# Super Simple DIY CO2 Picture Guide by TAF



## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Okay, the first time I put together DIY CO2, I was a little nervous since the guide I was following had no pictures.

So... here is a guide to simple CO2 with full step by step pictures:

DIY CO2


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## Jimbo205 (Oct 12, 2006)

I Love That!


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## Aquamanx (Sep 28, 2006)

Very good DIY instructions!


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## Jason Baliban (Mar 3, 2005)

This should be a sticky.

Nice job

jB


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

:redface: :redface: ::Blush:: :redface: :redface: 

Thanks. Thought it might be of some use.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

You can make it even simpler and easier by using the small hole method of sealing the tubing in the cap. Just drill a hole about the same size or a bit smaller than the ID of the tubing. Then cut the tubing at an angle and thread it though the hole and then pulling it through with pliers.


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

Totally awesome! Good job mate :icon_smil


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## argblarg (Aug 7, 2006)

It's a good guide, I have to disagree about your steps to make the water a certain temperature. The yeast will activate quickly between 80 and 125 degrees with no problems. The best way would be to use "hot" approx 110 degree water to dissolve your sugar, then dump the yeast in. 

I have tried two side by side bottles, one with room temperature water and one with 110 degree, and in the hot water, the yeast kicks off right away within minutes. 

There was another thread I can't find where activating yeast was discussed. Anyone who has worked at a pizza joint or bakery can attest to the hot water used to activate yeast.


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Rex Grigg said:


> You can make it even simpler and easier by using the small hole method of sealing the tubing in the cap. Just drill a hole about the same size or a bit smaller than the ID of the tubing. Then cut the tubing at an angle and thread it though the hole and then pulling it through with pliers.



That's what I use, works great. No leaks when checked with water/soap. =)


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

argblarg said:


> It's a good guide, I have to disagree about your steps to make the water a certain temperature. The yeast will activate quickly between 80 and 125 degrees with no problems. The best way would be to use "hot" approx 110 degree water to dissolve your sugar, then dump the yeast in.
> 
> I have tried two side by side bottles, one with room temperature water and one with 110 degree, and in the hot water, the yeast kicks off right away within minutes.
> 
> There was another thread I can't find where activating yeast was discussed. Anyone who has worked at a pizza joint or bakery can attest to the hot water used to activate yeast.


I wrap my bottle in a towel. Gives me a more constant CO2 output since the temperature in my apartment fluctuates a lot during the day.


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## Nightshop (May 12, 2006)

Connecting two or three of these could supply a good ammount of C02 I presume . . .


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Nightshop said:


> Connecting two or three of these could supply a good ammount of C02 I presume . . .


I use 2 on this mix for my 55g and am getting up to just the right ammount of CO2, but I'm using very fine diffusers and have to be careful that I'm not overdoing it, as my hoods fit pretty tightly and do not allow a whole lot of CO2 to escape or O2 to get in.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Rex Grigg said:


> You can make it even simpler and easier by using the small hole method of sealing the tubing in the cap. Just drill a hole about the same size or a bit smaller than the ID of the tubing. Then cut the tubing at an angle and thread it though the hole and then pulling it through with pliers.


I am awful rough with my bottle caps, and have found that the in-line connector to stand up to me better than the "pull through" hose. Of course both methods work, I just like the security of a solid fit.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

argblarg said:


> It's a good guide, I have to disagree about your steps to make the water a certain temperature. The yeast will activate quickly between 80 and 125 degrees with no problems. The best way would be to use "hot" approx 110 degree water to dissolve your sugar, then dump the yeast in.
> 
> I have tried two side by side bottles, one with room temperature water and one with 110 degree, and in the hot water, the yeast kicks off right away within minutes.
> 
> There was another thread I can't find where activating yeast was discussed. Anyone who has worked at a pizza joint or bakery can attest to the hot water used to activate yeast.



I use normal bread yeast and have many times done horrible damage to my yeast by having too warm of water. (And whole lot of flat bread too... LOL) I have also found that room temperature water may start slower but also does not pull water up the tube as much as it cools if your yeast takes a little while to get going. 

Of course this probably all depends hugely on the quality and virility of your yeast. However, starting slower at room temperature water seems simpler for an almost fool proof begining to DIY CO2. My normally starts producing in about 15 minutes with room temperature water.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Thank you for all the nice comments. Hopefully this guide will help a few people.


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## LoJack (Oct 10, 2006)

wow, very well done


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## A Hill (Jul 25, 2005)

awsome, i have a 1g diy co2 system but gave up on it for a while because i couldn't get the right recipie resulting in TONS of co2 the first two days and none a week later -.- so i stopped when i got cherry shrimp.

now all the sudden i have green water, AGAIN so i have to get the co2 system back up. will try your method!

thanks!

- Fish Newb -


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Fish Newb said:


> awsome, i have a 1g diy co2 system but gave up on it for a while because i couldn't get the right recipie resulting in TONS of co2 the first two days and none a week later -.- so i stopped when i got cherry shrimp.
> 
> now all the sudden i have green water, AGAIN so i have to get the co2 system back up. will try your method!
> 
> ...


Hope it works well for you. If you have very soft water from your tap, you may want to go to two tea-spoons of baking soda to slow it down more, and I would definitly recomend the two bottles started two weeks apart.


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Nice writeup, thank you.

I agree with using the hose connector, IME it provides a tight connection for a longer time than just pulling through the hose.

I would not use an airstone, it might clog up quickly and lead to problems.

Here is another good write-up with lots of related info: DIY CO2 System for Planted Aquarium


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Well, I had been using the same cheap 'fine bubble' Undergravel Filter diffusors for about 6 months, and am still using one (I replaced the other with a ceramic).

I have never had them clog up, and don't even use a bubble counter/gas seperator, either. I do keep the bottles pretty secure behind the tank though, and have never had a tip accident.

So, having never had a clog problem, I really couldn't say, but the UGF kind is 'disposable', so I guess if it clogged up, you could replace it pretty cheaply. In fact, some of the better packs of them come with their own straight air line connectors, so you kill two birds with one air stone. LOL


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

Fish Newb said:


> awsome, i have a 1g diy co2 system but gave up on it for a while because i couldn't get the right recipie resulting in TONS of co2 the first two days and none a week later -.- so i stopped when i got cherry shrimp.
> 
> now all the sudden i have green water, AGAIN so i have to get the co2 system back up. will try your method!
> 
> ...


Try some baking soda, or do the jello method. The jello method "traps" the sugar, resulting in a delayed breakdown and therefore delayed release of CO2. =)


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## vidiots (Jun 17, 2006)

Very nice, well done. Just thought I'd add my 2 cents.. I found that by sitting the bottle on top of the light fixture it stayed warmer and lasted longer than putting it behind or below the tank. It also reduced the need for a check valve by having the bottle above the tank. It was easier to get at to change and you could see that it was working. The only downside was that it was in plain sight.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

The other down side to that one is cats. My kitties would tip them right over if I put them on top.


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## Werdna (Nov 3, 2006)

*Better bottle*

Gatorade bottles have a wider base and are 1 liter in volume. I think they are better than pop if you have the room.

Does light affect the yeast culture at all?


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## skiboarder72 (Oct 13, 2006)

where did you get those airline connectors...


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Werdna said:


> Gatorade bottles have a wider base and are 1 liter in volume. I think they are better than pop if you have the room.
> 
> Does light affect the yeast culture at all?


1 litter juice bottles are also more stable and a little more slender to fit behind tanks. I have no idea if light affects the culture, but I have 1 bottle in a window that produces faster as it warms up during the day and slows down at night...


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

skiboarder72 said:


> where did you get those airline connectors...


You can get airline connectors from your LFS. I like the ones I get from PetCo. They come in a package of disposable fine bubble airstones for undergravel filters.
I found this style of inline connector to be the best IMO.


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## Aquamanx (Sep 28, 2006)

TAF CAF said:


> You can get airline connectors from your LFS. I like the ones I get from PetCo. They come in a package of disposable fine bubble airstones for undergravel filters.
> I found this style of inline connector to be the best IMO.


Is the stone you use called "Discard-A-Stones"? You say they work well, & you haven't had a clog in over 6 months? That sounds great to me...

Thanks!


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Aquamanx said:


> Is the stone you use called "Discard-A-Stones"? You say they work well, & you haven't had a clog in over 6 months? That sounds great to me...
> 
> Thanks!


Yup. That's them. We do eventually upgrade them to ceramic stones (for the finer misting of bubbles), but we do not have the money to replace them all at once. (And we keep adding new tanks! LOL) However we continue to use the the original Discard a Stone in the new tanks.


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## Solstice (Jan 9, 2006)

Great guide! I used it to setup CO2 on my 15gal last night. Do you have any recommendations for checking for leaks? I can definitely tell that I'm producing a good amount of CO2 (I can see bubbles in the bottle and if I squeeze the bottle down a bit creating a vacuum the CO2 pushes it back out in a couple hours) but I'm not seeing anything come out of the airstone. I waited overnight just to make sure. If I squeeze the bottle I can get plenty of bubbles out of the airstone but it doesn't seem to be doing it on its own. I even epoxied the airline connector to the bottle top. 

Also, how long are your tubes? Mine is probably 2 feet to the check valve and then another 18" to the airstone. Could it be too long? I realize that it shouldn't matter because the pressure should eventually push the CO2 through, but I'm no physics major either...


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Solstice said:


> Great guide! I used it to setup CO2 on my 15gal last night. Do you have any recommendations for checking for leaks? I can definitely tell that I'm producing a good amount of CO2 (I can see bubbles in the bottle and if I squeeze the bottle down a bit creating a vacuum the CO2 pushes it back out in a couple hours) but I'm not seeing anything come out of the airstone. I waited overnight just to make sure. If I squeeze the bottle I can get plenty of bubbles out of the airstone but it doesn't seem to be doing it on its own. I even epoxied the airline connector to the bottle top.
> 
> Also, how long are your tubes? Mine is probably 2 feet to the check valve and then another 18" to the airstone. Could it be too long? I realize that it shouldn't matter because the pressure should eventually push the CO2 through, but I'm no physics major either...


It may take a more time for longer lengths of tubing but I have used anywhere from 2' to 5' of tubing and they all eventually starting to bubble. I would recommend waiting a full 24 hours without squeezing or bothering the bottle and if you do not have bubbles by then there is probably a problem.

A couple of things that may be causing the problem (if it is not just waiting for the pressure to build)

1: House Tempature
2: Bad Yeast (I have had yeast I had just purchased end up being bad, many, many times...)
3: Or as you said it may be a leak. There are a couple different ways to check for a leak, but the best I have found is to immerse the entire bottle and assembly in the bathtub and see if any bubbles come out anywhere they are not supposed to. Another method is to make a light soap solution and "paint" it on around the connections (just like you were checking for a leak on a tire). I do not like this method as it may allow soap to get into the tank.


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## Solstice (Jan 9, 2006)

Thanks. I'll try the bottle submersion method and see if there are any leaks in the bottlecap/airline junction. Do you guys remove the plastic membrane (this one in particular is blue) that is at the top of the bottlecap (on the inside)? I think I'm going to take it out as well. The hole I drilled was almost exactly the same size as the airline connector but I epoxied it, so I don't think the leak is there, but that's the only leak spot I can think of....


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## vidiots (Jun 17, 2006)

I've found that sometimes the cap does not seal tightly to the top of the bottle if remove the membrane from the inside of the cap. I have some gatorade bottles that are missing the cap membrane and they leak around the cap. It seems to be more likely to leak without the membrane on the the bottles with larger caps.


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## rlong (Jul 8, 2006)

Thanks for the guide. I have already had one going for a while now but I like to see others technigues. Never heard about the backing soda thing - I'll give that a try.


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## 415w203 (Oct 31, 2006)

just completed a small tank for my first 10g nano. i used a small gatorade bottle and reduced the amounts of all the ingredients. work just fine. thanks for the write up.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Solstice said:


> Thanks. I'll try the bottle submersion method and see if there are any leaks in the bottlecap/airline junction. Do you guys remove the plastic membrane (this one in particular is blue) that is at the top of the bottlecap (on the inside)? I think I'm going to take it out as well. The hole I drilled was almost exactly the same size as the airline connector but I epoxied it, so I don't think the leak is there, but that's the only leak spot I can think of....


Nope... we just drill through the cap as is.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

415w203 said:


> just completed a small tank for my first 10g nano. i used a small gatorade bottle and reduced the amounts of all the ingredients. work just fine. thanks for the write up.


Glad it helped! :icon_smil

And welcome to the forum


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## Solstice (Jan 9, 2006)

I went home last night and had a nice, steady, but small stream of bubbles from my airstone. roud: 

I have a plastic airstone one and have been looking for something better quality. What do you guys recommend?  Also, are there any commercially available CO2 bells? I couldn't find anything. I'm interested in using one to get some better absorption but want it to look good....


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## deadmonkey (Oct 22, 2006)

argblarg said:


> It's a good guide, I have to disagree about your steps to make the water a certain temperature. The yeast will activate quickly between 80 and 125 degrees with no problems. The best way would be to use "hot" approx 110 degree water to dissolve your sugar, then dump the yeast in.
> 
> I have tried two side by side bottles, one with room temperature water and one with 110 degree, and in the hot water, the yeast kicks off right away within minutes.
> 
> There was another thread I can't find where activating yeast was discussed. Anyone who has worked at a pizza joint or bakery can attest to the hot water used to activate yeast.


 Actually the yeast should say what temp it needs to activate it...I brew beer and the activation temperature depends on the strain of yeast you have. Just read the back, nuke the water till it's real hot, then add cold water until you reach the activation temperature. Mix in your yeast and wala, activated dry yeast. If you like you can get liquid yeast from your local brew retailer, but it's probably not worth it for a DIY Co2 setup. Also, if you use CANE SURGAR from the brew store I believe it will make a cleaner reaction then just table sugar. Not exactly sure, but that's what I use for Brewing with.

EDIT:
Also, I forgot to mention that there is a lower bound temp for yeast too. If it gets to cold, it will die. Ale yest will die under 45deg I think....I can't remember, but it should say on the yeast packet. If not, then look up what KIND of yeast it is and look on google. OR just ask your local brewer or reatail brew store they should know...if they don't, then they are idiots because this info is crutial to brewing beer.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

There are a couple of different difusers you can use. There is the ceramickind and there is a wood kind. Both of these produce micro bubbles. These bubbles will normally not make it to the top as they are absorbed by the water prior to making it there. As to a glass bell, you may want to try your local glassblowers. We did a bell using the bottom of a 2 litter bottle, but found we got better absorption using micro bubbles going directly into the sponge of our power head.


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## A Hill (Jul 25, 2005)

Well I will add more baking soda to some of the pre made co2 I have sitting in baggies, Will post results in a day or two.

- Andrew


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

_pre made co2 I have sitting in baggies_?


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## Aquamanx (Sep 28, 2006)

You know Andrew,
I was just thinkin that too.. What the Heck are you saying? "Pre-made CO2 in Baggies"...?


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Oh, there are also different diffusors available online at AquaBid.com - Sell or buy aquarium related equipment and fish in an auction format! or other fishy sites.


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## pitty555 (Dec 18, 2006)

hey im new to the forums and was reading over this the other day and made one today for my 55 gallon tank and was wondering if i could hook up a small air pump to this to make the co2 come out a lil faster.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

WELCOME!

I wouldn't recomend it... since you would be pumping in a lot of outside air, and probably lose the CO2 from the water faster thay way as well. The best idea to get more CO2 into the water is to work on ways to get it to disolve. My favorite way is to bubble it right under a sponge on a power-head.

Of course, two bottles will help up your CO2, and started a week apart, will also help regulate your CO2 levels in your tank.

Also, be warned... it may not seem like too much CO2, but early in DIY, it is easy to get carried away and overdose with deadly effect to fishies.


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## pitty555 (Dec 18, 2006)

right now i have two 2 liter bottles hooked up similar to this:

http://family.cecolts.com/c15.JPG

but i have one reactor going into the other then from the second reactor into the bubble counter (3 liter bottle) then runs up into tank with an airline check valve at the top of the tank.

could any of that cause a problem?


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## DC.UNC (Dec 7, 2006)

Taf,

What do you think would be the best amount of co2 for a 46 bow with 2 watts per gallon of lighting? 1 3 liter bottle or 2, 2 liter bottles? 
Thanks


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

pitty555 said:


> right now i have two 2 liter bottles hooked up similar to this:
> 
> http://family.cecolts.com/c15.JPG
> 
> ...


As long as you don't end up with any leaks in your connections, I don't see any problems with the set up. However, it could make it pretty hard to tell when one is getting all used up, and which one it is in that case. If you change them out on a schedule (remembering which one is the one to change that time), I imagine it would be no problem either.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

DC.UNC said:


> Taf,
> 
> What do you think would be the best amount of co2 for a 46 bow with 2 watts per gallon of lighting? 1 3 liter bottle or 2, 2 liter bottles?
> Thanks


Answered in PM, but I would recomend 2 one-liter bottles if you can get decent disolvation of your bubbles.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Bump for new members.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

That article should be a "Sticky" or put in the article section. Its very good and well put together.

BTW...nice job on that Taf


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## fish_lover0591 (Nov 11, 2006)

yup this should become a sticky it is very helpful.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Thanks.

It sure would have been nice when I first started out. I had good instructions, but I am much more of a visual person.


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## yoko (Mar 16, 2007)

I am also a visual learner, so thank you :icon_smil :thumbsup: 
Perfect timing to bump it, as I am starting up my own bottle woo woo:hihi:


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## yoko (Mar 16, 2007)

TAF CAF said:


> There are a couple of different difusers you can use. There is the cera****ind and there is a wood kind. Both of these produce micro bubbles. These bubbles will normally not make it to the top as they are absorbed by the water prior to making it there. As to a gl*** bell, you may want to try your local gl***blowers. We did a bell using the bottom of a 2 litter bottle, but found we got better absorption using micro bubbles going directly into the sponge of our power head.


Hey Taf, do you have a pic of your set up in your tank? I just wanted to see how you got your diffusor positioned to make the bubbles go straight into the sponge of your powerhead... If you could post that up, it would help me out tons. Please? :smile:


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Well, it is packed behind a ton of plants... so here is a idea of how it looks:

|||||= < PowerHead
||
##
## < Sponge filter
##
~----------- < Bubble Diffusor

The bubbles go right up and get sucked to the sponge.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Okay.... maybe that doesn't make much sense.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

lol...I followed it.


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## yoko (Mar 16, 2007)

No, it made perfect sense!! I got it! :icon_cool 

I'm trying to think of another way to do it.

EDIT: Well, I just found this:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/31094-cheap-efficient-filter-solution.html


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## RESGuy (Jan 15, 2007)

Awesome guide! Thanks TAF. I vote sticky too. I will be using this guide with just a small tweak, I am using the JELLO formula 

And nice idea with the reactor under the sponge, though I don't think this tank will have a sponge filter or pre-filter, we'll see.


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## caoboy (Apr 22, 2007)

hey guy's i have a question about DIY Co2. i keep seeing that this is good for 20 gal. tanks correct? i have a 65 gallon, and was wondering if it would be ok to run 3 setups like this, Left side, Middle, Right side? i'm also using .5 liter bottles if this will make any difference. i think i'm going to order one of those Co2 checkers that blacksunshine is making also.


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## Blackthumbwoes (Feb 27, 2007)

i was wondering the very same thing, due to weight issues and my GF not liking the whole big garden idea my 120 has been back burnered so i'm down a 75 or 60 tall. I was thinking about creatively hiding three reactors in the back and using a spray bar water return to circulate the water around. 

Its doing just ducky in my 30 gallon though i just need to tweek the current and get my damn Kh test kit (back ordered again).

Jason


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Definitly will be good for a 20 gal.

For the 65g, It is all going to depend on how you are disolving your bubbles. If you are going with a plain diffusor that bubbles pretty fine bubbles, but they just rise to the surface, then I would go with one set on the left and one on the right. If you are diffusing with a sponge like I am, you will probably only need one set.

I would go with at least one liter bottles for that size of tank. The extra water dilutes the alcholhol that the yeast makes and allows it to run longer before killing off the yeast.

I really like the plastic juice bottles... their rectangular bottoms make them more stable than soda. I am in the process of switching all mine over to juice bottles.


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## Blackthumbwoes (Feb 27, 2007)

i've been difusing mine through a reactor made from a hydro vac and a small pump. Used you guilde to get the Co2 generator going though .

I am using a 1 gallon hawiian punch jug since i have puppies and i want it stable. Its been doing well, only down side is it can fill half my hydrovac with Co2 after a good day running. I need to get a new diffuser on it and find something to break the bubbles up a little bit so i get some more micro bubbles out of there. I have a bit of an aquaclear sponge tucked in the bottom of the hydrovac (another idea from this thread) and its breaking them up and only letting the micro bubbles out...i'd just like more to let out lol.

I'm going to pop by work today and see if i can find some bioballs laying around that i can test out in the tube. Maybe that way if the tube fills half with gas again the fall over those will diffuse it a little faster. I hate wasting perfectly good Co2 lol.

The only other option i can figure out is to to run a primitive venturi to pull the gas back into the stream from the pump break it up that way. 

Oh yeah one other question...in your research for all of this have you found the optimum temperature for yeast to do their work. I get widely varying temps depending on where i'm looking.

thanks a million and this thread has made things much easier for me .

jason


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

I havn't bothered doing research on optimum temperature, since my house would never be what ever that temp is. However, I have noticed that warmer temps mean more production, and vice-versa. 

I have a little one that sits in the window, for my 5g, and I have noticed it almost stops at night when the air is very cold right there, and gets pumping during the day when it warms up again.


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## caoboy (Apr 22, 2007)

no sponge, i have a 24" tall tank, im running it just the bottle->hose->air stone. most of the bubbles dissolve before reaching the top of the tank, so i should be good? i'm thinking about running 2 bottles/upgrade to 2 one liter gatorade bottles ( i like the strength of them compared to other bottles). so i should just run one on each side?


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## RESGuy (Jan 15, 2007)

caoboy said:


> no sponge, i have a 24" tall tank, im running it just the bottle->hose->air stone. most of the bubbles dissolve before reaching the top of the tank, so i should be good? i'm thinking about running 2 bottles/upgrade to 2 one liter gatorade bottles ( i like the strength of them compared to other bottles). so i should just run one on each side?


Oh, my tank is the same depth, it's a 20g tall tank. I want to make a DIY CO2 for it too and this information would be very useful. And with such depth in a tank is a diffuser such as the ADA ones even necessary or can a regular stone be used?


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## CAF (Oct 22, 2006)

Honestly, I have not noticed much difference with depth. We use this method with 2 5g, 1 8g rimless, 1 20L, and 2 55g's. It seems to work the same. I do not think we are building up enough depth pressure to make any difference. Of course we are at 5280' altitude as well...


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Yes, I would go with two bottles... the huge stability benifit you get from starting them a week apart _*really*_ makes a difference. However, as long as you have some water circulation, you could run them in one corner of your tank right next to each other, or seperate them... Pretty much what ever looks best, or is easier for you to work with.

If the bubbles are mostly disolved by the time they reach the top, I think you are set up pretty good. And I don't think fancy diffusors are really nessesary unless you need a super high concentration of CO2 (which of course would endanger your fish).

A lot of it comes down to... are your plants growing? and is the algae kept minimal? Balance is really what you are looking for. Enough CO2 that your nutrients and light are used up by plants instead of algae... but not so much that algae goes crazy because the plants can't take it up fast enough.


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## CdoGG (Apr 6, 2007)

I just used this thread to make my DIY c02 this past weekend. I used a 3L Ice Mountain water bottle. I just drilled a small hole and stuffed the tube in. I have the bottle on the floor under the tank with about 5' of tube. I did a pressure test before screwing the cap on, by blowing air threw the air stone with my mouth. I found that it took a lot of pressure to get it going. To remedy this, I moved the check valve to inside the tank right before the air stone. I did this because I noticed water soaking up threw the air stone , up into the tube. This made it harder to blow bubbles threw the stone because you had to displace the water first. After moving the check valve I could easily blow air threw the stone. My bottle started producing a steady flow of bubbles in about 4 hours.


One thing I have been wondering about is, should you disconnect your diy co2 at night so the plants can take in o2 ? How does that work? or does all DIYers just leave the co2 going 24/7 ?


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

leave it going 24/7.


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

No, you don't have to stop it at night, unless you are boarderline of killing your fish (which would take a lot of CO2 or super tight hoods that don't allow enough O2 to get in).

I did kill quite a few fish once, but it was from too tight of hoods, and I think the problem was more a lack of O2 getting in than too much CO2.

It is the whole reason that I made an oxygenator.
See this thread.

In any case, if you are worried that you are close to overdosing or don't have enough O2, you can run a bubbler on a timer at night to out-gas CO2 and bring in O2.


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## RESGuy (Jan 15, 2007)

TAF CAF said:


> Yes, I would go with two bottles... the huge stability benifit you get from starting them a week apart _*really*_ makes a difference. However, as long as you have some water circulation, you could run them in one corner of your tank right next to each other, or seperate them... Pretty much what ever looks best, or is easier for you to work with.
> 
> If the bubbles are mostly disolved by the time they reach the top, I think you are set up pretty good. And I don't think fancy diffusors are really nessesary unless you need a super high concentration of CO2 (which of course would endanger your fish).
> 
> A lot of it comes down to... are your plants growing? and is the algae kept minimal? Balance is really what you are looking for. Enough CO2 that your nutrients and light are used up by plants instead of algae... but not so much that algae goes crazy because the plants can't take it up fast enough.


Thanks for this reply. I think I am just going to use one bottle on my 20g tall (24 inches) and see how the plants due, and the amount of algae if anything I'll add another bottle or but some Excel. Going to use this rubber "air stone" with the DIY co2 and see how well it does. I want my tank to be as low-tech as possible (check my thread in the low-tech forum or in my sig) so this thread helped me a lot, thanks man!


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## TAF CAF (Jan 12, 2006)

Just wondering how all the DIY'ers are doing with this. 

I have moved up to Bailey, CO (almost 9,000 ft) and have not run CO2 to the planted tanks yet. Just being lazy right now and trying to get the lighting right with LED's instead of CF.

Anyone running LED's notice a reduced need for CO2?


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## Msouza91 (Dec 29, 2011)

I was reading the earlier post' and noticed how you guys were talking about bubbles shouldn't reach the surface? Or shouldn't pop before the surface? How does that work I have some fine bubble that reach all the way to the top is that bad?


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## In.a.Box (Dec 8, 2011)

Over time you will have to seal or silicone around the hole you drill on the cap.
Even if the air line fit tight co2 will still leak out.


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## Daximus (Oct 19, 2011)

Msouza91 said:


> I was reading the earlier post' and noticed how you guys were talking about bubbles shouldn't reach the surface? Or shouldn't pop before the surface? How does that work I have some fine bubble that reach all the way to the top is that bad?


It happens. I didn't read what you read, but I'll attempt to explain what I think they were getting at. Any bubble that reaches the top is a wasted bubble of Co2. So, people try and come up with all kinds of crazy ways to keep those bubbles in the tank as long as possible. 

If your using a diffuser its best to place it at the bottom, giving the bubbles the longest period of contact time with the water. Depending on your setup, some people feed them into the intake on their filters. Some (like me) feed them into a powerhead where they are spat our all over the tank...etc. I have bubbles that make it to the top...it's really hard to avoid without using a reactor. :wink:


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## wootlaws (Feb 25, 2011)

In.a.Box said:


> Over time you will have to seal or silicone around the hole you drill on the cap.
> Even if the air line fit tight co2 will still leak out.


hate to bump an old thread but I was wondering what I could use to seal the airline to the cap to prevent co2 from leaking out that is also aquarium safe?


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## sns26 (Mar 29, 2010)

Get a new cap and cut a new hole. And/or pull the old tubing backwards or forwards through the old hole to "refresh" the seal.

And save up for a pressurized rig. You can spend your time farming plants instead of yeast.


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## wootlaws (Feb 25, 2011)

sns26 said:


> Get a new cap and cut a new hole. And/or pull the old tubing backwards or forwards through the old hole to "refresh" the seal.


There's gotta be some kind of sealant or adhesive ... would hot glue work?


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## sns26 (Mar 29, 2010)

Maybe. But why bother? The "verrry tight fit" method works. Remember KISS. 

No, not the rock band.


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## aquariumnewb (Feb 5, 2012)

So I'm assuming to set-up a DIY CO2 for a 5 g tank, you'd have to scale down the reaction? How often do you have to make a new mix? And is there a safe way to add this to a tank that already has fish in it? Thanks!


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