# Help with Brush, Beard,Fuzz, GS and Hair algae?



## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

You realize you need to start fertilizing. That's good! You will need to develop a fertilizing regime to feed the plants and fight off the algae.

However, looking at your KH (4) and your pH (7), you'll find you have a CO2 level of 12ppm. Not a bad level, but not a good level either. We are all finding out that optimal levels of CO2 (30ppm and up...depending on fish reaction to the CO2 level) are a major requirement in the battle against algae.

You might want to add another CO2 generating bottle to your DIY set up, or possibly going pressurized on your 46G.

Mike


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## dissident (Oct 15, 2003)

jmelnek said:


> My problem is that on the the glass I have green spot algae, and on my java fern, crypts, moss, and dwarf sag's I have what I think is fuzz algae?. It is light brown in color and is growing only on the leaves of the plants it is about 3/8" long little threads. Question is how do I get rid of it along with the green spot algae?
> 
> I do not use any ferts as of yet, been looking up info and I get more confused everytime I read more. I was thinking about going down to the lfs and picking up some Seachem Products but which ones?
> 
> ...


What are your phosphates at? Keeping NO3 and PO4 @ 10:1 will help with the spot. I noticed a drastic improvement once I started dosing P04 to ~1ppm and keeping NO3 ~10 (easy with a high bio-load).

@ 2w/gal you will want to keep your CO2 in the mid 20ppm or higher, which you can hit with the DIY method. I would suggest pressurized which will be a lot easier to maintain and control. If you are dosing ferts and your CO2 runs out it takes a while for DIY to really catch back up before algae starts up. 

SAE will help with the fuzz algae. I have had Flying Fox for a long time since I can never find true SAEs around here but they work fine. IMO your algae eating crew is a little shy of what you need for a 46gal. Ottos (1per 10gal is a good rule IME) and bristle nose will hit a few algae types but won't touch some types.

http://gregwatson.com/
Is a good source for ferts, you will find that commercial ferts can add up $$$ fast. I was dosing almost $30~$50 /month with my 55gal with similar specs to yours (pressurized co2). Now $70 will last me a couple years for my 110gal, 65gal, 55gal, and 45gal.

I was intimidated at first when I got a dozen bags of dry chemicals at my door, but found it easier after the first few times I dosed. After every weekly water change I would add K, Mg, Fe, test for NO3 and PO4. Then dose CSM+B every other day after that. 
Chuck Gladd's nutrient calculator is a vital tool if you go that route.

BTW how often do you do water changes and how much?


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## jmelnek (Dec 20, 2004)

I do a 20% weekly water change, and I do not have a phosphate tester. I will look at gregwatson but what should I buy? and is it all right to maybe add 4 more ottos?


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## dissident (Oct 15, 2003)

If you go greg's route:


(1) Plantex CSM+B (with Iron)
mix 1 Tablespoon /500ml water (or similiar ratio)
Dosing Plantex goes by trial and error for the most part. Start small, couple ML every few days (2-3x/week). If algae appears/gets worse back off a little. This is easier to dose when algae is not present and tank is well balanced, so start light.

(1) Mono Potassium Phosphate
Where you get your phospahates if/when needed. Very little goes a long way.

(2) Potassium Sulfate (best source of Potassium)
You will tend to use a lot of this in comparison to the others

(1) Potassium Nitrate (source of NO3)
You will probably have little use with your bio-load

(2) Magnesium Sulfate (source of Mg)
This is really just run of the mill epsom salt.

Other:
Aquatic Measuring Spoons (comes in a set of 3)
(1/16 tablespoon 1/32 tablespoon 1/64 tablespoon)

I got a digital scale off of eBay for $12 and it is great for measuring out small amounts of dry ferts.



I would get some Siamese Algae Eaters or Flying Fox(two of either would be plenty), depending on what you can find, before you get any more ottos. Also shrimp are fun, more costly (and need a lot to really be effective) but are cool IMO, Amano or cherry reds are nice.

If you don't have many fast growing stem plants, toss in a nice bunch or 2 to out compete the algae for nutrients.


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

CO2 Josh!

Medium light situation or not, get your CO2 up to or over 30ppm and fertilize and the algae will start to abate. 

I am not one to toss fish at algae. Once the algae is gone (which you will be able to accomplish by manipulating the nutrient and CO2 levels) you're stuck with a couple of big, fat lazy SAEs. 

Mike


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## Wö£fëñxXx (Dec 2, 2003)

I'm with Mike, Increase C02 or you're situation will not get any better, you have just enough C02 to make a mess  

Either increase C02 output by adding more, or remove it all together.


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## jmelnek (Dec 20, 2004)

thanks for the replies, I am increasing the CO2 and I have started dosing flourish and excel... Keeping my fingers crossed...

Thank You Everyone!!!

Josh


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## jmelnek (Dec 20, 2004)

How long does it take for the algae to start to go away? I know my questions has many variables but I am looking for rough idea. I started dosing flourish and excel and the algae seems to be getting worse...


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

You are going to have to give things some time. CO2 level has to get up to and over 30ppm and the Flourish Excel needs time to work.

Why are you dosing Flourish?
How much Flourish Excel are you dosing?

Mike


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## jmelnek (Dec 20, 2004)

Momotaro said:


> You are going to have to give things some time. CO2 level has to get up to and over 30ppm and the Flourish Excel needs time to work.
> 
> Why are you dosing Flourish?
> How much Flourish Excel are you dosing?
> ...


I was recomended to dose Flourish by a very repitable lfs and I am dosing so far 2 capfuls or 10ml weekly...


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## Momotaro (Feb 21, 2003)

> I was recomended to dose Flourish by a very repitable lfs and I am dosing so far 2 capfuls or 10ml weekly...


Ah! I see.

I guess my question wasn't posed very well.

Flourish is going to act as a source of micro nutrients. Those are going the be the elements your plants need in very small amounts. The macro nutrients are the elements your plants need in larger amounts. Dosing Flourish alone is not going to address your plants need for NO3, PO4 or K.

Your best bet to beat back the algae you have encountered would be to get your CO2 level up. I know, I sound like a broken record, but that is going to be your first and most important step!  

Mike


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## jmelnek (Dec 20, 2004)

Momotaro said:


> Ah! I see.
> 
> I guess my question wasn't posed very well.
> 
> ...


Thanks I am working on it now it is up to about 18ppm K=6 and PH=7.0. I had an airstone runing at night, now it is not running at all.


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## Georgiadawgger (Apr 23, 2004)

Wö£fëñxXx said:


> I'm with Mike, Increase C02 or you're situation will not get any better, you have just enough C02 to make a mess
> 
> Either increase C02 output by adding more, or remove it all together.



I also agree. I used to have a 46g bow like Wolfen has. CO2!!! You may want to consider a powered reactor to get the co2 to dissolve better...that will only help you get to the target co2 level you want. 

As far as magnesium sulfate...based on your gH I don't think you need that. Just get your plantex csm+b, nitrate and phosphate. 

You can get a phosphate test kit (I use AP) from Bigalsonline.com...if your fish store doesn't have one. It will be important to test your tap water occasionally too (my tap is a "perfect" 10:1 nitrate to phosphate :tongue: ), so I dont' fertilize on my water change days. 

As far as your water changes, you may want to drain out at least 50% of the water. There should be no problems with your fish as long as you use your hand to get the water temp relatively the same. 

Patience is the key...prune all the leaves with algae...all of them...don't skip any. The leaves will grow back, it will look ugly at first, but don't worry. Also if you have any algae on your substrate, rotate your gravel to "bury" the algae. 

Your description sounds like "staghorn" algae (long, gray, filamentous)...its pretty nasty and I always got it when there was an imbalance.


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