# Canister filter least likely to leak



## Racedoc (Nov 18, 2013)

Hi all - re-looking at canister filter options for my 90 gal FW. Tried a magnum 350 but wasn't impressed and wife (and I) concerned about a leak with resultant 90 gal of water on floor from leak ruining the hardwoods. Is there a general consensus about "most stable" and least likely to leak canister filter? Not worried about cost, just leakproof'ness. Maybe even a sensor or something that would shut it off if leaking. I'm discovering with my 2 HOB's now that I will be burning through CO2 quick. Thank!


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## MiSo (Oct 26, 2005)

eheims have a pretty good reputation. 

one of mine is about 6 or 7 years old. still kicking.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I go Ehiem 2217 for reliable but hedge my bet. I put it in a plastic dishpan and add a water alarm near things that may leak. I've never had a leak (except for me ) but I like the feel of $12 protection from those things that might sneak up. 


http://www.lowes.com/pd_117272-8486...m&pl=1&currentURL=?Ntt=water+alarm&facetInfo=


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## Topekoms (Dec 19, 2013)

Fluval FX5 have two of them and never had any issues love these things


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## Yankee (Jan 12, 2013)

Eheim is solid - I've also heard the FX5 from Fluval is pretty good for bigger tanks. Never had a problem with Eheim.


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## Texan78 (Nov 17, 2013)

+1 on Fluval

Been using them for 10 plus years without any issues and problems. 

The best suggestion I can offer is do research on each companies customer supports. If you ever have an issue which company is most likely to respond to your inquires.


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## Down_Shift (Sep 20, 2008)

My Rena xp2s gave out after 2 years of running. Leaked and caused over $300 in repairs to the ceiling under me. 

Swapped to Eheim. Haven't had an issue yet. (Knock on wood) also the footprint is smaller so I keep it in a small .75 cent plastic tub from ikea. Small insurance of leakage


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Two eheim 2217's would be my choice for 90 gal. I use two of these on 80 gal.
Or.. one Fluval FX6.


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## devilduck (May 9, 2012)

I own two Renas and never had a problem. Bought a eheim 2217 and it leaked. For a tank that size I definitely go with something with better flow than the 2217.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## Aqguy (Oct 30, 2013)

Fluval has tighter hose fightings my marineland is kinda sketchy


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

The truth is that we get such a small portion of the users on any given forum that it doesn't really mean much when looking at the overall picture. It comes down to not only the way things are made but it depends on how they are used as well. You've heard that some folks can screw up an anvil? It goes for filters, too. So I doubt that you will get a really firm idea which is better. Just stay away from the obvious cheap ones and most of the time you will be good --with a little care on your part!


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Yes,,, I agree with PlantedRich.
Don't believe everything you read good or bad, on the internet although that's how I met my girlfriend (She's a French model).
I will say that I have had no problem's with the two eheim 2217' or the Rena filter's.
Service them regularly,keep the gasket's/O-ring's lubed = no worries.


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## AndreyT (Apr 28, 2011)

Racedoc said:


> ...and wife (and I) concerned about a leak with resultant 90 gal of water on floor from leak ruining the hardwoods... Maybe even a sensor or something that would shut it off if leaking.


Firstly, the probability of the canister filter leaking is greatly influenced by the how low the canister is placed under the tank. This difference determines the water pressure inside the canister itself and in the bottom portions of the hoses. The greater the height difference - the higher the pressure - the greater the probability of the seal failure. This is the reason canister filters has max height rating. But even if you are placing the canister within the rated height difference, you can still reduce the risk even further by reducing that difference.

Secondly, when it comes to hose attachment points, you can greatly reduce the risks of detachment by using hose clamps. Just don't overtighten them, since it often makes things less watertight (and can crush plastic fittings).

Thirdly, if you are using a non-drilled setup, i.e. your intake tube goes over the edge of the tank, then it is easy to eliminate the risk of siphoning all water from the tank in case of a leak. Just drill a small "siphon breaker" hole in the ascending portion of the intake tube (the part that sits inside the tank). The hole must be located below the normal water level in your tank. As long as the water level in your tank remains high (above the hole), the intake will operate as usual. But if your filter develops a leak and begins siphoning water out of the tank, the siphon will get terminated automatically once the water in the tank drops below that safety hole. That way you can limit the siphoning risk to, say, 1 or 2 gallons instead of 90 gallons.


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## Fiftymeatballs (Mar 30, 2011)

AndreyT said:


> Firstly, the probability of the canister filter leaking is greatly influenced by the how low the canister is placed under the tank. This difference determines the water pressure inside the canister itself and in the bottom portions of the hoses. The greater the height difference - the higher the pressure - the greater the probability of the seal failure. This is the reason canister filters has max height rating. But even if you are placing the canister within the rated height difference, you can still reduce the risk even further by reducing that difference.
> 
> Secondly, when it comes to hose attachment points, you can greatly reduce the risks of detachment by using hose clamps. Just don't overtighten them, since it often makes things less watertight (and can crush plastic fittings).
> 
> Thirdly, if you are using a non-drilled setup, i.e. your intake tube goes over the edge of the tank, then it is easy to eliminate the risk of siphoning all water from the tank in case of a leak. Just drill a small "siphon breaker" hole in the ascending portion of the intake tube (the part that sits inside the tank). The hole must be located below the normal water level in your tank. As long as the water level in your tank remains high (above the hole), the intake will operate as usual. But if your filter develops a leak and begins siphoning water out of the tank, the siphon will get terminated automatically once the water in the tank drops below that safety hole. That way you can limit the siphoning risk to, say, 1 or 2 gallons instead of 90 gallons.


Great idea, why have I not done this already on my 120 gallon!!!

I have a eheim pro 3e that leaked from the primer button seals. It was a slow leak that didn't cause much damage. They replaced the filter free. 
I am also running a Fluval fx5 that seems almost impossible to spring a leak. They are built solid from what I can see.


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## Aqguy (Oct 30, 2013)

AndreyT said:


> Firstly, the probability of the canister filter leaking is greatly influenced by the how low the canister is placed under the tank. This difference determines the water pressure inside the canister itself and in the bottom portions of the hoses. The greater the height difference - the higher the pressure - the greater the probability of the seal failure. This is the reason canister filters has max height rating. But even if you are placing the canister within the rated height difference, you can still reduce the risk even further by reducing that difference.
> 
> Secondly, when it comes to hose attachment points, you can greatly reduce the risks of detachment by using hose clamps. Just don't overtighten them, since it often makes things less watertight (and can crush plastic fittings).
> 
> Thirdly, if you are using a non-drilled setup, i.e. your intake tube goes over the edge of the tank, then it is easy to eliminate the risk of siphoning all water from the tank in case of a leak. Just drill a small "siphon breaker" hole in the ascending portion of the intake tube (the part that sits inside the tank). The hole must be located below the normal water level in your tank. As long as the water level in your tank remains high (above the hole), the intake will operate as usual. But if your filter develops a leak and begins siphoning water out of the tank, the siphon will get terminated automatically once the water in the tank drops below that safety hole. That way you can limit the siphoning risk to, say, 1 or 2 gallons instead of 90 gallons.


+1 I'm on that next water change.


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## larams67 (Jan 24, 2006)

AndreyT said:


> Firstly, the probability of the canister filter leaking is greatly influenced by the how low the canister is placed under the tank. This difference determines the water pressure inside the canister itself and in the bottom portions of the hoses. The greater the height difference - the higher the pressure - the greater the probability of the seal failure. This is the reason canister filters has max height rating. But even if you are placing the canister within the rated height difference, you can still reduce the risk even further by reducing that difference.
> 
> Secondly, when it comes to hose attachment points, you can greatly reduce the risks of detachment by using hose clamps. Just don't overtighten them, since it often makes things less watertight (and can crush plastic fittings).
> 
> Thirdly, if you are using a non-drilled setup, i.e. your intake tube goes over the edge of the tank, then it is easy to eliminate the risk of siphoning all water from the tank in case of a leak. Just drill a small "siphon breaker" hole in the ascending portion of the intake tube (the part that sits inside the tank). The hole must be located below the normal water level in your tank. As long as the water level in your tank remains high (above the hole), the intake will operate as usual. But if your filter develops a leak and begins siphoning water out of the tank, the siphon will get terminated automatically once the water in the tank drops below that safety hole. That way you can limit the siphoning risk to, say, 1 or 2 gallons instead of 90 gallons.



Really great, simple advise. I just drilled a small hole about 1/2 an inch below my normal water level. I should have done that a long time ago. Thanks a lot for the suggestion.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

The efffective change in water pressure when the canister is moved up or down may be overrated in this. 
At 36" the pressure is 1.30058 while at 48" it is 1.73411. Does anybody really care about the difference in the amount of water dumped over something close to 1/2 PSI? I'm thinking it is far more important to reread the directions than to worry about locating the filter higher. Treated right, they rarely leak.

Point to ponder?
If there was a magic bullet like putting a hole in the intake that would solve dumping water, Why do none of the filter manufacturers know of this secret?


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## Racedoc (Nov 18, 2013)

PlantedRich said:


> Point to ponder?
> If there was a magic bullet like putting a hole in the intake that would solve dumping water, Why do none of the filter manufacturers know of this secret?


 Well, I guess from a marketing standpoint, the manufacturers would be reluctant to acknowledge potentially catastrophic complications with their equipment. Sounds like a great idea to me!


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## AndreyT (Apr 28, 2011)

PlantedRich said:


> If there was a magic bullet like putting a hole in the intake that would solve dumping water, Why do none of the filter manufacturers know of this secret?


Well, they probably do. However, pre-drilling such a hole (if that's what you mean) is simply impossible since it is greatly dependent on the final setup. I.e. the hole should be drilled at some depth under the nominal water level. But where exactly will that "nominal water level" be located on the intake pipe?

Normally, when one does over-the-edge intake, one places the actual intake opening as close as reasonable to the gravel. That immediately means that the location of the hole will be determined by the customer's tank depth. I.e. the hole cannot be pre-drilled in advance.

Also, how deep one wants that hole to be located under the water level is a matter of customer's preference as well. There's an obvious risk associated with that hole: it the hole gets exposed during normal operation, it will immediately disrupt the intake siphon and interfere the filter's operation. So, those "lazier" people (like me) who don't constantly watch their water level and who allow it to drop due to evaporation might want to drill it at greater depth. People who constantly maintain the water level (or use an automated system of some sort) can place it closer to the "normal" water level.


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## Racedoc (Nov 18, 2013)

Just looked at FX6. I have about 25" max under cabinet. Not sure it will fit when hoses are attached?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

You do want to leave some space to work the hoses without crimping them down. Folds in the hose is a sure way to kill flow. 
If floor space is available and things won't fit under the stand, there is the alternate of putting it outside the stand under a cheap plywood frame, disguised to look like a table. Put some flowers, pictures or whatever works in your house on the top and go with it. I find having just a cloth cover, lets me flip the cover up out of the way when I need to things. Works for me when space underneath is tight. 
Or if the space is full of spare dishes!


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## Racedoc (Nov 18, 2013)

Guys, thanks for all the posts here! I went and ordered an Eheim 2074 and also dusted off the new Magnum 350 to use as a second filter with the bucket/alarm suggestion. I will be drilling a small hole on the intake as suggested as well.

I've realized the o-rings are sort of the key to watertight-ness. I went ahead and ordered replacements for all the o-ring. I have the Eheim maintenance spray (pretty much just silicon spray), and have sprayed each of the o-rings/gaskets on the magnum, and plan on inspecting/re-spraying each o-ring every other week when I change out the filter floss (will be using marine pure balls in the center chamber). Is spraying with the silicon spray what folks mean by keeping them lubed up? I notice they are a little tacky once sprayed. Also, does that schedule seem reasonable? Was thinking of replacing the o-rings/gaskets every 6 months or so. Thanks again.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Can only speak to the two eheim's I use.
I lube the O ring's gasket's at quick connect's once a month, and everything seem's tight,no leaks ,dried out feeling material,in a couple year's.
I think buying replacement's is wise just in case and may do this as well next payday.


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## [email protected] (Aug 4, 2013)

*FX6 no leaking.*

My FX6 has not leaked in the month I've been using it. My first cleaning caused me to question the the decision to use it.

Ran 2 Ehiem 2217s on my 75 for about 20 years. They were awesome. Switched to Fluval when re-entering the hobby. Saw some bad reviews on the new Ehiem.

Go to Amazon and read reviews on products you are considering. They have a huge customer base who will tell their experiences.


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## [email protected] (Aug 4, 2013)

*Use 2 filters.*

I suggest you use two filters on your tank. Two reasons. one backs up the other and secondly and more importantly when you change the filter your bacteria is killed having two allows you to alternate cleanings. My understanding is that allowing two weeks between cleanings will preserve your bacteria .


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## kaz442 (Sep 28, 2013)

Do not drill a hole in the intake. Everytime you do a water change you will have to empty and restart your filter due to the lost siphon. Have been working in the aquarium trade 30+ years only canisters that I use are eheim 2215, 2217 and 2260. Fluvial hasn't made a decent filter since the 03 series. Everything else is cheap Chinese junk. 

JKaz


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## Racedoc (Nov 18, 2013)

Yep, I'm gonna run 2 canisters - the magnum 350 (gonna mod the intake with a sponge pre-filter and take out the carbon to replace with marine pure), along with the eheim. I was actually thinking of modding the intakes a bit with a small rubber stopper to plug the hole prior to doing water changes for that reason. It definitely will add to the complexity of maintanence, but I'm a constant figit-er with my aquarium so the slight added work won't be an issue. Thanks for the input!


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## scapegoat (Jun 3, 2010)

a canister leaking is going to be user error, not faulty design.


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## kaz442 (Sep 28, 2013)

scapegoat said:


> a canister leaking is going to be user error, not faulty design.


You haven't used many canisters have you. How about after Hurricane Sandy hit and people lost power. Had a few clients with fluvals that leaked and drained tanks. Filter didn't leak while running only after the power failure did it leak. Strange I know but it happen to different people. Both were replaced with Eheim classics.
JKaz


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## Fiftymeatballs (Mar 30, 2011)

My eheim pro 3e leaked after a year of use from the primer button on top. Luckily only about a gallon or two of my 120g. Since I rarely go under the tank stand it caused black mold and some rotting. Eheim replaced it free and pretty quickly. Faulty design.


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## ctaylor3737 (Nov 14, 2013)

Always check your seals on your cannisters and when in doubt replace them, I replace mine every few months. I put them in the disposable alluminum foil looking pans. This will catch all water from disconnecting hoses or you forgetting to get the seal on all the way. Lowes sells the alarms for a few bucks well worth it IMO.


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## Racedoc (Nov 18, 2013)

Great idea - actually here's how I set it up:


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