# Failing brass check valves



## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

Over the last year, I have had three brass check valves fail on my pressurized co2 tanks with ceramic disk diffusers. I am quite frustrated because the brass ones are supposed to last a long time. They all have leaked through the body of the checker. soapy water shows co2 leaking through a part of the check valve which has become discolored. Check valves have failed from two separate sources, and they are Clippard valves. The only thing I can think of is since I operate solenoid systems, too much water backs up and slowly degrades the valve? Has anybody else had this issue, and if they have, does it make sense to try to set up a loop, or something to make it harder for the tank water to back up into the valve every night?
thanks
Kypros


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

I've had a similar issue with brass check valves also in that water starts creeping a few inches past the check valve over time so I've gone to using plastic valves. It's much less expensive to replace a plastic check valve every few months than a brass valve.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

A loop will not keep the water from creeping back. Actually it's not water creeping back, it is CO2 dissolving in water (which makes it look like water backing up).

It's possible that the carbonic acid rich water slowly corrodes the checkvalves.

Two possible solutions - get a different check valve, but still one that's spec'd for CO2. Personally I have very good experiences with a plastic CV made by Dennerle. A bit pricey (around $25) but lasts years.

Another idea would be to use the brass check valve close to the regulator, and add one of those cheap plastic CVs as a measure to keep the water away from the brass valve. Some of those plastic valves are glued a bit sloppy, so you want to either place them inside the aquarium, or check them regularly in case they fall apart. Not good for use with an external inline reactor where you could have an empty tank if the valve breaks.


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

Thanks, Wasser. PremiumAquatics has the Dennerle valve for $17.95. I'm going to give one of those a try.


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

Well, what I meant was when the solenoid goes off, water does back siphon ( I can tell because I have leaked tank water at the check valve). But I think I will try the dennerle or the really expensive german air brass ones. I still find it perplexing and puzzling because so many people use the Clippard ones without problem.
thanks



Wasserpest said:


> A loop will not keep the water from creeping back. Actually it's not water creeping back, it is CO2 dissolving in water (which makes it look like water backing up).
> 
> It's possible that the carbonic acid rich water slowly corrodes the checkvalves.
> 
> ...


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## jgb77 (Dec 13, 2006)

I too had the same problem with the brass check valves. I began using these about 6 months ago and have been very satisfied with them. The one I have now I've been using for 6 months and have not had any problems with it.
John


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

jgb77 said:


> I too had the same problem with the brass check valves. I began using these about 6 months ago and have been very satisfied with them. The one I have now I've been using for 6 months and have not had any problems with it.
> John


well, the price is sure right, I think i'll try them!


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

what is the right size for co2 line?



jgb77 said:


> I too had the same problem with the brass check valves. I began using these about 6 months ago and have been very satisfied with them. The one I have now I've been using for 6 months and have not had any problems with it.
> John


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## fishscale (May 29, 2007)

I had a problem with my check valves last year and ended up with a small puddle. Thankfully, I caught it pretty soon and shut it down. The valves weren't broken, but they were stuck. Try blowing through them to unstick them.


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## Firestarter (Dec 28, 2009)

I use 1/4 inch pressure rated CO2 tubing with compression fittings this ensures there are no leaks. You could try a stainless steel spring check valve.


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

Wasserpest said:


> ...Two possible solutions - get a different check valve, but still one that's spec'd for CO2. Personally I have very good experiences with a plastic CV made by Dennerle. A bit pricey (around $25) but lasts years...


I've received and installed my Dennerle valve. It's a nice valve and seems well made. I especially like the the fittings for attaching the tubing. I'm not sure what they're called but it's similar to the fitting for attaching the tubing to a JBJ bubble counter. The directions talk a good game about it being made with a CO2 resistant membrane.

Here's a pic of it in action.


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## FSM (Jan 13, 2009)

fishscale said:


> I had a problem with my check valves last year and ended up with a small puddle. Thankfully, I caught it pretty soon and shut it down. The valves weren't broken, but they were stuck. Try blowing through them to unstick them.


The clippard brass check valves take 7 PSI to open. You'll hurt yourself trying to blow through it.


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

I'm going to try the US Plastics check valves jgb77 mentioned. I'll see if they work and if they fail, I'll spring for the Dennerle. I'll post an update with my review of the new valves.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

I have had great luck with THESE. They are actually a penn plax brass check valve that if you look at my ptrader rating, I have sold some in the past. 

I loved them for 2 reasons. Cheap and reliable. I had mine set up for over a year with no failure. That being said, I think using two check valves is a good idea... A solid brass one close to the reg and a cheap one by the tank. Using Co2 tubing is important too, as leaky tubing will make the water back up that much quicker.


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

I don't use brass valves but I highly recommend using two. I have a homemade bubble counter that uses a check valve at the bottom of it close to the regulator. Then I have one about 10 in from the diffuser. I have found that not only have I caught failures earlier but they just tend to last longer in gerneral, not sure why. Either way, it is good insurance.


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## accordztech (Dec 6, 2004)

...I thought clippard brass check valves were top of the line, like the one at GLA? I got a email from them that it needs 5 psi to open.


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

I've been using one of these for 5 years, no problems.

http://www.bigalsonline.com/StoreCa...heck+valve+redsea&queryType=0&hits=12&offset=

I also have been using a brass one that I purchased from Oregan Aqua Design for six months, no problems.


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

jgb77 said:


> I too had the same problem with the brass check valves. I began using these about 6 months ago and have been very satisfied with them. The one I have now I've been using for 6 months and have not had any problems with it.
> John


Ive been using these now to for a month and so far so good. Although it takes the brass ones a while to lead through the body, but they are very cheap, .89 a pop I think.
Kypros


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## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Are the Clippard check valves made in China or a different plant in China? I've read an unusually high amount of posts addressing QC problems/complaints with them. They used to be flawless.

I know Orlando switched from the Clippard solenoids to another brand because of unusually high QC problems. The Clippard solenoids are made in China now and not in the USA, I hear.


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## BayBoy1205 (Jan 25, 2006)

Add me to the list of people with brass check valves going bad. I have been using it for a year now. Took the CO2 tank off this morning to get it refilled and I could see water creeping up the line. Thankfully I had another one to put in line until I get back home to fix it.


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## tuonor (Nov 26, 2009)

Jeff5614 said:


> I've received and installed my Dennerle valve. It's a nice valve and seems well made. I especially like the the fittings for attaching the tubing. I'm not sure what they're called but it's similar to the fitting for attaching the tubing to a JBJ bubble counter. The directions talk a good game about it being made with a CO2 resistant membrane.
> 
> Here's a pic of it in action.


What are the dimensions of this approx? Seems like a good idea but I have a limited amount of space to work with and it looks huge!


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## Bill W (Jul 10, 2009)

2" long by 1" in diameter at it's widest.


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

Kypros said:


> Ive been using these now to for a month and so far so good. Although it takes the brass ones a while to lead through the body, but they are very cheap, .89 a pop I think.
> Kypros


Okay, I can now update and say that these work great after 1.5 years, very cheap too.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369&catid=489


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

Kypros said:


> Okay, I can now update and say that these work great after 1.5 years, very cheap too.
> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369&catid=489



Is funny you updated this. I am looking for a better check valve since my plastic one cracked on me after 1 month of use. I was thinking about getting a brass one too...


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## Kypros (Nov 11, 2008)

tetra73 said:


> Is funny you updated this. I am looking for a better check valve since my plastic one cracked on me after 1 month of use. I was thinking about getting a brass one too...


I had two of the clippard valves leak through the body after about six months. I am very happy with the US Plastic ones so far.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

http://www.ark-plas.com/products/search.php?c=0&k=ap19cv0018vk&x=0&y=0

These are the OEM for the US Plastics valves. They will send you samples if you fill out their form. I got 2 CVs but I didn't specify how many I wanted. Somewhere I read that they'll give up to 5. They send you a nice color catalog as well as supplemental catalogs of all of their products. There are other size barbs as well as diaphragm materials. 

One thing about CVs that I learned and may be worth mentioning. You have to position them as close to the lowest pressure seen in the line. So if you're using a ceramic disk diffuser it should be positioned right at the point where the co2 line leaves the water, or as close as possible to it. The less back pressure they see, the better.


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## accordztech (Dec 6, 2004)

I go against everyone, and never used the brass ones. I use the cheap blue and clear ones, put 3 of them inline...they last me 6 months. But I havent changed them in over a year. =)


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

FSM said:


> The clippard brass check valves take *7 PSI* to open. You'll hurt yourself trying to blow through it.


Huh, not sure where you got that number but it only takes 1/2 psi. Here is the info from the catalog.


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## accordztech (Dec 6, 2004)

btimmer92 said:


> Huh, not sure where you got that number but it only takes 1/2 psi. Here is the info from the catalog.


I was quoted from orlando that his check valves require about 5psi to open


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

well.... don't know what to tell you, lol. I mean the info is right there. Maybe there was some sort of back pressure in the system when he tested it. That seems like the only real explanation.


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## Lucille (Jun 15, 2010)

Kypros said:


> Okay, I can now update and say that these work great after 1.5 years, very cheap too.
> http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23369&catid=489


There's a pageful of sizes, are the sizes mentioned inside diameter of your tubing?


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

jgb77 said:


> I too had the same problem with the brass check valves. I began using these about 6 months ago and have been very satisfied with them. The one I have now I've been using for 6 months and have not had any problems with it.
> John



About the same amount of time with mine, same valve. They fail. 2 of mine so far...


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

Lucille said:


> There's a pageful of sizes, are the sizes mentioned inside diameter of your tubing?



If you go here: http://www.ark-plas.com/products/detail.php?UID=58 , you can request samples. I got 2 of them that way but I hear they'll ship up to 5. No muss no fuss. They are the OEM.

GL


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