# Can too much CO2 promote BBA and Green Algae?



## Fat Guy (Nov 19, 2003)

Can too much CO2 promote BBA and Green Algae?

I'm getting some green algae on my glass that shows up every 5 days.

Here's me specs:

Nitrate: 15ppm (just increased nitrate from 10-15and decreased phosphate from 1 to .5 to see if that would do something to combat the algae).

Lighting: 110 watts

Tank: 29g

Phosphate: .5ppm

Potassium: 20ppm

CO2: 30ppm

Micros: Kent's Iron Daily

KH: 4

GH: 4

Water changes every 7 days.

I'm curious about CO2 because when I had DIY hagen system, my CO2 was probably about 15ppm

and my nitrate levels I kept at 10ppm, my phosphate at 1, potassium at 20ppm. Back then, I was pretty much algae free.

Once I upped the co2 levels by going pressurized, I started to get more green algae on the glass and some BBA popping up in random places.

Could increasing co2 from 15 to 30 ppm promote algae?

Anybody? Buehler? Buehler?


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## 2la (Aug 18, 2002)

Doubt it. Most people report _sub_optimal CO2 causing some algae (my algae was reduced when I switched to pressurized, FWIW); IMO it is simply a matter of regaining the balance you once had now that you've upped the CO2. Make sure your dosing of traces increases and the lights aren't too old.


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## Fat Guy (Nov 19, 2003)

Thanks 2la

I did some serious reaquascaping which may be a main reason for the sudden green algae bloom on the glass. Interesting enough the BBA shows up on the driftwood, which, I actually don't mind at all, however, as time passes, I notice that bba has found it's way onto some of the leaves of my alternanthera reinickii.

It may be that I've changed the layout of my plants so often that the plants have not resettled in the aquarium. I hope that if I don't touch for about a month with the new layout, then the tank may re-obtain its initial balance. 

My KH today was 4, and my pH was around 6.5 today which should give me roughly 38ppm (which may be a little on the high side).

In any case, I think I'm just going to stick to my dosing routine- dosing when necessary, and see what happens in the month.

I've got Kent fe supplement, which I dose 5ml daily. I also have flourish, but I'm not sure if I should make the switch because my Alternanthera R. seems to really enjoy the fe addition which gives it some spectacular red coloration.

Again,

Thanks For the help.


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## rumples riot (May 29, 2003)

I have to agree, I doubt that too much CO2 will lead to those algae, I have green algae also, and a few clumps of BBA on the outlets of my filters.


Paul


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## Bee-randon (Nov 16, 2010)

*I think it can*

I have had green algae growing on the glass of my 55 gallon for about a few months and green water algae growing in my 10 gallon for the same amount of time. Both tanks running off a 20 lbs bottle. I upped the co2 to try to eliminate the algae but my efforts had no effect. Now that my co2 is running out, both tanks with green algae on glass and green water are disappearing. There is no co2 going into both tanks and disappearing at a fast rate. Try to turn down the co2 for a week and see what happens. You never know til you try. Good luck!


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

wow that is a lot of light for a 29 gallon tank. GSA usually has to run it's course in an aquarium. If you wipe it away it'll just float around for a while then attach to the glass again. Just wait about 3 weeks for the algae to run its course then give it a good scrub and large water change and it should go away.

I don't think high co2 levels would be a source of algae.


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## sewingalot (Oct 12, 2008)

Rockhoe14er said:


> wow that is a lot of light for a 29 gallon tank. GSA usually has to run it's course in an aquarium. If you wipe it away it'll just float around for a while then attach to the glass again. Just wait about 3 weeks for the algae to run its course then give it a good scrub and large water change and it should go away.
> 
> I don't think high co2 levels would be a source of algae.


I think you may be thinking of Green Dust Algae, not Green Spot Algae.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

sewingalot said:


> I think you may be thinking of Green Dust Algae, not Green Spot Algae.


yeah i was. I thought that's what the op had. I guess it could be GSA i assumed because usually when i think of algae on the glass i think of GDA not GSA. even though both can be present on the glass. 

How are your phosphate levels?


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

I would increase the phosphate dosing to at least 2 ppm and reduce or raise the lighting if possible. Reducing ferts does not help reduce algae. You cannot starve algae, it will thrive on the most minimal nutrients so, you might as well make sure your plants have plenty. Reducing lighting will help with stabilizing the CO2 and fert requirements of the plants. You might reduce your lighting period to 7 or 8 hours as well.


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## captain_bu (Oct 20, 2007)

110 watts of what kind of light? Number is meaningless without qualification but regardless of the type it sounds like more light than you need.

When do a lot of re-scaping or make disturbances to the substrate you should do a large water change too to remove any ammonia or other organics released from the substrate. That could be what is responsible for your algae bloom an imbalance in nutrients coupled with low or inconsistent CO2 may be just helping it along.

Algae likes CO2 as much as plants do but if you increase your nutrient levels to keep up with any increases in CO2 your plants will stay healthy. Tanks with healthy growing plants have less problems with algae. You lost the balance you previously had and need to restore it so the plants once again have the upper hand.

Suggest you pick up a cheap drop-checker (plus some 4 dKH water) and use it to confirm your CO2 levels. The pH KH relationship chart is not always the best way to check it. Never assume your CO2 is good even if the drop checker and chart say it is.

Agree that the more you play around with your tank and uproot plants the longer it is going to take for them to settle in and do well.

Also agree with hobsman's post...


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## reefserver77 (Mar 23, 2011)

*Question about Bad Carbon leading to Algae*

This is the read out on my tests concerning my reef, and I have narrowed down the problem yet need technical input on what is going on.

Ammonia: 0.024 ppm
Nitrates: 2.5 mg/L
Nitrites: 0.0
Calcium: 400 ppm
Phosphates: 0.0 ppm
ph: 8.4 to 8.5
salinity: 34

I was researching that Silica causes a protective coating on Brown Algae, and I did have some spots for about 5 days in my tank 29gal. That was normal, yet what followed was like a green dust algae growing at an enormous rate where within hours of cleaning the tank, the fish looked like they were in London after a rainy day in the morn. Add flourescent green to the fog and that is how bad it was.

I researched this because the water change that followed was drastic and almost lost all life in tank. God blessed this tank by my corals surviving a 35% water change. Dangerous but worked.

It was actually my fault, my RO-DI filtered water needed the polishing filter (carbon filter) changed. I was not paying attention that I decreased the 3 month change to 2 months since I was curing live rock in the basement and filling a new tank at same time. So the carbon was bad in the RO filter, hence bad fresh RO water. Tank filter working overtime, constantly changing that carbon filter, since starting out with silica laced water anyways.

Added another turbo snail, along with 30% water change, changed 250 gal maximum use Polishing Filter for RO system, changed carbon filter in tank, changed protein skimmer filter, added Algaefix by Aquarium Pharmaceuticals (5ml), and a prayer.

My question is did I make a bad choice along the way, and is my assumption correct?


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