# Ramp Timer Pro works on Beamswork LED fixtures!



## bhazard451

Just got one in (Sunsetter on ebay) and it works 100%.

The Current/Ecoxotic/Sunsetter timers work great on my Beamswork 30" .5W led 55W light which was $45. This is much more powerful than the Freshwater Led+ and E-Series, and much less expensive.

I'll post vids of the thunderstorms/cloud cover later.

You can also use the second channel on the timer to use a RGB strip for red sunset, blue moonlights, etc.

This would be the most cost effective package for high power freshwater led lighting by far.


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## jeffkrol

bhazard451 said:


> Just got one in (Sunsetter on ebay) and it works 100%.
> 
> The Current/Ecoxotic/Sunsetter timers work great on my Beamswork 30" .5W led 55W light which was $45. This is much more powerful than the Freshwater Led+ and E-Series, and much less expensive.
> 
> I'll post vids of the thunderstorms/cloud cover later.
> 
> You can also use the second channel on the timer to use a RGB strip for red sunset, blue moonlights, etc.
> 
> This would be the most cost effective package for high power freshwater led lighting by far.


Good job!!!!


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## talontsiawd

I always wondered this, they advertized it to work with 12-24V fixtures, I believe the Beamswork I have is 24V and has a very similar plug. Good to know, I was thinking of trying it myself but it's more than I paid for my light. However, I never thought about the effects, that could be fun. I never see it come on or off so the actually ramp up is less important to me but other features would be fun. Plus, it makes me more willing to buy another Beamswork fixture in the future as well. Good find.


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## bhazard451

talontsiawd said:


> I always wondered this, they advertized it to work with 12-24V fixtures, I believe the Beamswork I have is 24V and has a very similar plug. Good to know, I was thinking of trying it myself but it's more than I paid for my light. However, I never thought about the effects, that could be fun. I never see it come on or off so the actually ramp up is less important to me but other features would be fun. Plus, it makes me more willing to buy another Beamswork fixture in the future as well. Good find.


The "Sunsetter controller" on ebay works the same and is cheaper. It's very similar to the Current Ramp Pro. It can be had for $50, or ~$30 as part of a bundle with one of the sellers led fixtures.


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## talontsiawd

bhazard451 said:


> The "Sunsetter controller" on ebay works the same and is cheaper. It's very similar to the Current Ramp Pro. It can be had for $50, or ~$30 as part of a bundle with one of the sellers led fixtures.


Good to know. Thanks for the advice and the testing of it.


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## jeffkrol

bhazard451 said:


> The "Sunsetter controller" on ebay works the same and is cheaper. It's very similar to the Current Ramp Pro. It can be had for $50, or ~$30 as part of a bundle with one of the sellers led fixtures.


it would be more exciting "if" they made a freshwater bar...


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## bhazard451

Cloud cover (1 channel, hard to see, watch the wall)
http://youtu.be/FYD7s0oDfIU

Thunderstorm (1 channel)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ok0B_k1SZ2Q

Bump:


jeffkrol said:


> it would be more exciting "if" they made a freshwater bar...


They do sell a high wattage "reef bar", but you could DIY solder your own freshwater 3W epistar leds in very quickly if you know how to solder. The leds are like $1 each.

I listed their supplier as VTKledlight before:
http://www.vtkledlight.com/led-aquarium-light_c32.html
http://www.vtkledlight.com/dc-12v-2...d-strip-lights-and-other-rgb-light-p-525.html


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## jeffkrol

bhazard451 said:


> Cloud cover (hard to see, watch the wall)
> 
> http://youtu.be/FYD7s0oDfIU


didn't want to scare the heck out of your fish w/ lightning???

Bump:


bhazard451 said:


> Cloud cover (hard to see, watch the wall)
> 
> http://youtu.be/FYD7s0oDfIU
> 
> Bump:
> 
> They do sell a high wattage "reef bar", but you could DIY solder your own freshwater 3W epistar leds in very quickly if you know how to solder. The leds are like $1 each.
> 
> I listed their supplier as VTKledlight before:
> http://www.vtkledlight.com/led-aquarium-light_c32.html
> http://www.vtkledlight.com/dc-12v-2...d-strip-lights-and-other-rgb-light-p-525.html


I could.. Hard to convince others that "hey take your NEW $150 light apart"...............:hihi::hihi:
I did notice the terminator SMD resistors were pretty close to the LED's..And "we" don't know if they thermal epoxied or reflowed the "bases" down.. though that is not a deal breaker to others either..


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## bhazard451

jeffkrol said:


> didn't want to scare the heck out of your fish w/ lightning???
> 
> Bump:
> 
> I could.. Hard to convince others that "hey take your NEW $150 light apart"...............:hihi::hihi:
> I did notice the terminator SMD resistors were pretty close to the LED's..


Check the VTK page. The bar for my tank would be $36 + DHL $25 shipping.

The default layout would be awful, but a few more 6500Ks, a red, and a blue/purple or two could look pretty sweet.

For a no fuss easy 2 channel install, the Beamswork and an rgb strip would work great.

EDITED: With Lightning.


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## jeffkrol

bhazard451 said:


> Check the VTK page. The bar for my tank would be $36 + DHL $25 shipping.
> 
> The default layout would be awful, but a few more 6500Ks, a red, and a blue/purple or two could look pretty sweet.
> 
> For a no fuss easy 2 channel install, the Beamswork and an rgb strip would work great.
> 
> EDITED: With Lightning.


Actually swapping the red and green is a real good start.. 

Well 2 reds, rest ww, dump the green








add 2 cyans.. dump the blue for 7000k white.. done









WHAT data do "these people" use ?????.. Yes I can understand it for saltwater.. though it is still a bit "weak". (green and red have p-poor coverage)


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## TekWarren

Awesome! I've been a fan of beamswork for a while now and have owned 4 fixtures. I will actually be consolidating down to one 125 this fall and plan to reuse 2 36" and 1 30" fixture on that. I like the idea of the ramp up and down. Would save me from having to flick all the fixtures down to low light mode every night. The storm mode I'm not to thrilled about but still neat. 

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk


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## bhazard451

I like that idea. Let's go over it again.

Depending on the size the numbers would change, but:

Channel 1: All warm whites and 2 reds (or 4, 6, etc for bigger strips)
Channel 2: 6500-7000K whites, 2 cyans (for color rendering), no blue or purple though?


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## jeffkrol

bhazard451 said:


> I like that idea. Let's go over it again.
> 
> Depending on the size the numbers would change, but:
> 
> Channel 1: All warm whites and 2 reds (or 4, 6, etc for bigger strips)
> Channel 2: 6500-7000K whites, 2 cyans (for color rendering), no blue or purple though?


Well they are optional.. "cool whites" are high blue.. Purple is fine.. Gus would love them..
IF using larger bars sure.. If you want room.. both are colors (blue in particular though I do add RB to my fixtures) that are more disposable than the others (in my opinion..). The only problem I foresee is "if" they are CV (which is likely) setup the SMD may not drop enough voltage if you don't "match".. Purples and reds are notoriously low v(f).. Checking the SMD resistor in the board would be prudent.. 

On that note.. adding a substitute for the purple may drop the output if, conversely, the sub has a larger v(f).. or it might not light all together.. hmmm.. things to ponder..


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## lamiskool

awesome! thanks for testing this out! Gunna save me a ton of money if I set up more tanks lol


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## bhazard451

jeffkrol said:


> Well they are optional.. "cool whites" are high blue.. Purple is fine.. Gus would love them..
> IF using larger bars sure.. If you want room.. both are colors (blue in particular though I do add RB to my fixtures) that are more disposable than the others (in my opinion..). The only problem I foresee is "if" they are CV (which is likely) setup the SMD may not drop enough voltage if you don't "match".. Purples and reds are notoriously low v(f).. Checking the SMD resistor in the board would be prudent..
> 
> On that note.. adding a substitute for the purple may drop the output if, conversely, the sub has a larger v(f).. or it might not light all together.. hmmm.. things to ponder..


3W led chips, not SMD, but yes there has to be some resistor work in there.


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## jeffkrol

bhazard451 said:


> 3W led chips, not SMD, but yes there has to be some resistor work in there.


Normally there are 3 diodes and a resistor for the 5630 SMD LED's (a smd resistor)
(3x say of 3V=9 feeding it 12V you need to limit current by dropping voltage w/ a resistor)

The 3w "should" be run the same way.. but I see too many resistors.. and if separate colors need different voltages, the design gets a bit more complicated.
Running a 3W 660nm red w/ a V(f) of 2 volts in a short string of higher V(f) colors, I assume can be problematic.. The red will receive too much current..if you spread 9V over 3 LED's.. 

This isn't an issue w/ Constant current drivers since it will limit the "set" to whatever voltage produces whatever mA it is "set" to..

.5w and under smd led's don't really have this "problem" since they are pretty much the same..V(f) wise..

just something to ponder w/ the bigger ones..


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## bhazard451

Normally Violets require the most vf, running near 3.8 at full blast. Reds usually around 2.0, Cyans around 3.0, Blues and Whites ~3.5 in these epistar type chips


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## Dmarksvr

bhazard451 said:


> You can also use the second channel on the timer to use a RGB strip for red sunset, blue moonlights, etc.
> 
> This would be the most cost effective package for high power freshwater led lighting by far.


What kind of RGB strip are you taling about. I havea 6803 dream color strip and then one of the generic rolls of rgb leds that come with the 24-44key controller. Both have 4 pin connectors, but the sunsetter had a barrel shaped connector. Is there an adapter? If so I can't find one:eek5:


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## talontsiawd

Dmarksvr said:


> What kind of RGB strip are you taling about. I havea 6803 dream color strip and then one of the generic rolls of rgb leds that come with the 24-44key controller. Both have 4 pin connectors, but the sunsetter had a barrel shaped connector. Is there an adapter? If so I can't find one:eek5:


I want to know too. That would be a game changer for my little $30 light. Have ample room to add 2-3 strips of RGB LED's but mine are 4 pin as well.


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## jeffkrol

talontsiawd said:


> I want to know too. That would be a game changer for my little $30 light. Have ample room to add 2-3 strips of RGB LED's but mine are 4 pin as well.


Basic structure:









but , if you are referring to the 5050smd "chips" each one has 3 diodes in it.. unlike the above.

The controller he is referring to only has 2 channels.. So you are limited to either one of the colors.. or ganging 2 or all three.. but they would all do the same thing.. 

Cutting the plugs and direct attachment to the controller is probably the easiest.. 

There are other considerations if you are using the Beamswork power supply.. (if greater than 12V)..


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## gus6464

You know you want some purple...


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## jeffkrol

Broad spread between 437... 
http://www.plantphysiol.org/content/46/1/1.full.pdf












> The identification of the active pigments in the blue-green region is more difficult because of the overlapping of the chloro-phyll and carotenoid bands. Nevertheless, the peak at 437 nm
> agrees with the Chl a absorption band reported to occur in different plants between 435 and 438 nm(8). The broad nature
> of this peak probably indicates the participation of carotenoids and Chl b. There is suggestion of an absorption band at about 412nm as evidenced by the sustained level of photosynthesis
> to 412nm and the sudden drop at 400nm. It may correspond to the minor blue band of Chl a found between 416 and 418
> nm in various plants



Certainly wouldn't want anything below 412nm.. 



> B - Blue 475 460.0 - 492.5
> I - Indigo 445 422.5 - 460.0
> V - Violet 400 380.0 - 422.5


I'll have to add some Indigo LED's...


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## Dmarksvr

Dmarksvr said:


> What kind of RGB strip are you taling about. I havea 6803 dream color strip and then one of the generic rolls of rgb leds that come with the 24-44key controller. Both have 4 pin connectors, but the sunsetter had a barrel shaped connector. Is there an adapter? If so I can't find one:eek5:


Well I got it hooked up to the 6803 IC dream color strip and 133mode controller, on one channel of the sunsetter and the other channel to a 44 key cheapo led strip, like this...










I had 2 of these but something seems to be wrong with one of mine as it only lights the cheapo strip up amber or green, but the other one does white.

using that white IR/DC box you can connect the sunsetter to the strip, and it works ok for lightning... I had partial control over the 133mode IC dream color controller when I'd put the sunsetter into certain dynamic modes, at first the IC's controller worked but then stopped and I had to punch em in manually.

You're probably better off hooking the sunsetter to 2 single color led strips like these...









Or just going with a compatible fixture like the beamworks?

As far as I could tell the sunrise/sunset/moonlight feature was not working with my wacky experimental rig.

Oh and some settings sent my cheapo rgb strip into disco mode, so ya that isn't going to be something people want most of the time. 

I guess I'll buy a compatible light and see if I can get this thing working properly and use it for the Sunrise/sunset effect, then use my IC dream color 133 mode strip to provide a dynamic cloud cover effect that seems to travel across the viv not just fade in/out like other cloud cover FX in other lights, then use an LED music controller with a cheapo rgb strip to activate lightning when sound is played :wink:

Can someone point me in the direction of an 18" beamworks fixture with around 6500k that will work with the sunsetter? If it has a 2nd channel compatible with the moonlight feature of the sunsetter that would be awesome


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## lamiskool

if anyone finds a way to get the ramp timer to work with the cheap rgb led strips where your able to create a sunrise/sunset/moonlight effect please pm me (or post on the thread)! I run multiple tanks and was thinking of doing this plus a splitter so it can go to as many tanks as possible.


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## jeffkrol

lamiskool said:


> if anyone finds a way to get the ramp timer to work with the cheap rgb led strips where your able to create a sunrise/sunset/moonlight effect please pm me (or post on the thread)! I run multiple tanks and was thinking of doing this plus a splitter so it can go to as many tanks as possible.


this should work:
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-12v-led-light-timer-control_1720399506.html


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## JasterMake

jeffkrol said:


> this should work:
> http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-12v-led-light-timer-control_1720399506.html


Have you found one similar to this which is wifi controlled via an app? I hope to see one soon if one is not already on the market.


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## jeffkrol

JasterMake said:


> Have you found one similar to this which is wifi controlled via an app? I hope to see one soon if one is not already on the market.


Alibababa has dozens of controllers..

http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/RGB-CCT-DIM-LED-controller-4_502149930.html
Not exactly sure what they mean by this:


> RGB/ CCT/DIM LED controller, 4 zones wireless RF RGBW controller *with WIFI function*, 434mhz/868mhz


This is a bit clearer:


> We can use an Android system or IOS system mobile phone to install control software, then it can control LED, this is the wishes of every customer.


http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/New-design-WiFi-LED-controller-RGB_221381201.html


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## Dmarksvr

Do any of the beamsworks have 2 plugs, one for each channel???... Or was the OP just using one channel? ...I was somewhat uclear on that point. If there are 2 plug/channel beamsworks and someone could link to them so I know I'm looking at the right model line... that would be awesome


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## jeffkrol

Dmarksvr said:


> Do any of the beamsworks have 2 plugs, one for each channel???... Or was the OP just using one channel? ...I was somewhat uclear on that point. If there are 2 plug/channel beamsworks and someone could link to them so I know I'm looking at the right model line... that would be awesome


Beamswork was on one channels AFAICT.. 
Additional strips on additional channels..
Thunderstorms, lightning, cloud cover (global dim and bright) would work because this is just global "flash" effects.. 

you'd have to add like a red strip (amber or figure out the RGB config) for sunsets sunrise


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## Dmarksvr

M


jeffkrol said:


> Beamswork was on one channels AFAICT..
> Additional strips on additional channels..
> Thunderstorms, lightning, cloud cover (global dim and bright) would work because this is just global "flash" effects..
> 
> you'd have to add like a red strip (amber or figure out the RGB config) for sunsets sunrise


Aw OK thanks.

About the sunrise/sunset though you're just talking about color right? ...because the sunsetter /ramp timer pro will still dim the channels for the basic effect. I think I took your meaning right just wanted to be sure.


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## jeffkrol

Dmarksvr said:


> M
> 
> Aw OK thanks.
> 
> About the sunrise/sunset though you're just talking about color right? ...because the sunsetter /ramp timer pro will still dim the channels for the basic effect. I think I took your meaning right just wanted to be sure.


Yes I consider "sunrise" more than just a ramp up of white..
I suppose I'm being a bit picky here...


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## bhazard451

I have the Beamswork on one channel, and an RGB strip on the other. I use a 12v 10amp power supply.

If you want color control on the RGB strip, those controllers it comes with needs to be attached to the strip, but it won't dim right via the Sunsetter. It will shut off from not getting enough power after dimming past a certain amount.

Normally since I just keep it at one setting most of the day, and that the Beamswork is the main light, it is a non issue.

Very powerful, affordable setup that can scale well.


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## Dmarksvr

bhazard451 said:


> I have the Beamswork on one channel, and an RGB strip on the other. I use a 12v 10amp power supply.
> 
> If you want color control on the RGB strip, those controllers it comes with needs to be attached to the strip, but it won't dim right via the Sunsetter. It will shut off from not getting enough power after dimming past a certain amount.
> 
> Normally since I just keep it at one setting most of the day, and that the Beamswork is the main light, it is a non issue.
> 
> Very powerful, affordable setup that can scale well.


Have you seen the tc420 led strip controller? ...Cheap, 5 channels and software that let's you setup custom schedual... Wouldn't suprise me if it worked with beamswork and other fixtures if you wired the right connectors to it.










I ordered one, but somehow have lost it


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## bhazard451

Dmarksvr said:


> Have you seen the tc420 led strip controller? ...Cheap, 5 channels and software that let's you setup custom schedual... Wouldn't suprise me if it worked with beamswork and other fixtures if you wired the right connectors to it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered one, but somehow have lost it


I actually have it. It's a massive pain in the ass to program, and nowhere near as intuitive as having a remote. No dynamic modes either.


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## Dmarksvr

bhazard451 said:


> I actually have it. It's a massive pain in the ass to program, and nowhere near as intuitive as having a remote. No dynamic modes either.


Aw that's a bummer to hear... I thought about getting a 2nd, but maybe I'll hold off, till in find the first and actually play with it


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## Dmarksvr

Someone needs to get the IR codes for the sunsetter and current ramp timers (and maybe the new fluvial ramp timers, and the cheap 24 or 44key rgb strips), so we can get this thing working with just abiut anything...
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=783426


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## JasterMake

bhazard451 said:


> I actually have it. It's a massive pain in the ass to program, and nowhere near as intuitive as having a remote. No dynamic modes either.


Yeah it is a bit flakey and confusing at first, But once I programmed it, i have not had any trouble. I made a couple of static modes and and 4 different timed days with sunrise, sunset, heavy cloud cover, etc,...

When I run out of CO2 or need a few days of low light I just change mode and sunrise and sunsets are in low light mode.

I even got fancy and added moonrise and moonset.


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## Dmarksvr

JasterMake said:


> Yeah it is a bit flakey and confusing at first, But once I programmed it, i have not had any trouble. I made a couple of static modes and and 4 different timed days with sunrise, sunset, heavy cloud cover, etc,...
> 
> When I run out of CO2 or need a few days of low light I just change mode and sunrise and sunsets are in low light mode.
> 
> I even got fancy and added moonrise and moonset.



Do these have an SD card or any way to allow you to upload the saved programs for others to use? I'd assume there is at least a file saved to the hard drive. It would be really cool for people to share them, so the confused can plug n play or have a completed program as an example to work off of or modify


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## jeffkrol

Dmarksvr said:


> Do these have an SD card or any way to allow you to upload the saved programs for others to use? I'd assume there is at least a file saved to the hard drive. It would be really cool for people to share them, so the confused can plug n play or have a completed program as an example to work off of or modify


I may have been dreaming but "somewhere" I remember that it is just some type of MS "data file" that gets exported to the controller via the software..via USB


> It is USB signal joint entrance, when epistatic machine model after editing, can through the USB
> line to download to the controller


 

I can't recall the file(dot) extension name though.. 
So a fairly good chance that finding that file.. copy to meme stick.. and upload "should" work... Since it seems to be a one shot deal.. there can only be one working file. you would have to rename each time if you saved multiple files..

As I said.. just a guess from some old info I choose not to keep so to speak..

sorry I don't recall the file type but do remember researching it a bit. 

not real helpful I know.. but since "I" didn't list it someone else knows..


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## Dmarksvr

Well I finally got a new PC, so if I ever get around to setting it up, and get my tc420 working I'll find a file hosting site link to here. Sounds like a pain to program though so was hoping someone else with one working could post theirs for me to modify or use. 

Thx for the info... If the unit's software creates a directory on the PC, shouldn't need a flash drive right? Just upload it from PC to file hosting site then link to it for everyone to use. Be cool I think to get a.collection of different scheduals for people to try

I do vivariums more then aquariums, but I like the back lit backgrounds some are doing, and was thinking you could do blue strip and yellow-red, even purple ro create some multi color dynamic dawn/duck effects.


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## jeffkrol

Dmarksvr said:


> Well I finally got a new PC, so if I ever get around to setting it up, and get my tc420 working I'll find a file hosting site link to here. Sounds like a pain to program though so was hoping someone else with one working could post theirs for me to modify or use.
> 
> Thx for the info... If the unit's software creates a directory on the PC, shouldn't need a flash drive right? Just upload it from PC to file hosting site then link to it for everyone to use. Be cool I think to get a.collection of different scheduals for people to try
> 
> I do vivariums more then aquariums, but I like the back lit backgrounds some are doing, and was thinking you could do blue strip and yellow-red, even purple ro create some multi color dynamic dawn/duck effects.











http://www.aquariumlife.com.au/showthread.php/57212-DIY-LED-build/page8

Tried to find this software "in the wild" but no luck so far.. but I didn't try too hard..


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## JasterMake

Double post fail..


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## JasterMake

These are the two main modes I use. I mainly use the 24h_col mode but created the BW only in case anything ever happened to my diy color leds. I have the program if anyone wants it.

24h_BW, I am only using one channel to drive my Beamswork hood.









24h_col I am using all 5 channels:
Ch1-red
Ch2-green
Ch3-blue
Ch4-Beamswork
Ch5-2 strips of cool white 5630 leds.


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## Ben125

Would this work with a Finnex planted+ LED?


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## Dmarksvr

Ben125 said:


> Would this work with a Finnex planted+ LED?


I think they have a proprietary connector, so you'd have to cut it off and attach a barrel connector, and beyond that I'm not sure if there is any rewiring that needs to be done. Maybe someone else will chime in... :help:

I would like to know what other beamswork models are compatible with the ramp timers, since I think only the 30" .5 pent is mentioned specifically here??? :help:


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## jeffkrol

Dmarksvr said:


> I think they have a proprietary connector, so you'd have to cut it off and attach a barrel connector, and beyond that I'm not sure if there is any rewiring that needs to be done. Maybe someone else will chime in... :help:
> 
> I would like to know what other beamswork models are compatible with the ramp timers, since I think only the 30" .5 pent is mentioned specifically here??? :help:


All of them can be dimmed, only limited by the power specs of the dimmer/controller..
In the case of the tc420..4A 
At 15V that is any running at less than 60Watts..


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## Dmarksvr

jeffkrol said:


> All of them can be dimmed, only limited by the power specs of the dimmer/controller..
> In the case of the tc420..4A
> At 15V that is any running at less than 60Watts..


Is that per channel (5 on the tc420 right?) or total? and what is it at 12v out curiosity?

For reference here are the specs on the new Fluval ramp timer...









*Control up to two LED lamps (2 x 12V lights, 2 x 24V lights, or 1 x 12V and 1 x 24V light)
Maximum power per channel is 36 W at 12V and 60 W at 24V
Compatible with most LEDs featuring a standard 2.1 x 5.5 mm DC plug connection*

and the Sunsetter...








Specifications:

1. Working temperature-20°C-60°C 
2. Input voltage: DC12V-24v ( DC24V also available, if you need, please specify the required voltage in "Special Instructions" when checkout)
3. 0utput Voltage: DC12V-24V










Not sure what that translates into for wattage on each channel???

And for further reference for anyone interested here is a PDF with specifications and comparison of the CurrentUSA line of ramp timers...
http://current-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/Ramp-Timer-Comparison.pdf


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## jeffkrol

It is on there 4A per channel...
W=VxA ever and always... 
Current products are too low power handling for the price..

As to the TC-420 pretty sure you can just swap out the n channel MOSFETS so as to handle a much higher than 4A load.
Only catch "may" be circuit board resistence.. but that too could be compensated for..
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/647434-diy-timer-dimmer-kind-5.html

see post 66 . no not that huge one.. There are smaller w/ higher current carrying capacity..


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## Dmarksvr

jeffkrol said:


> It is on there 4A per channel...
> W=VxA ever and always...
> Current products are too low power handling for the price..
> 
> As to the TC-420 pretty sure you can just swap out the n channel MOSFETS so as to handle a much higher than 4A load.
> Only catch "may" be circuit board resistence.. but that too could be compensated for..
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/647434-diy-timer-dimmer-kind-5.html
> 
> see post 66 . no not that huge one.. There are smaller w/ higher current carrying capacity..


I saw the 4a on back of sunsetter and I knew there was a formula, but didn't know what it was. Wouldn't do me much good though since most of what you wrote and what was in that thread, was Greek to me :iamwithst :laugh2:

Let me ask you though: Can I just cut the finnex connector off a planted +, add a barrel connector, and hook it to one channel of the tc420 and globally dim the entire fixture? ...or do the same, but with one of the ramp timers mentioned as long as I don't go to high of wattage fixture?

Basically that's all I wanna do. I can add sound responsive lightning with led strip and music controller, then have a MP3 alarm clock and Bluetooth speaker for my storm at a set time. I can also add a 6803 IC dream color and 133 mode controller on chase for dynamic cloud cover, and all kinds of wacky mood lighting. Then run led strip off another channel for moon light and/or red sunrise effect.

But I'm building racks of vivariums and I at least want to have dawn dusk on all the tanks, so looking for the most cost effective (and mostly plug and play) solution to do that. So maybe beamswork fixtures run off sunsetter or fluvial, or if I can run 5 off 1 tc420 that would be nice, but my guess would be to power consuming.

I'm thinking though since the racks will be 20h standard aquarium side by side on a 48" rack or other tanks lined up on a 60" rack that getting a finnex 24/7 for each level of the 4ft rack and two 30" 24/7s for each shelf of the 60" rack would be least hassle without much extra cost. I'll probably end up doing that and just modding them with some led strips to extend the 24/7's short full intensity period: maybe with a tc420 so I can add add more light or FX later.


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## jeffkrol

> Can I just cut the finnex connector off a planted +, add a barrel connector, and hook it to one channel of the tc420 and globally dim the entire fixture? ...or do the same, but with one of the ramp timers mentioned as long as I don't go to high of wattage fixture?


Yes..but there is no need for any connectors. Just cut the line between the ps and the fixture and attach it to th TC420.. or any PWM high current dimmer..They have screw connectors..








The dimmer does nothing but switch the fixture on/off using a MOSFET (consider it a solid state relay or switch running at high speed) and a control signal (PWM output (low voltage/low amps) from a microprocessor). Usually at 1mHz or less for these (500kHz normal). At 50% dimming the fixture is on 50% and off 50%

The controller can ramp up/down 5 Finnex's (one fixture per channel) as long as each is under 4A current draw..

another thread:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/796442-planted-dimmer-warranty-voiding-picture-heavy.html


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## pwu_1

I'm throwing around the idea of getting one of these TC-420 controllers, a couple of Beamswork 1W fixtures and R,G,B light strips to see if I can program it into something similar to a Finnex 24/7 but more powerful.
There are a couple of things that I'm struggling with though and I hope someone more knowledge can shed some light for me.
As far as I can tell, the Beamswork triple 1 W fixture uses a 15 Volt DC power supply. The strip lights use a 12 Volt supply.
Using the TC-420, the power for all the lights would come from the controller and since the supply voltage is different between the beamswork and the strip lights I would somehow need to change the output voltage for the different channels based on which light is hooked up that that channel right?
So, say I wanted to use 2 of the Beamswork 1W fixtures and Red/Green/Blue strip lights, I could potentially get a 15 Volt 20 amp power supply and hook up the Beamswork fixtures to channel 1 and channel 2. Then for Channel 3,4,5, I would need to get a buck driver to step down the voltage to 12 Volts and then hook up the Red/Green/Blue LEDs to the respective channel. 
Alternatively, I can get a 12 Volt power supply for the TC-420 and get 2 boost drivers for the beamswork on channel 1 and 2.
Would either of these methods work? Is there a preferred way(step up or step down)? Would this setup be reliable?
Would it be simpler to just get 2 TC-420 drivers and drive the beamswork and strip lights separately to avoid the potential headache of dealing with boost/buck drivers?
Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciate it. TIA


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## jeffkrol

Beamswork will light at 12V. A few people have gone that route, sacrificing BW power for stability..
that has been done qand tested..
Just need to get a bigger ps than the strips usually use (i.we match new 12v specs. BM plus strips current draw).

I've suggested, and haven't got any feedback as to success, to use power diodes to drop voltage . (Diodes "lose" about 1.5v ) so 2 in series would drop the voltage to the strips to 12v approx.
Using a 15V ps.. Problem is the BM one may not be able to handle the added current draw..

The strips will run fairly successful up to 14V but heating may become a problem..The voltage is not locked in stone, it is just the "safe" one at 12V.
That said I wouldn't exceed 14V....

Another alternative is a variable voltage ps so you can drop output to a "best fit" .. Probably 13V or so..
Pretty sure Meanwell makes a few that can adj. to those levels..
BW will still run dimmer but strips will run brighter..

As in any advice YMMV..

THERE IS a thread here w/ the mod you were looking to do w/ one exception, used the .5w ones BUT it is technically no different..


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## pwu_1

jeffkrol said:


> Beamswork will light at 12V. A few people have gone that route, sacrificing BW power for stability..
> that has been done qand tested..
> Just need to get a bigger ps than the strips usually use (i.we match new 12v specs. BM plus strips current draw).
> 
> I've suggested, and haven't got any feedback as to success, to use power diodes to drop voltage . (Diodes "lose" about 1.5v ) so 2 in series would drop the voltage to the strips to 12v approx.
> Using a 15V ps.. Problem is the BM one may not be able to handle the added current draw..
> 
> The strips will run fairly successful up to 14V but heating may become a problem..The voltage is not locked in stone, it is just the "safe" one at 12V.
> That said I wouldn't exceed 14V....
> 
> Another alternative is a variable voltage ps so you can drop output to a "best fit" .. Probably 13V or so..
> Pretty sure Meanwell makes a few that can adj. to those levels..
> BW will still run dimmer but strips will run brighter..
> 
> As in any advice YMMV..
> 
> THERE IS a thread here w/ the mod you were looking to do w/ one exception, used the .5w ones BUT it is technically no different..


thanks jeffkrol. yes I saw the guy using the tc-420 on the .5w and strip lights. I thought maybe the Beamworks .5w fixture uses a 12 volt power supply. 

I was looking at the mean well power supplies.
The SP-320-13.5 seems like the one I need. It puts out 297 watts of power at 13.5 volts and voltage is adjustable from 12-15 volts.
The only problem is that it is not cheap new and I'm not having much luck finding it used on fleabay. Might be cheaper to just get 2 tc-420 controllers and 2 separate power supplies and just program them separately. Too bad the controller can't have different voltage for each channel.. 
Anyway, I'm still trying to find out if 2 Beamworks 36" 2600 lights would be enough coverage to put me in high light range for a 46 bow front so I can grow carpeting plants.
But I'm really liking this idea of the beamworks fixtures being somewhat easily hackable.


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## pwu_1

Ok I decided to try it since I have some store credit at one of those chinese lights places and they have the tc-420.
So I ordered a TC-420 and 3 buck drivers to step down the voltage to 12 volts for the strip light. The beamworks 2600 fixture is out of stock currently(at the cheaper ebay seller) so I"m going to wait a bit on that. Now I just need a power supply and once it arrives I should be able to at least hook up the RGB light strip and play around with that. Will update if I can get it to work or not.


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## jeffkrol

pwu_1 said:


> Ok I decided to try it since I have some store credit at one of those chinese lights places and they have the tc-420.
> So I ordered a TC-420 and 3 buck drivers to step down the voltage to 12 volts for the strip light.


Are you using those cheap step down boards from you know where?
Not that it matters that much in this application but you are limited to 2-3A output..

Interesting.. these are rated to 14.9v..
https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/pdfs/NFLS-x.pdf

Pretty sure getting it to work is a piece of cake..


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## pwu_1

I ordered some constant current LED buck drivers from gearbest, where I also ordered the TC-420 from. I have some store credit from them so might as well.
the buck driver is suppossedly good for up to 8 amps. Much more than I need but I figured if I can get this to work this thing will be on for 8+ hours per day so I'm trying to get something more robust. 
While I think it can and will work, I'm not sure how reliable it will be in the long term so I guess the only way to tell is to try.
I'm just slightly paranoid about possibly starting an electrical fire by using these cheap chinese components...


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## pwu_1

hm you are right about some of those LEDs. I'm seeing some that are rated for 11-14.8 volts. So theortically, I can just turn the power supply say down to 14 volts and I would be able to run both the strip light and the Beamworks together. Interesting indeed. Guess I will do some experimenting when all the parts arrive.


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## Dmarksvr

Data point, ....

I decided to test a small beamswork to see if they'd meet my needs. I got this one... 
EVO 18 LED 6500K

It's the 18" 3w x10 (30watts). It comes with a 15v power supply and the standard DC connectors. 

My assumptions is this will work with the sunsetter, fluval, or currentUSA ramp timers.

Bump:


pwu_1 said:


> I'm throwing around the idea of getting one of these TC-420 controllers, a couple of Beamswork 1W fixtures and R,G,B light strips to see if I can program it into something similar to a Finnex 24/7 but more powerful.
> There are a couple of things that I'm struggling with though and I hope someone more knowledge can shed some light for me.
> As far as I can tell, the Beamswork triple 1 W fixture uses a 15 Volt DC power supply. The strip lights use a 12 Volt supply.
> Using the TC-420, the power for all the lights would come from the controller and since the supply voltage is different between the beamswork and the strip lights I would somehow need to change the output voltage for the different channels based on which light is hooked up that that channel right?
> So, say I wanted to use 2 of the Beamswork 1W fixtures and Red/Green/Blue strip lights, I could potentially get a 15 Volt 20 amp power supply and hook up the Beamswork fixtures to channel 1 and channel 2. Then for Channel 3,4,5, I would need to get a buck driver to step down the voltage to 12 Volts and then hook up the Red/Green/Blue LEDs to the respective channel.
> Alternatively, I can get a 12 Volt power supply for the TC-420 and get 2 boost drivers for the beamswork on channel 1 and 2.
> Would either of these methods work? Is there a preferred way(step up or step down)? Would this setup be reliable?
> Would it be simpler to just get 2 TC-420 drivers and drive the beamswork and strip lights separately to avoid the potential headache of dealing with boost/buck drivers?
> Any thoughts suggestions would be greatly appreciate it. TIA


 :icon_idea You could try running 2 Beamswork off sunsetter or currentusa ramp timer, or perhaps better yet a fluval which allows you to plug 2 power supplies in.

:icon_idea Then run your strips off the tc-420.

*Right Jeff???*


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## jeffkrol

Dmarksvr said:


> Data point, ....
> 
> I decided to test a small beamswork to see if they'd meet my needs. I got this one...
> EVO 18 LED 6500K
> 
> It's the 18" 3w x10 (30watts). It comes with a 15v power supply and the standard DC connectors.
> 
> My assumptions is this will work with the sunsetter, fluval, or currentUSA ramp timers.
> 
> Bump:
> 
> :icon_idea You could try running 2 Beamswork off sunsetter or currentusa ramp timer, or perhaps better yet a fluval which allows you to plug 2 power supplies in.
> 
> :icon_idea Then run your strips off the tc-420.
> 
> *Right Jeff???*


Tc-420's ar cheaper and have larger power handling capacity than any of the above so I don't see th point of "mixing"..
Maybe w/ the 2 ch Fluval if you have a small 15V or greater and a "not" 15v or greater strip..

That said finally got one to play with. Though it does what I said it does, it is not Perfect" nor exactly easy to work w/
But that is just a programming thing..and my opinion may change as I play a bit more..
Big thing was I thought I could program by button on the unit but I need too program by USB "wire". Kind of bugs me..
Has it's pros and cons.


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## Dmarksvr

jeffkrol said:


> Tc-420's ar cheaper and have larger power handling capacity than any of the above so I don't see th point of "mixing"..
> Maybe w/ the 2 ch Fluval if you have a small 15V or greater and a "not" 15v or greater strip..
> 
> That said finally got one to play with. Though it does what I said it does, it is not Perfect" nor exactly easy to work w/
> But that is just a programming thing..and my opinion may change as I play a bit more..
> Big thing was I thought I could program by button on the unit but I need too program by USB "wire". Kind of bugs me..
> Has it's pros and cons.


You are talking about programming the tc420 with usb right? ...cuz I watched a vid of the fluval guy programming the fluval ramp timer with buttons. Did I miss something?

Ya the fluval recommendation was for those of us who wanna run 1 or 2 beamswork fixtures and don't know how to calculate (and are intimidated by that kinda thing) what kinda psu we'd need to run the beamswork (especially 2 beamswork if possible), and then just run our strips off the tc420 (because I have some idea of what psu those 3m kits provide with the kits, to run a certain length of strip). 

I'll be running multiple beamswork fixtures for racks of vivariums, so that plan seemed to make sense for me. Fluval for every 2 beamswork fixtures and then run a strip over each line of tanks on a shelf from each channel of the tc420 for my moon lights and or a colored sunrise/sunset effect.


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## jeffkrol

You can run 5 Beamsworks off one tc-420. you just need to buy a larger power supply.. The math is simple.









W=V X A

http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mea...001FECE-5887-46D6-9ADF-20FA0E63D9C3csF6xHtb5l

For $63 it will run anything you want on all 5 channels @4A max per channel..


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## pwu_1

jeffkrol said:


> You can run 5 Beamsworks off one tc-420. you just need to buy a larger power supply.. The math is simple.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> W=V X A
> 
> http://www.onlinecomponents.com/mea...001FECE-5887-46D6-9ADF-20FA0E63D9C3csF6xHtb5l
> 
> For $63 it will run anything you want on all 5 channels @4A max per channel..



That's the exact power supply I picked up for my project. The specs say the power supply will adjust ftom 13.5 volts to 18 volts. The unit I got goes down to 12.5 and slightly over 18 with no load. The weird thing is the fan is tied to the output voltage. Fan speed changes as the output voltage is adjusted. On the used one I bought sometimes the fan won't turn when the voltage is turned down all the way and I plug it in. I have to un-plug and then plug it back. Not sure if it's just the used unit I got(maybe needs a new fan) but I'm not too worried right now since the power supply will be on all the time in use but I might look into getting a new fan if it gets worse. 
Also, I found the other thread that jeffkrol was talking about and decided to copy it. I ordered 2 36" pent LED lights and intend to add a few strips of rgb 5050 lights and running everything off the tc-420 for sunrise/sunset program. 
The Tc-420 I ordered hasn't shipped yet though so I think it'll be a while until I can report back. I'm just not sure if the pent with rgb strips will be enough light on my 46 bow front


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## Dmarksvr

Can you link to that thread?

Oh here is a 48" fixture that stays under the 60w Jeff mentioned....










http://www.aquatraders.com/LED-Aquarium-Lighting-Beamswork-Tropical-Fish-p/56377p.htm

Hopefully it has the same DC plug as other beamswork lights.
I also ordered a sample of some China light that has .1w LEDs in a mix of 6500k, green, blue and red (not 660nm). My guess is it will work with the various ramp timers also. I'll let you guys know .


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## pwu_1

Here is the thread where the guy got a 30 inch pent and added 4 strips of rgb lights to the fixture and 1 strip of white lights.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=627826

I'll probably add 5 strips of rgb LEDs and call it good.
Another interesting tidbit I found about the pent fixture, on aquatraders the 30 inch pent has 110 .5 watt LEDs and draws 55 watts(verified by the op in the thread I linked to). The 36 inch has 130 LEDs but only draws 57 watts. So, either the website is wrong or the 36 inch fixture is slightly under driven so they can stay below 4 amps/ 60 watts @ 15 v.
Personally I'm hoping they are under driving the LEDs to stay below 60 watts so I can use the tc-420. 
I ordered all the parts I need today, including the 5050 rgb led strip. Now just the long wait to get the to-420


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## lamder

jeffkrol said:


> Yes..but there is no need for any connectors. Just cut the line between the ps and the fixture and attach it to th TC420.. or any PWM high current dimmer..They have screw connectors..


Hi all, been lurking on this thread for a long time.

I found the Sunsetter settings not flexible enough for my needs so I decided to go with the TC420 route as well. (I have a 30" Pent).

If I want to avoid butchering the cable of the Beamswork PS, would it be okay to add a male/female barrel cable and cut _that_ instead?
Not sure if the dimensions of the ends are right, but would something like this work?

JR8307 1.5M - MULTICOMP - POWER CORD, DC 2.5MM BARREL PLUG-JACK, 1.5M | Newark element14
(It is rated for 4A and 15V)

Thanks,
Sam


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## Fiishman

If I wanted the whole "sunset/sunrise/cloudcover" effect on a pair of 36" 3W EVO quads, what would I need to do?

I'm not a great electrical guy so not much of what you guys are saying makes sense to me .


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## pwu_1

lamder said:


> Hi all, been lurking on this thread for a long time.
> 
> I found the Sunsetter settings not flexible enough for my needs so I decided to go with the TC420 route as well. (I have a 30" Pent).
> 
> If I want to avoid butchering the cable of the Beamswork PS, would it be okay to add a male/female barrel cable and cut _that_ instead?
> Not sure if the dimensions of the ends are right, but would something like this work?
> 
> JR8307 1.5M - MULTICOMP - POWER CORD, DC 2.5MM BARREL PLUG-JACK, 1.5M | Newark element14
> (It is rated for 4A and 15V)
> 
> Thanks,
> Sam


I don't know if that one will work but this one will work for sure(with the exception that you can't screw it on to the beamswork light)
http://www.amazon.com/Magicshine®-E...52533711&sr=8-1&keywords=magicshine+extension

Bump:


Fiishman said:


> If I wanted the whole "sunset/sunrise/cloudcover" effect on a pair of 36" 3W EVO quads, what would I need to do?
> 
> I'm not a great electrical guy so not much of what you guys are saying makes sense to me .


I don't think the TC420 works with the EVO quad light. The light draws too much current to be used with that controller.


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## Fiishman

pwu_1 said:


> I don't know if that one will work but this one will work for sure(with the exception that you can't screw it on to the beamswork light)
> http://www.amazon.com/Magicshine®-E...52533711&sr=8-1&keywords=magicshine+extension
> 
> Bump:
> 
> I don't think the TC420 works with the EVO quad light. The light draws too much current to be used with that controller.


Darn. I thought so.


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## jeffkrol

Fiishman said:


> Darn. I thought so.


The chips that handle to current have a lot higher spec than the unit lists. Not sure what the holdup is..
circuit board trace maybe. Those MOSFETS can take a lot more than 4A









little squares top right..


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## JasterMake

Ha. I never thought to look them up. 50A That's insane. But only 45w. So at 15V, 4A is kinda pushing it? Do you think that a large heat sink would fix that and allow us to overdrive the unit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## jeffkrol

JasterMake said:


> Ha. I never thought to look them up. 50A That's insane. But only 45w. So at 15V, 4A is kinda pushing it? Do you think that a large heat sink would fix that and allow us to overdrive the unit?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


first I had to find the correct spec sheet..
Then I had to accept the fact it is above my pay grade.. 

DTU09N03 pdf, DTU09N03 description, DTU09N03 datasheets, DTU09N03 view ::: ALLDATASHEET :::

Answer is probably here..Added little cyan square at 24/4A approx.








IF, by some miracle, I'm reading that right 15V/4A is right on the DC "safe" line..
http://www.nxp.com/documents/application_note/AN11158.pdf

Easiest thing is still using the MOSFET out to run another (p-channel) Mosfet.. Simple external circuit board.. 2 power supplies. 1 for the unit, one to run the lights..


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## jeffkrol

Actually it would be easier bypassing the internal MOSFETS adjust running the 5V "gate" voltage to something like this:

https://www.arrow.com/en/products/i...MYM0g&gclid=CM2D5rX9rcoCFdgPgQodrMYM0g#page-1
http://static6.arrow.com/aropdfconv...Q.4qIwsIxKdgx0E6w67ySawQKFSr5Nfgqfunnu79V_4H0

30A @ 15V ........


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## lamder

Here's are some notes on how I set up my BW Pent 30 with the TC420 controller without destroying any of the BW parts. The process was easier than I thought.
Hope they are useful to someone.

1. I got my TC420 from AliExpress, http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/7239710938.html?orderId=72176297346797, $24.50 shipped to California in 12 days.
2. For the extension cable, I went with 



How long of a cable you need depends on how far you need to separate the controller from end of the cable attached to the light.
The fat end of the extension cable is not used and can be cut away.

The cable is has two separately shielded groups of copper wires 
Strip some (~1cm or so) of the shielding from the cut end. Then carefully split the wire lengthwise for about an inch, to get a 'Y', to give enough room to attach the leads to the controller. 

One half of the wire's shield has repeated white dashes printed on it.
I confirmed via a multimeter that this is the negative end, as those dashes suggest. So this end goes to the CHx output terminal, and the other goes to the V+ output terminal. 

The plug of the BW power supply plugs neatly into the power socket on the controller, which is nice.

3. Attach the barrel plug of the extension cable to the light and you are done.

Programming the controller is pretty easy. The software is supposed to run on Windows 7, but I managed to use it on an ancient win XP laptop. The one gotcha to beware of:

If only the USB cable is attached to the controller when the controller is connected to the PC, the power led on the controller turns on, giving the impression that the controller is properly powered, but the PC could not detect the controller. Only after I supplied additional power via the power input (by connecting the BW PS to it) was I able to upload my programs to the controller. 

Cheers,
Sam


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## LS6 Tommy

I've been looking for a way to control (2) Fluval A3981 Aqualife & Plant LED fixtures and possibly (3) True Lumen LED Lunar Light pods if there's enough capacity. Ideally, I want to have at least (2) on/off cycles a day (one in the morning for feeding before I go to work) and dimming control over a longer period of time than what the Dual Ramp Timer Pro would give me. The Fluvals are 35W, 1.4A @ 24V each. Does anybody know if the TC-420 and a properly sized power supply will allow me to do this? I don't care about color control, just timing and dimming of the LEDs I already have. I don't care if the two Fluval A3981s are individually controllable as long as they can be either:

1) Turn on, ramp up to a fixed point below 100% for most of the day, ramped up to 100% and then ramped back down to a fixed point below 100% and shut off.

OR:

2) Just very slowly ramped to 100%, stay at 100% for a predetermined time and slowly ramped back down. 

Adding the lunar lights to a ramped or unramped program would be a bonus, but is not a necessity.

Tommy


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## charles1979

*please can someone send me a 24h hour programm for tc420*

hi everyone 
is someone have a programm done and work fine for tc420 controller

i spend days to try to create one but not happy with it 

i ve got 4 channel 
ch 1 for red
ch 2 for green 
ch 3 for red
ch 4 for white 
i use the channel five on jump for my co2

if somebody can send me a screen shot of there program it will be brillant.


[email protected] 

thanks and happy fish keeping


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## jeffkrol

charles1979 said:


> hi everyone
> is someone have a programm done and work fine for tc420 controller
> 
> i spend days to try to create one but not happy with it
> 
> i ve got 4 channel
> ch 1 for red
> ch 2 for green
> ch 3 for red
> ch 4 for white
> i use the channel five on jump for my co2
> 
> if somebody can send me a screen shot of there program it will be brillant.
> 
> 
> [email protected]
> 
> thanks and happy fish keeping


It would be easier if you said what you didn't like about it and a screen shot of it w/ "colors" labelled..


----------

