# How many PSI of co2 to you run into your tank?



## GDominy (Jul 30, 2002)

The paintball gun tank has been brought up many times here.. it uses a different fitting then tanks do so you need an adaptor or an extra hose.. SOmething to convert the connection. You would be better off getting a regular 5-10lb tank.

Secondly, most of us are measuring what the bubble rate is using a bubble counter.. I've never even checked the PSI


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## all4funwfish (Jan 18, 2004)

Unfortunately, the guy at the welding shop doesnt care what my bubble count is, and he has the regulators. As for the different fitting....the welding shop also has regulators that will fit the paintball tanks, the only problem is the valve type, not fitting type.....and now they make paintball tanks with a 90 degree manual open/close. Regardless, I will still use the standard 5 lb just for sheer capacity. Unfortunately in order to get my regulator to read acurately at low pressure, I need to buy a different gauge...and that requires knowing what PSI I plan to run.... i currently intend on getting a gauge for an acetalyne torch, which reads up to 30 PSI, since no one knows how much PSI they run (...?!....) maybe the question should be rephrased as what does your gauge read to, or in what increments?


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## Bonsai_Swamp (Sep 11, 2004)

all4funwfish said:


> First, how much PSI are you running into your tank.


What GDominy said.

Output p.s.i. is almost irrelevent in this application, since it takes less than 1 p.s.i. to pump gas to the bottom of a 25 gallon tank, and these crude regulators won't control a fine flow accurately enough for planted tank work on their own. Depending on what the needle valve (which actually controls the flow) works best at the output can range between 0+ and 30 p.s.i. 

This article explains the pieces:

http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/aqua/diy_co2rig.htm



all4funwfish said:


> Secondly, did everyone buy a kit or are any of you running a DIY pressurized system?


I've built one multi-tank system. I'm thinking about putting a second system into a small office tank to replace the yeast bottle currently in use. I will probably buy the regulator/counter/needle valve unit ready made from one of the sponsors of these boards. It's hard to find all the bits and pieces to put together one from scratch at a competitive price these days. 

The cylinder is a different matter. Shipping is expensive enough you're probably better off getting one locally. Check with whomever will be supplying your fills - extinguisher, welding, beverage, or paintball shop. They might know of a good deal on a used 5 lb. Be aware though that the cylinders must be tested every five years, so if the cylinder is "out of hydro" you will need to add another $15-$25 to the cost. Again, your filler can advise you. 



all4funwfish said:


> I am currently looking into building my own CO2 system using either a 5 lb bottle from a welding syupply store, or a 20 oz bottle from a paintball gun. This would keep cost at a minimum. Any thoughts please.


5 lb. cylinder with a CGA-320 valve - the standard CO2 connection used by everyone except the paintball world. 

If you're going DIY to save money, price everything very carefully before you open your wallet. A $3 needle valve at Home Depot might do the job but require another $11 worth of tubing and miscellaneous fittings to connect between the regulator and reactor. If it keeps overdosing your tank randomly and you have to replace it with a Clippard valve at $45 after the ridiculous shipping charges are added....

Sometimes it's cheaper to lay down the cash up front. But if you really, really enjoy the fiddling, it's cheap entertainment.


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## Bonsai_Swamp (Sep 11, 2004)

all4funwfish said:


> I need to buy a different gauge...and that requires knowing what PSI I plan to run.... i currently intend on getting a gauge for an acetalyne torch, which reads up to 30 PSI, since no one knows how much PSI they run (...?!....) maybe the question should be rephrased as what does your gauge read to, or in what increments?


Ah, that defines the problem a bit better. 30 p.s.i. max will work, but gives you no room for error with your regulator adjustments. A CO2 regulator can easily produce more than 30 p.s.i. and damage a small gauge like that. Stock CO2 output gauges on welding and beverage equipment are 60 p.s.i. max, and I've seen quite a few running max 100 - 140 p.s.i. in 5 to 10 p.s.i. increments.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

You are much better off getting one of the all-in-one units from a sponsor of this site. Buy the time you buy a regulator and needle valve and the necessary fitting to put it all together you will more than likely have spent more than the all-in-one unit will cost you.


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## malkore (Nov 3, 2003)

amen Rex! I love my Milwaukee all in one unit. $59.99 at www.aquariumplants.com - regulator, solenoid, needle valve and bubble counter. Just add a CO2 cylinder and a diffuser/reactor.

to answer your PSI question, I'm pushing 15-20PSI from the regulator to the needle valve...but I have no idea what the pressure is coming off the needle valve, since that's how you truely control your flow rate. I couldn't even guess the PSI coming off the needle valve.


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## Laith (Jul 7, 2004)

I've set the output from my CO2 tank to the needle valve to about 1.2 bar, which converts to about 17-18 PSI.


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