# Review - Aquatraders SnakeEyes LED Quad 30" 3W Timer Ready 6500K



## Leaky Filter (Nov 30, 2011)

Subscribed. I'm really interested in this light, as I need something similar for a 36 gallon bowfront and want pretty good light.

I was literally about to pull the trigger on a Catalina T5HO rig.

Please update!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

dbarrym said:


> Found myself in need of additional lighting for my new tank, a planted 30" x 18" , 24" deep 56G column tank. After a couple weeks it has become obvious that the current lighting, a 30" Ray2 and Fugeray, were not sufficient to support the micro sword carpet I hope to grow, based on the 4x initial 2" square patches that were starting to yellow and wilt. I've seen the PAR data charts published by Finnex, and it appears that at my current 22" depth the current lighting, at about 20 PAR or so, not enough.
> 
> After a lot of research, it was clear that adding another ray 2 or other typical 6.5-10K LED fixture wasn't going to help the PAR value at this depth (about 20-22" from the LED base) - I didn't need more 0.2W LED's, I needed more intensity/power (lumens or watts per LED). I can't spend $400 on a brand-name HO 'super-LED" fixture, so after searching about I found this 48x 6,500K LED, 144 watts fixture from Aquatraders. The review on other, mostly older t5 lights from this supplier were mixed, but I thought I'd take a chance and try one. This thread will be a review of my experiences with it, since I could find no reviews of this specific unit. The fact that it is on sale for $129 now didn't hurt. :wink:
> 
> ...



some interesting background:
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/led-fixture-question-185918.html

Some number crunching:

Looks like it does 112 lumens/watt
In comparison:


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## bhazard451 (Jan 24, 2013)

I had it before I downgraded a bit on my 23 gallon tank. It's a beast, but make sure you install the fans or it will get very hot.

It has a very good chance of working with the Current Ramp Timer Pro and other controllers as well. My Beamswork works 100% with it. Don't even bother with the Beamswork timers.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

That light is 37.5 lumens per watt. The LEDs are outputting ~112 lumens but being run at 3W so make sure the fan keeps working on that thing because if they go out you are most likely going to experience thermal failure on those emitters.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> That light is 37.5 lumens per watt.


opps.........


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

I have the 48" version, center area 80-90 PAR at 21" water depth.
You need another light or keep this light fixture at least 6" above water, because it is 30 degree beam angle, too close to the water, top front and back section no light. 
I keep the fixture 2" above the wate, top front and back of the fish tank is dark, now waiting for parts to add LED light strips.


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

Bettatail said:


> I have the 48" version, center area 80-90 PAR at 21" water depth.
> You need another light or keep this light fixture at least 6" above water, because it is 30 degree beam angle, too close to the water, top front and back section no light.
> I keep the fixture 2" above the wate, top front and back of the fish tank is dark, now waiting for parts to add LED light strips.


I assembled mine (no instructions, but not too hard to figure out) and have been playing with it...it is significantly brighter to the eye but I did notice the narrow angle as well, using the stock tank mounts it helps but raises it 6" above the water. I did buy the hanging kit and will be suspending it about 2" above water surface as you did. I may still use my Ray2 in front to fill the gap, will play with it this weekend.

My initial take is that it is not as well made as the higher priced lights, but that was expected. My bigger issue is the fan mounting, besides being a pain to get the wire mounts in the tracks (finally had to take one end cap off the housing to get them in), they vibrate horribly and make plenty of noise. I'm going to fabricate a soft fan mount but may replace the fans with some old ball bearing PC power supply fans to keep the noise down.

How hot does the aluminum case get after extended use? Did you have the same issue, and what did you do re the fan noise?

I'll post some pics soon. I like the light output, so for the price a little engineering work won't be a deal breaker for me, but may be for those that want a ready to use light out of the box (I build airplanes and restore/race vintage cars so have a shop full of tools and equipment :icon_smil )

Barry


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

there are two fans on mine, they were both PITA to put on the track, but I managed to mount them without breaking anything.
one of the fans is a little loose too, thus vibrate. I stick a pen cap between the fans and the fixture to stop the vibration, will find some rubber strip to fill the track or to modify the wire clamp on the fans later.
once the vibration stop, the fans actually real quiet.

as long as the fans are running, the fixture case is warm when touch.

the two ballasts, are extremely hot, still need a solution to cool them...


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

Thanks for the feedback.

I have a simple solution for the vibrating fan mounts - "pot" them in place using black silicone RTV, making sure to encapsulate the wires where they touch the housing. That should eliminate the rattling caused by the fan's vibration. I will try that simple approach first, and if need be will replace the fans later with smoother running (ball bearing) fans of the same size/input power.

Regarding the "ballasts" (they are really AC-DC power supplies and/or LED drivers), I'll get some temp readings once I leave them on for a few hours. A simple solution would be to simply blow a fan over them, but if they get hot enough mounting them into a simple open ended box with a fan pulling air over them should work in an enclosed space (like in an enclosed tank stand). I used to use a lot of hot-running batteries in my older tech RC models and have a fan-equipped "charging/cooling box" I can re-purpose here if needed.

So far I am 50-50 on this product, out of the box it has some flaws that need addressing. But reserving final judgement until I get it in use.

Barry


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

dbarrym said:


> Thanks for the feedback.
> 
> I have a simple solution for the vibrating fan mounts - "pot" them in place using black silicone RTV, making sure to encapsulate the wires where they touch the housing. That should eliminate the rattling caused by the fan's vibration. I will try that simple approach first, and if need be will replace the fans later with smoother running (ball bearing) fans of the same size/input power.
> 
> ...


When you get all that straightened out, you can work on replacing some of the 6500k's w/ say 3500k... 

Actually shouldn't be too hard..


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> When you get all that straightened out, you can work on replacing some of the 6500k's w/ say 3500k...
> 
> Actually shouldn't be too hard..


Why? Explain please? If you are referring to the 'white' spectrum, I had seen that comment made previously on another forum, it's not that big a deal to me in this case - I want to get enough lighting intensity to grow my carpet plants during the primary 6-8 hour (TBD) photoperiod I'm using. FWIW, this tank is in my bedroom, and most viewing will be in the evening when I'll likely just use the Fugeray alone on demand to provide low level illumination, when needed.

If the 3500K LEDs (or a mix of 3500/6500K) are better for growing plants, then that's another matter, but I haven't seen any data yet on the LEDs used in this unit to have an opinion (yet).

Not being snarky, I have an engineering degree and background but photonics and aquaculture are not my areas of expertise. 

Barry


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

dbarrym said:


> Why? Explain please? Data to support?
> 
> Not being snarky, I have an engineering degree and background but photonics and aquaculture are not my areas of expertise.
> 
> Barry


The led's are just surface mounted to a circuit board.. Lenses just "clip on" I believe.. IF these are "Beamswork Clones".. which they look to be..

Only small gotcha is how the center is attached.. If just thermal paste no problem. If soldered, a bit more work.. Same w/ thermal epoxy..

most 3w whites are the same or similar V(f)...

http://scapeclub.org/forum/showthread.php?19336-MOD-Rework-on-a-Beamswork-LED-from-10K-to-6-5K


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> The led's are just surface mounted to a circuit board.. Lenses just "clip on" I believe.. IF these are "Beamswork Clones".. which they look to be..
> 
> Only small gotcha is how the center is attached.. If just thermal paste no problem. If soldered, a bit more work.. Same w/ thermal epoxy..
> 
> ...


Interesting link, thanks...of course they are talking about the 1W version of this fixture (it appears to be the same manufacturer as Beamswork, SnakeEyes, EVO and GreenElement are probably just brand names or product lines). This comment I found interesting:



> As in my past interests from a aquaponics/ hydroponics standpoint I know that Blues penetrate the water deeper and produces a much more compact growth with the nodes growing close together.


So good to know that if I want to add a few blue/actinic or red LEDs to improve the color spectrum or visual appearance, it's not a big deal to do. Again thanks for the link.

Barry


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

dbarrym said:


> Interesting link, thanks...of course they are talking about the 1W version of this fixture (it appears to be the same manufacturer as Beamswork, SnakeEyes, EVO and GreenElement are probably just brand names or product lines). This comment I found interesting:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes, for awhile I ran my tank w/ 10000k white/actinic blue LED's. The Water Wysteria had like zero inter-node length... Just leaf stacked on leaf.. 

I forgot to mention the 1W but assume the 3w are identical config.. 

I had an earlier discussion on this fixture and I'm beginning to suspect ll those extra chips comprise a constant current driver.. 
Which makes the "power supplies" just that.. switching power supplies..

IF that is true colored LED's w/ different V(f) should be no problem.. 

That does pose a different problem.. Dimming.. Unlike the .5W SMD type lights (CV strings till I find out differently).. these would be un-dimmable.. Timer sure..


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

dbarrym said:


> Regarding the "ballasts" (they are really AC-DC power supplies and/or LED drivers), I'll get some temp readings once I leave them on for a few hours. A simple solution would be to simply blow a fan over them, but if they get hot enough mounting them into a simple open ended box with a fan pulling air over them should work in an enclosed space (like in an enclosed tank stand). I used to use a lot of hot-running batteries in my older tech RC models and have a fan-equipped "charging/cooling box" I can re-purpose here if needed.
> 
> 
> 
> Barry


Good to know and thanks for the suggestion, I will probably mount a fans to blow air on them, actually I ordered a spare fans for the fixture.



> As in my past interests from a aquaponics/ hydroponics standpoint I know that Blues penetrate the water deeper and produces a much more compact growth with the nodes growing close together.


Interesting, is it ok if I use led light strip to add more blue? the strip I ordered is RGB SMD 5050 with remote controller.
The green element EVO snake eyes is indeed manufactured by the same producer who make the beamswork, and this EVO fixture is 6500K but it appears "warm" in my tank, and add some blue will make tank look better, I guess.

Here is the picture of the fish tank, look empty, start for about 4 weeks now and most of the plants were added several days ago, still waiting for all plants to multiply so I can "scape" the tank.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Why not just more efficient (i.e cooler) switching power supplies??
5050's are not the best choice.. 
5630's would be better, example:
http://www.dhgate.com/product/green...ips|c||0LRF|&gclid=CLn1is6F4r8CFRGAaQodnKAADQ
But to me it looks like a tannin or water quality problem.. not lighting..

Fill a small bowl or tank w/ cheap distilled water.. put the fixture over it. See if the light still looks yellow. 6500k is "always" noticeably blue.. to me..


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

jeffkrol said:


> Why not just more efficient (i.e cooler) switching power supplies??
> 5050's are not the best choice..
> 5630's would be better, example:
> http://www.dhgate.com/product/green...ips|c||0LRF|&gclid=CLn1is6F4r8CFRGAaQodnKAADQ
> ...


good call! it is tannin.
it is from the old filter media, old tank water was crystal clear but a large amount of dead plant mass was locked in the filter media, after bottom up the fish tank 4 weeks ago, tannin released, tank water was pretty dark the first two weeks but now became more clear.
I didn't pay attention to the disappearing tea color water when I observe the new fixture light, and, give it a couple more weeks once the tannin gone, the color of the tank shall be much better.

I didn't know 5630 led is better than 5050, anyway, the most available high output LED strip that I could find at the time was 5050, and I've already ordered it, received it. guess I will just stick with it and put on the new fixture once have time to do so.

old tank picture:


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

*The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly*

OK, after an 'eventful' weekend I finally got a chance to modify and install the SnakeEyes fixture. I used black RTV to encapsulate and lock down the fan mounts, and that solved the rattle issue (yay!). However the fans still vibrate far more than they should, one so bad that it is absolutely not acceptable - the fan is way out of balance or the fan case (not the mounting) is warped. I'll contact AquaTraders to see if I can get them to replace the bad fan, if not I'll look for replacement quality ball bearing fans.

I hung the fixture from the ceiling and left a 4" gap to the water surface, just enough that I can still use the two Finnex fixtures to fill in the front and rear shaded areas from the narrow 30 degree angle of the SnakeEyes lenses (to provide some blue and red plus the moonlight feature if wanted). I did not like the ceiling mount hooks provided with the optional ceiling mount kit, so I replaced those with simple brass hooks and ceiling/wallboard insert mounts. The plastic coating hanging wire and adjustment clamps are fine, the hangers themselves are fine (if a bit loose in the housing), but being single point mounts the fixture can easily tilt off-center from the weight and pull of the (three) power cords if you are not careful. But functional enough.

I'm having an issue with Photobucket at the moment, so will post pics later of the tank with Fennex lights (Ray2, Fugeray) only; the SnakeEyes only; and with all on. Overall, I'm happy with the amount of light, the difference in intensity is readily apparent in the pictures, and the 'color' is warm to my eye, though it does wash out the reds a bit. 

*The good:*

Very pleased with the amount/intensity of light, especially for $129!
Excellent pricing and reasonably fast shipping (4 days via Ground, ordered Sunday late PM, shipped Monday), well packed
Attractive enough, does not look 'cheap' and the housing is thin and looks good.
Plugs for lighting power source on both sides of fixture (with screw-on caps), or may be there to allow daisy-chaining of additional fixtures or LED strips (my guess).

*The bad:*

Poor fitting and rattly fan mount system, not usable as delivered without modification (easy enough to do, however)
Bulky and external wiring for fans, dual power cables for lights, not integrated with lighting power supply and cable harness (has 3 separate cables going to fixture)
Runs warm, definitely needs fans (see additional comments to follow)
Single point mounts on fixture for hanging, easily tilts from cable weight and location

*The ugly*

Cooling fans are poor quality sleeve bearing types and pretty noisy. Absolutely no way I would use these in a quiet location.
One fan defective and unusable as delivered

As to temp concerns, it's not as bad as I initially thought. I used an infrared temp meter to check after an hour and a half of operation in a 79.8 degree room with the following results:

Fixture side with fan operating, top surface 2" from fan - 91.9 degrees
Fixture side with/o fan - 112.6 degrees
Power supplies inside base of tank cabinet - 109.7 degrees at hottest location
I'll keep an eye on the power supply temps, as that is pretty warm given it's a plastic case and internal component temps are likely higher. 

Overall, for someone who does not mind tinkering a bit, this is a fair value...I'll reserve overall judgement until I see how Aquatraders handles the bad fan issue and I've had the unit running for a few weeks.

Pics to follow.

Barry


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Temps look on the safe side.. Possibly even good enough w/ out fans..depending on the mounting..


> LEDs generally must be operated at or below a junction temperature of 125°C.


http://www.leds.co.uk/news/85
257F...  JUST for reference and that is junction temp.. not heat sink temp. big difference.
My air cooled ones run that hot.. (29 3W)..as did my 10W (but they had beefier heat sinks)
The power supply is more problematic due to the capacitors.. but I think, easily replaced..


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

OK, so here are the pics...tank is a bit cloudy as I haven't done a WC yet this week. Note that this tank is only a few weeks old, the anarcharis and cabomba forest on the left will be removed once everything is well established and replaced with Vals or some other tall grass...the big Amazon sword was transplanted from my 20" tall 55g, so the tips of the longer leaves have yellowed where they were growing out of the tank.

*
Finnex only (30" Ray2 plus 30" FugeRay):*










*SnakeEyes only:*










*All on:*










If anyone wants, I can take pics later of the fan mounting, just let me know.

Barry


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Any here want to join this?
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=721001


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

Update on the fan situation - it took a while (a long while!), but Aquatraders did ship me a complete replacement fan kit (fans, power supply, cable, mounts - though all I needed was a single fan unit), which works fine.

As an update, I'm very happy with the light, especially for the price - just wish i could dim my lighting a bit as I'm very high light now, had to really up my ferts and Co2 to keep the algae under control. I am literally removing a pound of growth every week, the carpet (now S. repens) is doing great and the Jungle Vals grew at least a foot a week - some were (no kidding) at least 5' long when I skipped a week of maintenance. 

I removed all of the Anacharis and Cabomba as it was literally growing out of control, and my Amazon sword has grown 6" out of my tank (which is 24" tall) with at least 3 long runners with 3 to 4, 2" plantlets on each (anybody in San Diego want them, come and get 'em!).

Barry


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## brooksie321 (Jul 19, 2014)

This may be a bit redundant. . Why so much light for very undemanding plants??


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## klibs (May 1, 2014)

brooksie321 said:


> This may be a bit redundant. . Why so much light for very undemanding plants??


Seems like he's getting ridiculous growth. As long as algae is under control - why not?

Just because the plants don't need high light doesn't mean they don't want high light.


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## dbarrym (Jun 8, 2014)

dbarrym said:


> ..... After a couple weeks it has become obvious that the current lighting, a 30" Ray2 and Fugeray, were not sufficient to support the micro sword carpet I hope to grow, based on the 4x initial 2" square patches that were starting to *yellow and wilt*.


The micro sword and S. Repens carpet has taken off since changing the lighting.

Barry


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