# VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB (Helpful Information Links are on Page 1)



## Left C

Should we start a Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club?

I have VTS253A-1993, VTS253D-320, HPT500-40-350-4M, SGT500-40-4F-DK CO2 regulators.

May I claim Victor Pimp #1?



*EDIT: Anyone that has a dual stage regulator as well as a Victor regulator is welcome to join.*




*HELPFUL INFORMATION* 

fordtrannyman just sent be the following info about Permalinks and number information. Please note this if you have dificulty finding the post.


fordtrannyman said:


> Hi Left C,
> Thought you might want to know.
> The permalinks only work if I have my posts per page under edit options in User CP set to match yours when the Permalink was created.
> 
> Not a big deal for me to look for the post number or go to my user CP and change my posts per page to display 15 like yours to make the link work.
> But lots of folks that may have changed that setting and forgot about it might get frustrated about the link not being accurate.


Victor Regulator Pimp Club Start: Post #1 – Page 1: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club.html#post674995

Victor Regulator Pimp Club Members: Post #966 - Page 65: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214

Victor’s home site and current part number list: Post #15 – Page 1: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club.html#post678085

fordtrannyman’s comments about his Victor dual stage regulator: Post #21 - Page 2: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-2.html#post704141

Rex Grigg’s “How to Build a Regulator”: Post #466 - Page 32: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-32.html#post785016

TIPS: Post #39 - Page 3: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629

Captain Hooked’s questions to Thermadyne about why CO2 freezes up some regulators: Post #48 - Page 4: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-4.html#post710765 and Post #58 Page 4: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-4.html#post711079

NPT Explained: Post #171 - Page 12: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-12.html#post728377

CGA connectors used with various gases chart: Post #554 - Page 37: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-37.html#post801288

Connecting and Swapping CO2 Cylinders: Post #397 – Page 27: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-27.html#post768230

Victor Dual Stage Regulator Part Numbers: Post #228 - Page 16: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-16.html#post733838

Dual Stage Regulator Part Numbers: Post #440 – Page 30: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-30.html#post775289

Concoa’s Part Numbers Explained: Post #319 - Page 22: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-22.html#post750241

mrkookm adjusts his Concoa's first stage pressure: Post #782 - Page 49: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-49.html#post828619

Matheson 8-320 CO2 regulator: Post #338 - Page 23: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-23.html#post751038

Clippard Part Numbers: Post #239 - Page 16: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-16.html#post736628

Clippard’s DIN Power Cords with Red Led and Power Cord: Post #358 – Page 24: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-24.html#post765148

How to Connect a Grounded Power Cord to Clippard’s Regulator: Post #363 - Page 25: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-25.html#post765444

Burkert’s Solenoid Part Number: Post #360 - Page 24: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-24.html#post765271

Clippard’s Brass Check Valve Parts: Post #364 - Page 25: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-25.html#post765448

Straight Through and Angle Pattern Metering Valves: Post #233 - Page 16: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-16.html#post735710

Victor Single and Dual Stage Regulator Design and Construction Features Also, How to Choose a Gas Regulator That’s Right for Your Application: Post #293 - Page 20: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-20.html#post743710

Informative Single Stage and Dual Stage regulators differences: Post #494 – Page 33: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-33.html#post793120

SuMo’s Post Body Kit: Post #454 – Page 31: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-31.html#post781892

Oregon Aqua Design Kit: Post #534 - Page 36: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-36.html#post799082

Differences between SuMo’s Post Body Kit and Oregon Aqua Design’s Kit explained: Post #458 - Page 37: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-37.html#post801104

Swagelok metering valve pics and tubing tightening video and info: Post #616 - Page 42: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...or-co2-regulator-pimp-club-42.html#post812751

SuMo Post Body Kit parts and wrench info: Post #775 - Page 52: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-52.html#post836199

More brass parts used to build regulators: Post #778 - Page 52: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-52.html#post836199

Stainless Steel regulator parts: Post #976 - Page 66: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-66.html#post876580
Post #977 - Page 66: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-66.html#post876581
Post #978 - Page 66: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-66.html#post876582
Post #979 - Page 66: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-66.html#post876584

Awesome $9.99 brand new chrome plated dual stage Concoa 2122351 03-32128 chrome plated dual stage regulator won on eBay: Post#779 - Page 53: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-52.html#post836881

Parts Used to Build Regulators Summary: Post #798 - Page 54: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-54.html#post838257

Hoppy's "Assembling a CO2 regulator" DIY thread: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator.html

lovingHDTV's "Yet another regulator build thread": http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9-equipment/83989-yet-another-regulator-build-thread.html

Find the correct pipe thread size: Post #883 - Page 59: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-59.html#post863779

Victor Service and Repair Manuals: Post #1071 - Page 72: http://www.thermadyne.com/victor/component/option,com_doclib/task,/id,/Itemid,237/categoryID,25/

Anwar's Victor high purity dual stage regulator ordering information: Post #1081 - Page 73: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-73.html#post882862

Swagelok Stainless Steel Part Numbers for CO2 regulator assembly: Post #1110 - Page 74: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-74.html#post883027

Carbon Dioxide Cylinder Adapter (CGA-320) To (CGA-580) Argon/Nitrogen/Inert Gases Regulator: Post #1337 - Page 90: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-90.html#post902711

Articles concerning pH, CO2, KH, GH, alkalinity and hardness from TheKrib.com: Post #1415 - Page 95: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-95.html#post928208

Direct solenoid actuation anamation: Post #1416 - Page 95: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-95.html#post928212

CO2 cylinder pressures at various temperatures and reading the markings on compressed air and CO2 cylinders: Post #1417 - Page #95: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-95.html#post930345

Tom Barr's Helpful Information: 
Post #813 - Page 55: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-55.html#post846604
Post #873 - Page 59: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-59.html#post863779
Post #877 - Page 59: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/9...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-59.html#post862850


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## fordtrannyman

I am Victor Pimp #2

Boasting 1- VTS253A


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## Left C

This is two so far.

I know that there are more people around with Victor regulators.


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## Mishmosh

Victor Pimp #3: VTS253A


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## bsmith

Ill be #4.

VICTOR MODEL# VTS253A-1993.


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## Left C

We have 4 people now. 

Would anyone else like to be in the Victor Pimp Club?


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## lescarpentier

Left C said:


> We have 4 people now.
> 
> Would anyone else like to be in the Victor Pimp Club?


Now you have 5.:hihi:

V/P "#5" for me.roud:


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## Left C

We have 5 now.

Anyone else?


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## delevan

consider me in as well!! V/P #6 :icon_wink


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## Squawkbert

Call me an "associate member" as my new (to me) regulator is in transit.
I've won a Victor SR 250 series 2 stage unit found on ebay.

It will allow me to replace the 2x 4L DIY rig I have now.


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## Left C

You are lucky #7! :smile:


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## c_sking

I throw mine in as #8, just grabbed a kegortor parts grab bag.


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## Left C

Cool!


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## Left C

Who will be #9?


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## Left C

I use J & R Welding Supply Co. to help with Victor regulator part numbers: http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html

Scroll down on the left side of the page to *Flowmeters* and *Regulators*.

Victor's home site: http://www.thermadyne.com/victor/


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## Left C

_[Ebay Links Removed. - KyleT]_


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## epicfish

...is the knob on the right a needle valve? I wonder how accurate it is.


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## Left C

epicfish said:


> ...is the knob on the right a needle valve? I wonder how accurate it is.


It looks like some type of flow adjuster. 

Would it probably need to be replaced with a needle/metering valve like we use? I really don't know, but I would think so. The seller may answer this question better.

Please notice that I just added one of the medical grade regulators to the above post.


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## Left C

How are your Victor regulators working?


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## bsmith

Now im just looking for a 10#-20# tank and ill be ready to roll. I cant wait.


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## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> How are your Victor regulators working?


I love it!
I have it set up with a DIY 3-way manifold using some cheap needle valves.
When I first noticed the initial high side pressure drop from 900 to 600 psi, I kept a close eye on the low side-(Initial setting of 5psi). 3 days later 400 psi and the low side didn't budge. It wasn't until the tank was near empty (200 psi), that I had to adjust the low side to get every bit of C02 possible. This Regulator is not only very precise, but it got me another week of C02 and NO END OF TANK DUMP.


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## SpeedEuphoria

Well I guess I'm jumping in to pressurized, just won one of these regulators on Ebay, the seller Left C posted.

Just looking for a solenoid now(thinking about a clippard), 10# tank and some other stuff. Any heads up on a place for a solenoid?

I ended up getting the 3-way JBJ splitter with the cheap needle valves for now.

What any specific fittings that I will need that I cant find locally? I assume they are 1/4" NPT threads on the regulator?


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## lescarpentier

SpeedEuphoria said:


> Just looking for a solenoid now, 10# tank and some other stuff.


http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/


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## SpeedEuphoria

yeah thats where I was looking for the solenoid, is that the only source?


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## lescarpentier

SpeedEuphoria said:


> yeah thats where I was looking for the solenoid, is that the only source?


No,I imagine that there are other sources,however Green Leaf is who I use.
Excellent support,friendly customer service,and immediate shipping.


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## Ackdog

I just bought a Victor reg from the ebay store link. Thanks left C. That seller has the weirdest assortment of stuff for sale I've ever seen.


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## Left C

I'm glad that you folks are enjoying your Victor regulators.

mrmotorcycles (Victor) sent me a Matheson model number 8-320 dual stage CO2 regulator to try. It is not as nice and shiny as the Victor regulators, but is a very nice regulator too.

[email protected] is his normal email address. You should use this email address for the Matheson regulators and not his eBay address because he is not selling them on eBay at the moment.


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## bsmith

Im waiting on Victor to get back to me about a regulator for my nano.


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## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Im waiting on Victor to get back to me about a regulator for my nano.


This is a Victor Medalist regulator. It is a very good single stage regulator. Tom Barr mentioned to SuMo that they should try it out. The Medalist line has been discontinued with a newer model that Green Leaf plans to sell now.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

The Matheson model that I mentioned above is a bit heavier than the Victor models mentioned above.

PetSolutions.com used to carry a small Amano style CO2 regulator, but I didn't see it listed anymore. http://www.petsolutions.com/CO2-Equipment+C13.aspx

I believe that it is the one used in this thread: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/27883-nano-co2-ada-style-regulator.html

Here's one, but it is $$: http://www.adgshop.com/EL_Valve_p/101-411.htm


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## eric_c

Thanks for the heads up on these - I purchased one of the medical grade ones this week. Waiting on it to ship - hopefully soon!


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## Left C

I'm sure that you will really like it.

Put on an Ideal or a Swagelok metering valve and your choice of solenoid (if you are planning on using one). You will then have a nice piece of equipment.


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## Bugman

Member wannabe. LOL. Let the last 253A I saw on Ebay get away from me. Checking every couple of days now for one.


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## SpeedEuphoria

Bugman said:


> Member wannabe. LOL. Let the last 253A I saw on Ebay get away from me. Checking every couple of days now for one.


Oh do you mean the one I bought?

J/K

Should be here this week, I'm still looking around at solenoids/ect


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## eric_c

Still waiting.. it seems he's taken awhile to ship. I've got everything else ready to go... needle valve, full CO2 tank, etc, etc... just waiting on the regulator so I can scrap my DIY CO2!

I know I could've gotten something quicker through other dealers, but I guess quality is worth waiting for.


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## SpeedEuphoria

Got mine today!, deff looks and feels solid









It will be a couple weeks before I get the rest of the parts and get it up and running.

Not sure that I deserve a pimp # since its not running yet, LOL:help:


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## eric_c

Got mine today too! I had everything else waiting and ready (including my tank) so I got everything hooked up today after work. It's bubbling (slowly) away now. 

Very nice valve - thanks for the heads up on the great deal! I got the silver VTS253A-1993.


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## Captain Hooked

I fell into a 450 series (VTS450) the other day on ebay for next to nothing [PICS]. I ordered a new nut and nipple (CGA320) yesterday for use with a CO2 cylinder. I went ahead and got new bezels and guage guards, too. I'll have about $70 in it all said and done- and it should be a beauty! When it all arrives, I want to hook it up to a 20lb tank and figure out how to run a manifold off it for multiple tanks. I hope this regulator gives me the finesse I need to squeeze that last bit out of the cylinder, cause a 20lb tank is a pita. :redface:


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## Left C

Hi guys

I like the responses so far. It is a sweet regulator, isn't it?

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


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## Left C

TIPS

If I may, I would like to share a few tips.

- Make sure that your regulator has a CGA-320 fitting. This means two things:
a) It will fit on a standard CO2 cylinder.
b) The regulator is designed to use CO2. I've read about some people that have purchased regulators w/o the CGA-320 fitting (it had a fitting for another type of gas) and the regulators would freeze up. I suggest that you make sure that the regulator has the correct fitting. There are professionals that you can ask and see if it is OK to swap the fittings.

- I use J&R as a reference guide to look up Victor part numbers: http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Victormenu.html

- I used Rex's pictorial guide to build my first regulator. It is very helpful: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

- Whenever I have a new regulator that I want to build; I contact the following places to order parts. You can get solenoids, needle/metering valves, and bubble counters. I also order the brass parts that I need from them too. Also, there are several places where brass parts are available.
Here's some places that have all or most of the parts:
-- http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/
-- http://www.sumoregulator.com/
-- http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/
-- http://www.clippard.com/store/
---- http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/61330-list-important-clippard-part-numbers.html

- Here are some guides on how to set up a CO2 system:
-- http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/planted-tank-faq/10755-how-setup-your-co2-system.html
-- http://www.rexgrigg.com/regset.html

- This is the non-hardening high pressure pipe joint compound that I use. I get it at Lowe's or home depot.


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## bsmith

Just sent my payment to Victor for 2 more regulators.

Heres the part #'s on them.

Victor 0-60psi HPS270B-320 

Matheson 0-100psi Model 8-350 

Whats the difference between a 60 and 100 psi? Is that the highest you can adjust the working pressure?


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## SpeedEuphoria

yes, the second gauge will range from 0-100psi, instead of 0-60 or 0-30

On that pipe dope is that recommended to use on the threads of a DIY reactor? I would think so.


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## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Just sent my payment to Victor for 2 more regulators.
> 
> Here's the part #'s on them.
> 
> Victor 0-60psi HPS270B-320


I couldn't find any info on this one. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Victor+HPS-270B-320&btnG=Search 



bsmith782 said:


> Matheson 0-100psi Model 8-350


Is this a typo? The Model Number should be 8-320. The 320 part of the model number signifies that it has a CGA-320 fitting. I have one of these. It is very nice too. How much is he charging for these?



bsmith782 said:


> Whats the difference between a 60 and 100 psi? Is that the highest you can adjust the working pressure?


That's correct.


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## bsmith

I couldnt find any info on the either. Thats why I posted them up for you! It could have been a typo, I hope it was a typo I dont want an unuseable regulator.





Left C said:


> I couldn't find any info on this one. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=Victor+HPS-270B-320&btnG=Search
> 
> Is this a typo? The Model Number should be 8-320. The 320 part of the model number signifies that it has a CGA-320 fitting. I have one of these. It is very nice too. How much is he charging for these?
> 
> That's correct.


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## Left C

SpeedEuphoria said:


> ... It will be a couple weeks before I get the rest of the parts and get it up and running.
> 
> Not sure that I deserve a pimp # since its not running yet, LOL:help:


I don't see any reason why you can't claim a number.

I'm glad that you like it.


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## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> I couldnt find any info on the either. Thats why I posted them up for you! It could have been a typo, I hope it was a typo I dont want an unuseable regulator.
> 
> ~$50 shipped for both.


I couldn't find it on J&R's site.

I'd guess that it is the same model that I have. You can feel the quality and precision with it too.

That's a good price.


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## bsmith

Hell, I though that the one I got the first time around felt quality. I have never had any other types so I really have no frame of reference.



Left C said:


> I couldn't find it on J&R's site.
> 
> I'd guess that it is the same model that I have. You can feel the quality and precision with it too.
> 
> That's a good price.


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## Left C

Most of the Cornelius regulators used for aquariums have a screw that you turn with a screwdriver. Then there is a lock nut that you need a wrench for. PITA

These particular Victor and Matheson regulators have a nice knob that you turn with your hand. No tools needed. 

Here is AquariumPlants.com "Second Best" Regulator. It used to be called "The Best." You can see the screw and lock nut.


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## Captain Hooked

Left C said:


> ....
> b) The regulator is designed to use CO2. I've read about some people that have purchased regulators w/o the CGA-320 fitting (it had a fitting for another type of gas) and the regulators would freeze up. I suggest that you make sure that the regulator has the correct fitting. There are professionals that you can ask and see if it is OK to swap the fittings.


 
I recently talked with one of the techs at thermadyne . 
I learned a lot. They have dedicated regulators for CO2 because they have the proper nut/nipple AND they have a special component that prevents them from freezing up while using CO2 (which is, as I understood it due to the unique nature of CO2). This is only when using CO2 at fairly high flow rates, which should not concern us "BPS" types. 

I was told (by "Alex" I think it was) that _'it isn't the fitting that causes a freeze up, it's the regulator body itself. All the 450 series regulators (for example) can be easily modded to run CO2, just so long as you (we) don't try to use them for really high flow rates'. For high flow rates, we suggest using a regulator designed for CO2 only. Also, once you use a regulator for CO2- DO NOT try to use it for another gas such as O2. Once a CO2 regulator- Always a CO2 regulator.'_

FWIW

Al I know is, my new VTS450 should perform beautifully for the given application.


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## bsmith

Just talke to Victor and he assured me that the model # was 350 and not the fitting types. Ill post up pics when I get them.


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## Left C

That's great news Captain Hooked. Thank you for sharing. I know that it's the parts in the body will make a difference. I know you are going to have a sweet regulator.

I mentioned this because a few months ago someone on eBay was selling regulators that were made for use with a different gas and this person had swapped out the stock fittings with CGA-320 fittings. These regulators were freezing up. This was a rip off.


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## SpeedEuphoria

SpeedEuphoria said:


> On that pipe dope is that recommended to use on the threads of a DIY reactor? I would think so.


Any feedback on this? 

I guess I'll be #9 as far as I can tell.

Found a local Fire Extinguisher place today that says $50 for a full 10# tank:thumbsup:. So I'll pick one up Monday.


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## bsmith

You can use the dope where ever there are threads.


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## Ackdog

I bought from ebay a Victor model VTS253A. It looks solid and has a nice control knob. I haven't hooked it up yet because I am trying to figure out if I am going to build an external reactor, or make the internal reactor in the APC thread:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...s/44053-tiny-super-efficient-co2-reactor.html
If I go with the internal deal, I won't have to get a solenoid, I'll just put the reactor on a timer.

Any thoughts?


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## Left C

I'd get a solenoid so that both of them can be turned off.

If you only turn the reactor off, you are still having CO2 flowing into the aquarium. Bubbles will build up in the reactor too.


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## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Just talke to Victor and he assured me that the model # was 350 and not the fitting types. Ill post up pics when I get them.


Does it have a CGA-320 fitting? If so, you are OK. It is for CO2 use.

CGA-350 fittings use H2 and Ar/CH4 mixes.

http://www.airproducts.com/Products/fastfacts/charts_n_tables/cgaspecs/index.asp


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## bsmith

Yeah it has the 320 fitting. 350 is the model #.:thumbsup:



Left C said:


> Does it have a CGA-320 fitting? If so, you are OK. It is for CO2 use.
> 
> CGA-350 fittings use H2 and Ar/CH4 mixes.
> 
> http://www.airproducts.com/Products/fastfacts/charts_n_tables/cgaspecs/index.asp


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## Left C

Cool! I've only seen CO2 regulators sold by Victor and no other types.


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## Captain Hooked

Left C said:


> ....a few months ago someone on eBay was selling regulators that were made for use with a different gas and this person had swapped out the stock fittings with CGA-320 fittings. These regulators were freezing up. This was a rip off.


I'm new to this sort of thing, and I'm trying to learn all I can. I gather, from my conversation with Thermadyne, freeze-ups have more to do with switching certain types of gas applications. Granted, there is supposed to be a diapragm (I think it was) that is unique to CO2, and allows for high flow rates. However, some retired O2 regs make suitable CO2 regs after their use in O2. One should never use it in the reverse order (CO2 now an O2 reg- which does not concern us). Another thing I gathered was that if the reg is not a high quality one to start with, it may be more prone to freezes due to the substandard build quality. I think once you get into the Victor 300 series (and up)- you're getting a Very high quality product that will easily do our modest CO2 duties (overkill, really). All the 250 series are also high quality, and if taken care of, they should easily outperform most all other regulators in this hobby.

I will add that regulators wear out, too. If they have been abused or asked to operate outside of their ratings for long periods of time- they will easily freeze up, dump, and /or leak. I suppose there is always a risk of this when buying a used regulator (or anything used for that matter). 

I asked about the nickel plated medical grade regulators, and was told that _some_ of them were made by Victor, yet wear a "Harris" name. Something to look out for.


----------



## Left C

Thank you very much for your info, Captain Hooked. All of use can learn from it. You are sharing info that many of us, including me, do not know.

Do you know why Victor discontinued the VTS-253*A*-320 line of regulators? These seem to work very well for our use. Victor still makes the *B*,*C*, and *D* models.


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

Looking for info on the seal, or plastic washer type seal that goes between the reg and tank. Is there a better one? Or has anyone every had sealing issues?


----------



## Left C

SpeedEuphoria said:


> Looking for info on the seal, or plastic washer type seal that goes between the reg and tank. Is there a better one? Or has anyone ever had sealing issues?


Hi

I had trouble with my first CO2 cylinder. It only lasted 3 days.

I found out right quick that you have to really get them tight. You need a big wrench. A 1 1/8" wrench is best. I have a very large crescent wrench that I use. 

After you get it tight; tighten it a bit more. The threads are designed to form a tight seal.

Do not use Teflon tape. This can prevent a good seal from forming and possibly get some trash into the solenoid/regulator.

Orlando sells two types of washers. One is a simple nylon washer which you should replace every time you replace cylinders. The other is a Perma-Seal washer that you screw into the CGA-320 male fitting on the cylinder. You use an Allen wrench to get it on and off. You have to make sure that your cylinder has threads on the inside to screw it in.
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulator-seals.html












I use the following version of a Perma-Seal that works like a regular washer, but you can use it over and over. I got them from Rex, but I don't think that he carries them anymore.












I have some nylon seals that I can send you if you need some. Just PM me.


SuMo may have some for sale: http://www.sumoregulator.com/


Here is Rex's site: http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/index.htm


Left C


----------



## bsmith

I just got my 270B from Victor.

































SpeedEuphoria here is a pic of the nylon seals that would be thrown away everytime you switched out your tank. I get my tabks from a company called airgas. They include a permaseal in all of their valves so as long as I get tanks form them im good.


----------



## Left C

That is a very nice looking Victor regulator. It looks like a single stage regulator. Is it?


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

I assume its dual since it had 2 gauges and a knob to adjust


I just got a full 15# CO2 cylinder today for $53 out the door, woot!!:thumbsup:

Waiting on the bubble counter/needle valve then I'll be good to go


----------



## bsmith

Im pretty sure its a dual. It reads tank pressure then working pressure. Im confused though. If the little valve is a needle valve of some sort?



Left C said:


> That is a very nice looking Victor regulator. It looks like a single stage regulator. Is it?


Thats a steal! Good job on that one.



SpeedEuphoria said:


> I assume its dual since it had 2 gauges and a knob to adjust
> 
> 
> I just got a full 15# CO2 cylinder today for $53 out the door, woot!!:thumbsup:
> 
> Waiting on the bubble counter/needle valve then I'll be good to go


----------



## Left C

It is not a dual stage regulator because it has two gauges. One gauge is the high pressure gauge that simply measures the tank pressure. The low pressure gauge is where the first stage part of regulator comes into play. The back of this regulator is flat.

Look at the back of the VTS-253 dual stage regulators that we are using. It is not flat. There is a big hump on the back. That is the location of the second stage. The second stage allows the low pressure to remain at your chosen low pressure setting until the pressure in the cylinder dips below this setting.


----------



## lescarpentier

I learn a lot from you left Croud:

Thanks!!


----------



## bsmith

Very good info. I was actually wondering what the deal was with the "humps". Just another reason for me to use the concoa on my mini-m!
HUMP











Left C said:


> It is not a dual stage regulator because it has two gauges. One gauge is the high pressure gauge that simply measures the tank pressure. The low pressure gauge is where the first stage part of regulator comes into play. The back of this regulator is flat.
> 
> Look at the back of the VTS-253 dual stage regulators that we are using. It is not flat. There is a big hump on the back. That is the location of the second stage. The second stage allows the low pressure to remain at your chosen low pressure setting until the pressure in the cylinder dips below this setting.


----------



## Bugman

OK Victor pimps, I said I wasn't going to let another 253 get away from me on Ebay but it is listed at 59.99. Too much in my opinion. I know a lot of you got them for $35 to $40. I made a offer to them at $40 and they countered at 49.99. Should I go ahead and bite the bullet or reject the offer and wait for another?? I know the Ebay seller a lot of you purchased from used to have them listed quite often but I haven't seen many lately.


----------



## bsmith

iS THAT SHIPPED?



Bugman said:


> OK Victor pimps, I said I wasn't going to let another 253 get away from me on Ebay but it is listed at 59.99. Too much in my opinion. I know a lot of you got them for $35 to $40. I made a offer to them at $40 and they countered at 49.99. Should I go ahead and bite the bullet or reject the offer and wait for another?? I know the Ebay seller a lot of you purchased from used to have them listed quite often but I haven't seen many lately.


----------



## Bugman

bsmith782 said:


> iS THAT SHIPPED?


No, If it was I would probably go ahead and buy it. Shipping is 12.95 UPS. And it is a used unit, tested.


----------



## Left C

What is the exact model number? 

VTS-253*A*-320, *B*, *C* or *D*

Is it a chrome plated medical grade CO2 regulator?


----------



## Bugman

Left C said:


> What is the exact model number?
> 
> VTS-253*A*-320, *B*, *C* or *D*
> 
> Is it a chrome plated medical grade CO2 regulator?


VTS-253A with the CGA-320 fitting. Says forged brass body and housing cap.


----------



## Left C

If you like, you can PM me the link and I will let you know what I think or is it the one that was used at a cancer research center?


----------



## bsmith

I offered the regulator I posted above to him...



Left C said:


> If you like, you can PM me the link and I will let you know what I think or is it the one that was used at a cancer research center?


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> I offered the regulator I posted above to him...


I'm confused.

The regulator that you posted above isn't the VTS-253A that Bugman mentioned.


----------



## bsmith

Correct, after I read that he was looking for a nice Victor regulator I offered the 270 to him. I am set on the Concoa for mu nano since it is dual stage.



Left C said:


> I'm confused.
> 
> The regulator that you posted above isn't the VTS-253A that Bugman mentioned.


----------



## Left C

Do you know if mrmotorcycles has many more of the Concoa regulators?


----------



## zzyzx85

Bugman said:


> OK Victor pimps, I said I wasn't going to let another 253 get away from me on Ebay but it is listed at 59.99. Too much in my opinion. I know a lot of you got them for $35 to $40. I made a offer to them at $40 and they countered at 49.99. Should I go ahead and bite the bullet or reject the offer and wait for another?? I know the Ebay seller a lot of you purchased from used to have them listed quite often but I haven't seen many lately.


_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Bugman

zzyzx85 said:


> I'm keeping my eye on the same one as you, I believe. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150306255789 I got a 10% coupon from PayPal but I'm wondering if I can get a better deal through making an offer (and maybe the coupon on top of that).


He has 3 of them listed so we at least aren't going against each other. I made a offer of $40. He has countered at $49.99. I have made another counter to him. It was late so I don't expect an answer till the morning.


----------



## Left C

There are 2 left.

I hope that you guys will be able to get them. You will really like dual stage regulators.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

Here's something to consider. Cornelius and 642 regulators sell for $40 to $52 new and you can get a used one for ~ $20 to $40 less.
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draf...classic_double_gauge_beer_co2_regulator.shtml
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draf...mercial_double_gauge_beer_co2_regulator.shtml
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draf...premium_double_gauge_beer_co2_regulator.shtml

These VTS-253A regulators sold for well over $200 new. $50 for a used one in good shape is a great deal, IMO.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Bugman

Well I am a member of the pimp club. The offer came back at $47.99 and I took it. With the 10% Ebay coupon it came to $55.84 with shipping.


----------



## zzyzx85

I got the first (so there were 2 left). Bugman got the second, so now there's only one. I paid a little more than Bugman but I don't feel bad over it, considering how good they are.

offered 50, got the 10% coupon (45.00) and shipping was 16, so $61 shipped. Not too bad, right?


----------



## Left C

I am very glad that both of you were able to get one.


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

Well I got the itch, so I hooked mine up today. I just hooked it to the filter inlet for now and I dont have a solenoid yet so I plan on turning it on and off till that arrives. I'm not using my drop checker either yet, just going slow, worked up to 1bps and plan to leave it there till I finalize the setup.


----------



## bsmith

I am doing the same with mine but I have a solenoid, I just never turn it off!



SpeedEuphoria said:


> Well I got the itch, so I hooked mine up today. I just hooked it to the filter inlet for now and I dont have a solenoid yet so I plan on turning it on and off till that arrives. I'm not using my drop checker either yet, just going slow, worked up to 1bps and plan to leave it there till I finalize the setup.


----------



## Left C

That is great news 009. What do you think about it so far?


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

The needle valve is acceptable, only thing is, I guess it must have 10-32 threads or something b/c I was going to plug the other 2 ports, but my 1/8npt plugs would not thread in. I used fittings I had on hand, then I also think that I may have a leak b/c i think the "inlet" on that manifold is also 10-32?? As it went all the way into my 1/4 to 1/8 adapter. So I prob have a small leak there. I need to go to the store and get the correct fitting if this is correct. Because of this I'm keeping the working pressure down at 10psi.

Only other thing is about every 30min I get a burp of bubbles from the filter outlet. Thats another reason I dont plan on turning up the BPS till I get the reactor made. This may also be b/c of my hard water? 8.0PH normally??

I ordered the stuff from Rex so when that comes I should be good to work my way up.


----------



## bsmith

Mine burps too. Just a side effect of the in efficient diffusion of the cannister.


----------



## DaveT

*Victor Pimp #?*

I don't know what number you're up to but I am also running a VTS-253A. I bought mine on ebay a little less than a year ago for $30 shipped. I needed to have it rebuilt though. It's been running rock solid since.

Dave


----------



## bsmith

#10 is YOU. :thumbsup:



DaveT said:


> I don't know what number you're up to but I am also running a VTS-253A. I bought mine on ebay a little less than a year ago for $30 shipped. I needed to have it rebuilt though. It's been running rock solid since.
> 
> Dave


----------



## Mishmosh

Dave,
Can you elaborate? Why did you need it rebuilt? Who did the rebuild and what did it cost you?



DaveT said:


> I don't know what number you're up to but I am also running a VTS-253A. I bought mine on ebay a little less than a year ago for $30 shipped. I needed to have it rebuilt though. It's been running rock solid since.
> 
> Dave


----------



## Left C

This is what the local welding shop owner told me about Victor regulator rebuilds. It is very important that you find someone experienced with Victor regulators and that they have or can get the correct parts. Many of the parts look interchangeable but they aren't. This is critical.


----------



## Captain Hooked

I received the parts and finally set up my 450 series the other day, and all I can say to those who are debating buying a Victor is:

_You cannot fully appreciate the quality of a Victor until you hold one in your hand and hook it up for use. They are built like nothing else. The expression "gorilla with silk gloves" comes to mind. Are they overkill for aquarium use? Yes, but that isn't the point when you can score a used Victor for about the price of a new (inferior) regulator. Buy them cheap and never look back._

Granted, the 450 is a gigantic beast (nearly twice the size of the 250's) and makes the 250's look more like the better choice for this hobby; still, I could not pass up this beauty at _less_ than the selling price of most 250's. It's nice to know I bought something that will perform for many years and hold it's full value if I ever decide to part with it. There aren't many things I can say that about. 

I need a number, and since the chronology is off in that respect- I would like to request the future number of "13", if I may. Left- is that cool with you? :icon_ques


----------



## Left C

#13 it is!

Thank you for the kind words about Victor regulators. I believe all of us feel the same way.:thumbsup:

I am very happy that you like your 450.


----------



## Left C

Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d

Ackdog***
eric_c***
Bugman***
zzyzx85***

*** - The guys with the *** haven't claimed any pimp club member numbers. I went ahead and assigned you guys member numbers. If there is a problem, just send me a PM.


----------



## Bugman

Left C said:


> Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
> #14 - Bugman
> Bugman***
> *** - The guys with the *** haven't claimed any pimp club member numbers. I went ahead and assigned you guys member numbers. If there is a problem, just send me a PM.


Not a problem here. Just unboxed my VTS253A. Man is it a hoss of a regulator!!

If I can force myself, I am going to put the solenoid, needle valve, tank, ect on my Birthday and Christmas list. I will cotinue to use my DIY set up till then, (if I don't get fed up with it before then, lol).

I am going to keep my eye out on Ebay for 2 more. Would love to replace my two Milwaukee's at some point. Never been really happy with them, even though I have already swapped out the needle valves for Fabco's.


----------



## Left C

Wow! That was really quick shipping. You ordered it on 10/29.

Your VTS-253A probably makes your Milwaukee regulators look like toys.


----------



## Bugman

> Left C said:
> 
> 
> 
> Wow! That was really quick shipping. You ordered it on 10/29.
> 
> 
> 
> What else would you expect...............it WAS shipped with UPS. (30 years service as of 10/18/08, hehe)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your VTS-253A probably makes your Milwaukee regulators look like toys.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I had heard you guys elude to their build but I had no idea. It will be interesting to do a side by side with the Milwaukee when I get home tonight.


----------



## zzyzx85

Hey, I have no problem with being #15. Can't wait for it to come in tomorrow (hopefully), though I won't have all the parts to make it work.


----------



## Left C

You will have the main part though.


----------



## zzyzx85

Left C said:


> You will have the main part though.


haha, that's true.

Bugman: are you going to be taking pictures of it? Would like to see it beforehand so I won't be shocked at how awesome it is.


----------



## eric_c

Left C said:


> Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
> #12 - eric_c
> B]*[/B] - The guys with the *** haven't claimed any pimp club member numbers. I went ahead and assigned you guys member numbers. If there is a problem, just send me a PM.


Thanks for the number! I'm running my Victor - glad to be a member of the club.


----------



## Bugman

zzyzx85 said:


> haha, that's true.
> 
> Bugman: are you going to be taking pictures of it? Would like to see it beforehand so I won't be shocked at how awesome it is.


 
Here you go. My milwaukee on the tank and the new 253A. If you think the difference is distance, the 253 is actually touching the tank.


----------



## zzyzx85

Good news: My VTS253A came in today. This thing feels like quality when you pick it up.









Bad news: Looks like the gauge housing got bent, bending the gauge face as well. Does this warrant a return/exchange? I have no way of testing it unless someone here is local to me.


----------



## Ackdog

Left C said:


> Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
> 
> #1 - Left C
> #2 - fordtrannyman
> #3 - Mishmosh
> #4 - bsmith782
> #5 - lescarpentier
> #6 - delevan
> #7 - Squawkbert
> #8 - c_sking
> #9 - SpeedEuphoria
> #10 - DaveT
> #11 - Ackdog
> #12 - eric_c
> #13 - Captain Hooked
> #14 - Bugman
> #15 - zzyzx85
> 
> Ackdog***
> eric_c***
> Bugman***
> zzyzx85***
> 
> *** - The guys with the *** haven't claimed any pimp club member numbers. I went ahead and assigned you guys member numbers. If there is a problem, just send me a PM.


#11 sounds good to me. I'll keep you posted when I get this bad boy up and running.roud:


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> ... Bad news: Looks like the gauge housing got bent, bending the gauge face as well. Does this warrant a return/exchange? I have no way of testing it unless someone here is local to me.


The gauge isn't very expensive ( ~ $15 I think). You should contact the seller. Does the seller have an extra one?

I've seen Cornelius regulators deform the low pressure gauge twice. It happens when someone doesn't set the low pressure gauge to 0 psi when they swap out CO2 cylinders. Then after you have the regulator tightened down; adjust the low pressure back to your chosen psi setting.

I also follow this method when I swap out my Victor regulators and I haven't had any problems.

I believe that it was shipped to you that way and not damaged in shipment, but it is only a guess.


----------



## zzyzx85

The seller has an extra regulator but I'm hesitant at sending it back because of the hassle. If it's merely cosmetic, I'm not too worried about it. I just wished I could check if it's operable. Funny how the needle would get stuck when the gage is at 15psi...which would be in the ideal working pressure range.

I'm thinking of taking something that'll clear the needle's length and shim it between the cover and faceplate so that the needle can clear the raised part. If not, I'll keep it as it and get a gauge later on.


----------



## epicfish

I'd send it back. You paid good money for a nice working regulator.

Where in SoCal are you? I have a tank you can test with.


----------



## zzyzx85

I'm in OC (Cypress). Closest I get to LA is when I'm at Pomona for class.

I'm at a tossup between buying a new gage for it or shipping it back. It'll probably cost the same either way.


----------



## adstudio3d

I don't think he'll be able to replace your reg since I just bought the 3rd one he was selling =) He may have another one though, just not up for auction yet?

I was going to get an azoo, but for $20 less I got the victor. Does that mean i'm in the victor pimp club? haha


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> I don't think he'll be able to replace your reg since I just bought the 3rd one he was selling =) He may have another one though, just not up for auction yet?
> 
> I was going to get an azoo, but for $20 less I got the victor. Does that mean i'm in the victor pimp club? haha


Yep!

You are #16.



Left C said:


> Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
> 
> #1 - Left C
> #2 - fordtrannyman
> #3 - Mishmosh
> #4 - bsmith782
> #5 - lescarpentier
> #6 - delevan
> #7 - Squawkbert
> #8 - c_sking
> #9 - SpeedEuphoria
> #10 - DaveT
> #11 - Ackdog
> #12 - eric_c
> #13 - Captain Hooked
> #14 - Bugman
> #15 - zzyzx85
> #16 - adstudio3d


----------



## adstudio3d

awesome, now I feel like i'm part of the "elite" aka "completely overkill for a 10gal" club haha now I just need a 20lb bottle to last me till i'm 60 on the 10gal


----------



## Left C

*Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
*
#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus


----------



## zzyzx85

Does anyone have a picture of their Victor set up, namely the VTS-253A? Or did I miss it in the earlier posts?


----------



## bsmith

I now have a clippard solenoid and a different NV on it.



zzyzx85 said:


> Does anyone have a picture of their Victor set up, namely the VTS-253A? Or did I miss it in the earlier posts?


----------



## zzyzx85

any picture of the new setup with solenoid?


----------



## bsmith




----------



## zzyzx85

bsmith782 said:


> pics


:thumbsup: Thanks! 

Arg...I need to make a cabinet stand when find the time. Need to hideaway all the tank and fish stuff.


----------



## DataLifePlus

Okay pimps... I think I want to join the club.

If I bought this regulator, what else would I need to make it work?

A solenoid and a needle valve, right? I know I can get a solenoid from Green Leaf, but where can I get a good needle valve? Is there any place I can get them both?

Thanks!


----------



## zzyzx85

www.bestaquariumregulator.com -> Rex Grigg's site. Has both needle valves and solenoids, along with pretty much everything else you need, except CO2 tanks.

You also need a CO2 cylinder, the fittings (Mr. Grigg probably has them), bubble counter, co2 tubing, check valve, and a diffuser or reactor.


----------



## DataLifePlus

zzyzx85 said:


> www.bestaquariumregulator.com -> Rex Grigg's site. Has both needle valves and solenoids, along with pretty much everything else you need, except CO2 tanks.
> 
> You also need a CO2 cylinder, the fittings (Mr. Grigg probably has them), bubble counter, co2 tubing, check valve, and a diffuser or reactor.



Thanks. What kind of fittings will I need?


----------



## zzyzx85

depends on the solenoid and other pieces you get


----------



## DataLifePlus

zzyzx85 said:


> depends on the solenoid and other pieces you get


But if I buy the solenoid and needle valve from Rex, he should have the proper fittings to connect them to the regulator body?


----------



## zzyzx85

(don't know but probably) correct


----------



## DataLifePlus

zzyzx85 said:


> (don't know but probably) correct


Haha... alright, thanks. I emailed Rex, so we'll find out.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Okay pimps... I think I want to join the club.
> 
> If I bought this regulator, what else would I need to make it work?
> 
> A solenoid and a needle valve, right? I know I can get a solenoid from Green Leaf, but where can I get a good needle valve? Is there any place I can get them both?
> 
> Thanks!


Your 253A-320 CO2 regulator that you are getting uses 1/4" female NPT threads. Tell the person whomever you get the solenoid, metering/needle valve and bubble counter from that your regulator has the above threads and that you need all the brass parts to hook them up.

Also, please read through all the tips and links below.

Check this response below: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629



Left C said:


> TIPS
> 
> If I may, I would like to share a few tips.
> 
> - Make sure that your regulator has a CGA-320 fitting. This means two things:
> a) It will fit on a standard CO2 cylinder.
> b) The regulator is designed to use CO2. I've read about some people that have purchased regulators w/o the CGA-320 fitting (it had a fitting for another type of gas) and the regulators would freeze up. I suggest that you make sure that the regulator has the correct fitting. There are professionals that you can ask and see if it is OK to swap the fittings.
> 
> - I use J&R as a reference guide to look up Victor part numbers: http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Victormenu.html
> 
> - I used Rex's pictorial guide to build my first regulator. It is very helpful: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm
> 
> - Whenever I have a new regulator that I want to build; I contact the following places to order parts. You can get solenoids, needle/metering valves, and bubble counters. I also order the brass parts that I need from them too. Also, there are several places where brass parts are available.
> Here's some places that have all or most of the parts:
> -- http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/
> -- http://www.sumoregulator.com/
> -- http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/
> -- http://www.clippard.com/store/
> ---- http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/61330-list-important-clippard-part-numbers.html
> 
> - Here are some guides on how to set up a CO2 system:
> -- http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/planted-tank-faq/10755-how-setup-your-co2-system.html
> -- http://www.rexgrigg.com/regset.html
> 
> - This is the non-hardening pipe joint compound that I use. I get it at Lowe's or Home Depot.


----------



## DataLifePlus

Thanks, Left. I appreciate the help.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Thanks, Left. I appreciate the help.


You are very welcome. Would you like to be Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Member #18?


Take a look at these Victor VTS-253-320 regulators. Notice that they don't have the extra flow adjuster on the bottom of these regulators like yours does. It's the part sticking out on the right side in the picture.

You can either remove it or leave it on.

If you remove it from the regulator, you will have 1/4" female NPT threads. I can't tell from the picture what the fitting size would be when the barbed fitting is removed.

It would be wise of you to send a picture of your regulator when you order parts.


----------



## DataLifePlus

Left C said:


> You are very welcome. Would you like to be Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Member #18?
> 
> 
> Take a look at these Victor VTS-253-320 regulators. Notice that they don't have the extra flow adjuster on the bottom of these regulators like yours does. It's the part sticking out on the right side in the picture.
> 
> You can either remove it or leave it on.
> 
> If you remove it from the regulator, you will have 1/4" female NPT threads. I can't tell from the picture what the fitting size would be when the barbed fitting is removed.
> 
> It would be wise of you to send a picture of your regulator when you order parts.


I actually haven't bought it yet. I'm trying to see if the seller will work with me on shipping. Currently the only shipping option is going to cost me $23.60. :icon_eek: 

But is that a good regulator for the price ($52)?

Future Victor Pimp, 
James.


----------



## Left C

Any of the VTS dual stage CO2 regulators are very good (if they are in good shape, of course).

I would purchase it for that amount.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## bsmith

Didi you get the Swageloks running yet C?


----------



## adstudio3d

I already got the victor 253A dual stage but need to get the other parts to get it running.

I emailed greenleaf sumo and rex but only Sumo got back to me with this response:

"We believe the best way to run the Fabco is inline. We are currently
testing a few types of sealant to "weld" a 1/8" NPT fitting to the NV-55,
but are not convinced that any of them are able to withstand the heat of a
solenoid, and without the integrity of a good, durable sealant between the
solenoid and needle valve, your setup would be destined to leak. 

The JBJ bubble counter works best with a hard mounted needle valve. We can
also configure it for inline use, but you'd need a way to mount it to keep
it vertical. The Fabco has #10/32 fittings which we do not believe are
tough enough to withstand an inadvertent whack or two of an attached bubble
counter."

My question is what is everyone running on their victor 253A without leaks? I need to get these by next week so I have my Co2 running for all my new plants coming in.


----------



## bsmith

I have a cheap ass NV that us a 90deg. setup so I can just screw my jbj type bubble counter on top of it.


----------



## adstudio3d

you don't have any flow issues or end of tank dump? do you know what model NV it is?


----------



## bsmith

Not to my knowledge. I have only been running this pressurized set up for a month or so though. I really dont know what model NV it is but it is the same as these gor sale in this thread... just brass.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/swap-n-shop/76849-sale-plants-needle-valve-6-output.html


----------



## DataLifePlus

Does anyone know if Green Leaf sells the Clippard solenoid and Ideal valve by themselves? I know they make and sell the regulator kits with these parts on them, but do they sell the parts?

By the way, I ordered that regulator on eBay, so my pimp status should be secured soon.


----------



## bsmith

Greenleaf no longer sells solenoids.


----------



## DataLifePlus

bsmith782 said:


> Greenleaf no longer sells solenoids.


Did that just happen recently? Because I could have sworn I saw them on the site last week.

So is my best bet getting the solenoid and needle valve from Rex? I sent him an email a few days ago asking if he had the fittings to connect the parts to my regulator and I haven't heard back.


----------



## bsmith

Yes and yes. Im actually looking to get one from Rex too if I cant get one from a member.



DataLifePlus said:


> Did that just happen recently? Because I could have sworn I saw them on the site last week.
> 
> So is my best bet getting the solenoid and needle valve from Rex? I sent him an email a few days ago asking if he had the fittings to connect the parts to my regulator and I haven't heard back.


----------



## zzyzx85

Found a new gauge at a local welding supply store. It was a lot less than I expected but the readings are...odd compared to the original one.

Would this work? http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v251/zzyzx85/aquarium/equipment/?action=view&current=DSC_1989.jpg


----------



## bsmith

I dont see why not. This is for your working pressure right? If so you want that set at 15-20 lbs.


----------



## zzyzx85

I was just making sure. Yup, it's for the working pressure. The seller is refunding me $9 for the inconvenience.

I guess I'll set it a little above 15psi and run it like that.


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Didi you get the Swageloks running yet C?


No

It will be next month b/4 I have the $ to get the parts.

The valves are still available if you want to get your own parts.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Did that just happen recently? Because I could have sworn I saw them on the site last week.
> 
> So is my best bet getting the solenoid and needle valve from Rex? I sent him an email a few days ago asking if he had the fittings to connect the parts to my regulator and I haven't heard back.


You can get Clippard solenoids from my *TIPS* link. They are about $15 plus with a $3 cord.


----------



## adstudio3d

I was looking through the clippard website trying to find the right solenoid for the VTS253A.
Someone said the solenoid to use was the "MME-2PDS-D110"
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110

But that solenoid uses a 1/8" npt fitting and the Victor regulator uses a 1/4"
I noticed there is a very similar solenoid with the same model# which uses a 1/4" npt fitting instead. model "MME-2QDS-D110"
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2QDS-D110

MME-2PDS-D110 - 1/8" npt fitting (110 VAC)
MME-2QDS-D110 - 1/4" npt fitting (024 VAC)

Everything else looks to be exactly the same specs except the voltage posted on site and npt size.

Would this solenoid be better for the victor since it does not need any brass adapters? or would it still need some kind of adapter to fit it to the victor? Any problem with those voltages or is that just a typo on the site?


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> I was looking through the clippard website trying to find the right solenoid for the VTS253A.
> Someone said the solenoid to use was the "MME-2PDS-D110"
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110
> 
> But that solenoid uses a 1/8" npt fitting and the Victor regulator uses a 1/4"
> I noticed there is a very similar solenoid with the same model# which uses a 1/4" npt fitting instead. model "MME-2QDS-D110"
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2QDS-D110
> 
> MME-2PDS-D110 - 1/8" npt fitting (110 VAC)
> MME-2QDS-D110 - 1/4" npt fitting (024 VAC)
> 
> Everything else looks to be exactly the same specs except the voltage posted on site and npt size.
> 
> Would this solenoid be better for the victor since it does not need any brass adapters? or would it still need some kind of adapter to fit it to the victor? Any problem with those voltages or is that just a typo on the site?


Both of those solenoids will work, but you still need an adapter. The Victor regulator and the MME-2PDS both have fremale threads (At least the Victor regulators that I have seen.)

The voltage for the MME-2PDS is 110 vac din as is the voltage for the MME-2PDS-D110. This is mentioned in the first line in the links.

You will still have to have a 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT reducer to attach the needle/metering valve.

So you can go either way, but the 1/8" NPT solenoid is what most people use.

This is how Rex did it: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


*TIPS:* http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Does anyone know if Green Leaf sells the Clippard solenoid and Ideal valve by themselves? I know they make and sell the regulator kits with these parts on them, but do they sell the parts?
> 
> By the way, I ordered that regulator on eBay, so my pimp status should be secured soon.


I have purchased Clippard solenoids and Ideal metering valves from both SuMo and Green Leaf.

I got great service from both SuMo and Green Leaf.
http://www.sumoregulator.com/
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/

I just took a look at http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/ and I didn't see any needle valves listed nor any solenoids listed.

You can order a solenoid directly from Clippard too. That is how I got my first solenoids, brass check valves, #10-32 barbed reducers and CO2 tubing.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/61330-list-important-clippard-part-numbers.html
http://www.clippard.com/store/


I may have some Swagelok metering valves ready about the middle of December.


----------



## adstudio3d

I talked to Greenleaf, they no longer sell any co2 components seperately. They will only sell the whole setup with regulator. And Rex hasn't been around. Sumo is around and selling the parts though.


----------



## epicfish

adstudio3d said:


> I talked to Greenleaf, they no longer sell any co2 components seperately. They will only sell the whole setup with regulator. And Rex hasn't been around. Sumo is around and selling the parts though.


Get it direct from Clippard.

Check Left C's last post.


----------



## adstudio3d

yea i am going to order through clippard, Only using sumo to get the needle valve and ebay the bubble counter. Sumo wanted $92 for fabco NV, jbj bubble counter, clippard solenoid.


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

Clippard does not sell direct(edit: to individuals). That website is a separate distributor for clippard(what they told me when I called Clippard). When your on that site, put in your zip code to get other distributors. Call them and order that way you dont have to pay that silly $10 handling charge. If you pick one in your state then you have to pay sales tax. So I ordered one from the next state over to bypass the sales tax as shipping is only like $1 more.

I just ordered extra solenoids and checkvalves to I will have some forsale shortly for cheap.


----------



## bsmith

I called the local vendors that poped up on Clippards website after I put in my zop code. There is no handling/shipping charges if you pick it up from them. 

$19.70 is a sweet deal for one of these solenoids, for sure!


----------



## Left C

I ordered some catalogs from Clippard. About a week later a local Clippard sales rep called and asked me a few questions. Then, I was asked what the parts are going to be used for (a CO2 regulator). I was also asked the name of my company. So, I made up a company name. I placed my order and they only charged me for just a few parts. The other ones were free. This was a really good deal for me.

AaronT made a list of Clippard parts and I ordered most of each of the products on his list. If I remember right, it was ~ $40 including shipping.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/61330-list-important-clippard-part-numbers.html
http://www.clippard.com/store/

I took my Victor regulator, Clippard solenoid and Ideal metering valve to a local plumbers supply store along with Rex's pictures on building a regulator and they fixed me up with all the brass parts for less than $3.

This regulator didn't have a JBJ bubble counter. I had an AM bubble counter mounted on the stand. I also brought along one the Clippard 1/8" barbs that have #10-32 male treads (#10-32 to 1/8” Hose Fitting). The sales person at the plumbers store got a 1/8" NPT cap and drilled it out to fit the barb. It works great and it was included in the $3 price. This was used for my first Victor CO2 regulator. Also, this is the same hose barb fitting that fits on the Clippard brass check valve.

I've ordered parts from Sumo. Sergio and Mike are great to deal with and ship very promptly. They don't sell any Swagelok metering valves now unless you buy the whole regulator (if they have any left). They sell Ideal metering valves and the last time that I contacted them, they were looking for another good quality valve to replace the Swagelok.


----------



## bsmith

What do you think about this?
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/77063-leaky-co2-connection.html



Left C said:


> I ordered some catalogs from Clippard. About a week later a local Clippard sales rep called and asked me a few questions. Then, I was asked what the parts are going to be used for (a CO2 regulator). I was also asked the name of my company. So, I made up a company name. I placed my order and they only charged me for just a few parts. The other ones were free. This was a really good deal for me.
> 
> AaronT made a list of Clippard parts and I ordered most of each of the products on his list. If I remember right, it was ~ $40 including shipping.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/61330-list-important-clippard-part-numbers.html
> http://www.clippard.com/store/
> 
> I took my Victor regulator, Clippard solenoid and Ideal metering valve to a local plumbers supply store along with Rex's pictures on building a regulator and they fixed me up with all the brass parts for less than $3.
> 
> This regulator didn't have a JBJ bubble counter. I had an AM bubble counter mounted on the stand. I also brought along one the Clippard 1/8" barbs that have #10-32 male treads (#10-32 to 1/8” Hose Fitting). The sales person at the plumbers store got a 1/8" NPT cap and drilled it out to fit the barb. It works great and it was included in the $3 price. This was used for my first Victor CO2 regulator. Also, this is the same hose barb fitting that fits on the Clippard brass check valve.
> 
> I've ordered parts from Sumo. Sergio and Mike are great to deal with and ship very promptly. They don't sell any Swagelok metering valves now unless you buy the whole regulator (if they have any left). They sell Ideal metering valves and the last time that I contacted them, they were looking for another good quality valve to replace the Swagelok.


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> yea i am going to order through clippard, Only using sumo to get the needle valve and ebay the bubble counter. Sumo wanted $92 for fabco NV, jbj bubble counter, clippard solenoid.


That is a very good price!

They will send you the brass parts that you need along with brass check valves if you ask them.

Also, check this out: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=726657


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> What do you think about this?
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/77063-leaky-co2-connection.html


I wouldn't set it up like that. IMO, that is like asking for trouble.

I build my regulators somewhat like Rex, Green Leaf and SuMo.


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> Found a new gauge at a local welding supply store. It was a lot less than I expected but the readings are...odd compared to the original one.
> 
> Would this work? http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v251/zzyzx85/aquarium/equipment/?action=view&current=DSC_1989.jpg


Be sure to use Teflon tape or a non hardening pipe joint compound when you install it. Maybe you should blow through the regulator's intake and exhaust to get any trash out.

Your replacement low pressure gauge just shows psi and not kPa as well.

Is it the same diameter of your broken gauge?


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Does anyone know if Green Leaf sells the Clippard solenoid and Ideal valve by themselves? I know they make and sell the regulator kits with these parts on them, but do they sell the parts?
> 
> By the way, I ordered that regulator on eBay, so my pimp status should be secured soon.


You are #18.


----------



## Left C

*Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
*
#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Thanks, Left. I appreciate the help.















DataLifePlus said:


> Okay pimps... I think I want to join the club.
> 
> If I bought this regulator, what else would I need to make it work?
> 
> A solenoid and a needle valve, right? I know I can get a solenoid from Green Leaf, but where can I get a good needle valve? Is there any place I can get them both?
> 
> Thanks!





Left C said:


> Your 253A-320 CO2 regulator that you are getting uses 1/4" female NPT threads. Tell the person whomever you get the solenoid, metering/needle valve and bubble counter from that your regulator has the above threads and that you need all the brass parts to hook them up.
> 
> Also, please read through all the tips and links below.
> 
> Check this response below: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629



I've been thinking about your question and my response to it.

Your Victor regulator has an extra flow control device with a barbed fitting.

If you remove the barbed fitting only, would you have a 1/4" male NPT?

I have a Matheson dual gauge regulator that has a similar flow control. It has a 1/4" male NPT.

I know that if you removed all of the flow control's parts, you would have a 1/4" female NTP.


----------



## zzyzx85

Left C said:


> Be sure to use Teflon tape or a non hardening pipe joint compound when you install it. Maybe you should blow through the regulator's intake and exhaust to get any trash out.
> 
> You replacement low pressure gauge just shows psi and not kPa as well.
> 
> Is it the same diameter of your broken gauge?


Good idea to clean it out. Any particular way to do this?

Noticed that when I first got it; also because there's no graduations after 15 psi until you get to 30 psi.

Yup, it's the same diameter as the old one.


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> Good idea to clean it out. Any particular way to do this?
> 
> Noticed that when I first got it; also because there's no graduations after 15 psi until you get to 30 psi.
> 
> Yup, it's the same diameter as the old one.


I just blew through mine on both sides with the needle valve completely open. I got little tiny bits of Teflon tape trash out. This can cause your solenoid to not completely close.You could also use an air compressor for this too. It will probably work much better.

You can "guesstimate" the settings close enough. I run mine at 15 psi. There is no particular reason for this setting. When I first started it, I used 15 psi and it worked fine. I never changed it. I believe I read that someone was using 5 psi.

I didn't know this, but the high pressure gauges come in right hand or left hand threads. This site only lists right hand threads for the low pressure gauge.
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/regulators/replacement.shtml


----------



## DataLifePlus

Left C said:


> I've been thinking about your question and my response to it.
> 
> Your Victor regulator has an extra flow control device with a barbed fitting.
> 
> If you remove the barbed fitting only, would you have a 1/4" male NPT?
> 
> I have a Matheson dual gauge regulator that has a similar flow control. It has a 1/4" male NPT.
> 
> I know that if you removed all of the flow control's parts, you would have a 1/4" female NTP.


Thanks again for all the info. I'll let you know exactly what it is as soon as I get my hands on it. Do you think I should remove the whole flow control? What, if any, benefits would it have?

Also, could you enlighten me as to what NPT and NTP stand for? Looks like I might have to locate the adapters and fittings myself as Rex is not returning my emails.  Are they commonly available at places like Ace Hardware or Home Depot?


----------



## cheefunk

I purchased a Victor (the one from the Cancer center) yesterday. This is my first co2 set up, so I'd like your advise. I've been reading this thread and there is a lot of good info here, it really helped me out and sold me on Victor. The package that Sumo put together for $92 (solenoid, nv, bubble counter) sounds like a good deal. How do I get in touch with them?


----------



## zzyzx85

website: www.sumoregulator.com
inquiries email: [email protected]

They're a helpful group; they're currently helping me with what fittings I need.


----------



## bsmith

http://sumoregulator.com/ :thumbsup:

Dang, with the quickness...^^^^^



cheefunk said:


> I purchased a Victor (the one from the Cancer center) yesterday. This is my first co2 set up, so I'd like your advise. I've been reading this thread and there is a lot of good info here, it really helped me out and sold me on Victor. The package that Sumo put together for $92 (solenoid, nv, bubble counter) sounds like a good deal. How do I get in touch with them?


----------



## adstudio3d

I have been going back and forth with them, they are helpful.
I ended up ordering an ideal NV, jbj bubble counter, clippard solenoid, all the fittings and some Co2 hose from them instead of the $92 setup. I wish I could just go the cheap way and get an azoo setup for $60 but I ALWAYS go overboard haha.

Thanks everyone on this thread for MAKING me buy the more expensive setup =)

What pressure settings everyone use to get 1-2 BPS? This system is only hooked up to my lowly 10gal


----------



## cheefunk

Thanks for the links, I'll get a hold of them as soon as my reg gets in. 

I agree overkill is so much better and worth it for the ease of mind.


----------



## zzyzx85

wooo...picking up a 20lb CO2 tank locally tomorrow. They're asking for $75. Tempted to try to talk them lower but it's a full tank of CO2.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> ... Also, could you enlighten me as to what NPT and NTP stand for? Looks like I might have to locate the adapters and fittings myself as Rex is not returning my emails.  Are they commonly available at places like Ace Hardware or Home Depot?


From: http://www.trentonpipe.com/threadforms.html

"NPT (National Pipe Thread - American National Standard, Taper Pipe Thread)

NPT is a tapered thread. It is the Standard thread for nipples in the United States.

It is important to remember that because this is a tapered thread, the end threads are 'imperfect threads' designed to act as a seal/tightener as a female NPT threaded part is mated. The thread are measured by length (can be varied as customer requires) and by the taper, which is measured with a ring gauge.

Please note that the standards require a gauging technique which involves tightening the gauge on the thread and then tapping it on a hard surface to seat the gauge, before tightening again. Please see ASTM B687.
NPT Thread Data"


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> *Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members
> *
> #1 - Left C
> #2 - fordtrannyman
> #3 - Mishmosh
> #4 - bsmith782
> #5 - lescarpentier
> #6 - delevan
> #7 - Squawkbert
> #8 - c_sking
> #9 - SpeedEuphoria
> #10 - DaveT
> #11 - Ackdog
> #12 - eric_c
> #13 - Captain Hooked
> #14 - Bugman
> #15 - zzyzx85
> #16 - adstudio3d
> #17 - mnellis3023
> #18 - DataLifePlus
> #19 - cheefunk


Who doesn't have a Victor Pimp Club number?


----------



## zzyzx85

mnellis3023 is on there twice.


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> mnellis3023 is on there twice.


Thanks for the catch. I missed it somehow.


----------



## Left C

cheefunk said:


> I purchased a Victor (the one from the Cancer center) yesterday. This is my first co2 set up, so I'd like your advise. I've been reading this thread and there is a lot of good info here, it really helped me out and sold me on Victor. The package that Sumo put together for $92 (solenoid, nv, bubble counter) sounds like a good deal. How do I get in touch with them?


Hi cheefunk

You are number #19

Left C


----------



## Left C

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## cheefunk

Thanks for the number, I'll wear it with pride. My reg came in yesterday, it's impressive.


----------



## Left C

I hope that you really enjoy your Victor dual stage regulator and that you get very good service from it. I have enjoyed mine. I really like what fordtrannyman said about his:



fordtrannyman said:


> I love it!
> I have it set up with a DIY 3-way manifold using some cheap needle valves.
> When I first noticed the initial high side pressure drop from 900 to 600 psi, I kept a close eye on the low side-(Initial setting of 5psi). 3 days later 400 psi and the low side didn't budge. It wasn't until the tank was near empty (200 psi), that I had to adjust the low side to get every bit of C02 possible. This Regulator is not only very precise, but it got me another week of C02 and NO END OF TANK DUMP.


----------



## Left C

Hi jazzlvr123

I want to thank you for posting the following thread. You are the one that really got me and others interested in this excellent regulator in the first place.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/59256-will-co2-regulator-work-planted-aquarium.html

Would you be interested in being #20? 

Thank you very much!

Left C


----------



## DataLifePlus

Just got my regulator in the mail! It's much bigger than I expected.










Looks great though and I can't wait to hook it up. I ordered the other parts from SuMo 
Regulators, who have been very helpful.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> Just got my regulator in the mail! It's much bigger than I expected.
> 
> Looks great though and I can't wait to hook it up. I ordered the other parts from SuMo Regulators, who have been very helpful.


That is the same impression when I got my first one. They are a few times bigger than the Cornelius and Azoo regulators that I had in the past.

Your regulator looks almost new!

I hope that you have years of service with it. SuMo has great parts and they are very helpful.

Are you going to leave the exhaust flow valve on it or are you going to remove it and its connectors from the regulator body down to the 1/4" female NPT threads on the regulator?

The reason that I am asking is because I have a Matheson 8-320 dual stage regulator somewhat like your Victor with its exhaust flow valve.


----------



## Left C

Here is a new VTS-253A-1993 Victor medical grade dual stage regulator for sale.
<Link removed.>


----------



## DataLifePlus

Left C said:


> That is the same impression when I got my first one. They are a few times bigger than the Cornelius and Azoo regulators that I had in the past.
> 
> Your regulator looks almost new!
> 
> I hope that you have years of service with it. SuMo has great parts and they are very helpful.
> 
> Are you going to leave the exhaust flow valve on it or are you going to remove it and its connectors from the regulator body down to the 1/4" female NPT threads on the regulator?
> 
> The reason that I am asking is because I have a Matheson 8-320 dual stage regulator somewhat like your Victor with its exhaust flow valve.


Yeah, the regulator looks pretty good. 

I'm not sure if I'm going to leave the flow valve on yet or not. To be honest, I don't really know all of the component and fittings sizes on my order from SuMo yet. So, I'll most likely be hooking it up however it will fit together. 

What did you do with the flow valve on the Matheson?



Left C said:


> Here is a new VTS-253A-1993 Victor medical grade dual stage regulator for sale.
> http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-CO2-REGUL...QQcmdZViewItem


Nice looking regulator. Probably why it went so quick. :thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> ... What did you do with the flow valve on the Matheson? ...


I haven't built the Matheson regulator yet.

For our use, it probably wouldn't matter if we used it or not. Space concerns may need to be considered though.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> ... To be honest, I don't really know all of the component and fittings sizes on my order from SuMo yet. So, I'll most likely be hooking it up however it will fit together.  ...


The regulator has a 1/4" female NPT port.


----------



## Captain Hooked

Left C said:


> That is the same impression when I got my first one. They are a few times bigger than the Cornelius and Azoo regulators that I had in the past.


 I had my 450 off earlier today and set it next to this little AquaMedic I got stuck with recently, and took a pic. You should see what a difference in size. The second stage humpback on my Victor is about the size of the ENTIRE AquaMedic reg _with gauges_.....makes it look like a toy....cause it is compared to that big brass hog. I'll put that pic up here sometime tomorrow so you all can have a laugh.


----------



## Left C

I agree. These dual stage regulators make some of the regulators used in our hobby look like little toys.

Overkill ... ? They work well for me.:thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

Wow! 3000 views!!!


----------



## adstudio3d

Well, I just got all my parts from Sumo today, tomorrow my tank gets here.
Hopefully it will be here before I take lunch so I can run over to get it filled and have everything running tomorrow afternoon =)

What pressure should i set the tank at so theres not a lot of strain on my needle valve?


----------



## Left C

I have mine set at 15 psi. Some people use 5 psi without any problems.


----------



## adstudio3d

so anywhere in between would be fine? It is going to be hooked up to my 10gal with medium light so I do not need a lot of Co2


----------



## bsmith

I have my working pressure at 15 psi aswell.


----------



## Captain Hooked

Left C said:


> I agree. These dual stage regulators make some of the regulators used in our hobby look like little toys.
> 
> Overkill ... ? They work well for me.:thumbsup:


Here's my 450D reg (which is getting a new cga' inlet) next to an Aqua Medic. I think the 'Medic has gauge envy....:redface:


----------



## bsmith

Wow I had no idea that regular regulators were that tiny.


----------



## fordtrannyman

Captain Hooked said:


> I had my 450 off earlier today and set it next to this little AquaMedic I got stuck with recently, and took a pic. You should see what a difference in size. The second stage humpback on my Victor is about the size of the ENTIRE AquaMedic reg _with gauges_.....makes it look like a toy....cause it is compared to that big brass hog. I'll put that pic up here sometime tomorrow so you all can have a laugh.





Captain Hooked said:


> Here's my 450D reg (which is getting a new cga' inlet) next to an Aqua Medic. I think the 'Medic has gauge envy....:redface:


Your right! I did get a kick out of seein' that. LMAO
That Aqua Medic is just a toy!


----------



## Left C

Me too.


----------



## Captain Hooked

I laughed the whole time I was taking those pics- could barely hold the camera steady. 

All joking aside, the "little guy" has its place. I'm about to use it on a small alum cylinder for a small tank in a small cabinet- one which the Victor could never fit into. Also, the Victor would topple such a small, lightweight cylinder.

I say if you want to buy a regulator that you can get 100% of your investment back out if, one that will squeeze the last bit of CO2 from any cylinder, one that will hold pressure like a vice, and you don't require it to fit into a shoe box- buy a dual stage Victor.


----------



## Left C

:biggrin:


----------



## cheefunk

That is seven different kinds of awesome. LOL!

I had to put of getting the rest of the parts for my CO2 set up briefly. I came across a good deal on craigslist... a Filstar xp3 and a 55 gallon tank for $80. I'm gonna sell the tank and swap my Mag 350pro for the xp3. And Christmas does help the cause either.


----------



## bsmith

I have about the same setup you will have on the 37g after you ge that XP3. Lemme tell ya, the XP's make a great reactor. 



cheefunk said:


> That is seven different kinds of awesome. LOL!
> 
> I had to put of getting the rest of the parts for my CO2 set up briefly. I came across a good deal on craigslist... a Filstar xp3 and a 55 gallon tank for $80. I'm gonna sell the tank and swap my Mag 350pro for the xp3. And Christmas does help the cause either.


----------



## cheefunk

Nice how did you go about plumbing the co2 into the filter? I'm also gonna order some lilly pipes because it's missing a lot of the stock plumbing and I don't care for the blue intake pipe (it'll clash with the black background of my aquarium) I found some on ebay for about $40.


----------



## bsmith

Like this.












cheefunk said:


> Nice how did you go about plumbing the co2 into the filter? I'm also gonna order some lilly pipes because it's missing a lot of the stock plumbing and I don't care for the blue intake pipe (it'll clash with the black background of my aquarium) I found some on ebay for about $40.


----------



## cheefunk

I wonder how well it would work if I put the co2 input closer to the filter and not in the aquarium. I think a trip to the hardware store is in order to look for parts. What kind of media do you have in the filter. I have 4 bio foam pieces(2 different density's) and a small bag of ceramic noodles, definatly not enough to fill all of the trays. What else would work for a good filter media and reactor?


----------



## bsmith

I have a XP1 so there is less room for media. I have the bio foam in the bottom, I put tome whisper filter pads/covers over that, purigen in a bag, then bio-slab.


----------



## DataLifePlus

Alright, so I received my solenoid and needle valve from SuMo (thanks guys).










But I've hit a snag in putting everything together. I'm not able to attach the solenoid to the regulator body with the fiittings SuMo provided.

Here is a picture of the fitting on the solenoid:










And here is the one on the regulator body:










I attempted to remove the fitting from the regulator body, but it's on there really tight.

Is there some sort of adapter I can purchase to connect the two? Or am I supposed to remove that fitting from the reg body? Should the solenoid attach directly into the reg body?

Thanks all,
James.


----------



## Left C

DataLifePlus said:


> ... And here is the one on the regulator body:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I attempted to remove the fitting from the regulator body, but it's on there really tight.
> 
> Is there some sort of adapter I can purchase to connect the two? Or am I supposed to remove that fitting from the reg body? Should the solenoid attach directly into the reg body?
> 
> Thanks all,
> James.


Hi James

I removed that part on the regulator body when I built mine. This leaves 1/4" female threads on the regulator body so that you can attach the fitting, solenoid and metering valve that you got from Orlando. I had to put all of my regulators in a vice to get them off. It is really tight just like you said.

Check out what Rex is showing on his "how to" in the first and second picture. He removes the part that comes attached to the regulator. http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

Left C


----------



## Left C

cheefunk said:


> I wonder how well it would work if I put the co2 input closer to the filter and not in the aquarium. I think a trip to the hardware store is in order to look for parts. What kind of media do you have in the filter. I have 4 bio foam pieces(2 different density's) and a small bag of ceramic noodles, definatly not enough to fill all of the trays. What else would work for a good filter media and reactor?


I bought some Eheim Substrat Pro for the biological filtration for my XP2.

I believe that some people use floss and/or more pads too.


----------



## DataLifePlus

Left C said:


> Hi James
> 
> I removed that part on the regulator body when I built mine. This leaves 1/4" female threads on the regulator body so that you can attach the fitting, solenoid and metering valve that you got from Orlando. I had to put all of my regulators in a vice to get them off. It is really tight just like you said.
> 
> Check out what Rex is showing on his "how to" in the first and second picture. He removes the part that comes attached to the regulator. http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm
> 
> Left C


Thanks again, Left. I figured I should remove it but after trying a few time and feeling like I was going to break something, I started having second thoughts.

~ James.


----------



## Left C

You should of seen me trying to get that particular fitting off for the first time. I was standing on the regulator with two wrenches locked together and I couldn't budge it.

One way that I've found to get it off is to put the fitting in the vice and turn the regulator counterclockwise.


----------



## adstudio3d

haha, this is funny I went to put everything together last night and having the same issue... but no vice to take it off. I'm going to bring the regulator to the gas shop when I get my tank fill and see if they can get it off for me. If not, I'll have to figure something else out.

I have one question, On the 253A I just picked up the fitting for the solenoid is not at the very bottom but on a slight angle. Is this normal or can I turn the housing somehow to make the fitting on the bottom? The bubble counter will not sit vertical but at an angle the way it is now... Will this be a problem?


----------



## Captain Hooked

DataLifePlus said:


> Thanks again, Left. I figured I should remove it but after trying a few time and feeling like I was going to break something, I started having second thoughts.
> 
> ~ James.


Hi James,

Exiting, huh?
I had better luck removing the male nipple of the _solenoid_, which then connected to the male threaded nipple of the _regulato_r. Make sense? Basically the reverse of what Left' is suggesting. Either way, you should be able to make it work easily enough. Make sure you use some dope on the threads. Look at some of Left's earlier posts in this thread for an example of the product. I found an alternative to it at my local HD that works just the same. Whatever you use, make sure it's rated for use on compressed gas fittings- especially CO2.


----------



## Captain Hooked

cheefunk said:


> I'm gonna...(snip)....swap my Mag 350pro for the xp3.


Good move. That will be a definite upgrade! :thumbsup:


----------



## Captain Hooked

bsmith782 said:


> ...regular regulators...


I'm still laughing at that.....:tongue:


----------



## cheefunk

Has anyone put the co2 intake close to the filter intake (not in the aquarium, by the canister). I like to keep everything I can out of the aquarium and what I do put in I try to make as invisible as possible. Is there parts that work best or is it a good idea?


----------



## bsmith

Im with ya on that one but that just sems like a leak waiting to happen.



cheefunk said:


> Has anyone put the co2 intake close to the filter intake (not in the aquarium, by the canister). I like to keep everything I can out of the aquarium and what I do put in I try to make as invisible as possible. Is there parts that work best or is it a good idea?


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> haha, this is funny I went to put everything together last night and having the same issue... but no vice to take it off. I'm going to bring the regulator to the gas shop when I get my tank fill and see if they can get it off for me. If not, I'll have to figure something else out.
> 
> I have one question, On the 253A I just picked up the fitting for the solenoid is not at the very bottom but on a slight angle. Is this normal or can I turn the housing somehow to make the fitting on the bottom? The bubble counter will not sit vertical but at an angle the way it is now... Will this be a problem?


I'm not following exactly what you are talking about but I think that I might be understanding what you are asking.

The bubble counter needs to be as close to vertical as you can get it. The regulator doesn't have to be upright to work. It can be horizontal, upside down and any position in between. The regulator doesn't care.


----------



## bsmith

Umm... I just notices you have no Filstar #. Whats the deal????:icon_eek:



Left C said:


> I'm not following exactly what you are talking about but I think that I might be understanding what you are asking.
> 
> The bubble counter needs to be as close to vertical as you can get it. The regulator doesn't have to be upright to work. It can be horizontal, upside down and any position in between. The regulator doesn't care.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> Here are some good deals on dual stage CO2 regulators:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/3-Victor-CO2-Re...ryZ26419QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


These 3 VTS-253C-320 regulators went for $51 plus $19.99 for shipping. That is $23.67 each including shipping. New, they are $386 each!


----------



## lovingHDTV

Left C said:


> These 3 VTS-253C-320 regulators went for $51 plus $19.99 for shipping. That is $23.67 each including shipping. New, they are $386 each!


I know I got out bid by $5!

Here is hoping that someone on the board got them and will SNS one to me


----------



## Left C

I was hoping that someone on this forum got them. They could sell 2 of them and get enough money to buy the metering valve, solenoid and the brass parts needed.


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Umm... I just notices you have no Filstar #. Whats the deal????:icon_eek:


I did inquire about it not too long ago as you know. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/17164-i-dont-ever-want-eheim-filstar-42.html#post724876


----------



## manofmanyfish

I have the Victor SR253B-320 Regulator :thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

manofmanyfish said:


> I have the Victor SR253B-320 Regulator :thumbsup:


That is great!

You are Victor Pimp #20.

Did you know that a new one lists for $299? http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=376896&WT.svl=376896


----------



## Left C

*Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish


----------



## manofmanyfish

Left C said:


> That is great!
> 
> You are Victor Pimp #20.
> 
> Did you know that a new one lists for $299? http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=376896&WT.svl=376896


No, I purchased mine on some weird online sale at less than half that price. I've never advertized the fact that I had one on any other fish forum because all I get is grief about how stupid to purchase overkill. I don't like to buy the cheapest stuff on the market, no matter if it's a regulator, a mattress, or bottle of wine. Nice to see that others share my opinion on that. Sometimes after I purchase something, I feel regret that I paid way to much (mostly happens with stock), but I've never regretted this puchase...and now...I'm PIMP #20. How good can this get!:icon_evil


----------



## Left C

:thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Left C

*Victor Dual Stage Regulator Models*












*Victor VTS250 Series / Two Stage Medium Duty Regulator*
http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html

*PRICE* ..... *Part #* .... *Model #* .. *Range* . *Gas*

$481.08 0781-3569 VTS253A-320 ?????????? from: http://www.alexgs.com/product/victor-0781-3569.html
$356.15 0781-3573 VTS253B-320 2 - 40 CO2 
$386.15 0781-3574 VTS253C-320 4 - 80 CO2 
$380.77 0781-3575 VTS253D-320 5 - 125 CO2

VTS-253A-1993 - medical grade CO2 regulators.

*Victor VTS450 Series / Two Stage Heavy Duty Regulator*
http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html

*PRICE* ..... *Part #* .... *Model #* .. *Range* . *Gas*
$456.92 0781-3974 VTS453D-320 5 - 125 CO2, N2O


----------



## bsmith

Rat traps...really?


----------



## Left C

:hihi:


----------



## Left C

Hi guys

Here are some pictures of my Victor regulators.


Front Shot










Rear Shot










VTS-253A-1993, Clippard Solenoid, Swagelok SS-31RF2 Metering Valve










VTS-253D-320, Burkert Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve, JBJ Bubble Counter










VTS-253A-1993, Clippard Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve


----------



## Ackdog

Nice fleet there. If I want to put a bubble counter on my VTS-253A, I guess because the output is oriented down from the valve body, I will have to mount it with the gauges horizontal. Or am I missing something? Also, which solenoid do you like?


----------



## Left C

Ackdog said:


> Nice fleet there.


Thanks #11. These dual stage regulators work really well. I'm sure that you will like yours very well.



Ackdog said:


> If I want to put a bubble counter on my VTS-253A, I guess because the output is oriented down from the valve body, I will have to mount it with the gauges horizontal. Or am I missing something?


It depends on your fittings and/or your needle metering valve. 

Needle/metering valves are either straight through or they have an elbow shape. The brass fittings can be straight through or elbow shaped. 

My brass VTS-253D has an elbow fitting and the Ideal metering valve has an elbow shape. This allows both the regulator and the bubble counter to be mounted in a vertical position.

*straight through metering valves*

















*elbow metering valves or angle pattern*

















*Mounting it this way will work too. The regulator will work just fine at any angle. This mounting doesn't use an elbow shaped fitting and it has an elbow shaped metering valve.*











Ackdog said:


> Also, which solenoid do you like?


Both do their job well. The Burkert solenoid is more expensive and is built with better parts than the Clippard solenoid. The Clippard has a red LED to let you know when it is on. I really like the red LED feature.


----------



## lescarpentier

Ackdog said:


> If I want to put a bubble counter on my VTS-253A, I guess because the output is oriented down from the valve body, I will have to mount it with the gauges horizontal. Or am I missing something? Also, which solenoid do you like?


I mounted mine out the back because the output hole is at an angle so I couldn't go out the side and I didn't want it coming out the front.



I used the Clippard solenoid and I'm happy with it.


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> ... I have one question, On the 253A I just picked up the fitting for the solenoid is not at the very bottom but on a slight angle. Is this normal or can I turn the housing somehow to make the fitting on the bottom? The bubble counter will not sit vertical but at an angle the way it is now... Will this be a problem?


I'm not following exactly what you are talking about but I think that I might be understanding what you are asking.



Left C said:


> The bubble counter needs to be as close to vertical as you can get it. The regulator doesn't have to be upright to work. It can be horizontal, upside down and any position in between. The regulator doesn't care.


Hi adstudio3d

Did you get your regulator assembled OK?

I just now realized what you are asking. Even though the female port on the regulator is not exactly on the bottom, but at an angle; you can adjust how far that you screw the parts on to get them in the orientation that you want. The NPT threads are tapered so that as you screw a part on it gets tighter and tighter and the seal gets tighter and tighter too. 

Left C


----------



## Ackdog

Thanks. You guys know your stuff. A right angle valve will fix me right up. I don't know if this has been mentioned already, but the gauge on my Victor goes to 4000 PSI. Thats crazy. Its also made in the USA which I like...


----------



## Left C

Captain Hooked said:


> Here's my 450D reg (which is getting a new cga' inlet) next to an Aqua Medic. I think the 'Medic has gauge envy....:redface:


There is a 450D on eBay that was rebuilt. It is for oxygen use, but it can easily be converted for CO2 use like Captain Hooked did.
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Left C

Ackdog said:


> Thanks. You guys know your stuff. A right angle valve will fix me right up. I don't know if this has been mentioned already, but the gauge on my Victor goes to 4000 PSI. Thats crazy. Its also made in the USA which I like...


Hi Ackdog

DataLifePlus's picture shows a right angle fitting and a right angle Ideal metering valve.

Left C


DataLifePlus said:


> Alright, so I received my solenoid and needle valve from SuMo (thanks guys).


----------



## Left C

Here is a list of Clippard parts that may be helpful. Some of them are already listed in the TIPS post. 
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629

These parts can all be found online at http://www.clippard.com/store/ or from your local Clippard dealer. 

*Solenoid (You will need to purchase a grounded power cord separately)*
1/8" FPT: Part # MME-2PDS-D110 - $19.70 ea. 
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110
or
1/4" FPT: Part # MME-2PQS-D110 - $19.70 ea.
http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2QDS-D110

If you do not want to wire your Solenoid, you can order the above solenoid and then order either the 6’ or 15’ DIN connector with a grounded power cord and LED so you can replace the stock DIN connector and Led.
*DIN connector with 6’ (152 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P6 - $13.00 each
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P6

*DIN connector with 15’ (381 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P15 - $22.00
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P15

*Check Valve Parts*
*Check Valve* Part # MCV-1BB - $4.71 ea. 
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MCV-1BB

You can order either of these styles of these Hose Barbs. Clippard recommends the first one, but either will work. The second one is the one that we see most often.
*Hose Barbs* Part # 11752–4-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10 - you need two hose barbs per check valve
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-4-PKG
*Hose Barbs* Part # 11752–1-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10 - you need two hose barbs per check valve
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-1-PKG

*1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Clear CO2 Proof Tubing 50 ft.*
Part # URH1-0804-CLT-050 - $20.06 ea.
http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-CLT-050

*1/4” male NPT x 1/8” female NPT reducer bushing*
Part # 4CQN-BLK - $1.03 ea
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=4CQN-BLK

*1/8” Barb x 1/8” male NPT barb to pipe fitting*
Part # 2CP4 – BLK - $0.70 ea
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=2CP4-BLK
and
Part # 11924-1-BLK - $0.48
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11924-1-BLK


----------



## SpeedEuphoria

speaking of the clippard solenoids, I bought a couple and the 1st one didnt fully close for some reason, It would leak a bubble every couple seconds out. I swapped it for a different one(same model) and it works solid like it should.

I took it apart as far as I could but cant get to the inside to see if there is anything in there hampering it. I tried blasting it with the reg set at as high as it would go (30psi) and it didnt help. 

Any suggestions before I call clippard tomarrow?


----------



## Left C

I've never had that problem with a Clippard solenoid, but I did with my AP.com (used to be called) "The Best" regulator. I sent it back to AP.com and they found some tiny bits of Teflon tape in it that was keeping the solenoid from being closed all the way. It was in there when the regulator was assembled. I don't use Teflon tape.


----------



## Bugman

Ordered my solenoid and needle valve along with fittings last night from Sumo. Should be in business one day next week. Converting my 26bow from DIY to pressurized. If I really like the setup with the Victor I will start looking for a couple of more to replace my 2 milwaukee's (which I haven't been happy with). Had to order a 2nd solenoid also because one of the ones on the Milwaukee's is bad. If I pinch it between my fingers it goes crazy turning on an off but let go and it is off.


----------



## adstudio3d

Hey Left C - Just saw your post. I haven't been on in a little while...

I got everything hooked up right, I played around with it and got it pretty close to vertical. Any looser and it will probably leak. But everything is up and running. Right now I'm only putting out about 1bps into my 10gal with 36watt CF. I already had a bit of an algae problem do to lack of Co2, so i'm trying to find an sae and a albino bristlenose to stick in there to clean everything up.

Thanks guys, this regulator is very accurate along with the ideal valve. works perfect!


----------



## Left C

Bugman said:


> Ordered my solenoid and needle valve along with fittings last night from Sumo. Should be in business one day next week. Converting my 26bow from DIY to pressurized. If I really like the setup with the Victor I will start looking for a couple of more to replace my 2 milwaukee's (which I haven't been happy with). Had to order a 2nd solenoid also because one of the ones on the Milwaukee's is bad. If I pinch it between my fingers it goes crazy turning on an off but let go and it is off.


I'm sure that you will really like the dual stage Victor regulator or any of the other dual stage regulators by Matheson and Concoa.

I read somewhere recently that the Milwaukee bubble counter increases as the CO2 cylinder starts getting empty. You won't have that problem with dual stage regulators. They hold your low pressure until the tank is practically and then the pressure will get lower than your preset pressure. NO END OF TANK WORRIES!

*EDIT:* I just found correct post. The other post was not right: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/77934-co2-system.html#post737832


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> Hey Left C - Just saw your post. I haven't been on in a little while...
> 
> I got everything hooked up right, I played around with it and got it pretty close to vertical. Any looser and it will probably leak. But everything is up and running. Right now I'm only putting out about 1bps into my 10gal with 36watt CF. I already had a bit of an algae problem do to lack of Co2, so i'm trying to find an sae and a albino bristlenose to stick in there to clean everything up.
> 
> Thanks guys, this regulator is very accurate along with the ideal valve. works perfect!


What are your algae issues?

I am sure that you will like your regulator and Ideal metering valve.

The other day, I set the Victor regulator in the picture below to run two 10g aquariums with one Ideal metering valve and two Hagen ladders. My LFS carries good quality airline valves. I'm running the needle valve into the dual airline valves. I'm using the Hagen ladders as bubble counters. I can adjust the flow with the metering valve and the two airline flow control knobs. I'm getting no leaks. I sprayed everything with a soap solution looking for leaks. I have a Red Sea drop checker in one aquarium to check the CO2 level. I have the same bubble count going into both aquariums. I run an air stone at night when the lights turn off. I'm running the CO2 24/7 for now. It is working great. It is easy to see the color in the Red Sea drop checker because it has a white background. I'm running ~ 60 bpm and the drop checker is a lime green color.

VTS-253A-1993, Clippard Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve







[/QUOTE]


----------



## bsmith

Did you say 60 bubbles per second?


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> Here is a list of Clippard parts that may be helpful. Some of them are already listed in the TIPS post.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629
> 
> These parts can all be found online at http://www.clippard.com/store/ or from your local Clippard dealer.
> 
> *Solenoid (You will need to purchase a grounded power cord separately)*
> Part # MME-2PDS-D110 - $19.70 ea.
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110
> 
> If you do not want to wire your Solenoid, you can order the above solenoid and then order either the 6’ or 15’ DIN connector with a grounded power cord and LED so you can replace the stock DIN connector and Led.
> *DIN connector with 6’ (152 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
> Part # CC-BLM-P6 - $13.00 each
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P6
> 
> *DIN connector with 15’ (381 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
> Part # CC-BLM-P15 - $22.00
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P15
> 
> *Check Valve Parts*
> *Check Valve* Part # MCV-1BB - $4.71 ea.
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MCV-1BB
> 
> You can order either of these styles of these Hose Barbs. Clippard recommends the first one, but either will work. The second one is the one that we see most often.
> *Hose Barbs* Part # 11752–4-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10 - you need two hose barbs per check valve
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-4-PKG
> *Hose Barbs* Part # 11752–1-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10 - you need two hose barbs per check valve
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-1-PKG
> 
> *1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Clear CO2 Proof Tubing 50 ft.*
> Part # URH1-0804-CLT-050 - $20.06 ea.
> http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-CLT-050
> 
> *1/4” male NPT x 1/8” female NPT reducer bushing*
> Part # 4CQN-BLK - $1.03 ea
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=4CQN-BLK
> 
> *1/8” Barb x 1/8” male NPT barb to pipe fitting*
> Part # 2CP4 – BLK - $0.70 ea
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=2CP4-BLK
> and
> Part # 11924-1-BLK - $0.48
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11924-1-BLK


If you are local to Orange County, Ca.
I found a great little distributor for Clippard Parts and products.
As well as many other items that I have found useful in the hobby.
I simply look up the part numbers I need, call them in and place a will call order.
They do have a minimum amount in most cases.
http://www.claycon.com/contact.html
Clayton Controls 
2925 College Avenue, Suite A-11
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Toll Free: (800) 235-4411
Local / International: (714) 556-9446
Fax: (714) 241-9203


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Did you say 60 bubbles per second?


bpm

The CO2 runs 24/7 and the air stones come on when the lights turn off. My drop checker is a lime green color.

I'll probably rig up a timer for the CO2 before too long so that it comes on ~ 2 hours before the lights turn on and it cuts off ~ 1 hour before the lights turn off.


----------



## bsmith

Why dont you throw a solenoid on that sucker, and how the hell do you count 60 bubbles per second?



Left C said:


> Yes.
> 
> The CO2 runs 24/7 and the air stones come on when the lights turn off. My drop checker is a lime green color.
> 
> I'll probably rig up a timer for the CO2 before too long so that it comes on ~ 2 hours before the lights turn on and it cuts off ~ 1 hour before the lights turn off.


----------



## Left C

With a high speed camcorder. 

Just kidding.

I misread your question and my post. It is ~ 60 bpm. I'll fix it.


----------



## manofmanyfish

bsmith782 said:


> Why dont you throw a solenoid on that sucker, and how the hell do you count 60 bubbles per second?


Like this...1,2,3,4.5.6.7,8.9.10.11.....59,60...Very FAST...what? are you a little slow?


----------



## bsmith

I guess so.



manofmanyfish said:


> Like this...1,2,3,4.5.6.7,8.9.10.11.....59,60...Very FAST...what? are you a little slow?


----------



## Left C

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Left C

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## adstudio3d

Left C - There are clumps of blue green algea growing in my tank, some patches on the substrate, and some on a few plants. It was on my ambulia, but after 3days with Co2 running the ambulia is almost practically clean, but other areas it is growing in denser. I also just put an SAE in the tank, so that may have something to do with that... I'm going to scrape out as much as I can, but should i be dosing fertz at this point?

I had the lights on for 2hrs a day, but now I bumped the lights up to 8hr with 1bbs Co2 in a 10Gal. After 3 days I am noticing more BBA, maybe I should bump up to 2bbs? I have to pick up a test kit or drop checker...


----------



## bsmith

Your Nitrates are bottoming out since you are dosing co2 and have good light. I would get ferts ASAP.



adstudio3d said:


> Left C - There are clumps of blue green algea growing in my tank, some patches on the substrate, and some on a few plants. It was on my ambulia, but after 3days with Co2 running the ambulia is almost practically clean, but other areas it is growing in denser. I also just put an SAE in the tank, so that may have something to do with that... I'm going to scrape out as much as I can, but should i be dosing fertz at this point?
> 
> I had the lights on for 2hrs a day, but now I bumped the lights up to 8hr with 1bbs Co2 in a 10Gal. After 3 days I am noticing more BBA, maybe I should bump up to 2bbs? I have to pick up a test kit or drop checker...


----------



## adstudio3d

I just noticed another problem today... The tank is almost empty already!!! I used non hardening dope on all connections except the main connection from the regulator to the tank. On that connection I used a rubber gasket the gas company gave me when I filled my tank. a 10lb tank in less than a week at 1bps??? this sucks


----------



## bsmith

I did the same thing on both of my tanks. The main connection from the regulator to the tank was loose on one and there was a leaky connection on the other.

Just check all connections with some soapy water after EVERY instillation it's a cheap insurance policy.



adstudio3d said:


> I just noticed another problem today... The tank is almost empty already!!! I used non hardening dope on all connections except the main connection from the regulator to the tank. On that connection I used a rubber gasket the gas company gave me when I filled my tank. a 10lb tank in less than a week at 1bps??? this sucks


----------



## adstudio3d

i guess it's one of those live and learn lessons. now I know not to take for granted that tight means no leaks... I hope theres nothing wrong with the regulator!


----------



## bsmith

Were you the one that re built theirs?



adstudio3d said:


> i guess it's one of those live and learn lessons. now I know not to take for granted that tight means no leaks... I hope theres nothing wrong with the regulator!


----------



## adstudio3d

no, i didn't rebuild it. i'm going to retighten everything down again, and hopefully there is no internal seals or anything that need to be replaced.


----------



## Left C

:icon_lol: I did the same thing when I got my first CO2 cylinder. It lasted three days. I just didn't get it tight enough. The soap solution test that bsmiith suggested is a very good thing to do. Also, use a BIG wrench so that you can get it very tight.



I've found another place where CO2 cylinders can leak. On the opposite side of the CGA-320 valve is a pressure release valve. It can leak from its threads if it isn't tight enough. Use a BIG wrench to tighten it along with using the soap solution to make sure that it is sealed..


----------



## adstudio3d

That was probably my mistake, i didnt even use a wrench on the main connection. I just tightened it to the point where the regulator was about 90degrees shy of being vertical, and then just turned the regulator to vertical which tightened it more.

Guess I should have used a wrench haha oh well, that was a $15 mistake! I just hope that pressure valve isn't leaking internally... Oh, good news though. I just ordered my Ferts! I gotta find some good cheap bottles to use for storing/dosing.


----------



## bsmith

I have a couple ~500 ml bottle you could have if you wanted them. There like this.












adstudio3d said:


> That was probably my mistake, i didnt even use a wrench on the main connection. I just tightened it to the point where the regulator was about 90degrees shy of being vertical, and then just turned the regulator to vertical which tightened it more.
> 
> Guess I should have used a wrench haha oh well, that was a $15 mistake! I just hope that pressure valve isn't leaking internally... Oh, good news though. I just ordered my Ferts! I gotta find some good cheap bottles to use for storing/dosing.


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> ... I just hope that pressure valve isn't leaking internally...


It will leak externally and not internally.


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> ... Oh, good news though. I just ordered my Ferts! ...


What did you order?

I use this dosing regimen: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html

For a GH Booster, I use Seachem's Equilibrium and for iron, I use Seachem's Flourish Iron.


----------



## Captain Hooked

If anyone is trying to figure out how to get a bubble counter into a vertical position when the reg body output is at an odd angle- you have four options:

1. Use a "remote" (wall mounted) bubble counter instead. Run your tubing to it...

2. Find a fitting that corrects the regs output angle so as to make it level (I' m guessing around 60 degrees?).

3. Mount/turn the reg body so that it is on its side (as is shown earlier in this thread) .

4. Use a 90 degree elbow fitting and tighten it so that it faces right at you or away from you (if you are looking at the front of the reg body/guages). Then you can use another 90 degree fitting (or angled metering valve) and run the rest of the associated hardware back towards the cylinder. This "U turn" set up saves a lot of room, too.

I saw where someone had their bubble counter at like a 30 degree angle the other day because he couldn't figure out how to set it up any other way....


----------



## adstudio3d

BSMITH - I can't see pictures on forums I'm at work and the firewall blocks most of them, are there marks or any measuring lines on them? If it's not to much trouble you could email a picture to me?

Left C - I just ordered some dry ferts from aquariumfertilizer.com yesterday
Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Plantex CSM+B
They shipped already!!! and were about $15 less than rexgrigg's site WOW


----------



## Left C

adstudio3d said:


> ... Left C - I just ordered some dry ferts from aquariumfertilizer.com yesterday
> Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Plantex CSM+B
> They shipped already!!! and were about $15 less than rexgrigg's site WOW


Good deal!

Is your GH low? You may need to dose a GH Booster or Seachem's Equilibrium. Sometimes just dosing Epsom Salt (Magnesium Sulfate Heptahydrate MgSO4∙7H2O) adds enough Magnesium. It is possible for someone to have a high GH, but a low Mg level.



Left C said:


> ... I use this dosing regimen: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/water-parameters/21944-_dosing-regimes_.html
> 
> For a GH Booster, I use Seachem's Equilibrium and for iron, I use Seachem's Flourish Iron.


Here is a similar dosing plan w/o extra iron.
http://www.barrreport.com/estimative-index/2819-ei-light-those-less-techy-folks.html

My water is soft and I add 3 dGH of Equilibrium at water change and I add a bit of K2SO4 midweek.


----------



## bsmith

PM me you radddress and ill take pics of them for you tonight.



adstudio3d said:


> BSMITH - I can't see pictures on forums I'm at work and the firewall blocks most of them, are there marks or any measuring lines on them? If it's not to much trouble you could email a picture to me?
> 
> Left C - I just ordered some dry ferts from aquariumfertilizer.com yesterday
> Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, Magnesium Sulfate, Plantex CSM+B
> They shipped already!!! and were about $15 less than rexgrigg's site WOW


----------



## lovingHDTV

Anyone bought one off Ebay that was bad and had to be rebuilt? There are several of the model 7-0155 two-stage gas regulator on sale now, but would like to know what the rebuild cost would be if they did not work.

I also can't find anything on the web about this particular model, anyone know anything about it?


----------



## Left C

lovingHDTV said:


> Anyone bought one off Ebay that was bad and had to be rebuilt? There are several of the model 7-0155 two-stage gas regulator on sale now, but would like to know what the rebuild cost would be if they did not work.
> 
> I also can't find anything on the web about this particular model, anyone know anything about it?


7-0155 is not a normal Victor model number as far as I know.

I asked the person selling these what the actual model number that is marked on them and I got the same answer, 7-0155. 

IMO, this person doesn't know much about them.

Rebuild cost? I don't know. Since the correct model number isn't given, we can't find that out much. 

My local welding supply (Machine & Welding Supply Co in Burlington, NC) has a person that rebuilds Victor regulators. Maybe you could give them a try and get a ball park idea. (336) 229-9755. They are closed on Saturday and Sunday.

I'm going to ask this person again to double check the part number.


----------



## Left C

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## bsmith

Man im tellin ya C more and more im appreciating the regulators I recieved from Victor.


----------



## Left C

They are better than the Ronco products. "Set It and Forget It For Months." :hihi:


----------



## lovingHDTV

So what is required to convert to CO2? It will take at least the cga-320 fitting, but anything else? Where would one get a cga-320 fitting?

I'm quite interested in getting a regulator like this.

dave


----------



## bsmith

Pretty sure thats about it.



lovingHDTV said:


> So what is required to convert to CO2? It will take at least the cga-320 fitting, but anything else? Where would one get a cga-320 fitting?
> 
> I'm quite interested in getting a regulator like this.
> 
> dave


----------



## Left C

If it is made for CO2, it will come with the CO2 CGA-320 fitting.

Check out Captain Hooked posts in this thread. He did a conversion using a VTS-450D made of O2 use to CO2 use. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/search.php?searchid=2090089&photoplog_searchinfo=1

If you are wanting to take a regulator made for a specific gas and you want to convert it to CO2, you need professional help like Captain Hooked did. Some will not work. They could freeze up, etc.


----------



## Left C

lovingHDTV said:


> Anyone bought one off Ebay that was bad and had to be rebuilt? There are several of the model 7-0155 two-stage gas regulator on sale now, but would like to know what the rebuild cost would be if they did not work.
> 
> I also can't find anything on the web about this particular model, anyone know anything about it?


I contacted the seller with this question:
"I know some people that would like to purchase these regulators, but they won't because of the odd part number.

7-0155 is not a normal Victor two stage model number.

Their part numbers for two stage regulators begin with VTS... Ones for CO2 end in -320. They are usually referred as the VTS250 series and VTS450 series.

Here are some examples of normal part numbers for the medium duty models: VTS253B-320, VTS253A-320, VTS253D-320, etc or a heavier duty model is: VTS453D-320, etc.

From J&R:
VTS-250 series - http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html
VTS- 450 series - http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html

Would you mind double checking your part number?

Thanks,"


This is the response:
"Sure, I'll look, but I'm away for the weekend and can't look till
Monday morning. I'll write again when I can look."


----------



## airborne_r6

I saw those on ebay and after about on hour I found what looks like an old part number: 0797-0155 which corresponds to a VTS-253A-320 I did this a couple nights ago and haven't been able to find it again. If I do I will post the link. I think this is what those are.


----------



## lovingHDTV

airborne_r6 said:


> I saw those on ebay and after about on hour I found what looks like an old part number: 0797-0155 which corresponds to a VTS-253A-320 I did this a couple nights ago and haven't been able to find it again. If I do I will post the link. I think this is what those are.



Well I'm going to bid on one, we'll see what happens. I also messaged the seller asking about a different model number. We'll see.


----------



## Left C

That is great! The VTS253A-320 dual stage regulators are great for our use.

I found this Airgas link with the 0797-0155 part number for $230.00.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=320825&WT.svl=320825


----------



## lovingHDTV

Left C said:


> That is great! The VTS253A-320 dual stage regulators are great for our use.
> 
> I found this Airgas link with the 0797-0155 part number for $230.00.
> http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=320825&WT.svl=320825


Bingo that must be it. I was looking at the Victor catalogs and it did look like a part number, but I could not find it.

Maybe I'll win one


----------



## airborne_r6

Left C said:


> That is great! The VTS253A-320 dual stage regulators are great for our use.
> 
> I found this Airgas link with the 0797-0155 part number for $230.00.
> http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=320825&WT.svl=320825


That was the one that I found, for some reason it didn't save in my history and I have had no luck finding it again.


----------



## Left C

I don't know how I found the link. I backed into it somehow.


----------



## Left C

There is a VTS450B oxygen regulator on eBay that the bidding is ending soon. It can be easily converted to CO2 use.
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_











Captain Hooked did some research on doing it.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/search.php?searchid=2092430&photoplog_searchinfo=1


----------



## lovingHDTV

I was looking at that one, but don't know where to find the parts. I can't imagine it wouldn't work for the kinda flow we are talking about. Any pointers to where you can buy the cga-320 connector?


----------



## Left C

You can contact Captain Hooked and ask what he did to convert his. 

You may just have to swap out the nut, stem, gaskets, etc.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> lovingHDTV said:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone bought one off Ebay that was bad and had to be rebuilt? There are several of the model 7-0155 two-stage gas regulator on sale now, but would like to know what the rebuild cost would be if they did not work.
> 
> I also can't find anything on the web about this particular model, anyone know anything about it?
> 
> 
> 
> I contacted the seller with this question:
> "I know some people that would like to purchase these regulators, but they won't because of the odd part number.
> 
> 7-0155 is not a normal Victor two stage model number.
> 
> Their part numbers for two stage regulators begin with VTS... Ones for CO2 end in -320. They are usually referred as the VTS250 series and VTS450 series.
> 
> Here are some examples of normal part numbers for the medium duty models: VTS253B-320, VTS253A-320, VTS253D-320, etc or a heavier duty model is: VTS453D-320, etc.
> 
> From J&R:
> VTS-250 series - http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html
> VTS- 450 series - http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html
> 
> Would you mind double checking your part number?
> 
> Thanks,"
> 
> 
> This is the response:
> "Sure, I'll look, but I'm away for the weekend and can't look till
> Monday morning. I'll write again when I can look."
Click to expand...

The seller just responded and this is what was said: "Dear Left C,

It really does just say "Victor, Model number 7-0155" stamped into
the brass below the gauges.

Don't know about part number, the model number stamped in the
brass is just 7-0155. There's a serial number, and Victor name,
and Max inlet info, and that's it, on the brass.

- catcherj"

This is my responce: "Dear catcherj,

That you very much for all your trouble.

Your regulators really look like the part number that I gave you. This is where we found the part number: http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=320825&WT.svl=320825

I know of one person that has bid on them already.

Thanks,

Left C"


----------



## Bugman

Note that the third one listed is NOT a Victor. I emailed him this morning also and when he replied he told me that he thought all three were the same and just discovered that the third one wasn't a Victor. Go down the page to the description and you will see that he has updated the mistake.


----------



## lovingHDTV

Yes, he updated the third one it is a Harris 9296 CGA E-4. He says it is for CO2 so it should have a CGA-320 fitting. Looks like a good regulator as well.


----------



## Left C

I've asked for front and rear pics, but I haven't received them yet.

I didn't find any dual stage Harris regulators. I found single and multi stage when I Googled.
http://www.airgas.com/browse/product_list.aspx?catID=100
http://store.weldersource.com/3000775.html


----------



## Left C

​____________________________________________________________________________________________________


*Regulator Design & Construction Features*





















​
______________________________________________________________________________________________________





This regulator article was first posted by lovingHDTV: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/78516-good-article-regulators.html


FROM: http://www.scottecatalog.com/scottt...057078ba0233fc8a85256b8f0059ad09?opendocument











*TECH & SAFETY DATA*


*How to Choose a Gas Regulator That's Right For Your Application*

*SINGLE-STAGE GAS REGULATOR*











*TWO-STAGE GAS REGULATOR*












*What is the difference between the Single Stage and Two Stage Gas Regulator?* 

Gas pressure regulators are used to reduce the pressure of gas supplied from a high-pressure cylinder of gas to a workable level that can be safely used for operating equipment and instruments. There are two basic types of gas pressure regulators: single-stage and two-stage.

Single-stage pressure regulators reduce the cylinder pressure to the delivery or outlet pressure in one step. Two-stage pressure regulators reduce the cylinder pressure to a working level in two steps. Since the performance of each is influenced by mechanical characteristics, the choice of gas regulator depends on the type of application for which it is intended.

The two most important parameters to be considered are *droop* and *supply pressure* effect.

Droop is the difference in delivery pressure between zero flow conditions and the gas regulator's maximum flow capacity. [Supply pressure effect is the variation in delivery pressure as supply pressure decreases while the cylinder empties. For most regulators, a decrease in inlet pressure causes the delivery pressure to increase.

The effect of these differences on performance can be illustrated with some examples. For instance, when a centralized gas delivery system is supplying a number of different chromatographs, flow rates are apt to be fairly constant. Supply pressure variations, however, may be abrupt especially when automatic changeover manifolds are used. In this scenario, a two-stage regulator with a narrow accuracy envelope (supply pressure effect) and a relatively steep droop should be used to avoid a baseline shift on the chromatographs.

Single-stage and two-stage gas regulators have different droop characteristics and respond differently to changing supply pressure. The single-stage regulator shows little droop with varying flow rates, but a relatively large supply pressure effect. Conversely, the two-stage regulator shows a steeper slope in droop but only small supply pressure effects.

On the other hand, if gas is being used for a short duration instrument calibration, a single-stage gas regulator with a wide accuracy envelope (supply pressure effect) but a comparatively flat droop should be chosen. This will eliminate the need to allow the gas to flow at a constant rate before the calibration can be done.

*_________________________________________________________________________________________________________*


*REGULATOR SELECTION (MATERIALS)*

*General Gas Use*

The selection of the proper gas regulator involves many factors including body and internal materials of construction. For general use, regulators of brass construction with elastomeric diaphragms will give good service in noncorrosive service where slight contamination or diffusion from an elastomeric diaphragm is not important. Brass regulators with stainless steel diaphragms prevent air diffusion and adsorption of gases on the diaphragm. This is particularly important with low concentration mixtures of hydrocarbons in which the trace component may be adsorbed on the elastomeric diaphragm.

The gas regulator must be constructed using materials suited to the application. Industrial general purpose regulators are often constructed with either Buna-N or Neoprene diaphragms. Regulators with Buna-N or Neoprene diaphragms are not suitable for GC analysis that can be affected by the diffusion of atmospheric oxygen through the elastomer diaphragm or the outgassing of monomers and dimers from the elastomer. In fact, laboratories that perform temperature programmed analysis are faced with excessive baseline drift and large unresolved peaks due to this diffusion and outgassing.

*High-Purity Gas Service*

The ideal construction for high-purity gas service is a gas regulator that has a stainless steel diaphragm. Such regulators are noncontaminating and assure satisfactory use for all applications of noncorrosive and mildly corrosive gases. Regulators for corrosive gases must be selected from those recommended with each gas listing.

A gas regulator equipped with a stainless steel diaphragm has several advantages over the elastomeric type. It does not outgas organic materials and it also prevents the diffusion of atmospheric oxygen into the carrier gas. Both Buna-N and Neoprene diaphragms are permeable to oxygen. The chemical potential of oxygen between the carrier gas and the atmosphere provides sufficient driving force for oxygen to intrude the carrier gas through a permeable diaphragm.

*Materials of Construction Summary*

The intended gas service for which the gas regulator is used must be compatible with the materials of construction that come in contact with the gas stream. The wetted materials must be compatible with the gas composition.

* o Noncorrosive (Typical Materials):* Aluminum, Brass, Stainless Steel, Buna-N, PCTFE, Neoprene, Teflon®, Viton®, Nylon
*o Corrosive (Typical Materials):* Aluminum, Stainless Steel, Monel®, Nickel, PCTFE, Teflon®


*Regulator Gauges*

Generally single and two-stage gas regulators are equipped with two gauges: a cylinder or inlet pressure gauge, and a delivery or outlet pressure gauge. The cylinder pressure gauge has the higher pressure range and is located adjacent to the inlet port. The delivery pressure gauge of lower pressure range is located adjacent to the outlet port. Although most cylinder regulators have two gauges, regulators utilized on cylinders containing liquefied gases may not have a cylinder pressure gauge because the cylinder pressure varies only with temperature as long as liquid is present in the cylinder.

*Operating Delivery Pressure Range*

Determining the delivery pressure range can be confusing. First, it is important to determine the gas pressure that is needed. Second, determine the maximum pressure the system might require (these two pressures are often the same). Third, select the delivery pressure range so that the required pressures are in the 25 to 90% range of the gas regulator's delivery pressure (a regulator's performance is at its best within this range).

*Regulator Placement (Cylinder or Line)*

Specialty gas regulator applications are divided into two types. The first is when the regulator is fastened to a gas cylinder using a Compressed Gas Association (CGA) fitting (or BS or DIN). The second application is when a regulator is located in a gas line - providing a means to further reduce the line pressure. A line regulator is identified by having the inlet and outlet opposite of each other, and by a single gauge which is in the 12 o'clock position to indicate the reduced pressure.

Buna-N® and Teflon® are registered trademarks of E.I. Dupont de Nemours & Company.
Monel® is a registered trademark of Inco Alloys International Inc. Viton® is a registered trademark of DuPont Dow Elastomers.

*__________________________________________________________________________________________________________
*
*
SELECTION CRITERIA SUMMARY*

The application determines which gas regulator to select. For example, a brass regulator should not be used in corrosive gas service. The duration of gas use time helps to identify whether a single-stage or two-stage regulator provides the best service. A single-stage is a good performer for short duration gas usage. A two-stage gas regulator performs best when it is attached to the cylinder and adjusted to the desired reduced pressure, and then remains in service until the cylinder is ready for changeout.

Consider this criteria when planning your next pressure reduction requirements.

1. Use a gas regulator for all pressure reduction requirements.
2. Use a valve for flow control.
3. Materials used in the gas regulator construction are to be compatible with the intended gas service.
4. Determine the delivery pressure requirements.
5. Do you need a cylinder regulator or a line regulator or perhaps both?
6. Determine the accessories to be included with your gas regulator.
7. Determine how you intend to use the pressure regulator. Generally a single-stage regulator is good for short duration applications; a two-stage regulator is good for long duration applications.


The safest means to reduce cylinder pressure is through a pressure reduction regulator. Scott offers over 40 regulator series with more than 120 different pressure ranges. All are intended for a specific application.

*__________________________________________________________________________________________________________*


*REGULATOR OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
*
To operate a pressure regulator, you should be trained in its proper use or be under competent supervision.

1. Use safety glasses when installing and operating gas handling equipment.
2. Mark each new gas regulator with its intended gas service and never use a regulator for more than one service. Regulators that have been used in oxygen or oxidizing gas service must not be used in another service. To ensure safety and to avoid contamination, it is strongly recommended that regulators be dedicated to one gas service.
3. Never heat or expose a cylinder or gas handling equipment to temperatures above 125°F (52°C).
4. Never use a regulator as a shut-off valve. Be certain that the gas stream is shut off at its source when not in use.
5. Be certain that the gas cylinder valve and regulator connection are clean and compatible with the service for which they are used.
6. The Scott Models 14, 27, 209, 211 and 318 series regulators have a built-in safety device to prevent over-pressurizing the second stage. Never plug, obstruct or tamper with the safety relief device.
7. When the regulator is pressurized and/or in operation, no attempt should be made to reposition or detach the regulator.
8. Do not subject the regulator to an inlet pressure greater than is recommended.
9. Gas cylinders should be moved only on carts designed for cylinders.
10. Never move a gas cylinder without its valve protection cap in place.
11. Consult your nearest Scott Specialty Gas facility for gas regulator recommendations for use with pure gases and gas mixtures.


----------



## lovingHDTV

Here is what I found on the Harris:

http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/equipment/regulatorInfo.asp?id=9296

Tech spec, specifies two-stage
http://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/pdf/techsheet/9296techdata.pdf


----------



## Left C

Those are really nice looking.


----------



## lovingHDTV

OK, I feel really dumb now. Through a comedy of errors I'm not the proud owner of a new regulator, but of 3! yes 3 regulators. Oh well, its just money. Maybe someone from here would like to buy a couple 

My wife is sitting here next to me laughing at me, calling me an Ebay newbie 

P.S - don't accidentally log into your wife's Ebay account and get confused about your bids . . .


----------



## Bugman

lovingHDTV said:


> Through a comedy of errors I'm not the proud owner of a new regulator, but of 3! yes 3 regulators.


Waiting to see if that was you. You outbid me on both of the victors. I wasn't going to go above $45 though.


----------



## Bugman

Installed my 253A last night. The parts came in from Sumo on Saturday. Man is it sweet!!! Both of my Milwaukee's can't even begin to compare, not even after I swapped out the needle valves. My complaint with the milwaukee's is I can't get a consistent bubble flow. The victor will dial right in to whatever I want and stays there. 

I will be watching for 2 more 253's to replace both of the Milwaukees!


----------



## Bugman

Just looked at the auctions again. Was worried that I forced the price up on both of them for you. My bids never even registered. You must have had a max in and someone elses bid bumped yours up.


----------



## Left C

Harris 9296 CGA E-4 dual stage regulator pictures


----------



## zzyzx85

solid looking regulator. looks a bit bulkier than a VTS-253A-320.


----------



## lovingHDTV

Wow that thing is huge!


----------



## Left C

It looks like it is in very good shape.


----------



## airborne_r6

lovingHDTV said:


> OK, I feel really dumb now. Through a comedy of errors I'm not the proud owner of a new regulator, but of 3! yes 3 regulators. Oh well, its just money. Maybe someone from here would like to buy a couple
> 
> My wife is sitting here next to me laughing at me, calling me an Ebay newbie
> 
> P.S - don't accidentally log into your wife's Ebay account and get confused about your bids . . .


Which ones did you buy? I may be interested in buying one from you.


----------



## Left C

*Here are some more for sale.*

Oxygen regulators that can be converted to CO2 use.
NEW with little time left: dual stage Victor VTS 450D Oxygen: _Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

CO2 regulators
single stage new SR4F-320 CO2: _Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

CO2 reactor
AM 1000: _Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## TheRac25

Has anyone found a place to puchase a new CGA-320 inlet besides the one on ebay, i dont support USPS monopoly on firstclass mail and subsidizing of junk mail.


----------



## Left C

TheRAC25 said:


> Has anyone found a place to purchase a new CGA-320 inlet besides the one on eBay,


Have you tried your local welding supply, fire extinguisher services, Google, etc?


----------



## plantfreak108

How can you tell the difference between single and a two stage regulator?
Sorry, new to pressurized co2.


----------



## bsmith

A single stage regulator is very thin where the regulator housing is at. 

Like this...









A dual stage has a hump on the back of the regulator body. 

Like this...











plantfreak108 said:


> How can you tell the difference between single and a two stage regulator?
> Sorry, new to pressurized co2.


----------



## Left C

plantfreak108 said:


> How can you tell the difference between single and a two stage regulator?
> Sorry, new to pressurized co2.


Here are pictures of the front and back of some of my Victor dual stage regulators. You can see the "hump" on the back that bsmith782 mentioned. That is the second stage section.


Front Shot










Rear Shot


----------



## plantfreak108

Thanks for the info, I'm learning so much here


----------



## Left C

All of us are trying to add good information to this thread.

I hope that it helps you, plantfreak108 as well as other folks.


----------



## lovingHDTV

I got my three regulators the other day. The two victors look just like LeftC middle one. The Harris is about twice as big as the Victors and has one plastic lens slightly cracked.

I've nothing else to test them with so that will have to wait until I get the rest of the hardware.

I need to add a solenoid, needle valve, bubble counter and a check valve. Any ideas what that will cost me?

thanks,


----------



## zzyzx85

lovingHDTV: I'd say another $150 for the rest of your parts, though it may be less because I used the best parts for that estimate.


----------



## Bugman

lovingHDTV said:


> I need to add a solenoid, needle valve, bubble counter and a check valve. Any ideas what that will cost me?


Send the guys at Sumo a email and they will quote you a price. The solenoid runs around $35 and I use the Fabco needle valve which runs around $25. Do you have co2 tubing, go ahead and get that also. What kind of reactor are you planning on using? I use this DIY reactor and because of the clear PVC I have a built in bubble couter.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/65191-my-diy-co2-reactor.html

You can order a bubble counter if needed. A brass one will probably run you about $25. Or you can do a DIY like the Rex Grigg version.
http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#bc


----------



## Left C

lovingHDTV said:


> I got my three regulators the other day. The two victors look just like Left C's middle one. The Harris is about twice as big as the Victors and has one plastic lens slightly cracked.
> 
> I've nothing else to test them with so that will have to wait until I get the rest of the hardware.
> 
> I need to add a solenoid, needle valve, bubble counter and a check valve. Any ideas what that will cost me?
> 
> thanks,


I'm glad that you got them. roud:

zzyzx85's "guesstimate" of ~ $150 for the rest of your parts is a very good one. 

You can get the parts that you need from SuMo, GLA, and Rex Grigg. 

Be sure to tell the company that you order from that you have a VTS253A-320 regulator(s) with a female 1/4" NPT port. You will also need the brass parts. Don't forget to order those parts. One of the responses in this thread shows the high pressure non-hardening pipe dope that I use. ( http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-3.html#post710629 )

I think that your choice of metering/needle valves will be either Ideal or Fabco. I don't believe that anyone has Swagelok valves for sale at good prices.

How to build one: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## Left C

This isn't a Victor regulator, but it is a very good two stage CO2 regulator and it is new as well: _Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## bsmith

I have the exact same regulator from the exact same seller on my nano. It has been rock solid since set up. Excellent seller too.:thumbsup:



Left C said:


> This isn't a Victor regulator, but it is a very good two stage CO2 regulator and it is new as well: http://cgi.ebay.com/CONCOA-CO2-REGU...ryZ26237QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


----------



## Left C

I believe that I have decoded the Concoa's part number: 2122301-000
From page 2: http://concoa.com/docs/catalogs/ADC3010AB_Spec Gas/200 Series/ADC3010AB_212 Series.pdf

212 Series Regulator
2: 0-60 PSIG - outlet pressure and pressure gauge
3: 0-4000 PSIG - inlet gauge
0: ¼” FPT Port
1: Standard Assembly (PSIG/kPa Gauges)
000: ¼” FPT inlet connections


----------



## lescarpentier

Left C said:


> I believe that I have decoded the Concoa's part number: 2122301-000
> From page 2: http://concoa.com/docs/catalogs/ADC3010AB_Spec Gas/200 Series/ADC3010AB_212 Series.pdf
> 
> 212 Series Regulator
> 2: 0-60 PSIG - outlet pressure and pressure gauge
> 3: 0-4000 PSIG - inlet gauge
> 0: ¼” FPT Port
> 1: Standard Assembly (PSIG/kPa Gauges)
> 000: ¼” FPT inlet connections


Great work!!

Chalk another one up for Lefty.roud:

Rep given...


----------



## Left C

Thanks Les!:icon_smil

I hope someone gets it. It is a very good chrome plated medical grade dual stage regulator plus it is new too.

The same parts that you would use on a Victor, Cornelius, etc regulator will work on the Concoa nregulator.


----------



## zzyzx85

FYI: I noticed GLA has a limited edition Victor regulator along with Fabco NVs!


----------



## Left C

That is true. Orlando told me that the price may be near ± $200.

Also, I believe that it is a single stage 2009 Victor regulator and not a dual stage regulator that many of us like to use.


----------



## Green Leaf Aquariums

They are infact Dual Stage Regulators  << Previous Next >>
Enlarge ImageVictor Dual Stage CO2 Regulator
Features:

Victor Two Stage Regulator. 
Clippard solenoid with indicator light. 
Custom Fabco NV-55 needle valve - super precise. 
Super Precise needle valve 
No end of tank dumps 
12 turns from shut off to full open 
40 threads per inch for precision metering 
Dual Check Valves to eliminate entry of moisture into internal components of regulator 
Brass bubble counter with built in check valve 
Clippard check valve built in between bubble counter and needle valve 
Dual gauge (tank volume and flow pressure / working pressure). 
UL Listed. 
Chrome plated forged brass body. 
Delrin cap bushing for smooth adjustments. 
Sintered inlet filter. 
Constant pressure supply at high output flow rates. 
Six (6) foot electrical cord. 
Pressure tested and leak tested in the USA. 
Specifications:

Installation: CGA-320 threads 
Output Pressure Gauge: 0 - 30 PSI 
Tank / High Pressure Gauge: 0 - 4000 PSI 
Max inlet pressure 3000 PSI 
$279.00

In Stock
Item 187544



Orlando


----------



## Left C

Dual Stage!!! That's great news! 

When we spoke about them a few months back, I thought that you mentioned that they would be single stage regulators because of cost reasons.

Do you have a picture of your Victor regulator's back side? I'd really like to see it. This is a picture of the front side of the Victor regulator from: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...pdate-new-regulator-green-leaf-aquariums.html











Here are some pictures of my dual stage VTS-253D-320 regulator.

Front - Burkert Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve, JBJ Bubble Counter









Rear


----------



## Green Leaf Aquariums

That photo you posted is of a different model we have in the works that is single stage.

Here is the link to our Dual Stage CO2 Regulator from Green Leaf Aquariums..
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/victor-dual-regulator.html

From the feedback we recieve from customers they seem to like them.....

Orlando


----------



## Left C

So, you didn't go with the single stage regulator that we spoke about a few months back that is shown in the above picture. 

You can tell that I haven't been to your site lately. :icon_redf

Your chrome plated regulator looks like the VTS-253A-1993 CO2 regulators that have been on eBay and some of us, including myself, have purchased and built them. It is a very good regulator. I hope that it sells very well for you. :icon_smil










Here is your regulator w/ Clippard Solenoid, Fabco Needle Valve and JBJ Bubble Counter.










Here is mine w/Clippard Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve. My Bubble Counter is mounted on the aquarium stand.


----------



## Green Leaf Aquariums

Working close with PraxAir has helped a bunch in choosing our Dual Stage regulator.
We have already been in the developmental stage of another reg due to be ready in January. So far the dual stage regs have been selling well.
Although I would not recommend to use one on a cylinder that is not supported properly.
These regs are heavy and can lead to your reg and cylinder falling over when the tank empties..

Cheers, Orlando


----------



## cwilfinger

I have a Victor VTS 253A 1993
So, am I #21?


----------



## Left C

You are #21, cwilfinger


----------



## Left C

*Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger


----------



## BrianO

*Hoping to set up a two-stage CO2 regulator*

I want to start by saying how much I appreciate all the information and effort you have put into this thread. It's very informative. 
I have a low tech planted discus tank and I recently decided it would be helpful to add CO2 to my tank. I have been reluctant to go the CO2 route for this particular tank over my concern that I could accidently kill my stock of discus. So in putting together a CO2 system, I am particularly concerned about controlling the flow rate (even to the point of over-engineering). Having said all that I would still like to put together a dual stage system at a cost somewhere around $250 (I already have 15lb CO2 tank). I am including a list of components at the end of this message with approximate cost (to see if I am reasonable in my estimated cost).

I am going to place a bid on Concoa regulator (# 2122301-000) described in your message above. The main questions that I have is do you think the Concoa regulator is comparable in quality to the Victor regulators that you are using, and if I can purchase the Concoa for somewhere around $60, would that be a good deal in your opinion?

Aqua medic 1000 Inline CO2 reactor - $70 (will double as bubble counter)
Clippard Solenoid - $20
Brass Check valve -$12
Ideal Needle Valve - $65
Dual Stage Regulator - $70

Any opinions you have would be greatly appreciated.

For 75g tank Eheim 2226 Filter with discus


----------



## bsmith

I have word from the seller of that regulator that the concoa regulator is as good if not better then the victors. I have both on my tanks and have had nothing but rock solid reliability from both since day one.

Over engeneering on a fish/planted tank is not a bad thing at all, in fact I suggest it. 



BrianO said:


> I want to start by saying how much I appreciate all the information and effort you have put into this thread. It's very informative.
> I have a low tech planted discus tank and I recently decided it would be helpful to add CO2 to my tank. I have been reluctant to go the CO2 route for this particular tank over my concern that I could accidently kill my stock of discus. So in putting together a CO2 system, I am particularly concerned about controlling the flow rate (even to the point of over-engineering). Having said all that I would still like to put together a dual stage system at a cost somewhere around $250 (I already have 15lb CO2 tank). I am including a list of components at the end of this message with approximate cost (to see if I am reasonable in my estimated cost).
> 
> I am going to place a bid on Concoa regulator (# 2122301-000) described in your message above. The main questions that I have is do you think the Concoa regulator is comparable in quality to the Victor regulators that you are using, and if I can purchase the Concoa for somewhere around $60, would that be a good deal in your opinion?
> 
> Aqua medic 1000 Inline CO2 reactor - $70 (will double as bubble counter)
> Clippard Solenoid - $20
> Brass Check valve -$12
> Ideal Needle Valve - $65
> Dual Stage Regulator - $70
> 
> Any opinions you have would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> For 75g tank Eheim 2226 Filter with discus


----------



## Left C

Please do not use tiny font. It serves no purpose here.



BrianO said:


> Aqua medic 1000 Inline CO2 reactor - $70 (will double as bubble counter)


Wouldn't you rather have a bubble counter where you can count the bubbles a bit better. Here is a bubble counter that has 1/8" female NPT that will mount on your Ideal valve.
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


BrianO said:


> Clippard Solenoid - $20


You will need a grounded three prong power cord - $3 to $5 (You may be able to order directly from Clippard. There is a link in this thread.)


BrianO said:


> Brass Check valve -$12


(You may be able to order directly from Clippard. There is a link in this thread.)


BrianO said:


> Ideal Needle Valve - $65


Shop around for best price.


BrianO said:


> Dual Stage Regulator - $70


+ $9.30 shipping.

None of your prices include shipping.

You didn't include any brass connecting parts or any non-hardening high pressure pipe joint compound for assembly.

You can get the parts from GLA, SuMo, Rex Grigg or a good plumbing supply store.

Rex builds a regulator: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm

Good luck and I hope this helps.:icon_smil


----------



## Left C

VTS450B oxygen regulator. The opening bid is $0.01: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=130277086962


----------



## BrianO

Thanks for the help and sorry about the small font. I hope one of my ebay bids comes through, one on a Victor another on Concoa. I hope I'm not bidding against anyone from this forum (if I knew I was I would cease bidding on that item). 

I like your idea of putting in a separate bubble counter (now that I see I can do it more affordably). My son effectively uses his reactor as a bubble counter, but I may have to mount my reactor in a less visable spot.


----------



## Left C

Don't worry with the font. I like to pick with folks sometimes. It makes me chuckle a bit.:hihi:

You go ahead and bid on anything that you want. That is what eBay is for.

You mentioned spending ~ $250. Orlando has a regulator for $279 that has all great parts. It uses the medical grade dual stage Victor regulator that many of us have been using. If you don't want to build one, this is a great way to go. Orlando also has all of the other parts that you need as well. He can even build you a CO2 reactor that may be cheaper than the AM reactor.
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-regulators/victor-dual-regulator.html


----------



## Left C

Here is a new dual stage Matheson 8-320 CO2 regulator starting at a very low bid of $9.95. 

It is a very good regulator as well._Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## 6t5Goat

I'm Bidding on the Concoa CO2 Reg... (winning)

Thanks for pointing it out.


----------



## Left C

I hope that you win it. bsmith782 really likes his.


----------



## Bugman

6t5Goat said:


> I'm Bidding on the Concoa CO2 Reg... (winning)


For what it's worth...............IMO never bid up an item on Ebay days before the bid closes. All you are doing it pushing the price. I never, ever bid on a item until the last couple of minutes of the auction,


----------



## Left C

Here is a very good regulator for aquarium use. I just sent a question to the seller asking if it is new or used. I will post the answer when I get it. This is a dual stage VTS253B-320 regulator.

*EDIT:* When I bought it, the gentleman told me it was new and it was advertised as brand new. I did not state that it was brand new, because I did not buy it from a gas shop/dealer.

- slim2061
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_
This is a heavy duty dual stage oxygen regulator that can be converted to CO2 use for ~ $20. You would have to change the output gauge and the stem/nut. The gauge is about $10.00 and the CGA 320 stem and nut is about $10.00. This is a Victor VTS450D Heavy Duty Oxygen Regulator.
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Left C

Here is a 'new' Victor dual stage CO2 regulator for sale on eBay. It is a model VTS253A-320.

It was relisted. End time:	Jan-20-09 05:50:22 PST

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Left C

Here are two of the chrome plated medical grade VTS-253A-1993 CO2 dual stage regulators. These are described as being in mint condition. 

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## zzyzx85

^good deals. looks like the demand for Victor regs has fallen off a bit. Must be the crappy economy as well.

I kinda wished I waited for a chrome plated one with the plastic handle. I guess they look nicer in a hospital/medical environment.

I got one of the non-chromed brass ones. Though I admit I like the industrial look of it.


----------



## Left C

Hi zzyzx85

Is your VTS253A working OK since you replaced the low pressure gauge two months ago? What other parts did you use to build your Victor regulator.

I haven't seen these chrome ones for sale on eBay in a while.

Left C


----------



## Squawkbert

Update: My DIY has been gone for about 3 weeks now.

I sat on that regulator for quite a while before I finally assembled the rest of the system -

a 10# Al tank (new, fish store in St. Charles, MO - about same $ as repainted steel tanks are going for on ebay - I think it was ~$80, shipped), a Parker 120V 150PSI rated solenoid (~$17 shipped, SherrodSurplus - ebay), and an Upchurch microflow needle valve - all PEEK, works w/ the 1/8" PEEK (CO2 proof) tubing I use, uses the same flangeless ferrules I had in my Tee from the pair of DIY I raplaced) - ~$56 (ouch) - but it works better than the $7 brass needle valve I tried before (evidently, that one was for liquids, is nearly useless in this application). My diffuser is a miniature polymer "airstone" looking thing sitting a fwe inches below my Eheim inlet, which i just recovered w/ a Fluval coarse sponge.

So, I got CO2 going on my light timer - all good quality parts, cheaper than most package deals and w/ really skinny tubing. 

My only other expenses were a 1/4" scrap of Cu tubing ($$1 or 2 at HW store for a foot) and some PTFE tape for the solenoid connections - everything else is swaged.


----------



## Left C

Hi Squawkbert

I'm glad that you got it going. It sounds like you have a very good system.

Left C


----------



## zzyzx85

Haven't gotten around to installing it yet. Took the old one off though. I'm running the rest of my DIY first. Also, moved to a new tank (20g to 55g) so that's been eating up all my time.

I've ordered parts from Rex and I'm waiting for them to come in. I wanted an Ideal NV but settled for a Fabco NV.


----------



## Left C

Does your Fabco needle valve come with barbs or 1/8" NPT?

Did you get a solenoid as well?

I'm wondering, did you order the brass parts that you will need as well?


----------



## zzyzx85

Actually, I ordered parts for both options. I couldn't make up my mind about how to attach it.

I already have a solenoid (a Burkert I found for a $1 ). I need to clean it up though. Looks like it saw calcium reactor duty.


----------



## Left C

Dang $1. I paid $60 plus shipping for a new one. It is on my VTS253D-320.


----------



## zzyzx85

I got really lucky. I have a thread in the equipment section but basically, I found a junk regulator and flow meter with this solenoid attached to it at a fish shop near my school. Took the solenoid out, dusted it off a bit, plugged it in and it clicked. So hopefully it still works. 

I contacted Burkert and they were trying to sell me a new one as they were saying mine was obsolete. Obsolete, yes, but it doesn't really matter if it can still do its job.


----------



## bsmith

Does anyone have a solenoid laying around they wouldnt mind selling to me or trading for something???


----------



## Left C

A new Clippard MME-2PDS-W110 solenoid lists for $19.70 plus shipping. Do you have a Clippard distributor near you? I ordered some catalogs from them and they called me a few weeks later. I told them that I had an aquarium business on the side and they send me some free parts. I got about $50 or so worth in free parts.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-W110


----------



## bsmith

I am just worried about hooking up the plug myself. I saw that even you had to ask a few questions about it after I did some research on the subject.


----------



## Left C

That's true. I have never worked with AC current parts until then. I'm glad that some folks gave me great info for me to follow.:icon_smil


----------



## Left C

If you do not want to wire your Solenoid, you can order the above solenoid and then order either the 6’ or 15’ DIN connector with a grounded power cord and LED so you can replace the stock DIN connector and LED.
*DIN connector with 6’ (152 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P6 - $13.00 each
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P6

*DIN connector with 15’ (381 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P15 - $22.00
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P15


----------



## bsmith

I saw that but I am not familiar with what the differences are. I figured that was what you ordered.


----------



## Left C

I haven't seen those parts. The Clippard rep gave me the part numbers.

I used the Clippard MME-2PDS-W110 solenoid and the $3 cord.




The Burkert solenoid's part number is 6011. http://www.iprocessmart.com/burkert/bukert_6011.htm

http://www.iprocessmart.com/images/Burkert/DS6011-Standard-US-EN.pdf

6011 A 5/64" FRW B-A
NPT 1/8" P Max 115 psi

NPT 1/8 5/64 0.13 0-116 0-65


----------



## bsmith

So your saying that if I use a cord from a local shop it will be harder to assemble then if I buck up for the clippard cord?



Left C said:


> I haven't seen those parts. The Clippard rep gave me the part numbers.
> 
> I used the Clippard MME-2PDS-W110 solenoid and the $3 cord.
> 
> The Burkert solenoid's part number is 6011. http://www.iprocessmart.com/burkert/bukert_6011.htm


----------



## Left C

Like I said, I haven't seen them. But ... it is my understanding that you remove the screw holding the stock smoke colored plastic DIN connector that the power cord feeds into. Then you replace that piece with either the 6' or 15' connector. The parts with the above part numbers are not shown in my Clippard catalog.

It is really easy to install after you figure out how much to strip the wires. You can't screw up bad enough that you can't fix.

Let me find my notes and you'll see that it is really easy. There are 4 screws involved. You have 3 screws that attach the wires and one screw that attaches the DIN connector.


----------



## Left C

I hope this helps, b. It is really easy. I wouldn't purchase that other connector for $10 more than a cord. 



This is the MME-2PDS-D110 solenoid : http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110










You can barely see the place where the screw is on top of the stock DIN connector that you remove. It is the smoke colored elbow part.






AaronT said:


> You have to disassemble the plastic part to get to those three screws. Feed the end of the power cord through the plastic bolt, through the rubber gasket, and then through the plastic cover in that order. Now wire in the power cord and slide everything back into place and screw the cover back down.


I found those three tiny screws and I have one more question. What color wire goes on each little terminal? 

Here's a representation of the little terminals:
_ _

l 




I took apart another CO2 regulator's solenoid to check out the wiring. The black wire is hooked up to #1 +, the white wire goes to #2 - and the green wire goes to the ground.

There's no gold and silver terminals to go by like in regular AC wiring.






mistergreen said:


> this might help for future reference
> http://www.interfacebus.com/Wire_Insulation_Color_Code.html
> 
> green - ground
> white - neutral
> black/other color - hot




epicfish posted the following image in inkslinder's thread about solenoids.


----------



## Left C

As a side note, you can order some brass check valves, assemble them and maybe save yourself some money. They retail for $12+. You can build 5 for $28.05 which equals $5.61 each plus shipping.

*Check Valve Parts*
Check Valve Part # MCV-1BB - $4.71 ea.
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MCV-1BB

You can use either set of barbs listed next. 
Clippard recommends #10-32 to 1/8” ID Single Barb Hose Fitting Part # 11752-4-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-4-PKG

or

#10-32 to 1/8” Multi Barb Hose Fitting Part # 11752-1-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-1-PKG


----------



## cheefunk

Hey guys I finally got around to ordering my solenoid, bubble counter and needle valve from SuMo the other day. It's been torture sitting on my Victor for a couple months. Just wondering how many turns do I do to open the reg? What should my gauges read? Also I was looking at the brass permaseal on greanleaf aquariums and I noticed the threaded end, does that screw into the CO2 tank?


----------



## Left C

cheefunk said:


> Hey guys I finally got around to ordering my solenoid, bubble counter and needle valve from SuMo the other day. It's been torture sitting on my Victor for a couple months.


I'll bet so.



cheefunk said:


> Just wondering how many turns do I do to open the reg?


I unscrew the low pressure adjuster counterclockwise until it is fairly loose. I do this so that the low pressure gauge reads ~ 0 psi when I open the CO2 cylinder.

When I get ready to take the regulator off, I again turn the adjuster so that I have ~ 0 psi.

I do this because I have blown the low pressure gauges on a Cornelius regulator twice. I don't know if the Victor will blow the gauge, so I just do it. 



cheefunk said:


> What should my gauges read?


- High Pressure: ~ 800 psi to 900 psi when full. More info: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/p...ttle-pressure-relation-room-temperatures.html

Low Pressure: This is your choice. Some people run 5 psi, I run 15 psi. You can set it anywhere you want that is between its operating range.



cheefunk said:


> Also I was looking at the brass permaseal on greanleaf aquariums and I noticed the threaded end, does that screw into the CO2 tank?


Yes, but not all CO2 cylinders have threads.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> Here are two of the chrome plated medical grade VTS-253A-1993 CO2 dual stage regulators. These are described as being in mint condition.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-CO2-REGU...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-CO2-REGU...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:0|293:1|294:50


Did anyone here get these regulators? They sure didn't last long.


----------



## Coconutmuffn

> Did anyone here get these regulators? They sure didn't last long.


I was lucky enough to snag one. Once It comes in, I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions about how to set it up since I'd like to use it on three tanks.


----------



## Left C

Coconutmuffn said:


> I was lucky enough to snag one. Once It comes in, I'm sure I'll have plenty of questions about how to set it up since I'd like to use it on three tanks.


Hi Coconutmuffn

I see that this is your first post here. Welcome!

I'm sure that you will really like that regulator. It is a fine product. Since it is chrome plated, you can keep it nice looking for a long time.

I have a few questions to ask you:
- What is your budget to set it up to run on three aquariums?
- Have you decided on which brand of needle/metering valves (Clippard, Fabco, Swagelok, Ideal, etc.)?
- Are you going to have a solenoid? if so, what brand (Clippard, Burkert, etc.)
- How are you planning on doing your bubble counters?
- What diffusers are you going to use in your aquariums?
- There are several different ways to set up a manifold. These companies have various CO2 products including manifolds. You may want to look at them. Then you can PM them with questions that you may have.
http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/index.htm
http://www.sumoregulator.com/
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/

I went a cheap route to send CO2 to two 10g fry and small plant grow out aquariums. I am using Hagen ladders for bubble counters and diffusers. I found a cheap plastic gang valve made by Hagen called an Elite that is 'guaranteed' not to leak at pressures up to 5 psi. I set my regulator on 5 psi. Then I adjusted my metering valve on the regulator and the flow adjusters on the gang valve until I got the bubble rate that I wanted. I have drop checkers in each aquariums. The solenoid is on a timer and it cuts on and off with the lights. An air pump cuts on and off at opposing times to the lights. The drop checkers are a lemon-lime color when the CO2 cuts off. Here is the three way gang valve that is similar to mine.
http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011790020101

This is the regulator that I am running the two aquariums with. VTS-253A-1993, Clippard Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve


----------



## Coconutmuffn

> I have a few questions to ask you:
> - What is your budget to set it up to run on three aquariums?
> - Have you decided on which brand of needle/metering valves (Clippard, Fabco, Swagelok, Ideal, etc.)?
> - Are you going to have a solenoid? if so, what brand (Clippard, Burkert, etc.)
> - How are you planning on doing your bubble counters?
> - What diffusers are you going to use in your aquariums?
> - There are several different ways to set up a manifold. These companies have various CO2 products including manifolds. You may want to look at them. Then you can PM them with questions that you may have.


I currently run a DIY CO2 on my 37 and am switching to pressurized for a more consistent CO2 level as well as adding CO2 to my 16 and (hopefully soon) Mini S. I priced a victor setup from GLA new at ~$500, so as long as I can keep it under that, I'm happy. 

I was looking at the splitter manifolds with bubble counters, like this: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-manifolds-splitters/triple-manifold-bubble-counter.html and was wondering if these are sufficient built in needle valves or whether I should look for a bare manifold to add Fabco's (for example) and brass bubble counters to. Any suggestions are welcome.

For the solenoid, I'm probably going to go with the Clippard. 

As for diffusers, I currently use a Hagen ladder, but I'd like something a little smaller so I'm looking to go with a glass/ceramic: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-diffusers/diffuser-3000.html

One last newbie question (for this post anyway), Is it common practice to use the air pump during dark hours with a solenoid? I was under the impression that I could finally get rid of the Midnight Bubble Factory with a pressurized system.


----------



## cheefunk

Thanks Left C. So you are opening the reg before the CO2. Is the valve on the CO2 tank what we use to adjust the PSI or do I tighten up the reg after the CO2 has been opened?


----------



## Left C

Coconutmuffn said:


> I currently run a DIY CO2 on my 37 and am switching to pressurized for a more consistent CO2 level as well as adding CO2 to my 16 and (hopefully soon) Mini S. I priced a victor setup from GLA new at ~$500, so as long as I can keep it under that, I'm happy.


Are you going to build it yourself? If not, what are your plans? 



Coconutmuffn said:


> I was looking at the splitter manifolds with bubble counters, like this: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-manifolds-splitters/triple-manifold-bubble-counter.html and was wondering if these are sufficient built in needle valves or whether I should look for a bare manifold to add Fabco's (for example) and brass bubble counters to. Any suggestions are welcome.


Those are nice looking. I've never used them though. They are currently out of stock. You may want to ask some people about them and also ask Orlando about them.

The manifold itself is listed as being in stock. By the time you add three bubble counters, You'll have $125 in it vs. $100 for it already assembled.

Some type of manifold holding precision metering valves and bubble counters with a check valve before and after the bubble counter would be nice.



Coconutmuffn said:


> For the solenoid, I'm probably going to go with the Clippard.


I have Clippard and Burkert solenoids. Both work well, but the Clippard is 1/2 the price of the Burkert plus the Clippard solenoid has a red LED and the Burkert doesn't.



Coconutmuffn said:


> As for diffusers, I currently use a Hagen ladder, but I'd like something a little smaller so I'm looking to go with a glass/ceramic: http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/co2-diffusers/diffuser-3000.html


What type of filter do you have? 



Coconutmuffn said:


> One last newbie question (for this post anyway), Is it common practice to use the air pump during dark hours with a solenoid? I was under the impression that I could finally get rid of the Midnight Bubble Factory with a pressurized system.


Some folks do and some folks don't. If your aquarium pearls a lot and you have good O2, it shouldn't be needed. Sometimes it depends on how many animals and plants that you have.


----------



## Coconutmuffn

> Are you going to build it yourself? If not, what are your plans?


Yes, I will be building this myself. I'm hoping to do better than that figure for a build-yourself budget!



> What type of filter do you have?


The 37 is running an Eheim 2026 and the 16, an Eheim ECCO 2232. 

Thank you for all the helpful feedback Left C, I will surely followup the inquiry on the triple manifold.


----------



## plantfreak108

Quote:
Did anyone here get these regulators? They sure didn't last long.
I snagged the other one:icon_smil


----------



## Left C

cheefunk said:


> Thanks Left C. So you are opening the reg before the CO2.


It is backwards from what you are thinking. It's confusing. 

When you turn the knob/handle counterclockwise, you are closing it so that there is less pressure.

When you turn the knob/handle clockwise, you are increasing the low pressure setting.




cheefunk said:


> Is the valve on the CO2 tank what we use to adjust the PSI or do I tighten up the reg after the CO2 has been opened?


The valve on the CO2 tank just opens and closes the tank. Counterclockwise opens it and clockwise closes it.

The knob/handle on the regulator is what controls the low pressure setting. Then the needle/metering valve controls the flow from the regulator.


----------



## Left C

plantfreak108 said:


> I snagged the other one:icon_smil


That's great! :thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

Coconutmuffn said:


> Yes, I will be building this myself. I'm hoping to do better than that figure for a build-yourself budget!


It is basically fun building a few. I like it.



Coconutmuffn said:


> The 37 is running an Eheim 2026 and the 16, an Eheim ECCO 2232.


 Would you want an external glass diffuser for the ECCO? It uses 1/2" output tubing. Craig has a used one for $105. He has other glass parts that may interest you.

Cal Aqua Inline 13mm Diffuser- $105.00: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/swap-n-shop/80177-co2-glassware-etc-sale-me-upgrading.html



Coconutmuffn said:


> Thank you for all the helpful feedback Left C, I will surely followup the inquiry on the triple manifold.


You are very welcome.

I can't believe how well my cheapo Hagen gang valve is working.


----------



## cheefunk

> It is backwards from what you are thinking. It's confusing.
> 
> When you turn the knob/handle counterclockwise, you are closing it so that there is less pressure.
> 
> When you turn the knob/handle clockwise, you are increasing the low pressure setting.


That is the missing piece of info, now it makes sense. thanks.


----------



## bsmith

Check valves? Is this an attemp for me to be able to recoup the money I spend on the Clippard power cord?

Im going to call them on Monday or tomorrow if they are open. 

Thanks for all the info C. :thumbsup:



Left C said:


> As a side note, you can order some brass check valves, assemble them and maybe save yourself some money. They retail for $12+. You can build 5 for $28.05 which equals $5.61 each plus shipping.
> 
> *Check Valve Parts*
> Check Valve Part # MCV-1BB - $4.71 ea.
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MCV-1BB
> 
> You can use either set of barbs listed next.
> Clippard recommends #10-32 to 1/8” ID Single Barb Hose Fitting Part # 11752-4-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-4-PKG
> 
> or
> 
> #10-32 to 1/8” Multi Barb Hose Fitting Part # 11752-1-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10
> http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-1-PKG


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Check valves? Is this an attemp for me to be able to recoup the money I spend on the Clippard power cord?
> 
> Im going to call them on Monday or tomorrow if they are open.
> 
> Thanks for all the info C. :thumbsup:


You are welcome, but next time it will be $2 per hour. :icon_lol:


----------



## bsmith

At that rate you would own my pp account!!!

Seriously though, whats the deal with the check valves?



Left C said:


> You are welcome, but next time it will be $2 per hour. :icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

cheefunk said:


> That is the missing piece of info, now it makes sense. thanks.


I know what you mean. :icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> ... Seriously though, whats the deal with the check valves?


Business Math 101.



Left C said:


> As a side note, you can order some brass check valves, assemble them and maybe save yourself some money. They retail for $12+. You can build 5 for $28.05 which equals $5.61 each plus shipping.


You can pay $60+ for five or $28 for five plus shipping from either place. Take your pick.


----------



## bsmith

Who needs all those check valves?



Left C said:


> Business Math 101.
> 
> You can pay $60+ for five or $28 for five plus shipping from either place. Take your pick.


----------



## Left C

You can pay $24 to $26 or more plus shipping for two or $13.92*** plus shipping for two. Take your choice.

***The price is calculated using two check valve at $4.71 each plus one bag of 10 barbed fittings for $4.50.


----------



## bsmith

I get that. 

What do you think I have going on here co2 injected tanks in my kitchen, bedroom, bathroom AND garage? 



Left C said:


> You can pay $24 to $26 or more plus shipping for two or $13.95 plus shipping for two. Take your choice.


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> I get that.
> 
> What do you think I have going on here co2 injected tanks in my kitchen, bedroom, bathroom AND garage?


I have four and I'm going to add two more. I love being able to retire 14 years early.:icon_smil


----------



## bsmith

You da' Mann! :icon_smil



Left C said:


> I have four and I'm going to add two more. I love being able to retire 14 years early.:icon_smil


----------



## lizziotti

Ok I'm thinking about taking the leap but I have some questions for the Victor experts.

Is SR253C-320 a dual stage regulator?

What's the difference between vts 253a-320 and VTS253A-1993 I know the VTS253A-1993 is a medical grade but I guess I don't know what that means. Thank you so much I have already learned so much from this thread.


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Ok I'm thinking about taking the leap but I have some questions for the Victor experts.
> 
> Is SR253C-320 a dual stage regulator?
> 
> What's the difference between vts 253a-320 and VTS253A-1993 I know the VTS253A-1993 is a medical grade but I guess I don't know what that means. Thank you so much I have already learned so much from this thread.


The dual stage regulators part numbers start with VTS. I call it "Victor Two Stage." The SR series are single stage and I call it "Single (Stage) Regulator. This isn't technically correct. It is just how I keep them straight.

Go to the Main Menu at http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html . Now scroll down on the left side until you get to *Regulators*. Click on "Valve Design." You will see the differences between Victor's single and two stage regulators.

Here is a very good article about single and two stage regulators: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-20.html#post743710

On the same *Regulators* column, click on VTS250 in the 2 Stage Medium Duty Regulators folder and the VTS450 in the 2 Stage Heavy Duty Regulators folder for current model info. You can also click on the various SR series regulators for info about them.

The Victor VTS253A-1993 regulators on eBay are medical grade chrome plated CO2 regulators. They are chrome plated because they are easier to keep clean than the unchromed models. Maybe, to be technically correct, they may be named VTS-253A-320-1993 but I really don't know for sure.

I would like to suggest that you use dual stage regulators whether they are made by Victor, Concoa, Matheson, etc. These are the ones better than Ronco products. "Set it and forget it for months." :smile:


----------



## lizziotti

Oh thanks thats a great way to remember them. I keep seeing different model #'s and it gets confusing. so is that the only difference between the 253a-320 and VTS253A-1993 is that it's easier to clean? Thanks sorry if anything was answered before I read through 26 pages my head was swirling at the end! I definitely want the 2 stages I like that you don't have to worry about end of the tank dump. I just hope I can figure out how to put this together!

Also I've read that alot of people actually run their co2 24/7 So if I decided to this I could skip the solenoid or is this just plain stupid? Again thanks.


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Oh thanks thats a great way to remember them. I keep seeing different model #'s and it gets confusing.


 It helps me keep them separate.

Victor has other type of regulators, but I believe that the VTS and SR models are the ones that are being used for aquarium hobbyist use. I could be wrong though.



lizziotti said:


> so is that the only difference between the VTS253A-320 and VTS253A-1993 is that it's easier to clean? Thanks sorry if anything was answered before I read through 26 pages my head was swirling at the end! I definitely want the 2 stages I like that you don't have to worry about end of the tank dump. I just hope I can figure out how to put this together!


One of the techs told me that the reason that the medical regulators are chrome plated is that they can be cleaned easier. I wonder if some of the internal parts are different. I really don't know. I'll probably ask Thermadyne, the parent company of Victor, that question.

Many of us like the two stage models. I probably want ever use the single stage models again.

I really suggest that you do read all the posts and links in that thread. There is a lot of good info and helpful info too. There is even a part about building them.



lizziotti said:


> Also I've read that a lot of people actually run their co2 24/7 So if I decided to this I could skip the solenoid or is this just plain stupid? Again thanks.


Plants, fish, critters and some bacteria breath O2 and exhale CO2 24/7. Plants only need CO2 when the lights are on so that they can undergo photosynthesis. You don't need to add CO2 if the plants can't use it.

I believe that the folks that don't use a solenoid is because it is one less part to break and CO2 gas is relatively inexpensive.

All of my regulators have a solenoid. Some are controlled by a timer and some are controlled by pH controllers.


----------



## Bugman

Two reasons to run a solenoid, IMO. Yes Co2 is relatively cheap. It's $10 to fill my 5lb tanks. 3 tanks is $30. Using the solenoid decreases the cost by half, so it is $30 every 4 months instead of $30 every 2 months. The other reason is my time. Using the solenoid doubles the life of the tank so instead of having to get each of the tanks filled every 2 months its every 4 months. Of course the 3 tanks run out at different times so thats a lot of trips to get them filled reduced by half. The solenoid easily pays for itself in less than a year.


----------



## lizziotti

Oh good points thank you solenoid it is! Now I am way a head of myself here but is there anything special I need to know about hooking these particular regulators up to the tank after it's all together. I'd hate to ruin it after all that work!


----------



## Left C

I've found this to be mostly true when installing a CO2 regulator that has adjustable low pressure. Unscrew the knob, screw or handle counterclockwise until it is very loose. You are trying to make sure that the low pressure setting is at or near 0 when you first turn the CO2 cylinder on. This helps to avoid blowing the low pressure gauge. Now you can set your low pressure.


----------



## zzyzx85

alright, just got an email from Rex and my parts will be in the mail tomorrow. a little late but better than never.

Now I need to get my CO2 filled up, put the low pres gauge onto the reg, and assemble when the parts get here.

Left C: Tell me if I'm getting this right: you screw the handle out before you turn on the CO2 tank valve, then turn the regulator handle back in to adjust the low pressure? Is this done while the solenoid is plugged in or unplugged?


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> ... Left C: Tell me if I'm getting this right: you screw the handle out before you turn on the CO2 tank valve, then turn the regulator handle back in to adjust the low pressure? Is this done while the solenoid is plugged in or unplugged?


- Screw the handle almost all the way out so that there will be no or just a tiny bit of CO2. Keep the solenoid is off.
- Open the CO2 cylinder somewhat slowly while you are watching your gauges and other parts.
- Set your low pressure setting.
- Adjust your bubble counter with the solenoid on.
- Check for leaks.

When you need to swap out the CO2 cylinder, just do the above steps somewhat in reverse order.
- Close the CO2 cylinder.
- Cut the solenoid off.
- You don't have to do anything with the needle gauge.
- Set your low pressure to 0 or near 0.
- Remove the regulator.


----------



## Left C

Did anyone win the VTS253A-320 that went for $57.30? Was the ashtray included as well?
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Bugman

zzyzx85 said:


> Left C: Tell me if I'm getting this right: you screw the handle out before you turn on the CO2 tank valve, then turn the regulator handle back in to adjust the low pressure?


If you don't you might find yourself buying a second replacement low pressure gauage. That would certainly stink.


----------



## lizziotti

Left C said:


> Did anyone win the VTS253A-320 that went for $57.30? Was the ashtray included as well?
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200298489975


 
It wasn't me thanks to a sniper. Are you out there Sniper :icon_evil! Hope it reeks of smoke! Oh Well all is fair in the ebay game I guess I'll keep looking:icon_cry:


----------



## Left C

I wonder if you can call a hospital's maintenance dept and see if there are extra CO2 regulators laying around?


----------



## bsmith

Maybe as a start. Im sure you would have to talk to someone in their office to get an actual answer. or THEY WOULD FEEL AS IF IT WAS TOO BIG OF ALIABILITY TO SELL TO PPL OFF THE STREET.

Disregard the caps.

BTW, I just ordered a Solenoid from Rex. I needed ferts too.



Left C said:


> I wonder if you can call a hospital's maintenance dept and see if there are extra CO2 regulators laying around?


----------



## zzyzx85

just got my Fabco NV from Rex. Nice looking piece of metal. Need to get my bottle filled but I'll let my DIY run out first.


----------



## bsmith

Get it filled asap. Otherwise it will keep you up at night thinking about all of the hassles that will go away once you get the pressurized system set up. 



zzyzx85 said:


> just got my Fabco NV from Rex. Nice looking piece of metal. Need to get my bottle filled but I'll let my DIY run out first.


----------



## BrianO

*Solenoid*

This is probably a dumb idea but has anyone heard of this particular solenoid (call a Parker) on sale for 12.49 (plus $5 shipping) on ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=300287386031
I’m not sure how you would get a hold of a power cord, or if it would even work. I should probably just order a Clippard.


----------



## lizziotti

Left C said:


> I wonder if you can call a hospital's maintenance dept and see if there are extra CO2 regulators laying around?


I haven't tried this yet and there hasn't been anymore listed on ebay darn it. Is there any other places that may have some? Thanks!


----------



## Left C

Auctions, Liquidations, etc.


----------



## Gatekeeper

Welding supply stores. I saw one there for 50 bucks.


----------



## lizziotti

Yeah I won an auction from that guy you mentioned "left c"
It's not a victor so I guess I can't join your club. I was having no luck finding one and I'm afraid I was getting anxious. I hope everyone will still help me set this up though. :biggrinlease I'm going to need it. For instance this is what I got.

This Auction is for: *(1) CO2 GAS REGULATOR *Adjustable Dual Stage Gas Regulator *(MAX) Inlet 0-4000 psi *Outlet 0-60 psi WITH INCLUDED 1/4" VALVE/BARB *Includes CGA Tank connection fitting with washer. *BRAND NEW *Mfg. CONCOA MODEL# 2122301-000

I'm not sure if I need the barb/valve? Do I? oh boy I hope I'm not getting in over my head!


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Yeah I won an auction from that guy you mentioned "left c"
> It's not a victor so I guess I can't join your club. I was having no luck finding one and I'm afraid I was getting anxious. I hope everyone will still help me set this up though. :biggrinlease I'm going to need it. For instance this is what I got.
> 
> This Auction is for: *(1) CO2 GAS REGULATOR *Adjustable Dual Stage Gas Regulator *(MAX) Inlet 0-4000 psi *Outlet 0-60 psi WITH INCLUDED 1/4" VALVE/BARB *Includes CGA Tank connection fitting with washer. *BRAND NEW *Mfg. CONCOA MODEL# 2122301-000
> 
> I'm not sure if I need the barb/valve? Do I? oh boy I hope I'm not getting in over my head!


Isn't your regulator like this one? We will help you.










bsmith782 has one and I believe that he likes it very well.

I understand that the Concoa is a very good regulator. You won a chrome one that is a dual stage regulator as well.

Most people remove that barb plus the extra valve. When they are removed, you will have a 1/4" NPT port. Then you add the other parts.

You will need to decide on which needle valve or metering valve that you want and if you want a solenoid. Many people use Clippard solenoids, but Burkert solenoids are good too. One more decision, do you want a bubble counter attached to the regulator or do you want one this is not attached. After you have done this, you can get the brass parts that you will need.

This article may help you: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## lizziotti

yes that's it! There's one more left if anyone wants it. I can't thank you enough "left c" you really have been such a help. I was reading that you used hagen ladders on some of your tanks. I actually have 2 in mine right now using DIY yeast method. So do you think I could just use one of those in my 37g instead of a bubble counter and diffuser? Or is that not such a good idea? Thank you again for taking so much time with me.

Too bad about the valve I was hoping it would save me from having to buy something oh well. Now I just hope I don't break anything trying to get it off!


----------



## bsmith

Here is how mine is set up.


----------



## zzyzx85

this is what I have. so so tempted to give it a test run...


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> yes that's it! There's one more left if anyone wants it. I can't thank you enough "left c" you really have been such a help. I was reading that you used hagen ladders on some of your tanks. I actually have 2 in mine right now using DIY yeast method. So do you think I could just use one of those in my 37g instead of a bubble counter and diffuser? Or is that not such a good idea? Thank you again for taking so much time with me.
> 
> Too bad about the valve I was hoping it would save me from having to buy something oh well. Now I just hope I don't break anything trying to get it off!


When you set it up and the pressurized CO2 bubbles that are coming off of your Hagen ladders are very tiny and/or being very tiny or nonexistant when they reach the surface, you are getting good diffusion. If not, you may want to try something else. Since you have pressurized CO2, you can place the ladders very low in you aquarium to improve their efficiency. 

You can see that bsmith kept the barb plus the valve on the regulator to set his system up. You may want to go the same route. There are many ways to "skin the cat" when it comes to setting up your CO2 system.


----------



## lizziotti

Oh Ok I'll try the ladder first I guess I can always change it. I've heard of somebody using two connected not sure how that is or how to do it. How is that valve working for you bsmith? Thanks for posting the picture that helps alot!


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Oh Ok I'll try the ladder first I guess I can always change it. I've heard of somebody using two connected not sure how that is or how to do it. ...


I suggest that you use both ladders. Connect them with equal lengths of tubing from a gang valve, splinter, etc. I use a Hagen Elite gang valve that is good for up to 5 psi before they leak. Be sure to use check valve(s) so the water doesn't get into your regulator/solenoid, etc.

I have a solenoid and a good needle valve on my regulator that provides a controlled CO2 supply to the Hagen Elite gang valve and ladders.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/78872-cheap-co2-needle-valves-multible-aquariums.html


----------



## Left C

lizziotti mentioned that there is another Concoa regulator on eBay. It is a brand new chrome plated model 2122301-000 CO2 regulator. mrmotorcycles has it listed.

Here is a bit more info. It is easy to decode the part number: http://concoa.com/docs/catalogs/ADC3010AB_Spec Gas/200 Series/ADC3010AB_212 Series.pdf


----------



## lizziotti

Thanks I'll do that with the ladders, great idea! Bsmith are you not using a solenoid than? Is there a way to add it without removing the barb? I'm so scared I'm going to break something removing it. I take it you can't just use the valve that's already attached to it also?


----------



## Left C

One way that you can do it is to use an AM solenoid. It has tubing connectors. http://www.aquabuys.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=mi_ma955&Category_Code=












Also, you can use a Clippard or Burkert solenoid with two fittings that have a 1/8" male NPT on one side and a barb on the other side.


----------



## bsmith

I have a solenoid on the way from rexgrigg.com.
Using the valve that is on the side of the regulator to turn off the co2 every night would work but would be a pain. Right now I just have the co2 set high enough that it will not harm the shrimp at night. After the solenoid installed I can really crank the gas up because it will turn off at night.


----------



## lizziotti

left c: Oh thanks I was looking for a selenoid like that. Do you I get leaks that way though? 
bsmith: How do you plan on attaching the selenoid from rex?

Ok one more ? I'm sorry. if I chose to remove the barb would this needle valve work?
1 SWAGELOK 1/4" METERING VALVE SS-1RS4 Item number: 160311750360 

thanks again I could have never pulled this off alone!


----------



## bsmith

I'll just get fitting with 2 male NTP sides so I can screw one into the regulator and then screw on the regulator.


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> left c: Oh thanks I was looking for a selenoid like that. Do you I get leaks that way though?
> bsmith: How do you plan on attaching the selenoid from rex?
> 
> Ok one more ? I'm sorry. if I chose to remove the barb would this needle valve work?
> 1 SWAGELOK 1/4" METERING VALVE SS-1RS4 Item number: 160311750360
> 
> thanks again I could have never pulled this off alone!


Your SS-1RS4 is for high flow use. The bubble rate would be much too high. Go for a low Cv (Flow Coefficient) number. This one has 0.37 Cv.
http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-1RS4

You need to use low-flow metering valves with a Cv up to 0.004, but don't get one that is very low: http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?SEARCH=/id-10002278/type-1
e
Some medium flow valves will work too.

I really don't know what the Cv range is that we can use. Maybe someone can help.

This article explain things a bit.
http://fins.actwin.com/aquatic-plants/month.200009/msg00305.html


----------



## lizziotti

Oh ok I see this is over my head again I'll just get one from one of the sites already mentioned. I just thought I could find one on ebay. or I'll just do everything inline with a Fabco Needle valve and the selenoid you mentioned. But honestly am I better off removing the barb for a better valve and selenoid because if it really makes a difference I will. I don't want to have a great regulator and than not hook it up right. Thanks again.


----------



## lizziotti

update-ok I think I will try to remove the barb and connect everything. I contacted sumo and I guess they are going to start offering packages for people who want to build there own regs. It'll come with all the fittings and tubings cool huh? Well thanks everyone I'll send pics after I get everything together.


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> ... I contacted sumo and I guess they are going to start offering packages for people who want to build there own regs. It'll come with all the fittings and tubing cool huh? ...


SuMo is great to work with. Sergio and Mike really know their stuff.

You can also get parts from Rex Grigg. I don't know if GLA is still selling regulator parts.


----------



## Left C

*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt
#30 - lizziotti 
#31 - MarkMc 
#32 - tazdevil
#33 - Darkblade48
#34 - sunfire99
#35 - mrkookm
#36 - PRESTON4479


----------



## plantfreak108

I want to be a member! Does this mean I'm number 22?


----------



## Left C

plantfreak108 said:


> I want to be a member! Does this mean I'm number 22?


It sure does. I'll add your name to the above member list in post #427.


----------



## zzyzx85

wait...plantfreak108 does have a Victor regulator, right? :tongue:

I had a little free time today and I hooked up the Victor to the cylinder. Function checked it and it all works. Still need to leak test it before I put it into op. yeesh, wished my DIY would run out already .


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> ... I had a little free time today and I hooked up the Victor to the cylinder. Function checked it and it all works. Still need to leak test it before I put it into op. yeesh, wished my DIY would run out already .





zzyzx85 said:


> this is what I have. so so tempted to give it a test run...


That is good news!

I can't tell if you have a needle valve. If you don't, these cheap Hagen Elite gang valves will function like one if you keep your regulator below 5 psi.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/78872-cheap-co2-needle-valves-multible-aquariums.html


----------



## plantfreak108

Of course I have a victor regulator. It came yesterday, but I still need to get some parts in order to go pressurized. I can't wait


----------



## Left C

plantfreak108 said:


> Of course I have a victor regulator. It came yesterday, but I still need to get some parts in order to go pressurized. I can't wait


I'm sure that you will really like your chrome medical grade dual stage regulator.


----------



## zzyzx85

Left C said:


> I can't tell if you have a needle valve. If you don't, these cheap Hagen Elite gang valves will function like one if you keep your regulator below 5 psi.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/78872-cheap-co2-needle-valves-multible-aquariums.html


I do have a needle valve, just not attached. I plan on running it (fabco nv-55) inline.


----------



## Left C

Ok.


----------



## cheefunk

Got a question. I just got in my solenoid, nv, bubble counter, etc... I put it together and used pipe dope on all of the connections. Do all of the connections need to be as tight as I can get them or is it ok if I leave them out just slightly to get them in the right position? I'm worried about a leak between the solenoid and the elbow coming out of the reg. My fear is that if I tighten it more it will make my bubble counter sit at an incorrect angle or upside down. I suppose I could get a tank and check it tomorrow.


----------



## Left C

That is how I built mine. The NPT threads get tighter and tighter as you screw them on and the high pressure pipe joint compound seals the parts and helps to prevent leaks.

"The taper on NPT threads allows them to form a seal when torqued as the flanks of the threads compress against each other, as opposed to parallel/straight thread fittings or compression fittings in which the threads merely hold the pieces together and do not provide the seal. However a clearance remains between the crests and roots of the threads, resulting in a leakage around this spiral. This means that NPT fittings must be made leak free with the aid of thread seal tape or a thread sealant compound. (The use of tape or sealant will also help to limit corrosion on the threads, which otherwise can make future disassembly nearly impossible.)"
From: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_pipe_thread


----------



## cheefunk

Most excellent, thank you.


----------



## fish-aholic

Are there any good deals on victor regulators on ebay right now?


----------



## Left C

fish-aholic said:


> Are there any good deals on victor regulators on ebay right now?


Here are some dual stage regulator part numbers to look for:
Victor
VTS253A-1993
VTS253A-320
VTS253B-320
VTS253C-320
VTS253D-320
VTS453D-320

Matheson
8-320

Concoa
2122301-000

Some people like the Victor 0781-1123 CO2 Flowgauge Regulator, but it is a single stage model.


----------



## daverockssocks

Hey LeftC any chances of getting you to piece together a dual stage for me since you seem to know exactly what you're looking for and what you're doing lol?


----------



## Left C

daverockssocks said:


> Hey LeftC any chances of getting you to piece together a dual stage for me since you seem to know exactly what you're looking for and what you're doing lol?


PM sent


----------



## zzyzx85

It's up and running now


----------



## Left C

That sure is a simple way to set a CO2 system up. Good job!

How do you like your regulator so far?

Do be sure to double check the tightness of the CGA-320 nut and check for leaks.


----------



## zzyzx85

the regulator is a breeze to use. The low pressure handle is precise enough for me to dial it in to 10psi.

Yup, I checked the regulator for leaks while the solenoid was plugged in. I then checked the NV, check valve, and bubble counter for leaks after I had it running. All looks good. The regulator nut is as tight as I dare to go without crushing the nylon perma seal.


----------



## Left C

How are your Victor regulators performing?


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## zzyzx85

just fine, thank you 

Now I want a bigger powerhead or more CO2 line so I can put the PH in a better location. A Rio Mini 50 isn't much of a powerhead. It's great for getting flow across a 2' tank with 1 filter outlet...not so much a 4' tank with 2 filter outlets. Thinking of getting a Rio 600 RVT or a Rio Plus 600 PT. Both the same, just the Plus 600 PT is the newer version.

I assume I don't have a leak since the high pressure gage still at the same pressure since I've started it 4 days ago.


----------



## Left C

The Rio 600 RVT really chews up the bubbles. You remove the stock intake tubing and connect your CO2 tubing there. This is needle wheel type powerhead. In the equipment section of this forum, Barr mentions this particular pump and its ability to make mist bubbles. I purchased one and plumbed it into an Eheim spray bar. It worked well, but it was too strong for my aquarium. I sent it to jake and let him use it. Many people don't like Rio powerhead and there may be other types of needle wheel pumps/powerheads that may work better.












Have you been following mrkookm's thread about using an Enkamat mesh mod on a Iwaki pump for making mist CO2 bubbles?

bsmith782 just got a pump. I have a Pan World NH-10PX that I can try to mod. Also, I just won two Iwaki used pumps on eBay to try a mesh mod. They are a MD-6 and a MD-10. 

Here is a DIY article about the mesh mod.
http://www.randystacye.com/diythreadwheel.htm


----------



## zzyzx85

I would rather use a powerhead since it's in-tank and less leaks and tubing to worry about. I also like the extra circulation. Just don't like the bulky noticeable shape hanging around in the top front corner of my tank. oh well, I can always camouflage it with floating plants.

Are there any documented mods for powerhead impellers? I've used a hot needle to poke holes into the impeller blades of the Rio 50, which was hell because the damn blades were like 1/8" wide.

Left C: Did the 600RVT have that special impeller blade or is it normal?


----------



## bsmith

Check out this sweet thing!


----------



## lizziotti

yeah my CONCOA regulator finally came today! It took forever!
Bsmith did you get your solenoid on yet? Was it hard to remove the barb? I have to go find the vice I'm so nervous! :icon_eek:


----------



## bsmith

Nope it wasnt that tough at all just got a decent sized crescent wrenc and took it off. I did switch from pipe dope to tefflon tape, much rasier to clean and no worris of gumming up the solenoid or regulator with it. I must say again though that after you do it make sure you soapy water test it to make sure there are no leaks. You dont want an empty cylinder after all of your hard work.:icon_eek:
Here it is in all of its glory...











lizziotti said:


> yeah my CONCOA regulator finally came today! It took forever!
> Bsmith did you get your solenoid on yet? Was it hard to remove the barb? I have to go find the vice I'm so nervous! :icon_eek:


----------



## Left C

zzyzx85 said:


> ... Left C: Did the 600RVT have that special impeller blade or is it normal?


I don't know. I never took it apart.

It made a fine mist of bubbles.

Marine Depot lists the same impeller part number for both the 600 and the 600RVT. This is a regular impeller.This confused me. http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...twater_Aquarium_Supplies&vendor=&child=TA4521

Then, Marine Depot shows this picture of the 800 and 800RVT impeller.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...twater_Aquarium_Supplies&vendor=&child=TA4523










It looks like a typo at Marine Depot, but I'm not sure.


----------



## Left C

SuMo recently added a Post-Body Kit for people that have their own regulators. It is a very nice looking kit. http://www.sumoregulator.com/











If you have your own regulator body and are comfortable putting your rig together on your own, we can set you up with everything you need to get up and running! Our Post-Body Kit consists of:
# Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on
# Ideal metering valve
# JBJ Bubble Counter
# Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing
# A brass check valve
# All of the fittings you'll need
# Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections
# ALL IN ONE PLACE!


The post body kit with Ideal Metering Valve is $165 shipped in the US.


----------



## Left C

Wow! 10,000 views!!!


----------



## t0p_sh0tta

Left C said:


> SuMo recently added a Post-Body Kit for people that have their own regulators. It is a very nice looking kit. http://www.sumoregulator.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have your own regulator body and are comfortable putting your rig together on your own, we can set you up with everything you need to get up and running! Our Post-Body Kit consists of:
> # Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on
> # Ideal metering valve
> # Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing
> # A brass check valve
> # All of the fittings you'll need
> # Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections
> # ALL IN ONE PLACE!
> 
> 
> The post body kit with Ideal Metering Valve is $165 shipped in the US.


It's cool that they offer a complete package, but at that price point, you could pick up a complete regulator package.


----------



## Left C

The Ideal metering valve is the most expensive part of the kit. It is really very good.


----------



## lizziotti

I wonder if this includes the bubble counter?


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> I wonder if this includes the bubble counter?


It is included.

It was a typo. Thanks for pointing it out, lizziotti. Here is the newest description:

# Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on
# Ideal metering valve
# JBJ Bubble Counter
# Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing
# A brass check valve
# All of the fittings you'll need
# Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections
# ALL IN ONE PLACE!


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> There are several people that haven't joined the Club after recently purchasing a Victor regulator. Do you guys want to be a member? I believe that these people are the ones that I know about:
> Coconutmuffin
> herns
> 
> Are there any more people that have Victor regulators that are not on the list that would like to join?
> 
> 
> 
> *Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members*
> 
> #1 - Left C
> #2 - fordtrannyman
> #3 - Mishmosh
> #4 - bsmith782
> #5 - lescarpentier
> #6 - delevan
> #7 - Squawkbert
> #8 - c_sking
> #9 - SpeedEuphoria
> #10 - DaveT
> #11 - Ackdog
> #12 - eric_c
> #13 - Captain Hooked
> #14 - Bugman
> #15 - zzyzx85
> #16 - adstudio3d
> #17 - mnellis3023
> #18 - DataLifePlus
> #19 - cheefunk
> #20 - manofmanyfish
> #21 - cwilfinger
> #22 - plantfreak108
> #23 - herns


 
*Thanks for adding me, Left C. It took awhile before I can finally place a reply here.*

*Herns*
*Victor PIMP #23: VTS-253A-320*


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> SuMo recently added a Post-Body Kit for people that have their own regulators. It is a very nice looking kit. http://www.sumoregulator.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have your own regulator body and are comfortable putting your rig together on your own, we can set you up with everything you need to get up and running! Our Post-Body Kit consists of:
> # Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on
> # Ideal metering valve
> # JBJ Bubble Counter
> # Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing
> # A brass check valve
> # All of the fittings you'll need
> # Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections
> # ALL IN ONE PLACE!
> 
> 
> The post body kit with Ideal Metering Valve is $165 shipped in the US.


Left C,

How are the lists above differ from Rex G. that I sent you?


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Left C,
> 
> How are the lists above differ from Rex G. that I sent you?


- I don't believe that Rex uses the JBJ Bubble Counter. He has his own bubble counter.
- Rex carries a Fabco needle valve as well as the Ideal metering valve.
- The solenoid is the same.
- There could be slight differences in the brass parts.
- SuMo includes the pipe joint compound.

I believe this covers most of the differences.


I'll show you basically what they will look like.

This is how zzyzx85 set this CO2 kit together. It uses a Fabco needle valve like Rex sells. The bubble counter is different, but it serves the same purpose.



zzyzx85 said:


> It's up and running now



Here is a picture of my dual stage VTS-253D-320 regulator. It will give you an idea how your VTS253A-320 will look using SuMo's parts. It has a Burkert solenoid instead of the Clippard solenoid.

Burkert Solenoid, Ideal Metering Valve, JBJ Bubble Counter


----------



## Complexity

LeftC, what did you get me into? :hihi: I snagged a Victor regulator a while back on eBay, but I have no idea what to do from there. My eyes have just glazed over this thread.

*But I'm not ready yet!* So hold off on the details.

Give me some more time, and then I'll be ready. Then maybe someone can point me to the page(s) that apply to my regulator so I'll know what to do with it.


----------



## bsmith

What do you ant to do? Do you just have the regulator?




Complexity said:


> LeftC, what did you get me into? :hihi: I snagged a Victor regulator a while back on eBay, but I have no idea what to do from there. My eyes have just glazed over this thread.
> 
> *But I'm not ready yet!* So hold off on the details.
> 
> Give me some more time, and then I'll be ready. Then maybe someone can point me to the page(s) that apply to my regulator so I'll know what to do with it.


----------



## Complexity

Yeah, I got the regulator off of eBay about a month ago. LeftC helped me find the auction so I know I have the right regulator. It's a VTS-253B-320. I paid $56 shipped.

I'll need to add the other parts which I see has already been discussed in this thread. I'll probably need some hand holding, though, as I'm clueless about most of this stuff. I'll need some help when I'm ready to put parts on the regulator. Heck, I'll need help just figuring out what parts I need to get for the regulator.

But I'm not ready just yet. Maybe in a week or so I hope.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Left C, what did you get me into? :hihi: ...


Rex has a great set of instructions that I followed when I built mine: http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> ... I'll need to add the other parts which I see has already been discussed in this thread. I'll probably need some hand holding, though, as I'm clueless about most of this stuff. I'll need some help when I'm ready to put parts on the regulator. Heck, I'll need help just figuring out what parts I need to get for the regulator.
> 
> But I'm not ready just yet. Maybe in a week or so I hope.


----------



## Complexity

I saw that. I will need help with things that you guys might not think of. For example, I can't remember what you called it, but I think it was maybe a vice? It took me awhile to realize that the thing you guys were talking about might be the red clamp in the garage that's bolted to the table. Even if that is the right tool, I don't know how to use it. I mean, I know _how_ it works, but not what part to clamp down, how to keep it from scratching everything, etc.

I can do it all, but I'm not familiar with the names of all the stuff or how to use it. This is one reason why I haven't done anything with the regulator yet. I'm a little scared that I'll mess it up.

BTW, what is pipe dope? If I go to Lowes and ask for pipe dope, would they know what I'm wanting?


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


>


:hihi: :hihi: :hihi:


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> .. BTW, what is pipe dope? If I go to Lowes and ask for pipe dope, would they know what I'm wanting?


It is not anything like Phelps' Bong.

I used a non hardening high pressure pipe joint compound from Lowe's. A form of pipe dope.


----------



## Complexity

Ahhh! Thanks, that helps.

I had Phelps in the back of my mind, as well. I didn't want to be charged for trying to find a pipe for some dope! :hihi:


----------



## lizziotti

Left C said:


> It is not anything like Phelps' Bong.


:biggrin::hihi: you are too funny left C! Good one!roud:


----------



## lizziotti

complexity: Don't worry I am in the same boat everyone on this thread has helped so much! I was looking at those cheap sets before I found this thread. Now I am trying to piece it all together also. So keep the questions coming so I can learn too and I can act like I knew it all along! Anyway I am sure we will get there thanks to these guys! Off to Lowe's I go!


----------



## Left C

One thing confused me a bit when I started this thread a few months back was that the same brass part can have several names.


----------



## Complexity

Guess what. Remember I blew out the gauge in the Milwaukee regulator? So I bought a new one. That was in November. About 3 months old.

So I check my CO2 today, and the main pressure gauge is at 0! Now I knew something wasn't right because the cylinder was filled just 3 months ago, as well, but I thought I might have had a leak somewhere.

After checking things out more closely, I realized that BOTH gauges are not working! The regulator itself is able to dose CO2. I just have to watch the bubble counter and let the pH controller handle it.

Still... That's now 2 regulators with failed gauges!

*I think I'm ready to start putting the pieces together so I can use the Victor regulator.*

So that means I'll need:

1. A bubble counter — Can I use the one from my Milwaukee or should I get a better one?

2. A solenoid — Just tell me what I need to get and I'll get it.

What else?

I just want to get the parts for now. I'm not ready to figure out how to put them on yet. I need to take this one step at a time so I don't get confused. Thanks!


----------



## bsmith

You can use yor Milwaukee BC if you want. Does yours have the cheapo needle valve that connects to the bottom of it?

I bought my Solenoid from Rex Grigg ($35 shipped) just so I dodnt have to get a plug and wire it myself. If you feel handy enough to do that then you can get the solenoid for ~$20 and a 6' power chord for ~$6 directly from Clippard. But if you dont live close to a supplier then you deff should get one from Rex. It will come pre assembled and be cheaper.



Complexity said:


> Guess what. Remember I blew out the gauge in the Milwaukee regulator? So I bought a new one. That was in November. About 3 months old.
> 
> So I check my CO2 today, and the main pressure gauge is at 0! Now I knew something wasn't right because the cylinder was filled just 3 months ago, as well, but I thought I might have had a leak somewhere.
> 
> After checking things out more closely, I realized that BOTH gauges are not working! The regulator itself is able to dose CO2. I just have to watch the bubble counter and let the pH controller handle it.
> 
> Still... That's now 2 regulators with failed gauges!
> 
> *I think I'm ready to start putting the pieces together so I can use the Victor regulator.*
> 
> So that means I'll need:
> 
> 1. A bubble counter — Can I use the one from my Milwaukee or should I get a better one?
> 
> 2. A solenoid — Just tell me what I need to get and I'll get it.
> 
> What else?
> 
> I just want to get the parts for now. I'm not ready to figure out how to put them on yet. I need to take this one step at a time so I don't get confused. Thanks!


----------



## Complexity

Pre-assembled and cheaper sounds really good! I am phobic about electrical wiring so I'm not wiring anything.

I don't know what I have on the Milwaukee other than it being standard issue. So it's probably the cheapo needle valve. Whatever it is, I don't like it so I'm more than happy to replace it. Hopefully, the new one won't be so flakey.

I had read elsewhere that if the regulator is being controlled by a pH controller, a solenoid isn't needed. I don't understand that. How else do you power the regulator?

Left C suggested the Post Body Kit with Ideal Metering Valve from http://www.sumoregulator.com/. It's not cheap at $165. While I don't want to waste money, if this kit is of very high quality, I wouldn't mind paying for it. What I'd really like is to put it together (okay, I'd like for someone ELSE to do it, but I'll try) and then to use it without any further problems. I don't enjoy working with the equipment so I'd rather do it once the right way and be done with it.

It seems there are 3 parts I need to get. Solenoid, BC and NV. You're saying I can get the solenoid for $35. I could reuse my BC. The Ideal NV is priced $65 at Rex Grigs. I'm assuming pipe dope is a dollar or two. That comes to ~$100. So how much is a better BC? If it's less than $55 shipped, then I can save money by piecing it together. Otherwise, I'll just get the kit.


----------



## captain_bu

Complexity said:


> It seems there are 3 parts I need to get. Solenoid, BC and NV. You're saying I can get the solenoid for $35. I could reuse my BC.


You also need the correct sized fittings to connect everything together. The JBJ bubble counters that Sumo sells have a built in check valve. If your existing bubble counter does not have a built in check valve you will need one before (and after) the bubble counter, with the JBJ bc you would only need to add a check valve after the bc. Not sure what the breakdown of costs is for each of the parts in the Sumo package but there is certainly an advantage to getting everything you need in one shipment at the same time. No waiting for parts to come for various sources, no multiple shipping charges and no chance of forgetting to order something you need or ordering the wrong part. Sumo shipped my regulator via USPS priority mail, I had it in two business days (NJ to CA). They would also be a helpful contact if you have any questions/problems putting everything together.


----------



## Complexity

Well, that was easy. You just sold me on getting the kit! :smile:

Thanks for your help, Captain. Much appreciated!


----------



## zzyzx85

Complexity said:


> I had read elsewhere that if the regulator is being controlled by a pH controller, a solenoid isn't needed. I don't understand that. How else do you power the regulator?


Actually, you do need a solenoid if you are using a pH controller to control the CO2. Without a solenoid, you CO2 would be on constantly. With a pH controller, it controls the solenoid, which turns the CO2 on and off, depending on what the pH level is in the tank.

A regulator only needs power if you want something controlling, either a timer or a pH controller. Otherwise, it's "on" constantly.


----------



## Complexity

Ah, okay, that makes sense. I thought it seemed odd. Thanks for clearing that up. :smile:


----------



## bsmith

C clean out your PM box.


----------



## bsmith

What did you come up with?



Complexity said:


> Ah, okay, that makes sense. I thought it seemed odd. Thanks for clearing that up. :smile:


----------



## Hoppy

Has anyone heard from Left C lately? He is either away on a trip somewhere, lost in the jungle, shipwrecked on an island, or just busy:icon_roll


----------



## tazdevil

All of the above, he just messaged me.


----------



## fordtrannyman

Hoppy said:


> Has anyone heard from Left C lately? He is either away on a trip somewhere, lost in the jungle, shipwrecked on an island, or just busy:icon_roll


I hope all is well with him.


----------



## Left C

Thanks for the thoughts guys. I was just very lazy for a week.


----------



## fordtrannyman

I finally got around to rebuilding my Victor Regulator today. 
Thought I would post what it looks like. 
I wanted to go with all stainless steel fittings for looks, 
but the JBJ Bubble Counters are only available in brass so I stayed with brass fittings for contrast. 
This rig sits on a 20# in my living room is the only reason I consider what it looks like.

Dual Stage Victor Model # VTS-253-A
With 0-30 PSI Output Gauge 
1-Swagelok B-SS2, Straight Through Metering Valve
2-Swagelok B-SS2-A, Angle Pattern Metering Valves
3-JBJ Bubble Counters


----------



## Left C

Wow!! That's awesome, fordtrannyman!!! 

Have you guys noticed that the Victor CO2 regulators have not been very plentiful on eBay as well dual stage CO2 regulators?


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> Thanks for the thoughts guys. I was just very lazy for a week.


Hi, glad your back!



Left C said:


> Have you guys noticed that the Victor CO2 regulators have not been very plentiful on eBay as well dual stage CO2 regulators?


Yes! I've been looking another one for quite a while now. I would like to find another 253A like the one I have now.


----------



## Left C

Where did you get your Swagelok metering valves?


----------



## Hoppy

Here is a regulator I would bet will work fine with CO2 - http://tinyurl.com/cxrql6. Notice the grease pencil markings on the gages - typical values for CO2. You would probably need a $10 CGA320 inlet nipple, because there doesn't seem to be one on the regulator. I got them to offer it to me for about $18, plus the $12 shipping, and with the nipple you would have paid $40 for what seems to be a good quality regulator. That company is the one I bought my regulator from - great dealer!


----------



## zzyzx85

FTM, that looks sexy


----------



## Left C

Some people want to understand the differences between single and dual stage regulators a little more as well as how they work or don’t work in some cases. "End of tank dump" is explained even though that phrase is not mentioned.The following comes from a Matheson catalog. It is well written and easy to understand.


*DUAL STAGE* regulators reduce the source pressure down to the desired delivery pressure in two steps. Each stage consists of a spring, diaphragm, and control valve. The first stage reduces the inlet pressure to about three times the maximum working pressure. The final pressure reduction occurs in the second stage. The advantage of a dual stage regulator is its ability to deliver a constant pressure, even with a decrease in inlet pressure. For example, as a cylinder of gas is depleted, the cylinder pressure drops. Under these conditions, single stage regulators exhibit a “decaying inlet characteristic”; where the delivery pressure increases as a result of the decrease in inlet pressure. In a dual stage regulator, the second stage compensates for this increase, providing a constant delivery pressure regardless of inlet pressure conditions. The dual stage regulator is recommended for applications where a continuous supply of gas is required; such as the gas supplied to analytical instruments where constant delivery pressure is critical.

*SINGLE STAGE* regulators perform the same function as the two stage regulator using a single step reduction of source to outlet pressure. For this reason, the outlet pressure cannot be as accurately controlled as the source pressure decays. We highly recommend single stage regulators only be used in circumstances where the operator can monitor and adjust the regulator as needed or where the regulator is supplied a nearly constant source pressure.

Here is some additional information: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-20.html#post743710


----------



## Hoppy

This may explain why Milwaukee regulators will destroy the outlet pressure gage if you apply CO2 tank pressure to the inlet when the pressure control knob on the regulator is not backed all the way off. If the regulator is still set at 20 psi when you open the CO2 tank valve, the initial low pressure of the inlet CO2 gives a very high outlet pressure until the inlet pressure builds up to near the tank pressure. That whips the gage needle all the way around ruining the gage. (Just my theory.)


----------



## bsmith

Did you see this?

Regulator



fordtrannyman said:


> Hi, glad your back!
> 
> 
> 
> Yes! I've been looking another one for quite a while now. I would like to find another 253A like the one I have now.


----------



## Left C

Hoppy said:


> This may explain why Milwaukee regulators will destroy the outlet pressure gauge if you apply CO2 tank pressure to the inlet when the pressure control knob on the regulator is not backed all the way off. If the regulator is still set at 20 psi when you open the CO2 tank valve, the initial low pressure of the inlet CO2 gives a very high outlet pressure until the inlet pressure builds up to near the tank pressure. That whips the gage needle all the way around ruining the gauge. (Just my theory.)


I had the same thing happen to a Cornelius regulator twice. I blew 2 low pressure gauges. I didn't know to turn back the pressure to 0 when I took them off. That way the working pressure is 0 when I open the CO2 cylinder. The regulator was called "The Best" at the time. It came from AP.com.

I had two Azoo regulators before I got "The Best." They have a preset working pressure and you didn't have to do anything but turn the cylinder on or turn it off. They were easy.

I lower the pressure to 0 when I remove my Victor's. I didn't want to take a chance of blowing a gauge.:icon_lol:


----------



## bsmith

I have done it a few time with out turning my working pressure down. There were no incidents.


----------



## fordtrannyman

bsmith782 said:


> I have done it a few time with out turning my working pressure down. There were no incidents.


 Yet! lol


----------



## bsmith

No kidding. Next time the guage might blow off!!!


----------



## Jeff5614

I found a few more two stage Victors on ebay if anyone is interested.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Hoppy

Jeff5614 said:


> I found a few more two stage Victors on ebay if anyone is interested.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-PRESSURE...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


This one is a very good buy, one I would most likely have bought if it was there when I got mine.


----------



## lizziotti

Left C said:


> I had the same thing happen to a Cornelius regulator twice. I blew 2 low pressure gauges. I didn't know to turn back the pressure to 0 when I took them off. That way the working pressure is 0 when I open the CO2 cylinder. The regulator was called "The Best" at the time. It came from AP.com.


I am so worried about this I finially have my CONCOA regulator built. I'm about to put it on my tank but I am so afraid. The CONCOA regulator actually has arrows marked increase and decrease. So let me see if I have this right I turn it to decrease all the way. hook it up then slowly open co2 tank then slowly turn the regulator dial to increase? Do I have this right?

Also do I need to cure the pipe dope? I'm thinking no since it's non-hardening but if I'm remembering correctly I thought I read you should let it dry for 24-48 hrs before hooking up? 

One more ? sorry is there a "best" place to put the check valve or does it not really matter?

Thank you so much for all your help once again. I can not wait to get rid of my yeast!


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> I am so worried about this I finially have my CONCOA regulator built.


Great job! 



lizziotti said:


> I'm about to put it on my tank but I am so afraid. The CONCOA regulator actually has arrows marked increase and decrease. So let me see if I have this right I turn it to decrease all the way. hook it up then slowly open co2 tank then slowly turn the regulator dial to increase? Do I have this right?


You turn it counter clockwise until it is very loose. This reduces the low pressure setting to ~ 0.

Then tighten the nut that attaches the regulator to the CO2 cylinder really hard. Come back and try to tighten it some more after it has ran a while.

Open the CO2 cylinder slowly until it is completely open. Check for leaks.

Turn the knob clockwise until you reach your working pressure that you desire.



lizziotti said:


> Also do I need to cure the pipe dope? I'm thinking no since it's non-hardening but if I'm remembering correctly I thought I read you should let it dry for 24-48 hrs before hooking up?


 I didn't. 

I just read the info on my pipe dope and it didn't mention anything about letting it dry.



lizziotti said:


> One more ? sorry is there a "best" place to put the check valve or does it not really matter?


I use one before and one after the bubble counter. 



lizziotti said:


> Thank you so much for all your help once again. I can not wait to get rid of my yeast!


You are very welcome and I know exactly what you mean.


----------



## lizziotti

Oh I forgot to mention I'm not using a bubble counter so should I just place it near the ideal needle valve? The check valve is brass and a little heavy so I wasn't sure if it should dangle in mid air. Do you know what I mean?


----------



## lizziotti

Oh and thanks I think I understand how to put the regulator on I'm very nervous though. Since I don't have to cure I think I'll go ahead and do it very nervous!:eek5:


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Oh I forgot to mention I'm not using a bubble counter so should I just place it near the ideal needle valve? The check valve is brass and a little heavy so I wasn't sure if it should dangle in mid air. Do you know what I mean?


That will work doing it that way. 

Another way to do it is to place it a few inches before the tubing goes into the water. This way there is only a little bit of water that has siphoned back into the tube.

Either way will work fine for you.

No bubble counter? How do you know your rate? pH controller?


----------



## lizziotti

I'm using the hagen ladders so I didn't think I needed one but if I don't like the ladders I plan to get one and a glass diffuser. I was thinking of looking into the wheel diffusion idea also. I have to research it though I've just caught a few things here and there about it. I'm still using a HOB though so I'm thinking a canister should be my next project. Always something isn't there? Like I haven't spend enough getting this co2 thing going oh well whatcha gonna do.


----------



## bsmith

As long as the ladder is allowing you to count the bubble then that works.


----------



## Left C

I'm using ladders on two 10g with pressurized CO2. They work fine.


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Oh and thanks I think I understand how to put the regulator on I'm very nervous though. Since I don't have to cure I think I'll go ahead and do it very nervous!:eek5:


How are things going?


----------



## lizziotti

Thanks for asking I opened it up but I don't have it hooked up to my aquarium yet since the lights are off already for the night! 

I found this on a website and I tested for leaks this way. 
_To test the seal, close the regulator by turning the adjustment screw counter-clockwise until it turns freely. Open the tap on the tank, you should see the high pressure gauge indicate the pressure inside the tank. Now close the valve on the tank and wait about 5 minutes. If no leaks are present, the pressure inside the regulator should not drop even with the tap on the bottle turned off. If you encounter problems and can't get it to make a good seal, use a brush to "paint" some soapy water around the connections to find the location of the leak._

mine was fine it kept the pressure do you think I should still do a soap test or am I good?


----------



## Left C

I've seen that test before, but I forgot all about it.

You should be OK, but if it was me; I use some soap or Windex to check for leaks too. As a double check.

Having an empty tank after a few days isn't fun.


----------



## lizziotti

yeah your right I'll do that thanks!


----------



## wuhungsix

Jeff5614 said:


> I found a few more two stage Victors on ebay if anyone is interested.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-PRESSURE...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


thanks you for the link just got one. any deals else where for the fittings, solenoid, bb counter. Also for those who built thier own, what is the torqe specs on the fittings?


----------



## lizziotti

I'm not getting any bubbles?:icon_cry:


----------



## bsmith

From where?



lizziotti said:


> I'm not getting any bubbles?:icon_cry:


----------



## lizziotti

my hagen ladder


----------



## bsmith

What is your working pressure set at (lower of the 2 readings on the pressure guages on top of the regulator)?


----------



## lizziotti

I had the working pressure at 10 then I increased it to 20 still nothing. I think I narrowed it down to the check valve. I have a brass one the ends were closed I unscrewed the ends alittle and heard a hiss but still nothing. The other thing it might be is that I tried to take the end out of the hose of my ladder so I could insert into my better co2 tubing I have but I couldn't get it in so I decided to just keep it on the hose that came with the ladder so I have that on one end of the check valve and the good stuff coming out the other end into my needle valve. Is this causing a problem? Oh nothing can be simple!


----------



## Jeff5614

You guys are a bad influence. I just bought one of these today.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## bsmith

I have never used a check valve like you are describing. Try it with out the check valve and see if it works properly. Dont worry about the tubing. It may not be the best but it will work fine.



lizziotti said:


> I had the working pressure at 10 then I increased it to 20 still nothing. I think I narrowed it down to the check valve. I have a brass one the ends were closed I unscrewed the ends alittle and heard a hiss but still nothing. The other thing it might be is that I tried to take the end out of the hose of my ladder so I could insert into my better co2 tubing I have but I couldn't get it in so I decided to just keep it on the hose that came with the ladder so I have that on one end of the check valve and the good stuff coming out the other end into my needle valve. Is this causing a problem? Oh nothing can be simple!


Congratuations!



Jeff5614 said:


> You guys are a bad influence. I just bought one of these today.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-PRESSURE...photoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262


----------



## lizziotti

oh and reg. pressure is about 850 sorry about that.


----------



## bsmith

You were right to start off with.

850 = Tank pressure
15= Working pressure



lizziotti said:


> oh working pressure is about 850 sorry about that.


----------



## lizziotti

you are too fast ha ha!


----------



## lizziotti

Never mind guys thanks so much I have co2 yeah! I shouldn't tell you this! I really shouldn't but I had the check valve on backwards. I'm soooo embarrassed.. :icon_redf anyway I can't thank everyone enough for all your help with my stupid ? Did I mention I am blond and thanks for this thread before I found it I was going to buy one of those cheapo regulators yuck! I'm So proud to have built this myself it's a great feeling, I'm sooo excited. I have to go out tonight though I'm alittle nervous to leave it on! But I was so anxious to get it going. One last ? I had a hard time getting the co2 tubing off the check valve to turn it around. I had to cut it is there an easier way? Thanks so much again esp. Left C and Bsmith I could not have done this without you both!:thumbsup:

I am so embarrassed!


----------



## bsmith

Glad to hear. No go grow some plants!


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> .. One last ? I had a hard time getting the co2 tubing off the check valve to turn it around. I had to cut it is there an easier way? ...


That's what I do. You know that it won't leak when it is tight.

I'm glad that you got it going and please let us know what you think about your regulator.

One last tip. Go back and make sure everything is good and tight and leak free; especially the nut on the CGA-320 fitting.


----------



## lizziotti

I did thanks! I did notice a little leak where the check valve is now darn it I got a bubble when I just did another bubble test. Mine actually screws at both ends that I screwed off when I thought I had a problem with it. I wonder if it doesn't seal as well now. Everything else checked out. So far I really like the regulator but I have nothing to compare it to. Things are going well my plants are pearling and my drop checker looks yellowish green so I turned it down. Funny the tetra's didn't mind at all but my poor syn. cats were panting away I felt bad they seem fine now though phew! The ladder is working great! Sure takes up space though.


----------



## Jeff5614

wuhungsix said:


> thanks you for the link just got one. any deals else where for the fittings, solenoid, bb counter. Also for those who built thier own, what is the torqe specs on the fittings?


I'm not sure about the other fittings although Sumo does sell a post body kit with all of the parts. I suppose you can find everything individually for less but I've not started looking yet. I've not received my regulator yet and I'll probably kind of take my time putting everything together. 

http://sumoregulator.com/


----------



## Left C

I purchased two forerunners of the "Post Body Kit." They are very good.


----------



## Jeff5614

Thanks, C, good to know.


----------



## Left C

Those kits are quick and easy. They have already done the parts research for you.


----------



## lovingHDTV

Jeff5614 said:


> I'm not sure about the other fittings although Sumo does sell a post body kit with all of the parts. I suppose you can find everything individually for less but I've not started looking yet. I've not received my regulator yet and I'll probably kind of take my time putting everything together.
> 
> http://sumoregulator.com/


I just bought this kit here and paid $10 to upgrade to a fabco valve instead of the clippard. I'll update when I get it. It was like $75 shipped. With this price I could not justify the additional $100 for the sumo, even though the sumo comes with the ideal needle valve.

http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits


I got the link from someone else on the board here. Can't remember who.


----------



## Jeff5614

That Fabco needle valve is supposed to be a good one. Please let us know what you think of the setup.


----------



## Left C

That's interesting. I've never seen the Oregon Aqua Design kit even though it has been listed since 9/8/08.

Do be careful with the small #10-32 threads and the somewhat heavy Fabco needle valve.


----------



## wuhungsix

Jeff-

Thanks, I actually just sent Sumo an email to order the post body kit. I was going to go with the a fabco and all parts from Rex Grigg but figured that I would be driving all over town on a scavenger hunt for misc parts. The Sumo will save me time and give me a better NV.

On the Victor from the ebay I noticed it had an airline barb attached along with a male-to-male connector. I am guessing you just remove all of the fittings down to the regulator body and attach solenoid directly to the regulator. This will be my first pressurized system, just trying to picture the rig in my head.

pic of the Victor
http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/10/d1/1a76_1.JPG


----------



## Jeff5614

wuhungsix said:


> On the Victor from the ebay I noticed it had an airline barb attached along with a male-to-male connector. I am guessing you just remove all of the fittings down to the regulator body and attach solenoid directly to the regulator. This will be my first pressurized system, just trying to picture the rig in my head.


I think you're correct but I'm going to defer this question to LeftC or someone else who has actually put one together.


----------



## wuhungsix

lovingHDTV said:


> I just bought this kit here and paid $10 to upgrade to a fabco valve instead of the clippard. I'll update when I get it. It was like $75 shipped. With this price I could not justify the additional $100 for the sumo, even though the sumo comes with the ideal needle valve.
> 
> http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits
> 
> 
> I got the link from someone else on the board here. Can't remember who.


Not bad for $100 less than the Sumo. I read around the boards and thought there was something about Fabco working better in-line than on the reg body. Do you know how they are going to send it to you. Also does it come with the fittings or any extras liek check valve/ tubing?


----------



## Hoppy

Left C said:


> That's interesting. I've never seen the Oregon Aqua Design kit even though it has been listed since 9/8/08.
> 
> Do be careful with the small #10-32 threads and the somewhat heavy Fabco needle valve.


The Fabco valve is great for our use, so good I don't see a good reason to get a better quality one. The 10-32 ports are a nuisance, but they work well. You can't attach the valve to the regulator using that small port, the fitting just isn't strong enough. But, you can put hose barbs in both ports, tie the valve to the regulator just to hold it in place, and connect it with CO2 tubing. See http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator-2.html#post795979 for how I did it.


----------



## lovingHDTV

Hoppy said:


> The Fabco valve is great for our use, so good I don't see a good reason to get a better quality one. The 10-32 ports are a nuisance, but they work well. You can't attach the valve to the regulator using that small port, the fitting just isn't strong enough. But, you can put hose barbs in both ports, tie the valve to the regulator just to hold it in place, and connect it with CO2 tubing. See http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator-2.html#post795979 for how I did it.


This is how I requested it to be made so that I can install it inline with hose barbs. The JBJ bubble counter has a check valve in it already. I asked about that also.


----------



## wuhungsix

Hoppy said:


> The Fabco valve is great for our use, so good I don't see a good reason to get a better quality one. The 10-32 ports are a nuisance, but they work well. You can't attach the valve to the regulator using that small port, the fitting just isn't strong enough. But, you can put hose barbs in both ports, tie the valve to the regulator just to hold it in place, and connect it with CO2 tubing. See http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator-2.html#post795979 for how I did it.


because of you thread I just changed my mind again and ordered the Fabco, solenoid with cord, 2x 10-32 ports, and a bunch of co2 tubing. I guess all I need now is the brass fitting and bard for the Solenoid (1/8" ??), and a DIY BB (aka soda bottle) counter.


----------



## Left C

Don't forget about Rex's thread showing how he builds them and the parts that he uses. http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> That's interesting. I've never seen the Oregon Aqua Design kit even though it has been listed since 9/8/08.
> 
> Do be careful with the small #10-32 threads and the somewhat heavy Fabco needle valve.





Hoppy said:


> The Fabco valve is great for our use, so good I don't see a good reason to get a better quality one. The 10-32 ports are a nuisance, but they work well. You can't attach the valve to the regulator using that small port, the fitting just isn't strong enough. But, you can put hose barbs in both ports, tie the valve to the regulator just to hold it in place, and connect it with CO2 tubing. See http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator-2.html#post795979 for how I did it.


I like the way that you have your Fabco needle valve attached. It is very neat.

My warning about the threads should of mentioned something saying that it is not recommended to mount the heavy Fabco directly to the solenoid or regulator with the small #10-32 fittings. I started to quote Rex, but I didn't. Anyway, this is what Rex says: "Fabco NV 55 needle valve.
Comes with barbs to run in-line – $22 Much better valve than the Clippard. Easier to adjust bubble rate as it has some resistance to the stem. Also gives much finer control.

If you wish to attach this to a regulator then I have the adapters (same as for the Clippard valve) and the fitting. Be very careful when attaching to a regulator body as this valve is heavy and it would be easy to break the fitting. In my opinion, for what it's worth, you are much better off running this as an in-line valve. This is my most popular needle valve."
From: http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#needle


----------



## Left C

wuhungsix said:


> ... Thanks, I actually just sent Sumo an email to order the post body kit. I was going to go with the a fabco and all parts from Rex Grigg but figured that I would be driving all over town on a scavenger hunt for misc parts. The Sumo will save me time and give me a better NV.


I believe that Rex carries all the misc parts that you need.



wuhungsix said:


> On the Victor from the ebay I noticed it had an airline barb attached along with a male-to-male connector. I am guessing you just remove all of the fittings down to the regulator body and attach solenoid directly to the regulator. This will be my first pressurized system, just trying to picture the rig in my head.
> 
> pic of the Victor
> http://i15.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/10/d1/1a76_1.JPG


I ordered one of these regulators too.


----------



## Jeff5614

Jeff5614 said:


> You guys are a bad influence. I just bought one of these today.
> 
> _Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


Since my purchase of the above regulator fell through I picked up this one today, I hope.

_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_


----------



## Left C

Jeff5614 said:


> Since my purchase of the above regulator fell through I picked up this one today, I hope.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...K:MEWNX:IT&item=390030245341#ebayphotohosting


A VTS253D regulator is very good.

Here is my VTS253D regulator.


----------



## Momotaro

http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits



> Not bad for $100 less than the Sumo.


An FYI that I am suprised Cecil hasn't stated already and *no slam intended* on Oregon Aqua Design (I like their site and some of the products they offer - I will personally be placing an order with them soon) , or a push for us at SuMo, but aside from the solenoid, the linked "after body kit" is not like the SuMo kit we offer for more money.

SuMo offers more brass fittings, a power cord,tubing, brass check valve and an Ideal metering valve. Shipping fees are included in our price as well. That will account for the price difference.


----------



## wuhungsix

Jeff5614 said:


> Since my purchase of the above regulator fell through I picked up this one today, I hope.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...K:MEWNX:IT&item=390030245341#ebayphotohosting


What happened? I just got mine today and it looks great. Heavy sucker too.

















and I know this is suppose to be the safety valve. but since this is the first time inspecting one, is this how it should look?


----------



## Jeff5614

I place my order and paid On Feb 27 and never heard from them regarding a ship date. Sent a message yesterday evening and today received a reply stating they had sold out, something about inventory issues, and they would refund my money or would send another regulator but they didn't know if it was single or dual stage. In other words they screwed up.


----------



## wuhungsix

wow, I remember the auction stating that they had 10 in stock. Must of been only mine, the ONE. I purchase the same day too.


----------



## Left C

Momotaro said:


> http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad for $100 less than the Sumo.
> 
> 
> 
> An FYI that I am surprised Cecil hasn't stated already and *no slam intended* on Oregon Aqua Design (I like their site and some of the products they offer - I will personally be placing an order with them soon) , or a push for us at SuMo, but aside from the solenoid, the linked "after body kit" is not like the SuMo kit we offer for more money.
> 
> SuMo offers more brass fittings, a power cord,tubing, brass check valve and an Ideal metering valve. Shipping fees are included in our price as well. That will account for the price difference.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned the other day, I've purchased two of SuMo's "pre" POST BODY KITS. I was well pleased. Their choice of brass parts is a bit different than what Rex shows in his "How To." SuMo's brass parts are better and wisely chosen. Their kit contained everything that I needed except for the wrenches and pipe joint compound. Their new kit even comes with that compound now.

Before I ordered their kit, I went to Home Depot, Lowe's and local hardware stores trying to find the correct parts. It was a confusing deal. There are several ways and parts combinations to mount the solenoid and needle valve to the regulator plus it is a different arrangement of parts if you want to add a JBJ bubble counter. It was really a PITA since it was my first time building one. I also had to order some parts from Clippard. Phooey!

I contacted Mike and Sergio and I told them that my regulator had a 1/4" NPT port. Then I told them that I wanted a Clippard solenoid and an Ideal Metering valve plus all the brass parts needed to build it. I told them that I was going to use an external bubble counter.

It was very easy doing it this way. A few days later I had my parts. IMO, it was a win/win solution for me. 

If you want to hunt around all over the place to round up everything that you need to build a regulator; go ahead, but it is not easy. Been there ... Done that. :icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

wuhungsix said:


> ... and I know this is suppose to be the safety valve. but since this is the first time inspecting one, is this how it should look?


That safety valve looks different than the ones on my VTS253 regulators. Mine have a 'hat" on them. But, it does look somewhat like the one on this pdf. It looks hollow though. That's odd.

Maybe you should show it to your local Victor dealer or Victor's Support Center to be sure.


----------



## Left C

Here is a CGA Connections used for Gas Tanks Chart that may be useful. http://www.sisweb.com/referenc/tools/cgafitt.htm


----------



## wuhungsix

I just notice that my regulator has a CGA 350 and the tank I ordered has a CGA 320. I take it this is not compatible?:icon_frow


----------



## Left C

wuhungsix said:


> I just notice that my regulator has a CGA 350 and the tank I ordered has a CGA 320. I take it this is not compatible?:icon_frow


The CGA-320 fitting is for CO2 only. The CGA-350 fitting is for gases like carbon monoxide, ethane, ethylene, hydrogen, methane, natural gas and others.

You can remove the CGA-350 nipple and then install a CGA-320 nipple. Hoppy installed one on his DIY thread called "Assembling a CO2 regulator". I've never done this before.


----------



## Left C

The Swagelok metering valve below is not a very fine metering valve. It is a fine metering valve. Its flow rate is better suited for higher bubble counts or used with a pH controller. It is made of chrome plated brass. The price is $24.95 + $7.95 shipping. The listing says that 10 are available. I just ordered one. That leaves 9.

SWAGELOK NUPRO B-2MA2 BRASS FINE METERING VALVE 1/8 NPT:
_Ebay Links removed. - KyleT_

It is a chrome plated brass version of the following stainless steel valve SS-2MA2: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-2MA2

It is $51.23 here: http://www.sisweb.com/cart.htm?action=add;quan=1;pn=B2MA2;source_url=/catalog/08/D56
More info: http://www.sisweb.com/catalog/08/D56


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> The Swagelok metering valve below is not a very fine metering valve. It is a fine metering valve. Its flow rate is better suited for higher bubble counts or used with a pH controller. It is made of chrome plated brass. The price is $24.95 + $7.95 shipping. The listing says that 10 are available. I just ordered one. That leaves 9.
> 
> SWAGELOK NUPRO B-2MA2 BRASS FINE METERING VALVE 1/8 NPT:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/SWAGELOK-NUPRO-...ptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
> 
> It is a chrome plated brass version of the following stainless steel valve SS-2MA2: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-2MA2
> 
> It is $51.23 here: http://www.sisweb.com/cart.htm?action=add;quan=1;pn=B2MA2;source_url=/catalog/08/D56
> More info: http://www.sisweb.com/catalog/08/D56


Thanks Left C. I grabbed two.


----------



## wuhungsix

*CGA 320 nut*

So I just came back from my local welding supply shop and they sold me just the CGA 320 nut ($3). I thought I had to get the whole nipple but he insisted that I didn't. Is this correct? He also mention to place the nipple in a vice and twist it off to aviod stripping when I change them out.


----------



## wuhungsix

after a little bit of Googling, it looks like they were wrong. the CGA 320 nipple appears to be flat while the CGA 350 rounded. Arrgh. I asked him if he was sure too.


----------



## Left C

This thread started because several of us had the chrome plated medical grade dual stage CO2 regulators that are listed as model VTS253A-1993. We were very pleased with them. This spawned the Victor Pimp Club. Other models of single and dual stage Victor regulators were gladly welcomed into this club.

As this thread evolved, it is mostly about dual stage regulators. I feel that the people that have any brand of dual stage regulators should have their place in this club too.

What do you think about this? Should it be Victor regulators only club or should we have a “sub-club” of people with dual stage regulators? All thoughts and ideas are welcome. Do we need some type of poll? Or, should we just keep it simple and keep it the same way that it is now? Thoughts?


----------



## lizziotti

I vote for the sub-club! But that's because I have a Concoa!


----------



## Hoppy

If the dues are over $5, I vote to keep it pure, but if less than $5 I vote to let us non-Victor people in. And, I never did like initiation rites.


----------



## BrianO

I wouldn’t be surprised if a lot of the folk that recently bought dual stage Concoa regulators on ebay, did so as a result of this thread.


----------



## Left C

Hoppy said:


> If the dues are over $5, I vote to keep it pure, but if less than $5 I vote to let us non-Victor people in. And, I never did like initiation rites.


So, you wouldn't favor making your own fraternity paddle and letting us use it for initiation? :hihi:


----------



## Left C

Are there anymore comments or thoughts about anyone with either a Victor and/or dual stage regulator being this club?

How should we name a sub-club? "Victor and Dual Stage Pimp Club"??? The original members with Victor regulators and anyone that uses a Victor regulator in the future will simply be in the "Victor Pimp Club". OK ??? Please, let me know. 

Wouldn't your member number be based on the order that you posted to be included like we have been doing?

Thanks,
Left C


----------



## Left C

*HELPFUL POSTS* 

This has been moved to Page 1: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-dual-stage-regulator-pimp-club.html


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> Are there anymore comments or thoughts about anyone with either a Victor and/or dual stage regulator being this club?
> 
> How should we name a sub-club? "Victor and Dual Stage Pimp Club"??? The original members with Victor regulators and anyone that uses a Victor regulator in the future will simply be in the "Victor Pimp Club". OK ??? Please, let me know.
> 
> Wouldn't your member number be based on the order that you posted to be included like we have been doing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Left C


Doesn't matter to me. Dual stage regulators across the board are superior to any regulator made for aquarium use. That's what matters to me.

Great Recap on the bullet points Left C. - Thanks.
Just an fyi- the page numbers are not relevant because it's a thread edit option in user CP.


----------



## Left C

fordtrannyman said:


> Doesn't matter to me. Dual stage regulators across the board are superior to any regulator made for aquarium use. That's what matters to me.


I agree.



fordtrannyman said:


> Great Recap on the bullet points Left C. - Thanks.
> Just an fyi- the page numbers are not relevant because it's a thread edit option in user CP.


Thanks.

I got tired of trying to find information by sifting through this thread and I decided to do this. I hope some people find it helpful.

All the links are Permalinks. Click on them and you are there. You don't have to hunt for them.

I added the Post Numbers and Page Numbers just to kill a little time.:icon_smil


----------



## rrrrramos

Just purchased a VTS-253A and its on its way!


----------



## Left C

rrrrramos said:


> Just purchased a VTS-253A and it's on its way!


Hi

I'm very glad that you found one.

You are #24 in the Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club. I just added your name to the club list.

Where did you find your VTS-253A? I don't see them around like they used to.

Left C


----------



## lizziotti

Left C said:


> I agree.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I got tired of trying to find information by sifting through this thread and I decided to do this. I hope some people find it helpful.
> 
> All the links are Permalinks. Click on them and you are there. You don't have to hunt for them.
> 
> I added the Post Numbers and Page Numbers just to kill a little time.:icon_smil


I think that's a great idea because this thread is huge!roud:


----------



## brion0

Left C said:


> I agree.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I got tired of trying to find information by sifting through this thread and I decided to do this. I hope some people find it helpful.
> 
> All the links are Permalinks. Click on them and you are there. You don't have to hunt for them.
> 
> I added the Post Numbers and Page Numbers just to kill a little time.:icon_smil


Ive been using this, an it is helpful could you link it to the first post? I have to skip around to get to it, or am I just being to lazy?:icon_smil


----------



## rrrrramos

I found an older post in the S&S and asked if it was still available, and lucky me it was! 



Left C said:


> Hi
> 
> I'm very glad that you found one.
> 
> You are #24 in the Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club. I just added your name to the club list.
> 
> Where did you find your VTS-253A? I don't see them around like they used to.
> 
> Left C


----------



## Left C

brion0 said:


> Ive been using this, an it is helpful could you link it to the first post? I have to skip around to get to it, or am I just being to lazy?:icon_smil


The very first one is a link to the first post:
Victor Regulator Pimp Club Start: Post #1 – Page 1: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club.html#post674995

Is this what you mean?


----------



## brion0

I ment this, http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-38.html#post802489, on the first post. Sorry if I wasn't clear.

I won a Matheson 3104C two stage regulator on Ebay tonight. I'm not positive it will work, but the price was low. Does anyone know if it will? I've got all the other parts on the way. So with any luck I can have every thing put together in a week or two. Maby a "Matheson Pimp club"?

Thanks


----------



## james0816

Hidy Ho good neighbors! Can I join this exclusive club? I just got a VTS253C.


----------



## Left C

james0816 said:


> Hidy Ho good neighbors! Can I join this exclusive club? I just got a VTS253C.


Welcome james0816

You certainly may join this club. You are Victor Pimp Club Member #25.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-29.html#post772761


----------



## Left C

brion0 said:


> I ment this, http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-38.html#post802489, on the first post. Sorry if I wasn't clear.


 Woops! I thought that I did provide a link to it. It is fixed now. That particular brain cell must have evaporated.

Thank you for pointing it out.


brion0 said:


> I won a Matheson 3104C two stage regulator on Ebay tonight. I'm not positive it will work, but the price was low. Does anyone know if it will? I've got all the other parts on the way. So with any luck I can have every thing put together in a week or two.


You will have to get a CGA-320 nipple and nut. The ones that I saw in Google had a CGA-580 fitting.



brion0 said:


> Maybe a "Matheson Pimp club"?
> 
> Thanks


We will probably add dual stage regulator owners to the Victor club.


----------



## brion0

Left C said:


> Woops! I thought that I did provide a link to it. It is foxed now. That particular brain cell must have evaporated.
> 
> Thank you for pointing it out.
> You will have to get a CGA-320 nipple and nut. The ones that I saw in Google had a CGA-580 fitting.
> 
> We will probably add dual stage regulator owners to the Victor club.


The regulator I bought doesn't have a nipple, may be why it went so cheap. I called the local Airgas store, they told me that I could get my bottle filled an buy a CGA 320 nipple from them.

Thanks


----------



## Left C

brion0 said:


> The regulator I bought doesn't have a nipple, may be why it went so cheap. I called the local Airgas store, they told me that I could get my bottle filled an buy a CGA 320 nipple from them.
> 
> Thanks


That is good to know.

The man that was selling the chrome Victor regulators on eBay, mrmotorcycles, told bsmith that Matheson and Concoa are very good regulators.


----------



## rrrrramos

Oh look what came in the mail today:









  













Now I've gotta find a solenoid, a needle valve, a bubble counter and get a seal. 
I think my plan to keep it under $100 kinda went out the door, huh


----------



## fordtrannyman

Sweet rrrrramos! Don't forget about the fittings and a good check valve.
FYI: Solenoid is only needed if you plan to use a timer or PH Controller.


----------



## Left C

That's very nice, rrrrramos.

You can get a solenoid, CO2 tubing and (I suggest) 2 check valves directly from Clippard.

The needle/metering valve choices are narrowed to mainly Fabco, Swagelok and Ideal.

You can DIY a bubble counter if you want.

Or, I really like SuMo's new Post Body Kit.


----------



## james0816

Ok...I'm a complete and total noob to presurized so would like to get some assistance. Here is a pic of my wares (the 253c on a 20lb steel bottle - $75).

What is the knob on the bottom left? It looks like it may be some type of valve.

I was looking at FloridaDriftwood.com for solenoid. Is there any better places for the solenoid and needle valves that won't break the bank?


----------



## bsmith

The knob is for flow control. It isnt fine enough to use for fine tuning bubble count though. From time to time ppl on the site sell nice Swagelok NV's but there is no telling when they are available.


----------



## Left C

james0816 said:


> OK...I'm a complete and total noob to pressurized so would like to get some assistance. Here is a pic of my wares (the 253c on a 20lb steel bottle - $75).
> 
> What is the knob on the bottom left? It looks like it may be some type of valve.
> 
> I was looking at FloridaDriftwood.com for solenoid. Is there any better places for the solenoid and needle valves that won't break the bank?


I highly suggest *Sumo's Post Regulator Kit*. All the parts are excellent and the kit comes with everything that you need to build a great regulator. It even comes with pipe compound. With your VTS253C-320 regulator and SuMo's kit, you will have one of the very best CO2 assemblies that are available.

I have two of SuMo's "pre" kits and I am very pleased with them. This may sound like a joke, but it is very far away from being a joke. It is the truth. Your regulator and Sumo's kit make things much better than a Ronco product: "You Set It and Forget It for Months! 

I'm using Ideal and Swagelok metering valves with Clippard and Burkert solenoids. All of these parts are very good. I can't say that a certain needle valve or a certain solenoid is better than the other. All of these parts are very good. I have a spare Fabco needle valve, but I haven't used it yet.

I hope that you can get one of the better kits for your VTS-253C-320 regulator. Your regulator will be one of the very best.

If this kit isn't what you want, there are options. Just let us know. 

Hoppy has some very good info about his DIY regulator assembly that may help you as well: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator.html


----------



## rrrrramos

I'm not really looking to keep it under $100 anymore, plus I want it to look nice so a DIY bubble counter is out of the question haha
I'm thinking I'm going to go with a Fabco NV, get the other items you suggested from Clippard, and most likely go with a brass bubble counter, but I'll need a second one, along with a two line manifold once I set it up onto my other tank.



Left C said:


> That's very nice, rrrrramos.
> 
> You can get a solenoid, CO2 tubing and (I suggest) 2 check valves directly from Clippard.
> 
> The needle/metering valve choices are narrowed to mainly Fabco, Swagelok and Ideal.
> 
> You can DIY a bubble counter if you want.
> 
> Or, I really like SuMo's new Post Body Kit.






Edit: Also; when I get this cylinder filled will it be heavier, like, enough to prevent the whole unit from tipping like it currently is when I test fit it?


----------



## Left C

I was trying to help you on the $, but it seems that you know what you want.

Good Job!


----------



## rrrrramos

Haha yeah, I figure I might as well get some decent stuff, I'm planning to make this last for a while & all. Is there any place that sells everything I need? The SuMo is a little high for me, I know its the best quality but I can't really afford to spend _that _much. I also need a seal and fittings and check valves & all. GLA seems like it has everything but the solenoid & fittings. 

Also I think I edited it after anyone looked at this thread, but I test fit the regulator on my cylinder and the things heavier than the cylinder. When I get it filled will it have enough weight to keep it from tipping over? Or do I need to build some sort of stand to hold it as I've got 13.5" of clearance under my tank and the co2 tank alone is 14" tall :/


----------



## oregon aqua

rrrrramos said:


> Also I think I edited it after anyone looked at this thread, but I test fit the regulator on my cylinder and the things heavier than the cylinder. When I get it filled will it have enough weight to keep it from tipping over? Or do I need to build some sort of stand to hold it as I've got 13.5" of clearance under my tank and the co2 tank alone is 14" tall :/


All Co2 tanks should be strapped or prevented from tipping some way just for the safety factor. A Co2 tank can be very dangerous if not respected=0)


----------



## rrrrramos

I may just build a little wooden base for it on my day off then!


----------



## james0816

Left C said:


> I highly suggest *Sumo's Post Regulator Kit*.


While this does look nice, the price got me a bit. I know it's not gonna be cheap but would like to knock it down a bit. ;o)


----------



## Left C

james0816 said:


> While this does look nice, the price got me a bit. I know it's not gonna be cheap but would like to knock it down a bit. ;o)


I have 2 of their early kits. I'm very pleased. 

Orlando doesn't sell regulator parts from what I've read anymore. 

You can try Rex Grigg. He can supply you with the brass parts, needle/metering valve, solenoid, a DIY bubble counter, DIY reactor, check valves, CO2 tubing, etc.

I don't know if Rex's kit may be cheaper than SuMo's. He carries Fabco needle valves (~ $35 to $40 cheaper) as well as Ideal metering valves.


----------



## lizziotti

yes I got mine from Rex his package is cheaper even with the ideal http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html but if you are in a rush you are probably better off going through Sumo.


----------



## Left C

rrrrramos said:


> ... but I test fit the regulator on my cylinder and the things heavier than the cylinder. When I get it filled will it have enough weight to keep it from tipping over? Or do I need to build some sort of stand to hold it as I've got 13.5" of clearance under my tank and the co2 tank alone is 14" tall :/





oregon aqua said:


> All CO2 tanks should be strapped or prevented from tipping some way just for the safety factor. A CO2 tank can be very dangerous if not respected=0)


Like you said, dual stage regulators are heavy and they can easily topple over when they are mounted on lightweight cylinders. My regulator hasn't been damaged when it toppled over, though. The Voctor dual stage regulators are built like "tanks."

I have two 20# and two 5# cylinders. One if each size is made of aluminum and one of each size is made of steel.

Both of the 20# cylinders are stable. The 5# aliminum cylinder will easily topple over and it needs to be mounted securely. I just swapped out a 5# aluminum cylinder for a #5 steel cylinder. It seems stable when full, but I don't know how stable it will be when it gets nearly empty.

rrrrramos , you should follow oregon aqua's advice and strap the CO2 cylinder down or prevented from tipping over by some way just for the safety factor.


----------



## rrrrramos

Left C said:


> rrrrramos , you should follow oregon aqua's advice and strap the CO2 cylinder down or prevented from tipping over by some way just for the safety factor.


Already got a holder for it made up ready to be attached to the stand


Does the Sumo post-body kit come with everything I'll need, or will there be more I'll need to get?


----------



## Left C

rrrrramos said:


> Already got a holder for it made up ready to be attached to the stand
> 
> 
> Does the Sumo post-body kit come with everything I'll need, or will there be more I'll need to get?


I didn't have to purchase anything extra with my "pre-kits."

The following comes from their site: http://sumoregulator.com/
Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on 
Ideal metering valve
JBJ Bubble Counter
Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing 
A brass check valve 
All of the fittings you'll need
Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections
ALL IN ONE PLACE!.

I like to run a check valve before and after my bubble counter even though the JBJ bubble counters come with their own bubble counter. That is the only extra part that I would purchase,


----------



## ryanmess

found this goes over the build of some victor older models thought u all might like. http://www.sealseat.com/pdf/VICTOR.pdf


----------



## Left C

Wow! 15,000 views.:icon_bigg


----------



## brion0

Left C said:


> Wow! 15,000 views.:icon_bigg


About 30 of those are me. I got my system put together yesterday. I know its not a Victor, but its a two stage, an I got alot of the info I needed to build it here, So thanks LeftC.


----------



## Left C

That's a nice looking rig. I guess that you know that Matheson regulators are very good too.

You are very welcome and I am glad that this thread helped you.


----------



## brion0

I think they are used in hospitols an labs mostly. This one is heavy, an has two regulated out puts, an one high presure out.


----------



## Left C

What is its part number?


----------



## Complexity

Hey, Left C, I'm finally about to order that kit so I can start using my Victor regulator. But I just realized I never got a pimp number. What's my number? I want to start pimping now even though I don't have it connected yet. :smile:


----------



## brion0

Left C said:


> What is its part number?


Its a 3104C, I looked on Matheson tri gas.com, but it's not listed there.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Hey, Left C, I'm finally about to order that kit so I can start using my Victor regulator. But I just realized I never got a pimp number. What's my number? I want to start pimping now even though I don't have it connected yet. :smile:


Welcome, Complexity! You are Pimp #27!!

*Victor CO2 Regulator Pimp Club Members*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity


I'm glad that you are planning on getting it going. I didn't know if you had it going or not. Have you decided on the parts for your kit?


----------



## Left C

brion0 said:


> Its a 3104C, I looked on Matheson tri gas.com, but it's not listed there.


Is it like this one?


----------



## brion0

Left C said:


> Is it like this one?


Yes, thats the same regulator. I got mine for less than they want for shipping on that one. I have seen a couple go through for around $55 shipped. Heres one realy cheap, http://cgi.ebay.com/MATHESON-COMPRE...1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
You couldent buy the gauges for this much.


----------



## Left C

I ordered one of the Victor high purity dual stage regulators from eBay and they sent me an extra regulator. The shipper told me to just keep it when I asked about returning it. It is a Matheson 8L-350.


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> Welcome, Complexity! You are Pimp #27!!


Thank you! I'm-a-pimpin' now! :hihi:


> I'm glad that you are planning on getting it going. I didn't know if you had it going or not. Have you decided on the parts for your kit?


I'm getting the post body kit from SuMo, but they're out of the Ideal metering valve so I have to wait until they come in. Should be in a day or two.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Thank you! I'm-a-pimpin' now! :hihi:
> 
> 
> I'm getting the post body kit from SuMo, but they're out of the Ideal metering valve so I have to wait until they come in. Should be in a day or two.


Which aquarium are you going to use with your Victor regulator?


----------



## Complexity

You have to ask? My 75g, of course! :biggrin:

Maybe one day my little 29g will grow up to be as important as my 75g, but it's not there yet! Right now, it's having too much fun with the algae stage. :hihi: I got a replacement electrode for the pH controller, only to receive a bad electrode. And the seller has ignored my email. So I'm going to contact Milwaukee for a replacement. If I can get the CO2 straightened out in that tank, then I can start working with it. But until then, it's just a mess.

Eventually, I do want to upgrade the 29g to something larger. Maybe something 3' long? I'm getting good equipment now so it can grow later. So I'm sure I'll end up getting a really nice regulator for it, too, but I have to watch my spending until my husband finds another job. We have no idea how long he'll be looking, given the economy, so the Milwaukee regulator will have to do for the 29g for now.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> You have to ask? My 75g, of course! :biggrin:
> 
> Maybe one day my little 29g will grow up to be as important as my 75g, but it's not there yet! Right now, it's having too much fun with the algae stage. :hihi: I got a replacement electrode for the pH controller, only to receive a bad electrode. And the seller has ignored my email. So I'm going to contact Milwaukee for a replacement. If I can get the CO2 straightened out in that tank, then I can start working with it. But until then, it's just a mess.
> 
> Eventually, I do want to upgrade the 29g to something larger. Maybe something 3' long? I'm getting good equipment now so it can grow later. So I'm sure I'll end up getting a really nice regulator for it, too, but I have to watch my spending until my husband finds another job. We have no idea how long he'll be looking, given the economy, so the Milwaukee regulator will have to do for the 29g for now.


I'm sorry that your husband is trying to find a job. The economy is really crazy. The USA might be a third world country before too long.

I was thinking that you got the regulator for a new aquarium that you are setting up.

I'm sure you know this. Sometimes there are Swagelok metering valves on eBay from time to time and at cheap prices. I got a nice one for $0.99 plus shipping. Something like that may perk up your Milwaukee regulator.


----------



## Complexity

Thanks for the suggestion. I might try that later at some point, but right now, I'm mainly focusing on the Victor I have. I've had it too long without even trying to use it that it's a real shame.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Thanks for the suggestion. I might try that later at some point, but right now, I'm mainly focusing on the Victor I have. I've had it too long without even trying to use it that it's a real shame.


The only reason that I mentioned it the other day is that there is a SS-SS1-A Swagelok metering valve that has been on eBay for awhile. Its starting bid is $9.95 and it is called "Low-Flow Angle-Pattern Metering Valve, 1/16" Swagelok" on eBay. My local Swagelok dealer has it listed for $135.51. It requires adapters that I can help you with plus a special tightening sequence that is listed in the tubing info below. There is a video too.

More info:
pics of many Swagelok metering valves - http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-142.PDF
tubing and tightening info with video too - http://www.swagelok.com/fittings/tube_fittings/tube_fittings_overview.htm


*EDIT: *fittings
http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_results.aspx

Swagelok Tube Fitting, Male Connector, 1/16 in Tube OD x 1/8 in MNPT
B-100-1-2
SS-100-1-2BT
SS-100-1-2
B-100-1-2BT

Swagelok Tube Fitting, Male Connector, 1/16 in Tube OD x 1/16 in MNPT
B-100-1-1
B-100-1-1BT
NY-100-1-1
SS-100-1-1
SS-100-1-1BT










The picture above shows two types of Swagelok tubing x male NPT adapters. Swagelok doesn't offer the adapter on the right in the 1/16" size. It is avalible in only sizes larger than 1/16". This would be a better adapter to use than the one on the left that requires a piece of tubing (Swagelok, poly, copper, etc.) between the adapter and the metering valve.


----------



## Complexity

You drive me nutty! :hihi: You're going to get me to learn all the parts and how to use them little by little through enticing me with lots of goodies! Found it and am watching.

Can you help me with one teeny-tiny question? What _IS_ a metering valve? :icon_lol: Is this something I would add to the Milwaukee or would it replace something already on it? I'm thinking this is the part that does the fine tuning of the bubbles being dosed? But that's a needle valve. So I'm confused.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> You drive me nutty! :hihi: You're going to get me to learn all the parts and how to use them little by little through enticing me with lots of goodies! Found it and am watching.


Yep, but only if I think that you can use it/them and/or it/they is/are a bargain. :wink:



Complexity said:


> Can you help me with one teeny-tiny question? What _IS_ a metering valve? :icon_lol: Is this something I would add to the Milwaukee or would it replace something already on it? I'm thinking this is the part that does the fine tuning of the bubbles being dosed? But that's a needle valve. So I'm confused.


You got it right. A metering valve is basically a more precise needle valve. Many people suggest that you should use a metering valve or a very good quality needle valve on an aquarium CO2 system. Your SuMo Post Body Kit comes with an excellent Ideal metering valve. Many people recommend replacing the needle valve on the Milwaukee regulator. Here is a recent thread about replacement.

Clippard, Milwaukee, JBJ, Azoo, etc. - imprecise needle valves
Fabco - very good needle valve plus a new metering valve
Ideal - very good metering valve, comes in brass and SS, most used 52-1-12 and 54-1-2
Swagelok - many different models of needle and metering valves, very high quality, low-flow and medium flow metering valves are suggested for our aquariums, available in SS and chrome-plated brass


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> Yep, but only if I think that you can use it/them and/or it/they is/are a bargain. :wink:


I know! And you've been a tremendous help! Without you, I would have never ventured past Milwaukee even though I really don't like it much. It's going to be interesting to see how the Victor feels once I begin using it.


----------



## Left C

Thanks.


----------



## PRESTON4479

I'm in the process of building a two stage regulator (not a victor though). I would just like to say thanks for the very informative thread 'Left C'. I was wondering about the Clippard solenoid valves and you explained it all. I'll be ordering mine without the cord and wiring it myself.:thumbsup:

Also thanks to 'Hoppy' for this thread

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/82604-assembling-co2-regulator.html

How about a TSR pimp club?


----------



## Left C

Thank you very much, Brian. There are really many people that make this thread helpful and I am thankful for their information and help.

epicfish posted this image, but the PDF has expired. I hope he will post it again.



epicfish said:


> Here's an image from the PDF:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's the PDF: http://www.yousendit.com/download/Y2ovYkJzR3N0d0UwTVE9PQ


----------



## PRESTON4479

Very nice! It doesn't get any easier than that.


----------



## Left C

You can order Victor chrome plated, high purity dual stage regulators through Michigan Reefers. Brass and chrome plated CGA-320 nipples and nuts are available too. Then you may need a post body kit.

*Post Body Kits*
SuMo Aquarium Regulators: http://sumoregulator.com/
Oregon Aqua Design: http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits


Max Inlet Pressure 3K psi
Max Outlet Pressure 40 psi

Manufactured by *Victor*

Model No. HPT272B-350 http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT270-280.pdf
Model No. HPT270B-250
Model No. SGT500-40-350-DK http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/SGT500.pdf
Model No. SGT500-40-4F-DK
Model No. SG1500-40-350-DK
Model No. GPT270B
Model No. GPT270-125-590-BV 

*Victor HPT270B-250
High Purity 2 Stage Regulators*
These Regulators are recommended for the delivery of noncorrosive high purity gases and calibration mixtures used in gas chromatography and other sensitive laboratory equipment. They offer maximum control of delivery pressure regardless of fluctuations in cylinder pressure. Both diaphragms are stainless steel, which will not contaminate the gas stream and are highly resistant to inboard diffusion of atmospheric contaminants.

*Features:*
• Pure- Stainless steel diaphragms offer resistance to inboard diffusion of contaminants.
• Dependable- Kel-F seats and double inlet filtering offer longer life with less maintenance.
• Safe- External self-reseating relief valve provides maximum regulator protection.
• Durable- All components are chrome-plated giving long lasting durability and attractive appearance.

*Thermadyne PDF:* http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_1175_56-0874.pdf


*Please send all questions about these regulators to the Michigan Reefers thread above.*


*Edit 3/26/09:* I just got a PM from jaysreef at MichiganReefers.com. These Victor high purity dual stage regulators come with a brass CGA-320 fitting and a Swagelok reducing fitting to attach your regulator. The chrome CGA-320 fitting is extra cost.

Edit 3/29/09: Please note that the contact has been moved to the Michigan Reefers site.


----------



## bsmith

Nice find C. The Oregon Aqua link isnt working for me though.


----------



## lovingHDTV

bsmith782 said:


> Nice find C. The Oregon Aqua link isnt working for me though.


I just tried it and it worked fine.

I bought this kit with the Fabco NV55 upgrade and it has been working solid with my Harris regulator. I'm very happy with it.

dave


----------



## bsmith

I have been having issues with certian sites all day. Im about to throw my CPU down a flight of stairs.



lovingHDTV said:


> I just tried it and it worked fine.
> 
> I bought this kit with the Fabco NV55 upgrade and it has been working solid with my Harris regulator. I'm very happy with it.
> 
> dave


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Nice find C. ...


The person that has them seems like a very nice person. He actually has worked with these regulators that are for sale. All of these regulators have stainless steel diaphragms and all of them can be used with CO2 by simply swapping out the CGA fitting.

Also, the SGT500 models have bodies made of 316L Stainless Steel bar stock.
http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/SGT500.pdf


----------



## Left C

I just received a PM from jaysreef. To make it easier, place your Victor dual stage high purity regulator orders through Michigan Reefers now. There are many regulators for sale. Please note that these regulators come with a brass CGA-320 nipple and a Swagelok stainless steel 1/4" MNTP x 1/8" MNPT bushing. A chrome CGA-320 nipple and nut is extra.

I ordered a SGT500-40 regulator plus the optional chrome plated CGA-320 nipple. The SGT500 regulators have a forged stainless steel body and they are chrome plated. They also have stainless steel diaphragms. Here is a PDF about them: http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/SGT500.pdf


----------



## bsmith

I just have to post up another excellent experience with my victor and emptieng another tank of co2. I let it get down to where it MAY have gone another day. I couldnt even read the cylinder pressure on the guage, but as usual my working pressure stayed at 15psi and my bubble rate was constant. After I took the regulator off the cylinder I opened it up to let whatever was out and it barely made a pffftttt!


----------



## Complexity

Hey guys, my Post Body Kit arrived! Hopefully, this coming week, I can get it all put together and start using my Victor regulator!

I hope you're ready to hold my hand while answering silly questions as I try to put it together. I could have it put together for free at the place I got my CO2 (can't remember the name right now, but it's a decent place), but I decided I would really like to try to do it myself. As long as it's not too physically demanding (hand strength), then I should be able to do it. And in doing it myself, I will learn a lot more than if I had someone else do it.

So... go run and hide now because this next week it won't be safe around here. I'll be asking for help on every tiny detail! :hihi:


----------



## Left C

I look forward to it. 

A vice might be needed.

The plug that you remove so that you can install the 1/4" x 1/8" adapter is on very tight.

I had to stand on my regulator and lock two wrenches together to get enough leverage to get it off. That was my first one. It looked like I was playing the game "Twister" with wrenches and a regulator.

Installing the parts isn't too bad. You can get w/o a vice but it is much easier with one.

You can use my picture below to see what it will look like. This regulator has a Burkert solenoid and your's has a Clippard. The brass parts should be very close to the same. I got brass parts locally, from Sergio and from Orlando.










SuMo Post Body Kit










Relaxing Rock ... Hypnotized by Fleetwood Mac: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yg4KMEg34Jc

You might get aggravated and say, "Oh well." Peter Green's Fleetwood Mac: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KE4HGlmtOcg&feature=related


----------



## Complexity

Oh, I have plenty of vices! I've tried to cut down on a few, but so far, no luck.

Umm... were you referring to a tool? :icon_eek:

Can you please show me a picture of the kind of vice you're talking about? We have one that looks similar to this one on a table in the garage, but it's very wobbly and doesn't work very well. There's almost no clearance to work where it is.

If it's that hard to remove, then I might be better off taking it to the shop to have them take it off. Then I can try to do the rest myself.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Oh, I have plenty of vices! I've tried to cut down on a few, but so far, no luck.
> 
> Umm... were you referring to a tool? :icon_eek:


I haven't had much luck either.



Complexity said:


> Can you please show me a picture of the kind of vice you're talking about? We have one that looks similar to this one on a table in the garage, but it's very wobbly and doesn't work very well. There's almost no clearance to work where it is.


It might work.

Something like the one in the picture is better.











Complexity said:


> If it's that hard to remove, then I might be better off taking it to the shop to have them take it off. Then I can try to do the rest myself.


It is on tight. 

What I found out is that you can clamp the part that you need to remove in a vice and turn the regular. If it is still hard to twist, use a wrench connected to your regulator for more leverage and unscrew it. Make sure that you don't scratch or damage your regulator.


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> Something like the one in the picture is better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is on tight.
> 
> What I found out is that you can clamp the part that you need to remove in a vice and turn the regular. If it is still hard to twist, use a wrench connected to your regulator for more leverage and unscrew it. Make sure that you don't scratch or damage your regulator.


Nice Vise! I have one just like that with 7" Jaws, I even painted it Ford Blue too! It's strong enough to hold the guts from a T5 trans assy. while I press the gear sets together.

I found in most cases, it is indeed easier to hold the part using the vise and twist the regulator while holding the body. A stack of folded rags or a couple pieces of wood between the jaws of the vise and the component being clamped will protect it from getting scratched or damaged.


----------



## Complexity

Those vices are much nicer than what I have! I see they are actually bolted down to the table instead of the kind I have. Well, okay, it's my husband's from before we were married (and we just celebrated our 24th anniversary!).

Are the kind you guys have very expensive? I can now see why the vice we have has not done well for me. I won't need it very often, but when I need it, I need it to work.

Thanks, fordtrannyman, for the advice on how to keep from scratching it. I was wondering how to do it.

That's also something that concerns me if I have the shop remove it for me. Will they scratch it up a lot? Scratches won't affect its function, but when it's something nice like this, you want to keep it looking good.


----------



## Left C

Tell them not to scratch it.


----------



## loKey

ha, ordered one of the SGT500's with chrome fittings as well from the michigan reef guys. yeah they're really nice guys. they're asking extra for the chrome but i like shiny.


----------



## loKey

btw, you can also get in touch with them through ebay if you dont want a reefcentral account. just mention you want the cga320 fittings. 
_Ebay link removed._


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> Tell them not to scratch it.


I don't have the impression these are the kind of guys that listens to "don't scratch it" requests.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> I don't have the impression these are the kind of guys that listens to "don't scratch it" requests.


Tell them that you will scratch their eyes out if they mess up your regulator.


----------



## Left C

They aren't at Reef Central any more.

They have moved to Michigan Reefers because it is easier for them. 

This is mentioned a few posts back. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-42.html#post814751


----------



## Left C

One of our club members won on eBay a brand new dual stage chrome plated Concoa 2122351 regulator for $9.99 plus shipping. That is one "dell of a heal!"


----------



## lizziotti

Left C said:


> One of our club members won on eBay a brand new dual stage chrome plated Concoa 2122351 regulator for $9.99 plus shipping. That is one "dell of a heal!"


Don't even tell me that Left C! :icon_cry:


----------



## Left C

I'm glad that he got a good deal. It will work well with his Victor VTS253A-320. 

This thread was started on two basic concepts. One is to let people know about these high quality regulators by providing good, sound information and the other is how to save money with them. Over time, it has added much information about dual stage regulators and their differences with single stage regulators.


----------



## lizziotti

Yeah I know I'm glad he got a good deal too, just messing with ya! I paid more but worth it! I agree this thread has definitely helped people including myself I'm always suggesting people who are thinking of co2 to read it. I also mention your name too hope you don't mind.


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> Tell them that you will scratch their eyes out if they mess up your regulator.


Oh, sure... You can just see me saying this! To people who are doing me a favor! For free! :icon_eek:

Too bad I didn't have the pieces shipped to you so you could put it together... completely scratch free! Then you could ship it to me with your own personal stamp of approval of the work done. :hihi:


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Yeah I know I'm glad he got a good deal too, just messing with ya! I paid more but worth it! I agree this thread has definitely helped people including myself I'm always suggesting people who are thinking of co2 to read it. I also mention your name too hope you don't mind.


Thank you for the nice complement. I just bought one too for a bit more money. Sure, you can use this thread and my name to help people.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Oh, sure... You can just see me saying this! To people who are doing me a favor! For free! :icon_eek:


Tell your hubby to get it off scratch free or else OR place your rolling pin into your purse and Have it showing so that they can see it when you take your regulator in.












Complexity said:


> Too bad I didn't have the pieces shipped to you so you could put it together... completely scratch free! Then you could ship it to me with your own personal stamp of approval of the work done. :hihi:


I'm glad that you didn't.


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> Tell your hubby to get it off scratch free...


OMG, NO! :icon_eek: You don't understand. He's really smart. I mean _very_ smart. Seriously! A card-carrying member of Mensa. Lots of gears working inside that skull of his.

However...

He is absolutely NOT mechanically inclined at all! Not even close. Not even if I show him how to do it.

Here's an example... So I take the python style water changer off his bathroom sink, but forget to screw the aerator back on. He sees it there and tries to put it on himself. I just happened to walk in about this time, and I see him struggling to get the threads to match up. He struggles, and struggles, and struggles (the whole time, I'm biting my tongue), until he turns to me and announces, "It's broken!"

Okay, I can bite my tongue only for so long. He goes on to show me how the threaded part of the faucet can wiggle a little which, he concludes, means it's broken, and that's why he cannot put the aerator back on. I walk over to my sink and show him that my faucet has the very same movement. I then get the aerator, screw it on, turn the water on to show it's all fixed, and tell him that it's not broken.

Multiply this scene out for 24 years of marriage.

Now do you know why I don't have any tools or help with these things? Taking things apart, fixing them, and putting them back together is not his area at all. I do all of that. I'm just getting older so I'm not as strong as I used to be, and I haven't been around this kind of equipment before. But I'm a quick study.



> I'm glad that you didn't.


Careful there... It's not too late, yet. You might end up with a surprise box at your doorstep! :hihi:


----------



## Left C

That is a good story, Complexity. I've been laughing for a few minutes now.


----------



## Left C

Complexity, I'm putting my computer in the shop Thursday. I might get it back Friday or Saturday. If you don't hear from me, that is why.


----------



## Complexity

Yeah, yeah... good story. I know you're really running away from me while I'm sitting here thinking of shipping my stuff to you to put it together with NO scratches or I'll beat you with my rolling pin! :icon_lol:

Seriously though, I hope your computer is fixed without any problems. If it's a PC, there's a lot of talk about the 'Conflicker' virus supposedly going to wreak havoc tomorrow (April Fool's Day), but it could be just hype. Good thing you're waiting until Thursday for your repairs!


----------



## Left C

http://tech.yahoo.com/blogs/null/132464;_ylt=AnF7ZIVsJDUw1L6bARD_LR8azJV4

I've been doing some Virus scans today and nothing turned up. I have PC-cillin and I just did a scan from this free Windows model. http://onecare.live.com/site/en-us/default.htm?s_cid=sah


----------



## Complexity

I did some virus scans, too... 

...but I forget what decade it was. :hihi:

I have a Mac. :biggrin:


----------



## PRESTON4479

brion0 said:


> About 30 of those are me. I got my system put together yesterday. I know its not a Victor, but its a two stage, an I got alot of the info I needed to build it here, So thanks LeftC.



Brion0,

Is that a parker solenoid? If it is, I was wondering how well it is working? I couldn't pass on that ebay deal. I thought I would try it out. Also looks like a great place to mount the fabco nv55.


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> I did some virus scans, too...
> 
> ...but I forget what decade it was. :hihi:
> 
> I have a Mac. :biggrin:


Are you rubbing it in that you don't have to worry about this worm?


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> Are you rubbing it in that you don't have to worry about this worm?


YES! :biggrin:


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> YES! :biggrin:


----------



## Complexity

:flick: :flick: :flick: :flick: :flick:


----------



## Left C

:icon_lol:


----------



## asil

*I guess I can't be in da pimp club cause.........*

My dad just GAVE me a harris multi stage regulator. model # 92-100. I'ts not a Victor so does this mean i gotta start my own pimp club? 

It's cool to have a dad thats always welding on something. When I mentioned I needed to buy a regulator for my aquariums. He said " I got a dozen extra regulators. I'll just give ya one."

But it's still pretty sad not to be a pimp.:icon_cry: lol.


----------



## lovingHDTV

asil said:


> My dad just GAVE me a harris multi stage regulator. model # 92-100. I'ts not a Victor so does this mean i gotta start my own pimp club?
> 
> It's cool to have a dad thats always welding on something. When I mentioned I needed to buy a regulator for my aquariums. He said " I got a dozen extra regulators. I'll just give ya one."
> 
> But it's still pretty sad not to be a pimp.:icon_cry: lol.


Sure start a Harris Pimp club. I use a model 9296 Harris so I'll be #2 :thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

It has been mentioned a few times about combining any dual stage regulator with the Victor club. Any thoughts?


----------



## helgymatt

Left C said:


> It has been mentioned a few times about combining any dual stage regulator with the Victor club. Any thoughts?


Why not? How about the "quality" regulator club?


----------



## asil

Sweet. I wanna be a member. I am pimp enough to be a member of this fine pimp club.


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> It has been mentioned a few times about combining any dual stage regulator with the Victor club. Any thoughts?


Dual Stage Pimp Club?


----------



## Left C

Here are some ideas for combining and forming a larger club. Members will have Victor and/or dual stage regulators.

Names Suggested:
•	VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB
•	DUAL STAGE PIMP CLUB
•	DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB

What do you folks think of these names? 
Are there any other suggestions for names?

Some people have single stage Victor regulators and they are still included in this club.

Suggestions for Member Numbers and More:
•	The people that are in the pimp club now and in the future that use Victor regulators are still Victor Pimps with their membership number.
•	The people with other models of dual stage regulators are in the V&DSRPC or a club name that we decide. (I just abbreviated for simplicity.) 
•	Your membership number is based on the order that you posted that you want to join.
•	Whether you own a Victor regulator or dual stage regulator, the next membership number is #27. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-co2-regulator-pimp-club-29.html#post772761

Are there any more suggestions?

Who are not eligible to join?

What else?



*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt


----------



## asil

*# 27*

I'll take it. Pimp me up bro. Lmao.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> asil said:
> 
> 
> 
> I'll take it. Pimp me up bro. Lmao.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya be pimped now. You are #27! :thumbsup:
Click to expand...

You are really #28. I'm very sorry about my mistake.


----------



## asil

*Now all I need*

is some gold caps for my teeth:thumbsup::icon_eek:


----------



## Left C

asil said:


> is some gold caps for my teeth:thumbsup::icon_eek:


On the Andy Griffith Show, I always liked Ernest T. Bass' description of a gold tooth that he wanted. He wanted to pull all his top teeth and have a gold tooth placed right in the center so that it would catch the eye of the women that he was courting.. :icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

Anyone that has a dual stage regulator as well as a Victor regulator is welcome to join the "VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB."


----------



## Complexity

Uh oh! I'm already pimp #27! You didn't add me to the list.

asil, you're #28.

Left C, how could you forget me? I'm so crushed! :icon_cry:


----------



## Left C

Complexity said:


> Uh oh! I'm already pimp #27! You didn't add me to the list.
> 
> asil, you're #28.
> 
> Left C, how could you forget me? I'm so crushed! :icon_cry:


I don't know why I made a boo-boo. It was probably a senior moment of something like that. I'm really sorry, Complexity.

Have you had a chance to build your regulator?


----------



## Left C

asil said:


> I'll take it. Pimp me up bro. Lmao.


Hi asil

I made a boo-boo. Complexity is really #27 and you are #28. Is that OK with you?

I'm very sorry about my mistake.

Left C


----------



## helgymatt

Add me! I'm a Matheson pimp


----------



## Left C

helgymatt said:


> Add me! I'm a Matheson pimp


Great! You are #29.

*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt


----------



## asil

*28*

28's ok by me:thumbsup:


----------



## asil

*post body kit...*

Ordered a post body kit from Sumoregulators and i should be up and running in a week or two. Bye Bye DIY!:thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

asil said:


> 28's ok by me:thumbsup:


I'm glad that it is OK with you. I'm sorry about that.

The number 28 reminds me of Robert Yates Racing and Davey Allison.



asil said:


> Ordered a post body kit from Sumoregulators and i should be up and running in a week or two. Bye Bye DIY!:thumbsup:


Doing away with DIY CO2 was one of the best decisions that I made. I know that you will like it too.

You will really like SuMo's post body kit. The Ideal metering valve is very good. I haven't tried a Fabco needle valve yet.


----------



## Jamess

Great thread. I am in the process of getting myself a victor reg. Already got a solenoid and will get the ideal valve.

Are the victor regs that jaysreef on michigan reefers has as good as the ones most of you are using on this forum? I noticed the model number is different. What's the main difference here?

Also, anyone know what will be required to make this australian co2 bottle compatible? I think it's a fairly simple adapter that I need.

Oh and first post on the planted tank 

Regards,

James.


----------



## Left C

Welcome James.

I have a Victor SGT500-40-350 regulator on order from Michigan Reefers. It is chrome plated, dual stage, 316L stainless steel diaphragms and a forged 316L stainless steel body. The 350 signifies that it was used for hydrogen which is a high pressure gas. I had him order a chrome CGA-320 nipple and nut which he will have on Tuesday. I'll probably get the regulator by the weekend.
http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/SGT500.pdf

On eBay is a NIB New Victor VTS 253A-320 Regulator. The A models are great for our use as well as the B, C and D models. It is item #350186260268. He might not ship to Australia though.

The Michigan Reefers regulators are various dual stage high purity regulators that are used at a hospital in Michigan USA. I have a Victor HPT272-40-350-4M that I got from another source. It is really nice.

I really don't know what type of fitting/adapter that you need in Australia to attach a CO2 regulator.

Here is Victor's home site. It lists many regulator models.
https://www.mythermadyne.com/thc/en...adirect&messageType=OnlineOrderingPageDisplay


----------



## Jamess

Thanks for the info Left C. I can't seem to find the ebay listing you mentioned - when I do an item # search it says it no longer exists.

Anyway, I think these regs from jaysreef look like they'll work well. I am almost 100% certain that getting it to fit aussie bottles won't be much of an issue - have a friend who is a fitter and turner.

And to think I was about to spend ~$350AUD on an Aqua medic reg and solenoid...

James.


----------



## Left C

Jamess said:


> Thanks for the info Left C. I can't seem to find the ebay listing you mentioned - when I do an item # search it says it no longer exists.
> 
> Anyway, I think these regs from jaysreef look like they'll work well. I am almost 100% certain that getting it to fit aussie bottles won't be much of an issue - have a friend who is a fitter and turner.
> 
> And to think I was about to spend ~$350AUD on an Aqua medic reg and solenoid...
> 
> James.


Just paste 350186260268 in the eBay search section and then click on search. It pops up for me. You can also do a search by pasting VTS 253A-320. Since you are in Australia, would this cause a problem?

The auction for it is good for 3 more days. It is over on Apr-09-09 19:15:00 PDT.

Did you look at the post body kits by SuMo and Oregon Aqua Design? If you can get the OAD kit, upgrade to the much better Fabco needle valve. The SuMo kit comes with an excellent Ideal metering valve. Rex Grigg has CO2 equipment plus some other supplies.


----------



## Jamess

It didn't come up because I left the # in front of the number! 

Is the 253A-320 definitely a better option over the Victor HPT270B-250? I must admit I like the chrome plating on the HPT 270B-250. The seller also said they can supply the correct CGA.

The 270B-250 is also cheaper, since the 253A-320 has a start bid of 80 US, whereas the 270B-250 might end up 90 or 100 US posted to Aus.

Regarding the post body kits; I have a medical grade industrial solenoid that I hope to use, and was going to get the Ideal needle valve.

James.


----------



## Left C

Jamess said:


> It didn't come up because I left the # in front of the number!
> 
> Is the 253A-320 definitely a better option over the Victor HPT270B-250? I must admit I like the chrome plating on the HPT 270B-250. The seller also said they can supply the correct CGA.
> 
> The 270B-250 is also cheaper, since the 253A-320 has a start bid of 80 US, whereas the 270B-250 might end up 90 or 100 US posted to Aus.
> 
> Regarding the post body kits; I have a medical grade industrial solenoid that I hope to use, and was going to get the Ideal needle valve.
> 
> James.


I like the chrome plating too. I've used the VTS 253A-1993 chrome plated medical grade regulators and I know that they are great. These high purity regulators use even better parts in several areas.

I have a VTS 253D-320 rigged up with a Burkert solenoid, Ideal metering valve and JBJ bubble counter. It does a great job. Here is a pic of it.










I suppose you know that the Ideal metering valve is available in brass and stainless steel, but I don't know the pricing of the SS valve.


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> I'm glad that it is OK with you. I'm sorry about that.
> 
> The number 28 reminds me of Robert Yates Racing and Davey Allison.


Wow! I barely remember seeing Davey Allison race. Even though he was in the #28 car almost 7 years. I vividly remember the 1993 season at RYR though. It was sad.

A little off topic there Left C.-Sorry.

Any other Matheson Dual Stage Regulator owners feel free to grab the tag from my sig. and add it to yours.
Regulators, MOUNT UP!


----------



## Left C

fordtrannyman said:


> Wow! I barely remember seeing Davey Allison race. Even though he was in the #28 car almost 7 years. I vividly remember the 1993 season at RYR though. It was sad. ...


I was at the Winston the year that Kyle Petty and Davey Allison crashed at the finish line. It was awesome.

Davey was a talented young driver.


----------



## Left C

Hi fordtannyman

Will you post a picture of your MATHESON Model #2102?

Thanks,
Left C


----------



## Left C

Hi guys

The NIB New Victor VTS 253A-320 Regulator w/gauges Item number: 350186260268 is still available if someone is interested.

I really like the VTS253A-320 models which have been discontinued by Victor. This "A" model is excellent for our use. This one is made from forged brass. It is not chrome plated.

Left C

*Correction: The VTS253A regulators are still being made. I contacted Thermadyne and found this out.*


----------



## lizziotti

Oh cool so you did change the name can I have a number? I have a Concoa!


----------



## MarkMc

Ok, I wanna join. I have a Veriflo dually and a Matheson as a back up. And a Air Products that I won in addition to the Matheson. How often do you win BOTH items you're bidding on ebay?! Or is it: if you only bid on one thing you never win but if you bid on 2 of the same or similar things you win BOTH?!


----------



## herns

lizziotti said:


> I have a Concoa!



I just got mine on Ebay last week for just $9.99 plus $14.24 shipping.Brand New!!!:biggrin:




























Victor Pimp # 23
VTS-253-320:thumbsup:


----------



## tazdevil

So what would my number be then?


----------



## Left C

lizziotti said:


> Oh cool so you did change the name can I have a number? I have a Concoa!


Welcome! You are #30.


----------



## Left C

*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt
#30 - lizziotti 
#31 - MarkMc 
#32 - tazdevil
#33 - Darkblade48
#34 - sunfire99
#35 - mrkookm
#36 - PRESTON4479


----------



## Left C

MarkMc said:


> Ok, I wanna join. I have a Veriflo dually and a Matheson as a back up. And a Air Products that I won in addition to the Matheson. How often do you win BOTH items you're bidding on ebay?! Or is it: if you only bid on one thing you never win but if you bid on 2 of the same or similar things you win BOTH?!


Hi Mark.

You are #31.


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> I just got mine on Ebay last week for just $9.99 plus $14.24 shipping.Brand New!!!:biggrin:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Victor Pimp # 23
> VTS-253-320:thumbsup:




WOW!!

This is by far the best dell of a heal that anyone has received since this thread started!


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> WOW!!
> 
> This is by far the best dell of a heal that anyone has received since this thread started!


When there was about an hour left in the auction I thought everyone was "sniping" on this reg. An hour went to minutes and then seconds and "boom!" My sniper got it.

Victor Pimp # 23
VTS-253-320A


----------



## Complexity

Left C said:


> I don't know why I made a boo-boo. It was probably a senior moment of something like that. I'm really sorry, Complexity.
> 
> Have you had a chance to build your regulator?


No problem on the number mixup. :smile:

I _still_ have not built my regulator. I have all the parts now, the regulator and the post body kit, but I haven't had time to even open the box on the post body kit yet.

I finally got a new electrode for my pH controller on my 29g, and that was definitely causing problems in that tank. With the new electrode, my plants are showing some red and I'm seeing pearling for the first time!

Now to attack the BBA and, worst of all, the clado. May have to break the entire tank down, it's so bad.

I intend on getting the regulator built and on my 75g, then make sure everything is in good shape CO2 wise on my 29g, and then battle the algae. Other than that, I have to switch out the 5g tank as the one I'm using now is beginning to have stress cracks (cheap acrylic). So after switching that tank out, I'm hoping the regulator is the next project on my list!


----------



## bsmith

Just get your co2 up and running properly at a good level (greenish yellow drop checker) and you can kiss that BBA goodbye.


----------



## Complexity

The BBA isn't my concern. It's the Clado.

But, yes, getting the CO2 up and stable is why I haven't done much to the tank. I had to first fix the root cause (low CO2) and _then_ work on clearing out the BBA.

I just don't know how I'm going to get rid of the Clado. From all I've read, it's a beast to kill from a tank. I'd rather tear down the 29 to kill it than to risk having it transferred to my 75g. If it gets into that tank, I'm in big trouble.


----------



## herns

bsmith782 said:


> Just get your co2 up and running properly at a good level (greenish yellow drop checker) and you can kiss that BBA goodbye.


bsmith782,

Please check your inbox. I PM'ed you.

Thanks

Victor Pimp # 23
VTS-253-320A


----------



## herns

TheRac25 said:


> Has anyone found a place to puchase a new CGA-320 inlet besides the one on ebay, i dont support USPS monopoly on firstclass mail and subsidizing of junk mail.


I have extras CGA-320 nut and nipple to spare. PM me.

Victor Pimp # 23
VTS-253-320A


----------



## bsmith

I have no message from you bro.


----------



## herns

bsmith782 said:


> I have no message from you bro.


Just PM'ed you 3 minutes ago. Please check again.


----------



## Darkblade48

Mind if I join this pimp club? 



First time playing with the regulator, and it's *heavy!*. But I had some questions. I have the necessary CGA320 to fit into the in side of the regulator, but on the out side, it looks like I have a male adapter. Can this be unscrewed to expose the (what appears to be) 1/4" FNPT?

Also, what is that weird thing sticking out at the 4 o'clock position (looks like a T)?


----------



## mrkookm

I took apart my reg out of curiosity and thought some of you might want to see whats on the inside...enjoy:


----------



## Left C

Hi Captain Hooked

Someone stole your pictures of your VTS450D! Can you edit your post and add them back. There are terrifically funny. :hihi:



Captain Hooked said:


> Here's my 450D reg (which is getting a new cga' inlet) next to an Aqua Medic. I think the 'Medic has gauge envy....:redface:


----------



## Left C

tazdevil said:


> So what would my number be then?


Hi tazdevil

You are #32.

I posted it a few days ago, but my response is missing. I probably had several PlantedTank.net windows open and I zapped it out myself. I'm sorry about that.

Left C


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> Mind if I join this pimp club?
> 
> 
> 
> First time playing with the regulator, and it's *heavy!*. But I had some questions. I have the necessary CGA320 to fit into the in side of the regulator, but on the out side, it looks like I have a male adapter. Can this be unscrewed to expose the (what appears to be) 1/4" FNPT?
> 
> Also, what is that weird thing sticking out at the 4 o'clock position (looks like a T)?


Sure you can join. You are #33. Those regulators look and feel like monsters compared to the "toy" regulators being sold. 

I like the precision feel when turning the knob that controls the low pressure setting.

It would be better to ask Michigan Reefers your questions. I have one on order and it should be here in a few days. 

If you will, please let me know what you find out and we can post it in the Victor thread.

Left C


----------



## herns

*Visitor Message*



bsmith782 said:


> I have no message from you bro.


I left a reply today, 4-11-09 in your "Visitor Message" box.


----------



## sunfire99

My Victor and post body kit with Fabco valve are in the mail. Does that get me a membership? Thanks for the links to Michigan Reefers, it all went very well. 

Steve


----------



## joshh

Darkblade48 said:


> Mind if I join this pimp club?
> 
> 
> 
> First time playing with the regulator, and it's *heavy!*. But I had some questions. I have the necessary CGA320 to fit into the in side of the regulator, but on the out side, it looks like I have a male adapter. Can this be unscrewed to expose the (what appears to be) 1/4" FNPT?
> 
> Also, what is that weird thing sticking out at the 4 o'clock position (looks like a T)?


If you're talking about this part:









This is what jaysreef told me.
"That is a safety valve and automatically releases if the pressure gets too high. I think they are preset, so you should not have to adjust. If you hear and CO2 escaping once the unit is hooked up, just tighten the nut."

I have yet to start mine up.. the last piece I needed got lost somewhere between my ups deliverer and apartment office. So I'll have to go on a search monday


----------



## Darkblade48

joshh said:


> This is what jaysreef told me.
> "That is a safety valve and automatically releases if the pressure gets too high. I think they are preset, so you should not have to adjust. If you hear and CO2 escaping once the unit is hooked up, just tighten the nut."


Great to know; I was looking at the manual (PDF format, I can upload if anyone's interested) and it seems to confirm that it's a pressure release valve. Strange looking one.


----------



## Left C

sunfire99 said:


> My Victor and post body kit with Fabco valve are in the mail. Does that get me a membership? Thanks for the links to Michigan Reefers, it all went very well.
> 
> Steve


Hi Steve

Welcome to the club! You are member #34.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-47.html#post825249

I'm glad that you joined!

Left C


----------



## Left C

mrkookm said:


> I took apart my reg out of curiosity and thought some of you might want to see whats on the inside...enjoy: ...


Thank you for the pictures. What model do you have, mrkookm? Is that one of the high purity models?

I just received my SGT500-60-350. It's body is made from forged 316L stainless steel and then it is chrome plated. It's diaphragms are made from 316L stainless steel too. It has a "sleek" look about it. It is shaped somewhat like a Concoa regulator.

mrkookm, would you like to join this club? I certainly hope that you do join.


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> Mind if I join this pimp club?
> 
> 
> 
> First time playing with the regulator, and it's *heavy!*. But I had some questions. I have the necessary CGA320 to fit into the in side of the regulator, but on the out side, it looks like I have a male adapter. Can this be unscrewed to expose the (what appears to be) 1/4" FNPT?
> 
> Also, what is that weird thing sticking out at the 4 o'clock position (looks like a T)?


Hi Anthony

Did you find out the answers to your questions about your regulator?

My regulator came in. The part that is attached at the 9 o'clock is a Swagelok 1/4" MNPT to 1/8" MNPT reducer. You do not need to remove it. This is what connects to your solenoid. The man building these regulators adds this part so that it be easy to install.

The part at the 4 o'clock position is the pressure release valve. Just remove its blue cap when you are ready to use the regulator. The following pic is from MR's site. I didn't get the HP270 model. I got the SGT500 regulator.


----------



## Darkblade48

Left C said:


> Hi Anthony
> 
> Did you find out the answers to your questions about your regulator?
> 
> My regulator came in. The part that is attached at the 9 o'clock is a Swagelok 1/4" MNPT to 1/8" MNPT reducer. You do not need to remove it. This is what connects to your solenoid. The man building these regulators adds this part so that it be easy to install.
> 
> The part at the 4 o'clock position is the pressure release valve. Just remove its blue cap when you are ready to use the regulator. The following pic is from MR's site. I didn't get the HP270 model. I got the SGT500 regulator.


Hi Left C,

Yes, I did find my answers. Actually, to be honest, the blue caps on the 1/4" MNPT to 1/8" MNPT fooled me at first, I feel stupid now :icon_roll

As for the pressure release valve, thanks for confirming what joshh said. It's a strange looking pressure release valve (all the other ones I've seen so far don't have a T shape to them.


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> ...
> As for the pressure release valve, thanks for confirming what joshh said. It's a strange looking pressure release valve (all the other ones I've seen so far don't have a T shape to them.


That relief valve looks different than the ones on my SGT500 and my VTS253's, but it is very similar to the one on my HPT272-40-350-4M.


----------



## Darkblade48

Left C said:


> That relief valve looks different than the ones on my SGT500 and my VTS253's, but it is very similar to the one on my HPT272-40-350-4M.


Yes, I was comparing my regulator to the VTS series; well, at least the mystery has been solved.

I just realized that my regulator is a Victor HPT272-125-350-4M. I'm looking at the manual and the "decoding" method is:

Base Regulator: HPT
Series: 270, 272, 280, 281
Delivery Pressure: 15 (2-15 PSI), 40 (2-40 PSI), 80 (4-80 PSI), 125 (5-125 PSI)
Inlet Fitting: 320 (CGA320), 326 (CGA326), 350 (CGA350), 4F (1/4" FNPT), 4M (1/4" MNPT), 2S (1/8" Swagelok), 4S (1/4" Swagelok), etc
Outlet Fitting: 4M, 4F, 2S, 4S (as above)

i.e. 

HPT272-125-350-4M
HPT regulator, 272 series. Delivery pressure of 125 PSI. Inlet fitting is CGA350 and outlet fitting is a 1/4" MNPT.

Regarding the delivery pressure; the number (125 PSI) is (what I assume to be) the maximal delivery pressure on the low side. I know there's no way to change this, but my outlet gauge goes from 5 - 200 PSI, so it's a bit hard to discern between (say) 10, 15 or 20 PSI. Is it possible to replace the low side gauge with one that simply has a lower maximum PSI reading?


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> ... Regarding the delivery pressure; the number (125 PSI) is (what I assume to be) the maximal delivery pressure on the low side. I know there's no way to change this, but my outlet gauge goes from 5 - 200 PSI, so it's a bit hard to discern between (say) 10, 15 or 20 PSI. Is it possible to replace the low side gauge with one that simply has a lower maximum PSI reading?


I believe that you can change low pressure to a range that you can use. You should double check just to make sure.


----------



## deicide

you can use a lower gauge, but I would also adjust 1st stage to restrict the inlet pressure to lower or the max pressure the gauge can handle. For example on my Concoa I set my 1st stage (adjusment screw in the back which is covered by the nut) to 40psi and my 2nd stage (knob in the front) is adjusted to 10psi.


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> ... Regarding the delivery pressure; the number (125 PSI) is (what I assume to be) the maximal delivery pressure on the low side. I know there's no way to change this, but my outlet gauge goes from 5 - 200 PSI, so it's a bit hard to discern between (say) 10, 15 or 20 PSI. Is it possible to replace the low side gauge with one that simply has a lower maximum PSI reading?





Left C said:


> I believe that you can change low pressure to a range that you can use. You should double check just to make sure.


My VTS253D-320 has a low pressure gauge that ranges from 0 to 200 psi. It is easy to dial it in, but I only have a small range on the gauge to work with. The specs say that its delivery range is from 5 to 125 PSIG. If I were you, I would just leave it alone and use it.


----------



## Darkblade48

Left C said:


> My VTS253D-320 has a low pressure gauge that ranges from 0 to 200 psi. It is easy to dial it in, but I only have a small range on the gauge to work with. The specs say that its delivery range is from 5 to 125 PSIG. If I were you, I would just leave it alone and use it.


Hm, similarly, the HPT272 I have has the 0-200 PSI low pressure gauge. I'm not sure how hard it is to dial yet (still haven't connected all the pieces together yet), but it's good to know that it'll work. 

I was a bit worried that the regulator might be a bit hard to control, but I guess that's not the case


----------



## tazdevil

Here's mine, not sure on model #, just recieved in Jan from GLA (note, was already hooked up in picture, I was still running the lines when I shot this)


----------



## mrkookm

All dual stage gauges can/are made be adjusted 

I gave a nice layout of what the internals look like of a Concoa dual stage, if you take a look at the last pic you can clearly see 2 springs (single stage regulators like a Cornelius has only 1 spring) which is what depresses the diaphragm plate on the diaphragm which in turn depresses the internal needle valve which regulates the pressure from 1 chamber to the next. Since for our application we need only a few BPS we do not need to have a 1st stage pressure of 125~200+ psi. 



















What difference will this make? Well having a dual stage regulator we are no longer restricted to filling up when our tank is only at 100~300psi which is what most of us do. Even though I ran my Co2 with my 1 stager reg down to 100psi, this caused wild fluctuations with be adjuting constantly, even though this much pressure can easily can give us a month or 2 of Co2 depending on the BR. 

Adjusting the 1st stage delivery pressure to a lower psi like say 40 or 60 will provide a consistent flow to the 2nd stage even when your cylinder is reading 100psi or lower on the high side gauge. As long as tank pressure is higher than the 1st stage set delivery pressure, the set 2nd stage working pressure will be consistent.

In the end it's your choice, but why restrict yourselves when you can properly adjust these dual stage regs.



I am lsiting the steps for adjusting a *CONCOA based DUAL STAGE REGULATOR*. A dual stage regulator has an adjustment nut in the back and front see the pics below. If you feel uncomfortable with doing this then don't do it! If you feel up to this oterwise easy adjustment then *YOU ARE DOING SO AT YOUR OWN RISK!* 










Here goes:

*1)* *Turn off tank pressure to regulator*. Proceed by releasing the pressure from the regulator, you can let it bubble as it normally would until all gauges read 0psi or just open your needle valve slowly to quicken the process.

*2)* Once to 0psi, turn off Solenoid and shut off needle valve for added safety.

*3)* remove both nuts from the adjusment screw on the back of the regulator. Facing the back of the reg turn the 1st stage adjustment sccrew *CCW* all the way or until the screw falls out...yes it can fall out, dont panic!  just screw it back in a few turns or leave it out for now.

*4)* Screw 2nd stage knob (front knob) all the way in CW till it stops. Don't worry, step 3 turns off inlet tank pressure, so when we open tank again the low side gauge will remain at 0psi. But just in case some one misses a step, I suggest opening the tank pressure _*slowly*_ and be ready to turn it of just in case.

*5)* Begin 1st stage adjustments by slowly turning the 1st stage screw (turn CW) until the needle increases to whatever you want your *delivery pressure* to be (eg. I set my 1st stage to 40psi). Screw on the stop nut 'important one' (this prevents the adjustment screw from moving from your preset position) then screw on the other nut if you want to.

*5a*) If you mess up on your 1st stage delivery pressure, you will have to release the regulator pressure, *so repeat step 1 ~4*

*6)* Now turn 2nd stage CCW all the way til it stops, as you do this the needle will slowly go to 0psi

*7)*Turn 2nd stage knob again this time slowly CW to the *working pressure you want* (eg. mine is set to 10psi)

*8)* Make final adjutments to 2nd stage with needle valve set at whatever your bubble rate should be.

Thats it, now you can run your tank (high side) all the way down to 42psi or until your BR starts going beserk since we can really tell 42psi


----------



## mrkookm

..................


----------



## Darkblade48

Just some term confusion:

Working pressure: I understand this to be the pressure that the low pressure gauge would read. Most people seem to set it anywhere from 10-25 PSI.

Delivery pressure: Is this the pressure that is obtained after the regulator reduces the 800 (or so) PSI from the CO2 tank? Is there anyway to "check" what the "default manufacturer" delivery pressure is?


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> Hm, similarly, the HPT272 I have has the 0-200 PSI low pressure gauge. I'm not sure how hard it is to dial yet (still haven't connected all the pieces together yet), but it's good to know that it'll work.
> 
> I was a bit worried that the regulator might be a bit hard to control, but I guess that's not the case


They pretty much stay where you set them. I haven't noticed mine drift any.


----------



## mrkookm

You got the terms correct 

It's gonna vary from Manufacturer to manufacturer...on my regs they were set to 300psi.


----------



## mrkookm

you can check but your needle valve (Ideal or Swagelok) will have to able to handle high pressures. I verified mine by closing off my Ideal needle valve, turn the 2nd stage full on and it registered 300psi. Do not try this with the lower end needle vales (Fabco, Clippard or any other not rated above 400psi)

Forgot to mention: 2nd stage pressures will not go above the 1st stage set delivery pressure.


----------



## Left C

tazdevil said:


> Here's mine, not sure on model #, just recieved in Jan from GLA (note, was already hooked up in picture, I was still running the lines when I shot this)












Your picture is a bit dark, but is your regulator like the one above?

If so, most of us know it as VTS253A-1993. It is a medical grade CO2 regulator.


----------



## Left C

mrkookm said:


> ..................


I'm sure that many people will thank you for the information on how to set up a Concoa dual stage regulator. That is very handy to know.

Does ".................." mean that you are thinking about joining the club?


----------



## mrkookm

Left C said:


> Does ".................." mean that you are thinking about joining the club?


That was me 'deleting' a double post the post and I added the dots so as to not get the error regarding not enough words


----------



## Left C

Do you remember how Jack Benny used to say the word, "Well"?


----------



## mrkookm

Sure....hook me up!


----------



## PRESTON4479

mrkookm said:


> Sure....hook me up!


Me too?



Mine is working great since adjusting it Mrkookm!:thumbsup: I got my gauges, needle valve, and cga320 fitting on order for my other one.

Thanks again!


----------



## tazdevil

Left C said:


> Your picture is a bit dark, but is your regulator like the one above?
> 
> If so, most of us know it as VTS253A-1993. It is a medical grade CO2 regulator.


 
That's the one, thanks LeftC.


----------



## Left C

mrkookm said:


> Sure....hook me up!


You are #35.


----------



## Left C

PRESTON4479 said:


> Me too?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine is working great since adjusting it Mrkookm!:thumbsup: I got my gauges, needle valve, and cga320 fitting on order for my other one.
> 
> Thanks again!


Hi

You are #36.


----------



## Left C

*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt
#30 - lizziotti 
#31 - MarkMc 
#32 - tazdevil
#33 - Darkblade48
#34 - sunfire99
#35 - mrkookm
#36 - PRESTON4479
#37 - lovingHDTV
#38 - Homer_ Simpson
#39 - bgzbgz
#40 - wondabread
#41 - SPECIAL||PLANS
#42 - Jeff5614


----------



## Left C

tazdevil said:


> That's the one, thanks Left C.


I have several of those regulators, but I have them rigged a little differently. They work really great. Good luck with yours, tazdevil!


----------



## Left C

Gosh! We have over 20,000 views!!


----------



## james0816

Will this work with the Victor reg?

http://www.aquacave.com/2-outlet-co2-manifoldbr-gang-valve-by-jbj-1939.html

This might be a more economical way to go from the individual pieces and parts I was looking at.

Get two bubble counters to go on top.


----------



## Left C

james0816 said:


> Will this work with the Victor reg?
> 
> http://www.aquacave.com/2-outlet-co2-manifoldbr-gang-valve-by-jbj-1939.html
> 
> This might be a more economical way to go from the individual pieces and parts I was looking at.
> 
> Get two bubble counters to go on top.


I've never used it, but I've read that the needle valves aren't very good. They work good enough for some people though.


----------



## Left C

Would anyone be interested in a chrome plated forged brass Ideal 52-1-12 metering valve for ~ $80 plus shipping? This is one of the brass models commonly used for aquariums that can be chrome plated. http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/vie...-series-forged-brass-needle-valves?&forward=1

Maybe we could do a group buy and get a lower price??? I don't know very much about the whole picture, but according to Ideal, they can chrome plate them at their factory site.

Ideal has a stainless steel 54-1-12 that is really overkill for our hobby. It is $109 plus shipping. http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/ite...-valves/item-1172?&seo=110&bc=100|1007|0|1005

The regular forged brass 52-1-12 is $64 plus shipping. http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/vie...-series-forged-brass-needle-valves?&forward=1


You can get these valves in a 90 degree angle like the ones above. You can also get them in a straight design in brass and stainless steel with the same internal specifications. Also, you can add a panel mount with and without a Vernier Micrometer in the 90 degree angle or straight designs in brass or straight designs. Check out the model 52 and 54 valves. They can be chrome plated too.
model 52: http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/vie...-series-forged-brass-needle-valves?&forward=1
model 54: http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/vie...ies-forged-stainless-needle-valves?&forward=1

If you are interested, just let me know and we will try a group order.

You can also contact Bill Sand at [email protected] or (701) 352-1164. Their address is:
Ideal Valve Incorporated
1475 Lavergne Ave. 
Grafton, ND 58237


----------



## bsmith

Im ready for something new. I really am unhappy with my SS-SS2-D lately. One of the adjustment knobs has fallen off (I need to find a tiny allen to tighen it back down) and the control is imposible to fine tune. And I thought this was super overkill. I guess its what you get when you pay ~$40 for a $250 needle valve! Heck, one of the control valves does nothing, I dont get it.


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Im ready for something new. I really am unhappy with my SS-SS2-D lately. One of the adjustment knobs has fallen off (I need to find a tiny Allen to tighten it back down) and the control is impossible to fine tune. And I thought this was super overkill. I guess its what you get when you pay ~$40 for a $250 needle valve! Heck, one of the control valves does nothing, I don't get it.


I'm glad that I didn't get any of the "cross" Swagelok valves when there were so many available not long ago. I'd lose the part(s) too.

If you want to order a valve right away, go ahead and tell Bill Sand what you want to order and you that spoke to me. They normally charge $20 for the chrome plating, but he let me have it for $18. A group buy may be a little cheaper, but we haven't discussed this. The contact info is above.

You can decide if you want one in 90 degree or straight cut and in brass, chrome plated brass or stainless steel.


----------



## bsmith

Im in no hurry. But it would be nice to get one in Chrome, cause I like my Valves like my wheels... shiney!


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> ... my SS-SS2-D lately. One of the adjustment knobs has fallen off (I need to find a tiny Allen to tighten it back down) and the control is impossible to fine tune....


You can try contacting a Swagelok dealer and he/she may send you the parts for free. My local dealer has offered to do this.


----------



## Left C

Here you go:



james0816 said:


> Will this work with the Victor reg?
> 
> http://www.aquacave.com/2-outlet-co2-manifoldbr-gang-valve-by-jbj-1939.html
> 
> This might be a more economical way to go from the individual pieces and parts I was looking at.
> 
> Get two bubble counters to go on top.





Left C said:


> I've never used it, but I've read that the needle valves aren't very good. They work good enough for some people though.


----------



## Left C

You will think that I am nut, but I've found something cheaper, it doesn't leak CO2 (so far) and it works well. It is cheap too. Make sure that your tubing is the same length and the check valve is the same distance. You are trying to make each CO2 line an identical twin of the other.



Left C said:


> I've been using Hagen's Elite 2 way air valve to set the CO2 bubble rate in two 10g aquariums and it doesn't leak CO2 at a low psi. I've tested it with a spray-on soap solution and Windex as well.. The specs say that it will not leak up to 5 psi.
> 
> I have the CO2 regulator set on 5 psi and I turn the metering valve low. Then I adjust the CO2 bubble rate with the adjustment knobs on the Elite. I use the Hagen ladders as diffusers and as bubble counters. The bubble rate stays very consistent.
> 
> It has been working great so far. It is only a few dollars for the Elite air valve. Hagen makes 2 way up to 5 way air valves.
> 
> 2 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011780020101
> 3 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011790020101
> 4 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011800020101
> 5 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011810020101
> 
> It really works great for the $.
> 
> Above the Hagen ladders are tiny Rio 50 powerheads with the flow adjuster and duckbill flare. They capture the tiny bubbles that escape from the top of the ladders and chop them up and spit out a fine mist. It works well. I have drop checkers in both aquariums too.


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Im in no hurry. But it would be nice to get one in Chrome, cause I like my Valves like my wheels... shiny!


I like chrome too! 

Contact Bill Sand at Ideal because I believe that he told me that they have a chrome run coming up really soon. You can go ahead and contact him for information and get a valve finished before some of us get one. Both of us (Bill and I) were in our cars using our cell phones and that may of led to some communication problems. We both were in loud traffic at the time.

PS: Please let me know the results.


----------



## Left C

*CHROME PLATED IDEAL 52-1-12 Metering Valves
*
Would anyone be interested in chrome plated Ideal metering valves?

Many of us have chrome plated regulators now and would like to have a chrome plated valve instead of a brass. There are some people that have their regulator equipment hidden and they are not interested in a chrome valve.

If we can get about 10 to 20+ valves on order, we will have enough to do a production run and the cost of chrome plating a valve will be around +/- $5 extra.

This is how it works at Ideal. They charge $75 for a “special” production run. If you ordered one valve, the cost would be the cost of the valve plus $75. If you ordered 2 chrome valves, the price for each valve would be the cost of the valve plus $37.50 for each valve. If we get 10 valves on order, the cost of chrome plating will be $7.50 more. Then if we get 20 valves on order the cost would be $3.75 per valve.

There is a chance that if we place our order when they are running a chrome plating production run, we might get them a bit cheaper.

There are some other things to be work out such as shipping and the price of the Ideal valve that I will introduce as soon as I find out.

This is the forged brass valve that will be chrome plated: http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/ite...le-valves/item-1128?&seo=110&bc=100|1005|1007


It will somewhat look like this stainless steel version except it will be chrome plated.


----------



## herns

zzyzx85 said:


> www.bestaquariumregulator.com -> Rex Grigg's site. Has both needle valves and solenoids, along with pretty much everything else you need, except CO2 tanks.
> 
> You also need a CO2 cylinder, the fittings (Mr. Grigg probably has them), bubble counter, co2 tubing, check valve, and a diffuser or reactor.


Is there a way to get these parts, barb fittings, solenoids, metering valve, check valves, etc without buying from Sumoregulators, OAD, RexG, etc?

Could there be a list for a basic set up kits here?


---------------------
*VICTOR PIMP #24 **VTS-253-320A*


----------



## bsmith

So would these chrome plated IDEAL 52-1-12 Metering Valves be in the neighborhood of $80?


----------



## Left C

That is what I am thinking. Somewhere between $70 and $80.

Ideal is going to be doing a chrome run in 2 to 3 weeks. That would be a good time to order..

We don't have to do it then, we can wait until the next chrome run after that.

Mr. Sand at Ideal mentioned that customized valves are his specialty. This is what he told me: "Please let me know what your dream valve would look like and I can try to help you."


----------



## bsmith

Cool. I would say count me in for sure but thats alot of dough for a needle valve.


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> So would these chrome plated IDEAL 52-1-12 Metering Valves be in the neighborhood of $80?


Well, that is three of us now.


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Is there a way to get these parts, barb fittings, solenoids, metering valve, check valves, etc without buying from Sumoregulators, OAD, RexG, etc?
> 
> Could there be a list for a basic set up kits here?
> 
> 
> ---------------------
> *VICTOR PIMP #24 **VTS-253-320A*


There is a list of the Clippard parts that can be used in this thread: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-16.html#post736628

Usually you run into the parts costing more than purchasing a post regulator kit if you try to round them up yourself. You have to consider shipping and handling charges too.

Sometimes you might find metering or needle valves on eBay and save some money that way.

You can get the brass parts from many places, but you just can't get solenoids, needle valves and metering valves from many places. If you order one needle valve or one solenoid from a manufacturer, you may even have to pay more than you would pay from getting a post regulator kit.

You will also find that there is more than one way to mount a solenoid or a needle/metering valve to the regulator plus there are several ways to mount the other parts.

There are many pictures of people's regulators in this thread and other threads that someone could look at write down the parts used to build that regulator combination.

Rex has taken the time to write up how he rigs them that has been very helpful. http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## jgreg

*Just Ordered Mine*

Thanks to this thread I ordered an SGT 500 last night. It included the chrome CGA 320 nipple, swagelok 1/4 to 1/8 reducer and a plastic seal. This is my first CO2 setup. At this point here is what I think I need:
Solenoid
Needle Valve
Bubble Counter
Tubing
Check Valve
Pipe Dope
Manifold

Am I missing anything obvious?

I am going to build two rex style reactors, one for each power filter (it is a 120 4x2x2). I have two inline Hydor heaters. So where do you put the reactors, before or after the heaters? Or does it matter? Does anyone have photos of there under tank setup? I would like to get this as clean as possible and do it right the first time. EDIT: Do you think one reactor would be fine on this size tank? I ask because one of my filters is an Eheim 2229 wet/dry and the pressure going into the tank varies from slow while filling the filter to high when emptying.

Also, what is the best way to get in touch with Rex? I would like to order an after regulator kit if possible.

Thanks In Advance for any help.


----------



## Left C

jgreg said:


> Thanks to this thread I ordered an SGT 500 last night. It included the chrome CGA 320 nipple, swagelok 1/4 to 1/8 reducer and a plastic seal. This is my first CO2 setup. At this point here is what I think I need:
> Solenoid
> Needle Valve
> Bubble Counter
> Tubing
> Check Valve
> Pipe Dope
> Manifold
> 
> Am I missing anything obvious?


That SGT 500 is a nice one. Every part of it is designed well.

You didn't mention the brass parts that you need for assembly, but I'm sure that you know this.

Have you seen fordtrannyman's manifold setup? His is a triple, but you can easily see how to rig it to run two lines and get the parts that you need. Getting some extra brass check valves might come in handy.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-33.html#post792361



jgreg said:


> I am going to build two rex style reactors, one for each power filter (it is a 120 4x2x2). I have two inline Hydor heaters. So where do you put the reactors, before or after the heaters? Or does it matter? Does anyone have photos of there under tank setup? I would like to get this as clean as possible and do it right the first time. EDIT: Do you think one reactor would be fine on this size tank? I ask because one of my filters is an Eheim 2229 wet/dry and the pressure going into the tank varies from slow while filling the filter to high when emptying.


Here is something different. Have you seen Orlando's thread about a needle wheel pump? It might help on the filter that is not wet/dry. I can't help you with the wet/dry: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...eel-co2-diffusion-fractionating-impeller.html



jgreg said:


> Also, what is the best way to get in touch with Rex? I would like to order an after regulator kit if possible.
> 
> Thanks In Advance for any help.


http://www.rexgrigg.com/contact.html


----------



## jgreg

Well after much more reading I am going to try to just use one output (simpler and cheaper to start with). If in the future I need to add another I will revisit the issue. 

I didn't list the brass fittings because I am not really sure what I need. I am going to probably go with a clippard solenoid (not sure which model to get), the fabco nv 55 needle valve, and use clear PVC for the reactor so I can use it as a bubble counter also. Does this sound right? Sorry for all of the questions. I have a basic understanding but am obviously missing some finer details. Gonna keep reading but any input is much appreciated.


----------



## Left C

jgreg said:


> Well after much more reading I am going to try to just use one output (simpler and cheaper to start with). If in the future I need to add another I will revisit the issue.


OK. That makes sense.



jgreg said:


> I didn't list the brass fittings because I am not really sure what I need.


There are several ways to rig a regulator. Your post regulator kit should come with what you need. 



jgreg said:


> I am going to probably go with a clippard solenoid (not sure which model to get),


In a helpful hints post in this thread are some threads about Clippard parts and part numbers, their solenoids and how to wire them. The solenoids from Rex, SuMo and GLA come already wired.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-38.html#post802489



jgreg said:


> the fabco nv 55 needle valve,


There are two basic ways to rig the Fabco needle valve. One is inline and the other is mounted to the solenoid like Oregon Aqua Design does. You may want to research this a bit. There are some threads about this in the same helpful hints post and several other places in this forum.



jgreg said:


> and use clear PVC for the reactor so I can use it as a bubble counter also. Does this sound right?


I don't know if you can use your reactor for a bubble counter. Your bubble count setting for a 120g will be rather high.

The reason that I said that I don't know if it will work is because I've never tried it. It could work OK. I just don't know.



jgreg said:


> Sorry for all of the questions. I have a basic understanding but am obviously missing some finer details. Gonna keep reading but any input is much appreciated.


That is fine. That is one of the reasons that this thread is here. I think that you have done a very good job of researching what you need.


----------



## Darkblade48

jgreg said:


> ...and use clear PVC for the reactor so I can use it as a bubble counter also. Does this sound right?


I agree with Left C; I don't think you can use your reactor as a bubble counter. Also, I don't like using clear PVC because it gives another place for algae to grow, etc.


----------



## PRESTON4479

Darkblade48 said:


> I agree with Left C; I don't think you can use your reactor as a bubble counter. Also, I don't like using clear PVC because it gives another place for algae to grow, etc.


I actually eliminated my bubble counter because it is just one more place for a leak to occur and I have a clear pvc reactor. I dont try for an exact bubble count but just use it to get an ideal where its at.

As for algae growing it.......I have never seen this in mine and its been in use well over a year.


----------



## herns

*Victor Co2 Regulators*

Left C,

The 2 Victor Regulators in Ebay were sold out in 1 day!

_*VICTOR pimp # 24 VTS-320A*_


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Left C,
> 
> The 2 Victor Regulators in Ebay were sold out in 1 day!
> 
> _*VICTOR pimp # 24 VTS-320A*_


Thanks for the tip.

I know someone that has been wanting one and I emailed him about it. He bought it. He was the only one that I told.

I don't know who got the other one.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> Thanks for the tip.
> 
> I know someone that has been wanting one and I emailed him about it. He bought it. He was the only one that I told.
> 
> I don't know who got the other one.


the auction confused me. It says "brand new" but the Condition below said "used". I "ask the seller" but long before mrmotorcycle send his answer the regulator was gone.:frown:


_*VICTOR pimp # 24 VTS-320A*_


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> I don't know if that was a typo or not. They are 19993 regulators or 16 years old.


Do you know how old VTS 253A-320 series?


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Do you know how old VTS 253A-320 series?


Victor is still making the A model. It isn't listed in their catalog for some reason. I really don't know when Victor started making the VTS253 series. Maybe you could contact Thermadyne. I'd like to know the answer to your question too.


----------



## Left C

*SuMo Post Body Kit - Parts & Wrenches*

Hi


These are the parts & wrenches that you need to build a regulator using the SuMo Post Body Kit. I wrote them in the order that they are attached. 


*VTS253A-1993 regulator*










*remove the brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter and discard - 9/16" wrench*











The brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter on the regulator that you have to remove is on very tight. A vice is very helpful. You put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator. You don't scratch or damage the regulator this way.

This is how I removed it without a vice. I got my 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench and used an open end wrench locked on to the 1/2" side of the boxed wrench. This in essence makes a longer wrench and provides more leverage. I laid the regulator on a rug. Then I put the 9/16" side of the wrench on the barbed adapter and I stood on the regulator to remove the adapter. I had to turn it a little bit at a time and I had to keep getting another "bite" on the adapter, but I got it off.


Some regulators don't have barbed adapters. They can have different types of adapters. My Victor VTS253D-320 shows one of the other types of adapters that still has to be removed.











*SuMo Post Body Kit*










Let's go from right to left because that is the order that they go on the regulator.


*brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench*










*brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow (Note: The picture shows it already attached to the solenoid.) - 5/8" wrench*










*Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench*










*brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*










*Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench*










*brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*










*
JBJ bubble counter - tighten by hand*
*brass 12 mm nut on top of JBJ bubble counter - 1/2" or 12 mm wrench* 










Yours should look something like this VTS253D-320. Please note that it has a Burkert solenoid instead of a Clippard solenoid and I used slightly different elbow parts to attach the regulator and solenoid.










You can use a regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc. to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder.

*TOOL LIST*
a vice is very handy for assembly
these are not needed if you have a vice - 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench or 9/16" x 5/8" boxed end wrench 
5/8" open end wrench 
7/8" open end wrench (optional)
7/16" open or boxed end wrench
9/16" open end wrench
9/16" boxed end wrench (optional)
1/2" or 12 mm open or boxed end wrench
regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc.

Some people use Teflon tape. I use a non hardening pipe joint compound.
OATEY 31229 GREAT WHITE Pipe Joint Compound w/Teflon, 1oz. 
"Lubricates and seals all threaded joints. White, non-hardening, non-separating, non-toxic paste. Withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases from -50 to +400 degrees F, and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50 to +500 degrees F. For use with water, steam, caustic or dilute acid lines of PVC, CPVC, ABS, cycolac, polypropylene, iron, steel or copper."









NOTE: Make sure that you use Teflon tape or pipe compound on the threads at the top of the bubble counter. It could leak if you don't.


Happy Wrenchin'
Left C


----------



## herns

*Removed pics to avoid confusion*



Left C said:


> Hi
> 
> 
> These are the parts & wrenches that you need to build a regulator using the SuMo Post Body Kit. I wrote them in the order that they are attached.
> 
> 
> *VTS253A-1993 regulator*
> 
> 
> 
> *remove the brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter and discard - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter on the regulator that you have to remove is on very tight. A vice is very helpful. You put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator. You don't scratch or damage the regulator this way.
> 
> This is how I removed it without a vice. I got my 9/16" x 1/2" closed end wrench and used an open wrench locked on to the 1/2" side of the wrench. This in essence makes a longer wrench and provides more leverage. I laid the regulator on a rug. Then I put the 9/16" side of the wrench on the barbed adapter and I stood on the regulator to remove the adapter. I had to turn it a little bit at a time and I had to keep getting another "bite" on the adapter, but I got it off.
> 
> 
> Some regulators don't barbed adapters. They can have different styles of adapters. My Victor VTS253D-320 shows one of the other types of adapters that still has to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *SuMo Post Body Kit*
> 
> 
> 
> Let's go from right to left because that is the order that they go on the regulator.
> 
> 
> *brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow (Note: The picture shows it already attached to the solenoid.) - 5/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JBJ bubble counter - tighten by hand*
> *brass 12 mm nut on top of JBJ bubble counter - 1/2" or 12 mm wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> Yours should look something like this VTS253D-320. Please note that it has a Burkert solenoid instead of a Clippard solenoid and I used slightly different elbow parts to attach the regulator and solenoid.
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc. to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder.
> 
> 
> Left C



I ve been looking around to see this type of regulator set up guide for Victor to follow.
Rex has one but on a different reg.

Great help, Left C. Thanks for posting.:thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

I had it in the works when you asked about it not long ago. I already had the pictures, but I hadn't written it up.


----------



## Left C

Here is some more info concerning regulator connection parts. 


If you don't need an elbow, you can rig it different ways.









- Use the 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT between the regulator and solenoid.









or

- This way requires two parts. Use a 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT bushing attached to the regulator.









and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve

1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple









or

1/8" MPT nipple











Here are two other ways to do an elbow. Each requires two parts.









- 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to the solenoid









and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve

1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple









or

1/8" MPT nipple


----------



## herns

*edit*



Left C said:


> I had it in the works when you asked about it not long ago. I already had the pictures, but I hadn't written it up.


Very good reference. Thanks for all the hard work in putting these up all together.

Can I purchase Clippard Solenoid & Ideal metering individually? Do you have an idea how much each cost?

Im so excited to build these pieces altogether into my new baby.


----------



## Left C

That is one hell of a regulator for $9.99!

Rex Grigg has the Ideal valve and Clippard solenoid listed separately on his site. It's $65 and $30.

Are you going to add brass to that shiny chrome regulator? That's blasphemy!! 

Were you wanting to get a chrome plated Ideal valve?

Another option ... Swagelok metering valves are either chrome plated brass or stainless steel.

Swagelok sells stainless steel fittings. I'll post them in a bit.


----------



## Left C

*SWAGELOK STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS*


*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT Hex Reducing Nipple* ( *SS-4-HRN-2* ) *$6.15*









*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT Reducer Bushing* *SS-4-RB-2* *$5.74*









*Stainless Steel 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple* ( *SS-2-HN* ) *$4.72*









*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/4" MPT Elbow* *SS-4-ME* *$14.05*









*Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" MPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-1-2* *$5.64*









*Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" FPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-7-2* *$12.71*














*IDEAL STAINLESS STEEL* 54-1-12 *METERING VALVE*


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> That is one hell of a regulator for $9.99!



Take a look the size of my VTS253A-320 compared to its big brother. :eek5:

I might build Victor first. Concoa's chrome/ stainless kits are a little expensive. 
That Ideal Stainless metering valve you posted looks very nice.:thumbsup: Do you know how much its cost?

Rex told me he also sells the brass adapters but no bubble counter. If I get the brass adapters, Solenoid and Ideal Metering valve from him, the price is lower than Sumoregulators post body kit.


----------



## Left C

SuMo's kit adds CO2 tubing and a check valve. Does Rex's?


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> SuMo's kit adds CO2 tubing and a check valve. Does Rex's?


Rex included both.


----------



## Left C

I believe that the stainless steel Ideal is a little over $100. It is really overkill for our use, but it has the same specs as the brass one. I'm trying to get some chrome plated Ideals. If I can get enough people, it won't be that expensive. It will be just a few dollars more than the brass ones.


FYI about the SS parts, if you don't want to add a JBJ bubble counter to your regulator, you don't need the stainless steel elbow unless you want the Ideal valve to be horizontal. If you want it to be vertical, you don't need that $14.05 elbow; just the other two parts plus an CO2 tubing connector. I've got to add that tubing adapter to that SS list. I haven't found it on Swagelok's site.


----------



## herns

*Reply from Thermadyne*



Left C said:


> Victor quit making the the 320 version of the VTS253A series a few years ago. I really don't know when Victor started making the VTS253 series. Maybe you could contact Thermadyne. I'd like to know the answer to your question too.


Here's the answer from Thermadyne:

*Prior to 1979. That is the earliest catalog that I have.
If you are looking for other models you can access our catalog at Thermadyne.com, click on Victor Gas Apparatus, click on Literature 
& then download our catalog Industrial Gas Apparatus 65-2007.

Thank You,


Genise Kluck
Thermadyne Technical Support Team Lead
2800 Airport Rd
Denton TX 76207
800-426-1888 phone
800-535-0557 fax*


----------



## Left C

I just called Thermadyne and I got some info:

- The VTS253A-320 is still being made. Whomever typed up the catalog didn't list the A model for some reason. They have 2 in stock for, get this, $753!!! :icon_eek:

_"The part number for the VTS253A320 is 0781-3569. Current list price is $753.00.

Thank you for you inquiry.

Tim Crews
Technical Support Representative"_

- The chrome plated VTS253A-1993 is a valid part number. It is custom manufactured for a specialty gas supplier to their specs. It is still being manufactured too.

Well, that's two myths busted. 

Thanks.


----------



## Left C

Hoppy wrote an excellent reply in the "Pressurized Noob" thread concerning the CO2 cylinder pressure/good regulator/needle valve relationships. He has given me permission to post it.



Hoppy said:


> Part of the "confusion" is the belief that a regulator operating at 5-20psi output pressure has an easy job compared to one operating at 10 times that pressure. That isn't true. A good regulator will hold its outlet pressure constant come hell or high water - full tank, virtually empty tank with only gas in it, high temperature, low temperature, etc. The really cheap ones, of which I would rate Milwaukee as a poor example, won't do that. My Milwaukee's output pressure varied with everything from the astrological sign to the state of the tides. It may not have varied much, but it was enough to change the bubble rate. And, the bubble rate is determined in equal parts by the output pressure and the size of the orifice that regulates the flow. A perfect needle valve is only perfect because that orifice remains exactly as set, and can be adjusted in very small increments. But, if the regulator output pressure varies, the bubble rate will vary in direct proportion to the change in output pressure (for the minute flow rates we use).
> 
> As Left C said, if you can get a used great quality regulator cheap, you can afford a great quality needle valve, and you then have the best of regulator assemblies.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> I believe that the stainless steel Ideal is a little over $100. It is really overkill for our use, but it has the same specs as the brass one. I'm trying to get some chrome plated Ideals. If I can get enough people, it won't be that expensive. It will be just a few dollars more than the brass ones.


Please count me in.


----------



## herns

*Brass adapters & CO2 check valve*



Left C said:


> Let's go from right to left because that is the order that they go on the regulator.
> 
> 
> *brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow (Note: The picture shows it already attached to the solenoid.) - 5/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*



Can these brass adapters purchase from local stores like Home Depot & OSH? 

Would you use this type of CO2 check valve? This is really cheap.
Ebay Item number: 120392376428


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Can these brass adapters purchase from local stores like Home Depot & OSH?


I couldn't find those exact ones there, but I was able to mix and match with these other ones.



herns said:


> Would you use this type of CO2 check valve? This is really cheap. Ebay Item number: 120392376428


I can't tell you if it will work or not because I haven't tried it. More than likely, it should. You know that it is being shipped from Johor, Malaysia.


----------



## herns

*edit*



Left C said:


> You know that it is being shipped from Johor, Malaysia.


Ive worked in Singapore for 6-1/2 years. Whenever we need cheaper things to buy, it would just be a 25 minutes ride from Singapore -Kranji station to JB (Johor Bahru), Malaysia. 

There is one plant seller in Ebay from Malaysia that are selling a very good growth Anubias plants. I bought 3 species from him last week. Its $4.99 a piece with FREE shipping. It took about a week to reach my mail box. The guy told me they grow it out the water so it grows out faster. :icon_roll


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Please count me in.


Cool.

I'm going to call him next Monday and find out more details.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> Thanks for the tip.
> 
> I know someone that has been wanting one and I emailed him about it. He bought it. He was the only one that I told.
> 
> I don't know who got the other one.


mr.m sold 3 Victor regs straight in just around 2 days like hot cakes!:icon_eek:


This is a Concoa 212 series that may be used for CO2 service.
Ebay item 170268269907


----------



## fordtrannyman

herns said:


> Can these brass adapters purchase from local stores like Home Depot & OSH?


Yes! For those in Orange County there is a wholesale hardware supply store that has any almost any type of fitting you'll ever need in Brass or Stainless.
*McFadden-Dale Industrial Hardware*

1851 E Edinger Ave 
Santa Ana, CA 92705 Map

(714) 550-7122
http://hstrial-mcfaddendalei.homestead.com/





herns said:


> Would you use this type of CO2 check valve? This is really cheap.
> Ebay Item number: 120392376428


I have never used that type of Check Valve. It looks very similar to GLA's budget valve. http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/check-valves.html
I would suspect it to be a good valve if he sales it.
An option for locals in OC to get Clippard parts including check valves and barbs is a local distributor.

*CLAYTON CONTROLS*
2925 COLLEGE AVENUE
UNIT A-12
COSTA MESA, CA 92626-9919

Phone: 714-556-9446
Fax: 714-241-9203

*Website:* http://www.claycon.com
http://www.clippard.com/distributors/find_frm.asp?zip=92832&strCatagory=dom#


----------



## plantbrain

Left C said:


> Hoppy wrote an excellent reply in the "Pressurized Noob" thread concerning the CO2 cylinder pressure/good regulator/needle valve relationships. He has given me permission to post it.


Which explains why I rarely ever killed fish or had issues with end of tank dumps, as well as a needle valve. Steve had impressed on me very early on that the nice stuff was worth the effort and extra $. Same for test kits, and other things we rely on heavily.

There's a local place in the south bay that has all sorts of stuff for CO2, valves, etc, they sell all sorts of mishmash...........refurbished, overstocked, any and all sorts of stuff, looking for the link, I went there once.......forget where though.

Regards, 
tom barr


----------



## herns

*Brass Check Valve and Brass Fittings dealer*



fordtrannyman said:


> Yes! For those in Orange County there is a wholesale hardware supply store that has any almost any type of fitting you'll ever need in Brass or Stainless.
> *McFadden-Dale Industrial Hardware*
> 
> 1851 E Edinger Ave
> Santa Ana, CA 92705 Map
> 
> (714) 550-7122
> http://hstrial-mcfaddendalei.homestead.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have never used that type of Check Valve. It looks very similar to GLA's budget valve. http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/check-valves.html
> I would suspect it to be a good valve if he sales it.
> An option for locals in OC to get Clippard parts including check valves and barbs is a local distributor.
> 
> *CLAYTON CONTROLS*
> 2925 COLLEGE AVENUE
> UNIT A-12
> COSTA MESA, CA 92626-9919
> 
> Phone: 714-556-9446
> Fax: 714-241-9203
> 
> *Website:* http://www.claycon.com
> http://www.clippard.com/distributors/find_frm.asp?zip=92832&strCatagory=dom#


Great info! Thanks!

I have taken a closer look on that brass check valve and it really look very similar to GLA's.

I just bought 2 pcs for about nine bucks. Shipping cost included.


----------



## Left C

*Parts Used to Build Regulators Summary*

I've combined three posts into one post so that all the information about the parts used to build CO2 regulators can be found in one post. There may be additions and changes added when available.



*SuMo Post Body Kit - Parts & Wrenches*

These are the parts & wrenches that you need to build a regulator using the SuMo Post Body Kit. I wrote them in the order that they are attached. 


*VTS253A-1993 regulator*










*remove the brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter and discard - 9/16" wrench*











The brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter on the regulator that you have to remove is on very tight. A vice is very helpful. You put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator. You don't scratch or damage the regulator this way.

This is how I removed it without a vice. I got my 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench and used an open end wrench locked on to the 1/2" side of the boxed wrench. This in essence makes a longer wrench and provides more leverage. I laid the regulator on a rug. Then I put the 9/16" side of the wrench on the barbed adapter and I stood on the regulator to remove the adapter. I had to turn it a little bit at a time and I had to keep getting another "bite" on the adapter, but I got it off.


Some regulators don't have barbed adapters. They can have different types of adapters. My Victor VTS253D-320 shows one of the other types of adapters that still has to be removed.











*SuMo Post Body Kit*










Let's go from right to left because that is the order that they go on the regulator.


*brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench*










*brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow (Note: The picture shows it already attached to the solenoid.) - 5/8" wrench*










*Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench*










*brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*










*Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench*










*brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*










*
JBJ bubble counter - tighten by hand*
*brass 12 mm nut on top of JBJ bubble counter - 1/2" or 12 mm wrench* 










Yours should look something like this VTS253D-320. Please note that it has a Burkert solenoid instead of a Clippard solenoid and I used slightly different elbow parts to attach the regulator and solenoid.










You can use a regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc. to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder.

*TOOL LIST*
a vice is very handy for assembly
these are not needed if you have a vice - 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench or 9/16" x 5/8" boxed end wrench 
5/8" open end wrench 
7/8" open end wrench (optional)
7/16" open or boxed end wrench
9/16" open end wrench
9/16" boxed end wrench (optional)
1/2" or 12 mm open or boxed end wrench
regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc.

Some people use Teflon tape. I use a non hardening pipe joint compound.
OATEY 31229 GREAT WHITE Pipe Joint Compound w/Teflon, 1oz. 
"Lubricates and seals all threaded joints. White, non-hardening, non-separating, non-toxic paste. Withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases from -50 to +400 degrees F, and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50 to +500 degrees F. For use with water, steam, caustic or dilute acid lines of PVC, CPVC, ABS, cycolac, polypropylene, iron, steel or copper."









NOTE: Make sure that you use Teflon tape or pipe compound on the threads at the top of the bubble counter. It could leak if you don't.



*XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*


herns suggested that I should post some info about how to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder:
_- make sure you use a washer
- tighten the heck out of it and then tighten it some more
- *do not use Teflon tape on the threads*, the thread design and washer provides the tight seal
- turn the regulator working pressure knob counter clockwise until it is almost ready to fall off, this sets it to near 0 psi and keeps you from blowing the low pressure gauge
- slowly open the CO2 cylinder
- check for leaks
- a full cylinder should read ~ 800 psi
- turn the working pressure knob clockwise to set your working pressure

That's it._


*xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx*


Here is some more info concerning regulator connection parts. 


If you don't need an elbow, you can rig it different ways.









- Use the 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT between the regulator and solenoid.









or

- This way requires two parts. Use a 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT bushing attached to the regulator.









and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve

1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple









or

1/8" MPT nipple











Here are two other ways to do an elbow. Each requires two parts.









- 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to the solenoid









and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve

1/8" MPT hex nipple









or

1/8" MPT nipple









*xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx*


*SWAGELOK STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS*


*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT Hex Reducing Nipple* ( *SS-4-HRN-2* ) *$6.15*









*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT Reducer Bushing* *SS-4-RB-2* *$5.74*









*Stainless Steel 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple* ( *SS-2-HN* ) *$4.72*









*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/4" MPT Elbow* *SS-4-ME* *$14.05*









*Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" MPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-1-2* *$5.64*









*Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" FPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-7-2* *$12.71*














*IDEAL STAINLESS STEEL* 54-1-12 *METERING VALVE*


----------



## herns

:icon_mrgr Dont tell me you wanted me to run prints again, Left C.:eek5:


----------



## herns

*Parts Used to Build Regulators Summary*

I've combined three posts into one post so that all the information about the parts used to build CO2 regulators can be found in one post. There may be additions and changes added when available.
------------------------------------------------------------------------


Left C,

Do I need a Hose Barb in this assembly?


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Left C,
> 
> Do I need a Hose Barb in this assembly?


There is a barb fitting that is not shown in the pictures which is used for the JBJ bubble counter tubing connector. When you remove it's "top nut" to attach the tubing, you will see it.


----------



## bsmith

Whats the latest info on those valves C?


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Whats the latest info on those valves C?


There are 4 of us that are interested in the chrome plated Ideal 52-1-12. A plating run is $75 whether it is 1 valve or many. 

Ideal is wanting to combine our order with another person's chrome plated valve order to keep the cost low. That way, our cost will be ~$71 per valve plus shipping. Should something change, we can get the stainless steel 54-1-12 valve for $105 plus shipping. The link to this valve is above.

My contact at Ideal told me to call him back next Monday or Tuesday for more details. He wants to have time to contact this other person and plan the logistics. The other person is using a different valve for the printing business than what we will be using.

How does this sound?

Does anyone else want a chrome plated Ideal metering valve?


----------



## herns

*Concoa 212 Series*

Left C,

This Concoa 212 Series can be use on CO2 service. :thumbsup:
Ebay item: 170268269907

This is similar with the one that I have.

MrM had posted one good looking reg.:thumbsup:
Check it out.
Ebay Item: 250421215381


----------



## Left C

I got my high purity Victor HPT272-40-350-4M from the vendor that has the Concoa. It needs a chrome plated CGA-320 nipple and nut. These Victor high purity regulators are shaped somewhat sleek like your Concoa. 

There was an error in the shipping and I received two regulators for $35 plus shipping. The other regulator was a Matheson dual stage high purity regulator. I told him that I received it and he let me keep it. He didn't want to pay for me to ship it back to him. My gain! Maybe I can build the Matheson for someone and sell it at a really low price with a Clippard solenoid and a Swagelok metering valve to someone that would like to have one.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> bsmith782 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Whats the latest info on those valves C?
> 
> 
> 
> There are 4 of us that are interested in the chrome plated Ideal 52-1-12. A plating run is $75 whether it is 1 valve or many.
> 
> Ideal is wanting to combine our order with another person's chrome plated valve order to keep the cost low. That way, our cost will be ~$71 per valve plus shipping. Should something change, we can get the stainless steel 54-1-12 valve for $105 plus shipping. The link to this valve is above.
> 
> My contact at Ideal told me to call him back next Monday or Tuesday for more details. He wants to have time to contact this other person and plan the logistics. The other person is using a different valve for the printing business than what we will be using.
> 
> How does this sound?
> 
> Would anyone else want a chrome plated Ideal metering valve?
Click to expand...

I'm calling Ideal tomorrow to find out how things a jelling out. There are four of us that have mentioned that they would like one. Please let me know if your are still interested. Also, if someone else would like to order; just let me know.

Left C


----------



## bsmith

You can count me in.  I want a shiny chrome one! I dont get it though arent the chrome ones just plated staneless. how come there cheaper?


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> You can count me in.  I want a shiny chrome one! I don't get it though aren't the chrome ones just plated stainless. how come there cheaper?


The chrome plated ones are going to be brass 52-1-12 valves. Ideal makes a T-shaped valve with the same specs. We could order it as well, but I like the angled 52-1-12 valve a bit better. The control knob isn't hanging out in the way with the angled valve.

The stainless steel valves are part number 54-1-12. Other than the body, the specs are the same.

We probably could get the stainless steel models chrome plated, but that is really overkill (and ~ $30 more). For our use, a stainless steel Ideal valve would probably last a millennium or more. You could leave it to your great, great grandchildren and they can leave it to their great, great grandchildren. 

If you want a chrome plated stainless steel valve; I see no reason why we can't order it. The same goes for the T-shaped valves. They come in brass or stainless steel too.

Just let me know and I will check it out.


----------



## bsmith

That makes more sense. I will be fine with the plated brass valve.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> I'm calling Ideal tomorrow to find out how things a jelling out. There are four of us that have mentioned that they would like one. Please let me know if your are still interested. Also, if someone else would like to order; just let me know.
> 
> Left C


I just spoke with Ideal. They are going to make 5 chrome plated 52-1-12 valves for us. Four people have been interested and I have an extra one ordered.

The production run isn't scheduled yet. My contact at Ideal is trying to combine orders so that the extra expense of chrome plating will not be too costly. As far as I know, the prices should stay the same or very close.

We are going to be getting something that few people have or no one has at this time. This sounds very good to me. 

You can get stainless steel parts from fordtrannyman's post or Swagelok and keep that "shiny" look. At this time, I don't know who sells chrome plated brass parts that we can use. Does anyone know where?


----------



## bsmith

Chrome Dual Stage Regulators and Chrome Needle Valves....... life is good!


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> You can order Victor chrome plated, high purity dual stage regulators through Michigan Reefers. Brass and chrome plated CGA-320 nipples and nuts are available too. Then you may need a post body kit.
> 
> *Post Body Kits*
> SuMo Aquarium Regulators: http://sumoregulator.com/
> Oregon Aqua Design: http://oregonaquadesign.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/after-regulator-assembly/cName/co2-co2-kits
> 
> 
> Max Inlet Pressure 3K psi
> Max Outlet Pressure 40 psi
> 
> Manufactured by *Victor*
> 
> Model No. HPT272B-350 http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT270-280.pdf
> Model No. HPT270B-250
> Model No. SGT500-40-350-DK http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/SGT500.pdf
> Model No. SGT500-40-4F-DK
> Model No. SG1500-40-350-DK
> Model No. GPT270B
> Model No. GPT270-125-590-BV
> 
> *Victor HPT270B-250
> High Purity 2 Stage Regulators*
> These Regulators are recommended for the delivery of noncorrosive high purity gases and calibration mixtures used in gas chromatography and other sensitive laboratory equipment. They offer maximum control of delivery pressure regardless of fluctuations in cylinder pressure. Both diaphragms are stainless steel, which will not contaminate the gas stream and are highly resistant to inboard diffusion of atmospheric contaminants.
> 
> *Features:*
> • Pure- Stainless steel diaphragms offer resistance to inboard diffusion of contaminants.
> • Dependable- Kel-F seats and double inlet filtering offer longer life with less maintenance.
> • Safe- External self-reseating relief valve provides maximum regulator protection.
> • Durable- All components are chrome-plated giving long lasting durability and attractive appearance.
> 
> *Thermadyne PDF:* http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_1175_56-0874.pdf
> 
> 
> *Please send all questions about these regulators to the Michigan Reefers thread above.*
> 
> 
> *Edit 3/26/09:* I just got a PM from jaysreef at MichiganReefers.com. These Victor high purity dual stage regulators come with a brass CGA-320 fitting and a Swagelok reducing fitting to attach your regulator. The chrome CGA-320 fitting is extra cost.
> 
> Edit 3/29/09: Please note that the contact has been moved to the Michigan Reefers site.


I emailed Anwar asking him how many of these regulators that he has. He has ten left. Included in that ten are a few of the SGT500 chrome plated, forged stainless steel body, stainless steel diaphragms, dual stage regulators.

Anwar is the person that has the regulators that are for sale on the Michigan Reefers web site. His friend is the contact at Michigan Reefers.


----------



## plantbrain

Some comments might help folks here to better tweak their systems.
I use pipe thread compound vs teflon tape.
I use the shortest distance I can for the CO2 lines.
I use the best check valves I can find.
I use good CO2 line and minimize the length.
I clean the disc and CO2 diffuser equipment often.
I clean the filters often.
I take my time to maintain a good easy removal or the reg when swapping empty tanks
Add new gaskets often.

A good reg is a once a lifetime purchase.
If you have a cheapy, sell to a poor hobbyists in need, then upgrade when you can.

Make sure there are no weak links, great valves, etc for everything.

Now.........you have spent all this time and $$$ on the CO2..........and for what?

More CO2 stability?

Fair enough.

CO2 is important where you use it.

However, take one more step back.............light.
Are you driving the highest w/gal you can? Do you have HLD?

Less light = less CO2 demand = more stability, even with a cheesy low grade reg and CO2 system.

Do we need to have so much light?
At what cost?

My point is less to do with high vs low light, but rather, getting the most out a good CO2 system and making life easier and less stressful for fish.
More deaths occur at the hand of poor CO2 usage than any other single factor, never heard a single person killing their fish with KNO3 over dosing....... more light = more CO2 = more growth etc.

Most say they do not want that, so consider light into all this discussion as well and what you want to risk/ or what you want to do to reduce the risk.

This way you get more out of the system as a whole in relation to these other factors, not just a good CO2 regulator.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


----------



## wondabread

Spoke to Anwar today and both of my regs shipped out - hopefully I'll have them for the weekend. Oh joyous day!

Anyone got an online lead on a stainless CGA 320 nut/nipple? Can't find any good sources that I can order online.

I found a few places that I can call - but I would like to see prices before I call anyone.


----------



## Left C

Stainless Steel or Chrome Plated Brass? I haven't searched for any stainless steel ones.

Anwar can probably install the one of your choice. He put a chrome plated brass one on for me. I had to wait a few extra days and it was $10 extra. The regulator looks better with the chrome nipple and nut than one with brass parts. He uses a Swagelow stainless steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" reducer to connect the solenoid at no extra cost.

One the other hand, my local Victor dealer prefers for me to give him my regulator and have his Victor regulator repair guy swap the chrome CGA-320 chrome nipple and nut out. He won't even sell me one.

I've seen them on the web for sale though and I saved some sites, but the stupid Geek Squad zapped out my links when they zapped out 3 of my USB ports and most of the memory that was on my hard drive. :icon_twis


----------



## wondabread

I would prefer SS, but will settle for chrome plated depending on price. I found one place online that had a cost of about $15 for SS. I am going to make some phone calls tomorrow to see if I can find them local.

These regulators look snazzy - and I would have had Anwar do it, but I just didn't want to wait. I haven't really had to work too much lately and have found myself extremely bored.

I can't wait to get them!


----------



## Left C

I like the Victor high purity regulators sleek looks.

You know that these things are built like tanks and they should last a very long time.


----------



## herns

*Post Body Kit*

Left C,

My post body kit finally showed up today.:thumbsup:










Please take a closer look on the 1/8" FPT x 1/8 MPT Elbow. It has a longer thread segment compared to the one you had shown.:eek5: Would this be a problem?

The 2 check valves that I bought from Ebay is only around $9 shipping incl. GLA sells this type for I think, $11 a piece. I still have to get a JBJ bc in Ebay.


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> ... Please take a closer look on the 1/8" FPT x 1/8 MPT Elbow. It has a longer thread segment compared to the one you had shown.:eek5: Would this be a problem? ...


That is a very nice looking kit.

There are slightly different parts or a combination of parts to serve the same function.

That is why it took me a bit to make a parts list. I tried to find as many as I could, but I didn't find them all.

Sometimes there will only be one picture for an item, like the elbow here, but many different sizes are listed, but there isn't necessarily a picture for every elbow. That explains why my picture may be slightly different than what you actually get.

So, in answer to your question; your elbow should work just fine. Rex wouldn't send it if it wouldn't work, right?


----------



## wondabread

I just got all the prices for the SS nut/nipple and WOW are they expensive. It's about $40 for both before shipping. Let this be a lesson - if you buy from Anwar, let him do the nut/nipple for $10!


----------



## Left C

Probably $50 including shipping! :icon_eek:

Do you have a Victor dealer and/or a welding supply company near you? They may be able to help you.

Those stock nipples are probably on very tight. Can you install your new ones without scratching them?

Will you post the link where you found the SS nipples and nuts?


----------



## Left C

*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt
#30 - lizziotti 
#31 - MarkMc 
#32 - tazdevil
#33 - Darkblade48
#34 - sunfire99
#35 - mrkookm
#36 - PRESTON4479
#37 - lovingHDTV
#38 - Homer_ Simpson
#39 - bgzbgz
#40 - wondabread
#41 - rich815
#42 - michu


----------



## wondabread

All the local welding supply places are in the process or have already been taken over by Airgas. Their prices are not customer friendly! I believe Anwar uses chrome plated brass, but I wanted to check the SS prices, well, just because. All fittings are for CGA 320.

Chrome plated brass nipple:
http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=94048

Chrome plated brass nut:
http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=94051&WT.svl=94051

Stainless nut:
http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=94053&WT.svl=94053

Stainless nipple:
http://www.airgas.com/browse/product.aspx?Msg=RecID&recIds=94052&WT.svl=94052

You must setup an account with airgas to order online. You do not need to be a company to do so, they sell direct to the public.

The best prices I could find were with Wesco gas and welding supply in Alabama. http://www.wescoweld.com/

They have both the stainless nut ($21.50) and the nipple ($19.50). ALL places I called do not stock stainless steel equipment like this. Luckily Wesco's distributor had them in stock and their warehouse was in PA, so I could get them in 1 business day. $40 plus shipping for both from Wesco. Airgas was $50 plus tax.

I am pretty sure (not certain) that the part numbers from Airgas were the same ones from Wesco. Airgas part numbers were from wesco, and I'm not sure, but I think they are the same place that I got the cheaper pricing.

I did not get chrome pricing, but I will be calling back for that pricing Monday because I'm not sure I want to pay $80 for both of my regs for SS...I mean, I want to, but I don't think I should.


----------



## wondabread

*Twins!*

FedEx just stopped by and gave me some presents!


----------



## Left C

They sure look great!


----------



## Left C

I asked mrmotorcycles if he has some more CO2 regulators. This is what he told me: _"I have some more L-tecs, a few Concoas, and some old Mathesons...........I give my blessing on the old Mathesons..........They are VERY reliable...........and very accurate.......I have had the least problems with them..............Thanks again.........

I don't have much experience with the L-tec's. These were used in applications that required good regulation and trouble free operation.

Thanks for your referrals and if VICTORS become available, I will let you know."_


----------



## herns

*Parts Used to Build Regulators Summary--Additional Info*

Job well done, Left C. 
Thanks for adding that info how to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder. 

I have to re-print that page that you have just updated.:icon_sad:


----------



## Left C

Thanks, I'll probably add something to it. You know me. :hihi:


----------



## wondabread

Left C said:


> I just spoke with Ideal. They are going to make 5 chrome plated 52-1-12 valves for us. Four people have been interested and I have an extra one ordered.
> 
> The production run isn't scheduled yet. My contact at Ideal is trying to combine orders so that the extra expense of chrome plating will not be too costly. As far as I know, the prices should stay the same or very close.
> 
> We are going to be getting something that few people have or no one has at this time. This sounds very good to me.
> 
> You can get stainless steel parts from fordtrannyman's post or Swagelok and keep that "shiny" look. At this time, I don't know who sells chrome plated brass parts that we can use. Does anyone know where?



Is it too late to get in on this? Hope not. LMK! I would like 2.


----------



## Left C

wondabread said:


> Is it too late to get in on this? Hope not. LMK! I would like 2.


I just sent an email to Ideal to include your two valves. 

What are you going to use to attach your regulator to the solenoid and needle/metering valve?Chrome and stainless steel? From Where?

I've only seen plastic and brass bubble counters. I wouldn't want a brass JBJ bubble counter attached to a chrome/stainless steel regulator.


----------



## wondabread

Left C said:


> I just sent an email to Ideal to include your two valves.
> 
> What are you going to use to attach your regulator to the solenoid and needle/metering valve?Chrome and stainless steel? From Where?
> 
> I've only seen plastic and brass bubble counters. I wouldn't want a brass JBJ bubble counter attached to a chrome/stainless steel regulator.


Unfortunately, brass jbjs are what I'm going to use. It will look like crap, but everything else will be SS except the valve, which I don't want to drop $115 for SS. 

When jbj or someone else puts out a SS or chrome plated BC, I'll spring for them. It's not like the brass ones are expensive.

I will be getting enough swagelok parts to build both of my regulators. The bubble counters are already ordered. I'm gonna get my solenoids from Rex. 

All of this will be under my 75g (so it won't be in sight) until I move all my tanks to a 8ft stand that I built last week (if it breaks, there will be a very large sale going on in the S&S!).

One question I do have is about the 'extra' connections on my regs. I think they are called safety valves? Mine seem to be open - should I just order a 1/4mpt plug for the holes after I remove them OR should I not remove them?


----------



## Darkblade48

wondabread said:


> One question I do have is about the 'extra' connections on my regs. I think they are called safety valves? Mine seem to be open - should I just order a 1/4mpt plug for the holes after I remove them OR should I not remove them?


You should not touch the safety valves in any way. As the name implies, they are there for pressure relief in case the CO2 tank is filled too full. As a result, the pressure relief valve will allow some of the CO2 gas to escape.


----------



## bsmith

Any update on the 52's?


----------



## michu

I ordered from anwar and hope to receive mine next week. Prior to ordering from anwar, I ordered the Milwaukee kit which arrived yesterday (with no instructions). The kit included the regulator, ph controller, and aquasomething 1000 reactor. I tried to hook it up to use until the victor dual stage arrives, but I heard a huge hissing sound immediately, so i turned the valve off at the tank. I'm guessing I didn't seal something well enough.. or possibly tighten something tight enough. I decided to leave well enough alone for the day and try again tomorrow after doing some research here to see if I can find what I did wrong. I *might* have it working by the time my dual stage victor arrives. LOL


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> Any update on the 52's?


The valves are being cleaned up for plating right now. They are going to the chrome plating company next Tuesday, the 27th, and they should have them back in approximately two weeks. That is when Ideal wants their money. The price will be $72 plus shipping to me and then I will ship them to everyone that has ordered. Send me your addresses by then.

The reason that it is taking so long is that Ideal wanted to combine chrome plating orders so that we wouldn't have to pay all of the $75 charge to get them chrome plated.


----------



## Left C

wondabread said:


> Is it too late to get in on this? Hope not. LMK! I would like 2.


I called to confirm that Ideal got my email and that they will process two more. It is fine with them. So, you are covered wondabread.


----------



## bsmith

So when would we need to send the money to you?


----------



## Left C

wondabread said:


> ... I will be getting enough swagelok parts to build both of my regulators. ...


Are you going to be using some of these Swagelok parts?

*SWAGELOK STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS*


*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT Hex Reducing Nipple* ( *SS-4-HRN-2* ) *$6.15*









*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT Reducer Bushing* *SS-4-RB-2* *$5.74*









*Stainless Steel 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple* ( *SS-2-HN* ) *$4.72*









*Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/4" MPT Elbow* *SS-4-ME* *$14.05*









*Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" MPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-1-2* *$5.64*









*Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" FPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-7-2* *$12.71*


----------



## Left C

bsmith782 said:


> So when would we need to send the money to you?


Probably one day in the first week of June or sooner if you want.

You can pay by check, money order and PayPal if it isn't credit card funded. If a PayPal account is credit card funded, just add a little more to cover the cost.

There will probably be two charges:
- one is for the valve and then being shipped to me
- the second is going to be the cost of shipping them from me to you
- if I can find the shipping charge early, you will only have one charge then.

Is insured Priority Mail OK with everyone?


----------



## bsmith

Sounds good. Just let m eknow the total amount and ill send the payment.


----------



## rich815

Just got a used Victor regulator. I guess I'm now in the club. 

Wow. What profesional build-quality compared to the JBJ and Milwaukee ones I have (let alone BIGGER!). It did not come with a solenoid which my JBJ and Milwaukee did. All I see is a barbed stem off the regulator, for the CO2 hose I guess. Can someone point me somewhere that talks about or refers to how one adapts this to a solenoid? Thanks.


----------



## sunfire99

You can use this if you're needing all the parts. Way less trouble than tracking them all down seperately. That kit comes with everything you need including check valves, barb fittings, and has a $10 upgrade option to a Fabco needle valve.


----------



## rich815

sunfire99 said:


> You can use this if you're needing all the parts. Way less trouble than tracking them all down seperately. That kit comes with everything you need including check valves, barb fittings, and has a $10 upgrade option to a Fabco needle valve.


Ok, maybe I"m being a fool here. Both my other regulators came with the solenoid already attached to the regulator and I just assumed they were screwed on there like a threaded bolt. I did not see how those would properly attach to my Victor's barbed hose nipple. But that link shows a solenoid that look exactly the same as those on my Milwaukee and JBJ. I need to look more closely how they are attached. Maybe the solenoids I already have will connect the same way. Thanks....


----------



## sunfire99

rich815 said:


> Ok, maybe I"m being a fool here. Both my other regulators came with the solenoid already attached to the regulator and I just assumed they were screwed on there like a threaded bolt. I did not see how those would properly attach to my Victor's barbed hose nipple. But that link shows a solenoid that look exactly the same as those on my Milwaukee and JBJ. I need to look more closely how they are attached. Maybe the solenoids I already have will connect the same way. Thanks....


You'll just need to remove the barb from the regulator. Everything else you need to connect the solenoid, etc is in that kit. I assume your regulator has a 1/4"MPT output (where the barb fitting is now). If so, then take it out and the solenoid will screw in right where the barb fitting used to be.


----------



## Darkblade48

sunfire99 said:


> You'll just need to remove the barb from the regulator. Everything else you need to connect the solenoid, etc is in that kit. I assume your regulator has a 1/4"MPT output (where the barb fitting is now). If so, then take it out and the solenoid will screw in right where the barb fitting used to be.


I think most solenoids have a 1/8" NPT port, so rich815 will need a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter as well.

Rex has a good process of how it is done.

http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## Left C

rich815 said:


> Just got a used Victor regulator. I guess I'm now in the club.
> 
> Wow. What professional build-quality compared to the JBJ and Milwaukee ones I have (let alone BIGGER!). It did not come with a solenoid which my JBJ and Milwaukee did. All I see is a barbed stem off the regulator, for the CO2 hose I guess. Can someone point me somewhere that talks about or refers to how one adapts this to a solenoid? Thanks.


Hi rich815

I'm glad that you got one. Which model did you get?

You remove the the brass 1/4" barbed adapter. The easiest way to do this is to is to use a vice. Put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator counterclockwise.

The first post in this thread has a list of helpful posts. There is a lot of info there.

Here is some info about building a regulator and an Ideal valve. 


Left C said:


> I've combined three posts into one post so that all the information about the parts used to build CO2 regulators can be found in one post. There may be additions and changes added when available.
> 
> 
> 
> *SuMo Post Body Kit - Parts & Wrenches*
> 
> These are the parts & wrenches that you need to build a regulator using the SuMo Post Body Kit. I wrote them in the order that they are attached.
> 
> 
> *VTS253A-1993 regulator*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *remove the brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter and discard - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter on the regulator that you have to remove is on very tight. A vice is very helpful. You put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator. You don't scratch or damage the regulator this way.
> 
> This is how I removed it without a vice. I got my 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench and used an open end wrench locked on to the 1/2" side of the boxed wrench. This in essence makes a longer wrench and provides more leverage. I laid the regulator on a rug. Then I put the 9/16" side of the wrench on the barbed adapter and I stood on the regulator to remove the adapter. I had to turn it a little bit at a time and I had to keep getting another "bite" on the adapter, but I got it off.
> 
> 
> Some regulators don't have barbed adapters. They can have different types of adapters. My Victor VTS253D-320 shows one of the other types of adapters that still has to be removed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *SuMo Post Body Kit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's go from right to left because that is the order that they go on the regulator.
> 
> 
> *brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow (Note: The picture shows it already attached to the solenoid.) - 5/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JBJ bubble counter - tighten by hand*
> *brass 12 mm nut on top of JBJ bubble counter - 1/2" or 12 mm wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yours should look something like this VTS253D-320. Please note that it has a Burkert solenoid instead of a Clippard solenoid and I used slightly different elbow parts to attach the regulator and solenoid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc. to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder.
> 
> *TOOL LIST*
> a vice is very handy for assembly
> these are not needed if you have a vice - 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench or 9/16" x 5/8" boxed end wrench
> 5/8" open end wrench
> 7/8" open end wrench (optional)
> 7/16" open or boxed end wrench
> 9/16" open end wrench
> 9/16" boxed end wrench (optional)
> 1/2" or 12 mm open or boxed end wrench
> regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc.
> 
> Some people use Teflon tape. I use a non hardening pipe joint compound.
> OATEY 31229 GREAT WHITE Pipe Joint Compound w/Teflon, 1oz.
> "Lubricates and seals all threaded joints. White, non-hardening, non-separating, non-toxic paste. Withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases from -50 to +400 degrees F, and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50 to +500 degrees F. For use with water, steam, caustic or dilute acid lines of PVC, CPVC, ABS, cycolac, polypropylene, iron, steel or copper."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: Make sure that you use Teflon tape or pipe compound on the threads at the top of the bubble counter. It could leak if you don't.
> 
> 
> 
> *XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*
> 
> 
> herns suggested that I should post some info about how to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder:
> _- make sure you use a washer
> - tighten the heck out of it and then tighten it some more
> - *do not use Teflon tape on the threads*, the thread design and washer provides the tight seal
> - turn the regulator working pressure knob counter clockwise until it is almost ready to fall off, this sets it to near 0 psi and keeps you from blowing the low pressure gauge
> - slowly open the CO2 cylinder
> - check for leaks
> - a full cylinder should read ~ 800 psi
> - turn the working pressure knob clockwise to set your working pressure
> 
> That's it._
> 
> 
> *xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx*
> 
> 
> Here is some more info concerning regulator connection parts.
> 
> 
> If you don't need an elbow, you can rig it different ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Use the 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT between the regulator and solenoid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> - This way requires two parts. Use a 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT bushing attached to the regulator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve
> 
> 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 1/8" MPT nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are two other ways to do an elbow. Each requires two parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to the solenoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve
> 
> 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 1/8" MPT nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx*
> 
> 
> *SWAGELOK STAINLESS STEEL FITTINGS*
> 
> 
> *Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT Hex Reducing Nipple* ( *SS-4-HRN-2* ) *$6.15*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT Reducer Bushing* *SS-4-RB-2* *$5.74*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stainless Steel 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple* ( *SS-2-HN* ) *$4.72*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stainless Steel 1/4" MPT x 1/4" MPT Elbow* *SS-4-ME* *$14.05*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" MPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-1-2* *$5.64*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Stainless Steel Tubing Connector, 1/8" FPT x 1/8" ID Tubing* *SS-2-HC-7-2* *$12.71*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *IDEAL STAINLESS STEEL* 54-1-12 *METERING VALVE*



*Here is a picture of Rex's kit that herns received.
*


herns said:


> Left C,
> 
> My post body kit finally showed up today.:thumbsup:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 check valves that I bought from Ebay is only around $9 shipping incl. GLA sells this type for I think, $11 a piece. I still have to get a JBJ bc in Ebay.



*Here is a picture of lovingHDTV's Oregon Aqua Design's kit.*


----------



## wondabread

Left C said:


> Are you going to be using some of these Swagelok parts?


Yes, I _should_ get my order Weds, I ordered from a PA distributor. Just have to wait for regs from Rex and BCs from Singapore or where ever they come from.

Thanks for getting my valve order in too, that saved me some money.:thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

You are welcome about the valves. We caught it in time.


----------



## Left C

I just noticed that we have over 25,000 views now.


----------



## herns

wondabread said:


> Yes, I _should_ get my order Weds, I ordered from a PA distributor. Just have to wait for regs from Rex and BCs from Singapore or where ever they come from.
> 
> Thanks for getting my valve order in too, that saved me some money.:thumbsup:


An Ebay seller from Malaysia who sells a cheaper JBJ bc is aquaticmagic. I got mine from them too.

I got a good deal for two check valves from Ebay for about $4.98 a piece with FREE shipping. Also from a Malaysian seller aquaticworld85. GLA sells this for $9.99 each.

Take a look.
http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/check-valves/brass-check-valve.html


----------



## wondabread

Is this a pic of the safety valve? My problem is, it looks open to me. What should I do with this? Will it be ok or is it actually open? This is one of the regs I got from Anwar.


----------



## sunfire99

wondabread said:


> Is this a pic of the safety valve? My problem is, it looks open to me. What should I do with this? Will it be ok or is it actually open? This is one of the regs I got from Anwar.


Yes that's the safety valve. It looks open but it's fine. I have a couple of regulators from Anwar and it works fine.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> I just noticed that we have over 25,000 views now.


I have learned the parts of a post body kit and how to build a regulator in this thread. It takes time reading 54 pages but its all worth it.:eek5:

Great job Left C!:thumbsup:

Thank you!


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> I have learned the parts of a post body kit and how to build a regulator in this thread. It takes time reading 54 pages but its all worth it.:eek5:
> 
> Great job Left C!:thumbsup:
> 
> Thank you!


Thank you very much, herns. I really appreciate it. It was a bit of a learning curve involved for many of us including me, but I believe that the "fruits of our labor" have paid off and may continue to pay off into the future. Many of us now have very good and somewhat inexpensive aquarium regulators including some of the salty guys.


----------



## herns

*Make this Thread Sticky*

Left C,

If we can make this thread sticky, I think this would be a great reference to both new and old user wanting to assemble great lifetime regulators.:icon_idea

Do you know how we can do that?

--herns


----------



## wondabread

If I had seen this thread last summer, it would have saved me 2 red sea $100+ purchases that were pointless. I have read this thread post 1 to last post 3-4 times and have referred to this thread dozens of times over the last few weeks.


----------



## michu

Same here.


----------



## rrrrramos

(sellers pic, not mine)
Just picked this up, finally gonna get pressurized setup! 
Can anyone identify the needle valve? It's a Nupro, which if I'm not mistaken is a part of Swagelok? 
I'm just glad I waited out and ran into this quick!


----------



## Left C

Good catch! 
That's right. Nupro and ****** are part of Swagelok. That looks like a 1/8" SS-SS2-A. Check out page 5: http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-142.PDF
More info: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-SS2-A

If you don't like the tubing, Swagelok makes a SS and brass adapter for it. These are the 1/8" adapters: http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_results.aspx

There are special directions for tightening them. It's shown in the tube fitting video: http://www.swagelok.com/fittings/tube_fittings/tube_fittings_training.htm


----------



## rrrrramos

Yeah, I've got a VTS-253A, and a 2.5# tank as well


----------



## Left C

Cool! I'm sure you know to secure your CO2 cylinder. The heavy Victor regulator will easily make it topple over.


----------



## rrrrramos

Yup! Box built-in to my stand, already holding the cylinder with the regulator attached just chillin there. Been holdin it sturdy since day 1!


----------



## cheea

*Victor HPT272-40-350-4M*

I just received my Victor yesterday. Now to get the kit and I'll lbe off to the races.....
I do have one question for anyone that can help please. I read all 58 pages of this tread and still don't have a clear answer.

The relief ( if what that is what it is called ) valve at the 4 O'clock position on mine is an open pipe. There is not hat shaped nut over it. I am good to go the way it is or should I get some replacement part for it ?

Thank you in advance.

Michael


----------



## Darkblade48

cheea said:


> The relief ( if what that is what it is called ) valve at the 4 O'clock position on mine is an open pipe. There is not hat shaped nut over it. I am good to go the way it is or should I get some replacement part for it ?


What model regulator do you have? The relief valve looks different for different regulators. My Victor also has an open ended release valve, and I was worried because it didn't have the familiar cap shaped nut. However, it seems to be OK.


----------



## cheea

Darkblade48 said:


> What model regulator do you have? The relief valve looks different for different regulators. My Victor also has an open ended release valve, and I was worried because it didn't have the familiar cap shaped nut. However, it seems to be OK.


*I have a HPT272-40-350-4M which I bought off Orlando. Had a word with him about the release valve and he says that it is factory adjusted and it is good to go. Thank you for the help*


----------



## herns

58 pages & 26,460 views and counting. WOW!


----------



## Left C

*CHROME PLATED IDEAL 52-1-12 METERING VALVES AVAILABLE SOON*

Hi

Please PM me if you are interested before 6/12/09

Left C


----------



## bsmith

I cant wait to get mine!!!


----------



## michu

I just ordered one and am psyched about it as well. If I can possibly find a way to scrape together some more cash, I might order a second!

Just thrilled to get this needle valve to match my regulator! Woo-hoo!


----------



## Left C

Ideal just called me. I just paid for them and they are being shipped from North Dakota as I type this. I had them shipped regular UPS, so I should have them in 5 to 6 days.

Sadly, one of the valves didn't work after the plating process. Don't worry. It was an extra.

Just as soon as I get them, I'll ship them out.

Thanks, 
Left C


----------



## Cosmic Trout

Being new to the forum i would like to say hi to all. Stumbled on this site and ended up reading the whole thread on CO2 equipment which turned out very informative with lots of pimped out rigs. I guessed my question is does anyone here know the part numbers for the Ideal metering valve that Left C is talking about in stainless steel? Is the chrome plated the same as the ss? Thanks in advance for any comments on this question.


----------



## plantbrain

58 pages for a victor reg, good priority to start with, then go to the next step after that.

Now obsess about the method to diffuse the CO2 and the roles current play and light?

BTW: Velcro strap to hold the tank in place is easy and quick to remove.
They also sell those Tank clamps at welding shops and fire places.


Regards, 
Tom Barr


----------



## Left C

Cosmic Trout said:


> ... I guessed my question is does anyone here know the part numbers for the Ideal metering valve that Left C is talking about in stainless steel? Is the chrome plated the same as the ss? Thanks in advance for any comments on this question.


*IDEAL STAINLESS STEEL* 54-1-12 *METERING VALVE*









You can click on the 54-1-12 blue portion above and get the specs about this metering valve.

The chrome plated ones are "one offs" (special ordered). You can get the forged brass 52-1-12 valves nickle plated as well.

At this time, there are only 9 of the chrome plated ones as far as I know.


----------



## Cosmic Trout

Thanks for the quick reply. As far as the plating or the finish on this valve is concern does it make it more expensive to buy? I'm currently shopping for a CO2 rig but I'm torn between just buying a Sumo, GLA or just build my own (after i read all this infos. on this site). Great site and many thanks.


----------



## Left C

The stainless steel Ideal valves are a stock item as are the forged brass ones. I just had some forged brass valves chrome plated as a special order. They were a little more expensive than the regular forged brass valves. The SS valves are about $40 more.

Swagelok also makes many versions of stainless steel and chrome plated brass metering valves that work well for our use.


----------



## Left C

All of the chrome plated 52-1-12 valves are sold.


----------



## plantbrain

Left C said:


> *IDEAL STAINLESS STEEL* 54-1-12 *METERING VALVE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can click on the 54-1-12 blue portion above and get the specs about this metering valve.
> 
> The chrome plated ones are "one offs" (special ordered). You can get the forged brass 52-1-12 valves nickle plated as well.
> 
> At this time, there are only 9 of the chrome plated ones as far as I know.


These are very nice and well worth the $, just like the Victor's.
A strong focus on the best CO2 system at each component is wise.

Good reg, good Valve, good solenoid, and large as tank as you can lift, fit, etc.

Next you focus on delivery of CO2, what parts make all this nice stuff work well in the tank?

Also important.

CO2 is critical and thus its control is critical.
CO2 can = algae when unstable, it can kill fish, tweaking it is an art and takes time and a good eye.

All these things mean starting with good stuff.
The valve and reg should last you a lifetime.

I have a Victoir reg and know another person who's is even older, 22 years.

Hard to beat that.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


----------



## Cosmic Trout

Great article on special regulators we hobbyist can use for our application. I was just wondering if someone can somehow put a lists of all regulator makers and their model numbers that we can use as a CO2 regulator for aquarium use (example, Smith, Concoa, Victor, Norgren etc.). After reading this thread over and over again i've decided to just go for it and built my own but i have no idea which other regulator brand names (and model numbers) will work for CO2 application. I thought a lists will be a good thing to guide newbies like myself. Regards.


----------



## herns

Cosmic Trout said:


> I was just wondering if someone can somehow put a lists of all regulator makers and their model numbers that we can use as a CO2 regulator for aquarium use (example, Smith, Concoa, Victor, Norgren etc.).


The Concoa 212 Series has stainless steel diaphragm that can be use for CO2 application like this one. 

It needs a CGA-320 nut & nipple.










I got it Brand New for just $9.99 + $14 shipping.


----------



## Left C

If some people are looking, there are two Restek chrome plated dual stage regulators on eBay. They are built by Victor and have stainless steel diaphragms; HPT270 models. They come with a 30 day money back warranty.The specs say that they come with CGA-320 fittings for CO2, but the picture shows a different fitting. If it doesn't have a CGA-320 fitting, it can easily be changed. These are similar to the ones being sold on MichiganReefers.com. Item Number:150340077073.

There is also a Matheson - Model #3104-350 regulator for sale at a good starting bid. Please note that this is a heavy duty model and it has a 0 to 200 psi low pressure gauge. You will need to change the CGA-350 fitting to a CGA-320 fitting. It was for sale last week and no one bid on it. It is Item Number: 120434103251.


----------



## Jeff5614

I contacted the seller about the Restek regulators LeftC mentions above and was told he no longer had those regulators but he did send info regarding others he has that included a rebadged chrome high purity victor and three brass mathesons. They all have the 30 day money back guarantee. He was also willing to negotiate a lower price than the posted price.


----------



## Left C

I found another rebadged Victor HPT500 chrome plated two stage high purity regulator on eBay. It is Item Number: 160341097005. It needs the CGA-320 fitting. The price is a little on the high side, though.	













There is a new Victor VTS453A heavy duty two stage regulator for sale too. It needs the CGA-320 fitting. This regulator is larger than the VTS253 and high purity regulators. It is Item number: 130312035452. It needs the CGA-320 fitting as well.


----------



## Left C

Some people may find this "Find the correct pipe thread size" link for NPT useful.


----------



## rrrrramos

All set up and running!


----------



## Left C

It looks great! You will really like your A model VTS253 and your Swagelok valve.


----------



## Cosmic Trout

I contacted Jay from Michiganreefers.com and he then referred me to Anwar his contact that sells the medical-grade regulators. He is offering me a Victor SGT500 (SS) for $100.00 shipped and $80.00 for the HPT270 (chromed). I emailed him for more info. on the SGT500 since i haven't seen one yet. Could that HPT500 be the same as the SGT500 regulators? Thanks for all the replies.


----------



## Left C

I got a SGT 500 from Anwar with a chrome plated CGA-320 fitting and a Swagelok 1/4" MPT 1/8" MPT fitting on the regulator. This regulator has a chrome plated forged stainless steel body and stainless steel diaphragms. It is really nice!

The HPT 270 is a little different. I has a forged brass body that is chrome plated. It has stainless steel diaphragms too. It is a very nice regulator too.

Either of those regulators will work great for you.

The HPT 500 is a model that I am not familiar with. 

Here is a link to some high purity, process gas and industrial regulators.


----------



## Cosmic Trout

I looked up all the regulators Left C mentioned above on Ebay and they're all still available but as he said some are pricey. Jeff would you be able to give me the link to this guy's Ebay store? Appreciate all your help, thanks.


----------



## Cosmic Trout

With all these choices i have it is just a matter of time before i buy one. That Concoa 212 brand new is sweet and what an awesome deal!


----------



## Left C

Did you notice the Concoa that is Item Number: 170268269907?


----------



## Jeff5614

Cosmic Trout said:


> ...Jeff would you be able to give me the link to this guy's Ebay store?...



PM sent


----------



## herns

Cosmic Trout said:


> With all these choices i have it is just a matter of time before i buy one. That Concoa 212 brand new is sweet and what an awesome deal!


Take a look how Concoa 212 was built compared to my other Victor VTS-253A-320. 
There is one good Victor Regulator seller in Ebay that said Concoa is better than Victor.:eek5:


----------



## rich815

I've been following this thread siliently since I picked one up myself. Still got to change out the stem and put the solenoid on.

He he! You guys are like classic car buffs with these things!!


----------



## Cosmic Trout

I liked that Concoa brand new although the one Left C is talking about isn't that bad at all. I'm still looking at the moment and last night i stumbled on this site: http://www.testx.com/v2/newad.cfm?catId=105
what do you guys think of the Air Product and Airgas regulators versus the Concoa regulators there? They're all a little on the pricey side but it doesn't look at all used up. Anwar sent me pics. of his used SGT500 and another guy sent me a picture of an AMCO regulator referred to me by Jeff.


----------



## Left C

I can only say that the prices are too high for me in your link. As an example, they have a Matheson 8-320 tri-gas regulator for $116.99. You can find them from time to time in the $20 to $30 range on eBay. They are very good for our use.

The Victor SGT500 has a forged stainless steel body and stainless steel diaphragms. It should last a long, long time if it is in good condition when you receive it. I got one from Anwar. Just as soon as I get my chrome plated Ideal valve and Swagelok stainless steel assembly parts, I'm going to build it and test drive it.

These are the Victor regulator part numbers that I like that are already set up for CO2 use:
VTS253A-1993 (chrome plated forged brass body)
VTS253A-320 (forged brass body)
VTS253B-320 (forged brass body)
VTS253C-320 (forged brass body)
VTS253D-320 (forged brass body)

I like these high purity chrome plated dual stage Victor regulators too. Usually you find them with CGA-350 and CGA-580 fittings, but they will work great for our use use when you replace the stock fitting for a CGA-320 fitting, if it doesn't have the CGA-320 fitting already.
SGT500 (chrome plated forged stainless steel body and stainless steel diaphragms)
HTP270 (chrome plated forged brass body and stainless steel diaphragms)
HPT272 (chrome plated forged brass body and stainless steel diaphragms)

The VTS453 models are a larger and more heavy duty regulator that can be used if you can find one with a usable low pressure side.

There are many "rebadged" Victor regulators and I don't know what all are available.


----------



## Cosmic Trout

True, online surplus stores are still expensive compare to Ebay. Unless someone have a specific regulator he's looking for we're all better off on Ebay. I'm still waiting to see what is available out there and hopefully by the end of this week i will make my purchase. Anyway, is it cheaper for me to buy individual parts like the solenoid, needle valve or to just buy the post assembly from Sumo? If i choose to buy them myself where can i get the Ideal valve, solenoid and the CGA320 chromed nipple? What is your opinion on the Aqualine Ventil solenoid, can i mount it directly onto the regulator?


----------



## Cosmic Trout

Rich i just viewed your tank and it is beautiful. I didn't realized your local, just let me know when you prune so i dont have to go to Albany Aquarium and Aqua Forest for my plant purchase. I can't wait to go pressurized.


----------



## Darkblade48

Cosmic Trout said:


> Anyway, is it cheaper for me to buy individual parts like the solenoid, needle valve or to just buy the post assembly from Sumo? If i choose to buy them myself where can i get the Ideal valve, solenoid and the CGA320 chromed nipple? What is your opinion on the Aqualine Ventil solenoid, can i mount it directly onto the regulator?


I believe it would be cheaper for you to buy the parts individually, as this means you can bargain hunt for the best price. As I mentioned in another thread, LeftC managed to pick up a quality Swagelok needle valve for $0.99, so it is possible that such excellent deals are out there.

If you want the Ideal valve, Rex Grigg sells it for $65 plus shipping. You can also order directly from Ideal(I believe). You may be able to find Ideal valves on eBay, but I've found that Swagelok valves are more common. 

Depending on what solenoid you want will determine where you purchase it from. For example, Rex Grigg sells the Clippard solenoid. You might want a Burkert solenoid (does not get as hot as the Clippard, but more expensive, and also lacks the LED). I believe there was a user on eBay selling Parker solenoids recently for $13. However, the latter does not come wired (so you may have to do a little electrical wiring). I have never heard of the Aqualine Ventil solenoid, so I can't really comment on it.

As for the CGA320 nipple, there were several source links posted (many) pages back, I believe. If not, try a search; I know there was a user on the forums that had a walkthrough for the CGA nipple switch as well.


----------



## VisionQuest28

I have found a good quality dual stage regulator cheap, but its CGA-510. I tried finding a CGA-510 to CGA-320 adaptor, but they dont seem to exist. So im assuming that means that either this regulator wont work at all for CO2 or that it already has an adaptor on there, going from whatever is was originally to CGA-510? Im hoping to be able to get some more info tonight. Everything i know about this regulator makes it seem like it should work for CO2, its a dual stage high purity regulator made for inert gasses. Anybody have any ideas on my inability to find the right connections???


----------



## wondabread

VisionQuest28 said:


> I have found a good quality dual stage regulator cheap, but its CGA-510. I tried finding a CGA-510 to CGA-320 adaptor, but they dont seem to exist. So im assuming that means that either this regulator wont work at all for CO2 or that it already has an adaptor on there, going from whatever is was originally to CGA-510? Im hoping to be able to get some more info tonight. Everything i know about this regulator makes it seem like it should work for CO2, its a dual stage high purity regulator made for inert gasses. Anybody have any ideas on my inability to find the right connections???



As long as it is for inert gases, you must take the 510 nut/nipple off and replace it with a 320 nut/nipple. It requires a vice, preferably with padded clamps. I posted several part numbers for cga connectors from airgas several pages back.


----------



## Left C

VisionQuest28 said:


> I have found a good quality dual stage regulator cheap, but its CGA-510. I tried finding a CGA-510 to CGA-320 adaptor, but they dont seem to exist. So im assuming that means that either this regulator wont work at all for CO2 or that it already has an adaptor on there, going from whatever is was originally to CGA-510? Im hoping to be able to get some more info tonight. Everything i know about this regulator makes it seem like it should work for CO2, its a dual stage high purity regulator made for inert gasses. Anybody have any ideas on my inability to find the right connections???


Specifics matter greatly when you ask a question like this. Does your regulator have a stainless steel diaphragm? All of the high purity regulators that I know of have them.

A CGA-510 fitting is used for Acetylene and Propane plus many other gases. I'd be leary of a regulator like this. You want to be sure that none of the previous use gases are expelled into your aquarium.

I sure wouldn't want any of your fishy buddies and critters to take a dirt nap.

Please follow wonderbreads instructions as well should you use this regulator.

This link has what gases are used with the many CGA fittings. It is a good reference.


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> Ideal just called me. I just paid for them and they are being shipped from North Dakota as I type this. I had them shipped regular UPS, so I should have them in 5 to 6 days.
> 
> Sadly, one of the valves didn't work after the plating process. Don't worry. It was an extra.
> 
> Just as soon as I get them, I'll ship them out.
> 
> Thanks,
> Left C


I just got the valves. 

My eyeballs almost popped out of my head when I opened them up! These valves look great!! They look much better than the brass valves that aren't chrome plated.

I'll be shipping them out tomorrow.


----------



## Darkblade48

Left C said:


> A CGA-510 fitting is used for Acetylene and Propane plus many other gases. I'd be leary of a regulator like this. You want to be sure that none of the previous use gases are expelled into your aquarium.


It should not matter what gases the regulator was previously used for, as the gases will diffuse out regardless. There is no possible way for gases like acetylene and propane to be expelled into the aquarium from the regulator.


----------



## wondabread

Darkblade48 said:


> It should not matter what gases the regulator was previously used for, as the gases will diffuse out regardless. There is no possible way for gases like acetylene and propane to be expelled into the aquarium from the regulator.


This has been noted in this thread previously, however, personally, I would still not use a regulator that has been used for a gas you mentioned above. Just a personal preference - I like to err on the side of caution.


----------



## wondabread

Left C said:


> I just got the valves.
> 
> My eyeballs almost popped out of my head when I opened them up! These valves look great!! They look much better than the brass valves that aren't chrome plated.
> 
> I'll be shipping them out tomorrow.


Can't wait!


----------



## Cosmic Trout

Any extra Ideal chromed plated needle valve let me know, thanks.


----------



## herns

*Cga-580*

Hi Left C,

Take a look this good looking Matheson inert gas reg.

http://las.perkinelmer.com/ProductC...C85LG.jpg&AltText=High Purity Brass Regulator

-herns


----------



## VisionQuest28

Darkblade48 said:


> It should not matter what gases the regulator was previously used for, as the gases will diffuse out regardless. There is no possible way for gases like acetylene and propane to be expelled into the aquarium from the regulator.


I dont know enough to disagree with anybody about this stuff yet, but i was thinking the same thing. I understand just being extra cautious, but it doesnt seem to likely to me that there would be any gas left in the regulator. The price is right, i might try it, ASSUMING i can get the guy who is selling it to get in contact with me...not having luck with that yet. Not gonna buy it, no matter how cheap it is if he cant take the time to reply to questions. So we will see....


----------



## MoparMuscl

herns said:


> Take a look how Concoa 212 was built compared to my other Victor VTS-253A-320.
> There is one good Victor Regulator seller in Ebay that said Concoa is better than Victor.:eek5:


I love my Concoa 212! Rock solid! I picked it up off Ebay for ~$70 brand new.


----------



## VisionQuest28

Nice looking set up you have there, well done!!!


----------



## herns

MoparMuscl said:


> I love my Concoa 212! Rock solid! I picked it up off Ebay for ~$70 brand new.


Awesome!

What is that long brass piece on the right that connects your Concoa & CGA-320 to the Co2 tank?


----------



## MoparMuscl

herns said:


> Awesome!
> 
> What is that long brass piece on the right that connects your Concoa & CGA-320 to the Co2 tank?


Anything on the right side of the regulator is exactly the way it came. Here is pics of both sides.


----------



## herns

So, from Concoa flow adjuster you have 1/8" MPT nipple & 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to solenoid. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Great set-up & thanks for taking time posting my request.


----------



## MoparMuscl

herns said:


> So, from Concoa flow adjuster you have 1/8" MPT nipple & 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to solenoid. Correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> Great set-up & thanks for taking time posting my request.


Kinda...I think. Starting with the manual shut off valve (which I don't use, it was just there so I left it), is a 1/4" MTP x 1/8" FPT bushing. Next is a 1/8" MPT nipple, and then a 1/8" FPT elbow. Last is a 1/8" MPT nipple that screws into the clippard solenoid. There is other ways to obtain that, but I like the spacing on those fittings. It kept everyting as compact as possible.


----------



## wondabread

Left your PM box is full. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to do the NV deal and thank you for getting them shipped so fast. I ordered 2 solenoids from Rex on Memorial day and they just came yesterday - I was starting to think the valves would beat the solenoids here.

No worries on the signature, someone should be here.


----------



## Left C

wondabread said:


> Left your PM box is full. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to do the NV deal and thank you for getting them shipped so fast. I ordered 2 solenoids from Rex on Memorial day and they just came yesterday - I was starting to think the valves would beat the solenoids here.
> 
> No worries on the signature, someone should be here.


Thanks! I just cleared it. Sorry 'bout that.

You are really going to like your valves. They look great!

I think the cut-off is $200 and not signing. Since yours is insured for $300, that is why the signature is needed.


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Hi Left C,
> 
> Take a look this good looking Matheson inert gas reg.
> 
> http://las.perkinelmer.com/ProductC...C85LG.jpg&AltText=High Purity Brass Regulator
> 
> -herns


That's a nice looking regulator. I know that mrmotorcycles really likes Matheson regulators because they hold up so well.


----------



## Left C

Cosmic Trout said:


> Any extra Ideal chromed plated needle valve let me know, thanks.


I'm sorry, but I don't have any extras.

Ideal chrome plated 10 of the 52-1-12 valves, but they shipped me 9. There was something wrong with one of them. Mr. Sand said that it didn't work and he didn't tell me what was wrong with it. It might be repairable. You may want to contact him and see if it can be fixed. That way you can maybe get one.

Here is another option. Ideal has a stainless steel 54-1-12 metering valve. Mr. Sand told me that the price is $109 plus shipping. http://idealvalve.thomasnet.com/ite...-valves/item-1172?&seo=110&bc=100|1007|0|1005

You can contact Bill Sand at [email protected] or (701) 352-1164. Ideal's address is:
Ideal Valve Incorporated
1475 Lavergne Ave. 
Grafton, ND 58237


----------



## herns

MoparMuscl said:


> Kinda...I think. Starting with the manual shut off valve (which I don't use, it was just there so I left it), is a 1/4" MTP x 1/8" FPT bushing. Next is a 1/8" MPT nipple, and then a 1/8" FPT elbow. Last is a 1/8" MPT nipple that screws into the clippard solenoid. There is other ways to obtain that, but I like the spacing on those fittings. It kept everyting as compact as possible.


Is your CO2 cylinder a 10lbs? 

Im looking for a smaller tank to fit my 14" Height space of my aquarium stand.


----------



## MoparMuscl

herns said:


> Is your CO2 cylinder a 10lbs?
> 
> Im looking for a smaller tank to fit my 14" Height space of my aquarium stand.


Yep, 10 lbs.


----------



## Left C

BeverageFactory.com's 2.5# aluminum cylinder is 14" tall. Would it fit?
http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2/C25H.shtml


----------



## Darkblade48

herns said:


> Is your CO2 cylinder a 10lbs?
> 
> Im looking for a smaller tank to fit my 14" Height space of my aquarium stand.





Left C said:


> BeverageFactory.com's 2.5# aluminum cylinder is 14" tall. Would it fit?
> http://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/tanks/co2/C25H.shtml


Keep in mind that you have to take the height of the cylinder and the regulator into consideration (the regulator will often add a few inches of height).


----------



## Left C

Here are some more tips, herns.

- You can tilt the CO2 cylinder a bit to get clearance if you mount it solidly.

- Also consider that a regulator can be turned 360 degrees on its axis for mounting. It doesn't have to be in a vertical position. Plus, you can use various parts (elbows and straights) to keep the solenoid and needle valve out of the way. I wouldn't use a JBJ bubble counter unless I could figure out a way to lower it or keep it out of the way. I don't know if a CGA-320 elbow is available for tight places.

- Can you cut a hole in your stand for your CO2 cylinder?

- I'd go with a nice looking 20# cylinder and not have it in your stand. That new and shiny Concoa regulator sure could be a show piece.

- I have a 20# cylinder that is behind the aquarium and stand. You can't see it unless you look behind the aquarium.

- More 2.5#'s plus the other sizes:
Here is a 2.5# cylinder that is 13" tall. http://kegman.net/carbon.htm

This 2.5# is 13 1/2" tall. http://www.kegerators.com/air-tanks.php

14.1" for this one. http://www.aquariumplants.com/product_p/t.htm?Click=13460&gclid=CMrJ8IKNmJsCFZpM5QodM0k8oQ


----------



## Left C

LEFT C said:


> A CGA-510 fitting is used for Acetylene and Propane plus many other gases. I'd be leary of a regulator like this. You want to be sure that none of the previous use gases are expelled into your aquarium.





Darkblade48 said:


> It should not matter what gases the regulator was previously used for, as the gases will diffuse out regardless. There is no possible way for gases like acetylene and propane to be expelled into the aquarium from the regulator.





VisionQuest28 said:


> I dont know enough to disagree with anybody about this stuff yet, but i was thinking the same thing. I understand just being extra cautious, but it doesnt seem to likely to me that there would be any gas left in the regulator. The price is right, i might try it, ASSUMING i can get the guy who is selling it to get in contact with me...not having luck with that yet. Not gonna buy it, no matter how cheap it is if he cant take the time to reply to questions. So we will see....


Thermadyne doesn't recommend it for liability issues plus it will void the warranty if the stock nut and nipple is replaced for a CGA-320. Several welding supply vendors do not recommend doing this either for the same issues. When I got my first specialty regulator, a HPT272-40-350-4M (previously used with Hydrogen), I asked my local Victor dealer about swapping out the CGA-350 fitting for a CGA-320 fitting. He told me that sometimes remnant traces of the gas can get trapped between the internal parts of the regulator. Gas can also be trapped in the surface pores of various internal parts. This "old" gas may then be expelled when the CO2 is passing through. High purity regulators with stainless steel diaphragms have a much less chance of this happening. 

The following is from: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-20.html#post743710

_*REGULATOR SELECTION (MATERIALS)*

*General Gas Use*

The selection of the proper gas regulator involves many factors including body and internal materials of construction. For general use, regulators of brass construction with elastomeric diaphragms will give good service in noncorrosive service where slight contamination or diffusion from an elastomeric diaphragm is not important. Brass regulators with stainless steel diaphragms prevent air diffusion and adsorption of gases on the diaphragm. This is particularly important with low concentration mixtures of hydrocarbons in which the trace component may be adsorbed on the elastomeric diaphragm.

The gas regulator must be constructed using materials suited to the application. Industrial general purpose regulators are often constructed with either Buna-N or Neoprene diaphragms. Regulators with Buna-N or Neoprene diaphragms are not suitable for GC analysis that can be affected by the diffusion of atmospheric oxygen through the elastomer diaphragm or the outgassing of monomers and dimers from the elastomer. In fact, laboratories that perform temperature programmed analysis are faced with excessive baseline drift and large unresolved peaks due to this diffusion and outgassing.

*High-Purity Gas Service*

The ideal construction for high-purity gas service is a gas regulator that has a stainless steel diaphragm. Such regulators are noncontaminating and assure satisfactory use for all applications of noncorrosive and mildly corrosive gases. Regulators for corrosive gases must be selected from those recommended with each gas listing.

A gas regulator equipped with a stainless steel diaphragm has several advantages over the elastomeric type. It does not outgas organic materials and it also prevents the diffusion of atmospheric oxygen into the carrier gas. Both Buna-N and Neoprene diaphragms are permeable to oxygen. The chemical potential of oxygen between the carrier gas and the atmosphere provides sufficient driving force for oxygen to intrude the carrier gas through a permeable diaphragm.
*
Materials of Construction Summary*

The intended gas service for which the gas regulator is used must be compatible with the materials of construction that come in contact with the gas stream. The wetted materials must be compatible with the gas composition._

Hopefully we can get a discussion going and find out more on this topic.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> Thermadyne doesn't recommend it for liability issues plus it will void the warranty if the stock nut and nipple is replaced for a CGA-320. Several welding supply vendors do not recommend doing this either for the same issues. When I got my first specialty regulator, a HPT272-40-350-4M (previously used with Hydrogen), I asked my local Victor dealer about swapping out the CGA-350 fitting for a CGA-320 fitting. He told me that sometimes remnant traces of the gas can get trapped between the internal parts of the regulator. Gas can also be trapped in the surface pores of various internal parts. This "old" gas may then be expelled when the CO2 is passing through. High purity regulators with stainless steel diaphragms have a much less chance of this happening.
> 
> The following is from: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-20.html#post743710
> 
> _*REGULATOR SELECTION (MATERIALS)*
> 
> *General Gas Use*
> 
> The selection of the proper gas regulator involves many factors including body and internal materials of construction. For general use, regulators of brass construction with elastomeric diaphragms will give good service in noncorrosive service where slight contamination or diffusion from an elastomeric diaphragm is not important. Brass regulators with stainless steel diaphragms prevent air diffusion and adsorption of gases on the diaphragm. This is particularly important with low concentration mixtures of hydrocarbons in which the trace component may be adsorbed on the elastomeric diaphragm.
> 
> The gas regulator must be constructed using materials suited to the application. Industrial general purpose regulators are often constructed with either Buna-N or Neoprene diaphragms. Regulators with Buna-N or Neoprene diaphragms are not suitable for GC analysis that can be affected by the diffusion of atmospheric oxygen through the elastomer diaphragm or the outgassing of monomers and dimers from the elastomer. In fact, laboratories that perform temperature programmed analysis are faced with excessive baseline drift and large unresolved peaks due to this diffusion and outgassing.
> 
> *High-Purity Gas Service*
> 
> The ideal construction for high-purity gas service is a gas regulator that has a stainless steel diaphragm. Such regulators are noncontaminating and assure satisfactory use for all applications of noncorrosive and mildly corrosive gases. Regulators for corrosive gases must be selected from those recommended with each gas listing.
> 
> A gas regulator equipped with a stainless steel diaphragm has several advantages over the elastomeric type. It does not outgas organic materials and it also prevents the diffusion of atmospheric oxygen into the carrier gas. Both Buna-N and Neoprene diaphragms are permeable to oxygen. The chemical potential of oxygen between the carrier gas and the atmosphere provides sufficient driving force for oxygen to intrude the carrier gas through a permeable diaphragm.
> *
> Materials of Construction Summary*
> 
> The intended gas service for which the gas regulator is used must be compatible with the materials of construction that come in contact with the gas stream. The wetted materials must be compatible with the gas composition._
> 
> Hopefully we can get a discussion going and find out more on this topic.


Nice info and a good future reference, Left C.:thumbsup:


----------



## VisionQuest28

herns said:


> Nice info and a good future reference, Left C.:thumbsup:


agreed X2. I decided not to go with this regulator anyway, but im glad to have that info. Im trying to sell a light fixture in the swap n shop (that i was trying to trade for CO2 and wasnt having any luck) to use the money to get a nice new Vic from Orlando.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> Here are some more tips, herns.- I'd go with a nice looking 20# cylinder and not have it in your stand. That new and shiny Concoa regulator sure could be a show piece


Hi Left C,

Thats what Im thinking. 
I like that rigid plastic handle of that 10lbs or 20lbs. I might go for #20 and place it outside the stand. The space under my tank is really tight even if I get 2.5 lbs, plus the regulator, it would not fit even tilted.


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Hi Left C,
> 
> That's what I'm thinking.
> 
> I like that rigid plastic handle of that 10lbs or 20lbs. I might go for #20 and place it outside the stand. The space under my tank is really tight even if I get 2.5 lbs, plus the regulator, it would not fit even tilted.


You are right. These heavy Victor, Concoa, Matheson, etc. regulators are somewhat heavy and they can easily topple a 2.5# or 5# aluminum CO2 cylinder and maybe a 5# steel cylinder.

Either an aluminum 20# cylinder or a 20# steel cylinder won't topple over. Plus, it costs basically the same to refill it as the other sizes.

I don't have a 10# cylinder for comparison, though.


----------



## MoparMuscl

Left C said:


> You are right. These heavy Victor, Concoa, Matheson, etc. regulators are somewhat heavy and they can easily topple a 2.5# or 5# aluminum CO2 cylinder and maybe a 5# steel cylinder.
> 
> Either an aluminum 20# cylinder or a 20# steel cylinder won't topple over. Plus, it costs basically the same to refill it as the other sizes.
> 
> I don't have a 10# cylinder for comparison, though.


My 10lb aluminum is holding my regulator setup right now with out any problems. We will see when it gets closer to empty.


----------



## herns

Darkblade48 said:


> Keep in mind that you have to take the height of the cylinder and the regulator into consideration (the regulator will often add a few inches of height).


Thanks for your input.


----------



## michu

Left C, your inbox is full again. I sent you a pm to rave about the NV that arrived today, but it won't send.


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> Left C, your inbox is full again. I sent you a pm to rave about the NV that arrived today, but it won't send.


It's clear now. My inbox got bombed.


----------



## Left C

What paints would you use to paint the brass parts on a JBJ bubble counter so that it is a "silvery" color somewhat like either stainless steel, aluminum, chrome or nickel?

*Primer*

Rust-Oleum® Self Etching Primer - COLOR: 249322 - Self-Etching Primer

or

Rust-Oleum® Filler Primer - COLOR: 249279 - Filler Primer Gray



*Top Coat*

Rust-Oleum® Craft & Hobby Enamel Spray - COLOR: 209678 - Silver

or

Rust-Oleum® Metallic - COLOR: 248652 - Metallic Chrome


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> What paints would you use to paint the brass parts on a JBJ bubble counter so that it is a "silvery" color somewhat like either stainless steel, aluminum, chrome or nickel?
> 
> *Primer*
> 
> Rust-Oleum® Self Etching Primer - COLOR: 249322 - Self-Etching Primer
> 
> or
> 
> Rust-Oleum® Filler Primer - COLOR: 249279 - Filler Primer Gray
> 
> 
> 
> *Top Coat*
> 
> Rust-Oleum® Craft & Hobby Enamel Spray - COLOR: 209678 - Silver
> 
> or
> 
> Rust-Oleum® Metallic - COLOR: 248652 - Metallic Chrome


There's one far east seller in Ebay that sells a bc at lesser price that really looks like JBJ brand bubble counter.:icon_eek:


----------



## Left C

Gosh! We have over 30,000 views.


----------



## Jeff5614

This looks like a good deal on a new two stage Victor, you can even make a lower offer. Just needs a cga320 nipple added. Item number 270419939962 on Ebay.


----------



## michu

With that horrible feedback, you might can offer way less... Provided she responds... Appears that she has communication issues.


----------



## herns

Jeff5614 said:


> This looks like a good deal on a new two stage Victor, you can even make a lower offer. Just needs a cga320 nipple added. Item number 270419939962 on Ebay.


Be careful. 96.2% is a very bad feedback score.I would not make transaction with him.
But if you still chose to buy it, your purchased will be protected by Paypal. It would take at least a month though to get your money back.


----------



## Jeff5614

herns said:


> Be careful. 96.2% is a very bad feedback score.I would not make transaction with him.
> But if you still chose to buy it, your purchased will be protected by Paypal. It would take at least a month though to get your money back.


Oops, didn't notice that. Did I mention I found it at 4am? lol


----------



## Jeff5614

Here's a pic of my new regulator. Victor VTS250C with an Ideal needle valve.


----------



## zzyzx85

^very nice setup.

I'm approaching 5 months on my 5lb tank with victor regulator. the tank's pressure gauge has finally moved below 500psi, which means I should be getting it refilled sometime next week?


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

*goodbye red sea pos bio system*

hello pimps, i spent my independence weekend researching co2 injection which revolved heavily around this thread. i've got a post asking questions about my new set up. will move my commentary from that thread into this thread once my auctions win and my items come in. 

1. swagelok SS-SS4-EPVH precision 1/4" metering valve *new
2. HPT 270C-250 victor regulator *used previously with oxygen

planning to buy the clippard solenoid and get cal labs in line bubble counter. need to research the in-line vs at-unit bubble counter some more. thanks for all the info in this thread! :thumbsup:


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

sooo, my current dilemma is... i order a 1/4" metering valve and the solenoid goes between the metering valve and the regulator and all the solenoids i'm seeing are 1/8". do i hunt for the 1/4" solenoid, scale-up then scale-down my fittings, and/or will i run into trouble getting 1/8" co2 airline at the end of the line because of the 1/4" metering valve. I may just opt out of the solenoid due to my ph being almost 9.0 (already using driftwood and peat to lower ph) and i really want to house schrimpfs.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Left C said:


> Are there anymore comments or thoughts about anyone with either a Victor and/or dual stage regulator being this club?
> 
> How should we name a sub-club? "Victor and Dual Stage Pimp Club"??? The original members with Victor regulators and anyone that uses a Victor regulator in the future will simply be in the "Victor Pimp Club". OK ??? Please, let me know.
> 
> Wouldn't your member number be based on the order that you posted to be included like we have been doing?
> 
> Thanks,
> Left C



Maybe its too late since this was brought up, but i'd be more than proud to say i was a member of *"the regulators"*. its got an urban street vibe aquarists don't usually get in their lives.


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> Maybe its too late since this was brought up, but i'd be more than proud to say i was a member of *"the regulators"*. its got an urban street vibe aquarists don't usually get in their lives.


There are single stage and two (dual) stage regulators. I believe that there should be a differentiation.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

the ds regs
the re-regulators
the dub club
the 2s regs

reg⋅u⋅late  [reg-yuh-leyt]
–verb (used with object), -lat⋅ed, -lat⋅ing.
1.to control or direct by a rule, principle, method, etc.:

isn't this what pimps do?


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> sooo, my current dilemma is... i order a 1/4" metering valve and the solenoid goes between the metering valve and the regulator and all the solenoids i'm seeing are 1/8". do i hunt for the 1/4" solenoid, scale-up then scale-down my fittings, and/or will i run into trouble getting 1/8" co2 airline at the end of the line because of the 1/4" metering valve. I may just opt out of the solenoid due to my ph being almost 9.0 (already using driftwood and peat to lower ph) and i really want to house schrimpfs.


:bounce:BUMP!!!

my regulator and metering valve come in soon. i contacted my local swagelok dealer. what do i do?


----------



## Darkblade48

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> sooo, my current dilemma is... i order a 1/4" metering valve and the solenoid goes between the metering valve and the regulator and all the solenoids i'm seeing are 1/8".


There definitely are 1/4" solenoids, I know that Clippard makes one, but their website seems to be down right now, so I can't provide you with a product number.



SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> do i hunt for the 1/4" solenoid, scale-up then scale-down my fittings


No need to scale up and then scale down your fittings. Your regulator is 1/4". If you find a 1/4" solenoid, then you will need a male to male nipple for the regulator to the solenoid. Then you will need another 1/4" male to male nipple for the connection between the solenoid and the needle valve. Finally, you will need a 1/4" to hose barb nipple for your CO2 tubing (which usually is 3/16", I believe).

Do note that from your previous posts, the needle valve you got has Swagelok tube fittings (proprietary fittings), so you will need the appropriate NPT or hose barb adapters. 

If you use a 1/8" solenoid, you will need a 1/4" to 1/8" male to male nipple for the connection between the regulator and solenoid. Then, you will need another 1/4" to 1/8" male to male nipple for the solenoid to the metering valve.



SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> and/or will i run into trouble getting 1/8" co2 airline at the end of the line because of the 1/4" metering valve.


I'm not sure what you are asking here; as mentioned, you need a 1/4" Swagelok tube fitting to hose barb adapter to go from your metering valve to your CO2 tubing.



SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> I may just opt out of the solenoid due to my ph being almost 9.0 (already using driftwood and peat to lower ph) and i really want to house schrimpfs.


Using a solenoid is optional, but it does allow you to keep your CO2 on a timer and/or a pH controller (if you should want to use one). A solenoid also helps conserve a little bit of CO2 (as you won't need it at night).

Be careful with CO2 and shrimp; some species can be quite sensitive and can die from an accidental CO2 gassing.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Darkblade48 said:


> I'm not sure what you are asking here.


Its probably a dumb question. I was worried if i scale down and then scale up the fitting after the regulator it would screw up the pressures controlled by the regulator. I can avoid this with the 1/4" solenoid, if its a problem at all. My local swagelok rep is going to coach me through the proprietary fittings and she says they have some solenoids as well.



Darkblade48 said:


> Be careful with CO2 and shrimp; some species can be quite sensitive and can die from an accidental CO2 gassing.


dual stage regulator ftw!!


----------



## dizguy

You have no problems with regard to the pressure changes when scaling down and then up. The flow is not high enough for that to be a problem.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

dizguy said:


> You have no problems with regard to the pressure changes when scaling down and then up. The flow is not high enough for that to be a problem.


that is what i figured.


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> sooo, my current dilemma is... i order a 1/4" metering valve and the solenoid goes between the metering valve and the regulator and all the solenoids i'm seeing are 1/8". do i hunt for the 1/4" solenoid, scale-up then scale-down my fittings, and/or will i run into trouble getting 1/8" co2 airline at the end of the line because of the 1/4" metering valve. I may just opt out of the solenoid due to my ph being almost 9.0 (already using driftwood and peat to lower ph) and i really want to house schrimpfs.


Hi SPECIAL||PLANS

Have you found the Swagelok 1/4" tubing to 1/8" NPT adapters for your metering valve? They are available in brass or stainless steel and male or female NPT.
brass male: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=B-4-TA-1-2
SS male: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-4-TA-1-2
brass female: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=B-4-TA-7-2
SS female: http://www.swagelok.com/search/product_detail.aspx?part=SS-4-TA-7-2


----------



## j-gens

i just got a 1/4" solenoid from clippardheres the part number from my receipt 

MME-2QDS-D110 valve, solenoid; 1/4" NPT direct acting $19.70


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Left C said:


> Have you found the Swagelok 1/4" tubing to 1/8" NPT adapters for your metering valve? They are available in brass or stainless steel and male or female NPT.


thanks left c! the stainless are definitely the ones i'll need. its looking like i'll take a sick day so i can go hunt down all these parts in my area. i'm surprised the amount of people i've seen who have been combining brass with stainless steel. mixing metals like that is an easy way to get corroded connections.



j-gens said:


> i just got a 1/4" solenoid from clippardheres the part number from my receipt: MME-2QDS-D110 valve, solenoid; 1/4" NPT direct acting $19.70


thanks. i will see if my local distributor has this one, although she tells me that the ones they carry may be out of my price range, and she hasnt even met me. pfft.


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> thanks left c! the stainless are definitely the ones i'll need. its looking like i'll take a sick day so i can go hunt down all these parts in my area. i'm surprised the amount of people i've seen who have been combining brass with stainless steel. mixing metals like that is an easy way to get corroded connections. ...


Swagelok has a Video showing how to use these fittings. There is also more info about these fittings on their site.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

aw yeah pimp what!










yes those are silk sheets on my bed covered in dolla dolla bills :icon_surp. Seriously though, I thought I should post what I got in the mail today.

victor dual stage regulator
HPT-270C-250
max inlet 3000 psig
cga 580 fitting as is (inert gas?)
and it has some calibration stickers on it from being tested recently

once i get the metering valve in the mail i'll take left c's recommended fitting to my local swagelok rep for a breakdown. hopefully it doesnt cost me all the money in the picture :icon_eek:


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> ... victor dual stage regulator
> HPT-270C-250
> max inlet 3000 psig
> cga 580 fitting as is (inert gas?)
> and it has some calibration stickers on it from being tested recently
> 
> once i get the metering valve in the mail i'll take left c's recommended fitting to my local swagelok rep for a breakdown. hopefully it doesnt cost me all the money in the picture :icon_eek:


That's a nice looking regulator! I don't have that particular model.

I suppose you know that you need other fittings too. Those aren't all you need.

Here is a listing for brass and SS parts that may be helpful. If you have any trouble, let me know and I will help you. I'll need to know if you are going to use a 1/8" or 1/4" solenoid and what type of bubble counter are you going to use.


----------



## Left C

Here is a new Swagelok SS Metering Valve w/ Vernier Scale 1/8" Tube, Item number: 280369570006


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Left C said:


> That's a nice looking regulator!


Thanks! :biggrin:

I haven't been this excited about something since the moments leading up to my first/last one night stand. :icon_wink hopefully this project will turn out better <don't ask>.

I plan on using an inline bubble counter until I upgrade to a large size tank. Right now I've got 3 months power filter inserts to use and no money for a BA canister. I'm assuming everything will be easy until I get to the metering valve. After the metering valve I assume I need (piece 1) some kind of 1/4" to 1/8" fitting, (piece 2) some kind of hose bard, (piece 3) co2 rated hose, (piece 4) and then a check valve, (piece 5) the bubble counter, (piece 6) and another check valve, (piece 7) more hose, (piece 8) one of those fancy glass/ceramic diffuser devices?


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> Thanks! :biggrin:
> 
> I haven't been this excited about something since the moments leading up to my first/last one night stand. :icon_wink hopefully this project will turn out better <don't ask>.
> 
> I plan on using an inline bubble counter until I upgrade to a large size tank. Right now I've got 3 months power filter inserts to use and no money for a BA canister. I'm assuming everything will be easy until I get to the metering valve. After the metering valve I assume I need (piece 1) some kind of 1/4" to 1/8" fitting, (piece 2) some kind of hose bard, (piece 3) co2 rated hose, (piece 4) and then a check valve, (piece 5) the bubble counter, (piece 6) and another check valve, (piece 7) more hose, (piece 8) one of those fancy glass/ceramic diffuser devices?


You may want to use an elbow and also are you going to use a 1/4" or 1/8" solenoid?


----------



## Darkblade48

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> After the metering valve I assume I need (piece 1) some kind of 1/4" to 1/8" fitting, (piece 2) some kind of hose bard, (piece 3) co2 rated hose, (piece 4) and then a check valve, (piece 5) the bubble counter, (piece 6) and another check valve, (piece 7) more hose, (piece 8) one of those fancy glass/ceramic diffuser devices?


You can go straight from the 1/4" to a hose barb, if you can find one. Other than that, everything looks good.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Left C said:


> You may want to use an elbow and also are you going to use a 1/4" or 1/8" solenoid?


1/4" solenoid is my assumption. I'm assuming your recommending an elbow at the end of the system so i can get my metering valve to turn upright for use with a bubble counter. That is most likely the plan, although I don't have any kind of storage for all my aquarium stuff. Everything is lying on the floor next to my bed and computer desk (something I will address on my next tank size upgrade).



Darkblade48 said:


> You can go straight from the 1/4" to a hose barb, if you can find one. Other than that, everything looks good.


Will definitely ask my local pipe distributor if this is an option. The less pieces the happier I'll be. Thanks for the tip <thats what she said>.


----------



## Darkblade48

The elbow that Left C mentioned would be if you wanted to use a bubble counter that would be attached to the regulator body (such as the JBJ counter). Since your metering valve is a straight through and not an elbow (correct me if I am wrong), the 90 degree bend is required to position the bubble counter in a position perpendicular to the ground.


----------



## Left C

What DarkBlade mentioned is what I had in mind. I believe that your exhaust port on your HPT272 regulator is at the 9 o'clock position. An elbow may give you more room by having the metering valve pointed downwards instead of having all the parts being mounted straight out (waiting to be broke off . Do note that the elbow can be mounted in any position around its 360 degree axis; that you may find a better position for your space use around your regulator area . 

Many regulators' exhaust ports are at the 7 o'clock position allowing angle designed needle/metering valves to be mounted in such a way that a JBJ type bubble counter can be mounted in a straight up position.

Usually the elbow is mounted very near the regulator, but you are able to mount it anywhere at your discretion.

Below is an 1/4" MPT elbow. 
Ordering #: SS-4-ME
Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/4 in. Male NPT
Price: USD 14.05

Swagelok doesn't have an 1/8" MPT elbow (unless it is missing on their site). Their elbow with a 1/8" fitting that is listed is female. They are more expensive and they could require more parts to build your regulator.
Ordering #: SS-4-RSE-2
Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Reducing Street Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT
Price: USD 21.43


----------



## Jeff5614

LeftC, I was so excited over posting a pic of my new reg in my previous post that I forgot to say sign me up to the club.



Jeff5614 said:


> Here's a pic of my new regulator. Victor VTS250C with an Ideal needle valve.


----------



## Left C

Jeff5614 said:


> LeftC, I was so excited over posting a pic of my new reg in my previous post that I forgot to say sign me up to the club.


That is a really nice one. I have a D model rigged the same way and I really like it.

I have you included with the list of members. See the next post, #42.


----------



## Left C

*VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*

#1 - Left C
#2 - fordtrannyman
#3 - Mishmosh
#4 - bsmith782
#5 - lescarpentier
#6 - delevan
#7 - Squawkbert
#8 - c_sking
#9 - SpeedEuphoria
#10 - DaveT
#11 - Ackdog
#12 - eric_c
#13 - Captain Hooked
#14 - Bugman
#15 - zzyzx85
#16 - adstudio3d
#17 - mnellis3023
#18 - DataLifePlus
#19 - cheefunk
#20 - manofmanyfish
#21 - cwilfinger
#22 - plantfreak108
#23 - herns
#24 - rrrrramos
#25 - james0816
#26 - wuhungsix
#27 - Complexity
#28 - asil
#29 - helgymatt
#30 - lizziotti 
#31 - MarkMc 
#32 - tazdevil
#33 - Darkblade48
#34 - sunfire99
#35 - mrkookm
#36 - PRESTON4479
#37 - lovingHDTV
#38 - Homer_ Simpson
#39 - bgzbgz
#40 - wondabread
#41 - SPECIAL||PLANS
#42 - Jeff5614
#43 - VisionQuest28 
#44 - j-gens
#45 - kali
#46 - smoq
#47 - lushlife
#48 - SvenBoogie
#49 - clwatkins
#50 - rich815
#51 - michu
#52 - sebdtw
#53 - Epitaph
#54 - Solid
#55 - babakaty
#56 - AquaLung
#57 - markopolo
#58 - bradac56
#59 - S&KGray
#60 - eiginh


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

*oh how my brain hurts*

i did not anticipate how complicated all the connections would be. everything that comes between the solenoid and the diffuser is bananas to me. here is my current knowns vs unknowns in diagram. hopefully we can fill in a few more gaps before i go talk to my local distributor of these parts.










and i just realized i forgot the arrows for my labels.. uggh. :angryfire


----------



## VisionQuest28

I have been sitting on a Vic regulator for a week or 2 now, still gathering all my parts. Only pieces of equipment i still need are a bubble counter and the co2 cylinder, plus the various fittings...then im in business. I guess im just announcing my future plan of being a vic pimp... just waiting till i actually have it up and running.


----------



## herns

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> i did not anticipate how complicated all the connections would be. everything that comes between the solenoid and the diffuser is bananas to me. here is my current knowns vs unknowns in diagram. hopefully we can fill in a few more gaps before i go talk to my local distributor of these parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and i just realized i forgot the arrows for my labels.. uggh. :angryfire


This is a nice reference. Can you re-post with arrows? There are three "No.1" bubbles and the rest of the numbers are floating nowhere.:icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> This is a nice reference. Can you re-post with arrows? There are three "No.1" bubbles and the rest of the numbers are floating nowhere.:icon_lol:


This is a nice drawing, but there is one more correction that needs to be made.

The positions of the metering valve and solenoid should be reversed. The solenoid goes between the regulator and the needle/metering valve and not vice versa. I've always read that the needle/metering valve may be damaged from the pressure if it is mounted this way.


----------



## Left C

VisionQuest28 said:


> I have been sitting on a Vic regulator for a week or 2 now, still gathering all my parts. Only pieces of equipment i still need are a bubble counter and the co2 cylinder, plus the various fittings...then im in business. I guess im just announcing my future plan of being a vic pimp... just waiting till i actually have it up and running.


If you are the next one to join, you will be #43. That is Richard Petty's old number. :wink:


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

I revised the drawing and sent it to the fine folks at GLA for input/parts. Will also be taking information to my local swagelok rep to see about parts/etc. These are the questions I asked GLA:

1. I will need to go from the swagelok 1/4" tube fitting to your GLA co2 rated hose through the use of a hose bard. What size is your co2 hose interior dimension?

2. Do you buy chance have any 1/4" solenoids to sell or recommend?

3. When I upgrade to a larger tank I plan to make use of an in-line reactor. Can I use the same glass bubble counter hooked in-line to an in-tank diffuser with an in-line reactor? And if so, does the reactor come after the bubble counter, before the bubble counter, or is the bubble counter not required at all? Or, could I purchase one of the JBJ style bubble counters from your store and use that instead of the glass bubble counter? And, with the JBJ counter (brass) what would be the recommended connection to my all stainless system?

4. Would it possible to incorporate a flexible braided hose into the CO2 system for easy connection to the CO2 cylinder? Do you sell any such products?

Will report results.


----------



## plantbrain

What?
I'm not on the club?
I've had a Victor reg for the last 18 years
Every reg I own is a Victor.


Regards, 
Tom Barr


----------



## kali

hey left c
whats the difference between this one and your ...same product # 31299 but this one with PTFE ( dont even know what that mean ) not taflon tape..


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> hey left c
> whats the difference between this one and your ...same product # 31299 but this one with PTFE ( dont even know what that mean ) not taflon tape..


Hi Kali

PTFE is a form of Teflon. Just guessing, the Teflon may have been manufactured in a different factory than the PTFE. One factory used PTFE and the other used Teflon. My Teflon version is made in the USA. Where is yours manufactured? Or they could of been two different production runs at the same plant or different plants.

We should be able to use both products since they have the same part number. I don't see any reason why we couldn't.


----------



## Left C

*Swagelok Stainless Steel 1/4" and 1/8" Pipe Fittings Post #1* 



Ripe Reducers

SS-4-HRN-2 Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $6.15









SS-4-RB-2 Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $5.74









SS-4-RA-2 Reducing Adapter, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $8.92











Pipe Elbows

SS-2-E Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $15.99
SS-4-E Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT Price: $18.56









SS-2-ME Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $13.33
SS-4-ME Male Elbow, 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $14.05









SS-2-SE Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $16.40
SS-4-RSE-2 Reducing Street Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $21.43
SS-4-SE Street Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $18.56


----------



## Left C

*Swagelok Stainless Steel 1/4" and 1/8" Pipe Fittings Post #2*



Nipples

SS-4-CN Close Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $5.64
SS-2-CN Close Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.10









SS-4-HLN-1.50 Hex Long Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT, 1 1/2 in. Length Price: $6.77
SS-4-HLN-2.00 Hex Long Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT, 2 in. Length Price: $8.51
SS-2-HLN-1.50 Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1 1/2 in. Length Price: $7.69
SS-2-HLN-2.00 Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 2 in. Length Price: $8.20









SS-4-HN Hex Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $6.05
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.72


----------



## Left C

*Swagelok Stainless Steel 1/4" and 1/8" Pipe Fittings Post #3*



Tubing Adapters

SS-4-TA-1-4 Male Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $6.05
SS-2-TA-1-2 Male Tube Adapter, 1/8 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $6.26
SS-4-TA-1-2 Male Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $5.54
SS-2-TA-1-4 Male Tube Adapter, 1/8 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $7.08









SS-4-TA-7-4 Female Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. Female NPT Price: $9.64
SS-2-TA-7-2 Female Tube Adapter, 1/8 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $7.69
SS-4-TA-7-2 Female Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $7.90
SS-2-TA-7-4 Female Tube Adapter, 1/8 in. Tube OD x 1/4 in. Female NPT Price: $9.02


----------



## Left C

*Swagelok Stainless Steel 1/4" and 1/8" Pipe Fittings Post #4*


Barbed Hose (Tubing) Fittings


SS-2-HC-1-2 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: $5.64
SS-2-HC-1-4 1/4 in. Male NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: $8.61









SS-2-HC-7-2 1/8 in. Female NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: $12.71
SS-2-HC-7-4 1/4 in. Female NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: $14.35


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

*racking my brain..*

I believe i've got it all figure out now minus the solenoid. trying to find the right thing on ebay.

1/4" female NPT fittings
2/2-way Normally Closed
direct acting?

I found this on ebay but it looks left over from the Great War:

http://cgi.ebay.com/KONAN-Solenoid-Valve-120V-150-PSI-NC-1-4-Port-Size_W0QQitemZ370216389624QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item56329dcbf8&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Any ideas on the solenoid spec?


----------



## Left C

Just might be better off going to Clippard or Burkert for a solenoid. You can easily come up with a collection of parts using a 1/8" solenoid and not worry about getting a 1/4" solenoid that we rarely use.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

so this is what i'm taking to the swagelok rep to explain the project:










can i just order the solenoid stuff from the clippard site? i talked to an engineer friend and he thinks the clippard solenoid will need some kind of transformer or something to stop the wall outlet from frying the solenoid. anyone know what he is talking about?


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> ... can i just order the solenoid stuff from the clippard site? i talked to an engineer friend and he thinks the clippard solenoid will need some kind of transformer or something to stop the wall outlet from frying the solenoid. anyone know what he is talking about?


Lookin' very good!

BTY, he doesn't know what he is talking about concerning the Clippard solenoids. Pay no attention to that rubbish. You need the one for 110v.

The parts from #9 forward should be used with 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD CO2 tubing. You need to have a 1/8" OD barbed connectors for the CO2 tubing. Check valves are for 1/8" ID tubing too. Your BC and diffuser use 1/8" ID tubing.

You can delete #12.

The part in red is the pressure relief valve. You don't have to modify it in any way. Leave it stock.

You can get the CO2 tubing, solenoid, check valves and barbs from Clippard. There is a list of Clippard parts in the Victor thread. There is also a DIN connector part number listed for the solenoid if you don't want to wire it. It isn't necessary because it is easy to wire yourself.

*What drawing software are you using? That's terrific!!*

*PS: Clippard stuff:*

*Solenoid (You will need to purchase a grounded power cord separately)*
1/8" FPT: Part # MME-2PDS-D110 - $19.70 ea. 
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110
or
1/4" FPT: Part # MME-2PQS-D110 - $19.70 ea.
http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2QDS-D110

If you do not want to wire your Solenoid, you can order the above solenoid and then order either the 6’ or 15’ DIN connector with a grounded power cord and LED so you can replace the stock DIN connector and Led.
*DIN connector with 6’ (152 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P6 - $13.00 each
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P6

*DIN connector with 15’ (381 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P15 - $22.00
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P15

*Check Valve Parts*
*Check Valve* Part # MCV-1BB - $4.71 ea. 
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MCV-1BB

You can order either of these styles of these Hose Barbs. Clippard recommends the first one, but either will work. The second one is the one that we see most often.
*Hose Barbs* Part # 11752–4-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10 - you need two hose barbs per check valve
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-4-PKG
*Hose Barbs* Part # 11752–1-PKG - $4.50 / package of 10 - you need two hose barbs per check valve
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11752-1-PKG

*1/4" OD x 1/8" ID Clear CO2 Proof Tubing 50 ft.*
Part # URH1-0804-CLT-050 - $20.06 ea.
http://www.clippard.com/store/byo_tubing/?sku=URH1-0804-CLT-050

*1/4” male NPT x 1/8” female NPT reducer bushing*
Part # 4CQN-BLK - $1.03 ea
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=4CQN-BLK

*1/8” Barb x 1/8” male NPT barb to pipe fitting*
Part # 2CP4 – BLK - $0.70 ea
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=2CP4-BLK
and
Part # 11924-1-BLK - $0.48
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=11924-1-BLK


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

wow, i can't believe how many errors there are in the image. i made that with photoshop. and yeah, i'm going to research the clippard parts and see about ordering from there site. i talked to orlando at GLA through email and he told me the co2 hose they sell is 1/4" inside dimension?!? will get to the bottom of that too.

thanks for the feedback LC. i need to go back through the thread and delete all the excess images when this thing is finished.


----------



## Left C

You might of misinterpreted/misunderstood the comments. CO2 tubing is made in a gaggle of tubing sizes, but what most of us use is 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD.


----------



## Left C

Photostop! You use it well!!


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Left C said:


> Photostop! You use it well!!


thanks! god knows i get enough practice.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

met with the swagelok distributing company in my area and talked to some of the engineers working there. needless to say they had some amazing ideas how to better stabilize our co2 injection set-ups. very, very, very expensive. like $2500 for a smarter version of what we use. anyway, it took 2 hours and i left spending $30 on 3 fittings, 1 more to be received in the mail, the part number and name of a guy to contact at the same place i'll get my co2 tank filled/purchased at, and some general advice on the solenoid.

for anyone curious, the solenoid needs to be a 2-way, direct-acting, Normally Closed, 120v component. other voltages will work but can require different ways of plugging it in. i'm going to order the 1/4" version of the clippard one recommended by practically everyone here at plantedtank.net. Will post again when all my stuff comes in and i either A) run into a wall that is my own short-comings as a man trying to set up this apparatus, or B) successfully assemble and install the full set-up into my aquarium (which will be followed by everyone slamming me for having such a fugly tank). looking forward to the shame.


----------



## Darkblade48

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> for anyone curious, the solenoid needs to be a 2-way, direct-acting, Normally Closed, 120v component.


Yes, this the standard solenoid that is used in CO2 setups. I believe this was mentioned somewhere near the beginning of this thread.



SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> i'm going to order the 1/4" version of the clippard one recommended by practically everyone here at plantedtank.net


Be aware that Clippard solenoids do get quite hot, sometimes to the point where you cannot put your hand on the solenoid for more than a few seconds. This is normal.


----------



## Left C

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> ... for anyone curious, the solenoid needs to be a 2-way, direct-acting, Normally Closed, 120v component. other voltages will work but can require different ways of plugging it in. i'm going to order the 1/4" version of the clippard one recommended by practically everyone here at plantedtank.net. ...


You've mentioned some concern about the Clippard solenoids being warm several times. I don't have a problem with it though. You may want to try a Burkert solenoid. I have one and it works fine, but it is more expensive than the Clippard model. I like the Clippard solenoid better than the Burkert because the Clippard has a red LED that comes on when the solenoid is on. The Burkert doesn't have this feature.

Burkert makes a bizillion models of solenoids, but you know what to look for. They have models trimmed in brass and some trimmed in stainless steel. The SS solenoids are only a little bit more expensive.

You can contact Valin at www.ValinOnline.com concerning the Burkert solenoids. You can call them toll free at 1-877-442-4422 or send an email to [email protected].

If you set up an account with them; you can shop at http://www.valinonline.com. Their online catalog is packed with detailed information on thousands of pressure gauges, pressure switches, temperature switches, thermometers, and more! Plus, they offer same day shipping for all stocked item orders placed before 4:00pm PST.


----------



## j-gens

i want to join the club!!!

i have 3 stainless regs... 2 hpt270 and 1 l-tec medical gas regulator
the setup that is built minus the co2 tank which is being delivered right now is a 
regulator - hpt 270-40-320-DK $25.00
solenoid valve - clippard 1/4" $20
metering valve - SS-4BMG-VCR FREE
new aluminum 10# tank $85.00 shipped
cal aqua double bubble counter
cal aqua double check drop checker
watching people drool when they see the setup? priceless


will post a pic of the setup once i get my tank delivered and filled
the metering valve is my favorite part as long as it works... ideally i should be able to dial it to the number i want and be able to replicate that any time if things get messed up with a quick and easy set to the number that i had it at


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

already ordered my solenoid from clippard. pretty shaddy $10 "handling" fee, which i assume is the cost per time lost on their end spent rofling that i actually was willing to pay the "handling" fee.


----------



## j-gens

you could have found a dealer near you and those extra fees wouldnt be there. Thats what i did.. i looked up a parker store close to me and got my solenoid from them


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

yep. one of the sales reps called me today and asked me about getting a catalog. pretty shocking. aw well, i'll blame it on there website not being user friendly.


----------



## michu

I finally got mine setup today and all seems to be running well. I'm THRILLED to get that milwaukee mess off my tank. :biggrin:


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

nice. congrats


----------



## michu

I am simply thrilled. I cannot believe the difference it made and don't really understand why. The pearling I now have is unbelievable. I didn't expect any pearling because I'm running one light at a time due to two of my ballasts dying and Coralife sending the wrong replacement ballasts. With the old setup, and dumping tons of CO2 in, I had no pearling with 1 light. Now I have just huge bubbles on all of my plants, even in the 2/3 of the tank that isn't lit. I thought I was actually running less CO2, but surely I must be running more? I also got a new BC that has larger bubbles that I set to a lower rate to account for the size. Why on earth would this setup cause my plants to pearl so beautifully when the other did not (just teeny O2 bubbles and zero with only one light running)?

And.... I have not had to adjust the NV once. Life is good.


----------



## Jeff5614

With the larger bubbles you may have more CO2 going into the tank than with your old setup even though you now have a lower bubble count. I'd also think with your old setup being inconsistent there could have been times when the bubble count dropped off and you didn't notice it and then again you could have had a leak in your old one also.


----------



## michu

Evidently. I love the new BC and am now an advocate of ideal needle valves. That baby is sweet!


----------



## Jeff5614

I know what you mean. I went from a Clippard valve to an Ideal and they don't compare.


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> I am simply thrilled. I cannot believe the difference it made and don't really understand why. The pearling I now have is unbelievable. ... Why on earth would this setup cause my plants to pearl so beautifully when the other did not (just teeny O2 bubbles and zero with only one light running)?
> 
> And.... I have not had to adjust the NV once. Life is good.


The Victor regulator and Ideal valve are what made the difference. Consistency!! The O2:CO2 ratio is higher and it is staying that way.***

Those Ideal valves are sweet. After you set them, you don't have to touch them unless you want to change the setting.

***I suppose that you know that I made the above comments up.  

I'm very glad that it is working so well for you! roud:


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> Evidently. I love the new BC and am now an advocate of ideal needle valves. That baby is sweet!


Are you going to sell your other NV? I'll buy it. I think that you got an AM. Did it not hold enough liquid?

PS: My internet provider (ClearWire) is down until Monday. I'm getting interference from something that is blocking the signal. A technician will be coming to check it out. I'm at the public library right now. My contact will be spotty until it is resolved.


----------



## Left C

j-gens said:


> i want to join the club!!! ...


Sweet set-up!

I'm glad that you want to join. You are #44. :icon_bigg


----------



## michu

Left C said:


> Are you going to sell your other NV? I'll buy it. I think that you got an AM. Did it not hold enough liquid?
> 
> PS: My internet provider (ClearWire) is down until Monday. I'm getting interference from something that is blocking the signal. A technician will be coming to check it out. I'm at the public library right now. My contact will be spotty until it is resolved.


Left C, I wouldn't sell that NV to my worst enemy. I returned the entire setup as defective... because it was. I wouldn't GIVE it to my worst enemy. The thing was a nightmare.

Sorry to hear about your ISP. I hope they get it sorted out for you.

It has now been 24 hours and the Victor/ideal is pumping out the bubbles at the same rate. Man-oh man! No more contant checking and adjusting! This is just too good to be true!

Funny thing, though. My husband says my tank looks even tackier (severely in need of pruning but waiting until I get my ballasts so I can see the whole tank well to do it). "Those big ol' bubbles are distracting from the plants." They are indeed larger than I realized pearling would be. Startling, really. I simply had no idea. I've seen all the pics here, but I just didn't "get it". To think I was happy with the teeny ones and thought that was good.pearling. LOL

Thanks Victor and Ideal.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

Left C's internet connection is down because his plants grow so thick it blocks the signal! :hihi:


----------



## SvenBoogie

I apologize if someone already asked this, but would the HPT270C-250 regulator work for co2 purposes?


----------



## brion0

Keep up the good work Left C.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

SvenBoogie said:


> I apologize if someone already asked this, but would the HPT270C-250 regulator work for co2 purposes?


god i hope so. thats what i bought and have almost finished installing. i know some others have the HPT270 but not as high pressures as 250. i'm thinking it will work.


----------



## Darkblade48

SvenBoogie said:


> I apologize if someone already asked this, but would the HPT270C-250 regulator work for co2 purposes?





SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> god i hope so. thats what i bought and have almost finished installing. i know some others have the HPT270 but not as high pressures as 250. i'm thinking it will work.


It will work. The 250 indicates that the delivery pressure can go as high as 250 PSI. As a result, the delivery pressure gauge's scale may be a bit high (i.e. you will want a delivery pressure of about 20-30 PSI), and difficult to read.

I believe there was a post a few pages back about how to adjust the delivery pressure of your regulator, however. You might want to look into fiddling with that, if you feel comfortable with it.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Thanks for the response, curious, what is all the 'extra' stuff in the regulator listed on ebay item 180381368066 ?


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

on the right is a splitter to run two regulators. from that splitter are two valves, most likely to shut off supply of gas to that line. after the regulator is a similar valve but i don't know what it is because it looks like there is a cap on it.

are you looking to buy that one?


----------



## SvenBoogie

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> on the right is a splitter to run two regulators. from that splitter are two valves, most likely to shut off supply of gas to that line. after the regulator is a similar valve but i don't know what it is because it looks like there is a cap on it.
> 
> are you looking to buy that one?


Not sure, shipping is pricey, and ever since I posted it here, it appears someone is trying to take it... :angryfire


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

personally, i think you can do better than that one. just look for a dual stage, low pressure. victor is good, others have been named throughout this thread. after that, if i could do it again, i'd get the post body kit offered online. its easier than pieces it together, and your time may be worth more than spending hours researching everything.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Someone needs to compile the information from this thread into a single post, and make it a sticky... ie:

list of victor two stage regulators suitable for aquarist co2 use
list of other brand two stage regulators suitable for aquarist co2 use
specifications required for solenoids used for co2 regulation
list of generally recommended/well reviewed needle valves and bubble counters

Just a suggestion...


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

my guess is because this site is supported by people who sell these items, the admins would not be inclined to set up that kind of sticky. left C breaks down the post #s of useful information


----------



## kali

left c ..what # am i ?


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

the brain children at clippard sent me the wrong part. what a rookie mistake... -1 for them.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

and i went to my local swagelok rep. gave them a list of parts i needed. and somehow they ordered me the wrong part also. buy a post-body or buy the parts yourself.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

3 guinness down one aching shoulder and i've got everything ready to go minus a 1/4" tube adapter to 1/8" hose bard fitting. will try locally so i don't have to go back to swagelok. for anyone wondering, it is very easy to wire your own clippard solenoid. i used a spare grounded cable laying around my apartment and quickly spliced it open and wired the solenoid. really easy.


----------



## j-gens

hpt270D-580?


----------



## j-gens

the setup... not installed yet still need to get the mini elite for diffusion


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

wow that valve is huge! lol. your assembly is almost as long as your cylinder is tall.


----------



## Darkblade48

Huge needle valve, what model # is it?


----------



## j-gens

swagelok ss-4bmg-vcr. yes it is very long since i had to buy separate fittings to get it to fit into the vcr fittings of the needle valve


----------



## michu

Did you paint your BC, j-gens? Very nice, btw.


----------



## j-gens

noooooo... do you know something i dont know??? fill me in


----------



## kali

can u paint the bubble counter? how can u see the bubble if you paint it .? i notice that your bubble is glass , keep it the way it is ..dont paint


----------



## michu

It appears to be silver in color and all I've seen are the brass ones.

I bought an aquamedic inline BC to avoid sticking a brass BC on mine, but it has now started leaking. I'm back in the market for a BC and would like to get one that matches my reg. Sorry for the crummy pic... took it with my cellphone.


----------



## michu

Oops. I think what I thought was a BC is your NV! LOL It was so large that I assumed it to be a BC... and it's shaped much like one. Since I can't find an NV on your setup, the "BC" must be the NV. Duh!


----------



## michu

And there's the BC. An inline. LOL Boy, do I ever feel the moron.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

hahaha. yea, that needle valve is just fricken huge!


----------



## kali

michu said:


> It appears to be silver in color and all I've seen are the brass ones.
> 
> I bought an aquamedic inline BC to avoid sticking a brass BC on mine, but it has now started leaking. I'm back in the market for a BC and would like to get one that matches my reg. Sorry for the crummy pic... took it with my cellphone.


 michu
i just notice that your regulator and mine came from the same guys ...but when is your pressure relief valve. did you just took it off ..is it safe? i asking because mine its in the way when i hook it up to the cyclinder , make my regulator not straight like your ...mine is bend 35-40 degree and NO LIKE IT MUCH  ...how did you do your ?


----------



## michu

I didn't do anything to it. You can't see it in the pic but it would be in the 7 o'clock position if it wasn't hidden in the pic. I guess they made them all differently.

Mine was hard to install too. The gauge was in the way while trying to crank the wrench. I was thinking about asking Left C when he gets his internet back up if there is a post elbow part that I could buy so that I could turn it all towards the front instead of having it stuck out the side as it is now. It would be alright if it was the other side, but as it is, I can't put my tank close enough to the stand to hide behind the speaker. The darned thing shows and my husband is griping about it.

It also caused him to notice that it was different than before and he started asking questions. Not good. LOL


----------



## michu

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> hahaha. yea, that needle valve is just fricken huge!


Yes it is, Special. Unbelievably frickin huge. It looks similar to a JBJ bubble counter, if you're a half-blind, old bat such as myself. I'm sure my face was priceless when it dawned on me that I was staring at a NV and not a BC. And I thought the ideal was big. Too funny.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Hmm, I'm still having trouble finding one of these gems for a reasonable price, despite hunting ebay every day... the jealousy grows stong... =P


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

SvenBoogie said:


> Hmm, I'm still having trouble finding one of these gems for a reasonable price, despite hunting ebay every day... the jealousy grows stong... =P


i got mine from this guy. he was very helpful and the cost is pretty reasonable.


----------



## Darkblade48

michu said:


> ...if there is a post elbow part that I could buy so that I could turn it all towards the front instead of having it stuck out the side as it is now.


You can likely get an elbow part from your local hardware store so that you can bend the regulator setup to the front, rather than having it stick out to the side.


----------



## michu

Thank you, Anthony. Local I like!


----------



## Jeff5614

I was able to pick up most of the fittings for mine at Lowes including an elbow.


----------



## michu

Thanks Jeff. Going to Lowe's makes it much easier.


----------



## michu

kali, now that it's light enough in the room to take a pic, I snapped another so that you can see the relief valve.










Or part of it anyway. I see I moved and cut off the bottom of it. LOL A photographer I am not.


----------



## kali

michu ..what model # did you got? btw that ideal NV looking hot .!!


----------



## michu

kali, It's the Victor SGT-500. 

I love the chrome-plated NVs that Left C had done for us.


----------



## herns

j-gens said:


> the setup... not installed yet still need to get the mini elite for diffusion


WOW! :icon_eek: Is that a bubble counter? Should the Co2 tubing goes after the bc?

This is the first time Ive seen an all SS set-up. Very nice one.


----------



## herns

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> so this is what i'm taking to the swagelok rep to explain the project:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can i just order the solenoid stuff from the clippard site? i talked to an engineer friend and he thinks the clippard solenoid will need some kind of transformer or something to stop the wall outlet from frying the solenoid. anyone know what he is talking about?


Are you still going to revised and re-post this illustration?


----------



## Darkblade48

herns said:


> WOW! :icon_eek: Is that a bubble counter? Should the Co2 tubing goes after the bc?


The big stainless steel device after the solenoid is a needle valve. The bubble counter (glass) is sitting in a box on the table in front of the CO2 setup.


----------



## j-gens

yes Darkblade48 is right Needle valve(aka micrometer)... apparently it is huge and that is comical??? i dunno it doesnt seem too much bigger than some of the others... i got it for free and i would say that's a pretty sweet deal considering they are $402 new


----------



## michu

j-gens, we weren't laughing at you or your NV. We were laughing at ourselves.


----------



## j-gens

o... then i apologize... just felt i needed to defend myself for some reason but i wasnt sure...


----------



## herns

Darkblade48 said:


> The big stainless steel device after the solenoid is a needle valve. The bubble counter (glass) is sitting in a box on the table in front of the CO2 setup.



Wow! the first time I saw the picture I thought it was a glass bubble counter mounted on top of a NV.:icon_eek:


----------



## herns

SvenBoogie said:


> Hmm, I'm still having trouble finding one of these gems for a reasonable price, despite hunting ebay every day... the jealousy grows stong... =P


Theres one very good and rare Victor VTS253A-320 in Ebay. 
Check this out. Ebay Item number:270430481152


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Theres one very good and rare Victor VTS253A-320 in Ebay.
> Check this out. Ebay Item number:270430481152


That VTS253A-320 is one of the better choices for our use. Its low pressure works between 0 and 30 psi. I asked the guys at Thermadyne if they still made it. They said yes and their list price is $750!! :icon_eek: Sadly, IMO the ebay BIN price is too high. I have the D model and it looks very good in its all brass attire. I believe that I paid $60 plus shipping for my D model. It was a new one too.

Notice the description. :thumbsup: 

*BRAND NEW in Box is a rare*

*VICTOR REGULATOR VTS 253A-320*

*Victor a Thermadyne Company. *

*Most sought by aquarium professionals for CO2 injection use. A post body kit assembly for aquarium CO2 injection use info can be found on plantedtank.net
You can't go wrong with this brand. It makes other CO2 aquarium regulators like a toy!*​


Here's my VTS253D-320 regulator to give you an idea what the A model might look like.


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> left c ..what # am i ?


Hi kali

You are #45! MEMBERS

Left C


----------



## SvenBoogie

herns said:


> Theres one very good and rare Victor VTS253A-320 in Ebay.
> Check this out. Ebay Item number:270430481152


$165...

Meh.


----------



## t0p_sh0tta

I picked up a VTS253A-1993 about a year ago. I guess it's about time that I get it set up.


----------



## SvenBoogie

t0p_sh0tta said:


> I picked up a VTS253A-1993 about a year ago. I guess it's about time that I get it set up.


Yeah.... well, that, or sell it to me instead...


----------



## Left C

Left C said:


> Are you going to sell your other NV? I'll buy it. I think that you got an AM. Did it not hold enough liquid?





michu said:


> Left C, I wouldn't sell that NV to my worst enemy. I returned the entire setup as defective... because it was. I wouldn't GIVE it to my worst enemy. The thing was a nightmare.


I meant to say BC instead of NV. Sorry. :icon_redf

I'll still buy the AM BC from you, if you want to sell it. W/O the leaks, was the AM BC too small for your aquarium?

- If the AM BC is leaking at the elbow, just unscrew it and but some Teflon tape on the threads.
- If it is leaking on the output side, either add new tubing or zip-tie it on tightly.
- If it is leaking between the clear plastic and rubber stopper, just pull the stopper off, dry it and replace it so that the seal is good.


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> ... Mine was hard to install too. The gauge was in the way while trying to crank the wrench. ...


The black plastic handle for your CO2 cylinder is removable. All you need is some snap ring pliers that open the snap ring. Then you can put it back when you need to refill or pick it up.




michu said:


> ... I was thinking about asking Left C when he gets his internet back up if there is a post elbow part that I could buy so that I could turn it all towards the front instead of having it stuck out the side as it is now. ...


Could you use any of these combinations of parts to put an elbow in there somewhere?

*Swagelok Stainless Steel 1/4" and 1/8" Pipe Fittings * 

Ripe Reducers

SS-4-HRN-2 Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $6.15









SS-4-RB-2 Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $5.74









SS-4-RA-2 Reducing Adapter, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $8.92









Pipe Elbows

SS-2-E Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: $15.99
SS-4-E Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT Price: $18.56









SS-2-ME Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $13.33
SS-4-ME Male Elbow, 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $14.05









SS-2-SE Street Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $16.40
SS-4-RSE-2 Reducing Street Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $21.43
SS-4-SE Street Elbow, 1/4 in. Female NPT x 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $18.56









Nipples

SS-4-CN Close Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $5.64
SS-2-CN Close Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.10









SS-4-HLN-1.50 Hex Long Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT, 1 1/2 in. Length Price: $6.77
SS-4-HLN-2.00 Hex Long Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT, 2 in. Length Price: $8.51
SS-2-HLN-1.50 Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1 1/2 in. Length Price: $7.69
SS-2-HLN-2.00 Hex Long Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 2 in. Length Price: $8.20









SS-4-HN Hex Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT Price: $6.05
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.72


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> can u paint the bubble counter? how can u see the bubble if you paint it .? i notice that your bubble is glass , keep it the way it is ..dont paint


I was thinking about painting one of the JBJ BC's a silvery color. It has a brass top and bottom.










*Primer*

Rust-Oleum® Self Etching Primer - COLOR: 249322 - Self-Etching Primer

or

Rust-Oleum® Filler Primer - COLOR: 249279 - Filler Primer Gray



*Top Coat*

Rust-Oleum® Craft & Hobby Enamel Spray - COLOR: 209678 - Silver

or

Rust-Oleum® Metallic - COLOR: 248652 - Metallic Chrome


----------



## kali

left C is back .!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> left C is back .!!!:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:


Thanks! It's good to be back. Instead of playing on he computer, I watched Tom Watson at the Turnberry Open for four days. He was awesome except for his next to the last shot in the final round of regulation. And the four extra holes in the playoff ...


----------



## herns

We're so glad you're back, Left C!


----------



## SvenBoogie

herns said:


> We're so glad you're back, Left C!


Indeed!

And now, for your next trick, conjure me up a cheap Victor! :icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Indeed!
> 
> And now, for your next trick, conjure me up a cheap Victor! :icon_lol:


Sure, I can do that.

Model #: Victor HPT270C-250 Item number: 170358670979 (needs the CGA-250 swapped for a CGA-320)

Model #: Victor VTS 250D-580 Item number: 200364437718 (needs to have the CGA-580 swapped for a CGA-320)


----------



## j-gens

watson blew it big time... choke of the century really


----------



## Left C

j-gens said:


> watson blew it big time... choke of the century really


It is sad too.


----------



## j-gens

i know it he would have been the oldest person to win by something like 11 years


----------



## t0p_sh0tta

SvenBoogie said:


> Yeah.... well, that, or sell it to me instead...



No can do. I have a 75g that I'm going to add CO2 to. =P


----------



## smoq

I just wanted to ask for a matheson pimp# and tell you that I did a little write-up pn assembling a regulator you maybe would like to checkout- here's the link to it

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/90710-diy-co2-regulator-how-info-lots.html


----------



## Left C

smoq said:


> I just wanted to ask for a matheson pimp# ...


Sure. You are #46. MEMBERS

How is that Matheson regulator and Swagelok metering valve working for you?



smoq said:


> ... and tell you that I did a little write-up pn assembling a regulator you maybe would like to checkout- here's the link to it
> 
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/90710-diy-co2-regulator-how-info-lots.html


That's a very good write up. You are welcome to post it here too, if you want.


----------



## Left C

*Victor Service and Repair Manuals*

VTS250 Series
VTS450 Series
HPT 270, HPT 272 Series
HPT 500 Series
SGS 500 Series
SGT 500 Series


----------



## herns

WOW! :eek5: This thread now had 1,070 Views and 33,807 replies and counting!


----------



## j-gens

you mean 1,072 *replies* and 33,825 *views*.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

all cause of viewers like you (and stupid replies like this)!


----------



## herns

j-gens said:


> you mean 1,072 *replies* and 33,825 *views*.


Oopps! i had it the other way around sorry.:biggrin:

Special Plans,
are you still posting the revised version of your illustration?


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

will do when i can get around to it. i still have not had time to assemble my co2 system. the parts have been sitting in my bedroom for a week.


----------



## michu

Left C, It was the top piece that was leaking. I tried and tried to get it dry to stop it from leaking but never got it. Finally, I broke down and called in the male to do the fixing since I failed. Hubby worked on it all of 2 minutes before cracking the top. :/ So... you are not going to want that BC as it is now pretty much trash unless I can find a way to seal the crack, which in that case, I'd keep it.


----------



## michu

I'm out of town; thus the reason you guys have had a nice break from my incoherent ramblings. LOL


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> Left C, It was the top piece that was leaking. I tried and tried to get it dry to stop it from leaking but never got it. Finally, I broke down and called in the male to do the fixing since I failed. Hubby worked on it all of 2 minutes before cracking the top.  :/ So... you are not going to want that BC as it is now pretty much trash unless I can find a way to seal the crack, which in that case, I'd keep it.


Gosh! I'm sorry that it got broken.

If you want one really cheap you can make a ghetto BC like Rex uses.

It's a 20 oz pop bottle with two holes drilled in the top. The holes are slightly smaller than the OD of the tubing. To get the two pieces of tubing into the holes, cut the tubing at a slant and poke it into the hole. Grab to pointed end of the tubing with needle nose pliers and pull it through to the distance that you want. You want one short end that will be in the "air" and one longer end that will be submerged when the cap is on. Add BC fluid until it is half full (give or take) and use some type of sealant on the threads of the top so that it won't leak. The two pieces of tubing should be snug so that they won't leak. Now you have a ghetto BC. 

Find the following statement in this link and click on the words bubble counter to see a picture of his GBC: "My D.I.Y bubble counter/gas separator bubble counter."


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> That VTS253A-320 is one of the better choices for our use. Its low pressure works between 0 and 30 psi. I asked the guys at Thermadyne if they still made it. They said yes and their list price is $750!! :icon_eek: Sadly, IMO the ebay BIN price is too high. I have the D model and it looks very good in its all brass attire. I believe that I paid $60 plus shipping for my D model. It was a new one too.
> 
> Notice the description. :thumbsup:
> 
> *BRAND NEW in Box is a rare*
> 
> *VICTOR REGULATOR VTS 253A-320*
> 
> *Victor a Thermadyne Company. *
> 
> *Most sought by aquarium professionals for CO2 injection use. A post body kit assembly for aquarium CO2 injection use info can be found on plantedtank.net
> You can't go wrong with this brand. It makes other CO2 aquarium regulators like a toy!*​
> 
> 
> Here's my VTS253D-320 regulator to give you an idea what the A model might look like.


I got the same VTS253A-320. It was almost half the size of my Concoa.
Take a look at this Ebay Item number:180386303028. This is exactly what I got for just $9.99.:hihi: Suppliers price mentioned below is over $360.


Read the description:

This CONCOA High-Purity, Two Stage regulator has been manufactured by CONCOA RESEARCH & SPECIALTY GAS / CONTROLS CORPORATION of AMERICA: Made In USA.
Designed for* High-Purity & Instrumentation applications*. Two stage regulators are designed to control gases in applications where constant delivery pressures are required, regardless of fluctuations in supply tank pressures.
Condition: new/unused, packaged in original factory carton. Typical supplier price on this regulator is over :icon_arro$360....our price is less than half...buy here with confidence and save $$$!!!
This is not a "garden variety" general purpose regulator...***Designed for Laboratory & Critical Process Control Applications. Clean Room assembled & packaged***.

*Model:* 2123351 (212 Series)
*Mfg. Part No.:* 2123351-01-580
*Inlet Fitting:* CGA 580 ...non-corrosive & non-flammable inert gases: (argon, helium, nitrogen, etc.)
*Inlet Filter:* 10 micron sintered bronze.
*Materials of Construction:* Chrome plated forged brass
Diaphragms: 316L convoluted Stainless Steel
Seats: PTFE
Seals: PTFE
*Inlet Gauge: *2.5" Dual scale, 0 - 4000 psig (1000 - 28,000 kPa)
*Outlet Gauge:* 2.5" Dual scale, 0 -200 psig (0 - 1400 kPa)

*SPECIFICATIONS
*

*Maximum Inlet Pressure:* 3000 psig (210 BAR)

*Outlet/Delivery Range: *0 -120psig
*Temperature Operating Range:* -40 to 140 degrees F ( -40 to 60 degrees C).
*Secondary Outlet Valve:* Needle Valve. Outlet threads: 1/4" NPT Male connection.

Materials of construction will not contaminate the gas stream, and are highly resistant to inboard diffusion of atmospheric contaminates.
*Self Resetting Pressure Relief Valve:* (diaphragm & gauge protection)

*TYPICAL APPLICATIONS*


High-Purity Gas Handling: High Purity & Liquefied Gases (up to grade 4.5)

Gas Chromatography
Zero Gases, Span Gases, and Calibration Mixtures
Research Sampling Systems
Laser Gas Systems
Process Analyzers


----------



## SvenBoogie

Yeah, yeah herns, rub it in my face...


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> Yeah, yeah, rub it in my face...


what what what ?? c'mom ya better stop it . this doesn't sound right . kids can view this you know , this's not a PG forum .lol :icon_mrgr:icon_mrgr:icon_mrgr


----------



## Left C

General Information: Regulator Model Identification Symbols
*pdf*


----------



## kali

got mine post a body in order , will ship out mondays ..!!  stay tune


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> got mine post a body in order , will ship out mondays ..!!  stay tune


Which one did you order?

Do you need a SS CGA-320 nut and nipple for your High Purity regulator? I just ordered one for my HPT 500 at a good price.


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> Which one did you order?
> 
> Do you need a SS CGA-320 nut and nipple for your High Purity regulator? I just ordered one for my HPT 500 at a good price.


special order from jeremy ( he's finally emails me ) solenoid+ all the fitting( 90 degree, 10-32, fitting connect to regulator and ect...) and a brass check valve go between the facbo and jbj bubble counter ..i sent him the pic from GLA and he just fill the order.
anwar did install the cga-320 for me but its not chrome, wish i would just wait for the chrome but o well too later now , beside anwar kinda treat me realy nice with the price that i cant refused , many thank to him.

leftC : you might see alot of PM coming your way from me ... walk me though putting them together ..thanks


----------



## kali

hey left C
do you know whats the different between the HPT270C-250 and HPT270B-250??


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> ... leftC : you might see alot of PM coming your way from me ... walk me though putting them together ..thanks


That is just fine with me. Do you have a vice or access to one? It is easier to do with a vice, but it isn't absolutely needed.

lovingHDTV used one of Jeremy's kits for his build. Here is the thread. It may be helpful too you.


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> That is just fine with me. Do you have a vice or access to one? It is easier to do with a vice, but it isn't absolutely needed.
> 
> lovingHDTV used one of Jeremy's kits for his build. Here is the thread. It may be helpful too you.


i think my pop inlaw got one .. he's lived the other side of the city but awww ill go there if i have to use the vice ... i did read lovingHDTV thread but i was thinking to set it up like how GLA regulator with fabco nv55.. flat it out the needle valve not straight down like HDTV but we'll see..


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> hey left C
> do you know whats the different between the HPT270C-250 and HPT270B-250??


Victor's nomenclature for the A through K models indicates the regulators' delivery ranges and what gauge is used.

A model .... 2-15 PSIG Delivery ..... 2-30 PSIG Gauge
B Model .... 2-40 PSIG Delivery ..... 2-60 PSIG Gauge
C Model .... 4-80 PSIG Delivery ..... 4-100 PSIG Gauge
D Model .... 5-125 PSIG Delivery .... 5-200 PSIG Gauge
E Model .... 10-200 PSIG Delivery .. 10-400 PSIG Gauge
... and so forth

Victor High Purity HPT PDF


----------



## Left C

Some people have asked me about Anwar's Victor high purity regulators that he is selling. These regulators are dual stage regulators. They are chrome plated and they have stainless steel diaphragms. Anwar is a Victor technician. He adds a brass or chrome CGA-320 nut and nipple plus a Swagelok stainless steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT reducer. The regulator is then ready to be attached to a CO2 cylinder and the post body kit or parts of your choice. 
He has 5 or 6 of the SGT500's and 1 or 2 of the HPT272's available. 

The SGT500's have forged stainless steel chrome plated bodies and the HPT272's have forged brass chrome plated bodies.

SGT500
http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/SGT500.pdf
http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Upload...SGT 500 Series Stainless Steel Regulators.pdf

HPT272
http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT270-280.pdf
http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_2329_56-0676 HPT Series High Purity Regulators.pdf


*EDIT:* You can contact Anwar directly at "sgs shsfghr" <[email protected]>

*EDIT Again:* *Pricing -* Either of the regulators are $80 including shipping with a brass CGA-320 and Swagelok 1/4" x 1/8" reducer. If you want the chrome plated nut and nipple, it is $20 more for a total of $100.

*Differences -* Both are these regulators are very good. The HPT 270/272 models are a little larger than the SGT 500 models. The SGT models are designed for use with purging. They are able to show a vacuum. This isn't important to us. Several people have asked the question as to why the low pressure gauge shows negative values.


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> Some people have asked me about Anwar's Victor high purity regulators that he is selling. These regulators are dual stage regulators. They are chrome plated and they have stainless steel diaphragms. Anwar is a Victor technician. He adds a brass or chrome CGA-320 nut and nipple plus a Swagelok stainless steel 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT reducer. The regulator is then ready to be attached to a CO2 cylinder and the post body kit or parts of your choice.
> He has 5 or 6 of the SGT500's and 1 or 2 of the HPT272's available.
> 
> The SGT500's have forged stainless steel chrome plated bodies and the HPT272's have forged brass chrome plated bodies.
> 
> SGT500
> http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT500.pdf
> http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Upload...SGT 500 Series Stainless Steel Regulators.pdf
> 
> HPT272
> http://www.dmltrading.com.sg/documentation/HPT270-280.pdf
> http://www.thermadyne.com/IM_Uploads/DocLib_2329_56-0676 HPT Series High Purity Regulators.pdf


 get em before it gone ..anwar is a great seller .


----------



## SvenBoogie

kali said:


> get em before it gone ..anwar is a great seller .


Where are they and how much?


----------



## SvenBoogie

Just picked up a VTS253A-1993 on ebay for $45, will post once I get it... now to figure out all the other parts I need...


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

go with the post body kit sven. unless your a college kid with nothing to do.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Just picked up a VTS253A-1993 on ebay for $45, will post once I get it... now to figure out all the other parts I need...


Sweet! IMO, the VTS253A-320 regulators are among the best ones for our use. These come in brass and chrome plated brass. I'm sure that you will really like it. A rep at Thermadyne told me that the list price is $753 for the VTS253A-320.

There is a very good Parker 2F-NMA-BN-B-V metering valve on ebay right now at a good price. It has a Vernier Caliper handle and it has 1/8" female NPT ports just like the Ideal valve does. The price is $18 including shipping and it is Item Number: 350215833992.	
Look for 2F-NMA in this pdf. http://www.plesner.as/mod/products/upload/4170-N.pdf


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> Sweet! IMO, the VTS253A-320 regulators are among the best ones for our use. These come in brass and chrome plated brass. I'm sure that you will really like it. A rep at Thermadyne told me that the list price is $753 for the VTS253A-320.
> 
> There is a very good Parker 2F-NMA-BN-B-V metering valve on ebay right now at a good price. It has a Vernier Caliper handle and it has 1/8" female NPT ports just like the Ideal valve does. The price is $18 including shipping and it is Item Number: 350215833992.
> Look for 2F-NMA in this pdf. http://www.plesner.as/mod/products/upload/4170-N.pdf


 real tempting right now ..!! what else do we need to hook that valve to JBJ and solenoids
thanks letf c


----------



## kali

its said that valve 23 pounds ,<<< whats that mean? aint that a lil way too heavy to put on the solenoid?


----------



## SvenBoogie

kali said:


> its said that valve 23 pounds ,<<< whats that mean? aint that a lil way too heavy to put on the solenoid?


I'm also not fond of that seller's awful feedback...

EDIT:

Looking through that seller's feedback, he calls everyone who gives him negative feedback a liar, etc, and yet, every one of them has 100% feedback... not a good sign.


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> I'm also not fond of that seller's awful feedback...


click one the pic to enlager ..you'll see on the box ..23pounds. feedback is not that bad IMO but what do i know.


----------



## SvenBoogie

kali said:


> click one the pic to enlager ..you'll see on the box ..23pounds. feedback is not that bad IMO but what do i know.


Since this is a bulk auction with a ton available, guessing thats the box he got a bunch of them in...


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> Since this is a bulk option with a ton available, guessing thats the box he got a bunch of them in...


 thats made alot of sence ...just gotta make sure before buy , ( seller said no return)


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> its said that valve 23 pounds ,<<< whats that mean? aint that a lil way too heavy to put on the solenoid?


That's a typo or something. The valve only weighs a few ounces.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> There is a very good Parker 2F-NMA-BN-B-V metering valve on ebay right now at a good price. It has a Vernier Caliper handle and it has 1/8" female NPT ports just like the Ideal valve does. The price is $18 including shipping and it is Item Number: 350215833992.
> Look for 2F-NMA in this pdf.


Hi Left C,

That is a very nice metering valve with a 90 deg angle like Ideal Valve as you said. In this way I can mount the bubble counter on top using a SS 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple (SS-2-HN). I would need 2 for the solenoid and for this Parker 2F-NMA-BN-B-V.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> I'm also not fond of that seller's awful feedback...
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Looking through that seller's feedback, he calls everyone who gives him negative feedback a liar, etc, and yet, every one of them has 100% feedback... not a good sign.


I ordered my two valves early Sunday morning and he shipped them that afternoon. I don't have a problem with that.

Torpedobarb got one a couple of weeks ago. He said that his plants are finally pearling again and that valve is built like a tank. Someone else ordered one too.

They look identical to some Swagelok metering valves that I have. Even the pdf looks similar to Swagelok's pdf's.


----------



## kali

i need everyone 02 cents....
between that parker and fabco Nv55.which one would you rather have? 
i already got a brand new one fabco nv55 should i stay with that or sell it and get this parker?
thanks


----------



## SvenBoogie

Well, I took the plunge and bought one, we'll see how it goes.

Edit: Beyond that, and the regulator I already have on the way, what other parts do I need to look for?


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Hi Left C,
> 
> That is a very nice metering valve with a 90 deg angle like Ideal Valve as you said. In this way I can mount the bubble counter on top using a SS 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple (SS-2-HN). I would need 2 for the solenoid and for this Parker 2F-NMA-BN-B-V.


That's correct.

EDIT: You really have two choices. You can either add a 1/8" MPT hex nipple (SS-2-HN) or a 1/8" MPT closed nipple (SS-2-CN).


----------



## herns

*Parker Metering Valve and Victor and Concoa Regulators*



Left C said:


> That's correct.


There's just too many good deals coming in Ebay since last week. My eyes popped  when I saw that $80 Concoa 212 :thumbsup:

Then the Victor VTS CO2 series and the metering valves appeared. :drool:. 

Thanks!


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> real tempting right now ..!! what else do we need to hook that valve to JBJ and solenoids
> thanks letf c


Do you want the needle valve/solenoid assembly to be mounted straight out or do you want an elbow in it so that you could either point it back at you or at a downward angle.

I made up a quick list with prices. You can go to Swagelok.com, enter the part number and you can view it. You can also go to page 66 in this thread and view all the fittings.

There are more ways to mount them than are included on the list. I suggest that you look at all the suggested pieces and see if that is the way that you want it to be mounted.

Note: This is does not include the parts to add a JBJ bubble counter. I you want to mount this BC, omit one 1/8" MPT x 1/8" barbed fitting (SS-2-HC-1-2) and add a 1/8" MPT hex nipple (SS-2-HN) or a 1/8" MPT closed nipple (SS-2-CN).

Swagelok Parts Needed

Anwars Regulator ($13.33 + $5.64 + $5.64 = $244.61)
- Elbowed Design
Elbowed - Solenoid to Female Metering Valve
Ordering #: SS-2-ME Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 13.33

(2X) Female Metering Valve to Tubing
Ordering #: SS-2-HC-1-2 Description: Stainless Steel Hose Connector, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: USD 5.64

Other Regulators
Body to Solenoid ($6.15 + $13.33 + $5.64 + $5.64 = $25.12)
- Elbowed Design after Solenoid
Ordering #: SS-4-HRN-2 Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 6.15

Elbowed - Solenoid to Female Metering Valve
Ordering #: SS-2-ME Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 13.33

(2X) Female Metering Valve to Tubing
Ordering #: SS-2-HC-1-2 Description: Stainless Steel Hose Connector, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: USD 5.64

or

Body to Solenoid ($5.74 + $13.33 + $4.10 + $5.64 + $5.64 = $34.45)
- Elbowed Design before Solenoid
Ordering #: SS-4-RB-2 Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: USD 5.74

Elbowed – Bushing to Solenoid 
Ordering #: SS-2-ME Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 13.33

Solenoid to Female Metering Valve
Ordering #: SS-2-CN Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Close Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 4.10

(2X) Female Metering Valve to Tubing
Ordering #: SS-2-HC-1-2 Description: Stainless Steel Hose Connector, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: USD 5.64




Body to Solenoid ($5.74 + $4.10 + $5.64 + $5.64 = $21.12)
- Straight Design
Ordering #: SS-4-RB-2 Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: USD 5.74

Solenoid to Female Metering Valve
Ordering #: SS-2-CN Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Close Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 4.10

(2X) Female Metering Valve to Tubing
Ordering #: SS-2-HC-1-2 Description: Stainless Steel Hose Connector, 1/8 in. Male NPT, 1/8 in. Hose ID Price: USD 5.64




*EDIT:* Please notice that you will need (2) of the SS-2-HC-1-2 Stainless Steel Hose Connector, 1/8 in. Hose ID
Originally I only listed (1).


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C, can you do me a big favor and make me a list of what else I need, and what exact specs/brand/model/etc you'd recommend, for my co2 system, now that I ordered one of those metering valves and my regulator?

I know I need a solenoid (but I don't know what kind to look for), a bubble counter (same situation), and possibly a diffuser... I have no clue as far as the detailed parts for connecting everything however...


----------



## herns

SvenBoogie said:


> Left C, can you do me a big favor and make me a list of what else I need, and what exact specs/brand/model/etc you'd recommend, for my co2 system, now that I ordered one of those metering valves and my regulator?
> 
> I know I need a solenoid (but I don't know what kind to look for), a bubble counter (same situation), and possibly a diffuser... I have no clue as far as the detailed parts for connecting everything however...


Rex sells a post body kit.
Heres the brass set I got from him.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-dual-stage-regulator-pimp-club-55.html

You can get bubble counter in Ebay for about $15 I think. Ebay Seller: aquaticmagic.

Left C also posted the SS parts. Find that on page 1 table of content.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Left C, can you do me a big favor and make me a list of what else I need, and what exact specs/brand/model/etc you'd recommend, for my co2 system, now that I ordered one of those metering valves and my regulator?
> 
> I know I need a solenoid (but I don't know what kind to look for), a bubble counter (same situation), and possibly a diffuser... I have no clue as far as the detailed parts for connecting everything however...


The beginning of this post shows all the parts in SuMo's post body kit. You will need everything in that kit except for the Ideal metering valve. Both the Parker and Ideal have two 1/8" FPT ports. An easy way to go is to ask SuMo if they would sell you the post body minus the Ideal valve. This way you get all the adapters, bubble counter, Clippard solenoid, tubing, check valves, pipe joint compound, etc.

If not, you can use the same post in the hyperlink to find what you need. It is page 54.

On the very first post in this thread is basically a table of contents. It may be very helpful too you. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/equipment/72328-victor-dual-stage-regulator-pimp-club.html


Diffuser: You'll have to decide what you want - reactor, ceramic diffuser, needle wheel, etc.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Much appreciated, thx.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Where are they and how much?


I've now added the contact info and the prices. I didn't have that info at first.


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> Well, I took the plunge and bought one, we'll see how it goes.


me too!?!?!?


----------



## herns

*SS Kit*

The brass post body kit a pretty straight forward to put in together. They come in ready from Sumo or from Rex. 

For my Concoa 212, getting a SS parts is a little challenging for me to the way that I wanted.


----------



## SvenBoogie

One thing I am now confused about, do I need that metering valve AND a needle valve? Or are they the same thing?


----------



## herns

SvenBoogie said:


> One thing I am now confused about, do I need that metering valve AND a needle valve? Or are they the same thing?


The post body kit from Sumo may include it.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> One thing I am now confused about, do I need that metering valve AND a needle valve? Or are they the same thing?


I metering valve is a more precise needle valve with a finer adjustment range. Usually a metering valve has more turns per inch than a needle valve. 

Some people refer to metering valves as needle valves.


----------



## Darkblade48

SvenBoogie said:


> I know I need a solenoid (but I don't know what kind to look for), a bubble counter (same situation), and possibly a diffuser... I have no clue as far as the detailed parts for connecting everything however...


You will likely want to get a solenoid that has 1/8" openings on both ends. It should be normally closed (i.e. only opens when you apply electricity). Good brands include Clippard, Burkert and Parker. The Clippard solenoid can get quite hot during operation (which is normal), but has an LED to indicate it is on. The Burkert and Parker do not have this LED.

For bubble counters, you can DIY one yourself, or buy a JBJ brass bubble counter (with 1/8" threading) on eBay or locally. 

For diffusers, you have a variety to choose from (i.e. glass diffusers with ceramic disks, inline reactors, etc). Ultimately, it depends on the size of tank that you will want to inject CO2 into. For example, in larger tanks, you may want to skip on diffusers and use inline reactors and/or needle wheel, etc.



SvenBoogie said:


> One thing I am now confused about, do I need that metering valve AND a needle valve? Or are they the same thing?


As mentioned, you need either a needle valve or a metering valve, not both. Metering valves allow finer adjustment than needle valves, but both can be used for our purposes.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Hmm, those jbj bubble counters seem to be incredibly hard to find on their own...


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Hmm, those jbj bubble counters seem to be incredibly hard to find on their own...


Here's a place: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250306187549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Here is a high quality Burket solenoid: http://www.aquariumplants.com/Burkert_Brass_Solenoid_Valve_Type_6011_p/bu6011.htm

Did you understand my link to SuMo's kit that shows the parts used?

Here's an older DIY showing Rex building a CO2 regulator. Many of us have used this as a guide.
http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


----------



## herns

Left C, Im back!

Whew! I guess my computer got stuck placing it on standby mode overnight. Thanks for that tip.

Here's that sketch again. I just need to modify that #2 to SS-2-E Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT.

Also, what do you think if I use that piece on No.5 & 7 for No. 3 to make them all the same?


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C said:


> Here's a place: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250306187549&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
> 
> Here is a high quality Burket solenoid: http://www.aquariumplants.com/Burkert_Brass_Solenoid_Valve_Type_6011_p/bu6011.htm
> 
> Did you understand my link to SuMo's kit that shows the parts used?
> 
> Here's an older DIY showing Rex building a CO2 regulator. Many of us have used this as a guide.
> http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm


I noticed the site with the Burkert solenoid was very careful not to actually list the full part number... :icon_lol:

I did understand the link to the SuMo kit, appreciate that, I did contact them about getting it without the needle valve, just trying to decide if that option is worth it or if I can assemble the parts cheaper on my own. 

I'm curious, can the connecting pieces be found at any hardware store?


----------



## j-gens

... herns you need to change #1 to 1/4" mnpt to 1/8" *mnpt* and i would make #3 #5 #7 all the same piece


----------



## herns

j-gens said:


> ... herns you need to change #1 to 1/4" mnpt to 1/8" *mnpt* and i would make #3 #5 #7 all the same piece


*Yeah, Thats what I told Left C on page 75. He also point out on a PM that No. 2 should be SS-2-E Elbow 1/8". No.1--SS-4-HRN-2 I think is fine too but I could not see any reason why SS-4-RB-2 wouldnt work.* 
_
Left C, Im back!

Whew! I guess my computer got stuck placing it on standby mode overnight. Thanks for that tip.

Here's that sketch again. I just need to modify that #2 to SS-2-E Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT.

*Also, what do you think if I use that piece on No.5 & 7 for No. 3 to make them all the same?*_ *


*

*
Revision No. 1
Changed No. 2: SS-2-E Elbow, 1/8" Female NPT*


----------



## j-gens

whoops sorry i didnt read your post very carefully just looked at the diagram... lol i didnt even notice you wrote on it...


----------



## SvenBoogie

Bought the JBJ bubble counter, so now down to needing a solenoid, and all the various fittings...


----------



## herns

j-gens said:


> whoops sorry i didnt read your post very carefully just looked at the diagram... lol i didnt even notice you wrote on it...


:biggrin: Thats alright J-gens.

Have you found a SS Elbow similar to the brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT Elbow










so that we can eliminate No. 1 & 2 fittings?


----------



## j-gens

something like this? 
SS-2-SE


----------



## herns

j-gens said:


> something like this?
> SS-2-SE


I wonder if they have 1/4" x 1/8".


----------



## j-gens

SS-4-RSE-2


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Left C, Im back!
> 
> Whew! I guess my computer got stuck placing it on standby mode overnight. Thanks for that tip.
> 
> Here's that sketch again. I just need to modify that #2 to SS-2-E Elbow, 1/8 in. Female NPT.
> 
> Also, what do you think if I use that piece on No.5 & 7 for No. 3 to make them all the same?


For your parts 1, 2 and 3; use these two parts:

Ordering #: SS-4-RB-2 Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Reducing Bushing, 1/4 in. Male NPT x 1/8 in. Female NPT Price: USD 5.74










Elbowed – Bushing to Solenoid 
Ordering #: SS-2-ME Description: Stainless Steel Pipe Fitting, Male Elbow, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: USD 13.33










Parts 5 and 7 can be:
SS-2-HN Hex Nipple, 1/8 in. Male NPT Price: $4.72









Also, you can substitute a brass 1/8" MPT hex nipple for Part 7 since it will be underneath your JBJ BC.
*brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - *










PS: Damn Trojan :angryfire


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> I noticed the site with the Burkert solenoid was very careful not to actually list the full part number... :icon_lol:


That particular one uses brass parts. They have another model that uses stainless steel parts. It looks better than the brass solenoid on a chrome/stainless steel regulator assembly.

I have that same solenoid on a brass Victor VTS253D-320. It does a very good job.











SvenBoogie said:


> I did understand the link to the SuMo kit, appreciate that, I did contact them about getting it without the needle valve, just trying to decide if that option is worth it or if I can assemble the parts cheaper on my own.











$165 shipped in the US. for: The post body kit with Ideal Metering Valve.

# Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on
# Ideal metering valve
# JBJ Bubble Counter
# Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing
# A brass check valve
# All of the fittings you'll need
# Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections
# ALL IN ONE PLACE!

They want $165 shipping for this kit. The Ideal valve sells for $65. This leaves $100 for the other parts.

$30 to $35 - Electric solenoid valve with red LED to signal the valve is powered on
- Parker metering valve
$17 to $25 - JBJ Bubble Counter
$2.50 to $5 - Five feet of high quality flexible CO2 tubing
$13 to $15 - A brass check valve
$5 to $10 All of the fittings you'll need
$1 to $3 - Enough pipe dope to make all of the connections

Not including shipping, my guesstimate for the total price of these parts would be $68.50 to $93.



SvenBoogie said:


> I'm curious, can the connecting pieces be found at any hardware store?


You can get the connecting pieces, but where are you going to get the solenoid, bubble counter, CO2 tubing, check valve and pipe dope? How much will this cost you including shipping? 

If SuMo charges somewhere near $100 for the parts w/o the Ideal valve; I think that you are getting a good deal.


----------



## herns

*Rev 2*

Here you go...
*
Revision No. 2

Changed Part No. 2: SS-2-ME Male Elbow 1/8" Male NPT
Changed Part No. 3: NOT USED
Part No 7: Option to use Brass 1/8" MPT Hex Nipple.

*


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C, thanks for the reply, I already picked up a jbj bubble counter on ebay though, so now I'm just down to the solenoid and all the various connectors, as well as a check valve.

Incidentally, if I ever had any doubt that going pressurized was a good idea, I picked up a 40 breeder tank last night, so definitely no regrets here. =D


----------



## herns

SvenBoogie said:


> Left C, thanks for the reply, I already picked up a jbj bubble counter on ebay though, so now I'm just down to the solenoid and all the various connectors, as well as a check valve.
> 
> Incidentally, if I ever had any doubt that going pressurized was a good idea, I picked up a 40 breeder tank last night, so definitely no regrets here. =D


I sent you PM. Check your Inbox.


----------



## SvenBoogie

herns said:


> I sent you PM. Check your Inbox.


I got it, as I mentioned a while back on this thread though, I picked up one of the Parker metering valves off ebay that Left C posted about.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> I got it, as I mentioned a while back on this thread though, I picked up one of the Parker metering valves off ebay that Left C posted about.


I just got the two that I ordered. They are very similar, but not identical to some Swagelok MV's that I got a while back. I think that you will be pleased. Here is a picture of the Swagelok for comparison.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Left C, thanks for the reply, I already picked up a jbj bubble counter on ebay though, so now I'm just down to the solenoid and all the various connectors, as well as a check valve.
> 
> Incidentally, if I ever had any doubt that going pressurized was a good idea, I picked up a 40 breeder tank last night, so definitely no regrets here. =D


Good deal! A 40 breeder is my favorite size.

You can check with SuMo and get a solenoid, brass parts, check valves, CO2 tubing, pipe dope, etc.

Rex Grigg has the solenoid and brass parts. He also has brass check valves and CO2 tubing, reactors, bubble counters, etc.

Also, you can get the solenoid, check valves, CO2 tubing and some of the brass parts from Clippard. Note that Clippard tacks on $10 per order unless you can go to one of their stores or go through one of their online contacts.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C, appreciate that, I'm going to try to get the remaining pieces locally/individually, but when I inevitably fail, I will probably go one of those routes. :hihi:


----------



## herns

I once did that. But then I thought I would be paying for the Clippard & the neddle valve shipping anyway, why bother go thru looking each pieces and spend on gas? :hihi:


----------



## kali

wifey just called post a body from jeremy's is there ..!! cant wait to go home now.


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> wifey just called post a body from jeremy's is there ..!! cant wait to go home now.


That's great! Do you think that you might have a picture later on?

Do you have any pipe joint compound?


----------



## kali

yep letf c ..the pic will be up here later when i got home..!! i already got a pipe joint just like that same product # but not with taflon tape , its with PTFE ..i think and (youre did too on the few page back ) it will be the same since i cant find any oatey #31229 with taflon anywhere by me .:smile:


Left C said:


> That's great! Do you think that you might have a picture later on?
> 
> Do you have any pipe joint compound?


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> yep letf c ..the pic will be up here later when i got home..!! ...


Are you going to leave work a little early? I would. :hihi:

Have you decided if you are going to mount the needle valve in a vertical or horizontal position?


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> Are you going to leave work a little early? I would. :hihi:
> 
> Have you decided if you are going to mount the needle valve in a vertical or horizontal position?


 pic up!!! everythings in the pic from jeremy (except the pic and the wrench, jbj bb counter) for 56.50 shipped to your doors. 
1: solenoid
2:check valve ( go between the NV & BB counter)
3: all the fitting (10-32 to 1/8 x2 , 10-32 m &M x2, elbow ,1/8 hex nipple x2 )









PS: excuse me for all those stuff on the back ground of the pic ,i dont want to snap another pic , it had been a really really long day .


----------



## kali

hey left c
how should i mount the solenoid? the side with the power cord ( like the pic above) go the regulator or the other way around?
thanks


----------



## Darkblade48

kali said:


> hey left c
> how should i mount the solenoid? the side with the power cord ( like the pic above) go the regulator or the other way around?
> thanks


I don't think it really matters, but personally, I would make the side with the power cord go to the needle valve.


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> hey left c
> how should i mount the solenoid? the side with the power cord ( like the pic above) go the regulator or the other way around?
> thanks


The DIN connector (the black part) is able to rotate 360° around the black thumb screw on top.

I mounted mine so that you can read the words Clippard MME-2PDS in the normal direction on the aluminum body. You don't want to mount it in the reverse direction where the word Clippard is reversed.

In other words ...

Regulator -> words Clippard MME-2PDS in a normal direction on the aluminum body -> needle valve

jaidexl wrote up a very good regulator build at AquaManiacs.net. His second picture shows you what I am talking about. http://aquamaniacs.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=26195


----------



## SvenBoogie

Ey yo Left C...











Can a brotha get a number?

:hihi:


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Ey yo Left C...
> 
> Can a brotha get a number?
> 
> :hihi:


Yo Mon ... #48 'tis.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214



SvenBoogie said:


> Just picked up a VTS253A-1993 on ebay for $45, will post once I get it... now to figure out all the other parts I need...


Is this Item number: 110417178842 from 1chemical?

That's nice!

Are you expecting your Parker MV tomorrow?


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C said:


> Yo Mon ... #48 'tis.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214
> 
> 
> Is this Item number: 110417178842 from 1chemical?
> 
> That's nice!
> 
> Are you expecting your Parker MV tomorrow?


It is indeed from that auction, its a little scuffed up, but I can't complain (much) for $45 plus shipping (I talked him down a little...)

Yeah, hopefully the parker valve will arrive tomorrow, although I still don't have the rest of what I need to put the system together, so I'm not too anxious.


----------



## kali

the wifey called again ..the parker needle valve is there .


----------



## kali

done ... took me about 30min or less. 
Question: do i have to use all the man power + some more for all the fitting or just tight enough where i can feel is good enough?


----------



## SvenBoogie

I just received my parker valve in the mail, I have to say, I am not impressed with the condition it showed up in. Doesn't look anywhere as nice and new as the one in your pictures. I just killed my camera battery taking pics, will post as soon as its charged...


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> done ... took me about 30min or less.
> Question: do i have to use all the man power + some more for all the fitting or just tight enough where i can feel is good enough?


That sure is great looking! It should last a very long time.

How do you like that Parker valve?

As long as they don't leak is good enough. I tend to connect them snug.


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> I just received my parker valve in the mail, I have to say, I am not impressed with the condition it showed up in. Doesn't look anywhere as nice and new as the one in your pictures. I just killed my camera battery taking pics, will post as soon as its charged...


svenboogie
what do you mean not as nice as mine ..does your came brand new in it box or just the valve ? i dont got any problem with the way the seller ship..but i'm just hope that this valve can preformance like the way it should be.iam not gonna be surprise if i switch to other NV in a month or two ..


----------



## SvenBoogie

So... here is what I got...

For reference, this is the picture shown in the ebay auction:










And here is what showed up at my door:




























Oh, and that black mark you see on the valve? Yeah... thats NOT a shadow...


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> How do you like that Parker valve?


its nice, heavy duty, but is it me or that valve is hard to dialing in the bubble ..bubble come out ,stop turn the valve < 1 -2 sec more bubble come out , so have to re-dial again.( only happend when i losse the NV) awww i gotta mess around with it more i guess or something else i did wrong..


----------



## kali

oh uh ..!!! sorry svenboogie 
emails the seller to see what's up!! mine came in just as new as it can be ..but now after a few turn by the wrench there's a few spot that it black like your pic .


----------



## snafu

i've been using the same valve (parker) for a couple months now. i'm pretty happy with the build quality and performance. at the price point, it's hard not to recommend it.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Lest anyone think I am being too picky...

The manual, complete with folding and *ACTUAL MOLD SPOTS*:










Some sort of gross funky black tarnish (mold?) *INSIDE THE ACTUAL VALVE:*



















And again, the lovely box:


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> its nice, heavy duty, but is it me or that valve is hard to dialing in the bubble ..bubble come out ,stop turn the valve < 1 -2 sec more bubble come out , so have to re-dial again.( only happend when i losse the NV) awww i gotta mess around with it more i guess or something else i did wrong..


It sounds like you need to unscrew it some more to increase your bubble count.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Lest anyone think I am being too picky...
> 
> The manual, complete with folding and *ACTUAL MOLD SPOTS*:


Was your valve in a small zip-lock baggie?

You should contact the seller. The valve can probably easily be cleaned up, but that's not fair.

Both of my valves look brand new.

I'm sorry that you have a problem.


----------



## herns

Left C,
My Parker NV shows up today and it was awesome!


----------



## kali

herns said:


> Left C,
> My Parker NV shows up today and it was awesome!


so i guess your Nv is all good not like svenboogie huh?


----------



## herns

kali said:


> so i guess your Nv is all good not like svenboogie huh?



Mine had a very little tarnish inside the valve but not as bad as his. My guess this is an old stock NV.

Left C,

Do you know how to clean this dirt inside the valve?


----------



## kali

any victor PIMP member in here with 10lb cyclinder tank?? will it tip over if the tank near empty? let me know so i can find a way to secure the cyclinder , even though i dont want to.


----------



## SPECIAL||PLANS

definitely need to secure the cylinder.


----------



## kali

SPECIAL||PLANS said:


> definitely need to secure the cylinder.


thats what i hoping not to heard but yea i'll find secure is some how some way now .thanks


----------



## j-gens

my #10 cylinder doesnt tip over when it is empty and my rig hangs out further than most


----------



## SvenBoogie

herns said:


> Mine had a very little tarnish inside the valve but not as bad as his. My guess this is an old stock NV.
> 
> Left C,
> 
> Do you know how to clean this dirt inside the valve?


I can tell you that I tried using rubbing alcohol on the tarnish both outside and inside the valve.

It somewhat removed the tarnish on the outside, but made zero difference to the tarnish inside.

I emailed the seller and he offered to send me a new (I'm assuming he means new-er) valve if I return the one I received. I'll be out shipping, but I guess its my only option.


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> I emailed the seller and he offered to send me a new (I'm assuming he means new-er) valve if I return the one I received. I'll be out shipping, but I guess its my only option.


keep us post ...


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> ... Left C,
> 
> Do you know how to clean this dirt inside the valve?


Acetone, Paint Thinner, etc.????? It's hard to say without knowing what the stain is.


----------



## Darkblade48

I'd use a polar solvent like acetone, toluene, etc, as Left C suggested. I bet it is some kind of dirt/grease buildup.


----------



## Kawi

Would a vts453d be overkill for a 5lb tank? I have my sights set on one...

*edited after a moment of clarity..


----------



## CL

Darkblade48 said:


> I'd use a polar solvent like acetone, toluene, etc, as Left C suggested. I bet it is some kind of dirt/grease buildup.


I wouldn't know what you meant by this if it weren't for the last week of chemistry class last year :biggrin:


----------



## Left C

Kawi said:


> Would a vts453d be overkill for a 5lb tank? I have my sights set on one...
> 
> *edited after a moment of clarity..


It is larger and heavier than the Victor that you have now. Just make sure that your 5lb tank is secure.


----------



## Kawi

Left C said:


> It is larger and heavier than the Victor that you have now. Just make sure that your 5lb tank is secure.


It would be my first, but thanks for the info! I'm 3/4 of the way through reading this post and all the links. Quite a brain workout.


----------



## Left C

Kawi said:


> It would be my first, but thanks for the info! I'm 3/4 of the way through reading this post and all the links. Quite a brain workout.


I'm sorry. I thought you were someone else. 

Anwar has some nice chrome plated dual stage stainless steel diaphragms regulators that have your choice of either a brass or chrome plated CGA-320 fitting and a 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT reducer already added.

His SGT500 is made from forged stainless steel and it is then chrome plated.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-73.html#post882862

SS parts: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-74.html#post883027


----------



## kali

SvenBoogie said:


> I can tell you that I tried using rubbing alcohol on the tarnish both outside and inside the valve.
> 
> It somewhat removed the tarnish on the outside, but made zero difference to the tarnish inside.
> 
> I emailed the seller and he offered to send me a new (I'm assuming he means new-er) valve if I return the one I received. I'll be out shipping, but I guess its my only option.


hey dude any new?


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> I'm sorry. I thought you were someone else.


leftc my dear friends ..his name's KAWI not KALI:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::smile:


----------



## SvenBoogie

kali said:


> hey dude any new?


Not yet, I sent back the valve I received on Monday, been out of town on vacation until today, will see what shows up next week.


----------



## bluediscus

SvenBoogie said:


> Ey yo Left C...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can a brotha get a number?
> 
> :hihi:


Hi SvenBoogie, I bought the same regulator from 1chemical last week, would you know what the output fitting on this regulator is? I'm thinking of just getting a set from SuMo or Rex but am not sure about the output size of the reg.


----------



## SvenBoogie

bluediscus said:


> Hi SvenBoogie, I bought the same regulator from 1chemical last week, would you know what the output fitting on this regulator is? I'm thinking of just getting a set from SuMo or Rex but am not sure about the output size of the reg.


To be honest, I don't. Since I'm still putting together everything I need to get the tank this is for going (I still need substrate, filters, and the remainder of the co2 system) I just took it out of the box, made sure it was more or less intact, and put it away for now. Sorry I can't be more help, if you can post pictures, LeftC can probably help you figure it out.


----------



## Left C

bluediscus said:


> Hi SvenBoogie, I bought the same regulator from 1chemical last week, would you know what the output fitting on this regulator is? I'm thinking of just getting a set from SuMo or Rex but am not sure about the output size of the reg.


The output on the regulator body has a 1/4" FPT port. Most of the regulators that we work with in this thread have the same port size.

The post body kit from SuMo includes the JBJ bubble counter and Rex's doesn't. Both have the excellent Ideal valve.


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> leftc my dear friends ..his name's KAWI not KALI:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::smile:


It's pretty normal for me to have a brain cell to misfire on occasion. :icon_lol:

And ... my name is Left C, not leftc. :hihi:

I only got one letter wrong. You got two caps and one space wrong. LMFAO!!!


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> It's pretty normal for me to have a brain cell to misfire on occasion. :icon_lol:
> 
> And ... my name is Left C, not leftc. :hihi:
> 
> I only got one letter wrong. You got two caps and one space wrong. LMFAO!!!


----------



## Left C

kali said:


>


I'm still snickering. That was a good laugh!


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> I'm still snickering. That was a good laugh!


i know i need to go back to school .!! this 's time i'll try to stay to get the GED ..LOL


----------



## Left C

kali said:


> i know i need to go back to school .!! this 's time i'll try to stay to get the GED ..LOL


You are pulling my leg now.


----------



## CL

Mine should be here wednesday. What number does that make me


----------



## Left C

clwatkins10 said:


> Mine should be here Wednesday. What number does that make me


Hi

You are now #49 in the club! :thumbsup:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214


----------



## rich815

Left C said:


> *VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*
> 
> #1 - Left C
> #2 - fordtrannyman
> #3 - Mishmosh
> #4 - bsmith782
> #5 - lescarpentier
> #6 - delevan
> #7 - Squawkbert
> #8 - c_sking
> #9 - SpeedEuphoria
> #10 - DaveT
> #11 - Ackdog
> #12 - eric_c
> #13 - Captain Hooked
> #14 - Bugman
> #15 - zzyzx85
> #16 - adstudio3d
> #17 - mnellis3023
> #18 - DataLifePlus
> #19 - cheefunk
> #20 - manofmanyfish
> #21 - cwilfinger
> #22 - plantfreak108
> #23 - herns
> #24 - rrrrramos
> #25 - james0816
> #26 - wuhungsix
> #27 - Complexity
> #28 - asil
> #29 - helgymatt
> #30 - lizziotti
> #31 - MarkMc
> #32 - tazdevil
> #33 - Darkblade48
> #34 - sunfire99
> #35 - mrkookm
> #36 - PRESTON4479
> #37 - lovingHDTV
> #38 - Homer_ Simpson
> #39 - bgzbgz
> #40 - wondabread
> #41 - SPECIAL||PLANS
> #42 - Jeff5614
> #43 - VisionQuest28
> #44 - j-gens
> #45 - kali
> #46 - smoq
> #47 - lushlife
> #48 - SvenBoogie
> #49 - clwatkins


How did I get dropped? You told me in a PM back on 5/29 I was #41....


----------



## Left C

rich815 said:


> How did I get dropped? You told me in a PM back on 5/29 I was #41....


PM sent.


----------



## michu

ahem. I was #42. pm was sent to me on 5/25. hehehe


----------



## VisionQuest28

michu said:


> ahem. I was #42. pm was sent to me on 5/25. hehehe


Uh oh...is there a mix up in the Pimp Club? Who has the strongest pimp hand??? lol


----------



## rich815

Ok, I'm #50 now then!


----------



## michu

I'm sure Jeff5614 has been wondering why I've been sporting #42 under my nick on the right. LOL

edit: err.. left. Military left. On top of my avatar. LOL

<---------------------------------------------------------------


----------



## Left C

I hang my head in shame. I have no idea how this happened. I simply made a boo-boo. :icon_redf


----------



## kali

ahem ..some wrong with Left C << (i got it right now) LMFAO


----------



## michu

ROFL! Sokay Left C. You're forgiven.


----------



## Jeff5614

michu said:


> I'm sure Jeff5614 has been wondering why I've been sporting #42 under my nick on the right. LOL
> 
> edit: err.. left. Military left. On top of my avatar. LOL
> 
> <---------------------------------------------------------------


lol, I hadn't even noticed but then I can't say I really remembered what number I am.


----------



## michu

Well, that's good to hear. I'd hate to think somebody thought me to be a crazy number thief. :tongue:


----------



## michu

So how 'bout a new list of numbers, Left C; so I don't steal somebody else's in the future. ~~~~~~~~


----------



## GTR

IMO all Victor Pimp members should be required to have an easily accessible link to a picture of their CO2 setup. I've only made it part way though all the pages in this thread and it's pretty darn image poor. lol 

SteveU


----------



## SvenBoogie

GTR said:


> IMO all Victor Pimp members should be required to have an easily accessible link to a picture of their CO2 setup. I've only made it part way though all the pages in this thread and it's pretty darn image poor. lol
> 
> SteveU


Well, that would be rather hard in some cases, such as mine, where I bought my regulator, but am still putting together the rest of the tank its going to be used for...


----------



## michu

I guess my new number is ----|
<---------------------------------|


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> So how 'bout a new list of numbers, Left C; so I don't steal somebody else's in the future. ~~~~~~~~


Hi, I just got in. What should we do to fix it? I'm really sorry about this. 

*Current List of Members*


Left C said:


> *VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR PIMP CLUB MEMBERS*
> 
> #1 - Left C
> #2 - fordtrannyman
> #3 - Mishmosh
> #4 - bsmith782
> #5 - lescarpentier
> #6 - delevan
> #7 - Squawkbert
> #8 - c_sking
> #9 - SpeedEuphoria
> #10 - DaveT
> #11 - Ackdog
> #12 - eric_c
> #13 - Captain Hooked
> #14 - Bugman
> #15 - zzyzx85
> #16 - adstudio3d
> #17 - mnellis3023
> #18 - DataLifePlus
> #19 - cheefunk
> #20 - manofmanyfish
> #21 - cwilfinger
> #22 - plantfreak108
> #23 - herns
> #24 - rrrrramos
> #25 - james0816
> #26 - wuhungsix
> #27 - Complexity
> #28 - asil
> #29 - helgymatt
> #30 - lizziotti
> #31 - MarkMc
> #32 - tazdevil
> #33 - Darkblade48
> #34 - sunfire99
> #35 - mrkookm
> #36 - PRESTON4479
> #37 - lovingHDTV
> #38 - Homer_ Simpson
> #39 - bgzbgz
> #40 - wondabread
> #41 - SPECIAL||PLANS
> #42 - Jeff5614
> #43 - VisionQuest28
> #44 - j-gens
> #45 - kali
> #46 - smoq
> #47 - lushlife
> #48 - SvenBoogie
> #49 - clwatkins
> #50 - rich815
> #51 - michu


----------



## GTR

So you can be a member if you don't have it hooked up and just keep it under your pillow or next to you instead of a teddy bear at night? lol

SteveU


----------



## michu

I just thought I knew what the "C" stood for in "Left C" ... now I know it's the


<embed src="http://media.entertonement.com/embed/PlayerText.swf" id="1_6ff125a4_86c3_11de_abd6_0015c5f4d4ea" name="PlayerText" flashvars="auto_play=0&clip_pid=rnmhqmzdhv&id=1_6ff125a4_86c3_11de_abd6_0015c5f4d4ea&meta_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.entertonement.com%2Fclips%2Frnmhqmzdhv.query%3Fimage_size%3Dflash" width="304" height="30" style="float: left; margin-right: 10px;" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" quality="high" bgcolor="#ffffff" wmode="transparent" align="middle" allowScriptAccess="sameDomain" allowFullScreen="false"></embed><a href="http://www.entertonement.com/clips/rnmhqmzdhv--The-CountDave-Chappelle-Dave-Chappelle-Killin'-Them-Softly-"><img alt="Blank" border="0" height="0" src="http://www.entertonement.com/widgets/img/clip/rnmhqmzdhv/1/1_6ff125a4_86c3_11de_abd6_0015c5f4d4ea/blank.gif" style="visibility: hidden; width: 0px; height: 0px; margin:0; padding:0; float:right" width="0" /></a>


----------



## michu

I'll take 51. Heck, I'm closer to 51 in age than the Summer of 42 anyway; although, I'm kinda partial to last x + 1.


----------



## GTR

Here it is. Had a diffuser and spare full tank here at the shop so it's on a 20g I keep here for trims. I'll be swapping this out for the tank at home once I get the stuff I need to split the output with two BC and NV.

The box is there because the dirty white wall behind it was flashing back.































SteveU


----------



## Left C

You're cracking me up, michu. That's really funny!


----------



## SvenBoogie

GTR said:


> So you can be a member if you don't have it hooked up and just keep it under your pillow or next to you instead of a teddy bear at night? lol
> 
> SteveU


Well sure, same as how you can be a member if you only post on the thread to complain and be condescending...


----------



## GTR

I'm sorry you see my posts that way. It was all done with a little lol in mind and not at all meant to belittle anyone, including you. I'll certainly try not to rile you up in the future. 

SteveU


----------



## michu

Goodness, lighten up guys. I took the posts to be funny. Of course, I'm in a hassle Left C mood right now because he's so deserving... 

I thought Jeff5614 and VisionQuest would join me in the roasting, but nothing.... YET.

Calling Jeff5614 and VisionQuest28.... yoooooohoooooo

Where are you guys?


----------



## Jeff5614

michu said:


> I'll take 51. Heck, I'm closer to 51 in age than the Summer of 42 anyway...


You said it not me, lol...:biggrin:


----------



## Jeff5614

GTR said:


> IMO all Victor Pimp members should be required to have an easily accessible link to a picture of their CO2 setup. I've only made it part way though all the pages in this thread and it's pretty darn image poor. lol
> 
> SteveU


I posted one somewhere back but here's the same bad pic.


----------



## michu

Great looking rig, GTR. I love all that chrome.

I need to take some decent pics of mine, someday, other than the blurry phone pics I've taken so far.


----------



## michu

Jeff5614 said:


> You said it not me, lol...:biggrin:


You're supposed to be helping me give Left C a hard time, not give ME a hard time. ROFL! Just wait. I'll getcha.


----------



## Jeff5614

True but your comment was just begging for a reply, lol. You can have # 42 if you like. I'm just happy to qualify as a member.


----------



## Left C

michu said:


> Goodness, lighten up guys. I took the posts to be funny. Of course, I'm in a hassle Left C mood right now because he's so deserving...


You know that I'm "Wild Over You."


----------



## michu

le haha Monsieur le Corned Boeuf


----------



## Left C

:icon_lol: le ha ha


----------



## michu

Left C, you'll be pleased to know that while I was in here plotting retribution upon your head and laughing my fool head off at your expense, my daughter backed my jeep into the tree at the end of our drive, taking out the back hatch door (whatever you call it), the driver side back window, plus the considerable damage to the tree! LOL Karma got me good this time.


----------



## GTR

Thanks for the pics. 

The reason I asked about the pictures is it seems my output is coming out at a upward angle. I'll be changing the configuration to have two BC's and two NV's. When I add all that length from the fittings I think it's going to be obviously point up. Not that it really matters, nobody looks under the stand but me anyway. lol

SteveU


----------



## CL

michu said:


> le haha Monsieur le Corned Boeuf


The haha Mister the corned beef?


----------



## michu

GTR said:


> So you can be a member if you don't have it hooked up and just keep it under your pillow or next to you instead of a teddy bear at night? lol
> 
> SteveU


Yes you can! Left C will give you a number that you can put under your pillow until you get it setup. You might want to add a bit of superglue, just in case. :hihi:


----------



## michu

The heck of it, GTR, is that it's all too pretty to put under the stand after you get a Victor. Unless, of course, you're hiding it from your spouse as seems to be the case of most of the addicts in this forum. :hihi:


----------



## michu

clwatkins10 said:


> The haha Mister the corned beef?


You had to have been there, clwatkins10. A laughing hyena said "le haha". Left C had just dubbed me a laughing hyena in response to my giving him such a hard time about his little mistake.


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Thanks for the pics.
> 
> The reason I asked about the pictures is it seems my output is coming out at a upward angle. I'll be changing the configuration to have two BC's and two NV's. When I add all that length from the fittings I think it's going to be obviously point up. Not that it really matters, nobody looks under the stand but me anyway. lol
> 
> SteveU


May I ask, where did you get your VTS253A? My output on the VTS253A's and D that I have come out at 7 o'clock. An elbow or down at 7 o'clock works well. Here's some of mine.




















I've been using Hagen's Elite 2 way air valve to set the CO2 bubble rate in two 10g aquariums and it doesn't leak CO2 at a low psi. I've tested it with a spray-on soap solution. The specs say that it will not leak up to 5 psi. 

I have the CO2 regulator set on 5 psi and I turn the metering valve low. Then I adjust the CO2 bubble rate with the adjustment knobs on the Elite. I use the Hagen ladders as diffusers and as bubble counters. The bubble rate stays very consistant.

It has been working great so far. It is only a few dollars for the Elite air valve. Hagen makes 2 way up to 5 way air valves.

2 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011780020101
3 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011790020101
4 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011800020101
5 way: http://www.hagen.com/usa/aquatic/product.cfm?CAT=1&SUBCAT=101&PROD_ID=01011810020101

It really works great for the $.


----------



## CL

Wow, left C. Do you really need all those regs? haha. How many tanks do you have?


----------



## VisionQuest28

michu said:


> I just thought I knew what the "C" stood for in "Left C" ... now I know it's the
> 
> 
> <embed src="http://media.entertonement.com/embed/PlayerText.swf" id="1_6ff125a4_86c3_11de_abd6_0015c5f4d4ea" name="PlayerText" flashvars="auto_play=0&clip_pid=rnmhqmzdhv&id=1_6ff125a4_86c3_11de_abd6_0015c5f4d4ea&meta_url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.entertonement.com%2Fclips%2Frnmhqmzdhv.query%3Fimage_size%3Dflash" width="304" height="30" style="float: left; margin-right: 10px;" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" pluginspage="http://www.macromedia.com/go/getflashplayer" quality="high" bgcolor="#ffffff" wmode="transparent" align="middle" allowScriptAccess="sameDomain" allowFullScreen="false"></embed><a href="http://www.entertonement.com/clips/rnmhqmzdhv--The-CountDave-Chappelle-Dave-Chappelle-Killin'-Them-Softly-"><img alt="Blank" border="0" height="0" src="http://www.entertonement.com/widgets/img/clip/rnmhqmzdhv/1/1_6ff125a4_86c3_11de_abd6_0015c5f4d4ea/blank.gif" style="visibility: hidden; width: 0px; height: 0px; margin:0; padding:0; float:right" width="0" /></a>


Now that was funny! Im glad someone pointed me to this, it would have been a shame to miss it! So i think you might be right Michu, it stands for Count, or maybe its C-nile??? :hihi:


----------



## michu

I can't stop ROFL @ Left C-nile!!! That's the best yet!


----------



## Left C

clwatkins10 said:


> Wow, left C. Do you really need all those regs? haha. How many tanks do you have?


Those three are running four aquariums. I have three more aquariums to set up.


----------



## michu

VisionQuest28 said:


> <snip>, or maybe its C-nile??? :hihi:


Definitely Left C-Nile. He forgot to reply to your post.


----------



## VisionQuest28

Eh, he is probably off making his new list, and checking it over and then forgetting halfway through what he was doing and having to start all over again...


----------



## GTR

Left C... Had to find a real clock to see where 7 o'clock was. lol

I think that's about where it is. I'll look closer at it tomorrow (it's at my shop).

What I was hoping for was to be able to get two BC's side by side that would sit upright and not tilted.

Thanks...
SteveU


----------



## Left C

I'm sorry guys. My computer was so slow last night that I cut the thing off.

Left C-nile :hihi: That fits.


----------



## GTR

Parker NVs came in today. The JBJ BCs came in last month from overseas. Now I just need to get on the stick and order the fittings the Kali was so kind enough to help me out with so I can get this thing on the tank at home. 

I might actually be able to tell that the knob is turning on the Parker. Should I send the BCs to the chrome shop? lol










SteveU


----------



## rich815

I really think we should consider changing the name to:

VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR *GEEK *CLUB :icon_mrgr


----------



## VisionQuest28

Really, i think the whole forum should be The Planted Geek, not tank. lol

GTR, cant wait to hear what you think of those Parker Valves. Ive been eyeballing them for weeks now on ebay. But i picked up a couple of swagelok's, so i havent pulled the trigger on the parkers.


----------



## GTR

The reason I went with the Parkers is that with the Fabco it's almost impossible for me to tell if I'm turning the knob or if my fingers are just spinning on it. I think a knurled knob would solve that. Heck, before I found this board I thought my JBJ was was nice . lol


SteveU


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Parker NVs came in today. The JBJ BCs came in last month from overseas. Now I just need to get on the stick and order the fittings the Kali was so kind enough to help me out with so I can get this thing on the tank at home.


Those Parker valves are nice, aren't they? They are cheaper than the Fabco valve too. The Parker valve is $18 shipped and the Fabco is $22 - $23 plus shipping.

This link shows the parts needed. Your Parker valve mounts identical to the Ideal valve. In other words, it uses the same fittings. 

It should help you. The link shows a variety of brass parts to assemble your regulator as well as some SS parts.



GTR said:


> Should I send the BCs to the chrome shop? lol
> 
> 
> SteveU


I'd like to find some BC's in chrome too. :thumbsup:


----------



## Left C

rich815 said:


> I really think we should consider changing the name to:
> 
> VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR *GEEK *CLUB :icon_mrgr


I don't have a problem with that. I think that is a good name. I never really liked the PIMP part of the name.

Should we set up a POLL?


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> I don't have a problem with that. I think that is a good name. I never really liked the PIMP part of the name.
> 
> Should we set up a POLL?


I totally agree Left C. Set it up, I'll vote for Geek.

Do you have your Parker Valves up and running?


----------



## GTR

Left C... thanks for the link. I emailed oregonaquadesign but saw another member was having problems getting a response so maybe I need a backup plan.

FTM... if you were asking me about the Parkers... no, I need parts to split the output and use the JBJ BC's on both.

SteveU


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Left C... thanks for the link. I emailed oregonaquadesign but saw another member was having problems getting a response so maybe I need a backup plan....
> 
> SteveU


Do you have a good plumbing supply store near you? 

I printed some pictures of regulators and parts. I took the pictures along with my regulator and solenoid to the one near me. They fixed me right up. On some parts, they didn't have the exact part that I was looking for, but their parts accomplished the same thing. 

The link that I sent you shows different ways to build one with different combinations of parts.


----------



## Left C

rich815 said:


> I really think we should consider changing the name to:
> 
> VICTOR and DUAL STAGE REGULATOR *GEEK *CLUB :icon_mrgr





Left C said:


> I don't have a problem with that. I think that is a good name. I never really liked the PIMP part of the name.
> 
> Should we set up a POLL?





fordtrannyman said:


> I totally agree Left C. Set it up, I'll vote for Geek.


Should you like to vote, you can find the poll here.


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> Those Parker valves are nice, aren't they? They are cheaper than the Fabco valve too. The Parker valve is $18 shipped and the Fabco is $22 - $23 plus shipping.


Do you have your Parker Valves up and running? Are these considered medium flow valves? How well do they work by comparison to Swagelok and Fabco?


----------



## Left C

fordtrannyman said:


> Do you have your Parker Valves up and running? Are these considered medium flow valves? How well do they work by comparison to Swagelok and Fabco?


Torpedobarb has one running. He really likes it.

I haven't tried it yet. I'll swap it out this weekend with a similar Swagelok and see if there is much difference.

The specs on the Parker 2F-NMA-BN-B-V valve are very similar to a Swagelok SS-2MA4-MH. Look for the 2F-NMA valve's specs in the Parker pdf above. Physically, they look very similar.

I have the chrome plated brass version of that valve to compare. It is part number B-2MA4-MH, which isn't listed on Swagelok's site. It is a special order valve. It has the Vernier caliper handle too. I like that feature. Here is the B-2MA4 which doesn't have the Vc handle, but the specs are virtually the same.

Did you notice that there are only two Parker valves left?


EDIT: The Parker valve and the Swagelok's are medium flow valves. The similar Swagelok that I have running will hold as low as 3 bpm very stable.


----------



## Darkblade48

Haven't really had time to setup my pressurized setup, until today. Here it is!


----------



## airborne_r6

Left C said:


> Did you notice that there are only two Parker valves left?


Not anymore, they are mine, all mine.


----------



## CL

Left C said:


> valves left?


I'm glad that I got mine in time :icon_mrgr I bet the seller is wondering why these got so popular all of the sudden lol. I mean, how many were bought from members of pt.net?


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> Haven't really had time to setup my pressurized setup, until today. Here it is!


That's very nice!


----------



## kali

i got mine parker done and ran for almost a week to see how it is ..turn out it really good , hold the BB right, way better than milwaukee and cillpard NV. at first i was doubt it will turn out this good . but till the last min before i break down my tank i was really happy with it . i am glad that i got that parker while it still hot . lol shoot its all gone now.


----------



## kali

airborne_r6 said:


> Not anymore, they are mine, all mine.


i hope svenboogie got his exchange NV before the seller sold out .!! but then funny who will get the one that boogie sent back ..:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:


----------



## airborne_r6

On another note, I just acquired 2 Victor HPT270, 1 Victor GPT270, 1 Concoa 2123551 (dual stage and perfect for CO2) and 1 Air Products regulators. I am still trying to find info on the Air Products one but all of the others just need CGA 320 fittings and the appropriate outlet fittings and they will be in the Swap & Shop.


----------



## herns

airborne_r6 said:


> On another note, I just acquired 2 Victor HPT270, 1 Victor GPT270, 1 Concoa 2123551 (dual stage and perfect for CO2)


I have a Concoa 212 series too and its a very nice regulator. I like it much more better than my 2 Victor regulators.

I also like the Victor SGT Series. Left C, I think had a couple of those reg.

This is my Concoa 212. I got this in Ebay for just $9.99 + $14 shipping. Brand new.


----------



## Darkblade48

herns said:


> This is my Concoa 212. I got this in Ebay for just $9.99 + $14 shipping. Brand new.


Stop bragging


----------



## GTR

For my Victor reg, Parker NV and JBJ BC I need 1/8 to 10-32? Where does that go?

SteveU


----------



## kali

GTR said:


> For my Victor reg, Parker NV and JBJ BC I need 1/8 to 10-32? Where does that go?
> 
> SteveU


you only need th 1l8 to 10-32 if you want the check valve between the jbj bubble counter and the parker, if you dont want the clippard check valve , u dont need that

cilppard check valve fitting 10-32
parker 1/8
jbj bubble counter 1/8


----------



## kali




----------



## GTR

Thanks for the pic. So in your case you needed two, one for each end of the check valve?

I was messing with fittings and everything seemed ok, but since I don't have the check valves yet it had me cornfused. 

SteveU


----------



## kali

GTR said:


> Thanks for the pic. So in your case you needed two, one for each end of the check valve?
> 
> I was messing with fittings and everything seemed ok, but since I don't have the check valves yet it had me cornfused.
> 
> SteveU


awww you dont really need the clippard check valve if you dont want to ,since the jbj bubble counter already got in build in..i just went another extra mile on mine , better safe than sorry that's all...but if you do then yes you will need 2 1/8 to 10-32 for each end of the cllipard check valve


----------



## GTR

I also have a couple inline brass CV. On the tank at home it has the JBJ BC and I have an inline CV right at the DIY reactor.


----------



## kali

GTR said:


> I also have a couple inline brass CV. On the tank at home it has the JBJ BC and I have an inline CV right at the DIY reactor.


LOL now you remind me ...i do got one of that right at the DYI reactor too . didnt really looking back there since the reactor not leak anymore .


----------



## GTR

That's where I disconnect the reactor when it needs burping after a WC. I have enough water tubing to tilt it on it's side but just enough CO2 line on it for it's working position.

SteveU


----------



## CL

Guess what?


----------



## kali

clwatkins10 said:


> Guess what?


 nice !!! you not gonna do the elbow 90 degree?


----------



## CL

kali said:


> nice !!! you not gonna do the elbow 90 degree?


no, I don't need to. The solenoid is exactly opposite of the co2 input.


----------



## sebdtw

*DS Matheson + Swagelok SS-SS2-A + Parker Solenoid*

Hi Folks,
Month and a half after I bought most of the major pieces, I finally got the system running. So here's a pic!

Really, I just wanted to show off the chrome bottle. Its almost the same size as a 2liter soda bottle; originally made for nitrous boosting a sport bike. It only holds 2.5pounds, but its too pretty to give up. It took the welding shop a few extra days to find the right thread adapters to convert it to CO2. 

Thanks to the fellow pimpster who sold me the reg and needle valve (at a bargain!), those would have taken me forever to shop for on my own. The Parker solenoid is not shown in the photo because it broke after a couple of days of use. 

The regulator, which probably weighs as much as my full CO2 bottle, is shown supported by a green spray bottle -- that was only for the photo-op; it is now back to being supported by a huge log I had laying near the fireplace.

Thanks for everybody's contributions, I learned it all here! Now I want to join the club, give me a pimp number, please...


----------



## herns

Darkblade48 said:


> Stop bragging


I cant read what you've type in.:icon_mrgr

Concoa 212:flick:


----------



## CL

Awesome cylinder sebdtw!


----------



## plantfreak108

Does anyone know if you can use the oatey thread sealant/joint compound model:31226 without any problems?


----------



## rich815

Just thought I'd pop in to say I finally installed my VTS 253A yesterday to replace my JBJ regulator on my 72 gal tank. The JBJ has worked fine but I got such a great deal on my Victor that I bought it without a second thought and figure why not I have a dual regulator on my more expensive flora/fauna "show tank" to prevent those end of tanks dumps that "theoretically" happen. Who knows? I also found a great deal on a Rex Grigg regulator not long ago too and got that to replace the Milwaukee on my 60P tank. Both the JBJ and the Milwaukee had been working fine but when you stumble upon a good deal on the Grigg and the Victor you jump. :hihi:

Now I have a JBJ and Milwaukee sitting around (darn things look like miniatures next to the Victor). Guess I'll sell them off but part of me feels I should keep one as a back-up in case of problems with the others. Then I think, what? problems with the Victor or the Grigg? Practically unheard of!


----------



## Cosmic Trout

*pressurized CO2 set up*

After several weeks of collecting dust under my bed i finally put together all the parts for my pressurized CO2 system. Now I'm hoping i can have a decent planted aquarium.


----------



## donaldbyrd

So any suggestions on where to find a VTS253A-320 ?


----------



## CL

I got this baby in the mail today


----------



## GTR

Couldn't find the exact parts I wanted but at least I have it split and leak free. Now I just need to decide if I'm going to use that HK diffuser or just build another reactor.











SteveU


----------



## CL

Nice diy manifold, Steve!


----------



## kali

GTR said:


> Couldn't find the exact parts I wanted but at least I have it split and leak free. Now I just need to decide if I'm going to use that HK diffuser or just build another reactor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SteveU


wow not bad man!!! i like it .


----------



## Darkblade48

Cosmic Trout said:


> After several weeks of collecting dust under my bed i finally put together all the parts for my pressurized CO2 system. Now I'm hoping i can have a decent planted aquarium.


What is that strange thing in front of the solenoid?



GTR said:


> Couldn't find the exact parts I wanted but at least I have it split and leak free. Now I just need to decide if I'm going to use that HK diffuser or just build another reactor.


What parts did you use to build your own manifold?

Also, I'm using a HK diffuser with no problems


----------



## GTR

t's and elbows and nipples. Couldn't find but one hex nipple so I used a street elbow.

It's really fine as it is. I'm the only one that will ever see it under the stand. Tomorrows the day I sneak it into the house. lol

SteveU


----------



## kali

GTR said:


> Tomorrows the day I sneak it into the house. lol
> 
> SteveU


imma tell your woman!!! call me snitch


----------



## donaldbyrd

donaldbyrd said:


> So any suggestions on where to find a VTS253A-320 ?


anyone?


----------



## herns

*Victor VTS253A-320*



donaldbyrd said:


> So any suggestions on where to find a VTS253A-320 ?


Here's a very nice and rare, Victor VTS253A-320. The only one I've seen in Ebay.
Item No. 270444972160.


----------



## Left C

sebdtw said:


> Hi Folks,
> Month and a half after I bought most of the major pieces, I finally got the system running. So here's a pic!
> 
> Really, I just wanted to show off the chrome bottle. Its almost the same size as a 2liter soda bottle; originally made for nitrous boosting a sport bike. It only holds 2.5pounds, but its too pretty to give up. It took the welding shop a few extra days to find the right thread adapters to convert it to CO2.
> 
> Thanks to the fellow pimpster who sold me the reg and needle valve (at a bargain!), those would have taken me forever to shop for on my own. The Parker solenoid is not shown in the photo because it broke after a couple of days of use.
> 
> The regulator, which probably weighs as much as my full CO2 bottle, is shown supported by a green spray bottle -- that was only for the photo-op; it is now back to being supported by a huge log I had laying near the fireplace.
> 
> Thanks for everybody's contributions, I learned it all here! Now I want to join the club, give me a pimp number, please...


Hi sebdtw

Nice setup!

You are member #51!


----------



## GTR

herns said:


> Here's a very nice and rare, Victor VTS253A-320. The only one I've seen in Ebay.
> Item No. 270444972160.


That seller took lessons in item title keyword spamming. lol



> javascript:;EHEIM ECCO 2236 CANISTER RENA FILSTAR MARINELAND CO2



SteveU


----------



## herns

GTR said:


> That seller took lessons in item title keyword spamming. lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SteveU


I think that is a good skill in putting up a title for item search.
Heres another from famous aquaticmagic of Singapore.

Ebay Item: 250305624190
Drop Checker - CO2 pH Test Live Aquarium Plant Diffuser


----------



## michu

At least aquaticmagic's is legal.

Great setup GTR. Beautimous!


----------



## bluediscus

*parker metering valve source*



airborne_r6 said:


> Not anymore, they are mine, all mine.


Anyone know of a good source for these or possible replacements? I should have ordered more when I had the chance...


----------



## GTR

Actually if that listing I posted was reported eBay would pull it for keyword spamming.

But back to mine.

The plan was to take it home yesterday but I wasn't really in the mood to cut filter lines to make the swap.

It's running here at the shop on a 20g. Got in this morning and the bubble count was going nuts. Low pressure gauge was pegged. It looks like the guts of the working pressure side is shot. The only way to reduce the low pressure side is to bleed it off. Turning the adjustment knob I hear something that sounds like a diaphragm making noise.

Pulled the lines off and it's dry inside, thought maybe the check valve failed. Solenoid is fine.

SteveU


----------



## kali

thats why always get another check valve between bb counter and NV , better safe than sorry . awww i hope you'll find out whats happend and got it fix.!!


GTR said:


> Actually if that listing I posted was reported eBay would pull it for keyword spamming.
> 
> But back to mine.
> 
> The plan was to take it home yesterday but I wasn't really in the mood to cut filter lines to make the swap.
> 
> It's running here at the shop on a 20g. Got in this morning and the bubble count was going nuts. Low pressure gauge was pegged. It looks like the guts of the working pressure side is shot. The only way to reduce the low pressure side is to bleed it off. Turning the adjustment knob I hear something that sounds like a diaphragm making noise.
> 
> Pulled the lines off and it's dry inside, thought maybe the check valve failed. Solenoid is fine.
> 
> SteveU


----------



## GTR

Well other than send it to some guy named Bill in Oklahoma I'm at a loss as what to do with this thing now.

It could have been the JBJ check valve failure but like I said it seems everything inside was dry.

When I bleed of the pressure and then close down the NV again the low pressure gauge moves up at about the speed of the second hand on a clock.

SteveU


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Well other than send it to some guy named Bill in Oklahoma I'm at a loss as what to do with this thing now.
> 
> It could have been the JBJ check valve failure but like I said it seems everything inside was dry.
> 
> When I bleed off the pressure and then close down the NV again the low pressure gauge moves up at about the speed of the second hand on a clock.
> 
> SteveU


Bummer!

This is the first failure that I've heard about.

Could your local Victor dealer send it to someone closer that is a Victor tech?


----------



## kali

ohhhh so bill in OK is a victor tech? i was wondering when i read that . lol


----------



## GTR

Just comes up as the No 1 result in Google. lol

But know I'm question what happened. Tried several times this morning to get it to adjust properly but always ended with it pegged at 30. Just went back there and the timer has shut of all the lights and CO2. Decided to unscrew the BC's so if they're the problem it wont get worse overnight. Set the BC's upright and a piece of glass and 10 mins later there's a water drop on the glass.

So if the CV failed, just a little, wouldn't that take out the solenoid?

Then just for snitz and giggles I turned the solenoid back on, blew off the pressure and then closed the NV. Low pressure is now adjusting again. I don't have a clue what's inside the regulator. Any soft seals that might have hung up when wet, then sat all day a dried out.

Regardless, it needs to go in for some looking at. At home I have a pH contoller but to have working pressure there go from 2 to who-knows-what could be the end of all fish life as I know it.

SteveU


----------



## Left C

I've never opened one up to see what is in them. There is a post with service manuals that might help. http://www.thermadyne.com/victor/component/option,com_doclib/task,/id,/Itemid,237/categoryID,25/

Let me know if you can't find the correct manual.


----------



## GTR

Thanks, I actually found your previous post where you linked all that good info in this thread somewhere around post 1071 or something. It came up in a Google search of Victor regulator repair.

It's already on a UPS truck and on it's way to the clinic for sick Victors. lol

My 20g trim tank will be fine without it, if not, oh well. 

SteveU


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Thanks, I actually found your previous post where you linked all that good info in this thread somewhere around post 1071 or something. It came up in a Google search of Victor regulator repair.
> 
> It's already on a UPS truck and on it's way to the clinic for sick Victors. lol
> 
> My 20g trim tank will be fine without it, if not, oh well.
> 
> SteveU


I hope that it works out. Sending it to a knowledgeable person is a very good idea.

My local welding supply has a Victor specialist that he sends his Victor equipment repairs to. He told me that Victor has many parts that are practically the same, but somewhat different so that they will work only on a certain particular regulator. You really need to know your stuff to repair them, he said.


----------



## VisionQuest28

Not on the current topic, but...i just picked up a cylinder on ebay, so im down to needing a bubble counter and then the connection/adapter pieces...getting close finally!


----------



## CL

VisionQuest28 said:


> Not on the current topic, but...i just picked up a cylinder on ebay, so im down to needing a bubble counter and then the connection/adapter pieces...getting close finally!


SuMo has the connection pieces you need, most likely.


----------



## Left C

VisionQuest28 said:


> Not on the current topic, but...i just picked up a cylinder on ebay, so im down to needing a bubble counter and then the connection/adapter pieces...getting close finally!


If you go with a needle/metering valve with 1/8" FPT and the JBJ bubble counter has 1/8" NPT; all you need is a 1/8" MPT nipple or hex nipple to connect them together.

For $16.25 shipped, you can get a JBJ bubble counter. Item number:	250306187549


----------



## VisionQuest28

I talked with mike in the past at SuMo about getting the parts i needed. I have a 1/4" metering valve, and im not sure exactly how im going to set this up yet. Originally i was going to be putting the cylinder and regulator in the closet and running line to the tank, so i was going with an inline bubble counter. Im not so sure on that now. And i have to finish gathering parts for the aquarium anyway, but atleast im getting very close to having my co2 system put together!


----------



## GTR

If I was going to have the cylinder and regulator remote from the tank I'd have 2 BC's. One with the equipment so I could make the adjustments and one with the tank so a quick visual that all is well would be easy.

SteveU


----------



## chunkypeanutlove

This is my first time posting.

I had a question about regulators. I am starting a 29g tank, upgrading from my 10g. I am planning a heavily planted tank. I have acquired 3 regulars so therefore now a CO2 injection is monetarily within my reach. Which one is the best to use for my purposes. 

These two i have found info on:
Victor Equipment Company Model SR 450 D
Victor Equipment Company Model VTS 250 C

I cannot find any information about:
Victor Specialty Product Division Model SGS 160 C

I am planning on attaching an adapter for a 20 oz paintball gun tank since I am in college and will only have the CO2 tank for 2 years. In this situation the paintball gun tank seems like the cheaper option.


----------



## Darkblade48

I am not too sure about the model #'s on the Victor, but I imagine Left C will be able to clarify 



chunkypeanutlove said:


> I am planning on attaching an adapter for a 20 oz paintball gun tank since I am in college and will only have the CO2 tank for 2 years. In this situation the paintball gun tank seems like the cheaper option.


For a 29g tank, I don't think a 20 oz paintball tank will last 2 years. It would be more economical for you to get a 10 lb tank instead. 

This holds even more solidly if you have any plan to upgrade to a larger CO2 in the future. Why buy the adapters, etc for a paintball setup if you are just going to upgrade in the future?


----------



## GTR

SGS 160

?


http://74.125.155.132/search?q=cach..."SGS+160"&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us&lr=lang_en


----------



## chunkypeanutlove

Yes, that one exactly.


----------



## Left C

VisionQuest28 said:


> I talked with mike in the past at SuMo about getting the parts i needed. I have a 1/4" metering valve, and im not sure exactly how im going to set this up yet. Originally i was going to be putting the cylinder and regulator in the closet and running line to the tank, so i was going with an inline bubble counter. Im not so sure on that now. And i have to finish gathering parts for the aquarium anyway, but atleast im getting very close to having my co2 system put together!


Clippard has 1/8" FPT and 1/4" FPT solenoids. The part numbers are listed in this thread. You can find the post from the first page table of contents.

Here are the solenoid parts.

These parts can all be found online at http://www.clippard.com/store/ or from your local Clippard dealer. 

*Solenoid (You will need to purchase a grounded power cord separately)*
1/8" FPT: Part # MME-2PDS-D110 - $19.70 ea. 
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2PDS-D110
or
1/4" FPT: Part # MME-2PQS-D110 - $19.70 ea.
http://clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=MME-2QDS-D110

If you do not want to wire your Solenoid, you can order the above solenoid and then order either the 6’ or 15’ DIN connector with a grounded power cord and LED so you can replace the stock DIN connector and Led.
*DIN connector with 6’ (152 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P6 - $13.00 each
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P6

*DIN connector with 15’ (381 mm) grounded power cord and LED*
Part # CC-BLM-P15 - $22.00
http://www.clippard.com/store/display_details.asp?sku=CC-BLM-P15


You should be able to find 1/4" NPT parts at many plumbing supply store.


----------



## VisionQuest28

I remember we talked about this a couple of months ago, and i was confused then too. haha I bought one of the 1/8" parker solenoids off of ebay, and i have a swagelok 1/4" metering valve. I was confused on whether i needed to either buy a 1/4" solenoid or if i could use an 1/4" to 1/8" adapter??? I kinda think you told me both, but im not sure? lol


----------



## Left C

VisionQuest28 said:


> I remember we talked about this a couple of months ago, and i was confused then too. haha I bought one of the 1/8" parker solenoids off of ebay, and i have a swagelok 1/4" metering valve. I was confused on whether i needed to either buy a 1/4" solenoid or if i could use an 1/4" to 1/8" adapter??? I kinda think you told me both, but im not sure? lol


I didn't get the Parker solenoid, so I've never seen one in person. I don't know how it connects.

There are various 1/4" NPT x 1/8" NPT male, female and male/female reducers/adapters. You can see some in the following link.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-54.html#post838257

You can either use an elbow or you can mount it straight out. You can view the parts and vision what you want to do.

Another option is to make some copies of the various parts and regulators. Then take your regulator, solenoid and metering valve to you local plumbing supply and they should be able to fix you up.

I just purchased a 1/4" SS Swagelok metering valve with a Vernier caliper handle. I may use SS parts when I assemble it.


----------



## Darkblade48

If you use a 1/4" solenoid, then you won't need any adapters to go from your solenoid to your metering valve.

Alternatively, if you use the 1/8" solenoid, then you will need a 1/8" to 1/4" (the same as a 1/4" to 1/8") adapter to go from your solenoid to your metering valve.

Edit: I have the Parker solenoid from eBay, and it is 1/8", for reference.


----------



## VisionQuest28

yeah thanks guys. im anxious to get this system put together. funny thing though is i will have the co2 system together before i have the rest of the aquarium together...i still need lights and a filter. Really i need to actually pick which of several empty tanks i want to set up...but that stuff will be the easy part!


----------



## GTR

Well the diagnosis is that my Victor will live on. lol After being in ICU for a day it's on it's way back to me in good working order. Seems there were some metal shavings inside that could have come for repeatedly screw and unscrewing the low pressure adjustment knob.

Orlando from GLA was very helpful and a big thanks to him!!! Also had Orlando add the check valves between the Parker NV's and the JBJ BC's. Never had a problem with the check valve built into the JBJ BC's but who knows, after all it is JBJ. He also rebuilt the manifold for me using all like parts. Locally I couldn't find but one hex nipple so I had to use close nipples instead.

So now I need to build a second DIY reactor since the main reason I got this thing was to have a reactor on each of the XP3's in my 90 and have full control of CO2 to each with independent NV's and BC's. I have signs of low CO2 at one end of the tank. If I split the output I think I'd lose much of the velocity/circulation.

SteveU


----------



## kali

glad your victor came back to life ..orlando is the man for this hobby. about low co2 at other end of your tank !?!? why not use some power head?


----------



## GTR

kali said:


> glad your victor came back to life ..orlando is the man for this hobby. about low co2 at other end of your tank !?!? why not use some power head?


I added the second Rena to get the powerhead out.

I can't deliver much more CO2 through the single reactor. By the end of the light cycle CO2 has build up in the reactor and starts gurgling. My thinking is if it's ok on the one side now if I just get better circulation I'll need more CO2 overall anyway once it dispersed better.

Besides, I have a pretty new (to me) regulator and have went to the trouble to split the output. lol

SteveU


----------



## Jeff5614

There's a nice looking VTS253 on Ebay if anyone is interested. The item number is 220470822014. Here's a link also.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Victor-VTS253B-...in_0?hash=item335515c47e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14


----------



## SvenBoogie

VisionQuest28 said:


> Not on the current topic, but...i just picked up a cylinder on ebay, so im down to needing a bubble counter and then the connection/adapter pieces...getting close finally!


Heh, I'm actually down to needing just the connection/adapter pieces alone (and the co2 tank, which I can get locally whenever I sort out the whole connections thing...)


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Well the diagnosis is that my Victor will live on. lol After being in ICU for a day it's on it's way back to me in good working order. Seems there were some metal shavings inside that could have come for repeatedly screw and unscrewing the low pressure adjustment knob.
> 
> Orlando from GLA was very helpful and a big thanks to him!!! Also had Orlando add the check valves between the Parker NV's and the JBJ BC's. Never had a problem with the check valve built into the JBJ BC's but who knows, after all it is JBJ. He also rebuilt the manifold for me using all like parts. Locally I couldn't find but one hex nipple so I had to use close nipples instead.
> 
> So now I need to build a second DIY reactor since the main reason I got this thing was to have a reactor on each of the XP3's in my 90 and have full control of CO2 to each with independent NV's and BC's. I have signs of low CO2 at one end of the tank. If I split the output I think I'd lose much of the velocity/circulation.
> 
> SteveU


I am very glad that you got your Victor regulator going and it wasn't anything very serious nor costly.


----------



## herns

----


----------



## herns

Jeff5614 said:


> There's a nice looking VTS253 on Ebay if anyone is interested. The item number is 220470822014. Here's a link also.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/Victor-VTS253B-...in_0?hash=item335515c47e&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14


Heres another VTS 253A-320. Item number:380109577362. 
Its a bit pricey though.


----------



## Left C

Good gosh! That new VTS253A-320 is $195 including shipping!!! There is no way that I would purchase this regulator at that price even though Thermadyne's list price is almost 4 times that.

It is like the new VTS253A-320 (Item #: 270444972160) that was for sale for $155.35 a few weeks ago. The listing doesn't show that it was sold.

I paid $60 plus shipping for this new VTS253D-320 not that long ago.


----------



## Left C

Since the name change poll was a tie; let's keep the name of the club the same. OK?


----------



## kali

Left C said:


> Since the name change poll was a tie; let's keep the name of the club the same. OK?


i think it all up to you since you 're the founder of this club!!roud:


----------



## GTR

Somehow I now have a Victor split with two NV's, two CV's, two BC's feeding both XP3's with their own CO2 reactor.

It was tough, I only had 1:15 to complete the changeover. lol

Still need to do some fine tuning on the spray bars to get better distribution. I just about had the BC set with one reactor so the pH controller was just acting as a safety device. Glad I have it since I'm not sure what to expect with the dual reactor setup.

SteveU


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Somehow I now have a Victor split with two NV's, two CV's, two BC's feeding both XP3's with their own CO2 reactor.
> 
> It was tough, I only had 1:15 to complete the changeover. lol
> 
> Still need to do some fine tuning on the spray bars to get better distribution. I just about had the BC set with one reactor so the pH controller was just acting as a safety device. Glad I have it since I'm not sure what to expect with the dual reactor setup.
> 
> SteveU


All this is for one aquarium, right?

You can get a drop cord that you can plug two or more devices into it, electrical plug-in splitter, power strip, etc. This way you can plug in both solenoids and use the pH controller to control both of them.

EDIT: This way you can control the CO2. Like, if one side needs more CO2 than the other, you have a way to control it.


----------



## rich815

And it's sold at that price AS-IS!



Left C said:


> Good gosh! That new VTS253A-320 is $195 including shipping!!! There is no way that I would purchase this regulator at that price even though Thermadyne's list price is almost 4 times that.
> 
> It is like the new VTS253A-320 (Item #: 270444972160) that was for sale for $155.35 a few weeks ago. The listing doesn't show that it was sold.
> 
> I paid $60 plus shipping for this new VTS253D-320 not that long ago.


----------



## GTR

Rich, guess I'm being a little vague.

One tank, one cylinder, one regulator, one solenoid and one pH controller split to deliver CO2 into two reactors with complete independent control of each.

Kinda like this but a few changes have been made to the manifold.










SteveU


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Rich, guess I'm being a little vague.
> 
> One tank, one cylinder, one regulator, one solenoid and one pH controller split to deliver CO2 into two reactors with complete independent control of each.
> 
> Kinda like this but a few changes have been made to the manifold.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SteveU


Sorry ... My mistake. I thought that you had two solenoids as well as two NV, two BC and two reactors run by just one regulator and one pH controller. That's what I envisioned for some reason. It's been a long day.


----------



## GTR

Me too, you're not Rich. lol


----------



## Left C

GTR said:


> Me too, you're not Rich. lol


Thanks! That cracked me up. :icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

*Carbon Dioxide Cylinder Adapter CGA-320 To CGA-580 Argon/Nitrogen/Inert Gases Regulator*

http://www.weldfabulous.com/Cutting...ters/Western-806-Carbon-Dioxide-p7540779.html

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/tls/1355907569.html

http://www.arizonatools.com/tools/welding-cylinder-tools-and-adapters/detail/WESWD-806/

http://cgi.ebay.com/Western-#806-Ac...ItemQQimsxZ20090814?IMSfp=TL090814152002r4981

PART NO. 806 http://www.westernenterprises.com/enterprises/cylinder_adaptors.php


*EDIT:* 9/10/09 - It is OK to use CO2 with regulators that originally used inert gases and have the CGA-580 fitting. You either need the adapter like those above or swap the CGA-580 fitting on it with a CGA-320 nut and nipple.


----------



## Left C

Here is a stainless steel CGA-320 nut and nipple. Item number: 380125416726

I got one and it is nice.


----------



## herns

*Concoa 212 Series*

Hello Left C,

Finally, here it is. The $9.99 brand new Concoa deal on Ebay.:hihi:

The #3: SS-2-ME Male Elbow wouldnt work the way I wanted to be since the 1/4" port on the Concoa is on 9 o'clock. So it wouldnt run sideway to the left. I do not like the assembly running forward.( on Z axis). 

I can use the elbow on the parker so the bc is on 90 deg if I have the regulator face upward like one of your Victor fleet. But I would go on my original plan.

I need to return #3 to Swagelok next week and exchange it by #5.

I also have 2 brass CGA-320, so I have it temporarily installed on my Concoa until I hear back from Airgas about the SS availability.














Please take a look the solenoid placement if correct.

Thanks.

-hErNs


----------



## Darkblade48

herns said:


> Finally, here it is. The $9.99 brand new Concoa deal on Ebay.:hihi:


So you finally got around to building it? 



herns said:


> The #3: SS-2-ME Male Elbow wouldnt work the way I wanted to be since the 1/4" port on the Concoa is on 9 o'clock. So it wouldnt run sideway to the left. I do not like the assembly running forward.( on Z axis).
> 
> I can use the elbow on the parker so the bc is on 90 deg if I have the regulator face upward like one of your Victor fleet. But I would go on my original plan.


What you currently have is fine; I don't see why you would need to use a 90 degree elbow, even if you wanted the regulator to face up (towards the ceiling) rather than facing "forward". If you want the regulator to face up (i.e. so that the gauges face the ceiling), you can still use the straight through piece; just twist the regulator to the correct position and adjust the other parts so that the bubble counter is still perpendicular to the floor.



herns said:


> Please take a look the solenoid placement if correct.


The placement of your solenoid is correct.

Edit: One suggestion for the future is that you use non-hardening pipe compound for all your joints rather than teflon tape. With the tape, you risk a small piece of it coming loose and preventing your solenoid from closing all the way.


----------



## bsmith

Beautiful setup herns!

C, Im sick and tired of glass bubble counters. How can (if it can be done at all) hook a stove pipe or similar one to my chrome?


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Hello Left,
> 
> Finally, here it is. The $9.99 brand new Concoa deal on Ebay.:hihi:
> 
> The #3: SS-2-ME Male Elbow wouldnt work the way I wanted to be since the 1/4" port on the Concoa is on 9 o'clock. So it wouldnt run sideway to the left. I do not like the assembly running forward.( on Z axis).
> 
> I can use the elbow on the parker so the bc is on 90 deg if I have the regulator face upward like one of your Victor fleet. But I would go on my original plan.
> 
> I need to return #3 to Swagelok next week and exchange it by #5.
> 
> I also have 2 brass CGA-320, so I have it temporarily installed on my Concoa until I hear back from Airgas about the SS availability.
> 
> 
> Please take a look the solenoid placement if correct.
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> -hErNs


You can use two elbows to get the metering valve pointing toward the front. Hex nipples will give you the spacing. This way you can lower it as well as turn it toward the front. This way, you can mimic a regulator with a 7 o'clock port.

I have my solenoids turned 180° from yours. The black bottom part can be rotated 360°.

Are you going to paint the BC?

Good job:icon_excl :thumbsup:


----------



## herns

Darkblade48 said:


> So you finally got around to building it?
> 
> 
> What you currently have is fine; I don't see why you would need to use a 90 degree elbow, even if you wanted the regulator to face up (towards the ceiling) rather than facing "forward". If you want the regulator to face up (i.e. so that the gauges face the ceiling),


I been keeping my Concoa for months in its shipping box. I didnt realize the port is at 9'oclock and not at 6. That elbow was supposed to be at 6 o'clock port attached after part # 2. (see sketch above). 

I called Swagelok this afternoon to exchange that elbow piece to hex nipple but they would charged me $15 shipping for a single piece hex nipple of $4.60 :angryfire.


----------



## Darkblade48

So right now, you have an extra elbow piece?

I would keep it, it gives you more incentive to build another regulator


----------



## airborne_r6

I have several Victor HPT regulators that I am thinking of selling. They are in great shape but need gauges (no idea why the previous owner took them off) and 320 threads. How much is a fair price for these regulators, I want to make sure that I am going to be able to get my money back before I start buying parts. 

I was also thinking of buying and including a parker solenoid and one of the popular bubble counters with them.


----------



## herns

bsmith said:


> Beautiful setup herns!
> 
> C, Im sick and tired of glass bubble counters. How can (if it can be done at all) hook a stove pipe or similar one to my chrome?


Thanks bsmith.

I wanted to get rid of that brass 1/8" hex nipple under that bc and change it to SS but couldnt find one on ebay. Swagelok charged me for $15 shipping for that single piece.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> Are you going to paint the BC?Good job:icon_excl :thumbsup:


Hello Left C,

Thanks for the infos and advice in finally getting this reg built.

I need to get the bc painted. 
Have you found a good color to match the SS?

thanks!

-hErNs


----------



## Solid

I would like to apply for membership :icon_mrgr.
Heres a pic of my set-up.

Victor Sgt-500 ULTRA-high purity regulator (i got from Anwar via Michiganreefers.com) with clippard solenoid, Ideal needle valve and JBJ bubble counter (SuMo regulator post body kit) with a 5lb co2 tank.


----------



## herns

airborne_r6 said:


> I have several Victor HPT regulators that I am thinking of selling.


Im looking for an SGT Series. PM me if you got one.


----------



## Left C

Solid said:


> I would like to apply for membership :icon_mrgr.
> Heres a pic of my set-up.
> 
> Victor Sgt-500 ULTRA-high purity regulator (i got from Anwar via Michiganreefers.com) with clippard solenoid, Ideal needle valve and JBJ bubble counter (SuMo regulator post body kit) with a 5lb co2 tank.


Hi Solid

That sure is a nice set-up. How do you like it so far?

I have added your name to our list of members. You are #54. roud:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214


----------



## Left C

bsmith said:


> Beautiful setup herns!
> 
> C, Im sick and tired of glass bubble counters. How can (if it can be done at all) hook a stove pipe or similar one to my chrome?


Have you looked at painting your BC?

I went looking around at the various paints for brass. They all recommend a primer coat on a prepped surface. This requires lightly sanding and washing in soap and water. Along with a good drying. You may also want to add a clear coat too.

The selection is so vast that it is a bit confusing. We probably should contact a paint store for more info.

Here are some outdoor paints for metal: http://rustoleum.com/CBGProductFinder.asp?pfm=RST&bsq=2&bid=5&pg=1

I'm not sure if I've picked out the correct paints in this link.

Automotive paint may work too. :icon_ques


----------



## Left C

airborne_r6 said:


> I have several Victor HPT regulators that I am thinking of selling. They are in great shape but need gauges (no idea why the previous owner took them off) and 320 threads. How much is a fair price for these regulators, I want to make sure that I am going to be able to get my money back before I start buying parts.
> 
> I was also thinking of buying and including a parker solenoid and one of the popular bubble counters with them.


Have you decided on a price?

I purchased one that needed the CGA-320 plus the other CO2 parts. It was a complete regulator with gauges, etc. I got a good deal on it. I paid $40 for it, I believe.


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Hello Left C,
> 
> Thanks for the infos and advice in finally getting this reg built.
> 
> I need to get the bc painted.
> Have you found a good color to match the SS?
> 
> thanks!
> 
> -hErNs


I went to Wal-Mart looking at the paint, but I didn't purchase anything. I couldn't find a small can of primer.


----------



## airborne_r6

Left C said:


> Have you decided on a price?
> 
> I purchased one that needed the CGA-320 plus the other CO2 parts. It was a complete regulator with gauges, etc. I got a good deal on it. I paid $40 for it, I believe.


I am thinking somewhere around $85-90 shipped for the regulator, completely ready to go with the correct CGA-320 fittings and 1/8NPT threads in the outlet. 

They would be probably $30-$35 more if I add the solenoid and include a bubble counter.

I have been watching for good valves on ebay. I would like to offer a complete kit for about $160 but I cant find the valves.

You are also the first person to respond to my post so I am not in a huge hurry.


----------



## Left C

airborne_r6 said:


> I am thinking somewhere around $85-90 shipped for the regulator, completely ready to go with the correct CGA-320 fittings and 1/8NPT threads in the outlet.
> 
> They would be probably $30-$35 more if I add the solenoid and include a bubble counter.
> 
> I have been watching for good valves on ebay. I would like to offer a complete kit for about $160 but I cant find the valves.
> 
> You are also the first person to respond to my post so I am not in a huge hurry.


If I find some valves, I'll let you know. I don't need a regulator at the moment.


----------



## airborne_r6

Left C said:


> If I find some valves, I'll let you know. I don't need a regulator at the moment.


Cool thanks.


----------



## Left C

Orlando told me that he has quite a few two stage regulators for sale. He has new ones as well as used ones. PM him if you are interested. Below are some of the models that he has. Do bear in mind that some of these regulators are heavy and they can topple over a 5 lbs CO2 cylinder.

This is what he has:
- High Purity regulators 
- Concoa # 4122341-01-320: http://concoa.com/docs/catalogs/ADC3010AC_Spec Gas/400 Series/ADC 3010 AC 412 Series Regulator.pdf
- Victor # 7-0155: http://www.labrecyclers.com/product.html?InventoryID=2510
- Victor VTS450D: (scroll down on the left side until you see VTS450 and then click on it) http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Victor/Menu.html


----------



## Solid

Left C said:


> Hi Solid
> 
> That sure is a nice set-up. How do you like it so far?


The set-up is great, i think it looks pretty cool and so far dialing in the bubble count has been super easy and hasn't fluctuated at all. I started it running at 1.5-2 bubbles per second (in a 29g) before my drop checker came in and when when it turned a nice green color an hour or so after putting it in. So far its been flawless. I am using a Hagen mini elite as a mister/diffuser btw.


----------



## Left C

Solid said:


> The set-up is great, i think it looks pretty cool and so far dialing in the bubble count has been super easy and hasn't fluctuated at all. I started it running at 1.5-2 bubbles per second (in a 29g) before my drop checker came in and when when it turned a nice green color an hour or so after putting it in. So far its been flawless. I am using a Hagen mini elite as a mister/diffuser btw.


That is great to hear!

Your Victor SGT-500 ULTRA high purity regulator (from Anwar)) with Clippard solenoid, Ideal metering valve and JBJ bubble counter (SuMo regulator post body kit) should give you a lifetime of worry free use.

roud:


----------



## SvenBoogie

Ok, I apologize for how redundant this post is, but I'm getting very very close to being ready to set up my 40 breeder, and I want to get my co2 system finally completed. Can someone (ie: LeftC :icon_lol give me a brief list of which exact components/connectors I need, and some good sources to buy them? I currently have:

Victor Regulator
JBJ Bubble Counter
Parker Needle/Metering Valve
Diffuser

I know I need a solenoid, I'd prefer to get a reasonably priced one, and the connectors, but somehow I once again need a reminder of what all the connecting parts are that I have to buy and where to get em...


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Ok, I apologize for how redundant this post is, but I'm getting very very close to being ready to set up my 40 breeder, and I want to get my co2 system finally completed. Can someone (ie: Left C :icon_lol give me a brief list of which exact components/connectors I need, and some good sources to buy them? I currently have:
> 
> Victor Regulator
> JBJ Bubble Counter
> Parker Needle/Metering Valve
> Diffuser
> 
> I know I need a solenoid, I'd prefer to get a reasonably priced one, and the connectors, but somehow I once again need a reminder of what all the connecting parts are that I have to buy and where to get em...


SuMo would be the easiest place for you to get the solenoid and the connecting parts needed for assembly. You can pick up Pipe Joint Compound at many places like Lowe's, etc.

The reason that it is easy is because your regulator, BC and Parker valve all use the same identical connections as SuMo's kit. Then you can add their Clippard solenoid and you will be set to go.

Below is a link to a handy guide. It shows pictures of SuMo's parts and their assembly, plus it shows some parts that can be substituted. You can use it to help you build your regulator. Plumbing supplies, hardware stores, Lowe's, Home Depot, etc are sources for the parts.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-54.html#post838257

Some people have used the Parker solenoids that have been on ebay. I've never used them. I use Clippard and Burkert solenoids which use identical fittings.

Rex Grigg is another source for the Clippard solenoid and the parts that are needed for assembly.

I don't know if Orlando is selling parts.

If you want a Burkert solenoid, AquariumPlants.com has them.


Gosh, I don't know what else that you need to know. Let me know and please post some pictures.


----------



## Darkblade48

SvenBoogie said:


> I currently have:
> 
> Victor Regulator
> JBJ Bubble Counter
> Parker Needle/Metering Valve
> Diffuser
> 
> I know I need a solenoid, I'd prefer to get a reasonably priced one, and the connectors, but somehow I once again need a reminder of what all the connecting parts are that I have to buy and where to get em...


You can get a Parker solenoid on eBay, as Left C mentioned; I am using a Parker solenoid and it has the same connections as the Clippard, as far as I know (1/8" female NPT). The only disadvantage is that you will need to wire the solenoid yourself (i.e. find an old cable from an electronic device, strip it, and then connect the wires to the solenoid). The easiest way I have found to do this is with spade connectors. If you don't feel comfortable with working with electronics/soldering, etc, I would not recommend you get this solenoid.

As for other parts, you will need the following (regardless of what solenoid you are getting, they all have 1/8" female NPT on both sides):

Regulator to solenoid - a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter. The best would be if it was 1/4" male to 1/8" male. This way, the 1/8" male end can connect directly to the solenoid. If you can only get a 1/4" male to 1/8" female, then you will need another 1/8" female to 1/8" male.

From the solenoid to your Parker metering valve - 1/8" male to 1/8" male. 

From your metering valve to your bubble counter - 1/8" male to 1/8" male.

Bubble Counter to your diffuser - I believe the JBJ bubble counter has a hose barb attached to the top; if so, then you will just need tubing, a check valve, and then some more tubing to go to your diffuser.


----------



## Left C

It is probably time to post the following again because it is buried down deep in the Victor thread. It is part of the link that I gave to SvenBoogie above.



Left C said:


> *SuMo Post Body Kit - Parts & Wrenches*
> 
> These are the parts & wrenches that you need to build a regulator using the SuMo Post Body Kit. I wrote them in the order that they are attached.
> 
> 
> *VTS253A-1993 regulator*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *remove the brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter and discard - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The brass 1/4" MPT x 1/4" barbed adapter on the regulator that you have to remove is on very tight. A vice is very helpful. You put the hex part of the adapter in a vice and turn the regulator. You don't scratch or damage the regulator this way.
> 
> This is how I removed it without a vice. I got my 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench and used an open end wrench locked on to the 1/2" side of the boxed wrench. This in essence makes a longer wrench and provides more leverage. I laid the regulator on a rug. Then I put the 9/16" side of the wrench on the barbed adapter and I stood on the regulator to remove the adapter. I had to turn it a little bit at a time and I had to keep getting another "bite" on the adapter, but I got it off.
> 
> 
> Some regulators don't have barbed adapters. They can have different types of adapters. My Victor VTS253D-320 shows one of the other types of adapters that still has to be removed. It is at the 7 o'clock position.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *SuMo Post Body Kit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's go from right to left because that is the order that they go on the regulator.
> 
> 
> *brass 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT elbow (Note: The picture shows it already attached to the solenoid.) - 5/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Clippard solenoid - hold in hand or use a 7/8" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Ideal Metering Valve - 9/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *brass 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple - 7/16" wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> JBJ bubble counter - tighten by hand*
> *brass 12 mm nut on top of JBJ bubble counter - 1/2" or 12 mm wrench*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yours should look something like this VTS253D-320. Please note that it has a Burkert solenoid instead of a Clippard solenoid and I used slightly different elbow parts to attach the regulator and solenoid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can use a regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc. to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder.
> 
> *TOOL LIST*
> a vice is very handy for assembly
> these are not needed if you have a vice - 9/16" x 1/2" boxed end wrench or 9/16" x 5/8" boxed end wrench
> 5/8" open end wrench
> 7/8" open end wrench (optional)
> 7/16" open or boxed end wrench
> 9/16" open end wrench
> 9/16" boxed end wrench (optional)
> 1/2" or 12 mm open or boxed end wrench
> regulator nut wrench, 1 1/8" open end wrench, adjustable wrench, pipe wrench, etc.
> 
> Some people use Teflon tape. I use a non hardening pipe joint compound.
> OATEY 31229 GREAT WHITE Pipe Joint Compound w/Teflon, 1oz.
> "Lubricates and seals all threaded joints. White, non-hardening, non-separating, non-toxic paste. Withstands up to 3,000 PSI on gases from -50 to +400 degrees F, and 10,000 PSI on liquids from -50 to +500 degrees F. For use with water, steam, caustic or dilute acid lines of PVC, CPVC, ABS, cycolac, polypropylene, iron, steel or copper."
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NOTE: Make sure that you use Teflon tape or pipe compound on the threads at the top of the bubble counter. It could leak if you don't.
> 
> 
> 
> *XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX*
> 
> 
> herns suggested that I should post some info about how to attach the regulator to the CO2 cylinder:
> _- make sure you use a washer
> - tighten the heck out of it and then tighten it some more
> - *do not use Teflon tape on the threads*, the thread design and washer provides the tight seal
> - turn the regulator working pressure knob counter clockwise until it is almost ready to fall off, this sets it to near 0 psi and keeps you from blowing the low pressure gauge
> - slowly open the CO2 cylinder
> - check for leaks
> - a full cylinder should read ~ 800 psi
> - turn the working pressure knob clockwise to set your working pressure
> 
> That's it._
> 
> 
> *xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx*
> 
> 
> Here is some more info concerning regulator connection parts.
> 
> 
> If you don't need an elbow, you can rig it different ways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Use the 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT between the regulator and solenoid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> - This way requires two parts. Use a 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT bushing attached to the regulator.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve
> 
> 1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 1/8" MPT nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are two other ways to do an elbow. Each requires two parts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - 1/4" MPT x 1/8" FPT elbow attached to the solenoid
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and either one of these styles of nipples attached to the solenoid and the Ideal valve
> 
> 1/8" MPT hex nipple
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> or
> 
> 1/8" MPT nipple


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C, can you list the parker part numbers, if you have them, for the various connecting pieces?

EDIT: Actually, just tell me if I have this correct, I need:

Elbow, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Female x 1

Hex Nipple, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Male x 2

Hex Nipple, 1/4" Male NPT x 1/8" Male x 1

And then the Solenoid...

Am I missing anything, or are any of these the wrong part?


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Left C, can you list the parker part numbers, if you have them, for the various connecting pieces?
> 
> EDIT: Actually, just tell me if I have this correct, I need:
> 
> Elbow, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Female x 1
> 
> Hex Nipple, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Male x 2
> 
> Hex Nipple, 1/4" Male NPT x 1/8" Male x 1
> 
> Am I missing anything, or are any of these the wrong part?


Your parts are fine. All of them will work. You are also correct in that you will need two of the hex nipples.

Good job!



SvenBoogie said:


> ... And then the Solenoid...


What are you going to use for the solenoid?


----------



## Left C

Let's double check the elbow as it may not be 1/8" female NPT on one end.

Parker 2-2-SE-B-01 Brass, Pipe Street Elbow, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Female
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...t_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=AIUBT5HP6PMAF&v=glance

Notice that after Female the letters NPT isn't written. 

Is this a typo or not?


----------



## Darkblade48

From the pictures, I believe that the Parker parts that are listed are indeed NPT on both ends. It would not make much sense for one side to be 1/8" male NPT, and then the other side be 1/8" female, but not NPT.


Sven, if you are planning to use a solenoid, then you will need three 1/8" male to 1/8" male nipples. Your 1/8" male NPT to 1/8" female NPT elbow will not be able to connect to anything, otherwise.


----------



## Left C

Here we go. Everything is on one page. It is easier to see this way.

Regulator - need to remove the 1/4" MPT fitting at the 7 o'clock position









1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT reducing hex nipple









1/8" FPT x 1/8" MPT street elbow









solenoid 1/8" FPT x 1/8" FPT









1/8" MPT hex nipple









metering valve 1/8" FPT x 1/8" FPT









1/8" MPT hex nipple









JBJ bubble counter 1/8" FPT


----------



## Epitaph

Finally done building my own and here's the result:










Consists of SGT500, parts from SuMo's post body kit, and Parker metering valve.

Many thanks to Left C for taking his time to answer all my questions and also everyone here that contributed to this thread; wouldn't have been able to complete it otherwise.
Might appear a bit smudgy since I still haven't cleaned the finished product after working with the pope dope.

Hope this motivate others that wants to try building their own dual stage regulator since it's a lot easier than it seems and everyone on the forums is very friendly and willing to help if needed.

-Epi


----------



## Left C

That's really nice! I like the way that you are using two elbows. roud:


----------



## SvenBoogie

Darkblade48 said:


> Sven, if you are planning to use a solenoid, then you will need three 1/8" male to 1/8" male nipples. Your 1/8" male NPT to 1/8" female NPT elbow will not be able to connect to anything, otherwise.


Hmm... didn't/don't see that in the list Left C posted...?


----------



## AquaLung

I would like to apply for membership also :icon_mrgr.

This is what I got:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200382245895&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123

It was a buy it ($180.00) now or best offer. I offered $50.00. Sold. :icon_eek:

I have an Ideal 54-1-12 and a SS Burkert solenoid and a box full of SS fittings waiting for it...


----------



## Left C

AquaLung said:


> I would like to apply for membership also :icon_mrgr.
> 
> This is what I got:
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200382245895&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOIBSA:US:1123
> 
> It was a buy it ($180.00) now or best offer. I offered $50.00. Sold. :icon_eek:
> 
> I have an Ideal 54-1-12 and a SS Burkert solenoid and a box full of SS fittings waiting for it...


Wow! That's a buy!! I've read that Matheson regulators are very dependable in an industry setting. For us ... a long time.

I'm curious, what is the part no. of your SS Burkert solenoid?

You are member #56. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214

Check this and this out if you get a chance.


----------



## AquaLung

Thanks!

The SS Burkert solenoid part number is 00457157.


----------



## Left C

Thanks!


----------



## SvenBoogie

AquaLung said:


> Thanks!
> 
> The SS Burkert solenoid part number is 00457157.


Hmm, I can't find anything on this particular solenoid.

LeftC, I think despite that I got utterly scammed on pricing for the parts, I might still just keep them if they work, I'd rather just be done with the whole thing.


----------



## AquaLung

It is the same as the 456786X, but in Stainless Steel not Brass.

http://www.iprocessmart.com/Merchan...n=PROD&Store_Code=IPM&Product_Code=BU00457157


----------



## Darkblade48

SvenBoogie said:


> Hmm... didn't/don't see that in the list Left C posted...?


D'oh! My mistake; that's what I get for trying to look over parts in my head (not drawn out) after a 11 hour day in the lab :icon_frow


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> ... Left C, I think despite that I got utterly scammed on pricing for the parts, I might still just keep them if they work, I'd rather just be done with the whole thing.


NPT - National Pipe Threads: These are tapered so that the tighter they get, the tighter the seal.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/National_Pipe_Thread

By design, the non-NPT fittings can't seal as well. You might get them to seal, but I don't know. 

If the long run, you would be better off using the correct NPT parts. Plus, you really got ripped off. (SuMo would of been much cheaper. )

Should you decide to get the parts elsewhere, you might want to print the following post which is what I posted for you a few posts back as well as the one from the PM.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-91.html#post912666


----------



## Left C

Darkblade48 said:


> D'oh! My mistake; that's what I get for trying to look over parts in my head (not drawn out) after a 11 hour day in the lab :icon_frow


I know what you mean. I came back from pigging out at the Chinese buffet and ran into it.

We are wondering if these parts are NPT on one end and non-NPT on the other. ??? 

Check out the ridiculously high prices too. $10 for an elbow!!!!


----------



## babakaty

*JBJ bubble counters*

All the domestic sources I look at for the JBJ bubble counters that everyone seems to use say " discontinued". Anybody know anything about this?


----------



## Darkblade48

The JBJ counters are available in the US, but they are definitely more frequently found on eBay. I'm not sure why sites in the US might say they are discontinued, however...


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> ... Elbow, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Female x 1
> 
> Hex Nipple, 1/8" Male NPT x 1/8" Male x 2
> 
> Hex Nipple, 1/4" Male NPT x 1/8" Male x 1


Parker Brass Pipe Fittings: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...gnextcatid=5229&vgnextcat=BRASS PIPE FITTINGS

Below are the correct parts if you get them from Parker.

street elbow 1/8" MPT x 1/8" FPT: 1202P-2-2: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=1202P-2-2&Wtky=

1/8" MPT hex nipple: 216P-2: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...LE&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=216P-2&Wtky=

1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple: 216P-4-2: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=216P-4-2&Wtky=


----------



## kali

babakaty said:


> All the domestic sources I look at for the JBJ bubble counters that everyone seems to use say " discontinued". Anybody know anything about this?


+1 JBJ bubble counter are NOT available in the USA anymore !!! the only place selling it right now it though ebay , the seller is from malaysia , if you asked me that product is discontinued. if jbj still making that i just cant see why we can get that available here.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C said:


> Parker Brass Pipe Fittings: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...gnextcatid=5229&vgnextcat=BRASS PIPE FITTINGS
> 
> Below are the correct parts if you get them from Parker.
> 
> street elbow 1/8" MPT x 1/8" FPT: 1202P-2-2: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=1202P-2-2&Wtky=
> 
> 1/8" MPT hex nipple: 216P-2: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...LE&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=216P-2&Wtky=
> 
> 1/4" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple: 216P-4-2: http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...&vgnextdiv=687547&vgnextpartno=216P-4-2&Wtky=




Left C, any chance the ones I ordered will also work?


----------



## Solid

I heard that JBJ has discontinued all of their Co2 products, some companies like SuMo regulators and Greenleaf still have quite a few in stock. So if you want one i would get one while you still can.


----------



## babakaty

That's what it looks like to me. Wonder what the next "industry standard" will be? I've seen a number of nice bubble counters, but none that are threaded so as to attach to a regulator/needle valve-type setup....


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Left C, any chance the ones I ordered will also work?


Is there a way to double check the part numbers' descriptions for the fittings that you ordered?

If they have NPT threads at both ends, they will work.


----------



## herns

*Swagelok Elbow*



Darkblade48 said:


> So right now, you have an extra elbow piece?
> 
> I would keep it, it gives you more incentive to build another regulator


I decided to return it back but Swagelok rejected it and mail it back to me. They are so particular when a compound joint touches the thread. I did cleaned it thoroughly but they just have a strict quality control.:frown:


----------



## SvenBoogie

Well, I think I'll just end up keeping the parts order then, since they should work and the tank is otherwise very close to being ready to set up. 

One last thing I really need though is a good solenoid valve. Anyone have any tips on where to find one at a decent price?


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Well, I think I'll just end up keeping the parts order then, since they should work and the tank is otherwise very close to being ready to set up.
> 
> One last thing I really need though is a good solenoid valve. Anyone have any tips on where to find one at a decent price?





Left C said:


> SuMo would be the easiest place for you to get the solenoid and the connecting parts needed for assembly. You can pick up Pipe Joint Compound at many places like Lowe's, etc.
> 
> The reason that it is easy is because your regulator, BC and Parker valve all use the same identical connections as SuMo's kit. Then you can add their Clippard solenoid and you will be set to go.


I wish that you would of followed my original advice. It would of been easier for both of us and it would of been cheaper for you. They don't use pipe fittings that cost nearly as much plus you wouldn't have to pay shipping from two different places. :wink:


----------



## Darkblade48

There was a seller on eBay that was selling Parker solenoids for a good price. 

Here is the item number: 290354416153

Be warned that the solenoid does not come with its electrical cord, so you will have to salvage/buy one and attach it to the solenoid spades. The easiest way I have found to accomplish this is with spade connectors. 

Alternatively, you can always buy a Clippard or a Burkert if you feel uncomfortable working with electricity.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C said:


> I wish that you would of followed my original advice. It would of been easier for both of us and it would of been cheaper for you. They don't use pipe fittings that cost nearly as much plus you wouldn't have to pay shipping from two different places. :wink:


Well, I could always just refuse delivery on the shipment of the parts, get my refund, and still do so. However, they really did not seem pleased at the idea of selling me the post body kit without the bubble counter or needle valve when I last contacted them.


----------



## Left C

SvenBoogie said:


> Well, I could always just refuse delivery on the shipment of the parts, get my refund, and still do so. However, they really did not seem pleased at the idea of selling me the post body kit without the bubble counter or needle valve when I last contacted them.


Last night I spent several hours looking at Parker's stainless steel 1/4" NPT and 1/8" NPT pipe fittings. All the parts that I looked at seemed to be very well made. They seem to be in a class higher than some SS pipe fitting suppliers.

Then I looked at Parker's brass pipe fittings. These are designed very similar to the SS pipe fittings. They seem to be designed to a higher standard than the parts that we normally use. This may explain part of the price differences.


----------



## SvenBoogie

Left C said:


> Last night I spent several hours looking at Parker's stainless steel 1/4" NPT and 1/8" NPT pipe fittings. All the parts that I looked at seemed to be very well made. They seem to be in a class higher than some SS pipe fitting suppliers.
> 
> Then I looked at Parker's brass pipe fittings. These are designed very similar to the SS pipe fittings. They seem to be designed to a higher standard than the parts that we normally use. This may explain part of the price differences.


While thats somewhat of a consolation, I'm still not sure what your opinion is on whether I should keep this order, or just refuse the shipment for refund and see if sumo is willing to sell the post body kit without the bubble counter and needle valve...

As far as a solenoid alone, so far I've found:

This one for 39.95
This one for 49.99

And... thats pretty much all I've been able to find so far...

EDIT:

and also THIS ONE for 48.99 ...


----------



## Darkblade48

Are you not considering the Parker solenoid that is being sold for $12.50? 

Nothing against other solenoids, but...


----------



## SvenBoogie

Darkblade48 said:


> Are you not considering the Parker solenoid that is being sold for $12.50?
> 
> Nothing against other solenoids, but...


Whoops, I missed that...

looks good, but I noticed this bit:

"maximum ambient operating temperature for continuous duty is 68F" 

Wouldn't that present an issue?


----------



## Darkblade48

Ooh, I didn't know about that...

I don't have any problem with my solenoid so far (knock on wood). I was using it at ~25C continuously for the last month or so with no problem...


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> *1/8" FTPT x 1/8" MPT street elbow* _Parker 2-2-SE-B-01:_ OK
> *1/8" MPT x 1/8" MPT hex nipple* _Parker 2-2-SE-B-01:_ OK


Hello Left C,

I found a cheaper ss hex nipple in ebay to replace the brass hex nipple under my bc.

$3 + $4.95 shipping.
Ebay NO: 200370820308


----------



## Left C

Gosh ... We have over 50,000 views now.


----------



## herns

*Concoa 212 Series*

Left C,

mrmotorcycle always mentioned that Concoa is better than Victor.
Here are some great deals in Ebay.:bounce:

Item No. 300357427186

Item No. 370275141723

Item No. 300357427694

Item No. 300357428078

-hErNS


----------



## Left C

herns said:


> Left C,
> 
> mrmotorcycle always mentioned that Concoa is better than Victor.
> Here are some great deals in Ebay.:bounce:
> 
> Item No. 300357427186
> 
> Item No. 370275141723
> 
> Item No. 300357427694
> 
> Item No. 300357428078
> 
> -hErNS


Those are very nice. Maybe some people on this forum will purchase them. The working pressure range is very good for our use.

They are the chrome plated dual stage 212 series inert gas regulators with a 0 to 60 PSIG working pressure gauge and (0 to 40 PSI) outlet pressure. They have stainless steel diaphragms too. 

They either need a CGA-320 cylinder to CGA-580 regulator adapter or they need the stock CGA-580 nipple and nut replaced with a CGA-320 nipple and nut.
http://www.ckgas.com/pdf/concoa/212.pdf

212-2311-01-580


----------



## hbosman

herns said:


> Left C,
> 
> mrmotorcycle always mentioned that Concoa is better than Victor.
> Here are some great deals in Ebay.:bounce:
> 
> Item No. 300357427186
> 
> Item No. 370275141723
> 
> Item No. 300357427694
> 
> Item No. 300357428078
> 
> -hErNS



I assume these are dual stage? I didn't see it mentioned in the description but the picture in the pdf looks like it has the hump on back.


----------



## herns

hbosman said:


> I assume these are dual stage? I didn't see it mentioned in the description but the picture in the pdf looks like it has the hump on back.



212 series are dual stage. 

They are one of the best regulators for this hobby. roud:


----------



## Left C

hbosman said:


> I assume these are dual stage? I didn't see it mentioned in the description but the picture in the pdf looks like it has the hump on back.


This is funny. I believe that you overlooked my post. :icon_lol:

I mentioned that they are dual stage regulators right under hern's list and I gave a link to the website where they are described. 



Left C said:


> Those are very nice. Maybe some people on this forum will purchase them. The working pressure range is very good for our use.
> 
> They are the chrome plated *dual stage* 212 series inert gas regulators with a 0 to 60 PSIG working pressure gauge and (0 to 40 PSI) outlet pressure. They have stainless steel diaphragms too.
> 
> They either need a CGA-320 cylinder to CGA-580 regulator adapter or they need the stock CGA-580 nipple and nut replaced with a CGA-320 nipple and nut.
> http://www.ckgas.com/pdf/concoa/212.pdf


----------



## Left C

There are some Victor regulators on ebay at good prices. Some are dual stage and some are single stage.

Item number: 180419812559 appears to be a VTS253A-320 dual stage. Two of them are available. This model is very good for our use.

Item number: 130337764006 is a new in box single stage that needs either an adapter or a CGA-320 nipple and nut. 
VICTOR #SR250C-580 0781-0028 inert gas PRESSURE REGULATOR.


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> There are some Victor regulators on ebay at good prices. Some are dual stage and some are single stage.
> 
> Item number: 180419812559 appears to be a VTS253A-320 dual stage. Two of them are available.


I like the size of 253A-320 over Concoa 212 series. 212 is huge after you got the post body kit assembled into it. Its a killer regulator that will last a lifetime.

Im always looking for VTS253A-1993.


----------



## Left C

If I wasn't broke, I'd get one of those VTS253A-320's. I'd bid on that single stage regulator too if I had some money.

Those VTS253A-1993 are very nice. I have 5 of them. 2 of the 5 are brand new. The other 3 are in mint condition.


----------



## hbosman

Left C said:


> If I wasn't broke, I'd get one of those VTS253A-320's. I'd bid on that single stage regulator too if I had some money.
> 
> Those VTS253A-1993 are very nice. I have 5 of them. 2 of the 5 are brand new. The other 3 are in mint condition.


Wow, how many fish tanks do you run or do you just collect regulators?:hihi:


----------



## Left C

hbosman said:


> Wow, how many fish tanks do you run or do you just collect regulators?:hihi:


I believe that I've turned into a regulator collector for the present. 

I have 4 tanks running now and 3 more to set up. I've been buying parts for those 3 when they were on sale and I just about have everything that I need to get them going.


----------



## bradac56

Left C said:


> If I wasn't broke, I'd get one of those VTS253A-320's. I'd bid on that single stage regulator too if I had some money.


You suck sir! I just bought one of the 320's ... my wife is going to kill me he has allot of lab equipment I'm just not going to be able to resist.

EDIT: Hmm I guess I need to apply to the pimp club now that I own two of them.

- Brad


----------



## Left C

bradac56 said:


> You suck sir! I just bought one of the 320's ... my wife is going to kill me he has allot of lab equipment I'm just not going to be able to resist.


You should really like that regulator. I haven't seen any good metering valves lately at good prices.

I didn't check out the lab ware. I'm broke. I just spent $350 on my Toyota and that is really rare for this car.



bradac56 said:


> EDIT: Hmm I guess I need to apply to the pimp club now that I own two of them.
> 
> - Brad


I have you covered. You are member #58. I'm glad that you joined.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214


----------



## bradac56

Left C said:


> You should really like that regulator. I haven't seen any good metering valves lately at good prices.
> 
> I didn't check out the lab ware. I'm broke. I just spent $350 on my Toyota and that is really rare for this car.
> 
> I have you covered. You are member #58. I'm glad that you joined.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214



I picked one up almost a year ago on your recommendation and I've been happy with it but now I have a 4ft discus tank just itching for better light and the price was less than the first one.

Thanks for the pimp # it's been added.

- Brad


----------



## Left C

bradac56 said:


> I picked one up almost a year ago on your recommendation and I've been happy with it but now I have a 4ft discus tank just itching for better light and the price was less than the first one.
> 
> Thanks for the pimp # it's been added.
> 
> - Brad


I was thinking that you have one already. I'm glad that you told me.


----------



## Left C

I found some older articles concerning pH, CO2, KH, GH, alkalinity and hardness on TheKrib.com the other day. Most of the information in them is very helpful, but there is some information that is a bit dated.

CO2 "FAQ'' (This 1995 article tells us "The best {regulator} is a two-stage regulator designed for use on welding gas cylinders."): http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/co2-booth-faq.html
Water Hardness: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/hardness-larryfrank.html
Water Hardness: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/khgh.html
Alkalinity vs. KH: http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/alkalinity.html
Hardness (incl. History): http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/hard-slu.html


----------



## Left C

Direct solenoid actuation animation: http://www.buschjost.com/memberzone/shop/BE_VA_00.cfm

This is the type of solenoid that we normally use. There are three other animations showing other types of solenoids.


----------



## Left C

CO2 cylinder pressures at various temperatures and reading the markings on compressed air and CO2 cylinders

FROM: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/p...re-relation-room-temperatures.html#post287886


madman280 said:


> When a CO2 tank is reasonably full it will contain a mixture
> of both CO2 liquid and vapor.
> 
> As long as both liquid and vapor are present,
> the pressure in the (CO2) tank will depend only on the (ambient) room temperature (not "fullness")
> as shown in the table below:
> 
> Tank Temperature Cylinder Pressure
> (F) (PSIA)
> @69° 837
> @71° 859
> @75° 905
> @77° 928
> @79° 952
> @81° 976
> @89° 1080
> 
> The gauge pressure (PSIG) is approximately 14.7 psi less than the values in the table above. The temperature to pressure relationship is logarithmic. That's why its not a good idea to leave a full cylinder in your trunk on a hot day.




The following link has information about reading the markings on metal compressed air and CO2 cylinders.
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?p=46930222#post46930222


----------



## fordtrannyman

*Matheson Dual Stage C02 Regulator*

Wow this thread is huge. It's been a while sine I've looked at it since helping to get SCAPE going again. Good job Left C!roud:

I thought I would share another one of my rigs.

Here's some shots of my Matheson Dual Stage C02 Regulator that sits in my office and feeds 5 of the 7 tanks in there.
It consists of; 
Matheson model # 3102C
1 X Brass Needle Valve
2 X Swagelok/Nupro Medium Flow Metering Valves
2 X Fabco Custom Needle Valves
5 X JBJ Bubble Counter w/Check Valves

I just added two additional valves and bent the adjuster stem on one of the Fabcos. While bending it back it broke. So I ground a slot across the stem so I can use a small flathead screwdriver to make adjustments.


----------



## bsmith

WHAT A BEAST!!! Looks like you would need a TR6060 to run that thing.


----------



## Left C

fordtrannyman said:


> Wow this thread is huge. It's been a while sine I've looked at it since helping to get SCAPE going again. Good job Left C!roud:


You are right. It sure has really grown. 58 members, 1400+ posts, and 52M+ views. Plus much helpful information from many people. It is much larger that I ever dreamed.

I was wondering what happened to you. I haven't heard from you in a while.



fordtrannyman said:


> I thought I would share another one of my rigs.
> 
> Here's some shots of my Matheson Dual Stage C02 Regulator that sits in my office and feeds 5 of the 7 tanks in there.
> It consists of;
> Matheson model # 3102C
> 1 X Brass Needle Valve
> 2 X Swagelok/Nupro Medium Flow Metering Valves
> 2 X Fabco Custom Needle Valves
> 5 X JBJ Bubble Counter w/Check Valves
> 
> I just added two additional valves and bent the adjuster stem on one of the Fabcos. While bending it back it broke. So I ground a slot across the stem so I can use a small flathead screwdriver to make adjustments.


Wow! That is a monster!!

I'm curious, does the regulator hold a stable low pressure setting? It should.

I just took a quick look at SCAPE. Nice site. I found your post about your regulators. Nice! Are there other members using dual stage regulators and Victor regulators?
http://socalaquascapers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1337

Don't stay gone so long next time. 

PS: Seven aquariums in your office! What does your boss say about them?


----------



## fordtrannyman

Left C said:


> Wow! That is a monster!!
> 
> I'm curious, does the regulator hold a stable low pressure setting? It should.


Down to the very last micro bubble.



Left C said:


> I just took a quick look at SCAPE. Nice site. I found your post about your regulators. Nice! Are there other members using dual stage regulators and Victor regulators?
> http://socalaquascapers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1337


I hope to educate some folks soon on the benefits of piecing together their own Dual Stage Regulators with an upcoming presentation and lecture at one of our Monthly Club Meetings.




Left C said:


> PS: Seven aquariums in your office! What does your boss say about them?


My wifey don't mind, it keeps me out of trouble and sane. 
BTW; I have 15 tanks running and a 5gal. bucket in total.


----------



## Left C

15 tanks and a bucket! Whew ....

I wish that your club meeting wasn't 37 hours 17 minutes / 2488.19 miles away. I'd come. 
http://www.mapquest.com/maps?1c=Burlington&1s=nc&1z=27217&2c=Fullerton&2s=ca


----------



## Left C

Has anyone found any deals on regulators, needle/metering valves and solenoids lately?


----------



## S&KGray

Hi LeftC,

My SGT500 with chrome CGA 320 nut/nipple came in on Saturday.


----------



## Left C

S&KGray said:


> Hi LeftC,
> 
> My SGT500 with chrome CGA 320 nut/nipple came in on Saturday.


That sure is really nice!! It looks brand new! How is Anwar doing?

Would you like to be member #59? I already have you down. 
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-65.html#post876214


----------



## Left C

QUOTE: "The most reliable way to dose CO2 is through the use of pressurized cylinders and two stages of pressure regulation."

from: Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine » Volume VIII » October 2009 » Freshwater Aquariums: How to Dose a Plant Tank, Part 1: Carbon Dioxide
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2009/10/freshwater


----------



## herns

S&KGray said:


> Hi LeftC,
> 
> My SGT500 with chrome CGA 320 nut/nipple came in on Saturday.



Thats a very good looking SGT series.


----------



## babakaty

Left C said:


> Has anyone found any deals on regulators, needle/metering valves and solenoids lately?


Just picked up a VTS-253A-1993 off eBay for 50 bucks.... :icon_smil


----------



## Left C

babakaty said:


> Just picked up a VTS-253A-1993 off eBay for 50 bucks.... :icon_smil


I'm sure that you will really like that regulator. The VTS250/VTS253 dual stage models are great for our use. The "1993" models are chrome plated and look great. When you turn the adjustment knob you can really feel the precision. I hope some more of those regulator show up for sale.


----------



## babakaty

I'm looking forward to getting it and using it. I'm planning on putting together a double setup for the two Rex-type reactors on my 90 gal. Sure no deals on needle valves lately, though. I can't believe what some of them go for!


----------



## Left C

babakaty said:


> I'm looking forward to getting it and using it. I'm planning on putting together a double setup for the two Rex-type reactors on my 90 gal. Sure no deals on needle valves lately, though. I can't believe what some of them go for!


I look for Swagelok, ******, Nupro or Parker 1/8" male or female NPT metering valves. There was an Ideal valve on there recently. I just looked and there are plenty with the 1/4" tube fittings. The low and medium flow models will work if you either get reducing adapters for your 1/8" NPT solenoid and JBJ bubble counter. 1/4" NPT solenoids are available too. Swagelok has adapters to turn the tubing fittings to male or female NPT. These are the male and female stainless steel tubing to NPT adapters. They have brass adapters too.


----------



## babakaty

I look for the same things, and sometimes there are great deals to be had (just bought a couple brand-new Parker solenoids for 12 bucks ea.) but eBay is kinda like Pandora's box; you never know what you're gonna find, or when, or if!


----------



## Left C

babakaty said:


> I look for the same things, and sometimes there are great deals to be had (just bought a couple brand-new Parker solenoids for 12 bucks ea.) but eBay is kinda like Pandora's box; you never know what you're gonna find, or when, or if!


No ... It's not like Pandora's box.

"ebaY is like a box of chocolates. You never know what you're gonna to get." :hihi:


----------



## babakaty

Seriously though Left C, the addictive power of pressurized pneumatic equipment is really quite frightening. I'm starting to think I'm turning into a junkie!


----------



## Left C

I know what you mean. 

"If your thing is gone and you wanna ride on; dual stage.
Don't forget this fact, you can't get it back; dual stage.
She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage.

She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage."

:hihi: :icon_mrgr


----------



## herns

Left C said:


> I know what you mean.
> 
> "If your thing is gone and you wanna ride on; dual stage.
> Don't forget this fact, you can't get it back; dual stage.
> She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage.
> 
> She don't lie, she don't lie, she don't lie; dual stage."
> 
> :hihi: :icon_mrgr



:hihi: LOL!:hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi::hihi:


----------



## smoq

I totally forgot to post that here, so here it is FYI

REGULATOR ASSEMBLY​

Few forwarding words:
So many people on this forum helped me getting to the point I am right now (regarding planted tanks of course) so I felt obligated to give back to this fantastic community somehow… I know it was done many times before, but maybe my write-up help somebody who wants to assemble a Co2 regulator for a planted tank. I’d like to thank LeftC especially, as he helped me a lot with my regulator.

This DYI write-up is based on my own observations and experience as well as advices from other members on this forum. I could be wrong on some things so feel free to correct me or suggest better method of assembling a CO2 regulator. And one more thing, watch and correct my English please, I appreciate that.

You need the following things to assemble a regulator for your plant needs:
- CO2 regulator, dual stage will be your best bet as this type lets you avoid the “end of tank dump” effect
- Needle valve to control the flow of bubbles
- Optional bubble counter, inline or JBJ style
- CO2 resistant tubing like polyurethane one
- Solenoid valve and timer (you don’t need a constant CO2 flow, plants don’t use CO2 when lights are off)
- Check valve to prevent water back siphoning from the tank (brass check valves are the best ones( 
- NPT fittings needed to connect everything together
- Teflon tape or non-toxic plumbing paste to seal connections
- A pair of good-quality pliers to put everything together

So here is what I used for my regulator (your choices may be different and may require different fittings, so please post on this thread with any questions, either I or more experienced people will be happy to help you)










Mine setup consist of:
-Matheson Dual stage regulator I bought on S&S
-Swagelok metering valve 
-Clippard solenoid valve
-clippard brass check valves with co2 tubing barb fittings

First thing you need to do is to connect a power cord to the solenoid. You can buy one on clippard site but I think they are too expensive and don’t tell me you don’t have one computer power cord just lying around somewhere. It’s quite easy to do, you just remove the plastic cover from your solenoid and connect wires from your cord to the solenoid (typically white, black and green for ground). 
Clippard solenoid valve comes with red LED that turns on when the valve is open. 

Next, take your regulator and take a good look at it There’s a low pressure knob that basically regulates the flow thru the regulator, but it’s very imprecise as for aquarium purposes, that’s why you need metering valve in your setup. Next there is a CGA 320 fitting that goes to the co2 cylinder. The last one is a female ¼ NPT fitting, that’s where the solenoid valve should be connected.









Now, it all depends if you want to use JBJ style bubble counter or not. 
-if you do, you have to use an elbow fitting, because the bubble counter needs to be in upright position. The simplest way is to buy a male 1/4 NPT to male 1/8 NPT reduction elbow , or at least a male ¼ NPT to female 1/8 NPT reduction bushing and male 1/8 NPT elbow fitting. 
It was PITA to find those in my area, so I needed to use three parts- male ¼ NPT to female 1/8 NPT reduction bushing, male 1/8 NPT to female 1/8 NPT 90 elbow fitting and 1/8 NPT nipple “close”. Anyway, see the picture below, I hope that will clear your mind a little bit.
I think most of you will use male ¼ NPT to female 1/8 NPT reduction bushing and male 1/8 NPT elbow fitting. First screw in the reduction to the regulator head using pliers or, better, a combination wrench from your mechanic’s tool set. I was too lazy to get one from my car so I used pliers (those scratches on the fitting heads are from the pliers). Put a generous amount of plumbing paste on the thread or use Teflon tape instead. Next, screw the reduction and elbow together and then screw in solenoid valve. Use paste or Teflon tape on all threads to prevent leaks. If you’ll find assembling those parts in another order easier for you, go for it. It doesn’t really matter how you screw things
-if you are not planning to use any bubble counter or prefer an inline one, you don’t really need the 90 elbow, you can use straight male 1/4 NPT to male 1/8 NPT reduction instead.









Next thing to do is assemble metering valve parts and connect it to the solenoid valve, right where it belongs Swagelok metering valves, like one in my setup, are known for outstanding performance and being very precise. I tend to agree with that, however, there are other needle valves on the market recommended by fellow aquarists, that you can use. I cannot comment on other brands as I haven’t used any other, but I recommend asking other people on this forum, they help you for sure.
Swagelok metering valves come with special fittings and to connect it to the rest of your regulator, you need a kind of reduction from their thread to male 1/8 NPT (see picture). Anyway, to screw metering valve with solenoid, you need male 1/8 NPT fitting that comes to the solenoid body. The other side of the metering valve is where you connect bubble counter or co2 line. If you’re using JBJ style bubble counter, again you need male 1/8 NPT fitting. If not, you can attach co2 tubing right into the metering valve (again, that’s how it works with Swagelok, IDK about other brands).


























The other side of the bubble counter is where you attach co2 tubing that will go to the diffuser/reactor. Don’t forget to use check valve and to connect it close to your regulator. Here’s a picture explaining how to correctly connect tubing to the bubble counter. 









First, slide the nut from the bubble counter on the tubing, then the small O-ring, force the tubing into the bubble counter, fill the bubble counter to about 2/3 with water or mineral oil and tighten the nut with the bubble counter body. 
Well, that’s about it. Screw your complete regulator setup into co2 cylinder, open the valve on the cylinder and open the low pressure valve in your regulator. Check for any leaks before plugging the solenoid by using a soapy water or windex. Then plug in solenoid, open the metering valve and look for bubbles in the bubble counter. Again, check for leaks, connect your solenoid to a timer and enjoy your pressurized co2 system. And don’t forget to throw out all those 2L soda bottles you tried to hide desperately behind your tank, you’re never going to need them again OK, leave maybe one, just for the future nano-tanks


----------



## Left C

Excellent!


----------



## S&KGray

So those Parker solenoids on eBay for about $12 are good for our application even with the stated ambient working temp of 68F?


----------



## Darkblade48

S&KGray said:


> So those Parker solenoids on eBay for about $12 are good for our application even with the stated ambient working temp of 68F?


I have been using one with no problems thus far (knock on wood...)


----------



## S&KGray

Looks like the eBay seller of those solenoids bought these guys out...:biggrin: Their price was $7.50 each


----------



## bradac56

Ugg ... just ugg.

I'll stick to buying this solenoid the extra money is worth it.

- Brad


----------



## Darkblade48

S&KGray said:


> Looks like the eBay seller of those solenoids bought these guys out...:biggrin: Their price was $7.50 each


 :icon_mad: And to think that they got the bulk price too!


----------



## S&KGray

bradac56 said:


> Ugg ... just ugg.
> 
> I'll stick to buying this solenoid the extra money is worth it.
> 
> - Brad



I want to get the 'A' model of that one with the SS body, anything but brass.:icon_lol:

Anyone ever use the this solenoid?


----------



## bradac56

So why hasn't this thread been Sticky'ed yet?

- Brad


----------



## airborne_r6

bradac56 said:


> So why hasn't this thread been Sticky'ed yet?
> 
> - Brad


 
Doesn't need to be stickied, its always at the top already.


----------



## S&KGray

*Victor Heavy Duty Dual Stage Regulators on eBay*

For anyone looking for dual stage regulators: There are several Victor VTS450D regulators on eBay with starting bid of $9.99, seller is thetoolcribguy.


----------



## eiginh

I plan on purchasing this regulator Matheson Gas Regulator CGA-320 Connector 3000/30 PSI. Is that a decent regulator?


----------



## S&KGray

Looks like a decent regulator, though I would try to get the specific model number and find out the exact specs.


----------



## eiginh

I thought cga-320 is the model #? I can't find the specs online for some reason.

Anyway what about this used regulator.

Victor VTS450E?

Here's the specs:


 Gas Service / AIR​
 Max Inlet 3000 PSIGI ​
 HP Gauge 0-4000 psi /kPa 28ooo​
 LP Gauge 0-60 psi ​


----------



## Darkblade48

CGA320 is the fitting that is required for CO2 tanks. Other common fittings include CGA580, which would be for nitrogen tanks.

From the preliminary look over of the regulator, it looks like it would work just fine for CO2 purposes. Again, you will likely need to find a CGA320 fitting to replace the current fitting it has.

Don't forget that you will also need a needle valve and a solenoid (if you want to be able to control your CO2 via a timer and/or a pH controller).


----------



## S&KGray

eiginh said:


> I thought cga-320 is the model #? I can't find the specs online for some reason.
> 
> Anyway what about this used regulator.
> 
> Victor VTS450E?
> 
> Here's the specs:
> 
> 
> Gas Service / AIR​
> Max Inlet 3000 PSIGI ​
> HP Gauge 0-4000 psi /kPa 28ooo​
> LP Gauge 0-60 psi ​



As Darkblade said CGA320 is the fitting type requireed for CO2. The Matheson regulator you mentioned already has that fitting, but I suggest asking the seller for more info on it, like the model#, etc. This is so you can find out the delivery pressure range, although its probably perfect due to the 0-30 psi low pressure gauge on it (possibly indicating a low delivery pressure range).

As for the Victor VTS450E, the delivery pressure range on that model is 10-200psi, which is high for our usage. Although that particular one might be set lower because the low pressure gauge is only 0-60 psi. Again you would need to find out for sure. There is more info on the delivery ranges of VTS450 series regulators here.

Man, where is LeftC when you need him? :hihi:


----------



## Left C

eiginh said:


> I plan on purchasing this regulator Matheson Gas Regulator CGA-320 Connector 3000/30 PSI. Is that a decent regulator?


Victor, an ebaY seller called mrmotorcycles works with various dual stage regulators in the field. He told me that Matheson two stage regulators hold up really well.


----------



## Left C

S&KGray said:


> Man, where is LeftC when you need him? :hihi:


I got a new computer that has Windows 7 Ultimate and Office 2009. I've been playing with it. It's not hooked up to the internet yet though.


----------



## Left C

I have one of those Victor VTS450D's on the way. It is big and it weighs a little over 8½ pounds. It will turn over small and some aluminum CO2 canisters. Tighten it down. There were some pictures in this thread of a VTS450 regulator with either an Azoo or Milwaukee. It made the other one look like a tiny toy. :hihi::hihi:


----------



## S&KGray

Left C said:


> I got a new computer that has Windows 7 Ultimate and Office 2009. I've been playing with it. It's not hooked up to the internet yet though.


Awesome, I am running Windows 7 Ultimate on my home desktop and on a spare drive on my work laptop. :thumbsup:

Btw, I got in my Nupro B-2MG2 metering valve.


----------



## Left C

I like it so far. I got a heck of a deal on it.


----------



## eiginh

....Headache...:help:

I guess I should be looking for models in the 200 range? I'm setting up only for a 10g and maybe splitting into another 10g....:icon_lol:


----------



## Left C

eiginh said:


> ....Headache...:help:
> 
> I guess I should be looking for models in the 200 range? I'm setting up only for a 10g and maybe splitting into another 10g....:icon_lol:


I have two 10g that are split into two tanks. I use Hagen ladders for a bubble counter and CO2 diffusion. 

I use a Hagen two valve for splitting the CO2 into two aquariums. It is fits relay good and it doesn't leak CO2. It's cheap too.

This is the regulator that I use for that purpose. VTS253A-1993 regulator, Clippard solenoid, Ideal metering valve.


----------



## eiginh

Is that for sale? lol :wink:


----------



## Left C

eiginh said:


> Is that for sale? lol :wink:


I'm using it on two aquariums right now. That's a nice regulator.


----------



## eiginh

lol I was kidding... I'm planning on purchasing a Victor VTS450E, hopefully no one outbids me. Hopefully I can work around with it having a pressure 0-60 psi


----------



## Left C

eiginh said:


> lol I was kidding... I'm planning on purchasing a Victor VTS450E, hopefully no one outbids me. Hopefully I can work around with it having a pressure 0-60 psi


I know that you were kidding.

I'm surprised that your E model has a 0 to 60 psi gauge. Some models have a 10 - 200 PSIG gauge.

This is the same regulator that is shown in my avatar. Victor Model #VTS-253D-320


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## eiginh

Links is not working and I just got outbid.... Man! I'm thinking of buying this model GPT270D what do you think?


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## eiginh

S&KGray said:


> As Darkblade said CGA320 is the fitting type requireed for CO2. The Matheson regulator you mentioned already has that fitting, but I suggest asking the seller for more info on it, like the model#, etc. This is so you can find out the delivery pressure range, although its probably perfect due to the 0-30 psi low pressure gauge on it (possibly indicating a low delivery pressure range).
> 
> As for the Victor VTS450E, the delivery pressure range on that model is 10-200psi, which is high for our usage. Although that particular one might be set lower because the low pressure gauge is only 0-60 psi. Again you would need to find out for sure. There is more info on the delivery ranges of VTS450 series regulators here.
> 
> Man, where is LeftC when you need him? :hihi:


Where did you get that link from? I want to see the specs for other models as well. Can you provide please? :icon_smil


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## airborne_r6

eiginh said:


> Links is not working and I just got outbid.... Man! I'm thinking of buying this model GPT270D what do you think?


Late next week I should have a couple two stage regulators up for sale on here. They are victor, dual-stage high purity series. I dont remember the numbers right now but they are perfect for our application. I am just waiting on some parts to get them set up and some time to test them out and make sure they arent leaking and are working correctly. They will most likely be ~$90 shipped.


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## Left C

....


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## j-gens

i believe the gtp 270 is a dual stage


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## j-gens

not positive on that though^
if they are looking at the model A its working pressures are only 0-15 psig
here page 117
http://www.sealseat.com/pdf/VICTOR.pdf


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## eiginh

The first link you posted is not working. The second one is and yes that is the one I was looking at. What do you think of Airgas Models?


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## Left C

eiginh said:


> The first link you posted is not working. The second one is and yes that is the one I was looking at. What do you think of Airgas Models?


I fixed the links. 

I've never tried any AirGas regulators. I use Victors. I haven't seen any posts about AirGas regulators. More than likely they should work fine for our use unless it is defective.

Find a dual stage regulator with either a low pressure gauge that reads 0-30 or 0-60 PSI and you may like it. Some of the higher PSI models will work too, like 0 to 200 PSI. That is what the regulator in my avatar is and what the link above is. I don't have any problems with it. It seems that the lower pressure regulators work better for our use because they have a finer adjustment.


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## S&KGray

Left C said:


> The GPT270 is new to me. I've never seen one before. I think that it a single stage.





j-gens said:


> i believe the gtp 270 is a dual stage


The GPT 270 is dual stage, see here. (page 3)

I was looking at that one on eBay several weeks ago when the seller had it posted at $20, after I asked him about the model# and other stuff, he changed the starting bid to what it is now. :thumbsdow


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## S&KGray

VTS 253A
ebay Item # 250528957961

from mrmotorcycles, and must be a -1993 cause its chrome


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## Left C

S&KGray said:


> The GPT 270 is dual stage, see here. (page 3)
> 
> I was looking at that one on eBay several weeks ago when the seller had it posted at $20, after I asked him about the model# and other stuff, he changed the starting bid to what it is now. :thumbsdow


That's good to know.

Thanks a bunch!


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## S&KGray

Also thetoolcribguy still has 4 VTS 450D and 1 VTS 450E, all are starting bid $9.99


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## j-gens

so if the low pressure side has a guage that goes to 30psi that that mean its working pressure will be 0-30 psi?

or can it be only a 0-15 psi... and have a gauge that goes to 30 psi


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## S&KGray

It should, unless the gauge was replaced disregarding the working pressure of the regulator.

Edit: which I hope no one would knowingly do...


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## S&KGray

Btw, mrmotorcycles also has a couple Concoa 212 regulators for sale too...


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## Left C

S&KGray said:


> VTS 253A
> ebay Item # 250528957961
> 
> from mrmotorcycles, and must be a -1993 cause its chrome


That is the regulator to get!

Almost two years ago he was selling them for $20 plus shipping.:icon_lol:

He had several new ones last year too.


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## j-gens

Airgas Y12-215A 
then why does this model have a max outlet of 15 psig and a guage that goes to 30?
http://www.airgas.com/documents/pdf...en purp pressure regulator-brass twostage.pdf


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## S&KGray

Yes, gauge range should be slightly higher than actual delivery range. Gauge range should not be lower then delivery range or gauge can be damaged when working pressure is set above the gauges measurable range.


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## eiginh

Left C, So I should purchase this regulator VTS 253A? Is the 55 too much or well worth it?


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## herns

Left C said:


> That is the regulator to get!
> 
> Almost two years ago he was selling them for $20 plus shipping.:icon_lol:
> 
> He had several new ones last year too.


Thats a very good Concoa 212 series with a reasonable price.
mrmotorcycle said he prefer Concoa over Victor regulator.


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## Left C

eiginh said:


> Left C, So I should purchase this regulator VTS 253A? Is the 55 too much or well worth it?


PM sent.


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## eiginh

Sweet, I just purchased it. (Thanks Left C) Now I gotta find the rest of the items. The real hunting begins! (Now how do I start...)


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## eiginh

airborne_r6 said:


> Late next week I should have a couple two stage regulators up for sale on here. They are victor, dual-stage high purity series. I dont remember the numbers right now but they are perfect for our application. I am just waiting on some parts to get them set up and some time to test them out and make sure they arent leaking and are working correctly. They will most likely be ~$90 shipped.


Pls make me on top of your list


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## Momotaro

*GANG!*

In light of some previous conversations with some participants in this thread with consideration of a relationship between a poster and one of the people conducting a good portion of these regulator auctions over on eBay in mind, links to auctions in any form just can't be allowed!

We have contacted people in the past to please stop linking, so now we'll mention it publicly. Feel free to PM links at will! 

We know everyone has enjoyed this thread and gleaned a good deal of information from it. This is a great thread and we'd like it to keep going in the form it has taken, so please, stop eBay linking!

Thank you all! Please continue to enjoy!


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## herns

Left C said:


> That is the regulator to get!
> 
> Almost two years ago he was selling them for $20 plus shipping.:icon_lol:
> 
> He had several new ones last year too.


Hi Left C,

I havent seen this before ad it seems its a new look of Victor Regulators.

Ebay item *number/link removed*


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## Darkblade48

That's definitely an interesting new look!　From the looks of it, the regulator would be mounted sideways...


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## Left C

herns said:


> Hi Left C,
> 
> I havent seen this before ad it seems its a new look of Victor Regulators.
> 
> Ebay item *item number removed*.


Please read Momotaro's post right above your post.



Momotaro said:


> *GANG!*
> 
> In light of some previous conversations with some participants in this thread with consideration of a relationship between a poster and one of the people conducting a good portion of these regulator auctions over on eBay in mind, links to auctions in any form just can't be allowed!
> 
> We have contacted people in the past to please stop linking, so now we'll mention it publicly. Feel free to PM links at will!
> 
> We know everyone has enjoyed this thread and gleaned a good deal of information from it. This is a great thread and we'd like it to keep going in the form it has taken, so please, stop eBay linking!
> 
> Thank you all! Please continue to enjoy!


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## Left C

Hi guys!

My computer is acting screwy. Sometimes I can get on the internet and sometimes I can't. I thought I had it fixed, but it is acting screwy again. Ever since Microsoft did all their recent security patches and there were the remnants of a tropical storm hovering over me for days and messing with my internet provider's cell phone towers (Clear), this computer has been acting goofy. (I'm glad that my new one with Windows 7 Ultimate wasn't hooked up to the internet.)

Until I can get it going ....

Please post your questions here on this forum. 

Pleas note that it is completely permissible for you to PM anyone concerning what is on ebaY using a link to it.

There are many great people that can answer your questions. We have a good following of very knowledgeable and capable people here. Many answers can also be found within this thread. Page #1 has a 'Table of Contents' with many links to subjects within this thread. You can also use the 'Search This Thread' feature as well.

In order to keep this thread working smoothly, we have to find ways to communicate about specific questions that was as simple as what we were doing, posting ebaY links without breaking the rules. We certainly can't send everyone a PM about something that is good, cheap, will l this work,it won't work, it's bad, it's new, etc. You get the picture. Any thoughts?


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## airborne_r6

Left C said:


> In order to keep this thread working smoothly, we have to find ways to communicate about specific questions that was as simple as what we were doing, posting ebaY links without breaking the rules. We certainly can't send everyone a PM about something that is good, cheap, will l this work,it won't work, it's bad, it's new, etc. You get the picture. Any thoughts?


If the issue is direct links to ebay why not just post the item number, all it takes is a quick copy/paste of the item number into the search bar on ebay to bring up the post in question.


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## S&KGray

airborne_r6 said:


> If the issue is direct links to ebay why not just post the item number, all it takes is a quick copy/paste of the item number into the search bar on ebay to bring up the post in question.


Under Herns post above:

"_Last edited by sewingalot; Yesterday at 10:33 AM. Reason: Please don't link/give item numbers for ebay sales. Thanks."_


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## eiginh

I read on the contents that I might need a low pressure regulator if I use a Clippard needle valve, if I purchase Fabco NV-55** needle valve would I need a low pressure regulator?

**I think that's what model # it is.


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## Gatekeeper

why would you need a low pressure regulator with a clippard needle valve? Thats nonsense.


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## Darkblade48

You don't need a low pressure regulator if you are using a Clippard needle valve, but it does afford more control than just the needle valve alone.

But, instead of spending money on both a Clippard needle valve and the low pressure regulator, you can just get the Fabco NV-55 needle valve, and you will not need anything else. The Fabco needle valve is much superior to the Clippard.


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## eiginh

I assumed I needed but I guess not.

On Rex's site http://www.rexgrigg.com/regulator.htm, he uses a LPR and figured it might help. "If you are not using a solenoid and/pr a LPR then you just use another pipe nipple and coupling along with a 1/8" to 10-32 adapter to mount the needle valve." I do not completely understand this. Will the Fabco NV-55 fit on a Clippard solenoid or will I need a fitting for the solenoid?


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## Momotaro

> You don't need a low pressure regulator if you are using a Clippard needle valve, but it does afford more control than just the needle valve alone.


Exactly.

LPR came and went with the little Clippard needle valve. 



> Will the Fabco NV-55 fit on a Clippard solenoid or will I need a fitting for the solenoid?


No. The Fabco NV-55 cannot be attached directly to a Clippard solenoid. You will need two fittings if you want to run the Fabco NV-55 onboard. You need a 1/8" to #10/32 reducing bushing and a #10/32 closed nipple.

I have said this several times on the forum, but will mention it again. The connection mentioned above is a little weak, in my opinion. That #10/32 closed nipple is a tiny, thin walled fitting. It won't take much to snap/crack that fitting and compromise your CO2 flow. By design, the NV-55 is a panel mount valve, so it is quite heavy, which adds more stress to that connection.

Best bet with the NV-55 is to run it inline, or you can run it inline and panel mount it inside/outside your aquarium stand.


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## Gatekeeper

panel mount is the way to go. It comes with the washers and nut already. You just need to drill a whole and mount it. Like Momo said, the 10/32 is a weak connection (to say the least) and its a heavy needle valve for the connection.

But for the price of the LPR and a the clippard, you could certainly bump up one more notch to a better NV than the fabco and go swag or even better go with a higher end regulator like the ones posted in this thread or others on the market.


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## Momotaro

Clippard needle valve is just a little valve basically used in air applications. 

They are very similar to the valves used by dentists to operate their drills if I recall correctly. Pretty much meant to be run wide open. Open wide.


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## eiginh

I just bought a VTS253A-1993, can you provide pictures on how to panel mount it or an instruction?


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## Momotaro

The regulator you have doesn't mean a thing when it comes to panel mounting a valve. Not at all. It can even be a single stage regulator!  Your not mounting the regulator, just the needle valve.

Panel mounting means you are attaching the valve to a plate or panel basically. You'd be running tubing from a hose barb to the needle valve that is attached to said panel. 

You would have to drill a hole of the same diameter of the valve in whatever surface you deem fit for your own situation. Then you would place the valve in the hole and use the mounting washers and bolts provided with the valve. You'd tighten the washers and bolts down to hold the valve in place.

You would need to take the thickness of the panel/plate in relation to the valve itself into consideration of course.


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## eiginh

jeez, any simpler way? 

I think Left C's guide is a bit easier than the DIY panel.


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## S&KGray

If you don't already have the Clippard solenoid, then buy one that will take 1/8 or 1/4 NPT fittings. Then you don't have to mess around with 10-32 or worry about panel mounting. I have a Victor SGT 500 and a Nupro/Swagelok metering valve (1/8 male NPT), also have a couple Parker solenoids on the way (1/4 NPT). A couple people on here are using Parker solenoids from eBay that have 1/8 NPT fitting. I should have got one of those but I got a deal on 2 that I'm getting.


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## Momotaro

> jeez, any simpler way?
> 
> I think Left C's guide is a bit easier than the DIY panel.


To panel mount? No, that is how you do it.

I brought up panel mounting the NV-55 (which is how it is designed to be installed) as an alternative to toying around with those delicate little #10/32 closed nipple fittings, or having the NV-55 dangling by CO2 tubing.

Is it easy to do? Pretty much. All you need is a drill bit of the proper size, provided you have a place to panel mount it.


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## S&KGray

eiginh said:


> Sweet, I just purchased it. (Thanks Left C) Now I gotta find the rest of the items.  The real hunting begins! (Now how do I start...)


Did you see this post: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...-stage-regulator-pimp-club-35.html#post912666


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## eiginh

I just checked it out, thanks for the link! :smile:


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## Left C

*Atlanta Area Aquarium Association Forum – cO2 regulator*

Check the following out. It was posted between 10-08-09 and 11-10-09.

*Atlanta Area Aquarium Association Forum – CO2 regulator*
From: http://www.atlantaaquarium.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=1193


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## bradac56

I picked up a Swagelok (SS-2MG-MH-SS11) needle valve over the weekend for $52.00 shipped. I'm not sure that's a great price but I wanted to try a Swag this time around. The seller has seven more for sale but it's a "Buy Now" only auction, PM if you want the link.

I also got a Victor VTS-253D-320 from another seller for $37 shipped. I'm bidding on a couple of crazy low Concoa's ($9.99 no minimum) that I'm hopeful on.

- Brad


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## michu

I was over at Tom Barr's site and noticed that this thread seems to be continuing over there. Does it have anything to do with posts going *poof* here?


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## Momotaro

Like many long threads, there are times when some things need to be edited.

Glad to see folks are enjoying the topic on Tom Barr's site.


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## Gatekeeper

There are many topics that cross post between planted aquaria sites. Tom's site would seem to be one of the forums that could utilize the info.


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## herns

*Victor Thread*

Is the victor thread moving to Tom Barrs site? Lets go!!!:biggrin:


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## michu

For the good of the aquarist hobby, yes.

Kinda off topic, but does anybody know where to buy diy type products, ferts, and aquarium-paraphenalia that aren't listed as sponsors here? I'm in the market for new suppliers.


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## Momotaro

> Kinda off topic, but does anybody know where to buy diy type products, ferts, and aquarium-paraphenalia that aren't listed as sponsors here? I'm in the market for new suppliers.


Very off topic. Try Rex Grigg.

Thread is going off topic. Comments/people are getting antagonistic. Time to close it down for a while.


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