# How to keep the good bacteria while doing a substrate change - help!



## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

Hi LJ,
A majority of the surface area that's hosts your bacteria will be in the first few inches of substrate while the more critical batch of nitrate processing bacteria in the deeper anaerobic region. Substratet swaps will usually create a link cycle. U can consider swapping half the tank, wait a week then swap the remainder to minimize impact but the mini cycling is largely unavoidable. I hope others can offer some alternative ideas.

New substrates can also be seeded with bacteria, and other substances to encourage the bacterial development in the substrate.


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## laurenjane (Sep 1, 2013)

Thanks citydweller. I'd love to avoid having to cycle AGAIN although I am fish-less so I guess that makes it easier. Half and half might be a nightmare for a noob like me. Maybe I should just brace myself for starting over?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I don't see any mention of a filter? Assuming there is one, I think a lot of the bacteria we want will be in the filter media and so not so likely to see much of a spike to need re-cycle?
In that case, I would just put the filter over into the bucket of tank water and leave it running to circulate water through the media while the change is made.


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## discuspaul (Jul 27, 2010)

Yes, the above-mentioned should work well - It shouldn't take you longer than a couple of hours to make the change in substrate.


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## John Simpson (Mar 14, 2013)

hey, I have some substrate bacteria tabs I think they would work great for this, you can press them down into existing substrate 

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4416257#post4416257


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## laurenjane (Sep 1, 2013)

Thanks John but I'm in Australia, don't like to ship things in from overseas. 

And yes, I have a sponge filter... I like the running tap idea, I can do that easily enough. I'm definitely waiting until I have everything together and then am changing all at once, just waiting on the plants. I've put the rocks in the tank so that the bacteria can get on those, as they are going back in the tank.

I'll let you know how it goes! Thanks.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

If you had fish in the tank I would do something like this:

The maximum population of nitrifying bacteria is in the top few grains of the substrate. 
They need the high oxygen that is from the contact with the water column, but do not like the light that is on the very top of the top layer. 

To save the nitrifying bacteria from the substrate you need skim only the very top layer, less than a dozen grains thick. So, sand, I would save only 1/4" to 1/2".
Put this into several bags like nylon stockings. Hang these in the good water flow areas. 

Other things that have bacteria: Rocks, driftwood, filter media: Keep damp. They do not need to be submerged, so a covered bucket with a few inches of water is enough. The filter media can stay in the filter, as long as the change goes quickly. It is lack of oxygen that would kill the bacteria. 

Set up the new substrate, plant, refill, hang the saved substrate around the tank, get the equipment going. 
Then I would add the fish back. You might see a very small mini-cycle that could last a few days. 
Remove one bag of the sand each week for a month. By that time the bacteria will have recovered. 

BUT!
Since you have no fish, this is a waste of time and effort. 

Do the swap. 
Add ammonia to 3 ppm and continue just like you were still doing the fishless cycle. It will go so fast!


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## laurenjane (Sep 1, 2013)

Thanks Diana, that is actually really good to know.


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## mark546 (Sep 12, 2013)

What I have had luck with in the past mind you not in a planted aquarium, but I switched 3 tanks over from gravel to sand while stocked medium to heavy.

Fill a five gallon bucket half full with old tank water. Buy some pantyhose. Remove the top layer of substrate in the tank and place into panty hose. Throw this into the bucket for now. Turn off your filters, if it is a canister filter remove the top and leave it open during the swap. swapping substrate will eat an impeller or two up. Swap substrates over. If you have fish and need to get them into the tank same day use a clotting agent (bioclear etc...) Ecocomplete comes with this in a packet, or used to anyway. The sediment should settle to the bottom. Do a light gravel vac to take this out. Start the filters back up set the pantyhose filled with old substrate on top of the new and leave it for a week or two. 

Sometimes I will experience a mini cycle, but nothing 2 water changes a week couldn't fix. A bio bacteria additive actually did help with this.

EDIT: Shouldve read the whole thread


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## WendyF (Sep 19, 2013)

I used to get paid to move aquariums & did a lot of substrate swap outs in fully stocked aquariums, so it was important to avoid another cycle in my clients' tanks. I always set up whatever filter they had in a 5 gallon bucket of existing tank water & kept it running on the bucket during the whole process to keep the maximum amount of bacteria alive. It worked well. Good luck!



laurenjane said:


> Thanks John but I'm in Australia, don't like to ship things in from overseas.
> 
> And yes, I have a sponge filter... I like the running tap idea, I can do that easily enough. I'm definitely waiting until I have everything together and then am changing all at once, just waiting on the plants. I've put the rocks in the tank so that the bacteria can get on those, as they are going back in the tank.
> 
> I'll let you know how it goes! Thanks.


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## laurenjane (Sep 1, 2013)

Thanks everyone, so here it is all re-done, I know it won't win any scaping awards any time soon but it's okay for a beginner. Just hoping I don't kill the plants, I can totally see how good plant growth will make or break this tank. I'm going to add something floating on top for more interest. Checking water parameters this morning, hoping for something good. Will let you know how it goes.


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## laurenjane (Sep 1, 2013)

Absolutely pumped... my tank is cycled this morning. Added some bacteria from a bottle yesterday that probably helped get it going again.

Off to order fish!!


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Keep feeding the bacteria until the fish come. 
Here is the fishless cycle. Just follow it to keep the bacteria growing and increasing. 

Cycle: To grow the beneficial bacteria that remove ammonia and nitrite from the aquarium.

Fish-In Cycle: To expose fish to toxins while using them as the source of ammonia to grow nitrogen cycle bacteria. Exposure to ammonia burns the gills and other soft tissue, stresses the fish and lowers their immunity. Exposure to nitrite makes the blood unable to carry oxygen. Research methemglobinemia for details. 

Fishless Cycle: The safe way to grow more bacteria, faster, in an aquarium, pond or riparium. 

The method I give here was developed by 2 scientists who wanted to quickly grow enough bacteria to fully stock a tank all at one time, with no plants helping, and overstock it as is common with Rift Lake Cichlid tanks. 

1a) Set up the tank and all the equipment. You can plant if you want. Include the proper dose of dechlorinator with the water. 
Optimum water chemistry:
GH and KH above 3 German degrees of hardness. A lot harder is just fine. 
pH above 7, and into the mid 8s is just fine. 
Temperature in the upper 70s F (mid 20s C) is good. Higher is OK if the water is well aerated. 
A trace of other minerals may help. Usually this comes in with the water, but if you have a pinch of KH2PO4, that may be helpful. 
High oxygen level. Make sure the filter and power heads are running well. Plenty of water circulation. 
No toxins in the tank. If you washed the tank, or any part of the system with any sort of cleanser, soap, detergent, bleach or anything else make sure it is well rinsed. Do not put your hands in the tank when you are wearing any sort of cosmetics, perfume or hand lotion. No fish medicines of any sort. 
A trace of salt (sodium chloride) is OK, but not required. 
This method of growing bacteria will work in a marine system, too. The species of bacteria are different. 

1b) Optional: Add any source of the bacteria that you are growing to seed the tank. Cycled media from a healthy tank is good. Decor or some gravel from a cycled tank is OK. Live plants or plastic are OK. Bottled bacteria is great, but only if it contains Nitrospira species of bacteria. Read the label and do not waste your money on anything else. 
At the time this was written the right species could be found in: 
Dr. Tims One and Only
Tetra Safe Start
Microbe Lift Nite Out II
...and perhaps others. 
You do not have to jump start the cycle. The right species of bacteria are all around, and will find the tank pretty fast. 

2) Add ammonia until the test reads 5 ppm. This ammonia is the cheapest you can find. No surfactants, no perfumes. Read the fine print. This is often found at discount stores like Dollar Tree, or hardware stores like Ace. You could also use a dead shrimp form the grocery store, or fish food. Protein breaks down to become ammonia. You do not have good control over the ammonia level, though. 
Some substrates release ammonia when they are submerged for the first time. Monitor the level and do enough water changes to keep the ammonia at the levels detailed below. 

3) Test daily. For the first few days not much will happen, but the bacteria that remove ammonia are getting started. Finally the ammonia starts to drop. Add a little more, once a day, to test 5 ppm. 

4) Test for nitrite. A day or so after the ammonia starts to drop the nitrite will show up. When it does allow the ammonia to drop to 3 ppm. 

5) Test daily. Add ammonia to 3 ppm once a day. If the nitrite or ammonia go to 5 ppm do a water change to get these lower. The ammonia removing species and the nitrite removing species (Nitrospira) do not do well when the ammonia or nitrite are over 5 ppm. 

6) When the ammonia and nitrite both hit zero 24 hours after you have added the ammonia the cycle is done. You can challenge the bacteria by adding a bit more than 3 ppm ammonia, and it should be able to handle that, too, within 24 hours. 

7) Now test the nitrate. Probably sky high! 
Do as big a water change as needed to lower the nitrate until it is safe for fish. Certainly well under 20, and a lot lower is better. This may call for more than one water change, and up to 100% water change is not a problem. Remember the dechlor!
If you will be stocking right away (within 24 hours) no need to add more ammonia. If stocking will be delayed keep feeding the bacteria by adding ammonia to 3 ppm once a day. You will need to do another water change right before adding the fish.
__________________________

Helpful hints:

A) You can run a fishless cycle in a bucket to grow bacteria on almost any filter media like bio balls, sponges, ceramic bio noodles, lava rock or Matala mats. Simply set up any sort of water circulation such as a fountain pump or air bubbler and add the media to the bucket. Follow the directions for the fishless cycle. When the cycle is done add the media to the filter. I have run a canister filter in a bucket and done the fishless cycle.

B) The nitrogen cycle bacteria will live under a wide range of conditions and bounce back from minor set backs. By following the set up suggestions in part 1b) you are setting up optimum conditions for fastest reproduction and growth.
GH and KH can be as low as 1 degree, but watch it! These bacteria use the carbon in carbonates, and if it is all used up (KH = 0) the bacteria may die off. 
pH as low as 6.5 is OK, but by 6.0 the bacteria are not going to be doing very well. They are still there, and will recover pretty well when conditions get better. 
Temperature almost to freezing is OK, but they must not freeze, and they are not very active at all. They do survive in a pond, but they are slow to warm up and get going in the spring. This is where you might need to grow some in a bucket in a warm place and supplement the pond population. Too warm is not good, either. Tropical or room temperature tank temperatures are best. (68 to 85*F or 20 to 28*C)
Moderate oxygen can be tolerated for a while. However, to remove lots of ammonia and nitrite these bacteria must have oxygen. They turn one into the other by adding oxygen. If you must stop running the filter for an hour or so, no problem. If longer, remove the media and keep it where it will get more oxygen. 
Once the bacteria are established they can tolerate some fish medicines. This is because they live in a complex film called Bio film on all the surfaces in the filter and the tank. Medicines do not enter the bio film well. 
These bacteria do not need to live under water. They do just fine in a humid location. They live in healthy garden soil, as well as wet locations. 

C) Planted tanks may not tolerate 3 ppm or 5 ppm ammonia. It is possible to cycle the tank at lower levels of ammonia so the plants do not get ammonia burn. Add ammonia to only 1 ppm, but test twice a day, and add ammonia as needed to keep it at 1 ppm. The plants are also part of the bio filter, and you may be able to add the fish sooner, if the plants are thriving.


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## laurenjane (Sep 1, 2013)

Thanks Diana!! It's still going quite well, I plan on doing a small water change tonight as the fish arrive tomorrow (basically just to get rid of the fish food at the bottom that has been keeping the ammonia up). Excited for fish and excited I have a cycled tank finally!! Then I can look at ordering my betta FINALLY.


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