# BGA/Cyano Bacteria MADNESS!!!!!



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

I started a thread about trying to rid my tank of GDA/Green Dust Algae and in the end I found that I had an infestation of BGA/Blue Green Algae/Cyano Bacteria and that was sucking all of the N from the water allowing th GDA, which thrives in low Nitrogen environs to proliferate. 

Now, about 1.5 months later after I thought I had bested this blue-green beast, it has quite literally come back 5x's worse than it was and is now threatening to cause me to have to tear the tank down and sterilize it with fire!!! (not really but I think that helps drive the point/situation home) 

I believe I re-infected the tank by transferring some plants from my home tank that was fighting with Cyano into this tank, the 60-p. Strangely enough though the tank at my home from which the stem in question came from is doing wonderful after treatment and has not even a spec of Cyano. 

So I went to Pets-mart tonight and snagged 2 boxes of API's E.M.Erythromycin (at $15/box containing 10 packets, which 1 packet treats 10g!!!) and just started a new dosing regimen. I put 3 packets in cause im hitting it hard this time!!!

Some pics of the bacterial wonderland! 


































































































































This is what it looked like when there was no BGA madness in session...










































It makes me soooooo sad to look at those beautiful pics of the verdant glass cube I had at one point. This really is an epidemic, no better yet a Plague that im dealing with that like its historical predecessor is sucking the manna out of my tank in the most horrendous fashion and it needs to be eradicated with the utmost quickness!

I also picked up 4 Black Mollies to hopefully eat some of this Cyano too. I figured that since Mollies can somewhat breath air, they would stand somewhat of a chance at surviving as long as I turn the co2 levels down a bit from the levels at which they were. If they do not look like they can take it or even better and what im hoping, they do help the cause and eat the Cyano, after its all gone or they have served their usefulness I will happily take them out of this tank and find them a home in one of the planted sanctuaries I have at home. 

I will update the thread with pics and commentary when I feel the need. 

Wish me luck.....


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## Jaguar (Oct 13, 2011)

Unless I'm missing some pics, I don't actually see any BGA in that tank... it really is a vivid turquoisey color. I have a *tiny* bit in one of my tanks and it completely sticks out. I just see a lot of GDA and hair algae. 










Posting details about your setup should help, though. Lights, ferts, substrate, etc. Reducing your photoperiod is a good move against algae until you can find out the underlying cause (and sometimes it's just too long of a period).

ETA: This can help you ID what you're growing in there 

http://aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I concur. That ain't bga. Looks more like a filamentous algae or Rhizoclonium.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

It was tested under a microscope, all of those alga's your talking about are in fact Cyano Bacteria which is one of the reasons I am posting this up. I believe that for about as long as we have been trying to keep any nuisance alga's out of our tanks that in this case, with these bacteria we have been treating it incorrectly as a plant and not what it really is, a bacteria. 

On a side note, I dont know what the record for fish anesthetization is but I put these 4 black mollies in the tank and roughly 8 minutes later they were all floating at the surface! They are all fine and at the moment are in a 5g bucket filled with water from my CRS tank (mini-m crs/crypt playground in the sig) which has no co2 in it at all and are swimming around like normal now. 

But that points out something that is very clear, I have plenty of co2 in the tank. That is one of the first things needed to be investigated whenever we have algae problems, co2 levels. 99% of the time this is the sole problem to the members algae frustrations. If having mollies about fall asleep after being in the tank for less then 10 minutes doesn't prove that there is plenty of co2 in the water, I dont know what does!


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

You know... That's a lot of light for a relatively low plants mass. The causes I've read about for this type of algae are generally under dosing and/poor tank conditions. If this was my tank I would try more plants/more ferts/thorough cleaning/less light.

I am curious about using a antibiotic though.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

Those are indeed cyanobacteria, my fellows. Pictures  


















(top layer shows how "Cyanobacteria get their name from the bluish pigment phycocyanin, which they use to capture light for photosynthesis.")









BGA doesn't just look like sheets, it can be dots, fluffy, stringy, and even black, green and red in color. There are hundreds upon hundreds types of cyanobacteria: http://www-cyanosite.bio.purdue.edu/images/images.html

It is my belief much of the green hairy algae people claim to be algae on this forum is often cyanobacteria. 

Sounds like your co2 is pretty high bsmith and judging from that yellow drop checker, I wouldn't doubt it. I am actually kind of excited to see if this process works on this tank as well as it did with your other one.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

oldpunk78 said:


> You know... That's a lot of light for a relatively low plants mass. The causes I've read about for this type of algae are generally under dosing and/poor tank conditions. If this was my tank I would try more plants/more ferts/thorough cleaning/less light.
> 
> I am curious about using a antibiotic though.


Believe me my friend, I went through EVERYTHING and was at my wits end prior to Sara (sewingalot) pulling me from the depths of tank depression after she enlightened me with info about cyanobacteria. 

I change 50% of the water weekly, I dose EI for a 20g-40g tank.

I also thought that the 70mh was going to be a stupid/un sustainable amount to fight for this tank but really its not that bad. The light is ~24" from the substrate or 12" from the water surface. I was mystified by the Ludwigia 'red' I had in this tank because I was certain that with this light it would be so red it would hurt to look at it. Completely wrong, it was greener than Kermit the frog! I took some stems out and brought them home to put in my 37g which is lit by a 4x24w cat t5ho (on legs) and within a week they were starting to red up very nicely. 

The light on this tank is a brand new (less then a month) Philips Mastercolour which is a 4200k bulb with a CRI in the 92 area. I am listing this just to let everyone know that the bulb is not old and therefor would not be contributing to the lack of red in this certain Ludwigia.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

You should link your other thread about your Appalachian Allure tank problems here as well. Maybe that will help show what you previously learned in addition to what happens now.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Hmmm. My fishneedit 70w hqi is 25" above the substrate on my 60P. Something tells me your light is better than mine. I also was having issues with red plants. I just started dosing iron the other day though. The only algae issue I have is with bba - getting better. 

I wonder if it has anything to do with a HID's usable light spectrum? 

Eh... It all really boils down to balance. We're pushing better than 4wpg (don't tell me that's outdated - I know - It's still lots of light). Finding the balance is harder. 

To be honest, I wish I could be of more help - I will be fallowing this thread closely. 

Are you still using the Tropica all-in-one? I think I read somewhere on their site to lean things out if algae like this becomes an issue.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

oldpunk78 said:


> Hmmm. My fishneedit 70w hqi is 25" above the substrate on my 60P. Something tells me your light is better than mine. I also was having issues with red plants. I just started dosing iron the other day though. The only algae issue I have is with bba - getting better.
> 
> I wonder if it has anything to do with a HID's usable light spectrum?
> 
> ...



Yes with Hoppy uncovering the poor numbers from the FNI t5ho I wonder if those numbers would also be low with their MH. 

BBA is a strange algae but IME it always boils down to not enough or not constant enough co2 levels. 

I wish it was as easy as the MH putting out a spectrum that the bacteria liked. When this problem reared it's head the first time the tank was illuminated by a cat aqua 3x24w t5ho fixture. 

I use the TPN+ on this tank once weekly after the WC but have also dosed the tank with Rootmedics line of macro and micro liquids and also their line of complete ferts. I just got the complete but since this stuff started going nuts I decided to just use straight dry EI during the treatment. No real reason behing going back to straigt dry EI, but I just feel that since I have had multiple tanks work great with the appropriate EI regimin that I should just do that during treatment as I know for sure that it will provide no limiting amounts of nutrients. 

Don't worry about "helping/contributing" just yet. I'm sure that as things progress you will have plenty of chances to insert your $.02.


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

I'd add more plants in after you have completed the Erythromycin treatment.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Capsaicin_MFK said:


> I'd add more plants in after you have completed the Erythromycin treatment.


That is the plan. At one point the tank was chock full of plants but this Cyano is a N fixing animal and therefore it leaves little to no N left for the plants. Adding more just compounds the issue as that means there is just more plant mass looking for N and also more space for the Cyano to live and suck up more N. I'm telling you its a very very large PITA to deal with but it will never bring me down!


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## Jaguar (Oct 13, 2011)

Interesting. Good luck with the antibiotics then.


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## MoeBetta (Feb 5, 2011)

You know, I had this recently in my 10 gallon. I do diy co2 and tbh, I stopped mixing fresh. I did a few water changes, it was all over, in the aquaclear, substrate, on plants, in moss.

I never medicated, or actively fought it. Eventually it just disappeared.

I've since started dosing again and the plants in that tank are coming back. I'll let you know ING it came back.

Also, I never changed the lights, which is a single spiral cfl in a brooder lamp.

I at one point added some Nerites and amano shrimp, but I never saw them touch the stuff. It was shortly after that that it disappeared for good.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

A bit over a month later and I'm still dealing with this menace. I have learned to keep it in check by taking the larger cylindrical end piece of my gravel vac off and just using the tubing to suck the Cyano out. It's really amazing how easily this stuff comes off of whatever its growing on. 

I dont have much to report but after a short discussion with TPT's favorite mad scientist Sara (Sewingalot), she and I think that perhaps the fact that I inject so much co2 into the tank causing there still to be very high amounts of it in the tank water when the lights are off that maybe this is disrupting the bacterial colonies that live in the tank and that might be allowing the Cyanobacteria to thrive. So today I adjusted my solenoid timer to shut off two hours earlier than I had been running (2.5 hours before the lights go off) to see if that has any effect on the proliferation of the Cyano. 

Here are pics of the tank that I just took. Enjoy! Remember, I sucked the vast majority of the Cyano on Wednesday, that's right two days ago!


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## green_valley (Sep 14, 2011)

bsmith, it seems like the tank looks much better than the last pictures post. I was really wondering, I saw your beautiful tank pictures. How long until the disaster happened? how long did it take?


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

green_valley said:


> bsmith, it seems like the tank looks much better than the last pictures post. I was really wondering, I saw your beautiful tank pictures. How long until the disaster happened? how long did it take?


I filled this tank with water in June of 2010 and have been dealing with this Cyano Monster for at least 3 months so roughly 15 months after the tank was set up. 

Its better looking only because I sucked most of it out two days ago and have learned how to do so with the tubing from my gravel vacuum. 

I have dumped at least 3 boxes of E.M. Erythromycin in the tank which is about 15 days treatment or 4-5 full treatments according to API. Perhaps I have created an antibiotic resistant form here but I find that hard to believe and think the story's about such a thing are just that, a story. 

I have been contemplating purchasing some of this.

Ultralife 'Blue Green Algae Remover'

But since I can find no real info on it im afraid that it's just Erytro in one form or another. 

But I have read a couple threads where people have reported that they tried Erythro to no avail and then used this product and it took care of the problem... I'm game for anything!


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## chad320 (Mar 7, 2010)

Have you tried Spot treating Excel? Cyanos or not, I have found that one treatment doesnt always work for all kinds of algaes and you need to hit it with both Excel and erythro. On seperate days.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Okay so after reading a couple of pm's from Sara here is what we are thinking and the reasons why. 

Most everyone who has a planted tank and has a decent understanding of the biological activity that is present in then knows that there is a fragile balance between a thriving Eden and a toxic wasteland. 

For some time now I have been thinking (after finding a yellow drop checker in the tank in the morning when I returned from work when the co2 had been shut off he night before at 8:30pm) that having water that was super saturated with co2 in the tank for that long couldn't be good for biological activity but since I never have had any bacteria blooms or green water I assumed all was fine. 

Then today, when discussing this last time Sara examined the samples of Cyano that I sent here, she told me that she noticed that there was an obvious lack of gram negative bacteria (Nirtosomonas or the bacteria that breakdown Ammonia into Nitrite and Nitrite to Nitrate) present in my tank. These bacteria are very resistant to Erythro so again, it was strange that there were hardly any in my system. Until today when she learned that I pump copious amounts of co2 into my tank, so much that even though I have my spray bar 1" under the surface of the water and pointed toward the surface, I often still have a yellow drop checker the next day even though the co2 had been off over 12 hours. I have always been a firm believer that if you had a lack of co2 in relation to your lighting you would have algae problem and this is completely true, but this was not algae I was dealing with. 

So today I decided to have my co2 cut off 2 hours earlier that I had been doing. Previously I started co2 injection at 2pm and the light turned on at 3pm then the co2 would cut off at 8:30pm and the light at 9pm. Now the co2 will be turning off at 6:30pm to hopefully give the co2 more time to dissipate before lights out. 

I really hope all of this makes sense because it could possibly be a major breakthrough in combating the sickly state my tank has been in due to this bacterial assault from Cyanobacteria.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

chad320 said:


> Have you tried Spot treating Excel? Cyanos or not, I have found that one treatment doesnt always work for all kinds of algaes and you need to hit it with both Excel and erythro. On seperate days.


I have spent more time than I care to admit with a cap of Excel in one hand and a syringe in the other. But read my above post and hopefully you will see where im gong here.


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

bsmith said:


> Okay so after reading a couple of pm's from Sara here is what we are thinking and the reasons why.
> 
> Most everyone who has a planted tank and has a decent understanding of the biological activity that is present in then knows that there is a fragile balance between a thriving Eden and a toxic wasteland.
> 
> ...


It makes sense to me but then a lot of things do at times, lol. I do think that more emphasis needs to be placed on maintaining a healthy biofilter. I know the consensus on TPT seems to be that it's not that important and that plants can basically take the place of a biofilter, but I think each have their own niche and the healthy function of each is important in maintaining a tank.


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## chad320 (Mar 7, 2010)

Would reducing your bubble count work just the same? And could you please explain what method you are using to maintain a nitrosomonas colony? I believe in its use but I also believe that with good flow it can be maintained inside the tank itself and not necessarily in the filter.


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## Elliot (Oct 3, 2010)

Your BGA problems aren't nearly as bad as mine were. The only thing you could see in my tank was BGA, litterly! Have you tried Marycn treatments? It worked wonders for me. Within the first week all of the BGA had turned a light fluffy green and was super easy to vacuum out. My tank looked like one of those AGA tanks after all of the algea got cleaned out and the plants replaced.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

You might want to try the old fashion way of bringing down the CO2 to safe levels and put in shrimps & snails in there to eat the algae.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Jeff5614 said:


> It makes sense to me but then a lot of things do at times, lol. I do think that more emphasis needs to be placed on maintaining a healthy biofilter. I know the consensus on TPT seems to be that it's not that important and that plants can basically take the place of a biofilter, but I think each have their own niche and the healthy function of each is important in maintaining a tank.


I think that the entire tanks bio filter has taken a beating from the levels of co2 I have been running. 

Bio filtration is a very confusing topic. There is info out there that leads one to believe that the more surface area you provide for the bacteria to colonize the more robust your bio filter. But the biological cleaners in our tank will only colonize to a level that will be equal to the amount of nitrogenous waste that's available to it. If that's the case what's the point of all the porous media in the filter?

Maybe a better question for a new thread but it does pertain to the subject. 



chad320 said:


> Would reducing your bubble count work just the same? And could you please explain what method you are using to maintain a nitrosomonas colony? I believe in its use but I also believe that with good flow it can be maintained inside the tank itself and not necessarily in the filter.


It's not the lack of bacteria in the filter that could be the problem it's the lack of bacteria in the whole tank. 

Yes I'm sure turning down the BC would lessen the level of co2 saturation the the tank and I'm sure reduce the amount of time after the lights go off where the saturation level is in the 'unbiofriendly zone'. That will be my next move if lessening the amount of time the co2 is on does not yield any positive results. 



Elliot said:


> Your BGA problems aren't nearly as bad as mine were. The only thing you could see in my tank was BGA, litterly! Have you tried Marycn treatments? It worked wonders for me. Within the first week all of the BGA had turned a light fluffy green and was super easy to vacuum out. My tank looked like one of those AGA tanks after all of the algea got cleaned out and the plants replaced.


I'm not trying to play 'my discus is bigger than yours' but I have been adamant on vacuuming the tank as I outlined previously and am 100% certain that if I left the Cyano unchecked for a week or so it would be a massive wreck and most if not all my plants would be hanging in the balance. 

I have not tried Maracyn but the active/only ingredient that I could find other than 'b complex vitamins' (which is nothing in reality just marketing color) is the same as the E.M.Erythro I have used. 



mistergreen said:


> You might want to try the old fashion way of bringing down the CO2 to safe levels and put in shrimps & snails in there to eat the algae.



I know of no animals that could be introduced to the tank that would eat Cyanobacteria/BGA.


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

I've been reading that it might be light and mostly the light from the yellow end of the spectrum and high light IMO can also make a contribution. I have it also and it started in Riccia I had floating on the surface (so I trashed it), then I had mosses on DW that was place close to the surface and it's on other things close to the surface but the lower reaches of the tank are less problematic. I've read that it is a bacteria but if you treat it with the Maracyn you will lose all your established good bacteria as well, also from my reading light in the 6,700 to 8K range is best to get rid of it or even higher to the blue end of the scale at 10K, and this would help explain why Amano likes 8K so much.

I'm subscribed and desperately want to see what happens but with 83 fish in my tank I can't afford to kill off my bacteria so I'm going to add some more lighting at 6,700 and clean by hand the best I can, I started today by pruning to get more circulation but I can see that's not going to help because your tank is planted very lightly, so do try adding more plants.

the bulb you are using is right in the yellow part of the spectrum that you want to avoid, I would try to get something at the higher end of the scale. If you think about it and add reef tanks to the mix it makes more sense. Reef tanks need light up to 20k because they are deep under water and up in the deep blue end of the scale, moon light is 12k, a heavily overcast day is 10k, and a sunny day at noon is 5k to 6.5k so aquatic plants will never see light in the sunny day range so 8k to 10k would seem to be more like it for plants in clear shallow water.

I just came across this;

As a Plant Dip for algae

Hydrogen Peroxide can be used as a plant dip or bath for algae such as BBA (Black Beard algae) or Cyanobacteria. Some will add this directly to the tank as well at a rate of 2 oz. of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide per 10 gallons. HOWEVER this is best done without shrimp (such as Cherry Shrimp) present, as this will kill them.
As well the use of a syringe of dropper with un-diluted 3% household HP can be used to directly apply to BBA or Cyanobacteria (the same cautions should be exercised with shrimp present)

More to read - Cyano and light spectrum? It's too bad we don't have reef tanks because the have all kinds of treatments.

I just keep piling it on, but this is a good article about light and some of it starts to make sense concering the Kelvin scale & water depth, read the section about Nanometers Range here but it's a little less than 1/4 of the way down the page.


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

I know of no animals that could be introduced to the tank that would eat Cyanobacteria/BGA.

Not the sheet kind. Seems like there's some toxin in this species but other kinds are quite nutritious like spirulina.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

EH ate you dealing with Cyano that looks more like mine or the blue/green sheet type? 

I think that there are many different types of cyano that can take over our tanks. 

As far as changing my bulb since it could stimulate the Cyano I think that may be something I try if all else fails but seems pretty severe to me.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

dsmith - Maracyn is eythromycin. What are you using for it then?


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

E.M.Erythromycin from API is what I used for previous treatments.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

m00se said:


> dsmith - Maracyn is eythromycin. What are you using for it then?


Perhaps you were confused by my response to the member that suggested the Maracyn. 

I was just saying that from what I could find on Maracyn it seemed to be the same as API's E.I.Erythromycin other than the b vitamins that are really not going to do much. That's all. 

But still, I have hope about allowing the good bacteria in the tank to establish itself properly by reducing the co2 amounts and maybe attacking and killing the Cyano.


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

My tanks are going nuts all of the sudden with BBA that ranges from blue to bright red and brown, a brown string type that's slimey when removed, and sheets of blue pearling goo that cover sections of Fissidens spotted here and there that stinks when removed, and some hair that sand paper wouldn't remove all in one tank.

I had a hose barb on my C02 regulator break so I was without C02 for a week and I have a new piece of Manzanita in the tank but no other changes, the attack started about a week after I got the C02 back up and running. I did have a big Crypt melt after the C02 was restored so I've been doing my dosing and weekly WC with a light vacuum of the melted plant debris which is heavy, I also have trimmed the tank hard to get good flow.

I'm thinking about starting Excel and this will be OK at first and may even perk up some plants but it always leads to damage with my Crypts, but I don't know what to do and it's going to get worse if I do nothing for much longer.


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

Are your CO2/O2 levels back in line after cutting off the CO2 earlier?


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

Yes they should be good if you were refering to my post. Here are some scary photos.

You can even see hair on the edges of the plant leaves.









Here in the center you can see the blue green sheet on top of the Fissidens and to the right hairs every where.









For the most part B my photos would look exactly like yours or vise vera but mine is a little more advanced at the moment. There is algae on every surface and they all seem different.


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

This is what I've found and plan to start my attack tomorrow on WC day.


Antibiotics are effective but can start a cycle by killing off your nitrifying bacteria so this treatment is out for large aquariums or aquariums with a high bio load.

Blackouts are not effective and often followed by a repeat outbreak of Cyanobacteria

A light spectrum of 6,400 or better on the Kelvin scale is helpful in fighting this bacteria

Electrolytes from Wonder Shells or trace elements from a gH booster are effective in treatment, it has to do with Redox balance which is no an issue with tanks that use tap water with frequent water changes.

UV sterilizers are effective for the obvious reason that it kills bacteria

Nutrients in the water column should be kept low and feed sparingly as dirty low flow tanks can easily have outbreaks.

Hydrogen Peroxide as used in household application at 3% can be used directly on the bacteria by turning off all filters and applying directly with a pipette for 30 minutes, but still does not address the cause.

Increase circulation can help, in tends to thrive in low oxygen, high nutrient water.

Lower the temperature on your heater to below 76 degrees 

Clean your filters to remove decaying organics being careful not to disturb the bio filter.

Lightly vacuum your substrate if needed to remove decaying organics.

Most of this stuff is kinda obvious but there are a few things that may help or combined may do the trick.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

150EH,

You have multiple alga growing in your tank. The BGA will respond to Maracyn nicely, so that's where I would start. Dose per package. The BBA is a little more difficult because the effective dosage for HP (hydrogen peroxide) to kill it is also high enough to kill snails and inverts. My solution was to take all my plants out of my tank and spritz them with full strength HP, then dunk them in dechlorinated buckets of new water. While it was extreme, it worked. My vals melted (but came back), my wisteria was brittle (but came back), and all I had left of an amazon sword was the root ball. I planted it with some gel caps of Osmocote Plus nearby and in 3 weeks that thing was 15" tall and fluorescent green! Those are really the only negatives I had. I just took the sprayer top off a generic water bottle and twisted it onto the peroxide bottle and went at it. Half strength might have been plenty strong enough to get the job done but once I decided to take apart my whole tank I wasn't ready to experiment. If necessary I would do it that way again.

Now if I could figure out how to save my tank from crashing due to the 10 sick rasboras I put in there last week, I would be a happy man. Sigh.

Good luck man. I know it's frustrating but there *is* the other side.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

So it have been a week since I have sucked all the Cyano from the tank and it looks to me that it has not advanced/accumulated as much as it had in the past over the time of one week. 

All of my plants look great, I mean super healthy (except for an Erio Japan that I decided to cut all the leaves in half due to algae that couldn't be removed, bad idea. It's not bouncing back as I planned...) all of my reds are coming back, the new growth of a plant I have been having issues with (Rotala Sunset) are all growing nice and as they should too. 

I see this as a step in the right direction as less of the Cyano than prior indicates simply that it's not reproducing as fast and healthy plants are always a good sign of proper conditions. 

I'm going to vacuum the crud today and do a large WC. Ill post pics in a while of the before/after.


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## Alyssa (Sep 16, 2011)

I did double the dose of Erythromycin for like 10 days. Didn't dent mine at all. I sort of wonder if an osmocote pebble got too close to the surface and started feeding this thing, because it started right near a root tab that broke apart in that area.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

Alyssa said:


> I did double the dose of Erythromycin for like 10 days. Didn't dent mine at all. I sort of wonder if an osmocote pebble got too close to the surface and started feeding this thing, because it started right near a root tab that broke apart in that area.



Then it's not BGA, unless you got an expired batch of Maracyn or it got spoiled somehow.


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## Alyssa (Sep 16, 2011)

Everyone else seems to think it is totally BGA by the pictures ... and after researching it - I tend to agree. Still the treatment didn't do squat. Now it's going to be resistant no matter what, I'd imagine.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

Yea that's just plain weird - forgive me for not remembering what yours looked like, but I can't imagine ER not wiping it right out.


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