# new 50 gallon substrate and other ?'s



## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

Wondering what the best low tech substrate is i have a bucket of black planted tank substrate i bought at big als a while ago (not sure of brand name) that was part of a failed 8 gallon biocube experiment (just didnt care for the tank at all really).

I should mention what I am looking for is once a week water changes using my python gravel cleaner and trimming once in a while i really want a tank with little to no maintenance I have been keeping reefs and fish only salt tanks for a long time and miss the simplicity of freshwater but want something on the nicer end of the spectrum. So I am going to tear down my 125 and drop back to a 50 gallon planted

So help me get started guys cost isnt as much of an issue as ease is for me so i want whatever is going to make my plants grow the best but also be easy to maintain

OH should also mention i love DIY so if theres some miracle mud that i can make at home let me know

heres a quick idea for filter and lighting btw

eheim pro3 not sure what size i should be looking at or is there something better suited for the same money
lighting i am thinking 2x39 t5ho but not sure whate temps i should be looking at been dealing with reefs way to long
and not sure what else i need to look at jsut yet


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Mineralized soil is about the closest to miracle mud, and is a DIY project. 
You can add a small amount of slow release fertilizer (osmocote or similar) at the bottom of the tank for a little longer before you might have to add ferts.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

I have seen a few posts about mineralized soil is there a how to thread u could point me too

also adding ferts is one of the things i either want to make simple or not do at all I dont mind keeping it to very simple plants to avoid daily maintenance once a week or so i can handle

also i keep reading about guys not doing water changes on planted tanks i know how to do this succesfully in saltwater what is the key to getting a balanced planted setup with minimal to no water changes ?


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## Tuiflies (Jan 14, 2010)

If you have the 2x39 T5HO fixture you'll be in the high light range which pretty much means ferts and CO2.

The tanks that most people get away without doing frequent WC's are usually low tech Walstad style tanks with soil under gravel, lots of fast growing plants (atleast initially) and a relatively low bio-load.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

You don't have to set up a Walstad-type NPT tank to not have to do frequent water changes, I only do water changes monthly at most on my smaller low tech tanks, and once every 2-3 months on my larger tanks.

The key is how much light you put over the tank; you need enough to support the plants, but not so much that they need more nutrients than they can obtain from your bioload. 

For a 50gal low tech tank, I'd recommend a dual T5NO fixture like the Coralife, or 3x T8 bulbs.

The Mineralized Soil how-to is in a sticky at the top of the substrate forum.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

I can always drop to normal output t5's I dont mind saving a few bucks when i can that or the new marineland led setups I would posts a link but not allowed to yet

again coming from reefs 2x39 would barely cut it on a 50 gallon tank

thanks for all the help


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Most of the LED fixtures I've seen that are capable of actually supporting plant growth are well over $1,000... I'd go with T5NO, especially if you're handy with the DIY.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

really confused over the whole lighting thing will 2 bulbs give me enough spread to cover the 18 inch wide tank

if i go t5NO should i be getting 2x21 will give me 0.84wpg 4x21watt for a wpg rating of 1.6 or should i go t5ho 2x39 that will give me 1.56 wpg 

thanks in advance for your opinions


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

2x T5HO bulbs will put you over the top into high light- you'll need a pressurized CO2 setup and a good fert regimen to keep up with it.

2x T5NO will be sufficient for most low light plants, or if you've got a canopy and you're retrofitting the bulbs into it, you could add a 3rd bulb and run that also for a short "burst" each day in addition to the other bulbs and should be able to grow just about any low light plant.

I'm running 2x18 T5NO over this 46gal. Plants are all doing well, though the carpet in the front is taking a long time to fill in (the reason I'm suggeting the 3rd bulb if you can swing it)


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## londonloco (Aug 25, 2005)

You can keep the T5HO fixture if you raise the light 9" or so over the tank. I have a 29g with 3x24W over a 29 gallon, suspended from the ceiling. It's been running for 6 months now using 2 lights for 9 hours a day, the third light on for 2 hours as a midday burst. I dose excel daily recommended amounts. I have anubius, crypts, pennywort, along w/some gloss growing slowly in the tank. No algae problems as of yet. (if I just jinxed myself and see algae in the tank tomorrow, I'll kick myself!).


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## Shavemacman (Jun 21, 2008)

I have a 50 gallon as well. I went with a 2x39W T5 HO setup (w/ Icecap 660 ballast) and it was too much light for low tech. I think it might even be too much light for high tech... I continue to have algae issues even after adding CO2.

So I am interested in what you end up deciding. What T5 NO Ballast would you go for? I can't seem to find any "aquarium" T5 NO ballasts. 
I am going to ditch my CO2 and lighting and go back to low tech.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

asked the decorator (wife) she says must have a canopy so what i am thinking is maybe jsut go with a single plant strip the type u see at canadian tires and walmart and add it as a 3rd light for the front i have been into reefs for a very long time so i do like a more white/blue look so i will likely swap the bulb out for a 10k at the front bulb to give me a whiter look assuming thats okay for the plants


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

Shavemacman said:


> I have a 50 gallon as well. I went with a 2x39W T5 HO setup (w/ Icecap 660 ballast) and it was too much light for low tech. I think it might even be too much light for high tech... I continue to have algae issues even after adding CO2.
> 
> So I am interested in what you end up deciding. What T5 NO Ballast would you go for? I can't seem to find any "aquarium" T5 NO ballasts.
> I am going to ditch my CO2 and lighting and go back to low tech.


I am likely jsut going to buy the coralife 2x21 36 inch unit for the NO bulbs but if u are looking for ballasts fulham workhorse ballasts have always been one of my faves very versatile and well priced, a quick check on there website if i was going strictly DIY the workhorse 6 will drive 3 21 watt T5NO bulbs

http://www.fulham.com/Detail_Ballasts.php?ID=WH6-120-L


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

00nothing said:


> i will likely swap the bulb out for a 10k at the front bulb to give me a whiter look assuming thats okay for the plants


I really like 10k bulbs, and I like them best in combo with a pink bulb and usually also one at the lower end of the spectrum, around 6500k. To me, this "rounds out" all the colors in a tank very nicely.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> I really like 10k bulbs, and I like them best in combo with a pink bulb and usually also one at the lower end of the spectrum, around 6500k. To me, this "rounds out" all the colors in a tank very nicely.


Thats exactly what i wanted to hear what does the pink color temp do for the plants does it cause color to pop along the same lines as an actinic in reef setups or is a growth bulb ?

After thinking for a few mins i may jsut end up going with a DIY setup using the fulham ballasts they are like 30 bux each endcaps will run me $10 per pair and then i will be able to ensure even spacign and full tank coverage from 3 bulbs


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Both, though it depends somewhat on the actual bulb, but most of them do have "peaks" in the red part of the spectrum so are good for plant growth.


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## Shavemacman (Jun 21, 2008)

Thanks for the ballast recommendation.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

SO if I go with the 3 21watt t5 bulbs I am looking at 1.26 wpg is this right in the realm of lowtech still where i wont be needing to dose ferts all the time ?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

If you're DIYing this setup, put the rows on individual switches so you can experiment and "dial in" the perfect photoperiod for your tank.

I doubt you'll end up running all 3 bulbs for a full 8 hours, and I suspect you'll end up running 2 bulbs most of the time and the 3rd bulb for just a short "burst" to help along any stems you add.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

lauraleellbp said:


> If you're DIYing this setup, put the rows on individual switches so you can experiment and "dial in" the perfect photoperiod for your tank.
> 
> I doubt you'll end up running all 3 bulbs for a full 8 hours, and I suspect you'll end up running 2 bulbs most of the time and the 3rd bulb for just a short "burst" to help along any stems you add.


First thanks for all your help laurelee u have been great

Have never thought about or seen secondary switches on a flourescent setup is this possible ? I am guessing I would need to have a master switch to initiate the ballasts and secondary switches to break connection to the bulbs ? Also with 3 bulbs being the 10k a regular daylight and then one pink which 2 would you reccomend to run all the time ?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

You're quite welcome, and hopefully someone else can chime in with ideas on electrical wiring, I personally stay away from that stuff LOL

Which bulbs you run when is really a matter of personal aesthetics- run the ones YOU like best. :icon_cool


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

Shot an email out to fulham to ask there opinion on the secondary switches I cant see why it wouldnt work but figure I better ask first hate to fry the ballasts


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## Shavemacman (Jun 21, 2008)

I would do it the straight forward way and buy 2 ballasts.


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## Kamivy (Jan 3, 2010)

Shavemacman said:


> I would do it the straight forward way and buy 2 ballasts.


+1 My hubby is an electrician and he tried separate switches on the one ballast on my diy twin tube light, and it burnt out within a few hours. He redid it with separate ballasts, and it works a treat.roud:


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## Shavemacman (Jun 21, 2008)

Would you mount the ballast in the hood/canopy or under the stand? My current setup is with the ballast under the stand but I don't think these Fulham's have enough wire length to reach my bulbs.


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

Shavemacman said:


> Would you mount the ballast in the hood/canopy or under the stand? My current setup is with the ballast under the stand but I don't think these Fulham's have enough wire length to reach my bulbs.


extending wire is an easy enough tasks and tbh i prefer to to convert to a softer wire than what is included with the ballasts makes it a lot easier when hooking it up to the end caps

i have done both under/on canopy and under stand and tbh as clean as understand looks for maintenance reasons i prefer to run on the back side of my canopies


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## 00nothing (Apr 1, 2010)

Found a nice cheap easy solution to my lighting woes these are cdn prices so nobody harp on me about the pricing lol 2xt5 no shoplight 39.95 1xt5no shoplight 27.95 I can either run them as is in a canopy or remove them build my own fixture and go to waterproof endcaps


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

So you decided yet? :biggrin:


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