# Riparium How-to: High-Humidity Setups



## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

*Riparium How-to: High-Humidity Setups*

I am starting this thread with a semi-orgainzed description of considerations and methods to have in mind when assembling a [B_]high-humidity riparium setup_[/B]. This kind of tank is best for growing certain emersed aquatic plants that require very humid air. It is important to note that not all emersed aquatics need to grow in such conditions. Emersed _Echinodorus_ swordplants, for example, are best grown with plenty of air circulation and somewhat drier air. The following lists the main groups of emersed aquarium plants that do require high-humidity:


_Cryptocoryne_--all crypts that I have grown, with the exception of _C. ciliata_, require very moist air
_Microsorum_ (Java fern)
_Anubias_--especially _A. barteri_ varieties. Some of the larger _Anubias_, such as _A. hastifolia_, may be less demanding of high-humidity.

There are certain other groups of plants that can grow and look right in a high-humidity setup, but these are the most useful ones that I have applied. These groups of plants are of special interest to aquarium hobbyists because they are readily available.

High-humidity ripariums displays can have a lot of visual appeal. The combination of the above water and below water areas in the same frame offers unique design opportunities. The next shot shows the best riparium of this kind that I have put together so far, a setu pthat I had going last year in a 55-gallon tank.










In addition to the enjoyment of the whole planted layout, a high-humidity riparium can be appealing in several other ways. It is intriguing to grow the emersed forms of aquatic plants and compare them with the underwater growth habits, which are often distinct. High-humidity ripariums can be used for a particular hobby area that has been gaining in popularity in recent years, the culture of emersed _Cryptocoryne_ for the sake of encouraging the development of _spathes_, their unique floral structures. The following picture shows a fresh spathe produced by the _C. usteriana_ that I currently have growing in a 20-gallon high-humidity riparium. 










The especially compelling feature of growing emersed crypts in a high-humidity ripairum setup is that it allows the enjoyment of the emersed growth of the plants and their spathes within a full planted layout including fish and other features. 

This post will quickly become too long with much additional explanation, so I intend to break up the narrative into several posts to follow. Here is the general organization that I have in mind.


Aquarium setup and life support.
Plant selection.
Riparium planters and planting methods.
Adapting aquatic plants to emersed growth and growing in the riparium.
Livestock 
Additional specific observations and tips.

With the next organized post that I write I'll start with considerations to have in mind while planning the aquarium enclosure for a high-humidity riparium.


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## Tigerfish (Jun 24, 2010)

Thanks for posting this, I will be following this thread!


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

Hey you bet. Please just chime in if you have any questions. I got the idea to start this thread because I get so many questions about humidity in planted ripariums. Really there are just a few groups of plants that need to grow in a closed-top, high-humidity setup, but there are some specific things to have in mind for good growing.


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## jreich (Feb 11, 2009)

i cant wait to read the rest of the article! thanks for taking the time to do this!


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

I am very interested in this, also. 
What sort of filter and water circulation are you using? 
Is there any accommodation for aerating the soil deep at the bottom of the tank?


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I am working on the next entry here and I'll have it up pretty soon.

For most of these riparium setups I like to use a regular canister filter. IF the water level is lowered then it can become necessary to do some plumbing retro-fit so that the intake and return can reach down to the water. 

These things work pretty much like regular planted tanks. You don't have to do anything special to aerate the substrate. I generally use a pretty shallow (1 1/2") gravel substrate, so I don't get any trouble with anoxia or anything like that.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

This will be a very interesting thread to follow! Obviously, to get high humidity you can't have the plants growing way above the top of the tank, so high water ripariums are out, and low height tanks are out, right?


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

Hoppy, Yep, the proportions of a setup like this are such that it is probably better to use a tank that is somewhat taller than deep.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

Here is the first section.

*1. Aquarium Setup and Life Support.*

*Aquarium Selection* The most important thing to have in mind while starting with a high-humidity riparium setup is that you should plan for the tank to be nearly completely covered with a canopy. The top covering will retain the moisture that evaporates from the water's surface and maintain proper humidity levels inside. Since the tank will have a canopy, you can just place a strip light right on top, thus avoiding having to hang up a pendant light fixture, as is necessary for some other kinds of riparium setups. 

Since you will need to lower the water level and still accommodate the emersed plant growth it is best to use a tank that is somewhat taller than it is deep (front-to-back). You might already have a tank setup on hand that will work very well for a high humidity setup. Here are several real good choices.


20 high (24 X 12 X 16)
25 gallon (24 X 12 X 20)
29 gallon (30 X 12 X 18)
38 gallon (36 X 12 X 20)
55 gallon (48 X 13 X 20)
65 gallon (36 X 18 X 24)

Notice that all of these save the 65 are 12" in the depth (front-to-back) dimension. These are very nice for crypts because most species/varieties will be able to fill into that space pretty well. You can also consider a tank 18" or more deep, but you will want to select the larger growing _Cryptocoryne_ and _Anubias_ to fill the background. If you wish to grow the larger _Microsorum_ Java ferns then it would be best to use a larger tank because they can grow to a pretty massive size rather fast.

The taller 12" deep tanks (such as the 55) can be difficult to work in because there is relatively little depth to work in. However, they will function just fine with some experimentation and careful training/pruning of plants. 

*Aquarium Setup:* The important point to have in mind while setting up the tank is that you will want to have some measure of control of ventilation, that is, the degree to which the canopy covers the top of the tank. The surest way to create a very humid environment inside of the tank is to maintain a completely covered top. However, if you do this you can expect the glass to be foggy much of the time. 

I have been able to maintain high humidities inside of the riparium while also preventing glass fogging by creating a narrow gap in front of the canopy and along the front of the tank--the warm air rising slowly along the front pane of glass is usually enough to prevent fogging. I don't have a great picture to illustrate this, but you can see it pretty well in this shot...










Keep in mind that you will likely have to do some adjustment and experimentation to find the right amount of canopy cover. If you have your display in a room that has very dry air because of air conditioning, central heating or your local climate then that 1" gap shown above might be too large and cause dry conditions inside of the tank.

I have not done any careful measurements, but I get the impression that most crypts and _Anubias_ plants require a relative humidity of about *80% or higher* to grow very well in the emersed condition. To review and add a few additional points, here are several factors that I have found to be important influences on the riparium enclosure humidity and glass fogging:


Degree of tank canopy coverage--tighter canopy = higher humidity
Water temperature--warmer water = more evaporation = higher humidity
Air temperature inside riparium and difference with room temperature--cooler air relative to inside of tank = more glass fogging

Like I said above, you will probably need to do some experimentation and readjustment to get the correct relative humidity inside of the riparium. The best way to assess conditions is with careful observation of your plants. If there is adequate humidity in the air your emersed crypts will have attractive, erect foliage and bright colors. If the air becomes too dry, on the other hand, they will begin to loose their colors, droop and suffer burned leaf tips. Here are a couple of pictures of pretty happy emersed crypt plants from my collection...



















As a final not, you might also find it useful to acquire a *hygrometer with a remote sensor* to place inside your riparium for accurate measurement of air relative humidity. With careful observation of your emersed plants this won't really be necessary, but it could be another fun gadget to add to your setup. :icon_wink

This post has also run long, so I will divide this topic in half and return with some ideas about *Life Support*. This will include a discussion about misters, a continuation of the humidity topic, as well as water filtration and water heating.


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## thrak76 (Aug 3, 2009)

This is a great resource you've started here, Hydrophyte. Thanks! 

It may now be the time for me to start a riparium, as i just picked up 20H at the petco sale!


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

A 20H is a real nice shape. You can get a nice little collection of crypts and other stuff going in there.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

*(continued) 1. Aquarium Setup and Life Support.*

*(continued) Aquarium Setup:*

There is one last observation that I have on tank setup. As explained above, with some adjustment and observation you can set up a high-humidity tank with minimal fogging on the front pane of glass by leaving a narrow gap in the _front_ of the top canopy covering. The hinged glass "versa top" type canopies can be set up wit this gap very easily through simple removal of the plastic strip along the back edge. By sliding a versa top canopy with the plastic stripped removed to the back of the aquarium top, you will leave 1" or so gap there along that top front edge. 

*Lighting:* Crypts, _Anubias_, Java fern and the other plants that I have grown in high-humidity ripariums all grow well with moderate light intensity. By keeping lighting brightness at a moderate level you can prevent excessive algae growth in the underwater area of your display. I have generally found a single T5 strip light with reflector to be more than adequate for this kind of riparium. Here is a picture of the display in my 55-gallon tank with one 48", 54-watt T5 strip hung as a pendant above.










I actually found this light to be a bit too bright, so I positioned it higher above the tank to slow the growth of the plants and prevent the algae growth that developed in the forn of the underwater area. 

In summary, plants growing in a high-humidity setup will require only moderately bright light. While choosing a fluorescent lamp to light your tank you will do best to select one with a full-spectrum, "daylight" color temperature approximating natural sunlight. Many crypts in particular have beautifully subtle combinations of green, red, brown and metallic colors. Full-spectrum lighting will offer the best color rendering and 
best display of these hues. 

*Filtration & water circulation:* A point that I have not raised yet is that you will probably find it best to fill the tank holding your high-humidity riparium display to somewhat less than 1/2 full. A tallish aquarium filled to about 30% or 40% of total depth will still have plenty of abovewater space for the emersed plant growth. I do not recommend reversing these proportions--that is, filling to more than 1/2 full--as a tank with that much water will not have much room for the emersed plants and would probably also have less appealing proportions overall.

Canister filters are the preferred method of filtration for riapriums and other kinds of planted tanks. They are relatively unobstrusive in the display, with only the intake and return pipes in the water, can filter for long periods between cleanings, and do not cause excessive surface filtration. If you use a canister filter in a high-humidity riparium the intake and return will have to reach 10" or more to reach the water level. Depending on the make and model of your filter, you may find it necessary to retrofit the plumbing assembly. The next picture shows a simple modification that I applied to a Filstar system so that it could filter the 55-gallon setup.










I put this together with the filter's existing plumbing hardware, some 1/2" plastic irrigation pipe, flexible vinyl hose (as sleeves joining the pipes) and nylon hose clamps. 

If you do not have a canister filter available you might also consider a submersible power filter or air-driven sponge filter. It might be difficult squeeze a power filter into the underwater space, but most models should fit if positioned horizontally. If you use an air-driven filter be aware that the surface agitation will cause most of the CO2 in the water column to outgas and escape, so it will not be available to underwater plants. It is generally best to use some underwater plants because their foliage will brighten the underwater area, which tends to be shaded by the emersed plant growth.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

Tomorrow I will start with the "Plant Selection" section--this will be interesting!--so watch out for that.


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## jreich (Feb 11, 2009)

more more more please


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

jreich said:


> more more more please


Yes, tomorrow came and went, and is now not even still yesterday.:hihi:

I hope we can store this thread some way so it is easy to find later.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

*2. Plant Selection*

There are three main groups of plants, classified by position and planting method, to consider in the high-humidity riparium layout:


Emersed Background Plants
Emersed Midground Plants
Underwater Foreground Plants

*Emersed Background Plants:* This category includes a large number of possibilities. The broadest ranges of shapes and foliage colors are to be found among the crypts (_Cryptocoryne_), most of which can be adapted to grow emersed and thrive in a riparium display. many very good riparium crypt choices are easy to find in the aquarium hobby. It is generally best to select the larger-growing species and varieties. Very short crypts (such as _C. parva_) may grow well enough in the riparium, but will tend to get lost in the whole planting. Among the crypts that I have tried, the following have performed the best as riparium plants:


_Cryptocoryne wendtii_ (any of various varieties_
_C. pontederiifolia_
_C. lutea_
_C. moehlmannii_
_C. ciliata_
_C. cordata_ (certain varities)
one that I think might be _C. undulata_ (?)

Aside from being good-sized, these crypts are also relativelly sturdy and stand up well in the emersed state. There are a few others (e.g., _C. balansae_) that are very soft and flaccid when grown emersed and better kept as underwater plants. 

_Cryptocoryne ciliata_ is an unusual case. Unlike the other crypts that I have tried, _C. ciliata_ does not require very humid air and will grow just fine in an open-top riparium setup. It will also thrive in a high-humidity riparium, but the tank should be relatively tall (preferably >24") because it is a fast grower and reaches a large size. This plant is also unusual in that it will grow in brackish water; in the wild it uses river estuaries and mangrove swamps as habitats. I have heard that because of its differences plant taxonomists have actually considered splitting _C. ciliata_ off into its own genus, but as far as I know it is still considered to be a _Cryptocoryne_. I highly recommend growing it if you have a largish tank. When grown emersed it blooms readily with these fantastic spathes.










When I had these plants I noticed that the spathe had a strong pumpkin odor while open. 

The easiest way to grow crypts in a riparium is to pot them up in a riparium hanging planter. This picture shows a very robust _C. wendtii_ (maybe var. 'Red' (?)) rooted in a hanging planter. 










It is generally best to hang a number of these planters + plants on the rear pane of glass in the riparium in order to make a nice, full planted layout. To reiterate an earlier point, an especially appealing bonus of growing crypts in a riparium is that their _spathes_, their unusual floral structures, can be enjoyed along with the rest of the planted layout. The next picture shows the spathe of _C. pontederiifolia_. This species is easy to bloom in a riparium.










In addition to crypts, another popular group of aquarium plants, the _Anubias_ species, can also function well as emersed riparium background plants. The several varieties of _A. barteri_ are not so suitable for the riparium background because they grow in a horizontal manner with creeping rhizomes. Much better options for the background are larger, more erect _Anubias_ such as _A. hastifolia._










That particular specimen is also rooted in a hanging planter. This and other tall _Anubias_, such as _A. frazeri_, _A. gigantea_ and _A. afzelli_, also grow from rhizomes, but their rhizomes are tighter and do not "run" as fast as those of _A. barteri_, so they can grow well in a hanging planter for some time. Emersed riparium _Anubias_ will also reward you with spathes. The spathes of these plants are less pretty than those of crypts, but interesting nonetheless. Here is the spathe of _A. hastifolia_.










There are several other groups of plants that deserve mention as high-humidity riparium background subjects. Most others that I have tried in these setups are used most often as houseplants, but grow very well in high-humidity and "look right" planted among crypts. Here is one that I have used because of its unusual pink coloration, a _Syngonium_ hybrid cultivar.










There are many other possibilities among _Syngonium _with variations in leaf pattern and color. Many (but not all) will grow well in a riparium.

One of the most useful groups of riparium plants are the _Spathiphyllum_ peace lilies. In the wild, most _Spathiphyllum_ grow in very moist soil, such as along the edges of rainforest streams and the margins of swamps, so they are preadapted for riparium conditions. Peace lilies are sold very often as houseplants and they are easy to find. They will also bloom in the riparium with bright white spathes.










One last kind of plant that deserves mention as a companion for crypts in a high-humidity riparium is _Dieffenbachia_. Some varieties of _Dieffenbachia_ will grow well in riparium culture and most offer the unusual option of white-variegated leaves. The best cultivar that I have found so far is 'Camille'. This one grows well in ripariums and stays relatively small.










If you do try growing _Dieffenbachia_ in your riparium be aware that it has _*highly toxic sap*_. It can cause serious damage including chemical burns if ingested or if it contacts the skin. I ahve never had any trouble with toxicity to fish, but do not use this plant if you have children or plants that might be able to reach it. Be very careful with the cut tissue while repotting or pruning your _Dieffenbachia_ plant. 

This post has run long. I will finish this section with the discussion of emersed midground and underwater foreground plants in another entry.

(to be continued)


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I have a fun update for another good high-humidity riparium plant. The _A. hastifolia_ that I have going in a 56 Column sent up a second spathe and I got a shot of this one still open. It was beautiful.










This plant gets tall and big. It would be a good choice for a riparium in a 75 or a 90.

I started a "Bloom Report" thread about it too...

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/plants/115242-bloom-report-anubias-hastifolia.html#post1159003


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I don't have a new entry ready yet, but here is a quick video of two real good plant selections for high-humidity ripariums, Windelov Java fern and _Crypt. pontederiifolia_. The video is also a good demonstration of how the plants are planted with the hanging and floating riparium planters.

*12-X-10 Riparium Planters Demo Scratch II*

That Windelov is an especially handy riparium foreground plant. Unlike regular Java fern it stays small, so it's a perfect choice for planting on the Nano Trellis Raft. It has grown well, but slowly, on the raft and looks real good in the tank.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I have gotten a couple of inquiries about this thread and I might try to finish it if I can find time.

I might also just turn it into a magazine article.

I do have an article on another theme coming out in a print publication in a couple of months. I'll post a link with details when it is published.


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## VaultBoy (Nov 11, 2010)

I have just seen this for the first time... please finish it


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I will try to add some more. I might just work on the magazine article to get something more polished.

Which hobby magazines do you gat there in Australia? DO you have any published right there?


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## VaultBoy (Nov 11, 2010)

I have only ever seen one magazine here. It was supposedly a quarterly publication but i have never seen it again.

I rely on the internet almost entirely for any and all information relating to the hobby.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

Wow I haven't been back into here in a while.

I am working on a couple of high-humidity setups and I hope to have some new pictures, so I am resurrecting this thread.


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

This is my first time here and it was very informative and the photos are awesome!


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I really like this kind of setup. I don't know why I haven't seen many other people start a high-humidity riparium. It is a great way to keep a collection of emersed crypts and other collector stuff as a real display with fish, rather than as a growout tank with shallow water. I wish that I hadn't gotten rid of that 55G that I had.


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

hydrophyte said:


> I really like this kind of setup. I don't know why I haven't seen many other people start a high-humidity riparium. It is a great way to keep a collection of emersed crypts and other collector stuff as a real display with fish, rather than as a growout tank with shallow water. I wish that I hadn't gotten rid of that 55G that I had.


 
My 150 was a blast when it was setup as a high humidity riparium.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

That setup that Craig had really was cool. It isn't necessary for maintaining humdity, but that tank had a misting slystem which made a cool effect. Do you still have nay pictures of that setup Craig?


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## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

hydrophyte said:


> That setup that Craig had really was cool. It isn't necessary for maintaining humdity, but that tank had a misting slystem which made a cool effect. Do you still have nay pictures of that setup Craig?


My full journal should still be around here somewhere I try not to delete pictures so if I ever want to go back and revisit ideas I can still see them.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

I will try to quote a few if I can find the entries.


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

Here is a recent shot of the high-humidity planting that I have going in a 20 High.


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## fusiongt (Nov 7, 2011)

Would love to see a gecko up top and fish on bottom


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## hydrophyte (Mar 1, 2009)

It would be really difficult to keep any kind of animal with emersed crypts. The leaves are so soft that they can be flattened real easy. 

I think that a riparium would be way too much water for a gecko. I would worry about the gecko falling in and drowning.


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## MurphyC (Mar 29, 2013)

I have read a great deal about ripariums over the last few days, your work is simply amazing.And on the back of my research I am now planning to take down my thickly planted tank in order to start over in this manor.


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## frenchie1001 (Jun 23, 2013)

Great post! I feel a lot less daunted now. With hanging the plants, are they a off shelf thing or did you adapt something?


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