# a good substrate layer setup..



## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

First get rid of the UGF. 
Second 5 mm gravel is much too big.
Third layering the substrate in a planted tank is IMHO a waste of time as it will all get mixed up sooner or later.
Fourth three inches of substrate is enough.

Now. Decide which substrate you want to use. You can go with Flourite, which will take four bags, or a mix of Flourite and coarse sand in a 50/50 mix based on depth, which will take 2 bags of Flourite and around 50 lbs of sand. You can use Eco-Complete which will take 5 bags, I don't recommend mixing the Eco-Complete with anything else. Or if money is a problem you can buy a large box of laterite at the LFS, get a bag of coarse sand at the BORG or other sources and use that.

Now that being said you do want to put a small amount of peat moss under any of these substrates. If you go the laterite way you would put the laterite on the peat moss and then add the sand.

Doing a complete tear down on the tank is your best option.

Also just to keep ahead of the game what are you using for lighting?

Take a few minutes and read my Guide. It will really help you out.


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## ThomE (Aug 26, 2004)

*peat moss*

I know you prob answered this question 20 times, but can we make it 21x. How light is light on the peat moss? About 1-2mm. ?


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## Raul-7 (Oct 17, 2003)

Use one handful.


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## Gemleggat (Oct 10, 2004)

i wouldnt bother with peat moss i complicates things and lowers PH, you only use co2 to alter PH, not organics or chemicals (i know CO2 is Organic) i agree that Flourite mixed with sand will be a good option. Peat Moss is so Yesterday!


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## Ibn (Nov 19, 2003)

It's been around for awhile now, but I prefer to set up my tanks in such a fashion...


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

For bigger tanks, to save some cash, I like to use a finer substrate on the bottom, and a coarser on the top. Layering stays that way, vs when you use sand on top of something coarser.
Pea gravel on top: for the natural look, and fishpoop to fall into the cracks. Something with a high CEC on the bottom, like profile or that other stuff I won't mention anymore. Mix in some laterite or loam if desired, not really necessary though.
Anyway... that's what I do. Not good for glosso or hair grass, but works well with the other 99% of aquatic plants.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

The small amount of peat moss used at the bottom of a planted tank has virtually no effect on the water chemistry. It's there to help kick start the substrates. It provides early organic matter for the plants.  It's not really "so yesterday" as Tom Barr, who is without a doubt one of the most knowledgeable people that I know of when it comes to planted tanks, always recommends using it.


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## baowow (Oct 15, 2004)

thanks for all your help folks...this the best forum i seen...i appreciated for all your help..another question. i will order 2 bags of flourite and 2 bag of onyx from www.drsfostersmith.com soon to put in my 55gallons tank. 

i was wondering if its a good idea not to take down and restart the tank, but instead change my old substrate by 1/4 of the tank at a time . what i mean is change a small section at a time while the filter is running..would this kill the fishs? any experience with this folks?
how long do you think i should wait to change another section of the tank? 


thanks


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## Raul-7 (Oct 17, 2003)

Wasserpest, isn't loam by definition a mixture of sand, clay(laterite), and topsoil? Where can you find it ready-mixed?


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Loam is a mixture of sand, silt and clay. You can find it pre-mixed outside your house (probably). I drive to the mountains to find spots where loam is exposed by erosion, and where I am sure no pesticides have been applied to it. I looked for the reddest loam I could find, for no particular reason. 

I don't recommend loam though because if you have to pull out a larger plant and don't have a diatom filter ready you're looking at a foggy aquascape for a while.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

You can change out 1/4 of the substrate at a time but can you remove the UGF 1/4 at a time?


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## baowow (Oct 15, 2004)

sup rex,thanks for replying.
i think i can remove it one section at a time. but do you know how long i should wait after every section i change rex? so it wont cause ph level.....


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

Changing out the substrate should not cause pH problems.


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## Dwarfpufferfish (May 29, 2004)

Onyx has a slight buffering capacity so you may find a "SLIGHT" change in your Ph. But I think the best way to go about this change is to just start over. I am assuming you have had your canister filter running for a while now and that should have enough nitrifying bacteria in it to handle the load of fish you have after the switch.

Take a few hours and do it all in one shot. It will work out better for you!


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