so many different suggestions its hard to keep up. I was on the same light period and I was seeing algae creep in. Someone suggested i lower light period & intensity whioile increasing siesta. Others are saying I need a longer photoperiod for photosynthesis.


Well when dealing with nature nothing is written in stone. There are many ways to fight algae. We know though that you have imbalance of light Co2, since you have a high light and are not injecting Co2.


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

Hilde said:


> Well when dealing with nature nothing is written in stone. There are many ways to fight algae. We know though that you have imbalance of light Co2, since you have a high light and are not injecting Co2.


This is true. I was running a few months battling algae with light cleaning of plants during wcs. This only held up for so long before the algae took over. The setup is less than a year and I've been waiting for this to happen. Still learning more and more every day. Currently working on building a reactor for pressurized co2. A few things I took away from this thread is that the light i run is considered high light for this tank and I need more than excel to keep the algae back. Oddly enough I thought my 75 which gets direct sunlight was going to explode with algae before the 40b did. Same light just run the 75 on 24/7 mode and its a beaut. Co2 will be running as early as Monday. As many mixed results I got, I do greatly appreciate everyone'e suggestion, tip, and possible causes to my issue. Thanks again - Carpathian


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## frenziedpace (Dec 17, 2016)

So how is the tank doing now?


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## Carpathian (Dec 23, 2016)

frenziedpace said:


> So how is the tank doing now?


I will get pics up later, but just as I said before, I have become addicted to co2. The desire to supply all my tanks with co2 is real and weighing heavy on my mind. I lost some stems(probably the h2o2 I used) but the ones that are left are recovering. I just ordered a drop checker to get things more balanced but I have been injecting 2-4 bps per sec into an inline reactor. The new growth is so vibrant and algae is nearly non existent. Considering the move on my amanos since they all hang out on the driftwood waiting for me to feed the corys. I wish I had injected pressurized co2 a long time ago. I have taken a few plants that were living in other tanks but not thriving and put them in the 40. The lower leaves on some rotala compared to the new growth since put in the 40 is night and day. These plants are now thriving. My goal now is to get them to pearl. We'll see how that goes.


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## kyle3 (May 26, 2005)

Carpathian said:


> I will get pics up later, but just as I said before, I have become addicted to co2. The desire to supply all my tanks with co2 is real and weighing heavy on my mind. I lost some stems(probably the h2o2 I used) but the ones that are left are recovering. I just ordered a drop checker to get things more balanced but I have been injecting 2-4 bps per sec into an inline reactor. The new growth is so vibrant and algae is nearly non existent. Considering the move on my amanos since they all hang out on the driftwood waiting for me to feed the corys. I wish I had injected pressurized co2 a long time ago. I have taken a few plants that were living in other tanks but not thriving and put them in the 40. The lower leaves on some rotala compared to the new growth since put in the 40 is night and day. These plants are now thriving. My goal now is to get them to pearl. We'll see how that goes.




Welcome to the dark side [emoji6]


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