# WiFi LED controller/timer $12. Anyone try one?



## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

I finally ordered some LED's to complete my Hex tank hood build. I haven't decided what to use for a power supply/driver yet. I have a thousand bricks from old laptops / various computer gear and what not. I also have a few laboratory power supplies that I can use for experimenting until I figure out exactly what I need. I was surfing around for controllers and came across these on Amazon for $29.










For $29. Seemed like it was worth a try but after a little more searching I found the exact same one on e-bay for $12 which was cheap enough for me to buy for experimenting. The specs are 5 independent channels at 4 amps each. It is only a controller and does not come with a powersupply. It has an internal timer that can be used to schedule on/off times.

Has anyone tried one of these for aquariums? I am guessing not... stay tuned for my results. After it gets here on a slow boat from China!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

I've tried them but not really for aquariums..

They are made for constant voltage arrays..which are limiting for our purposes.
Secondly their compatibility w/ various Andriod OS's is annoying at times
Third few have "time programming"..though I haven't researched the dozens of iterations on them..

One thing though, If one finds one w/ suitable software mostcan be modified to run constant current 5V PWM drivers..


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

I purchased:
6 x Cree XM-L2 warm
6 x Cree XM-L2 neutral
6 x Epistar Red
6 x Epistar Green
3 x Epistar Blue
3 x Epistar Royal blue

To build my hood lights with. Along with various lenses (15, 30 and 45 degree) and heatsinks.

I plan on running each set of LED's in series with the Blue and Royal blue on the same series circuit. The voltages on the Cree and Epistar leds are different so I plan on balancing them out with resistors. If that doesn't work I might try running just the R-G-(B/RB) through the controller. I don't plan on driving the CREE XM-L2's at full power for heat management and longevity reasons.

I am pretty comfortable with basic electronics but this is the first time I have delved into HighPower led's so the nuances will be a learning experience. I read the $29 and $12 descriptions pretty thoroughly and they seem identical including the timer capability. For $12 I am really not expecting much... but it seemed worth the gamble to learn about the controller.

All these LEDs are going to be mounted under the wooden portion of this hood on a common heat sink. The big open hex in the center is for future expansion.... if I don't have enough light I will put some heatsinked and fan cooled LED's here. If what I have works well I will purpose this hex cut out for something else... (fish feeder?).


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Hmm.. Running them that way is a bit wasteful and frnakly, w/ a bit of soldering on the controller unnecessary..
Use Meanwell LDD-h's (or L's) for constant current.. Voltage differences become irrelevant..


So far all of these, wired or wireless work the same way..Just need to tap off the gate of the internal MOSFET to get the required 5V PWM for the LDD..
you have 5 channels of control.. I'd suggest designing to use them..

Example:
Connecting high power LEDs to the TC420


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

Great article and very interesting idea. I am guessing the board will be surface mount components so the first thing I will have to do is see if the LDD-x00L will physically fit. If they do line up with the board I might order some LDD-x00L's and give it a try. It looks like LDD-700L would be appropriate for the 3w R-G-(B/RB) LEDS and the LDD-1000L would be appropriate for the CREE XM-L2's.

After re-reading the article I realized he is talking about using the onboard drivers to drive the MOSFETs off board. That would make it much easier than trying to solder the SMD's onto the original surface mount board. I could use the through hole or wire lead versions of the LDD mosfets and it would be a very easy project!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Just need to add a wire from the gate of the internal MOSFET..

ONLY possible catch is if they change the gate circuit either by changing the PWM frequency or voltage..
Last check it was 5V and 960Hz...











Same w/ little manual dimmers..










did manage to fry a gate circuit..

UPDATE:

Lost one of the channels in the tc-420



> I somehow lost a diode on the Cyan channel (cause or effect???) and for some reason the bypass gate wire is causing a malfunction..
> At first thought I lost an LDD but that wasn't the case
> 
> Oddest part was when measuring no load voltage the gate voltage was 1.5 (should be 5) and the output at the diodes was 36 (should be 56V).......
> So something "downstream" of the gate circuit is wonky..


http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/980633-how-use-tc-420-control-ldd-drivers-5.html


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

Excellent! A picture is worth a thousand words! 

Any idea what happened to the channel you lost on your tc-420? Did the onboard MOSFET fry?

:
:
:

Just scanning your thread on this and I see the driver for the onboard MOSFET failed. You keep referencing "Typhoon"... quick google says open source controller.  I LOVE open source projects! The satisfaction of building something yourself but someone else gets the frustration of developing it. I am running both OpenSprinkler and MegaSquirt projects... both excellent projects!
:
:
Typhoon replaced by HurricaneX?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

MOSFETS are effectively bypassed.. Could even be removed if one wished. (not recommended)

not sure but the gate circuit (probably composed of a resistor/transistor drive unit ) failed. May even have taken out the Aduino like "pin" that drives the transistor base (if I am assuming correctly)..
Currently just replaced it w/ a left over Typhon controller.
Will get back to it eventually, though probably nothing I can fix...nor woth spending too much time on..










Your wire would be attached at like the junction to T1
Anything to the left or up could have gone bad.. All SMD components though.


One possibility is that there is a dual power supply.. 1 supplying 5V (to MOSFET gate) another supplying 3.3V to the logic circuit (base of the transistor) T2.

all a bunch of guessing but due to the fact that there is some voltage and current through the damaged circuit R1 or T2 may be bad or weak..IF it is actually designed that way.
As I said, not really worth pursuing ATM...AND only eyeball guessing as to how the TC is designed..

W/out an Oscilloscope and a few more years of knowledge it goes above my pay grade....

Just some fun background info......

https://www.open-homeautomation.com/tag/esp8266/
Dutch but pretty pictures.. 

https://revspace.nl/H801


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Modified, tested, never placed in service..


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

From reading through your thread I started reading about the Typhoon which lead me to the HurricaneX which lead me to the BlueFish mini. The BlueFish mini has really peaked my interest. From what I have read so far I can purchase a BlueFish Mini + IMP wifi card + LDD drivers for each channel and I should be in business. It is more than I was thinking of spending... but seems to be a reasonable price for a 6 port Wifi LED controller without too much hassle?

I am not sure if the full Bluefish would be a better deal? I can't tell if I would need to purchase LDD drivers with the full BlueFish controller? If so the BlueFish mini seems like a better controller?

I haven't delved into the open house automation thread yet. I will start reading there next. Thank you for the links and information!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Bluefish mini is strictly Meanwell LDD-H (and a small subset of LDD-L) 
Full Bluefish is all Meanwell LDD compatible AFAICT and othr 10V PWM 10V analog dim protocols (check, going on memory)
Also comes in a "box" ...

2X the cost.
Run a mini on my 55gal.. 
Works "OK" Prefer better software interface. It's more confusing than necessary..
Also has issues w/ older Android OS's..

Oh and "blinkup" is THE.. STUPIDIST idea ever created. (Personal rant after trying to get it set up for hours.) YMMV..


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

I was reading through the BlueFish manual... the blinkup connection does seem quite hokey! I am sure some programmer thought it was the best idea EVER!  I liked the 5 pages of "What to do when the blinkup doesn't work" section.

Your memory is correct... the comparison says the mini only supports the LDD-H (2~52VDC output) which should be fine for what I need it to do. (The -H seems like it would be the preferred ship)

Do you like your BlueFish mini? Once it is setup and working is it pretty trouble free? Would you go so far as to recommend the BlueFish mini?

Is there something else you would recommend instead? I am comfortable with some soldering... I just don't have the time for a LOT of experimentation and trial-n-error. APEX? I would like to stay around $100 for an LED controller... but it looks like the BlueFish mini would have me pushing the $200 mark once I collect all the pieces... which isn't completely out of the question.

P.S. Thank you for your help, Are you a saltwater guy? I am freshwater only, ph dosing is the only other capability that might be nice.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

No strictly fw...

APEX is 0-10V analog dimming.. Needs external boards for 5V PWM or 10V PWM. Also doesn't generally dim to zero..

High current LDD-L's should work w/ the mini..Minis voltage out on the PWM line is 3.3V.. 
Low current LDD-L's starting at <1000mA is 3.5 to 8V so no go....

pH dosing/control is possible w/ any controller but it is easier w/ some than others..

Haven't advertised for Rob in quite some time but this wil give you some ideas..

No recommendations.. Each has its plusses and minuses..


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Hmm.. Running them that way is a bit wasteful and frnakly, w/ a bit of soldering on the controller unnecessary..
> Use Meanwell LDD-h's (or L's) for constant current.. Voltage differences become irrelevant..


This is the truth.

I also researched RGB controllers. Not only are they constant voltage, but the ability to individually adjust RGB+W channels can be achieved in other ways.

I am using the Meanwell LDD-L drivers and certain models can be controlled with an analog pot.

A more popular method of control is getting a PWM programmable controller to use with the Meanwell drivers.

IOW, you aren't gaining anything from that controller except the ability to control remotely which is almost a non-factor for fish tanks.


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

Thanks Chris, I agree. I have decided to go the Meanwell route. I am open for suggestions on a PWM controller for the Meanwell drivers? Currently I am thinking of getting a Bluefish mini... but I am open to other recommendations?





ChrisX said:


> This is the truth.
> 
> I also researched RGB controllers. Not only are they constant voltage, but the ability to individually adjust RGB+W channels can be achieved in other ways.
> 
> ...


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

Oughtsix said:


> Thanks Chris, I agree. I have decided to go the Meanwell route. I am open for suggestions on a PWM controller for the Meanwell drivers? Currently I am thinking of getting a Bluefish mini... but I am open to other recommendations?



If you need programmable control, JeffKrol can make suggestions, I am sure.

I have LDD-L 1200 drivers, one each for RGB channels, and control them with analog pots. 

All you need are a buck converter ($1) to lower voltage to 10v and a couple 500K pots per channel. This is for those who dont want the complexity of a programmer. I have a thread somewhere in DIY that shows this. There are a bunch of threads showing how to use commercial and hacked controllers.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Depends on needs... 
HurricaneX Digital LED Controller
Temp circuit for probe
Case included 

Currently at $74 (box included) it's a pretty good deal. Would need to know how many channels since 4 is "base" package..

Storm X w/ case would be around $110
Fancier w/ a dedicated fan circuit ..
16 channels . not all useable.. see ded fan pin..
no case included


Bluefish mini. WIFI 6 channels..No case

TC-420 mod.. Basic tether to laptop 5 channels

BTW there is a wireless TC out there..


> TC421 DC12-24V new WIFI connect time programmable controller with 5CH for LEDs


Probably still 8 bit dimming
$30 plus change.. no idea of how it works though..
Chinglish type software..




> Pleasure you
> ^_^


So wireless/wired...........channel #'s................case...........dimming steps.......ect..
Make a list of wants/needs....


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

opps...


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

I am new to this so I am not 100% sure what I want. I believe I am looking for:
1) 5 channels. Red, Green, Blue/Royal blue, warm white, neutral white (LEDs and lenses alread ordered)
2) I am hoping to fullfill 2 main goals... medium to high light levels for plant growth. The ability to balance the 5 channels to provide a pleasing appearance to the aquarium (I purchased the green leds knowing they will not contribute to plant growth but figured they would allow for better balanced light for a more pleasing appearance)
3) Timer to turn the lights on in the morning and off at night.
4) Fade in in the morning and fade out at night would be nice but I don't think it is completely necessary.
5) Thunderstorms sound like a neat affect that would get old after about the 5th time I am guessing?
6) Pretty reliable, not too complicated, set it and forget it.
7) I have 6 LED's for each channel/color.
8) I am hoping for passive cooling, no fan if Ican get away with it. I will add fans if I have to. I paid extra for the CREE LEDs to be mounted on Sinkpads with piece of copper running all the way through the star board for better thermal conductivity to my heat sink.
9) It would be nice to be able to contain all the circuitry in the hood so a low profile controller and driver would be nice BUT I can put everything in the stand if Ineed to.

I have considered everything from the Bluefish mini to a mechanical timer with 5 x Meanwell 60 48D with 5 potentiometers. The Warm and Neutral whites are Cree XM-L and XM-L2 and the R-G-B channels are 3 watt LEDs so I believe they would need a lower power driver than the Meanwell 60-48D.

My plants are pretty small currently so I want high light RIGHT NOW so they fill in the aquarium quickly then I am thinking I will turn down the light level for sustained slow growth... yeah, I am not impatient or anything. 

Thank you for the help!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Bluefish mini is about the size of an LDD..
5 LDD board is a large candy bar..(added $20-ish)

ps's bigger obviously..

all shipped from USA so no long wait times..

Close to the most expensive option..

Discard the 60-48D option.. trust me.. 

pick one.. upgrade or downgrade as you want......


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

60-48D = enough said, I trust you.

I am leaning towards the Bluefish mini. Do I need to order the Gimp wireless card seperately or does it come with one?

Will the LDD-700H be appropriate for the 3w colored LEDs and the higher wattage CREE LEDs? If you believe so I trust you!

I am ready to order tonight. Do you have a preferred vendor you would recommend?

$9.99 for the enclosure... I think that is Stevesleds?

Thank you!

Never mind, It comes with the Imp card and I am pretty sure that enclosure is only available a Steves... Thanks again!


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Size of LDD's is your choice.. Just remember the higher the mA the more heat.
The lower the mA the more efficient the LED w/ the trade-off of less photons..

suggest cyan over green and photo red or deep red over red..
Not to hype steves but @ $2 each the sunplus cool white (unk. K value but suspect they would chart no less than 5000K) and deep red are nice chips..
White at 1A is a 3.5W chip..
Note though that these have wide beam angles..
Luxeon products are known to have better "continuity" in phosphors than the CREE series..
So LDD 1A for white 700mA for deep red
Chip choice will always decide LDD

Case for the Bluefish is kind of hokey but I personally got tired of flopping circuit boards..




> 6 x Cree XM-L2 warm
> 6 x Cool white Luxeon
> 6 x Luxeon Deep red
> 6 x Luxeon cyan
> 3 (or 6 since RB was tossed) x Epistar Blue


All can be run at 1A...except suggest cyan and deep red at 700mA

Or: 








Add blue..
Can't go wrong w/ the CREEs or Luxeons..
Epistar and Bridelux are really behind in the Lumens/watt category..

BTW seems like a lot of watts for that tank.. What are the dimensions?

Bit fancier.. and more costly...










JUST FYI's........
Problem is at this price might as well throw a Radion xr15 gen4 fw in there...........


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## ChrisX (May 28, 2017)

jeffkrol said:


> Case for the Bluefish is kind of hokey but I personally got tired of flopping circuit boards..


Don't recommend the TC420 anymore?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

ChrisX said:


> Don't recommend the TC420 anymore?


It was always and still will be a cheap alternative to other controllers..
Can't recommend the TC-421 (wireless) because it hasn't been "tested" ..

Personally I currently don't have a laptop for ease of reprogramming w/ out removing it from the tank.

O/P was leaning wireless..and a TC-421 would be $70 cheaper than a Bluefish Mini..but no idea if they changed the gate voltage/frequency..


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> BTW seems like a lot of watts for that tank.. What are the dimensions?


My tank is a six sided octagon tank (according to the previous owner :laugh2: ) that is 24" across the flats and 24" deep. Yes, I am sure I will have blind fish within a week.

I decided to go with 6x of the LEDs for an easy symmetrical layout in the hexagon hood... but, yes, more photons than should be needed for the tank. I figure I can always scale back the light levels for thermal management.

I added the Cyan chips to my order. I am confident the Luxon Deep Reds are better diodes than the red ones I already have on order but I think I am going to give the ones I have a try first. Like you pointed out I already have a lot of wattage / Lums in this tank. 

I also added a couple of the LDD-1000H drivers on top of the LDD-700H drivers to play with. I am interested to see what the Cree XM-L2 warm and Cree XP-L cool white LEDs will do. Like you stated they will probably end up on the 700H's for heat management reasons. Or maybe I will just keep them scaled down to 70% or so on the LDD-1000H's and have really impressive thunder storms! ...and blind fish.

I looked up the TC-421 and it does look interesting and inexpensive but decided to go with the BlueFish mini because it would not require any modding.

Thank you for all the help and information! I have really learned a lot!


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

I received my Steve's Led's order today... very fast delivery!

I don't understand the Sharkbite connectors on the LDD driver board? When I push in a wire nothing grabs onto the wire? Do I need to use a heavy 14 or 16 gauge wire? I think I prefer good old screw clamp connectors. The little 24 gauge wires that came with the BlueFish mini definitely seem too small for these connectors? What am I missing?

I know the LDD board is supposed to be a generic board and it does feel of good quality. It seems really unfortunate that Steves doesn't offer a custom LDD board specifically for the BlueFish mini. They could have put a pin edge connector on the LDD board that the BlueFish could just plug into. Then they could have included a socket for a DC-DC convertor to drop the LDD power down to 12v power for the BlueFish mini board. This would have saved a lot of messy wiring!

My LED's are on their way from China... I am looking forwards to connecting everything up! My first attempt at connecting to the BlueFish mini by blinking failed. I removed the Bluefish mini from the plastic case and touched the Imp to my phonec screen and the second attempt at blinking was sucessful. The BlueFish android app isn't the prettiest I have ever seen but should be very sufficient for my use.

Help me understand the Sharkbite connectors please?!?!?!?


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

After considering several options on how to wire the BlueFish mini neatly I ended up on ebay and purchased a 2 x 7 (14 pin) IDC ribbon cable. A 14pin IDC breakout board with screw terminals. A 12v-55v to 12v buck converter. I went for all US sources so hopefully they will arrive around the same time as the LEDs. All 3 pieces were about $25 including shipping. Seems like it should be a much cleaner install than the 24gauge jumpers that came with the BlueFish board.

I measured the pin connector spacing on the BlueFish mini at .1" or 2.54mm. I am PRETTY SURE I measured that correctly.


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## Oughtsix (Apr 8, 2011)

Here is my test board. Just need some LEDs.


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