# DIY COB LED Help



## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

I did a search on evilbay for "LED Driver" and the results were very confusing.

Most of the drivers in the results appeared to be power supplies but I am unsure if they are the type 1 or type 2 power supplies listed in sumer's guide. 

They all seem to put out very high current, from 3 to 10 or more amps, so this would seem to indicate that they are the type 2 supplies that require an LDD driver?

Here is a photo of a 120W "Driver" that I was considering:










What's more confusing is that in the photo it lists the output current at 10 amps, but in the product description it says the output is DC 12V and 3.75 amps. Is this even possible? If that were actually the case wouldn't it only supply 45 watts of power?

Finally, is there any importance to the voltage? I read something about forward voltage but I didn't grasp the concept completely. Almost all the power supplies I saw seem to put out either 12 or 24 volts DC. If I'm working with 1500 mA of current, then do I need 60 volts?

Sorry for all the newbie questions


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

That driver's not going to work. It's output is only rated for 12V, so it won't light the Vero 18's. I recommend that you use the newer Meanwell LDD-1000H and a cheap 36V DC power supply to power them instead. You don't need to go any fancier than that, but the Meanwell LDD-H's do accept a 5V PWM dimming signal, so adding a cheap Arduino based dimming controller is an option later on.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Thank you so much O2surplus. I will look for both of those recommendations. :hihi:

Despite what it may seem, I have been trying to study and read up on LEDs all day ... but for every answer I get, it seems like 2 more questions pop up.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Thank you so much O2surplus. I will look for both of those recommendations. :hihi:
> 
> Despite what it may seem, I have been trying to study and read up on LEDs all day ... but for every answer I get, it seems like 2 more questions pop up.


just rememer 1 LDD per VEro and the ps needs 30W per Vero..(90W plus at least 10% to spare so 100W or 3A is close enough..)
and output at least 33V (as above 36v is a good compromise)

If you plan on adding more scale up the ps of course..
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS32-Bridgelux-Vero-18-Datasheet.pdf


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Thank you for the additional tips Jeff. I'm curious as to how you guys figured out the LEDs need at least 33V. Is there some calculation or is it listed somewhere in the product description?

So I found a MeanWell RS-100-48 (100W, 48V, 2.3A) for sale on evilBay for a decent price. I assume this will work well for what I need. There's also a 36V version for sale but I thought 48 might be better, just in case. 

I also found the LDD (so I need 3 of them?) but do I need to solder these onto some kind of PCB driver board?


EDIT: Jeff: forgive me if this is a stupid question, but would I be able to use just 1 LDD if I connected the Veros in a series?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Thank you for the additional tips Jeff. I'm curious as to how you guys figured out the LEDs need at least 33V. Is there some calculation or is it listed somewhere in the product description?
> 
> So I found a MeanWell RS-100-48 (100W, 48V, 2.3A) for sale on evilBay for a decent price. I assume this will work well for what I need. There's also a 36V version for sale but I thought 48 might be better, just in case.
> 
> ...


Ldd-HW's have standard wires so no board needed..








as to the rough voltage pg6 lists the V(f) at 85C and 1050mA of current will be drawn.
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS32-Bridgelux-Vero-18-Datasheet.pdf

LDD's need about a 3V differential...
soooo 28.8 plus 3 is 31.8 round up ad add some headroom.. 33V

I'd still find a lower voltage ps. w higher amps. 

251929195856

400W 36V 11A Single Output Switching power supply AC to DC SMPS


you can power 12 Vero's w/ that... 

Yes there are other ways to power them..
IF you want 2 in series remeber voltage adds soooo you'd need a LARGE DC power supply. To be honest in th range of being a bit err.. "dangerous' AND generally expensive.
67 Volts

Now you could, at reduced current due to driver restrictions on the Meanwells put 2 in parallel so the voltage stays the same but you need 2x the current since it will be "split" between the 2

so 2 in parallel on one driver needs 33V and a 1000mA driver will split the current to 500mA per chip..

using the highest ldd-lw at 1500mA you will drive each Vero of the 2 at 750mA..

The plus side is they will run cooler w/ more "lumen/watt" efficiency. The downside is less gross output and if one fails open ALL 1500mA of current will be directed into the remaining "on" chip.
Seee pg7 of spec sheet I posted...
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mean-Well/LDD-1500LW/?qs=JK6Bpmia/munLHBIWsj1oA==

Last thing.. W/ your setup you would need 4 Veros (2 sets) and 2 drivers.
The "savings" in drivers is only about $7.............but the cost of one extra Vero negates that.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Thanks again Jeff. I followed your advice and got a MeanWell 350W 36V PSU - about 9 amps to work with. I had already purchased the LDD drivers (1000H) from Coralux along with the 3 driver PCB board by the time I saw your message. The board seems to be a more organized and "clean" approach anyway. I also just purchased the 3 Veros and heatsinks from Digikey. I thought about adding 3 "Synjet" fans that were specially made for the heatsinks I ordered, but the cost of this is already going up much faster than I expected .... I still need to purchase wires, thermal paste/grease, some sort of enclosure for the PSU and driver board, a power plug cord and eventually a controller to dim the LEDs.

So far I have spent:

3 Bridgelux Vero 18 LEDs: $50
3 Aavid Thermalloy 34W Heatsinks: $36
MeanWell NES 350-36 Power Supply: $48
3 MeanWell LDD-1000H + 3 Driver PCB: $29
Shipping Fees: $6 (got free shipping on the top 3 items)

Total cost so far: $169

For a DIY LED setup with "only 3" LEDs lol. Depending on which direction I want to go, I guess a controller will set me back at least another $50 dollars. The little miscellaneous stuff like wires and thermal paste will probably cost about another 20 to 30. I expect the final total to be around $250. 

Now I suddenly recall why I decided to use PAR38s in the first place. 3 sockets cost me 15 bucks and each bulb was another 15 for a total of 60 dollars.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> 3 Bridgelux Vero 18 LEDs: $50
> 3 Aavid Thermalloy 34W Heatsinks: $36
> MeanWell NES 350-36 Power Supply: $48
> 3 MeanWell LDD-1000H + 3 Driver PCB: $29
> ...


Yea that happens pretty easily..
On the "bright" side you have 90W of efficient lighting..
Enough for, arguably, a medium light for a 180gal tank...  Just ballparking here.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Speaking of "bright light," I've known from the beginning that the 3 Veros would be overkill for my 50 gallon riparium which is why I planned to get a dimming controller in the future.

Considering my tank size, light requirements and the fact that I do not have any fans for my heatsinks, do you think I might be better off just going with 700H LDD drivers instead of the 1000H? Coralux hasn't shipped them yet (weekend) so I have some time to change my order. 

I definitely want to run these things a bit cool, not just because of the heatsinks but I'm also worried they might burn some of my taller riparium plants.

I forgot, I also wanted to ask - should I also purchase lenses for the Vero 18s?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Speaking of "bright light," I've known from the beginning that the 3 Veros would be overkill for my 50 gallon riparium which is why I planned to get a dimming controller in the future.
> 
> Considering my tank size, light requirements and the fact that I do not have any fans for my heatsinks, do you think I might be better off just going with 700H LDD drivers instead of the 1000H? Coralux hasn't shipped them yet (weekend) so I have some time to change my order.
> 
> ...


considering it is a ripariam, all the answers depend on your height and footprint..
But most likely you should use some lenses..

Using a narrower lens and hanging the light higher is "sort of" like dimming..

Anyways start here:
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/261525-choosing-the-right-optic-for-diy-leds/

guess considering the use I'd not bother w/ changing drivers at this point..

assuming an 18" square "footprint.. to cover that a 40 degree lens at 3ft from floor to light is about 26" diameter coverage..

finding Vero lenses seems to be a pain.. 


you can mine this thread for more info.. possibly..
http://www.rollitup.org/t/all-things-vero.851330/page-27
http://www.ledsupply.com/carclo-led-reflectors


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> considering it is a ripariam, all the answers depend on your height and footprint..
> But most likely you should use some lenses..
> 
> Using a narrower lens and hanging the light higher is "sort of" like dimming..
> ...



Wow thanks for all the detailed information and links. Actually, I don't want to purchase lenses for dimming. For dimming I will just purchase a dimmer/controller like the Coralux Storm. 

Mainly I think I might need a lens to narrow the beam (the LED says 120 degrees to I want to narrow it maybe to 90) and to protect it from moisture. I mist the plants frequently so there is a chance moisture can get on the LED board if it is exposed. I will take a look at the threads you recommended and hopefully I can find something there. thanks again :icon_smil


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Wow thanks for all the detailed information and links. Actually, I don't want to purchase lenses for dimming. For dimming I will just purchase a dimmer/controller like the Coralux Storm.


The dimming by height thing is just an offshoot consideration..

your type of use will require some lens since 120 degrees will spill considerably at height..
At 3 feet the "image circle" @ 120 degrees is 10 FEET...


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> The dimming by height thing is just an offshoot consideration..
> 
> your type of use will require some lens since 120 degrees will spill considerably at height..
> At 3 feet the "image circle" @ 120 degrees is 10 FEET...


I found a few places selling some nice Ledil reflectors and lenses for Vero but the prices, including shipping to Korea, are really crazy. I'm looking at 60 to 70 dollars just for 3 reflectors!!

I'd rather spend that money first on a controller. I'm debating right now whether to buy one like the Storm or learn to make one myself with Arduino. I think the cost is going to end being similar but it will be a heckuva lot more fun learning to make one myself. Will probably also take 20X longer with as many headaches....

those who have experience with the Vero 18 - do you think I will need fans on the heatsinks? each Vero will be mounted on its own Aavid Thermalloy 38W Spotlight Heatsink. I need to plan my remaining budget accordingly...

Sent from my LG-F240S using Tapatalk


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

skoram said:


> those who have experience with the Vero 18 - do you think I will need fans on the heatsinks? each Vero will be mounted on its own Aavid Thermalloy 38W Spotlight Heatsink. I need to plan my remaining budget accordingly...
> 
> Sent from my LG-F240S using Tapatalk



I've got 12 Vero 18's on a 6' Makers Heat Sink and cooling fans are a necessity. Don't skimp here. Keep the Vero's as cool as possible.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

O2surplus said:


> I've got 12 Vero 18's on a 6' Makers Heat Sink and cooling fans are a necessity. Don't skimp here. Keep the Vero's as cool as possible.


OK you sold me O2. the controller can wait. I don't want to damage or shorten the lifespan of these LEDs.

Another question: is there any potential benefit to getting a 48V PSU instead of 36V? I just noticed a MeanWell 48V 350W (7.5A) PSU for sale at the same price as the 36V 350W that I ordered by the same company (it's actually one dollar cheaper!). I did a quick Google search on this but couldn't find any results. If anyone has some insight, please let me know quickly while I can still change my order - thanks!

EDIT: (Sorry for the tidal wave of questions) About to purchase the fans but it appears they sell 4 versions (http://www.aavid.com/led-cooling/spotlight-led-cooler-heatsink-38w). PWM 5V, Level Select 5V, PWM 12V and Level Select 12V. I assume PWM is better than Level Select but what about 5V vs. 12V?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> OK you sold me O2. the controller can wait. I don't want to damage or shorten the lifespan of these LEDs.
> 
> Another question: is there any potential benefit to getting a 48V PSU instead of 36V? I just noticed a MeanWell 48V 350W (7.5A) PSU for sale at the same price as the 36V 350W that I ordered by the same company (it's actually one dollar cheaper!). I did a quick Google search on this but couldn't find any results. If anyone has some insight, please let me know quickly while I can still change my order - thanks!


doesn't make any difference really..I'd get the bigger one


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> doesn't make any difference really..I'd get the bigger one


Yea I noticed in other "Vero 18" threads most people are using a 48V PSU, but I have no idea why that might be considered better than 36V. It's more volts, but fewer amps. If you haven't guessed by now, I am a complete beginner to electronics


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Yea I noticed in other "Vero 18" threads most people are using a 48V PSU, but I have no idea why that might be considered better than 36V. It's more volts, but fewer amps. If you haven't guessed by now, I am a complete beginner to electronics


a list of single Vero drivers.. 
http://aceleds.com/compatible-bridgelux.php
As you can see you don't go over 36V (well 38 really) until you have drive currents >1000mA approx. Even though the V(f) is still only 30-ish volts.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> a list of single Vero drivers..
> http://aceleds.com/compatible-bridgelux.php
> As you can see you don't go over 36V (well 38 really) until you have drive currents >1000mA approx. Even though the V(f) is still only 30-ish volts.


Oh I think I see now. If I ever wanted to go over 1000mA and "overclock" my LEDs I'd want a 48V PSU. That will probably _never_ happen - these will probably be too bright even at 1000 mA - but I guess it doesn't hurt to at least have that option on the table. I put in the request earlier to swap for the 48V version. 

On a related note, just ordered the following:










My total bill has now reached about $285 still not including a controller, 12V power adapters and a few other odds and ends. New projected budget: $400. ouch.

I used to think that reduced cost was one big benefit of DIY setups. Now? Not so much ...


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

skoram said:


> I used to think that reduced cost was one big benefit of DIY setups. Now? Not so much ...


I think you'll change your mind after see how much better your lighting performs, when compared to commercially available products at the same price. Also a plus...you get the pride that comes from doing it yourself.:wink:


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

To O2surplus, jeffkrol and others:

First I want to thank you guys for all the advice and feedback you provided in this thread. The generosity that you show in sharing your expertise and skills with members of this forum constantly amazes me. 

As I mentioned earlier, I am thinking about trying to build my own controller for the LEDs (and a few other things like the heatsink fans and a misting system). I love to customize things for my own unique needs and am very interested in learning about electronics. However, there is one huge problem - right now I know almost nothing about electronic circuits and programming. I know as much about electronics as your average Joe walking down the street. A few weeks ago, I didn't even know the relationship between power, volts and amps. I now know what a resistor does but I still have no idea what a capacitor is. You get the idea. With all that said, I have 2 simple questions I'd like your thoughts on:

1. Given how little I know right now, should I even bother? 

2. If I decided to try and make my own controller, how would you guys feel about answering a bunch of newbie controller-related questions from a clueless idiot?


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

skoram said:


> To O2surplus, jeffkrol and others:
> 
> First I want to thank you guys for all the advice and feedback you provided in this thread. The generosity that you show in sharing your expertise and skills with members of this forum constantly amazes me.
> 
> ...


To answer your first question-

It's alright that you don't know everything. This is what makes the Internet so awesome and why Online forums are so popular.... You can find the knowledge you presently lack, by asking questions. If learning something new and the satisfaction gained from building something with your own two hands is important to you..... I say keep going....ask questions....learn....and do it yourself. There's plenty of Online resources available...if you take the time to look.

Second question-

Yes- I'll help you out and there are plenty of threads right here that will cover the information you need to build your own controller. Take a look at the iAqua controller thread on this forum for some inspiration. It may not be exactly what you want in every detail, but it'll help you get started with the basics.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> 1. Given how little I know right now, should I even bother?
> 
> 2. If I decided to try and make my own controller, how would you guys feel about answering a bunch of newbie controller-related questions from a clueless idiot?


Your choice but don't do it to save money.. at least on a basic level.. 
you "might" save $20 parting it out yourself:
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Typhon-Typhoon-LED-Controller-8794102479.htm
For a few $'s you can add the part to allow you to interface to a computer and re-program it to your hearts content.. 
Savings really come in when you expand the controller to more channels more functions, each has a bit of their own learning curve.,


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Thanks for the support guys. I decided to go for it. I figured that I'd eventually be able to figure it out but was not sure how much time and effort it would take - months? years?

I've also taken a look at a number of threads including the iAqua controller, but it seems to me the information is presented from the perspective of someone who already has some background in electronics/programming, speaking to others who have some background in electronics/programming, so a lot of it is hard to make any sense of. 

However, I definitely don't want to rely too much on people for basic information I can get myself with a little effort searching the internet so I spent about 3-4 hours yesterday reading basic tutorials on sparkfun starting from the very beginning - "What is Electricity" - lol.



jeffkrol said:


> Your choice but don't do it to save money.. at least on a basic level..
> you "might" save $20 parting it out yourself:
> http://shop.stevesleds.com/Typhon-Typhoon-LED-Controller-8794102479.htm
> For a few $'s you can add the part to allow you to interface to a computer and re-program it to your hearts content..
> Savings really come in when you expand the controller to more channels more functions, each has a bit of their own learning curve.,


Yea I've figured out the part about not saving money through DIY by now :tongue: The experience of learning something totally new and very useful coupled with the ability to customize to my exact preferences are the reasons I'd go with my own controller.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

OK here's my first controller related question. Forgive me if it's a stupid one. Since I will have a separate fan and heatsink for each Vero, is it possible to connect the LED and its corresponding fan to the same channel from the controller? For example, Fan1 connected to PWM output 1 on the controller, with a line from the same controller going to the LDD Driver connected to LED1. I'm asking this because I'm trying to figure out how many PWM outputs I will need on the controller and, subsequently, what kind of microcontroller I will need.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> OK here's my first controller related question. Forgive me if it's a stupid one. Since I will have a separate fan and heatsink for each Vero, is it possible to connect the LED and its corresponding fan to the same channel from the controller? For example, Fan1 connected to PWM output 1 on the controller, with a line from the same controller going to the LDD Driver connected to LED1. I'm asking this because I'm trying to figure out how many PWM outputs I will need on the controller and, subsequently, what kind of microcontroller I will need.


W/ the correct fan it is possible.. There are different "types" of PWM and/or speed control fans..Not my forte so I'll just stop there.

That said I'd prefer a more "data controlled" fan based on a thermistor or sensor than just at whatever the PWM value is..
http://www.enika.cz/download/Automatizac/Fans/Termistor.pdf


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

StormX from Coralux has 16 channels.
They have LDD Driver boards and fan controller boards/adapters.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> W/ the correct fan it is possible.. There are different "types" of PWM and/or speed control fans..Not my forte so I'll just stop there.
> 
> That said I'd prefer a more "data controlled" fan based on a thermistor or sensor than just at whatever the PWM value is..
> http://www.enika.cz/download/Automatizac/Fans/Termistor.pdf


I hope to do something like that in the future, set the fan speed automatically based on the temperature ... but I'm a total beginner so I need to start off slowly  The fans I purchased are Synjets, so they aren't actually fans. I chose them because they were specifically designed for the heatsinks I purchased. I didn't realize until later that they are actually oscillating diaphragms which are supposedly better than fans at cooling (so they say). Anyway, they are supposed to function the same as 12V PWM fans. 



Maryland Guppy said:


> StormX from Coralux has 16 channels.
> They have LDD Driver boards and fan controller boards/adapters.


Thanks for the rec. I was actually thinking about the StormX before I decided to build a customized controller myself.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> I hope to do something like that in the future, set the fan speed automatically based on the temperature ... but I'm a total beginner so I need to start off slowly  The fans I purchased are Synjets, so they aren't actually fans. I chose them because they were specifically designed for the heatsinks I purchased. I didn't realize until later that they are actually oscillating diaphragms which are supposedly better than fans at cooling (so they say). Anyway, they are supposed to function the same as 12V PWM fans.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the rec. I was actually thinking about the StormX before I decided to build a customized controller myself.


From the specsheet and "if" I'm reading this correctly PWM curcuit can go as high as 140mA peak w/ 70mA average..

This w/ or wout ganged w/ the LDD "may" be more than the PWM out can handle..


The real circuit geeks may need to chime in here to say if it a problem or possible "work around"..

http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/led/Aavid-Linear-Light-Cooler30W-April2015.pdf

PWM "pin" is only rated up to 40mA...


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## MrMan (Dec 5, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> From the specsheet and "if" I'm reading this correctly PWM curcuit can go as high as 140mA peak w/ 70mA average..
> 
> This w/ or wout ganged w/ the LDD "may" be more than the PWM out can handle..
> 
> ...


It has a separate Vdd pin and PWM pin so the current should be on the Vdd pin not PWM. While it doesn't specify the current on the PWM pin it should be fairly high impedance (ie low current, maybe a mA). 

I'm looking forward to see how this turns out, i looked at these heatsink/coolers awhile ago but haven't had the time (or money) to build my own LED unit yet.

edit:
Just found a datasheet on PWM control. Looks like you need 20-40kHz which is higher than normal, whatever controller you get make sure it can put out pwm in this range. Still 0-5V on the 12V model and as i expected less than 1 mA.

http://www.digikey.ca/Web Export/Su...ntix-an-synjet-cooling-pulse.pdf?redirected=1


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

MrMan said:


> edit:
> Just found a datasheet on PWM control. Looks like you need 20-40kHz which is higher than normal, whatever controller you get make sure it can put out pwm in this range. Still 0-5V on the 12V model and as i expected less than 1 mA.
> 
> http://www.digikey.ca/Web Export/Su...ntix-an-synjet-cooling-pulse.pdf?redirected=1


LDD-H's run @ 100-1KHz.. so ganging them looks out of the question.. Frequency mis-match..

as to the current I assume I mis-read and there are 2 "versions" 5V and 12V and none of the specs were the PWM "pin" so to speak.. my bad..


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Actually I purchased the Synjet ZFlow75:

http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/led/Aavid-SynJet-ZFlow75-March-2015.pdf

It's the 12V version so the current is a bit lower, but the peak is still over 40mA...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Actually I purchased the Synjet ZFlow75:
> 
> http://www.aavid.com/sites/default/files/products/led/Aavid-SynJet-ZFlow75-March-2015.pdf
> 
> It's the 12V version so the current is a bit lower, but the peak is still over 40mA...


No that is the fan current. not the PWM "signal" current.
MrMan is correct.
So IF the PWM used the same frequency it would work. UNFORTUNATELY they don't..


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> LDD-H's run @ 100-1KHz.. so ganging them looks out of the question.. Frequency mis-match..
> 
> as to the current I assume I mis-read and there are 2 "versions" 5V and 12V and none of the specs were the PWM "pin" so to speak.. my bad..


OK ... I was actually thinking about connecting the fan to the PWM output directly on the controller, not on the LED LDD driver. But now I realize the fans also need a "driver" of sorts to adjust the signal to the fans specifications. this is getting more complicated by the minute lol. lots of reading to do ....


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Putting aside the PWM control for now, can I power these fans using a normal 12V wall adapter with say 0.5 - 1A current? I have everything I need now to setup the LEDs for continous 100% output (no controller) but I am a bit confused about power supply for the fans.


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## MrMan (Dec 5, 2014)

skoram said:


> Putting aside the PWM control for now, can I power these fans using a normal 12V wall adapter with say 0.5 - 1A current? I have everything I need now to setup the LEDs for continous 100% output (no controller) but I am a bit confused about power supply for the fans.


Yea, a standard 12V wall adapter is fine, how many fans is it running? I think it was max 92mA so just multiply that by the number of fans to know how much current you need. 

You can leave the PWM pin floating and it will run at 100%, short it to the gnd pin to disable it (ie your controller could at least turn it on/off with a digital pin).


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

MrMan said:


> Yea, a standard 12V wall adapter is fine, how many fans is it running? I think it was max 92mA so just multiply that by the number of fans to know how much current you need.
> 
> You can leave the PWM pin floating and it will run at 100%, short it to the gnd pin to disable it (ie your controller could at least turn it on/off with a digital pin).


Thank you MrMan  Yes, the peak was 92 mA. I was worried because 500 mA is well over 92 x 3 mA and I wasn't sure what would happen due to the extra current. I assume there is some internal resistance but didn't want to risk burning out these expensive fans. Thank you once again.

One other question - is it OK to connect these fans in series? or should I connect them in parallel?


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## MrMan (Dec 5, 2014)

skoram said:


> Thank you MrMan  Yes, the peak was 92 mA. I was worried because 500 mA is well over 92 x 3 mA and I wasn't sure what would happen due to the extra current. I assume there is some internal resistance but didn't want to risk burning out these expensive fans. Thank you once again.
> 
> One other question - is it OK to connect these fans in series? or should I connect them in parallel?


Definitely parallel. Excess current is fine, it will only draw as much as it needs to, you want the supply to have excess capability

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

I finally received all of the parts for my LED system. Just off the top of my head:

Bridgelux Vero 18 (Decor) 5600 90CRI X3
Spotlight Cooler 38W Heatsink X3
SynJet ZFlow75 12V PWM Fan X3
Ledil Barbara Reflector X3
Ledil Barbara socket for Vero 18 X3
wire harnesses for LEDs and Fans X3
MeanWell 350W 48V Power Supply
MeanWell LDD-1000H Driver X3
LDD PCB Board (Coralux)
PWM Fan Power and Control Board (Coralux)
Arduino UNO Beginner's Kit X1
Arduino LED Shield X1
DS3232 RTC Module X1

Also bought an assortment of screws, 22AWG wire, barrel plugs, butt connectors, multimeter, a crimping tool and some soldering equipment. I'm pretty all this ran me about $600 in total. 

I assembled the LED units (LED, heatsink, fan and reflector) and tried connecting one to the power supply last night without a controller (only power connections). Here are some quick photos:


























I tested all the connections and am fairly sure they are all correct in the proper locations, but there was no current coming out of the LDD driver. I thought that if I connected everything without PWM it would just light up the LED at 100%. Am I correct in assuming this is because there was no incoming PWM signal? I hope this is the case as otherwise it means I screwed up somewhere or the LED is defective.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Thinking that Coralux has a resistor on board.
Prevents PWM signal loss from driving to 100%.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Thinking that Coralux has a resistor on board.
> Prevents PWM signal loss from driving to 100%.


you hit the nail on the head Guppy. i just checked the Coralux site and it says the LED outputs shut off when there is no PWM signal. that solves that problem.

Sent from my LG-F240S using Tapatalk


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

Gotta love the good looks of that Heatsink/Synjet cooler combination! Excellent choice!


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

O2surplus said:


> Gotta love the good looks of that Heatsink/Synjet cooler combination! Excellent choice!


Thanks O2! I'm pretty pleased with how it looks as well. An added benefit is that supposedly this fan/heatsink system is supposed to be much more effective than a regular fan. I originally wanted to purchase the Lenina reflector from Ledil, but the Barbara was the only one I could find available anywhere for the Vero 18. I'm not complaining too much though since it is a fairly nice substitute.

I can't wait to get everything set up but that still seems like a long way off. At this moment I'm reading through the tutorials on electronics at allaboutcircuits.com and I'm about halfway through the book "Beginning C for Arduino" by Jack Purdum.


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

After I got home from work today I was finally able to test the LED using my Arduino and a basic analogwrite sketch. As soon as I hit the switch I realized that these Vero 18s are waaaaay overkill for my setup. At full blast 3 of these things would probably fry all of my riparium plants. 

Thankfully, overkill can be solved by lowering the intensity using PWM or lower current LDDs. I wouldn't be surprised if one Vero 18 puts out more light than all 3 of the Chinese made PAR38 bulbs I am currently using - and each of those bulbs is supposedly using 36 watts ... The wattage was one of the primary reasons I chose the Vero 18s. I knew the Veros would be better but at 30W a piece I figured that they'd be at least mildly similar to the bulbs I am currently using. Boy was I wrong. 

Here's a shot of the LED lit up with a PWM brightness setting of 20 (about 0.4 volts):


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

skoram said:


> As soon as I hit the switch I realized that these Vero 18s are waaaaay overkill for my setup. At full blast 3 of these things would probably fry all of my riparium plants.


LOL- You should see how bright 12 of them are @ 1400ma each. It's like staring directly at the noon day sun.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> Here's a shot of the LED lit up with a PWM brightness setting of 20 (about 0.4 volts):


just have to say this.. It is not .4V... It is whatever voltage the Vero takes at the LDD mA output.. BUT just pulsed to "on" at 20% of the time..

20% of the time it is 29V 80% of the time it is zero (well not exactly but for the Vero it is equiv)

example:


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

jeffkrol said:


> just have to say this.. It is not .4V... It is whatever voltage the Vero takes at the LDD mA output.. BUT just pulsed to "on" at 20% of the time..
> 
> 20% of the time it is 29V 80% of the time it is zero (well not exactly but for the Vero it is equiv)
> 
> example:



I think the OP meant 20/255 PWM steps out of the Arduino, but I could be wrong.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

O2surplus said:


> I think the OP meant 20/255 PWM steps out of the Arduino, but I could be wrong.


Possibly, but doesn't hurt to err on the side of caution.

either way it is a minor issue but occurs soo often I feel obligated to point out the actual "mechanics".. Just "me".. 

Besides if I correct errors and I myself make one it almost guarantees someone will fix me..


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> Possibly, but doesn't hurt to err on the side of caution.
> 
> either way it is a minor issue but occurs soo often I feel obligated to point out the actual "mechanics".. Just "me"..
> 
> Besides if I correct errors and I myself make one it almost guarantees someone will fix me..


yea sorry I meant 20/255 brightness steps from the Arduino and 0.4V out of 5 volts on the PWM signal (measured with a multimeter). I really appreciate you continuously checking my assumptions for errors and trying to help me - it is very comforting to know


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skoram said:


> yea sorry I meant 20/255 brightness steps from the Arduino and 0.4V out of 5 volts on the PWM signal (measured with a multimeter). I really appreciate you continuously checking my assumptions for errors and trying to help me - it is very comforting to know


Actually the same thing applies to the PWM wire.. Your meter is "averaging"..


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

jeffkrol said:


> Actually the same thing applies to the PWM wire.. Your meter is "averaging"..


LOL- The meter is actually showing the RMS value of the signal.......... just to be exact.:wink:


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## skoram (Aug 9, 2012)

I finally got around to installing the LEDs into my steel pipe fixture this week :










I wanted to see what the light would be like without the reflectors. I found the soft diffusion kind of nice and allowed some of the light to hit the top of my star grass stems. With the reflectors the light is more intense and of course the radius is smaller, though it still covers pretty much everything within the area of the tank. 










My "ghetto" controller setup:









I'm still waiting for the fan control board from Coralux so the fans are not operational yet. The lights are currently running at 40 out of 255 brightness so I'm not too worried about overheating. I touched the heatsinks after a few hours and they were just a little warm. Given how bright the Veros are, I don't think I will need to go much higher than 40, maybe 100 (absolute maximum 150?), so I will probably switch out the LDD-1000s for 700 or 600 at some point to improve the efficiency of the LEDs. 

At some point of time in the (hopefully near) future I plan to:


Add some kind of display to the Arduino and program it to turn the LEDs and fans on and off according to a set time schedule which I can adjust through direct input.
Add temperature sensors to the heatsinks and program the Arduino to turn the fans on and off according to the temperature readings.
Add a misting system (ala MistKing) which will be controlled by the Arduino through a relay, and program the Arduino to turn the misting system on and off according to a set schedule or based on humidity sensor readings.
Organize all the boards, wires and connectors in a nice enclosure


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## MrMan (Dec 5, 2014)

Any updates on this? I'm also curious what size tank that is. I've got a 50 gallon and trying to decide if two Vero 18s would work, each one would be lighting an 18" cube basically.


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## Shanefe (Sep 8, 2015)

Great thread. Please Update. I am looking at a DIY COB lighting upgrade as well.


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