# Will my floor hold a 120 gallon tank?



## icex (Dec 4, 2007)

I'm thinking about getting a 120 gallon tank that I saw at petsmart. The stand is rather pricey, so if anyone knows were to get one maybe off the internet cheaper let me know.

Anyway, I live in a double wide trailer. My floor is holding my 46 gallon tank fine, and holding a 800-1000 pound (its heavy however much it weighs) safe fine, all in differnt rooms. I was wondering, does anyone think my floor will support 120 gallons of water? I was thinking were the tank is long the weight would be evened out and the tank is 6ft long.. Anyone have any experience with this?


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## Florida_Larry (Jan 19, 2009)

yes but not in a trailer, i had a 300g in a 2nd floor apt. but built a custom stand for it to spread the weight out.
Trailers are not built the same way, that being said, depending on where you are setting it ( the tank )will make a huge difference.
You can find out where the main beams are located underneath, if the tank location is on one of them i would say no problems at all, if the tank will be located near the center, that is the joint between the two halves and where they Bolt together. If the tank sits lengthwise across the joint and between the bolt locations, that is the weakest point.

You do however have an advantage, you can crawl under the trailer and add supports fairly easily. you need not much more that a few Concrete blocks and some wedges to tighten up the support. use cedar wood shims btw.


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## icex (Dec 4, 2007)

Well the stand at petsmart is 6 ft, same as the tank. Thats why I was thinking that it would even out the weight. I could crawl up under there and add some cinderblocks on the ends of the tank I guess to support the weight?


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## Blown 346 (Dec 8, 2008)

Look at how the floor is constructed. It shouldnt have a problem supporting the weight, it is holding the rest of the structure up. As long as you have the tank running across the beams under the house you will be fine. 


Tank runs this way _______

Beams run this way ] ] ] ] ] ] You will be fine is you place the tank over beams this way.


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## icex (Dec 4, 2007)

I'm not srue how the beams are running truthfully. I know the floor isent sagging with the weight of my 46 gallon or the safe we have. I'll look sometime another.

Is there anywere I can buy a nice 5-6ft stand for this beast? Or will I have to buy the ugly one from petsmart or build one with some 2x4s?


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## Florida_Larry (Jan 19, 2009)

main beams run the length and are the primary support, and are beefy enough to not only support the structure, but to allow that structure to be hauled down the road at speed.

Transverse beams are the lighter weight beams, they run between the main support beams and out to the edge, The transverse beams running between the main beams are reasonably well supported, the outboard transverse beams are a weak point, BUT the house when set should have supports under the Main ( for leveling) and outboard transverse beams ( for support ). The outboard beams are also the primary points for the tiedowns.
so lets say you are putting it in your living room at the front.
against the wall by the entrance. That is a structualy weak point BUT also where the supports underneath are.
If you are locating it by an internal wall that say runs across the trailer and that wall terminates right near the center, then one end of the tank would be resting directly above a main beam, the other end is at the joint between the two halves, and should be on at least 2 transverse beams as a minimum. some worries there ( only worry about the joint end) but that could also be a support location as well underneath)

if you somehow managed to find a location almost dead center of a given half, that might be a concern, those beams are primarily only to keep the main beams set correctly, but you can add supports underneath very easily.

The only issue i would see with the stand is to make sure it is real wood, not Was-Wood, you know, the particle board stuff, MDF etc.

I overall would not worry to much, select your location, set up some auxillary supports under where the tank will be if needed, or if it makes you feel comfortable, get or build a decent stand, and enjoy it.


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## BlueLagoon (Jan 2, 2009)

Florida_Larry said:


> yes but not in a trailer, i had a 300g in a 2nd floor apt. but built a custom stand for it to spread the weight out.
> Trailers are not built the same way,


Larry: You really shouldn't answer a question that you have no idea about.


I live in a single wide ( 16x80 ), built in 1992. I have a 110 gal tank that sits on 1 beam. The tank is on a steel angle stand that concentrates all the weight to just the 4 corners. All I added to the floor was an additional sheet of 3/4" plywood ( main flooring is 3/4 plywood, so my flooring under the tank itself is 1.5" thick plywood ). My tank was setup for almost 2 years as a reef tank, which included 165lbs of live rock, 160lbs of sand and a refuge/sump tank under it that was a 29gal tank with an additional 40lbs of sand. I'd say I had quite a bit of weight and never had a problem.

Here is a pic of it just after setup 2 years ago ( tank size 48x24x22 ):










This pic is in my tank/storage room. If you look through the tank, you can see my livingroom. I have it setup simular as an "inwall" tank, only mine is "Behind wall" instead.


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## Florida_Larry (Jan 19, 2009)

the differance is in experience in setting a tank up in a trailer ( double wide in this case ) or knowing how trailers are contructed and set.
spent a few years setting both single and dbl wides, so i am very familiar with how the floor structure is built and how they are set.


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## BlueLagoon (Jan 2, 2009)

Florida_Larry said:


> main beams run the length and are the primary support, and are beefy enough to not only support the structure, but to allow that structure to be hauled down the road at speed.
> 
> Transverse beams are the lighter weight beams, they run between the main support beams and out to the edge, The transverse beams running between the main beams are reasonably well supported, the outboard transverse beams are a weak point, BUT the house when set should have supports under the Main ( for leveling) and outboard transverse beams ( for support ). The outboard beams are also the primary points for the tiedowns.


 
You think the transverse beams are weak, especially the outboard ends? Think about it for a minute. You have all the weight of the outer walls, setting on the outer ends of those trasverese beams, bouncing down the hi-way at 55 mph for hundreds of miles during delivery.

See my photo above, that tank end is facing the outer wall.





> The only issue i would see with the stand is to make sure it is real wood, not Was-Wood, you know, the particle board stuff, MDF etc.


Take a look at many of the stands you see at the petshops. They are made from MDF. I have personaly seen stands made of MDF, for as large as 125 gals ( 72x18 ). 

MDF is a matter of personal preference. If built properly and you wipe up your spills, they last for years.


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## BlueLagoon (Jan 2, 2009)

icex said:


> I'm not srue how the beams are running truthfully. I know the floor isent sagging with the weight of my 46 gallon or the safe we have. I'll look sometime another.
> 
> Is there anywere I can buy a nice 5-6ft stand for this beast? Or will I have to buy the ugly one from petsmart or build one with some 2x4s?


You can crawl under the floor and place a couple of small floor jacks and 4x4's if that will make you feel more secure. It wouldnt hurt anything, thats for sure.

As for a 5-6ft stand. You can not let the tank ends over hang the stand, so a 5ft stand wont due, if you have a 6ft tank. And a stand built for a 6ft tank, may not hold up to a 5ft tank, because most of the weight of a tank is at its corners. So if you have a 6ft tank, buy/build a 6ft stand. Take a look at the stand in my photo. The metal going across the center is so weak, I could made it bow a little, under the weight of my hand and some pressure. It is the corners holding all the weight. If you build a 6ft stand, you HAVE to make sure you have all the corners are level, left to right, front to back and cross corners diagnaly(sp?). All it takes is 1 corner to be 1/8" off and your going to spring a tank leak. 

Make sure what ever stand you get, that it sits level on the floor also. You might have to shim the stand. My photo shows some tile shims I used on the right end of the tank.


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## jus1time (Jan 27, 2009)

I have been in a double wide trailer where there were over 30 tanks. I asked the gentleman if there was any support under the floor, he just laughed at me and said what for, I have had these tanks set up for years with no problems. To tell you the truth i was kinda at a loss for words. I dont recommend doing that, but it worked for him. 
I also have several tanks set up on the second floor of my house with one of them being a 125 gal, so far so good. 
Len


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## kid creole (Dec 25, 2008)

BlueLagoon said:


> You can crawl under the floor and place a couple of small floor jacks and 4x4's if that will make you feel more secure. It wouldnt hurt anything, thats for sure.


Floor jacks have no business being part of the structure of a home.


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## kid creole (Dec 25, 2008)

jus1time said:


> I have been in a double wide trailer where there were over 30 tanks. I asked the gentleman if there was any support under the floor, he just laughed at me and said what for, I have had these tanks set up for years with no problems. To tell you the truth i was kinda at a loss for words. I dont recommend doing that, but it worked for him.
> I also have several tanks set up on the second floor of my house with one of them being a 125 gal, so far so good.
> Len



Homes are not coded to support that kind of weight. In the real world, they are overbuilt and codes have factors of safety, for reasons such as fish tanks, and this is fine.

There are two different questions, really. Will my tank crash through the floor today when I put water in it (no), and will my tank bend the floor in my house over the course of decades (yes). 

Wood is so commonly used because it won't snap in two readily. It will bend, and it will transfer stresses to places that weren't intended to carry the load but do so. To say a big tank has been ok somewhere for 2 years is different than saying that it won't cause more sag in the floor joists over 20 years than otherwise planned. These are all different concerns depending on the type of construction.


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## Blown 346 (Dec 8, 2008)

ICEX.....

Honestly I truthfully think you will be ok with your tank. Lie said above, the structure has to hold the weight of the house and its built to hold more also. A 125 tank wont break those limits. The stand evenly distributes the weight not all in one place. 

As for the stand. You can buy a solid oak stand for the tank, but they arent cheap. My 125 has a pine stand, it doesnt look bad. If you wanted it to look better you can always sand it down a bit and re stain it, that will change the look alot. 

Heres a pic of mine. Sorry the pic isnt brighter.









Here is a solid oak stand that I had for my 75. It was over $200.


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## BlueLagoon (Jan 2, 2009)

kid creole said:


> Those are meant to be used then removed. If the tank hasn't caused the floor to sag yet, there wouldn't be any need.


I have lived in houses that had jack holding the floors up, and been there for years. Had a pal that had a house built recently and has floor jacks in the basment. Where do you get your info from?


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## kid creole (Dec 25, 2008)

BlueLagoon said:


> I have lived in houses that had jack holding the floors up, and been there for years. Had a pal that had a house built recently and has floor jacks in the basment. Where do you get your info from?



Either they weren't jacks, or they weren't to code. Adjustable posts, maybe.


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## airborne_r6 (May 2, 2008)

This really isnt the correct place to be asking what your home can support. You should be asking the building manufacturer at a minimum and an engineer would be better. Internet forum "experts" cant see your house and generally dont have the experience or knowledge to answer correctly even if they could see your home.


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## BlueLagoon (Jan 2, 2009)

> Either they weren't jacks, or they weren't to code. Adjustable posts, maybe.


Nonsense. Both are the same. One is longer and made to help support the foor in a basement, the other is made to help support the floor in a crawl space. "Support" being the key word, not as a replacement for a foundation.

Photo thanx to: http://www.ellisok.com/ellisok/rescon.html









Above is what I am referring the OP to do, to make themselves feel better. And, it may not even be a bad idea to do, reguardless. Not alot of cost and perfectly legal to do in most area's.



> If the foundation of the home is in good shape, there is also a type of floor jack that is basically a solid metal pole with a flat end. The flat end is placed under the house’s main beam and *cranked* tightly into place. This solid post helps support the main joists and prevent sagging. Without proper attention, sagging or rotting floor joists will eventually collapse.


Quote taken from:
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-a-floor-jack.htm


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## icex (Dec 4, 2007)

Ahh I'm thinking about just getting a nanocube for salt water tank for my other room. The 120 tank is down the line. However, feel free to discuss if the floor will support the weight or not. It would be good for future people looking into this.


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## norcalnerd (Jan 23, 2009)

For anyone just tuning in, a 120g tank filled with water weighs almost .75 tons. In other words, 1500 lbs. That is before the substrate, equipment, etc.

I would always stick to over engineering. It will save the stress on your home, and its also fun to brag about and show your buddies.


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## Florida_Larry (Jan 19, 2009)

good.... all settled now ?

and Icex, enjoy your Nano, and pop a cold one for us.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

_Here is an idea. Calculate the weight of the FT, draw a map of where it is in the trailer, call the manufacturer of the trailer and ask them.

Or.... Hire a strucutral engineer to assist you._

I know everyone is trying to help here, but in the end, none of us are aware of the conditions as they exist and certainly cannot ascertain or make proper reccomendations for a condition that we have no control over. Your own experiences are your own.

This issue is closed.


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