# LED lighting worth the $$$$



## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

So I really, really want to get some new light systms for my tanks. I currently am using flourescent lights. I am interested in the LED systems but WOW!!!! are they super expensive. Just for my 55 gallon alone, I'm looking at $1500 for a complete setup. Any thoughts??

:frown: :eek5:


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## puopg (Sep 16, 2012)

Get an ATI dimmable. Way better price than that $1500 LED setup.


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## pmcarbrey (Jan 19, 2013)

$1500 for a 55??? Where in the world are you looking? a decent LED fixture will run less than $300
Look at the finnex fixtures for a good starting point


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

Finnex Ray II, 48 inches long, $169 from Finnex. That's $1300+ dollars less than $1500.


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## pmcarbrey (Jan 19, 2013)

TexasCichlid said:


> Finnex Ray II, 48 inches long, $169 from Finnex. That's $1300+ dollars less than $1500.


I don't know where on earth he got $1500, unless maybe it was meant to read $150? :icon_ques


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

pmcarbrey said:


> I don't know where on earth he got $1500, unless maybe it was meant to read $150? :icon_ques


I'm guessing a local aquarium shop that sells high end reef LED systems.


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## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

AquaRay systems has tiles for $330 each. I was told I need 3 of them. Plus all the stuff to hang it. I have my lights suspended from the ceiling. Incredible! Well, on the Finnex Ray II system, do they work on freshwater planted aquariums?

Can't say who gave these prices. A frequent visiter and dealer of TPT.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

For 1500, you could get 3 AI Vegas and a controller. Now THAT'd be awesome.


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## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

I see the Finnex are for saltwater tanks. Does anyone use them successfully on freshwater? Plus I want to hang them. Oh, and I have a controller already.


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## pmcarbrey (Jan 19, 2013)

Never ever ever listen to someone trying to sell you pricey equipment lol, take everything they say with a grain of salt and always check other sources!

Finnex are very often used by freshwater enthusiasts, search ray 2 or finnex and you'll doubtless find a number of threads on the subject


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## sarahspins (Sep 24, 2012)

Finnex are made with different LED's for different applications.. the 7000k are for plants. Lots of us have them and use them with great success (I have a ray2 on a 10g, and fugerays on a 4g and a 6.6g). I am considering replacing the T5HO on my 55 gallon with a Ray2 when it is time to replace my bulbs


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## Pyrojodge (Feb 4, 2011)

I have now purchased 4 of them and got rid of all florescents...


Finnex is the way to go, hands down!


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## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

Pyrojodge said:


> I have now purchased 4 of them and got rid of all florescents...
> 
> 
> Finnex is the way to go, hands down!


 
how would I hang them?


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## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

sarahspins said:


> Finnex are made with different LED's for different applications.. the 7000k are for plants. Lots of us have them and use them with great success (I have a ray2 on a 10g, and fugerays on a 4g and a 6.6g). I am considering replacing the T5HO on my 55 gallon with a Ray2 when it is time to replace my bulbs


 
Ok, so the RayII looks good, but they have many. Which model for freshwater. planted? I like the Finnex Ray II Ultra Slim LED DS - Dual 7000k


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## fearsome (Feb 16, 2013)

What does your light hanging situation look like? Got a pic?


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## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

No pics, but its your basic four small but long chains with hooks to all four corners hanging from the ceiling. 
I suppose I could see if I could put some drill small holes in the corners of the light fixture to hang the hooks. The ones I have on now look good and do an awesome job of keeping it steady and straight. Thanks for all the feedback. I have my eyes on the Finnex system and it has good reviews, plus all you folk like it.


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## pmcarbrey (Jan 19, 2013)

Yep, it's a great fixture, and since we saved you ~$1300 go ahead and send me one when you order! :icon_mrgr


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## fearsome (Feb 16, 2013)

Well the ray 2 comes with a clamp like side mechanism and if you have 4 hooks I bet you could just remove the screws and put the hoots in the screw holes.


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## xiaoxiy (Dec 18, 2012)

You could run a 160W Maxspect Razer 8000k for $500.


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## hedge_fund (Jan 1, 2006)

I purchased the RAY2 LED lighting about 4 months ago for 100 bucks. Yesterday I purchased the ATI dimmeble fixture for 570 bucks to replace the LED lighting. Sure, the LED lights look nice in pics etc. but I find T5s to produce much better growth and coloring of the plants. LED lights are not yet proven.....

I get "decent" growth with LEDs but nothing spectacular.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=248426&highlight=


Why T5’s:
1. Tried and True Method: T5’s are a proven method for growing all types of coral including sps corals and clams.
2. More Vibrant Colors: Compared to other lighting options T5 bulbs come in a wide variety of unique color spectrums which offers greater flexibility. And with T5 bulbs costing about $20 each, it’s inexpensive to “play” with different color combinations.
3. Superior Light Balance: T5's are a linear source of light, not a point source of light so plants don't have a particular point to grow towards. This produces plants that are typically much fuller than ones grown under point sources of light like metal halides or LED’s.


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## zimbo (Oct 8, 2011)

hedge_fund said:


> LED lights are not yet proven.....
> 
> I can't speak for the Finnex Ray2's, although i will be getting some here in the next few months, however, i will say that Kessil's LEDs do work incredibly well. So i'd be hesitant to say LED's are unproven. I get incredible growth rates out of them when combined with a decent substrate, CO2 and proper fert dosing. Significantly more and healthier growth than either PC's, T5HO, or MH's i might add as well. With bulb costs the way they are, and LED results I've had, i'd never look at another fluorescent fixture again.


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## Steve001 (Feb 26, 2011)

hedge_fund said:


> I purchased the RAY2 LED lighting about 4 months ago for 100 bucks. Yesterday I purchased the ATI dimmeble fixture for 570 bucks to replace the LED lighting. Sure, the LED lights look nice in pics etc. but I find T5s to produce much better growth and coloring of the plants. LED lights are not yet proven.....
> 
> I get "decent" growth with LEDs but nothing spectacular.
> 
> ...


You've expressed opinions that's all.
1. We grow plants not coral which respond to some different wavelengths.

2. We hobbyists do not want unique color spectrums necessitating multiple color tubes. We want a single source of light that produces the right mix of colors thus creating good PAR, CRI [ for visual aesthetics ] and Kelvin temperature. At this time all single sources of light fall short save one which is plasma lighting. Vibrant colors. While that may be true, led's in multiple color outputs can just as easily accomplish all T5 can do while saving money in the long run because of their long life span. There are readily available leds fixtures in linear style that would not cause plants to point in one direction. Btw, the Sun is considered a point source.

3. As I just stated. By using multi-color leds it's practical to achieve superior light balance giving plants and humans everything they need to be happy yet not causing clutter above the tank. Considering light is light no matter the source, I don't know why T5's would create fuller looking plants.


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## hedge_fund (Jan 1, 2006)

Steve001 said:


> You've expressed opinions that's all.
> 1. We grow plants not coral which respond to some different wavelengths.
> 
> 2. We hobbyists do not want unique color spectrums necessitating multiple color tubes. We want a single source of light that produces the right mix of colors thus creating good PAR, CRI [ for visual aesthetics ] and Kelvin temperature. At this time all single sources of light fall short save one which is plasma lighting. Vibrant colors. While that may be true, led's in multiple color outputs can just as easily accomplish all T5 can do while saving money in the long run because of their long life span. There are readily available leds fixtures in linear style that would not cause plants to point in one direction. Btw, the Sun is considered a point source.
> ...


It said corals since it was a copy and paste from reef geek.com. Same can be applied to freshwater plants.

To add....most of the best plant growers on the forum do not use LEDs. I have two tanks and the one with T5s gets better growth. Granted, I am using a cheap 100 dollar Finnex Ray2 light.

My friend also has the AquaIllumination Sol light and it does not grow plants well for him.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I vaguely recall a thread in the DIY forum on a way to easily hang a Finnex light above the tank. Search that forum for Finnex to find it.


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## dthb4438 (Nov 12, 2007)

Hoppy said:


> I vaguely recall a thread in the DIY forum on a way to easily hang a Finnex light above the tank. Search that forum for Finnex to find it.


Thanks Hoppy! I think I will look at that thread. I am so tired of replacing bulbs and I forget when I install them so I never know when to change them. I will be placing my compact fluorescent fixtures up on the swap and shop soon.


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

I run the ray 2 on a few tanks, cfl's, t5ho's, wingo led, and several LED Flood lights.

regarding the led's for plant growth, i do not see the lush greed and reds that i can get out of the t5ho and 6500k cfl's. This is only visible if in a well established tank over a period of several months where i have been switching lamps to assess growth rates.

LEDs are great lamps and very power efficient. The only LED's which have helped boost plant growth are the Wingo LEDs which have the RGB adjustment. these are not slim profiled or sexy but the color calibration is worth its weight in gold.


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## Steve001 (Feb 26, 2011)

acitydweller said:


> I run the ray 2 on a few tanks, cfl's, t5ho's, wingo led, and several LED Flood lights.
> 
> regarding the led's for plant growth, i do not see the lush greed and reds that i can get out of the t5ho and 6500k cfl's. This is only visible if in a well established tank over a period of several months where i have been switching lamps to assess growth rates.
> 
> LEDs are great lamps and very power efficient. The only LED's which have helped boost plant growth are the Wingo LEDs which have the RGB adjustment. these are not slim profiled or sexy but the color calibration is worth its weight in gold.


While poking around I came across this thread on Wingo Led's http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=162783
But I feel the color temperature is much too high. It should be around 5500K-5900K


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## hedge_fund (Jan 1, 2006)

acitydweller said:


> I run the ray 2 on a few tanks, cfl's, t5ho's, wingo led, and several LED Flood lights.
> 
> regarding the led's for plant growth, i do not see the lush greed and reds that i can get out of the t5ho and 6500k cfl's. This is only visible if in a well established tank over a period of several months where i have been switching lamps to assess growth rates.
> 
> LEDs are great lamps and very power efficient. The only LED's which have helped boost plant growth are the Wingo LEDs which have the RGB adjustment. these are not slim profiled or sexy but the color calibration is worth its weight in gold.


Nice, glad someone else noticed this as well. :thumbsup:

Sure, you can grow plants with most LEDs but if you are into rare stuff you might run into problems. Lights are the engine of the entire setup so you better do your research. Don't get me wrong, I still like my Finnex Ray2 but it's most likely going over my shrimp tank instead of the planted ADA.


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## Arusso713 (Sep 11, 2012)

hedge_fund said:


> I purchased the RAY2 LED lighting about 4 months ago for 100 bucks. Yesterday I purchased the ATI dimmeble fixture for 570 bucks to replace the LED lighting. Sure, the LED lights look nice in pics etc. but I find T5s to produce much better growth and coloring of the plants. LED lights are not yet proven.....
> 
> I get "decent" growth with LEDs but nothing spectacular.
> 
> ...


I feel the same way. Plus right now LEDs are seriously over priced, and don't save you that much money over t5s. Home Depot sells T5 Ho 6700k 48" for $10.00.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

dthb4438 said:


> So I really, really want to get some new light systms for my tanks. I currently am using flourescent lights. I am interested in the LED systems but WOW!!!! are they super expensive. Just for my 55 gallon alone, I'm looking at $1500 for a complete setup. Any thoughts??
> 
> :frown: :eek5:


Hi dthb4438,

I agree, $1,500 for a complete set up is unreasonable. The 48" Finnex FugeRAY II Daylight is a 32 watt fixture that retails for about $180 or you can retrofit an existing 48" (or build a DIY) fixture with 52 watts of LED for less than $200. 

What are you hoping to accomplish with your new lighting system; what is your goal?

AH Supply Retrofit Kit mounted in old strip light









45 Gallon tall (24" deep) with AH Supply Retrofit


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

I think if you keep exotic plants, and are new to co2, the deficiency in other areas likely be outweight as the blance between nutrients, ferts or co2 dosages would be a struggle for most hobbyists attempting to establish an equilibrium. Its only after one advances past this stage that one can see the pros/cons without factoring the basic newbie problems into the diagnosis. 

Ive seen UG grow yellowish and not green, the most exotic ludwigias turn a pale red (almost peachish), while fussy plants that are less kelvin specific are booming like Elantine Tiandra, Parkeri, glosso, various mosses.

missing the color temperature mark is my guess while light intensity is more than ample. Im going to switch over the wingoled lamp over my co2 tank in a month or so after the carpet fills in to see if the same growth rate can be maintained.

Shrimp, fish and mosses are less fussy and I have no doubt the ray2's can keep some of our hobby tanks looking gorgeous but be aware if you are getting serious about trying your hand at some difficult plant species, that this limiting may come into play at some point. 

The RGB adjustable LEDs are less prone as I have seen some AMAZING growth in side by side tests growing peacock moss mounted on driftwood in different tanks planted simultaneously getting the same amount of dosing, photo period and even water current. remember that what is advertised in these models is perhaps the range of kelvin while the individual r g b is adjustable.

LED Floodlamps have certainly surprised me in many ways. I would say they are a poor man's solution (or gateway drug) to quality intense lighting, consideration is certainly needed before delving into this option as most may opt for either an over powered unit or one that inadequately lights up their tank...


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## Fishmommy (Feb 16, 2013)

hmmm... learning alot here!
So if I outfit my tank with LEDs in the 6500K range, and I find my reds washing out, what color should I add? Blue? I am wondering if I can just buy AH Supply LED and retrofit my existing canopy fixtures, and then maybe add a blue strip later?


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

Fishmommy said:


> hmmm... learning alot here!
> So if I outfit my tank with LEDs in the 6500K range, and I find my reds washing out, what color should I add? Blue? I am wondering if I can just buy AH Supply LED and retrofit my existing canopy fixtures, and then maybe add a blue strip later?


HI FM,

If the lamps are hitting the 6500k mark then in theory everything should be fine and there would be no change in leaf color from what you are accustomed to unless the aquarium light wasnt using growlight bulbs.

Before making any light changes, make sure the tank is properly dosed with Iron and necessary nutrients at the root level. In fairness its best to rule out any fertilizer deficiencies which could be rectified with either root tabs or fe dosing in the water column.

Plants benefit from the Red and Blue spectrum of light so testing for one or both would tell you definitively which would help in your situation. Ime, the red lights triggered the fastest new growth in my mosses while the blue lights made the moss grow wide, thicker and more lush.


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

Fishmommy said:


> hmmm... learning alot here!
> So if I outfit my tank with LEDs in the 6500K range, and I find my reds washing out, what color should I add? Blue? I am wondering if I can just buy AH Supply LED and retrofit my existing canopy fixtures, and then maybe add a blue strip later?


Hi Fishmommy,

You pose a very interesting question. One of the drawbacks of most LED fixtures is the fact that they have a "fixed" color spectrum (unless they have independently adjustable LEDs). However, can we use a fixed 6400K LED lamp array for good plant growth and add a LED strip light (like these) to manipulate the visual spectrum to our individual tastes like making our 'reds' pop?


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## Fishmommy (Feb 16, 2013)

Exactly.
I currently swear by 10,000 k lighting to get my reds at their best. I hope I can get similar results from LED lighting with a little experimentation.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## frrok (May 22, 2011)

I would say the that person has some great results with LEDs. Specifically Aquarays.


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## Fishmommy (Feb 16, 2013)

I am interested in the GroBeam ultra tiles but can't seem to find out what aquarium footprint each one can light...


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## scapegoat (Jun 3, 2010)

buildmyled.com

i honestly think they're blowing the competition away with the pricing.


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

I've seen some folks chime in saying that LEDs are not proven to grow plants, or that LEDs can't grow red plants. I have attached a couple of photos. The first photo is from 10 days ago, shortly after I switched from a Finnex Ray II to a Finnex Fugeray ( lower light ) on my 60p. I switched because I got tired of trimming 300+ stems of blyxa every month and a half or so. The second and third photos are from a few minutes ago. Normally I clean the tank, replant stauro that has come up and do some trimming before snapping pictures, but I felt I needed to post this. You can see that my plants are STILL growing great, despite having half the PAR as the Ray II. I also added some ludwigia red I had laying around to grow out as an experiment in my tank. You can clearly see that LEDs grow red plants fine, especially considering my tank is not high light anymore. The very last photo is from before my last trim. 











Today





















Before trimming


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## scapegoat (Jun 3, 2010)

^ my red tiger lotus is doing quite well too under LEDs


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## NevetsG (Feb 9, 2013)

*Lots to intake here*

I have a 60 gal tall. only bout 13" inches wide and 48 long. I want to get a led fixture for it. Would the ray 2 be my best bet. I only plan on having a few plants. I def. want Dwarf Baby tears in there. What do you think?


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

NevetsG said:


> I have a 60 gal tall. only bout 13" inches wide and 48 long. I want to get a led fixture for it. Would the ray 2 be my best bet. I only plan on having a few plants. I def. want Dwarf Baby tears in there. What do you think?


Are you going to have CO2? A nice baby tears carpet can really benefit from it. I have seen some people go DSM and use medium light with no CO2 and still get it to grow nicely, though. It will be a rough transition from DSM to submersed with no CO2, though. A Ray II will give you medium light, however.


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## veryzer (Oct 13, 2009)

TexasCichlid said:


> I've seen some folks chime in saying that LEDs are not proven to grow plants, or that LEDs can't grow red plants. I have attached a couple of photos. The first photo is from 10 days ago, shortly after I switched from a Finnex Ray II to a Finnex Fugeray ( lower light ) on my 60p. I switched because I got tired of trimming 300+ stems of blyxa every month and a half or so. The second and third photos are from a few minutes ago. Normally I clean the tank, replant stauro that has come up and do some trimming before snapping pictures, but I felt I needed to post this. You can see that my plants are STILL growing great, despite having half the PAR as the Ray II. I also added some ludwigia red I had laying around to grow out as an experiment in my tank. You can clearly see that LEDs grow red plants fine, especially considering my tank is not high light anymore. The very last photo is from before my last trim.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


How tall does that blyxa get??? I was thinking of using it as a foreground to midground transition plant.

I'm very happy with my buildmyled fixture as well. Yes, they're customizable, but I really like the planted spectrum with both red and blue leds.


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

I've had the blyxa grow out of the water and sent out flowers. I have a 14" deep tank. Cannot say for sure how much more it would have grown up, but at 8 inches tall or so it really seems to start to spread laterally. Replanting it often will keep it a particular size you are looking for. It's not really trimmable otherwise.


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## Fishmommy (Feb 16, 2013)

Incidentally, I am an avid terrarium gardener and switched from CFL to LED on many of my setups over the past year and the plants LOVE it.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## mrkookm (Apr 4, 2007)

[quote{buildmyled.com

i honestly think they're blowing the competition away with the pricing.[/quote]

They definitely have the customization aspect down, but IMO they cater for smaller/shallower tanks. For someone wanting more intensity they lack in that department and to get the intensity you have to buy more fixtures which brings up the cost. If they had wattage options that would be great.




TexasCichlid said:


> I've seen some folks chime in saying that LEDs are not proven to grow plants, or that LEDs can't grow red plants. I have attached a couple of photos. The first photo is from 10 days ago, shortly after I switched from a Finnex Ray II to a Finnex Fugeray ( lower light ) on my 60p. I switched because I got tired of trimming 300+ stems of blyxa every month and a half or so. The second and third photos are from a few minutes ago. Normally I clean the tank, replant stauro that has come up and do some trimming before snapping pictures, but I felt I needed to post this. You can see that my plants are STILL growing great, despite having half the PAR as the Ray II. I also added some ludwigia red I had laying around to grow out as an experiment in my tank. You can clearly see that LEDs grow red plants fine, especially considering my tank is not high light anymore. The very last photo is from before my last trim.


While I do not agree with anyone that says LED cannot grow plants since that's ridiculous. What I do agree with is that it cannot make colors pop like pop like a T5HO can. Not to mention optimizing even further is next to nil without a lot of work.

Your tank and plants look very nice and healthy, so props for that, but the plant you are showing is naturally a true Red plant and as you've said the tank is only 14in H. 


Ludwigia Repens X Arciata and a plant I don't even consider a Red Plant:


















from my iP5 via Tapa 2


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## NevetsG (Feb 9, 2013)

TexasCichlid said:


> Are you going to have CO2? A nice baby tears carpet can really benefit from it. I have seen some people go DSM and use medium light with no CO2 and still get it to grow nicely, though. It will be a rough transition from DSM to submersed with no CO2, though. A Ray II will give you medium light, however.


Yea i am trying to figure out what type of co2 system to use. My other thought in lighting would have been the marineland double bright led. I dont know much about light fixtures and such. what exactly does DSM mean. Sorry.


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## samee (Oct 14, 2011)

Im going to bump this thread because Im VERY interested in this subject. Im thinking of moving to ray 2s from my T8s but red colours mean alot to me. I want to know which plants would not show colours? You can check my tank journal in my sig. Im growing Rotala Mini Butterfly, Rotala Macranda 'Japan Red' and Rotala sp 'H ra' to their max colours. The only thing limiting them atm is space and shade from other plants. My 45 gal has a 15" depth. I had a T5HO but it didnt make any difference. So I sold it. Now that I have T8, I really dont want to change bulb every what? 4 or 8 months? I want to go LED BUT in the end I dont want my lights to be a limiting factor (considering my nutrients, co2 and tank condition are at their peak/ideal). 

So when you guys say cant pop out the true colours of some of the hard to grow plants, which ones are they?


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

samee said:


> Im going to bump this thread because Im VERY interested in this subject. Im thinking of moving to ray 2s from my T8s but red colours mean alot to me. I want to know which plants would not show colours? You can check my tank journal in my sig. Im growing Rotala Mini Butterfly, Rotala Macranda 'Japan Red' and Rotala sp 'H ra' to their max colours. The only thing limiting them atm is space and shade from other plants. My 45 gal has a 15" depth. I had a T5HO but it didnt make any difference. So I sold it. Now that I have T8, I really dont want to change bulb every what? 4 or 8 months? I want to go LED BUT in the end I dont want my lights to be a limiting factor (considering my nutrients, co2 and tank condition are at their peak/ideal).
> 
> So when you guys say cant pop out the true colours of some of the hard to grow plants, which ones are they?


Full spectrum LED's are becoming more popular and should bridge the concerns about some LED's being too flat spectrum wise. If you have a lot of oranges, yellows, reds you are trying to pop - you may consider supplementing a Ray 2 with a MonsterRay or a Current Satellite LED+. Another option is BuildmyLED.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

TexasCichlid said:


> Full spectrum LED's are becoming more popular and should bridge the concerns about some LED's being too flat spectrum wise. If you have a lot of oranges, yellows, reds you are trying to pop - you may consider supplementing a Ray 2 with a MonsterRay or a Current Satellite LED+. Another option is BuildmyLED.


Yeah full spectrum seems to be the next big thing. A lot of reefers are going full spectrum as it can look incredible with the right mix of lights. Finding that mix is tricky though.


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

gus6464 said:


> Yeah full spectrum seems to be the next big thing. A lot of reefers are going full spectrum as it can look incredible with the right mix of lights. Finding that mix is tricky though.


I am guessing within a year or two, full spectrum but more powerful units with remote control adjustments will be available. Current already puts out a full spectrum, remote control LED unit for freshwater that is 30-40 par at 12". Given some time, I fully expect 60+ PAR @ 12" capable units at a reasonable price range in the near term.

Think about it. It's only been the past year really that affordable freshwater LED's have hit the market - Finnex largely leading the charge there. Before that, LED's were mostly a bit of DIY fun for those who like to solder or terribly expensive commercial models more adapted to the larger, and more light demanding, reef community.


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## samee (Oct 14, 2011)

TexasCichlid said:


> Full spectrum LED's are becoming more popular and should bridge the concerns about some LED's being too flat spectrum wise. If you have a lot of oranges, yellows, reds you are trying to pop - you may consider supplementing a Ray 2 with a MonsterRay or a Current Satellite LED+. Another option is BuildmyLED.


You mean this?

http://www.aquavibrant.com/lighting/led-fixtures/finnex-monsterray/finnex-monsterray.html


It seems to be cheaper than the ray 2. Ill look at that par chart for it. How much par do you need at the bottom to grow the most demanding foreground plants? Im growing repens, HC and dgh no problem with T8s.


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

samee said:


> You mean this?
> 
> http://www.aquavibrant.com/lighting/led-fixtures/finnex-monsterray/finnex-monsterray.html
> 
> ...


The MonsterRay is simply an additional fixture to add full spectrum to the tank. Improves visual color. Not really meant to grow plants by itself.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Just an FYI re: an interesting product/company...
http://www.horticulturesource.com/kessil-kessil-a150-led-aquarium-light-amazon-sun-p12778/


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Just an FYI re: an interesting product/company...
> http://www.horticulturesource.com/kessil-kessil-a150-led-aquarium-light-amazon-sun-p12778/


Save your money and buy a PAR38 if you want the spot look.


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## samee (Oct 14, 2011)

TexasCichlid said:


> Save your money and buy a PAR38 if you want the spot look.


Ive heard good stuff about par. But I want my whole tank to be illuminated and most importantly be able to grow some demanding plants. Not only that but Ive seen people hang the pars waaaay above their tank. I dont dont like that look, I just want it to hide underneath my hood. Personally, I dont like the finnex look either, I would rather have a big fixture with all the features in it. But in the end its performance over looks.


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## Bongox3 (Jun 19, 2013)

Ok...here's a straight rookie question...as having read this thread I'm still confused... I want to carpet my tank (considering glosso, or clover, or drwf bb tears, not sure - but love the general look) .... It's a standard 120... Nothing wazoo about it...co2 and fertz ok... I'm not broke but far from rich.... For this, which is going to be superior LED or t5ho... I have the t5h0, but payday comes every 15 days - and well $$$ is part of what we do... Please don't hate me for asking - just simply advise in dumbed down simple dude terms...:confused1: Sorry, not trying to rob the thread... Pvt message is awesome too - just seemed fitting here...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

TexasCichlid said:


> Save your money and buy a PAR38 if you want the spot look.


I think you are missing the subtlety of this light a bit.. no it is not cheap (and apparently a bit noisy) but the multi=chip high power (PAR) density is good for a "look see" in my book.. There are multi channels on the chip .. As I said just an FYI...


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> I think you are missing the subtlety of this light a bit.. no it is not cheap (and apparently a bit noisy) but the multi=chip high power (PAR) density is good for a "look see" in my book.. There are multi channels on the chip .. As I said just an FYI...


I'm not sure what you are saying about multi-chip? The only positive reviews I've read on the forum in regards to the Kessil Amazon Sun units were from pretty obvious shills. If you want that style light, a PAR38 with 40 degree beam @ 5500k with a flexible arm and a clip will be more than comparable.


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## Jnad (Aug 17, 2012)

Look at post number 22 in this link, just using cheap household led bulbs with 6500K
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=266170&page=2

Jnad


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## samee (Oct 14, 2011)

Now I cant decide if I want to buy the monster ray because of this colour popping issue. I need an led unit that covers the par and temperature bases. I only have a 45 gal with a 15" depth. Not interested in useless features like dimming and stuff. I really dont know who to ask now.


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## denske (Feb 20, 2013)

Tank is a 20 long, I'm using the 30" buildmyled fixture, with dimmer. I have it hanging about 4" above the water line. 

I'm getting around 80 par at the substrate In the center, with the light at 100%.










Even my Blyxa starts turning red.


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## morelight (Jun 2, 2013)

I had a Finnex Fuge ray on a 20 gal xtall and within two weeks an amazon sword went from 8 inch leaf to 15 inches. Wisteria just went wild, tripled in height in a few weeks. I took down the tank and got a 15 gallon with half the height. The Finnex is now on that tank. I put a fixture with two 13watt cfls on it, but the Finnex is double the brightness so i'm sticking with the Fuge. All plants stopped growing, maybe new tank syndrome.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

TexasCichlid said:


> I'm not sure what you are saying about multi-chip? The only positive reviews I've read on the forum in regards to the Kessil Amazon Sun units were from pretty obvious shills. If you want that style light, a PAR38 with 40 degree beam @ 5500k with a flexible arm and a clip will be more than comparable.


not trying to shill the Kessel.. What I was getting at is multi-coloed chips(wavelengths) on one puck, not just a group (or single) LED "tweaked"
to match a color temp..2 totally different animals to me..


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## TexasCichlid (Jul 12, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> not trying to shill the Kessel.. What I was getting at is multi-coloed chips(wavelengths) on one puck, not just a group (or single) LED "tweaked"
> to match a color temp..2 totally different animals to me..


I see what you mean. You are saying the kessil is full spectrum and has a superior spectrum profile than a typical par38. I have not looked at the spectrums for comparison so I cannot speak to that.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## BackAtIt (Jun 19, 2013)

denske said:


> Tank is a 20 long, I'm using the 30" buildmyled fixture, with dimmer. I have it hanging about 4" above the water line.
> 
> I'm getting around 80 par at the substrate In the center, with the light at 100%.
> 
> Even my Blyxa starts turning red.


This is encouraging, I had planned to get a buildmyled fixture. Could you share the color combination of your LEDs? 

I feel the energy savings of an LED is worth any down sides for me, but it's all about balancing what you want for your aquarium.


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## denske (Feb 20, 2013)

BackAtIt said:


> This is encouraging, I had planned to get a buildmyled fixture. Could you share the color combination of your LEDs?
> 
> I feel the energy savings of an LED is worth any down sides for me, but it's all about balancing what you want for your aquarium.


I just went with the freshwater planted tank model, it's a mixture of white, red, and blue. Colors of plants look amazing.


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## samee (Oct 14, 2011)

Looks nice. Id like to see the hard colouring, red plants in these conditions. I hear people say that but Im not sure which plants.


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