# Building the ideal CO2 regulator kit



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

If you were to build the ideal CO2 regulator kit, what would be your regulator of choice, solenoid, and needle valve?

Since I can't afford to buy the regulator kit of my choice, I could probably build my own. Here is what I would use:

Smith Regulator Series 30
Burkert Brass Solenoid Type 6011
Fabco NV-55 Needle valve

I figure I'll be spending around $150.00 for something like this.

How would you build yours?


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Please do yourself a favor and build your own. It may take longer but in the end it will be cheaper, more reliable and safer. 

I just switched from clippards to a burkert. Couldnt be happier. After two clippard malfunctions in a year from a 2 year old and even a 6 month old I was done with them. The burkert cost more but seems to be more reliable over the long term. Clippard started manufacturing their solenoids n China a few years ago and ever since then they have been very un reliable.


----------



## OoglyBoogly (Oct 19, 2010)

Just like Bsmith said. 

You have so many more options when you build your own. You wind up learning a LOT in the process. Lurk on ebay and you could probably snag a used dual stage cga-320 regulator for under $50. Cheaper than a single stage regulator and I think you no longer have to worry about any type of problems with gassing your fish to death when the tank runs low. I'm still in the learning process with this and am slowboating the process of collecting the parts. Sometimes you can get other kinds of dual stage regulators for dirt cheap and then buy an aftermarket cga-320 thinger and you wind up saving even more money if you don't mind spending the time/effort buying and replacing the part. Some people are into making sure their parts are all chrome/stainless steal etc so they will spend the extra money to make sure every piece is similar looking.

I too plan on eventually get a burkert solenoid. I've seen an increasing amount of people selling their clippard solenoids and milwaukee single stage regulators under the pretense of "upgrading". I'm a bit of a skeptic but if their former gear did the job and didn't cause problems or sleepless nights for them then I don't see why they would dump all their gear on SnS at a loss only to upgrade to something that will sit under a cabinet and will never be seen unless the replacement functions better. Heh I'm being a bit skeptical and perhaps paranoid but it's gotten me thinking lately as I almost bought a whole kit (milwaukee reg + clippard solenoid + fabco needle valve, tubing, bubble counter, etc...) for $70 but in the end the deal fell through (seller never updated any of us potential buyers on wether or not he sold it to some local person after advertising it on SnS and weeks went by) and I was ok with it b/c it was more of an impulse buy and I'm more comfortable thinking that I put some effort into learning about regulators and scored a $300-$400 dual stage regulator for <$50. Now I just need the tubing, solenoid(s), bubble counter, nice needle valve(s), drop checker(s) and perhaps a manifold for multiple tanks... LOL it's a process but one worth taking your time to carry out since cheap parts can end in disaster when you wake up to a tank that suffocated while you were asleep.

/end ramble

p.s. barrreport.com has a nice ongoing thread about co2 regulators where people update it with ebay deals where people have good prices on various dual stage regulators


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

geez... this is probably the sweetest set-up i've seen so far: (not mine)

















(^why don't you ever see these for sale in the sns?)

info on it can be found on the barr report
http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/7785-How-to-build-a-Victor-VTS253b-320/page3

with help from leftc, i just ordered a 2 stage of ebay for about 50 bucks. my post body consists of a burkert 6011 and an ideal 52-1-12. when i put it all together i'll have a rock solid regulator similar to the one pictured above. the cost is about $225. i just won't be using all those fancy chrome pieces..


----------



## tusk (Jan 30, 2006)

Builing your own is the way to go. I JUST upgraded from my Milwaukee setup. I switched because I've had a couple of close calls and a couple of bad calls with my previous rig. I was done dinking around with EOTDs, and it seemed that dual stage was the only way to go. My current rig is....

Victor BHT500 dual stage regulator
Burkert 6011 solenoid 
Ideal V52-1-12 needle valve
JBJ bubble counter
Milwaukee SMS122 pH controller
CAL Aqua dual check drop checker










I flipping love it.


----------



## tusk (Jan 30, 2006)

OoglyBoogly said:


> I almost bought a whole kit (milwaukee reg + clippard solenoid + fabco needle valve, tubing, bubble counter, etc...) for $70 but in the end the deal fell through (seller never updated any of us potential buyers on wether or not he sold it to some local person after advertising it on SnS and weeks went by) and I was ok with it b/c it was more of an impulse buy and I'm more comfortable thinking that I put some effort into learning about regulators and scored a $300-$400 dual stage regulator for <$50. Now I just need the tubing, solenoid(s), bubble counter, nice needle valve(s), drop checker(s) and perhaps a manifold for multiple tanks... LOL it's a process but one worth taking your time to carry out since cheap parts can end in disaster when you wake up to a tank that suffocated while you were asleep.
> 
> /end ramble
> 
> p.s. barrreport.com has a nice ongoing thread about co2 regulators where people update it with ebay deals where people have good prices on various dual stage regulators


I think that might be me.... I had some different stuff though. Sorry about that. Things got to be a pain, life happened, got busy, and forgot. Once again sorry. Pretty sure you'll be happier with the dual stage though.


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Oldpunk is that a chrome plated 52-1-12. If so I have alwYs wondered who else took advantage if that sweet deal arranged by C with Ideal. I'm also one of the many people who wold not have been able to piece together the systems I have without his help. My relationship with Cecil started about 6 years ago on plantgeek (yeah, remember that place!) when I was getting ready to purchase my first PC fixture. 

Now that were posting pics, I'll snap a couple along with the associated costs for the components. 

Let's keep it going!


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

OoglyBoogly said:


> Just like Bsmith said.
> 
> You have so many more options when you build your own. You wind up learning a LOT in the process. Lurk on ebay and you could probably snag a used dual stage cga-320 regulator for under $50. Cheaper than a single stage regulator and I think you no longer have to worry about any type of problems with gassing your fish to death when the tank runs low. I'm still in the learning process with this and am slowboating the process of collecting the parts. Sometimes you can get other kinds of dual stage regulators for dirt cheap and then buy an aftermarket cga-320 thinger and you wind up saving even more money if you don't mind spending the time/effort buying and replacing the part. Some people are into making sure their parts are all chrome/stainless steal etc so they will spend the extra money to make sure every piece is similar looking.
> 
> ...


A dual stage regulator by design can not allow a tank dump to occour, regardless of make. 

Anyone thinking about buying a second hand Clippard solenoid just make sure that it is OVER 3 years old and made in America. Theses are the solenoids that seem to hold up Annemarie better than their Chinese made counterparts.


----------



## OoglyBoogly (Oct 19, 2010)

tusk said:


> I think that might be me.... I had some different stuff though. Sorry about that. Things got to be a pain, life happened, got busy, and forgot. Once again sorry. Pretty sure you'll be happier with the dual stage though.


Aww dude don't sweat it! I wasn't trying to call you out which is why I didn't say "TUSK /raises fist with anger" just showing that circumstances that slow down a process can work out for the better! Ohh and I'm a wordy fella... Seriously though... I never imagined how hefty a regulator can be. In my mind I must have been thinking it was this small light piece especially from seeing these little CO2 kits being sold by Azoo and ADA. I could do some serious damage if I threw the regulator at something :angel:

Anyways. This is the regulator that I picked up:

Airgas E12-244D









I think the knob, cga-320 connector, and output pressure gauge might be aftermarket b/c it looks different than in the mfg pics... The data sheet for this model also says the output pressure goes up to 100 psi yet the gauge on it says 200 psi so I'm not sure how that works out... /shrugs it will be a while before I'll even be able to use/test it. so I guess it too might have been an impulse buy :icon_lol:


----------



## OoglyBoogly (Oct 19, 2010)

bsmith said:


> A dual stage regulator by design can not allow a tank dump to occour, regardless of make.


Yeah man I try not to speak in certainties anymore especially since I was convinced that a protium (Hydrogen atom) had a neutron in it the other day. Talking about a severe memory fail since I passed chem 1 and 2 in college but whatever that was like 10 years ago! Perhaps if I didn't fall asleep EVERY time I tried to read my atomic physics textbook (thus dropping the class b/c I realized it was impossible to try and study) things might have been different!


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

OoglyBoogly said:


> In my mind I must have been thinking it was this small light piece especially from seeing these little CO2 kits being sold by fluval and ADA. I could do some serious damage if I threw the regulator at something :angel:


haha - the shipping weight for the one i just bought is 6lbs. i have #5 tank. i'm currently trying to figure out how to strap it to something under the stand.


----------



## tusk (Jan 30, 2006)

OoglyBoogly - Cool  

Good luck with the rest of your build.


----------



## OoglyBoogly (Oct 19, 2010)

Hey tusk I see you have a PH meter (sms122?) I bought one from a forum member and I was wondering if you use a drop checker to calibrate when your PH alarm turns off your solenoid? I was thinking about if it would be a good idea to plug the relay into a timer so that regardless of the PH meter readings the CO2 would be only be able to go on when I allowed it on the timer but could also turn off during the photoperiod in case the CO2 was too much.


----------



## tusk (Jan 30, 2006)

That is how I have mine setup. I have mine on a timer that kicks on an hour before the lights do. By the time the lights come on, I'm right where I need to be. I did calibrate via the drop checker. Only way to go IMO. When I first started I didn't use a checker and did the testing and math thing. A drop checker is way easier.


----------



## OoglyBoogly (Oct 19, 2010)

tusk said:


> That is how I have mine setup. I have mine on a timer that kicks on an hour before the lights do. By the time the lights come on, I'm right where I need to be. I did calibrate via the drop checker. Only way to go IMO. When I first started I didn't use a checker and did the testing and math thing. A drop checker is way easier.


eggcellent. Thank you for this response!


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Just for ease of finding, here is a thread I created originally to see if anyone had any idea how to remedy the leaking issues I was having with my 6 month old Clippard solenoid. It quickly turned into a great source of info for anyone who was thinking about purchasing a Burkert and putting it together themselves. If you didn't know you CAN purchase a Burkert with the DIN cable connector and power cable attached (from AP.com I believe) but their Burkert has Viton seals. There is nothing wrong with Viton seals but since I was going to be buying this thing and hopefully not buying one for a long time I wanted the best. The best Burkert solenoid has Buna-n seals which are more compatible with co2 and have a much higher chance of not having issues becoming brittle and failing in the long run. 

Once again with the help of LeftC I was directed to a site where I could purchase either a Stainless Steel Burkert or a Brass Burkert (the one I purchased, couldn't justify spending the money on the SS as the brass model will work great and I think adds a cool off set to the chrome pieces on that specific co2 system) and either a DIN power cord connector with no varistor or a cord connector w/varistor (think of it like a surge protector for the solenoid). You would also need to supply a 18/3 power cord which is what the Burkert calls for. You can get a 18/3 power cord online, at your local home improvement center and/or most CPU's use this size. I was at work at the time and didn't feel like ordering the power cord online and paying extra for shipping and also having to wait for it since my Clippard was bad and I was turning the co2 off and on by hand (gets old real quick). So I decided to cannibalize the Clippard which has a 16/3 cord that is slightly larger overall diameter than the 18/3 cord. I did this and tried to hook it up. When I did plug it in I was rewarded with the led power indicator turning on and a very nice and crisp "click" that is associated when the solenoid opens. 

I believe having to hook up the DIN power cord connector and the associated power cord turns off a lot of people. Were in a "plug and play" world and extra work is usually not something people consider a bonus. I kind of enjoyed it because I had put everything else in the system part by part and this was the final piece of the puzzle. Let me tell you, this is coming from a guy with pretty decent (IMO) mechanical/handy man skills, putting together the solenoid is a snap once you get over having to do it. I took some pics and also linked an excellent photo writeup (in the supplied link at the top of the page) by another member over at the Barr Report.


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Here are some pics/descriptions/prices of what I am working with. 

First my home system that is on a 37g. VTS-253A (purchased for ~$40 on Ebay) first DSR I purchased, not too much to look at but has been rock steady since day one. I cant even tell you how many bottles I have drained to the last drop with this regulator.

Next is my Clippard solenoid (purchased from a member on the forum ~$15). This is an American made model and hasn't given me any trouble, Only time will tell. 

Then we move down to the needle valve. This is a Swagelok SS-4MG model (~$25 purchased this valve from a member on here). All I had to do was go to my local Swagelok retailer with the valve and they provided me with the tube fittings to use it in line in the fashion I wanted. This is a very accurate and precise valve. Again, I have never messed with "lesser valves" because of all the stories I read during the building process for the system where someone bought a cheapy only to replace it with one like this. Very happy with it. Not really much to mess up/go wrong here. 

Not going to say much about the V8 splash bubble counter. It speaks for itself. 

I have co2 being diffused into my XP1. I used to just run it into the intake but once I read about needle wheels and those devices I purchased an Iwaki MD-10L (Ebay ~40 new) to put pre-XP1 in order to chop up the co2 before entry to the filter and also give the flow more torque, if you know what im saying. I purchased the Iwaki MD-10L because it is closely matched to the advertised flow rate of the XP1. Been using it for a few years with no problems, good product. 

I think its worth mentioning the drop checker too since they are part of a compete Co2 system. On this tank I have a Cal aqua Oracle (~$50 shipped). This thing is seriously hefty for an ornate piece of glassware. You do not need about droppin this on the ground but on only the hardest of surfaces. 

Pics of my home Co2 system. 

































Now on to my work system that is on an ADA 60-p.

The regulator is a Concoa that I again purchased from Ebay (~$5). I got his from the same seller who I purchaed the Victor from knowing that these DSR's were a grat deal and that I would use more in the future. This time I purchased this regulator and another for $40. I sold the other regulator so I pretty much only paid $5 for this beautiful Chrome plated beast. Same can be said for this DSR as I said about the Victor, its bullet proof! More of a looker for sure but thats my opinion. 

Moving on we have the Burkert solenoid (~$70) and used the Clippard cable on. Only been using it for a few weeks but so far so good. I certianly runs quite a bit cooler than any Clippard I have used in the past. 

For precise control I have an Ideal 52 series needle valve (~$110). This was a super cool opportunity that I had that was presented to me by again, LeftC. He contacted Ideal and inquired about a small production run of chrome plated valves. I was lucky enough to have the disposable income at the time and have been enjoying it ever since. Much more aesthetically pleasing than the Swagelok and also more precise.

For co2 measurement I have a Do Aqua Music counter (~$35 shipped from ADG). It is certainly an aestitic piece, it looks great but also works very well too. I broke my first one during maintenence so now this one is in the cabinet and I never have to mess with it. 

The Co2 is diffused by a Cal Aqua inline diffuser that I traded for some plants for. It is on the output/return hose of the Eheim 2217 that filters the tank. Good diffuser but the atomizers are very intriguing that have just been made available to us. Certainly not as good looking as the glass Cal aqua but it's on the back of the tank and the atomizer could easily be places in the cabinet. 

The drop checker here is a Cal Aqua nano drop checker ~$40 shipped). Cant say much about it. Works great, is not an eye sore. Does as advertised. 

Pics of the work system.


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Comon folks let's take some pics and see what your set ups are like. 

Merry Christmas.


----------



## rickztahone (Jul 20, 2009)

Is anyone selling Berkert 6011's already pre -made? I would like a back up for my clippard. Wiring it myself puts me off


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

rickztahone said:


> Is anyone selling Berkert 6011's already pre -made? I would like a back up for my clippard. Wiring it myself puts me off


Unfortunately not. If you have some time go through the links I provided or search "burkert" in this the equipment forum and you will find the thread I created in which you will fond all the info you would need on these solenoids. 

Also don't be scared to wire one up. Take the time to read the info and photowriteup over at the Barr report. A 10 year old could look at that guide and put the power cable on. 

Then if you still don't think you can do it you can buy all the parts you need, send them to me then I'll send it back to you assembled if you want.


----------



## tusk (Jan 30, 2006)

Yeah, DON'T sweat the wiring. SUPER easy.


----------



## rickztahone (Jul 20, 2009)

bsmith said:


> Unfortunately not. If you have some time go through the links I provided or search "burkert" in this the equipment forum and you will find the thread I created in which you will fond all the info you would need on these solenoids.
> 
> Also don't be scared to wire one up. Take the time to read the info and photowriteup over at the Barr report. A 10 year old could look at that guide and put the power cable on.
> 
> Then if you still don't think you can do it you can buy all the parts you need, send them to me then I'll send it back to you assembled if you want.





tusk said:


> Yeah, DON'T sweat the wiring. SUPER easy.


i'll take both your words for it. I haven't gone through all the threads you linked but what ballpark are we talking when it's all said and done?


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

rickztahone said:


> i'll take both your words for it. I haven't gone through all the threads you linked but what ballpark are we talking when it's all said and done?


The brass solenoid with din cord connector w/varistor shipped is right at $65 shipped. Again you can cannibalize a CPU powercord and use that ir go to your local Lowes home depot ir other hardware store for a 18/3 power cord. They shouldn't be more then $4. 

Or you could do like I did and use the Clippard power cord (my Clippard fried/leaked after only 6 months) which is a 16/3 power cord that is slightly larger then the 18/3 cord. It takes a bit more finesse and time but it works just the same.


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

Great pictures of awesome set ups people have come up with.
At this point, I think I want to go with a double stage regulator like the Concoa.
The wiring for the Burkert solenoid looks so easy thanks to the pictures provided on the link.
Let's see more of your rigs.

E


----------



## majstor76 (Jun 11, 2010)

Since not living in country where parts are easily obtainable i had a lots problems with building co2 setup but im finaly getting close to finishing it. Only that remains is better bubble counter.
Setup consist of

20 lb Messer (German gas company) tank (second hand)
Italian ODL co2 beer regulator (new)
German Bavaria Fluidtec solenoid (new, from ebay)
Swagelok SS-4 metering valve (second hand,from ebay)

All in all, cost war about 220$. Its working nice, no problems. Heart of every co2 setup is metering valve, if you miss there youll have lots of problems


----------



## herns (May 6, 2008)

Julii Cory said:


> If you were to build the ideal CO2 regulator kit, what would be your regulator of choice, solenoid, and needle valve?
> 
> Since I can't afford to buy the regulator kit of my choice, I could probably build my own. Here is what I would use:
> 
> ...


I had mine for about $205 total.

Victor VTS253A-320 brand new
Burkert 6011
Ideal Valve 
Swagelok Brass Fittings




























I have Concoa that I will be posting to S n S next week For sale.


----------



## rickztahone (Jul 20, 2009)

great builds! here's mine:


----------



## Hyzer (Mar 9, 2010)

I highly recommend building your own. I've learned quite a bit by putting my first system together, and I feel confident in the hardware. Darkblade48 was a lot of help.

Dog collar "security straps", as those Concoa dualies are quite heavy. Next time I'm waiting until I find black colored collars.

10lb. aluminum cylinder
-*Concoa 212 series regulator *
-1/4" hex nipple
-1/4" to 1/8" reducing coupling
-1/8" hex nipple
-*Burkert 6013A solenoid*
-1/8" 90 degree street elbow
-1/8" hex nipple
-*Swagelok SS-31RF2 metering valve*
-1/8" NPT to 3/16" barb


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

good work everyone!

i just put this one together yesterday:


----------



## rickztahone (Jul 20, 2009)

It seems that Berkert is the way to go


----------



## herns (May 6, 2008)

rickztahone said:


> It seems that Berkert is the way to go


I'm thru with Clippard Solenoid. I had mine that has been leaking for less than a month of use and it was brand new. There is a thread somewhere here that talks about Clippard flaws. They are much cheaper than Burkert but if you a want a very good quality, I recommend Burkert w/ buna seal. Some users had their Clippard running without problem though.


----------



## herns (May 6, 2008)

rickztahone said:


> great builds! here's mine:


Nice work! 
What type of check valve did you use between the bubble counters and the metering valves?


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

Awesome set ups!!! I think Concoa or Victor, and Burkert are the way to go. I already have a NV-55 but I think I want to get another one to run two tanks.
When it comes to needle valves being used, I see the NV-55, Ideal, and Swagelok, are there any others? I also never thought that such a rig would tip the tank over and therefore requiring straps, but yeah, it makes sense. I would have to think about how to better balance mine when I build it, or rest it against something.

I am buying my Concoa today! Does anybody have any extra NV-55 for sale? or I'm going with Jason.

Sweet set ups guys!!

E


----------



## rickztahone (Jul 20, 2009)

herns said:


> I'm thru with Clippard Solenoid. I had mine that has been leaking for less than a month of use and it was brand new. There is a thread somewhere here that talks about Clippard flaws. They are much cheaper than Burkert but if you a want a very good quality, I recommend Burkert w/ buna seal. Some users had their Clippard running without problem though.


So far my Clippard solenoid has been great. i want the Berkert as a back up just in case. I am really not a DIY when it comes to things like that and i was going to ask a fellow member to make me one and pay him for it. If i do get the Burkert it will definitely be with the buna seals. 



herns said:


> Nice work!
> What type of check valve did you use between the bubble counters and the metering valves?


I have a total of 6 brass clippard check valves. 3 under the JBJ's and 3 closer to the diffusers. 


Julii Cory said:


> Awesome set ups!!! I think Concoa or Victor, and Burkert are the way to go. I already have a NV-55 but I think I want to get another one to run two tanks.
> When it comes to needle valves being used, I see the NV-55, Ideal, and Swagelok, are there any others? I also never thought that such a rig would tip the tank over and therefore requiring straps, but yeah, it makes sense. I would have to think about how to better balance mine when I build it, or rest it against something.
> 
> I am buying my Concoa today! Does anybody have any extra NV-55 for sale? or I'm going with Jason.
> ...


Jason is the man to speak to


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Julii Cory said:


> Awesome set ups!!! I think Concoa or Victor, and Burkert are the way to go. I already have a NV-55 but I think I want to get another one to run two tanks.
> When it comes to needle valves being used, I see the NV-55, Ideal, and Swagelok, are there any others? I also never thought that such a rig would tip the tank over and therefore requiring straps, but yeah, it makes sense. I would have to think about how to better balance mine when I build it, or rest it against something.
> 
> I am buying my Concoa today! Does anybody have any extra NV-55 for sale? or I'm going with Jason.
> ...


parker also makes nice metering valves. they're harder to come by at a reasonable price though. there are also a number of 2-stage regulators that you can use. i'm using a matheson. you certainly are not just limited to victor or concoa.


----------



## Hyzer (Mar 9, 2010)

Julii Cory said:


> I also never thought that such a rig would tip the tank over and therefore requiring straps, but yeah, it makes sense. I would have to think about how to better balance mine when I build it, or rest it against something.


 It does stand up on it's own, but it does not take much to push it over with such a heavy regulator. If I had not elbowed that gigantic metering valve it would have been even more sketchy.

That being said, I think I would strap in any CO2 tank I had for peace of mind. I went to a shop where the guy had it sitting on the outside edge of the tank stand, unsecured, and close to the path of customers... :icon_mad:


----------



## WRabbit (Dec 16, 2010)

Hyzer said:


> -*Burkert 6013A solenoid*


Can you provide a source for this and what is the difference between it and the 6011?

Jim


----------



## Hyzer (Mar 9, 2010)

WRabbit said:


> Can you provide a source for this and what is the difference between it and the 6011?
> 
> Jim


I bought all of my CO2 items on E bay.The 6013 is a larger, higher wattage version than the 6011. It is 8 watts vs 4, which also means that it gets quite hot. Other than that, they do the same thing.

I would opt for the 6011 if you have a chance to get one. They also make a lower wattage 6013... I think 6 watts. I was too impatient. If you wait it out, there are some killer deals on better items.

Although it has worked just fine for the past few months, the heat makes me a bit nervous.


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

This is an interesting and informative thread on the Barr Report regarding Burkert solenoids:
http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...noids-with-Buna-seals-...-available-very-soon
Buna seals are recommended as being better for CO2 use, and you want the 6011 with Buna seal, as there is also a 6011 with Viton seal.

E


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

OoglyBoogly said:


> Anyways. This is the regulator that I picked up:
> 
> Airgas E12-244D


Hi OoglyBoogly,

How did you do with the regulator ? I am asking b/c today I bought a new AIR PRODUCTS E12-244B350 chrome plated two stage regulator with a new stainless steel CGA-320 nut and nipple for it as well.


----------



## aman74 (Feb 19, 2007)

OoglyBoogly said:


> I'm more comfortable thinking that I put some effort into learning about regulators and scored a $300-$400 dual stage regulator for <$50.


Where can one get 3-400 dollar regulators for 50 bucks? Sure, there are good deals, but ebay is the free market at work and prices are usually pretty consistent.



> p.s. barrreport.com has a nice ongoing thread about co2 regulators where people update it with ebay deals where people have good prices on various dual stage regulators


Have the link? There are several ongoing one's over there and I'm not sure which has the deal updates.

Thanks


----------



## bradac56 (Feb 18, 2008)

{ http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/6470-Dual-Stage-Regulators } This is Left_C's thread that used to be hear before the forum admins lost there minds.

Ebay is where most everyone gets there dual stages (I do) you have to really work it but I've bought some really nice dual regs for less than $80.

Victor, Concoa, and Matheson are all top notch dual reg's that I see on e-bay right now for $50 to $80.

- Brad


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

So I finally built my "ideal CO2 regulator" and here is what I went with:

A Concoa two stage regulator
A Burkert solenoid with Buna seal
LED DIN connector with no varistor
Fabco NV-55 needle valve with clippard check valve
Swagelok pipe fittings

The Concoa regulator is a monster and heavy piece but lucky for me, there is no chance of tipping the tank, unless you really try. I also like the looks of it, shiny and massive, built to last forever.

I did the wiring on the Burkert LED DIN, it wasn't difficult, I just didn't have a computer power cable laying around, and I didn't want to buy one either. There was an e-waste recycling day in my community yesterday and I got 3 cables for free!! I did the wiring last night.

I used a stainless steel Swagelok reducer 1/4 male NPT to 1/8 male NPT to attach the solenoid to the regulator body and I attached the needle valve to the solenoid using a stainless steel Swagelok elbow 1/8 male NPT. By the way, the needle valve I got from Jason and had it machined to 1/8 female NPT. At some point, I may upgrade to an Ideal needle valve, but I'm happy with this one for the moment.

I used Swagelok PTFE-Free pipe thread sealant on all threads.

This is going on my new shiny #20 cylinder which is stuck frozen somewhere in Kansas, it will get here sometime next week UPS says.

And now, here are some pictures I took with my phone. Enjoy!!!

E


----------



## yikesjason (Jul 2, 2008)

Where did you have the fabco machined for the 1/8? I have seen one other person do it as well. How much room is there for the threads?

In about a month I should be getting fabco's new needle valve with 1/8 ports. I am interested to see how it looks.


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

yikesjason said:


> Where did you have the fabco machined for the 1/8? I have seen one other person do it as well. How much room is there for the threads?
> 
> In about a month I should be getting fabco's new needle valve with 1/8 ports. I am interested to see how it looks.


I have a friend who works at a machine shop and he did it for me, there is only room for about 5 threads but that was enough to seal and it is also strong enough that it's not going to break.

I'm also curious to see what the new needle valves look like. Post a picture as soon as you get the first one.

E


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

Nice built Cory.


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

barbarossa4122 said:


> Nice built Cory.


Thanks barbarossa!

I know you are building yours, let's see it. I know you went for the Ideal valve, that it's a nice one. Eventually, I'll upgrade but for now, I'm ok with the Fabco. Now, I need to grow a nice looking tank.

Post pictures when you have them.

E


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

Julii Cory said:


> Thanks barbarossa!
> 
> I know you are building yours, let's see it. I know you went for the Ideal valve, that it's a nice one. Eventually, I'll upgrade but for now, I'm ok with the Fabco. Now, I need to grow a nice looking tank.
> 
> ...


I only have one Ideal for now and I need 3. But, I am sticking with the Fabco 55s right now. This is a pic with my 10g set up:









This my second set up which runs a 55g and a 30g. The Concoa will be replace by a brand new Matheson 8-320 that came from the factory set up for CO2. It is one of their tri-gas regulators. It has a CGA-320 CO2 fitting.










Still a work in progress but, for now the 2 set ups do the job. I want to get the Ideal needle Valves with 1/8" FPT and vernier metering handle and soon my set ups will look like this:


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

@barbarossa - I have to say that your Victor regulator was my inspiration to build mine. I saw the picture posted on page 1 but I did not know who it belonged to. I wanted to go with the stainless steel Burkert solenoid and the stainless steel Ideal valve with the vernier handle, but that would have made for a really expensive set up, the Swagelok pipe fittings were already expensive enough but I wanted to use as few fittings as possible.
I still think that your Victor set up is the nicest I have ever seen.

Thanks for sharing your pictures.

E


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

Julii Cory said:


> @barbarossa - I have to say that your Victor regulator was my inspiration to build mine. I saw the picture posted on page 1 but I did not know who it belonged to. I wanted to go with the stainless steel Burkert solenoid and the stainless steel Ideal valve with the vernier handle, but that would have made for a really expensive set up, the Swagelok pipe fittings were already expensive enough but I wanted to use as few fittings as possible.
> I still think that your Victor set up is the nicest I have ever seen.
> 
> Thanks for sharing your pictures.
> ...


I wish the set up on page one was mine but, it is not Julii Cory. I am working to built one just like that. The Ideal NVs will most likely cost me around $300.00. I have 3 new regulators (Air Products, Matheson 8-320 and Victor 453b) and two used (Victor 253a and Concoa 212) , 2 Burkert and tubbing. I need to buy Swagelok fittings, check valves and bubble counters.


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

My new toy.......brand new Matheson 8-320.










These two will be for sale soon:

Concoa 212-used *SOLD*









Victor 253A-used


----------



## herns (May 6, 2008)

Is that an unfinish assembly of 235A? I couldnt find a solenoid after 6011.

Those Burkert are awesome. Mine has been running for 2 mos. now. 9HR straight every day without leaks or overheating issue.


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

herns said:


> Is that an unfinish assembly of 235A? I couldnt find a solenoid after 6011.
> 
> Those Burkert are awesome. Mine has been running for 2 mos. now. 9HR straight every day without leaks or overheating issue.


Hi herns,

This is the Victor 253a with the Burkert 6011 installed. I used it for 5 weeks and it works great. I like the Victor a lot and I am really thinking about not selling it but, what am I going to do with 5 regulators.


----------



## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

barbarossa4122 said:


> Hi herns,
> 
> This is the Victor 253a with the Burkert 6011 installed. I used it for 5 weeks and it works great. I like the Victor a lot and I am really thinking about not selling it but, what am I going to do with 5 regulators.


Set up more tanks, of course  .


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

jeff5614 said:


> set up more tanks, of course  .


lol! No.


----------



## Julii Cory (Feb 24, 2010)

barbarossa4122 said:


> Hi herns,
> 
> This is the Victor 253a with the Burkert 6011 installed. I used it for 5 weeks and it works great. I like the Victor a lot and I am really thinking about not selling it but, what am I going to do with 5 regulators.


I noticed that the gas flow direction on the Burkert is reversed, gas should flow from P to A. Though it may be working fine, it was engineered for gas to flow from P to A or T to P to N if you reverse it. You may want to correct that or check the Barr Report for more info. Other than that, it's a nice regulator.

E


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

Julii Cory said:


> I noticed that the gas flow direction on the Burkert is reversed, gas should flow from P to A. Though it may be working fine, it was engineered for gas to flow from P to A or T to P to N if you reverse it. You may want to correct that or check the Barr Report for more info. Other than that, it's a nice regulator.
> 
> E


I know. Took the pic before I switched the Burkert around. Lol, I knew someone will notice that.


----------



## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

If anyone is interested in a used tested and working Victor HPT 500 please pm me.


----------

