# Multi chip leds diy



## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

I have been thinking about building a pretty easy and straight forward light fixture with 4 x 30w white cheap ebay leds to put over my ADA 90-p (36"). multi chip leds are commonly used for diy in the salt water hobby, but not amongst freshwater so much. 

Found some stuff on ebay that I think should be a neat combo. I´m stuck on a good driver for the fans though, any recomendations?
Total cost should be around $200-220 for 120 brutal watts.

The idea is to build a frame or box around the heatsink to reduce glare and hide the ugly computer fans. 
Do you think I need more power or maybe less power. Will the heatsink be able to cope with the heat? Would love some input on this. 
Just fyi, the only "feature" this fixture would have is being able to switch on/of the leds (1/4 or maybe 2/4) seperatly via timer if it turns out to be to bright.



600x120x20mm (24") heatsink









30W multi led + driver + lens/reflector


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

For the fans all you need is 12v power supply of any kind and wire them in parallel. You can get some 120mm fans that are dead quiet and will cool that heatsink easy. In fact you easily get away with one 120mm.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Ok, thx. I´ll look into that.


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## skanderson (Jul 25, 2010)

for what it is worth you can probably do the same type of build with a much better led for not much more cost. i am doing a 4 led light over my 100 gallon paludarium. i am using bridgelux bxra 20 watt 4k emitters and they are very efficient and have a nice white spectrum. the emitters are about 6 bucks, the meanwell dll drivers are 5, and the power supply was 30. add another 5 buck each emitter for a reflector and 5 bucks for modils to avoid having to solder anything and the total without the fan and heatsink is about 110. with the 4 20 watt emitters running at 1000mA im getting 100 par 48 inches below the emitters. i will be building a diy led for my 300 cube using 9 of the bxra1350 emitters which are 30 watts ea. just an idea.


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## poverty (Jul 8, 2013)

skanderson said:


> for what it is worth you can probably do the same type of build with a much better led for not much more cost. i am doing a 4 led light over my 100 gallon paludarium. i am using bridgelux bxra 20 watt 4k emitters and they are very efficient and have a nice white spectrum. the emitters are about 6 bucks, the meanwell dll drivers are 5, and the power supply was 30. add another 5 buck each emitter for a reflector and 5 bucks for modils to avoid having to solder anything and the total without the fan and heatsink is about 110. with the 4 20 watt emitters running at 1000mA im getting 100 par 48 inches below the emitters. i will be building a diy led for my 300 cube using 9 of the bxra1350 emitters which are 30 watts ea. just an idea.


Could you cite your sources? I'm also interested because I'm planning a shallow cube riparium with some emergent plants. I was looking at the 6500k 100w multichips and supplementing with some group buy LEDs for some added spectrum. 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

One of the major advantages of LED lights is their use of far less electricity than other types of lights. But, when you put 4 - 30 watt LEDs, driven at full power, over a 90P tank you are using more electricity than a T5HO light would use, so you lose the major advantage of LEDs. If you use a dimmable driver you can drop the power consumption way down, which you will have to do anyway to avoid growing mostly algae in the tank. But, why not just use lower power LEDs?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

These are the 5600K rectangular arrays

http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/br...arametricAttributeId=&prevNValues=2203+216532

You can do 2x of the 1100 ones with a meanwell LDD up to 1a or you can do 4x of them with the same driver if you do 2x series / parallel connection and run them at 500ma.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

skanderson said:


> for what it is worth you can probably do the same type of build with a much better led for not much more cost.


Thanks for the input.
The reason I chose the stuff I did is because I limited myself to ebay and found a seller with a nice basic kit. $33.50 for 30w led, driver, lens, reflector aint bad is it? Otherwise I would have to order stuff seperatly from different places. I was planning on using cree xp-g 30w chips but found the kit above wich felt like a fun place to start, but I´ll def look around, thanks for the links.



Hoppy said:


> If you use a dimmable driver you can drop the power consumption way down, which you will have to do anyway to avoid growing mostly algae in the tank. But, why not just use lower power LEDs?


I´m using 1 driver/timer per led so I´ll have 4 "power settings". Poor mans dimmer. 

Well, the multichips are made up by many lower power LEDs, so it´s all about the simplicity, availability and ease of use (I´m lazy). Those solderless cree strips look nice though, but are expensive.

I have been thinking about pros and cons of these multi chips, not shure if I´m on the right track but I´ll share anyway.

*Pros*

* Price/par value
* Availability
* Relatively easy to build with even for a non-genius
* Available in all different types, shapes and sizes. Full spectrum to rgb to single spectrum.
* Less fiddly when you want to use lenses or reflectors. 

*Cons*

* They get really hot
* Shimmer is an issue imho. My apartment is going to look like a pool house. Maybe diffuse the light by frostning the lens? 
* Quality/longivity of the cheap ebay stuff?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

So I went bananas and order a 150w cree chip, lens and driver. 

150w xp-g 6500-7000k with a dimmable driver









78mm lens 5-90 degree spread









Had this cpu cooler lying around so thought it would do the trick.


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

I hope you have a 20ft ceiling to hang this from &#55357;&#56883;

Post a build thread if you have time, I would be interested in what you come up with.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Wait wha? 150W on one chip? You trying to put a portable sun in your tank?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

vvDO said:


> Post a build thread if you have time


You bet. :thumbsup: The stuff should arrive in a few weeks so no hurry. 



gus6464 said:


> Wait wha? 150W on one chip? You trying to put a portable sun in your tank?


Bought a dimmable driver


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

The reflector, frame and lens has landed.


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## wastewater (Apr 5, 2010)

Wow! Welding glasses material, for sure.


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

Give me 1 million dollars or I will blow you up with my laser... Err... Blind you with my LED.

Kidding aside, how tall is the complete build?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Not sure were it will end up, but just the hardware as pictured maybe 30cm tall. I will need some sort of anti glare/lampshade device around the lens/lightsource.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Anyone know if rca audio cable connectors can be used with ~30v 4.5A? Looking for a clean and tidy connector that is easy use and readily available and got some rca cables lying around.


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## poverty (Jul 8, 2013)

I'm not an electrical engineer by any stretch but RCA's generally only handle low voltage. Their application is only to transport audio signals, not deliver any significant power. Will they work at first yes. Over time though the resistance may cause failure in your power supply. Speaker cable would be more appropriate than the RCA. There are also plenty of options for connectors as well. Just a humble opinion and by no means scientific. To be more specific your proposed application of the RCA cable is between your Power Supply and Drivers?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Thanks for the input!

The idea is/was to use rca connectors from driver to led. led group buy use 3,5mm plugs but thir driver is at most 1A


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Matsnork said:


> Thanks for the input!
> 
> The idea is/was to use rca connectors from driver to led. led group buy use 3,5mm plugs but thir driver is at most 1A


JUST the connectors..


> Current Rating 2 amps
> Max. Working Voltage 300 Vrms


http://www.belden.com/docs/upload/NP245.pdf

75ohm BNC CONNECTOR rating



> Current Rating 5 amp
> Max. Working Voltage 300 Vrms


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

How about a simple 2.5mm connector, same as for a power adapter or batterypack:










with










or


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Matsnork said:


> How about a simple 2.5mm connector, same as for a power adapter or batterypack:


http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...EpiMZZMtnOp%2bbbqA00%2bEHFRoiCocrGizKgE3eT/g=
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/761KS12/SC1381-ND/2238424?WT.mc_id=PLA_2238424


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Cool thx! Amp-specs and everything!


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Playing around with a 120mm fan and adjustable driver. Not the sexiest of hardware but will try to hide it later or something.


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

Scythe Ninja!  Awesome build.


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## RogueGeek (Jan 18, 2013)

For high current take a look at Anderson Powerpole connectors.
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

The Anderson plugs looks nice, but hard to find locally. Deans T-connectors however are readily available at local rc stores. Very simplistic design that looks pretty good.


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## mikez104 (Sep 27, 2013)

Your 150W chip is awesome! Where did you get that from?

The multichip LED panels work very nicely. I did an HQI metal halide to LED conversion on my JBJ 28 nano earlier this year for my reef tank. I love the halide light but the heat was hard to handle in such an enclosed hood that I had to run a chiller most of the year. 

The cool thing about these chips is that you can do some cool projects to control them. I built an Arduino based controller for mine that did sunrise and sunset and weather patterns. Here's a pic of the project in progress. Six 10W chips running on two Meanwell drivers.

I'm just starting out with planted tanks and am trying to set one up for my daughter. I may go the multichip route for her tank also. I'll definitely be following your thread. 

Here is a pic of my converted hood in progress.

IMG_7904.jpg by mikez104104, on Flickr


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

mikez104 said:


> Your 150W chip is awesome! Where did you get that from?


Hey, 

The chip is from an ebay seller, going to the post office to pick it up tonight so pics will be posted soon. It's nothing fancy with all the 'right' spectrums but imho plain cold white leds (~6500k ) works plenty good for plants. Would love to try a lumia chip in the future though mostly for the cosmetic color adjustements available. 

Your project looks really nice. You saltwater geeks are far ahead in the techy stuff  

Longer post later whem Im not at work and on the pocket computer.


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## micheljq (Oct 24, 2012)

That setup using CPU cooler is interesting. I have many old coolers and one of my friend has plenty of them that he can give me. That would cut the price of purchasing the heat sink for me. If I do a diy setup.

Michel.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Fresh out of the box. Starting to wonder if my old cpu cooler can handle this massive chip... The base is about 8x6.5cm










Must have made a really bad calculation somewhere  The chip is quite enormous.











micheljq said:


> That setup using CPU cooler is interesting.
> Michel.


They are very good for diy´s - easy to find dirt cheap or for free and flexible in possible uses. But bare in mind that they have a very limited cooling effect when run without a fan. My intel cooler could barely cope with a 10w led chip.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Copper shim in place. The adhesive has cured over night 









No great ideas how to attach the chip. Had to remove the computer mount so... I don´t want to glue it in place.


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## mikez104 (Sep 27, 2013)

I don't think you have too many choices there. You would either use the heat sink adhesive and glue it or use regular heat sink compound and try and strap it into place somehow. Too bad that shim wasn't a little bigger so you could screw the LED to it then glue the shim to the heat sink. I guess you could always use some type of wire/cable through those mounting holes on the 4 corners and wire it back to those fins on heat sink. 

I think I'd just glue it and be done with it.

Where do you apply power? Do you have to solder the wires to those two tabs on the front?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Thanks for the input mikez. I´m going to look into putting a threaded m2 rod or just a plain thick steel wire through the fins and up to the chip. If it doesnt work I´ll just glue it in place. The glue residue is so darn hard to remove if/when a remake is needed so not to keen on it.

Yes you got it right, the small tabs are negative and positive solder areas.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Drinking coffee and making two improvised brackets out of a m3 threaded rod. 









Some arctic silver heat transfer paste. 









Nuts and washers in place and tightened. Feels really secure!









Time to start working on cable routing.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

It's alive!!!


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## Aquaticus (Jan 7, 2013)

Looking great!


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Glad you like it. 

I´m in the process of scaping and testing a temporary wall mount for the light cannon. Still waiting on a suitable reflector and lens. The light is running at approx 10-15% capacity. The goal is to get the beam rectangular to fit the tank and stop those massive reflections of the wallpaper.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

So been testing the chip for a few hours straight while scaping and when running at about 50% (75w) without a fan the chip and base of the cooler barely gets warm and the light will most likely be enough when the reflector and lens get installed.


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## mikez104 (Sep 27, 2013)

Looking good. Love the way you mounted it to the heat sink. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Glad you like it. Still waiting on reflector and lens. Going to shop for 4-lead cable and connectors today.

More updates to come, stay tuned.


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## vvDO (Oct 18, 2010)

That looks bright, nice stand too. Are those lava rocks? 

Will you be able to check PAR levels?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Got my lens today, but sadly I made a blunder when ordering, didnt get the kit wich included reflector... :icon_neut



vvDO said:


> Are those lava rocks?


About 14k lumen according to seller, but Im not sure about that. 
Lavastones, yes. But they will not be piled like that. Have a look in my 90P thread for work in progress. 


vvDO said:


> Will you be able to check PAR levels?


No sorry. Guesstimating par will be a bit limited because of the distance to the aquarium.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Wanted to try the lens out so I made a temporary reflector out of an old plastic lid and aluminum tape. The improvement is quite dramatic irl, impossible to capture on camera. The light is very bright even on approx 20% power. 

I need to find a way to make the beam more rectangular so not to light up the wall so much.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Mail from Hong Kong with a ginourmous reflector.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)




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## HunterX (May 19, 2012)

This thing is massive. Any updates. Love the build.


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Nothing new to report, it´s been working great for over a year. 

New build in progress here: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=756666&highlight=


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## Remmy (Jan 10, 2007)

how are you powering the fan? seperate driver?


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## Matsnork (Jun 3, 2013)

Yes. I found an adjustable driver at the local electronics store. Cheap and simple solution  

I can post a more detailed description later.


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