# How to submerse emersed and vice versa



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

So...I'm bursting with questions, and this is just one of them. How does one submerge emersed plants? How does one emerse submerged plants? I used one of those TC packs of downoi at Petsmart, and when I used the DSM, I was able to get it to grow into a rather lush carpet. How would I go about undoing this? It seems that everybody knows how to get emersed plants to start growing underwater, but I'm kind of confused about how to switch the process so that I can get downoi to grow out of the water. How would one do this for plants with their roots in the substrate (ex: Crypts), plants that have rhizomes (ex: Anubias and Java fern), and plants that just don't have rooting structures (ex: mosses)?


----------



## Sub1117 (Sep 21, 2014)

ichthyogeek said:


> So...I'm bursting with questions, and this is just one of them. How does one submerge emersed plants? How does one emerse submerged plants? I used one of those TC packs of downoi at Petsmart, and when I used the DSM, I was able to get it to grow into a rather lush carpet. How would I go about undoing this? It seems that everybody knows how to get emersed plants to start growing underwater, but I'm kind of confused about how to switch the process so that I can get downoi to grow out of the water. How would one do this for plants with their roots in the substrate (ex: Crypts), plants that have rhizomes (ex: Anubias and Java fern), and plants that just don't have rooting structures (ex: mosses)?


I'm assuming their roots are already established in the aquarium using DSM? If so, to my knowledge all you have to do is just flood the tank and they will convert on their own. The new growth should be in the submerged form.


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

Sorry, let me clarify: I have submersed plants, and was wondering how to grow them out of the water in air. The plants have already been submerged. The plants are now growing shoots and reproducing via roots. How do I take those shoots and new plants out of the water, and grow them in air?


----------



## Monster Fish (Mar 15, 2011)

ichthyogeek said:


> Sorry, let me clarify: I have submersed plants, and was wondering how to grow them out of the water in air. The plants have already been submerged. The plants are now growing shoots and reproducing via roots. How do I take those shoots and new plants out of the water, and grow them in air?


You can grow them emersed if you slowly convert them in high humidity. Take any of the plants you want to grow emersed, plant them in some dirt in a pot, then place them in sealable container (such as an aquarium with a glass lid or plastic wrap) with a light source. Keep the pots standing in some water and keep the humidity above 90% so that the leaves don't dry out. You can lay stems horizontally on the surface of the dirt and new emersed stems should start to grow from the nodes. After a few weeks, your plants should start producing emersed leaves if they are well fed, have enough light, and the humidity is kept high. Air stagnation can cause mold so be sure to open your container from time to time for some air exchange. You can also mist your plants to keep them humid.


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

The way to grow emersed plants when you are starting in submersed form is to basically plant them in soil horizontally (not vertically like land plants). Put the stem down on the soil horizontally and push it into the soil gently to keep it wet. Usually all the submersed form leaves will die from drying out as the plant converts and grows new emersed leaves, this is normal and trying to save them by misting is not necessary/helpful.

Be sure to keep the soil moist, but not damp.

For more details and pictures on how I set up emersed tubs cheaply have a look through this link: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...inners-guide-starting-your-first-emersed.html


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Grow them in air? Roots and all out in the air? Or do you mean emersed?
To get my plants to go emersed I just start lowering the water level. Just like in nature. Sometimes I just drop it right then and there in one shot.


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

Monster Fish: how do I know what the humidity is? 
Zapins: does this planting method include crypts? How do you grow Java Fern and Anubias?
GraphicGr8s: emersed

If I put the emersed plant container underneath a skylight, will the plant grow straight? I'm assuming that the plants won't permanently go one direction or another due to the sun constantly going from one direction to another throughout the day.

So do I dirt the container, and fill it up so that the water goes above the plants and then wait for the water level to go down over time? How do you deal with algae during this period?

What if I added a cup of yeast/sugar mix to the container to help boost CO2 levels? Or would the carbonic acid produced by water mixing with the carbon dioxide kill the plants?

Does temperature directly affect plant growth like it does bacterial growth? My house can go as low as 64 F in the winter to as high as 79 F in the summer. I'm more worried about the temperature going down to 64 during the day coming up this winter...

Finally, would I be able to culture live foods, like grindal worms and red worms in the containers?


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

Did you look through the explanation and pictures in that thread I posted above? It answered a lot of your questions, though I typed them out again below.



ichthyogeek said:


> Zapins: does this planting method include crypts? How do you grow Java Fern and Anubias?


Yes, you can grow any plant that can be grown emersed using this method, though with plants that aren't stem plants you'll probably want to do as Monster Fish mentioned and mist them until they grow new leaves. The misting won't save the submersed leaves forever, they will eventually dry out and die, but it will prolong the usefulness of the leaves and help the plant gather the energy it needs to make new emersed leaves.

Be aware that some plant species can take months to fully convert to emersed growth, it will not happen over night.



ichthyogeek said:


> If I put the emersed plant container underneath a skylight, will the plant grow straight? I'm assuming that the plants won't permanently go one direction or another due to the sun constantly going from one direction to another throughout the day.


A skylight will likely not be enough light for the plants unless you have an extraordinarily bright skylight. I'd put it in a location that gets direct light for 3-4 hours a day inside the house, or use an artificial fluorescent shop light. The more light the better really.



ichthyogeek said:


> So do I dirt the container, and fill it up so that the water goes above the plants and then wait for the water level to go down over time? How do you deal with algae during this period?


You fill the container with soil, and then place it in a container/tub/etc and fill the outer tub with water until it is 2 inches below the soil line. Do not raise the water level higher than it needs to be. If it is not 2 inches or more below the soil level your plants may rot.

Algae is not a problem when growing plants emersed. That is why you can blast the plants with lots of light and you don't have to worry.



ichthyogeek said:


> What if I added a cup of yeast/sugar mix to the container to help boost CO2 levels? Or would the carbonic acid produced by water mixing with the carbon dioxide kill the plants?


Do not add yeast to emersed setups. Yeast will foul the soil and water and cause issues. Also, CO2 concentrations in the air are pretty high compared with water so CO2 will not be an issue. Carbonic acid is good for plants it will not harm them.



ichthyogeek said:


> Does temperature directly affect plant growth like it does bacterial growth? My house can go as low as 64 F in the winter to as high as 79 F in the summer. I'm more worried about the temperature going down to 64 during the day coming up this winter...


Yes temperature directly affects plant growth. For every 10 degree C (not F) change in temperature metabolism will double or be halved depending on whether the temperature is raised or lowered. 64 F is fine for emersed plants though warmer is probably better.



ichthyogeek said:


> Finally, would I be able to culture live foods, like grindal worms and red worms in the containers?


Yes, you can culture things in the outer water container.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

I can only speak for what has worked for me. 
I don't mess with controlling humidity at all. Most of my plants are in terra cotta pots with top soil. Yuup. Plain old top soil from the big box stores.
I am constantly moving plants around. Well maybe not constantly but if I have a tank where fish are dropping fry I will grab a pot out of the emersed tanks and plop it into the tank. So far after about 4 years I haven't lost a plant because of it. I have lost some plants but not because of moving from tank to tank.
I keep the water level in the emersed right below the level of the dirt in the pot to keep algae down.
You could just drain an inch or so every day or two until you're emersed. I do do water changes on the emersed but not as often as the tanks with fish. In the tanks I do emersed with fish then the water is changed a bit more since there is no filter except for the plants.

I've got stems, crypts, swords growing both ways.



Zapins said:


> You fill the container with soil, and then place it in a container/tub/etc and fill the outer tub with water until it is 2 inches below the soil line. Do not raise the water level higher than it needs to be. If it is not 2 inches or more below the soil level your plants may rot.
> 
> Algae is not a problem when growing plants emersed. That is why you can blast the plants with lots of light and you don't have to worry.


I've found having the WL just below the top of the soil works best. I've not had a plant rot yet.

BTW since there is no water blocking light you can use less.


----------



## Monster Fish (Mar 15, 2011)

ichthyogeek said:


> Monster Fish: how do I know what the humidity is?
> 
> 
> If I put the emersed plant container underneath a skylight, will the plant grow straight? I'm assuming that the plants won't permanently go one direction or another due to the sun constantly going from one direction to another throughout the day.
> ...


Get a hygrometer. You can use the ones sold for amphibians. However, as long as sides of the container are wet with condensation, the humidity should be high enough.

Like Zapins said, it might not be enough light. Grab some lighting (fluorescent, LED, T5, etc).

I keep the water level a an inch below the surface of the soil and I use small 3-4" pots.

No need to use yeast. Atmospheric CO2 is good enough.

The plants should be fine at 64 degrees and above. Don't let the room temp drop too low though. Personally, I don't use heating for my emersed setups.

You wouldn't be able to unless you kept the soil on the drier side. Moist but not completely saturated. I'd raise them in a separate container since redworms prefer darkness instead of bright lighting. Grindals you could probably do but I'd use a non-planted container since it can be messy to harvest them when you have plants growing in their medium.


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

Zapins: oops! I'm reading through the entire thread a second time as I type this. Thank you for that by the way. I noticed in the thread, that you just drilled holes in the shoe boxes, then added dirt and water. Was there something that prevented the dirt from entering the water outside of the shoe boxes? For the yeast, I didn't mean add it into the water. I meant, could I add, say, a Gatorade bottle with a yeast solution, then add sugar on a daily/weekly/monthly basis to up CO2 as you said in the second page of the thread? 

Graphicgr8s: Thanks! So you're essentially making it so that there's water directly underneath the plants in your setup? Wouldn't that lead to shorter root structures since the plants have no need to grow roots deeper?

Monster Fish: Thank you! Really, the worms were an afterthought, something I _might_ harvest in my spare time, but with a sole purpose of helping to decompose large things like wood fragments, plant leaves, etc.


----------



## Monster Fish (Mar 15, 2011)

ichthyogeek said:


> Monster Fish: Thank you! Really, the worms were an afterthought, something I _might_ harvest in my spare time, but with a sole purpose of helping to decompose large things like wood fragments, plant leaves, etc.


The soil would be too wet for the worms. The wood fragments you can sift out of the dirt when it's dry. I like to heavily sift my soil because fragments of wood on the surface of the dirt can lead to fungus outbreaks. Just keep your worms in a worm bin for composting.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

ichthyogeek said:


> Graphicgr8s: Thanks! *So you're essentially making it so that there's water directly underneath the plants in your setup?* Wouldn't that lead to shorter root structures since the plants have no need to grow roots deeper?


Exactly. I generally have the roots coming out of the little hole in the bottom of the pot they grow so good. 

Every so often I do take them out of the pots and pot them up. Or divide them. then I just put some fresh dirt in. The old dirt I let dry out and it gets used next time around. In some cases I also take pea gravel and cap the dirt just to cut down on the mess when I put them back in the water. That part depends on my mood at the time and isn't critical at all to growth.

BTW I don't sift anything. As it comes out of the bag I put it in the pot.


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

Just a hypothetical question, but which would be preferred if one had just one stem left of a plant in the aquarium? Take it out and emerse grow it? Leave it floating in the tank? Or plant in the substrate of the aquarium to see if it roots?

Also, what soil brand products do you use? Miracle Gro? Something else besides Miracle Gro?


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

ichthyogeek said:


> Just a hypothetical question, but which would be preferred if one had just one stem left of a plant in the aquarium? Take it out and emerse grow it? Leave it floating in the tank? Or plant in the substrate of the aquarium to see if it roots?


I'd leave it in the tank. Make sure the conditions are good for growing plants (enough light, enough fertilizers). In good conditions plants will grow more leaves/stems/etc in the same amount of time than emersed plants do. Submersed plants don't need to spend the same amount of resources on structural strength to hold themselves upright, or grow huge root systems (submersed plants feed through leaves/stem), and submersed plants do not need to protect themselves vs. the air.



ichthyogeek said:


> Also, what soil brand products do you use? Miracle Gro? Something else besides Miracle Gro?


I'd stay away from miracle grow entirely for aquatic plants. It often releases a lot of ammonia which can damage plants. Any regular topsoil will do that has not been pumped full of artificial fertilizers and isn't made purely of organics (manure/compost) will work well.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Zapins said:


> I'd stay away from miracle grow entirely for aquatic plants. It often releases a lot of ammonia which can damage plants. Any regular topsoil will do that has not been pumped full of artificial fertilizers and isn't made purely of organics (manure/compost) will work well.


What? Plants use the ammonia. It's a quick source of nitrogen. Dogfish had his toxic 10 full of dog poop.


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

GraphicGr8s said:


> What? Plants use the ammonia. It's a quick source of nitrogen. Dogfish had his toxic 10 full of dog poop.





Plant Nutrition said:


> Fixed ammonium is resistant to removal from clay lattices and has little importance in plant nutrition.
> 
> ......
> 
> Exchangeable or dissolved ammonium is available to plants, but ammonium concentrations in soils are low, usually in a magnitude of a few mg/kg or kg/ha. In well aerated soils, ammonium is oxidized rapidly to nitrate by nitrification, so that nitrate is the major source of plant-available nitrogen in soil (108, 109). Nitrite, an intermediate in nitrification, is oxidized more rapidly than ammonium (109). Hence, a little ammonium or nitrite accumulates in most soils. Ammonium and nitrite are toxic to most plants (110). Toxicity of ammonium or nitrite might occur if the concentration of either rises above 50 mg/N/kg in soil or in other media, especially if either is the principal source of nitrogen for plant nutrition (110, 111). Nitrification is sensitive to soil acidity and is likely to be inhibited in soils under pH 5; this acidity may lead to ammonium accumulation (108).


*From*:Handbook of Plant Nutrition, by Allen V. Barker, David J. Pilbeam. 2007, page 35​
To answer your question. Most plants cannot handle ammonia/ammonium very well. The mechanism for exactly why ammonia/ium damages plants is not known at this point in time, but damage seems to be due to a plant's inability to prevent too much ammonium from coming into the plant.

In our CO2 injected high tech tanks we often reach pH 6 or sometimes lower which inhibits a lot of the ammonia detoxification processes as the book quote above mentioned. When this happens ammonia is not removed from the plant's environment in the normal way, it builds up to levels that are much higher than the plant can handle.

Furthermore, aquatic plants, unlike the terrestrial plants that the book was talking about, absorb nutrients from all surfaces, roots, stem, and leaves and do not have the same physical barriers that terrestrial (or emersed grown plants) have. They lack a wax cuticle which acts as a barrier to substances trying to get into the plant. This makes aquatic plants much more sensitive to toxins than terrestrial plants, and at the same time presumably more adept at taking up lower concentrations of nutrients (which are normal for aquatic environments). Basically, between 1 and 2 ppm ammonia is enough to start damaging certain species of aquatic plants within a few days of exposure (similar to fish toxicity ranges). Lower concentrations are probably also not very good for plants, though we probably don't see the symptoms of toxicity at low concentrations because they take longer to appear and are more subtle than at higher concentrations.

Miracle grow soil is pure organic material. There is no clay component in it to stabilize the ammonia and keep it from leaching into the water column, so high rates of ammonia release are common. Furthermore, in our low pH tanks nitrification does not easily happen, so once all the ammonia has been released and is floating around in the water column it is not removed and detoxified by bacteria like it is in the garden. Add on top of this, vulnerable plants (no wax cuticle) and you have several factors that can severely damage plants. These are some of the reasons that Miracle Grow is not very well suited for use in our tanks.


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

What about light? Can I expose the plants to a 24/7 light source to help increase growth? Or is there a point where the plant is exposed to light for too long? I'm thinking about lighting the plants with sunlight during the day, and at night, sticking them under a different light source. Will this be beneficial to the plants? Or will there be a point where photosynthesis just stops, and the plant is damaged? Can the light source be cheap, as long as it is rated for plants?


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Zapins, I am so glad my plants can't read. I've taken horse manure and dropped it in one tank. I use top soil all the time. I pretty much use whatever I have at the time. Plants did great. Again, I am so glad they can't read.



> Furthermore, in our low pH tanks nitrification does not easily happen,


pH in all of my tanks isn't what you'd consider low.


> Most plants cannot handle ammonia/ammonium very well


Master gardener Jerry Baker sprays ammonia (diluted of course) directly on plants as a quick source of nitrogen. I've dosed many of my planted tanks with it with no ill effects.

Remember too he is looking to go emersed so the foliage will be exposed to atmosphere with only the roots in soil and water. Disregarding that fact many here on the forum have done MGOPS with no problem in a flooded tank.


Ichthyogeek, plants need a dark time. The exact opposite will happen when lit 24/7.


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

GraphicGr8s said:


> Zapins, I am so glad my plants can't read. I've taken horse manure and dropped it in one tank. I use top soil all the time. I pretty much use whatever I have at the time. Plants did great. Again, I am so glad they can't read.


Perhaps I am reading your comment wrong, but your comment sounds rather snarky. 

I provided you with a piece of what I have read on ammonium toxicity. The information is from a trusted primary source, not a blog post. If you want to read through all the research articles that back up the author's points you can easily do that. Although, if you choose to believe "master" gardeners who provide no evidence to back up their good luck then you are welcomed to your opinion, I will not argue with that.



GraphicGr8s said:


> Master gardener Jerry Baker sprays ammonia (diluted of course) directly on plants as a quick source of nitrogen. I've dosed many of my planted tanks with it with no ill effects.


The dosage makes the poison. If these people are not dosing toxic amounts of ammonia on their plants then there will be no ill effects. As I mentioned, aquatic plants are more susceptible in submersed form than emersed form.



GraphicGr8s said:


> Remember too he is looking to go emersed so the foliage will be exposed to atmosphere with only the roots in soil and water. Disregarding that fact many here on the forum have done MGOPS with no problem in a flooded tank.


It is true that MGOPS will probably not harm emersed plants as much as submersed, though blanket statements that MGOPS is the bees knees in all situation is not good advice. There are many good reasons for not using it over another type of soil (mineralized, or clay based), including many threads where MGOPS has not worked out at all (ammonia burns, anaerobic rotting soil, etc). No one method is perfect, but some methods and materials are better than others.



GraphicGr8s said:


> Ichthyogeek, plants need a dark time. The exact opposite will happen when lit 24/7.


This is right. Many plants will not tolerate 24/7 light cycles. They need a period of darkness or they will be damaged and die. On the other hand some species of plants can tolerate 24/7 light. I do not suggest you use 24/7 lighting.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Zapins said:


> Perhaps I am reading your comment wrong, but your comment sounds rather snarky.
> 
> I provided you with a piece of what I have read on ammonium toxicity. The information is from a trusted primary source, not a blog post. If you want to read through all the research articles that back up the author's points you can easily do that. Although, if you choose to believe "master" gardeners who provide no evidence to back up their good luck then you are welcomed to your opinion, I will not argue with that.
> 
> ...


Yeah being a bit of a smart alek. It's in my blood. 

As for the potting mix, it's used here and on many other forums with high success rates. If you were talking about uncomposted organics I'd agree with you about ammonia burn. Might as well use dog urine. Where ever a dog pees it will, in many cases, cause a nitrogen burn. What we are using is COMPOSTED organics. There is a HUGE difference in toxicity.
My neighbor has horses and all the manure goes onto my manure pile. Now I can't use the green manure as it is high in ammonia. However after it is composted the stuff is black gold for leafy vegetables. I still can't use too much of it on fruiting plants because of the high nitrogen to carbon ratio but it won't even burn a seedling. 
Back to the potting mix. If it were to leach as much ammonia as you think it would burn the seedlings. If it did that Monsanto wouldn't sell a single bag.

As for believing "Master Gardeners". It's a bit more than just liking to garden:
To become a certified Florida Master Gardener, one is required to attend the prescribed hours of
instruction and pass an examination administered by the University of Florida/IFAS Cooperative
Extension Service. This certification is restrictive in nature and is valid only for one year and
when the individual is participating in the Florida Master Gardener Program. New certifications
will be issued each year only to those individuals who make a commitment for participation in
the coming year.


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

GraphicGr8s said:


> As for the potting mix, it's used here and on many other forums with high success rates. If you were talking about uncomposted organics I'd agree with you about ammonia burn. Might as well use dog urine. Where ever a dog pees it will, in many cases, cause a nitrogen burn. What we are using is COMPOSTED organics. There is a HUGE difference in toxicity.


Right, I agree that MGOPS can work for emersed and submersed aquatic plant growth. There are many examples of it working long term. Though just because it can work, does not mean it is the ideal type of soil for the job. There are also many examples of MGOPS causing high ammonia levels in submersed setups which damaged plants (particularly HC). In several other threads the soil becomes anaerobic and kills the roots and base of stem plants. While this does not always happen, it definitely does happen fairly frequently. Maybe 10-20% of the MGOPS threads I read about have some kind of issue that results from MGOPS not being the most suitable type of soil for the job for the reasons listed above.



GraphicGr8s said:


> My neighbor has horses and all the manure goes onto my manure pile. Now I can't use the green manure as it is high in ammonia. However after it is composted the stuff is black gold for leafy vegetables. I still can't use too much of it on fruiting plants because of the high nitrogen to carbon ratio but it won't even burn a seedling.
> 
> Back to the potting mix. If it were to leach as much ammonia as you think it would burn the seedlings. If it did that Monsanto wouldn't sell a single bag.


I agree that ammonia and rich soils can be very beneficial for vegetables, but vegetable crop plants tend to be more ammonia tolerant than other species, that is part of the reason they have been chosen as crop plants and have been cultivated for centuries. Also, they are generally not grown in water logged soils like out tanks where different processes are going on.

A more clay rich soil with lower levels of ammonia is much more ideal for aquatic purposes and supporting that conclusion, there have also been far fewer issues with ammonia burns/rotting with clay-based soil than pure organic soil.



GraphicGr8s said:


> As for believing "Master Gardeners". It's a bit more than just liking to garden:
> To become a certified Florida Master Gardener, one is required to attend the prescribed hours of
> instruction and pass an examination administered by the University of Florida/IFAS Cooperative
> Extension Service. This certification is restrictive in nature and is valid only for one year and
> ...


Interesting.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Zapins said:


> I agree that ammonia and rich soils can be very beneficial for vegetables, but vegetable crop plants tend to be more ammonia tolerant than other species, that is part of the reason they have been chosen as crop plants and have been cultivated for centuries. Also, they are generally not grown in water logged soils like out tanks where different processes are going on.
> 
> Right, I agree that MGOPS can work for emersed and submersed aquatic plant growth. There are many examples of it working long term. Though just because it can work, does not mean it is the ideal type of soil for the job. There are also many examples of MGOPS causing high ammonia levels in submersed setups which damaged plants (particularly HC). In several other threads the soil becomes anaerobic and kills the roots and base of stem plants. While this does not always happen, it definitely does happen fairly frequently. *Maybe 10-20% of the MGOPS threads I read about have some kind of issue* that results from MGOPS not being the most suitable type of soil for the job for the reasons listed above..


You may want to reread my post on the first part. I stated that fresh ammonia rich manure was too hot for plants. It will burn them. The ammonia/nitrogen to carbon ratio will vary depending on what you're growing. Leafy veggies will need a higher nitrogen level whereas a fruiting plant with a high nitrogen soil will leaf out yet produce very few fruit. You want more brown in the compost and less green.

Look at it this way. 80-90% of the time it works well. I'll take that any day of the week.

If you are looking for the "ideal" soil forget it. There is no such thing 100% of the time.

Any substrate go go anaerobic not just dirt. Any tank can go bad. Even mine. I've got a 55 dirted in the house that just won't keep fish anymore. Parameters, last time I had fish in it were spot on perfect. Fish die there. The plants however are doing well. The first 2 years the fish did fine. then "it" happened. What "it" is I have no idea. But I like the plants.

The n-p-k of MGOPC is pretty low


Fertilizer Analysis

0.10 - 0.05 - 0.05

Of well cured compost:
Average Home Made Compost
0.5 0.27 0.81


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

Zapins, I'm thinking of emulating Nomad's setup(page 11), and after looking at the link another time, notice that you have a 106 qt container? Was that a typo? Or is there really a 106 quart container? I've looked on Walmart's site, and have seen plenty of 16 quart containers, but not very many 106 quart containers...


----------



## Zapins (Jan 7, 2006)

His photo link appears to be broken, but he meant 105 qt container. I don't think there are any 106 qt containers out there.

Be sure to post pics of your setup when you finish it!


----------



## ichthyogeek (Jul 9, 2014)

Picture Update!









I plan on growing the following plants in this setup in anticipation of a few tank redos that need to happen before next fall: _Staurogyne repens, Echinodorus amazonicus/bleheri, Alternanthera reineckii, Cryptocyrne undulata, Microsorum pteropus, Hygrophila difformis, and Pogostemon helferi_. I'm undecided on the E. amazonicus or E. bleheri. I'm pretty sure that I dreamed this, but are bleheri really hard to keep? Also, most of these plants will be bought TC from Petsmart, so I shouldn't have a hard time with emersive growth, right? Finally, will all of these plants stay alive emersed?


----------

