# The Ultimate DIY Aquarium LED Build



## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Part one






Part 2


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Sean it looks like a very cool build. I actually have no desire to go LED, but I love DIY builds.

Maybe when I see what you come up with I will change my mind!

How will it be controlled?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Greggz said:


> Sean it looks like a very cool build. I actually have no desire to go LED, but I love DIY builds.
> *
> Maybe when I see what you come up with I will change my mind!*
> 
> How will it be controlled?



I'm confidant this will be more capable than any off the shelf LED light for planted tanks on the market. 

It also makes off the shelf LED fixtures look affordable, coming in around $1,500 for all the components. 

As far as controlling it, I'm not much for bells and whistles. You plug it in, and it turns on. There is a dimmer on the fixture tho that will let me lower the light output.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Sean W. said:


> I'm confidant this will be more capable than any off the shelf LED light for planted tanks on the market.
> 
> It also makes off the shelf LED fixtures look affordable, coming in around $1,500 for all the components.


$1,500 for the components? Are you building this for an aquarium or a tanning bed??:grin2::grin2: 

Either way I think your fish are going to need sunglasses!:smile2:


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

$1500 and you're still twisting a pot to dim it?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

O2surplus said:


> $1500 and you're still twisting a pot to dim it?


I guess so?

Is there a more simple and elegant way to dim them?


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

$1500 ?

I'm seeing $100 driver, $200 heatsink kit, $300 in LED's.
Still got $900 to go!

$200 heatsink & $300 in LED's consider done.

Could add HurricaneX w/8x board and 8LDD 1000's from Steves for $130
Power Supply Meanwell SE-450-48 Amazon @ $67 shipped.
Upped your cost to about $700 but with complete control over all.


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## Kampo (Nov 3, 2015)

Sean W. said:


> I guess so?
> 
> Is there a more simple and elegant way to dim them?


haha o2 will set you up  

i'm looking at getting his setup for my build i'm planning.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> $1500 ?
> 
> I'm seeing $100 driver, $200 heatsink kit, $300 in LED's.
> Still got $900 to go!
> ...


Storm controller and add on 5V PWM to 10V PWM
board is $65.43 + $23


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

This build is only using one large driver with one control channel, and it's 0 - 10v analog to boot. This is 2009 tech, not 2016. I'd recommend that you reconsider the use of this type of driver, unless it can be used in constant voltage mode. If it can.....Pair it with enough LDD-H to get the job done & any modern 5v PWM controller to achieve something a little closer to "the ultimate led build".


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

O2surplus said:


> This build is only using one large driver with one control channel, and it's 0 - 10v analog to boot. This is 2009 tech, not 2016. I'd recommend that you reconsider the use of this type of driver, *unless it can be used in constant voltage mode. If it can.....Pair it with enough LDD-H to get the job done & any modern 5v PWM controller* to achieve something a little closer to "the ultimate led build".


Not sure what any of that means... :frown2:


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Sean W. said:


> As far as controlling it, I'm not much for bells and whistles. You plug it in, and it turns on. There is a dimmer on the fixture tho that will let me lower the light output.


It's interesting you say that. To me the Ultimate LED would be all about the bells an whistles.

Id' like to see a Wifi or Bluetooth connection to software that you could easily use to program every aspect of the lighting. Being able to control the intensity, color, ramp ups, ramp downs, etc. would be very useful to me.

Right now I use a convoluted mix of T5H0, LED's, variable power supplies, and a bunch of timers to provide a similar effect. It's actually kind of ridiculous. If I could replace it all with a system that provided a more elegant solution, to me that would be the "Ultimate".

That being said, still looking forward to following your build, and seeing what the heck you come up with. I also read your other LED thread, but I have to admit I was getting a bit dizzy trying to comprehend it all.:grin2::grin2:


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

Greggz said:


> It's interesting you say that. To me the Ultimate LED would be all about the bells an whistles.
> 
> Id' like to see a Wifi or Bluetooth connection to software that you could easily use to program every aspect of the lighting. Being able to control the intensity, color, ramp ups, ramp downs, etc. would be very useful to me.


That would be a bluefish or similar controller. Very nice


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

O2surplus said:


> unless it can be used in constant voltage mode. If it can.....Pair it with enough LDD-H to get the job done & any modern 5v PWM controller to achieve something a little closer to "the ultimate led build".


The driver has a fixed minimum of 152VDC, too much for LDD1000 drivers. 56 volts max I think.
Don't think could work to supply a network of drivers.

7 LDD1000 drivers would be needed to drive your LED's and an 8 up board to mount them on.

Modern controller could be Storm, StormX, HurricaneX, BlueSomething Mini, etc...
They include PWM(Pulse Width Modulation) 5v dimming.
PWM runs on duty cycle, % of on time vs. analog of just lowering the milliamps.
I would recommend only 12bit dimming(4096 steps) then lighting transitions are not noticeable or seem stepped.
10 bit seems to jump between transitions.
During PWM dimming no loss of spectrum occurs since it runs @ rated amps.

Seems we visited all of this in the beginning?


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## ichy (Apr 6, 2015)

Sean W. said:


> Not sure what any of that means... :frown2:


What it means in simple terms is that you are doing resistive dimming. You are turning a POT to increase resistance for dimming. It is very inefficient in today's terms. 

The better way to do it is to use a controller that can do Pulse Width Modulation(PWM).
With PWM the light is turned on and off very fast, the longer it stays on per cycle, the brighter the LED.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

flyfshrmn98 said:


> That would be a bluefish or similar controller. Very nice


With all due respect, I think you might be missing the point.

I could wire up an arduino, bluefish, or other controller, if I wanted to spend the time, match up the right lights, etc, etc. And maybe that is the best that is available today.

I'm talking about a no fuss, no muss, no DIY, one stop shopping solution. Out of the box, great quality light, all programming options, and I would be in. Tell me if I am wrong, but I don't think it exists today.


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

Greggz said:


> I'm talking about a no fuss, no muss, no DIY, one stop shopping solution. Out of the box, great quality light, all programming options, and I would be in. Tell me if I am wrong, but I don't think it exists today.


If you're in the market for a turn key solution, look no further than NanoBox Reef Nano Box Home These lights are built by hand, right here in the good old USA. They mostly sell to the Reefing crowd, but they also have a beautiful to behold freshwater planted led array called the "Flare". This array has four independent channels, featuring cool white, warm white/lime, true violet, and a royal blue/ cyan channel. All four channels are controlled with a fully integrated BlueFish Mini WiFi led controller, that's compatible with Android and iOS devices.

I can attest to the beauty of these led arrays, as I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225.:laugh2:

Bump:


Maryland Guppy said:


> The driver has a fixed minimum of 152VDC, too much for LDD1000 drivers. 56 volts max I think.
> Don't think could work to supply a network of drivers.




152VDC minimum :surprise: and an aquarium........ I hope the two never meet by accident. 48VDC max sounds down right tame by comparison.:grin2:


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

O2surplus said:


> If you're in the market for a turn key solution, look no further than NanoBox Reef Nano Box Home These lights are built by hand, right here in the good old USA. They mostly sell to the Reefing crowd, but they also have a beautiful to behold freshwater planted led array called the "Flare". This array has four independent channels, featuring cool white, warm white/lime, true violet, and a royal blue/ cyan channel. All four channels are controlled with a fully integrated BlueFish Mini WiFi led controller, that's compatible with Android and iOS devices.
> 
> I can attest to the beauty of these led arrays, as I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225.:laugh2:


This the tank that used to have all the Vero's???
You know "just" WW/cw.. 
Seems to have taken you a little while to embrace the "rainbow"..

Oddly enough I've kind of gone a bit in the opposite direction..ww/cw puck COB's.. for now. Miss my colors though..


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Kampo said:


> haha o2 will set you up
> 
> i'm looking at getting his setup for my build i'm planning.





jeffkrol said:


> Storm controller and add on 5V PWM to 10V PWM
> board is $65.43 + $23





O2surplus said:


> This build is only using one large driver with one control channel, and it's 0 - 10v analog to boot. This is 2009 tech, not 2016. I'd recommend that you reconsider the use of this type of driver, unless it can be used in constant voltage mode. If it can.....Pair it with enough LDD-H to get the job done & any modern 5v PWM controller to achieve something a little closer to "the ultimate led build".





Greggz said:


> It's interesting you say that. To me the Ultimate LED would be all about the bells an whistles.
> 
> Id' like to see a Wifi or Bluetooth connection to software that you could easily use to program every aspect of the lighting. Being able to control the intensity, color, ramp ups, ramp downs, etc. would be very useful to me.
> 
> ...





flyfshrmn98 said:


> That would be a bluefish or similar controller. Very nice





Maryland Guppy said:


> The driver has a fixed minimum of 152VDC, too much for LDD1000 drivers. 56 volts max I think.
> Don't think could work to supply a network of drivers.
> 
> 7 LDD1000 drivers would be needed to drive your LED's and an 8 up board to mount them on.
> ...





ichy said:


> What it means in simple terms is that you are doing resistive dimming. You are turning a POT to increase resistance for dimming. It is very inefficient in today's terms.
> 
> The better way to do it is to use a controller that can do Pulse Width Modulation(PWM).
> With PWM the light is turned on and off very fast, the longer it stays on per cycle, the brighter the LED.




I appreciate all the input from people who have done this before and have a lot more knowledge than I do building LED lights, I am sure there are more elegant solutions that are different from the way I'm doing it.

This is the first time I have ever made a light like this, The die has been cast for this fixture, for now. In the future I can update it with more bells and whistles.

For now, feedback on whether or not the way I am planning on doing it will work would be much appreciated. It might not be the best way, or the most elegant way, or the most flashy way, or even the safest way.... But, will it work?

Once I get it done maybe I will find that more features are desirable and I can upgrade it to have the different colors on different channels so I can adjust the color temperature of the light, and have a built in timer and this and that. That's for later tho.

Will it work the way I'm doing it?

-Sean


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

O2surplus said:


> If you're in the market for a turn key solution, look no further than NanoBox Reef Nano Box Home These lights are built by hand, right here in the good old USA. They mostly sell to the Reefing crowd, but they also have a beautiful to behold freshwater planted led array called the "Flare". This array has four independent channels, featuring cool white, warm white/lime, true violet, and a royal blue/ cyan channel. All four channels are controlled with a fully integrated BlueFish Mini WiFi led controller, that's compatible with Android and iOS devices.
> 
> I can attest to the beauty of these led arrays, as I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225.:laugh2:


I may stand corrected. At first glance, those look very interesting. Thanks for passing that on.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Sean W. said:


> Will it work the way I'm doing it?


Yes it will work. It will look as good as your heatsink when finished.

Many of us do not feel good about the higher voltages around your tank.
We just hoped that you would reconsider your driver choice I suppose.
Now that you have cleared up the "hope" part, carry on and make us another video!

How many watts is that solder iron/pen you lost an LED with?


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## wastewater (Apr 5, 2010)

Sean W. said:


> This is the first time I have ever made a light like this, The die has been cast for this fixture, for now. For now, feedback on whether or not the way I am planning on doing it will work would be much appreciated. It might not be the best way, or the most elegant way, or the most flashy way, or even the safest way.... But, will it work?-Sean


First builds are always a learning experience. When there is no right or wrong way, there is always better, easier, and less expensive. I'm sure every one who has replied to your thread learned something from their first builds, and then advanced from that starting point.

IMO, your design (and materials of choice) seem to be 'solid' and very workable... a lot of power/intensity that can be controlled by dimming (even if it's not the "latest & greatest" modern technology). By having your diodes mounted with screws into the T-slots of your heatsink, you can easily change out LEDs and tweak your spectrum in the future if not satisfied. 

I don't think your plants really care about all the 'bells and whistles' that you could incorporate into the light. Let us know how your project progresses (both short-term and long-term, along with the pros and cons) and *ULTIMATELY* whether or not your plants respond favorably to the photons they are receiving.

Maryland Guppy has a very good point about high voltage/amperage in regards to safety, especially around water.. food for thought.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Yes it will work. It will look as good as your heatsink when finished.
> 
> Many of us do not feel good about the higher voltages around your tank.
> We just hoped that you would reconsider your driver choice I suppose.
> ...






wastewater said:


> First builds are always a learning experience. When there is no right or wrong way, there is always better, easier, and less expensive. I'm sure every one who has replied to your thread learned something from their first builds, and then advanced from that starting point.
> 
> IMO, your design (and materials of choice) seem to be 'solid' and very workable... a lot of power/intensity that can be controlled by dimming (even if it's not the "latest & greatest" modern technology). By having your diodes mounted with screws into the T-slots of your heatsink, you can easily change out LEDs and tweak your spectrum in the future if not satisfied.
> 
> ...



Thank you for the feedback, I appreciate it. You guys were starting to make me question whether or not the way I was doing it would work or not. Its nice to know all this work wont be for not.

Part 3 is partially filmed, probably wont be until after Christmas before ill be able to finish filming and edit the video. I think I might do a test fire in part 3! I started wiring last night.

The soldering Iron I'm using is a 30W iron from harbor freight, I think they are $2.99?

I was using a 250W Soldering gun for the larger gauge wires when soldering the wires on the driver.

EDIT:

Oh! I did have 2 questions

#1 These LEDs are rated for 1 amp, but the driver is capable of 1050mAh, will 1050mAh Kill the diodes?
#2 Will a 1amp inline fuse before the LEDs protect them from receiving more than on amp? I guess im asking is if a 1amp fuse blows at exactly one amp?

Thanks!


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Sean W. said:


> Oh! I did have 2 questions
> 
> #1 These LEDs are rated for 1 amp, but the driver is capable of 1050mAh, will 1050mAh Kill the diodes?
> #2 Will a 1amp inline fuse before the LEDs protect them from receiving more than on amp? I guess im asking is if a 1amp fuse blows at exactly one amp?


Your driver is constant current it will maintain 1050mA at all times by adjusting its output voltage.
You will most likely blow a 1 amp fuse, you can order fractional fuses though.
I absolutely know 1.25 amp is available.

I believe all of your LED's can handle over 1000mA.
Check on their website to be sure of maximum current.

I still cringe a bit over the max voltage though.:grin2:


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

That current should be fine for a test. The diodes usually have a pulse capacity that is higher than the continuous current. You could test it at that, but I wouldn't run it there. The 1amp fast blow fuse should protect the diodes if you can run them at less current. They will blow at 1 amp. I use in line fuses when I am running LEDs in parallel in case of a mishap


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Your driver is constant current it will maintain 1050mA at all times by adjusting its output voltage.
> You will most likely blow a 1 amp fuse, you can order fractional fuses though.
> I absolutely know 1.25 amp is available.
> 
> ...



It's my understanding that my driver is constant voltage and I can vary the amperage with the pot?


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Forgot about your dimming feature.
Doubt that you have a pot with a stop on it though.
Still a constant current driver though, based on pot reference.

Digikey has 1.25 amp 313 style glass fuse slow-blo for like 1and change?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> It's my understanding that my driver is constant voltage and I can vary the amperage with the pot?


Err, no. The driver (constant current type) increases or decreases the voltage till the current set point is reached..

As to dimming the 2 possibilities are
1) yes the "pot" decreases the amp set point 
or 
2) The driver, when dimmed "pulses" the output at a rate corresponding to the dim %..
So effectively "decreasing Amps over time w/out decreasing amps".. 
Example..









Dimming w/ changing current is somewhat "frowned upon" as it changes color output some..

Since the Meanwell uses 2 wires to allow 3 types of dimming.. 0-10v, 10v PWM and "pot" or resistor..odds are internally the "output" is pulsed..
Generally those w/ amp dimming and pwm dimming use 2 circuits..
no guarantee and no way of knowing for sure w/out "scoping" the driver output.. Meters are useless as they generally "average" anyways.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

The diodes max amperage is 1000mah, so will the driver's constant output of 1050mah blow them?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> The diodes max amperage is 1000mah, so will the driver's constant output of 1050mah blow them?


Probably not... and if "dimmed" it, at the worst, becomes a pulsed 1050mA, which is less bother some than a constant 1050mA...
Depending on the thermal transfer properties it may shorten thier lifespan..

just a matter of internal heat..


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

From Meanwell Data Sheet 1050B

※ 3 in 1 dimming function (for B-Type) 
*Output constant current level can be adjusted by applying one of the three methodologies *between DIM+ and DIM-: 
0 ~ 10VDC, or 10V PWM signal or resistance. 
Direct connecting to LEDs is suggested. 
It is not suitable with additional drivers. 
to be used Dimming source current from power supply: 1 0 A(typ.)

This may be good news.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> From Meanwell Data Sheet 1050B
> 
> ※ 3 in 1 dimming function (for B-Type) 
> *Output constant current level can be adjusted by applying one of the three methodologies *between DIM+ and DIM-:
> ...


so the pot will vary the current?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

err....like I said earlier.. maybe but not likely..


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

making progress on the wiring!


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

*Problem*










*20 Minutes Later*

changed the ends from right angles to more hoops, and replaced an LED that had the solder pad come up. Still having issues tho

The lights that arent being lit up still work when tested with a multimeter. I don't understand how some aren't working while the others are when they're wired in series...


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## flyfshrmn98 (Oct 20, 2011)

Hopefully just a loose connection/bad solder joint somewhere or possibly backwards polarity


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Check for bridges to the heat sink.. Put multimeter on, say, plus probe on plus pad of the diode and neg on heat sink. Reverse w/ negative pad, Check them all.

https://reefledlights.com/trouble-shooting/
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...THo6yPAPg&sig2=xv3ugWpUuGlZ0hD5gX_YmQ&cad=rja

There may be a problem running soo many low V(f) reds in a row as well.. but first things first..


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Didn't you have a wallwart 12 volt supply?

Unplug your fixture and use the 12volt across 4 LED's in series.
Keep testing groups of 4 until you find it.

Have things gotten any better???
Polarity, solder pads blasted, bad diodes???

That looks like some fat wire for a 1 amp load?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Im at a complete loss... I have no idea why its doing this... Ive tried everything


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

And you are sure you are not "leaking" voltage to the heat sink??

How about de-solder from the first red and run a bypass up past the last red.. like to row 3
I know, it isn't "supposed" to matter..


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## ichy (Apr 6, 2015)

1. What color is the next set of LEDs that wont light?
2. Is your POT controlling/dimming the ones that do light?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

ichy said:


> 1. What color is the next set of LEDs that wont light?
> 2. Is your POT controlling/dimming the ones that do light?


The next color is red. But the 4 on the far right are after that in the series... So it skips like 20 LEDs then lights up those 4 white ones.

I think its dimming it, its hard to tell. I took the POT off to see what happened, same thing, just brighter

I added a jumper and skipped that red LED and the same thing is happeneing


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> I added a jumper and skipped that red LED and the same thing is happeneing


Jumper around ALL reds...
Just start from the first one and go to the next "row" w/ no reds.

You only have about 10 reds. build w/out them in other words.



Pretty sure the collective low V(f) of the reds is causing problems..


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> Jumper around ALL reds...
> Just start from the first one and go to the next "row" w/ no reds.
> 
> You only have about 10 reds. build w/out them in other words.
> ...


Ill give that a try, Itll have to wait till January tho, wont be able to get to it until then


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## joebob296 (Sep 30, 2016)

jeffkrol said:


> Pretty sure the collective low V(f) of the reds is causing problems..


Just curious why does the low V(f) cause a problem?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

joebob296 said:


> Just curious why does the low V(f) cause a problem?


No idea.. Seen "the effect" in small test strips
w/ 3w diodes..

This will verify it (barring any missed possibilities) if he bypasses the red row and all the rest light..


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> if he bypasses the red row and all the rest light..


Doesn't look like just a red row, white and red alternating, what a PITA.
Maybe can skip whole row if minimum voltage is all good.

I browsed trying to find a reason to not mix forward voltages.
Found no real explanation, it was just not a recommended practice.
Interested in knowing the real reason though.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> No idea.. Seen "the effect" in small test strips
> w/ 3w diodes..
> 
> This will verify it (barring any missed possibilities) if he bypasses the red row and all the rest light..





Maryland Guppy said:


> Doesn't look like just a red row, white and red alternating, what a PITA.
> Maybe can skip whole row if minimum voltage is all good.
> 
> I browsed trying to find a reason to not mix forward voltages.
> ...


:icon_frow I havent gotten around to it yet. I hate redoing something... Also wifey sauce made me put all my tools away for christmas... haha So now I gotta dig all of them back out to get back to work.


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## Cmeister (Jul 5, 2009)

Hi Sean, 

I sent you an important message, and I didn't hear back from you on our prior communication. I would ask you kindly reply.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> I browsed trying to find a reason to not mix forward voltages.
> Found no real explanation, it was just not a recommended practice.
> Interested in knowing the real reason though.


Doing custom spectrums for Reefbreeder fixtures and DsunY the "engineers' always freaked w/ too many reds/channel. always assumed it was just because most of their drivers had high low limit on them. So I assumed red wouldn't add up to a high enough cumulative V(f). As some small experiments w/ myself, I found it may be more complicate than that.
The 'experiment" was trying a few cyan and red mixed.. Red's would light but not the cyans using LDD drivers.
Only possible bad explanation is that the current limit was reached but the shared potential could never reach full conductance..so the "unlit" diodes conducted enough voltage to light the red but not themselves.. 
Need a real electrical guy to sort it out..
.


Sean W. said:


> :icon_frow I havent gotten around to it yet. I hate redoing something... Also wifey sauce made me put all my tools away for christmas... haha So now I gotta dig all of them back out to get back to work.


you are killing me..


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Took the Reds out of the series, Still having the same issue...

Im about to throw this whole thing out the window
:icon_sad:











for clarification, this is how its wired.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Didn't you have a wallwart 12 volt supply?
> 
> Unplug your fixture and use the 12volt across 4 LED's in series.
> Keep testing groups of 4 until you find it.


Did you try testing groups of 4 in series with 12vdc???


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Well.. that IS sad.......

Addendum:
The led's that are lit.. Do you have the dim way down because they should be crazy bright @1A. Photos don't really show that at all..


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Did you try testing groups of 4 in series with 12vdc???


Yea that is one way.. I've got a tester w/ a 12V ps and a meanwell LDD attached for this reason..


also he could detach the neg end and use it as a probe. At this voltage that is a bit risky but doable.. 
Just start from the long lit end and touch a pad say every 4 diodes..

He has a circuit (obviously) and besides my erroneous red thing, the only other possibility "I" can think of is leakage to the heat sink.. the heat sink now acting like a resistor..
The 4 on the end is a bit baffling but being close to the neg "input" might be a factor..

Never found if the Meanwell had a minimum cumulative V(f) where it didn't work (unlike some Chinese drivers) and spec sheets show it functioning fine at 10% "load"..
The amount of diodes working doesn't add up to the driver minimum.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> *Did you try testing groups of 4 in series with 12vdc???*


have not tried this yet.



jeffkrol said:


> Well.. that IS sad.......
> 
> Addendum:
> The led's that are lit.. Do you have the dim way down because *they should be crazy bright @1A*. Photos don't really show that at all..


 They are crazy bright



jeffkrol said:


> Yea that is one way.. I've got a tester w/ a 12V ps and a meanwell LDD attached for this reason..
> 
> 
> also he could detach the neg end and use it as a probe. At this voltage that is a bit risky but doable..
> ...


 Thats what doesnt make sense to me either. I obviously have a complete circuit because those 4 on the end are lighting up...


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

I'm betting that you'll find two LEDs shorted to the heat sink. The first short is on or near the last lighted "upstream" led. The current leaves the string here, travels through the heat sink, and then re- enters the led string at the second short that will be found just ahead of the last four LEDs in the series. That's the only possible explanation.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

odd thing is between post 35 (red diodes on) and the recofiguration, the short would now be a different diode, 2nd row is now 5 white led's shorter changing the initial "shorted to sink" diode.
Removing the reds and he lost some whites.. I certainly agree about the short (mentioned it 3 times, LOL)

Easy (safe) way to measure leakage voltage on the heat sink???


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> odd thing is between post 35 (red diodes on) and the recofiguration, the short would now be a different diode, 2nd row is now 5 white led's shorter changing the initial "shorted to sink" diode.
> Removing the reds and he lost some whites.. I certainly agree about the short (mentioned it 3 times, LOL)
> 
> *Easy (safe) way to measure leakage voltage on the heat sink???*


lick it?

I was fussing with the screws of the last LED on each side that was working. The 4 on the one side, I was fiddling with the last one and two more after it turned on, then turned back off as i messed with the screws.

Then I fiddled with the last white led on the other side and the whole fixture dimmed and turned off then that LED blew... Need to replace that LED and see what happens


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> lick it?
> 
> I was fussing with the screws of the last LED on each side that was working. The 4 on the one side, I was fiddling with the last one and two more after it turned on, then turned back off as i messed with the screws.
> 
> Then I fiddled with the last white led on the other side and the whole fixture dimmed and turned off then that LED blew... Need to replace that LED and see what happens


BE careful since some of the Meanwell drivers are tooo slow to compensate for a "hot" turn on

Best to shut off.. futtz, turn on ..
Never had this problem w/ the LDD's but know it is an issue w/ some of the AC/DC drivers..

If you have the driver on and then touch a diode the driver will be at "high" and will be too slow to ramp down thus sending max voltage through the string..


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> BE careful since some of the Meanwell drivers are tooo slow to compensate for a "hot" turn on
> 
> Best to shut off.. futtz, turn on ..
> Never had this problem w/ the LDD's but know it is an issue w/ some of the AC/DC drivers..
> ...


well something went pop on the fixture its self, I thought it was a diode, but I tested them all individally and they all still work, but now nothing is working. The driver is still putting out 305volts but nothing is lighting up.

Im this close to stripping the housing and throwing everything away and being done with the whole thing.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

AS a "story" to tell, the reason I made the 12v /LDD test power supply was my white channel on the 40b went out.
Tested every diode w/ a VOM. All glowed when touched. Even went from another star to star so as to check the wiring.
This channel had been running flawlessly for over a year.

Well long story short I couldn't find a bad diode anywhere, no shot to sink, and no broken/detached wiring.. yet didn't work. 
Swapped drivers to eliminate that..

Found nothing out of the ordinary yet just wouldn't light.

Using the test supply I fired up 3-4 diodes at a time.
Found a set of 3 where it would only dimly light.. Then found one that at 12v only dimly lit. Jumpered around it and off it went.
Full on for that channel

Point is VOM test wasn't good enough. Needed to put it under load to find it..


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> AS a "story" to tell, the reason I made the 12v /LDD test power supply was my white channel on the 40b went out.
> Tested every diode w/ a VOM. All glowed when touched. Even went from another star to star so as to check the wiring.
> This channel had been running flawlessly for over a year.
> 
> ...



I hate everything :angryfire

I'm so discouraged....


If I learned anything from Mythbusters, its that getting multiple rockets to fire at the same time is very difficult. The same seems true with one long string of LEDs...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

A few points that ,right or wrong, I would have done differently...
1) Use nylon screws
2) wire gauge between stars would be 20-22 gauge.
Voltage drop is minimal and you are only carrying 1A current..
Voltage Drop Calculator
3) solder a group and test, another group and test.. ect.. till at the end..

Now some of this became relevant after the fact..and strictly dealing w/ large strings..

On a personal note.. These setbacks would haunt me till I figured out the problem..


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

pull out the electronic debugger, a multimeter. Check voltage and ground, check the circuit.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

If O2 is correct than the LED's that are firing are less than minimum voltage from driver.
This could explain blowing out an LED.
If he is correct by testing in groups of 4 you will find the problems.
Need to not run that big driver until problems are resolved.

I noticed a PEZ dispenser on the work bench there.
Don't get wired on too much candy!

Please remember Mythbusters is entertainment.


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## joebob296 (Sep 30, 2016)

I finished my LED build about a month ago and I had the same issue as you do. A string would light up, there would be an off section, and then more LEDS would be on again. I had a short to the heatsink, so I re did it using smaller wire 20 gauge as jeffkrol stated above and everything worked fine.


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## BigMek (Dec 6, 2016)

To test for shorts, unplug the fixture and grab your multimeter. Stick one probe to the heatsink and set the meter on continuity - it's really helpful if you have a meter that will beep at 0 ohms - then touch the other probe to each one of your solder connections. If you get anything other than infinite ohms anywhere, you've either got a solder bridge between the LED and the star chip or your screws are touching something they shouldn't.

A question, did you put thermal paste on your star chips before you screwed them down?


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Well?
You are to far for me to come help or I would.

Any updates?
Testing?
Hangover?
PEZ?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Kinda fed up with this project right now. Im going to need to step away from it for a little while... :/


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Keep us posted, I can feel that success is right around the corner!


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Been 6 days now I am sure you have at least touched this light project?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Been 6 days now I am sure you have at least touched this light project?


Lol nope, haven't even looked at it.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Just had to ask.
Though of your light project last night, switched out my old LED build to a new one.
Old build was an 80 watt 6 channel, moved to a 168 watt 4 channel.

This was all part of an older tank renovation.
Softer water, in tank substrate change, increased ferts, and a lighting upgrade.
All in a new canopy too! Been staring @ it for 3 months sitting in the hallway.
D-Day was last night.


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## [email protected] (Dec 31, 2016)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Just had to ask.
> 
> Though of your light project last night, switched out my old LED build to a new one.
> 
> ...




Fantastic can you stick up some pics once your underway. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Hey Sean! Having an electronics background working on planes, I loved the troubleshooting and I really want to help you out on this. Feel like coming to Arizona this weekend LOL!

As others have said a multimeter and a beer would help you narrow down the short to ground issue that you most likely have. I just looked over your build video and you said you used a plastic o-ring on the screw head, is it an o-ring or a solid plastic washer? If it's a squishable o-ring, that could be part of the issue vs a hard plastic washer. So if you check each LED for a short to ground (the heatsink) make sure you can get less than 1 ohm reading between two points on the sink and then while holding the lead to the sink check positive and ground for anything other than infinity on the multimeter and as others have pointed out if you do, that's a problem and you need to look to see where it's shorted out. 

Did you use any thermal paste on those LED's? If so, it's possible depending on what it is, like Artic 5 with silver in it vs ceramic you could have a short to ground from that. The ceramic version doesn't conduct electricity whereas the one with silver could.


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## monkeyruler90 (Apr 13, 2008)

you can do it sean!


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

... Thinking about swapping the individual LEDs out for 12v LED strips...


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Have you been able to diagnose anything?


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> Have you been able to diagnose anything?


I have diagnosed that I dont want to resolder 72 LEDs....


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> I have diagnosed that I dont want to resolder 72 LEDs....


You don't know what you would need to resolder till you take a multimeter to it to check for short to grounds.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Wow? All damaged or shorted to the aluminum?

Noticed where you thought of using 12 volt strips.
Something similar to Fissure's recent build?


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## joebob296 (Sep 30, 2016)

If you want to ship it to me, with materials, ill build it for you. Sacramento CA

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

joebob296 said:


> If you want to ship it to me, with materials, ill build it for you. Sacramento CA
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


I like your thinking to help him out! It can't be past the point of no return! 

Sean W have you contacted any local fishkeepers on say a Facebook group to lend a hand who may have more electrical knowledge? Or any buddies you may know that could help? That is if you don't take JoeBob up in his offer. 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

...I don't know. Im just super discouraged. It took me 3 days to solder all those LEDs, I was supposed to plug it in and it just work... 

Time has the ability to get rid of the negative and amplify the positive. I just need time away from the project. I was this close to literally throwing the whole thing out of the window.


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> ...I don't know. Im just super discouraged. It took me 3 days to solder all those LEDs, I was supposed to plug it in and it just work...
> 
> Time has the ability to get rid of the negative and amplify the positive. I just need time away from the project. I was this close to literally throwing the whole thing out of the window.


Well, I'm glad you didn't just chuck it! That would be a lot of wasted money! Issues like this is another up side to having separate "channels" for the different colored LED's, but a bit late for that aspect now. Like I said before get someone to give you a hand if you aren't familiar with troubleshooting electronics to see what the problem is when you are ready. Good luck with it! Soon I'll be starting to put my DIY led setup together for my 125g. 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## joebob296 (Sep 30, 2016)

Sean W. said:


> ...I don't know. Im just super discouraged. It took me 3 days to solder all those LEDs, I was supposed to plug it in and it just work...
> 
> Time has the ability to get rid of the negative and amplify the positive. I just need time away from the project. I was this close to literally throwing the whole thing out of the window.


If you need help let me know, my offer will stay standing


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> First, yes K's are all over the board no matter what they say.. More of a range..
> I used to know who made the RayII diodes (an OEM, not a normal brand name most are familiar with)
> consider colors "accents" except if you get real anal ( I am) and want to fill spectrum gaps/weaknesses such as cyan, violet , and the deeper reds..
> 
> ...


 How would you wire/dim/power these? How many would I need for my 48" fixture? I did some math, it looks like I could physically fit 120 of these "COBS" on my heatsink, but that would be 2,880 LEDs... I imagine that would be overkill?

-Sean


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> How would you wire/dim/power these? How many would I need for my 48" fixture? I did some math, it looks like I could physically fit 120 of these "COBS" on my heatsink, but that would be 2,880 LEDs... I imagine that would be overkill?
> 
> -Sean


If you are asking about the Vero 18 COB's you only need a few across the heatsink for your tank, as they are more like a 60-80w LED vs the 3w ones you have. Take a look at my LED build link in my signature, granted mine isn't built yet, but I've got a link to a few people that have theirs built in my first post. But as one person mentioned to me in a later post being your tank isn't as deep as a 125g like my tank you might be able to go with Vero 8's or 10's or 13's. Think the smaller the number the smaller the COB. But that being said I'd hate to see you waste what you already have on hand and not give that a shot at fixing. 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

If you are referring to ribbons, I'd consider the new Bridgelux strips..









so [email protected] (44") @ 44.2V (approx) [email protected] [email protected]
132.6V in series...............


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> If you are referring to ribbons, I'd consider the new Bridgelux strips..
> 
> 
> 
> ...





jeffkrol said:


> *now that said.. there are some really fun cheap products:
> 291177489517
> go to eevil bay..
> 120W for 15.29...
> Panels run at 12v..*


No I was talking about these ebay LED Map light panels


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

6W panels.. Need a 12v constant voltage power supply. not seeing any current limiting resistors (doesn't mean they aren't "somewhere")
figure 2W /gallon.. 

you can dim w/ a TC-420 (watch current limit) or any of the cheap PWM strip dimmers..It's just a strip as a panel really.

1/2A (roughly) per panel should work if I figured that right..
Listed at 5W @ 12V so 416mA..


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Just have to say it's killing me you are looking at other methods of lighting instead of the ones right in front of you. If you are gonna chuck it all, I'll take all your LED's! Wires and all so you don't have to take it all apart.


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## joebob296 (Sep 30, 2016)

Didn't you say that some companies sponsored your build due to you having a YouTube channel? What's with the new equipment approach?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

joebob296 said:


> Didn't you say that some companies sponsored your build due to you having a YouTube channel? What's with the new equipment approach?
> 
> Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


Im frustrated, I just want a LED light over my tank


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## joebob296 (Sep 30, 2016)

Sean W. said:


> Im frustrated, I just want a LED light over my tank


Dude.....Send it to me! I am quite busy with work, however I can either have it working, or tell you what is bad. If you really want to go a different route, I'll buy what you don't want; as I want more leds over my tank.

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Sean W. said:


> Im frustrated, I just want a LED light over my tank


Sean, I think you just need some inspiration........how about Bluto from Animal House:

What? Over? Did you say 'over'? Nothing is over until we decide it is! Was it over when the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor? Hell no!...

It ain't over now, 'cause when the goin' gets tough, the tough get goin'. Who's with me? Let's go! Come on!...


Now come on......let's see you finish those lights!:grin2::grin2:


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Alright, So for the first time this year I have actually touched this project. I was pretty upset when It didnt work. Sometimes you just have to step away from the project for a little while and come back to it.

The last time I touched this project was when I plugged it into the wall, I heard a pop on the fixture and then nothing would work. The Driver was still working, but no LEDs were lighting up and I just threw my hands up, shoved it in the corner and there it sat for a month.










Yesterday I was digging through my "wire/cable/led/powersupply" box and found a 12v 1amp DC powersupply and I remembered you guys recommending to use one of those to test groups of 3 or 4 LEDs all the way down the fixture to trouble shoot. 

I just finished testing the fixture with that power-supply and I found 2 defective LEDs, one that stopped the flow of electricity, and one LED that wouldn't light up. Mind you tho, this is with the Red LEDs still being excluded from the series. 

I marked the two trouble makers with tape. My soldering iron is buried right now, dont feel like getting it out tonight, will tackle it tomorrow. The hope is to replace those two LEDs and all will be well, then I can re wire the 660nm Red leds into the series and everything will be perfect... Cross your fingers.


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

There may be hope with Albert in the corner!


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Did Albert stop helping???


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## Mattb126 (Nov 13, 2016)

An update would be nice!

Sent from my Moto Z using Tapatalk


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Oh Sean! What's going on?


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

Sean W. said:


> Sometimes you just have to step away from the project for a little while and come back to it.[/img]


Will there be an update soon?
A "Little While" has passed.


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

Still sitting in the corner, un-touched...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

"aww come on man"... 
You got a 1/2 doz people willing to make this thing sing....


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## BettaBettas (Aug 21, 2016)

aw


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## Maryland Guppy (Dec 6, 2014)

@BettaBettas can't remember the nights @jeffkrol knows what time it is @chayos00 wants to show us the 125G
And I say it ain't all that hard to swim.
@Sean W. "Still sitting in the corner"
We have determined your signature!

Joking aside, many here are willing to help and offer advice.
Many of us have done this before and are trying to help.
We have helped others in similar predicaments too.

That's money sitting in the corner, yours and what vendors invested?
I would really like a success story here, I'm still willing to help!


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Maryland Guppy said:


> @BettaBettas can't remember the nights
> @jeffkrol knows what time it is
> @chayos00 wants to show us the 125G
> And I say it ain't all that hard to swim.
> ...


Gotta get the 125g healthy at the moment. Damned not QTing fish.... but that's another story.

Sean - I have a buddy in the Temecula area is coming out this week, maybe I should have you meet him and have him bring the light to me so I can get it working for you. LOL


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## Sean W. (Oct 12, 2013)

chayos00 said:


> Gotta get the 125g healthy at the moment. Damned not QTing fish.... but that's another story.
> 
> Sean - I have a buddy in the Temecula area is coming out this week, maybe I should have you meet him and have him bring the light to me so I can get it working for you. LOL


I would, but temecula isnt exactly right down the street haha


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

Sean W. said:


> I would, but temecula isnt exactly right down the street haha


LOL no worries! Couldn't recall where you said you were. But I was thinking somewhere in LA. 

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk


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## brankor (Sep 1, 2017)

Admins should change thread name to diy led build in progress .


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

brankor said:


> Admins should change thread name to an unsuccessful diy .
> Waste of time !


The user can too. 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


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## KayakJimW (Aug 12, 2016)

chayos00 said:


> Interesting how a person with 1 post starts with their first one to complain at you.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk


I don't see this as a direct complaint at Sean. I see a new member (which we all were once) seeing a very popular thread titled *"The Ultimate DIY Aquarium LED Build"*, investing time to read through eight pages of pretty cool info that ended not so Ultimate, and making a suggestion so others don't get, well burned, wasting their time too. I think a heads up edit would be a decent courtesy, rather than misleading readers. For the one guy who said something there were probably dozens (or hundreds+ thanks to Google searches) who fell for the title, read every post, and then thought what he thought.

It's easy to get defensive but think of it from the other perspective. You're new to a site, read a long self proclaimed Ultimate build, and it ended like this did. Most would think, "man, that title should be edited". This shouldn't be taken as disrespect, but even putting "Attempt" or "Work in Progress" at the end or something would be less _'false advertisey' _. I would probably feel upset too if I spent all that money and time for these results, but "unsuccessful diy" IS more accurate than "Ultimate Build". Love you guys, but lets be fair


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## chayos00 (Sep 22, 2013)

KayakJimW said:


> I don't see this as a direct complaint at Sean. I see a new member (which we all were once) seeing a very popular thread titled *"The Ultimate DIY Aquarium LED Build"*, investing time to read through eight pages of pretty cool info that ended not so Ultimate, and making a suggestion so others don't get, well burned, wasting their time too. I think a heads up edit would be a decent courtesy, rather than misleading readers. For the one guy who said something there were probably dozens (or hundreds+ thanks to Google searches) who fell for the title, read every post, and then thought what he thought.
> 
> It's easy to get defensive but think of it from the other perspective. You're new to a site, read a long self proclaimed Ultimate build, and it ended like this did. Most would think, "man, that title should be edited". This shouldn't be taken as disrespect, but even putting "Attempt" or "Work in Progress" at the end or something would be less _'false advertisey' _. I would probably feel upset too if I spent all that money and time for these results, but "unsuccessful diy" IS more accurate than "Ultimate Build". Love you guys, but lets be fair


Fair point for sure! I totally understand! I'll update my post to not be a turd. LOL


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