# First Ever Planted Tank (Advice Welcome)



## adive (Oct 30, 2013)

I would suggest that you read about Flourite here unless you already know these facts:
http://www.seachem.com/support/FAQs/Flourite.html#faq1

It doesnt seem to have macros. So I would suggest observing if plants develop deficiencies and taking care of those but overall seems like you will need (dry/liquid) ferts and root tabs depending on the plants you get (root feeders such as crypts need root tabs). See the above link.

I have seen successful tanks with dirt+flourite (here's one: http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/el-natural/62318-55g-low-tech-angel-tank.html ).

Any thoughts on CO2? will you be injecting? Maybe Excel? Or none at all?


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks for the advice on the root tabs. Any brand suggestions? Also I do not plan to do any Co2 it's just a hassle I don't want to deal with just yet.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

How can I tell how much "Light" I have for the purposes of my tank. I want to make sure I have enough but not too much.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Just list, as exact as possible, what you have and how far the bulbs are from the top of the gravel.
But to be honest/w you I tend to 98% shy away from bald face lies common in corporate America today such as
that statement "guaranteed success aquarium kit".
Actually I think it would be hard to list any particular info about that light except it's an LED.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> Just list, as exact as possible, what you have and how far the bulbs are from the top of the gravel.
> But to be honest/w you I tend to 98% shy away from bald face lies common in corporate America today such as
> that statement "guaranteed success aquarium kit".
> Actually I think it would be hard to list any particular info about that light except it's an LED.


2 Amazon Swords (Echinodorus cordifolius), 8-10 inches long, 
1 Java Fern (Microsorium pteropus) - 2-3 inches long, 
1 Anubias barteri "Broad Leaf" - 5-7 inches long, 
2 Bunches of Java Moss (Vesicularia)
2 Crypt Wendtii "Green"(Cryptocoryne wendtii) - young plants 2-3 inches long, 
4 stems of Limnophila aquatica - 7-8 inches long,
4 stems of Ludwigia "Cuba" - 7-8 inches long, 
5 stems of Rotala rotundifolia - 7-8 inches long, 
5 stems of Ludwigia inclinata - 7-8 inches long,
5 stems of Didiplis diandra - 6-7 inches long
5 stems of Water Wisteria (Hygrophilia Difformis) 2-3 inches long

Substrate is 2 inches deep and I have the stems planted about 1 - 1 1/2 inches down.

As far as the "Guaranteed" part I only listed that as that was the description of the product. 

I do have a question though. I did get the new plants in today and I wanted to know if I should plant the specific species together in bunches or can I spread them out and intermingle them?


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

I was just mentioning that I already have my doubts about the light you have
specifically because of the Guaranteed part. Polking fun at how they make wildly exaggerated claims. But it was the light that I was asking about your being exact about
because I think it just has three 1W LED bulbs ? I was looking at the light coming down in the tank on the first picture.
The plants don't care where you plant them. Together or in different places apart from the same kind. Usually in a natural aria like a stream they would be in groups of the same kind. But that doesn't really matter if you want different shades of green together for example. The Wendtii, the Java Fern/moss and the Anubias are the only ones that I feel good about saying they should work in that light. These are plants which can grow in very low light. But all of them do grow slowly.
I will give you a link which you can look all of them up and see how much light each takes to grow.
http://www.aqua-fish.net/index.php?...sto=not&rozmnozovanie=not&povod=not&speed=not
Also on the right hand column clic on "find your plant" to see a different kind of list.
You should try them all in there. Only one is a higher light plant as far as I know for sure. Actually that is quite a bit of plants you started out with.
The stems of some of them are delicate. The Rotala for sure. Try not to beak/mash
the stem when planting. Like don't use it to push the bottom into the substrate.
Try to dig a place with your finger and just place the stem in it and cover that part with the substrate. The Crypt is like that too. Not sure about any other one.
Plants in bunches of 5 or more should be seperated into not more than three stems in a bunch. They won't have room for the roots to spread if more than that is in one bunch.
This is for best results. Not totally necessary. I planted a bunch of Rotala the first time I got some and there were 8 in that bunch and most lived. It just works better for the plant to seperate them to no more than three in a bunch.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks for the quick reply! I appreicate the link and I will pour over it soon. I used this sites (TPT) in house plant library to look at and get a lot of the same info your link gives. So I realize my LED's are gonna be VERY inatiquate. I would love to get my hands on a Marineland double bright (looking for deals on amazon right now) But I am also worried about having "too much" light. I don't want to do Co2 so I want a good light for my 10 gallon that isn't gonna force me to get Co2. (suggestions anyone?) 

I did a lot of video watching before diving into this and found tweezers to be a good way to plant so I did that. I also did get the same advice about bunching them together in groups of 3 stems so I did that right at least. (now I just hope it all lives) 

I tied all my Java Moss to the driftwood and decided to take out that massive rock (I might put a smaller rock in later. For now I have the tank planted and I am just gonna leave it alone

As far as Fertilizer........ Flourish? Or somthing else? How long after I initially set up and plant the tank should I do my first fertilizing? (This is the area I am in most need of advice)


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## Absntmind (Jul 16, 2012)

You can start ferts right away. Flourish Comprehensive along with root tabs would be fine. Starting out just dose once a week. If you use prime for water changes, make sure to wait at least 24 hours before dosing ferts.


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## burr740 (Feb 19, 2014)

When the other plants arrive, you might want to put that Wisteria along the back somewhere because it can get quite tall.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368
Looking on the LED chart on this link tells you the only one low enough for a 10g is the Marineland DB. However the Satalite+ is dimmable so would also suit your purpose though more expensive. It does have more color options as the Marineland only is white light.


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## Dave_IOW (Jun 29, 2014)

Absntmind said:


> If you use prime for water changes, make sure to wait at least 24 hours before dosing ferts.


Hi, could you explain why you need to wait 24 hours please?


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Absntmind said:


> You can start ferts right away. Flourish Comprehensive along with root tabs would be fine. Starting out just dose once a week. If you use prime for water changes, make sure to wait at least 24 hours before dosing ferts.


Thanks for that direct answer to my question. I really appreciate it. I do have a follow up question though. How often should I do a water change after the "initial" set up. 

As far as root tabs go.... How do I know which plants to put tabs under and which ones I shouldn't. And how often do you add root tabs?


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368
> Looking on the LED chart on this link tells you the only one low enough for a 10g is the Marineland DB. However the Satalite+ is dimmable so would also suit your purpose though more expensive. It does have more color options as the Marineland only is white light.


Raymond thanks a lot. I appreciate the advice. I am really looking at get getting a light i can place directly on the tank frame and that will be sufficient light for the tank. 

I looked at the LED thread for lighting on here and I had an additional question. As far as need for Co2 At what threshold do you need to start looking at Co2 when looking at light intensity? High light..... Medium High Light...... I know it depends somewhat on what plants you want to keep but I also was under the impression it had to do with your lighting as well.


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## scx (Sep 8, 2013)

Get rid of the rock in there. It's way too big and soft looking


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

scx said:


> Get rid of the rock in there. It's way too big and soft looking


Already did! lol :hihi:


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

I am curious about filtration as well. I suspect the 10 gallon whisper filter that I have in there is not going to cut it. I had originally planned on upgrading to a Fluval C2 but I wonder if that is going to be enough. 

Any suggestions on HOB filter I should use on a 10 gallon. I would love to do a Canister but I am limited on space to place it so HOB is what I have to use. 

Thanks for the advice folks!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

One question at a time...LOL...
Algae/CO2: Look at the link again. The T5 chart. Look at the section directly above it "Low, med high light" to find where you need CO2.
Only Osmocote+ tabs(actually capsules) have all nutrients. The rest have only part of the nutrients. In a tank that size, I would just use no more than 4 of them in there.
Spread them right down the center evenly spaced(one end to the other) but don't use them frequently. Just once every 5 months. These can build up if used more. They have coating which makes them time release. This link is from someone on here.
They sell plant "stuff".
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=506393&highlight=
A good up-grade is actually the Aquaclear 20. It lets you pick the media. They are known for long life.
http://www.petmountain.com/product/...6/hagen-aquaclear-aquaclear-power-filter.html
But yes that would mean buying the media also.
Look like the Satalite light may be right for you as you can gradually turn it up as needed by your plants. You might look into that to see if it fits your budget on this
as it can add up fast.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> One question at a time...LOL...
> Algae/CO2: Look at the link again. The T5 chart. Look at the section directly above it "Low, med high light" to find where you need CO2.
> Only Osmocote+ tabs(actually capsules) have all nutrients. The rest have only part of the nutrients. In a tank that size, I would just use no more than 4 of them in there.
> Spread them right down the center evenly spaced(one end to the other) but don't use them frequently. Just once every 5 months. These can build up if used more. They have coating which makes them time release. This link is from someone on here.
> ...



Raymond you are a life saver I have got to tell you!

All three of your suggestions are perfect. 

I do have a question about the Osmocote+ though. Should I be using it in conjunction with the Florish or in stead of?


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Flourish is a Micro fert. By it's self, incomplete. It should be used/w a Macro type fert.
Let me suggest something. Read the first post on this link and the "Darkblade48" answers to it. Should give a better perspective of the whole picture.
Bare in mind that increasing the amount of carbon artificially is done by quite a few but not a necessary thing unless you are using higher levels of light.
But it dose increase the plant growth speed and also the overall cost of your tank "stuff". Starting/w a regular lower level of light and not using added carbon keeps things slower and easier to maintain as well as keeping down the cost of a tank.
The Amazons likely you will plant to see how they look, but getrid of in a couple of months as they get far too big for a 10g. The next three are plants which get ferts from the water. So the answer is you should use them both but you will need more than just the Flourish to dose because those three plants won't get all the nutrients from just the Flourish. Were it not for them, the other plants could get full ferts from the root tabs and extra from the Flourish and since the root tabs would give them the full nutrients, the Flourish would be OK because it's just extra.
But read the start of that thread as we are getting ahead of it now.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> Flourish is a Micro fert. By it's self, incomplete. It should be used/w a Macro type fert.
> Let me suggest something. Read the first post on this link and the "Darkblade48" answers to it. Should give a better perspective of the whole picture.
> Bare in mind that increasing the amount of carbon artificially is done by quite a few but not a necessary thing unless you are using higher levels of light.
> But it dose increase the plant growth speed and also the overall cost of your tank "stuff". Starting/w a regular lower level of light and not using added carbon keeps things slower and easier to maintain as well as keeping down the cost of a tank.
> ...


I am not sure if I found the specific post you meant for me to look at but, I found the write up by Darkblade48 and his guide. Let me suggest that EVERYONE be required to read that guide before doing their first post here! lol Very simple to follow and really helps make sense. 

Thanks Ray.

I also got a chance to look at the "list" of low light plants. I think I am going to be doing some swapping out of plants later.. The bunch that I got off of the ebay reseller was a decent selection of plants but it didn't cater to a low light setup.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

True, except for the Wisteria which will grow in any light, the rest of the plants marked "Stemmed plants" are more for med light level or at least would grow much better in it. Crypt Parva likes high light and likely a couple of other Crypts may also but the Wendtii will work in lower light and the Java fern does better in it. That and Anubias may seem to grow faster(a bit) in med light but will collect algae on their leaves which will kill any leaf it gets thick on. Those two plants grow very slowly.
They may only get one leaf a month. And that Java Fern, the leaf will look funny as it grows as the tip end of it will have less color. This gave me the impression that it wasn't getting enough light on the first time I grew one. Just the way it grows though.
Also as Anubias has leaves longer than regular plants, when one gets ready to die, it turns yellow. This often happens when the pants environment is changed so a person who never had one thinks the whole plant is dieing on them...not. Just loosing one or two older leaves as a result of the move.
The Wisteria, if it has round leaves is an emersed growth plant. This changes when it begins being grown under water. The leaves which come out are a different shape.
The older ones will die off during this transition but it will start slowly.
Java Fern and Anubias have Rhysomes which look like it has a stem going across the bottom of the leaves. This must not be planted. Only the roots which hang down from it should be planted. So these plants are often tied to wood/rocks which they eventually will root to. But then that is why the root tabs don't work for them and the Java moss.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

I read somewhere that I shouldn't perform a water change for a while after my initial set up... When should I start water changes?


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

My computer being sickly due to still being on XP which has become corrupted, I can't
give you a link for this one. Put AqAdvisor into search and you will get a site which
gives when and how much by a number of factors. And need I say most don't 100% trust it, but it's close enough in most cases.
But once you add fish/shrimp or whatever other critters your mind devises to put in there, it should begin at whatever time interval the calculator says is right.
Most seem to believe the environment is better for their fish if that is a weekly basis.
But that "most" seems to be not that much over 50-60% of tank owners as some prefer to do monthly changes. Lots of people who keep shrimp say the shrimp don't like changes and do monthly. One fert system uses monthly...so monthly is almost as common as weekly but I dare not guess a percent on it.
Whatever you have decided as intervals, it would be that amount of time after introducing livestock. This is after the cycle of course, which should be before fish are added.
http://www.fishlore.com/NitrogenCycle.htm


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> My computer being sickly due to still being on XP which has become corrupted, I can't
> give you a link for this one. Put AqAdvisor into search and you will get a site which
> gives when and how much by a number of factors. And need I say most don't 100% trust it, but it's close enough in most cases.
> But once you add fish/shrimp or whatever other critters your mind devises to put in there, it should begin at whatever time interval the calculator says is right.
> ...


AqAdvisor is DOWN lol.


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## shawnwaldon (Dec 5, 2013)

Your first planted aquarium how exciting. I have been looking through all the threads posted here and everyone seems to have given you good advice so I will add my two cents. I agree with SCX on getting rid of the rock due to its size. As far as lighting goes if you want an LED fixture you can look at the Finnex fugeray planted plus. I also would not rule out fluorescent fixtures either. I have used a couple different fluorescent combinations in my 10 gallon I had and was successful. I used two 20 watt 6500K CFL house bulbs in the stock hood and I also used a 11 watt with a 8 watt T2 fixture after I wanted to get rid of the hood due to condensation. All of my lights were successful. Here is a pic with the 2 cfl bulbs. Unfortunately due to a computer virus I don't have the pics of it with the T2 fixture, but I have one of my 5 gallon with it so you can compare. 

10 gallon

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y412/shawnwaldon/December_zpsece9a491.jpg 

5 Gallon

http://i1273.photobucket.com/albums/y412/shawnwaldon/December2013_zps1fc2f15f.jpg

No matter what fixture you decide to use keep this in mind. If you start getting an algae problem you can always shorten your light cycle and get algae eating fish to help with the issue. That's what I did.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> *But it was the light that I was asking about your being exact about* because I think it just has three 1W LED bulbs ? I was looking at the light coming down in the tank on the first picture.
> .



I have been pouring over the advice and feedback I have been getting because I wanted to make sure I didn't miss anything and in case I had some other questions... TOTALLY Missed the above quoted part! lol. 

So I did some research on the hood that comes with the tank and I found this reply direct from Tetra:* The LED hoods are only 5500-5900 Kelvin, and plants require 6500 Kelvin or better. We would recommend a glass canopy and either the Aquatic Plant Lighting System or you could use the hood, but add a Hidden LED light to the tank as well. These come in lengths of 17" and 21" and are 6500 Kelvin, 460 nm, ideal for live plants. They tuck away under the top frame of the tank, so you can place it in the front of the tank, for example, and not see it, but get the benefits of the light. The light is strong enough to grow moderate to high light needy plants*

*K measurement: - 6000K - 7.4 lumens per LED under ideal conditions - Each of the LEDs in the kit light is 60mW*

*Another person asked: I have a Tetra 10 gallon tank with the new low profile lid and LED lights, will I be able to at least keep low light plants such as Java fern, Java moss, or Jungle val?*

Got to give them credit for this though: *Some of those low light plants will live in that kit, yes, but will not necessarily grow or bloom under that light. If you find they do not grow or bloom, you could always add the Hidden LED in the 17" length, by Marineland*


So they freely admit that the lighting is not good enough for planted tanks.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

*** TANK UPDATE **** 

So its been just over a week since I started this adventure. Here is what has changed. 

I got rid of the big rock that was in there. I think I may add another piece of driftwood later though. 
I went ahead and purchased a Aquaclear 20 and set it up in the tank. I just put it along side the whisper filter that came with the kit. In the AC20 I put a bag of Purigen in the filter in place of the carbon. (I cannot believe how clear that stuff makes the water) 
I obtained a bottle of Flourish and some of the Osmocote+ that Ray suggested for root tabs. (Still need advice on Dosing on the Flourish....) 
BTW Which is better Seachem Flourish Excel or API CO2 Booster
Since I cannot get a better light (just yet) I stole the "Marineland Hidden LED Lighting System" (The website has posted specs at 25 PAR @ 12") from my 75 Gallon Red Eared Slider Turtle Tank (It's his night light) to put in there in the mean time. 
My plan is to get the Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights within the next month. (Alternative suggestions welcome)

Here are pictures of the new tank, this is with the original LED lights that came in the hood. 





















These are the with the added light




















And Close-ups of the plants.














































Again Feedback (both positive and constructive) are always welcome!


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

So try to remember that Java Fern and Anubia need to be with the Rhysome above the gravel. The part which looks like a stem going across the bottom of the leaves.
Only the roots which hang down from the Rhysome can be planted in the sub.
A while back I planted one of each of those on, not in the bottom by just using those lead plant weights laid across the Rhysome to hold it down to the bottom till it rooted by it's self. then I took off the weights. Was about 60 days to root it that way.
Next time you are in a shop ask to see a Anubias Nana. That would be a better size for that tank. The one you have will get fairly large.
My lease does not allow over 10g tank. So I have two of them. I find it hard to find plants I like that are small enough.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> So try to remember that Java Fern and Anubia need to be with the Rhysome above the gravel. The part which looks like a stem going across the bottom of the leaves.
> Only the roots which hang down from the Rhysome can be planted in the sub.
> A while back I planted one of each of those on, not in the bottom by just using those lead plant weights laid across the Rhysome to hold it down to the bottom till it rooted by it's self. then I took off the weights. Was about 60 days to root it that way.
> Next time you are in a shop ask to see a Anubias Nana. That would be a better size for that tank. The one you have will get fairly large.
> My lease does not allow over 10g tank. So I have two of them. I find it hard to find plants I like that are small enough.


Thanks Raymond, I will look for them for sure.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Raymond S. said:


> My lease does not allow over 10g tank. So I have two of them. I find it hard to find plants I like that are small enough.


Pictures??


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Need help identifying a couple of these plants. 

I have managed to identify half of the plants in the tank. I have lost a couple of plants already from the list. I am just looking to identify the two plants in my tank that I can't figure out.... I plan to actually label them until I get more familiar with them by sight. 

So any help is welcome

Here is the list of what I have and what I have identified.


1. 2 Amazon Swords (Echinodorus cordifolius), 8-10 inches long, 
2. 1 Java Fern (Microsorium pteropus) - 2-3 inches long, 
3. 1 Anubias barteri "Broad Leaf" - 5-7 inches long, 
4. 2 Bunches of Java Moss (Vesicularia)
5. 4 stems of Limnophila aquatica - 7-8 inches long,
6. 1 Marimo moss ball
?. 4 stems of Ludwigia "Cuba" - 7-8 inches long, 
?. 5 stems of Rotala rotundifolia - 7-8 inches long, 
?. 5 stems of Ludwigia inclinata - 7-8 inches long,
?. 5 stems of Didiplis diandra - 6-7 inches long
?. 5 stems of Water Wisteria (Hygrophilia Difformis) 2-3 inches long


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

The question mark farthest to the right may be one of these. There are a couple of types of them all called Pennywort.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/m...=Brazilian_Pennywort_Hydrocotyle_leucocephala
The one to the left of that is likely the Rotala R.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks Ray!

So I need a good suggestion for a carpeting plant. I would prefer not to do moss. Any suggestions?


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

So I picked up a Anubus Nana from my LFS and it is a beautiful piece. Its even rooted to a small piece of driftwood and looks great. HOWEVER...... It came from a tank that was used for storing and breeding Red Ramshorn Snails....... I don't want ANY snails in my tank so I went ahead and inspected every leaf both top and bottom and scraped off the 100+ snail eggs that I found on the leaves..... there were dozens of the jello like pods on the leaves. 

Afterward I went ahead and did a dip for 4 minutes in a bleach solution of 19 cups of water and 1 cup of bleach.... 

I then flushed the whole thing for an hour with clean water and then I put it back in the container with fresh water and Prime.

I am thinking of keeping it quarantined for the next week in the separate container with the prime and seeing if any snails show up. I know it can take about 2 weeks or more for the snails to hatch but I THINK I got every pod off of the leaves. 

Hope this works... if not that was $20 down the drain..

On a side note.... Today is my Birthday and I ended up getting gift cards that I am gonna turn into Amazon gift cards. I should end up with $100 to spend at Amazon.... I was wondering if someone had a good suggestion for a good plant light for my 10 gallon. 

Again I don't plan on doing CO2 injection so I can't go high light.. I am likely looking at low to medium light.
I was looking at the Finnex FugeRay Planted+ Aquarium LED Light Plus Moonlights or Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Plus Light but I am also open to other suggestions. 

Any feedback and advice is welcome.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Find out if the Satalite plus has any red bulbs in it...good. It is dimmable so you pick the light level. Regular just white lights wash out a lot of the color if they have no other colors/w them. Like the Finnex RayII. Just an example as I know that one is too high for your tank. I think the dimmable part may be an option.


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

Happy Birthday!

Get yourself a present:

Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Plus Light for Aquarium, 18 to 24-Inch:Amazonet Supplies
v3


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

OVT said:


> Happy Birthday!
> 
> Get yourself a present:
> 
> ...


Happy Birthday to me! 

So I did end up ordering the Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Plus Light for Aquarium, 18 to 24-Inch:Amazonet Supplies and I have to admit I really love it. I am using the specs from the Current Satellite Page here on TPT and it shows my PAR is 36 at 12", The light sits about 10-11 inches above the substrate so it might be closer to 37-38 PAR. So according to the Lighting thread that Ray had me read I am actually on the low end of the Medium Light range, "Medium light - 35-50 micromols of PAR - CO2 may be needed to avoid too many nuisance algae problems" So I guess my quetstion is this. When looking at plants I had originally been focusing on Low Light Plants. Here is what I had originally planned (after the first disaster of all those plants i got from Ebay)



I dont have the Downoi or the Red Java Fern yet and I still want to get more Anacharis 

The back third of the tank was intended to be plants I could put in my tank that woud be edible for my Red Eared Slider Turtle

I am using a dosing schedule of every other day of 1mL of Seachem Flourish and alternating days with 1mL of Seachem Florish Excel

I even was able to use the AQAdvisor site and got my tank stocked with appropriate fish. 

So I guess my questions are... Now that I am on the low end of the medium light scale
1. Am I going to need to worry more about my "Low Light" plants
2. Can I look at Medium light plants or is the low end of the scale still too low light?


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Does anyone have any feedback on this?


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Lots of med light plants will grow in low light. So you sould be able to grow 80-90% of them. Just that some wil grow a bit slower than they would at 50PAR for example.
And I'm not really sure I know what you mean by worry about my low light plants more.
They may tend to get a bit of GSA on the leaves as slow as they normally grow.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks Ray. I worried about what it would mean to my low light plants if I had too much light going to them.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

According to Hoppy's chart on T8 bulbs I have about 75-80 PAR in my tank/w T8 bulbs and I just get a little GSA in there. Others may call it more than a little though.
But then I went through 6-7 bulb combos trying to find a combo that grew less algae.
Just saying your light is dimmable so you can dial it back if it causes algae on the leaves. Most low light plants grow slowly so they tend to collect algae on the older leaves if the light is on too long or too high. But you can adjust yours.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Hello again TPT! 

I just wanted to take a minute and give a quick update. So my little 10 gallon has gone through some changes over the last several months. And is still going to be having some new updates here soon but I wanted to give a update picture. 


After getting lazy on my dosing schedule I ended up with a bad outbreak of BBA and had to do a 4 day blackout to get it killed, lost some plants along the way but all in all it looks like the tank is doing much better. 



I am going to be going to more detailed liquid ferts here soon and hopefully it will help fix some of the dark spots and holes I am getting. 

But how in the hell do you get rid of GSA. Its all over my S. Repens and my Anbius Nana (but not showing up on the new growth of the Nana) 

Anyway I welcome the advice and also any suggestions on how to improve the look of my tank.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

I'm not familiar/w S. Repens. The Anubias will get GSA on their older leaves because of how high the light is. Shade will stop it but not remove the GSA from where it already is.
Don't know how to spell it but a Philidendrom(house plant) is related to Anubias and they grow inside/w no direct light on them. So putting the Anubias under something will not kill it. After a month like that you may be able to rub off the GSA from the leaves/w your finger. The new leaves won't get any though.
Tank looks much better...
http://www.fishfriend.com/fertfriend.html
I don't know how to trim an Amazon Sword. They get huge though. If trimming it doesn't work and you might replace it when it gets too big, you might want to try a Crypt Wendtii Bronze there. Eventually they can get fairly big also. But like taking up that whole corner and the Amazon will get twice that size(20-22" tall).
But the Wendtii Bronze will give you another color besides green.


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## MEandYouPhoto (Jul 1, 2014)

Thanks Raymond! 

I see a deep red plant, kinda bushy in some tanks on the forum. No idea what its called but would love to get one in my tank. Any ideas on a good red plant.


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