# CO2 Solenoid Recommendations



## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

I've never run CO2 before, and just about have my setup complete. One piece I need is a good solenoid. I've read some iffy things about a lot of cheaper solenoids, but I don't know much about what brands would be considered "high quality". 

Would this be a good option? 

https://valvesandinstruments.com/so...id-valve-normally-closed-general-service.html

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Very deep subject--- but not mind blowing once we look at the basics? 
One of the most important points to know is that we don't use solenoids the way most do and that can lead to trouble. Most solenoids, designed for industry are designed to pull up /operate for a reasonably short period of time and then the electrical current is cut off and they set dormant for some time and cool. The current going through a light bulb is what makes it hot and we find we can't hardly hold a 9 watt christmas tree bulb! The trouble comes in the way we want to turn the power on to open the solenoid and leave it powered for possibly 8 hours and that doesn't give the solenoid coil time to cool. So we need to look at a number of things, like how the solenoid operates and how much power it uses as those two things can combine to kill many solenoids. Also many industrial solenoids use 110 AC power to operate and that can lead to a hum as the 60 cycle current fluctuates up and down. Standing next to a gas furnace, you may have noticed a hum? That is not good when we have it in the living space with us! So the solenoid you've spotted would not be my choice for our use. Too hot and too noisy? 
Next best bet is a quite commonly used type that many call the "black box" sort. Look at almost all shelf ready CO2 setups and they will have the black box, some are better than others as the current used can be okay or not worth a flip. The problem that I don't like in these is the way they operate. They all have internal parts like a metal "pellet" that is moved by an electro -magnet to open and close and when the power is too high or too long, the metal gets too warm and the pellet sticks, either open or closed. The cheaper they come, the more likely to stick, so I avoid that type and go against the normal to get the operation I want. 
I find the Clippard Mouse series has a totally different operation and works more like a reed valve in a small engine where a tiny flap of metal moves to open and close the flow. The big point to me is that they are designed to be operated millions of times for automation and only use .67 watt to operate. Just can't overheat when it uses nearly no power! 

Info in the Clippard catalog:
http://www.clippard.com/downloads/P...pard Catalog by Section/Electronic Valves.pdf
One place to start a search for them:
https://www.diyco2regulator.com/co2-regulator-solenoid-with-15490-5-manifold-12v


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

PlantedRich said:


> Very deep subject--- but not mind blowing once we look at the basics?
> One of the most important points to know is that we don't use solenoids the way most do and that can lead to trouble. Most solenoids, designed for industry are designed to pull up /operate for a reasonably short period of time and then the electrical current is cut off and they set dormant for some time and cool. The current going through a light bulb is what makes it hot and we find we can't hardly hold a 9 watt christmas tree bulb! The trouble comes in the way we want to turn the power on to open the solenoid and leave it powered for possibly 8 hours and that doesn't give the solenoid coil time to cool. So we need to look at a number of things, like how the solenoid operates and how much power it uses as those two things can combine to kill many solenoids. Also many industrial solenoids use 110 AC power to operate and that can lead to a hum as the 60 cycle current fluctuates up and down. Standing next to a gas furnace, you may have noticed a hum? That is not good when we have it in the living space with us! So the solenoid you've spotted would not be my choice for our use. Too hot and too noisy?
> Next best bet is a quite commonly used type that many call the "black box" sort. Look at almost all shelf ready CO2 setups and they will have the black box, some are better than others as the current used can be okay or not worth a flip. The problem that I don't like in these is the way they operate. They all have internal parts like a metal "pellet" that is moved by an electro -magnet to open and close and when the power is too high or too long, the metal gets too warm and the pellet sticks, either open or closed. The cheaper they come, the more likely to stick, so I avoid that type and go against the normal to get the operation I want.
> I find the Clippard Mouse series has a totally different operation and works more like a reed valve in a small engine where a tiny flap of metal moves to open and close the flow. The big point to me is that they are designed to be operated millions of times for automation and only use .67 watt to operate. Just can't overheat when it uses nearly no power!
> ...


REALLY appreciate the detailed response! I will probably go with this option. I definitely don't want to skimp on this setup, and it HAS to be quiet.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

ASCO makes some nice stuff.. but usually is expensive.
only hints:
1)AC ones can get "noisy" due to coil chatter, My first solenoid for CO2 was an ASCO AC unit.
Started humming after awhile
2) Try to get ones <5W
3) Look to see if they are listed as "continuous duty". The watts get a bit less of an issue as they should be designed to compensate. No promises..  
4) Of course that they can take the pressure you want.
5) Make sure you know the exact fitting..
6) Try to keep the metal material the same in the chain.

now a violation of most of the above..
There are "promising" solenoids on the bay for decent prices..



> 1/4" Inch Normally Closed Fast Response Electric Air Water Solenoid Valve 12V DC
> 
> Model Number: 2ACK-1/4-12VDC-G
> 
> ...



https://wicvalve.com/Air-Directional-Control-Electric-Solenoid-Valve_c7.htm


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> ASCO makes some nice stuff.. but usually is expensive.
> only hints:
> 1)AC ones can get "noisy" due to coil chatter, My first solenoid for CO2 was an ASCO AC unit.
> Started humming after awhile
> ...


Thanks!

Is there a particular reason for trying to keep all the metal the same? The regulator is all brass I believe and the needle valve I have is definitely not (though I'm not certain what metal it is).


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

well first mechanically .. Stainless steel and like brass and aluminum have hardness differences.. Fairly easy to damage threads when one substance is harder than another..

aluminum and ss/Brass don't play well together galvanic-ally.. Electrical corrosion can occur..
The anodizing and thread dopes will cut down on the possibility and the less contact surface and drier it's kept as well..
Could take years to really matter though..


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## RLee (Sep 21, 2008)

TheUnssenHand said:


> Thanks!
> 
> Is there a particular reason for trying to keep all the metal the same? The regulator is all brass I believe and the needle valve I have is definitely not (though I'm not certain what metal it is).





jeffkrol said:


> well first mechanically .. Stainless steel and like brass and aluminum have hardness differences.. Fairly easy to damage threads when one substance is harder than another..
> 
> aluminum and ss/Brass don't play well together galvanic-ally.. Electrical corrosion can occur..
> The anodizing and thread dopes will cut down on the possibility and the less contact surface and drier it's kept as well..
> Could take years to really matter though..



I have had no issues mixing metals, you will not have any either. You will never damage a thread connecting brass to stainless or either to aluminum. Well unless you cross thread by accident. Electrical corrosion Jeff was talking about is called electrolysis. I repair boats and am very familiar with it. You will never ever have to worry about damage from electrolysis from dissimilar metals or any other reason when it come to regulators and accessories in a freshwater application.
The main reason people keep all the same metal is because it looks pretty.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Yea, neither is high on the priority lists of worrying about..
There was a poster here w/ def. fused ss/aluminum block due to galvanic corrosion..
But that was over 5 years old I believe..

Likely to happen and can't happen are 2 different things..

As noted above did mildly suggest the anodized aluminum solenoid valve..


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

You get corrosion of this type in rough conditions or where power is high. Our use of parts is so light in power and electrical use that it just doesn't matter--- assuming we screw it together right! We tend to feel we are around water a lot but not really when compared to a ship in salt water!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

PlantedRich said:


> You get corrosion of this type in rough conditions or where power is high. Our use of parts is so light in power and electrical use that it just doesn't matter--- assuming we screw it together right! We tend to feel we are around water a lot but not really when compared to a ship in salt water!



Tell that to faulty check valve..


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## guy4123 (Oct 11, 2018)

I have the Clippard ET-2M-12 and Burkert 6011 and I would say that I prefer the Clippard. The Clippard is 0.67 watts while the Burkert is 4 watts and I can tell by touch. The Clippard is slightly warm while the Burkert is almost too hot to touch. The Clippard's manifold (when detached from the solenoid itself) also allows you to place the solenoid closer to the regulator body than the Burkert due to the manifold being just a flat slab. The Burkert will have a rod that will come into contact with the regulator's gauges when attached too close to the regulator body during the installation process. The only reason I can think of picking the Burkert is for an all stainless steel build.


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

guy4123 said:


> I have the Clippard ET-2M-12 and Burkert 6011 and I would say that I prefer the Clippard. The Clippard is 0.67 watts while the Burkert is 4 watts and I can tell by touch. The Clippard is slightly warm while the Burkert is almost too hot to touch. The Clippard's manifold (when detached from the solenoid itself) also allows you to place the solenoid closer to the regulator body than the Burkert due to the manifold being just a flat slab. The Burkert will have a rod that will come into contact with the regulator's gauges when attached too close to the regulator body during the installation process. The only reason I can think of picking the Burkert is for an all stainless steel build.


Thanks for sharing your experience!
@jeffkroll @PlantedRich - I appreciate the discussion!I'll do what I can to keep similar metals for OCD reasons, but probably won't stress too much if I can't.

So I think I'll go with the Clippard. The next question I have is about the setup in general. I'm thinking about going with a flow meter instead of a bubble counter. Something like this: Flow Meter

Two questions: 1. Does a flow meter like this essentially take the place of a needle valve since it regulates flow as well? 2. The general flow of CO2 is: CO2 tank>Regulator>Solenoid>Flow Meter>Diffuser>Tank, correct? 

Extra question, it seems unavoidable that, at some point, the outflow from the CO2 tank must enter the aquarium (through a diffuser or reactor). I assume what was mentioned above about a check valve is to prevent aquarium backflow into the regulator? Where would one obtain those check valves?

Any recommendations for sites that supply fittings would be appreciated! My regulator has 1/4" NPT threads, and it looks like the Clippard is 1/8". I'll need a reducer and then parts to hook up the flow meter.

I appreciate the help for a newbie to CO2 setups!


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Since we were all new at some point and postings is what keeps a forum active, we often find the "new " questions are what keeps us going! The old brain muscle needs exercise like the others? 
So some key points to know are easy to spot. One is the tiny amount of CO2 we use compared to most users of flowmeters. Many flowmeters are on tanks used in greenhouse situations where they simply fill the air with tons of CO2 and maybe in a forty foot long room! The one you refer to is right for 1-25 liters per MINUTE while the ones I use are in Cubic feet per HOUR and between zero and .o8 CFPM. There are a wide range of different flowmeters but it seems Dwyer is the brand I see most often and they do come in lots of different flow ranges including metric, per minute, per hour, etc. that I have to go to an online calculator to cross reference the terms like liters per hour versus cubic feet per minute. Some flowmeters do have a form of needle valve built into them but then it depends on how well they will do the fine tuning part we like. Some are okay while others are too course for adjusting what we might like. Some of what changes how much CO2 we use is the tank size as well as how well what we add stays in without gassing off. 
Yes, the check valve is to keep the tank water from ever reaching the good stuff like the solenoid, needle valve or reg. Think of the mineral buildup when water dries in a tea kettle and you see why we don't want it in the precision stuff? Check valves come in everything from too cheap plastic that splits and lets water flood the floor up through some costing big bucks. I find I like the mid grade plastic like Ark-Plas or US Plastics sell. Bummer is the shipping so I try to hold off an order until I need several things. Recommend NOT using the plastic ones for air pumps that are found in the local shops. Our higher pressure tends to split them. 
Sites for the small fittings are all over the net but I like to take the parts to a local hardware and actually SEE them screw together before saying the threads are really the right one. 
Not sure of your experience with small plumbing but don't miss the point that 1/4 or 1/8 inch fitting are not every really 1/4 or 1/8 inch. As far as I can tell small part plumbing was first invented to drive us crazy!


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## guy4123 (Oct 11, 2018)

TheUnssenHand said:


> Thanks for sharing your experience!
> 
> @jeffkroll @PlantedRich - I appreciate the discussion!I'll do what I can to keep similar metals for OCD reasons, but probably won't stress too much if I can't.
> 
> ...


The first question is how big is your tank? If it's on the smaller side, e.g. less than 50 gallons, then a bubble counter would probably be sufficient. It's only when you reach a point where it's quite difficult to count the bubbles would you consider getting a flow meter. Flow meters wouldn't be very accurate at the lower end of the scale.

The flow meter that you linked is too much for the purposes of aquarium CO2 injection. What you want is the Dwyer Instruments RMA-151-SSV (the SSV suffix includes the stainless steel valve) It handles flows from 5-50 CC/min. If the rate is not enough (say your tank is 200+ gallons), then you would want the RMA-150-SSV (10-100 CC/min). If you get either of these flow meters, they would replace both the bubble counter and the needle valve as they function as both. Either flow meters will have 1/8" Female NPT connections so you would need to get a 1/8" Male NPT to Tube adapter in order to connect your CO2 tubing. The sequence of the flow of CO2 is correct.

For check valves, there's an auction site with the suffix Bay that you can search CO2 check valve. They usually are pretty cheap (not sure about reliability).

The build itself is rather simple. I will be listing the part numbers for stainless steel fittings from Swagelok in parenthesis. If you want the brass version, just change the SS prefix to B (e.g. SS-4-HRN-2 becomes B-4-HRN-2). You can find them on the same auction site by searching the part numbers given. Don't forget to use PTFE (Teflon) tape on all of the NPT threads (Not the threads that are on the tube end that have nuts). The sequence is as follows (use the guide on diyco2regulator to see how it will look): CO2 Tank > CGA 320 Fitting with 1/4" MNPT (Don't forget washer or permaseal) > Regulator > 1/4" MNPT to 1/8" MNPT Hex Reducing Nipple (SS-4-HRN-2) > Clippard Solenoid > 1/8" MNPT to 1/4" Tube OD Elbow (SS-400-2-2) > CO2 Tubing > 1/4" Tube OD to 1/8" MNPT Elbow (SS-400-2-2) > Dwyer Flow Meter > 1/8" MNPT to 1/4" Tube OD Elbow (SS-400-2-2) > CO2 Tube > Diffuser. All of the CO2 tubing can be connected directly to the 1/4" Tube OD Fitting. The end result will be a post-body that looks like a simple L shape.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> 1. Does a flow meter like this essentially take the place of a needle valve since it regulates flow as well?


Flow meter IS a needle valve and a floaty ball.. 


> 2. The general flow of CO2 is: CO2 tank>Regulator>Solenoid>Flow Meter>Diffuser>Tank, correct?


Yes ..you can add check valve between flow meter and diffuser
US plastics has nice and cheap disc type check valves.

As to brass fittings, many hardware store carry a good supply.. 

As to flowmeters. one needs to math the l/min to your intended flow rate..
1 Liter per minute (min measured flow) may be too much..

Back of napkin guessing (which may be orders of magnatude off)
means that's 30,000 "bubbles" per minute or 497 bubbles per second..

In case you are wondering I was using .0000335 Liters per bubble..(4mm diameter..)

"Common" size:


> RMA-150 Flowmeter, range 10-100 cc/min air, no valve. ±8% accuracy.


.01 Liter to 1 Liter.


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

@jeffkrol @PlantedRich @guy4123: Great info guys, thanks!

As I already have a needle valve, could I use something like this?

https://www.globaltestsupply.com/pr...ItVGsw2dg0j7cKe-mTGSVlMIF8swapJsaArDXEALw_wcB

I'm not sure what flow rate that can handle though. Not sure what SCHF unit is.

Another question I was wondering about: What exactly makes tubing "CO2 resistant"? I understand the term, but how do they treat the tubing, or what is it made of, that makes it less permeable to CO2? How crucial is it to get CO2 resistant tubing? That is to say, how much less permeable is it than polyethylene tubing you can pick up at a hardware store for 1/4 the price?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

1-10 SCFH is equiv. to .5-5LPM.. 
You need to sort of guess at what volume of CO2 you will use..
I personally just "drip" small amounts of CO2 into smaller tanks (none larger than a 55)
so almost ANY flowmeter won't work for me..
.5 to 2.5 SCFH === .2 to 1.2LPM
.5-5 SCFH === .25 to 2.5LPM

Would be my only choices..
You need to check w/ flowmeter people.. : )
What tank size is a start..



Nothing is "solid' so to speak.. Spaces between molecules or "crystals" maxtrixs ect.. soo some things allow things to leak out.
Also some substances naturally "dissolve" things into them..

At least as I understand the Universe.. 

almost all common tubing is fairly impervious to CO2 except Silicone tubing..
technically that only really matters w/ high pressures and length of tubing runs..
At worst one could lose a few $'s per year..unless an extreme setup....
Even the venerable ADA only uses silicone for the "last mile" since it is much easier on glass stuff..

I found it more difficult to find tubing that "fits" things more of an issue than the type of tubing.

Oh and some does have a tendency to harden faster than other tubing so replacement costs could come into play..

And pressure ratings..a lot of tubing "we" use is "technically" not rated for like 30-50psi..though I've never heard of any tube blowouts..


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> 1-10 SCFH is equiv. to .5-5LPM..
> You need to sort of guess at what volume of CO2 you will use..
> I personally just "drip" small amounts of CO2 into smaller tanks (none larger than a 55)
> so almost ANY flowmeter won't work for me..
> ...


I guess it would help if I mentioned the tank size haha.

It's going to be a small tank. 20 gallon long with a 10 gallon sump. Is that just too small to bother with a flow meter? I love equipment, but if the equipment is pointless, well I'd still want it. But if it won't function properly, then there is no reason for it.


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## guy4123 (Oct 11, 2018)

TheUnssenHand said:


> @jeffkrol @PlantedRich @guy4123: Great info guys, thanks!
> 
> As I already have a needle valve, could I use something like this?
> 
> ...


The one you linked is still too much flow. The range of 1-10 SCFH is equivalent to 472-4720 CC/min. The amount of CO2 needed for our purposes is approximately 1/100 of that flow. That leads us back to the Dwyer Instruments RMA-150 (10-100 CC/min) or RMA-151 (5-50 CC/min). Since you already have a needle valve, you can look for the listed flow meters without the -SSV suffix as they will be without a needle valve. There's one RMA-151 on the evilbay (item #352506643328) or RMA-150 (item #113293529281).

For tubing, I found a link https://www.coleparmer.com/tech-article/tubing-selection-guide that shows permeability of various tubing. They have a nicer looking PDF at the bottom of the page. The lower the number for CO2 permeability, the better the tubing. According to that chart, silicone is the worst performer for our application. It appears FEP, PTFE or PVC is the best, but I'm not an expert on this.

Bump:


TheUnssenHand said:


> I guess it would help if I mentioned the tank size haha.
> 
> It's going to be a small tank. 20 gallon long with a 10 gallon sump. Is that just too small to bother with a flow meter? I love equipment, but if the equipment is pointless, well I'd still want it. But if it won't function properly, then there is no reason for it.


Oh, flow meters wouldn't be that great for tanks that size. I would assume a bubble counter is probably adequate.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I tend to not worry the issue of CO2 going out the side of tubing as it is much easier to go out the end in most of our uses. Some depends on what we have at the end and what pressure we use. Most gas or liquid will go out where it is easy and if we run a reactor we may go as low as 4 PSI or as high as 40-50 if we use a ceramic disk diffuser. That leaves the question of gas forcing it's way through between molecules of the side wall or going out the end? Kind of like walking out the door when you could force your way through the wall! I talked to the techies at US Plastics as I was ordering a bunch of stuff and they pretty much laughed when I told them the temperature and pressure of the gas, as they are used to folks running a few hundred feet and a couple hundred pounds. I run the cheap airline and probably lose far more gas through leaving leaks at fittings or when I change the tank. I suggest getting fittings that fit good and compression fittings are more consistent and reliable than barbs, etc. I try to find fitting where I need to heat the tubing in hot water before forcing it on as it then shrinks back and seals better but the right fit seems more important than the material. 
I also agree that particular flowmeter might be too large for a ten gallon. On a twenty long, I was running.04 cubic feet per hour but then I was also running near the same on a 75 next to it, so it is very much a guess as it depends on not only what we add to the tank but how much is wasted/gassed off. A big tank with good diffusion can use as little as a small tank where it goes in and blows straight out the top. But gas is really cheap if we get a good sized CO2 tank. The charge is more in the labor to refill than the gas itself. I do not find the price as much problem as the time/effort to go for the refill.


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

Thanks again everyone!

So, I'll continue with the questions. I'm going to have a sump on this tank and I'd absolutely love to keep everything, including the CO2 diffuser/reactor, there. Should I assume more CO2 loss on a system like this (water traveling a greater distance and exposed to more air)? If so, would that change anyones opinion on the bubble counter over the flow meter?

On the topic of diffusers and reactors, what has been your experience? Is one more effective than the other (I'd assume a general rule of thumb would be that reactors are more effective)? Any recommendations there? I was wondering about the diffusers. If you are putting such a tiny quantity of CO2 through the system, how do you build enough pressure to force the CO2 through the diffuser plate? Does it just build up naturally based on the permeability of the diffuser plate until enough pressure exists to force the CO2 through?


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## TheUnseenHand (May 14, 2017)

Well, I ordered the Clippard! I've been researching check valves, and I'll have to research Diffusers vs reactors a bit since it seems a flow meter isn't the way to go on a 20 gallon. It's getting closer to build thread time too. Not quite yet, but in the next couple weeks.

In any case, I appreciate all the help to this point @PlantedRich, @guy4123, @jeffkrol ! I learned a lot from you guys!


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

Does anyone have a link of where to purchase the Burkert 6011? I've tried googling, but not finding much. Didn't know if someone had a reputable dealer they purchase from. Thanks in advance!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Most of these are scavenged off eeek bay....
Buying "retail" would be costly...

Radwell is sort of my go to for stuff like this...
https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/BURKERT EASY FLUID CONTROL SYS/BURKERT EASY FLUID CONTROL SYS/6011

There are a number of "varieties" though.. 
Like this..362286159688
1/8 G "ports" i.e British pipe thread..

https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Search/?q=burkert+solenoid

i find them too confusing to really bother with and believe the 6011 is "old school" numbering.. but could be wrong..
I was wrong.. 
https://www.burkert-usa.com/en/type/6011

461 467 brass 87psi 24V DC 461 779 stainless steel 87psi 24V..both 1/8npt.....ect
see pg 7/8
https://www.burkert.com/en/Media/pl...-US-EN.pdf?id=DTS0000000000000001000341808ENA


https://tameson.com/solenoid-valve/...-8-inch-stainless-steel-fkm-0-0bar-24vdc.html

like I said.. too confusing.. 

There are easier to deal with.. sort of..
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/...t_sourcing&utm_campaign=partsourcing_octopart
6W


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

Sorry kind of rookie at all of this. Built my regulator a few years ago and forgot what learned. Lol. So the Norgren 141115-12VDC would be a comparable replacement for my Burkett with the below specs from the label...6011 A 5/64 NBA 55 NPT1/8 PMAX 115PSI 120V 60Hz 4 W 463939


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

AFAICT..spec sheet looks to be good up to 100psi..
Wattage is a bit higher than the Burkert. 6W vs 4W
.245 Cv
nc..normally closed

https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/NORGREN/NORGREN/U141115-12VDC
THAT one Radwell.. looks to be NO normally open.. NO good..
According to the picture.. 
OPPS looks like no is err "number".. but not 100% certain.
NO from spec sheets don't go to 1/8" orifice..

Neither are "in stock" atm so I'd stick w/ Allied..


"U" is UL "recognized".
If B,C, or D low watt coils.. 2,2.5,3W...can't find atm

https://assets.alliedelec.com/v1554372849/Datasheets/44e4ea2e714c738771616e2429b283f0.pdf
pg7

SMC makes some good ones too.
Older model VDW's is what I have the most of..

Also tricky to pin down..
VDW21-6g-1-01n is the best.
will work w/ 1/8npt plug in top port.
https://automationdistribution.com/...MIy_bTm8i44wIVDP_jBx1UdAWQEAkYBSABEgJmqvD_BwE
SMC VDW350-6G-3-01N
250 is 390 series 3 way nc
01N is 1/8npt.
6g is 12 v grommet.. (5g would be 24V)
Orifice is 3 good to .4 MPa = 58psi 2 is better 4 is unuseable.
https://www.smcpneumatics.com/pdfs/VDW.pdf

250 series is smaller and all orifices are useable

SMC vdw250-6G(5G)-1(2)-01N(02N would be 1/4npt)
Rest of the numbers are mostly unimportant for us. Body material (brass or SS) seals ect.
https://www.smcpneumatics.com/pdfs/VDW.pdf

*DANG.. so used to DC.. Your Burkert is line voltage*.. Would need a DC power pack..1A, either 12 or 24V depending on which one..
VDW21-3g-1(or 2)-01N
Here..
https://automationdistribution.com/...MIyKCir8244wIVq_7jBx2yMAMQEAkYASABEgLuivD_BwE

Sorry still a 3way so need to plug the top but AC and correct orifice size (1.6mm = .06" 5/64=0.08" close enough  ) and ports (threads) 

I'd still recommend switching to DC though

Yea IT'S A MESS..


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Let's just make this easy..

https://www.smcpneumatics.com/VDW21-3G-1-01N.html
Just order from them.
Order from SMC..
3W coil 2 way, NC, 1/8NPT, 1.6mm orifice, good to .7MPa (101psi) 110V AC
5 in stock.


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

Okay. Perfect. That made it really easy for me. I ordered one. Thanks for all the help!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

you are welcome.. SMC makes nice stuff..


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

What power supply do you recommended?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

tke0398 said:


> What power supply do you recommended?



for the solenoid? Pretty sure it's AC.. or it's supposed to be.
Matching your Burkert..

"3G" is 110V AC 50/60Hz grommeted wires..

5G 24V DC Would use 1/2 A ps (12W)
6G 12V DC 3/4A (9W) 
Using 4W power consumption..


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

Would something like this work if I stripped and connected


https://www.amazon.com/Signcomplex-...r+supply+24v&qid=1563571000&s=gateway&sr=8-12


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

tke0398 said:


> Would something like this work if I stripped and connected
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Signcomplex-...r+supply+24v&qid=1563571000&s=gateway&sr=8-12



If you need 24 DC sure..It's capable of 12W

and SMC's are no more than 4W..

I'm still confused...


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

Lol. Me too. So is there a link you can share that would work with that solenoid?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

tke0398 said:


> Lol. Me too. So is there a link you can share that would work with that solenoid?



IF .. you got the one w/ the number I gave you.. you just use an electrical cord and plug it into the wall socket (or timer socket)


That's why *I'm* confused..


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## tke0398 (Jun 25, 2015)

Ahhh. Ordered the one you indicated but it didn't come with a plug. Just 2 raw wires to connect to a power supply I assume.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

tke0398 said:


> Ahhh. Ordered the one you indicated but it didn't come with a plug. Just 2 raw wires to connect to a power supply I assume.


Connects to a cord to plug into the wall..


https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-8-ft...VxJ6zCh0ooAoyEAQYASABEgK1EPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
















> specs from the label...6011 A 5/64 NBA 55 NPT1/8 PMAX 115PSI *120V 60Hz *4 W 463939


How did you power your Burkert..????


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