# Post pics of your DIY stands



## BayBoy1205

*Stand*

Here is the stand that I built for a 126g. I no longer use that light fixture. It was to heavy in my opinion. 
I have made a new one out of aluminum. Can post pics of that if you like.


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## Gatekeeper

Have you looked through the DIY section? Just by glancing at the first page I saw three of them (never mind the big sticky at the top)


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## timelessr1

This is before the staining....its skinned with Cherry ply, and cherry hardwood


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## Sven

Thanks for the replies. Yes I have been looking through the DIY section here and on other boards, Just thought I might get some good idas that I haven't found before. Especially for doors.
Since I never found a thread like this one, I decided to start one and thought it might be useful for others looking into building stands.


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## houstonhobby

Have not built it yet so no pics but somebody on this forum gave me a great idea on doors . . . do a french cleat instead of hinges. Two things are nice about this. (1) When you want to get under there to work you just lift the whole door off and get it out of the way. (2) Do four of these across the front. It means the whole front comes off for easier access, plus four doors will look like a piece of furniture, while two big doors will look like an aquarium stand.


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## [email protected]

If you're planning on paint, mdf, or better yet sign board mdf can be perfect. Sign board takes paint really well. 

Painted pine generally looks bad unless you fill, seal and sand reseal, and sand again. 

On a stand that size, if you plan to skin with plywood, a decent veneer really doesn't cost that much more than good birch plywood. 

If you aren't experienced with door hanging, consider skipping hinges or having a cabinet shop make the doors and install the hinges for you. If you are willing to let them do it in slack time, the cost won't be a bad as you might think. Learning on a huge piece of furniture you will be looking at every day isn't usually a good thing. 

Don't forget to install a good power strip setup inside the stand. I like this one http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F5H300-EXT-10-Outlet-Protector-15-Foot/dp/B00006BB7U Ten outlets and a fifteen foot cord. 

Good luck.


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## redman88

i plan on putting the door on next week so i will post another pic then.


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## brion0

I made this stand, the front panel comes out so nothing blocks access under the stand. Also saved a few dollars on hinges an handles.


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## Hoppy

This is the one I made for my 45 gallon tank:









And, for the ten gallon tank I tore down last week end:


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## dantra

I still have a lot of work to do. I started building a stand for my 60p about three days ago. I still have to install the “Euro Hinges”, sand it down as I apply wood filler to try and make it seamless so that the laminate (Formica) applies smoothly.

Clearly my inspiration and blueprint comes from Jason Baliban. I too ordered the laminate (Formica) from Lowe’s. Thanks Jason.

*EDIT*** Finally finish the stand. I decided to paint it as opposed to finishing it with formica. I'll just hold on to the formica for another project.








(Rough finished) 








(Primed) 








(Finished product)


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## Minsc

Not as nice as some of the others, this is my 15 tall.


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## Sven

Thanks for the replies. I defenately not experienced with doors, so I´ll look into that french cleat or having the doors built for me by professionals. Since the tank will be in my living room I´ll probably be involving professionals to please the mrs.


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## BayBoy1205

If you don't want to build your own doors I would look at Home Depot or Lowe's for doors. Many sizes can be found. I did strip down the doors to bare wood as I didn't like the color they came in and then stained them to match the wood.
Here are some doors I used on my bar:


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## rolloffhill

Lots more pics here...


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## blair

*10 Gallon Stand*

Here is my 10 gallon stand out of oak. The design is meant to be viewed from all sides; centrally placed in a room (not against a wall like it is at the moment). The suspended shelf houses my CO2 and filter along with various ferts and tools.











































The legs are held at the base with a tension cable to counter the outward thrust.


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## Manolito

Here is mine for 150 gal.

Basically 2 x 4 and wrapped it with a 3/4" oak plywood.


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## Hilde

Thread of PlantBrain's stand and light canopy.

Griffin_Pack's metal stand converted to wood stand.


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## Craigthor

I've got one in the DIY forum...

Some great looking stands here.

Also I gave Houston the idea of using a cleat so the door can be removed.

Craig


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## Gatekeeper

Manolito, that is a real nice stand! Can't believe I never saw that before.


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## Sven

some real nice stands here, this has already given me a few good ideas, thank you all, but keep them coming 
I´ll make sure to post mine when it´s done. Got the lumber yesterday.
How imoratand is it the the lumber is straight? I think I got very straight 2x6's for the upper frame, but the the 2x4's are not as straight. 
My sisters husband is a carpenter and he told me that it was a waste of time to look fer perfectly straight lumber at the store since it would always bend a bit when you bring it home where it is hotter then at the store since i´m not buying dried wood. 
Hvae you been storing your lumber at room temperature for some time before building the stands?


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## jinx©

For a carpenter using a large amount of lumber on typical projects (Generally for someone else I might add), I can see where they may feel looking for straight lumber is a waste of time. 

When building a stand, personally I would definitely take the time to handpick the small amount of lumber needed for the straightest you can find.


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## Manolito

gmccreedy said:


> Manolito, that is a real nice stand! Can't believe I never saw that before.


Thanks Glen.

Actually I lied a little bit. I bought those aok cabinet doors at a local Habitat for Humanity store for $2 a piece. So I design the stand and the canopy so the doors will fit accordingly.

Just have to be creative a little bit. :thumbsup:


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## original kuhli

A post talking about the setup is here:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...ikka-updated-photos-before-after-replant.html

Doing a better job isn't really that much harder than doing a 2*4 or 2*6 job, just spend a bit more on wood and take a little time to think it through.


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## customdrumfinishes

29g diy stand and hood, hood has changed alittle since moulding has been added and top is hinged and doesnt look purple in real life lol its brown, wierd flash i guess. why dont people use feet/legs on there stands?
mine are 4x4 treated lumber.


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## helgymatt

Nice thread!
Here is my 75 gallon stand build thread with lots of pics...
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...07-rimless-75-gallon-close-loop-filter-4.html

and a picture for this thread...







[/url]


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## imeridian

I had some issues with learning how to use the random orbit sander when I finished the doors, it looks better in person. :icon_redf










My office is rather small with not enough room to back up far enough to take in both the stand and the tank without the funny angle.


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## Sven

Helgymatt, imeridian and Kuhli, your stands are a bit similar but look very simple and sleek. Likemalot.

I´ve started building mine and the skeleton is done. I'll have a 2" oak frame on all the edges of the stand and between the 3 doors. The doors and skin will be spray-varnished white. I'll use 16mm mdf for skinning the tank and the oak fram will be cut from solid oak hardwood boards.

I´ll post pictures when the stand gets skinned.


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## rolloffhill

original kuhli said:


> A post talking about the setup is here:
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...ikka-updated-photos-before-after-replant.html
> 
> Doing a better job isn't really that much harder than doing a 2*4 or 2*6 job, just spend a bit more on wood and take a little time to think it through.


That is very nice!


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## mr r

hey here is my DIT stand and hood.










get better pic soon if any wants it.


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## agutt

here is mine for my 20H


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## spiralin

Very nice tanks, really great ideas i am getting here for a stand & a canopy , keep then coming guys & gals, will be watching !!!


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## rbarn

100 gal with custom metal/cherry wood stand

Stand is made from 3" sqr steel tubes with 90* angle iron on top
that makes a channel the Aq. sits down in.

Frnt and side panels are rigged so that you can lift them right off
for easy access to pumps and such.

Inserts are 3/4" cherry plywood with light stain.
Total cost for materials was about $300.

Working on a matching floating box that will hang about 10-12"
above Aq. and hide lights for nice "open top" look


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## Hoppy

rbarn said:


> 100 gal with custom metal/cherry wood stand
> 
> Stand is made from 3" sqr steel tubes with 90* angle iron on top
> that makes a channel the Aq. sits down in.
> 
> Frnt and side panels are rigged so that you can lift them right off
> for easy access to pumps and such.
> 
> Inserts are 3/4" cherry plywood with light stain.
> Total cost for materials was about $300.
> 
> Working on a matching floating box that will hang about 10-12"
> above Aq. and hide lights for nice "open top" look


I really like this one! And, it can be made from wood to give the same appearance. The necessary bracing could be hidden under the panels. Now, I wish I needed a stand.


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## Logan's Daddy

75 Gallon stand, all wood construction, not quite done yet, but it's coming along... 



Here's the concept:


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## rbarn

Hoppy said:


> I really like this one! And, it can be made from wood to give the same appearance. The necessary bracing could be hidden under the panels. Now, I wish I needed a stand.


Thanks I have matching 55gal one too that was the original.

It has a nice matching top that sits on the aquarium and the front panel is
split in two for doors with these killer flush mount hidden hinges and small
black metal sqr handles on front.

Sorry no pics of it. Its in storage buried in a closet at the time being.


Still scratching my head on maybe doing something to "break up"
the front of this stand too. Maybe some trim or something in the center.


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## Sven

adding trim or anything like that is of course up to you rbarn, but I like the simplicity of your stand very much, wouldn´t change a thing.


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## rbarn

Sven said:


> adding trim or anything like that is of course up to you rbarn, but I like the simplicity of your stand very much, wouldn´t change a thing.


Thanks

Here's a pic with panels removed.
As you can see using steel legs frees up a lot of room underneath.


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## Sven

spacious....... Nice plumbings!


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## manhatton

I dig using the Fluval as an extra media chamber. Looks very clean, nice work!


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## dj2606

rbarn said:


> Thanks
> 
> Here's a pic with panels removed.
> As you can see using steel legs frees up a lot of room underneath.


Love the plumbing. Could you explain it in detail?


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## rbarn

Gravity feed from internal overflow
down to bottom side of wet/dry - flows up thru mechanical filter
spills over into drip tray and goes bio-bale media.

Below bio-bale in the sump area, there is an inlet and outlet to the Fluval
Before water returns from Fluval back to sump area it goes thru UV light

2nd pipe coming down next to return pump is new water feed from
aging tank.

It's all gravity fed from the overflow. Return pump stops and whole 
system will stop, no chance of runaway siphons. 

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/85107-diy-wet-dry-built-overflow.html


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## customdrumfinishes

nice filter setup rbarn, looks great!


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## nazspeed

*wow*

i thoght id never say this but Filtartion ENVY comes to mind nice setup i wish i had the room!


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## rbarn

nazspeed said:


> i thoght id never say this but Filtartion ENVY comes to mind nice setup i wish i had the room!


ROFL, I just cut a huge hole in the wall behind all that mess to
make even more room for a chiller.

Will make a little "pocket" that extends into the garage a little.
Sheet rock and paint it all out. Should look nice. With the chiller
venting its hot air into the garage and recessed into the wall.


Good thing I'm already divorced, or my wife would kill me.


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## Shawnboy

Have you looked at bathroom vanities for any ideas?


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## wkndracer

*Stand end table combo*

75g Stand end table combo. All oak and oak plywood. Tons of storage and easy access.


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## MarkMc

Here is my 55 red oak stand and canopy.


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## CL

Here's my most recent attempt. Took a couple of hours. Not too bad.


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## malaybiswas

my pair of stands for 22 gallon tanks


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## god91234

first ....


rbarn said:


> Good thing I'm already divorced, or my wife would kill me.


HA HA HA ... 



malaybiswas said:


> my pair of stands for 22 gallon tanks


 are those copper light bars:icon_eek:? great idea really like the look of it. i am going to have to try to copy that.


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## Hoppy

This thread is on track to being a very valuable sticky! Here is one vote to move it to that status now.


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## Regloh

+1 on the sticky... very good resource for inspiration...


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## Veloth

Vote #3


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## CL

MarkMc said:


> Here is my 55 red oak stand and canopy.


is your sump insulated?


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## MarkMc

Yes, it's a 10 gallon tank with a DIY acrylic wet dry insert.


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## CL

Well It's very nice


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## Veloth

Here's mine. I've started working on one for my 30g.


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## smoq

god91234 said:


> first ....
> 
> HA HA HA ...
> 
> 
> are those copper light bars:icon_eek:? great idea really like the look of it. i am going to have to try to copy that.


+1 for the cooper bars. Do you have a close-up photo so we can steal the idea?


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## lumpyfunk

marcinsmok said:


> +1 for the cooper bars. Do you have a close-up photo so we can steal the idea?


If and when you try this, have on hand a nice thick wet rag. After you apply the heat and solder, grab the pipe (with a rag it will be hot) and use the wet rag to clean up the solder, you just grab it and twist. This will prevent any drips and give a clean finish to the solder. You don't need to use a ton of solder because it wont have to hold water under pressure.

Here is a YouTube link, he does it a little differently, but essentially it is the same.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rv-ivJbls68

Of course you could just glue or crimp the joints if you would rather.


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## malaybiswas

god91234 said:


> are those copper light bars:icon_eek:? great idea really like the look of it. i am going to have to try to copy that.


Yes they are copper bars


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## malaybiswas

Hoppy said:


> This thread is on track to being a very valuable sticky! Here is one vote to move it to that status now.


#4 or 5 whatever it is


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## malaybiswas

marcinsmok said:


> +1 for the cooper bars. Do you have a close-up photo so we can steal the idea?


I don't have a close up of the top right away. I will take one and post. However the construction is pretty simple. No welding or soldering. Plain elbow joints and liquid copper solder. Holding good for over 4 months now.

For details you can check the link on my signature below


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## Sven

Well, I've been working a bit on my stand since starting this thread. Thought I might share some pics since this thread got such a great respond. Building the stand has proven to be a very educating task for me, since I didn´t have much experience with carpentry before. Here are some shots of the progress so far.










Got some leftover solid oak from hardwood floor boards, cut them down, sanded and put some oil varnish on them for trim. 









Got some mdf for skinning the stand, currently working on the doors. I´ll then be painting them with white half-glossy lacquer.


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## CL

wuh-ho-ho, that's a very nice stand!


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## manhatton

Definitely sticky this one.


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## smoq

My recently "journaled" stand for 75g tank (see link in my signature).


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## Sven

read your journal marcinsmok, great craftsmanshipt and a very fine looking stand you made there.


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## smoq

Sven said:


> read your journal marcinsmok, great craftsmanshipt and a very fine looking stand you made there.


 THX, roud:


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## gentledental4u

clwatkins10 said:


> Here's my most recent attempt. Took a couple of hours. Not too bad.



I love this stand...:thumbsup: did you just paint it black or did you add any primer,etc.?


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## rbarn

My other DIY home made metal stand for a 55/60
metal with cherry wood


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## rrrrramos

Just finished this last night, it's nothing amazing but I like it. It's built to hold a 10g in the future, 2.5g is calling it home for now.


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## Regloh

rrrrramos said:


> Just finished this last night, it's nothing amazing but I like it. It's built to hold a 10g in the future, 2.5g is calling it home for now.


Ha, that looks really funny... 

I like the style of the stand a lot... It'll look even better when the lager tank is on it.


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## Hoppy

Off subject, but I wonder if any of those Hampton Bay desk lamps has ever been sold to be used for anything but an aquarium.

Nice looking cabinet, too!


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## Sven

Finally!!!! here it is, the final product. Painting took alot of time, ended up putting 3 coats of lacquer on. It's not fully built on the inside, I'll be adding some shelves and electric plugs later on, but the outside is done!


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## Hoppy

That is a very nice look! I think this thread has given us at least double the number of stand design options than I knew existed before. It is a great addition to the "catalog".


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## Haagenize

Hoppy said:


> Off subject, but I wonder if any of those Hampton Bay desk lamps has ever been sold to be used for anything but an aquarium.
> 
> Nice looking cabinet, too!


actually my friend uses a hampton desk lamp for homework, but its way too white for me, i look at it for a second then i have to look away


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## curly01

*120 gallon stand*

Here are some pics of the stand that I'm in the process of building at the moment. If I would have though I would have taken pics of the entire project, but I was too excited to start on it that I forgot all about it.


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## Hoppy

curly01 said:


> Here are some pics of the stand that I'm in the process of building at the moment. If I would have though I would have taken pics of the entire project, but I was too excited to start on it that I forgot all about it.


That is a very interesting design. Do you have a pic of the tank on the stand yet? Why did you put the big "chamfers" on the front corners - to match the tank, or just for the appearance? And, I assume the back is recessed so the stand extends to the wall while the tank doesn't?


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## CAM6467

curly01 said:


> Here are some pics of the stand that I'm in the process of building at the moment. If I would have though I would have taken pics of the entire project, but I was too excited to start on it that I forgot all about it.


 
Very nice piece of construction. I am impressed with your craftsmanship. I just made one of my own the other day so I can't help but notice the little details. I like those raised panel doors and all the sharp lines. It looks like you planned this project out very well. If you don't mind answering a few questions, what type of wood(s) did you use? Do you have any pictures of your joinery? What are the dimensions of the stand? Did you use a router table to make your trim pieces? 

Regards,

Charlie Mims


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## curly01

Hoppy said:


> That is a very interesting design. Do you have a pic of the tank on the stand yet? Why did you put the big "chamfers" on the front corners - to match the tank, or just for the appearance? And, I assume the back is recessed so the stand extends to the wall while the tank doesn't?


Thanks Hoppy, no i don't have a picture of it with the stand on it yet, tank is on another stand at the moment full of water. the reason for the "chamfers" on the corners is so it matches some of the other furniture in the living room. and yes the back is recessed so I can help hide some of the plumbing as it comes up the back


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## curly01

CAM6467 said:


> Very nice piece of construction. I am impressed with your craftsmanship. I just made one of my own the other day so I can't help but notice the little details. I like those raised panel doors and all the sharp lines. It looks like you planned this project out very well. If you don't mind answering a few questions, what type of wood(s) did you use? Do you have any pictures of your joinery? What are the dimensions of the stand? Did you use a router table to make your trim pieces?
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Charlie Mims


Thanks also Charlie. I did plan this one out quite a bit. I had it sketched out on paper with no idea if it would work or not though. I figured I might as well try and see what would happen. The stand is 4 feet 6 inches wide, 2 feet 6 inches deep and 3 feet tall. I wanted it taller then the stand it is on now which is only 2 and a half feet tall. I would like to take credit for the doors, but i can't I found them at a local cabinet maker, he had made them a while back and they were the wrong size, so I got them both for 50 dollars and they were already finished. I just used 2x4's for the main frame construction and glued and screwed them together, sorry no pictures. I wanted to make sure the 2x4's were straight so i just ran them down the table saw taking an 1/8" off each side. it also helped to make sure they were all the same width so I wouldn't have any uneveness. I then added another 2x4 and a 1x4 to the front and the sides to get them out so there is a "ledge" on it. For the front corners I ran the 2x4's down a table saw at a 45 degree angle to get them to make the corners. I then covered it with 1/4 oak plywood. The top trim piece i bought at a local hardware store. The bottom trim is made out of 1x4 oak and cut it down to 2 3/4 inches, i have a router that i used to put the design in the top of it(i wish i had a router table). I still have to mount the doors. I am wanting to install some shelves behind the right hand door. I think I am going to paint the bottom of the stand also even though it will never be seen. It looks bad where I spilled a full quart of stain on it  Feel free to ask any more questions, I don't mind answering.


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## Hoppy

I'm looking forward to seeing this with the tank on it. How will you do the lights? A matching hood?


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## plantbrain

I made a quicky for my 38 Gal:










More an ADA style.

I'm going to buy a 60p ADA tank with metal ADA in/out flows(13mm) and Rena XP1 filter for my Zebra plecos. So I'll need to make another ADA stand style.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## plantbrain

god91234 said:


> first ....
> 
> HA HA HA ...
> 
> 
> are those copper light bars:icon_eek:? great idea really like the look of it. i am going to have to try to copy that.


You can spray paint the pipe or use the electrical conduit pipe(1/2, 3/4 and 1" sizes for any sized suspended lighting), copper does not match with much:redface:

The ADA style stands are nice.
A few folks in the SFBAAPS have done them very nicely.

I might decide to go that route with the laminate.

Sven's stand is very nice, I like that one.

Regards,
Tom Barr


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## plantbrain

rbarn said:


> Gravity feed from internal overflow
> down to bottom side of wet/dry - flows up thru mechanical filter
> spills over into drip tray and goes bio-bale media.
> 
> Below bio-bale in the sump area, there is an inlet and outlet to the Fluval
> Before water returns from Fluval back to sump area it goes thru UV light
> 
> 2nd pipe coming down next to return pump is new water feed from
> aging tank.
> 
> It's all gravity fed from the overflow. Return pump stops and whole
> system will stop, no chance of runaway siphons.
> 
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/85107-diy-wet-dry-built-overflow.html


The design: the biggest is the high loss of CO2 since the wet/dry section is exposed to the air. If it had a sealable lid, then you'd greatly improve the CO2 situation. You might come up with a good solution there. 
eg: Some sealing insulation tape and a glass lid with a latch etc.

Good prefilter design, no overflow, clean that sponge weekly or every 2 weeks and it should really keep things clean. If you added a needle wheel, say a Rio 1000 with a snipped impeller that fed into the suction side of the return pump, then you'd get really good CO2.

I've never liked fluvals
Rena, Ehiem etc.

Your system has a lot of good aspects for automated water changing. I'd try and hard plumb those into the system if you own the home etc.

Then turn a valve to drain(water go to the landscaping), turn another to refill,(from aging tank or tap).

Makes the the water change easy.
Nice skills putting it together.
A lot of thought went into it.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## CL

gentledental4u said:


> I love this stand...:thumbsup: did you just paint it black or did you add any primer,etc.?


I just spray painted it 
Excellent stands, everyone!


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## curly01

Hoppy said:


> I'm looking forward to seeing this with the tank on it. How will you do the lights? A matching hood?


i'm wanting to do a matching hood, will have to see if i can or not though, i'm trying to picture building it in my head and i'm having trouble, right now i have a coral life light fixture that i will use until i get the hood built


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## Sven

> Sven's stand is very nice, I like that one.


Thanks for the compliment Tom, I´ll be recieveng the glass for the tank shortly and I´ll start building the frame for the lights soon, I took your advice and got 19mm glass. 
The light fixture will just be a simple box with t5´s, no too much lighting since the tank will be filled with lowlight plants, anubias etc. I´ll paint the light fixture with the same white lacquer as the stand, no oak trimmings though. I´ll post pics when it´s done.

I´m also very fond of the ADA style stands like yours Tom. I´ve seen a couple of those DIY ada´s on this board and they alway look great with smaller tanks. At first I wanted to make my stand in that style, but I wasn´t sure it would look good in that size. But I built on that general idea with my stand and added the oak trimming to connect the stand to the oak flooring.

Hope you all continue to post your stands, always fun to see different ideas and projects.


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## belladee

Here is my stand...
















still need to stain the doors... I dont think is is ever going to happen


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## rbarn

plantbrain said:


> The design: the biggest is the high loss of CO2 since the wet/dry section is exposed to the air. If it had a sealable lid, then you'd greatly improve the CO2 situation. You might come up with a good solution there.
> eg: Some sealing insulation tape and a glass lid with a latch etc.
> 
> Good prefilter design, no overflow, clean that sponge weekly or every 2 weeks and it should really keep things clean. If you added a needle wheel, say a Rio 1000 with a snipped impeller that fed into the suction side of the return pump, then you'd get really good CO2.
> 
> I've never liked fluvals
> Rena, Ehiem etc.
> 
> Your system has a lot of good aspects for automated water changing. I'd try and hard plumb those into the system if you own the home etc.
> 
> Then turn a valve to drain(water go to the landscaping), turn another to refill,(from aging tank or tap).
> 
> Makes the the water change easy.
> Nice skills putting it together.
> A lot of thought went into it.
> 
> Regards,
> Tom Barr



Thanks Tom.

Always nice getting feedback from the Pros.

Scrapped that whole plan and filter for something bigger and better.
Twice the size, incorporating some similar feature like you said
and on the other side of the wall in the garage in an insulated DIY box.

24L x 18W x 24H ... about 40 gallons
Keeping those dems. you can use off the shelf 24x18 sheets of 1/4" acrylic
from Lowes. Drastically reduces number of cuts you have to make.


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## 4f1hmi

I did some modification on an old desk drawer and drilled holes on the side of it to accomodate my cooper tubes. This copper tubes serves as my stand for my diy light canopy. Tank is made from a broken glass table top.


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## Gatekeeper

4f1hmi,

That is some nice handy work. Not sure if I am sold on the copper posts (could be one of those, I need to see it person, and I think it is), but your creativity is stunning.

And the tank is gorgeous too.


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## hydrophyte

here are some shots of these ones that i have made with 2X4's, 4X4's and galvanized framing connectors.









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## oldpunk78

^ alright, now that i've seen the green bottom in a shot exposing the whole set-up, i like it. i would also like to retract the statement i posted claiming that black would have been a better option. nice work!


----------



## waterfaller1

This is a fabulous thread with gorgeous work. You are all really talented:thumbsup:


----------



## deondrec

hydrophyte said:


> here are some shots of these ones that i have made with 2X4's, 4X4's and galvanized framing connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~


 Wow i like this. Did you use a guide to make this? I'm interested in copying it for myself?


----------



## 4f1hmi

gmccreedy said:


> 4f1hmi,
> 
> That is some nice handy work. Not sure if I am sold on the copper posts (could be one of those, I need to see it person, and I think it is), but your creativity is stunning.
> 
> And the tank is gorgeous too.


Thanks Glenn. Glad you appreciate it!


----------



## 4f1hmi

Very nice Hydrophyte. Cute garden at the bottom also.I'm sure you will have some growth up there!


----------



## hydrophyte

deondrec said:


> Wow i like this. Did you use a guide to make this? I'm interested in copying it for myself?


i have most of it explained in this thread...

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/85748-aquarium-stand-raw-industrial-style-5.html

the really compelling thing about these is that they complement the look of the widely available plastic-rimmed tanks. 

it's all pretty simple--the only tricky part is finding the right lumber stock. most of the important details are mentioned in that thread. if you remind me i could try to come back with dimensions too.


----------



## plantman119

hydrophyte i really love the minimalism of your design. I'm building a similar one when i start a nano.

Allow me to show off.


----------



## dizguy

Here's the stand i built for my 180 that's in the works. It is constructed of all 2 layer 3/4" ply sandwiched and rabbeted construction. I conditioned with Minwax waterbased conditioner. I stained using their pickled oak and followed it up with their acrylic sealer. I still do not know in what style I want to do the doors. 

I am also looking for hinges that allow quick door removal. Does anyone recommend any?


----------



## plantman119

dizguy said:


> Here's the stand i built for my 180 that's in the works. It is constructed of all 2 layer 3/4" ply sandwiched and rabbeted construction. I conditioned with Minwax waterbased conditioner. I stained using their pickled oak and followed it up with their acrylic sealer. I still do not know in what style I want to do the doors.
> 
> I am also looking for hinges that allow quick door removal. Does anyone recommend any?


 Smaller set of standard door hinges like in your house will do it. You just have to tap out the pin.


----------



## tusk

My "mini-me" 10 gallon




















My DIY 110...


----------



## rbarn

Cool kitchen mini-tank

got any construction pics of it ???


----------



## PDX-PLT

dizguy said:


> I am also looking for hinges that allow quick door removal. Does anyone recommend any?


Euro-style cabinet 35mm cup hinges permit the doors to be very easily taken on and off, and additionally, allow infinite adjustment.



http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=55420&cat=3,41241

BTW, to be entirely honest, installing the hinges would be _lots_ easier if you had planned things all out before you began assembly. You've made things harder on yourself than they needed to be.


----------



## tusk

Thanks. No real construction pics http://webpages.charter.net/tusktek/tusktek/pets/shrimp_pics.htm


----------



## Hoppy

tusk said:


> My "mini-me" 10 gallon


That is a very nice looking way to display a 10 gallon tank. Could you post pictures of how you built it? I assume the filter, etc. are in the end area?

Oops, you beat me to it. But, now I can see a lot better how it is made. Unique, and beautiful way to do this. Is that a 36 watt AH Supply light kit?


----------



## tusk

Thanks 

Yes that is an AH 36w kit.


----------



## dizguy

plantman119 said:


> Smaller set of standard door hinges like in your house will do it. You just have to tap out the pin.


Thanks for the sugestion Tom. I should have said I was going for concealed hinges. By the way, how's the 180.



PDX-PLT said:


> Euro-style cabinet 35mm cup hinges permit the doors to be very easily taken on and off, and additionally, allow infinite adjustment.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/page.aspx?c=2&p=55420&cat=3,41241
> 
> BTW, to be entirely honest, installing the hinges would be _lots_ easier if you had planned things all out before you began assembly. You've made things harder on yourself than they needed to be.


I was just looking at the Blum website just before reading this. I think I'm going to go that route. 

As to planning, I changed the setup I was going with (magnetic catch plates only for fast removal) to a regular hinged setup when I scored a nice cartridge cluster filter and decided to move the equipment outside. 

Thanks for the input.:thumbsup:


----------



## Sven

This is legen ........ wait for it........ dary!!
Kudos on this whole setup, it's awesome.

tusk, I´m also liking that 10 gallon you have, very neat setup.


----------



## cfi on the fly

Here is mine. Its taken awhile to get it all together, but its almost done. Im pretty happy except for the blotching of the stain. I guess its hard to get a dark stain on pine without blotching, I used a pre conditioner, but it worked just a little at best. When it dries, it might even out a little more.


----------



## smoq

cfi on the fly said:


> Here is mine. Its taken awhile to get it all together, but its almost done. Im pretty happy except for the blotching of the stain. I guess its hard to get a dark stain on pine without blotching, I used a pre conditioner, but it worked just a little at best. When it dries, it might even out a little more.


 Wow, another great stand we are seeing here! Nice job. Craftsman is my favourite style of furniture.


----------



## Regloh

cfi on the fly said:


> Here is mine. Its taken awhile to get it all together, but its almost done. Im pretty happy except for the blotching of the stain. I guess its hard to get a dark stain on pine without blotching, I used a pre conditioner, but it worked just a little at best. When it dries, it might even out a little more.


You are kidding me...

Didn't you just post this thread a couple of weeks ago???

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/89572-i-need-some-good-sites-stand.html

I am very impressed how quickly you put this thing together... Very nice job!!! It would have taken me longer to plan, than it took you to execute 

I am usually not a big fan of the exposed hinges, but in your thank it work well. I like them...


----------



## cfi on the fly

Yep that was me...Well, it does seem like its taken a very long time. The hardest part is finding that you don't have somethig and then another hour wasted while getting it at the hardware store. I'd starve if this is what I did full time.

But it was great fun and gave me something to look forward to working on when getting home from work.

I like the craftsman style too, and I hope someday that I can get that style house and furniture to match- PURCHASED furniture.


----------



## Sven

that is a great stand cfi on the fly, a very rustic look. I agree with Regloh that I´m not usually a fan of the exposed hinges, but it really works with your stand.


----------



## smoq

cfi on the fly said:


> Yep that was me...Well, it does seem like its taken a very long time. The hardest part is finding that you don't have somethig and then another hour wasted while getting it at the hardware store. I'd starve if this is what I did full time.


LOL Just like I felt when I was building mine. At least 10 trips to HD before I finished it


----------



## kimcadmus

15 year old DIY welded steel w/frosted glass stand for 75g




















Shot of tank only










3mo old DIY Birch and laminate stand for 45g
Doors are inset and flush with face of cabinet and also have soft closure
DIY hanging T5 fixture in progress and not pictured




























Pic of tank this week BEFORE prunning









__________________
Kim

75G planted community
10g Halong Bay Shrimp Scape
Dallas - Ft. Worth Aquatic Plant Club

kimcadmusowens.com


----------



## Regloh

Very nice stands Kim!

Let me guess. The steel frame had to be lopsided because of the AC intake baffle


----------



## kimcadmus

Regloh said:


> Let me guess. The steel frame had to be lopsided because of the AC intake baffle


You're funny. I actually built that stand so long ago I lived in a different house and have moved it all over the country with me for school and work. My friends love me when I move!

The idea for what I would call "asymmetrical" stand was to give the whole tank a lighter appearance. You can't go out and buy metal stands for 75s so I was going to build and weld it myself. The strength of the steel vs. wood allowed me to break up the space roughly into thirds.

Thanks for the comments.


----------



## Regloh

Yeah I didn't really mean to call it lopsided... it's not what I meant. I think the asymmetry it is a nice departure from what people traditionally use for steel stands. You don't see a lot of asymmetrical stands. 
I also like the light behind the frosted glass door.


----------



## Hoppy

Very beautiful stands and tanks, too, Kim. I often wish I had welding and metal working skills to go with my woodworking ones. It just opens up so many other design possibilities. Your laminate faced cabinet is subtle. The design details, like the recesses for door opening are extremely nice. Is that solid birch plywood, like Baltic Birch? Exposed plywood edges can look very good when the plywood is very good quality, but finding that isn't easy anymore.


----------



## Sven

I like your style Kim, nice stands and beautiful tanks!


----------



## kimcadmus

Hoppy - yes it is solid birch ply of good quality very few if any voids so almost no filling was necessary.

Thanks for all the comments.


----------



## CAM6467

Recently finished stand for my 29 gallon cichlid aquarium. It's framed out of 2x4s, skinned with 1/4" birch plywood, and trimmed out with custom made trim pieces crafted in my wood shop. Raised panel doors give this a nice touch, IMO.

Please forgive the canopy. I haven't finished staining it, so it doesn't really look like it matches well with the stand itself.




























Close up of the trim:










One of the doors:










Fully wired (Oops! Boxes wound up on the wrong side....I must have gotten in a hurry!):










Door Detail:


























During construction:










Hard at work:










Tools of the trade:

























Well, that's my project. I've been making these things for a while now, but I've only made a few for myself. I think that this one turned out pretty well. Tell me what you think...


----------



## Regloh

Hey Charlie, 
I didn't know you had other tanks... 
Very nice job on the stand. With every post here I am regretting my decision to buy one off the shelf... It was reasonably expensive and actually not very well made... You live and learn...


----------



## Sven

That´s some nice craftsmanship CAM!!


----------



## Hoppy

Very nice stand, and the proportions of the stand, tank, and hood, are just about perfect to my eyes. I put the electric outlets in the back of my stand, facing forward. That makes it easy to plug in stuff, but as more stuff gets put in there it gets hard to reach in and blindly poke the plug in. With yours, the reach in stuff is eliminated, but not being able to see the sockets would drive me batty. Some of the stands here have those outlets on the side, which seems like a good compromise.


----------



## CAM6467

Regloh said:


> Hey Charlie,





Regloh said:


> I didn't know you had other tanks...
> Very nice job on the stand. With every post here I am regretting my decision to buy one off the shelf... It was reasonably expensive and actually not very well made... You live and learn...




Thanks *Regloh*. I used to have three 10s, one 29, one 55, and one 75. Lets just say that in the time it took for my wife and I to go from dating, to serious, to engaged, to married I lost most of my tanks. Realistically though, it would be a bit ridiculous to have that many tanks in a one bedroom apartment these days. I'm sorry that you went out and bought one. You can't imagine the joy and fulfillment of day-dreaming up your stand while at work, drawing it out, then finally constructing it yourself. It really says a lot about a person that is willing to tackle a project by him/herself. I have no doubt that you've purchased your last stand. I'll be waiting on your DIY stand project on this site buddy! 




Sven said:


> That´s some nice craftsmanship CAM!!


 
Thanks *Sven*! The pictures really don't do it justice, IMO. I build these for people, so I thought that it was about time to put one of my stands under my new 29 gallon. I was just glad that it passed my wife's inspection. 




Hoppy said:


> Very nice stand, and the proportions of the stand, tank, and hood, are just about perfect to my eyes. I put the electric outlets in the back of my stand, facing forward. That makes it easy to plug in stuff, but as more stuff gets put in there it gets hard to reach in and blindly poke the plug in. With yours, the reach in stuff is eliminated, but not being able to see the sockets would drive me batty. Some of the stands here have those outlets on the side, which seems like a good compromise.


 
*Hoppy*, if you could only get up close and personal to this thing. It's definitely not perfect by any means. I somehow got my measurements off and wound up with 3/4" of added space between the lower trim of the aquarium and the trim of the stand. I wish that I had made it more perfectly, but such is life. I actually meant to have the electrical boxes in the back of the stand, but I messed up when I was skinning the frame with the 1/4" birch plywood. Those plugs _should_ be in the back, right hand side of the stand. I'll move them one of these days, but I haven't found the time to work on the thing in the past few days. I've actually been busy building a stand for a customer recently, so I've been neglecting my own things. I guess that's just how things go though. My new design will have the plugs on the side, like you had mentioned. I see what you're saying about having to reach way back into the stand to plug/unplug things. I'll have to post pictures of my work so you guys can critique it and spark ideas for me.

Thank you all,

Charlie Mims


----------



## smoq

Very nice stand Charlie. I like the doors especially, great craftsmanship. And hey, you look just like that guy Brian Austin Green who played in the Terminator TV series


----------



## CAM6467

smoq said:


> Very nice stand Charlie. I like the doors especially, great craftsmanship. And hey, you look just like that guy Brian Austin Green who played in the Terminator TV series


That poor guy. I had no idea more than one person could be _this _ugly! Ha ha. Thanks for the stand compliment *smoq*. I was so happy that those doors turned out well. I just got a new router before making this one. My old 1/2" collet router busted prior to this build and all I could afford at the time was a 1/4" collet Ryobi router. I bought a set of raised panel bits to make the doors and it worked just fine. My props to Ryobi, never would have guessed that it would do such a fine job! It's a bit underpowered for this type of project, but it did well.


----------



## smoq

CAM6467 said:


> That poor guy. I had no idea more than one person could be _this _ugly! Ha ha. Thanks for the stand compliment *smoq*. I was so happy that those doors turned out well. I just got a new router before making this one. My old 1/2" collet router busted prior to this build and all I could afford at the time was a 1/4" collet Ryobi router. I bought a set of raised panel bits to make the doors and it worked just fine. My props to Ryobi, never would have guessed that it would do such a fine job! It's a bit underpowered for this type of project, but it did well.


My girlfriend would eat you alive if you really look like him And yes, ryobi worked for me as well. I remember when I bought their cordless drill and impact few yeras ago and I've seen so many dewalts dying on the job while mine little drill that everybody laugh on is working fine till this day. I am not using it at work anymore, but still...


----------



## Hoppy

I just spent some time trying to find this thread again. Read the whole thing again. I still think this should be a sticky, since it is a valuable stand design resource that will never be old.

I'm thinking hard about setting up a different tank soon, and looking for a stand design that will please both the wife and I. That can be a challenge.


----------



## Wasserpest

If you insist...

I am going to un-sticky the other DIY stand build thread, but add a link to it in the OP.


----------



## Hoppy

Wasserpest said:


> If you insist...
> 
> I am going to un-sticky the other DIY stand build thread, but add a link to it in the OP.


Hip, hip hurray!!:icon_smil Your check is in the mail. :hihi:


----------



## smoq

Hoppy said:


> Hip, hip hurray!!:icon_smil Your check is in the mail. :hihi:


Finally We've been waiting for this for a long time. Good job Wasserpest.


----------



## original kuhli

cfi on the fly said:


> Here is mine. Its taken awhile to get it all together, but its almost done. Im pretty happy except for the blotching of the stain. I guess its hard to get a dark stain on pine without blotching, I used a pre conditioner, but it worked just a little at best. When it dries, it might even out a little more.


You can use shellac to put even out the stain, I'm told it works better than the pre-conditioners and you have a bit more control. I did it on a cherry stand it built, cherry is terrible for blotching.


----------



## PDX-PLT

OK, since this is now asticky, here's a pic of mine, from a previous thread:


----------



## hydrophyte

wow! that's fine cabinetry. what kind of wood is that?


----------



## Hoppy

That wood is quartersawn white oak, typical for furniture made in that style, even though the "real" thing usually isn't finished in that color. I find this stand to be just breath stopping beautiful. Look at the wood grain match on the two left columns of door stiles. How many of us would ever achieve that?


----------



## CL

Awesome stand, PDX-PLT!
Here's mine for my 40 breeder


----------



## smoq

OMG, craftsman style. I love it! Beautiful stand. Do you have more pics of it?


PDX-PLT said:


> OK, since this is now asticky, here's a pic of mine, from a previous thread:


----------



## Regloh

smoq said:


> OMG, craftsman style. I love it! Beautiful stand. Do you have more pics of it?


Hellya... there is a whole thread dedicated to this stand... enjoy!

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/85146-90-gal-arts-crafts-style-diy.html


----------



## Sven

PDX-PLT, your stand defenately sets the bar here (and high), really professional standard.


----------



## JDowns

This is the latest that I've completed for a customer to match office interior. Footprint for tank is 6' x 2'.

Body is quartersawn verticle cut Narra with Tropical Mahogony inlays, top and bottom trim.

Multiple layers of self tinted stains, finished with multiple layers of tinted finishing waxes.

Before Finishing











After Finishing


----------



## NoObLet




----------



## Sven

That´s a very clean and nice stand nooblet. I like it alot, seems to be very well made as well.


----------



## Hoppy

JDowns said:


> This is the latest that I've completed for a customer to match office interior. Footprint for tank is 6' x 2'.
> 
> Body is quartersawn verticle cut Narra with Tropical Mahogony inlays, top and bottom trim.
> 
> Multiple layers of self tinted stains, finished with multiple layers of tinted finishing waxes.
> 
> Before Finishing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After Finishing


Pictures don't show up, not even when the link is copied and pasted in the browser.


----------



## JDowns

Oops that should fix it.


----------



## Hoppy

JDowns, that is a superb stand! And, the inlays really make it unique. From the appearance of your workshop I can deduct that you have made a few things from wood before!

I wish the pictures in this thread could be made into a magazine article for "Fine Woodworking" magazine. They are really inspiring.


----------



## PDX-PLT

JDowns said:


> This is the latest that I've completed for a customer to match office interior. Footprint for tank is 6' x 2'.
> 
> Body is quartersawn verticle cut Narra with Tropical Mahogony inlays, top and bottom trim.


Nice job! Love the inlays.

Please tell me your shop isn't normally that clean.


----------



## JDowns

Shop is at my uncles house, and I'm fortunate he leaves town for 4 months out of the year, so I take possesion while he is gone :thumbsup:. Normally its kept pretty clean. But in this instance it was pre stain time so the shop gets a thorough cleaning to remove any dust. The central dust collector and air collection units do a good job of removing most of the waste. The two large Delta 1 micron air purifiers do a really good job of dust collection, and every major tool connects to the central ducts. So cleanup really is a breeze.

Thanks for the comments. The inlays made it interesting and less of a box. The stand will be for a 6x2x3 Paludarium project. Only bummer with this stand was ruining the wood with stains. But thats what comes with matching. This wood really deserved an aged Tung Oil finish with a couple coats of finishing wax to build up depth. :frown:

BTW I love the QSWO. The finish really makes the grain pop.


----------



## customdrumfinishes

heres another stand to add to my collection of diy stands lol, not done yet but you get the idea


----------



## Hoppy

That looks very nice, but does the stand have enough resistance to racking - collapsing under the weight if bumped hard? It looks like it relies on the leg joints at the top for all of the racking resistance.


----------



## curly01

*120 Gallon stand*

I finally got the tank on top of my stand this weekend.roud:


----------



## customdrumfinishes

Hoppy said:


> That looks very nice, but does the stand have enough resistance to racking - collapsing under the weight if bumped hard? It looks like it relies on the leg joints at the top for all of the racking resistance.


its pretty stirdy, the rack on the bottom helps give it alot of strength in the legs and keeps it from wiggling much at all. since the top is touching the wall and it barley moves if pushed on or bumped. it moves alot less than the pre fab stand i have a 29g on lol.


----------



## Hoppy

My latest tank stand, made in a different way: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/91877-57-gal-riparium-stand.html

This is an inexpensive way to make a furniture-like stand, using only hand tools, although a portable belt sander is very helpful at times. And, a power miter saw makes it easier, plus the doors almost require a router and a biscuit joiner is very useful for the doors too. But, no table saw, no router table, no need to make complicated joints, and no screws, nails, bolts, etc., except for mounting the hinges and end panels.


----------



## Sven

That stand look very good Hoppy! I love the look of the sides being skinned from the inside. Looks very sturdy.


----------



## Hoppy

Sven said:


> That stand look very good Hoppy! I love the look of the sides being skinned from the inside. Looks very sturdy.


It is certainly sturdy! But, an unanswered question is whether the horizontal top "beams" will gradually creep down from their weight, or from when the tank is there pushing down on them. MDF is notorious for creeping when a bending load is applied. Time will answer that question.


----------



## original kuhli

Damn Hoppy, Love the design. Excellent work!


----------



## smoq

Neat stand hoppy, are you planning to stain it?


----------



## Hoppy

smoq said:


> Neat stand hoppy, are you planning to stain it?


Uh....it is stained.:icon_frow I used a "golden pecan" stain, and the top coat is water based polyurethane, satin, by Behr, three coats. This is to complement the color of the dining table set that is very close to it, plus the "maple" laminate floor and nearby kitchen cabinets in maple.


----------



## customdrumfinishes

thats one over built stand there hoppy lol, im sure any car would be fine on it lol.

got my stand from above pics done finally, used this new vht wrinkle plus paint found at auto stores,
looks great for a spray can finish.
hood looks like a differnt color but its just the flash.

close up of wrinkle plus


----------



## dekstr

I made this stand for my 90g last year. It was my first attempt at wood-working and now I'm humbled by all the good stands shown on this thread

The stand didn't turn out as nice visually as I would have liked but it is functional and practical.


----------



## Scorpion

Nice tanks everyone!

Plenty of ideas. I'm starting to get the urge to build my own. I know I can do it. Got some of the tools needed and plus I can buy the ones I do not have. I love tools like I love fish.

If I got to finish a basement by myself, I sure can do this. I think it will be less headaches.


----------



## PlecoFanatic

$30 and an afternoon in the garage


----------



## Pejc

My DIY stand and light at http://http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/aquascaping/95821-la-vita-bella.html


----------



## Dragonstar

Sven said:


>


One more word, and the balloon gets it, see? 

LOL, anyway, here is my DIY stand. It is a Flexy Table I originally built to hold stereo equipment. I'm going to put the tank on the top, this was just to hold it:


----------



## Chad

Here is my 75 gal that i just finished. I need one more coat of poly on the back of the doors.


----------



## davocean

Cool thread, I love seeing other peoples builds.
Some really nice cabinets out there.
Here's a couple of mine I've built.


----------



## Hoppy

davocean said:


> Cool thread, I love seeing other peoples builds.
> Some really nice cabinets out there.
> Here's a couple of mine I've built.


How do you keep the fire under the tank from burning down the house? I can see the benefits for heating the water, but......:icon_mrgr

Seriously, what kind of glass is that??


----------



## davocean

Hoppy said:


> How do you keep the fire under the tank from burning down the house? I can see the benefits for heating the water, but......:icon_mrgr
> 
> Seriously, what kind of glass is that??


Too funny, if you only knew how many PM's I get on that cabinet asking how it works having a fireplace under my tank!lol
That's just some random stained glass I came across.
I wanted something that would glow from the refugium light underneath, but not outglow the tank.
I was looking for Amber color, and saw that black swirled stuff.
The fireplace look was purely accidental, but a pleasant surprise.


----------



## redman88




----------



## original kuhli

davocean said:


> Cool thread, I love seeing other peoples builds.
> Some really nice cabinets out there.
> Here's a couple of mine I've built.


What's the finish on the Walnut stand? Looks great!


----------



## davocean

Actually by the request of the person I built it for it was made from poplar, not my choice, not my pref.
The person I built it for wanted a special mix of stain for some reason, also not my pref.
She changed her mind on it so much I can't remember exactly, but I'm pretty sure it was minwax jacobean, and ebony mix, 3-1
I usually rec going w/ a stock color for easy touch ups later, dark walnut probably would have given similar results.


----------



## davocean

BTW, that pic was taken immediately after stain, flash picked up on still moist spots.
This was also before clear coat, which I highly recommend, and usually use minwax polyuerethane satin, really makes grain pop.


----------



## original kuhli

Thats funny, I love Poplar in its natural aged look...is green at first but turns a beautiful neutral colour. thanks!


----------



## Alpinist

I've got a simple metal frame stand that I'm using for my 33 Long (48", fits 55's too). I'm currently assembling a nice wooden structure around it to make it look like a wood stand. It will be removable in pieces, so it will essentially be a convertible stand. This weekend will see some good progress on it, I'll take some photos and post them.


----------



## davocean

original kuhli said:


> Thats funny, I love Poplar in its natural aged look...is green at first but turns a beautiful neutral colour. thanks!


Yes, I agree, there are some nice grains of poplar, but when I build cabinets for marine use I prefer those more resilient to moisture, so I lean towards mahogany, teak, sometimes koa.


----------



## davocean

Alpinist said:


> I've got a simple metal frame stand that I'm using for my 33 Long (48", fits 55's too). I'm currently assembling a nice wooden structure around it to make it look like a wood stand. It will be removable in pieces, so it will essentially be a convertible stand. This weekend will see some good progress on it, I'll take some photos and post them.


I actually do the same thing usually, even on wood stands, so you can just remove when you need to get to gear.
Mine are usually 3 sided facades.


----------



## Hoppy

Davocean, that is a really beautiful stand, and a method I have never even considered. It is like approaching the stand as a structural part of the house, and the skin as removable trim carpentry. Maybe if I ever again have a really big tank I will try that too.


----------



## davocean

Thank you, appreciate the compliment.
Sometimes the coolest things happen by accident, or in my case budget!lol
Like most everyone, I can't wait to get the tank cycling/rolling, but I threw my budget at gear, so I decided to do cheapo frame to get going, and add the pretty part later when budget was back up.
Plus this was my first tank w/ a sump, and took a bit for me to figure out all the gear, and I knew it would get messy, and needed full access.
Since then this is what I do for everyone I build for, and it keeps them off my back so I don't have to rush the finish work.
As long as that shiny glowy box is running and moving water, patience seems to hold!lol
Of course the wives usually can't wait for the pretty cabinet to hide the gear!


----------



## Sven

WOW, that is a sweet stand Davocean!!
And Dragonstar, I really like the industrial look of your stand.... great idea, never seen anything like it before.


----------



## davocean

Thanks again.
Here's that tank in groovy mood light date mode!lol
Ah yes, nice mood lighting, bottle of red wine, cozy company...smile on my face just thinkin about it!lol
Just make sure your girls are reef safe!


----------



## davocean

So, I just got my new 160g last night 60x24x26
Thought I'd show what I do for frames these days, just did this one today.



















My 67g solana I'm swapping livestock from


----------



## redman88

davocean said:


> Thanks again.
> Here's that tank in groovy mood light date mode!lol
> Ah yes, nice mood lighting, bottle of red wine, cozy company...smile on my face just thinkin about it!lol
> Just make sure your girls are reef safe!


i would like to know what your using for the mood lighting, the blue light that is i can come up with the ideas for the undercabinet light


----------



## davocean

That light is an Outer orbit Mh/T5 combo, and the blue is during the cool down period running T5 actinics only.
There's other ways of doing this though, like the powerbright LEDs(blues) or they have some new LED "stunner strips" by ecoxotic.
That fuge light was a home depot energy saver bulb(think 65k) and a couple under counter T5 cheapos.
LEDs or those rope LEDs would work great too.


----------



## samckitt

Here is mine designed in NX (3D CADD system) for a 75g tank. Soon to be replaced with a 110g tank.









Here is the real think:


----------



## intermediate_noob

davocean said:


> I actually do the same thing usually, even on wood stands, so you can just remove when you need to get to gear.
> Mine are usually 3 sided facades.


Your stand is awesome, thank you so much for sharing it with the forum!

Quick question on this one, do you attach the facade with anything or is it just set in place? Thanks again.


----------



## davocean

Mine have been free standing.
Originally I thought about using magnets, maybe a couple dowels to line up, but so far these have been balanced well enough that there was no need.


----------



## intermediate_noob

davocean said:


> Mine have been free standing.
> Originally I thought about using magnets, maybe a couple dowels to line up, but so far these have been balanced well enough that there was no need.


Thanks davocean, I appreciate it. I do not know how well this would align itself on carpet, but maybe if the stand was sitting on top of a piece of plywood or other "base" the skin of the stand could be set on top. Great ideas and great stands. Thank for sharing these with us.


----------



## davocean

Mine is on carpet as well.
I make the facade about 1/8" taller than frame, I'd rather it sit a hair high than low, and then I add this cap on top of that which hides uglies.
I made mine removable for cleaning, so it just sits on top(reefs get salt creep that needs to be cleaned)
A couple guide dowels and maybe even magnets inset in frame might help you too.
This is removable cap.


----------



## intermediate_noob

davocean said:


> Mine is on carpet as well.
> I make the facade about 1/8" taller than frame, I'd rather it sit a hair high than low, and then I add this cap on top of that which hides uglies.
> I made mine removable for cleaning, so it just sits on top(reefs get salt creep that needs to be cleaned)
> A couple guide dowels and maybe even magnets inset in frame might help you too.
> This is removable cap.


So the cap just sits on the top, snugly against the tank? I saw the pics of the shell with the cap on it but assumed it was fastened there. Thanks for taking us through this as it is surely a new (to me at least) way of thinking regarding building a DIY stand.


----------



## Hendy8888

*120 Gal Stand*

Pics of my 120 Gal DIY Stand


----------



## fishyjoe24

brion0 said:


> I made this stand, the front panel comes out so nothing blocks access under the stand. Also saved a few dollars on hinges an handles.


what light is that? and how did you get the wood to stay on it. that give me ideals! :smile:


----------



## Alpinist

I just finished converting an old 48" angle-iron stand I've had for ever. It's utilitarian, but the look of a plain metal skeleton gets a bit old after awhile. 

So I thought of a way to convert it to a wood stand, while still being able to switch back any time I needed to. 

Here's what it looked like before:












I used oak veneer plywood for the ends, poplar for the tops of the front, solid oak for the vertical pieces, pine for the doors, and hemlock for the trim. The back-panel was the hardest part because I hadn't realized the 24x48 piece of plywood wouldn't cover the opening like I'd planned. Some improvisation was required, but it turned out pretty decent. 

Here's a during:











Here's an after:











With the door's open. (First experience with european hinges; i love them). Haven't finalized cord management procedures yet. Will be adding CO2 next month so it's still up in the air.













For the method of attachment, each panel (front, two ends) is placed just right by some 1x1 guide pieces which sit inside the corner uprights on the metal stand. This centers and elevates the panels into the right place every time. The four corners of each panel are then clipped into the metal stands (no need to drill holes in the metal) with screen window clips. The key to cinching them down and taking out the slack was using the right amount of washers. One problem I ran into frequently was that the metal stand was not perfectly square or vertical, so other improvisations were needed from time to time. Another bonus, I'd paid for this wood months ago in anticipation of another project (router table), but never got around to using it. Some hardware, trim, and the wood for the doors was all I really needed to lay out. 

This would take me less than two minutes to break down back into the metal stand.

Here's the attachment clips I spoke of:


----------



## [email protected]

Good job. Well thought out.


----------



## Hoppy

That looks very good, and it removes the wood from the need for it to hold up that tank.


----------



## grouper therapy

*padauk*

I made this one for a 90 gallon cube . The wood is Padauk wood and the color is the wood's natural color.


----------



## [email protected]

That sound you thought you heard is dozens of jaws dropping in amazement.


----------



## non_compliance

[email protected] said:


> That sound you thought you heard is dozens of jaws dropping in amazement.


 
amen to that.... that thing is amazing!!!


----------



## Hoppy

Wow! Beautiful, and a design I don't recall seeing before.


----------



## grouper therapy

Thanks guys 
There is an x-frame underneath that runs from corner to corner to support the weight of the tank. The stand is actually made in three pieces to allow it to be set up in rooms with 30" or less door openings.


----------



## HEINEKEN357

Here's mine for my 24g aquapod its 3/4 ply and black formica all Blacked out roud:


----------



## Dollface

ADA style stand with maple wood veneer. For a 5.5 gallon tank with some extra depth in the back to allow for a zoomed filter to sit behind the tank.


----------



## VOYTEK333

and this is what's holding it =]


----------



## Hoppy

Voytek and Dollface, those are very elegant looking, simple stands. It just shows how beautiful a basic simple stand can be with care in building and finishing it. Of course, the steel skeleton is unique and not at all simple, but the appearance of the finished stand totally hides that part, and that appearance can be duplicated using just plywood, with enough care.


----------



## VOYTEK333

Hoppy said:


> Voytek and Dollface, those are very elegant looking, simple stands. It just shows how beautiful a basic simple stand can be with care in building and finishing it. Of course, the steel skeleton is unique and not at all simple, but the appearance of the finished stand totally hides that part, and that appearance can be duplicated using just plywood, with enough care.



thanks Hoppy =)

I didn't know what's going to go over the skeleton, and metal angle-lines was what I had + working in a place where there is welding involved on top of me being paranoid about the structure to be able to support all that weight ( the tank is 42x31x20 ) made me go with that design =)

and yeah, I think that the less you try the better the sand comes out ( I mean, no trying to make anything fancy, just keep that wood, plain, non glossy coats etc and all of it is just my opinion =] )


----------



## tzen

Here is the stand I made for my 75g paludarium. It is made of maple plywood with solid maple trim, and the style of the trim matches the maple furniture in the room. I did no engineering calculations whatsoever, but 3/4" plywood is pretty strong stuff, and there will only be 20 or so gallons of H20 in there, plus the weight of the viv. I probably should have cleaned off the sawdust before snapping the pictures.



















The finish is about 3 coats of tung oil and about 3 of wipe-on poly. The canopy is just a simple 4-sided box with a support board in the middle that the lights are attached to. There is also a box for the back lights for the water; they are aimed at an internal polished aluminum reflector.


----------



## Hoppy

tzen said:


> Here is the stand I made for my 75g paludarium. It is made of maple plywood with solid maple trim, and the style of the trim matches the maple furniture in the room. I did no engineering calculations whatsoever, but 3/4" plywood is pretty strong stuff, and there will only be 20 or so gallons of H20 in there, plus the weight of the viv. I probably should have cleaned off the sawdust before snapping the pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The finish is about 3 coats of tung oil and about 3 of wipe-on poly. The canopy is just a simple 4-sided box with a support board in the middle that the lights are attached to. There is also a box for the back lights for the water; they are aimed at an internal polished aluminum reflector.


That is a great job of fitting the door, and keeping the grain matched so well. And, an oil finish like that is supposed to be one of the best ways to make the chatoyance in maple stand out. Lots more work, but worth the effort.


----------



## tzen

Thanks, Hoppy. To cut out the door, I just used a circular saw that I plunged in for each cut, and finished the corner cuts with a hand saw. It would have been easy to screw it up. I have a 3-year old, so there is the lock.
Good word there, too.


----------



## Regloh

tzen said:


>


Very cool stand... Do I see a door switch there, that automatically turns on the lights in the cabinet, when the door is opened?

Thumbsup on the lock. I have a 3yo and an 8mo. The standard childlock thingys do not keep the 3 year old out of there anymore... I will have to come up with something like a lock to retrofit my stand...


----------



## !shadow!

malaybiswas and dantra's tank stands take my pick so simple yet elegant. i'm really a big fan of the ada style but alot of the craftmanship such as jdowns is really inspiring. great job on all the tanks guys especially on the guys who still have yet to build a diy stand such as myself this thread just gave me tons of ideas.


----------



## BeachBum2012

Here is the start of a stand I'm building for a 60g hex tank right now. The old stand died and hex stands are darn expensive. Well, here's what we have so far...









Build two of these. One for the top and one for the bottom.









Close up of the pocket screws. Added some staples in there for a little extra too.









Attaching the sides to the base









My helper (my brother) after getting the base attached.









Just waiting for paint and a door.

So far I'm very pleased with the stand. Three of us can stand on it and it doesn't move a bit. I'll post a few more pictures when its done. A few more coats of paint, waterproofing and hardware and we're good.


----------



## Lotto

How many times has this stand been done before? Heh, anyways here's my version of the ADA style aquarium stand.



















Lots of formica chipping going on but it's hard to see from these photos.


----------



## BeachBum2012

Here is the finished product as promised.


----------



## alanzhao

*My first ever barebone stand*

This is my first wood work project. I managed to finished it within 2 hours. I am so proud of myself:bounce: The footprint is for 55G, size 48x24x15.


----------



## naX

Previously a 75g planted, then converted to a gecko terrarium (as the picture shows) and just recently converted back to a aquarium (Texas native, and thus why I have come back to PT). WAY overbuilt and all done with hand tools (no power saw, driver, or sander). Now that I'm big in woodworking and have all the power tools, I'm thinking of starting a new one and making it much better. 

P.S. - Minwax Polyshades SUCK. Had to refinish it as a result, thus my stain coverage isn't up to par with my liking. Oh well.


----------



## alang

OK, I can finally add to this thread.


----------



## Scorpion

alang said:


> OK, I can finally add to this thread.



show off! :smile: I like the finish. How many coats?


----------



## alang

Scorpion said:


> show off! :smile: I like the finish. How many coats?


lol, one coat of maple stain, and two coats of satin finish. That's it. It pays to get the good stuff.


----------



## Im2Nelson4u

My DIY ADA style stand

http://socalaquascapers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5195


----------



## jwm5

Here are pics from my first stand, built last year, the tank (55gallon) has been changed a lot... in first pics it was brand new and all artificial plants:icon_roll could have saved some money if I had known I would shortly change over to all live plants. Oh well, live and learn...

the stairs were refinished shortly before the tank went in, in the process of refinishing them I reinforced the structure under the stairs on the tank side to accommodate the extra weight. Basically it was previously dead space and a 55 gallon width was perfect to fit against the wall and only extended to the side of the door frame, so essentially it does not block the normal walk way on the stairs at all. Stand is completely removable if/when it would need to be and the stairs would be undamaged.


----------



## jargonchipmunk

^ ummm... wow? That's a fantastic use of space and very ingenious way to modify the normal design for cabinets, etc. Very well done!


----------



## Gatekeeper

Very impressive! I must say, that is the best use of stairs I have seen in a while. LOL.


----------



## Hoppy

That stair step cabinet is really ingenious. And, a 55 gallon tank is so narrow in front to back depth that it is a perfect tank for that use too. Congratulations - after you think you have seen everything, along comes a really new idea!


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## jwm5

Copied from my Tank journal... 30g X High...

24 x 12 foot print is easy enough and not too much weight to worry about even if filled to the top it would only be about 300lbs. For some reason I liked the idea of a stand on wheels. If I needed to move the tank, it could be drained a little and the stand simply rolled to its new location in the room, so as a challenge I decided to put the stand on wheels. The wheels are 2.5" heavy duty and can each withstand 175lbs so with all four they can hold 700lbs more than enough for my 20 gallons of water and equipment.

Being someone that prefers overbuilt rather than under, plus the added wheel issue, structure and resistance to flexing was key = 2x4's and 3/4" plywood.

































^ the holes on back are for wiring / plumbing

I had two old cabinet doors that were saved for an unknown project (being a packrat can help  ) Front panel with doors, doors were a specific size I couldn't change that, thats why they are relatively short, but they work. 

















Added two interior shelves
















^ if you notice the blocks under the 2x4's these are there because the bolts for the wheels were 1" the plywood was 3/4" this was my solution.

Trim attached and holes patched









Sanded, primed, ready for paint









Painted








Closeup of wheel









Inside shots


----------



## CL

Very nice stands, once again. I decided to give this thread a read before I got out to buy the materials for the stand I will be making tomorrow. What a convenient tool for getting some inspiration, this thread has been. :thumbsup:


----------



## msnikkistar

I need some darn power tools!:angryfire:

Guess I am going to have to con the guys at my work (I work at a mill called Windsor Mill that produces WindsorOne), to give me some free molding, wood, and etc...

Wonder if they will cut it down for me too. I am afraid of table saws....


----------



## majstor76

This is my stand, in first life it was desk but i managed to transform it into stand


----------



## ShrimpMan

I was tires of the clean modern look and went for an old beat up look....
Made with reclaimed wood.
Hope you guys enjoy, if you want more pics I'll post more


----------



## svavrek

Built this when we moved to our new house, right now I have yet to finish the doors because I was plumbing underneath for the tank setup (125g planted) and will get the doors done this week but here's the stand. It's framed w/ 2x6's and supported internally by 2x4's, strong enough to hold 6-7k lbs. Hope you enjoy!


----------



## CL

Cost was just under $20. Took ~20 minutes to make.


----------



## [email protected]

I like the little houses for the critters.


----------



## CL

For a project coming soon (120P this fall most likely) 
Inspired by kimcadmus' 90P stand 
























I have yet to attach the doors or stain. Cost me $58 for the four 4'x4' 3/4 inch ply sheets. Used plenty of glue with screws for strength. Should get closer to finishing the stand tomorrow.


----------



## CL

More progress today. I got the doors mounted. Just need to figure out what handles to get. Maybe I can figure something out that wouldn't actually involve any "handles" per se..
(ignore the dog's hamburger toy in the top left :hihi








I'm staining tomorrow. I'm a little worried about this part. Would hate to mess something up. Would you guys recommend using a rag, or brush?


----------



## svavrek

Both work nicely, a rag usually offers more even covering I think but I've always used brushes.


----------



## divy

My ADA style stand in gloss black and DIY hood


----------



## Hoppy

CL said:


> More progress today. I got the doors mounted. Just need to figure out what handles to get. Maybe I can figure something out that wouldn't actually involve any "handles" per se..
> (ignore the dog's hamburger toy in the top left :hihi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm staining tomorrow. I'm a little worried about this part. Would hate to mess something up. Would you guys recommend using a rag, or brush?


I wouldn't try staining it, because of the wild grain in the plywood, but if you want to try it, be sure to apply a pre-stain conditioner first, to even out the stain color as best you can. I prefer a brush when staining, but I don't like cleaning it, so I usually just use cloth. The foam, disposable "brushes" work pretty good with stain though.

That is a very good woodworking job! One of the best I have seen.


----------



## xmas_one

Here's one I made from shipping scraps from my gf's work and some chipboard I found in the alley..


----------



## CL

Hoppy said:


> I wouldn't try staining it, because of the wild grain in the plywood, but if you want to try it, be sure to apply a pre-stain conditioner first, to even out the stain color as best you can. I prefer a brush when staining, but I don't like cleaning it, so I usually just use cloth. The foam, disposable "brushes" work pretty good with stain though.
> 
> That is a very good woodworking job! One of the best I have seen.


Thanks, Hoppy! It really means a lot. Considering the only power tool I have is a drill, sanding was a huge pain (literally). This is the first time that I've had lowes cut the wood for me, and the cuts hadn't been off by a quarter inch or so. I got cabot pre-stain conditioner, as well as cabot dark walnut stain. I had never heard of cabot, but it was what they had at lowes, and was $11/ quart. I'm testing it out on some scraps right now to see how it goes. I have a feeling that the grain won't look right with the stain... I wanted to see the exposed edges on the plywood, but staining it might not work like you mentioned. What would you do?


xmas_one said:


> Here's one I made from shipping scraps from my gf's work and some chipboard I found in the alley..


That looks great. Use enough screws? :hihi: I love how you staggered the planks. The stain is great, too.


----------



## Hoppy

CL said:


> .....I got cabot pre-stain conditioner, as well as cabot dark walnut stain. I had never heard of cabot, but it was what they had at lowes, and was $11/ quart. I'm testing it out on some scraps right now to see how it goes. I have a feeling that the grain won't look right with the stain... I wanted to see the exposed edges on the plywood, but staining it might not work like you mentioned. What would you do?.....


I think plywood like that looks best painted a solid color. It isn't easy to get a nice smooth even coat on plywood, but if you use a good sealer coat first it is easier. My favorite sealer coat is one of the shellac based materials, either white for painted, or clear for clear coated. Then sand with very fine sandpaper before applying a coat of paint, and between coats of paint, until you get it to look good.

Another "finish" is gluing on a plastic laminate, but that can be even harder to do well, especially without a router.


----------



## MlDukes

DUKES 55g - My custom stand - See 55g journal for more pics.


----------



## CL

Hoppy said:


> I think plywood like that looks best painted a solid color. It isn't easy to get a nice smooth even coat on plywood, but if you use a good sealer coat first it is easier. My favorite sealer coat is one of the shellac based materials, either white for painted, or clear for clear coated. Then sand with very fine sandpaper before applying a coat of paint, and between coats of paint, until you get it to look good.
> 
> Another "finish" is gluing on a plastic laminate, but that can be even harder to do well, especially without a router.


If the stain doesn't turn out right, would it be possible to sand it a bit, then just paint over that, or would it not look right?


----------



## [email protected]

After they dry some stains will take paint just fine. Some won't. 
Given that the cabinet is plywood with varying grain hardness, if you paint, apply a good primer/sealer first. Lightly sand that, then paint. 
For both primer and paint I suggest using those - roughly - one inch foam rollers. Paint goes on really well and dries smoothly.


----------



## CL

[email protected] said:


> After they dry some stains will take paint just fine. Some won't.
> Given that the cabinet is plywood with varying grain hardness, if you paint, apply a good primer/sealer first. Lightly sand that, then paint.
> For both primer and paint I suggest using those - roughly - one inch foam rollers. Paint goes on really well and dries smoothly.


Thanks for the tip! If I do decide to paint, I will definitely want a smooth finish and go for a roller. :thumbsup:

The stain test went pretty good. I'll upload a picture here in a few.


----------



## CL

Here's some pics of the practice piece that I did today. I put on the conditioner, let it sit for about 2.5 minutes, then lightly wiped it off and wiped a light coat on top of that before putting the stain on and letting that sit for about 5 minutes before wiping.
















Turned out pretty good, I think.


----------



## Hoppy

It looks pretty good! If you like the appearance it looks perfect! It's really mostly about pleasing yourself.


----------



## CL

Sweet. Hopefully the whole stand will turn out well tomorrow. I should stain it one side at a time to prevent it from drying while I'm working, right? I know to do a whole side at once, otherwise the stain might not match.
Thanks again for all of the help


----------



## xmas_one

Looks great CL!


----------



## malaybiswas

I am planning to make a 72" 100g stand (thread coming soon) and this sticky is immensely helpful to consider so many interesting and brilliant constructions. So many ideas to know and use from in part or full. 

Kudos to Hoppy for proposing sticky on this one (and everybody else who voted).


----------



## CL

Here's a miniature ADA stand that I made from scraps for my mini m to elevate it closer to eye level while on the counter. 
















It was good practice for staining. I'll do the real thing tomorrow on my big stand


----------



## CL

Got the tank on the stand


----------



## jwm5

^ mini stand looks good. general tip, if you are staining and dont want to see the ends of the plywood, you can buy 3/4" iron on veneer that will cover the edges and make it look like solid wood. Very easy to work with and works great.


----------



## jinx©

CL, at first glance that looks like it could be a huge tank...lol...Conditioner was a good call on the plywood. Plywood and pine in general just has a nasty habit of not staining evenly and can end up looking blotchy sometimes.

I've been using gel stains a lot lately on other projects and I'm starting to like the stuff. You can pretty much use it on anything, and there's a lot of techniques you can do after it's applied. (Like gel staining over paint, then combing in a wood grain etc.) Pretty cool stuff.


----------



## Mistyjr

Gosh! All these stands are nice.. I wish my hubby can build.


----------



## [email protected]

Mistyjr said:


> Gosh! All these stands are nice.. I wish my hubby can build.


Keep in mind some of the DIY stand makers that have pictures here are hobby level cabinet makers or professional carpenters. One or two appear to be a professional furniture makers. 

It may be a lot of things, but probably not that he - or you - can't. Unless there are physical issues, you can. Patience and research (The New Yankee Workshop isn't the best show for amateur tips) will help a lot. 
Here is a site run by a woman who couldn't - until she did. 
http://www.knock-offwood.com/ 

If cutting is the issue, find a store or lumber yard that will cut for you - on a calm day. Saturday at 11:30 AM (if they close at noon) isn't the time for patience at a lumber yard or home improvement center. Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday at 2:00 PM might be perfect. 

2x4s, some sand paper, a drill and bit, bolts, washers, and nuts is the simplest wood and fasteners for a beginner. Ok, you'll need a wrench too. 
Simple and strong. Painted or stained, a simple stand can look great. 

Painted cement blocks can look good too, by the way. Solid 4x8x16 inch decorative cement blocks painted black, stacked, and topped by a double layer of well painted plywood can be very dramatic and can't be much simpler.


----------



## Mistyjr

[email protected] said:


> Keep in mind some of the DIY stand makers that have pictures here are hobby level cabinet makers or professional carpenters. One or two appear to be a professional furniture makers.
> 
> It may be a lot of things, but probably not that he - or you - can't. Unless there are physical issues, you can. Patience and research (The New Yankee Workshop isn't the best show for amateur tips) will help a lot.
> Here is a site run by a woman who couldn't - until she did.
> http://www.knock-offwood.com/
> 
> If cutting is the issue, find a store or lumber yard that will cut for you - on a calm day. Saturday at 11:30 AM (if they close at noon) isn't the time for patience at a lumber yard or home improvement center. Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday at 2:00 PM might be perfect.
> 
> 2x4s, some sand paper, a drill and bit, bolts, washers, and nuts is the simplest wood and fasteners for a beginner. Ok, you'll need a wrench too.
> Simple and strong. Painted or stained, a simple stand can look great.
> 
> Painted cement blocks can look good too, by the way. Solid 4x8x16 inch decorative cement blocks painted black, stacked, and topped by a double layer of well painted plywood can be very dramatic and can't be much simpler.


lol.. I mean he can build just not straight. He built me 5 Rabbit cages and I will say not straight but nice... hehe


----------



## houstonhobby

> I wish my hubby can build.


If you read Fine Woodworking, many of the best furniture builders are women. Don't let hubby's skills hold you back.


----------



## CL

Ok guys, I've got another question. Because I feel like I got a bit sloppy with the glue on my stand, I feel like it would just be better to paint it (I never got around to staining it). I will be using a roller for a smooth finish. The wood is sanded pretty good, so you can barely feel the grain (if you can feel it at all). What paint would you all recommend? I don't want something thin like spraypaint because it would make the grain stand out (I think?) Any ideas about what I should use to give me a smooth finish, and as close to a seamless look as possible?


----------



## Hoppy

CL said:


> Ok guys, I've got another question. Because I feel like I got a bit sloppy with the glue on my stand, I feel like it would just be better to paint it (I never got around to staining it). I will be using a roller for a smooth finish. The wood is sanded pretty good, so you can barely feel the grain (if you can feel it at all). What paint would you all recommend? I don't want something thin like spraypaint because it would make the grain stand out (I think?) Any ideas about what I should use to give me a smooth finish, and as close to a seamless look as possible?


Glossy finishes always show every flaw that is in the wood. Getting a perfect glossy finish is an art, and not worth the effort in my opinion. The less glossy the easier the finish is to use. I suggest sticking to matte finish paints. In general the thinner the coats, and the more coats you use, the better it ends up looking. If you lightly sand between coats, to get back to a smooth surface each time, that helps a lot too. Sprayed finishes are generally the smoothest, but it takes skill to do that. A roller is probably the next best for smoothness. Fast drying paints are best for avoiding dust specks.


----------



## CL

Thanks for the tips, Hoppy! I feel much more comfortable painting. Staining pine plywood makes me feel like I have to hurry before anything dries and make sure I'm putting the right amount of conditioner and stain on everything without letting things soak in too much or too little etc. It's just too stressful for me :hihi:


----------



## [email protected]

If you don't want the grain to show through, use a good primer first. For smooth even coats, use a foam roller.


----------



## CL

Foam Roller
2 coats of Zinsser 1-2-3 Primer
~3 Coats of Sherwin Williams 6988 Bohemian Black Interior Matte Latex Paint
Still need to buy handles for the doors

You can see the access hole I drilled for filter tubes. Two on each side








Vertigo Picture:








Pics aren't 100% Accurate
Actual Color 








Thanks for all of the help guys!


----------



## intermediate_noob

CL said:


> Foam Roller
> 2 coats of Zinsser 1-2-3 Primer
> ~3 Coats of Sherwin Williams 6988 Bohemian Black Interior Matte Latex Paint
> Still need to buy handles for the doors
> 
> You can see the access hole I drilled for filter tubes. Two on each side
> 
> Thanks for all of the help guys!


This stand looks GREAT! What type of hinges did you use?


----------



## CL

To use the hinges I needed, I would've needed to buy a $15 drill bit, so I just used 4 $1 magnets on each door. I may do hinges later down the road, but probably not.


----------



## intermediate_noob

CL said:


> To use the hinges I needed, I would've needed to buy a $15 drill bit, so I just used 4 $1 magnets on each door. I may do hinges later down the road, but probably not.


How do you get the doors out? I saw what looks to be hinges on the left door, but are those the magnets?

Thanks for the responses, and again congrats on the gorgeous stand.


----------



## twizzle

rbarn said:


> ROFL, I just cut a huge hole in the wall behind all that mess to
> make even more room for a chiller.
> 
> Will make a little "pocket" that extends into the garage a little.
> Sheet rock and paint it all out. Should look nice. With the chiller
> venting its hot air into the garage and recessed into the wall.
> 
> 
> Good thing I'm already divorced, or my wife would kill me.
> 
> LOL I just spat out my coffee all over my keyboard LOL.


----------



## CL

intermediate_noob said:


> How do you get the doors out? I saw what looks to be hinges on the left door, but are those the magnets?
> 
> Thanks for the responses, and again congrats on the gorgeous stand.


The doors just pop out like a magnet off of the fridge. There's a little space where you can fit your fingers to pull. Handles will make it a lot easier


----------



## xmas_one

CL said:


> The doors just pop out like a magnet off of the fridge. There's a little space where you can fit your fingers to pull. Handles will make it a lot easier


You can keep that clean look (no handles) if you decide to go with touch latches..









I used a single touch latch on mine with euro hinges, and it works great..


----------



## Vincebus

Really like this thread, I just started the build on my 55 stand. It's definatley sturdy and shouldn't have any issues. roud: Not filling the tank full since it's going to be a vivarium for my Anoles, and future additions to the population. Thinking of designing a raised landscape for some water underground maybe a waterfall down the road. Glued and screwed all joints. Dimentions are 50x15.







Side view...


----------



## the_deeb

I've made a couple

Here's my old DIY 90g wide setup (both the tank and stand were DIY).


----------



## screename

Acrylic, triple beveled on every edge, center brace for my two ADA mini-M
Sorry for crappy pic


----------



## CL

A superjet? Really?

I hate you :biggrin:


----------



## Hoppy

screename said:


> Acrylic, triple beveled on every edge, center brace for my two ADA mini-M
> Sorry for crappy pic


Now that is a truly different design for a stand! I'm not sure I like it, and I don't think it would work with a much bigger tank - acrylic will slowly creep under a load, but it is very interesting.


----------



## BichirAddict

Does this count?
75 Gallon In Wall
















pictures are on different computer no working with this one just follow link.
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=277526


----------



## AdrienDeLaChicago

Wow, you guys are amazing. What beautiful stands you all have made. I personally like the really modern simplistic styles of those of you that have posted pics. I simply prefer that style. But overall very fine looking craftsmanship.

This is mine. It is more of an experiment and I will do some more work to it later. I was nervous about making a stand that measures nearly 8ft tall. It is a high rise for my betta boys. I have limited space and decided to take advantage of one bare wall that I thought would be perfect for my boys. Please excuse all the wiring and disarray. I drilled walls into the hole about three inches in diameter that will house all the wiring. The shelf is attached to the wall and does not move whatsoever. I was able to climb on up it and hang from it and it does not move. It is very sturdy. I basically used 2x4's and doubled them between the shelves and the shelves themselves are 2x10's. It is very simple and clean. Nothing like some of the beautiful work I have seen here.

I am waiting on the filters to arrive and then I will finish all the tanks and they will be filled with a forest of plants, a betta, ghost shrimp and possibly other compatible critters.

The bottom tank sits on the floor so this shelf structure only supports four 10 gallon tanks.

005 by adrienbcaldwell, on Flickr

006 by adrienbcaldwell, on Flickr

I left the sides open because I can enjoy the view of the tanks from the side as well. I live in a small studio so working "vertically" was a way for me to create more for myself. When I 'grow up' and can have a bigger home I am going to get a big boy tank like some of you and upgrade. :red_mouth


----------



## ridewake210

My first and not my last DIY stand. 
Getting ready to build another one for a 20L


----------



## rickztahone

INSPIRATION AT LAST! thanks everyone:biggrin:


----------



## PinoyBoy

Wow, a vast majority of you guys should be making stands for money. Just wondering, doesn't the canopy put alot of stress on the tank rim?


----------



## [email protected]

PinoyBoy said:


> Wow, a vast majority of you guys should be making stands for money. Just wondering, doesn't the canopy put alot of stress on the tank rim?


Only when you drop it while putting it back in place. You do need to design a canopy so the weight is distributed as evenly as you can and still get into the tank as needed. Thin or thinner wood with creative use of cleats and glue helps.


----------



## dzydvl

I apologize for the messy area, we just moved into our new house. Here's some pictures of the rough construction of my stand. I still have to complete the finish work, and staining, but you get the idea. I know it's overkill, but I used 4x4 to make the frame, and 2x4's to make the bracing. Right now I have a 125 gallon tank on it, but I built it large enough to support a 210.


----------



## dzydvl

AdrienDeLaChicago said:


> Wow, you guys are amazing. What beautiful stands you all have made. I personally like the really modern simplistic styles of those of you that have posted pics. I simply prefer that style. But overall very fine looking craftsmanship.
> 
> This is mine. It is more of an experiment and I will do some more work to it later. I was nervous about making a stand that measures nearly 8ft tall. It is a high rise for my betta boys. I have limited space and decided to take advantage of one bare wall that I thought would be perfect for my boys. Please excuse all the wiring and disarray. I drilled walls into the hole about three inches in diameter that will house all the wiring. The shelf is attached to the wall and does not move whatsoever. I was able to climb on up it and hang from it and it does not move. It is very sturdy. I basically used 2x4's and doubled them between the shelves and the shelves themselves are 2x10's. It is very simple and clean. Nothing like some of the beautiful work I have seen here.
> 
> I am waiting on the filters to arrive and then I will finish all the tanks and they will be filled with a forest of plants, a betta, ghost shrimp and possibly other compatible critters.
> 
> The bottom tank sits on the floor so this shelf structure only supports four 10 gallon tanks.
> 
> 005 by adrienbcaldwell, on Flickr
> 
> 006 by adrienbcaldwell, on Flickr
> 
> I left the sides open because I can enjoy the view of the tanks from the side as well. I live in a small studio so working "vertically" was a way for me to create more for myself. When I 'grow up' and can have a bigger home I am going to get a big boy tank like some of you and upgrade. :red_mouth


I'm planning on doing something similiar for my 29 and 20 gallon tanks. I'm also planning on building 2 shelves into it for magazines and books.


----------



## AdrienDeLaChicago

dzydvl said:


> I'm planning on doing something similiar for my 29 and 20 gallon tanks. I'm also planning on building 2 shelves into it for magazines and books.



How similar? Are you saying that you will have 29 gallon tanks nearly 7ft off of the floor? I will not deny that I am a bit nervous with a 10 gallon up that high. I wanna see it when you are done please. :thumbsup:


----------



## dzydvl

AdrienDeLaChicago said:


> How similar? Are you saying that you will have 29 gallon tanks nearly 7ft off of the floor? I will not deny that I am a bit nervous with a 10 gallon up that high. I wanna see it when you are done please. :thumbsup:


Whoops I should qualify that, lol... The tanks will be towards the bottom of the stand. and the bookshelves on top. The highest the tanks will be off the ground is 4-5 feet.


----------



## ridewake210

Just built this today in about 2 hours. 
Its not pretty, i used nothing but scrap wood i had laying around. 

Dimensions are 32w x 15d x 30"t 













This one is just going to get primered and spray painted black.


----------



## Baadboy11

Guess I'll add mine!









Homemade stand and homemade light....ps the bottom shelf doesn't bow, its just an odd angle.


----------



## Fish Whisperer

Here's mine. I've always liked the look of black with natural wood. Though, I didn't actually USE wood, I used cheapo fake trim. 

















I didn't put doors on it because I was going to put a chair on front of it anyway.


----------



## intermediate_noob

I really like the black with the natural wood, what did you use for the black? Is it just painted plywood or something else?


----------



## Fish Whisperer

intermediate_noob said:


> I really like the black with the natural wood, what did you use for the black? Is it just painted plywood or something else?


It's just painted plywood.


----------



## ridewake210

All that work and you hide it with the chair.


----------



## Fish Whisperer

ridewake210 said:


> All that work and you hide it with the chair.


Believe me, it won't be hidden long. The wife can't leave the furniture in place for more than a month without "improving" the layout.


----------



## Karazu

Signed up today and wanted to post my stand.. Built it with scrap wood i found at work and at home.


----------



## ridewake210

What is that? a 20-30g? 
Looks pretty good for scrap wood


----------



## Karazu

Its a 63g. And thx


----------



## Jowlz

Here's mine. The unit is actually 3 separate units. Each unit was built using a floating top (simple leveling). Camera on its way out.


----------



## ReefkprZ

my 75g stand with fully removable door, sorry my camera is broke so I had to dig up old pictures.
the stand








best shot I could find with door off.


----------



## jotape65

Here is the stand for my 40G breeder. Some construction details here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/jotape65/40GTankStand


----------



## tzen

That is really solid work, Jaime! Great design, great construction. How much do you think your materials cost?


----------



## jotape65

Thanks, it was a fun project. Oak wood was about $120, hardware and glass was about $50.


----------



## tbonedeluxe

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/1066726-post223.html
What an awesome idea! Your tank looks really sharp too.
Too Cool.


----------



## glassbird

My DIY stand for my 75 gallon has a feature that no one else seems to have added...a seating area for cats. I kid thee not. 










As an added bonus, someday when I go for a longer tank all I need to do is add additional legs under the shelf and enclose them. (The fish in the tank on the floor are my pond fish. They come in for the winters, and since this picture was taken they have graduated to a 100 gallon Rubbermaid tub in the basement.)


----------



## ridewake210

Thats pretty cool, i need to post up a recent picture of my 90 gallon with my DIY stand. 


I built a stand for my 20L awhile back and still havent
used the aquarium itself.


----------



## snafuspyramid

This is the first thing I've ever built out of wood. In fact it's the first thing I've ever built, period. Anyone who knows anything about woodwork will appreciate that this was, to put it mildly, something of a learning curve.

I designed the whole thing about six times on 3D imaging software, had a few engineering student friends look over the designs for me, and went with this one.

I did the entire thing with cheap hand tools, except for the router. It's a construction pine frame with a skin of dressed pine and some Australian softwood I can't remember. 

I'm happy to distribute the detailed plans, with all exact measurements etc. if anyone else is silly enough. All the materials are readily available and cheap (except the stain). A word of warning though; those nasty pre-made MDF jobs are still cheaper. This was quite a project.


----------



## rickztahone

nice work! i wish i would have thought of doing it 3D first. I just winged the whole thing, lol.


----------



## mhossom

Here is a shot of my DIY stand. There are a few pics of the equipment in the Journals forum.


----------



## kingfisherfleshy

Wow, some of you guys are professional grade!

Cabinetry is hard, and I didnt realize that till my first stand attempt...no new pictures yet, but this is the build so far on my brothers blog. 

Thanks for the views, (somewhat ashamed to show this in the company of such greatness!) 

http://www.thebruler.com/2010/12/aquarium-stand.html


----------



## stuart

Here is a pic of mine, just got done with it. It is part of my journal on another local forum.


----------



## rickztahone

i just finished my stands after a looong time. sry for all the pics but it shows both stands. one is for a 55 and the smaller one with no canopy (the tanks are rimless) are for 2 10's. pics:









before cutting doors









back of the 55 stand









doors cut









molding installed

















both painted


















now i just need to plant it


----------



## Gatekeeper

Those look great Rick. Looks like you have a little assembly line of them going there. Very nice.


----------



## rickztahone

Gatekeeper said:


> Those look great Rick. Looks like you have a little assembly line of them going there. Very nice.


lol. the 125 in the background is a similar stand but made out of cheap plywood. thx for the compliment.


----------



## skerzfan

*90 Gallon Stand*

There are some awesome stands in this thread. I'll be thinking how I can incorporate some of the designs into future projects. Here's my first attempt at a stand and canopy for a soon to be planted 90 gallon. Pictures are of the stand, unfinished canopy, and stand with canopy resting on top (missing the tank).


----------



## Scorpion

Rick,

tell me about your background.

The more I am looking at this thread, the more I am thinking of doing my own stand/canopy. These things are such a rip off at the LFS. I'd figured that if I can finish a 1200 sq ft basement, I can do this right?


----------



## HX67

Not too fond of that ol' hardwood feel, here's the stand I made for a 250 g tank at the shop:


----------



## rickztahone

Scorpion said:


> Rick,
> 
> tell me about your background.
> 
> The more I am looking at this thread, the more I am thinking of doing my own stand/canopy. These things are such a rip off at the LFS. I'd figured that if I can finish a 1200 sq ft basement, I can do this right?


the background is a slim line background that really doesn't go into the tank too much which is great! at it's thickest point it sticks out about 1 1/2". here's the link to where i got it. It is relatively cheap IMO. Hope that helps


----------



## Scorpion

Ya da man Slick Rick! Thanks!


----------



## rickztahone

scorpion said:


> ya da man slick rick! Thanks!


np


----------



## kdogg

I made this a few years ago but here's a pic anyway. The sub frame is 2x2's and face and sides are partical board fasten with 25 or more dowels to the sub frame. I then painted the interior with deck sealer. The exterior is arborite like on kitchen counters. No seams other then the corners.









Sorry only pic I have there is a 120 tall in the stand. 4ft x 2ft x 2ft


----------



## rvcrawford

*60 Gallon Stand*

I just finished this stand this past Saturday. Now I'm working on a DIY LED light and I need some more plants. 

This is also in my Tank Journal.

Roger


----------



## original kuhli

Nicely done, I thought long and hard on how to get better access to the top of the tank while the hood was open...even measured the height of my armpit and built the stand so I could reach the back corners of the tank. You designed the hood in a great way!

Beautiful work also!


----------



## Scorpion

Nicely done. Love the color. Is that a 29?


----------



## rvcrawford

original kuhli said:


> Nicely done, I thought long and hard on how to get better access to the top of the tank while the hood was open...even measured the height of my armpit and built the stand so I could reach the back corners of the tank. You designed the hood in a great way!
> 
> Beautiful work also!


 
Thanks Kuhli. 

My design goal was to hide all equipment and power cords and I didn't want to have any light leaking out of the hood. I also wanted to cover up the plastic base and rim of the tank and cover the ugly black silicon glue in the front corners. Of course I wanted easy access to the top for cleaning etc. 

I can tell you I spent a lot of time lying awake in bed trying to figure it all out. The sliding top cover was easy but I couldn't get how to get the molding, surrounding the tank, to cover the plastic but still slide the tank in place. Then it hit me, just slide the tank in from the back before screwing the stand to the wall. Once I had that breakthrough it all came together.

It's a 60g 48" X'24" tank by the way.

Thanks,
Roger


----------



## rvcrawford

Scorpion said:


> Nicely done. Love the color. Is that a 29?


 
Thanks Scorpion.

It's at 60g tank. 

The stand is made from mahogany. I didn't use any stain just clear polyurethane for the finish.

Thanks,
Roger


----------



## Hoppy

Beautiful design! One can easily see that one of your other hobbies is woodworking.


----------



## mrchach

Jowlz said:


> Here's mine. The unit is actually 3 separate units. Each unit was built using a floating top (simple leveling). Camera on its way out.


niceroud:


----------



## speedglas

Some really nice stands here !


rvcrawford awesome work!!! roud:

here is mine for my other 55 with 2 pygos natterreri


----------



## mrchach

Not finished... but here ya go


----------



## JACimages

to come


----------



## msjinkzd

Mine are more utilitarian, but figured I would share them anyway:
220g: 









Some of my homemade racks:


----------



## jreich

/\ that looks nicer then my LFS + more tanks!
Very nice!


----------



## Csababá

msjinkzd, how do you reach the highest level?


----------



## msjinkzd

I have a ladder on wheels. YOu can see it in this pic:








I can also attach dip and pours to the railing when catchign multiple species


----------



## bpb

*My modest attempt at a diy stand.*

Hello everyone. New guy here. Here is a diy stand I did for my 75 gallon community tank. All birch exterior with a dark walnut stain and polyurethane finish. Debating on whether to make a hood for it or not.


----------



## Scorpion

bpb said:


> Hello everyone. New guy here. Here is a diy stand I did for my 75 gallon community tank. All birch exterior with a dark walnut stain and polyurethane finish. Debating on whether to make a hood for it or not.



You went this far with the base, go for the hood bro. Lookin' goood roud::biggrin:


----------



## nwaaks

Anybody have any pictures of racks made with brinks and lumber?


----------



## joshyboi2

I just finish refurbishing a stand that came with my tank from the local Aquarium store.
It didn't cost me too much and I am happy with the finished look. It's simple but practical for me.


----------



## Beeps

Hi Guy's,

Here's mine made for about $85:


----------



## Jason Baliban

Here is one of my latest. The light stand is DIY as well.










jB


----------



## macclellan

Jason Baliban said:


> Here is one of my latest. The light stand is DIY as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jB


That photo looks unreal... composite image? The hair-dryer-on-the-surface-look and light's not on? Not knocking you or your skill, just making sure.


----------



## Hoppy

Beeps said:


> Hi Guy's,
> 
> Here's mine made for about $85:


That is one very beautiful stand, at a price that is exceptionally low! All done with stock moldings too, right?



Jason Baliban said:


> Here is one of my latest. The light stand is DIY as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> jB


Wow! That looks great, especially the light stand. Tell us more about how you made the light stand, preferably in a new thread with pics.


----------



## Beeps

> That is one very beautiful stand, at a price that is exceptionally low! All done with stock moldings too, right?


Thanks Hoppy,

Yes all stock moldings from Home Depot, no frame just cabinet grade plywood and drywall screws. My plan was to build it under $50 but when I saw the moldings I had to get them :icon_smil .


----------



## Jason Baliban

macclellan said:


> That photo looks unreal... composite image? The hair-dryer-on-the-surface-look and light's not on? Not knocking you or your skill, just making sure.


No knocking, its absolutely a composite.



Hoppy said:


> Wow! That looks great, especially the light stand. Tell us more about how you made the light stand, preferably in a new thread with pics.


Thanks man!

I wrote an article on how to build this stand here...
http://www.projectaquarium.com/plantedAquariumArticles_stainless_lightstand.aspx

jB


----------



## macclellan

Jason Baliban said:


> I wrote an article on how to build this stand here...
> http://www.projectaquarium.com/plan...aspx[/url
> jB[/QUOTE]
> Thanks for the writeup!


----------



## Jason Baliban

macclellan said:


> Thanks for the writeup!


Absolutely!!

jB


----------



## Jason Baliban

And of course everyone knows this thread... But maybe you didnt see the new video that was added?

http://www.projectaquarium.com/plantedAquariumArticles_ADAAquariumStand.aspx

jB


----------



## Gatekeeper

Jason,

How did you trim the front panel piece that overlays the sides and get the edge at a 90 degree angle (near the contact points at the sides)? It doesn't appear that router bits would do well with laminate on inside corners.


----------



## Jason Baliban

Gatekeeper said:


> Jason,
> 
> How did you trim the front panel piece that overlays the sides and get the edge at a 90 degree angle (near the contact points at the sides)? It doesn't appear that router bits would do well with laminate on inside corners.


If i understand what you are asking? You are thinking that the seems are like a picture frame (two 90 degree angles)? If you are, that is not how it works. There is overlay, so you have to strategically figure out in which order to put the laminate on so that the seems are on the sides and back.

jB


----------



## Gatekeeper

Yea. I think I see what you are saying. I just built one myself, but not laminating it, just painting it. But just for the heck of it, I looked at it and was trying to figure out if I could laminate it. Some of the small changes I made to the basic design prohibits me from really getting the right edges.


----------



## Safez

Not Pretty, but it is supporting a 147 Gal all glass tank with deep substrate.

Construction

7mm gauge internal box steel
Cold dip galvanised welds
Good for 4-5 tonnes +

amidoinitrite?


----------



## JACimages

Little Sneak Peak


----------



## Vonzorfox

Lots of nice stands here. Some of you are real great cabinet makers, nice work. Mine is nothing super special compared to some of yours here. This one is mine made of scrap wood and a old table that was given to me.


----------



## Hoppy

Vonzorfox said:


> Lots of nice stands here. Some of you are real great cabinet makers, nice work. Mine is nothing super special compared to some of yours here. This one is mine made of scrap wood and a old table that was given to me.


I really like the way you used the back of the door for hanging things, especially the towel. I may try that on my stands. That stand has great character too.


----------



## Vonzorfox

Yeah it surprised me too on how good it looks for junk wood that was laying on my basement floor keeping my saw horses level. I didn't even sand them, just cut and nail gunned them to the framework. The wonders of Minwax PolyShade. Now I have to quit screwing around with the tank and stain the rest of the wood in the house.... at least for a few hours.


----------



## wkndracer

*Doing stainless this time*

As usual couldn't find what I wanted to buy. (I own 1 store bought stand)
Could not find a stand tall enough to allow access to the lower box while having the lights mounted above the tank,,, so I built one.:icon_mrgr

My latest nightmare = Dual 55g all DIY brushed stainless square tube.


















































Adjustable leveling feet = 3/4x1" NF16TPI :icon_mrgr









Drilled the threads out of 1/2" nuts to create the swivel rings for the 1/2" high pressure ss tubing used to create the upper light mounts (swivels nicely :icon_mrgr hehe)









Big grins used everywhere because I'm thrilled with how it turned out.
Now to plant the new tanks and move the critters. :icon_mrgr

(hey Sara the lower tank is a dirt tank :droolwho's scared?))


----------



## mrchach

mrchach said:


>


And Finished!


----------



## rickztahone

Mrchach i think it came out great, the only advise i can give you is to black out the sides and add a background so it isn't distracting when viewing the whole tank.


----------



## rvcrawford

You don't need to worry about blacking out the sides. The sides will look like mirrors when the tank is full of water. The stand turned out great by the way.


----------



## Kibblemania1414

rolloffhill said:


> Lots more pics here...


i really like this one!! :icon_mrgr:bounce::bounce:


----------



## Kibblemania1414

hey mrchach, is that next to your bed? if so, i have always wanted to do that so you could just turn over and look at your fishies.


----------



## mrchach

Kibblemania1414 said:


> hey mrchach, is that next to your bed? if so, i have always wanted to do that so you could just turn over and look at your fishies.


yes... it is my Bedside Breeder...

its awesomeness


----------



## sns26

*Here's mine*

Here's mine. I just posted a thread about it, in case you want more details. Anyone have good ideas for knobs? So far I'm using blue tape (as you can see).


----------



## Hoppy

I like using small brass or brushed nickel knobs on stands like that. It is just a personal preference though.


----------



## tzen

Now you need the cherry and curly-maple-trimmed hood to match.
2nd on brushed nickle knobs.

Great work!


----------



## xmas_one

My preference for knobs, is no knobs. Use magnetic pop outs instead.


----------



## TwoStrokeKing

davocean said:


> So, I just got my new 160g last night 60x24x26
> Thought I'd show what I do for frames these days, just did this one today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My 67g solana I'm swapping livestock from


what are the holes for? nice stand!


----------



## treeside

[/QUOTE]

I like the way you hung your light fixture. How'd you make it? I want to try to get a similar set up


----------



## sns26

tzen said:


> Now you need the cherry and curly-maple-trimmed hood to match.


Took me a while, but I did get there eventually...


----------



## tzen

I love it, nice work!


----------



## zainey_04

Hey does anyone have an idea of how I can make a stand that will hold two 29 gallon tanks vertically? meaning one on top of the other.


----------



## jwm5

With metal or wood? Might be easier to buy a metal stand and use wood to cover the metal and face it to look like a wood cabinet. Otherwise you would just need to size the wood shelfs(s) properly to make sure it supports the weight of the tank. A 29 isnt too heavy so a 2x4 frame should support the weight but the heavier wooden stand will make the whole setup higher, which will make maintenance on the top tank more challenging. 

If I wanted to do two stacked tanks I would probably go with the metal frame and skin it with wood.


----------



## firefiend

*My 10g pedestal style*

This was my first tank stand build. I don't like the look of cabinet stand for small tanks like this so I made a pedestal type stand with canopy. Build it two years ago and finally put it too use last week, lol.











I'm designing my next build which will be a cabinet for a 55g. This thread has been a great help in generating ideas and I think I'm going to build with the black body/cherry stained trim... that looks real sharp!


----------



## carriej

My fiance built me this stand for the 2nd hand 46 gal bowfront I picked up.. The stand that came with it was particle board and had absorbed some water so it had to go.










































Stand is made from 2x4 and plywood on top and bottom. Stand is wrapped with hardwood flooring and the silver stuff is wall edging. spray painted top and bottom black with a gloss finish.


----------



## Uptown193

carriej said:


> My fiance built me this stand for the 2nd hand 46 gal bowfront I picked up.. The stand that came with it was particle board and had absorbed some water so it had to go.


Wow that stand is built like a tank from the looks of it. Nice.


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## Uptown193

Lovely stands here. I will build one someday.


----------



## ElectricBlue

Heres one im working on now for a 40B 


nice a simple. 
Going to wrap it with plywood and paint it all black to match another stand on the other side of the room. 




































This thing is already very solid. 
Going to add in a floor, close in the front and rear and the sides. 
Going to add 2 doors to the front. 

Going to add a shelf but havent decided if im going to have it take up one 
whole side of the stand or run it along the back wall.


----------



## gitusukka

*My cheapo stand for 20 gal*

Find 2 pallets. Break pallets apart. Salvage the best pieces of wood. Cut & assemble. Took about 2 hours, and hardest part was breaking the pallets apart without destroying the wood. Cost about $5 for screws. No stain, or finish, just plain industrial look.


----------



## mr_bob

my new 55g stand.


30 in high and built in light on the top need to get a pic of it finished


----------



## ElectricBlue

6ft 125G Stand 













































The stand under the 40B is getting the back of it covered in plywood, i am also going to cover the sides in plywood. Going to put 2 shelves in there, one traveling the full width of the stand the other only going half way across leaving room for my XP3. 

The 6FT stand is going to get a full plywood and trim job. Ive still got to add in the center brace for the front. It will have 2 or 4 doors, havent decided yet. 
Both stands will be spray painted with high gloss black.


----------



## j_rizzo

*my flatback hex build*

Friend of mine gave me this 40g flatback hex tank- it ws in pretty rough shape so I cleaned it up and resealed it. 
Decided to go saltwater, but after finding out i didnt have enough room for an adequate sump I needed to figure out a way to hide the protien skimmer hanging off the back of the tank.
Solution: I flipped the tank around and used the flat back as the display side, and the protien skimmer fit nicely on the angled side of the hex front.
I used 2x4's for the frame, and wrapped it in 3/4 inch birch. Its my forst attempt at a DIY stand but everything seems to be coming together nicely- I even managed to build the doors from ripped scraps of the birch- 
Heres my progress so far:

Frame:






















SKimmer fit!









Dry fit:












Doors:










Side cutout:










Will post more as I complete her...


----------



## ElectricBlue

I see a big big biggggg flaw in your stand. 


Your aquarium is not being supported by wood, it is being supported by screws or nails. 
You need to ad 6 possibly 10 more 2x4s to the outside of each leg and center brace. 
This will put wood inbetween the top frame and the bottom frame instead of on the inside or outside of the bottom or top frame. 

You can ad 2 2x4's to each corner which will ad a tremendous amount of strength. 



Take a look at my framework and everyone else's framework. You will see what i am talking about.


----------



## tzen

EB has a good point. You overbuilt nicely, if those are screws and not nails, but all the weight is just held up by scews. At minimum put a 3/4 plywood sheet over the top, under the tank, with screws into all the horizontal beams wood every 4 inches. That would tighten everything considerably.


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## Hoppy

This is very important to do, as stated by ElectricBlue. The extra pieces need to be in at least 6, preferably 8 places, so there is a direct wood load path from top frame to bottom frame.


----------



## ElectricBlue

Hopefully he hasnt filled the tank with water yet. 



I see he is new here, just trying to help him out and save him from having a disaster.


----------



## firefiend

This stand will be just fine with only a piece of ply on the top. Securing it with screws to the joists. There are six uprights supporting the weight of the tank, plus the side panels (make sure these screwed to frame as well). This is assuming you used screws throughout the build.


----------



## Hoppy

A nailed or screwed together joint will not withstand a load that tries to shear off the screws or nails. What will happen is the wood will fail in compression along the sides of the fasteners, allowing the wood piece to shift position to ease the load. Eventually, the stand will fail as a result. (Or the tank will be supported unevenly and it will fail.) It just isn't worth the risk, given how easy it is to fix it.

You can drive apart two nailed or screwed together boards by hammering on the edge of one board. It gradually moves down until the screws break or the nails bend enough to release the joint.


----------



## j_rizzo

Yep i totally see your point EB. It shouldnt be hard to cut a few 2x4's and get them in there, thank god for kreg jigs cause if I had glued that sucker there would be no way out. I did have the tank filled with water in the garage for about a week LOL- was leak testing the seals. 

Great advice all the way around- thats the reason I posted here! thanks guys!


----------



## lbacha

Here is my DIY stand it's 18" x 18" and was built from edge joined panels of Aspen it went together really easy and hit the look I wanted which was all the hardware (hinges & knobs) hidden.


























Len


----------



## driftwoodhunter

Hey Len, did you make your copper tube light support too? I really like it. If you did, how about a closeup of the hardware used to suspend the light fixture? Pretty Please? lol
~ Cindy ~


----------



## Hoppy

You need one more board - a "header" under the top front edge of the door. It can be glued in place, with no fasteners through the outer skin. Without that the front edge of the top will sag and make the door stick shut, and it leaves the front edge of the tank unsupported. I have had this problem more than once.


----------



## ElectricBlue

j_rizzo said:


> Yep i totally see your point EB. It shouldnt be hard to cut a few 2x4's and get them in there, thank god for kreg jigs cause if I had glued that sucker there would be no way out. I did have the tank filled with water in the garage for about a week LOL- was leak testing the seals.
> 
> Great advice all the way around- thats the reason I posted here! thanks guys!



Very wise choice on making the changes, will definitely save you from headache later on down the road. 


Welcome to TPT! :icon_cool


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## lbacha

Hoppy said:


> You need one more board - a "header" under the top front edge of the door. It can be glued in place, with no fasteners through the outer skin. Without that the front edge of the top will sag and make the door stick shut, and it leaves the front edge of the tank unsupported. I have had this problem more than once.


Funny you should mention that, the finished cabinet has a support like you mentioned at the top and a second in the middle to hold a shelve. I was concerned about the sides bowing out without any support.

Len


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## lbacha

driftwoodhunter said:


> Hey Len, did you make your copper tube light support too? I really like it. If you did, how about a closeup of the hardware used to suspend the light fixture? Pretty Please? lol
> ~ Cindy ~


Cindy

I'll take a picture and show you how I did it one I get a chance, it is copper but I would recommend conduit if I did it again, the copper kinked when it was bent but conduit will bend kink free and then you can paint it. I have a whole fixture in mind that will eliminate the hardware but havn't got around to building it yet.

Len


----------



## redfishsc

Here is a pic of a stand I had on a 3-tank reef system. It's no longer set up and the stand is used in the kitchen as a storage cabinet and counter space.


----------



## redfishsc

Here is my current DIY setup, 2 freshwater tanks. 

In the background is an 11g rimless (36X9X9 from Green Leaf) sitting on a bookshelf I made to fit (nearly perfectly) this spot and hold this tank.

The foreground is the 45g cube stand (minus the doors). Custom canopy with LEDs and digital readouts for LED current. 

I don't have a pic of the stand with doors on yet (doh) but will get one soon.


----------



## j_rizzo

*progress!*



















Added 6 2x4'S o the frame so I dont have any accidents. Less than $200 altogether if you dont count the new router I had to buy- and its solid birch. First thing I have ever built outside of some bandpass enclosures and such for car stereos!


----------



## tzen

Looks awesome. I'm glad to hear you added the 2x4 that were suggested. 
Tools purchased don't count in the cost of DIY-- are you crazy? 

Looking through this forum especially, the biggest thing that makes DIY stands look great is the finish, (and the wood used. Birch plywood-- or maple or cherry-- makes a huge difference over the cheaper stuff.) And then time spent sanding and several coats of finish makes all the difference. If you paint, use sanding sealer first.


----------



## Hoppy

Whenever you do a DIY project you are saving a lot of money over buying an equivalent version. Years ago a friend and co-worker advised me to always buy at least one good new tool for each DIY job. That doesn't raise the price above what buying an equivalent version would cost, but it slowly builds up your tool collection, so the next DIY project will be easier and will look better. I have always followed that advice.


----------



## stuie25

divy said:


> My ADA style stand in gloss black and DIY hood



that's amazing, id love to see some build pics, is it laminated wood, or did you paint it?


----------



## redfishsc

tzen said:


> Tools purchased don't count in the cost of DIY-- are you crazy?


I just wish that tools purchased didn't count in my checkbook lol!



> Looking through this forum especially, the biggest thing that makes DIY stands look great is the finish, (and the wood used. Birch plywood-- or maple or cherry-- makes a huge difference over the cheaper stuff.) And then time spent sanding and several coats of finish makes all the difference. If you paint, use sanding sealer first.


Being a cabinetmaker by trade, I couldn't have said this better. 

The two big things that I HATE about commercial made products is the pitiful and cheapo materials used, and the horrid grade of wood finish they put on it (if there's any finish on it at all, other than stain).


----------



## iKine

DIY stand made from 1/2" marine grade plywood for a 230 gallon reef.









Two sliding doors on the front










Sump access, fold down door to slide sump in and out for easy cleaning.


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## oldpunk78

Here's a pic of an ADA knock-off stand I just finish up for my 60P. It's all 3/4" MDF. I should have taken some build pics.


----------



## intermediate_noob

The stand looks great. Did you paint it or is that laminate?


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## oldpunk78

Oil base enamel, thick coat.


----------



## Doc7

40 Breeder

Doors to be added at future time


----------



## sick lid

Hoppy said:


> Whenever you do a DIY project you are saving a lot of money over buying an equivalent version. Years ago a friend and co-worker advised me to always buy at least one good new tool for each DIY job. That doesn't raise the price above what buying an equivalent version would cost, but it slowly builds up your tool collection, so the next DIY project will be easier and will look better. I have always followed that advice.


This is the best advice I have ever heard:smile:


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## [email protected]

Since we're on good advice, don't scrimp on painting or finishing materials. 
They are an insignificant part of the finished project cost and cheaper if you amortize over a couple of years.


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## lbacha

[email protected] said:


> Since we're on good advice, don't scrimp on painting or finishing materials.
> They are an insignificant part of the finished project cost and cheaper if you amortize over a couple of years.


Sanding, painting/staining and sealing are the most time consuming part of any project imho, but if you take the time and do it right it makes the difference between an ok piece and a nice piece of furniture.

Len


----------



## Calmia22

Does anyone have any advice on the aquarium hood? I want one that I don't have to take on and off all the time when I need to get into the tank for more then just feeding. I have a normal 55g, but I am worried about the weight of a hood on top. I am currently in the process of building a stand, and I would love a nice hood for it too.


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## j_rizzo

*almost finished!*

DIY cabinet, sump and overflow box, waiting on live rock/sand from TBS. Awesome company to deal with btw- true customer oriented service by far!


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## DougGraham

Thought i would throw my Ikea stand in the mix. Here are some pictures.

Building:









Doors on:









Up and Running:


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## Uptown193

I built my first stand over the weekend and here is how it came out. I used HD 1/2" hardwood Sandeply, with 1x3" frame and 1x4" legs notched for the frame. I used MinWax Wood Conditioner and MinWax New Satin Black PolyShades and I also am using a 1/4" plexiglass as a door so I can see my new G3 Filter and my CO2 tank that I paid a lot of money for so why hide it.


----------



## aczeller

here's one that I finished up last night. 16 outlets, 4x4 framework, 3/4" sides and top with oak rim, doors, and veneer. turned out pretty nice other than forgetting to take the leveling foam into account. I also need to replace the current lighting with a small 12-18" fluorescent light, but other than that, she's good to go. next up is a custom canopy to go with it.

granted, it's not a planted tank, but it's still a stand. lol.




























Later,
Andy


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## mattycakesclark

Just starting my ADA style stand. Used edge joined pine (couldn't find a less knotty wood, but I think it has character LOL)

Gonna poly it and hardware it tomorrow


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## lbacha

mattycakesclark said:


> Just starting my ADA style stand. Used edge joined pine (couldn't find a less knotty wood, but I think it has character LOL)
> 
> Gonna poly it and hardware it tomorrow


The Lowes by me sells edge joined Aspen it is completely clear and only a little more than pine I'm not sure if it's a regional thing though..

Len


----------



## aczeller

lbacha said:


> The Lowes by me sells edge joined Aspen it is completely clear and only a little more than pine I'm not sure if it's a regional thing though..
> 
> Len


keep in mind that Aspen is a relatively soft wood. sometimes softer than pine.


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## idex

This is my completed stand for a 40B.


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## Chiro

Just a simple stand for a 40g breeder I made, followed a plan I found on http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1169964
The legs are made of 2 1x4's with a 1.5x1.5 on inside corner. The horizontal pieces and are 1x6's. The top is made of 1x7's. Used wood glue and plenty of screws everywhere. Very solid and stable, around 39" in height. Total cost was $2 for a small can of stain/poly, and the wood was leftover scraps. Didn't cover up the screws, since I wanted to be able to take it apart for when I move.


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## junko

Nice, Chiro! Thanks so much for the link- it was just what I was looking for!


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## JRMott

idex said:


> This is my completed stand for a 40B.


Very nice, I love the clean lines & modern look.


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## idex

JRMott said:


> Very nice, I love the clean lines & modern look.


Thanks.


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## Bjielsl

Probably going to copy your design for my 90-P


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## R_Barber001

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/groups/x_gal10n_x-picture8622-changed-corners-45-cuts.jpg 
10's need stands too!


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## mnellis3023

Here is my latest Reef Build


----------



## junko

Well, I cringe posting this after ^that gorgeous stand, but here's mine...

I needed a stand for my 56g but didn't want to spend $2-300 at least, and I wanted something that went with the furniture in my living room. I used the frame from this DIY: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1169964

Then I put a skin and a top on it. It matches my coffee table and side table perfectly, except that they have turned legs. I didn't even want to go there- I'm not a master woodworker by any stretch!










It cost me about $75 not including paint which I still had from refinishing the other furniture.


----------



## Gold Finger

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/pHosting/f/7145_IMG00142_smallerc.jpg

I'm a new member and i'm really posting this pic to see if I have figured out how to, and to see what my crummy cell cam photo looks like, but here's my ghetto DIY stand:

I made it from an old dresser I pulled out of the back lane. It's only notable feature is that there is no ledge around the bottom of the tank. The tank fits it perfectly flush to the edge and is held in place by wood bracing strips below the base rim. I don't like the little 1/4 in. ledge most stands have. I gutted the drawer rails and saved the stained hardwood parts to make center and corner posts, then cut it down to size and added 3/4 plywood to the inside of the three closed sides keeping the nice finished panels on the outside. Finally, I added a plywood apron (that's the carpentry term for the horizontal brace) to support the front. I could add doors, but i'd never close them anyway. I'm not very tidy. Right now it houses a half full bucket of drywall screws, the caulking gun I used to put the tank together and a bunch of random crap. It could one day house the sump, but will probably be full messy of piles of clothes instead. I probably should make doors.


----------



## Gold Finger

Ummm... so how do you get the photo to be visible, rather than just a link?


----------



## griffin_pak

Step by step construction here:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/t...m/146642-shallow-30-gallon-cube-tank-diy.html


----------



## NStarr

Gold Finger said:


> Ummm... so how do you get the photo to be visible, rather than just a link?


Click "insert image" (picture of mountain) in advanced reply or on just normal.


----------



## Gold Finger

Thanks:smile:


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## moonshinetheslacker

Here's mine.


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## driftwoodhunter

oooh! I LOVE it!


----------



## iKine




----------



## driftwoodhunter

Can't wait to see that baby with the tank on it! Love the swing out lights!


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## Hoppy

It's hard to beat the light hanging system for being inconspicuous. I may check my surplus metals dealer to see what aluminum rods cost there. And, the proportions of the stand are perfect!


----------



## Uptown193

Bjielsl said:


> Probably going to copy your design for my 90-P


Im flattered. Thank you. I kinda wish I got the 90P, but I still just might but do a coral reef tank with it since they come reef ready. I have more pics in my thread I made you can check out if you like.


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## moonshinetheslacker

iKine, I like the look of those 4x4 legs. Very substantial. You must have either a very stable hand, or some kind of trick, to drilling a hole so close to the side of the rear, top, 4x4, for your rods. It looks like they are only 1/8th of an inch from the side of the 4x4. Is this an optical illusion? If not, I might put a flat metal bracket, or maybe some nailer plates, over the wood where the rod is going through.

Just my opinion. I over-build everything.

**edit**

Nevermind, I just saw your light thread, and can see that those babies are a good inch or so away from the edge, AND that you have a drill press (lucky b......) One of these days, when I have a garage, I'll be able to have the cool tools as well. For the mean time, I built my last stand in my dining room.


----------



## galabar

Here is a stand that I recently built for a 40 gallon (there is also a 20 long on the bottom):

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ta07C0y0nk&feature=feedu


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## kered

ive never built any type of furniture but ive always wanted to get into woodworking...I just moved to a new apartment with an extra bedroom so i figured why not make the spare bedroom a wood shop?? my 40 breeder was sitting on cinder blocks so i figured the first thing i would make is a stand for it...here is some shots of it...its not too bad but i learned a lot and feel like if i were to do it again i could do a way better job

notice the tarp for the sawdust lol


----------



## moonshinetheslacker

Wow, that's your first venture with woodworking? I don't believe it. I'm going to guess that you are some sort of handyman, or work in construction. Most people don't think of using any type of trim for their first build, or if they do, they go really cheap on it. And, it appears that the stand was nailed together with a nail gun, yeah? 

In any event, you did an outstanding job. Extremely sturdy, looks great, and you obviously kept the price nice and low by using plywood, and pine doors. Did you make the doors yourself?


----------



## ROZDAB

Kered,
Yea that stand is awesome especially for a first wood working project. U did an outstanding job. Congrats On how it turned out. Only thing I can say is get a background for the tank if u haven't yet. The plants and fish colors will pop out. Lol keep it up and congrats and good work. 
Bill


----------



## kered

thanks guys, i built a birdhouse with my dad when i was 7 does that count?? na no construction background...right now im just a recent college grad trying to find a job with my major (watershed science and management)...i dont own a nail gun, i used trim nails and a hammer...i countersunk them a little then used wood filler sanded down to make them almost invisible...i didnt own any power tools other than a drill until this project and ended up buying a router, circular saw, table saw, and chop saw off of craigslist

i sort of made the doors...bought stain grade pine panels from lowes that are glued together to make a wider panel...then i took the table saw and turned the blade 45 degrees to cut the corners...i wanted to add some kind of simple decorative design on the doors with the router but ive never used one before so i wanted to get some more practice in...i still might do it after some practice

a background is the next thing on my list...im probably just gonna go with a simple black


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## iKine

Hoppy said:


> It's hard to beat the light hanging system for being inconspicuous. I may check my surplus metals dealer to see what aluminum rods cost there. And, the proportions of the stand are perfect!


I paid 0.30$ per foot.

But we use alot of it at work. I first found the stuff at my local Rona (hardware store). It was 3.00$ per foot.




driftwoodhunter said:


> Can't wait to see that baby with the tank on it! Love the swing out lights!



If you check out the "90 Gallon Fahaka" link in my sig you can see the setup


----------



## Hcancino

Well after finding this thread I have decided to build my own stand for a 90 gallon. Anyone wanna help me out with needed materials? I'd like to do 4x4s for the legs and the part that holds the tank but I don't know if it's easier to use 2x4s


----------



## HighTech

You can easily get away with using 4x4's for the entire structure of the stand. 

I highly suggest building your frame similar to this one. 

http://blog.aquanerd.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Frag-Tank-Stand-3.jpg


You can see a total of 3 2x4's at each corner, the 2 on the outside and then there is one inside them attaching the top rectangle of the frame to the bottom rectangle. 
Strong strong strong is what it is. 

Cant go wrong with that design.


----------



## Hcancino

What would be better to use? Wood screws to attach the wood or use L shaped brackets on the inside corners with nails/wood screws?


----------



## HighTech

Both would be great, but dont use the L brackets without some good quality wood
construction screws pulling the lumber together.


----------



## mjbubbles

What an inspiring thread! I had an illusion that I might build myself a hood to hide the lights on my 55 gallon acrylic tank. I don't like that you see the waterline and the light spills out of the gap.
But now that I've seen this, I don't think my constructions skills are up to standard!
It's back to dreaming for me!
I really admire all of your work. Kudos!!


----------



## msharper

Great thread! I'm in the process of building a two tank rack out of 2x4's and as mentioned above. Strong strong strong is the goal!


----------



## MoeBetta

This is the 1.0 design thus far. I'm including space and cutouts for integrated outlets. I'm thinking 3/4" Birch ply stained fairly dark, but with edges exposed and routered flat.


----------



## halffrozen

Inspired from this thread, here is my stand.


----------



## Tplant

I always enjoy seeing DIY stands since it always gives me new ideas to try. The first big tank I bought was a custom built tank and stand. Here are a few of the ones I have: a custom built tank and stand from the 80's (not built by me) and then two I built a 20long and 75 stand/canopy.

Custom tank/stand: Still in use but split glass bottom still makes me think..... from my understanding once a common practice in European tanks at one point and was built by a German man that ran a fish store. Stand used 3/4 inch oak veneered ply for sides/bottom and 3/4 oak from front.









20 long: 2x4 frame, covered in 1/8 faux leather paneling









75 gallon stand/canopy:
I used a 4x4 and 2x4 frame construction, laminated ply top and bottom, all interior framing skinned in birch ply, exterior frame skinned in cherry veneer ply, trimmed with cherry moldings.


----------



## Jeromeit

Wrong post


----------



## dantra

Here is another stand similar to the previous one I made. I added grommets to this one for obvious reasons. Design and grommet implementation was inspired by Jason Baliban.










Dan


----------



## kcartwright856

Built by my pap as a Frankenstein project from scraps in his wood shop. Lots of different types of woods! He's not happy about the horizontal piece beneath the drawers, but that's all he had that would fit. I don't even notice!

The two drawers are wonderful and I keep my food and small supplies there. The cabinets below hold two big buckets and larger tools/supplies.


----------



## MoeBetta

That stand looks GREAT.


----------



## Hoppy

MoeBetta said:


> That stand looks GREAT.


I agree. Frankenstein never looked any better:biggrin:


----------



## D3monic

Heres my 75 gal stand I made a few years ago. Its held a reef, vivarium and now is going to hold a planted tank. I plan on making the canopy this weekend.


----------



## woomdawg

hydrophyte said:


> here are some shots of these ones that i have made with 2X4's, 4X4's and galvanized framing connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ~


I love those stands I hope you dont mind I might copy you for my 10 gallon.


----------



## esworp

At great risk of being cited for a cross-post...



Click here *for the ambient sounds needed during reading of this post.*

_Diary Entry 1..._
It's time. 

A hunger to build ... er, builds inside me. 

Nights of feverish dreams torment me, in which I am drawn to a dark and distant city beyond time. Amid a chorus of chanting in a vile, base language from the mouths of a myriad of unnameable madmen, a vision is forced upon me:








Each night I am shocked into wakefulness. This gut-wrenching visage still hovering in my sight. 

So I must build. 

What little sanity I can wrest from these uninvited attacks is shaken by the Joining:









This profane act leaves permanent scars and deformations on the fabric of my reality:









Yet I must Join. My vision, horrid and shambling as it is, is hammered into the fore of my consciousness with each required repetition.










_Diary Entry 2.._
Sleep continues to escape me, though I long for a bout of restful silence, my dreams are plagued by the scrawled incantations of the unwell. My comrades at Miskatonic University suggest I put pen to paper, as a palliative.


It is unsuccessful.









As the arcane letters from alphabets long lost to time spread across the page, a compulsion to begin hoarding materials washes over me, until I am subject to a loss of consciousness. 

When I awaken, I reel in horror at what I see around me. My senses force the images of the mutilated bodies into my awareness, however so unwanted may they be. 









I turn around, and weep as I see the foundation of the terrible altar that haunts my mind.









It's loathsome familiarity shakes the precipitous perch I maintain with sanity.









Driven beyond the point of madness, I screech in pleasure as I wallow in the filth, clawing at the horrid structure in half-reverence, half-madness.










_Diary Entry 3..._

It is clear to me that the others in the expedition to this fetid locale have become aware of my malady. Just yesterday I was shaken awake by Professor Poplar, whom was later seen fervently whispering to our peers about "Esworp's damned unpublished works."

I knew what I must do - Poplar is to be a participant, willing or not, to my cursed and unbidden compulsion to craft this forsaken altar to the Gods That Sleep.









With strength I did not know possible to possess, I manipulate Poplar's bloodied form into the architecture of my creation, each angle seeming to bend into impossible space. Those parts I cannot use, I give to the sled dogs, who seem to share my distress in the awful disturbances that wash over me.









In my delirium, I chuckle in the knowledge that Poplar's remains have become the meat that gives sustanance to the dogs that haul our expedition closer by the day towards the site, most cruel, of the rancid altar I am creating. A moment of sympathy approaches me, for poor Poplar, whom I spent many a pleasant evening with at the University. 










Poor Professor Poplar, I fear that his hand in the Summoning -while crucial- is not exactly of a voluntary nature. His mangled and dislocated remains, now fashioned according to the visions thrust upon me by nameless dieties from beyond space and time, are only the first of many ingredients I am bidden to call upon. May God forgive me for what I am to unleash.










_Diary Entry 4..._
As our expedition continues the arduous march towards the Pole, under the guise of recovering the "equipment" left amongst what must be the frozen corpses of my post-doctorate staff. Armed with the cart-blanche blessing of the last expedition's leader, I had little difficulty in crafting such a ruse and retaining a cadre of duped explorers.

And, oh, how the need for this ruse haunts me. The polar winds echo with the shrill vocalizations of Professor Poplar, resounding in the memory of his 'contribution' to my 'research'.









With each unwanted bout of my giving in to these tormenting visions, I find that my hands are beginning to move with greater finesse and surety.









While some of the incantations not meant for human hands and minds still give me grief.










While the sun has yet to set here at the tip of the world, and only spins around the camp in a lewd parody, I do feel the diurnal shifts built into my physiology - on the sole account of the visions normally only troubling me at nights back at the University It is with great worry that I consider that my affliction will overcome me during a time where I'm not isolated from the team. Even the sled dogs refuse my company; which is unfortunate, given that I fed them what remained of Poplar.










I regret none of the solitude, for the team's incessant pratling only infuriates me with it's banality. I busy myself with thoughts of exquisite darkness and sublime silence offered to me if my altar to the Gods From Beyond Time is completed according to the visions.









I will indeed meet this Darkness. Lo, for the Darkening comes next.










_Record From Field Team 3 found at accident site:_


We've decided, as a group, that the leader of the expedition has suffered a inexonerable break from reality. Whether this is from the rigors of the trek, or as result of the unusual incident with Poplar, we cannot know. Last eve, we overheard him speaking in a mix of strange languages; and something about a "capstone".









The context of his nightmarish gibbering implies that it is the cap to something loathsome, but none of us are familiar with the fevered dialects we hear being shouted from his tent.









We cannot know what awaits us- we are led by madness, into more madness, still.










_Diary Entry 6..._

We've reached the encampment from last year's expedition, and while the rest of the party fritters away their time with pointless funerary services of the deceased, whose bodies are frozen harder than iron, blasted by the ceaseless winds, and mummified, I make use of the time alone to continue my 'research'.










I stumble across the abortive and thoughtless product of the summoning attempt that resulted in the failure of the previous party. It appears to recognize that it and I share the common thread of a dark and unspeakable corruption, and is always visible at the edges of the lamplight. I constantly glance over my shoulder with a start, as it appears to have a manner of hunger in it's eyes.










With the load-bearing foundation of my altar completed, crooked though it may be, I now concentrate on the routing of the fluidic energies, in accordance with the lunatic monks we first met in New Istanbul.









At the time, our translator appeared fixated on the usage of the term 'alignment', which we thought was related to orientation in degrees and pitch. Soon after my visions drove me to murder I realized he was speaking of alignment towards the madness and evil that the monks were renowned for.










Crudely, I laugh to myself when considering, after the horrors I will be responsible for, that I have this matter of alignment well at hand... 










My new 'pet' voided itself in a shaking fit of panic when it beheld the completed fluidic mantras. Had the expedition from last season done this part correctly, this monstrosity would have been my end instead of my dubiously-efficacious familiar.










When the party finishes their pointless memorial services, I send them on an errand into the crevasse to return with the previously-unknown alloys reported to have been found therein. The party takes several days, and suffers the loss of a number of dogs before they bring me the artifact for "preservation for the University".










The first-year staff, charged with maintaining my chests of Mesopotamian Wards, are glad to hear me call for the items. My madness prevents me from feeling sorrow for them and their wives back home, for the radiation will certainly soon disfigure them. Ironically, their duty assignment has rendered them as sterile as this detestable continent.










When the first wards are in place, both the radiation counter and the disfigured summon begin shrieking their warnings.










The piercing wails of lamentation crescendo incrementally with the addition of the Lemurian Apparatum.










And abruptly stops along with the biting winds when the Vaiouer Shackles are set in place.










In the chill silence, surrounded by my now-insane cadre of minions and the deformed yet ravening summon, I call upon the last bit of strength and will to being marching the altar to it's resting location. The crew weep openly at the distance required to travel if we are to have everything in place before the solstice. My glare, fueled by the hating, desirous rage of the Gods That Sleep is all that is necessary to goad them into their deathmarch.










I warn them that the last worker to arrive will be the first to be slung into the twisting maw of the apparatus.









_Final entry found:_

The steppes, whose ice-blasted expanses jut incongruously in the borealian lights, have taken all of the sled dogs, and even some of men who have expressed a type of de-evolution as an effect of exposure to the Device.










How unfortunate that their descent into a biological nightmare did not render them fitting to be harnessed to the sleds. 










When they did fall to exhale their last, tortured breath into the ice, those around them would begin looting the corpse for clothing initially.. but as our proximity to the site of the Altar's resting place increased, the researchers discovered a tendency to cannibalism.










Upon our arrival to the creaking butte, little remained of the party, save for myself and the surprisingly robust familiar found at the basecamp some weeks ago. I find that it has a proclivity for the fluidic channels we've placed throughout the site.










The last of the team collapses, broken in body and spirit, as the capstone to the Altar is put into place.










Immediately, I hear an unearthly chanting - made more horrible than any of the predictive nightmares that have plagued me since childhood by way of their reverberation from the Chacoian Array we plundered from the New Mexican deserts last year..










At first, the sounds streams out unintelligibly; a chant of a thounsand madmen with no cadence or meter, I stabilize the flow of the horrid, summoning words with the Revenant, and am temporarily blinded by the illumination.










While blinded, I hear a tearing, ripping sound and a cacophony of screams. As my vision is regained, I see that the portal to the Gods That Sleep has opened.










As the Earth around me shakes with the flow of life force into the portal,










The last of my sanity is taken as well, and I am left utterly insane as I gaze through the portal to the now-unlocked prison of the Gods deep below the sea.











Weeping and clawing at my eyes as I stand before the Altar, my last glimpse before being blinded by the brilliance of the unleashed power reveals the Gods waking at the bottom of the sea begin to step out of the dreaded portal and lay waste to this world.










The Gods eye me with contempt and hunger, for I will be their first mortal victim in a millennium - I do not resist, for I long for my life to be extinguished after these horrors.


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## Baadboy11

What did I just read?


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## MoeBetta

A tale my man, a tale.


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## bigd603

mr r said:


> hey here is my DIT stand and hood.
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> get better pic soon if any wants it.


Very interesting hardscape, i like the Mayan motif.


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## Jeff52478

*75g diy stand*








Stand is constructed from 2x4's








Covered in 1X pine boards. Doors open full so there is no center brace to work around
Water testing sump made out of a 10 gallon tank








final water test of the plumbing and and finished cabnit


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## ltdan84

As of right now it's just a vision, but I'm thinking of building something like this:








It would be strips of 3/4" MDF laminated together, filled and sanded smooth and the painted with something fairly durable.
Oh, and I stole the one-side closed idea from a previous post in this thread.


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## James (Western Canada)

WOW! There are some BEAUTIFUL stands in this thread....but it looks like there are more wood butchers than welders in the mix around here:wink:
I built a tubular stand for my 90g (48"x18"x24" tall) back in about 2000 or 2001, it's a perimeter frame ie: 2"x1" top & bottom, on the "flat" to give the greatest load bearing area, with 1"x1" legs, inset 1", so that the stand could be sheeted in later to create a cabinet.
The stand is built to match the outside dimensions of the tank (including trim), I don't personally care for stands with a footprint larger than the tank, as it basically becomes a surface for water to land on when doing maintenance.....
I feel the perimeter design is much better than a stand with "feet", as the feet place point loads on the floor. (probably not a big deal on small tanks, or on a concrete basement floor, but can be an issue on larger tanks, or upper floors)

Anyway, if this works, there should be several pics below

Here is a cad drawing of stand, converted to .jpg










Several shots of stand, with the cabinet "shell", which is removeable by simply spinning off four wingnuts on each side. Shell is 3/4 plywood, painted white on inside, with black laminate (formica??) on outside. Sides & front doors held together by piano hinges. (I'm not sure I would do it this way again). Back was left open, easier to run cords, better cooling, NO ONE SEES IT
The studs used to hold the shell onto the frame are just 1/4" ready-rod (aka: allthread) cut to the desired length. The studs are threaded into T-nuts, that were countersunk into the plywood prior to the laminate being glued on.


























Inside View, and closeup of wingnuts

















The studs used to hold the shell onto the frame are just 1/4" ready-rod (aka: allthread) cut to the desired length. The studs are threaded into T-nuts, that were countersunk into the plywood prior to the laminate being glued on.









This is my original stand, which after deciding to make the switch to a wet/dry trickle filter, you can see it proved to be too short for me to make the offset from the bulkheads in bottom of tank to the top of the wet/dry....so a new stand several inches taller was made, and powder coated like the first one. It would have been easier yet to plumb if I had gone even taller, but as it is, the top rail of the tank is TIGHT into my armpit....any taller would mean I would likely need something to stand on while doing tank maintenance, and that's just looking for trouble


















***Forgot to mention: the weight of the bare stand (without shell) is approx 60lbs....haven't done any calcs to figure what the shell weighs, all my books have steel weights in lbs/ft, no plywood

That's the short version, all I can say is after looking through 31 pages in this thread, mine is pretty much a plain vanilla setup

Cheers!
James


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## D3monic

I finally got around to making the canopy this week and got the tank filled. 










The doors look like crap I know, left door is not square. I didn't notice until I stained it. Too lazy to make a new one.


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## Cdohm1

*20 Gal long stand*

This is a stand i made for my 20gal long this cost me about 13$ to make, i had a hard time finding a stand in the stores and when i did find some they where around the 120$ range and where very cheap quality. So went online for DIY ideas found a few but this is what i came up with. i will make a list of materials i used and the measurements so if you like you can make it yourself! :icon_smil 

http://s706.photobucket.com/albums/ww61/razed2/?action=view&current=IMG_0962.jpg
http://s706.photobucket.com/albums/ww61/razed2/?action=view&current=IMG_0963-1.jpg
http://s706.photobucket.com/albums/ww61/razed2/?action=view&current=IMG_0965.jpg
http://s706.photobucket.com/albums/ww61/razed2/?action=view&current=IMG_0966.jpg

Materials:
3-eight foot 2X4's about 2$ ea 
box of deck screws or just wood screws i used 2in screws i would recommend 2 1/2 or 3in tho 

you will need to cut the 2X4's to these lengths
4- 9 1/4 inches 
3- 30 inches (or 4 if your picky doesn't matter tho) 
4- 29 inches (or whatever you want the height to be)

its a straight forward build just build a box using two of your 9 1/4 inch pieces and two of your 30 inch pieces. then just screw the four legs on and then use the 3 remaining pieces as support for the bottom..( for the bottom you can use another 30 in piece for extra support but i just left it with the one).....any extra wood you can just screw underneath for shelves......just look at pics i posted for reference

i plan on sanding and staining the stand later, but for now it works for me :icon_smil any questions feel free to ask.
Update
This is a great stand to build if you are on a budget!
a few months ago i got around to staining my stand in case your interested here it is 
at the bottom you can see i used regular door shims to level it out


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## CL

Stumbled back across this thread... makes me want to set up a new tank just so I can build another stand!


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## ianiwane

Stand I made a while back. Sides are doubled up plywood. 3/4 birch and 1 1/8 sub floor. Back is 1 1/8 sub floor plywood. Front header is 4 pieces of 3/4 in plywood screwed and glued together. About 8 more 3/4 pieces run left to right behind the header. All pieces supported on the 1 1/8" sub floor plywood.


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## takadi

I would comment on your engineering feats, but the big honking swastika that is illuminated with a freaking spotlight is kind of distracting




Uptown193 said:


>


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## vincenz

takadi said:


> I would comment on your engineering feats, but the big honking swastika that is illuminated with a freaking spotlight is kind of distracting


Neo-Nazis like aquariums too, go figure. :eek5:

Anyone have tips on staining MDF?


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## [email protected]

vincenz said:


> Anyone have tips on staining MDF?


 Spilling coffee or tea will stain MDF. A "cold one" will leave a slight ring. I'd not use a water based stain as the water will sink into the MDF faster than it will dry. That will at best, raise whiskers to be sanded down. At worst it could pimple the surface. A gel based stain will probably work.


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## vincenz

[email protected] said:


> Spilling coffee or tea will stain MDF. A "cold one" will leave a slight ring. I'd not use a water based stain as the water will sink into the MDF faster than it will dry. That will at best, raise whiskers to be sanded down. At worst it could pimple the surface. A gel based stain will probably work.


Hm all right, thanks. Maybe I'll try some kind of oil instead.


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## Hoppy

Since MDF has no grain pattern at all it makes no sense to stain it. Just paint it instead. Or, use a colored varnish. Or, use multiple coats of dark stain, which will hide the wood behind it.


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## jcgd

I'm having mine sprayed with lacquer. It's going to cost around $300 though, but it will look professional. The surface has to be perfect as mdf shows everything.

MDF will soak up everything and it's supposed to be very hard to seal.


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## Cyianara69

My 10 gallon stand .. excuse the un-stain piece of shelving at the bottom, didn't know what I wanted to do with the openning so it's just there temporarly while I stain the shelf piece. 

Not sure what I want to do with the lights for the 10g tank, it's just make shift as of right now.


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## vincenz

Hoppy said:


> Since MDF has no grain pattern at all it makes no sense to stain it. Just paint it instead. Or, use a colored varnish. Or, use multiple coats of dark stain, which will hide the wood behind it.


Yeh, I was thinking that. You think a Danish oil in dark walnut finish would look OK? I have the Watco brand. I'm going to get some Home Depot MDF this weekend and try it out on it. I was thinking a few layers of that and then a satin poly to cover it up.


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## Fish Ed

My diy 10 gallon plain-looking cabinet.

Front/outside:








Inside:


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## Hoppy

vincenz said:


> Yeh, I was thinking that. You think a Danish oil in dark walnut finish would look OK? I have the Watco brand. I'm going to get some Home Depot MDF this weekend and try it out on it. I was thinking a few layers of that and then a satin poly to cover it up.


Since you would essentially be painting the MDF with the stain, it would look ok, I think. I used satin polyurethane to finish most of my cabinets and it looks good to me.


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## DanCottle

Im interested in making a stand for my new 40b. I would like to go the route of using just 3/4th inch ply but I dont really have a table saw etc. Does home depot or lowes cut plywood for free?


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## vincenz

DanCottle said:


> Im interested in making a stand for my new 40b. I would like to go the route of using just 3/4th inch ply but I dont really have a table saw etc. Does home depot or lowes cut plywood for free?


Home Depot does the first 2 cuts free. Every cut after that is $1, but most of the time, they won't charge you. Just tip the guy a buck or two if you have a lot of cuts to make. 


In other news, pretty much finished my stand today, just have to square up one of the doors a little and make sure it's perfectly level after the flooring of the room is done. Ended up going with a dark walnut finish, hand rubbed  Satin poly on top. Terrible picture because it was getting dark.


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## CL

Depends on the guy you ask to cut your wood haha. They normally give you four cuts for free before they charge you something like a quarter for every cut, but I've had guys cut wood for me for something like 10 minutes before without charging me a dime.


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## DanCottle

Hey thats good to know!


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## joefish72




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## joefish72




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## AUvet14

I'm getting ready to make a stand an canopy for my 30 gallon. I like bits and pieces of what I see here. I'm planning on doing full inset raised-panel doors on the front. I'm possibly going to do an inlay of some sort but I'm not sure what some good ideas for inlays might be. Any suggestions? I'm just looking for something somewhat subtle and not too complicated but a nice design element. Does anyone have any suggestions?


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## pandamonium

i just finished making my stand for a 40 gallon breeder thank. i used a typical structure (2 boxframes with 4 supports, 4 stabilizing pieces, and 1 piece to prevent twisting in the upper boxframe). i wanted to make it ADA style so i bought panelling from home depot to cover the top, sides, and door. in total it cost me $70, most of which was to cover the panels.


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## halffrozen

Here is a shot of the stand as of yesterday, I made awhile back...


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## sketch804

Here's my DIY 75 gal stand. took me a while to finish but all in all it turned out nicely!





































Thanks everyone because all the posts here were my inspiration for this stand!! 


*My journal of this stand*


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## Ridewithme38

Alpinist said:


> I just finished converting an old 48" angle-iron stand I've had for ever. It's utilitarian, but the look of a plain metal skeleton gets a bit old after awhile.
> 
> So I thought of a way to convert it to a wood stand, while still being able to switch back any time I needed to.
> 
> Here's what it looked like before:
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> I used oak veneer plywood for the ends, poplar for the tops of the front, solid oak for the vertical pieces, pine for the doors, and hemlock for the trim. The back-panel was the hardest part because I hadn't realized the 24x48 piece of plywood wouldn't cover the opening like I'd planned. Some improvisation was required, but it turned out pretty decent.
> 
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> With the door's open. (First experience with european hinges; i love them). Haven't finalized cord management procedures yet. Will be adding CO2 next month so it's still up in the air.
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> For the method of attachment, each panel (front, two ends) is placed just right by some 1x1 guide pieces which sit inside the corner uprights on the metal stand. This centers and elevates the panels into the right place every time. The four corners of each panel are then clipped into the metal stands (no need to drill holes in the metal) with screen window clips. The key to cinching them down and taking out the slack was using the right amount of washers. One problem I ran into frequently was that the metal stand was not perfectly square or vertical, so other improvisations were needed from time to time. Another bonus, I'd paid for this wood months ago in anticipation of another project (router table), but never got around to using it. Some hardware, trim, and the wood for the doors was all I really needed to lay out.
> 
> This would take me less than two minutes to break down back into the metal stand.
> 
> Here's the attachment clips I spoke of:


What are the dimensions of that tank? it looks super long and thin...i love it!


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## xmas_one

Here's a basic stand I did about a year ago for the 90 in my garage. Super basic, super sturdy.


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## bucilini

Here is my take. I needed a custom one only 14" tall. for a 55 gal. 6 12" 4x4 legs wrapped with maple plywood. Under 80$


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## AUvet14

It's not quite finished yet but here is my stand I've been working on this summer. It's for a 30 gallon. It's made out of solid walnut and I have a matching canopy that i'll post pics of once it is finished.

Sent from my HTC One S


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## sayurasem

Hi DIYers! I finally made my own ADA style stand for a 12 gallon long tank!
The dimensions are 36" H x 8.3" W x 36" L
I'm getting some L bracers to secure the stand to the wall because of the tall and thin profile of this stand. What you guys think?

+ What kind of door hinges do you guys use for ADA style stands?


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## crazymittens

That Lovecraft post a few pages back was epic, although the reference appears to have been lost on some people. Hahaha, oh man, I'm sending that around.


Great ideas, guys, thanks!


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## Aquaticus

This thread makes me want to burn my store-bought stand and build a new one!


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## drewsuf82

Aquaticus said:


> This thread makes me want to burn my store-bought stand and build a new one!


This +1


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## samckitt

My first stand I built with a hand circular saw, a router, a belt & a palm sander. And still looked pretty good if I do say so myself. LOL


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## gene4christ

This is my new 90gal. planted project . The stand took me a year to build but it turned out nice . :^)


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## Aquaticus

That looks great! I like the drawer!

One thing I am thinking about adding to my stand is a cabinet lock to keep the kids out (6,4 and 2).


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## gene4christ

This is where I am with it so far . I do not know where that other picture came from LOL although I would love to have a tank that beautiful :icon_smil but I thought it best to remove it to avoid any confusion LOL :^)


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## Cthulhu

Both were built by my father


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## RWaters

Very, very nice! Your dad does good work.


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## gene4christ

Wow ! very nice indeed ! Kudos on the good work ! roud:


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## GreenBliss

Those stands are great, Cthulhu. Beautiful work.


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## cobra

Has to be at least an ADA style or two within the thread!

This is mine built for my 90-H project:


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## emilmiot

*36 Gallon Bowfront Stand*

I came across this thread while poking around in the DIY area, so I thought I would post pictures of a stand I just finished. Aquarium is not set up yet, but my plants should arrive soon, so we're close. I love all the different designs people have come up with. Woodworking is hobby that works well with aquariums and fish keeping!


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## Shogunof89131

Well these are pics of my stand, semi -Diy.

i used an old metal shelf, welded the top to and old metal dumbell rac k to the top and painted it black.

When I get the gumption, I am going to wrap it in Hardibacker and tile the outside with slate.


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## Phusis_Eidos

aczeller said:


> here's one that I finished up last night. 16 outlets, 4x4 framework, 3/4" sides and top with oak rim, doors, and veneer. turned out pretty nice other than forgetting to take the leveling foam into account. I also need to replace the current lighting with a small 12-18" fluorescent light, but other than that, she's good to go. next up is a custom canopy to go with it.
> 
> granted, it's not a planted tank, but it's still a stand. lol.
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> Later,
> Andy



BE CAREFUL WITH THOSE OUTLETS IN THE CABINET! :eek5: I would throw some GFI outlets in there if your going to keep them that way.


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## laqu

Cthulhu said:


> Both were built by my father


umm.. WOW ... :icon_eek:


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## laqu

WHY? OH, WHY? :icon_sad:

tell me ... as I stare at my cheap petsmart $50 stand that i lothe :icon_roll ... why do i subscribe to this thread? :fish1:

why do i torment myself with all this talent and beauty, while i struggle to assemble 'simple' furniture? :icon_sad:

well other then to be dazzeled by all of your telent that is? :smile:


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## hmclaugh

Here's one I built last weekend for my 20g. Frame is 2x4s and it was covered in pine plywood then stained.


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## Aquaticus

Looks great!


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## Phantomlink

I built a custom stand with my dad for my 125 gallon and 75 gallon, since then I bought a 75 gallon stand from the fish store and it does look sexy and was really easy to put together, but the homemade stands I know will never break

The Skeleton:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152163791110045&l=26329655b3

Final product:
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10152163791410045&l=6da745514a


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## wachnlurn

*55g Oak Tank Stand 30" Tall*

Heres my unstained stand. Not as nice as some of the others here, but hey, its my first woodworking project since I was a kid. I'll have to wait 'til spring to finish it outdoors.








The stand was built primarily for storage space and security (from our 1 1/2 year old son) 








Circuit Box I made, I'm a little wary of electricity running under 55 gallons of water. Fits just right! After this pic I drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the rear panel for the cords and ran the filter power cord under the floor paneling.


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## rk923

Here is my white oak stand for my 55g. 
All biscuit jointed, came it pretty good for my first one i think.


Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2


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## Aquaticus

Very nice stand. Love the color and the style.


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## mrramsey

My 72g bow front $100 in the stand


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## hellpoolhall

My 75 gallon stand in progress, still have to "skin" it

















Going to skin the front with doors that have plexiglass in them for viewing purposes. Both sides will also be hinged for access, and the back closed in with plumbing bulkheads to keep everything neat and clean.


----------



## zackariah

Nice stands. Mrramsey how dis you curve the wood?

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2


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## GraphicGr8s

Hope you wore a mask cutting that PT.
I'd never use PT in my house. Especially if you have kids. And I do. Well one.


----------



## tipsy mcstager

no build pic's, (sorry) i did it at work.

used:

3/4 particle board base,(no frameing) 3 4x4 45 degree corner blocks per side, all glued and screwed. (if you use particle board, it has to be sealed!!!!!) i used clear spray on urethane. two readymade kitchen doors i picked up at a lumber store.
(payed like 5bucks a piece for them)

base top:
3/4 oak strips ( i shiplaped the joints). made from old pallets i got at work. braced with 4x4 cross beams. 12"x12" vinyl, "leather" look floor tiles. for that duncan phyfe effect........roud:
(used laminate glue on them)


top cover & sides:
same as the base 

shelfs:
see top cover and sides.................

covered with "pergo" type kitchen flooring, glued on!



1 electrical outlet inside, (i wired the top plug to the flip switch for soon to be hat lights on the top pointing up).
one outlet TV side.and a dimmer switch thats not wired yet.
all to a GFI breaker at the main box.






























































































the best for last..............................:bounce:











it's quite heavy


----------



## tipsy mcstager

Cthulhu said:


> Both were built by my father


 

very,very nice!!
got'a appreciate the craftsmenship in them, real sweet!


----------



## MikeyP

Here's one of my 180 reef I did many moons ago. I have a 220 PDF Vivarium that I am building the same way as I miss that one.

Have built many more but will need to find the pics on one of my computers. I'm not the best at organizing pics! :eek5:



















Very nice stand and canopies everyone has build!


----------



## dr3ww3rd

My Mini M stand


----------



## usgetata

My DIY Ada style 24" stand. It's also my first woodworking project. Funny that my wife now thinks I can build furniture for us!


----------



## tipsy mcstager

I like that!..........very "art-deco" (i think)

is it the photo, or is it a slant front on that tank?


----------



## usgetata

Thanks! It is the photo. The stand is pretty straight. 😁


----------



## hisxlency

where do you guys find the panel covers and doors? Locally at Home Depot and Lowes I see items that cost as much as a normal stand by itself. I have a friend helping me put one together but I cant find cheap panels/doors. Any suggestions?


----------



## tipsy mcstager

long time ago i used a uesd, oak dbl sink (48") vanity, for a 55gal stand.
didn't pay half as much as you would for a "aquarium stand" all i had to do was slap a 3/4" top on it! and it looked sweet!
had swing doors, and a row of pull drawers! it was just as durable (if not more) the any generic stand.


----------



## Hoppy

It should be pretty easy to modify kitchen/bath cabinets to fit the size of most tanks. Then add vertical support in the middle to avoid the top sagging, and it should work great as an aquarium stand. New, assemble it yourself cabinets aren't really cheap though.


----------



## D-Linquent

tipsy mcstager said:


> long time ago i used a uesd, oak dbl sink (48") vanity, for a 55gal stand.
> didn't pay half as much as you would for a "aquarium stand" all i had to do was slap a 3/4" top on it! and it looked sweet!
> had swing doors, and a row of pull drawers! it was just as durable (if not more) the any generic stand.


This is a great idea. I have an extra vanity in my basement. I might have to modify it.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## tipsy mcstager

Hoppy said:


> It should be pretty easy to modify kitchen/bath cabinets to fit the size of most tanks. Then add vertical support in the middle to avoid the top sagging, and it should work great as an aquarium stand. New, assemble it yourself cabinets aren't really cheap though.[/QUOTE]
> 
> 
> depends what you get, some are pricey! i'm a cheapskate, so an emphasis on the word used.....................lol
> 
> after over 3 years mine never sagged, if thats an issue. a used (found-free) granite/stone/slate top would fit the bill without a need to brace:icon_smil


----------



## usgetata

hisxlency said:


> where do you guys find the panel covers and doors? Locally at Home Depot and Lowes I see items that cost as much as a normal stand by itself. I have a friend helping me put one together but I cant find cheap panels/doors. Any suggestions?


I bought my material in a local wood supply store. Pine wood board and laminate are both less than $40 for 4'x8'. Found Europe Hinge and leveling feet from amazon.com. In total material cost was around $300ish because I also had to buy tools like the drill beads and such. For me it's well worth it consider the real ADA 24" stand is $750 plus shipping and it was out of stock!


----------



## jeremy va

Here's another approach: I framed out a stand during construction using 2x6 and 2x4 scraps, drywalled it and put oak flooring scraps on the top. Trimmed it with 1" pine. I made it for a 70G which sorta acts as a divider between the kitchen and living area. I'm still thinking about a background but it is nice to see the tank while doing dishes. I'm not covering up the filter/co2 -- (I like the way they look, thanks oldpunk!) so there are no doors. Pic of tank is during dry start. I was going to use 1" ID galvanized water pipe as DIY hangers for the light fixture -- you can see them thru the glass -- but I got a fixture from Build My Led which has a nice rim mount so I scrapped that idea.


----------



## pelicanincident

*My cheap 20g DIY stand*

Made this over the weekend. Under $40. Could've been cheaper, but I decided to use bolts instead of screws.


----------



## salmon

little project from yesterday. still need to mount the doors, forgot the hinges in the am, as well as formica the sides and top. had all the material but the contact cement was toast, turned to jelly. still not bad for a few hours of casual DIY.


----------



## Calmia22

tipsy mcstager said:


> long time ago i used a uesd, oak dbl sink (48") vanity, for a 55gal stand.
> didn't pay half as much as you would for a "aquarium stand" all i had to do was slap a 3/4" top on it! and it looked sweet!
> had swing doors, and a row of pull drawers! it was just as durable (if not more) the any generic stand.


I did the same for my 40g. I found a 36" cabinet at my local restore for $5. Painted it black, replaced the hinges and knobs. I didn't need to add anything to it, it was already very sturdy. $15 in total, and I trust it a heck of a lot more then I trust the stand for my 75g.


----------



## Rcguerra




----------



## kribkeeper888

My stand from last summer, let it be known Im 16 and have never tried to build anything like that before lol


----------



## sjb1987

kribkeeper888 said:


> My stand from last summer, let it be known Im 16 and have never tried to build anything like that before lol


i remember reading your journal and seeing your stand... ive always liked it... not big on 2 tone but it still turned out great


----------



## dafil

For wabi-kusa


----------



## Colorblizzle

not finished yet


----------



## Hoppy

Colorblizzle said:


> View attachment 122042
> not finished yet


Unless you fill the tank with lead, this should be strong enough.:biggrin:


----------



## Colorblizzle

That's what I keep hearing lol. One person told me I could hold a tractor trailer haha


----------



## tizzite

*the refrigerator*


----------



## Hoppy

tizzite said:


>


That's a very interesting way to support a LED light, and an unusual editorial comment too :icon_lol:


----------



## zackariah

Color bizzel. What are you putting on that stand? It looks crazy strong!


----------



## RunnerUW

What?! A DIY ADA Stand. I'm sure I'm the first one to do this, correct?!  HAHA

I'm pretty sure I browsed through this entire thread and garnered an incredible amount of knowledge for how to build a stand. So thank you for all that gave me some unknown online help. I wouldn't have been able complete this without me lurking on this site.

Here's a couple of pictures of my recently completed stand. It's laminated both inside and out, with two doors instead of one to differentiate it just a little bit. 



















A few more pictures and my lessons learned can be found on my journal page:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=311681


----------



## Colorblizzle

Zachariah: putting a 55g ill post a video

http://youtu.be/4jZ1QhPH6_4


----------



## _FC

Great stand!

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Tapatalk 2


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## rballi

Just put on my first layer of poly. Hood is the next step...


----------



## Alouis605

8/4 mahogany waterfall with hard maple back and shelves


----------



## Gotcha38

Alouis605 said:


> 8/4 mahogany waterfall with hard maple back and shelves


What does the inside of this look like? I really like the style.


----------



## majorwoo

I took this, a stand that was just a 2x4 built:










And painted/covered the bottom:








(it needs more work, the plywood the tank sits on needs some filler/sanding)

and built a canopy:








with easy access:


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## rballi

All finished


----------



## WheeledGoat

holy mama that's a big hood!!


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## rballi

WheeledGoat said:


> holy mama that's a big hood!!


You bet your britches!









The angle of that photo distorted it a bit, but it is about 24" tall. I wanted enough room to run par38 led's eventually..


----------



## NWA-Planted

My industrial style stand lol


























Could probably support a car lol

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2


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## MrAlmostWrong

cobra said:


> Has to be at least an ADA style or two within the thread!
> 
> This is mine built for my 90-H project:


I want this stand. This Petco bought stand just isn't cutting it anymore.


----------



## marineboy

Heres mine angel fish tanks stand in the bedroom tried to copy my bedroom furniture.


----------



## Gafi

how did you guys wind up getting such flat level surfaces to put your tanks on? Did you sift through the plywood piles?


----------



## DiscusIt'sWhats4DinneR

Its more to do with getting the framing straight with 2x4s or whatever you end up using.
when you screw the plywood down onto it it will straighten out any curves if your frame is straight.

build the top section of the frame by laying the wood on a level floor or countertop and screw together and it will come out straight provided that your boards are not curved.

to check this while you are buying your lumber you can just lay the pieces on the floor in the store and test all 4 sides to see if they are straight. you could look down the edge of the board as if it were a gun sight and see if it is curved, etc.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

Straight flat plywood does make it easier to build but it's hard to find. Correct construction techniques eliminate warp problems though. I use dado and groove construction now and it's amazing with slightly warped wood.


----------



## the_deeb

Here's mine:



















Build thread:

my knock-down/flat packable aquarium stand


----------



## khanzer22

Sorry for the crappy pics (too bright outside), here's the stand I just recently finished for my ADA 90P project...


----------



## CrypticLifeStyle

Just noticed this thread. Here's my 30 minute build results from 3-4 months ago. $30- in lumber $10- box of screws. 65G tank


----------



## buddly

Here is one of mine


----------



## inkslinger

So many types of diy tank stands , I also would like to build one for a 150g tank . I have a Oceanic 110g tank and stand and thought of copying it for a 150g tank size {I fig. I use a 5/8 plywood instead of 3/4 , I believe what they they use on there tanks


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## anwin8D

Here is mine. Inspiration from Hydrophyte.


----------



## brymack

Total cost right at $60. Just 2x4s 2x6s a 1/2 pine ply top, and a few trim pieces for front and sides. I already had a partially used can of rub-on satin poly and a piece of stain grade oak ply that I used for the side inserts. I used #8 screws as well as gorilla glue so this thing isn't breaking anytime soon. I'll eventually put some doors on this thing. I wanted it to look black but sort of distressed to match some of our other furniture, so one coat of ebony stain and two coats poly did the trick.


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## Bettatail

DIY stand with the sump system, almost complete.
the tank on top of the stand is 168G


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## Bettatail

anwin8D said:


> Here is mine. Inspiration from Hydrophyte.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dress blue guarding your fish tank?:hihi:


----------



## CL

Low quality pictures of my latest project








After adding some manzanita from Mr. Tom Barr


----------



## hydrophyte

CL said:


> Low quality pictures of my latest project
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After adding some manzanita from Mr. Tom Barr



That looks like something an engineer would build.


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## Hoppy

hydrophyte said:


> That looks like something an engineer would build.


You beat me to it. The odds are about 10 to 1 that you are right!


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## Scorpion

Too exposed.


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## RWaters

I prefer a more finished look. The tank looks good - love the wood -but in my opinion the stand is distracting.


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## CL

hydrophyte said:


> That looks like something an engineer would build.





Hoppy said:


> You beat me to it. The odds are about 10 to 1 that you are right!


:thumbsup:


Scorpion said:


> Too exposed.





RWaters said:


> I prefer a more finished look. The tank looks good - love the wood -but in my opinion the stand is distracting.


The original plan was to stain the wood a darker color (which I will do in the future). As my budget started running low and as I got more excited to get the tank up and running, however, I decided to skip that for now. I did build the stand in a fashion that would allow for panels to be added in the future if I ever wanted to have a less industrial looking piece of furniture.


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## Tvadna

*Frank Lloyd Wight style rack*

I have had three 10 gallon tanks up and running for the last year. One was on decent, but old oak veneered stand and the other two were on one of those popular wire shelving units. 
The wire shelving unit was beginning to bend, and doing water changes were slightly difficult being that they were vertically stacked. The other issues were that the wires and co2 lines criss-crossing back and forth between those three and my larger tanks. Here is what it looked like before.










A good friend of mine used to be a framer and I'm a plumber so we often trade work and help each other out. I brought a few 2x4s and measurements over to his place. About an hour later we had put together a rack and after painting, it looked like this.
I decided to bump the bottom rack out to make access for maintenance easier as well as allowing room for a shelf behind to hide equipment like air pumps.










Here is the finished product, rigged up with lighting, power strips mounted to the framing and tanks in place. I've got room for a fourth and plan on doing so.. I just need to figure out what I want to do with it.










$25 in lumber
$6 pre-finished shelf
$5 decorative right angled bracket
plus all of the years lead blocking for my former QB paid off by him building me a stand
*Total $36*

and yep... that is a beer in the picture


----------



## aquarist

Will have six ten gallons on the top shelf and the two 30 gallons on the bottom shelf. Right now I am weight testing it, have a ten gallon and a 30 gallon setup and running on it currently.


----------



## gus6464

Bettatail said:


> DIY stand with the sump system, almost complete.
> the tank on top of the stand is 168G


How come you did a 90 hose bard to the black unit (UV?) vs going straight?


----------



## Hoppy

Tvadna said:


> I have had three 10 gallon tanks up and running for the last year. One was on decent, but old oak veneered stand and the other two were on one of those popular wire shelving units.
> The wire shelving unit was beginning to bend, and doing water changes were slightly difficult being that they were vertically stacked. The other issues were that the wires and co2 lines criss-crossing back and forth between those three and my larger tanks. Here is what it looked like before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A good friend of mine used to be a framer and I'm a plumber so we often trade work and help each other out. I brought a few 2x4s and measurements over to his place. About an hour later we had put together a rack and after painting, it looked like this.
> I decided to bump the bottom rack out to make access for maintenance easier as well as allowing room for a shelf behind to hide equipment like air pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the finished product, rigged up with lighting, power strips mounted to the framing and tanks in place. I've got room for a fourth and plan on doing so.. I just need to figure out what I want to do with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> $25 in lumber
> $6 pre-finished shelf
> $5 decorative right angled bracket
> plus all of the years lead blocking for my former QB paid off by him building me a stand
> *Total $36*
> 
> and yep... that is a beer in the picture


Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.


----------



## Hoppy

aquarist said:


> Will have six ten gallons on the top shelf and the two 30 gallons on the bottom shelf. Right now I am weight testing it, have a ten gallon and a 30 gallon setup and running on it currently.


I think the shelves are going to sag a lot, enough to make it look bad, if not enough to cause problems for the tanks.


----------



## aquarist

I've had one of the 30 gallons filled on the top shelf already, so I know it'll hold three at least, I can sit them long ways then and fill the shelf. Will be getting the aquariums probably next weekend and we will see =D. I don't plan on putting more than the shelf can hold, ideally six would fit up their perfectly but if it does not look safe I wouldn't risk it.


----------



## BuddhaBoy

aquarist said:


> I've had one of the 30 gallons filled on the top shelf already, so I know it'll hold three at least, I can sit them long ways then and fill the shelf. Will be getting the aquariums probably next weekend and we will see =D. I don't plan on putting more than the shelf can hold, ideally six would fit up their perfectly but if it does not look safe I wouldn't risk it.


I have to agree with hoppy..... That construction doesn't look sturdy enough for the kind of weight loads all that water and glass will put on it, especially over time.

What are those black brackets made of? ABS plastic?

At the very least I highly recommend adding a full center brace running top to bottom. All that weight will be pushing down on those slats, bowing them and eventually popping them away from the sides. 

Good luck with it

And for the fellow with the black stand, I also agree that extra bracing of 2x4 rectangles is a really good idea.


----------



## Topekoms

built this for my 180

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk


----------



## cjipping

Here are my 4 DIY stands. Spent around $50 per stand maybe a bit more. Not the cheapest, but I really like they way they turned out.

The first two I built were from scratch. They are identical in construction with the exception of being drilled mirrored to one anther. That way if I put them back to back the holes (more or less) line up, and if they are next to eachother, then the holes are in the middle. Each holds a 20L above a 10 gallon with a small storage section underneath. Also the top is removable to made the 20s easier to rescape. 





The second pair are 1/2 DIY and 1/2 recycled furniture. They were originally TV stands out of a hotel that was remodeling. Paid $30 for them, cut the top off and shortened the "T.V" section and reattached the top (but with more clearance than in the first stands because they were a bit tight to work on). Then built a new top modeled after the removable top from the first stands (since the design worked out great on the first stands). These stands each hold a 40 over a 20L with plenty of drawer space underneath. Only draw back with these is they are not drilled to hold the tank pumps etc underneath in a drawer, but HOB filters will eliminate most of that issue.


----------



## plaakapong

Hoppy said:


> Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.


This is something everyone should keep in mind when designing a stand.


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## Tvadna

Hoppy said:


> Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.


You are correct in that they are supported by the nails. The framing nails used have a shear strength somewhere in the 200-300lb range.
Water weighs 8.3 lbs/gal and each rack will have 20 gallons for a total of about 166lbs per rack. The four support legs on each rack should evenly distribute the weight which gives us 41lbs/support leg. Each one was nailed 3 times. Assuming the weight is shared fairly evenly by the three nails on each support... it means that each nail is only supporting about 13lbs. 

13lbs per nail is well within their shear strength and even further in my comfort level.

Most stands are built considerably less sturdy. Here is the 30 gallon stand next to the rack. It appears to be a particle board instead of solid lumber like I used. The particle board is 1/2 or 3/4" thick and similar to my construction in that it relys on the shear strength of 2 bolts/side and the vertical legs are not under the horizontal base. It has been holding strong for 10+ years.


















You're correct in saying that it would safer if the vertical legs sat under the rack to support their weight directly but it would also be safer to wear a bullet proof vest and helmet 24/7. Some redundancies aren't necessary...


----------



## aquarist

BuddhaBoy said:


> I have to agree with hoppy..... That construction doesn't look sturdy enough for the kind of weight loads all that water and glass will put on it, especially over time.
> 
> What are those black brackets made of? ABS plastic?
> 
> At the very least I highly recommend adding a full center brace running top to bottom. All that weight will be pushing down on those slats, bowing them and eventually popping them away from the sides.
> 
> Good luck with it
> 
> And for the fellow with the black stand, I also agree that extra bracing of 2x4 rectangles is a really good idea.


The black brackets are ABS I believe, it is a shelf system and was pretty easy to put together. I deigned it similar to what I saw in big discus fish farms, they usually use much larger tanks then I am planning to use and looks like it is a simple 2x4 shelf system most of the time. I may add a center brace or I may not depending on what it looks like when I start adding weight to the top shelf, right now as you can tell in the photos the top shelf is empty but the bottom shelf holds the weight just fine. I am also going to anchor it to the wall, it'll be hard to tip it over as it sits now with all the weight on the bottom but better safe than sorry. I also took a good look at my 180 gallon aquarium stand that was bought from a store, it's made out of really thin wood and there's no center support, so not sure if I will even need one. Here is a picture of a fish farm's aquarium stand, the picture isn't the best but you can get the idea. If you google house of disus you will see a video that shows their aquarium racks better, seems like each tank is held up with four 2x4s around the edge of the aquarium and that's it. I am not saying my shelf is perfect but I am pretty sure with a few minor tweaks it will do exactly what I've designed it to do.


----------



## AGUILAR3

Hoppy said:


> Both the upper and lower tank(s) will be supported entirely by nails or screws in shear, unless you used glue for all joints. Even then, it would be much safer if there were legs under the rectangular frames.




I would just replace the screws/nails with some 4" lag bolts. My 8' long 2x4 shelf is holding roughly 1000+ lbs worth of wheels with zero issues.


----------



## BuddhaBoy

Sounds like you have everything under control 

Just the doomsday prepper in me lol. Better safe than sorry... I can't imagine how id feel if I came home and found my tanks all smashed.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

Tvadna said:


> You are correct in that they are supported by the nails. The framing nails used have a shear strength somewhere in the 200-300lb range.
> Water weighs 8.3 lbs/gal and each rack will have 20 gallons for a total of about 166lbs per rack. The four support legs on each rack should evenly distribute the weight which gives us 41lbs/support leg. Each one was nailed 3 times. Assuming the weight is shared fairly evenly by the three nails on each support... it means that each nail is only supporting about 13lbs.
> 
> 13lbs per nail is well within their shear strength and even further in my comfort level.
> 
> Most stands are built considerably less sturdy. Here is the 30 gallon stand next to the rack. It appears to be a particle board instead of solid lumber like I used. The particle board is 1/2 or 3/4" thick and similar to my construction in that it relys on the shear strength of 2 bolts/side and the vertical legs are not under the horizontal base. It has been holding strong for 10+ years.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You're correct in saying that it would safer if the vertical legs sat under the rack to support their weight directly but it would also be safer to wear a bullet proof vest and helmet 24/7. Some redundancies aren't necessary...


You're comparing a bolt to a nail. Apples and orangutans. You have nothing to prevent racking and you really can't discount the laws of physics vis a vis leverage. That bolt can't pull out and to an extent will prevent racking. 

As for the comparison to the bullet proof vest we might really go with regarding every gun as loaded. It may not be necessary but it is surely prudent.


----------



## chris_ranger

29 gallon stand to replace my over crowded 15 gallon column.i swear the stand weighs more than the tank will when full.
Door will be trimmed to hide the hack job my saw did to my oak plywood. only half way through did i realize use the saw backwards to prevent chipping.
hood will be in the same design with a flip up front panel.
will probably stain it onyx or paint it since the trim i like was only in pine. oak and pine stain too differently for nicer colors.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

chris_ranger said:


> 29 gallon stand to replace my over crowded 15 gallon column.i swear the stand weighs more than the tank will when full.
> Door will be trimmed to hide the hack job my saw did to my oak plywood. only half way through did i realize use the saw backwards to prevent chipping.
> hood will be in the same design with a flip up front panel.
> will probably stain it onyx or paint it since the trim i like was only in pine. oak and pine stain too differently for nicer colors.


Actually you don't need to run the circ saw thru backwards. First off a good quality blade will minimize chipping. Second you cut from the BACK side to put the remaining chipping where it won't be seen.

What strikes me though is your grain runs the wrong way.


----------



## chris_ranger

GraphicGr8s said:


> Actually you don't need to run the circ saw thru backwards. First off a good quality blade will minimize chipping. Second you cut from the BACK side to put the remaining chipping where it won't be seen.
> 
> What strikes me though is your grain runs the wrong way.


I cut the door out after I skinned it so taking it off wasn't happening, too many brads to removed. Wasn't thinking at the time to cut it off the stand. Kind of rushed the skinning before the rain moved in.
It's going to be painted now so grain doesn't matter, I decided I'm already way over budget and stain and poly is out, I've already got some good black paint from my other stand.


----------



## Bettatail

gus6464 said:


> How come you did a 90 hose bard to the black unit (UV?) vs going straight?


I took the last 3/4" ID straight hose barb fitting from the shelf in my local homedepot, and no more in stock, decided not to wait, so pick up the 3/4" ID hose barb elbow adapter instead.

not really care it is straight or 90 degree fittings/adapters, because I use 1" or 3/4" PVS pipe and adapters, much bigger diameter than the original 12mm to 16mm ID hose for the return pump.


----------



## DanielAG

My ADA copy I built with a friend...

There is now a foam pad between the tank and the stand to even out the imperfections in the plywood I used.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

chris_ranger said:


> I cut the door out after I skinned it so taking it off wasn't happening, too many brads to removed. Wasn't thinking at the time to cut it off the stand. Kind of rushed the skinning before the rain moved in.
> It's going to be painted now so grain doesn't matter, I decided I'm already way over budget and stain and poly is out, I've already got some good black paint from my other stand.


For any future cutting where you put it together then need to make the door another method is to mark it out then scribe, with a utility knife, around it. Two scribes the blade width apart will precut the top fibers and make for a cleaner cut. Another method would be to raise the blade up so it is just scoring the top veneer. Then come back and make the final cut. In all cases the blade really should be no deeper than the wood thickness plus an 1/8" to 1/4" more.


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## AaronT

Finally finished this one.  I used a wipe on poly in satin finish and did 3 coats. The inside is a gloss white enamel and the doors have 170° Blum soft close hinges and magnetic tot locks to keep the little guy out. 

Construction is 3/4" MDO, rabbeted, screwed, and glued. The header is doubled up for extra support. I did the veneering myself using raw figured cherry veneer and old school hammer veneering using hot hide glue. It's hard the tell in the picture, but the doors are bookmatched. 

There are a ton of mistakes, but overall I'm pleased with how it turned out. 

From the right side...









This pic is a good representation of the color. 









The inaugural hardscape...


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## Viper

Tank itself has changed a ton since these pictures were taken.


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## brooksie321

Just finished it last night, forgive the crappy bottle caddy, I'm going to get a nice stainless steel deal..


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## HydroMan

This is one that I just built for my office tank. Solid maple with the exception of the plywood panels which have a maple veneer.


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## Hoppy

Very classy! And the proportions look perfect. But, I just happen to love maple as a material for furniture.


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## HydroMan

Thanks Hoppy. I'm fond of maple too. I decided to challenge myself with this one so the doors and sides are all tongue and groove and the top is fastened using dowel pins. The only place I used nails or screws were to support the floor of the cabinet and to attach equipment inside the cabinet.


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## TankFreak420

I don't wanna, actually I do want to share but my camera SUCKS!

Just built this for my new 120g. I have since put a plywood top on and used the rest of the sheet on the back and a little on the sides, will get a better pic when its outside.


















Cost me $30 in screws and 2x3's, had the sheet of 1/2" ply kicking around. I will cover the sides and front with cloth before its done.

Next comes a stand to stack my 40g breeder and 38g tanks.


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## sooflyfisher

I realise this thread hasn't had any action in a while. But figured I'd post my home built stand here instead of starting a new topic. Bought a used 80 gallon a while ago and although I got a stand with it, I wasn't thrilled with it so decided to build my own. 





































Still gotta build the doors and put them on but figured that can wait, I'm anxious to get this tank running!


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## rafini

You can buy DIY kitchen cabinets from places like Home Depot, you could always find matching sized doors (30x15 or something similar) and you can actually get large 32x91 panels for going next to fridges etc. 
They’re all designed to match color and stain so thats an interesting way to make a stand that actually looks like cabinetry.

So you basically build the skeleton and then skin it with fancy finishes.
I haven’t done this per se, but I’ve designed plenty of Kitchens and I don’t see why it couldn’t be done.

In fact some of our custom cabinetry companies would happily price out a spec for a stand. Which gives you unlimited options if you have the cash


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