# Small Shrimp Rack project.



## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

I thought I had posted this but it was on Scape. This is a rack that I have been thinking about for a long time. These pictures are a few weeks old but I have been doing some work on the rack the last few days. I will try to post some more pictures. The containers range from 2 gallons to I think about 3 or 4. It will have one central filtration system with a chiller. Each level with have two T 5 standard output lights. The rack is a bakers rack and on wheels so it will be easy to move if I need to. This rack will be used to house species that require lower water temperatures and for species that I only have a few of so that I can keep an eye on them better. Feel free to comment.


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## leo1234 (Dec 2, 2009)

I likey!!! Where did you get those tanks??


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## metallicanick78 (Apr 26, 2011)

And lights?


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## DKShrimporium (Nov 23, 2004)

Very nice.

Make sure the boxes are polycarbonate - they most likely are if they are pet boxes. Other clear polymers will develop stress cracks from the bulkhead drilling, causing catastrophic failure eventually when the cracks shatter. 

Make sure all electrics are sourced to GFCI circuits.

Make sure your T5 bulb (lamp) ends are capped so you can't accidentally touch the metal end of the bulb with a wet hand or metal net handle, etc. If you can't find end caps, then wrap the metal with electrical tape, covering the exposed metal.

Might also want to think about making some wheel chucks for when you don't want the cart to move. Or maybe it has locking wheels - make sure the WHEELS are rated for the weight you intend.

Flexwatt bed heating (outside and underneath the boxes) is a good option for thin walled bins like these and keeps the internals less cluttered in a small box. You have to pair the flexwatt with a controller such as a reptitherm 500R.

And leak frogs or the like under the cart are your friend. :wink:

DK


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## Church (Sep 14, 2004)

Nice, but I want to see more pics! Lookin good, Zid.


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## GDP (Mar 12, 2011)

greenisgood said:


> Very nice.
> 
> Make sure the boxes are polycarbonate - they most likely are if they are pet boxes. Other clear polymers will develop stress cracks from the bulkhead drilling, causing catastrophic failure eventually when the cracks shatter.
> 
> ...


 
Interesting information. FYI that rack doesnt have wheels. I have the same kind/brand. But I would have never even though about that if I had one with wheels.

I also really like this setup. Something Ive been wanting to do as well.


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## BradH (May 15, 2008)

I want see some more pics as well.

Looks good so far.


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## reybie (Jun 7, 2007)

Pics of filtration system please.


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## deeda (Jun 28, 2005)

I'm loving the way it looks!! More info on products used and pics please.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

GDP said:


> Interesting information. FYI that rack doesnt have wheels. I have the same kind/brand. But I would have never even though about that if I had one with wheels.
> 
> I also really like this setup. Something Ive been wanting to do as well.


You can purchase wheels seperate and add them.They screw into the bottom of each leg.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

reybie said:


> Pics of filtration system please.


Filtration will be last.. When I have pics for that I will add them.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Thank you for the information. 




greenisgood said:


> Very nice.
> 
> Make sure the boxes are polycarbonate - they most likely are if they are pet boxes. Other clear polymers will develop stress cracks from the bulkhead drilling, causing catastrophic failure eventually when the cracks shatter.
> 
> ...


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

They tanks are Kreature Kingdom tanks or critter keepers.



leo1234 said:


> I likey!!! Where did you get those tanks??


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

metallicanick78 said:


> And lights?


The lights are coralife units single bulb. I used a wire holder to attach them to the bakers rack.


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## gordonrichards (Jun 20, 2009)

I used zip ties to hold the lights up on my racks :^)

Remember that the t5's put off a good deal of heat, even single fixtures.
I'd suggest a buffer between the lights and the metal stand. Make sure its heat resistance is good.
They can melt foam... meh.

Seems like they are touching, over 8 hours it could change the temperature of your tank by a couple degrees... with your chiller I'm thinking you're looking for stability, watch out!

Just my two cents.

-Gordon


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Thanks. The chiller is a 1/4 hp one. The controller is digital and set to 1 degree plus or minus of the set number. There are only two points where the fixture attaches to the rack. All material is metal so it should be fine.
I will have the rack up and running for at least a week before I add animals to it.



gordonrichards said:


> I used zip ties to hold the lights up on my racks :^)
> 
> Remember that the t5's put off a good deal of heat, even single fixtures.
> I'd suggest a buffer between the lights and the metal stand. Make sure its heat resistance is good.
> ...


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## sampster5000 (Oct 30, 2010)

Awesome! Looking good. Cant wait for more pictures and updates.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Updates to follow this weekend.


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## h4n (Jan 4, 2006)

Can't wait to see the update !!


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

h4n said:


> Can't wait to see the update !!


Yeah, I'm digging this.


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## A Hill (Jul 25, 2005)

Make sure to watch the shelves for bowing, milalic made a nice rack with custom tanks and these racks and had to add supports to it to keep it from bowing.

Neat rack though, the plastic critter keepers drive me crazy personally, but they are cheap!

-Andrew


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

The tanks are small and there is a plastic topper on each shelf. Should be fine. Tanks should hold just fine. Only concern is the hole that was drilled. Will see


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## A Hill (Jul 25, 2005)

Yeah, here is a link to his thread for reference. 

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/s...720-invertz-factory-rack-updated-10-12-a.html

-Andrew


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Yes I remember seeing that post. Mine is different in a lot of ways. Plastic vs. glass tanks. Looks like those are 4 ft. Mine are 3ft. His tanks look to be about 15 gallons mine 3 or 4 at most.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

I didnt get as much as I wanted to done this weekend. Still have some planning to do on the filter system. Hopefully this container works out. If not I have a back up acrylic sump I can use. I will have a Mag 9 pump running the rack. This will run the return lines, Chiller, and interal filter system. Any questions just post them.


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## AlisaR (Dec 7, 2011)

This is just too cool. Can't wait to see it up and running when you're all done.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

This is a very nicely set up rack. I have friends who have some discus racks set up similarly and they are on 100% fresh water drips, no filters. Set up like your overflow/inputs it works handy. You can tune each tank to a rate you want. Same idea the big breeders use in their concrete breeding lagoons. NOt that this is what your doing, just reminded me of them... 

Excited to see what you fill it up with!


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

I have a large RO unit that I am going to connect to it so I can have it do automatic water changes everyday or so.


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Very excellent! 

I love the "technology" of tanks and multi system tanks set up like this get me all geeky. I love to look at them. Yours is done very well and clean. I like it.


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## jone (Nov 27, 2011)

very nice rack system..did you consider your water return line placement ,do you think it is a little close to the overflow....also what is the clear plastic gizmo right after the inline heater...just curious..


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

It's not going to really matter. I still have 90 degree elbows to put on the returns to make the flow go down the side of the tank. With the small size if the tanks I am limited on where to place them.



jone said:


> very nice rack system..did you consider your water return line placement ,do you think it is a little close to the overflow....just curious..


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## OverStocked (May 26, 2007)

Placement won't matter. It'll work fine for such small tanks.


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## CPD (Feb 7, 2012)

This is incredible! Ideas, ideas


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## Drewsplantednutz (Jan 25, 2012)

Awesome set up man. So will the return lines run down to the bigger pvc at the bottom and then flow down to the res.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

The drain lines will run into the larger tube at the bottom and then into the sump. The PVC with the spigots on them are the return line and those will pump out water into each tank. Pretty simple set up really.



Drewsplantednutz said:


> Awesome set up man. So will the return lines run down to the bigger pvc at the bottom and then flow down to the res.


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## Alyssa (Sep 16, 2011)

This is SO cool! Puts my little mini shrimp rack to shame!


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## ElBoltonero (Jan 18, 2012)

I love this design, it's beautiful...just so I understand the plumbing correctly...

Water will be taken out of the tank by covered bulkheads near the top of the water. From there it will go into the reservoir at the bottom. It will be returned back up via a pump, and on the way it will be filtered and heated/chilled. Flow rate will be controlled not by the maximum output of the pump but instead by nozzles at the ends of the return lines. Hence the entire return system will be pressurized to a degree. 

If my understanding is indeed correct, my only questions are...

How do you maintain pressure without killing the pump?
How to you make sure there's not too much pressure in the system?

I'm assuming the large pipe across the lower rack has something to do with this?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

You are almost correct. The filter system isnt done yet. inside the container there will be different filters. I still have to put another bulk head in the sump part to allow for a manifold for the other filters. I also need to plumb the sump drain and the auto fill unit from the RO. The manifold will run the chiller and a few other filters that need to have some force behind them. I am going to use a Mag 7 or 9 on this unit. having back pressure is not an issue for these pumps. The pump can only pump what it can and cannot burn itself out because of the back pressure. The larger tube at the back is for all the hoses that will be connected to the tanks for the water to drain back to the sump. The chiller is on another tank right now so once I get this thing running I will take the shrimp in the other tank and add them to this rack. Once I do that I can add the chiller. It will look like a plumbers nightmare before I am done but it should all work fine. I am just hoping that the tanks will be ok from drilling a hole in them and the sump holds up after putting holes in it. Fall back plan is to get acrylic tanks made and I already have an acrylic sump to swap out just wanted to see if this plastic tub would work. I like the fact that it has a lid.



ElBoltonero said:


> I love this design, it's beautiful...just so I understand the plumbing correctly...
> 
> Water will be taken out of the tank by covered bulkheads near the top of the water. From there it will go into the reservoir at the bottom. It will be returned back up via a pump, and on the way it will be filtered and heated/chilled. Flow rate will be controlled not by the maximum output of the pump but instead by nozzles at the ends of the return lines. Hence the entire return system will be pressurized to a degree.
> 
> ...


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## ElBoltonero (Jan 18, 2012)

Awesome, thanks. This plus an arduino-based LED lighting (and maybe water changing) system would be the ultimate shrimp DIY. One day...


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

Are you doing a water change in the sump? 
Does it not matter that your bulkheads a close to the top of each tank?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

New RO water will be added to the sump. There will be a drain in the sump so that when the water gets too high it will start draining out. That way I can do larger water changes by just keeping the RO unit turned on.

Bulkhead placement for me is based on where I want the water level. I could have placed them lower and then used PVC pipe to increase the water level. Remember the water is going to drain out of the tanks through the bulkheads.



dj2606 said:


> Are you doing a water change in the sump?
> Does it not matter that your bulkheads a close to the top of each tank?


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

What If I have a PVC "intake and output" rather than bulkheads? I don't feel comfortable drilling the glass aquariums and installing the bulkheads (they may leak or I may crack the glass while drilling). 

Do you think the intake and output with pvc and routing it just the same as yours would work just the same?


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## ElBoltonero (Jan 18, 2012)

You'd have a higher chance of something going wrong...losing syphon, etc.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

There would be no way I would ever set up a tank system the way you are describing it. Too many things could go wrong and you would end up with water all over the floor. Depending on on what size tanks you are going to get you could have holes drilled in them. Out here in CA I have three or four companies that make tanks that can drill holes in them when you order them. Cost $10 per hole but its worth it. I have a hole cutter and have done some myself. Its not that hard you just need to go slow.



dj2606 said:


> What If I have a PVC "intake and output" rather than bulkheads? I don't feel comfortable drilling the glass aquariums and installing the bulkheads (they may leak or I may crack the glass while drilling).
> 
> Do you think the intake and output with pvc and routing it just the same as yours would work just the same?


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## Jacob928 (Jan 29, 2012)

Nice rack bro


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Jacob928 said:


> Nice rack bro


Focus on his face, not his rack man...


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## manikmunky (Mar 24, 2011)

diwu13 said:


> Focus on his face, not his rack man...


He's the one taking pictures of his rack and posting them on the internet!


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## ftwchopper (Nov 12, 2011)

Any blockage of the Tank return screen and the tank will overflow and drain the sump...With constant water filling the sump,that could be quite a disaster.I use very course round sponge to cover all my standpipe screens.This also keeps baby fish or shrimp in the tank.....


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## Soothing Shrimp (Nov 9, 2011)

Any pics of it with all the hoses attached?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Not sure what you mean about constant water filling the sump. If you are talking about the filter running it will be fine. If you are talking about the water change it's only going to be on an hour or so.




ftwchopper said:


> Any blockage of the Tank return screen and the tank will overflow and drain the sump...With constant water filling the sump,that could be quite a disaster.I use very course round sponge to cover all my standpipe screens.This also keeps baby fish or shrimp in the tank.....


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

This weekend more pics



Soothing Shrimp said:


> Any pics of it with all the hoses attached?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

A few pictures to update. Hopefully I will be able to get the filter system done tomorrow and get water in it.


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## Soothing Shrimp (Nov 9, 2011)

VERY cool system! I'd love to see a parts list when you are all done!


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## Moe (Jan 22, 2004)

Very NICE! love it


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Probably not goin to happen. Time is short and that's wasted time for me.




Soothing Shrimp said:


> VERY cool system! I'd love to see a parts list when you are all done!


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## Soothing Shrimp (Nov 9, 2011)

Understandable. A pic is worth a zillion words anyway.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

I am happy to answer questions but to sit down and write out everything I used for this project just doesnt make sense for me.



Soothing Shrimp said:


> Understandable. A pic is worth a zillion words anyway.


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## alanzhao (Mar 1, 2007)

Any updates?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Updates this weekend. Had to fix some things and I was in FL last weekend.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

Have you put any shrimp in these yet? I'm curious how well the plastic on those critter cages holds up long term for view ability.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

They have had water in them for awhile but the system is not running. Ran into some issues non related to this and have not had time to work on it. I keep saying this weekend but other things come up.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

Can I ask, why use the plastic containers instead of something like 2.5 gallon glass aquariums?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

RandomMan said:


> Can I ask, why use the plastic containers instead of something like 2.5 gallon glass aquariums?


Simply cost...

Even using a 2.5 gallon tank would mean that I would either need to order the tanks with holes ( $10.00 per tank) cost added to each tank or drill the tanks myself. Either option was not going to work for me.

Depending on how it went I was thinking I could do same size in acrylic.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

Thanks. I'm thinking about doing something simliar (sans central filtration) and the 2.5 gallon glass tanks are just a little on the small size, and the 5 gallon glass tanks are just too large to fit where they need to go. I've found some of the Tom Clear Vue tanks, and the medium seems to be the perfect size.

The only thing holding me back is fear the plastic will quickly turn yellow or fog.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

RandomMan said:


> Thanks. I'm thinking about doing something simliar (sans central filtration) and the 2.5 gallon glass tanks are just a little on the small size, and the 5 gallon glass tanks are just too large to fit where they need to go. I've found some of the Tom Clear Vue tanks, and the medium seems to be the perfect size.
> 
> The only thing holding me back is fear the plastic will quickly turn yellow or fog.


They shouldn't. The only thing I am concerned about is cleaning them with a pad and getting scratches.


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## RandomMan (May 31, 2011)

That's what Nerites and Ottos are for. ;-)


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## mubender (Mar 16, 2009)

Nerites and ottos would not be viable for a tank that sized used primarily for a shrimp breedout tank, the bioload would defeat the purpose of the ease of use.


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

mubender said:


> Nerites and ottos would not be viable for a tank that sized used primarily for a shrimp breedout tank, the bioload would defeat the purpose of the ease of use.


The way this system is being put together bio load is irrelevant. It would be able to handle a large fish load no problem. Ottos and nerites are not what I want in the tanks anyway.


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## mubender (Mar 16, 2009)

Hey Zid make sure you update us when that setup is done im curious to see it in action. Maybe you said this already, but how are you doing water changes?....top offs or % changes?


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

This system is going to be hooked up to my RO unit. Automatic water changes. TDS meter in line to monitor TDS levels on the RO. I also have a ph controller that I will be hooking up to a Co2 system.


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## ejdog (Dec 29, 2011)

any update since April? Thanks!


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## ZID ZULANDER (Apr 15, 2008)

Sorry no updates. The entire thing was scrapped. I had to move and didnt have room for it. Maybe in a year when I am stable where I live I will start again.



ejdog said:


> any update since April? Thanks!


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## Blue Falcon (Nov 9, 2009)

oh man that sucks. Hope you get back into it


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