# Eheim 2217 Repair Help



## BigL_RIP (Jul 12, 2013)

I have a brand new 2217 impeller and also shaft with bushings if you''re interested


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

BigL_RIP said:


> I have a brand new 2217 impeller and also shaft with bushings if you''re interested


Send picture?


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

I don't think he needs the bushings (small rubber piece). Looks like he needs the bottom plate or impeller cover.


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

http://www.eheimparts.com/display_product.php?pid=2217


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

jrill said:


> I don't think he needs the bushings (small rubber piece). Looks like he needs the bottom plate or impeller cover.


That's right I don't need a bushing. Sorry, I may have used the wrong terminology "bushing". I'm not sure what the part I need is called...



Okedokey said:


> http://www.eheimparts.com/display_product.php?pid=2217


I don't think the part I need is listed... I need the piece where the impeller cover snaps into. The tab broke off (see picture) I think the part that broke is apart of the whole motor...


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

7434660


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Sorry but that is one part that I consider out of my line to repair or replace as it is part of the head. I see it as part of the head rather than the cover that is broken. Price of the head is too high for me to replace in that it runs more than the used filter. 
Think you may be had???


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

Okedokey said:


> 7434660


This is not the right part.




PlantedRich said:


> Sorry but that is one part that I consider out of my line to repair or replace as it is part of the head. I see it as part of the head rather than the cover that is broken. Price of the head is too high for me to replace in that it runs more than the used filter.
> Think you may be had???


Yes, the head. Thank you. That tab on the head where part 7434660 snaps into is broken. Any ideas on how to fix?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I'm getting some feedback that says I might be wrong on my post. Not a problem with the feedback but I must not have been clear on what I felt was the problem.

I have seen several of these heads broken and several different ways to try to fix them but none that I have seen worked for very long.
As I see the problem, there is a small tab on each side of the cover plate. The cover rotates and the ends slide under the tabs molded on the head. In other words, the left side which is broken should have a tab and look much like the right side. Replacing the cover does no good as it is not broken. It is finding a way to make this cover snap into place when the tab is broken off the head. Replacing the head is out of practical due to price and making this small tab stay on is also something that I have not seen done well enough to work. 
This part is difficult enough to fix that I no longer buy a filter without checking the tabs are good.


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

I agree that it may be difficult to fix the missing impeller latch cover retainer but I would definitely try it.

I think the pump head materials are made of ABS plastic but I'm not positive. You may be able to fashion a similar latch lock using a plastic mirror clamp but would need to measure the existing latch lock for the correct dimensions. Epoxy may hold the replacement piece in place or you may be able to attach it using a SS screw.

I haven't needed to make this type repair but I would definitely give it some thought.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

deeda said:


> I agree that it may be difficult to fix the missing impeller latch cover retainer but I would definitely try it.
> 
> I think the pump head materials are made of ABS plastic but I'm not positive. You may be able to fashion a similar latch lock using a plastic mirror clamp but would need to measure the existing latch lock for the correct dimensions. Epoxy may hold the replacement piece in place or you may be able to attach it using a SS screw.
> 
> I haven't needed to make this type repair but I would definitely give it some thought.


 
That is excellent idea (mirror clamp).
Might need a dremel tool for some fine tunning/grinding ,but certainly could work.( I think)
I think I would opt for stainless steel screw to hold the mirror lock.
As for the repaired Magnet,, I think I would replace this.
If impeller does not spin true,then the ceramic shaft will be NFL (not for long).


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

The problem is the very tight tolerance of the repairs. The small latch is about a 1/4 inch so when we need to replace it, we are talking somewhat hard to do but then to further complicate things, the original design requires some pressure between the latch and the cover end so that the ends "pops" under the tab. There has to be some flex for the cover to hold in place and not vibrate or come loose. This is one place where there is a lot of movement when we need to clean the impeller but then has to be pretty tight when we snap the cover into place. 
I would be really interested in seeing somebody work out a successful solution but for now, I've given up. I've never broken one either but then I do find several that have been broken.


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## jrill (Nov 20, 2013)

PlantedRich said:


> I'm getting some feedback that says I might be wrong on my post. Not a problem with the feedback but I must not have been clear on what I felt was the problem.
> 
> I have seen several of these heads broken and several different ways to try to fix them but none that I have seen worked for very long.
> As I see the problem, there is a small tab on each side of the cover plate. The cover rotates and the ends slide under the tabs molded on the head. In other words, the left side which is broken should have a tab and look much like the right side. Replacing the cover does no good as it is not broken. It is finding a way to make this cover snap into place when the tab is broken off the head. Replacing the head is out of practical due to price and making this small tab stay on is also something that I have not seen done well enough to work.
> This part is difficult enough to fix that I no longer buy a filter without checking the tabs are good.


I agree with rich. Not good for the op


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## FatherLandDescendant (Jul 24, 2014)

PlantedRich said:


> This part is difficult enough to fix that I no longer buy a filter without checking the tabs are good.


I understand what your getting at with your position on this, but doesn't the head come apart? I don't know about the Eheim but couldn't the bottom plate in this case (if one could be found) be replaced, or do they sonic-weld the head casings together? Just wondering. If the housing comes apart, a bottom plate and new housing seal would make it almost like new again.

@Deedas suggestion; if the OP uses a screw then water can be introduced into the inside of the housing and thus shorting the motor out. 

Another thing one could try is an epoxy lump where the tab is suppose to be then drimmel out a channel for the tab to slide under.


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

I agree that any DIY fix of this particular problem is going to be problematic, nothing is as good as the original design. I also understand there is a bit of 'flex' of the plastic parts due to the nature of the latch mechanism.

At FLD, the only portion of the pump head that comes apart is the cover on the top of the pump head where the pump (epoxy sealed) is located and the integral output pipe & o-ring seal.


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## FatherLandDescendant (Jul 24, 2014)

deeda said:


> At FLD, the only portion of the pump head that comes apart is the cover on the top of the pump head where the pump (epoxy sealed) is located and the integral output pipe & o-ring seal.


If it's a 2 piece housing one could, if they could find it, replace the bottom half of the assembly.

It did appear that way in schematics from the link Okedokey provided that this was possible, though they don't list a part# for that plate/molding.


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

The bottom portion does not come apart, you would need to buy the whole pump head which is more than what the OP wants to do since it is the most expensive part of the filter.


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

FatherLandDescendant said:


> I understand what your getting at with your position on this, but doesn't the head come apart? I don't know about the Eheim but couldn't the bottom plate in this case (if one could be found) be replaced, or do they sonic-weld the head casings together? Just wondering. If the housing comes apart, a bottom plate and new housing seal would make it almost like new again.
> 
> @Deedas suggestion; if the OP uses a screw then water can be introduced into the inside of the housing and thus shorting the motor out.
> 
> Another thing one could try is an epoxy lump where the tab is suppose to be then drimmel out a channel for the tab to slide under.


2 very good points!

I don't wanna short the motor.

I could Dremel out an epoxy lump, clever. 

Otherwise yes, I believe the head comes apart and I could possible replace the entire bottom plate if possible. It looks like is held together by snaps. I'll have to address this at another time.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Thoughts on the suggestions? 
An epoxy lump to stick to the bottom of the head sounds good but even the best of adhesives have some limits. Does epoxy hold while I grind a notch to fit and then there is the question of making the small indent in the slot to make the two parts latch together.:icon_ques:icon_ques
Heat and vibration are two things that make me think the epoxy gives up and then the problem of doing real precision with a hand held Dremel ? 
Along the way, I decided there were gambles with better odds! 
As a starter, should somebody else want to try it, I did have another possible fix in mind. I might feel better about shaping the end of a stick of hobby styrene square stock to fit the latching. Then when the correct shape was in place, the square stock could be cut and a section of it screwed/glued to the bottom of the head. Downside is that I have no way of knowing where the magnetic coil is or what other parts might be just right where I drilled for the screws? Drilling through the coil wires will make any labor on forming the latch a total waste.


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## jstehman (Dec 13, 2010)

Since the pump head is screwed anyways..

You could try using 2 stainless self tapping screws to hold down a "bridge" 
or "strap" over the bushing housing taking the place of the broken tab.

Doing so may let water enter the pump head.. don't know if its epoxy sealed in there but more importantly will let water exit the pump housing onto your floor

Or use a bic lighter to "weld" some plastic together (good option) (be careful)

You will not be able to remove the cover for impeller cleaning however...(unless you are SUPER crafty in your repair)

Most definitely a temporary ghetto fix as any other glued piece will surely fail or allow slop in the impeller causing failure. 

Worth a shot 

Interested to see how this turns out


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## tylergvolk (Jun 17, 2012)

I haven't had the time today to pursue this any further. I had my hands full with setting up some plumbing on my current tank. Once I make a decision and try an idea I'll let you guys know. Thank you very much for all your suggestions they're all very doable it's just ideas and I appreciate it.


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## FatherLandDescendant (Jul 24, 2014)

PlantedRich said:


> Does epoxy hold while I grind a notch to fit and then there is the question of making the small indent in the slot to make the two parts latch together.:icon_ques:icon_ques


The latch in the remaining tab would have to be the lock. Epoxy would just keep the access plate down in place enough to keep the impeller from becoming misaligned, of course having to be that tight would lend some "latching" of its own albeit very little.




PlantedRich said:


> Heat and vibration are two things that make me think the epoxy gives up and then the problem of doing real precision with a hand held Dremel ?


If epoxy is done right neither heat nor vibration should be an issue, If it works on plastics in automotive applications the aquarium environment shouldn't pose a problem.

The precision grinding with a dremel is something a given individual would have to determine weather or not they have a steady enough hand to try, it is all together possible for one to cut into the housing.



PlantedRich said:


> I might feel better about shaping the end of a stick of hobby styrene square stock to fit the latching. Then when the correct shape was in place, the square stock could be cut and a section of it screwed/glued to the bottom of the head. Downside is that I have no way of knowing where the magnetic coil is or what other parts might be just right where I drilled for the screws? Drilling through the coil wires will make any labor on forming the latch a total waste.


Since we've determined that the housing is two piece that can be separated one could open the head and while looking inside know where they are drilling, then one could also seal the screws inside the assembly.

Then there is jstehman suggestion and a strap type band could be fitted with enough of a gap that could allow for removal of the cover plate, same thing here is to take apart the head assembly to see where your screwing and seal the screws from the inside.


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## Okedokey (Sep 2, 2014)

http://www.selleys.com.au/putty/epoxy/knead-it-aqua/


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## BigL_RIP (Jul 12, 2013)

for the pic request above


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## ZombieWatercrest (Sep 17, 2014)

You need the right kind of solvent to attach to this plastic - just generic epoxy probably won't hold for very long, the aqua weld type stuff is really better for sealing a leak or crack, not holding structural stuff in place. 

ABS and PVC plastics have solvents available that will stick things together quite nicely, used often in plumbing. weldon makes lots of plastic specific solvent cements for this type of stuff. 

If it's polyethylene or polypropylene ( HDPE LDPE UHMW ) then almost no glue will stick to it, and it used to be that nobody made solvents for it either. That's one of the reasons it's so good for things like 5 gallon buckets, few things stick to them or melt them. They're made by heating the plastic precisely, so the bic lighter trick might work, but it's also likely to just melt a hole right through the head. 

3M makes DP8005, which will bond polyolefins and the stuff is only $30, but to use the caulk stick it comes in I think you also need the $70 applicator gun. You could maybe try cutting open the tube and mixing it yourself, but it only has a 2-3 minute working life. 

You shouldn't drill into the head to fix it, much harder to cause a leak then stop it than it is to never have a leak in the first place. 

If you can find out what kind of plastic it's made of then you could use the appropriate solvent cement to attach a clamp or even just a big piece of wide plastic that could go over where the tab used to be. Doesn't even need to be tight like the original tab was, you could drill into this new peice of plastic and put a machine screw in that peice that would then clamp down on the impeller retaining piece.


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## ZombieWatercrest (Sep 17, 2014)

Here's a guide to identifying the kind of plastic, you either need to have one of the ID labels, or a sacrificial piece you can burn to see the smoke and smell. http://www.northwestpolymers.ca/index.php?option=content&task=view&id=18


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