# Co2 Regulator w/o Check Valve?



## WickedOdie (Aug 15, 2015)

Do I need a check valve for my co2 regulator? I've ordered some stainless steel ones, but the plastic ones i'm making due with just don't work good and keep slowing my flow.

Do I actually need a check valve? All science points to the tube maintaining pressure once the solenoid closes.

What is your take on it?


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## sohankpatel (Jul 10, 2015)

Yes, the co2 will dissolve into the water and create a siphon that will suck water down to the regulator if you dont have some kind of check valve. I got some viton/kynar valves and they are amazing, you can request them for free from Ark-Plas.


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## latchdan (Sep 7, 2007)

Yeah I have 2 check valves and water always gets through the first one, but not the second. Have yet to find a quality one yet. Bought some s/s ones but they are clogged and don't work so I'll have to return them.


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## WickedOdie (Aug 15, 2015)

It's not going to go passed the solenoid though. The bubble counter is on the Milwaukee itself and it's full of water... Will it cause the bubble counter to pressurize and explode?


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

It really depends on the length of your tubing but if you have 5+ feet then I can't see water flowing fast enough where it reaches your regulator. By the time your Co2 keeps in, it will push that water back. But! Use a inline check valve anyways so you won't have to wait for the Co2 to push back the water. 

Some of the higher end stainless-steel parts will work with water or air. Eg - SMC VDW, Parker HR


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## Argus (May 22, 2013)

I've seen water in the tubes. So far Atomic Check Valves have worked well. 

GLA systems have a check valve between the bubble counter and the regulator. So, I put the Atomic near the inline diffuser.


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## FatherLandDescendant (Jul 24, 2014)

WickedOdie said:


> It's not going to go passed the solenoid though. The bubble counter is on the Milwaukee itself and it's full of water... Will it cause the bubble counter to pressurize and explode?


At the water pressures we run it shouldn't, should just be a refill on the BC so hope your not running mineral oil. Though it can push the water into the solenoid plunger well, and making it that far could allow mineral deposits to build up and plug the manifold, though this would take significant time.


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## Dantrasy (Sep 9, 2013)

Try the Tunze check valve. Bullet proof imo.


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## flight50 (Apr 17, 2012)

Many say protect your investment and protect your solenoid/regulator. Why chance it. Get one with a low crack pressure and the co2 will flow freely. I have had water get past the checks before but nothing ever really happened. Now I have triple redundancy. I purchase the highly rated simple plastic check valve from Marine Depot, the JBJ bubble counter has its so called check and I have a metal screw in check valve from Pneumadyne. I use black co2 tubing so I don't know if water is getting pass my first check so I have backups.


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## bereninga (Mar 18, 2006)

I wouldn't take the chance. Check valves (most) are cheap anyway.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Second that, odd things can and do happen. I once (note once) let a CO2 tank go dry for a few days and the resultant on/off solenoid cycle filled the entire system from regulator to diffuser w/ water..
And this was w/ 2 cheap check valves..
Coincidentally a few months later I lost my Victor to a bad HP seat..

Lately I've had better luck w/ those globe type valves you can get..
most prefer the disc type..














> Stainless spring design assures reliable prevention of backflow and siphoning Check valve has minimal impact on air pump and CO2 injection applications Elegant in shape. Easy to disassemble for cleaning...


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## piggy82 (Oct 25, 2015)

WickedOdie said:


> Do I need a check valve for my co2 regulator? I've ordered some stainless steel ones, but the plastic ones i'm making due with just don't work good and keep slowing my flow.
> 
> Do I actually need a check valve? All science points to the tube maintaining pressure once the solenoid closes.
> 
> What is your take on it?


I think the more the better, even if those cheap-as-hell plastic in-lines from petsmart/petco would be orders better than nothing...


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

WickedOdie said:


> Do I need a check valve for my co2 regulator? I've ordered some stainless steel ones, but the plastic ones i'm making due with just don't work good and keep slowing my flow.
> 
> Do I actually need a check valve? All science points to the tube maintaining pressure once the solenoid closes.
> 
> What is your take on it?


Should we use a check valve in our co2 tubing so water doesn't flow back the tube and get into the works of the regulator?

Sounds like a no-brainer. If you're not using a Milwaukee, it's a good idea. I usually use two in fact. If you have a Milwaukee, it really probably doesn't matter. At the place we would need it the most, you already don't have one. Your water or oil or whatever stuck in that bubble counter, is already in full contact with your needle valve and the only thing stopping it from getting into your regulator is the solenoid. Yay, Milwaukee!


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

You should always use a check valve. 


-Alan


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

I have most definitely had water back siphon up the tubing. However, I have always used check valves and yet to have it go past one. Unlike most, I haven't had valves fail. I would hate to eat my words and should probably get some new ones but I used a SS from GLA and a plastic one from ADA, plus my bubble counter has a built in one so that may be why mine have failed, I just don't know one has failed but it has worked well for many years. Even using cheapo ones from Petco work fine and part of the beauty of that is you think they will fail so you replace them, even though I have only had one actually fail on me.


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## WickedOdie (Aug 15, 2015)

oldpunk78 said:


> Should we use a check valve in our co2 tubing so water doesn't flow back the tube and get into the works of the regulator?
> 
> Sounds like a no-brainer. If you're not using a Milwaukee, it's a good idea. I usually use two in fact. If you have a Milwaukee, it really probably doesn't matter. At the place we would need it the most, you already don't have one. Your water or oil or whatever stuck in that bubble counter, is already in full contact with your needle valve and the only thing stopping it from getting into your regulator is the solenoid. Yay, Milwaukee!


It is indeed a Milwaukee. 

I've had it running for 3 days without a check valve, there has been no water flow back into the bubble counter. I'm waiting for some stainless steel ones to come in the mail. Everything takes forever in Canada.

The reason I stopped using the plastic ones, was because they would hinder my flow. It would be good one day, then the next day the flow would need to be adjusted. And this would repeat on a daily basis. Since I took the check valve off, I haven't had to adjust my flow at all.


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## flight50 (Apr 17, 2012)

WickedOdie said:


> The reason I stopped using the plastic ones, was because they would hinder my flow. It would be good one day, then the next day the flow would need to be adjusted. And this would repeat on a daily basis. Since I took the check valve off, I haven't had to adjust my flow at all.


This is not a check valve issue, its a Milwuakee issue. The needle valves and the solenoid are said to be the two most unreliable components of the system. The valve floats which means that the pressure it provide may need adjusting sometimes. If the regulator can not release a consistent flow of co2, it is the flawed design of the regulator. They are better than diy co2 for sure as its an introduction to pressurized co2 on a budget. I still have mine from 7 years ago as a backup only. I have made a hybrid out of it now for it's teamed up with my aquariumplants electronic regulator. Simple checks valves have no moving parts. A rubber filament has a certain crack pressure to release what ever is pushing on the other side, that's it. If the force is not strong or consistent enough, the flow will be interrupted.


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## WickedOdie (Aug 15, 2015)

flight50 said:


> This is not a check valve issue, its a Milwuakee issue. The needle valves and the solenoid are said to be the two most unreliable components of the system. The valve floats which means that the pressure it provide may need adjusting sometimes. If the regulator can not release a consistent flow of co2, it is the flawed design of the regulator. They are better than diy co2 for sure as its an introduction to pressurized co2 on a budget. I still have mine from 7 years ago as a backup only. I have made a hybrid out of it now for it's teamed up with my aquariumplants electronic regulator. Simple checks valves have no moving parts. A rubber filament has a certain crack pressure to release what ever is pushing on the other side, that's it. If the force is not strong or consistent enough, the flow will be interrupted.


That may be so, but it was the check valve. I built my own regulator, it did the same thing. So I purchased the Milwaukee and hooked it up and to my avail, my original regulator wasn't a poor design. So far with no check valve in it, it's running fine. I'll put a new check valve in when I get them. But till then I'm going to have to chance it without them.


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## Joshvivs (Oct 30, 2015)

Check valves are relatively cheap. Are they necessary? Probably not. But it is cheaper to add one, or preferably two, than replace your co2 tank.


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## WickedOdie (Aug 15, 2015)

Joshvivs said:


> Check valves are relatively cheap. Are they necessary? Probably not. But it is cheaper to add one, or preferably two, than replace your co2 tank.


They are about 5 bucks a piece, I've gone through 3 in a week. One of them was an ADA, which is a little more pricey. 15 dollars a week isn't viable.


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## shift (Jan 7, 2013)

I don't have one and I have never had an issue. I have never had water back siphon down. I guess my solonoid creates a good enough seal to hold any back pressure


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