# Setting up a tank (a how to, sorta)



## FreedPenguin (Aug 2, 2011)

Great post Mordalphus! 
I am going to try this.
good step by step depiction thank you!


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> All that's left is to fill it full of water and turn on the filters! My way of filling with water without cloudiness is to put the plastic bag the substrate came in on top of the substrate, then use my filler right on top of it. This filler is a 1/4 inch airline tube hooked to my sink, and the end of it is diffused by a chunk of poret foam, and placed into a bowl.


Great idea using the bag to further increase the water spread surface area. I used everything except the bag when filling up my flourite and it still became murky. Nice step-by-step instructions!


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

When using the substrate as a 'pre-filter' of sorts like this do you notice that the canister filter gets dirty and has to be cleaned more or less frequently?

I am considering using the Azoo UGF pipes and doing something similar but since it won't be my tank (but I will be the one to maintain the canister on it) I want it to be able to go quite a while between having to open up the canister. I will be using an eheim classic 2213 most likely. On a related note would a pre-filter like the jaqno with certain media help increase the time between canister filter cleanings if need be?


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## curious_shrimp (Nov 1, 2011)

wow, i've always wanted to try the akadama soil- i have fluval stratum and ada now, but ADA soil is pain in the butt- its been cloudy water for the past 2 weeks.. omg
it will be so exciting if akadama soil works out!!


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

curious_shrimp said:


> wow, i've always wanted to try the akadama soil- i have fluval stratum and ada now, but ADA soil is pain in the butt- its been cloudy water for the past 2 weeks.. omg
> it will be so exciting if akadama soil works out!!


A lot of people on shrimpnow use akadama. If it suits your needs I don't see what the risk/worry would be about using it.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

woot one of our shrimp guru's teaching us how to setup a pro tank!


Curious tho, do vac the substrate? or not need to touch it?

Will follow this as i want to setup a shrimp tank also!


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

madness said:


> When using the substrate as a 'pre-filter' of sorts like this do you notice that the canister filter gets dirty and has to be cleaned more or less frequently?
> 
> I am considering using the Azoo UGF pipes and doing something similar but since it won't be my tank (but I will be the one to maintain the canister on it) I want it to be able to go quite a while between having to open up the canister. I will be using an eheim classic 2213 most likely. On a related note would a pre-filter like the jaqno with certain media help increase the time between canister filter cleanings if need be?



Canister gets dirty for the first day, so i fill it full of filter pads for the first day, then I switch it out to biomedia. I do have a prefilter on this canister as well, and also a purigen reactor on the return. I have the prefilter so that I don't get my big eheim clogged up (running a 2217 on this one).


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Naekuh said:


> woot one of our shrimp guru's teaching us how to setup a pro tank!
> 
> 
> Curious tho, do vac the substrate? or not need to touch it?
> ...


Do not vacuum the substrate, shrimp are not that dirty, and the filter will remove poop and excess food through the UGF. Vacuuming will remove substrate and also make a very big mess, while at the same time damaging the bacteria colonies which have made their home there.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

can we see that purigen reactor please 
Or is it that Jebo Circular container i saw in the SnS?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

This isn't the exact one, it's the grandfather to the one I just set up, but you get the idea, clear cylinder, water flows down the middle tube to the bottom, which causes the purigen to become fluidized, then the scrubbed water exits at the top.


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## ch3fb0yrdee (Oct 2, 2008)

Awesome Liam! I really like the DIY PVC UFG. If you don't mind, where did you find the PVC 1/2 connect that allows you to click the Eheim Tube to the PVC UGF?

Did you put the PVC UGF in the back covered up with Seachem Matrix to try to slow the degrading process of the Akadama Soil? I've read that Akadama Soil, and ADA AS, degrades super fast when used with an UGF. 

I'm assuming because your PVC UGF is sucking from the inside with the Seachem Matrix covering it, the inward suction will most likely leave the Akadama Soil undisturbed which should extend the live of the soil.


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

Dude we need more of these kinda of threads.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

ch3fb0yrdee said:


> Awesome Liam! I really like the DIY PVC UFG. If you don't mind, where did you find the PVC 1/2 connect that allows you to click the Eheim Tube to the PVC UGF?
> 
> Did you put the PVC UGF in the back covered up with Seachem Matrix to try to slow the degrading process of the Akadama Soil? I've read that Akadama Soil, and ADA AS, degrades super fast when used with an UGF.
> 
> I'm assuming because your PVC UGF is sucking from the inside with the Seachem Matrix covering it, the inward suction will most likely leave the Akadama Soil undisturbed which should extend the live of the soil.


The fitting is called a "1/2 inch quick connect" fitting, found at home depot. They're in with the brass plumbing fittings near the toilet aisle. They are 1/2 inch threads on one side, and the quick connect fitting on the other. The eheim intake tube fits exactly snug into it. I just used it because I didn't want to use a barbed fitting and have the ugly hose going into the tank.

i put the UGF in the back covering roughly 1/3rd of the tank in the hopes that the front part would become infested with anaerobic bacteria which would digest nitrates, and that yes the life of the substrate would be extended. 

i'm in the unique position that my tap water is basically RO (20ppm, 0gh/0kh, 6.5-7 pH), and that I don't rely entirely on the substrate to buffer my water.

So far with akadama my pH in the tank is 5.5, which is .5 degrees higher than my amazonia and africana tanks. I'm not sure what kind of shrimp I'll put back into this tank, probably CRS or CBS, maybe move all of my taiwan bee hybrids into this tank to separate them from the pure taiwan bees. So many choices!


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## ch3fb0yrdee (Oct 2, 2008)

Legit! Thanks for the info on the quick connects. I've been having problems figuring out all these connects, but your tip is super helpful. 

I know some breeders are kinda secretive about their tanks, but I was wondering what do you use to bring up your gH, since it's at 0. My guess would be Mosura Mineral Plus, but just wanted to confirm.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I use mosura mineral plus when i have it, when I don't, I use either remineraliz-p from brightwell aquatics, or kent's RO right.


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

What substrate did you use?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

jkan0228 said:


> What substrate did you use?


my first time using akadama double red line


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## gordonrichards (Jun 20, 2009)

I like the UG filter. Never attempted to do a setup like this before.
Interested in seeing how it turns out :^)

-Gordon


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## ch3fb0yrdee (Oct 2, 2008)

mordalphus said:


> I use mosura mineral plus when i have it, when I don't, I use either remineraliz-p from brightwell aquatics, or kent's RO right.


That's actually really smart. A bottle of Mosura Mineral Plus 100mL costs $15 while the alternative Kent's and Brightwells Aquatic products is more cost effective. More bang for your buck! :icon_smil 

I think I'm going to buy some to test use since I'm strap for cash...


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## ShortFin (Dec 27, 2005)

How big are the holes in the UGF? How many and what's the spacing between them?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

ShortFin said:


> How big are the holes in the UGF? How many and what's the spacing between them?


From Liam's post on Shrimp now



> As far as the UGF is, the first row (closest to the inlet) the holes are 2 inches apart, I used a 4mm drill bit. The second row (farthest from inlet) are 1 inch apart, in a hope to equalize the input throughout the entire filter. I have 3 of these homemade filters and I'm quite happy with the performance of all 3. I have had absolutely no clogs in the last 6 months, and no slowdown of performance either.


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## shrimpnmoss (Apr 8, 2011)

Is this another one?!?!? I see you're using Akadama this time. I'm going to have to check it out one of these days. We still have to hook up...got something for ya! You and Nick make me want to set up a new tank....maybe after the holidays....


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

yep, my last one I'm redoing. Don't worry though, I'm probably going to be setting up 4-5 10 gallon tanks pretty soon.


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## ch3fb0yrdee (Oct 2, 2008)

mordalphus said:


> yep, my last one I'm redoing. Don't worry though, I'm probably going to be setting up 4-5 10 gallon tanks pretty soon.


Dang, already planning on setting up new 10 gallons, crazyyy.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I kinda have to, for my business, but it doesn't break my heart having to do it


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

Sorry to be a pest but do you mind sharing the diameter of PVC pipe used?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

1/2 inch pvc


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> 1/2 inch pvc


Thanks. 

You got a patent pending on the AquarLiam UGF pipe system?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

lol, nope, free for anyone to build and use, that's why i wrote this up!


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

It was a joke. 

I finally decided to go with an Ecoxotic 5 gal. cube for the nano shrimp tank that I am putting together for my mother as a gift so I will be trying out this system on that 10"x10" tank and my Fluval Ebi as well.

Just waiting on the the tank to ship (along with two extra 4 liter buckets of Matrix since it appears that I will be going through the stuff at a high rate).

Haven't had much free time (or energy) lately but I might even switch over my empty (but filled with water and floating plants) 20H.

Stable and easy to maintain tanks are right up my (lazy) alley.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Amen man, I'm all about low maintenance. My need is out of neccessity though, I have 6 large shrimp tanks and a bunch of 10g holding tanks PLUS my 50g Oscar tank. That in conjunction with a 60 hour per week job and a small business to run leaves me with just weekends to do tank maintenance.

I hope the UGF tubes do you good!


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

After reading this I regret not using a UG setup....


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## Mr. Leg (Feb 2, 2011)

Great timing I am just about to start putting together a 48 gal tank.
Thanks


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

Mr. Leg said:


> Great timing I am just about to start putting together a 48 gal tank.
> Thanks


I think that a required disclaimer to this method is probably that these are shrimp specific tanks that prioritize shrimp health over plant growing ability. They are going to be non-planted or lightly planted.

While the UGF pipes appear to be more root tolerant than traditional UGF plates it definitely is worth considering the trade-offs depending upon what your priorities with the tank are.


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## shrimpnmoss (Apr 8, 2011)

Madness, once you go ugf with your shrimp tanks....you'll never go back...IMO best filteration system for shrimpies...

My plants also grow just fine in a tube UGF system.


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## Mr. Leg (Feb 2, 2011)

Yes thanks for the insite. I am was not going for a fully planted tank. That would have a deep root structure. Most shrimp, and a school of micro fish. 

Liam, did you use some sort of glue or epoxy to put it all together?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I didn't use any adhesive, just pushed them together, its not gonna be bearing a load or any pressure


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## ch3fb0yrdee (Oct 2, 2008)

I made on last week and I use Teflon tape to provide a water tight seal. Working excellent, thanks for showing us your DIY UGF Liam.


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

shrimpnmoss said:


> Madness, once you go ugf with your shrimp tanks....you'll never go back...IMO best filteration system for shrimpies...
> 
> My plants also grow just fine in a tube UGF system.


It wouldn't surprise me if the plants grew BETTER. The roots in combination with any sort of UGF system are just one of those long argued over issues in this hobby and the issue is sure to be raised again at some point.

The first tank that I am doing this on is for my mother and I don't trust her to screw around with the pre-filters on the intake to the canisters. I couldn't find a good looking shrimp safe pre-filter anyways.


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

I didn't get the right quick couplings (not sure how I missed that paragraph) so I will have to pick up the proper ones tommorow if possible. The rest of it came together very quickly and easily, as promised.


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## Gulfcoastguy (Nov 4, 2011)

Gonna try this out on four 10 gallon tanks I am setting up today everything finally got here so I can set them up useing matrix in the UGF and adakama for substrate may start a journal on it.


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## gordonrichards (Jun 20, 2009)

I demand more photos.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

More photos of wat


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## Kazuya (Apr 4, 2011)

Wish I would have seen this when I was setting up my first tank.
I have pvc ugf going through the whole tank.

Great illustration none the less.

Will use the same set up for my 3rd tank (hopefully).


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

gordonrichards said:


> I demand more photos.


I will try to take apart the pipe system that I have and photograph it and then do a journal like thing when I put it in just to provide a different perspective that maybe will help someone out.

I am definitely not a mechanically inclined person. As an example I was looking for a 180 degree type piece (where the UGF changes direction) and could not find one and in the pictures it did not look like a straight piece was connecting two elbows. Then at work later on I noticed a similar piece of plumbing and realized that the straight piece connecting the two elbows was just so short that the elbows were able to butt up against each other which is what makes them look like one piece.

BTW, HD sells pre-cut 24" pieces of PVC for anyone who is worried about fitting a long piece in a vehicle. I just picked up a handful of the 2' pieces and a manual hand-held PVC pipe cutter that they sell (it was hanging on the side of an end-cap at the end of the aisle).


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I thought id bump this since there has been some discussion on UGF recently


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Here's another design of ugf I've made:


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Does the bottom part of that have holes on both sides? Or just the sides facing the camera?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Both sides have holes


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Would this go into a 10g?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I don't see why not, you can cut the PVC with a hacksaw to any size


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

I was wondering what tank size you were planning on putting that one into haha.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I put that one into a 20 long


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

I noticed here, and on Zid's post, that you only put the UGF so it covers ~1/2 the tank. Is there any specific reason for this? You said you could grow longer rooted plants in the area without UGF but is there anything else besides that?

Making me seriously consider buying canister filters... and make some of these


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

i usually make it cover about 2/3rds of the tank, I leave a spot without the UGF so there will be an anaerobic area for bacteria to also remove nitrates. (nitrate removing bacteria requires an environment without oxygen to survive)


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

I hought all living things includes bacteria need oxygen in order to live?


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## coolnick (Oct 28, 2006)

Instead of using the U shape like in the first post, if you make the UGF connected at all four corners you will have an equalized pressure manifold. Not that it matters very much, but if anyone is concerned with equal flow from all sections, that's how you do it.

Very nice write-up.


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

sayurasem said:


> I hought all living things includes bacteria need oxygen in order to live?


No. All aerobic organisms need oxygen. Sure, even plants do. But anaerobic organisms will die in the presence of oxygen.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> i usually make it cover about 2/3rds of the tank, I leave a spot without the UGF so there will be an anaerobic area for bacteria to also remove nitrates. (nitrate removing bacteria requires an environment without oxygen to survive)


So having an abundance of floaters in the tank would accomplish nearly the same goal of absorbing the nitrates? Do you use floaters in your tanks as well?



coolnick said:


> Instead of using the U shape like in the first post, if you make the UGF connected at all four corners you will have an equalized pressure manifold. Not that it matters very much, but if anyone is concerned with equal flow from all sections, that's how you do it.


Hm... so you would have the UGF on all outer edges of the tank. That's a good idea. The only issue would be having to fill the entire inside area with some matrix. Unless you direction the suction holes towards the outside of your tank... hm...


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

diwu13 said:


> So having an abundance of floaters in the tank would accomplish nearly the same goal of absorbing the nitrates? Do you use floaters in your tanks as well?
> 
> 
> 
> Hm... so you would have the UGF on all outer edges of the tank. That's a good idea. The only issue would be having to fill the entire inside area with some matrix. Unless you direction the suction holes towards the outside of your tank... hm...


I use tonnes of frogbit in my tanks and my nitrates are just around the first orange color, somewhere in between 0-10ppm max.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I try not to use floaters because they overgrown the top of the tank and I have to clear them off too frequently.

And having 2 uplift tubes would be a bit messy and dysfunctional unless I had 2 canisters, because splitting the intake on the filter would draw more from the closest intake to the filter.


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## shrimpnmoss (Apr 8, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> I try not to use floaters because they overgrown the top of the tank and I have to clear them off too frequently.
> 
> And having 2 uplift tubes would be a bit messy and dysfunctional unless I had 2 canisters, because splitting the intake on the filter would draw more from the closest intake to the filter.


I was thinking that. What if you connected the two up tubes after it exits the tank with a T joint and one canister draws the water after the T?


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> I try not to use floaters because they overgrown the top of the tank and I have to clear them off too frequently.
> 
> And having 2 uplift tubes would be a bit messy and dysfunctional unless I had 2 canisters, because splitting the intake on the filter would draw more from the closest intake to the filter.


Thanks for answering all my questions Liam ._. ! Regarding the canister filters, you just hook the intake of the canister straight onto the uplift tube? And I suppose buying a canister filter for EACH 10g tank would be a huge waste of money... better off going sponge filter route for smaller tanks?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Yes, I use sponge filter in 10 gallon tanks, but for 20 gallon and larger its canister with ugf


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Might be the last questions haha. In your 10g tanks with sponge filters, do you also run another type of chemical filtration? And do you just let the shrimp waste accumulate on the substrate without like vac'ing it up?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

No other filtration, and no gravel vaccing. I would never vacuum a shrimp tank, babies and microorganisms would be sucked out with the tiny amount of poo


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## shrimpnmoss (Apr 8, 2011)

no need to ever vac sub with ugf + active soil...


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## Geniusdudekiran (Dec 6, 2010)

Is it just me or is "gravel vacuuming" a really noobish thing to do? I've always kind of regarded it as being such. Heavily accredited to big-box petstores with their blue clown puke gravel 10 gallon tank with five oscars in it.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I seem to over filter my smaller tanks. lol. My 10gal has a large sponge filter plus aquaclear 20 with biomedia and purigen, my 5.5gal has a small sponge filter plus aquaclear 20 with biomedia and purigen. The main reason i like the aquaclears on there is to give some water flow and having purigen in them doesn't hurt. Plus having 2 filters always make sure I can clean one, move it if needed to another tank or a new tank, etc.

I recently switched my Rena on my crystal tank with an Eheim I had. The quick connector piece on the Eheim cracked on me and started leaking. I already gave the Rena to my roomie, so I will order a new connector after the holiday shipping rush. The problem was having filtration on the crystal tank and keeping the biomedia good, so I took my external breeder box, filled it with the bio-media and turned it into a mini filter. lol.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> No other filtration, and no gravel vaccing. I would never vacuum a shrimp tank, babies and microorganisms would be sucked out with the tiny amount of poo


Ok. Thanks! That's all for now :]



shrimpnmoss said:


> no need to ever vac sub with ugf + active soil...


Yea, I was asking about his 10g tanks with only sponge filters. I figure the UGF would take care of everything by itself.



Geniusdudekiran said:


> Is it just me or is "gravel vacuuming" a really noobish thing to do? I've always kind of regarded it as being such. Heavily accredited to big-box petstores with their blue clown puke gravel 10 gallon tank with five oscars in it.


Unless you have white sand and want the "clean" look there really doesn't seem to be a point


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

So would it be possible to use osmocote with an UGF in a low light tank? My concern is the osmocote's nutrients would be sucked into the water column leading to algae issues..


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I wouldn't use osmocote with a ugf, since osmocote (at least the capsules i got) leech ammonia, and having your filter sucking up ammonia and blowing it around your tank, that might be no good


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

So what about aquasoil or any other substrate that is a very rich nutrient source? Of course being after the leeching and what not is over


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> I wouldn't use osmocote with a ugf, since osmocote (at least the capsules i got) leech ammonia, and having your filter sucking up ammonia and blowing it around your tank, that might be no good


what if u root tab'd the front end of the tank.. instead of root tabing right below the UGF?

wouldnt that force the Osomocote to spread out to the rear but not suck it back up to the water column.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Yeah, you could put them anywhere that is not around where the ugf is. 

And yes, it pulls water through the soil around the UGF, so any nutrients in the soil around it will come through. I've not had a problem though, and it actually helps leech the ammonia out of aquasoil faster so you dont have to do as many wcs to get it out


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## coolnick (Oct 28, 2006)

diwu13 said:


> Hm... so you would have the UGF on all outer edges of the tank. That's a good idea. The only issue would be having to fill the entire inside area with some matrix. Unless you direction the suction holes towards the outside of your tank... hm...


No, just make a small rectangle the same length and width of that U with enough room for a T for your canister inlet (uplift tube if that is what you are calling it). Doesn't matter where you put the manifold, I was just pointing out that a complete loop makes a great manifold. I may not be explaining this very well...


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

coolnick said:


> No, just make a small rectangle the same length and width of that U with enough room for a T for your canister inlet (uplift tube if that is what you are calling it). Doesn't matter where you put the manifold, I was just pointing out that a complete loop makes a great manifold. I may not be explaining this very well...


You just got me more confused haha. If you could draw a picture that would help loads. Is it something like...
___________
| o | *edit* looks like they remove extra spaces 
|__________|

where o = uplift tube?


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## nazspeed (Dec 19, 2008)

I'm considering something like this in my 5.5 but i have a weird setup im seriously over-filtering (aquaclear 50) because i have crappy water (veryhard) i might just remove my intake sponge and conect a single ugf pipe as the intake also change my substrate to fluval stratum so i can lower the ph as much as possible. What size do i drill the holes so i dont suck shrimp babies in? my tank is a copy of this http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/planted-nano-tanks/104309-custom-canopy-5-5-gallon.html also in my kitchen...lol


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## shrimpnmoss (Apr 8, 2011)

That's an awesome looking 5.5. Nice


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

Any other circulation used in the 20L sized tanks or just the UGF? Would a small sponge be beneficial in addition to the UGF if nothing else but to give shrimp an area to eat from? I know the sponge in my other tank is always covered with shrimp.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

The UGF is hooked to the intake of an eheim 2213. But yeah, there's actually 2 sponge filters in that tank.


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

Anybody ever tried HOB with these UGF system?
I mean eheim canisters full of bio balls would be an over kill for like 10gallon.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

sayurasem said:


> Anybody ever tried HOB with these UGF system?
> I mean eheim canisters full of bio balls would be an over kill for like 10gallon.


Nothing is overkill! lol.


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## GDP (Mar 12, 2011)

This inspired me to redo my current 20 tall but I guess I messed up using Topfin black gravel. I didnt realise at the time but I guess the coating wears off and leeches into the tank.

So copy fail lol. Im thinking if I really want to bother with taking the gravel out now or chance it.


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

sayurasem said:


> Anybody ever tried HOB with these UGF system?
> I mean eheim canisters full of bio balls would be an over kill for like 10gallon.


I have a UGF system like this set up in a Fluval Ebi with an Eheim 2213 attached. Other than having 3+ inches of substrate in a 12" cube tank it doesn't look any different than in any other application. While putting it together I thought it looked like a monstrosity in a tank this small but once the substrate layers cover up the tubes all you see is the uplift tube coming out of the substrate at the back of the tank.

I thought that I might have a typhoon (especially since I shortened the spraybar but did not widen or multiply the outlet holes) but the flow actually seems to be just about right. All of that substrate slows the flow down quite a bit.

Obviously it might not be the best utilization of resources to use a nice canister filter and ETH inline heater on a tiny tank like this but it was meant to be a stable show tank for someone who I don't trust to do much work on it so stability and overkill were what I was after.

I plan to try one of these with a powerhead on it instead of a canister to see how much of a mess I can make but I take forever to get around to stuff. If a $15 powerhead worked well this would become a viable system for a lot more tanks and lot smaller/cheaper tanks.


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## dmxsoulja3 (Dec 22, 2010)

Can you post some details about what size holes you drilled and the spacing between them on the UGF?


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

dmxsoulja3 said:


> Can you post some details about what size holes you drilled and the spacing between them on the UGF?


Here:



> As far as the UGF is, the first row (closest to the inlet) the holes are 2 inches apart, I used a 4mm drill bit. The second row (farthest from inlet) are 1 inch apart, in a hope to equalize the input throughout the entire filter. I have 3 of these homemade filters and I'm quite happy with the performance of all 3. I have had absolutely no clogs in the last 6 months, and no slowdown of performance either.


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## dmxsoulja3 (Dec 22, 2010)

How much Seachem matrix did you use in that area, I see it is sold in liters, will be setting up a 20L and want to use it in the tank, and then get some extra to fill my eheim with.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

i used about a liter in that setup. I buy it in the 2 liter bottles. I used maybe just under a liter on the UGF, and put the rest in the eheim filter.


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

Is it ideal to have the UGF run along the entire bottom? Or is what you did more than sufficient already?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

bump for someone asking about DIY UGF


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

jkan0228 said:


> Is it ideal to have the UGF run along the entire bottom? Or is what you did more than sufficient already?


I cover about 1/2 to 2/3rds with the UGF, leaving 1/2 to 1/3rd unfiltered. This allows the substrate to have a longer buffering life, and also allows for anaerobic areas so anaerobic bacteria can take hold somewhere.


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## CookieM (Feb 7, 2012)

mordalphus said:


> Here's another design of ugf I've made:


I see some people going with the pipe set-up. I've never done it or know what the benefits of doing it.

Seem like an under-gravel filtration type? Could you explain what's the benefit of doing it this way vs. the regular canister intake with a sponge over it.


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> I cover about 1/2 to 2/3rds with the UGF, leaving 1/2 to 1/3rd unfiltered. This allows the substrate to have a longer buffering life, and also allows for anaerobic areas so anaerobic bacteria can take hold somewhere.


So if you're using a substrate thats nutrient rich such as aquasoil, will the nutrients be in the water column as well?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Yep, which means soils like aquasoil will leech the ammonia faster too.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

It is like a UGF. It turns your substrate into a biological and mechanical filter, but it also keeps baby shrimp out of your filter and looks very nice (no sponge dangling at the end of your intake).






CookieM said:


> I see some people going with the pipe set-up. I've never done it or know what the benefits of doing it.
> 
> Seem like an under-gravel filtration type? Could you explain what's the benefit of doing it this way vs. the regular canister intake with a sponge over it.


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## ElBoltonero (Jan 18, 2012)

It's like building a manifold for the bottom of a mash tun for brewing. Here's a quick look at some of the science behind it. Since the idea is essentially the same (getting liquid out without any of the solids), it's very transferable.

http://www.howtobrew.com/appendices/appendixD-1.html


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## jingleberry (Mar 1, 2012)

Any issues with clogging? I'm thinking about using one for my very first shrimp tank. Planning to cover the UGF with lava rock, with a mixed layer of SMS and FSS on top of that.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

No clogging for me.


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

does a UGF also eliminate the threat of soil leaching ?


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

acitydweller said:


> does a UGF also eliminate the threat of soil leaching ?


No, it won't eliminate it. But the leeching will finish quicker as the soil is much much more aerated.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

If you are talking about the leeching of ammonia, it helps pull the ammonia out of the soil, but does not eliminate the ammonia in aquasoil.


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

Where do you get old sea mud, bacteria, and bacteria food for the layer beneath the substrate?


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## hedge_fund (Jan 1, 2006)

meowschwitz said:


> Where do you get old sea mud, bacteria, and bacteria food for the layer beneath the substrate?


I think Liam sells it (the guy that started this thread). You can google "aquarliam" and it will take you to his website.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Old sea mud, there are several brands, as well as bacterias and bacteria food.

I use a proprietary blend for my tanks, it contains old sea mud, bt-9, 2 secret bacterias, 2 secret bacteria foods (although you can use bioplus or shirakura biseibutsu no moto), fulvic acid and montmorillonite. 

Works good and does it's job under the substrate!


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

Buy his special sauce of his website!


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## Michiba54 (Nov 24, 2011)

Is there a difference between using tube style UGF an the flat square ones from back in the day?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Yes, flat plate style has uneven flow, pulling only from the area immediately surrounding the uplift tube.


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## FreedPenguin (Aug 2, 2011)

Good to know! I was wondering the same thing


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## Bananariot (Feb 28, 2012)

If we decide to use a powerhead to try and run one of these setups for a 10 gallon lets say....what should be the min gph needed to work one of those babies effectively?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

No idea, wouldn't need to be much


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## Bananariot (Feb 28, 2012)

Would a 170 gph do the trick? I have one of those laying around. Would it be in my best interest to give a prefilter for the power head intake?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

if you hook up the powerhead intake to the UGF, that WOULD be the prefilter


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## Bananariot (Feb 28, 2012)

Lol I guess, but you know how you have fine filter pads in the intake to prevent jams on the first day? Would a powerfilter need some sort of prefilter?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

No, a powerhead will just shoot the dirt back into the tank, no biggie. I just use fine filter pads the first day so that the BIO MEDIA doesn't get clogged with dust.


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## chizamp (Apr 12, 2008)

Why did you decide to build a UGF? What are the advantages of adding that UGF to your shrimp tank? Is it just as simple as better filtration thus cleaner water?


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## inka4041 (Jul 27, 2008)

Massive surface area for nitrifying bacteria, well oxygenated substrate for other microfauna the shrimp like to graze on, and the substrate helps protect baby shrimp from the intake. I'm sure there are even more benefits listed in the meat of this thread.


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## chizamp (Apr 12, 2008)

Very cool, thanks for the reply inka4041. I haven't had a shrimp tank up in about 4 years, just now getting back in to setting it back up and I haven't seen this UGF in a shrimp tank till just now. I will read through the entire thread now, but very interesting method to say the least. Thanks for sharing.


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

Awesome. How large of a tank will this portion serve?



sbarbee54 said:


> Buy his special sauce of his website!


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Enough for a few tanks


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## FreedPenguin (Aug 2, 2011)

I vote this thread be stickied!


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Haha, would be easier to find!

I thought about importing the azoo tubes, but I think the PVC undergravel system is a lot more customizable, and about 10 times cheaper. Not to mention you don't need to wait a week for them to get to you, just a stop by home depot and you're set!


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## FreedPenguin (Aug 2, 2011)

This thread is not self promoting and it honestly helped me out and countless others. Setting up a proper tank can save a lot of money!


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

Essentially you'll need the following for a setup like this?
- Canister Filter
- PVC tubing
- A Drill or somesort for the holes
- Large media like Seachem Matrix
- Substrate 

Additional:
- Substrate additives

Edit- BTW, Liam do you have any new ideas for a purigen reactor?


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## FreedPenguin (Aug 2, 2011)

Home depot has water filters I've seen used for reactor with a filter bag and purigen.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Yeah, the purigen reactor is very simple, I will post a how to pretty soon


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

Forgot I was addressing to liam based on his post on the first page. If you have a filter bag with the purigen it defeats the purpose as the reactor should have free flowing purigen(like the first page)


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## Michiba54 (Nov 24, 2011)

Hey Liam is this what you used to connect the Eheim intake tube to your UGF?

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...=-1&keyword=watts+quick+connect&storeId=10051

I gave up trying to find one earlier today... I didn't 100% remember what you said it was or what it looked like an the old guy in plumbing was getting all pissed off because I wasn't sure what I wanted an didn't want his help... :icon_roll


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Yep, that looks like it!


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

What if the canister filter uses 5/8" tubing? Home Depot doesn't seem to carry any quick connects for 5/8".


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Use a 5/8ths barb fitting. I did that recently on my 50 gallon tank.

Basically you make the uplift tube come out the tank with PVC, and then install a nylon barb: 









Bring a chunk of your filter tubing home depot with you so you can try it on the barbs and find one that fits best.


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

Does the uplift tube need to come out of the tank?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

no, it doesn't, but I did it like that because I was afraid of how it would look having the hose go all the way down into the tank.


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

Did you get the barb fitting from Home Depot? Couldn't find any at my local store; all they had was one made of brass.


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## madness (Jul 31, 2011)

They have this stuff scattered all throughout the store. Some of it in with the PVC pipe, some with sink type plumbing, etc. Can be a pain to find.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

They were at the end of the sprinkler section in my home depot. They also have clear ones next to the brass ones at mine.


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## Michiba54 (Nov 24, 2011)

meowschwitz said:


> What if the canister filter uses 5/8" tubing? Home Depot doesn't seem to carry any quick connects for 5/8".


I thought Liam said the quick connect would work for a 2217, but I misread what he said. Anyways, aside from the PVC intake with a barb like has been suggested you can:

1 ) Use a 2213 intake, wouldn't be too hard to convert at the tubing for a clean look. Not sure if the restriction of water will be a problem or not. 

2 ) Take a PVC end cap an drill a hole just big enough for the 5/8 tube to fit in... you can use silicone to make it water tight if you want.
*
3) Buy a 5/8 quick connect online... Think they are about $7 on usplastics.com. You would need come kind of 5/8 to x/x adapter also.*

*edit: Ignore the bold, I don't see that fitting anywhere... no idea what I was looking at *


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

Do you have a link to the right fitting, Michiba? 

I spent half an hour at Home Depot, asked 5 different workers, walked the entire store, and still couldn't find the 5/8" plastic barb fitting. Also went to Orchard and Lowes and didn't find it. Ugh. Might have to do the end cap thing.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I found them in the section that has fridge icemaker/water dispenser parts. I'll see if I can find the part when I get home.


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## meowschwitz (Sep 6, 2011)

Thanks, mordalphus.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I couldn't find the packaging, but it looks like this. It's nylon, not Pvc, but threads into a Pvc elbow just fine.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Do a Google search for 1/2 inch npt nylon barb


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## beenoob (Jun 6, 2012)

mordalphus said:


> Yeah, the purigen reactor is very simple, I will post a how to pretty soon


How is this reactor? Would you please to share pictures with us?:icon_mrgr


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## TrippieCrippie (May 21, 2012)

Would this kind of setup be feasible or beneficial to a large tank with a cfs500 filter or would I be better served using a traditional intake tube?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I'm not familiar with that filter, but I am having great results using this setup on my 50 gallon tank


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## TrippieCrippie (May 21, 2012)

500gph filter I am just wondering if it would suck in to much substrate with such a high flow rate. Because I am most interested in the aesthetic appeal of your ugf it is really so much less of an eye sore then your usual intake tube.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

You could use a larger diameter pipe, like 3/4 inch or 1 inch, and drill more holes in it.


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## TrippieCrippie (May 21, 2012)

Thanks for the advice


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## nosebleed (Apr 2, 2012)

mordalphus said:


> I couldn't find the packaging, but it looks like this. It's nylon, not Pvc, but threads into a Pvc elbow just fine.


This can be found at any hobby store.


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## plamski (Sep 25, 2009)

Lowe's or home depot -they are where quick disconnect and L shape barbs for RO supply are close to hose section. They have black one too -same size in sprinkler supplies section.


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## rrastro (Jun 14, 2012)

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...gle&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=24542#.T-R8Lo6cNS8

for the folks needing 5/8 quick connect fittings. man, this google thing is amaaaazing.

thanks for an awesome thread Liam! I'm going to set up a freshwater sump/refugium dealio with one of these diy ugf on a 20-30g feeding a 10g into a 5.5g and back again. Thoughts? I'll have redundant aquaclear HOBs on all three tanks and both 10g and 5.5g will have shrimp.


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## rrastro (Jun 14, 2012)

mordalphus said:


> Yeah, the purigen reactor is very simple, I will post a how to pretty soon


I know I'm not the only one waiting on this!

C'mon... let's see it:biggrin:


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I need to recharge my purigen, so when I do, ill take pictures while its apart and show everyone how its made.


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

I am recharging 3L now! I cycle it every 6 months. Change out the 3L with the other 3L I have recharge it and let the extra 3L sit and wait for the 6month mark


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

mordalphus said:


> I need to recharge my purigen, so when I do, ill take pictures while its apart and show everyone how its made.


Plus post pic on how you recharge it 
Do you just pour the purigen sand to container with bleach/water solution?


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## HD Blazingwolf (May 12, 2011)

IM so making one of those UGF..man u shoulda started a thread just for that thing


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## Alyssa (Sep 16, 2011)

Do you seal the connecting pipes in the ugf with anything?


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## FlyingShawn (Mar 4, 2011)

I love this idea, but I guess my concern would be how it holds up over the long term (2+ years). "Normal" flow UGF's have a reputation for being able to suddenly go south after a few years of use, which led to the (relative) popularity of "reverse" flow ones a while back.

I'm guessing the Matrix acting as a sort of prefilter for the pipes would help, but is that enough? Does using drilled-PVC instead of UGF plates solve the problem or just delay its onset?

Would it work to reverse the flow periodically to "flush" any accumulating muck from the Matrix layer? Every six months or so you could hook up the canister intake to a pipe with a LARGE sponge and the output to the UGF and let it run for a few days. I'm sure I'd cloud the tank like crazy, but it'd greatly reduce the amount of muck trying to clog the UGF and the rest would settle outside the UGF area or be captured by the intake sponge (which you could then remove and squeeze out in a bucket).

Liam, do you ever leave tanks up long enough for this to be an issue?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

FlyingShawn said:


> I love this idea, but I guess my concern would be how it holds up over the long term (2+ years). "Normal" flow UGF's have a reputation for being able to suddenly go south after a few years of use, which led to the (relative) popularity of "reverse" flow ones a while back.
> 
> I'm guessing the Matrix acting as a sort of prefilter for the pipes would help, but is that enough? Does using drilled-PVC instead of UGF plates solve the problem or just delay its onset?
> 
> ...


I guess with buffering substrate since you have to change it out 12-24 months later, you end up cleaning the UGF at that time. I used the plates but only 1 plate so 50% of it is UGF. Mine is powered by HOB filters cause that's what I had around, same as the plates. Few different pieces of tubing an hoses laying around and I was able to make them fit.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I broke one down that I had going for 2 years, it hadn't clogged at all by then.

I haven't had even a tiny bit of trouble with them.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

Alyssa said:


> Do you seal the connecting pipes in the ugf with anything?


I haven't sealed the parts, no. You certainly could though.


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## Drewsplantednutz (Jan 25, 2012)

I'm bumping this tread to see how things are and if you guys are still using this method. As I am setting up a TB tank and looking for some pro tips.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

I still use on all my tanks, even the sulawesi tanks.


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## Puddles (Jan 5, 2013)

I'm using a modified version. Mine has two outlets, one connected to intake of canister filter and one hooked up by tube to an aquaclear hob. I like the hob attached to it because I can easily take Purigen in and out without tearing apart my canister. This is on a tank with Crs babies, Taiwan bees, and blue diamonds. No losses so far, keeps readings at 0.


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## Drewsplantednutz (Jan 25, 2012)

Any problems using this with Amazonia? I found this on shrimpnow "For substrate filter, you can see the manual comes with the ADA substrate stated explicitly that it should not be used with substrate filter."


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## Puddles (Jan 5, 2013)

I am using mine with Amazonia new. Works fine, I believe it will shorten the life span though.


Sent from my IPad using magic


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

these havent had any effect on my aquasoil or its life span, they're under one small part of the substrate and the flow through it is not fast enough to erode the aquasoil

The reason the old amazonia used to say not to use with UGF is because amazonia used to turn to mud pretty quickly.


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## Drewsplantednutz (Jan 25, 2012)

Ok, sweet im in. Thanks guys. So I got a 20g high, 9L of Amazonia, Liams homemade UGF system on a Fluval 206, one or two sponge filters, Liams special sauce for under substrate, Salty Shrimp Bee Shrimp Gh+, DI water until I buy a RO unit, too many Borneo Wild products to list but do wish to use more Mosura products, and after tank cycles hopefully 10 Mischlings and 2 or 3 Pandas/Red Wines. Anything else you think I will need?


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## Puddles (Jan 5, 2013)

you sound ready to rock


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## londonloco (Aug 25, 2005)

I read somewhere to put a thin layer of some sort of cloth media over the UGF to help stop clogging, but didn't see this in this thread, is that what is done?


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

londonloco said:


> I read somewhere to put a thin layer of some sort of cloth media over the UGF to help stop clogging, but didn't see this in this thread, is that what is done?



I don't do that because the cloth will clog very quickly. The point of this design is it will ALLOW dust and fine particles to enter the canister filter instead of clogging the ugf.


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

Yes like Liam said, best is to just put a good layer of filter media right over it, it would act as a catch for larger particals going in.


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## londonloco (Aug 25, 2005)

sbarbee54 said:


> Yes like Liam said, best is to just put a good layer of filter media right over it, it would act as a catch for larger particals going in.


Ok, maybe that's what I read. What do you mean by filter media, like this:

http://www.petco.com/product/118994...cs-_-1554476&gclid=CLfLyt2WnrkCFcOe4Aod9QMADw

Thanks....


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

Well I cant get on that sight at work, but like Eheim Pro filter media or Seachem filter media. Not only will it act to block large particals it will also act as a large good bacteria source to help break down and thing in the substrate. Especially with the Water being pulled through it.


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## londonloco (Aug 25, 2005)

KK, ty....


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

No, not that stuff, just any ceramic biomedia will work, I use seachem matrix because I like the size, price and performance.

Use mesh or cotton at your own risk. I'm telling you now that they will clog and you will be very upset.


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## Bananariot (Feb 28, 2012)

mordalphus said:


> No, not that stuff, just any ceramic biomedia will work, I use seachem matrix because I like the size, price and performance.
> 
> Use mesh or cotton at your own risk. I'm telling you now that they will clog and you will be very upset.


Like no joke use matrix. I've cheaped out several times on depth of matrix and/or used ceramic rings.......its gonna clog...just use an appropriate depth of matrix lol.

And yes cotton/mesh will just clog after like........a month lol.......i mean just look at sponge prefilters for any HOB..imagine that but with disintegrating dust off the substrate....doomed for clogging.....like Fat Albert's arteries..


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## FlyingShawn (Mar 4, 2011)

coolnick said:


> No, just make a small rectangle the same length and width of that U with enough room for a T for your canister inlet (uplift tube if that is what you are calling it). Doesn't matter where you put the manifold, I was just pointing out that a complete loop makes a great manifold. I may not be explaining this very well...





diwu13 said:


> You just got me more confused haha. If you could draw a picture that would help loads. Is it something like...
> ___________
> | o | *edit* looks like they remove extra spaces
> |__________|
> ...


I think he's referring to something like this, where the pipes reconnect to make a complete loop:









However, you'd have to change Liam's drilling pattern to even out the flow across the whole area. Instead of drilling the rear pipe every 2" and the front one every 1", you'd probably need to separate the 2" section from the 1" section on a diagonal line like this (where the 1" section is the corner area farthest from the uplift):









What about a dual-uplift hybrid design to add aeration and increase the flow rate? Specifically, imagine if one of the uplifts were connected to a canister and the other was air- or powerhead-driven like a traditional UGF? It'd boost aeration to the tank (a problem I've had on canister-only setups) and you could connect the air pump to a UPS backup battery in case the power went out (I'm guessing the battery would last a lot longer running the air pump than driving the canister).

Would you run the risk of having too much flow through the UGF?


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## bostoneric (Sep 7, 2011)

in the "dual" setup, the suction on the side with the canister filter would be strong enough that the air powered side might even flow downward because the water would flow in the path of least resistance through the tubing to the canister side. (other path being through the soil)


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## FlyingShawn (Mar 4, 2011)

bostoneric said:


> in the "dual" setup, the suction on the side with the canister filter would be strong enough that the air powered side might even flow downward because the water would flow in the path of least resistance through the tubing to the canister side. (other path being through the soil)


I was thinking of using a JetLifter to power the air side (they have a REALLY impressive flow rate), so that possibility hadn't even occurred to me, but there's definitely a chance that you're right and the canister might overpower it anyway.

I'm not aware of any hard data about the actual flow rates the JetLifter is capable of, so I'm not sure there's any way to find out short of building and testing it. I might try that (worse case I just remove the second uplift and cap it), but first I'll ask Stephan of SwissTropicals if he knows of any flow data.


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## FlyingShawn (Mar 4, 2011)

I just had this exchange over email with Stephan Tanner of SwissTropicals.com (quoted with permission):



FlyingShawn said:


> Are you aware of any data about what sort of flow rates the 16" JetLifter is capable of? I know it would be partially dependent on the strength of the air supply, but I'd probably be dedicating a pump to it (thinking of using a Tetra Whisper 20, but might even go up to one of the two outlets on a Whisper 60).
> 
> I'm thinking of connecting the JetLifter to a PVC UGF that would also serve as the intake for a canister filter (Rena XP3). Look at the bottom picture of this post to help you visualize it:
> [link to my earlier post]
> ...





Stephan Tanner said:


> The 8" does ~100 gal/h but as you said, that depends on airflow, the taller ones can pump even more.
> 
> Now, I would never connect two pumps, airlifters or any other device to the same source (pipe). Hydrodynamics dictates that when flow gets disturbed, the resistance increases several fold; hence if water comes out of a pipe into a T-connector and the flow in both directions is not balanced the resulting turbulence would severely affect both sides. You might lose more net flow than say the lifter might provide, so de facto there would be less going out than before. A canister changes its flow due to clogging over time, so balancing it is almost impossible. I would simply skip the canister, the undergravel is already sufficient for the whole tank.


In other words: the hybrid design is not one of my better ideas. :redface: I still haven't given up on the idea of having a secondary air-based system for aeration and redundancy, but am still brainstorming effective ways to do it (sponges are an obvious option and Stephan suggested a corner HMF, but I'm not sure I want to take up that much space in my fairly narrow 52gal display tank and that's a topic for another thread).

Going back to my earlier picture of the complete-loop UGF (what Coolnik called a "equalized pressure manifold"), are there any downsides to this setup compared to the original U-shaped design from Liam?


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## bostoneric (Sep 7, 2011)

why not build two separate complete loops? one powered by canister another by air lift?

I just completed my version of a custom pvc setup this weekend. I did a complete loop and using my awesome engineering degree, just kinda eyeballed the different spacing for the intake holes.

My setup looks like this; DIY PVC undergravel in a loop, powered by a 2213 with 2215 prefilter. Matrix around the PVC and both eheims full of matrix, I also have an air powered Tetra Brilliant Sponge Filter in the same tank.

I'm all for a custom canister powered undergravel filter, but with shrimp, having an air powered sponge filter is a must also. Between the bacteria on the sponge for them to graze on and the additional aeration both are highly beneficial for shrimp.


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## FlyingShawn (Mar 4, 2011)

Liam, did you ever post the pictures of your latest-generation Purigen reactor? I tried searching to see if they were in a separate thread, but couldn't find anything.


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## txg8gxp (Oct 28, 2011)

I know this thread has been dead for awhile but I was hoping for some advice. I'm setting up a 40b shrimp tank and would like to try a UGF setup. Would a fluval 306 be a good size? Also, 1/2" PVC was used in this build, but with a bigger canister and tank would I be better with 3/4"? Substrate will be akadama aswell, but would small to medium sized lava work as a good substitute for seachem matrix for around the UGF?


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## greenteam (Feb 8, 2012)

You can use 1/2" PVC for the under gravel portion to keep lower profile and just attach 3/4" adapter to the section that connects to your filter.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

You can use whatever piping fits with your filter. I like half inch pvc because it's easy to work with and you can get whatever flow you want by drilling more or less holes. 

You can use lava rock instead of searches matrix, but try to make sure the pieces are a good size. Larger than the holes on your pipes, but not by much.


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## Jesseter (Jul 28, 2013)

Hey there. So just a couple of quick questions as I am getting ready to do a 20 gallon high. How far apart are the holes drilled and what size bit do you use? Mordalphus did you ever post the purigen reactor? I did a search but couldn't find it. Where is it placed in regards to the UG Filter? On the intake or the output side? Thanks!!


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## d0pey (May 7, 2012)

Sorry to ressurect this thread!

I am actually giving this a shot but I am completely new in canister filters. I have read that reverse flow would help avoid cloggage? Does that apply for this setup as well? Are we suppose to use the outflow pipe/spray bar? This will be used in my 12g Long.

Thank you!


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