# Josh's Regulator Build Thread



## SaltyNC (Jun 26, 2012)

Thanks for doing this. I've learned a lot from reading your previous threads.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

SaltyNC said:


> Thanks for doing this. I've learned a lot from reading your previous threads.


Cool, glad I could help. That's why we're here, right? To learn and help others. 

That and I guess to gock at people's tanks that are nicer than our own... hahaha


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Got bored this morning... Put a couple pieces of the all stainless Swagelok regulator I've been piecing together, together.

I ran into a little snag I thought I'd share as it's a pretty common problem with an easy solution. 

Taped the parts I was going to assemble:










The cga-320 nut went in just fine. (they always go in easy because you don't need it pointing in any specific direction.) When I tightened down the high pressure gauge, I couldn't get it tight and straight. Either I was going to have to really wrench down on it (which is not something you to do with stainless steel as you could break a thread and have to throw the whole thing away) or take it back off, clean off all the tape scraps and re-tape it, using more tape. (sometimes less if you've already got more than 4 turns on the fitting)

Before:










After:










That's it for now. I'm waiting on some fittings from Swagelok to get shipped. It's a funny thing about Swagelok - they take FOREVER sometimes to get you parts if they have to make them just for you.

A random note about gauges.

I love these WIKA 232.54 series stainless gauges. The quality/appearance rivals that of Swagelok. Not quite as nice though. They can be had for a lot less money anyway. If you find yourself on ebay looking for gauges for whatever reason, pay real close attention to the model numbers and not just the appearance. A slight 'one number' off difference like 232.54 and 232.53 doesn't just mean they are slightly different. They will be way off. Even if you find a set with the same matching model numbers they could be years apart from when they were produced. So you've still a got a little bit of 'chancing it' happening. Just thought I'd share.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I had about an hour this afternoon to mess around with a couple regs. Finished this one up:










Pretty standard stuff. Victor VTS-250B, Burkert 6011 solenoid, Ideal 52-1-12. Nice and compact for 2-stage. A true workhorse. 

I love it boxes from Swagelok show up at my door 










(No idea why I posted that pic )

Then I did some test fitting with this one:










This one's a Victor HPT-500. (re-branded by BOC) All chrome and stainless. Swagelok pipe fittings, Swagelok S series metering valve w/verier handle and Clippard manifold mount mouse solenoid. 

Shiny...

I'll take some pics when I put it together.


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## starquestMM (Aug 26, 2012)

Looking great! 

Do all the regulators you build have pressure relief valves on the high side? The two stage regulator I have here is a six port (3 hi 3 lo). It has a relief on one of the low side ports, but none on the high side ports. I don't know if I should find one for the high side or just plug that port.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

What regulator do you have? I usually remove them but its recommended that you use them on some models.


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## starquestMM (Aug 26, 2012)

its an older veriflo 11500676. It looks well treated and I was told it is working, just haven't found much info for it yet.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

You don't need relief valves.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

starquestMM said:


> its an older veriflo 11500676. It looks well treated and I was told it is working, just haven't found much info for it yet.


it is 15 psi max output though, the lower pressure gauge is 0-30 psi, I have a couple same regs, model 11500864, still in original bags.
It is made by Parker Hannifin, some of them are chrome plated.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Got a few question, what the difference between the inlet CGA 320 coming with a "build" in washer? 

1.The washer is thicker and seated within the nipple contrast to the normal disposable ones.

2.Can you buy any CGA 320 regardless if your regulator is "left" thread or "right" thread?

Here a pic of the CGA 320









Basically, I have a regulator that I want to fix up but the original CGA 320 has those built in washers. It also included some weird rubber washer. I'm trying to salvage this regulator.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

FlyingHellFish said:


>


The stems are international standard stem, not the US standard.

you can put a international/BK standard CO2 connection port on the US standard CO2 tank, because the inner thread diameter(nut) is only slightly larger than the US standard CGA 320 (nut), and the threads per inch are the same.
But not a CGA 320 on a international standard CO2 tank, don't fit.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

I was thinking of the actual regulator itself, not sure if I can go with a CGA 320 fitting rather than a British/Euro one. 

With such a small difference in thread size, I can't tell if the regulator will take a 320. The build in washer type is also in US Standard, it's a MircoMatic.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

What is the central point on this posting? 

I was going to do something but I forgot what? 

That happens to me sometimes! Among retired guys we call that the "duck" syndrome. You chase an item but if you forget what it was, you just chase something else.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

PlantedRich said:


> What is the central point on this posting?
> 
> I was going to do something but I forgot what?
> 
> That happens to me sometimes! Among retired guys we call that the "duck" syndrome. You chase an item but if you forget what it was, you just chase something else.


My point? I just wanted to track my progress and probably give out a few pointers along the way. I didn't document my work on the 250 because its been done a lot with that particular set up. I also don't have all the parts yet for the Swagelok unit. Just ran out of time with the 500... Not sure what you're trying to say here. Oh, not retired either. I'm only 34.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> I also don't have all the parts yet for the Swagelok unit.


Sure expensive, the swagelok.

Have been stocking the swagelok for a while now, have enough to make multiple systems


the HPT500 look really nice, but the 1/8 female end elbow is a quit a size, you can order the 1/8 male end to female end elbow, really compact, the post body will look better.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

It just kind of reminded me of my work bench when I'm in between anything of real interest. I get a bunch of parts here and there but not much that anybody else could see as a project. Most of it is good stuff but it won't ever fit together.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I think I like this configuration better. I'll keep trying. (it didn't look any better w/ a street elbow...)


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Well, this one works.










I'll post how I wired this one up later. It's probably the absolute cleanest way to run power to your mouse solenoid.


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## storrisch (Jan 22, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> Well, this one works.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I'm interested. Gonna be wiring up a mouse on Monday.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

storrisch said:


> I'm interested. Gonna be wiring up a mouse on Monday.


Well here you go then.

Pretty simple really. All you have to do is use Clippard part # ET-C48 and a run of the mill AC adapter.



















All I did was open up the AC adapter, remove output cable it came with and soldered in the new cable. Obviously this only works with the terminal connector mouses. 

I just couldn't stand the look of the clip-on style connector or the white leads or the weird looking connector Clippard offers. This just looks clean.


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

Oldpunk, that wire is the "bee's knees." Very clean and thanks for the info!
Bettatail will need to get some of these since he champions these solenoids.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

ipkiss said:


> Oldpunk, that wire is the "bee's knees." Very clean and thanks for the info!
> Bettatail will need to get some of these since he champions these solenoids.


You are welcome, sir. Who knows, maybe he will.


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

You know, it probably makes more sense to have the terminals go out horizontally. How tight is that connection? Wouldn't the wire drop off in the last pic that you have where the terminals are going straight down?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

That connection is pretty tight. I don't see how it could fall off. It's basically holding onto the terminals with 2 small spade connectors.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> Well, this one works.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That is BEAUTIFUL!!! I might have to look into this Swagelok regulator, I was keeping an eye out for a Concoa 212 series on evilbay. 

Mind telling me how much you got that for?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I think I found it for $45 (no gauges though).


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Where did you get it for that price? What model is that?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Where did you get it for that price? What model is that?


Not exactly sure which model it is. It's an older unit and I couldn't find the exact model when I was searching. It was a fleabay find. I actually got a couple of them. One came doa and this ones acting a little funny. You have to be careful with these I think. Most have been abused.

(sorry I missed your post)


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Here's a pretty nice hpt-500 build. I decided to make this one "Mr. Fisher" style. 

Getting everything ready to assemble.









(How does he keep his tape job so clean? lol)

Progress.










Every wonder what it looks like inside your 6011?










Getting the solenoid in place.










How Swagelok tube connections should look with soft tubing.










All done.




















Coming soon: a Concoa 312 build


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## storrisch (Jan 22, 2011)

Nice build. So simple but very clean looking.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

storrisch said:


> Nice build. So simple but very clean looking.


Thanks. The idea is to use as few parts as possible and still keep it functional. The less you use, the less there is to go wrong. This was my first time using the reducing elbow. I wasn't really a fan until I actually tried it. Now I like it a lot. 

The next time I try this, I'm going to see if I can make it a little more compact. Shorter long hex nipple...


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

Until you try it, it's not really possible to understand how difficult it can be to screw pieces together when you need some space. When you find yourself disassembling a metering valve and removing a gauge just to be able to attach one fitting ...well, doing is believing. 

I think I like that 1/4 stretch across the top, with the reducing elbow.

I've been trying to get a machinist friend of mine to build me a bunch of Mouse mounts with 1/8 ports on each side. I'll send you and Betta a couple if he ever gets around to it 

Two questions - for that Burkert, is it a 120AC, and is the SS mount and shaft the only difference between it and the brass version?

And one final thought - what about putting yet another elbow where the HR3 attaches and running the HR3 straight up?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

wow, nice build!

It is a little bit coincident though, just finish a couple Concoa 412 this week, and a stainless steel Airproducts today. the full SS Airproducts is with the burkert solenoid and the parker H3L, but different style.
and a 312, 315, two 212 just came in, no time to build, :icon_sad:


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

kevmo911 said:


> Until you try it, it's not really possible to understand how difficult it can be to screw pieces together when you need some space. When you find yourself disassembling a metering valve and removing a gauge just to be able to attach one fitting ...well, doing is believing.
> 
> I think I like that 1/4 stretch across the top, with the reducing elbow.
> 
> ...


Kick your friend in the butt and tell him to hurry up. I have a spare solenoid w/o a manifold, lol. To answer your questions, no, that Burkert is DC (doesn't get hot, just warm) and the only difference I see between the brass and SS version is the body itself. I think they use the same plunger on all of the 6011's. You just have different orifice sizes and and coil options. I just found a 2 watt DC Burkert I'm going to be trying out soon. I think it was intended for use in the medical field. It's a little smaller than the 6011. I can't find much info on it other than the standard pdf's though. It's a 2822. I did try the verical option mounting the H3. It looked a little okie to me and I did care for it. I think I have a specific opinion on how I want these things to look though.


Bettatail said:


> wow, nice build!
> 
> It is a little bit coincident though, just finish a couple Concoa 412 this week, and a stainless steel Airproducts today. the full SS Airproducts is with the burkert solenoid and the parker H3L, but different style.
> and a 312, 315, two 212 just came in, no time to build, :icon_sad:


Thanks  I like Concoa. They do little things like the paint dots on the connections to let you know if anyone's messed around with them. I think there's a bit of a surplus with Concoa's right now. Usually, there kinda scarce. I know about the no time thing. I've been working 6 days a week lately. I'm tired


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

What has two thumbs and likes a solid stainless regulator?




























-Stainless Parker regulator
-Stainless Parker metering valve
-Stainless Burkert 6011
-Stainless Swagelok fittings
-Stainless Smith nut/nipple


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## clang (Jan 27, 2011)

that is a very nice SS regulator, Josh!! what would that rig sell for? 

just wondering, does your SS burkert 6011 solenoid have Viton/FKM seals or Buna-N seals?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

clang said:


> that is a very nice SS regulator, Josh!! what would that rig sell for?
> 
> just wondering, does your SS burkert 6011 solenoid have Viton/FKM seals or Buna-N seals?


Under normal circumstances, I would list this one at $500. (and probably still should) Since I don't have a lot into this one, I'm not asking that much.

That particular 6011 has a Vinton seal.


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## clang (Jan 27, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> Under normal circumstances, I would list this one at $500. (and probably still should) Since I don't have a lot into this one, I'm not asking that much.
> 
> That particular 6011 has a Viton seal.


thanks a bunch for the info. it sure looks nice!!! good luck with its sale.


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

Is Burkert 6011 A model a Vinton or Buna seal?


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## storrisch (Jan 22, 2011)

Josh where did you get the stainless cga320 from? I can't find them locally and haven't started searching online for them yet.


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## ianiwane (Sep 7, 2004)

Check this place out.

http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

nice, I have the same reg in storage, got it as new, it is a waste to build it though, the reg itself is $800+, and it is a current model that offer by parker, so the proper price outside of industrial parts logistic supply chain, is about half of that retail, which is around $400.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

storrisch said:


> Josh where did you get the stainless cga320 from? I can't find them locally and haven't started searching online for them yet.





ianiwane said:


> Check this place out.
> 
> http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/


That's where I got it. I'm sure there are cheaper options but I don't build too many stainless regs...


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> nice, I have the same reg in storage, got it as new, it is a waste to build it though, the reg itself is $800+, and it is a current model that offer by parker, so the proper price outside of industrial parts logistic supply chain, is about half of that retail, which is around $400.


It's a waste as in you'd make more off of it to just re-sell it?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

I will build at least one anyway, have 3 of them..


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

Hey guys,


I went to that welding supply web
Can anyone confirm if this is the correct size of nut? 

CO-2NutBrass, .830"-14 NGO, R.H. Female


Nipple size: CO-4NippleBrass, 1/4" NPT, 2-1/2" Long


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

herns said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> I went to that welding supply web
> ...


The western enterprise part number for a standard cga-320 brass nut is 'CO-2'. The normal 1/4npt 2-1/2" brass nipple is 'CO-4'.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

herns said:


> Is Burkert 6011 A model a Vinton or Buna seal?


Sorry man. I missed this question. 

The difference between the 6011 and 6011A is only the cleaning process. The 6011A is manufactured in clean room conditions while the 6011 is not. You could have a Vinton or Buna seals on either.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> Sorry man. I missed this question.
> 
> The difference between the 6011 and 6011A is only the cleaning process. The 6011A is manufactured in clean room conditions while the 6011 is not. You could have a Vinton or Buna seals on either.


I am pretty sure the 6011A is only 24VDC. 

The 6011 comes in 24VDC as well as other voltages (110VAC, 230VAC)


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Darkblade48 said:


> I am pretty sure the 6011A is only 24VDC.
> 
> The 6011 comes in 24VDC as well as other voltages (110VAC, 230VAC)


You sir are correct. The 6011A only comes in 24vdc and 230vac. No 110.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

oldpunk78 said:


> You sir are correct. The 6011A only comes in 24vdc and 230vac. No 110.


Yeah, looking through the .pdf, there doesn't seem to be a 110v variety. But there's also no mention of NPT ports (unless I missed something). So who knows?


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> The western enterprise part number for a standard cga-320 brass nut is 'CO-2'. The normal 1/4npt 2-1/2" brass nipple is 'CO-4'.


This nut does not have 'CO-2' part number.
Is this the correct piece? I just want to make sure.


*CGA-320*


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

herns said:


> This nut does not have 'CO-2' part number.
> Is this the correct piece? I just want to make sure.
> 
> 
> *CGA-320*


Yup. That's it.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

25 minutes from start to finish.



































































































































































WOOT! WOOT!!

I still have to wire the solenoid. I post more pics later.


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## ProndFarms (Sep 3, 2012)

oldpunk78 said:


> Well here you go then.
> 
> Pretty simple really. All you have to do is use Clippard part # ET-C48 and a run of the mill AC adapter.


As soon as I have I think all of the parts for my build something like this comes along! VERY clean looking.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

ProndFarms said:


> As soon as I have I think all of the parts for my build something like this comes along! VERY clean looking.


The trick is to use as few parts as possible and only use high quality parts.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

All wired up and ready to try out. (White so it matches the mp10 controller  )










I also just put this mini together:


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

Good job, Josh!:thumbsup:


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> I had about an hour this afternoon to mess around with a couple regs. Finished this one up:
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Hey Josh,

I like the way you place the Ideal Valve so that it is parallel to the floor. How did you do that?

I have Victor 253A-320 with the same port outlet at 6 O'clock but the Ideal valve was angled upward.

I understand the way you placed the burkert is different than my set up but if I re assembled the same way you did, I think it would still look the same. Could it be the bushing?

Take a look.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

herns said:


> Hey Josh,
> 
> I like the way you place the Ideal Valve so that it is parallel to the floor. How did you do that?
> 
> ...


If you have a 1/4 x 1/8 reducing bushing in there, all you would have to do is move the solenoid to the reducing bushing and move the elbow to the other side of the solenoid. I don't think the bubble counter would fit in there anymore if you did that though.


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> ... I don't think the bubble counter would fit in there anymore if you did that though.



I see. It would be too close w/ the gauge or the body of the reg.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

You could add a 45 degree elbow if you want to keep the bubble counter and the Ideal valve level. Like this:


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

I think that's the piece I need from you!

Thanks.


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> You could add a 45 degree elbow if you want to keep the bubble counter and the Ideal valve level. Like this:


Josh,

What size of 45 angle to look for?
Is that 1/8"?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

herns said:


> Josh,
> 
> What size of 45 angle to look for?
> Is that 1/8"?


Yes, sir. 1/8npt, one male end, one female.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

Or you could just extend the output a little further straight out of the body before making the turn, or am I missing something? I feel like what you're talking about, I did with my personal VTS450, though I was able to fit two needle valves slightly behind the handle. Then again, the 450 is monstrous.

And a 90 degree turn should also work, instead of the 45. You can still come straight forward with the nv/bubble counter assembly at any point.

If you like the style of the 45, that works. But all of this honestly just takes a little bit of playing around, dry-fitting parts, to make it work.


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

kevmo911 said:


> If you like the style of the 45, that works. But all of this honestly just takes a little bit of playing around, dry-fitting parts, to make it work.


True.

I am more concerned mostly of the regulator aesthetics then the parts being used. Maybe it was influenced by the nature of my work.

Im just lazy to find fittings and design my own reg parts assembly. So, I just copy good looking regs Josh had built.


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## kevmo911 (Sep 24, 2010)

herns said:


> True.
> 
> I am more concerned mostly of the regulator aesthetics then the parts being used. Maybe it was influenced by the nature of my work.
> 
> Im just lazy to find fittings and design my own reg parts assembly. So, I just copy good looking regs Josh had built.


Fair enough. I do prefer to work with regs that have 9 o'clock outlets. Even 6 o'clock would be allright. 90-degree angles are much cleaner-looking, in my opinion. And so is chrome, though there will always be a special place in my heart for the VTS models.

On a different note, Josh, your hands are filthy, as well as pretty well sliced up! Mmm, the low, slow burn of Brasso in fresh cuts ...okay, I'm kinda morbid, sorry


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## clang (Jan 27, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> Yes, sir. 1/8npt, one male end, one female.


Here are a few to pick from. The Parker elbow is nice, but expensive.

*brass 1/8" NPT 45° street elbow pipe fitting*
http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Fittin...ipe+Fitting,+45+Degree+Street+Elbow,+1/8"+NPT
http://www.valleyhydraulic.com/store/pc/Brass-45-Angle-1-8-NPT-Street-Elbow-p1344.htm
http://www.suremarineservice.com/FIT-640.aspx
http://www.hosemanufacturing.com/in...art_num/FIT-45SEF18M18/45-street-elbow-18-npt
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Brass-Pipe-Fitting-6AYR8?Pid=search
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/Street-Elbow-6MP05?Pid=search
https://www.google.com/search?q=bra...Ia0GIim9gSRuIBY&ved=0CE0QsAQ&biw=1600&bih=706


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

clang said:


> Here are a few to pick from. The Parker elbow is nice, but expensive.
> 
> *brass 1/8" NPT 45° street elbow pipe fitting*
> http://www.amazon.com/Parker-Fittin...ipe+Fitting,+45+Degree+Street+Elbow,+1/8"+NPT
> ...



Hey Clang,
Thanks for putting these all, man.:thumbsup:


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## clang (Jan 27, 2011)

herns said:


> Hey Clang,
> Thanks for putting these all, man.:thumbsup:


I am very glad to help you, if I can.


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## Daryo (Apr 7, 2008)

I also just put this mini together:








[/QUOTE]

Hey Oldpunk,is this mini single or dual stage?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Daryo said:


> I also just put this mini together:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


single, but it is high quality industrial grade pressure regulator. from the picture it looks like a stainless steel, but not sure, oldpunk may provide you the info about the reg.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Daryo said:


> Hey Oldpunk,is this mini single or dual stage?


Bettatail is correct. (As always..) It's a single stage. I haven't been able to pick up any mini 2-stages in a while. And it the whole thing is brass. Some parts are just plated.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Darkblade48 said:


> I am pretty sure the 6011A is only 24VDC.
> 
> The 6011 comes in 24VDC as well as other voltages (110VAC, 230VAC)





oldpunk78 said:


> You sir are correct. The 6011A only comes in 24vdc and 230vac. No 110.


We both seen to be incorrect here. Check this out:










I happen to have a 120VAC 6011 'A' and didn't even notice. lol


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

Intriguing! All the 6011As that I have seen so far are 24 VDC...


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Every once in a while, you'll hear me say that I prefer brass over stainless. Here's why:










Well, at least I have a spare solenoid coil now.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

SS is hard, torque control is necessary when assemble.

You can get a 1/8 npt die to fix the broken threads, only the first two threads are broken so that elbow still be ok once it is fixed.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> SS is hard, torque control is necessary when assemble.
> 
> You can get a 1/8 npt die to fix the broken threads, only the first two threads are broken so that elbow still be ok once it is fixed.


Piss on the elbow. I'm miffed over the solenoid body. Oh well. 

Ya, I must not know my own strength sometimes. One second, everything was nice and slippy and the next it got grindy. I've noticed some parts manufactures use a slightly different taper than others. This was my first experience with Superlok. Their taper is a bit steeper than most. More tape/lube is needed.


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## ua hua (Oct 30, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Piss on the elbow. I'm miffed over the solenoid body. Oh well.
> 
> Ya, I must not know my own strength sometimes. One second, everything was nice and slippy and the next it got grindy. I've noticed some parts manufactures use a slightly different taper than others. This was my first experience with Superlok. Their taper is a bit steeper than most. More tape/lube is needed.


I'm glad you posted this as I have a Superlok SS-4HLN-2.00 Nipple and a SS-2-ME elbow because I couldn't get those two fittings in Swagelok. So now I know I need to use a little more thread tape on those fittings and not crank down quite so hard. Very informative thread.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Piss on the elbow. I'm miffed over the solenoid body. Oh well.
> 
> Ya, I must not know my own strength sometimes. One second, everything was nice and slippy and the next it got grindy. I've noticed some parts manufactures use a slightly different taper than others. This was my first experience with Superlok. Their taper is a bit steeper than most. More tape/lube is needed.


are you sure the superlok are 1/8" npt? not 1/8" BST? from the picture I don't see the angle of the threads the same as 1/8" npt, kind of straight as BST.

BTW, some 1/8" npt fittings have different standard of teeth(single thread) angle, you can find more info on swagelok official fittings manual.


----------



## ua hua (Oct 30, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> are you sure the superlok are 1/8" npt? not 1/8" BST? from the picture I don't see the angle of the threads the same as 1/8" npt, kind of straight as BST.
> 
> BTW, some 1/8" npt fittings have different standard of teeth(single thread) angle, you can find more info on swagelok official fittings manual.


This really got me thinking so I had to go check the fittings I bought. The Superlok fittings I bought are in fact 1/8" and 1/4" mnpt fittings. I'm not sure what oldpunk has but I would assume there the same.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Ya, I'm sure the parts I used were npt. Just too much torque and not enough tape on my part.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Not sure if I shared these or not :/


----------



## manzpants92 (Dec 6, 2012)

how much on average does it cost you to put one of these together?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

manzpants92 said:


> how much on average does it cost you to put one of these together?


I have spent anywhere between $75-$500 on a single complete regulator. I would say the avarage probably works out too around $225. My avarage is really skewed though. The last time I was patient and made myself one, I spent about $160 which included a brand new reg and a stainless post body.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

if only count the total of the raw material, my cost is low

the regulator price is pretty open, you have to be lucky to pick up a nice one for low price, majority is around $50-$100.

the good solenoid, and the good metering valve, with good price, most of the time, are pure luck.

started from last couple month, there were the Burkert 2822 and the Parker Hannifin H3L, really good parts/deals both showed up at the same time. put the msg out there so everyone would have a chance to get them, an opportunity that won't show up again in years..

now the burkert 2822 are gone, it will be hard to find a good solenoid and cost will go up.

Still have enough good solenoids to build,


----------



## manzpants92 (Dec 6, 2012)

Very cool. I think i may just buy a regulator to start cause this will be my first. Then maybe after that ill consider putting one together myself


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## bigd603 (May 10, 2011)

Manzpants, search for ebay item #271129947466, they're selling a Swagelok B-SS4 metering valve for $30 including free shipping. They sell for $95 directly from Swagelok.

Here's the link for the B-SS4 on Swagelok's site for more tech info:
http://swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-SS4&item=


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

What is the model for the Swagelok B-SS4-VH, but with the metering handle on the side so you could do a top mount bubble counter.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

B-ss4-a-vh


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

bigd603 said:


> Manzpants, search for ebay item #271129947466, they're selling a Swagelok B-SS4 metering valve for $30 including free shipping. They sell for $95 directly from Swagelok.
> 
> Here's the link for the B-SS4 on Swagelok's site for more tech info:
> http://swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-SS4&item=


Note that if you want to use this, you will need 1/4" Swagelok to 1/8" NPT fittings.


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

Where can I buy that I can not find that online


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

sbarbee54 said:


> Where can I buy that I can not find that online
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


What?


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

B-ss4-a-vh. Where can I buy one I cannot find one online e for sale


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## Mostro (Aug 26, 2012)

oldpunk78 said:


> Not sure if I shared these or not :/


Yeah... that's a sweet build...well done sir. I have the same Parker MV and Burkert solenoid as pictured (as do dozens of PT members I'm sure LOL) but still need the SS parts to kit it together. Very nice assembly. I like the reducing elbow, it seems the perfect part. Perhaps a shorter 1/4" nipple... if the AC wires from the solenoid allow for it.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

sbarbee54 said:


> B-ss4-a-vh. Where can I buy one I cannot find one online e for sale


That's something you either have to wait and be patient for on eBay or just order it new from Swagelok. 


Mostro said:


> Yeah... that's a sweet build...well done sir. I have the same Parker MV and Burkert solenoid as pictured (as do dozens of PT members I'm sure LOL) but still need the SS parts to kit it together. Very nice assembly. I like the reducing elbow, it seems the perfect part. Perhaps a shorter 1/4" nipple... if the AC wires from the solenoid allow for it.


Thank you 

I actually like the proportions better with the 2" long nipple. Here's a pic from the front of my regulator:










The Parker at the bottom of that group of pics actually has the 1-1/2" long nipple you're talking about:


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

ha
Burkert 2822, I believe it is no more.

some of the recently build systems are in this album, enjoy.
http://s817.beta.photobucket.com/user/bettatail/library/CO2 pressurized system 2?
pass: tptvip


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

sbarbee54 said:


> B-ss4-a-vh. Where can I buy one I cannot find one online e for sale
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


a new concoa 212 is around $300 retail, but other chrome plated similar double stage, are $500+ retail, that is why I choose shinny 212 only at low price, if it is too much, I skip it.

the swagelok angle pattern metering valve, there are actually plenty, but with a vernier handle, is kind of rare, the vernier handle alone is $20 from swagelok.

pm'ed, some of the right metering valves on evil bay.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Here's an interesting project. 










A VCR ported Parker Veriflo IR6000 series.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

^ Well, I have all the parts in except the cga-320 stuff. Got all the vcr fittings and gaskets and adapters and stuff. I know there are cga parts floating around out there with vcr ends. lol - I have no idea where to look for them though. I just I'll just have to bite the bullet and use a regular npt version. :'(


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Josh, let me know if you need anything for you VCR regulator(before you order them from swagelok), I have VCR connectors/adapters, VCR pressure gauges, isolation valve(solenoid exclusive for VCR, but not call a "solenoid" anymore), VCR check valve, and a couple different models of metering valves in VCR connection.

The VCR ported CGA320 stem is a special order item, will at least double what you paid for the Parker regulator.
you can use a VCR to 1/4" npt female adapter, so hook it up to the CGA 320 stem.

I am building a stand for my 168G planted tank currently(and my first priority, the old particle board stand is about to crumble) , once it is done, the next project is semi-auto water change system and the 55G sump system, then will be a vacuum connection co2 system, mounted under the stand.
need to put the Chell mechanical precision needle valve into use, it is VCR connection


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## creekbottom (Apr 5, 2012)

Ok, regulator gurus... I've been reading and following, and reading and forgetting... I just made my first regulator this weekend but it's a single stage victor. I'm already looking for a dual stage. BUT seeing as ebay is a quagmire here are some questions.

1) What type of regulator is useful for us? (I know this is a huge question, read on) Obviously a CO2 reg will work, what about oxygen, or acetylene, inert gas, nitrogen, argon?

2) Can the connection be changed from one to another? Lots of them come with something other than CGA 320.

3) What about pressure range? Lots will list 0-4000psi and 0-100 psi. So that's high and low sides of the regulator but does the regulator itself decide those pressures or can you just change the gauges to whatever you want?

4) Is brand name important? This might be better answered with a 'what to stay away from.'

Thanks guys, I've really enjoyed learning all this stuff. Keep going with all those shiny new regulators!


----------



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

creekbottom said:


> Ok, regulator gurus... I've been reading and following, and reading and forgetting... I just made my first regulator this weekend but it's a single stage victor. I'm already looking for a dual stage. BUT seeing as ebay is a quagmire here are some questions.
> 
> 1) What type of regulator is useful for us? (I know this is a huge question, read on) Obviously a CO2 reg will work, what about oxygen, or acetylene, inert gas, nitrogen, argon?
> 
> ...


well, I refuse to answer because the answer will be pages long, so my best advice is to keep reading.

just kidding, wait for my pm, will show you the direction on what and where to get.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)




----------



## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

creekbottom said:


> 1) What type of regulator is useful for us? (I know this is a huge question, read on) Obviously a CO2 reg will work, what about oxygen, or acetylene, inert gas, nitrogen, argon?


CO2 and inert gases are the usual regulators to look into. 



creekbottom said:


> 2) Can the connection be changed from one to another? Lots of them come with something other than CGA 320.


Yes.



creekbottom said:


> 3) What about pressure range? Lots will list 0-4000psi and 0-100 psi. So that's high and low sides of the regulator but does the regulator itself decide those pressures or can you just change the gauges to whatever you want?


Changing the gauges will change the range at which the pressures can be read, but will not change the (say) delivery pressure. 

An analogy is changing the speedometer on your car. If you change it to a range from 0 to 500 km/hr, it does not mean your car's engine can go that fast 



creekbottom said:


> 4) Is brand name important? This might be better answered with a 'what to stay away from.'


Not really. The usual brands make sturdy industrial regulators that are often more than what we need for our hobby.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

That first pic is terrible...










I've gotta admit, these Parkers are my new favorites. The machine work on these things is just tremendous.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Finished up my first 10 output regulator this evening.


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

What needle valves are you using on that manifold?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Those are SMC AS1200.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Stainless Concoa:










Stainless Swagelok:


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

So... I'm about to build another parker ir6000. I'm trying to keep the whole thing parker if possible this time which means I need to source a low wattage, stainless parker solenoid. Anyone have any input for me? 

I just don't have a lot of time to search anymore and I don't know of any yet..


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## sbarbee54 (Jan 12, 2012)

No but can it buy parts from you like everything you used in the concoa build above, but the solenoid and metering valve I have that I just need all the others to finish my build of a new concoa 212


Sent from my iPad 3 using Tapatalk HD


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Sorry, selling parts isn't something I offer unless I have extra stuff sitting around.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

You're looking for the 201LG1 Series - 1/8"G, the only two that has low wattage is in 2.0W and 2.5W


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> You're looking for the 201LG1 Series - 1/8"G, the only two that has low wattage is in 2.0W and 2.5W


Thank you! I'm going to have my maintenance manager put one of those on order for me. 

I pretty much have access to anything parker at work but digging through that monster book really sucks. It's way easier to just give my friend a part number and have it included in an order.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Always wanted a Concoa 212 or 312, close enough I say. 










Who brought the red one? I wanted that one. I'm missing one part, had to use an old DICI needle valve to do the test. *Finger cross.

Edit: So the one piece that is usually unless in a build, the one piece that people toss aside, the one piece I needed to work for my inline, did not work. Manual on/off, curse you!


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Well.... Budwiser told me to just order the gauges i wanted. 

My next project should include:

a stainless Parker regulator
all Parker stainless pipe fittings
a stainless 2w solenoid
a stainless angle version metering valve with vernier handle
and some really sweat wika gauges that you don't see very often

wish me luck. It's been a while since I put one together. .


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Stupid USPS. They broke my 3000 psi gauge. 3 more business days. ..


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

The seller has to pack it in a better way to protect it.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

For sure.


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## Mathman (Apr 5, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Stupid USPS. They broke my 3000 psi gauge. 3 more business days. ..



Tough luck Josh. I would hate for this to happen to me. I am assuming that the seller will send you a new one?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Ya. It was from amazon so really easy exchange.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

are those gauge look nice? Amazon only use stock photo. wonder how the really thing looks like.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I'll take a chappy pic when I get home. When it comes to customizing these things, we all like what we like. I might love them, you might hate them...


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> I had about an hour this afternoon to mess around with a couple regs. Finished this one up:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Your son has the classic Nintendo. That's awesome. I love playing classic games. It reminds me of my childhood. 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> What has two thumbs and likes a solid stainless regulator?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


This is my favorite system out of all the systems you built.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

flowerfishs said:


> are those gauge look nice? Amazon only use stock photo. wonder how the really thing looks like.


Pic as promised:












AlanLe said:


> Your son has the classic Nintendo. That's awesome. I love playing classic games. It reminds me of my childhood.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


That's not his. That was mine from the 80's. Grandma finally made me take it home. 


AlanLe said:


> This is my favorite system out of all the systems you built.
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


Mine too. I'm going to try to improve on it if I can on my next one. Improve might not be the right word. Just out of curiosity, you wouldn't happen to have a 2" ss nut and nipple you'd want to trade for a 2 1/2" one would you?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

I have 1 set but it's 2.5". With the 2", I find it's hard to mount the system on the those cylinders that have the handle. 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Pic as promised:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


 

thanks for the picture. The filled one is nice.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

The filled one is 2 1/2" (63mm). They're kind of a pain in the butt in my opinion.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> The filled one is 2 1/2" (63mm). They're kind of a pain in the butt in my opinion.


 
you don't like the 2.5" gauge?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

flowerfishs said:


> you don't like the 2.5" gauge?


I do. Just not the filled ones so much. The ambient temperature affects the reading a little. And on some regs, they just look too big sometimes. 


Mathman said:


> Oops. Wrong thread.


Nicely done regardless.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

It's funny (not literally) sometimes how regulator builds go when using used regulators. Sometimes you put one together and you can do no wrong. Every once in a while, everything goes wrong. Parts show up wrong. Things get screwed up during shipping. And sometimes you just get screwed. 

This afternoon I was removing the low pressure gauge from a ir6000. I should have figured to just leave the gauges alone after breaking my favorite crescent wrench trying to remove it. After putting a bigger wrench on the thing, it became very clear that whoever assembled the darn thing didn't use enough tape on the lower threads. I guess I had it coming though. I've gotten really lucky on every ss build I've done so far. That ir6000 would have been fine if I hadn't wanted to improve the gauges. At least I only had 50 into the reg itself. 

I guess the lesson learned here would have been to just leave well enough alone.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Pics? Maybe it still could be save, are the threads completely strip? Maybe you can use some hardening adhesive and position the gauge where you want it. Then let it dry and just never take that gauge off again. 

Could be worse, I dropped 100 bucks on a door stop (DICI regulator) hahahh


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

The threads are still there. They're just marred pretty good. I'm going to try and run a tap into them and see if can be be cleaned up at all. As it sits, you can only get the gauge roughly a 1/2 turn in before it locks up. We will see. 

I did manage to find a replacement though. Someone took my offer of 50 bucks on a new 3810 last night. Too bad it's like the exact opposite of what I wanted (big and heavy vs. Small and light.)


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Nice score! Stainless steel version of mine, and yeah it is really heavy and big. Imagine the 3810 with 2.5inch gauges instead of the 2inch standard one. 

How small is the Parker compare to the small Victor? HPT-100 is the model number, I think?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Nice score! Stainless steel version of mine, and yeah it is really heavy and big. Imagine the 3810 with 2.5inch gauges instead of the 2inch standard one.
> 
> How small is the Parker compare to the small Victor? HPT-100 is the model number, I think?


The veriflo 6000 series is similar in size to the older stg500. I haven't held one in my hands but I think the hpt100 is a bit smaller.

edit - you know what? I have a 312 on hand. I'll take a pic of the 2 side by side when I get a chance. 

Over the years, I've had terrible luck with mathesons. I have no idea why to be honest. Wish me luck.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> How small is the Parker compare to the small Victor? HPT-100 is the model number, I think?


Not a side by side but maybe my hand is enough to show the size. Oh, and I fixed the threads. Woot, Woot!!


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## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> edit - you know what? I have a 312 on hand. I'll take a pic of the 2 side by side when I get a chance.


Is it smaller then than the 312? 

I have a 312 and love it because it's so compact / small.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

exv152 said:


> Is it smaller then than the 312?
> 
> I have a 312 and love it because it's so compact / small.


Ok, I found the 312.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Not a side by side but maybe my hand is enough to show the size. Oh, and I fixed the threads. Woot, Woot!!


 
That's a very compact size. I like it too. why do you change out the original gauge?


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## jrman83 (Nov 22, 2010)

Looks compact in length but not girth. 312 Looks like a 332.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

flowerfishs said:


> That's a very compact size. I like it too. why do you change out the original gauge?


Here's a pic of a full size matheson. That's the size size the gauges were when I got it:








Well... In my opinion, the generic gauges that come in this really kind of dwarf the the thing. I like the smaller ones. It's just a personal preference thing I guess.


jrman83 said:


> Looks compact in length but not girth. 312 Looks like a 332.


It's lighter than the 312 and with the gauges I put on it, it's a little shorter too. It is a 312. They look very similar. The quickest way to tell the difference in a pic is to look at the gauges. A factory 332 will have stainless showing inside as where the brass version will have brass rivets showing.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

For me, the 2" gauge looks better than the 2.5". it's just a little too big.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

flowerfishs said:


> For me, the 2" gauge looks better than the 2.5". it's just a little too big.


They're actually going in order there. Left to right, 2" - 2 1/4" - 2 1/2"+.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Oh that sick! I didn't realize how small the IR6000 is, the Matheson gauges are almost the size of the regualtor. I got those over sized Micky Mouse ears Gauges on my Matheson too, 2.5inch. 

What post body are you hooking up to the IR6000?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

I am going with a 2" long nipple, a reducing street elbow, a 2w burkert solenoid, a male elbow and then a stainless ideal valve with a tube fitting. Should be solid.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

And it's together. Still have to wire the solenoid though.


----------



## charlie 1 (Oct 22, 2006)

oldpunk78 said:


> And it's together. Still have to wire the solenoid though.


AWESOME :bounce::bounce:


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Nice, but I was like the all stainless steel parker idea. What about that angle HR3 you were planning to get?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

charlie 1 said:


> AWESOME :bounce::bounce:


Thanks!


FlyingHellFish said:


> Nice, but I was like the all stainless steel parker idea. What about that angle HR3 you were planning to get?


Oddly enough, I just the other day had some help finding a solenoid and bettatail did offer an angle pattern Parker valve. I passed on using both. I didn't want to mess around with adapters for the parker valve and don't have the solenoid yet. I'll do it some day. I had the V54-1-12 on hand and really like the it all looks and went together. I still haven't tested this yet so it might all end up on a matheson anyway.


----------



## jrman83 (Nov 22, 2010)

Nice!


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Beautiful, very high end components, especially the rig. I got a question though, and it's a silly question.

How come people don't like to line up their metering valve to the outlet and inlet ports? I know it makes no difference, but everyone seem to follow this trend of having the needle valve lower. 










Am I the only one who likes to have everything level out?


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Naw man. You're not the only one.










It really depends on the application. Sometimes, less is more. Most often for me though, I prefer the Mattf, 90 degree version.


----------



## Mathman (Apr 5, 2009)

I personally like a linear look too:










~Cristian


----------



## AaronT (Apr 11, 2004)

oldpunk78 said:


> And it's together. Still have to wire the solenoid though.


I like it. How come such a long nipple though? Seems like you could have used a shorter one and tucked it in a little closer or was it just a matter of parts on hand?


----------



## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

I prefer the linear build too.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

AaronT said:


> I like it. How come such a long nipple though? Seems like you could have used a shorter one and tucked it in a little closer or was it just a matter of parts on hand?


Because I like being able to take the solenoid apart without disassembling the post body.


----------



## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Josh, you should of taken a picture of yourself pointing at the nipple with a certain finger. 

I know a thread that might inspire you.


----------



## AaronT (Apr 11, 2004)

oldpunk78 said:


> Because I like being able to take the solenoid apart without disassembling the post body.


That's too much forethought for me.  Good thinking.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

@ hell fish, 

Right :/


----------



## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Ok, I found the 312.


Nice, the body is so short it's hard to believe it's even a dual stage.


----------



## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Because I like being able to take the solenoid apart without disassembling the post body.


 
That's wthat I though. It has 4 screws on the back and doesn't like the newer one has the hex nut.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

flowerfishs said:


> That's wthat I though. It has 4 screws on the back and doesn't like the newer one has the hex nut.


This isn't a 6011. There's no nut holding the coil on. It's a burkert 2822, only 2w. Not so much heat. No accidental coil buzz.


----------



## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> This isn't a 6011. There's no nut holding the coil on. It's a burkert 2822, only 2w. Not so much heat. No accidental coil buzz.


 
I know this isn't a 6011. :icon_smil


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> It's funny (not literally) sometimes how regulator builds go when using used regulators. Sometimes you put one together and you can do no wrong. Every once in a while, everything goes wrong. Parts show up wrong. Things get screwed up during shipping. And sometimes you just get screwed.
> 
> This afternoon I was removing the low pressure gauge from a ir6000. I should have figured to just leave the gauges alone after breaking my favorite crescent wrench trying to remove it. After putting a bigger wrench on the thing, it became very clear that whoever assembled the darn thing didn't use enough tape on the lower threads. I guess I had it coming though. I've gotten really lucky on every ss build I've done so far. That ir6000 would have been fine if I hadn't wanted to improve the gauges. At least I only had 50 into the reg itself.
> 
> I guess the lesson learned here would have been to just leave well enough alone.


Well holy crap. I finally tested the thing today and wouldn't you believe I actually fixed it.

It took 2 hrs of very slowly working the tap into those threads to remove the rough spots. 

I had been previously told that this was impossible and couldn't be done. I think that people just say that a ss regulator is trash after some threads get marred because regulator repair places don't want to take the time to do it. I guess if the threads had actually been broken that ya, it would have had to go in the trash. Anyway, my tap collection is bigger now and I have some satisfaction in the fact that I fixed something.


----------



## AaronT (Apr 11, 2004)

oldpunk78 said:


> Well holy crap. I finally tested the thing today and wouldn't you believe I actually fixed it.
> 
> It took 2 hrs of very slowly working the tap into those threads to remove the rough spots.
> 
> I had been previously told that this was impossible and couldn't be done. I think that people just say that a ss regulator is trash after some threads get marred because regulator repair places don't want to take the time to do it. I guess if the threads had actually been broken that ya, it would have had to go in the trash. Anyway, my tap collection is bigger now and I have some satisfaction in the fact that I fixed something.


Nicely done. I'm curious how you lubricated it? I'm picturing oil and shavings falling down into the regulator. Upside down?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

AaronT said:


> Nicely done. I'm curious how you lubricated it? I'm picturing oil and shavings falling down into the regulator. Upside down?


I whittled down a piece of a rubber stopper and forced it into the port opening. It was hard to remove but it kept any debris/cutting fluid out. I guess I could have just kept it turned upside down but you know Murphys law and all that. Haha


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## AaronT (Apr 11, 2004)

oldpunk78 said:


> I whittled down a piece of a rubber stopper and forced it into the port opening. It was hard to remove but it kept any debris/cutting fluid out. I guess I could have just kept it turned upside down but you know Murphys law and all that. Haha


Good idea.  Did you use one of those bottoming taps too?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

AaronT said:


> Good idea.  Did you use one of those bottoming taps too?


To be honest, that term is something I never looked into. The tap set I bought are all flat on the bottom(seemed like it fit the existing hole perfectly...) and when I reached the bottom of the port, it it cut right around the bottom of the port at the outer edges.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

So the previous owner didn't use enough teflon for the lower threads causing it to jam? Or did the previous owner tighten it with so much force the threads jam together?

I would think you would need to constantly check it for leaks, no telling how well those tap threads will hold up. Say you wanted to do 50 psi and higher, wouldn't there be more stress on those threads?

I guess you can always use blue loc-rite and just never take the gauge off again.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> So the previous owner didn't use enough teflon for the lower threads causing it to jam? Or did the previous owner tighten it with so much force the threads jam together?
> 
> I would think you would need to constantly check it for leaks, no telling how well those tap threads will hold up. Say you wanted to do 50 psi and higher, wouldn't there be more stress on those threads?
> 
> I guess you can always use blue loc-rite and just never take the gauge off again.


Not the previous owner so much as the person who assembled it for airgas. They didn't get enough tape on the lower section of the threads. It was a factory error. If it's sealed, it's sealed. It's not just going to change all of a sudden. I tested it at 34psi. That's as high as this reg went. It held pressure and did not bleed off. No bubbles. Nothing at all.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

This one went much smoother.










Rebranded by Scott Specialty Gases but I happened to have a Matheson knob so I changed it out. I'm going to find a plug connector today so I can use the factory plug end from the DC adapter.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

The plug connectors are an awesome idea, I want to do one for my solenoid as well. Do they sell them pre cut? I might just buy a new adapter for the male end, where do you get the female end?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

A high school friend of mine owns an electronics shop. I usually just git up Bill when I need any type of connection like this. I'm sure ebay or any other 100 Web businesses sell them.

Finished product:


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

The plug in solenoid makes the build look very clean!


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> The plug in solenoid makes the build look very clean!


Well, personally I think just soldering and heat shrinking and omitting the connection look better but this is better function wise. All you have to do when changing a cylinder is unplug the solenoid and loosen the tube fitting.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

I like the fact that you can disconnect the solenoid and not have to carry the adapter around. And that grey adjustment knob fits perfectly with the silver colour scheme. Why do they change the colour? I seen red, black and white 312 Concoa handles, do they change it base on year?


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