# DIY LED build 125 gallon



## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Alright here is the beginning of my LED build for a 125 gallon tank. These are my current plans after reading repeatedly through other peoples builds. It is not complete as I’m a chemist not an electrician and I’ll outline my current stumbling points below:

Main LEDs: Vero 18s - 50/50 5600K and 2700K decor either 4 or 5 of each with quick connectors

Drivers: 4-5 LDD boards but I plan on getting the meanwell drivers from here since its seems significantly cheaper. Planning on 1000mA for the Veros. This isn't the overall cheaper option, but I like not having to solder a silly number of connections and it allows for easy changes.

Heatsink: Here as used in other builds, haven't picked a specific length yet

Power supply: This was suggested in other builds. Power supplies confuse me but more on that later.

Colored LEDs!: I do want to run some colored LEDs to help correct the Veros color. I'm confused on this part as well. I get that I need to run single colors in series on one channel. I personally like the higher K temps. I also really liked the GE 9325K 55w PC lights when those were a thing, they were kinda pink tho?

Controller: Arduino based iAqua with 6 PWM channels at 10mA. From my reading I should be able to control multiple LDD drivers on one PWM channel (i.e.: Veros). I would appreciate if someone could verify that sounds right. 

Okay my stumbling blocks: How do I figure out what the power supply can power? Obviously these won't be running at full power but I can't seem to determine how many veros + colored LEDs I can run. I'm open to suggestions for the colored channels. I'm just stuck on the PS and I don't want to start planning channels and LED lay out before I know what is feasible.

Advice/Suggestions appreciated!


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

Sounds like a good starting point. I would be inclined to throw in a cyan and one or two blue (regular blue, rather than royal blue) per pair of Veros.

From what I remember of those GE bulbs they weren't very pink, but a pretty crisp cool white sort of look, so adding the blues should get you a cooler look, and the cyan will fill out some missing range in output, as well as enhancing the look and counteracting some of the red cast of the warmer whites.

I can't dig out the datasheets right now but I'll take a bigger look later.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

9325K The Difference - Lighting - Aquatic Plant Central

OK found a spectrum and a side by side:








GE on the left.











> My main high tech tank uses just the 9325K bulbs and it looks like any normal tank, the pink is not noticeable and I would assume that is due to the dark substrate.











Read more: Do all bulbs with the 6500k rating make your tanks look green? - Page 2 - Tropical Fish Keeping - Aquarium fish care and resources

As to sizing power supplies..
LDD require a 3V differential so whatever the V(f) of the chip is at add 3v.
As to current.. simplest method is to just add the drivers up and increase it by 10%

Vero 18's V(f) is about 29V @1000mA (just rounding a bit)
1 driver per chip
say 10 @ 1A = 10A
All in series (individuals) so voltage needed is 29 +3 = 32V..

Common ps size is 36V 360W or greater..
Now the dilemma is do you use 1 or more power supplies..?
Using the above power assumptions and the fact you might want to add more "colors" you ps prices start to escalate for single units:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetai...Ps3th5F8koJlxMu8VzQFeoYURIwx9oQMjfteh0W43YA==
or 2 @ 9.7A
https://www.amazon.com/Mean-Switching-Power-Supply-NES-350-36/dp/B00V9J2IYW
POSSIBLY one depending on design.. Veros at the above specs are 29W each= 290W total power demand.
The 9.7 would be fine if one downgraded some drivers.. say 750mA for the warm whites (3.75A + 5A = 8.75A)
or less than 10 chips ect. but you should see the picture..

considering about 2500L/chip @1A going lower on the drivers is not that critical..25,000L over your tank is quite high really..
There are advantages to "under-driving" your chips..

On a side note, the GE has a real broad band blue/cyan phosphor and a heavy dose of narrow red.. Exact matching is a bit difficult w/ LEd's, mostly due to their lack in the very region of the GE strength.. blue/cyan region..
Lot of work though..


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED UV (410nm) [120°] x1
> LED RoyalBlue (450nm) [120°] x1
> ...











More in line w/ your plan


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED Blue (470nm) [120°] x5
> LED Cyan (490nm) [120°] x5
> ...


So for every 20W of Veros (20W each white) add 5W each of blue and cyan..
Better than the GE..











you can really "tweak" the above w/ 2W of 410 violet..All those pigment arrows go away.. Score goes to 100


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED UV (410nm) [120°] x2
> LED Blue (470nm) [120°] x5
> ...


all just estimates of course..
SPECTRA

sooooooooooo 3 3w blues and 3 3W cyan per 29W pair of Vero's..Optional 1 3W violet per pair.

Each color controlled separately. Tweak to suit..
to fit the parameters w/ a tad lowering of K and CRI..
2 3w blues and 2 3w cyans per Vero pair..(one 3W violet)
Saves drivers since now all blues and cyans can each only need one driver each color..
6v x 5 = 30V.. 10 in series.. assuming you find close to 3V blues..
since 15 in series 9V per pair 5 pr of Veros =45V

total drivers 13

CORRECTION.. somethings not "perfect" w/ the diode (3 blue 3 cyan) count so I just went and made it simple..
Below is 29W Vero's 6W of blue 6w of cyan,, 3W of blue. not sure why I didn't do that in the first place..Long day. 
since the Vero estimates are dominant it doesn't change much to do minor goof ups..  

By just dimming the warm whites you can go from 600k to 12000k (ww off).. tone goes from pink to magenta to blue..



> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED UV (410nm) [120°] x3
> LED Blue (470nm) [120°] x6
> ...


ONE FINAL note.. the "cool white" I used are cooler than 5600K throws it off a bit but basics are sound..
6170 to 5810 estimate shift w/ all diodes on full.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

if it were me I wouldn't have so many 2700k Veros, you won't be using them more than 10-20% on at any one point. if it were me I would just have your 4-5 Vero 18 5600k 90CRI COBS. and around each COB place 2 Cyan 2 Warm Whites and 2 Deep Reds. and you should be set. should give you enough warmth to sunrise/sunset. and lets you get away with 1 driver for that channel. you could prolly safely tie in the deep reds into your vero channels. since you want them on anyway whenever your veros are going. just leaving 3 channels to deal with. WW Cyan for color correction and your main VEROs + Deep Red.

Cyan + a bit of your veros could act as your moon light if you are running moonlights.

This would yield a color temp around 5500k with everything full on. 

If you want to give yourself the ability for a cooler look maybe add a channel of 460nm blues, should give you a range of 2700k with just Warm White on to 9000k or so with everything but the Warm White on.

Channel 1 (MAIN White) VERO 18 + 2x Deep Red
Channel 2 (Warm White) 2xWarm White
Channel 3 (Blue) 2x 460nm Blue
Channel 4 (Cyan) 2x Cyan

another cob you may want to look into though is the "fresh fish" cob by phillips lumiled. a bit more than a vero but its 6500k and has enough cyan to warrant not needing that. has a CRI of 95. i'd then just swap in the fresh fish COB for the vero and get rid of channel 4. 

just some random thoughts...


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikaila31 said:


> Drivers: 4-5 LDD boards but I plan on getting the meanwell drivers from here since its seems significantly cheaper. Planning on 1000mA for the Veros. This isn't the overall cheaper option, but I like not having to solder a silly number of connections and it allows for easy changes.
> 
> 
> > Steve's has an 8up board LDD Driver Array - 8X Drivers
> ...


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Steve's has an 8up board LDD Driver Array - 8X Drivers
> 
> Allied has a great price break if you need 10 or more LDD. https://www.alliedelec.com/mean-well-usa-ldd-1000h/70345763/



So cool, I didn't know these existed.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Got to admit I do love the "fresh fish" COB................Paired w/ a warm white it's pretty much all one needs..but what fun is that..

Oh on a side note, You probably only need around 250W of LED's for that tank..

One suggestion that still stands.. Don't run the COBs at 1000mA

FYI: For single emitters..StevesLED has them on sale ATM..$2 each, about the same w/w as the fresh fish COB's
Luxeon sun plus seems to be the hort. version of "fresh fish"..


















One NOTE of caution.. both the fresh fish and hort version have a native wider optical angle of over 120 degrees..


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

^ That is interesting.

Looks to have damn near identical spectral output. I would bet it is the same or similar phosphor. I never really looked into the sunplus cool white, but I may grab a few next time I order from StevesLED. Might be worth replacing the 5600K Vero on my nano with a couple of them, easier driver requirements too. Maybe remove the cyan and replace with a deep red and/or far red. It currently runs 1x Vero 5600k, 1x 4000k Luxeon, 1x Cyan, 1x 460nm blue, and 1x 420nm Violet, and it rocks, but is a tad yellowish.


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## skanderson (Jul 25, 2010)

I agree that 10 vero 18s is a ton of light over a 125. running them at 700mA or 500 mA would probably be sufficient.


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

jeffkrol said:


> CORRECTION.. somethings not "perfect" w/ the diode (3 blue 3 cyan) count so I just went and made it simple..
> Below is 29W Vero's 6W of blue 6w of cyan,, 3W of blue. not sure why I didn't do that in the first place..Long day.
> since the Vero estimates are dominant it doesn't change much to do minor goof ups..
> 
> ...


Thanks a lot! I'm with you now on not running the veros at 1000mA. I want to stick to one 36V PS which should be doable even if I need to reduce the number of veros. The color channels I'm still wrapping my head around. I keep coming back here at the end of really long days, but I have all day Sunday to work on this. I plan to have everything squared away and ordered around thanksgiving. I got a laugh out of you linking a bunch of old pictures of mine!(wish my tanks still looked like that) I don't need to match the GE completely but the point being I like higher color temp. Usually prefer above 6500K, 7500K+ usually with PC/T5 at least.

@Maryland Guppy - thanks a lot for the links! I will be going with 2X that 8up driver board. 

So the best bet sounds like fewer veros, maybe 8? I would rather not have to mount them too high off the water so I am a bit concerned about spotlighting. The tank I have is a older oceanic and has a heavy 1/2" glass brace thats 20" long. I plan to use glass lids as well, but I'm not sure if I should ignore that or expect to use a little more power from the LEDs. Here is the overall build thread for this tank.

I am curious about the fresh fish LED. It looks to be a 3W LED, how many would be needed to be equivalent to a vero? I'm not firm on veros, but if its significantly more work and cost for the fresh fish I would prefer to stick to the veros. They look nice, but its also looks to be a lot more soldering and mounting with maybe being less likely to have issues with spotlighting.

Would anyone recommend tapping the heatsink vs thermal epoxy?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

"fresh fish" COB is 41.76W @ test current..
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lumileds/L2C5-FS001211E1900/1416-1951-ND/6176081
Smaller one currently not available here
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/lumileds/L2C5-FS001208E1500/1416-1950-ND/6176080
These are (ones I bought):
https://www.mouser.com/Search/Produ...rtualkey58270000virtualkey997-L2C5FS001208E15

The horticulture ones, which look to be fairly identical if not the same are 3W.

since you plan on control, how many you use is a bit arbitrary..mostly determined by cost..

To tap or not just depends on how masochistic you are.. I'm not the only one who has had problems trying to drill and tap these small holes in aluminum..
"My" best success was w/ spiral fluted coated taps..
http://www.ymwtapsusa.com/download/newsletters/Understanding-the-basics-of-spiral-fluted-taps.pdf 

and to go against conventional wisdom which is smaller than usual drill size for aluminum..
Maybe just me but found it to be bs..Broke 3 taps by listening to it.
Then again I used smaller than 4-40 screws..

Eventually switched to a heatsink plaster type compound and just glued them down.. 
This stuff..so far no issues:









Ignore the tank "tone" for now but notice the 3 chips and their designation:
The extreme "white" one is the fresh fish COB
EVERY chip is higher than 90CRI...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

They don't like multiple in-line posts but mine do get a bit messy..

Anyways why do you want the warm white chips, considering your color preference? 
Technically they are used for red boost, which you can accomplish in a different manner 
or aesthetically for a warmer tone, sunrise effects or better CRI..

Except for sunrise/sunset effects the Fresh fish really covers all the bases for you.
you can't dim 6500k or greater LEds to look like sunrise.. and you can't just add red either. Just looks white/pink not glowing yellowish.

The Vero 5500K high CRI chips should be very similar.. but not 6500K.. 

BTW: Vero Decor bxrc-57 (either G or H) ect.. aren't easy to find..
G=90+ CRI H=97CRI

There is another "set" of COB's I suppose I could mention:
Luminous Devices "Studio"..
http://www.luminus.com/products/Luminus_Xnova_Studio_Datasheet.pdf

Can't go wrong w/ any of them really..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Mix of warm and cool I was under the assumption was for a better overall spectrum for PAR? At this point I am getting more confused than when I started this thread. I kinda leaning on sticking with veros because I guess its the one LED I understand right now lol... Sorry but looking at these other LEDs you have linked I really don't understand how they effect the system overall, drivers, power, how many I need, what they are lacking, ect. The GE bulb had a really high amount of red for being as high color temp as it supposedly was, so I'm not sure... at worst it sounds like I can make a sunrise???


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Most of the confusion you have is based on the fact the LED "tech" is changing.
A few years (months) ago getting decent red output w/ high K LEd's was near impossible w/out adding it via red diodes or high red warm whites.
Hort, at the time, due to costs, needed to minimize it while maximizing spectrum. Thus the red/blue lights.
As the industry was forced to improve CRI (and even how it was measured) things started changing..
They had to add cyan/red/ and even blues to correct "daylight" LED's weaknesses (poor color rendering in areas of the spectrum).

There is nothing wrong w/ your orig plan.. they are just different.



> The GE bulb had a really high amount of red for being as high color temp as it supposedly was


My opinion of the GE the special component was more the broad spectrum blue/cyan phosphor.. and red..

NOTE though.. and as best I can assume...T8 variant..
or this:
http://consumer.gelighting.com/catalog/p/45851


> Nominal Initial Lumen per Watt
> 45 Initial
> 
> Lumens-nominal
> ...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

"Fresh fish" COB probably requires a 48V ps.. 34.8V @ 900mA 
Add 2-3V for the LDD differential.. 37.8

Some Meanwells are voltage adj in that range. A few volts around it's rated voltage.

difference between using veros and fresh fish is about $33.60/10 chips..

8" above the water line you can run 10 in a row............

30,000 lumens.. 300 some watts..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Okay after some reading and hunting I think I will stick with the veros. The Fresh fish has the added issues of more $ per LED, 48V PS is more $, and the optics being wider than 120 degrees. I'm leaning toward running fewer of the 2700K veros and also add some red LEDs. Below is what I panned out it stays at 100 even if you completely remove the warm white.



> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED UV (400nm) [120°] x3
> LED Blue (470nm) [120°] x6
> ...


That would give me 6 channels and I could fully ramp and dim them with the iAqua software.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Oddly the chip I quoted lists 117 degrees.. 
I swear orig it was 130 something..but your right it's more costly w/ the fresh fish..

to give you a bit of confidence.. "Like" array (but w/ small emitters). more similarities than differences..
not my tank but the light is "my baby" ..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

It still does not seem worth it to me. The fresh fish would need to be driven at the same 500mA as the veros from what I am reading. Having a 48v PS with enough amps seems hard to find for a decent price. 

So sticking with the meanwell LRS-350-36 and the veros seems easiest and more budget friendly. I'm curious on opinions for having 4 56k Vero 18s @ 500mA and 3-4 27k Vero 13 @ 350mA along with similar color channels I listed previously. 

I don't personally care very much about high CRI and neither do the plants. The lights I prefer tend to have pretty low CRI.


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

If you have a good mix of emitters figured out you can get good results with lower CRI arrays, the aspect of higher CRI that is nice is you may pay more but ultimately need less emitters, good for applications with specific space requirements, or when you want less emitters for logistical purposes.

High CRI is nice but you can get equally good results arguably with custom arrangements. Especially if going for a certain look. 

I'm a big fan of high CRI chips but also keep budget requirements in mind. Especially when you look at stuff like the 90 CRI Vero 10 at only $3.73 each, versus double the cost for other options that offer 95+. The 5600k 90CRI Vero is an excellent value and does render very nice color, add some blubwarmere/green and warmer supplement and its a very good start.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikaila31 said:


> It still does not seem worth it to me. The fresh fish would need to be driven at the same 500mA as the veros from what I am reading. Having a 48v PS with enough amps seems hard to find for a decent price.
> 
> So sticking with the meanwell LRS-350-36 and the veros seems easiest and more budget friendly. I'm curious on opinions for having 4 56k Vero 18s @ 500mA and 3-4 27k Vero 13 @ 350mA along with similar color channels I listed previously.


Works but see below..


Mikaila31 said:


> I don't personally care very much about high CRI and neither do the plants. The lights I prefer tend to have pretty low CRI.


your current plan is a somewhat predicated on a effective higher CRI (cw/ww combo)

If you want a more GE centric light then all one high K Veros and cheap ww small emitters for effects..
Adding 660NM red diodes in abundance and some blue/royal blue is a better option..

finnex planted plus is 7000K and 660nm red w/ a touch of blue..
It's more on the line of what you may be shooting for.. 

See the main point was concentrating on as high of K white as you can get in as high of quantity.. Easy and cheaper to fill w/ colors..
Fresh fish wasn't strictly high CRI but it was a bonus..MAIN purpose was to get you 6500k w/ out the "yellow" as is common in low CRI high K whites..

My "fear" is you wasting the watts on warm Veros which you most likely will run in a very low output..
A 2CW:1WW is minumum and seeing your preferences more like 3:1

If you want sunrise/sunset warmth just throw in a ww channel of cheap 3W bridgelux stars..


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED Blue (480nm) [120°] x9
> LED DeepRed (640nm) [120°] x9
> ...


ABOVE is in watts.. X 6-8 groups
F1BFFF
Hex color gives you the dominant "tone"..

I've been "pushing" you to the FF because of your preference not in spite of it..
Maybe you saw this thread:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...25g-finished-success-includes-par-data-7.html









costing out and skipping ps.
say 8 ff @ $18
27 cheap Bridgelux blues.. like $15 on eek
Same w/ the 660nm 
$144 plus $60 plus a few bucks for "sunrise" diodes..


> 3W 80lm 650-660nm High Power Red 3Watt LED Light Emitter diodes 10PCS $2..............


so say $20 for all "ancillary" diodes.. 

i'll just go ahead and say it.. For what I "perceive" as your preferences the WW Veros are a waste of money....


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

jeffkrol said:


> I've been "pushing" you to the FF because of your preference not in spite of it..
> Maybe you saw this thread:
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...25g-finished-success-includes-par-data-7.html
> 
> ...


I've previously read that thread you linked through extensively along with all the other 6' LED builds I could find.

The lower part I quoted because I'm not following what you mean as far as which diodes you are referring to.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikaila31 said:


> I've previously read that thread you linked through extensively along with all the other 6' LED builds I could find.
> 
> The lower part I quoted because I'm not following what you mean as far as which diodes you are referring to.


Any 3W emitters clustered around the Vero's (or whatever) are dirt cheap (note don't expect output efficiency or, in some cases, longevity)) ..
ANY color but white using the cheap Bridgelux 3W stars.... 

point was for $1 or 2 you just wrap the COB's in 18-21W of cheap colors..
6 3W ( 3 of each "color" Red/blue) or add a few 3W warm whites as well..

Obviously you can spend considerably more w/ better diodes..
as to ps .. don't need to settle w/ one..
https://www.amazon.com/GENSSI-Regul...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=44NGTHGD1X0WTFW6978B

Bridgelux style "egg" emitters 1 or 3W..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Can you use an adjustable PS with LEDs? 
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjusta...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T4A41XZ2W70Y47K3KNA9

Also is running the Fresh fish at 500mA enough?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mikaila31 said:


> Can you use an adjustable PS with LEDs?
> https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjusta...coding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=T4A41XZ2W70Y47K3KNA9
> 
> Also is running the Fresh fish at 500mA enough?


Drivers like the Meanwell LDD's need a stable fixed voltage power supply.
They regulate the amperage out by "bucking" the voltage.. i.e if a diode needs 3.6 volts to draw 500mA and the ps is 12 volts the driver will "cut' voltage out to 3.6V..allowing th LED to only use 500mA
Looking at that ps sure.. doesn't make any difference as long as it's set for 3V over what the LDD-LED needs..
It's simpler than it sounds.. 

As to 500mA 'enough'? W = v x a so at 500mA voltage is roughly 33.3V =16.6W 118L/ w = 1959L/ chip....
750mA.. 34.5V = 25.88W = 3053L/ chip

There are factors that change the above numbers slightly, like increase efficiency at lower currents. Decrease in efficiency w/ hotter chip temps but the above is fairly accurate..
holds for all LEd's really..just worse/better for some..

That chip is pretty linear in it's range, surprisingly a bit.

10 fresh fish driven at .750mA and 34.5V is only 258.8W.. 
That power supply is 480W capable.. Room to spare for the colors..
sometimes one needs to throw out rules of thumb.. like the "add the LDD's up" and instead use real numbers. 
I do have a tendency to over Amp my ps's ..but they are usually more efficient in the 2/3's output range
your call .. based on # of chips and preferred drive current..

Personally, I'd just go w/ the 700mA LDD-h's..
2700-ish L /chip 
20,000 vs 27,000 vs 30,000 total lumens for 10 chips..

Believe you can get away w/ less than 10..
w/ dimming you can always decrease light but max output is set.........
Gets to be a matter of how good you feel about heat and costs..

$130 72" Beamswork .. more than adequate but would double it for a wide tank specs at 8000 Lumens (16,000 @ 2)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFF07EC/ref=twister_B01LFF08QO?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

you want to beat out a cheap light right?? 

BTW: Note the color of the f-spec:
RGB 10000k white
24/7 is rgb 7000k


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Ok. was thinking. .don't like to skimp on 660's.. 
fortunately some of the best are on sale.. 
Luxeon SunPlus Far Red 3W
Figure about 2 (probably should be 3 but hard to judge peoples acuity to this deep of red.) every one cool white COB..
So $40 max..

Rally all you need .. Rest would be "effects"
Should be crisp white light, full spectrum w/ a hint of pink..
At 2.3V @ 700mA.. =46V soo close to one string..but could remove 2 (one from each end chip..so 41.4V, set ps at 46.)

About the overall color
FFE8FC
http://www.color-hex.com/color/ffe8fc


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Why 10 main diodes? That seems excessive? Previously it was 8 and I was considering 8 or less veros. 



> point was for $1 or 2 you just wrap the COB's in 18-21W of cheap colors..
> 6 3W ( 3 of each "color" Red/blue) or add a few 3W warm whites as well../
> 
> 
> > Where are you finding 3w this cheap? I search and could not find any 3w bridgelux LEDs. And by my following you are saying 6-7 3 watt LEDs per COB. Which puts it at a total of 56-64 LEDs?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> either 4 or 5 of each


so 8 or 10....................

Consider 200-240W minimum for a high tech and/or large tank..By old standards and a lot of guessing you get 4W/gallon equiv..
As LED's get more efficient this guessitmate would need revising..


single row (planned) chips need to be higher than most "set on top" lights so you get a longer distance you need to throw..and wider..
Pucks, where the light is concentrated in a small area is even more problematic w/ even coverage.. until you get deeper in the tank (self leveling so to speak).
not trying to spend your $'s frivolously.. and from the above statement you did set the ground rules..

No 2-3W chips per COB..
to (rough) scale each square is 1" Ignore the blue/green for now









throw out the 2 end reds to keep the string to one driver and ps specs..
6W deep red to 27 W 6500k white..
18 QUALITY reds is $36 plus shipping from Steves..
horticulture specific 660nm red..
Anyways another 6500K chip but requires larger hard to find or way more expensive drivers..
Same voltage as the fresh fish but could double the current.. for a price..
https://www.rapidled.com/cree-cxb3590-6500k-70-cri/

I'm technically a cheap SOB so every "expensive" item I mentioned is for a reason..
Wheter it matches yours, or even reality in some cases is a judgement call..

I realize costs seem to escalate but $300 (roughly) for high tech quality light for a 120gal tank is pretty cheap..
If you went "full bore" w/ say Radion xr15FW for that tank a min. would be considered 3 so $900 (95W each)
Smaller sibling w/ AI's is $600.........
2 Beamsworks are $260....

8COBs and 14 660's should work fine..
$172 for the diodes..

another shopping list:









COB's and reds $125.16..
$300 just for controller and heat sink..

3Ai's 55W each ' $600
http://www.aquacave.com/aquaillumination-ai-prime-freshwater-black-hd-led-fixture.html

So scale it back w/ a target wattage of 200W..
[email protected] 100W 5000k led floods will work as well
http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/o...MIh7yS-LnS1wIVCYZpCh2WrgIpEAkYByABEgLhNfD_BwE
$180....


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

I just found this thread and I'm like cool, another 6' light for a 125g. Then as I scroll through I just noticed my pics and shopping list! LOL 

I'll say this, 1A on those vero's is probably a bit much for a low tech tank, I'm currently pulling about 50w on my whole setup. I really do like the o2surplus board to control my power to my boards (read they are current adjustable). I think I'm still set to run 1A through them, but I instead adjusted my lights with my StormX controller. Now if I had my own PAR meter, I would of adjusted the lights via the current on the O2Surplus board. 

If I was to redo my setup, I would possibly not go with the Vero 18's (4 across 6' tank w/one towards the front and one towards the back) but maybe a few more 13's (6 across) or 10's (maybe 8 across) to get a better light spread. So that way I could have a few more LED's to spread across the tank vs my current 4 spots (front and back), so that way I had LED's on the very end of the tank for the plants there. Which would reduce shadowing from fewer light sources.

Currently they are set for:
5.6k running @ 19.6%
2.7K running @ 9.3%


If you didn't want to deal with the color LED's too, I would just get the 5.6K Vero's and call it a day, but l couldn't resist doing that myself. HAHAHA

From DigiKey
Vero 10 lumen output performance ranges from 275 to as much as 2,420 lumens
Vero 13 lumen output performance ranges from 500 to as much as 4,400 lumens
Vero 18 lumen output performance ranges from 950 to as much as 8,200 lumens

If going with C02 maybe not go with the 10's, but the 13's, as the 18's are just stupid bright if maxed out with 1A of full current going through them. If going with no C02, probably would do the 10's. However I would be curious to hear from someone that has tried any of these Vero's besides just the 18's.

(hope this makes sense, I'm working and doing a few other things while some youtube videos are also playing LOL)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

50W only huh.. There's that many in the front bar of this 3 row fixture.. 









but I can see it...I have 150 "theoretical" watts over my 55.......but really not running them NEAR that limit.. like you..

have no problem admitting I over-build... 
I 'believe" 5600 k (and cert. high CRI) are only available in 18 and 29.........

huh, If you want 100 and willing to wait...
https://www.digikey.com/products/en...t=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

like you noticed. geometry is tricky w/ pucks.........


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> 50W only huh.. There's that many in the front bar of this 3 row fixture..
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Didn't really look for the higher K versions, but I found the following in stock. Granted I haven't researched these more, I just recall seeing these when I first built my setup. 
Vero 13 Bridgelux BXRC-50G2000-C-24 - 90 CRI
Vero 10 Bridgelux BXRC-50G1000-B-24 - 90 CRI


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

chayos00 said:


> Didn't really look for the higher K versions, but I found the following in stock. Granted I haven't researched these more, I just recall seeing these when I first built my setup.
> Vero 13 Bridgelux BXRC-50G2000-C-24 - 90 CRI
> Vero 10 Bridgelux BXRC-50G1000-B-24 - 90 CRI


Thanks.. Soooo many models.. 
Unf.ortunately at 5000K (and even high CRI) for the o/p I'd e a tad hesitant to suggest them though plenty cheap enough and w/ enough ancillary colors it should work..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Okay so lets say 9 Fresh fish? Nice in between and that makes an even 2 reds for each. 



> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> LED UV (410nm) [120°] x3
> LED Blue (470nm) [120°] x3
> ...


does the 660 red LEDs having a ~160 degree angle have any negative affect? Also is there much light thrown out past the tank with the 120 native optics of the other LEDs or is that all determined by mounting height?

If I want sunrise/sunset affect would I need to add some warm whites or something like amber? I may still have to go with 2 separate PS if Amps again seems to be an issue -_-. I'm not sure if I'm over doing it. Especially as Chayos mentioned the 9 COBs won't be anywhere near their max draw. 

Quick question on the LDD, if I want to drive 9 x3W @700mA say 3.2Vf. I can simply just do that and the LDD deals with the remaining voltage, its just less efficient power wise?

Here is the outline so far omitting the arduino controller, somewhere around $100.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

THATS where I saw those large beam angles.. My bad.. switch to the other Luxeon deep reds..$2.25 each.
No need to complicate optics.
Consider 500mA drivers for the red's. Same w/ the UV. What band?
Suggest sticking w/ violet in the 410-420 range. Violet is just really deep blue.. 
Also suggest skipping any colors to the outside of the white..So you can decrease #'s by 2
i.e w/ 9 white each but the ends get 2, end chips get 1 7x2 plus 2x1 = 16 reds

Purpose of the high CRI whites is to fill the blue/cyan range better so blue is somewhat unnecessary..

Yes if you want a 3000k (pick one less than 3500k) sunrise effect..you need 3000K diodes..

As to efficiency.. not really an issue. I can run 8V strings on 56V power supplies and the LDd's don't even get warm..Most inefficiency is measured by heat. 

Think I'm leaning to 8...and just raise it a bit higher.

Each puck needs to be responsible for a 14x14" area..216 sq inches..
Seems doable w/ that wattage available..

http://www.qualiteitems.com/images/new72b.JPG

should cut emitter cost down to below $200
Tablet run bluefish mini $100
ps $34
ect..

Heatsinks are annoyingly expensive..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Okay Switching the reds. Again I'm curious if the 120 degree optics are going to lead to a lot of light being thrown out past the aquarium? I see issue with this in some peoples build but not others and can't really determine what works best. 

500mA drivers is fine by me.

The UV I picked was 400-410. Is 410-420 better?

Makes sense to skip the outside colors.

Will add some warm whites. 2x3W?

I am interested in mounting height. I would like it lower than higher but not sure how big a difference that is. What height off the top(trim) of the tank is it expected to be? Trying to design a hood/canopy that isn't excessively tall.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Mikaila31 said:


> Okay Switching the reds. Again I'm curious if the 120 degree optics are going to lead to a lot of light being thrown out past the aquarium? I see issue with this in some peoples build but not others and can't really determine what works best.
> 
> 500mA drivers is fine by me.
> 
> ...


As far as the UV, as I didn't know what to pick, that's why I went with the 400-410, 410-420, & 420-430. Covered all aspects in question. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

chayos00 said:


> As far as the UV, as I didn't know what to pick, that's why I went with the 400-410, 410-420, & 420-430. Covered all aspects in question.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


LOL! Now I'm leaning towards this one - Hyper Violet V3.0

What I was originally looking at - https://www.rapidled.com/semileds-true-violet-uv-led-400-410nm/

Chayos00 - Did you have any issues with the LEDs casting light beyond the tank?

I am looking to start ordering some things soon - might as well make use of those Black Friday sales...


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

I feel like I'm finally getting somewhere! Thermal adhesive is curing on the LEDs and I think I have everything needed to fully assemble this thing.

One question... is 26 AWG wire okay? Ampacity says 1 amp and i'm under that but not sure if its of concern at this voltage. I have a mess of wires mostly 26 AWG I was hoping to use. 

Edit: Also want to add for anyone using the thermal adhesive from StevesLEDS I ordered 4 'units' ~1mL each. I did all the LEDs (61) and used almost HALF(2ml) of that and still felt I wasn't being light with it. So it goes a lot farther than expected.


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

Thats a big heatsink!


Looking good so far.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Mikaila31 said:


> One question... is 26 AWG wire okay? Ampacity says 1 amp and i'm under that but not sure if its of concern at this voltage. I have a mess of wires mostly 26 AWG I was hoping to use.


I've used older printer cables that contained 24 & 26 AWG @ up to 700mA with no heat or wiring issues. All dimmed with PWM.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Personally don't like to go below 24Ga for anything ..
22ga is my personal minimum for longish power runs..

wire is pretty cheap
2Pin 18 20 22 24 26AWG Black Red Cable Extension Wire Cord 3528 5050 5630 LED US
24ga zp cord 20m (x2) is 7.95 inc. shipping
22ga is 9.65.

Many use cat5/6 for interconnects between diodes and power. Don't recommend it for return runs of any length but like I said, done all the time..

Most wire specs you see are quite conservative,,but longer the run and smaller the wire th more resistance, voltage loss and heat..

fun w/ wires..

Model Railroad Wire Ampacity
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1863827
http://ledgardener.com/choosing-wire-for-your-led-cob-system/
Note: since you will be dealing w/ constant current the driver will make up any voltage losses..but heat is still there
Note 2: Cheap wire above is only rated at 80C (176F).. bit low but if upsized a bit heating isn't a factor, there is the heatsink heat to consider though.

high temp 20ga 25ft $4.80
Good to 125C (257F). 
AUTOMOTIVE WIRE 20 AWG HIGH TEMP TXL WIRE BLUE W/ VIOLET STRIPE 25 FT COIL

AUTOMOTIVE WIRE 22 AWG HIGH TEMP TXL WIRE 9 COLORS SOLID 25 FT COIL
$16.99 25ft x 9 22ga high temp


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> Personally don't like to go below 24Ga for anything ..
> 22ga is my personal minimum for longish power runs..
> 
> wire is pretty cheap
> ...


I second the larger gauge size as well. But also knowing that you get more of a voltage drop over a longer run with a smaller gauge wire vs a larger gauge size that's why I personally went with a larger wire 20awg. But I also over do things as well. LOL

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Okay ordered the 20 awg. I did wire the blues at 500mA with the 26awg which should be fine. It's unlikely they will be running very bright at all. 

The iAqua shield is in the assembly process, waiting on some solder wick that should be here today. One of the voltage regulator is the wrong part yet correct thing off the parts list so figuring out a few things with that. 

I do have a question I think the driver boards have a resistor for no PWM signal = no light. They are the Steve's driver boards. Can I jump the resistors to test the LEDs? It's likely that the LEDs will be wired before the iAqua is fully assembled and I would like to verify that they work correctly.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

No, you need to "open" it...not jump it..AFAICT..
Suggest just using a button cell 4v battery for testing...
5V wall wart works as well.. Just common the negative to the DC neg of the ps..

Theoretically..

I've been recommending Rapid LED jumpered boards for this very reason..

Point of the resistor is if the controller fails lights will not go to full on.. and limit current.
Much less of an issue w/ fw than sw...


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Jumpers don't bother me, I did actually want the boards with the jumpers so that no signal = 0 

I like the adjustable voltage on this power supply.

Wire came in today... 66ft of it and now I'm out of wire again... 

Tested and wired everything but the UV!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Cool....
BTW
3.5" dia spread for every 1" off the water line..
17.3" At 5" off the water line..

About 7" for 24" wide tank..
Adjust up/down to taste...

My point was.. I want to be able to easily remove the "safety" for testing.
Pull the jumpers for testing/no controller..
Bugs me they all aren't made like this.. Personal thing..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Here is a ROUGH timelapse of the lights dimming from nearly full power to moonlights. 
https://youtu.be/9-18OF5yPOs

I haven't forgotten about this project, just been busy and holidays are coming up! My iAqua control is MOSTLY working, being my first arduino project that was a bit of an undertaking but I'm amazed and delighted that I built it. My BF worked from home today and monitored the light for a roughly full day run. The heatsink got at most warm under nearly full power. We are still designing a hood to mount it in so thats the next major step, you will have to ignore all the PWM wires hanging down in the video lol. I've mostly guessed at channel levels so far. My local aquarium society does have a PAR meter so I'll work on getting my hands on that once the project is complete to fine tune the lights. This whole tank is a much larger project lol...

I am pretty disappointed in the driver boards from Steves LEDs there are problems with both of them. One board works 95%. Each fresh fish is on its own driver but all 9 drivers are run off a single PWM. That is they all run off one PWM except the driver in the channel 6 spot. As soon as you connect the PWM input from channel 6 whether its 1-9 LEDs together they all go to zero output despite any current PWM signal. So that LED/Driver is currently not running. The other board has different issues, there are at least two driver locations that are putting out a small amount of power with no PWM input, enough to dimly light the tank for that channel. I should be able to make the boards work simply because I wasn't planning on using all the locations on the boards, but I'm still annoyed the assembly is that poor on them.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Hmmm... well there may be other issues here than the driver boards.. BUT hard to say..
Aduinos PWM current is quite low .. don't remeber the exact figure but I believe its like 30mA.
LDD's theoretically take very little current to drive the PWM circuit BUT the combined load may be problematic (shouldn't be.. but )



> The other board has different issues, there are at least two driver locations that are putting out a small amount of power with no PWM input, enough to dimly light the tank for that channel.


That sounds more like leakage current than a driver issue..

Did you test each COB/star for shorts to the heat sink?
You need (for the small 3v ones) to use a VOM set to Ohms or diode and probe neg on star to pos on heat sink and reverse. IF any light dimly you have a bridge from the star to heatsink.
Never tested big COBs and a VOM won't do it (Ohms output is 3V or so for most. Some Flukes are higher).

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/blog/using-a-digital-multimeter-dmm-to-test-leds/


Also keep in mind some colors like rb/b/violet can stimulate phosphors in white LED chips close to them..

The components you chose are fairly bullet proof...

OK found this BUT, be aware.. these numbers change w/ the wind..



> If the LDD truly draw max of 5ma and the arduino can push out 40ma, just perfect for me, I'm doing 6 LDD for my royal blue.


8 max per PWM pin................and I believe mA draw on the LDD changes w/ duty cycle.....


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## MrMan (Dec 5, 2014)

Mikaila31 said:


> Here is a ROUGH timelapse of the lights dimming from nearly full power to moonlights.
> https://youtu.be/9-18OF5yPOs
> 
> I haven't forgotten about this project, just been busy and holidays are coming up! My iAqua control is MOSTLY working, being my first arduino project that was a bit of an undertaking but I'm amazed and delighted that I built it. My BF worked from home today and monitored the light for a roughly full day run. The heatsink got at most warm under nearly full power. We are still designing a hood to mount it in so thats the next major step, you will have to ignore all the PWM wires hanging down in the video lol. I've mostly guessed at channel levels so far. My local aquarium society does have a PAR meter so I'll work on getting my hands on that once the project is complete to fine tune the lights. This whole tank is a much larger project lol...
> ...


The iAqua is using a PCA9685 which can only source 10mA so if it is a current issue you may need to add a buffer circuit to run 9 drivers off one signal.

But if it was a current issue I wouldn't expect 9 cobs to run OK until you add a second PWM signal.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Mis-read your post... sorry..


> Each fresh fish is on its own driver but all 9 drivers are run off a single PWM. That is they all run off one PWM except the driver in the channel 6 spot. As soon as you connect the PWM input from channel 6 whether its 1-9 LEDs together they all go to zero output despite any current PWM signal.


Now a bit of past "experience" w/ Steves boards..
One thread here seemed to imply there is a need (why ????) to hook power to both "inputs" of this board..

Why is ?????? but may be worth a try..

To Mr Man...........


> The PCA9685 operates with a supply voltage range of 2.3 V to 5.5 V and the inputs and
> outputs are 5.5 V tolerant. LEDs can be directly connected to the LED output (*up to
> 25 mA, 5.5 V*) or controlled with external drivers and a minimum amount of discrete
> components for larger current or higher voltage LEDs.


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## MrMan (Dec 5, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> Mis-read your post... sorry..
> 
> 
> Now a bit of past "experience" w/ Steves boards..
> ...


They can sink 25mA (ie connecting led directly to the chip), source 10mA.

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Thanks.. and got it..

Still it leaves a mystery, like I eluded to earlier..





> The rated outputs are:
> 40mA per PWM pin on Storm
> 10mA per pin on Storm X
> 
> ...


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

MrMan said:


> The iAqua is using a PCA9685 which can only source 10mA so if it is a current issue you may need to add a buffer circuit to run 9 drivers off one signal.
> 
> But if it was a current issue I wouldn't expect 9 cobs to run OK until you add a second PWM signal.


Its not the iAqua because it doesn't matter if I have 2 cobs or 7(most I have hooked up thus far on one PWM) soon as I connect the PWM for the driver in question everything sharing that PWM goes dead. We tested all the LEDs with the button cell as a PWM input and confirmed they were all working, using the same driver/up location for each one. Its not a load issue, its a issue with one driver specifically. I cannot get it to respond with PWM even running it alone with the current driver/board location. I was out of town for part of the weekend. I plan to dig into these issues tomorrow and do some testing.



> That sounds more like leakage current than a driver issue..
> 
> Did you test each COB/star for shorts to the heat sink?
> You need (for the small 3v ones) to use a VOM set to Ohms or diode and probe neg on star to pos on heat sink and reverse. IF any light dimly you have a bridge from the star to heatsink.
> Never tested big COBs and a VOM won't do it (Ohms output is 3V or so for most. Some Flukes are higher).


I have not ruled this out, which I plan to do tomorrow. I does not make sense with what I have seen. Again its not a issue with a specific series as I have tested it with both the warm whites and the blues. Both light slightly w/o PWM with that driver in either of the two board positions I found with this issue. Yet same driver moved to a third position on the board and they don't light. :S


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Hmmm.. To be honest, few problems w/ LDD's were ever reported unless put in backwards.. Then they just blow out..

I did manage (forgot how) to pop one on my own though...
As I said, usually bullet proof..but they are mass produced..


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## Mikaila31 (Mar 28, 2010)

Okay so basically finished update. We spent 6 hours last night finally putting the heatsink into the hood we had made and wiring it up. I'm really happy with the light even though its taken me this long. It is passively cooled and does not get very warm on the top at all. The doors unslot from the hood and I hope to add some quick disconnect wires so that the heatsink can be removed easily. My one big gripe with this I absolutely do not recommend buying the 8 up driver boards from Steves LEDs. They have very poor build quality. The board that runs 8 of the fresh fish cobs works 95% correctly. The driver slot 65K-6 the PWM output is a short to ground somewhere on the board. Which is why that LED isn't running and if I wire that PWM up to the rest of them it turns them all off with the short. Tried different drivers and LEDs and it comes back to that position on the board. The other driver board is an absolute mess. One of the power lights doesn't work, some of the board locations have voltage leakage that lights the LEDs very dimly w/o PWM input, which is why they are spaced oddly on that board. The wire connectors also work very poorly and we snapped a few of them on the final install. I am working on seeing if my local society has a PAR meter and I will post some specs if I am able to get one. My iAqua is still running but continues to have weird power issues I can't quiet pinpoint so its still a work in progress, it is currently controlling the lights tho.


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

Have Steve's swap out your board, they are in general very helpful and should make it right.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Mikaila31 said:


> Okay so basically finished update. We spent 6 hours last night finally putting the heatsink into the hood we had made and wiring it up. I'm really happy with the light even though its taken me this long. It is passively cooled and does not get very warm on the top at all. The doors unslot from the hood and I hope to add some quick disconnect wires so that the heatsink can be removed easily. My one big gripe with this I absolutely do not recommend buying the 8 up driver boards from Steves LEDs. They have very poor build quality. The board that runs 8 of the fresh fish cobs works 95% correctly. The driver slot 65K-6 the PWM output is a short to ground somewhere on the board. Which is why that LED isn't running and if I wire that PWM up to the rest of them it turns them all off with the short. Tried different drivers and LEDs and it comes back to that position on the board. The other driver board is an absolute mess. One of the power lights doesn't work, some of the board locations have voltage leakage that lights the LEDs very dimly w/o PWM input, which is why they are spaced oddly on that board. The wire connectors also work very poorly and we snapped a few of them on the final install. I am working on seeing if my local society has a PAR meter and I will post some specs if I am able to get one. My iAqua is still running but continues to have weird power issues I can't quiet pinpoint so its still a work in progress, it is currently controlling the lights tho.


Glad you got it installed! I went with the same heatsink from the looks and didn't need powered cooling, but since it was enclosed in my hood I used PC 12v fans running at 7v or 9v just to keep them cooler for a longer life. Went from about 100°F to 75-80°F on the sink. 

But that sucks to hear about your driver board. Now I'm really glad I went with O2Surplus boards instead, as I only had one minor issue with one of the 16 channels that I've since fixed with a touch of a soldering iron. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

I like that heatsink. My next big-boy build is going passive overkill for sure, but since I have a buddy with a mill, I may have a couple cutouts put in the fins to run some quiet frameless fans for backup/heatwaves/future additions.


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## DonoBBD (Jan 23, 2018)

Long time lurker first time poster.

I am a very big fan of LEDs and own my own company as a technical adviser on the board of directors. We have dabbled in LED grow lights and still find that UV is hard to make in high intensity. High intensity in regards to making lettuce with the dark colours.

We do find that you can make way more light will less heat with the 3528 LED. If you do like the COB LED and would like to maximize its potential you can run a PWM circuit with heat sensor on your heat sink. Program the COB to run to its max amperage (built in 20% buffer) and the heat sensors max temp over load. When the heat sink reaches max temp the PWM circuit will pull amperage from the COB and dim the light. This is a 100% fool proof safety for your LEDs. 

I am more of a big fan of the Magnitude drivers. The average Joe can buy a 120v dimming driver. Just hook up your 24v LED strip lights to their dimming driver and program on the 120v side. A simple best buy home lighting controller will do wonders.

Below is a 300watt monster with 6 fans over a 125 gallon tote bottom with dwarf sag only. Dirt bottom with pea stone coverage. Running the water temp at 75*. The LED light has IR, Orange, Red, Blue. IF you look close the plants are black in colour. This is when you know the light spectrum is optimum. The plants are absorbing 100% of the light being produced. You do not want to look at the IR as you can't see it and will damage your eyes. The key is strength in numbers. More LED's smaller LED's. Running the EC on the water at 800ppm and keeping them trimmed makes the sag spread and shoot runners.

Sorry for the long post thought I would add my 2cents.

Cheers Don.


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## napaeozapus (Feb 22, 2014)

Are you still loving the DROK adjustable power supply? Before I jump out and buy one...


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