# Beamswork & TC420 ... Need some help



## WmTasker (Feb 3, 2017)

So I have the Beamswork 72" LED Strip light and I also purchased the TC420 to control it. I have included a pic of both sides of Strip light. 1st pic is timer side and 2nd pic is plug/switch side. The strip light looks like it has ground as common and the positive is the side that turns on each color. The TC420 seems to use the positive as the common and controls the LEDs brightness with the Negative. 

What I am trying to do: I would like to just plug the Beamswork power supply into the jack of the TC420, then run outputs to in timer input to control the LEDs. I would like to be able to control both the day mode and the night mode on the Beamswork. I just want to keep it simple. 

1. The power supply for the beamswork is DC15V 6A. Does it matter whether I plug the power into the jack or hook it up to the terminals?
2. Is there a way to use the timer plug to control the lights?
3. I can turn the switch to have both color lights on or just blue on. Can I set up the TC420 to control both channels?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> 1. The power supply for the beamswork is DC15V 6A. Does it matter whether I plug the power into the jack or hook it up to the terminals?


PS hooks to the TC-420..Easiest way to power the tc


> 2. Is there a way to use the timer plug to control the lights?


Not that "I'm" aware of


> 3. I can turn the switch to have both color lights on or just blue on. Can I set up the TC420 to control both channels?


Def possible BUT it depends (and most likely not positive) on what the Beamswork uses as "common"...
more than likely you need to reverse the TC-420.. Like w/ the Finnex:
This was used to drive the RGB channels seperately for a Plantd plus.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting.php?do=show&type=f&id=87217&title=1211151839c.jpg

finnex used neg as "ground".. so the added MOSFETs reversed this...








https://youtu.be/TyV1SJ8LEdU

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/796442-planted-dimmer-warranty-voiding-picture-heavy-2.html

I could guess that the "brown" is plus. The switch goes between white and blue.. so tapping off those 2 white wires should be the "channels".. but like I said positive..
TC-420 wants those to be negative..


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## WmTasker (Feb 3, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> PS hooks to the TC-420..Easiest way to power the tc


Can I just plug it into the input jack on the right side? Or do I have to cut the plug off the power supply and connect it the terminal inputs on the left side. 



> Def possible BUT it depends (and most likely not positive) on what the Beamswork uses as "common"...
> more than likely you need to reverse the TC-420.. Like w/ the Finnex:
> This was used to drive the RGB channels seperately for a Plantd plus.
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting.php?do=show&type=f&id=87217&title=1211151839c.jpg


When the power supply comes in to the beamswork, the negative connects to the board and the positive goes to the switch. So I assume that the common input would be negative. I didn't check this with a multimeter, I just assumed by the wire colors. Can I switch the TC420? Instead of the V+ terminal being positive, I would need it to be negative and then the individual channels would control the LED with positive output instead of negative?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

WmTasker said:


> Can I switch the TC420? Instead of the V+ terminal being positive, I would need it to be negative and then the individual channels would control the LED with positive output instead of negative?


not in the way you may be thinking.. but like this:










Internal MOSFET is NPN type and "chops" the positive line.
You just need to add an external PNP Mosfet (of correct voltage ect.)
and use the internal to supply a "signal" to the gate (N) and then control the positive leg.

ONE positive. w/ larger MOSFETS you can control larger than 4A lights...

Ignore everything to the LEFT of C/E, not important.. 
b5 is your led string
I believe you can add a resistor at c/g to limit current.. or:


> Might mean its a good idea to put the 200 ohm series resistor on the gate just to make sure you don't get too much ringing.











square on left (for fun) is an optically isolated transistor..so you don't burn out the Aduino..

https://youtu.be/V3EdwQmYyk0


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## WmTasker (Feb 3, 2017)

Thanks for the input. Maybe I'll just settle on only control one channel so I don't have to rewire everything. 

Do you know if I have to use the terminal inputs or can I just use the input plug to power the lights?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

you wire the Beamswork power brick to the TC-420
Then wire the output from the TC-420 to the head..

If you don't want to wreck anything, just get matching plugs.


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## Bunsen Honeydew (Feb 21, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> you wire the Beamswork power brick to the TC-420
> Then wire the output from the TC-420 to the head..
> 
> If you don't want to wreck anything, just get matching plugs.


So, just to follow up on this and ask a possibly silly question (I'm a chemist, not an EE), could I simply buy an extension like this and wire it onto the TC420, then use it inline between the power supply and light without actually having to mod the light at all? Seems pretty simple, but I have found that when it seems this straight forward it is because I am doing it wrong.


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## WmTasker (Feb 3, 2017)

Yep. That's is exactly what I ended up doing. You can't control each color individually but it works great.


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## Bunsen Honeydew (Feb 21, 2017)

WmTasker said:


> Yep. That's is exactly what I ended up doing. You can't control each color individually but it works great.


Sweet, thanks. I have the extra timer and think that the white only looks bad (on my tank anyway). I think programming the controller to have more viewing time trumps the blue moon light anyway. I'll have to get one of these and put it together.


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## WmTasker (Feb 3, 2017)

I just leave my light on at 2% until midnight then they go down to 1% for the rest of the night. Looks good as moon light


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

so how does this unit do with the 72in light? that is 6amps i beleave compared to the 4amps the tc420 is "rated" for any issues so far with it?


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## WmTasker (Feb 3, 2017)

So far mine has worked great with no issues. The unit is always cool to the touch.


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

WmTasker said:


> Yep. That's is exactly what I ended up doing. You can't control each color individually but it works great.


 @WmTasker, @jeffkrol, is there any way to control the colors individually if I wanted to do more work? I noticed on the diagram jeffkrol posted that the different colored leds on the finnex were wired to the different tc420 channels. But, from my precursory glance at this beamswork unit, it looks like some of the other colors are wired together with the whites so maybe not? But then again, I don't know what logic circuits are in line and if there's some magic that can be done to control it anyway. 

thanks


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

ipkiss said:


> @*WmTasker*, @*jeffkrol*, is there any way to control the colors individually if I wanted to do more work? I noticed on the diagram jeffkrol posted that the different colored leds on the finnex were wired to the different tc420 channels. But, from my precursory glance at this beamswork unit, it looks like some of the other colors are wired together with the whites so maybe not? But then again, I don't know what logic circuits are in line and if there's some magic that can be done to control it anyway.
> 
> thanks


Can't be exact but switch lights either all diodes (white and blue) or just blue..
So of course it is possible but the nuts and bolts is ?

Main question, Like the Finnex is which polarity does the Beamswork use for "common"...
Not an issue w/ Finnex or Beamswork if one just controls the whole light as one..


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Can't be exact but switch lights either all diodes (white and blue) or just blue..
> So of course it is possible but the nuts and bolts is ?
> 
> Main question, Like the Finnex is which polarity does the Beamswork use for "common"...
> Not an issue w/ Finnex or Beamswork if one just controls the whole light as one..


I meant I wanted the ability to control green and red as well so I was hoping someone (cough *you* . mr. led lighting extraordinaire .. *cough  ) had figured it out .. and speaking of which, where'd you get that fancy box that houses your tc420 again? I thought I read in some thread that some other member had made it. Any change he/she is making more? 

thanks


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

ipkiss said:


> I meant I wanted the ability to control green and red as well so I was hoping someone (cough *you* . mr. led lighting extraordinaire .. *cough  ) had figured it out .. and speaking of which, where'd you get that fancy box that houses your tc420 again? I thought I read in some thread that some other member had made it. Any change he/she is making more?
> 
> thanks


you can't easily control colors that aren't already set up as "channels"..
https://youtu.be/V3EdwQmYyk0
This is the member who built the box.. Currently can't remeber his name her though..

Easier just to add RGB strips to the Beamswork and control those..
Cheap and done by some..
Though def. harder w/ the 5 row ones..


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> you can't easily control colors that aren't already set up as "channels"..
> https://youtu.be/V3EdwQmYyk0
> This is the member who built the box.. Currently can't remeber his name her though..
> 
> ...


Yeah, curses. Somehow I had the impression that it was easily done. Maybe was thinking of the finnex in your example. I was looking at the RGB strip idea too, but like you said, the rows are pretty tight and I'm not sure if I want to squeeze a strip in between. Furthermore, there seems to be some electronics randomly sprinkled in on the board that I don't want to tape over. Will have to look closer.


For the benefit of my newbie level of electronic dabbling, can you please expand on which PNP mosfet you're using? I noticed you wrote that we need one of correct voltage, but what does correct voltage mean? 

Does the specs on something like this P-channel mosfet mean that anything less than the max is okay for it to function correctly in the scenario that you've provided? 

https://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Components/General/FQP27P06.pdf

Absolute Maximum Ratings TC = 25°C unless otherwise noted
Thermal Characteristics
Symbol Parameter FQP27P06 Units
VDSS Drain-Source Voltage -60 V
ID Drain Current - Continuous (TC = 25°C) -27 A
- Continuous (TC = 100°C) -19.1 A
IDM Drain Current - Pulsed (Note 1) -108 A
VGSS Gate-Source Voltage ± 25 V

thanks!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

I'd judge by the amount of current at my planned voltage @ DC rating..

Secondly, ideally (though apparently others are useable, though w/ possible gate complications i.e 10V gate getting 5v will not "open" fully" is my understanding of it)) usable is one w /a gate in the "logic" range.TC-430 outputs +5 V if one jumpers off the gate trace to the internal MOSFET.

Can't say I know any of this exactly since I usually just take my ideas to "gurus".. but that,s what I found out..

A tutorial on MOSFETS is fairly easy to understand..

Let's step back a minute.. What do you want to control exactly.
a MOSFET "inversion" is only needed for some fixtures not others..
It wouldn't have been needed for the Finnex if one just wanted to dim the entire fixture..


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> I'd judge by the amount of current at my planned voltage @ DC rating..
> 
> Secondly, ideally (though apparently others are useable, though w/ possible gate complications i.e 10V gate getting 5v will not "open" fully" is my understanding of it)) usable is one w /a gate in the "logic" range.TC-430 outputs +5 V if one jumpers off the gate trace to the internal MOSFET.
> 
> ...


No, I DO actually want to investigate the ability to dim the two separate "channels". I've also spent the last couple hours trying to get a crash course (again!) on the mosfets because I had already looked into this the first time around -- wondering if I was ready to commit to this type of brain twisting :grin2: 

So, after all this, and trying to understand what you wrote as well, I think I found this unit that might work..
https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/ND/NDB6020P.pdf

At the risk of oversimplifying some math, given that I have a 24" DA-Spec that claims to have 60 x 0.5W leds, it draws 30W, so that means 2A at 15V. 










So this one turns on at -4.5V, and 15V @ 2A is under the safe operating area.. 

Did I interpret that right? May I ask what unit did you use so that I may compare with that datasheet? I can't imagine that I need something that draws so much differently from what you did with the finnex as I'm not exactly building my own high draw led unit.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

since all you can possibly do is "all on" or "blue only" not sure its worth it but here goes..

First determine the polarity of the wire going to the switch:

https://electronics.stackexchange.c...e-blue-leds-separetely-on-this-aquarium-light

IF it's a negative wire then you are all set to go..Just run the "blue" wire to the TC-420 ch1
Other to Ch2.
Use the Beamswork PS to power the TC-420

IF positive then you would need to reverse the MOSFET..

going back to the orig.. then if you use the Beamswork power supply you need a PNP MOSFET w/ a useable gate voltage of 12V.
Problem can arise by having ALL the same voltages AFAICT..
SOOOO best to power the TC-420 w/ a 9 or 10V PS and just running the Beamswork PS through the Drain source pathway..










Need help on simple MOSFET circuit - Reef Central Online Community

Still learning..


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> since all you can possibly do is "all on" or "blue only" not sure its worth it but here goes..


Indeed. I broke everything apart again and traced the circuits. Confirmed, it's all on or blue only. Can't even do blue independent during all on mode... Wondering if it's even worth it to stick with this light ... 

In addition, I've confirmed that the switch is controlling the positive wire so reversing seems necessary.



> going back to the orig.. then if you use the Beamswork power supply you need a PNP MOSFET w/ a useable gate voltage of 12V.
> Problem can arise by having ALL the same voltages AFAICT..
> SOOOO best to power the TC-420 w/ a 9 or 10V PS and just running the Beamswork PS through the Drain source pathway..


Really now? Can't even use the same voltage? This makes it proportionately much more work. I thought I could've run everything from the same 15V power supply like in your first diagram ... How did you do it if your finnex has the same positive wire issue?

At this point, I should just ask you for all of your part numbers and exact light model so I can merely reproduce what you have ... jeez. *mutters in a corner* maybe I should've just bought that refurbished satellite plus pro instead and let my existing iaqua lite control it via the IR.

Well, whichever route I decide after I sleep on this a little, much thanks for your help.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Yea.. Don't really think that much work is necessary for so little reward (there are plenty of "moonlight" strips one could stick on)
https://youtu.be/0hlTKZcqB30

Sorry to be so vague but I was more of the "theoreticist" here Linn built it..

And over 1 yr ago. Checked my mail ect.. Can't find any definitive parts..


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## ipkiss (Aug 9, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Yea.. Don't really think that much work is necessary for so little reward (there are plenty of "moonlight" strips one could stick on)
> https://youtu.be/0hlTKZcqB30
> 
> Sorry to be so vague but I was more of the "theoreticist" here Linn built it..
> ...


Yea, agree. 

Serves me right for not looking into it more carefully. I thought people were merely just not doing the RGB dimming with the TC420 because they didn't want to get into the dirty bits... didn't know it was practically 'impossible'. I mean, I guess I could go cut the PCB traces and reestablish them how I want with a trace repair pen ( didn't know these things existed! ), but man, that's just getting out of hand.

It was a great mind exercise for any future projects I suppose. I thought about adding the RGB strips which I have (part of another theorized fixture using a klus triada housing), but I'm not sure if I want a fixture with so many wires running out of it as the control wires would have to be independent of what's going into it already. 

As for parts, I dug through the thread you gave me at reefcentral and I believe Linn ultimately used a NTE2373 mosfet and a 200ohm resistor, but on a Finnex fixture. 

Let this be a warning to all who see this later .. you practically *CAN NOT* independently dim the RGB leds on a DA-FSpec. The only thing you can usefully do is dim the entire fixture.


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## Chacapamac (May 22, 2018)

*Need more infos SVP*



jeffkrol said:


> you wire the Beamswork power brick to the TC-420
> Then wire the output from the TC-420 to the head..
> 
> If you don't want to wreck anything, just get matching plugs.


You said “*Wire the Beamswork power brick to the TC-420*” 
_— If I use a matching plug extension, do you connect the power supply directly into the onboard TC-420 Power Input jack or I have to cut one side of the extension and plug it to the terminals (If so How do I know witch is positive from negative) ?_

You said “*Then wire the output from the TC-420 to the head*” What do you mean here ?
_— If I use a matching plug extension, do I cut one side of the extension, wired it to V+ & Channel 1 (Again, witch wire (with Beamswork) go on what)_

Sorry to ask, I want to be sure ?

*Also, Connecting trough the Timer port (4 pins) ideas...*
With the Beamswork, I was thinking that it will be possible to easily control each channel passing by the timer port ?
My idea was to connect the Power Supply to the TC and find what wire in the timer port control each channel, from there?

*My logic was:*
If the timer can control independently the white light and the blue light (On the 6500k Beamswork - Don’t knowhow the timer work on the full spectrum Ramp) You should be able to control the light independently on the TC-420 — I was thinking to study the wiring (in the 4 pin Jack) buy a 4 pin extension, cut one side to connect the TC-420????

Not sure if my logic work?


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## madcrafted (Dec 23, 2017)

ipkiss said:


> Let this be a warning to all who see this later .. you practically *CAN NOT* independently dim the RGB leds on a DA-FSpec. The only thing you can usefully do is dim the entire fixture.


Good to know. Those that purchase such a fixture as these are just looking for decent PAR values to grow medium/med high light plants on a budget. These fixtures will do this well. I think I paid like $40 for a 24" DA FSPEC and it can grow pretty much any species I want in my somewhat shallow tank. I rarely go above 75% on my TC-420 for this light... and that's with a CO2 injected tank. You'll be hard pressed to find a better fixture as far as PAR per dollar is concerned. 

If you want independent RGB dimming, you'll want to up your budget significantly, unless you are tech savvy and good with a soldering iron.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

1) Check polariy w/ a volt/ohm meter.."Usually" center is positive but NOT guaranteed.
2) Ease of controlling individual channels depends on how the orig light is designed. Some, like Finnex have negative as "common" tc-420 uses positive as common. 
Makes building circuits more efficient NPN mosfet vs PNP mosfet.. LONG story.

Wouldn't bother w/ "splitting" the Beamswork. just do it normally. 
It was done w/ the Finnex because you had 3 channels..R,B,W
Easier just to tack on a colored strip though that is somewhat problematic due to Beamswork/Strips voltage mismatch.
Beamsworks can be 15V (12V, 21v-ish are other options) strips run either 12/24V. There are work arounds..like taking advantage of voltage drop in power diodes.. 
still recommending just going from power brick to tc-420 to light head Skip messing w/ the timer plug. 
Feel free to try to determine which "leg" (+ or -) the Beamswork uses as ground to the timer..just personally see little advantage to it here, then again moonlight isn't my thing and not enough blue to really do a lot of decent color shifting except to more yellow..


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## madcrafted (Dec 23, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Beamsworks can be 15V (12V, 21v-ish are other options) strips run either 12/24V. There are work arounds..like taking advantage of voltage drop in power diodes..
> still recommending just going from power brick to tc-420 to light head Skip messing w/ the timer plug.
> Feel free to try to determine which "leg" (+ or -) the Beamswork uses as ground to the timer..just personally see little advantage to it here, then again moonlight isn't my thing and not enough blue to really do a lot of decent color shifting except to more yellow..


Agreed. One thing that I was concerned about was running my DA FSPEC off my 12V power supply, being as the powerbrick that came with the Beamswork was 15V/3A. I figured there would be "clipping" running it off lower voltage but nothing noticeable to me. Maybe my eyes have gotten worse with old age, I dunno. Maybe they overshoot the voltage on their bricks because it can't maintain a steady 12V from the voltage regulators they use?? Or maybe I'm not getting the full intensity from the lights. Either way, it works and my plants seem happy.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

madcrafted said:


> Agreed. One thing that I was concerned about was running my DA FSPEC off my 12V power supply, being as the powerbrick that came with the Beamswork was 15V/3A. I figured there would be "clipping" running it off lower voltage but nothing noticeable to me. Maybe my eyes have gotten worse with old age, I dunno. Maybe they overshoot the voltage on their bricks because it can't maintain a steady 12V from the voltage regulators they use?? Or maybe I'm not getting the full intensity from the lights. Either way, it works and my plants seem happy.


Others that substituted 12v for the 15v reported light losses..
The reason they used 12v was to add strips to the Beamswork..


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1...rk-double-hi-lumen-30-gen4-2.html#post6037626


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## madcrafted (Dec 23, 2017)

Yeah, I figured this much. Thanks for posting that link. I see you mention that most LED have ample headroom so I suppose I could run all of my fixtures off of a 15V PSU even though half of them run of 12V. I just don't need that kind of intensity for the depth of my tanks. I'm never over 75% on any of them as it is. 

Apologies to OP for going off topic... as usual. lol


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

madcrafted said:


> Yeah, I figured this much. Thanks for posting that link. I see you mention that most LED have ample headroom so I suppose I could run all of my fixtures off of a 15V PSU even though half of them run of 12V. I just don't need that kind of intensity for the depth of my tanks. I'm never over 75% on any of them as it is.
> 
> Apologies to OP for going off topic... as usual. lol



Split the difference.. you can get Meanwell power supplies of 15V w/ "limited" voltage tweaking i.e +/- 10%..
most strips are bse on "automotive" standards where 14V from the alternator is not unreasonable..


Dropping a ps to 13.8 is a common ground.. and if necessary a small diode in series will cut each down .7V...

Graphic:












> The voltage dropped across a conducting, forward-biased diode is called the forward voltage. Forward voltage for a diode varies only slightly for changes in forward current and temperature, and is fixed by the chemical composition of the P-N junction. Silicon diodes have a forward voltage of *approximately 0.7 volts*.
> 
> 2 in series(out to strips) and you "drop" 1.4V on the strip lines..AFAICT


LRS-350-15 is capable of 350W and down to 13.5V...
https://www.alliedelec.com/mean-well-usa-lrs-350-15/70696564/
Can run lots of Beamsworks..
Does need to be tested.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Followup regarding the timer port..maybe.. a bit confusing here..
Left end is the timer port , right the switch and power..
all neg ground AFAICT so would need the PNP Mosfet thingy..so you can "pulse" the plus side.


https://www.nano-reef.com/forums/topic/380801-beamswork-and-tc420-need-help/
http://www.tribalvisiontruck.com/diyledlight.htm


First writeup mentions the diodes and I have always wondered how they did all or blue..
Needs some more probing .


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## Chacapamac (May 22, 2018)

*Can this work ?*










Just want to know if this work to dim all colours with the TC420 ?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Chacapamac said:


> Just want to know if this work to dim all colours with the TC420 ?



That is the "classic" way, as long as polarity is correct..obviously.


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## Chacapamac (May 22, 2018)

Thanks Jeffkrol, really appreciate.
If I need a moon light, I add one to my liking. I think that playing with the separate colours on these are tricky and prone to incorrect lighting.

I just need a timer/dimmer.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Chacapamac said:


> Thanks Jeffkrol, really appreciate.
> If I need a moon light, I add one to my liking. I think that playing with the separate colours on these are tricky and prone to incorrect lighting.
> 
> I just need a timer/dimmer.



Actually, the more I look at it the more you just follow the "Finnex" way w/ adding the appropriate PNP mosfet circuit and jacking into the timer port...










Green wire = white/blue (could seperate by removing blue jumper)
Blue = blue
Black = ground 
Red/Brown = positive

Just need to "pulse" the Pos to green and pos to blue wires..
Incomplete drawing btw









any real electronic guys want to clean it up??


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## jayo (Sep 21, 2016)

Chacapamac said:


> Just want to know if this work to dim all colours with the TC420 ?


That's the way I did mine, and it works great. It's so much better than just a "timer and a dimmer", since you aren't set to dimming just to one level.

You can ramp light level up and down to avoid quick light changes that will scare your inhabitants. You can have long periods of low light that let you view the tank without having to worry that it will contribute to an algal bloom, and then figure out how bright your "growing photoperiod" needs to be for your tank to grow it's best.

For example, I ramp from 0 to 30% over half an hour (sunrise), then spend 2.5 hours at 30% (twilight - plenty of light to view, way too low to contribute much to algae or plant growth), then seven hours at 90% (ramped up in 20 minutes), ramp down in the reverse pattern. I've changed the pattern and the levels as my tank got established and I learned what made it work best. I also have two "always on" modes (at 30% and 80%) in case I want to switch to a preset light for viewing at an unusual time. It is so useful to be able to fine-tune your lighting regimen this way.


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## The Dude1 (Jun 17, 2016)

I'm bumping this up as I think this will be my next project. I saw mention of meanwell power supply. What ratings do I need to run a DA and FSEC off on 1 tc-420. I would simply like to do a 1 hour ramp up and one hour ramp down with both fixtures running off of one power supply.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

The Dude1 said:


> I'm bumping this up as I think this will be my next project. I saw mention of meanwell power supply. What ratings do I need to run a DA and FSEC off on 1 tc-420. I would simply like to do a 1 hour ramp up and one hour ramp down with both fixtures running off of one power supply.



Need the watt output of the fspec/da and voltage has to be the same (well generally speaking)
Whats on the output specs of the 2 power bricks?


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## The Dude1 (Jun 17, 2016)

Where or what are you buying to get those wires with the plug that go from power supply to TC421 and from TC421 to fixture? That looks really look and would make mounting really clean.
The power supplies are 15v and 21v most extensions I see are 12v at best


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## MichaelBrock (May 31, 2011)

The Dude1 said:


> Where or what are you buying to get those wires with the plug that go from power supply to TC421 and from TC421 to fixture? That looks really look and would make mounting really clean.
> The power supplies are 15v and 21v most extensions I see are 12v at best


I really like the idea of going with the TC420 (or TC421 if the wifi actually works...lots of bad experiences with "wifi ready" appliances) for my Beamswork 6500K DA 36". Did you (or anyone else) every find the exact part numbers for the plugs? Or even just the sizes & polarity? I'd rather not have to destroy the Beamswork wiring if I don't have to.


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## Wobblebonk (Feb 13, 2018)

Almost all the beamsworks use 5.5mm od /2.1mm id standard dc barrel plugs, like these...
https://smile.amazon.com/SIM-NAT-Connector-Security-Surveillance/dp/B071LQFQ17

I prefer the 421 just because it's my understanding that to do ramping on the 420 you have to do each step individually like 9:00 10% 9:03 11% 9:05 12% or whatever while 420 is every 30 mins and will ramp between those points on its own. Not gonna lie the wifi config is a pain to set up still because you're making a schedule entering values for every 30 mins on a phone.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Just starting this off here..
Sometimes the VERSION of the OS is problematic..

As to the plug yes it's known..Others will respond here.
One thing though that I remember is that sometimes it's a mechanical fit issue which is overcome w/ force.. 
i.e the plus tight around the waterproofing jacket.

most are center positive, easy enough to verify w/ your power supply and a VOM.
There are only 2 sizes of plug to choose from... AFAICT


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## MichaelBrock (May 31, 2011)

Thanks for the reply Wobblebonk. Looking at the "documentation" for the TC420 and TC421 (tc240.net) it does look like you're correct that the TC420 doesn't actually fade. For example from the description in an eBay listing, for the TC420:

note: If your set 6:00 @ 0% to 6:30 @ 100%, it will keep 0% from 6:00-6:29, then fade 0%-100% at the last min 6:29-6:30, or jump to 100% at 6:30 directly options.

* Brightness changing effect can be "Jump" and "Fade" between each two time points.

For the TC421: 

note: If your set 6:00 @ 0% to 6:30 @ 100%, it will fade 0% to 100% in 30min.


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## MichaelBrock (May 31, 2011)

I ended up getting the TC420 and can verify that it does provide for "ramping" between set times. As far as I can tell it is identical to the TC241 without the wifi. 

I have the lights completely off from 24:00 to 08:00 then at 5% until 13:00, then ramp up to 100% by 15:00. 100% until 21:00 then ramp down to 5% at 23:00. 5% is working well, it's actually bright enough that I'm wondering if it is bright enough for algae issues! Definitely bright enough to appreciate the fish.


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## zokc (Jan 21, 2021)

jeffkrol said:


> not in the way you may be thinking.. but like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Hello I am new here 


I also have a problem with the TC420 controller.
I would like to control the positive side and not the negative, I saw in the clip that you added an external mosfet.
can you tell what version of mosfet you used?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

zokc said:


> Hello I am new here
> 
> 
> I also have a problem with the TC420 controller.
> ...


Well in all fairness the idea was mostly mine but others did the real work.
The exact PNP Mosfet used slips my mind atm.
ECG 2372 looks like the one in the vid.





One thing though, and not addressed in prev setups but they still worked.
Best practice is a 150Ohm series resistor on the gate and a 10k Ohm resistor between gate and source.
As long as to are feeding the gate 10v or more no need for a "logic level" PNP MOSFET

Wat "you" need will depend on the voltage and current you want to put through it.
I'm not really an expert in matching specs w/ systems though.


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