# Going to make a DIY spraybar, need some advice



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Surface agitation is not bad. It increases gas exchange which is beneficial as long as you are not trying to raise CO2 levels via injection. I am assuming from your post that you are not injecting CO2.

I would not combine the outputs of both canisters to one spraybar. This would lead to uneven back-pressure, especially if you have two very different canisters, and one of them does that on-off thing. Bad idea...

Spraybars in general reduce (distribute) current created in your tank. That is good if you have too much filter flow to start with, but if it is just adequate, and you plan on having a planted tank, it may lead to decreased circulation once these plants grow up. For that reason you see more of the regular nozzle/lily outflow pipes.

Another thing to consider is that a top spraybar is very visible, assuming you have it in the water, not above. If you don't care about aesthetics that's fine. I used spraybars placed at the bottom back, with the flow pointing forward/up. That way they are invisible, and this works okay until your jungle grows too dense and blocks the blowholes.

And lastly, again assuming your tank will be planted, think about currents and how they affect your plants. Some flexible plants like Vallisnerias and stem plants will bend according to the prevalent current.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I pretty much have to see the whole tank to get an idea of what works best and then I often have to try it. So this is just my general thoughts, okay? 
I'm not a big fan of spray bars as they tend to clog and be a maintenance nuisance for me. I like to have as little clutter as possible and the longer the outlet the more it shows for my thinking. From there I have taken the spraybars off my cans and just let the water flow, aiming them to move different parts of the water. My reactor fed, filter line goes down to the bottom, with a powerhead there to stir the output CO2 around the tank rather than just rising to the top to gas off. I like having current flowing in a somewhat round and round pattern. But then I always have large decor, Driftwood, rocks, etc. that disturb the flow. These are often the place where I hide my power heads. It gets them near the bottom to move that portion as well as hidden. 
I have very hard water and the small holes on spraybars were a constant cleaning job that I wanted to remove. 
Just my thoughts, others will have a different view.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

like this?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Something like that but I keep my intakes separated more so that anything kicked up off the bottom is somewhat more likely to get to one of the intakes before it settles back to the floor. But then it does matter a lot on what may be in the way. I don't really have a standard way of setting things because all my tanks are different. Many times it comes down to using things for a while and then when I see some area where debris settles, I need to move things a bit to get the debris moving on to the filters.


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## crazymittens (Jun 4, 2012)

Just wanted to say, excellent use of MSpaint and stock photos. I have learned something today.

Also, your last DIY spraybar option is exactly what another guy did (albeit from sump return pumps), and he found the flow to be less than ideal.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

Do you guys think half and half with the one side having constant flow and the other having ebb and flow would be better than doing a 4 foot spray bar across the back for the fluval and a 2 footer down one side for the eheim like a big L?


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## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

I used to have a spray bar for co2 only all along the back of a 125g. Overtime I found it detracted too much from the overall look of the tank, and removed it, and it was painted black like the background too, but I had too many folks comment on it. The less equipment you have in a tank the better imo.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I agree but isn't 1 large spray bay less than 2 other bright green eheim returns? That I'm using now? 
I saw a cool intake/ return thing on amazon that was a combo


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I wish I could find that pic I was thinking of, it looked like a marineland intake but had the return at the top of it


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## mark546 (Sep 12, 2013)

Personally I prefer the adjustable duck bill nozzles. You could get two of them and put them on one end of the tank one aimed high, one aimed lower both pointed to the intakes at the opposite end of the tank.

I really dislike spraybars. I find that they do not flow well most of the time, they are not adjustable. I like to be able to turn my nozzles and boom adjustment done. With a spraybar when I want to adjust the flow pattern i Have to cut something move something, drain a hose. It is ridiculous. Plus they never flow the way you want them to.

I would be kind of curious about a riparium type set-up with a rain plate return though. Would be kind of neat.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

like this?

Ok, I like this idea I think, as long as they don't flop around, how do I know what size will fit my green 
Large 16/22mm 5/8"
eheim tubbing?

and should I stagger one longer than the other or just point them.

Would be nice to get matching intakes too, although I ordered a mag prefilter for the end of the eheim


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## mark546 (Sep 12, 2013)

Yes, but those are too big you need the 5/8-3/4 ones. Mine are level with each other but one is pointed higher and one pointed lower. Works well for me. They dont move unless you physically move them.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I want to find some and matching intakes


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

I don't know if this is going to help you or not. What I did was to use a piece of 2" ABS pipe cut off square on one end (stuck into the gravel) and at a sharp angle at the other, more than 45*. I also cut a slit where I had measured the top of my gravel line to be. I had to experiment with the slit, length and the angle of the top of the pipe to get a good balance of water flow skimming the surface and also pulling off of the top of the gravel without causing the pump to cavitate. I was using a HOB filter and I put the inlet tube into the ABS pipe. Maybe you could do something like this as well. It did a good job of removing detritus from the bottom of the tank and an excellent job of skimming the surface.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

wait, so the intake is inside that tube?


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I have a hard time seeing where the inputs and outputs are in this pic:









I have been considering ordering 2 of these and scraping the spray bar idea








I don't know what a lily pipe is, is that a European term? Never heard of it before just now, does this u tube pipe do the same thing?

I'm thinking this is the right size for my green Large 16/22mm 5/8" eheim tubbing?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A7ZQVA6/ref=s9_psimh_gw_p199_d0_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=center-2&pf_rd_r=1341H58J4R65G2G8TJDS&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=1630072222&pf_rd_i=507846"]Amazon.com: U Tube Return 3/4" & 5/8" [Misc.]: Pet Supplies[/ame]









or I could use the eheim spraybars I have









or even put everything on the sides


















what would be best?

I don't use co2 now but might someday


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

solchitlins said:


> wait, so the intake is inside that tube?


 Yes, that is correct. If you look at the first picture you can see it best. 
This is my old set up. I had two HOB filters one at each end of the tank. I used one for mechanical and one for bilogical filtering. I only had this skimmer tube set up on the one used for biological filtering.


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

I have 3/4" version of the return that you are considering in my sump filter. It is a pretty simple piece of equipment just hook it up and aim it where you want to go. At 950 GPH is has pretty good throw. Depending on your flow rate you may want to consider a smaller diameter return. Works kind of like a high pressure nozzle on a garden hose, tha same amount of water flows through it it just shoots further. 
My personal preference and recommendation would to put one output at each end of the tank directed diagonally, one sort of parallel to the waters surface aimed at it's opposite corner of the tank to provide some surface agitation (ripples) and the other pointed downward aiming at the furthest bottom corner of the tank. And both intakes in the center of the tank on each side of the cross brace. I believe you should have plenty of flow with those two filters without the powerheads.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I sealed it off in the middle with a rubber washer.
I figure this gives me room to tuck the intakes behind the spraybar

I also figure 7/64th bit = 33 holes
or
1/8 bit = 20 holes

look sound?

of course I haven't glued, painted or drilled anything yet


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

ccar2000 said:


> I don't know if this is going to help you or not. What I did was to use a piece of 2" ABS pipe cut off square on one end (stuck into the gravel) and at a sharp angle at the other, more than 45*. I also cut a slit where I had measured the top of my gravel line to be. I had to experiment with the slit, length and the angle of the top of the pipe to get a good balance of water flow skimming the surface and also pulling off of the top of the gravel without causing the pump to cavitate. I was using a HOB filter and I put the inlet tube into the ABS pipe. Maybe you could do something like this as well. It did a good job of removing detritus from the bottom of the tank and an excellent job of skimming the surface.
> View attachment 217033
> 
> 
> ...


do you have any info on how this works? I would like to suck the scuzz off the surface


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

solchitlins said:


> do you have any info on how this works? I would like to suck the scuzz off the surface


It works very similar to an overflow box. The inlet of the filter, in my case an HOB fits down into the piece of ABS pipe (you could use PVC but it is white.) As the filter draws water out of the pipe it sucks water off of the surface and as shown it the pictures from the lower slit at the gravel level. I had to experiment with the angle of the top cut and the amount of the lower slit to work with my waterline minimum and maximum heights. Are you following or can I explain it differently or something???


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I guess I just need to try it out, how do you know what angle and how big of a cut? 

also guys,









I'm building some intakes for my canisters and I was thinking I needed a 3/4" strainer to screw into this fitting, is that correct or would I need a inch strainer?

also I bought these threaded fittings for them, but now I see they make slip ones, so really I should return the fittings and just buy the 3/4" slip strainers?



3-4in Slip Overflow Suction Strainer Marine Saltwater Aquarium

thanks for any help

my plan is to do the one side with a prefilter sponge and put the other down the overflow pipe like we are talking about to skim the surface scum


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## HSA1255 (Apr 2, 2013)

I think that the previous comment is brilliant. I like that ccar2000 was able to concentrate the flow in two areas with a single out take. I personally have a smaller tank with two eheims but the premise of dead spots and debris from lots of plants is the same in many tanks. I have a lot of rock and my dead area was the bottom of the tank. That being said, I did not want a focused crazy flow. It would not have helped to keep the bottom clean anyhow because one line of strong current can easily be blocked by large objects/plants in a tank and I'm talking lots of rock in mine. In my opinion you need to identify where your dead spots are to fix the trouble spots in your tank. My solution was to put two spray bars together and place it at the bottom behind many of my large rocks. I attached this uber long soft spraying bar to the bigger eheim because I figured it's stronger, more water circulating (although diffused by running it such a long length) would ensure better flow at the bottom of my tank. I actually made the first section of mine by drilling holes in some other eheim parts... and I drilled the holes at the beginning of the bar farther apart to increase the odds of better pressure at the end of the line. The holes point out and slightly up at a very small angle. This solved my problem and I have really noticed a difference. I do clean and maintain this tank more than I use to because I have shrimp in there, but even with weekly cleanings I had too much junk at the bottom. Cleanings are easier now. I did check my canister filters each week for awhile to make sure they were not gunked up. Everything just runs better now, but I understand that many do not like spray bars at the substrate. I don't see it though, and it helps keep the tank clean so I'm happy with the results. My long spray bar contraption begins at the left back corner and reaches 2/3 across the tank. I have the other out take attached to a short standard spray bar at the back right. This one is vertical to address better circulation in the middle level of the tank. It's current shoots diagonally to the front left. (I do not have skills to draw out this set up) but I'm trying to explain. I have shrimp and I wanted to address the agitation at the surface of the tank so I wedged in a small but powerful submersible powerhead with foam filter in the middle of the tank behind a rock. It is really close to the back wall and faces directly at the back wall. This way the flow breaks both left and right but does not beat my plants or shrimp up. It agitates the surface like a champ (sometimes too much for my liking if the tank goes too long without a top off) and it gives the shrimp additional feeding areas. 

I have pics of the 55 I did this on under my profile, but I doubt you can see anything except at the corners because my rock is a major factor in this tank. Had cichlids before and it just kinda transitioned into small schooling fish and shrimp... work in progress. I hope my solution may simply give you a diff option or a new idea as to what will be the best solution for your tank.

Heather


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## HSA1255 (Apr 2, 2013)

I also feel it would be best to not hook two filters to one spray bar because each out take is a chance to add varied current/flow to your tank that has dead spots. Good luck, I am interested to see what ends up working for you.


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

solchitlins said:


> I guess I just need to try it out, how do you know what angle and how big of a cut?
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You will have to experiment. You can start the Try the bottom of the angled cut about a half an inch below your normal waterline. The angle has to be steep enough so the filter gets enough water as you lose water through evaporation and before you have to add more. I started with a smaller slit at the bottom and just watched it for flow, to see if it picked up flakes and such. I did not perfect it on one day. It is easy enough to remove and re install without disturbing the tank since it just pushes down into the gravel. Be sure to remove any burrs and debris between modifications. With smaller fish you may need a piece of mesh or screen inside of the tube to keep the curious ones out. You do not need a prefilter sponge in the pipe for scum. Your filter will pick it up fine. The filter I was running on the overflow was a bio only, just EHEIM Substrat pro bio filter media in a basket in it.

The label on the bag says 3/4" adapter, should be 3/4 slip x 3/4 FPT They will work. A 3/4" slip strainer will require a coupling.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

whats a fpt? can the 3/4" slip strainer slip right on to the 3/4 pvc?

edit oh you are saying they are exactly the same so I need something to connect them?
Would a 1 inch fit over the end snug or will it be too big?


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

solchitlins said:


> whats a fpt? can the 3/4" slip strainer slip right on to the 3/4 pvc?
> 
> edit oh you are saying they are exactly the same so I need something to connect them?
> Would a 1 inch fit over the end snug or will it be too big?


Sorry, FPT is Female Pipe Thread sometimes also called FIP for Female Iron Pipe. I believe that the strainer pictured in the link has the same OD (outer diameter) as the 3/4" CPVC pipe. Someone would have to accurately measure or have personal experience to be able to tell you if the 1" will fit over the 3/4" pipe. I cannot tell by a picture else I surely would.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

thanks I wrote an ebay seller and he said to use a coupler and that 1" strainer was too large for me


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

Sweet! Good to know. Keep us updated on you project.


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

Spraybar turned out great, good pressure but not crazy powerful, just enough to sway the grass in the foreground.

I picked up 2 strainers at a local reef shop today for the next project


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

solchitlins said:


> Spraybar turned out great, good pressure but not crazy powerful, just enough to sway the grass in the foreground.
> 
> I picked up 2 strainers at a local reef shop today for the next project


So, did you end up with the spraybar at the top of the tank spraying above or below the waterline or did you mount it down close to the gravel line?

Did you decide then to do without the powerheads?


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

I stuck with this design:


















the bar is plugged in the middle and half is hooked to one canister and the other half is the other canister. Krylon fusion black paint, 1/2" cpvc etc...

I pulled the powerheads out.
I bought them on clearance and they were under $20 for both of them so no big deal, I'm sure they will come in handy for something down the road.


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## ccar2000 (Sep 3, 2011)

Looks nice. You did a good job with it. On to the next project? What will it be??????


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## solchitlins (Sep 11, 2013)

Replacing my intakes with the black cpvc ones, maybe one with that skimmer pipe setup


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