# Glass/Starphire questions



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I am checking around for a glass panel for a plywood tank that I am going to start building next year. Interesting... the prices quoted for that panel go from $250 to $700, it's crazy what you can save just by calling a bunch of different glass stores.

Anyway, two questions for those that have done something like this:

1) Is a polished edge necessary? They tell me that the tempering process will lead to edges that are not sharp, but some recommend polishing edges anyway, which adds around 15-17% to the price. Since it goes inside a plywood tank, I don't care about beveled edges, but not cutting my hand when scraping algae is always a nice detail.

2) The size of the panel is probably going to be 65x28. Do you think that a 1/2 in sheet would be safe, if it goes into a non-flexing plywood frame? I'd rather not go thicker, for weight, price, and distortion reasons. The tables I looked at don't specify whether the glass is tempered, and in my experience tempering adds a lot of strength to glass. Is it risky?


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

what is a plywood tank?


----------



## moogoo (Dec 7, 2007)

^ a tank made of plywood with a single panel that is glass.


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

sorry to hijack this, but how does it hold water then? Some kind of sealant (roofing stuff...)?


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Here is some reading for ya: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/77478-wps-55gal-270gal-plywood-tank-conversion.html

Yes, it is sealed with Epoxy.

Now back to my glass questions. :fish:


----------



## chuukus (Jun 17, 2008)

I would stay away from tempered glass I have heard so many bad things about it. I have seen a few plywood tanks made with 1/2" up to 400 gallons but im not sure how tall they were. Now if you made it 24" tall I would say for sure 1/2" is thick enough.

My plywood tank is 24"x96" with 1/2" starfire I havent filled the tank all the way yet but I have no worries about failure. I had the edges polished and beveled it didnt cost much I think you would be much happier with polished beveled edges then without.

It seems like I seen a diy plywood tank 580 gallons 96" long 48" deep 30" tall with 1/2 float glass IMO thats pushing your luck but it held water. So I would think 1/2" would be fine for your tank as long as the tank is built solid and doesnt flex. I will see if I can find the web page of the 580 gallon build for you to check out. There was some good documentation on that specific tank that might be of some help to you.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Thanks chuukus... what bad things have you heard about tempered glass? I believe if you have a tempered and a non-tempered sheet of the same thickness, the tempered one is much stronger. Isn't that a good thing?

It's about $50 to have the edges polished... but I am not convinced that is necessary for a tempered piece, which has no sharp edges to begin with.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Tempered glass is much stronger than regular glass. I can't see how it would be dangerous to use it for the viewing panel in a plywood tank. Of course, you will want the plywood frame that holds it to be very stiff too, like reinforced with a steel angle. If it does break, it won't just crack and leak out the water. It will shatter into a thousand small pieces and the water will all leave in a second - a demonstration of a "flash flood".


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

helgymatt said:


> sorry to hijack this, but how does it hold water then? Some kind of sealant (roofing stuff...)?


Many Epoxy's are available. The most commonly used one is Sweet Water Epoxy, pricy but heards it works great. I was considering one at one point.



Wasserpest said:


> Thanks chuukus... what bad things have you heard about tempered glass? I believe if you have a tempered and a non-tempered sheet of the same thickness, the tempered one is much stronger. Isn't that a good thing?
> 
> It's about $50 to have the edges polished... but I am not convinced that is necessary for a tempered piece, which has no sharp edges to begin with.


Why Tempered? Hoppy brings up a good point that if it fails it will be a flash flood. Also I think 1/2" is only recommended up to 24" tall. There are alot of good calculators out. Google the GARF plywood tank one. It is a great site and has some good info and calculations along with cut sheets if you enter the dimensions of your tank.

Also check out hte DIY section over at Monsterfishkeepers.com for some great info. Those guys have built some huge tanks 15000g+ JohnPTC over there has some great knowledge along with others.

Craig


----------



## rbarn (Mar 21, 2009)

Its the height of the water that determines pressure and glass thickness
not the total volume.

You could put a lake behind a 24" pane of glass, as long as water is only
24" deep, pressure does not change.

1/2" glass should be fine for a 24" deep tank.
MY 28" tall tank factory made tank only uses 1/2"


----------



## jinx© (Oct 17, 2007)

Honestly I would think 1/2" would work in your case because of the framing method involved. I'm assuming you're basically cutting a window into plywood, like your original ply-tank, so the glass is actually supported quite a bit more than a typical rimmed tank build IMO. 

The polished edges would be nice, but I think a piece of emery cloth could knock down any sharp edges well enough for your application considering the edges won't even be seen.

Tempered glass would stronger, but Hoppy has a valid point about on the differences in an event of a crack etc.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Thanks for all the replies, very much appreciated!



Hoppy said:


> Tempered glass is much stronger than regular glass. I can't see how it would be dangerous to use it for the viewing panel in a plywood tank. Of course, you will want the plywood frame that holds it to be very stiff too, like reinforced with a steel angle. If it does break, it won't just crack and leak out the water. It will shatter into a thousand small pieces and the water will all leave in a second - a demonstration of a "flash flood".


My thoughts exactly. If I had the choice between a weak and a strong glass... well... the CHANCE that the strong glass shatters is much less.



Craigthor said:


> Many Epoxy's are available. The most commonly used one is Sweet Water Epoxy, pricy but heards it works great. I was considering one at one point.


I think the most commonly used is West Epoxy. Sometimes covered with Sweet Water Epoxy paint. Some folks use a non-epoxy coating and cover that with Sweet Water paint. Many choices.



Craigthor said:


> Why Tempered? Hoppy brings up a good point that if it fails it will be a flash flood. Also I think 1/2" is only recommended up to 24" tall. There are alot of good calculators out. Google the GARF plywood tank one. It is a great site and has some good info and calculations along with cut sheets if you enter the dimensions of your tank.


Well, tempered because of the increased strength mainly. Now regarding the flash flood. Imagine you stand in front of your tank, scrub that tough diatom algae, and the front panel breaks. Would you rather have it break into 1000 pieces ("security glass"), or have a few pointed pieces poke holes into you? :eek5: Okay, most likely there will be just a crack, and in the ideal case you will have time to get the hose and drain the tank, still...



Craigthor said:


> Also check out hte DIY section over at Monsterfishkeepers.com for some great info. Those guys have built some huge tanks 15000g+ JohnPTC over there has some great knowledge along with others.
> 
> Craig


I checked many many plywood builds before I started mine, and you are right, there are some neat ones out there, and some showing what not to do. The most inspiring one for me was definitely this one: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1026436



rbarn said:


> Its the height of the water that determines pressure and glass thickness
> not the total volume.
> 
> You could put a lake behind a 24" pane of glass, as long as water is only
> ...


I disagree with you a bit, I think there IS a change of pressure as tanks get wider. Imagine a tank that is only 1 inch wide, you could build that very tall with very thin glass. As you add more depth (not height), the pressure increases. Of course there is not much change going from say 28" depth to 32" depth. But I think there is some noticeable change when you go from 12" (typical 55gal) to say 24", and the calculators I have seen do not take that into account.



jinx© said:


> Honestly I would think 1/2" would work in your case because of the framing method involved. I'm assuming you're basically cutting a window into plywood, like your original ply-tank, so the glass is actually supported quite a bit more than a typical rimmed tank build IMO.
> 
> The polished edges would be nice, but I think a piece of emery cloth could knock down any sharp edges well enough for your application considering the edges won't even be seen.
> 
> Tempered glass would stronger, but Hoppy has a valid point about on the differences in an event of a crack etc.


Thanks for confirming what I was thinking... again, stronger glass = will not crack, so perhaps no issue. When I took the hammer to my 55 gal tank, I was amazed how strong the tempered bottom really was, compared to the non-tempered sides.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

The water pressure depends only on the height of the tank, and even then, the pressure is maximum only at the bottom of the tank. But, the length of the glass panel is very significant. The longer it is, the more it tries to bend from the water pressure. That's why long tanks have the center brace across the top. But, if you stiffen the plywood frame, preferably with steel angles or channels, the glass won't be subjected to the bending.


----------



## lumpyfunk (Dec 22, 2004)

Wasserpest, 

That garage tank didnt take long to get you going on the indoor one! Is this one going to be 71 inches by any chance?

I cant wait to follow the build thread you do for this one!


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Yep, 71 inchers, how do you know??? :icon_eek: 

Before I really get started on this one, I have to take down the 100gal tank that sits there right now, remove the carpet, add tile... The latter two things are going to happen in November/December in almost the entire house, so you'll have to wait for a new plywood build thread until sometimes, hopefully early, next year...

But that won't keep me from drawing plans, asking question, and collecting parts early on.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Will this be a built-in-the-wall type, with the tank open for servicing in the adjacent room? That has always appealed to me, but I have never dreamed of actually doing it. I, too, look forward to the description of the project.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

You can see the existing 100 gal tank here:










So it will be somewhat built into the wall, but not accessible from behind. 

Basically I have here a 60x23x18 tank that I want to replace with a 70x30x30 tank. Along with that, I want to build some sort of book shelf on top up to the ceiling to make it all look like a piece of decent furniture that happens to include a tank.

It's pretty clear in my mind, although there are still questions about the exact dimensions, whether to remove the drywall behind it to attach it directly to the studs or not, automatic water change details, how to keep moisture down, etc.


----------



## chuukus (Jun 17, 2008)

I have seen tanks with tempered glass that have broke without even being touched. It is strong but it is under pressure just from being tempered thats why it breaks into soo many peices when hit just right. 

I read about some tank breaking from what they call spontanious breakage you might want to read up on it. My point is the glass is under pressure already just from being tempered then when it has hundreds of gallons of water aginst it now it has even more pressure if you hit it its going to break into a million peices where if you hit regular glass its more likely to chip especially if you hit the edge.

If you look around at all the different aquarium manufacturers I dont know of any that use tempered glass except some tank bottoms are tempered. There must be a reason for them not using tempered glass for all tanks I just think if it was better then thats what top of the line aquariums would be made of. Im not trying to tell you what to do Im just telling you what ive seen and read.

I wish you the best of luck on this project coming up and here is that huge 581 gallon tank using 12mm glass http://www.jonolavsakvarium.com/eng_diy/2200litre/2200litres.html


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I'll do some reading... Seems like there is a pretty small chance for tempered glass to include impurities and be prone to spontaneous breakage... very small. I will read some of the plywood tank builds to see what everyone is using.

Actually you can find many 55gal tanks that are manufactured with tempered glass all around. Some use tempered glass only on the bottom, I think that is mainly because it adds to the cost, and the bottom pane can be stressed the most (if the tank is not sitting exactly straight). Another reason for not using tempered glass is that it can't be drilled (after tempering)... and that is a common requirement for high end tanks.

With the epoxy that I am probably going to use, without fiber glass mats, I am not going to add heavy rocks inside the tank anyway, for fear of puncturing the epoxy layer. So the risk of hitting the glass should be fairly low (until my 2yo grabs that hammer :icon_eek: ).


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

Wasserpest said:


> (until my 2yo grabs that hammer :icon_eek: ).


Funny, that is actually my worst fear at the moment. My son (2) does seem to want to "fix" a lot of things with his little wooden hammer, which makes me kind of nervous 

It took me a little while today, but I checked out the plywood tank build that you had posted this morning (and I only looked at the pictures without reading). I can now understand why you are so "inspired" to build these tanks. That is a really nice setup (even if it was a reef ) 
I did wonder though what all this must have cost. I did get kind of dizzy just thinking about that. 

Anyway I don't have much experience with tempered glass, but my brother works for a automotive supplier that fabricates autoglass. I believe he has mentioned about working on a machine that tempers the glass. I'll ask him if he has any input here. 

Like most others here I am itching for you to start that tank build


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

Ok, I spoke with my brother today, and his opinion is that under no circumstances would you want to use tempered glass for your aquarium, mainly because it fails catastrophically. 
He did suggest using laminated glass which, even if it brakes, does not break apart. It holds together by an internal layer of plastic. Here is the wikipedia link.
I don't know how easy it would be to buy, but you could look into that.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Regloh said:


> Ok, I spoke with my brother today, and his opinion is that under no circumstances would you want to use tempered glass for your aquarium, mainly because it fails catastrophically.


That is only *IF* it fails. It is still about four times stronger than float glass, so the chances it will break are reduced. The "spontaneous breakage" is just something very unlucky. Broken glass is always a catastrophe when it comes to aquariums, and with the water pressure in a large tank chances are that even a crack in float glass will blow out the entire pane.

Keep in mind the fact that some common fish tanks like many 55gal tanks are built using tempered glass.

I'll keep reading...


----------



## kev82 (Feb 6, 2009)

Wasserpest said:


> I disagree with you a bit, I think there IS a change of pressure as tanks get wider. Imagine a tank that is only 1 inch wide, you could build that very tall with very thin glass. As you add more depth (not height), the pressure increases. Of course there is not much change going from say 28" depth to 32" depth. But I think there is some noticeable change when you go from 12" (typical 55gal) to say 24", and the calculators I have seen do not take that into account.


Nope. There's absolutely no change of pressure width wise.


Tempered glass is never recommended for any fistanks. Mainly because it cannot bend like normal glass can. Would you rather that your tank shatters or just bends if your bracing is off or someone bumps into it?
I've been reading a few plywood builds through the past and most people either use acrylic og just normal glass (non tempered). For bigger builds acrylic looks like the most popular by far.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Okay, regarding water pressure, I stand corrected. Just having trouble getting that into my small brain. :redface:

Not decided yet on the tempered vs non-tempered thing. If 1/2" non-tempered turns out to be safe for the 28" (26" exposed) height, I might go that way.

Acrylic is nice and clear, until my 2yo starts to slide those toy trucks up and down on it.  Plus it doesn't bond well with silicone (I think) and so there's another challenge to get it leak-free into the frame.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Your tank will be 30 inches deep, so the maximum pressure will be at the bottom, which is 30 inches of water. I think you have to size the glass based on 30 inches, not 26 inches, but I haven't thought this through completely either.


----------



## kev82 (Feb 6, 2009)

You can just put your numbers into a normal glass thickness calculator and use the thickness you get there. This is no different from an all glass tank, except there's just one side made out of glass.

http://www.thekrib.com/TankHardware/glass-thickness.html

30" is ~75cm tall, which means 10-15mm thick glass, depending on the length of the tank.


----------



## lumpyfunk (Dec 22, 2004)

Wasserpest said:


> Yep, 71 inches, how do you know??? :icon_eek:
> .


You made reference to it in your conclusions wrap up for your garage tank. I read all of your DIY threads very closely, there are lots of golden nuggets in there! 

Thanks by the way for putting them together so well, I consider them to be a valuable resource and really appreciate them!


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

kev82 said:


> You can just put your numbers into a normal glass thickness calculator and use the thickness you get there. This is no different from an all glass tank, except there's just one side made out of glass.
> 
> http://www.thekrib.com/TankHardware/glass-thickness.html
> 
> 30" is ~75cm tall, which means 10-15mm thick glass, depending on the length of the tank.


That would indicate that I should be okay with 1/2" glass, tempered or not.

I could be wrong, but I think with a plywood tank, the glass is supported on all 4 sides, and with the 1" overlap (or whatever one chooses) there is a bit more safety compared to a siliconed all glass tank, where only a thin seam is applied, on 3 sides, perhaps with an added brace.



lumpyfunk said:


> You made reference to it in your conclusions wrap up for your garage tank. I read all of your DIY threads very closely, there are lots of golden nuggets in there!
> 
> Thanks by the way for putting them together so well, I consider them to be a valuable resource and really appreciate them!


Thanks for reading my posts/threads. I hope to keep them entertaining. :smile: It is almost time to update that garage tank with a picture, things have been going extremely well there.

The other day I was looking for plywood tanks, and was blown away because my garage tank came up as #2 on Google. Lol.


----------



## Temuchin (Jun 9, 2008)

From a DIY channel on types of glass, jump to 4:00 and you will see why you should get beveled edges if you decide on tempered. Imagine if a sharp edge caught on something metal.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gDqiFRDPB4


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

The guy in that video applied a pretty hard set of whacks to the glass edge before it broke. If he did that to un-tempered glass it would crack immediately - I think.


----------



## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

That's pretty cool..


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

Wasserpest, Olaf Deters is nice to read  Get ready for a Finite Element Method calculation. Let me know if you figure it out, I gave up on that. 

Glass thickness specs based on DIN 32622

I never read up on plywood tanks. How will the glass be located in the tank, sitting on the bottom or will it be siliconed all the way around to the ply?


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I am going to hide the substrate in front. So the cutout in the plywood frame will be 2.5" from the bottom. The glass will overlap one inch, and sit on a 2x1 ledge (a 2x1 is actually 1.5" tall).

Jens - thanks for the link. :icon_roll



> Was sagen die gezeigten Bildchen und Texte nun aus? - Erstmal nicht viel, das ist richtig.


I think I agree with that one. :wink: 

I will just study a lot of other plywood builds and see what comparable tank sizes use in terms of glass thickness and whether tempered or not is better.


----------



## marrow (Feb 4, 2007)

Another plywood tank build with good pics that you may find useful.

http://www.minnfish.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12359&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=15


----------



## Cactus Bastard (Jun 5, 2007)

Temuchin said:


> From a DIY channel on types of glass, jump to 4:00 and you will see why you should get beveled edges if you decide on tempered. Imagine if a sharp edge caught on something metal.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9gDqiFRDPB4


Aaaargh! :icon_twis
"This video is not available in your country." 
Why do so many companies pull that crap on us?


----------



## Cactus Bastard (Jun 5, 2007)

Actually, I think I had something useful to add to this thread too, but I got distracted 

I will still comment on this:


Wasserpest said:


> I could be wrong, but I think with a plywood tank, the glass is supported on all 4 sides, and with the 1" overlap (or whatever one chooses) there is a bit more safety compared to a siliconed all glass tank, where only a thin seam is applied, on 3 sides, perhaps with an added brace.


I think regular, all glass tanks, are actually very well supported on three of their sides, and since there is not nearly as much stress at the top, a single brace is usually sufficient. Therefore, I don't think a plywood tank has any inherent advantages over a glass one. That 1" overlap isn't really that impressive, since the silicone does not bond terribly well to the fiberglass, while a "normal" tank would have had 1/2" of glass to glass, with an additional fillet of silicone that would bring it near 1" anyway.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Here is how I think I would do the glass/wood interface on a plywood tank:










The added stiffness with the steel angle should eliminate any need for cross bracing at the top, and would do a lot to stop the glass from bowing out. Of course I would also have a thin silicone layer between the wood and glass at the front too.


----------



## Cactus Bastard (Jun 5, 2007)

I think it's perfectly adequate, I just don't feel it's reasonable to claim that it's stronger than a regular glass aquarium. That's all.


----------



## Cactus Bastard (Jun 5, 2007)

(btw) I also agree that you should not need top bracing.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Cactus B - I think you are right. One can't assume that the plywood tank will be easier on the glass pane compared to a regular all glass tank. The silicone bond with the epoxy is not that strong, but it should not matter because water pressure pushes the viewing pane outside, compressing the silicone. As long as the frame is flat/square, it should be a good support.

Hoppy - thanks for the graphic, that's neat, and pretty much exactly how I did it for my garage tank (top) and planning to do for this next build. I might add a metal rod in the center anyway to prevent ANY flexing. Even if that doesn't break the glass, a center support would give me some peace of mind and additional layer of security.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I studied some more and decided that I will go with 1/2" non-tempered glass since there were more folks recommending to just use float glass over tempered.

In a different thread there was a good discussion about the automatic water change setup, so that one is pretty clear as well.

Did a first purchase for this future tank, a large canister filter (Unimax 700) which will work together with an XP3 to keep things clear and moving.

Another thing, not related to the glass - The epoxy that I will use is sorta graphite colored, together with the yellowish wood color it results in a gray tone. I'd like to stain or color the wood darker before adding the epoxy, but still not affect the bonding. Not sure how...

Also I am thinking about a good way to inject CO2 into this tank. I am currently using an external inline reactor on an XP3, which works okay. I am playing around with some small powerheads to see if there is way to turn them into some sort of mister, without the need for pressure differentials and high wattage like Mazzei Venturis and Needlewheels and such.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I used quite a bit of this dye: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=760 and it works very well to color wood, but not affect the surface of the wood, other than color. You might want to try it. It seems costly, but a little lasts a long time.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Thanks for the link Hoppy. Do you dissolve the powder in water? Apply it with a regular paintbrush? I think I want the dark green one... to get some muddy green/brown background for maximum depth perception.


----------



## Cactus Bastard (Jun 5, 2007)

Wasserpest said:


> I am playing around with some small powerheads to see if there is way to turn them into some sort of mister, without the need for pressure differentials and high wattage like Mazzei Venturis and Needlewheels and such.


FYI, needle wheels do not create large pressure differentials and are actually quite efficient at distributing CO2 (both from a dollar perspective, and electricity consumption). I don't think you should rule them out.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

From what I have read, folks are using rather beefy Iwaki pumps and such. But that is not to say that it will not work with smaller pumps as well.

I have played with many designs, and there is one that I want to research a bit further. Basically take a powerhead, close the outlet, and put a little cup or such around the inlet. Feed CO2 from the bottom, bubbles go up and are turned into mist by the impeller. Position this into the outflow of a canister filter, as long as the overall current in the tank is sufficient it should get distributed nicely.

It's just a thought. The external inline reactor I am using now works fine, but I wouldn't mind getting rid of it to simplify the plumbing of my canister filters.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Wasserpest said:


> Thanks for the link Hoppy. Do you dissolve the powder in water? Apply it with a regular paintbrush? I think I want the dark green one... to get some muddy green/brown background for maximum depth perception.


Yes, you dissolve them in water, or alcohol, as I recall. I mostly used water, because using alcohol allowed it to dry too fast to even out the color. Buying just 3 colors I felt I could get any natural wood color I wanted to achieve. I used a regular paint brush, the cheapest one I could find, and wiped it off after a minute or so to even out the color a bit. It does raise the wood grain a bit, so a bit of sanding after applying it and letting it dry, was useful. Better yet, dampen the wood with water, let it dry, then do final light sanding, and the grain raising is far less.


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

You could try a RFUG filter, with the canister out flow going through the RFUG, and an external reactor or needle wheel pump to add the CO2 to that flow. See: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/78505-rfug-blast-past-diy.html The only disadvantage I have seen is that you can't use a fertile substrate.


----------



## markksheets (Apr 25, 2011)

I was thinking of a plywood tank. I used to build boats. I see people building a plwood tank and covering it with fiberglass. This is half done, you would need gelcoat as well.

Epoxy resin Vs. Polyester? 
With no gelcoat a think epoxy is closer to water proof. But with a coat of gelcoat over your fiberglass, you have a mini fiberglass swimming pool.

Best practice, would to be to build a plug (opposite of the tank, Male part) then gelcoat and fiberglass over the plug. Seperate, and discard plug. Now you have a fiberglass tank, most ski boats are only 3/16 to a 1/4 inch thick as are most spas, so holding a 100 gallons of water shouldn't be a problem. Cut out whatever size for the glass. Skin with 1/4" cabinet grade plywood

MY QUESTION? Does anyone know about health issues for the inhabitants as far as epoxy, gelcoat, liquid rubber or any other option of sealing a plywood tank?


----------

