# Ok, I installed my Co2 now what?



## Mxx (Dec 29, 2010)

We have no idea! You'd have to explain the other parameters of your set-up such as tank size and lighting specs, how bad of shape your plants are in, and how bad the algae is. And even then there are a lot of other parameters that will determine algae growth as well. Lots of healthy plant growth will certainly help with the algae, but to achieve that several different factors all come into play as well. Pictures help as well.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Co2 doesn't cure algae. You will have to grow new leaves, remove the old ones, or just buy new plants. CO2 is not a quick fix, it's essential from the start.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> Co2 doesn't cure algae. You will have to grow new leaves, remove the old ones, or just buy new plants. CO2 is not a quick fix, it's essential from the start.


Oh in that case I just wasted my money and I will have to remove and replace all my plants because I have green algae on like 90% of my plants and I have already cut many leave with the GA on it. I thought the CO2 would fix it in a few weeks or so. I did not know about CO2 when I started this tank. This is new for me so I am trying to learn. :icon_frow


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Mxx said:


> We have no idea! You'd have to explain the other parameters of your set-up such as tank size and lighting specs, how bad of shape your plants are in, and how bad the algae is. And even then there are a lot of other parameters that will determine algae growth as well. Lots of healthy plant growth will certainly help with the algae, but to achieve that several different factors all come into play as well. Pictures help as well.


Ok Sorry. I have a 10 gallon tank with the basic lighting that usually come with the Petco tanks. My plants are bad now, you can see the before and after pics attached. The green algae is just building up on the leaves. I have 6 neon tetras, 2 YoYo loaches, 2 Micky Mouse Plateys and 2 Pristella Platys. I been using Nutrafin Plant Gro for about 4 weeks. I do a 2 1/2 gallon water change every 2 weeks and my water parameters seen decent. 

This is how my tank looked about 4 weeks ago when I first put in my plants. I already had the small plants in the front.









Now about 5 weeks later this is how it looks.









































This is my new Fluval CO2 system I purchased.

















PLEASE HELP. Thank you. I am a noob here.

Rich


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

IMO, your first mistake was buying this fluval co2 system. It is cheap initially , but it eventually becomes very expensive refilling those small canisters, not to mention that the unit itself is not very good. Your second mistake is using normal fish lights. see how everything looks very neon? that light accents the fish colors, but doesn't help plant growth and is not bright enough. Look through some tank journals and see hwo the tanks are very well lit and look a more natural color. Then go into the lighting section and browse though threads and maybe post your own. Be careful not to use too much lighting though. The most basic key about maintaining plants is have a good balance between light co2 and nutrients. Too much light can cause major algae problems. Also, you might want to think about EI fertilizer dosing. Search for it in the fert and water parameters section.

But while your at it, wait a week and see if there is any new, healthy growth on the tops of the stems, if so, don't worry, everything will be fine. You just wait until the new growth gets tall, and then chop off the top of the stem at the point where the new growth began, then throw away the crummy bottom halfs, and replant the new stems in the substrate. If your plants don't grow back, it's probably because they are just dead, in which case you buy all new plants.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> IMO, your first mistake was buying this fluval co2 system. It is cheap initially , but it eventually becomes very expensive refilling those small canisters, not to mention that the unit itself is not very good. Your second mistake is using normal fish lights. see how everything looks very neon? that light accents the fish colors, but doesn't help plant growth and is not bright enough. Look through some tank journals and see hwo the tanks are very well lit and look a more natural color. Then go into the lighting section and browse though threads and maybe post your own. Be careful not to use too much lighting though. The most basic key about maintaining plants is have a good balance between light co2 and nutrients. Too much light can cause major algae problems. Also, you might want to think about EI fertilizer dosing. Search for it in the fert and water parameters section.
> 
> But while your at it, wait a week and see if there is any new, healthy growth on the tops of the stems, if so, don't worry, everything will be fine. You just wait until the new growth gets tall, and then chop off the top of the stem at the point where the new growth began, then throw away the crummy bottom halfs, and replant the new stems in the substrate. If your plants don't grow back, it's probably because they are just dead, in which case you buy all new plants.


OMG, wow that is a lot to do for some plant growth. Why is the CO2 system I have cheap? Isn't CO2, CO2 the same no matter how you give it? Is the CO2 in the Fluval different than the CO2 I would buy from another company? I know it is not a huge bottle but I can always upgrade in the future. I just wanted to try it out and see how it works since I am a noob.

Yea I want to get new lighting. That will be my next thing I buy. I am going to look into that soon. But I still do no know why I have so much green algae in my tank.

I am just going to get a better light and hten buy new plants. The plants I bought are shot. They look horrible now and new plants only cost me $10 online, the shipping was more expensive.


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## Mxx (Dec 29, 2010)

I suppose that you could also try overdosing with Seachem Excel to try and eradicate your algae and save your plants. 
http://www.aquariumslife.com/featured/algae-control-with-flourish-excel/
Adding some algae eaters will help in the long run as well.


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## Akira (May 21, 2008)

all CO2 is the same but how it is bottled, regulated and relesed is not. what you have is a non refillable system..you have to keep buying refills from fluval instead of being able to take your tank wherever and get it filled for much much cheaper..also the regular for the co2 isnt that good either...and like somones mentioned it...your lights arent helping the plants at all..


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## yellowsno (May 15, 2011)

best advice at this point is for you to tear down and try again... it happens to almost everyone who starts... best thing to do is to look around at other peoples journals and read to see whats needed then plan ahead with equipment substrates plants ... grab a piece of paper and a pencil and jot down what your aiming for in terms of equipment plants and stuff


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Akira said:


> all CO2 is the same but how it is bottled, regulated and relesed is not. what you have is a non refillable system..you have to keep buying refills from fluval instead of being able to take your tank wherever and get it filled for much much cheaper..also the regular for the co2 isnt that good either...and like somones mentioned it...your lights arent helping the plants at all..


Yea I know I am going to buy new lights soon when I see something I like and that is good for my tank. I will stick with the CO2 I have and see where it takes me over the next couple of months, if need be I will get something different. I do not like those ugly DIY setup. 

What are a good set of lights for a 10-20 gallon set up? I want to upgrade to a 20 so I want to get something for that


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Good, keep your co2 since you already have it, or at least until your bottle runs out, but I'm telling you, don't buy another bottle, throw it out and get a real co2 system. Also, what do you mean by DIY? If you mean yeast then I agree, do not do yeast. But I hope you are not referring to high-end pieced-together regulators as ugly. I build those and sell them here, and they are truly a thing of beauty.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> Good, keep your co2 since you already have it, or at least until your bottle runs out, but I'm telling you, don't buy another bottle, throw it out and get a real co2 system. Also, what do you mean by DIY? If you mean yeast then I agree, do not do yeast. But I hope you are not referring to high-end pieced-together regulators as ugly. I build those and sell them here, and they are truly a thing of beauty.


Now I am sad :icon_cry:. I just bought this thing for $50 on Saturday, I thought it would be good enough for a 10 gallon.

Anyway, yea I was referring to those yeast things in a used coke bottle. Maybe it works but I prefer something aesthetically better for my home. I do not mind regulators. I think I have a small on on my system thingy. I did not want to spend $200-300 on a CO2 system.


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## DvsDev (Dec 7, 2010)

You never know someone might make a bottle that will fit that co2 unit once it's been out for a while which will help with the price.
I don't think you bought wrong, you wanted to buy something that was easy to use, didn't need mixing of ingredients or searching for parts to make it work, which the fluval unit does.

As far as plants go I'd keep away from the red ones, they can be fert and light hungry.
I myself would do the light swap, the bulbs are probably due to be replaced soon enough (If not, it's a worthy investment) find some nice established low/medium light plants and look at some sort of fertilization.
I use clay ball fert things (sorry forgot name) I put one under each big plant I put in since I didn't do any substrate ferts and they seem to help a lot, keep your light hours down until the algae is sorted and whip your plants out, cut them down and put the healthier parts back in, dead leaves won't help the plants.(if you decide to try and keep them)


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## terran2k (Feb 24, 2009)

I remember my 1st attempt at a planted tank, it turned into an algae mess too. I had too much light and no co2. 
now on my 2nd attempt, algae seems under control, plants growing. hope it stays that way. using excel instead of co2, it's only a 10g tank, so the big bottle of excel will last me a long time.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Don't scrap the co2 system yet, there is a link somewhere in the forums (will try to find it later for you) that shows how to convert it to accept paintball bottles. 

what type of bulbs do your current fixture accept? If it is the incandescent fixture, replace the bulbs with "daylight" cfl bulbs, the hoods can be had from Walmart for cheap. This (if I remember correctly) will put you in the mid light category, so the co2 will be essential. Next fontal a look in the ferts section of the forum and read up on EI dosing. Getting good fertilization, co2 and light will help you immensely. We all go through this when starting so don't get deflated. 

Some essential equipment you will want to get is a drop checker so you can monitor co2 levels in the tank. (see theshrimplab.com, she has some good prices on them)


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## johnny313 (Apr 15, 2011)

the shadow in your 7th pic of the co2 system is what you need!


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## jahmic (Jan 30, 2011)

I don't think you did anything wrong by picking up the fluval setup. Chances are you'll need to replace some of the plants, but what you have is a good, inexpensive starting point to pressurized CO2. You basically ended up paying a little bit less than a full paintball setup; I actually went with the paintball option for my tank because I didn't want to dump a significant amount of money into a setup without knowing what I was getting into or if I'd be successful at figuring out CO2 and dosing.

I say replace the plants, and stick with what you have for a while. If/when you're ready to invest in a more expensive setup just do some research, figure out what you want, and slowly put together an upgrade. Nothing wrong with just getting your feet wet first


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Yes, if you can adapt for a regular co2 tank, do it. Lol johnny, that's what I'm talkin about! the shadow looks like the size of the tank that should be used.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DvsDev said:


> You never know someone might make a bottle that will fit that co2 unit once it's been out for a while which will help with the price.
> I don't think you bought wrong, you wanted to buy something that was easy to use, didn't need mixing of ingredients or searching for parts to make it work, which the fluval unit does.
> 
> As far as plants go I'd keep away from the red ones, they can be fert and light hungry.
> ...


Hi, yes you are right I wanted something easy to set up and get going right away. I actually found a thread here in this forum about this setup and a few guys have already done what you said (your a mind reader) by using these paintball canisters or something like that. You can see the thread here if your interested: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/119910-new-fluval-co2-kit-6.html

I think I might try that after I use this a couple of times and see what happens. Trial and error I guess, hopefully less error.

Do you have a suggestion for a light that is good for a 10-20 gallon more 20 because I am going to upgrade soon to a ADA 20 gallon rimless in a few months. Or should I just make my own DIY LED lights?

Maybe I am stupid but I just ordered more plants from aquariumplants.com and yes some are red but I like how they look, I will give it another try but with CO2 and hopefully a better light if I can find something decent.
I am going to throw out all the dead plants and any with algae when I get home tonight. 

I also ordered these pellets that you put in the substrate call Total Pellets. It says they provide Phosphate and all essential macro and micronutrients for luxuriant Aquarium Plant Growth. Iron and other essential micronutrients are chelated to assure effective uptake by plants. All aquarium plants need phosphate, however, most aquarium plants get adequate phosphate from fish foods and natural water sources.

I hope it is something good.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

terran2k said:


> I remember my 1st attempt at a planted tank, it turned into an algae mess too. I had too much light and no co2.
> now on my 2nd attempt, algae seems under control, plants growing. hope it stays that way. using excel instead of co2, it's only a 10g tank, so the big bottle of excel will last me a long time.


Hey that sounds good for you. I have a 10g also but this algae on he leaves sucks. Killing my plants. I bought Nutrafin plant food or whatever and not helping. Now I have CO2. Maybe I should try Excel. Do you have fish and, if so, how many?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> Don't scrap the co2 system yet, there is a link somewhere in the forums (will try to find it later for you) that shows how to convert it to accept paintball bottles.
> 
> what type of bulbs do your current fixture accept? If it is the incandescent fixture, replace the bulbs with "daylight" cfl bulbs, the hoods can be had from Walmart for cheap. This (if I remember correctly) will put you in the mid light category, so the co2 will be essential. Next fontal a look in the ferts section of the forum and read up on EI dosing. Getting good fertilization, co2 and light will help you immensely. We all go through this when starting so don't get deflated.
> 
> Some essential equipment you will want to get is a drop checker so you can monitor co2 levels in the tank. (see theshrimplab.com, she has some good prices on them)


yea I found that thread here http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/119910-new-fluval-co2-kit-6.html

Yea I have the orginal hood fixture from Petco that came with the tank and original bulb from October, 2010. I am not sure how long they last. I leave the light on for about 14 hours, usually in evening from 7pm to 8 am.

I guess it accepts basic flourscent bulbs, I am not sure. I know its 18"

Thanks for the the info. you gave me. 

Sorry typing fast, leaving work now.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> I leave the light on for about 14 hours, usually in evening from 7pm to 8 am.
> 
> I guess it accepts basic flourscent bulbs, I am not sure. I know its 18"


Woah!! that's why you have algae. You should have your lights on 10-12 hours max. and 7pm-8am???? why? and that's 13 hours

If you are going to upgrade to a rimless tank, you have to get special lighting that has a stand, hangs from the ceiling, or clips itself to the rim. It also has to have a clear cover in front of the light bulbs so the precipitation doesn't ruin the lights. Are you doing a high light, high tech tank? you have to if you want to grow red plants.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> Woah!! that's why you have algae. You should have your lights on 10-12 hours max. and 7pm-8am???? why? and that's 13 hours
> 
> If you are going to upgrade to a rimless tank, you have to get special lighting that has a stand, hangs from the ceiling, or clips itself to the rim. It also has to have a clear cover in front of the light bulbs so the precipitation doesn't ruin the lights. Are you doing a high light, high tech tank? you have to if you want to grow red plants.


Hi. Oh really that is to long huh? I did not think an extra 2 hours matter from 12-14. I said 14 because there are times its 14 hours. Depends if I forget to turn off. I will reduce the time to 12. I think I was over feeding my fish to.

I also just checked my light set up and its the Aqueon hood light with T8 and 15W. To low right??

Yea for the rimless I will be going with a ADA 60P which is like 18 gallons. and I will be going for an expensive LED or a DIY LED. which will be hanging from ceiling or from some type of hanger. I do not know what a High Tech tank is. Sorry.

What do you guys think about LED?

Thanks for the feedback from you guys.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> Hi. Oh really that is to long huh? I did not think an extra 2 hours matter from 12-14. I said 14 because there are times its 14 hours. Depends if I forget to turn off. I will reduce the time to 12. I think I was over feeding my fish to.
> 
> I also just checked my light set up and its the Aqueon hood light with T8 and 15W. To low right??
> 
> ...


Your lighting period would be optimal at 8-9 hours. I would get yourself a timer so that you will not have to set your lights, they will come on automatically. That light fixture gives you low light. which is probably a good starting point to get used to running the tank before going into a high light / tech tank. 

The LED fixtures (DIY) are very bright, a local friend of mine just had his tested with a par meter. It is sitting I think he said 30" above the TOP of the tank, and he had insane numbers even down at the substrate. They are good fixtures, but you are going to need a whole lot of higher end stuff to make it successful. A co2 system with a solenoid is going to be a must, since you will need to run the co2 higher, a good fertilizer program like EI to keep things in balance. Get your hands around the low light 10 gal first, and then when you feel your ready, and the 10 gal is stable pull out the LED's and high light.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> Your lighting period would be optimal at 8-9 hours. I would get yourself a timer so that you will not have to set your lights, they will come on automatically. That light fixture gives you low light. which is probably a good starting point to get used to running the tank before going into a high light / tech tank.
> 
> The LED fixtures (DIY) are very bright, a local friend of mine just had his tested with a par meter. It is sitting I think he said 30" above the TOP of the tank, and he had insane numbers even down at the substrate. They are good fixtures, but you are going to need a whole lot of higher end stuff to make it successful. A co2 system with a solenoid is going to be a must, since you will need to run the co2 higher, a good fertilizer program like EI to keep things in balance. Get your hands around the low light 10 gal first, and then when you feel your ready, and the 10 gal is stable pull out the LED's and high light.


Hi. Wow only 8-9 hours of light, thats interesting. I guess I can do that just leave the light on when I am home to enjoy it and off when I am at work and traveling to and from.

Someone mentioned that I go to Walmart and get a basic PC light set up there so I can use temporarily for the next couple of months.

Is my 15W light setup to low for the amount of plants I have in my tank?

What is a hight light / tech tank and a EI fertilization?


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> Hi. Wow only 8-9 hours of light, thats interesting. I guess I can do that just leave the light on when I am home to enjoy it and off when I am at work and traveling to and from.
> 
> Someone mentioned that I go to Walmart and get a basic PC light set up there so I can use temporarily for the next couple of months.
> 
> ...


The lights on both my aquariums turn on at 2pm, while I am at work and turn off at 11pm. The timers are easy to set, and cheap. This way you can get a good lighting period without interruption, and having to flip a switch. 

If you wanted more light, you can go to walmart and purchase the incandescent fixture which has two bulbs. Then use the 6500k or (daylight) CFL (the swirly bulbs) which would put you in a higher light category. It would require diligent fertilization and co2 injection in order to keep algae at bay though. 

Which plants do you have in the tank? I recognize a couple, but more info would be required to know how well your plants will do with the light you are providing. 

A highlight or High tech tank would be more intense lighting, co2 injection via pressurized system complete with solenoid, drop checker, and a good method of diffusing the co2 into the water, and a good fertilization method. The low tech would be more forgiving. It would be lower intensity light, minimal fertilization, and either no or very little co2 injection into the tank. The lower tech / low light method is perfect for beginners entering the planted arena. It is much more forgiving of mistakes, and a good basis to learn how aquatic plants grow and thrive. Jumping head first into a high light / tech tank for some is a recipe for disaster. the tank must be balanced to avoid algae, and to grow plants well. It is much less forgiving of mistakes. 

EI Fertilization also known as Estimative index fertilization. in short it is providing a non limiting amount of fertilizer to the water so the plants can take what they need to maximize growth. Many aquatic plants pull nutrients from the water instead of from the gravel. Most stem plants are this way. The fertilizers are usually dosed dry (although some mix solutions) each day. 

Here is the link to the method. 
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fertilizers-water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html

The best advice I can give is to research, research, research. this is not a hobby you can quickly jump into. There are many factors that should be taken into consideration. 

Keep going though, once you get enough information, everything just sort of clicks into place. And ask questions if you have them.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> The lights on both my aquariums turn on at 2pm, while I am at work and turn off at 11pm. The timers are easy to set, and cheap. This way you can get a good lighting period without interruption, and having to flip a switch.
> 
> If you wanted more light, you can go to walmart and purchase the incandescent fixture which has two bulbs. Then use the 6500k or (daylight) CFL (the swirly bulbs) which would put you in a higher light category. It would require diligent fertilization and co2 injection in order to keep algae at bay though.
> 
> ...


Hi. Wow lots of information and knowledge I learn on here. Thank you for giving all that info to me. I am glad I joined this forum. Patient people so far.

I presently have this cheap Fluval CO2 system just to get some experience with CO2 but I will upgrade to a paintball setup soon.

I just need to pick up a light this week I will try Walmart. But just to clear my head what do you think about something like this:
http://www.fosterandsmithaquatics.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+13822+19759&pcatid=19759

I don't mind paying $100 if its something decent for now. I wil not be upgrading my take for at least 3 or 4 months.

The plants I bought are as follows:
begin06Tiger Lotus, Red (Nymphaea zenkeri)
1 $5.49 $5.49FERT1TOTAL (75 pellets) Fertilizer
1 $10.99 $10.99po200Micro Sword "Narrow Leaf" (Lilaeopsis Mauritiana)(Pot)
1 $3.84 $3.84bp031Telanthera Rosefolia (Alternanthera reineckii)
1 $2.49 $2.49bp020Ludwigia Peruensis (Ludwigia peruensis aka Ludwigia glandulosa)
1 $2.99 $2.99
Thank again.


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## drbotts (Apr 10, 2011)

Ok, Uptown. I am recently into planted tanks as well and I really want to give you the advice I was given. Buy the right parts first, you'll save money in the long run.

Lighting:
There are a lot of options. If you want the best, at a great price buy it from this guy. Call the store (I did) and tell him what you have and he'll tell you exactly what you need. He's not going to upsell you... he knows this hobby. Catalina Aquarium

Substrate:
Buy Either Eco Complete or ADA Aquasoil. There are SOOO many other DIY and cheaper options but I'm telling you.. this is the easiest, good product to get a hold of in your stage of the game. You can investigate other substrates later but this will feed nutrients and look amazing.

Co2:
The only problem with your Co2 setup is the cost to replace canisters. Get a good deal on that, and you are fine. Do not buy a Paintball setup. I like them, smart idea for some but in your position... pay for the pressurized tank. When you upgrade to paintball, you will end up going down this route eventually. Why not skip the step. I'm building mine but if you want me to point you towards who on here can help with that, PM me. 

Fertilization:
A cheap-o way to put good nutrients into the soil, I have found, is buying these empty gel capsules on Amazon.com Get the OO or O size. Then, order yourself some Osmocote Plus. Pack a couple and stick them under the soil every few months. Saves you from buying $1+ substrate fertilizer tabs. 

Testing:
Get yourself a good test kit. 


There may be some folks that dispute these things but listen.. I'm new and I have been researching this stuff and listening to opinions like crazy. This is just my opinion and it worked for me. I know I've saved money by doing certain things and skipping steps and my tank is working out well. By the time you get through some of this, you'll be researching on your own.

Best Advice: Research. That's part of the fun in this hobby. Also, Don't buy cheap stuff.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

drbotts said:


> Ok, Uptown. I am recently into planted tanks as well and I really want to give you the advice I was given. Buy the right parts first, you'll save money in the long run.
> 
> Lighting:
> There are a lot of options. If you want the best, at a great price buy it from this guy. Call the store (I did) and tell him what you have and he'll tell you exactly what you need. He's not going to upsell you... he knows this hobby. Catalina Aquarium
> ...


Hi Dr., I already have the Eco Complete substrate and I feel it works very good. My plants to grow nicely in my tank. When I upgrade to the 60p I will use the ADA Aquasoil.

I will give Catalina a call when they open today and see what he recommends me to get. I was browsing through his website and I saw some fluorescents that were 30W and 40W but the problem is they are not available in 18" So I guess that is why I cannot get that wattage now my present hood, sucks. Let me see what he says.

What is a good test kit that will give me all the readings from one test?

Yea your are right about buying cheap equipment. I try to buy the best or at least close to it which I can afford. I have been researching ever since I bought this tank back in October, 2010 and I have learned a lot. There is just so much to learn when it comes to maintaining a perfect tank, who would have thought. At this point I just want to get a decent light to hold me over for a few months and get rid of this algae on the leaves.

Thanks for your advice and feedback.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Noahma said:


> The LED fixtures (DIY) are very bright, a local friend of mine just had his tested with a par meter. It is sitting I think he said 30" above the TOP of the tank, and he had insane numbers even down at the substrate.


first off Noah it's 40 inches above the substrate lol. And second off i love my DIY LED fixture.... that being said

I think you should just keep your co2 system going for about a month and see what happens. The worst thing you can do to a planted tank imo is to keep making a lot of changes. Just keep your co2 running and reduce your lighting to about 8 hours and wait a month. If things get better then you're in the right path if not then make more changes. 

I do suggest to get a drop checker too because it gives you a good estimation to how much co2 you have.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> first off Noah it's 40 inches above the substrate lol. And second off i love my DIY LED fixture.... that being said
> 
> I think you should just keep your co2 system going for about a month and see what happens. The worst thing you can do to a planted tank imo is to keep making a lot of changes. Just keep your co2 running and reduce your lighting to about 8 hours and wait a month. If things get better then you're in the right path if not then make more changes.
> 
> I do suggest to get a drop checker too because it gives you a good estimation to how much co2 you have.


Hi Rock,

Do you have a build thread on your DIY LED, I would like to build my own, if and only if it is good for plant growth.

I will keep my CO2 system for now and possibly upgrade in a few months. So far its been connect for 4 days and it is reading 950psi. Last night I turned on my lights at 6 pm and turn it off at 3am. I need to get a timer so I don't have to bother with it myself.

I personally believe that (1) I have been leaving my lights on way too long; (2) feeding my fish way to much food; and (3) do not have sufficient lighting, all of which I have learned, from forum members here, is a huge part of my algae growth on my plant leaves as well as my driftwood.

What is a drop checker? On my CO2 system I see that I am getting about 1 bubble and 3 seconds. isn't enough of a checker by seeing the bubbles coming out?

Thanks.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

in my signature i have a link to my DIY 29 gallon LED thread.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

What about any of these two lights. Very inexpensive. Anyone?

http://www.aquatraders.com/Odyssea-20in-4x18W-T5-HO-Light-Fixture-Extendable-p/52302.htm

http://www.aquatraders.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=51107


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> in my signature i have a link to my DIY 29 gallon LED thread.


oh ok kool.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I have been doing some research and I found out the following:

"Take a 10 gallon tank, by the math you could put 2 - 18 watt Normal Output Flourescent bulbs over it and have 3 + WPG "mathematically" but you still only have 18 watts of "intensity. You will not be able to grow many varieties of plants successfully in this tank even though you are at the 3 WPG that we are looking for. Now if you take that same 10 gallon tank and put a 1 X 36 watt Compact flourescent over it you now have the same amount of watts total but you have 36 watts of "Bulb Intensity" in which you can grow virtually any plants you choose."

"The WPG Rule is very general and some thought needs to be put into lighting choices before setting up your tank, but always keep in mind that plants need the "Watt Intensity of the Bulb" to be successful, as well as WPG."

Based on the foregoing and based on my 10 gallon tank that will be planted with red colored plants and some green, would the 1x36W be good enough for me or would the 4x18W be better for me?

Thanks.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

> What about any of these two lights. Very inexpensive. Anyone?
> 
> http://www.aquatraders.com/Odyssea-2...le-p/52302.htm
> 
> http://www.aquatraders.com/PhotoGall...ductCode=51107


Those lights get generally good reviews. I have one and I am completely satisfied with the purchase, especially for the price. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/lighting/137197-odyssea-lights-review.html


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Ok well scratch everything I just typed. I just spoke with Mark who is the owner of Aquariumplants.com which is where I buy my plants and I told him that all my plants died due to green algae, however, I am not positive that was the cause. He confirmed what some of the members here said which is to go to Lowes or HD and pick up 2 clips on light fixtures and a 4pak of 75W PC spiral lights (Bright Blue, Blue Effects) 6,500 Kelvin. I thought that 75W would be too high but he said to hang them about 8" from the top of tank. So I guess that is what I am going to do until I upgrade to a ADA Rimless. 

I mentioned something about getting LEDs and he said do not ever use LED for plants because you will not get the same result and the savings in money will be pennies. he recommended T5 or MH and that PC are on their way out.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> Ok well scratch everything I just typed. I just spoke with Mark who is the owner of Aquariumplants.com which is where I buy my plants and I told him that all my plants died due to green algae, however, I am not positive that was the cause. He confirmed what some of the members here said which is to go to Lowes or HD and pick up 2 clips on light fixtures and a 4pak of 75W PC spiral lights (Bright Blue, Blue Effects) 6,500 Kelvin. I thought that 75W would be too high but he said to hang them about 8" from the top of tank. So I guess that is what I am going to do until I upgrade to a ADA Rimless.
> 
> I mentioned something about getting LEDs and he said do not ever use LED for plants because you will not get the same result and the savings in money will be pennies. he recommended T5 or MH and that PC are on their way out.



I totally disagree with his views on LED's because my plants have exploded in growth and my energy bill is much happier than it was before. I get pearling about an hour after light come on. 

Also i think 75 watts over a 10 gallon is way too much even at 8 inches.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> I totally disagree with his views on LED's because my plants have exploded in growth and my energy bill is much happier than it was before. I get pearling about an hour after light come on.
> 
> Also i think 75 watts over a 10 gallon is way too much even at 8 inches.


Yea I kinda disagree to but I will get like 40W and I thought LED was good for planted and less energy. He old school I think.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> Yea I kinda disagree to but I will get like 40W and I thought LED was good for planted and less energy. He old school I think.


LED's have changed a lot and have become a lot more powerful. But i do know my plants have been growing much better then they were before and my lighting is much more even spread than with my T5HO lights i had before.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I eventually want to do a LED but I want my set up to look professional and I do not think I can do that with a DIY with all the wires sticking out like I have seen on other members here.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Rockhoe14er said:


> LED's have changed a lot and have become a lot more powerful. But i do know my plants have been growing much better then they were before and my lighting is much more even spread than with my T5HO lights i had before.


and from what you told me the other day, you and your neighbors never need to use lights again lol. I am working forward on my LED pendant too. 




Uptown193 said:


> I eventually want to do a LED but I want my set up to look professional and I do not think I can do that with a DIY with all the wires sticking out like I have seen on other members here.


There are ways to make it work. I am getting ready to setup a pendant LED light for my Flora, the one requirement my wife has is to 1. not spend much money lol and 2. it must look nice and fit with our decor. I have a great idea, just need to see how well it will work.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> There are ways to make it work. I am getting ready to setup a pendant LED light for my Flora, the one requirement my wife has is to 1. not spend much money lol and 2. it must look nice and fit with our decor. I have a great idea, just need to see how well it will work.


Tell your wife I completely agree with her as far as "must look nice and fit with decor"


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> Tell your wife I completely agree with her as far as "must look nice and fit with decor"


That will give her a chuckle. So far the tanks all fit in well with the furniture and look quite nice. (Just need to replace the stand the flora is on)


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I am curious when you guys say get a CFL that is 23W is that the one that is equal to 100W and 6,500K like this one here? I am confused.
http://www.1000bulbs.com/product/53632/FC23-FEIIS23W64.html


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## metallicanick78 (Apr 26, 2011)

I just did this, I got a clip on from home depot and a spiral CFL bulb that was rated at 27watts but the box says its equal to 120 watts of incandecent light at 6700k. That adds 27watts of light to your tank, not 120.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

metallicanick78 said:


> I just did this, I got a clip on from home depot and a spiral CFL bulb that was rated at 27watts but the box says its equal to 120 watts of incandecent light at 6700k. That adds 27watts of light to your tank, not 120.


Oh ok. So is that the only light your using or are you using a hood light as well? I ask because I do not think that one 27W = 120W will be sufficient to cover the whole tank unless its a 5 gallon.

I am going to buy 2 20W = 75W CFL bulbs and 2 clip-ons.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Well I got 2 100W = 23W CFL with 6700K:










I do not like how it looks so I think I will return and get this
http://www.hellolights.com/201x96wcoralifefreshwateraqualightcfhoodwquad6700k-squarepin.aspx


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

I really have never liked how that style fixture looks. I am using a clamp on desk lamp over my Fluval Flora, it is mounted to the wall using some wall anchors. It looks decent, and works well. Just remember to raise whatever you have off the tank top a bit, over lighting a tank is an easy mistake to make.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> I really have never liked how that style fixture looks. I am using a clamp on desk lamp over my Fluval Flora, it is mounted to the wall using some wall anchors. It looks decent, and works well. Just remember to raise whatever you have off the tank top a bit, over lighting a tank is an easy mistake to make.


Are you referring to the link to the light or my new fancy clip-on lights lol.

Yea I already put my my original hood. I should have listened to my gf in Home Depot, she said it was ugly then. All I said was its just temporary. yea very temporary, 10 mins. 

Do u think that like in the link I posted is good. It is 1 CP at 96W?


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> Are you referring to the link to the light or my new fancy clip-on lights lol.
> 
> Yea I already put my my original hood. I should have listened to my gf in Home Depot, she said it was ugly then. All I said was its just temporary. yea very temporary, 10 mins.
> 
> Do u think that like in the link I posted is good. It is 1 CP at 96W?


lol the clip on lights. I have no idea about compact florescent (the fixture in your link) It might be too much light.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> lol the clip on lights. I have no idea about compact florescent (the fixture in your link) It might be too much light.


Oh well I already disconnect the clip-on light. Just not for me. Retuning and getting my money back.

Yea i think 96W might be a lil too much light but I am keeping red plants and I can use the brackets on the light so it is raised 2". Which might bring it down a bit. I looked at Hoppy's chart on lighting and it says 1 tube of CF at about 12" is medium light.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Ima get this
http://www.hellolights.com/241x65wcoralifefreshwateraqualight1x6700k-straightpin.aspx


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## DvsDev (Dec 7, 2010)

That looks cool... But have you seen the guys 3 light diy setup over a 10g, I think it's called "diy light for 10g" or something very much like that (sorry multitasking on iPhone isn't too flash).
3x individual down lights mounted to a base, looks pretty nice and looks like it works well, depending in your skill level you could customize it even more and fit blue LEDs later for when the main lights are off


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Is is a bad thing to put a couple of blue LEDs for a cool night/evening effect in your tank if you have plants?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Ok is final I ordered a 24 inch SILVER SOLAR T5 HO AQUARIUM LIGHT FIXTURE from Catalina Aquarium but with 2 x 24W 6500K bulbs. Oh and with German reflectors.

http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=71_136&products_id=1410

Let the growing begin!


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## Dave-H (Jul 29, 2010)

That is gonna be a lot of light for a 10g, no?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> Is is a bad thing to put a couple of blue LEDs for a cool night/evening effect in your tank if you have plants?


As long as they aren't very bright, it shouldn't hurt. Fish and plants need a dark period to sleep and rest tool


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Dave-H said:


> That is gonna be a lot of light for a 10g, no?


I do not think so due to the fact that I have a lot of red plants in my tank and I have CO2 and more importantly, I will be upgrading my take to a 20g in a couple of months. So I figured to buy this now and save time and money, no?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> As long as they aren't very bright, it shouldn't hurt. Fish and plants need a dark period to sleep and rest tool


Yea I thought I give it a moon effect. I have a light that is a one white LED that I leave hanging in the tank when the lights are out. Maybe I will just keep that as my moon light. Can fish see in the dark? I never thought about that before.


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## DvsDev (Dec 7, 2010)

Might as well buy the size you'll be needing now than having to buy another light in a month or so.
I have blue lights in my light hood, my main light turns off at 8pm then my blue lights are on until 10:30, that way I get to watch my nocturnal fish doing their thing and main light cycle is kept shorter.

What about this for an idea, feel free to ignore it, why don't you buy another 10g and sit it next to the other one so you are using all the light and set one up as a different style, maybe a Dutch setup or one with cherry shrimp and one with another color shrimp?
Could look cool, no?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> Yea I thought I give it a moon effect. I have a light that is a one white LED that I leave hanging in the tank when the lights are out. Maybe I will just keep that as my moon light. Can fish see in the dark? I never thought about that before.


Total darkness isn't good unless you are a blind cave fish. I don't have any moon lights, but if I do, I'll make them very dim like real moonlight and not bright blue. A blue to red-orange to white light transition would be interesting for a fully programed LED lighting system. I'm looking at some cheap 12 vdc LED hobby strips that they use on radio controlled model planes. I'll try and get the voltage as low as possible that will still reliably turn on the strip. I'm going to use the white ones with an old wallwart.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

I use some pretty nifty moon lights in my Flora, I will post the info later this eve after I leave the office. I also have done a DIY moon light for my 36 gal tank. Both turn on at 10:30, lights go off at 12:00, and the moon lights turn off at 2:00. The fish mostly are active even with just the moon lights being on. My threadfins and GBR's go and sleep in their corner of the tank, the Gourami stalks the tank for left over food lol. Fun to watch, and makes the tank look very different.


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## eser21 (Apr 19, 2011)

woah, an interesting thread. i have to say that i am amazed, unless i missed it... that no one has said to get some algae eaters (if they did, sorry). I have a 55g with 2 wpg, pressurized co2 and have plenty of green fuzzy algae on my bog wood and on the plant leaves. In my experience excel made this situation worse, every time i dosed (before prssurized co2) the algae bloomed for 3-4 days. Now my gold nugget pleco does a lovely job on the bogwood to make it spotless, SAE sorts the plants and the otos clean the glass. I'm no guru, but dont be scared of algae, doesnt matter how good your tank is as long as there is water in it then there will be algae, its just about managing it to a reasonable level. Oh and be sure to get true otos and true SAE's otherwise they will just eat the algae off the seals on the tank and not touch the plants, learnt that the hard way!!

If you would like a whole bunch of good info in one place including lighting, apart from this site then visit www.rexgrigg.com His site will explain most of the questions you might still be unsure about. There is also an interesting bit about how the WPG rule only really works on middle sized tanks....

As for moonlighting... IMO my plecos and otos wont really start feeding under moonlighting, only once total darkness comes they do there business as in the morning any build up has gone. Also it is good to have a natural lighting cycle in your tank, as anyone who has been night diving, moonlight doesnt really penetrate the water at all, total darkness is a normal process and seems to also help fish stress levels...?


Just remember if it was easy it would be boring


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DvsDev said:


> Might as well buy the size you'll be needing now than having to buy another light in a month or so.
> I have blue lights in my light hood, my main light turns off at 8pm then my blue lights are on until 10:30, that way I get to watch my nocturnal fish doing their thing and main light cycle is kept shorter.
> 
> What about this for an idea, feel free to ignore it, why don't you buy another 10g and sit it next to the other one so you are using all the light and set one up as a different style, maybe a Dutch setup or one with cherry shrimp and one with another color shrimp?
> Could look cool, no?


Yea that is what I did. the good part is that the light I purchased today have legs that can be adjusted for my size tank now of 20" and new tank in future of 24".

That is a kool idea of shutting off your main lights a couple of hours earlier so that you can enjoy the moon/LED lights before bed and watch the nocturnal fish.

I noticed that when I turn off my light and leave my one LED moon light on I see my Neon Tetra fish come out from the back and swim around. I did a Google search on these fish and nothing came up as being nocturnal.

I do not know about 2 10g tanks. I barely have time for my one 10g now with full-time work and night school. :eek5:


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> Total darkness isn't good unless you are a blind cave fish. I don't have any moon lights, but if I do, I'll make them very dim like real moonlight and not bright blue. A blue to red-orange to white light transition would be interesting for a fully programed LED lighting system. I'm looking at some cheap 12 vdc LED hobby strips that they use on radio controlled model planes. I'll try and get the voltage as low as possible that will still reliably turn on the strip. I'm going to use the white ones with an old wallwart.


What the hell is a wallwart? lol


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Those annoying squarish plastic looking power supplies people use for charging their cell phones, etc. Looks like a large grey cubical wart on you wall outlets.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

eser21 said:


> woah, an interesting thread. i have to say that i am amazed, unless i missed it... that no one has said to get some algae eaters (if they did, sorry). I have a 55g with 2 wpg, pressurized co2 and have plenty of green fuzzy algae on my bog wood and on the plant leaves. In my experience excel made this situation worse, every time i dosed (before prssurized co2) the algae bloomed for 3-4 days. Now my gold nugget pleco does a lovely job on the bogwood to make it spotless, SAE sorts the plants and the otos clean the glass. I'm no guru, but dont be scared of algae, doesnt matter how good your tank is as long as there is water in it then there will be algae, its just about managing it to a reasonable level. Oh and be sure to get true otos and true SAE's otherwise they will just eat the algae off the seals on the tank and not touch the plants, learnt that the hard way!!
> 
> If you would like a whole bunch of good info in one place including lighting, apart from this site then visit www.rexgrigg.com His site will explain most of the questions you might still be unsure about. There is also an interesting bit about how the WPG rule only really works on middle sized tanks....
> 
> ...


I thought about algae eaters but they are so damn ugly looking. lol. Actually I bought 2 YoYo Loaches which I was told that would eat some of the algae in my tank but from what it looks like they do not eat any of it. I could be wrong. I also bought a Bamboo Shrimp which are very nice to have and look at but when I came home from work 2 weeks ago my other fish had a shrimp dinner. I have no idea what happened to the shrimp. It seems like he got jumped by the YoYos and was eaten alive. I would love to have seen a video on how that went down.

I am not scared of the algae but I do not like it and I do no want it on my plant leaves or DW. All of my plants died from it. So hopefully his new light I ordered will help in that department.

I do not know anything about Plecos or Otos or even SAEs.

I just recently got a small CO2 system, ordered new plants being delivered tomorrow and new light on its way. Lets see what happens now.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> Those annoying squarish plastic looking power supplies people use for charging their cell phones, etc. Looks like a large grey cubical wart on you wall outlets.


OHHHHHHHH, lol ok.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> I use some pretty nifty moon lights in my Flora, I will post the info later this eve after I leave the office. I also have done a DIY moon light for my 36 gal tank. Both turn on at 10:30, lights go off at 12:00, and the moon lights turn off at 2:00. The fish mostly are active even with just the moon lights being on. My threadfins and GBR's go and sleep in their corner of the tank, the Gourami stalks the tank for left over food lol. Fun to watch, and makes the tank look very different.


Where u get ur moon lights?


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> Where u get ur moon lights?


http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753104

get the hub and up to 3 blue lights, the lights are submersible. I have mine at the top of the tank pointed to get good cover. work really well.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753104
> 
> get the hub and up to 3 blue lights, the lights are submersible. I have mine at the top of the tank pointed to get good cover. work really well.


Oh ok kool. Thanks


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

My fish tank redux. If anyone has any suggestions please feel to tell me or even rant and vent if need be. Thank you.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

That is a great layout. The only thing I would add would be a good low foreground cover, especially since you are going high light. marsilea quadrifolia is my all time favorite foreground cover and works well in all light levels.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

I'd be real concerned with those clamp on lamps. If you don't have a cover, it wouldn't take much for them to become dislodged and fall into the water. God forbid you happen to be working in there at the time.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> That is a great layout. The only thing I would add would be a good low foreground cover, especially since you are going high light. marsilea quadrifolia is my all time favorite foreground cover and works well in all light levels.


Hey thanks. I actually have on the front right side 4 bulbs of the Tiger Lotus plant waiting to sprout. Does anyone know how long it will take for the bulbs so start sprouting?

You think I should cut down the Micro Swords a lil ? 

I am going to Google that plant you mentioned to see how it looks.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> I'd be real concerned with those clamp on lamps. If you don't have a cover, it wouldn't take much for them to become dislodged and fall into the water. God forbid you happen to be working in there at the time.


Yea you are right 100%. I am going to put something there in the mean time. I am waiting to get my light from Catalina I hope on Tuesday. SO I hope nothing happens between now and then. Pray for me. 

FWIW the clamps are on there really hard. I tried to move it as a test and they did move when the lights go out I will take them down and put up the hood for night time.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Hi all, I just received my Catalina in my office today. I don't know if its gay to post a pic of my new light but I did anyway while I was at work. I am excited this is my first real aquarium light other than the Aqueon hood T8 light.


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## Akira (May 21, 2008)

I don't see how it would be at all homosexual to post a pic of your light


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Akira said:


> I don't see how it would be at all homosexual to post a pic of your light


No comment. :bounce:


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

With flash









Without flash


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Nobody like my light :-(


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## raqg35 (Jun 22, 2010)

What catalina light is that? Looks like a T5 HO. I'm afraid that will be way to much light for that tank. If it is, that's okay you can make adjustments (like using insect screen to reduce the intensity) but you really need to slow down and do research.

It seems like you're going to go from to much algae due to a long photo period to too much algae due to way to much light.


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## DvsDev (Dec 7, 2010)

I like it, looks pretty good, still planning on the two tanks?


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## eser21 (Apr 19, 2011)

Probably a bit late now, but I had green algae over everything 3 times worse than that, dropped in 5 SAE and in 2 days it was spotless. Just got to figure out how to get rid of the mature hair algae now? Stuburn stuff!!!


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

My 5 otos have dwindled down to 2 :icon_cry:

Looks like I'm gonna have to get some SAE & snail action going pretty soon myself.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> My 5 otos have dwindled down to 2 :icon_cry:
> 
> Looks like I'm gonna have to get some SAE & snail action going pretty soon myself.


Hey sorry to hear that. How did they die? Also, I heard that a UV Sterilizer help a lot with green algae. What you think about that anyone. I might pick one up this weekend.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

raqg35 said:


> What catalina light is that? Looks like a T5 HO. I'm afraid that will be way to much light for that tank. If it is, that's okay you can make adjustments (like using insect screen to reduce the intensity) but you really need to slow down and do research.
> 
> It seems like you're going to go from to much algae due to a long photo period to too much algae due to way to much light.


Hi, it is the Catalina Solar and it is a *2x24" with 6500K*. You really think it is took much light? it is only 48W total and the intensity is not 48W since it is 2x24. It looks perfect on my tank, especially since I have and like to keep red colored plants. 

You might be right, but I am suppose to upgrade to a 20g tank soon so I bought this for the time being.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DvsDev said:


> I like it, looks pretty good, still planning on the two tanks?


Thanks. No no 2 planted tanks at least. I want to get the 20g rimless and transfer the plants and fish over. Then work on a coral reef tank. :icon_lol:


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

eser21 said:


> Probably a bit late now, but I had green algae over everything 3 times worse than that, dropped in 5 SAE and in 2 days it was spotless. Just got to figure out how to get rid of the mature hair algae now? Stuburn stuff!!!


Hi, what is SAE and what do you think about a UV sterilizer? I seen one in a tank with CO2 and the water was clear as hell.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

(True) *S*iamese *a*lgae *e*ater. You don't want a Chinese algae eater.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> (True) *S*iamese *a*lgae *e*ater. You don't want a Chinese algae eater.


Oh ok thanks, no I do not think so also, plus I already have 12 fishes but 6 of them are neon tetras which is equivalent to about 3 fish so say I have about 10 fish in total.

What is I buy one otos


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Does anyone recommend me returning my YoYo loaches? I have plants and they like to dig in my plants to much and they killed my $10 Bamboo Shrimp. I like the YoYo's because they swim around a lot and give life to the tank but I d not want them messing up my plants. What do you guys suggest?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> What is I buy one otos


Otocinclus don't do well if they aren't in a school. You would need several to keep 'em all happy.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> Otocinclus don't do well if they aren't in a school. You would need several to keep 'em all happy.


Oh ok gotcha


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Hi, I just purchased a UV sterilizer which has a small power head and I like how it makes the leaves on the plants move. Does anyone know if there is a problem with using a UV sterilizer with a planted tank? I heard it will help with algae as well.

Oh and I would also like to ad that I purchased Seachem Flourish and it says use a cap full for every 60g, which is hard to believe. Is this stuff that strong? I have 10 g so do I only use like 4 drop of this or one thread line inside the cap?


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## DvsDev (Dec 7, 2010)

I'd invest in a syringe for dosing, that's what I use, works really well and it's a lot easier to read.
Uv should be fine but for it to work the flow through the uv filter needs to be fairly slow, more like a trickle.
Too fast and it doesn't get a chance to kill stuff fully, it's more like a bad sunburn than cell degradation awesomeness that is uv, just don't ever try and open it up while IRS running to see if it's "still working"


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DvsDev said:


> I'd invest in a syringe for dosing, that's what I use, works really well and it's a lot easier to read.
> Uv should be fine but for it to work the flow through the uv filter needs to be fairly slow, more like a trickle.
> Too fast and it doesn't get a chance to kill stuff fully, it's more like a bad sunburn than cell degradation awesomeness that is uv, just don't ever try and open it up while IRS running to see if it's "still working"


Dose with what and how? 

I wish I could slow the flow on the power head.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Do algae control additives work like API algaefix?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I just ordered from GLA a Cal Aqua "Double Check" Drop Checker. Looking forward to receiving it.

http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-drop-checkers/cal-double-check.html

Oh and a became a supporting gold member of Plantedtank.net. That is the least I can do with all the questions I have been asking and info. I have been receiving. Thanks.

Rich


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Came home from work today and the tank is looking better, maybe this UV light is actually doing something now 4 days later. What you guys think?


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## DetMich (Mar 18, 2011)

Maybe I missed it but what is your fertilizer schedule? From what I read so far you are only dosing Seachem Flourish? If that is the case you should start researching and investing in some Macro Nutrients (NPK) or you might experience another algae outbreak.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DetMich said:


> Maybe I missed it but what is your fertilizer schedule? From what I read so far you are only dosing Seachem Flourish? If that is the case you should start researching and investing in some Macro Nutrients (NPK) or you might experience another algae outbreak.


Well at first I was using Nutrafin Plant Gro, I am not sure if you heard of it. I just started with the Seachem Flourish and used it one time. I also have some substrate pellets that contain a bunch of micro and macro nutrients that I purchased from Aquariumplants.com.



*TOTAL SUBSTRATE PELLETS*
 Total Pellets provide all essential macro and micronutrients for luxuriant Aquarium Plant Growth. Iron and other essential micronutrients are chelated to assure effective uptake by plants. (Total Pellets do not contribute to Phosphate levels.)
*Directions:* Inject one pellet under a single plant or group of plants within an area of 3â€� by 3â€� square. Inject no more than 1 pellet per each 3â€� by 3â€� area of aquarium bottom per month. Plants should be growing in at least 2â€� of substrate. With the injector angled at least 30 degrees off vertical, inject pellets into the substrate to about 1/2â€� under the plant root area. 
Chemically Active Ingredients: Hydrated Magnesium sulfate, Potassium nitrate, Potassium sulfate, also trace amounts of;  Cobalt EDTA, Copper EDTA, Iron EDTA, Magnesium EDTA, Zinc EDTA, Manganese sulfate, Sodium Borate, Sodium Molybdate, (Chelating Agent: Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid) 
Physically Active Ingredients: Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3) Magnesium Carbonate (MgCO3) Calcium Carbonate Equivalent (CaCO3) Calcium Sulfate (CaSO42H2O)


That is about it.


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## superflame (May 5, 2011)

I was reading on one of the post and it stated the dry fertilizer dosing can increase 5 times Greater grow rate than seachem products.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

superflame said:


> I was reading on one of the post and it stated the dry fertilizer dosing can increase 5 times Greater grow rate than seachem products.


When you say dry fertilizer are you referring to the pellets?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I just received my CO2 drop checker from GLA and they sent me the wrong one. :-(

Also, how bad is 80ppm on nitrates in a tank?

I forgot to add a pic of it.


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## DetMich (Mar 18, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> When you say dry fertilizer are you referring to the pellets?


No dry fertilizer is referring to Macro's (KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4) and Micro's (Plantex CSM+B) which you can get from GLA or AquariumFertilizer. It comes in a dry powder where you can either dose directly into the tank using measuring spoons or can make a solution.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DetMich said:


> No dry fertilizer is referring to Macro's (KNO3, KH2PO4, K2SO4) and Micro's (Plantex CSM+B) which you can get from GLA or AquariumFertilizer. It comes in a dry powder where you can either dose directly into the tank using measuring spoons or can make a solution.


Oh ok. So is that a lot different than what I am using now? The pellets I bought from Aquairumplants.com have micro and marco nutrients also, as I posted the list a few posts ago.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Those pellets are substrate ferts, the dry/solution dosing is water column fertilizing. Two different paths as both the roots and leaves can take in nutrients.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> I just received my CO2 drop checker from GLA and they sent me the wrong one. :-(
> 
> Also, how bad is 80ppm on nitrates in a tank?
> 
> I forgot to add a pic of it.


Give Orlando an email on the GLA website, he is a great guy and could help you on the drop checker. 

I would keep nitrates at 40 or less. 80 is getting a bit on the high side lol.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> Give Orlando an email on the GLA website, he is a great guy and could help you on the drop checker.
> 
> I would keep nitrates at 40 or less. 80 is getting a bit on the high side lol.


Hi, I already emailed them, I got a prompt response and I was given 2 options, I chose for them to send me the double CO2 drop checker via over night delivery and they said I can keep the one they sent me. How nice of them. Wow....Now that is customer service....  :bounce: roud:

Anyone wanna buy a brand new GLA single drop checker, photo above???


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> Those pellets are substrate ferts, the dry/solution dosing is water column fertilizing. Two different paths as both the roots and leaves can take in nutrients.


Ohhh I see now. Interesting. I am using this Nutrafin Plant Gro, is that any good? You have any idea?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I posted this in another thread.

I have a question. I purchased a API Nitrite and Nitrate test kit yesterday as well as a Seachem Iron test kit and my Nitrites were good at .25 but my Nitrates were at 80ppm (dark red on test card) should I be alarmed or am I ok?
I do have plants some of which are red in color others are green. I have a 10g, with CO2 and a small UV light with 10 fish and a T5HO 24" 2x24 for 7 hours a day (I know too much light).

Also, my iron was low as well. From the test card is was suppose to be a light purple or between .01 and .02 I think. I did ad some Nutrinfin Plant Gro which contains iron. the booklet from Seachem indicated that if iron is low the water I tested would be a yellowish color, which is what it was. Should I just keep using the Nutrinfin Plant Gro or add something else ?


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Uptown193 said:


> Ohhh I see now. Interesting. I am using this Nutrafin Plant Gro, is that any good? You have any idea?


That is only micro ferts. with the light you are under now, you will need to dose full micro and macro ferts. I would look at this and take action before you have an algae farm :red_mouth

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fertilizers-water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html

If you truly have as much nitrates as your test indicates, you will not need to dose the KN03. It is the easiest fert. schedule out there, and very quick once you get used to i. 



Uptown193 said:


> I posted this in another thread.
> 
> I have a question. I purchased a API Nitrite and Nitrate test kit yesterday as well as a Seachem Iron test kit and my Nitrites were good at .25 but my Nitrates were at 80ppm (dark red on test card) should I be alarmed or am I ok?
> I do have plants some of which are red in color others are green. I have a 10g, with CO2 and a small UV light with 10 fish and a T5HO 24" 2x24 for 7 hours a day (I know too much light).
> ...


again, look at the link above and it should give you quite a few answers. Do a 50% water change and test the water for nitrates again. The test is going to give you a ball park (big one at that) if it is not calibrated.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> Give Orlando an email on the GLA website, he is a great guy and could help you on the drop checker.
> 
> I would keep nitrates at 40 or less. 80 is getting a bit on the high side lol.


Yea I will do a partial water change tonight. See how that helps.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Ok I received the GLA Double Drop Checker that I ordered. GLA has excellent customer service. From the looks of it my CO2 is very low. But I do not know how long it take for the drop checker to actually read the CO2 in the tank. I only had it in 5mins when I took this pic. Anyone have any idea the ETA on that? 

Also, with the addition of a Mystery Snail, Flying Fox, a small Bamboo Shrimp, 9w UV light, some Nutrafin Plant Gro, Seachem Fourish my tank looks a lot brighter and clear. Here are some pics from my iphone, but looks so much better in person. Oh yea and leaving the lights on for only 7 hours a day is perfect. If you want get a moonlight (white not blue) for fun viewing at night.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Noahma said:


> That is only micro ferts. with the light you are under now, you will need to dose full micro and macro ferts. I would look at this and take action before you have an algae farm :red_mouth
> 
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/fertilizers-water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html
> 
> ...


Hi Noahma, thanks for the link I will check out that link and see what it says. MY tank looks so much better now from what I been doing and/or added.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)




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## johnny313 (Apr 15, 2011)

it should take approx 2 hours to get a good reading.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

johnny313 said:


> it should take approx 2 hours to get a good reading.


Oh ok thanks.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I must say that my tank is very very clear now and I have very minimal algae. I am very happy. I just have nitrates that are between 40 and 80ppm.


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## TankZen (Jan 31, 2011)

Looks nice! : )


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

TankZen said:


> Looks nice! : )


Hey thanks. :icon_smil


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I am getting some great growth. My plants are flourishing well. It seems like a half and inch a day or more, is that possible?


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## DvsDev (Dec 7, 2010)

Very possible, some plants are real fast growing like bamboo's others not so much.
Looking pretty good too


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

DvsDev said:


> Very possible, some plants are real fast growing like bamboo's others not so much.
> Looking pretty good too


Yea ok. It is pretty amazing how fast they grow when the lights are out. Is it ok for the plants to grow outside on top of the water or do I need to cut the stem on the bottom where it is planted in the substrate?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Anyone?


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

Up to you. If they can grow out of the water they will likely flower for you. The plants underwater get really shaded out though and when you get tired of the dark tank with flowering emersed plants and cut and plant the stuff it will look a bit odd.

I try to resist letting plants grow up to the surface and cut long stems a bit more than half way down the stem and replant the top to thicken the clump up. Most stems have prettier tops than stems so growing bushes is usually more attractive than long stems to the surface.

Your lilies will respond to pruning. I didn't believe it worked but last time I was very strict with it this year. Once a leaf grew taller than I wanted I pruned it out. It still sent out aerial leaves but since they didn't reach the surface the plant started producing aquatic leaves again. My 100 gallon tank was completely shaded with half a dozen aerial leaves in years past, your tank would be completely shaded with about two leaves.


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## kingdave (Feb 20, 2010)

How is the Co2 level... did your drop checker end up turning green?

The tank is looking great! Such a vast improvement from your first posting. I can tell you are learning a lot and getting a lot of great advice here.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

kingdave said:


> How is the Co2 level... did your drop checker end up turning green?
> 
> The tank is looking great! Such a vast improvement from your first posting. I can tell you are learning a lot and getting a lot of great advice here.


Hi, the CO2 level is usually green but then I turn it down to save CO2 since I have this 88g tank. When I turn it down the DC gets a lil bluish so then I turn up the CO2 and in 2 hours its green again. I am goinf to have to upgrade to a real CO2 tank very soon because these 88g tank are $15 bucks a pop. 

Yes I have been given great advice here which made me become a Gold Member.

Thanks for the compliment. You are right it has been a great improvement with the addition of the UV light, CO2, Seachem Flourish, Nutrafin Plant Gro, snail and a flying fox that eats algae. Who says money can't buy happiness? Lol.....


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

My snail cleaning the algae of a leaf and showing off his/her acrobatic moves.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I am getting massive growth now and less algae. You think I should trim the plants down, anyone?

































Anyone know the name of this plant?


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## lexbomb (May 23, 2011)

Looking great, I can't believe the change from page 1 you have learnt in leaps and bounds and I think if finances allow it's time for proper c02!!
I think that you could easily do a trim, replant them if you want or ROAK them to someone, 
Great job


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## delfin1205 (Jun 11, 2011)

_Anyone know the name of this plant?
_

Looks like Brazilian Pennywort to me.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

lexbomb said:


> Looking great, I can't believe the change from page 1 you have learnt in leaps and bounds and I think if finances allow it's time for proper c02!!
> I think that you could easily do a trim, replant them if you want or ROAK them to someone,
> Great job


Thank you. Yea I know man what a big difference it is now from before. A better light and on for only 7 hours a day does the trick with algae growth and a snail not to mention UV light.

Funny you say that, my finances allowed it this past week when I picked up a used GLA Primo system. I am just waiting to get tank filled somewhere here in NY I have to look around. If anyone has any knowledge where I can go in NYC to fill it let me know. I also had to order a new brass/glass bubble counter and check valve. So I hope it will be up and running very soon.
Here is a pic of it. No more $15 every 3-4 weeks with this Fluval CO2 but it did its job.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

should have bought a dual stage..., but it's better than your old system for sure.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> should have bought a dual stage..., but it's better than your old system for sure.


Why? what would a duel stage do for me? My lil 88g fluval was giving me great results, more than what I expected. I now have a 5lb tank so now I dont have to keep buying more refills. This is more than enough. I cant please some of you guys on here, its always buy more and bigger. Nothing is ever good enough. :confused1::icon_redf


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## Kibblemania1414 (Feb 1, 2011)

i love the pics uptown
good job


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Kibblemania1414 said:


> i love the pics uptown
> good job


Hey thanks. Appreciate it.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Just watch your tank pressure and when it starts to drop, refill your co2 ASAP or you will get an end of tank dump and gas all your fish. This happens on a single stage because the delivery pressure rises when the tank pressure decreases. 2 stage regulators avoid this completely. You can run it bone dry and your delivery pressure will remain constant. Even if you are aware, you can miss it, and gas your fish. It happens to a lot of ppl.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Not all single stage regulators will do an *E*nd *o*f *T*ank *D*ump. Only the crappy ones.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Is that so? okay, well hopefully that's true and yours isn't crappy.


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## maknwar (Aug 10, 2008)

audioaficionado said:


> Not all single stage regulators will do an *E*nd *o*f *T*ank *D*ump. Only the crappy ones.


I think im going to experiment with this. I think your right but has anyone documented it? I guess i need to search.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> Just watch your tank pressure and when it starts to drop, refill your co2 ASAP or you will get an end of tank dump and gas all your fish. This happens on a single stage because the delivery pressure rises when the tank pressure decreases. 2 stage regulators avoid this completely. You can run it bone dry and your delivery pressure will remain constant. Even if you are aware, you can miss it, and gas your fish. It happens to a lot of ppl.


Oh ok. thanks for the tip and advice with regards to that. I don't wanna kill my fish and I don't want them the die but I kinda get bored with same fish after a few months anyway, :flick:


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

maknwar said:


> I think im going to experiment with this. I think your right but has anyone documented it? I guess i need to search.


It is hard to believe that a GLA regulator for $225 will do that.


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## lexbomb (May 23, 2011)

I have a single stage dupla set up from 1995 and it works fantastic never had a do called gas dump.never even heard of it til then.odd


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

I am very interested to see if high end single stage regulators can run bone dry... that could change everything. Nice tank though uptown, a vast improvement from the beginning. I just wanted to warn you of the EOTD, but you may never have to deal with it.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

lexbomb said:


> I have a single stage dupla set up from 1995 and it works fantastic never had a do called gas dump.never even heard of it til then.odd


I think btimmer is just trying to make a sale since he makes these regulators, lol. Good effort.

Has anyone with a GLA "single stage" regulator ever have this problem?


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> I am very interested to see if high end single stage regulators can run bone dry... that could change everything. Nice tank though uptown, a vast improvement from the beginning. I just wanted to warn you of the EOTD, but you may never have to deal with it.


Thanks for the compliment. Yea I took a lot of advice from people here and spent some money in the process. Thanks for the warning. I will make sure not to run the tank bone dry anyway. :bounce:


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> I think btimmer is just trying to make a sale since he makes these regulators, lol. Good effort.
> 
> Has anyone with a GLA "single stage" regulator ever have this problem?


I htink you have it backwards. I didn't make up EOTD to sell regulators. In fact, I was aware of EOTD, and that is why I sell dual stage regulators instead of single stage. I just wanted to sell regulators that people would not be disappointed with. I realize now, that not all single stage regulators do EOTD, only the crappy ones. (*learning moment*)


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> I think btimmer is just trying to make a sale since he makes these regulators, lol. Good effort.
> 
> Has anyone with a GLA "single stage" regulator ever have this problem?


That's BS! btimmer92 doesn't make enough money here to really make much of a difference either way. He's just doing something he loves for this hobby.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> That's BS! btimmer92 doesn't make enough money here to really make much of a difference either way. He's just doing something he loves for this hobby.


Your right, btimmer does not make enough money here to make a difference, so what other way is there than to tell someone who just bought a new regulator that they should have bought a 2 stage and that same person just so happens to make and sell them. Coincidence? no, I do not think so. :icon_roll

Further, I want to hear compliments to my purchases and setup not "oh you should have got a 2 stage regulator" after I just spent a lot of money on a great GLA regulator. What is next? Just do not make any comments on my thread if it is not a good comment or something that will help me and/or benefit me. I love the hobby to, that is no excuse. Thank you.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

You're right its not a coincidence, I sell them because I believe people are better off with them!! Thank you audioafficianado, you are correct. No one can make a living selling regulators on this forum. I barely sell many regulators and post bodies at all, I actually have a job that makes me money. My job is not even a career, I am merely a lifeguard and it still makes me much more money than selling regulators will ever make me. I build regulators for fun mostly.

That being said, maybe it was insensitive of me to slam something you already bought. I apologize.


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## maknwar (Aug 10, 2008)

I dont even run my co2 tank empty with a dual stage. I dont trust equipment as much as used to.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> That being said, maybe it was insensitive of me to slam something you already bought. I apologize.


Apology accepted. :icon_smil


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Help!!!

I am so pissed off. I just got my new bubble counter from GLA and stupid me, I put Teflon Tape on the small thread on the end of bubble counter and I tightened it too much causing it to break off. GLA is closed till 7/12. Can I get this piece at Home Depot, at a plumbing store or anywhere? Anyone know? Thanks.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

better pics needed. I don't understand. Show a picture of the bottom of the bubble counter. Is that broken part of the check valve the part that you tried to insert into the bubble counter? If so, you put the check valve on backwards. You say yo put the tape on the thread ON the bubble counter. The only male thread on the bubble counter is at the top, where the compression nut goes... I see you put teflon tape on a 1/8 npt fitting to go into the bottom of the bubble counter. When you tried tightening that fitting, you were actually tightening the 10-32 fitting, and putting too much torque on it. You need to tighten that 1/8 fitting all the way, before you screw the check valve on.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> better pics needed. I don't understand. Show a picture of the bottom of the bubble counter. Is that broken part of the check valve the part that you tried to insert into the bubble counter? If so, you put the check valve on backwards. You say yo put the tape on the thread ON the bubble counter. The only male thread on the bubble counter is at the top, where the compression nut goes... I see you put teflon tape on a 1/8 npt fitting to go into the bottom of the bubble counter. When you tried tightening that fitting, you were actually tightening the 10-32 fitting, and putting too much torque on it. You need to tighten that 1/8 fitting all the way, before you screw the check valve on.


Hey. I posted pics on the other thread. Orlando put that teflon tape on there and assembled it all good. All I had to do was screw it in the regulator but stupid me I thought I needed teflon tape on that end too and when I screwed it in the regulator I used to much torque. So I just need that nipple part everything else is fine.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Does anyone know if I can use the CO2 without the bubble counter connected to the regulator?


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Sure, just slowly open up the needle valve over a period of days, watching how your critters respond. You will need some sort of hosing fitting, be it a barb or compression. Either could be found at Ace or any other hardware store.


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

You could just rig up a bubble counter until you get a replacement. Use a gatorade bottle or vitamin water bottle or something with a large cap. It takes MAYBE 5 minutes if you have a drill. Pic:


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

h2oaggie said:


> Sure, just slowly open up the needle valve over a period of days, watching how your critters respond. You will need some sort of hosing fitting, be it a barb or compression. Either could be found at Ace or any other hardware store.


Yea Ill do that. Thanks.



speedoflife said:


> You could just rig up a bubble counter until you get a replacement. Use a gatorade bottle or vitamin water bottle or something with a large cap. It takes MAYBE 5 minutes if you have a drill. Pic:


Oh ok thanks. I can try that I think too. Actually I have a bubble counter from m Fluval CO2 setup, maybe I can rig that one up and use that one in the mean time? Ya think?


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## speedoflife (Jun 12, 2011)

Of course. No reason you wouldn't be able to. The bubble counter doesn't have to be on the regulator, that just looks nicer. Any bubble counter will work as long as you can see it and count the bubbles!


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

speedoflife said:


> Of course. No reason you wouldn't be able to. The bubble counter doesn't have to be on the regulator, that just looks nicer. Any bubble counter will work as long as you can see it and count the bubbles!


Oh ok kool so I will do that for now. I already ordered the piece I needed from Btimmer. Should get it by Monday. Thanks for ur help.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

I would be careful. Homemade bubble counters are fine, but they give you bigger bubbles than the JBJ, so you have to set the bubble count lower than you had it before to actually have the same flow as before. Don't want you to gas your fish!  

You won't actually know what to set it at initally, so you will still have to use h2oaggie's suggestion.... which is kind of annoying. But that is better than gassing your fish!


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

Oh, I just now read that you are using the bubble counter from your old setup. While it is not a homemade bubble counter, you still don't know for sure if the bubble size will be the same as your JBJ... just a friendly warning.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> Oh, I just now read that you are using the bubble counter from your old setup. While it is not a homemade bubble counter, you still don't know for sure if the bubble size will be the same as your JBJ... just a friendly warning.


Oh ok, ill make sure to take extra precaution until I get your check valve and I do have a drop checker which will tell me if I am giving to much CO2.


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

that will make things easier. But I must ask, have you turned your needle valve at all since you last had it running at the correct bubble count? Because if not, then don't worry about it, and just leave you needle valve where it was at.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> that will make things easier. But I must ask, have you turned your needle valve at all since you last had it running at the correct bubble count? Because if not, then don't worry about it, and just leave you needle valve where it was at.


Well I just purchased this new system and I have not even used or tested it yet. I bought it from a member on here and kinda got screwed on the deal becasue he never mentioned to me the that low pressure gauge's dial and clear plastic cover was missing so I had to order a new one from Orlando at GLA. I just picked up the tank this morning and will check it out when I get home tonight from work.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

What is the best way to do a leak test on regulator and tank without a leak tester? Spray a lil soap water on regulator?


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## lexbomb (May 23, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> What is the best way to do a leak test on regulator and tank without a leak tester? Spray a lil soap water on regulator?


Spray it with window cleaner you will see very bubbles if it has a leak


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## btimmer92 (Mar 12, 2011)

what do you mean the dial is missing? also, you do not need the clear cover on the gauge, it just protects the needle from getting broken, if that were to happen somehow...


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

btimmer92 said:


> what do you mean the dial is missing? also, you do not need the clear cover on the gauge, it just protects the needle from getting broken, if that were to happen somehow...


I had to order a new gauge from Orlando. He said he was going to reimburse me, lets see.

I tried rigging up the BC but to much air was leaking to go thru BC so thats didn't work. I guess I have to wait for that check valve in the mail. :icon_sad:


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Does anyone know if it is normal for the solenoid on the regulator to run some what hot? Do I have to worry? When I touch it, it gets pretty hot. I had it plugged in over night and it was still the same. I just want to make sure it does not cause any harm to anything. Thanks.


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

Yes, every solenoid (that I know of) but the Clippard mouse solenoid runs hot.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

h2oaggie said:


> Yes, every solenoid (that I know of) but the Clippard mouse solenoid runs hot.


Oh really ok. I just wanted to make sure. I do not want to come home from work with my house on fire. I wish it wouldn't run so hot. I wonder why it gets hot like that.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Uptown193 said:


> Oh really ok. I just wanted to make sure. I do not want to come home from work with my house on fire. I wish it wouldn't run so hot. I wonder why it gets hot like that.


They were designed for cubic feet/minute of gas cooling effect. Bubbles/minute just doesn't cool anything.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

audioaficionado said:


> They were designed for cubic feet/minute of gas cooling effect. Bubbles/minute just doesn't cool anything.


Oh wow, ok thats explains it then, lol. Thanks.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Updated pics.
New GLA CO2 with 5lb. tank








New Sprio diffuser








Alternate tank setup


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## narhay (Feb 28, 2007)

LOL. I just skipped from the first few posts to just now to see what the result was. Well, a 5lb CO2 cylinder is certainly a bit of an upgrade from the standard fluval CO2 kit. You really went all out on this 10 gallon for sure. At least you have the CO2 now and you can play with it a bit. Hope your plants go well.


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## WaveSurfer (Oct 3, 2007)

Great effort in making sure your plants in your 10G grow healthily! 

May I know is there any reason why the CO2 indicator is placed directly above the diffusor? I wonder if it will cause inaccurate results in the indicator.

By the way, I have a strong feeling that you'll be upgrading to a much larger tank soon, seeing how crowded your tank currently is. Anyway, keep up the good job!


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

narhay said:


> LOL. I just skipped from the first few posts to just now to see what the result was. Well, a 5lb CO2 cylinder is certainly a bit of an upgrade from the standard fluval CO2 kit. You really went all out on this 10 gallon for sure. At least you have the CO2 now and you can play with it a bit. Hope your plants go well.


Lol, I know small tank but my ultimate goal is a coral reef tank, however, I will be upgrading soon to a ADA rimless tank maybe 20g. So I can use this setup for that and I will be ready for it. But yea the reason for the big upgrade was that the Fluval was killing my wallet with the $15 every 3 weeks. Now this 5lb will last a long time. Much better and nicer looking.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

WaveSurfer said:


> Great effort in making sure your plants in your 10G grow healthily!
> 
> Thank you. I try.
> 
> ...


Yea I think so too and looking forward to it. As soon as I get more money. Thank you.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)




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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

I found a pic of my tank when I first got it in October, 2010.


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## AirstoND (Jun 17, 2011)

:thumbsup:Mine never pearl like that!


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

AirstoND said:


> :thumbsup:Mine never pearl like that!


Really? I wonder why that is? 

I love that pearling effect i notice it helps lift the plants straight up.


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

Some updated pics with 2 new plants


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## AirstoND (Jun 17, 2011)

*CO2 Causes Mutant Snails*

Get your yellow mystery snail off the CO2roids


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## Uptown193 (Apr 25, 2011)

AirstoND said:


> Get your yellow mystery snail off the CO2roids


Wow funny u should say that I noticed a small tiny snail on my UV sterilizer, should I kill/flush them?

Or remove the snail?


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