# Needle valve for beginner



## Aqua99 (Jan 6, 2017)

Camozzi RFU-482. Presently under $4 shipped on eBay. Best "budget" needle valve I've tried so far. Good low flow for even my nano and no floating or strange finicky-ness.

Don't let the price fool you... You can pay $30-40 for it through some U.K. sites where it's more popular.


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I can't help with those needle valves but might throw in my advise on the choice. You will find there are many choices and getting the right one on a budget do is tough. Very easy to under buy and then have to rebuy which is a certain way to lose money. 
The needle valve is where I put my money when I want good operation. Things that make a big difference can sometimes be seen by a simple look. 
First we want one that lets us make very tiny adjustments to the flow. This requires a nice long needle with lots of tiny threads, so that a little turn of the knob gives a very tiny change. This often just goes out the window when the needle valve is short and stubby? Can't put a long needle in a short valve. 
Second major point that can blow the deal for cheap valves is that we absolutely have to have one that stays where we set it. Nothing takes the fun out like working for half a day to get the setting just right and then find it off after a couple days! The knob has to have a fair amount of "drag" built in to hold. What can happen on cheap is that there is some movement caused as the gas kicks on and off and it seems like it can make the cheap ones move a bit. 
The Swagloc are good but I would want to do some checking on the specs of that particular one. Some are not so good for our use.


----------



## Axelrodi202 (Jul 29, 2008)

@PlantedRich is absolutely right. A cheap needle valve can easily kill your fish or cause algae issues with fluctuating CO2, just costing you some headache and more money in the long run.


----------



## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

So, what's the budget, most you're willing to spend?


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

PlantedRich said:


> I can't help with those needle valves but might throw in my advise on the choice. You will find there are many choices and getting the right one on a budget do is tough. Very easy to under buy and then have to rebuy which is a certain way to lose money.
> The needle valve is where I put my money when I want good operation. Things that make a big difference can sometimes be seen by a simple look.
> First we want one that lets us make very tiny adjustments to the flow. This requires a nice long needle with lots of tiny threads, so that a little turn of the knob gives a very tiny change. This often just goes out the window when the needle valve is short and stubby? Can't put a long needle in a short valve.
> Second major point that can blow the deal for cheap valves is that we absolutely have to have one that stays where we set it. Nothing takes the fun out like working for half a day to get the setting just right and then find it off after a couple days! The knob has to have a fair amount of "drag" built in to hold. What can happen on cheap is that there is some movement caused as the gas kicks on and off and it seems like it can make the cheap ones move a bit.
> The Swagloc are good but I would want to do some checking on the specs of that particular one. Some are not so good for our use.





Axelrodi202 said:


> @*PlantedRich* is absolutely right. A cheap needle valve can easily kill your fish or cause algae issues with fluctuating CO2, just costing you some headache and more money in the long run.





Nlewis said:


> So, what's the budget, most you're willing to spend?





Funken_A said:


> dakota is a screaming deal at $90
> 
> very nice valve with very nice adjustment range.
> 
> ...


I really appreciate that you took your time and replied. I agree with al of you that cheaper will make it more expensive. I already spend money for a stupid ball valve, its connections ending up with an inconsistent bubble count (like a lot of people mentioned here in forum)

I am fine to spend $50 +/- a little more to have nice timer controlled and non changed valve. I know trying average products will end up again with loss.

So, I have a paintball tank connected with an adapter (amazon) to a CGA-320 double gauge regulator (shown in the picture above). The connections are 1/4 (I got them from home depot)from the regulator it goes to the solenoid Female /female. So it looks like I need a male 1/4 valve with an ending compatible to connect the tubing (just ordered the AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing). 
If you can help me to chose the valve please can you also inform me about the connections?

Do you think the setting that I have is OK? (checked and did not see any leak so far)

There are so many valves and connections and it really confuses me.

Thanks again

Bump:


Funken_A said:


> dakota is a screaming deal at $90
> 
> very nice valve with very nice adjustment range.
> 
> ...


I only saw these on the forum. Looks like the SMC AS1000 M5 (dont know detailed differences) but what do I have to use as connections? How can I connect that to the solenoid which has a huge 1/4 ending.

Thanks

Hi again,

I just wanted to attach the latest setting that I have (picture below). Do you think with all the connections I got from home depot and a good valve I can make it work smoothly?


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Busybeeerc said:


> I really appreciate that you took your time and replied. I agree with al of you that cheaper will make it more expensive. I already spend money for a stupid ball valve, its connections ending up with an inconsistent bubble count (like a lot of people mentioned here in forum)
> 
> I am fine to spend $50 +/- a little more to have nice timer controlled and non changed valve. I know trying average products will end up again with loss.
> 
> ...


Easiest way is just to hook the needle valve in-line on hose.. So 2 m5/ hose barbs and a 1/4npt /hose barb..
There are a lot of much more complicated ways to do this but that would be the easiest..
https://www.amazon.com/10Pcs-Male-Thread-Pneumatic-Fittings/dp/B00P3FSXUG
like the above for the SMC.. Those are the wrong size. Depends on the tubing you will use.. Most use 1/4od (outside diameter, or 3/16) 1/8 i.d.
Found these to work fine. One on each end of the SMC:


> 5mm Pneumatic Tube to M5 Male Thread Hose Mini Barb Fittings


then this on the solenoid..
*



Brass Hose Fitting, Adapter, 1/8" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Pipe USA

Click to expand...

*all on eek bay, may be able to get some locally. The 5mm M5 is a bit harder to find "locally"..


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Thanks a lot. This connection info will help a lot if I get something like that.

What about a used ******-Swagelok 21RS4 Metering Valve 316 Stainless steel? Are they too sensitive to stay away from used ones? 

Thanks


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Busybeeerc said:


> Thanks a lot. This connection info will help a lot if I get something like that.
> 
> What about a used ******-Swagelok 21RS4 Metering Valve 316 Stainless steel? Are they too sensitive to stay away from used ones?
> 
> Thanks


for beginners the tube size/fittings get to be daunting...Don't go for anything that has VMC in it.. 
Oh, and don't believe it.. 




> Missing their 1/4" compression fittings
> (available anywhere)


not familiar w/ their numbering system but believe that one is too "coarse"...CV 0.37..


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

My apologies! What is VMC? :smile2:

Is it something related to the ''******-Swagelok 21RS4 Metering Valve 316 Stainless steel'' I asked?

I have a deal for $30 for a used 21RS4.

Thansk


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Bettatail said:


> *Swagelok 21/22 series metering valve*, Part number: *-21???-*, *-22???-*,
> These are the mystery discontinued swagelok precision low flow control valve, and thanks to *kevmo911*, who shine the light on the 21/22 series and present the .pdf data.
> Orifice: 0.02"
> Cv: 0.007 (at 8 turn full open)
> ...



I have a ss21rs4 you will need swagelok 1/4 compression to NPT adapters, compression furrells and nuts to compete the connection. If you need help with part#s let me know.


----------



## Aqua99 (Jan 6, 2017)

Busybeeerc said:


> My apologies! What is VMC? :smile2:
> 
> Is it something related to the ''******-Swagelok 21RS4 Metering Valve 316 Stainless steel'' I asked?
> 
> ...


eBay has the brass B-21RS4 (new) for $45 shipped. It's my personal favorite and most likely retailed for 3x that. I contemplate picking up more each day... buy it before I do. Lol

Edit: If you want you can use the little stiffener/insert piece that goes inside your tubing and have your tubing go right into the valve output. I'll try to grab a part number and pic if you're interested. I think I grabbed it off eBay for $3. @jeffkrol brings up a good point about placing the valve inline (of the tubing) if you want to limit the special connections/adapters needed.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Great!

SS-21RS4 and B-21RS4: Any difference except being stainless steel or brass?

I have 2 options a used SS-21RS4 for $35 missing 1/4" compression fittings and the B-21RS4 (new) that Aqua99 recommended.

Are the fittings/adapters similar for both? Do I have to use the swagelok adapters or any adapters (like from home depot or other hardware store) are ok?

Thanks

I have an average/cheape solenoid with 1/4 fitting. Hope its ok to use it with the 21RS4. The connectors are from home depot.


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

SS21RS4 and B-21RS4 are the same Valve yes.. for our purposes Stainless steel is purely cosmetic..

It will be cheaper to install inline, all you will need are the plastic furrells and depending on what type of tubing you use also the insert mentioned above.. here is a pic of the furrells


----------



## Aqua99 (Jan 6, 2017)

Busybeeerc said:


> Great!
> 
> SS-21RS4 and B-21RS4: Any difference except being stainless steel or brass?
> 
> ...


Personally, I'd go for new... unless you have a reason for SS. The connectors they use are specific to swagelok (and similar). They won't mix with the stuff at Depot. You can order a fitting that is 1/4" threaded for your selonoid and 1/4" tube that will fit into the 21rs which will tie the two together nicely. Actually, I might even have an adapter or two in my box at work I can send you (just cover postage) if you have trouble finding them.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> I have a ss21rs4 you will need swagelok 1/4 compression to NPT adapters, compression furrells and nuts to compete the connection. If you need help with part#s let me know.





Aqua99 said:


> eBay has the brass B-21RS4 (new) for $45 shipped. It's my personal favorite and most likely retailed for 3x that. I contemplate picking up more each day... buy it before I do. Lol
> 
> Edit: If you want you can use the little stiffener/insert piece that goes inside your tubing and have your tubing go right into the valve output. I'll try to grab a part number and pic if you're interested. I think I grabbed it off eBay for $3. @jeffkrol brings up a good point about placing the valve inline (of the tubing) if you want to limit the special connections/adapters needed.


Thanks a lot. Since my regulator is stainless steel (or silver) I will try the ss21RS4 (30 days money back guarantee).

I really need to know which exact fittings I will need. I liked the parts from Rhenerie and will ask him.

Thanks again

Bump:


Rhenerie said:


> I have a ss21rs4 you will need swagelok 1/4 compression to NPT adapters, compression furrells and nuts to compete the connection. If you need help with part#s let me know.


Hi Rhenerie

As in the figure i will keep the solenoid connected to the regulator. I will remove the ball valve (please dont laugh ) and will put the SS-21RS4 (as in the picture its without compression fittings)

Now I need the adapter from solenoid to 21rs4 (solenoid is F to F 1/4 and there is a m to m adapter now)

Finally I think I need an adaptor that goes out from 21rs4 to the tubing. What part # would I need?

Thanks


----------



## Aqua99 (Jan 6, 2017)

Part No. SS-4-TA-1-4

Will get you from 1/4" female (from your selonoid) to 1/4" tube for your valve.


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Swagelok Ferrule set x2: SS-400-SET
Swagelok 1/4 tube Nut x2: SS-402-1
Or set of both but and fulerrule x2: SS-400-NFSET

That will replace the missing parts for that valve returning it to it's original configuration. Next you need to connect it to your solenoid..

To do this I would recommend removing the male nipple and inserting the tube adapter directly into your solenoid. Swagelok SS-4-TA-1-4 will go from solenoid to needle valve

Then you need to go to tubing or check valve.. let me know if you are going to hard mount a check valve or bubble counter or go to an inline bubble counter and check valve..

Bump: Swagelok: T-400-SET Is the part number for a PTFE(teflon) Ferrule set if you want to go directly to tubing you can forgo the second stainless Ferrule set and get one... Or a few PTFE ferrules. And if you are using soft tubing like airline tubing or Tygon lab grade you will need tubing support inorder to actually form a seal on the tubing..Swagelok: SS-405-2


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Also, any Swagelok part number you can replace the SS with B(Brass) or T(PTFE-Teflon)


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Part No. Availability Unit Price Qty. Ext. Price 

SS-402-1 x3
SS-4-TA-1-4 x1
SS-400-SET x 2
T-400-SET x2
SS-405-2 x2

My configuration will be:

Regulator >> solenoid >> SS-4-TA-1-4 >> renewed valve wit (SS-400-SET + SS-402-1) >> ??? adapter for tubing >> AQUATEK CO2-Proof Tubing >> Simple amazon check valeves >> Fluval bubble counter >> Fluval difuserdifuser.

I thing the missing part is an adapter coming out from the valve for tubing. I didnt understand the use of ferrule very well! is that the part that will connect the tubing to the valve or is the ferrule a part to renew my valve.

I see people have metal glass bubble counter beside/connected (via 1/4 fitting) to the needle valves. Wher to find those?
Any suggestions for better check valves. There are some on amazon but have very bad reviews.

Too many questions but thanks a lot


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Hopefully pictures will help. Just imagine that the other end the nut screws onto is your needle valve.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> Swagelok Ferrule set x2: SS-400-SET
> Swagelok 1/4 tube Nut x2: SS-402-1
> Or set of both but and fulerrule x2: SS-400-NFSET
> 
> ...





Aqua99 said:


> Part No. SS-4-TA-1-4
> 
> Will get you from 1/4" female (from your selonoid) to 1/4" tube for your valve.





Rhenerie said:


> Hopefully pictures will help. Just imagine that the other end the nut screws onto is your needle valve.


Please correct if i am wrong (pictures are really good the little one also)

SS-405-2 will go in the tube and that will go into the nut that we will order (SS-402-1). Between the nut and my valve (fitting body according to the small image) will be the ferrule (SS-400-SET)

On the other side we will use only the SS-4-TA-1-4 (solenoid and valve adapter) with the second nut and the ferrule?

Hope I got everything. Then we will not need the T-400-SET or?

thanks


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Your assembly description is correct.. however on the tubing side I recommend replacing the Ferrule set ss-400 with T-400-SET. They are exactly the same ferrules, just the T-400 is made of plastic instead of steel.. either will work, however because any tubing you use (outside of metal) is going to be much softer then the SS Ferrule. What may end up happening is because you can't feel the Ferrule engage the tubing you could easily compress the Ferrule enough to sever the tubing between the Ferrule and the insert... 

If you use the plastic Ferrule you can actually tighten it enough with your fingers to form a seal. Then just a bit extra with a wrench and your good to go. On the side that's metal to metal, you must use a metal Ferrule (SS-400-set)

Bump: Also there is a very specific installation technique for Swagelok tube fittings (which is a good thing!!). You can Google swagelok field assembly guide... The short of it is this.. install ferrules into nut (in correct orientation). Screw nut and ferrules into needle valve. Screw finger tight (very snug with no tools). Slide tubing (adapter) into Nut/Ferrule assembly until it bottoms out.. mark a single point on the nut and the needle valve. To seal turn nut 1 & 1/4 turns or 450° (360°+90°).. the assembly is then complete.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> Your assembly description is correct.. however on the tubing side I recommend replacing the Ferrule set ss-400 with T-400-SET. They are exactly the same ferrules, just the T-400 is made of plastic instead of steel.. either will work, however because any tubing you use (outside of metal) is going to be much softer then the SS Ferrule. What may end up happening is because you can't feel the Ferrule engage the tubing you could easily compress the Ferrule enough to sever the tubing between the Ferrule and the insert...
> 
> If you use the plastic Ferrule you can actually tighten it enough with your fingers to form a seal. Then just a bit extra with a wrench and your good to go. On the side that's metal to metal, you must use a metal Ferrule (SS-400-set)


Great! I will order 2 set of each as backup (not expensive). Do you think I should go with the fluval bubble counter that I already have? And should I use teflon tape to seal everything between valve solenoid or its strong enough to prevent any leak.

I will put the order from swagelok. hope they have all the items and sell small numbers like 1-2 each.

Thanks again


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Teaser Pic


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> Teaser Pic


Really nice! will save the picture and asamble something like this later after this one is done.

Meanwhile Swagelok does not allow me to order. They asked company name and I just put ''personal ''
How can we order from this website?


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Busybeeerc said:


> Great! I will order 2 set of each as backup (not expensive). Do you think I should go with the fluval bubble counter that I already have? And should I use teflon tape to seal everything between valve solenoid or its strong enough to prevent any leak.
> 
> I will put the order from swagelok. hope they have all the items and sell small numbers like 1-2 each.
> 
> Thanks again


You can use Teflon tape for NPT threaded connections (pipe thread) I personally prefer a liquid sealant/lubricant (also called dope). For stainless steel you need to be more cautious as it can gaal. Loctite 567 is designed for high pressure SS pipe fittings... If you are comfortable with Teflon tape it will get the job done.. I just get to many leaks..

Teflon tape/sealant should never be used on swagelok "Tube" fittings.
They require no additional treatment. It is a metal to metal seal. PTFE/Teflon tape is only for tapered pipe threads. 

Bump: You should be able to order from swagelok, maybe call them.

I have access to Swagelok parts through work, but typically I search "The Bay" auction site, first as it can typically be found cheaper.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> You can use Teflon tape for NPT threaded connections (pipe thread) I personally prefer a liquid sealant/lubricant (also called dope). For stainless steel you need to be more cautious as it can gaal. Loctite 567 is designed for high pressure SS pipe fittings... If you are comfortable with Teflon tape it will get the job done.. I just get to many leaks..
> 
> Teflon tape/sealant should never be used on swagelok "Tube" fittings.
> They require no additional treatment. It is a metal to metal seal. PTFE/Teflon tape is only for tapered pipe threads.
> ...



The website is asking for Order reference ??

And what would be the cheapest delivery ?

Thanks


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

You can use your Fluval bubble counter to, no reason not to. Just make sure you have a good quality check valve between your bubble counter and needle valve.

Bump: USPS Priority or UPS ground are typically the cheapest options... For reference you can put whatever you want. They aren't going to block a sale because your reference was "Fish tanks", "Rhenerie" or "dirt"


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> You can use your Fluval bubble counter to, no reason not to. Just make sure you have a good quality check valve between your bubble counter and needle valve.
> 
> Bump: USPS Priority or UPS ground are typically the cheapest options... For reference you can put whatever you want. They aren't going to block a sale because your reference was "Fish tanks", "Rhenerie" or "dirt"


Finally put the order with forgetting the apt# in the address  Will call them tomorrow to correct it. On the order the final price is not written. Hopefully they dont charge me a lot for the shipping 

RHENERIE! I really appreciate your patience and help for this fresh guy 

Will let you know once I put everything together. Have to learn a lot from you )


ANY SUGGESTION FOR A GOOD NOT EXPENSIVE CHECK VALVE ???


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Right now I am using this: PNEUMADYNE C050502 Check Valve. It is available in a couple configurations depending on your need. Depending where you purchase it it's a pretty good deal. I just bought 4 and with shipping they came out to around $7 shipped..


----------



## Nlewis (Dec 1, 2015)

Busybeeerc said:


> Great!
> 
> SS-21RS4 and B-21RS4: Any difference except being stainless steel or brass?
> 
> ...


I'd buy the brass one listed for $45. States the valve is new and still in a factory sealed bag.


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

For a reasonably priced and new needle valve, I find these suit my use very well at $23 US. Shipping will be something to check for your location.
These use the 10-32 fittings which I like as I do mount them to the side and they are smaller. 
https://store.fabco-air.com/proddetail.php?prod=NV-55

If you want to go with 1/8 inch fittings, this is the same valve but somewhat larger:
https://store.fabco-air.com/proddetail.php?prod=NV-55-18
Both have the same internal parts. 










Note that the mounting is a separate DIY and not part of the valve.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Thanks guys. Ordered the ss-21rs4 for $30. seller told me that it was used just for 1 hour for a prototype. If it doesnt work properly will send it back. Then I can switch to other options.

Thanks again for the great help. Will post how it looks and works.


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Sorry! Looked back and found you were much further down the road than just planning.


----------



## herns (May 6, 2008)

Rhenerie said:


> I have a ss21rs4 you will need swagelok 1/4 compression to NPT adapters, compression furrells and nuts to compete the connection. If you need help with part#s let me know.


Hey man,

I have a B-21RS24 laying around and Burkert solenoid collected during Bettatail era and wanted to build a back-up reg.

I just need help on your expertise here identifying each part and I numbered them for easy reference.
I place number as well on Neddle valve (#6) and Burkert Solenoid (#2).

Thanks a lot for the help!--herns


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

herns said:


> Hey man,
> 
> I have a B-21RS24 laying around and Burkert solenoid collected during Bettatail era and wanted to build a back-up reg.
> 
> ...




#1. Swagelok SS-400-8-2
#2. ****** (Swagelok) SS 21RS4
#3. Swagelok SS-400-8-4
#4. PNEUMADYNE C050502 Check Valve (this part I dont have attached to my reg. It will go to my bubble counter which will be remote mounted)
#5. Swagelok SS-4-TA-1-2 
#6. Burkert 0200A 110v AC 4watt Solenoid 1/8nptf
#7. PARKER 4-4 MHLN-SS 2.0

As I mentioned before, for all those Swagelok part#s just replace the SS with B for brass such as part#1 brass=B-400-8-2


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Hi Guys,

I got 2 times water close/inside or passing my check valves. Valve was below the water level.

This is the last setup (check valves above the water level). Two check valves between tank and bubble counter (one is behind the bubble counter still below the water label) and one check valve between counter and diffuser.

I will replace these valves ASA I find a good one. 

Please can you let me know if this setting can stop the back siphoning or is a good place to put the valves? Where exactly do you place them?
THANKS


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

@Busybeeerc water will always back up to your check valve.. For one very simple reason, pure Co2 is all that's between your check valve and water.. Co2 is water soluble, obviously that's the whole point of this thread right.. what that means is you are not experiencing a siphoning action.. what is actually happening is the Co2 in your lines is slowly being absorbed into the water, and there is nothing left to fill the space left behind except.... Water.. that is why it's very important to have a very good (or multiple) check valve. Given enough time and no check valve, water will creep all the way past your needle valve before finally being stopped by your solenoid (basically an electronic check valve).

So the only place you "need" a check valve is after your Needle Valve.. If you only use water in your bubble counter, an interesting thing I've done before was to put my bubble counter close enough to my tank, so that every night there was enough water creeping back to refill my bubble counter... This way my bubble counter was always 100% full, no evaporation. It does get a little scummy inside that way though.

Bump:

Bump:

Bump: If you want a cheaper alternative to the check valve I suggested earlier, that can be used inline. Check out 64046 from US plastics they work pretty well, better then most airline check valves and are very economical at $0.82 each.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> @Busybeeerc water will always back up to your check valve.. For one very simple reason, pure Co2 is all that's between your check valve and water.. Co2 is water soluble, obviously that's the whole point of this thread right.. what that means is you are not experiencing a siphoning action.. what is actually happening is the Co2 in your lines is slowly being absorbed into the water, and there is nothing left to fill the space left behind except.... Water.. that is why it's very important to have a very good (or multiple) check valve. Given enough time and no check valve, water will creep all the way past your needle valve before finally being stopped by your solenoid (basically an electronic check valve).
> 
> So the only place you "need" a check valve is after your Needle Valve.. If you only use water in your bubble counter, an interesting thing I've done before was to put my bubble counter close enough to my tank, so that every night there was enough water creeping back to refill my bubble counter... This way my bubble counter was always 100% full, no evaporation. It does get a little scummy inside that way though.
> 
> ...


US plastic website is asking $11 shipment. 
Found 4 for $8 on evilbay and placed the order. 

You mentioned PNEUMADYNE C050502 before. do you have it directly connected to the 21rs4 ? and then the tubing with the ss-405-02 from swagelok inside the check valve


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

No I am using the PNEUMADYNE C050502 check valve after my regulator. So leaving my needle valve is just Co2 tubing. Then Co2 tubing goes to another swagelok tube fitting/pipe fitting which is then screwed into that check valve. The check valve is then screwed into the base of a bubble counter, which I am still waiting on from China Post.

Bump: That check valve could be attached to the regulator post body/needle valve, but it would require another tube adapter plus an additional pipe-tube fitting.. for this particular needle valve layout I thought it was better to minimize clutter and weight on the regulator.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Finally set up the CO2 sytem today. Happy to have the ss-21rs4. Very sensitive. Once set works without changing until you stop it. Thanks a lot to Rheneri and all others who helped me for the setting.
The only down part in my system is that when I turn off and on the bubble count gets slower then the initial set. 

Maybe its my fault to start and set the system. 

I have a double gauge attached to the 24 oz paintball. First gauge shows 800 psi and the second is 40 psi (is not full open). Then I have the valve >> tubing (up to the aquarium) >> 1st check valve >> 2nd Check valve >> bubble counter >>check valve >> difuser

Hope can also fix the turn off/on issue

Just wanted to share my tank.

thanks


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Tank is looking pretty good. I'm glad to hear the needle valve worked out for you and your liking it.

Hopefully my long winded hypothesis to your PM helps. Give it some time and see if it stabilizes, also make sure you've done a good leak check. Leaks could send you chasing your tail.


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> Tank is looking pretty good. I'm glad to hear the needle valve worked out for you and your liking it.
> 
> Hopefully my long winded hypothesis to your PM helps. Give it some time and see if it stabilizes, also make sure you've done a good leak check. Leaks could send you chasing your tail.


I really appreciate your patience and help ) Everything looks great so far. 
Will do some little adjustments tomorrow (change the location of diffuser and increase the operating pressure to 50psi)

Thanks


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Hi everyone,

My Co2 system is running for 3-4 days. It looks fine. Fish and invertebrates looks comfortable. I just realized that some of my plants are getting yellow leaves after this CO2 injection. Maybe its a coincidence but they were fine for the last 1 month before the CO2. I changed my lights (now led) my gravel (eco complete) and started Flourish exel daily 1-1,5 month ago and saw the dramatic change in the plant growth. Thats the reason I started the CO2 sytem to maximize plant growth (according to my conditions)

I got disappointed yesterday when I saw the yellowish leaves which were not there 2-3 days before !

Today I checked some parameters (below) and post some pictures. Interestingly have some bubbling on the HC. Please let me know for any suggestion.

I tested everything with API test kits

Amonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: 10-20 ppm more close to 20 ppm
pH: regular API solution test kit. 7.6 ------ API High Range pH: 7.4
Phosphate: 2 ppm
KH: turned from blue to yellow after 3 drops (around 60 ppm
GH: turned from orange to green after 5 drops (around 90 ppm)
TDS: 315 was like this for the last 1-2 months (no major change happened)
Tank Temp almost always: 78 F
Lights 72 led (60white+12blue) + aqueons tank top Floramax (put them together side by side and cover the top) starts at 10 am and stops 6 am
CO2: starts 2 before light and stops 2 hours before lights turned off. 2-3 BPS
CO2 drop checker on the left (close to the diffuser becomes lime green and the other still blue)

I have Eco complete (Petco) as gravel
Flourish Excel everyday 1 ml to my 10G tank
2 aqueon_10 HOB are running almost 24 h
Airstone also running total 6 hours at different time


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Rhenerie said:


> #1. Swagelok SS-400-8-2
> #2. ****** (Swagelok) SS 21RS4
> #3. Swagelok SS-400-8-4
> #4. PNEUMADYNE C050502 Check Valve (this part I dont have attached to my reg. It will go to my bubble counter which will be remote mounted)
> ...


Just a question:

The solenoid (#6) is 1/8 NPT and you mentioned that the adapter fitting inside (#5) is SS-4-TA-1-4 which is a 1/4 NPT. is it possible that the code for #5 is different ?

Just curious because I want to change my cheap homedepot selonoid ($6, no ground connection and sometimes makes noise) with the Burkert type 6011

Thanks


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-4-TA-1-2

change the "4" to a "2"..if you need 1/8npt..
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-4-TA-1-2

silly numbering.. an "8" is 1/2npt..


----------



## Busybeeerc (Apr 3, 2017)

Hi Guys,

This will be my new set up with the new solenoid (will be Burkert type 6011).

The parts and design will be exactly as shown. May be a 45 degree elbow (part ?) after the solenoid to have needle valve parallel to ground.

Do you think that the parts I chose are correct and any suggestions for design ?

Thanks

Bump:


jeffkrol said:


> https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-4-TA-1-2
> 
> change the "4" to a "2"..if you need 1/8npt..
> https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-4-TA-1-2
> ...


Thanks for the quick post


----------



## Rhenerie (Jul 8, 2014)

Busybeeerc said:


> Just a question:
> 
> The solenoid (#6) is 1/8 NPT and you mentioned that the adapter fitting inside (#5) is SS-4-TA-1-4 which is a 1/4 NPT. is it possible that the code for #5 is different ?
> 
> ...


That was a typo, good catch. I edited that post for clarity.

Bump:


Busybeeerc said:


> Hi Guys,
> 
> This will be my new set up with the new solenoid (will be Burkert type 6011).
> 
> ...


I think that looks good.


----------



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

yea looks good, but don't forget the nut and ferrules for the metering valve and 1/4o.d. (1/8 i.d., common size) tube and hose barb for the outlet side of it 
I believe this will work for 1/8 i.d. hose
SS-2-HC-A-401 
https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/Product/Detail?part=SS-2-HC-A-401
plus nut and ferrules of course.
There are speed connectors available..


----------

