# Bridgelux EB Gen 2



## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

They kicked the efficiency of this thing up to 11 in the new gen.

https://www.bridgelux.com/sites/def... EB Series Gen2 Data Sheet 20171020 Rev A.pdf

180lm/W on the 5700K model. 2460 lumens at 700ma and 19.5V so 13.6 watts.

To put it in perspective the ADA Aquasky 601 is 30W and puts out that many lumens.

So basically 2 56cm strips put out as much light as the Aquasky 602 which is the dual version but at less wattage than the 601.

Also the strips do not require a heatsink so you can effectively get 3 pieces of acrylic glued together to match the look of the Aquasky and attach them directly on with no issues. 2 strips on a 2ch 24v driver would just need a 24v 2a wall wart to power up. Of course no dimming but i don't see the need.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Never seen a hot and cold V(f) listed before..


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## Lingwendil (Nov 16, 2012)

Minimum of ~80 CRI, and a maximum CCT of 5700, so If you don't need it too cool looking it could be a viable option for some, although my experience dictates that the difference between a CRI of 80 and something like a 90-95 is pretty noticeable. 

Efficiency looks very good though, would be very nice for people with fishrooms that want lighting at each tank without going broke with poor efficiency overhead lighting.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Lingwendil said:


> Minimum of ~80 CRI, and a maximum CCT of 5700, so If you don't need it too cool looking it could be a viable option for some, although my experience dictates that the difference between a CRI of 80 and something like a 90-95 is pretty noticeable.
> 
> Efficiency looks very good though, would be very nice for people with fishrooms that want lighting at each tank without going broke with poor efficiency overhead lighting.


Plugged the curve into SPECTRA..


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> myData BridgeluxEB56.txt [120°] x1
> ----------------------------------------
> ...


as usual............


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> myData BridgeluxEB56.txt [120°] x1
> PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Blue (460-480nm) [120°] x0.3
> ...





> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> myData BridgeluxEB56.txt [120°] x1
> PhilipsLumileds Luxeon-Rebel Blue (460-480nm) [120°] x0.3
> ...


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Plugged the curve into SPECTRA..
> 
> 
> as usual............


4810K makes no sense. I have owned quite a bit of 5600-5700K Bridgelux stuff and they always look very close to advertised color temp. That 4810K is too warm.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

If I got it right.. 14% would be the error percent.. 
For hand plotting data points on a published curve.. not too bad..
I trust the published curves but you have thickness of lines ect...
And to see if it isn't like 50 CRI..

My point is that it exhibits the "usual" lower CRI missing colors..
Honestly that is evident visually from the published spectrum.


Trends are the important thing, and how to "fix" it..

would be interesting to real life test some of these for manuf. variation..
Seneye won't cut it..

NOTE: Takes only 182mW of Royal Blue to adj to K "spec"...though that also raises CRI at D65 to 93.. way out of spec..


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

i've considerd these for a fishroom. I dunno if I would use one for a display tank though. if I was doing a display luxeon sunplus are only marginally more expensive per watt and you gain a lot more CRI.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Kampo said:


> i've considerd these for a fishroom. I dunno if I would use one for a display tank though. if I was doing a display luxeon sunplus are only marginally more expensive per watt and you gain a lot more CRI.


Sunplus doesn't come in the same package though and it requires a heatsink. This does not and you can make yourself an ADA Aquasky copy quite easily for an iwagumi. On an iwagumi I find high CRI leds to be completely useless as all that's in there is a single green carpet plant.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> Sunplus doesn't come in the same package though and it requires a heatsink. This does not and you can make yourself an ADA Aquasky copy quite easily for an iwagumi. On an iwagumi I find high CRI leds to be completely useless as all that's in there is a single green carpet plant.


Aquasky's run about 7000K if I am not mistaken.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Aquasky's run about 7000K if I am not mistaken.


Yeah but ADA must do something with their diodes because greens have a crisper look to them than say the Finnex Ray II which is also 7000K. I think the Aquasky has more green.

Anywho I ordered 2 strips of 5700K from Arrow as they the only ones that have it in stock. Also got the HLG-40H-54A as well. Going to see how it works out on a 60P I have. Now I just need to find those waterproof barrel connectors so I can connect the strips to the HLG cleanly and also the 3 prong power cable to the HLG on the other side.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

gus6464 said:


> Sunplus doesn't come in the same package though and it requires a heatsink. This does not and you can make yourself an ADA Aquasky copy quite easily for an iwagumi. On an iwagumi I find high CRI leds to be completely useless as all that's in there is a single green carpet plant.


what about the fish? fish look way better under good light.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> Yeah but ADA must do something with their diodes because greens have a crisper look to them than say the Finnex Ray II which is also 7000K. I think the Aquasky has more green.


They have a "G" version don't they?
W/ more pure green LED...but it looks like it's phosphor enhanced..so may help.
AQUASKY G - Advanced LED grow light | ADA - LIGHTING SYSTEM
Adding green doesn't move the K needle much...Just lowers CRI..

got a mystery for you..
http://spectra.1023world.net/
Has ADA lights in their menu:


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> ADA AQUASKY(2012) 601 [80°] x1
> ----------------------------------------
> ...


Has "peak blue" at 470nm...
New one at 440nm









Imported that into SPECTRA
PEAK blue at 439-ish


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> myData ADAGreen.txt [120°] x1
> ----------------------------------------
> ...


http://www.adana.co.jp/en/contents/products/na_lighting/aquasky_g/index.html


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

that all said above, I tihnk i'm going to order 2 24in 5k ones to try in my fish room with a cheap chinese driver. I"m not loving my 12v led strips lately, so been waffeling on alternative options.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> They have a "G" version don't they?
> W/ more pure green LED...but it looks like it's phosphor enhanced..so may help.
> AQUASKY G - Advanced LED grow light | ADA - LIGHTING SYSTEM
> Adding green doesn't move the K needle much...Just lowers CRI..
> ...


Pretty high CRI for the Aquasky as the original has been around for many years now. 80+ CRI on a cool white was not a thing back then from not even the big players. Something else must be going on.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Back then they only used 8 patches for CRI..r1-8 I believe. Pretty sure the saturated colors (R9-12) are "new" as well as "foliage" and the 2 skin tones..
Not to mention you can use different "reference K's"..

Best show the ones..
Memories fading daily..










Still.. would be relatively high compared to the 70-80's of the past..
don't know about the Ra patch in Spectra..
R(a) Average of orig 8..I believe.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

I found these units from meanwell. APC-35

APC-35-MEAN WELL USA Switching Power Supply

Can take between 15-50V and puts out constant 700ma so perfect for a pair of EB strips in on and off. Also dirt cheap at 10 bucks. Picked one up as well with the EB strips.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

gus6464 said:


> I found these units from meanwell. APC-35
> 
> APC-35-MEAN WELL USA Switching Power Supply
> 
> Can take between 15-50V and puts out constant 700ma so perfect for a pair of EB strips in on and off. Also dirt cheap at 10 bucks. Picked one up as well with the EB strips.


hmm those are not half bad for a basic driver. simlar price to the chinese ac/dc drivers I was looking at.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Got them in. They are a big difference from Gen 1.

Routed 2 channels in acrylic for my Aquasky copy.









Next to EB Gen 1. So many more diodes.









And the tiny APC-35-700


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

how do you plan on cooling the strips? I know they don't require a heatsink, but I don't know how well they would do being insulated by accrylc


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Kampo said:


> how do you plan on cooling the strips? I know they don't require a heatsink, but I don't know how well they would do being insulated by accrylc


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1246985-my-homegrown-aquasky-par-data.html


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## wastewater (Apr 5, 2010)

gus6464 said:


> Got them in. They are a big difference from Gen 1.
> 
> Next to EB Gen 1. So many more diodes.
> 
> And the tiny APC-35-700


That is definitely 'quite a difference' compared to the EB Gen 1 (number of diodes). Really like the crispness and color of this light (saw your pictures in another thread). I have found the APC-35-700 driver to be a very dependable "little" workhorse (have several that have been performing faithfully for 10 hours a day, 24/7/365) for over 5 years. I've always favored the on-off thing without all the other bells & whistles (but that's just me). Nice build, and simple too! Thanks for sharing.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

wastewater said:


> That is definitely 'quite a difference' compared to the EB Gen 1 (number of diodes). Really like the crispness and color of this light (saw your pictures in another thread). I have found the APC-35-700 driver to be a very dependable "little" workhorse (have several that have been performing faithfully for 10 hours a day, 24/7/365) for over 5 years. I've always favored the on-off thing without all the other bells & whistles (but that's just me). Nice build, and simple too! Thanks for sharing.


Thanks. It's weird when I first started I was all into dimming and ramping and wifi controllers etc. Spent so much money on Typhoon, bluefish mini, ldd boards, etc. and now I just prefer simple and on and off and the least amount of channels as humanly possible. Plants and corals don't care one way or another.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Fish do.................

Actually plants/corals could care..
sun doesn't just snap on full you know.. Millions of years of evolution and gradual light has to have left a mark............


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

ramping has its place I really like it since it lets me enjoy my tanks more, you can have dim light before and after the photo period so you can see the tank.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

so ty @gus6464 your experences + Bridgelux EB Gen 2 Thermals | Rollitup led me to take the plunge, orderd 3 22in 5000k gen 2 lights ($7 vs 11 dollars per strip for 5k over 57k, fishroom is about efficency of cost so 4 bucks per tank adds up if I go this route) hooking 2 up to a APC driver. all i'm doing for mounting the lights is tossing them in a 30in peace of PVC gutter with gorrilla glue (quick easy fast and unlike hotglue takes heat fine) did a quick wire up with a strip naked and ran it for 20 min and it was just warm to the touch. so if the prototypes it works i need to figure out a method of driving 28 strips if I go that route, I see some of the "grow" builds using bridgelux ebs go constant voltage with Meanwell HLG powersupplies. from my research 19-19.5V fed to them will work out to be in the range of 700ma. heck could even use a TC420 for dimming I think.


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

This guy has an example EB strip design running 24 strips on an HLG-480H-24A. It's under "4’x4′ Grow Space Builds"
DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener

Can an HLG be dimmed similarly to LDDs like with the one in this thread?
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/1008498-manual-pwm-dimmer-ldd-h.html


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

My thinking if your powering them constant Voltage they can be dimmed like a 12v led strip of a beams work light. 

So thinking I can use a tc420 since it's within the spec voltage wise for the controller


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Need to "break up" the array and DEF. recommend resistors..
Need to use 3 channels (balanced for...balance)
Ideally using a 20V ps you can use 1/4W 1.5Ohm resistors..
Unlike the 24V example below..
which really should use 5W resistors ..2 is "closer than comfort"










YOU REALLY REALLY SHOULD USE RESISTORS..at the very least.

Note to the best of my understanding and the "accuracy" of the LED calculator..


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

HLG powersupplies allow for finetuning of voltage with a pot. if you tuned the voltage to 19.5 isn't that the same as a resistor? or does the resistor add proection to the curcuit over and above that.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Resistors are like 15 cents each... Like adds $5 to the above project..

As far as I know, but can't explain it fully.. resistors add a wee bit more protection than trying to regulate the voltage precisely...

https://resources.altium.com/pcb-de...f-youre-using-a-matching-voltage-power-supply

People have run arrays w/ out them and successfully..but like I said.. $5..


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

From what I understand from the other thread, resistors are used to limit current and prevent thermal runaway. The HLG is constant voltage and constant current (there's also an HLG-C which is CC only). So if the current is set so that the LEDs only draw a set amount of current, would it be alright to use without resistors?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

As set.. your constant current range is when you hit 20A output..(or 10-20A depending here you set it)..

Say your "source" draws 20A at 12V.. you will output 12V not 24..
Anything under 20A and your power supply will go to 24V.. (normal voltage ramp up to reach set point then stops at max voltage)

At least that is how I understand it..
At the lowest (10A) setting you will feed 416mA to the units..
If any one strip goes open..that 416mA gets redistributed to the remaining strips..ect.ect..
Total current needs to be at the set point..

Normal problem of series/parallel arrangements w/ constant current..
There is really no simple way of using constant current in series/parallel arrays..
BEST use is series strings..
simplify it for clarity..
Say you have 3 series strings and a constant current driver of 2A.
Each parallel branch will see 666mA (ASSUMING they are all electrically similar, bigger assumption than you might think)
Lose one branch (fails open) Now the 2 remaining will get 1A each.. Another fails and all 2A will go to that one..
Each time each string sees higher voltage.
Yes you can run out of voltage but then you are in constant voltage mode..

Maybe not "required" but constant current works best and simplest in single series strings..
resistor/series /parallel works "best" w/ constant voltage..

I'm not going to recommend not using the resistors..

Hope I got this right.. This "stuff" is newer to me than you might think..
Get a second opinion..


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

ok did some more reading it makes sence. I know its cheap, i'm actually more worried about the loss of efficeny


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> together, all resistors dissipate 4410 mW
> together, the diodes dissipate 163800 mW
> total power dissipated by the array is 168210 mW
> the array draws current of 8400 mA from the source.


Adj ps to 20V..
4.4W of waste out of 168W...2.6%.. ?
1.5 Ohm 1/2W resistors..


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Adj ps to 20V..
> 4.4W of waste out of 168W...2.6%.. ?
> 1.5 Ohm 1/2W resistors..


yeah yeah i know.

Bump: we really should just get a PlantedTank Discord Channel for these late night brainstorming sessions


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## thegreatdonut (Mar 16, 2018)

impressive


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

so I setup 2 prototyle Bridgelux EB 5k fishroom lights today. significantly brighter than my Mk1 lights in the room. mk1 consisted of about about 25watts of Rigid LED strips from China (one 12watt dual row warm/cool white, one RGB, one Deep Red/Blue) they worked good but got hot as hell and just didn't hold up over the past 6 months so I've been looking for alernatives. so i'm saving about 10 watts of power for more light which is awesome, ran them for 30min tonight and still warm to the touch, I just mounted them in PVC gutters. 

Now the negatives, it does not look as nice as my prior light. i had a good mix of colors on those lights so I felt it prolly had a very high CRI, the shrimp in the tank I put one of the prototypes over are defiantly not nearly as vibrant. I think i'm going to stick with it though, the Mk1 version lights were not going to last so I needed to replace them. and these are far more efficent and add much needed lgiht to the tank.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

What are your guys thoughts on mixing 1ft and 2ft on the same hlg circuit. I'm thinking there are tanks that make more sense to light with a 1 ft vs 2ft. Same voltage just different amp waiting. I suspect the 2ft strips are just a 1ft wired internally in parrell


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## Geoffrey2568 (Mar 8, 2018)

It looks like the 2 ft is two 1 ft in parallel

1 ft: 56 Diodes, 7 Series x 8 Parallel
2 ft: 112 Diodes, 7 Series x 16 Parallel
DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

ok that makes it easy. thanks!


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Is this too good to be true? $4 (digikey) for a strip that puts out 2.5K lumens? 
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-50E1000-C-A3/976-1495-ND/6236281

Four of these would be considered "high light" on a 55g tank? Really?

Also according to digikey, test current is 350mA, runs at 50* C. They are rated for 700 mA so imo these need a good heatsink unless run at lower current.

In the pictures they do not look like "high light". 

Just trying to do a level set.. or convince myself that these are 10x the value of any other led solution.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

ChrisX said:


> Is this too good to be true? $4 (digikey) for a strip that puts out 2.5K lumens?
> https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-50E1000-C-A3/976-1495-ND/6236281
> 
> Four of these would be considered "high light" on a 55g tank? Really?
> ...


the one you linked is a gen 1 light, they run a bit hotter, and not as efficent. 

For a 55 you could run 2 of these for high light.
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l1120z-57e4000-c-b3/bridgelux (5700k is prolly preferable for most but more spendy)
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l1120z-50e4000-c-b3/bridgelux (this is the color temp i'm suing, bit cheaper and cool enough)

run at 700ma i think you can get away with open air and no heatsink, if enclosed with a splash gaurd I'd mount it against a metal plate atleast just to give it some way to dump heat., mine are warm to the touch in a pvc gutter with no heatsink.


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Kampo said:


> the one you linked is a gen 1 light, they run a bit hotter, and not as efficent.
> 
> For a 55 you could run 2 of these for high light.
> https://www.arrow.com/en/products/bxeb-l1120z-57e4000-c-b3/bridgelux (5700k is prolly preferable for most but more spendy)
> ...


My only hesitation is that you said you do not prefer the color compared to your others. Do you plan to supplement them with some RGB?


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

ChrisX said:


> My only hesitation is that you said you do not prefer the color compared to your others. Do you plan to supplement them with some RGB?


mine are 5k so not the 5700k which others have used, the 5ks are cheaper. these are in a fish room, so efficency and cost is more important, I'm considering a basic "light bar" for a low light 120gallon tank though and planning just using a 5700k bar for that. the color isn't horrible, its about on par with beamswork 6500k,


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

I have initial bacterial bloom right now so water is cloudy but once it cleans in a couple of days I will take a pic so you can see the color. It's definitely not as stale looking as most cool white LEDs. I'd say the temp is like the old BML Dutch color.


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Id like to see some pics. Do you have the 5700? These are close to perfect for aquarium, much easier to wire than individual leds.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

ChrisX said:


> Id like to see some pics. Do you have the 5700? These are close to perfect for aquarium, much easier to wire than individual leds.


I have the 5700K. Light build with data.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/10-lighting/1246985-my-homegrown-aquasky-par-data.html


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