# Eheim 2211 vs. 2213 (for <20Gal)



## Centromochlus (May 19, 2008)

2213, for sure. A 2215 would probably be even better.


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

2215 for a 15 (or even 20) Gal?!? From vids i've seen online that would smack my neons against the glass I think (not to mention what it will do in the 10).


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## VadimShevchuk (Sep 19, 2009)

I ran an eheim 2217 on a 29 gallon and everyone lived. I say 2215


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## Azrie (Jan 5, 2011)

I had a similar problem, I wanted a 20 gallon long and didn't know which Eheim to go with. What I decided was a 2213. I've read, but haven't tried it yet myself, that you can use a 2215 or 2217 impeller on a 2213 and it will get a larger flow. This means that for now I can use the 2213 for my 20 gallon and if I upgrade to a slightly bigger tank there is a good chance I can use the same filter by just buying a $20 impeller. You might want to look into this.


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

The 2217 impeller fits into the 2215 beyond that I'm not certain, but the 2211 will turn over the volume of the tank 3 times per hour and that's pretty good, but the 2213 will double that, and 2215 is 8 times per hour.

My 2215's are old but I don't ever remember the flow being that strong until you get to the 2217 and that would just make a whirlpool, either the 2213 or 15.

Think about what you might add, inline reactor, heater, then the 15 is better for flow, but the main difference in the filters are the amount of media they hold.


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## AdamP. (Sep 30, 2005)

I was running a 2211 on my 20 gallon and in my opinion it was adequate but just barely. I only had a pair of rams and a few otos. If you stock very lightly it will work.


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

I'm running a 2215 on my 11.4


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## jaybugg13 (Sep 4, 2007)

I do believe the double tap connects will allow you to tune down the output flow. I have the 2232 and the valve on the connector will allow me to dial down the flow. In fact since there are two ball valves to the tap connector assembly you could use them both to slow things down with very good control I would think.


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

jkan0228 said:


> I'm running a 2215 on my 11.4


Full tilt? I take it you don't have a whirlpool in there then? 




jaybugg13 said:


> I do believe the double tap connects will allow you to tune down the output flow.


I've heard about people doing that. Does it increases noise at all? I wonder if adding that resistance has any effect (long term) on the head unit.


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## jkan0228 (Feb 6, 2011)

Ziggy said:


> Full tilt? I take it you don't have a whirlpool in there then?


Well no not really. Just lots of flow haha
I adjust the double tap connect valves from time to time though.... lol


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## reignOfFred (Jun 7, 2010)

the benefit of going with the 2215 is that as it loses power as it gets older, which it will, it will still be useful, or if you upgrade it will still be useful. pluse comes with disconnect valves for the hoses which can be used to slow down flow, or you can use lots of cotton batting in it to effectively clog it up and slow down flow. Also the spray bar design does a pretty good job of spreading it out.


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

jkan0228 said:


> Well no not really. Just lots of flow haha


Its that subjective "lots of flow" that scares me. Shrimp on the bottom is one thing but neon tetras mid tank wouldn't like fighting a current all day.


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## RipariumGuy (Aug 6, 2009)

2213/2215 on a 20g in my opinion. I had 7 neons in a 7-8g tank with a 2213 in it, and they where fine. The flow on EHEIMs really slows down after a while, so getting the 2215 won't be sentencing your fish to spending the rest of their lives fighting the current.


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## swoof (Jun 30, 2010)

I run a 2211 on a 5 gallon EcoPico and just adjust down the flow on the flow into the tank with no problems. I don't think a 2211 would be enough flow in a 20 even with lily pipes. The double taps are the best thing about these filters because you can reduce the flow out of the filter into the tank. Just my $0.02


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

Ziggy, if you're gonna ask questions then you should at least trust the answers -especially when nearly everyone is saying the same thing! 

I have a 2215 on a 20G. The flow is NOT as high as you think it is...you have a mental image of a waterfall, geyser and it's nowhere near that.

If you're making this judgment based on the manufacturer's flow rate - be aware that this flow rate is measured with ZERO filter media in the canister.

If you are even thinking about upgrading to a 20G, your 2213 will be ill-equipped for proper flow - you'll have to add a powerhead to maintain good flow...that's another bulky piece of machinery in your tank.

You have to consider a few things:

1. all filters will lose flow over time as gunk piles up in the canister. Unless you're cleaning these things weekly - which you won't trust me, you have to account for even less flow than simply with filter media. 
2. upgrading to a larger tank will be much easier with a larger filter to begin with. Your 2213 will end up staying on the 10G for good unless you add some more power for your 20G. Thats more equipment on relatively small tanks = doesn't look very good. 
3. You can always baffle flow by pointing the spraybar to the back wall of your tank or even using the taps to restrict outflow. Restricting outflow won't hurt the motor. NEVER restrict intake - that will.

Also 2213 and 2215 impellers, to my knowledge, are not interchangeable. 2215 and 2217 yes.

If you can't trust our judgment or get that image of a whirlpool out of your head, go visit a store or someone's house that has one. You'll see what we're talking about.

Bottom line is this:

You either go 2213 which is more appropriate for your 10G but then risk having to put more filtration/flow on your 20G if you upgrade.
OR

You go 2215, learn to baffle the flow as much as possible for your 10G and then have zero to worry about once you upgrade to 20G.

If you're intent on upgrading to a 20G, then a 2213 should be out of the picture - go 2215.
If you're not sure on upgrading, I'd still go 2215 - everyone here knows that you always uprgrade...the hobby is too addictive


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

Interesting response from Eheim on this subject: Their rep asserted that the 2211 would be perfect for the 10Gal, and alright for the 20 as long as bioload is not heavy. His recommendation for my situation was actually a 2232 and that either it or the 2213 would probably be fine in the 10Gal at full output. 2232 seems like a slick outfit but with a price 50% higher than a 2213, I'm not sure the prime function is worth it, plus you only get coarse, bio, and fine layers whereas the 2213 has the pre-filter layer (though I don't know how much difference that makes).

I really didn't think this would be this hard of a decision. LOL.


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

astrosag said:


> Ziggy, if you're gonna ask questions then you should at least trust the answers -especially when nearly everyone is saying the same thing!


Understood. 2211 is off the table.  At this point though the 15Gal looks more likely for my eventual upgrade so I have to take that (and the price difference between the 2213 and 2215) into account.



astrosag said:


> go visit a store or someone's house that has one. You'll see what we're talking about.


I WISH!  No LFS in my area carry anything other than the Hagen line (and nobody I know has anything even remotely like this on their setup).

Thanks all for your feedback and thoughts!


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

I was just joking around buddy. 

Here's the thing...

Planted tanks often have high bioload and need a lot of filtration.

My friend uses a $20 filter on this 55g cichlid tank and it works - but that on your 10G or 20G planted tank won't cut it. 

I know the expense and I know what you're going thru - I did the same!

If you ever inject CO2, you'll need good flow to make sure its delivered to your plants. There are many reasons why high flow, even overdoing it with flow is better with planted tanks. And you will be able to baffle the flow in your 20G enough so that the fish won't even notice it 

If you REALLY want to upgrade, you'll save money going 2215. If you're not sure if upgrading will happen, then you _may_ save money going 2213. See the point?


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

They don't get any real power until the 2217!


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

astrosag said:


> Ziggy, if you're gonna ask questions then you should at least trust the answers -especially when nearly everyone is saying the same thing!
> 
> I have a 2215 on a 20G. The flow is NOT as high as you think it is...you have a mental image of a waterfall, geyser and it's nowhere near that.
> 
> ...


Actually Eheim is the only manufacturer that I know of that actually posts their flow ratings WITH full media in the filter. 

OP, I have a 2213 on a 5.5g mini-m and a 2217 on a 17g tank (ADA 60-p), both work wonderfully. You can adjust the flow down with the outflow quick disconnect if you feel the flow is too strong or you can even drill out the holes on the spray bar to decrease pressure which will decrease water movement. 

In your situation I would get nothing less than a 2215. It is always better to have more than not enough.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

astrosag said:


> Here's the thing...
> 
> Planted tanks often have high bioload and need a lot of filtration.
> 
> My friend uses a $20 filter on this 55g cichlid tank and it works - but that on your 10G or 20G planted tank won't cut it.


Plants actually reduce the need for filtration. The plants themselves will help consume ammonia and other wastes. Planted tanks also usually have more surface area for beneficial bacteria to grown on than non-planted tanks.

Heck, a key aims of the Walsad method is to eliminate the need for a dedicated biological filtration system (plants will take care of the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate, and the soil bacteria will also consume nitrogen). You just need to make sure you have enough flow to prevent deadspots and to keep the water oxygenated.

Often people who start with a heavily planted tank have a hard time getting their biological filter to cycle with the normal "starter fish" since the plants consume the ammonia before the bacteria get a chance to establish themselves. And because many plants consumer both Nitrite and Nitrate, having a planted tank reduces the need for frequent water changes.


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## milesm (Apr 4, 2006)

i have a 2213 on my 20h. it is heavily planted. the eheim by itself does not provide adequate flow. i have an externally mounted 230gph powerhead on a closed loop, running my co2 reactor. output from each is directed to spraybars on opposite ends of the tank. powerhead and lights are on the same timer; the 2213 flow is good when the lights are off, but not enough when lights are on.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

How are you measuring your flow and how are you determining if it is enough or not?


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## milesm (Apr 4, 2006)

RandomMan said:


> How are you measuring your flow and how are you determining if it is enough or not?


i'm using the manufacturer's rating of 230 gph @ 0 head. only friction of the tubes and 90 degree turns slow down flow in a closed loop. i have only one 90 turn (in the reactor itself, not the tubing) and less than 4 ft of tubing. 

it is enough if plants all over the tank are pearling, growing nicely, with very little algae. the stems in the tank should sway gently in the current.

search tom barr's site, he's got pictures on how much flow he uses on his tanks--you'd be surprised.


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

RandomMan said:


> Plants actually reduce the need for filtration. The plants themselves will help consume ammonia and other wastes. Planted tanks also usually have more surface area for beneficial bacteria to grown on than non-planted tanks.


True, but not absolute. Plants do consume ammonia and ideally, one would require little filtration if any. However, most people like to use plants that need more than what low-tech can provide. These planted tanks often require more flow considering that many are injected with CO2 and are fertilized.

If you're running CO2 and/or dosing, flow is required to make sure all plants are getting access to these (more important with CO2). More so, many people with high-tech tanks push for a high turnover rate - essentially more filtration. If you were to poll the people on this site, you'll find that most filter their tanks 2-3x as much as fish-only keepers do. Most of this has to do with high-tech setups. (The OP didn't mentioned high or low tech).

The Walstad method, of course, is all low-tech...almost no-tech! Even then, its almost an entirely different approach (or school of thought) to planted tanks. In the Walstad mehtod you wouldn't need much filtration. It doesn't, however, represent most planted tank aquarists or most planted tanks out there imo.

Ideally, you're right - except you're assuming the plants the OP is using don't require CO2 injection or ferts AND that he has or will have a stable tank when considering fauna's bioload and flora's ability to consume it- not likely. In practicaility, filtration (and over filtration) in planted tanks is more often needed than not simply because of plant selection.


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

To the OP, most planted tank enthusiasts shoot for at least 6x-10x water turnover rate. 

What that means is in a 20G tank, if you shoot for 6x-10x turnover rate, you're looking at 120gph - 200 gph. You're good with a 2215. Anything smaler and you may be underfiltering - of course all this depends on bioload, CO2 injection and fertilizers..but unless you're absolutely fixed on the lowest-tech tanks out there, this shouldn't be an option.

Most planted tank keepers shoot for even higher turnover rate. Over filtration is never a bad thing - tanks have suffered from underfiltration, never from overfiltration.


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

bsmith said:


> Actually Eheim is the only manufacturer that I know of that actually posts their flow ratings WITH full media in the filter.


I think you're right but people here on TPT have tested the advertised flow rates before and found them to be lower in actuality than what is listed. Imo, you can probably expect to have at least slightly lower flow rate than what's advertised regardless of manufacturer.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

astrosag said:


> I think you're right but people here on TPT have tested the advertised flow rates before and found them to be lower in actuality than what is listed. Imo, you can probably expect to have at least slightly lower flow rate than what's advertised regardless of manufacturer.


Doesn't matter, they are the only manufacturer that tests with media installed. With an Eheim you are going to get quite a bit closer to the manufacturers advertised flow rate than with any other filter.


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

bsmith said:


> Doesn't matter, they are the only manufacturer that tests with media installed. With an Eheim you are going to get quite a bit closer to the manufacturers advertised flow rate than with any other filter.


I agree....its sort of why I made the same recommendation you did for an Eheim 2215 a page back...


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

milesm said:


> it is enough if plants all over the tank are pearling, growing nicely, with very little algae. the stems in the tank should sway gently in the current.
> 
> search tom barr's site, he's got pictures on how much flow he uses on his tanks--you'd be surprised.


Ah ok. I see the misunderstanding. I'm approaching this from a "What filter provides adequate filtration for a tank of x size". I was pulled in when astrosag brought up that planted tanks have a high bio-load and need more filtration, which is wrong.

You are approaching it from "what filter provides enough flow to ensure CO2 gets evenly distributed in a heavily planted tank." Two very different questions, and now that you've said that I understand why you would want a higher flow rate. I can see how in a very heavily planted tank, especially with stem plants, how the plants themselves can quickly block the flow, and if you are injecting CO2 from just 1 point, if the water is not flowing quickly enough the first plants along the path of the flow will take more than their fair share leaving not enough CO2 for other plants.

I personally would rather solves that problem the way reef keepers do, and add a some power heads internally in the tank. But I can totally understand why you wouldn't want to do that (takes up space, looks ugly) and would rather just have higher flow coming out of the filter.

So I guess the next time a person asks which filter to get from their tank, I should first ask if they are looking for adequate filtration, or if they're going with a high tech high light tank.


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## ncharlie (May 20, 2011)

Dont know how much help my comment will be. . .

I just installed the 2211 filter for my EBI 10 gallon tank.

I wanted to try a canister tank.

First, these tanks are large. The tank must be about the size of wine bottle.

I picked the 2211 since it is the smallest canister made my Eheim.

You will have to cut to trim the spray bar about 3 inches to fit in, unless you put it vertically.

The valves which came with the tank should allow to control water flow.

The flow seems brisk enough to get everything moving. 

I am running the internal EBI filter and the Eheim together a little to "cycle" the tank. (not really sure if this is right??)

The guys are swimming like crazy but there are enough plants and driftwood to allow for slower current areas.

If I can hide a canister, I would get a bigger one as long as I can control the flow.

I am new to aquariums but in time I would love 20-30 gallon ADA like tank.


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

Yea Random, I think I misspoke when I said high bioload. The bioload isn't high, but the distribution of ferts and CO2 requires high flow. 

For a 10G, 15G, 20G tank, you can certainly add a smaller filter and compensate with some powerheads but thats a lot of mechanical bulk added to a relatively small tank.

In planted tanks "al naturale' you wouldn't even need a filter. Problem is, most of us don't choose plants that can survive in this simple set up. Many of us not only use plants that require high-light, which requires CO2 and fertilizers but would also like to see the crisp, clean, pearling growth that only high tech can provide. Ever seen a true Walstad tank and a high tech tank? You'll see what I'm talking about.

This is what drives the need for high flow/high filtration. 

THere's no question, my initial point being (which I think I bungled), that this hobby overfilters or requires more filtration than a fish only tank. The bio load is irrespective of planted or not...that mostly comes from fish (unless you let your plants and leaves rot in the tank lol).

Regardless of how we're approaching this, you'll notice that the bottom line is the same....go for more filtration than less (more flow than less as well).

A rule of thumb ....turnover rate seems to work well. Shoot for close to 10x in your tank and that'll put your GPH into perspective - which is where all this confusion starts from..there's no perspective when you read 180GPH...that sounds like a waterfall to many novices (including me when I first started).

At 10x in your 10G puts you at 100 gph. In your 20G thats 200 GPH. Now compare flow rates for the 2211, 2213 and 2215 and you'll see 2215 is best, not considering your ability to afford it.


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## astrosag (Sep 3, 2010)

RandomMan said:


> So I guess the next time a person asks which filter to get from their tank, I should first ask if they are looking for adequate filtration, or if they're going with a high tech high light tank.



Ideally, yes you should ask that. But people sort of float over this simply because, in practicality, based on how we all spend our money and how this hobby sort of sucks most of us in, its better to invest in a canister filter. They are very versatile and you can move them from tank to tank as you upgrade and mature in this hobby.

A lot of people don't stick to one tank, let alone sticking to just high-tech/low-tech. Your question is sort of irrelevant because if you ask high-tech and low-tech people with the same size tank, you'll see that many have the same amount of filtration. Most 20G-46G tanks on this site probably use a 2215 or 2217 (or equivalent in other brands) regardless of tech. In fact, not a single person responding to your thread even asked this question to the OP.

Investment wise, most people on this forum push for canisters and those that are slightly oversized for your tank. Simply put, overfiltration never hurts (besides your wallet ) but underfiltration CAN (and I believe Tom Barr said this himself).


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## Jimmyblues (Dec 16, 2010)

*Eheim 2213 Classic Has Plenty Of Flow For A 20 Gallon*



astrosag said:


> I was just joking around buddy.
> 
> Here's the thing...
> 
> ...


 
The Eheim filters may be optimistically rated, however, the 2213 has more than enough flow for a 20 gallon long aquarium with the taps completely open. I had one on my 20 long which worked fine, then moved it to my 37 gallon when I added a Fluval 106 to the 20 long. Both tanks are moderately planted. 

The 2213 may have been able to handle the bioload on the 37 gallon on its own (I was only running the 2213 with the tap 2/3's open in order to reduce the agitation on the water's surface, in order to avoid outgassing and conserve my pressurized C02. 

I like some surface agitation, rather than aiming the spray bar towards the bottom of the tank which eliminates surface agitation altogether - not necessarily good for your fish.

I decided to purchase another 2213 to ease the bioload on the one 2213, while benefitting from redundant filtration.

The 2213's are a bargain at Big Al's who's been running sales on them on and off since the holidays (both 2213's were bought at Big Al's for $69.99 each), and together, they do an excellent job of filtering the water.

I have the taps open about half way using the spray bar for each filter and they work well. If I left the taps open more than this there'd be far too much turbulance on the water's surface, and outgassing of the pressurized CO2 I am using.

As for moving up to the Eheim 2215 (on sale at Big Al's for $99.99) on a 20 gallon, I think it's overkill. However, the taps on these filters remove any concern for too much water flow, since you can adjust the water flow on any Eheim canister filter down to a trickle. 

In my estimate, if you can afford the extra $40, you'd be better off getting two 2213's instead of a single 2215 (while they're on sale), for the benefit of redundant filtration.

The 2211 is basically a great filter for nano tanks, however, Eheim's 40 gallon rating is ridiculous, since the 2211 maxes out at about 20 gallons; provided that the 20 gallon tank has a light bioload.

Then there's the school of minimalism which in the case of fishkeeping means using the smallest filter you can, while still maintaining good filtration.

At one time I used a single Aquaclear 20 on a 37 gallon freshwater tank to see how well it filtered. The tank was lightly planted and with about 10 fish at the time.

The AC 20 actually did a decent job of keeping the water fairly clean, even though the mechanical filter had to be cleaned twice a week. I also diatomed the tank at least once a week, which certainly helped.

Next to an Aquaclear 20, an Eheim 2213 would do a signficantly better job of filtering a tank this size, based on the same conditions. So the size of these filters is relative to how often you want to clean their media.

As for those fishkeepers who clean their canisters every six months or so, it is important to note that these canisters can become "phosphate factories" which will allow for algae blooms. 

Once again, it all depends on how much maintenance you want to do.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

I will agree that Eheims recommended max tank size for the classics is ridiculously optimistic but actually their flow rating (GPH) are the closest to actual real world, in your aquarium full of all the media it came with output numbers. This is because Eheim is the only manufacturer that actually tests and uses the flow ratings with their filters full of media. All others are with an empty canister (rena included). 

I probably posted this earlier in the thread and thats why I got emailed this notification when this thread was responded to but I'm all about going as big as you can when it comes to canisters on a tank. As pointed out above, you can always turn down the flow on the outflow side if you feel wide open is too much. But over the course of 6 months to a year you will eventually crank it all the way open (unless you have a 2217 on a 5g). I have a 2217 on my 60-p which is 17g and a 2213 on my mini-m which is a 5.5g and they are both running full blast. This segueys into my next point about getting a bigger canister than you may think is enough which is the reduced maintenance (unhooking the filter, taking it to the sink and pulling everything out and rinsing it in tank water). On my 60+p with the 2217, I decided to crack the filter open after 6 months and was shock at how little mulm/deritus was in there. It was no where near clogging up or even needing service. I have my calender marked for a year on that one. The 2213 on the mini-m, thats about every 6 months. If you get normal choice canister you will have less options with media, less room for growth, less filtration capacity, increased servicing amounts and you wont be able to tell people you have a filter that the manufacturer recommends for up to a 159g tank on a 17g tank!


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## Jimmyblues (Dec 16, 2010)

*Eheim 2213 Ideal For A 20 Gallon Long*



Ziggy said:


> I have a 10G right now which I want to ditch the AquaClear on. I've satisfied myself that a 2211 is what I want for it, BUT I have ambitions of swapping up to a 15Gal, _maybe_ a 20 within the next 6 months or so (and will NOT be buying another filter).
> 
> My question is with regards to the in-tank flow of these units. I've read here and elsewhere a lot of people using a 2213 on a 20G, but I wonder if it would create too much turbulence for the fish in my current 10, or even a 15 if I go that route. Phrased another way, would a 2211 still be sufficient for 15-20? I have to imagine it would be since Eheim quotes it as being appropriate for "up to" 40Gal, but it seems like 20 and up people are all using the 2213.


 

I use an Eheim 2213 on a 20 long community tank with dwarf hairgrass carpeted on the bottom of the tank, and several baby Amazon Swords.

My fish include fancy guppies, neon tetras and rasbora harlequins.

The 2213 does an excellent job of filtering the tank, and the spray bar keeps just enough surface agitation without outgassing the pressurized CO2 I use for my plants.

As for concerns regarding the water flow of the 2213, buy the kit version of this filter which includes two adjustable valves that can be used to control the flow of water coming from the 2213, and you can put this filter into a 2 gallon tank without any problems.

As for the 2213 having enough water flow for a 20 gallon tank, if you keep the valves on the 2213 fully open the water will shoot out of the Eheim spray bar and right to the front of the aquarium. That is when the Eheim's filter media is clean. When the filter needs a cleaning water flow through the spray bar will be significantly reduced.


*Green & Cloudy Water*

I think many people with planted tanks become frustrated with their filter's inability to keep the water crystal clear, because there are so many nutrients in the water that bacterial blooms as well as algae blooms are inevitable.

They try water changes, adding chemicals that are supposed to clear the water, even spending more money on expensive filtration systems, yet the murky water continues.

Some even make the investment in diatom filters which are great for removing green water and harmful pathogens, however, incapable of preventing the source of these waterborne problems. 

So you can diatom your tank to the point where your water is crystal clear, only to have the murky or green water return a few days later.

The logical answer is to install an ultraviolet sterilizer, since they will kill off the bacteria and algae spores which lead to cloudy or green water.

I have been using an inexpensive uv sterilzer (Aquatop IL UV 10) on my 37 gallon for the past few weeks and the water is now crystal clear.

I use two GLO T-5 lighting fixtures with 96 watts of light (about 2.5 watts per gallon) in this particular aquarium, and they work well. However, because this tank is nearly two feet high and about 2 and half feet in length, it does suffer from intense algae growth at the top portions of the tank.

The plants (Rose Swords) must battle with the algae for nutrients, and often times get covered with it.

The uv sterilizer has gone a long way to easing this problem since it has killed off billions of the algae spores which had begun to overrun my aquarium. 

As such, green water is no longer a problem, however, the T5 lighting and CO2 still produce a lot of algae, so the uv sterilizer must be left on all the time.

I just purchased another uv sterilizer for my 20 gallon tank, which has green water, since the uv sterilizer is the only sure method of killing off the algae spores which cause green water. 

For the most part the Eheim 2213 filter does a good job of removing detritus, however, the Eheim can't filter out algae spores, so they get circulated back into the aquarium.

The green water itself has not harmed my fish in the least. They seem quite healthy and active. However, the objective of owning an aquarium is to actually be able to enjoy watching your fish in their natural habitat, which green water makes impossible.

So this author recommends that any fishkeeper whose tank experiences chronic green water issues try using a uv sterilizer to clear up the green water.

They really do work.

As for the Eheim 2213 and the rest of the Classic series, they are some of the best canister filters ever made and will last a lifetime if you maintain them properly.

Moreover, Eheim's addition of valves plumbed into the input and output tubes of the Classic series has given these filters tremendous flexibility, since you can now use them with much smaller aquariums then you could have before Eheim included these valves with their filters.

The valves also make water changes a breeze; something that could not be said of the Eheim Classic series before the addition of these valves.


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## Jimmyblues (Dec 16, 2010)

*Eheim 2211 VS 2213 On 10 - 20 gallon Aquariums*



Ziggy said:


> I have a 10G right now which I want to ditch the AquaClear on. I've satisfied myself that a 2211 is what I want for it, BUT I have ambitions of swapping up to a 15Gal, _maybe_ a 20 within the next 6 months or so (and will NOT be buying another filter).
> 
> My question is with regards to the in-tank flow of these units. I've read here and elsewhere a lot of people using a 2213 on a 20G, but I wonder if it would create too much turbulence for the fish in my current 10, or even a 15 if I go that route. Phrased another way, would a 2211 still be sufficient for 15-20? I have to imagine it would be since Eheim quotes it as being appropriate for "up to" 40Gal, but it seems like 20 and up people are all using the 2213.


 

I use both Eheim 2211s and 2213s on my planted aquaria. I have four 2211s on tanks ranging from 7.5 to 13.3 gallons, and they work quite well.

In fact, in my opinion, the 2211 could easily filter a 20 gallon aquarium.

However, I had a pair of Eheim 2213s which I once used on a 37 gallon (Overkill) which I have since broken down, so I use one of the 2213s on my
20 gallon long and it works very well.

I like to use redundant filtration in all my planted aquariums: a canister filter and then an hob filter for better circulation and producing oxygen bubbles from the waterfall effect of the hob.

This has turned out be an excellent combination. My hob filters also incorporate uv sterilizers, which work very well for uv clarification. 

In my opinion, these hob/uv filters also have germicidal benefits if you keep the water flow through them at the lowest level.

Both the Eheim 2211 and 2213 also have twin valve taps for adjusting the water flow in your aquarium, so water turbulence will not be a problem.

If money's tight, the 2211 can be had for a bit over $60 at Big Al's Online.

Or you can spend about $80 for the 2213. The 2213 offers the benefit of a
separate media basket which comes in handy when you have to clean the 2213.

Both are excellent filters. One caveat, however, is that the seals in the double valve taps can wear out over time, which will cause the valve taps to leak. So it would be prudent to purchase spare valve taps for both the 2213 and 2211. 

Moreover, while the 2213 uses the same diameter hosing and valve taps for both the input and output hoses, the 2211 uses the same size input hose
as the 2213, however, a smaller diameter output hose. So keep this in mind
If you decide to purchase spare valve taps.


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## limz_777 (Jun 29, 2005)

eheim doesnt sell the seal for the taps ?


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## swoof (Jun 30, 2010)

limz_777 said:


> eheim doesnt sell the seal for the taps ?


I was going to say the same thing, get new o-rings for $5 or new doubletapps for $20.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

The cleanest setup for a planted tank I have seen involved drilling and bulkheads with canister filters. He had a canister on each end with a disk slip on each intake bulkhead and dual cerges reactors from a splitter in his regulator. This was a 6ft long tank and he had no co2 dead spots. 0 equipment or hoses or anything in his tank.


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## Emerica88 (Oct 16, 2009)

I had a 2215 on a 15G 24x12x12 and the flow was weak.


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

Wow...this thread still getting posts more than a year later. As OP I had no idea I'd start such a conversation. 

I have to confess, I never got into the 20Gal I thought I would (space, logistics, money, you know how it goes). In lieu though I just acquired a 8Gal Fluval Flora kit and am looking at a canister for it.... back to the 2211 :icon_roll which I think (this time) is less debatable as it seems more than adequate, the right price, no to mention physical size (space is at a premium!).

Hardest part will be getting the cover glass cut to accommodate (not optional: Cat!).


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## swoof (Jun 30, 2010)

Do you need the lid cut or could you just modify the back corner plastics? I have a fluval flora andthere is room enough for the hoses to go in the corners if the plastic is modified carefully.


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## Ziggy (Sep 2, 2011)

If thats all I needed to do that would be ideal (planing to remove the background anyway), but if I picture the Eheim supply/return hardware correctly, they cant go RIGHT in the corners (the suction cups/clips which hold them dictate they be out a ways?).


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## swoof (Jun 30, 2010)

don't need suction cups if you do it right


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## Jester946 (Mar 30, 2013)

Emerica88 said:


> I had a 2215 on a 15G 24x12x12 and the flow was weak.


What outflow setup? I have a 2215 on my 25 gallon cube, and the flow is INTENSE! With an inline reactor, as well. This is with a cut down spray bar, though I am going with lily pipes soon enough.


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