# pH of 8.0, will this be a problem?



## Ashnic05 (Jan 7, 2013)

IMO 8.0 is too high for your list of fish you want. Are you planning on using driftwood or Co2?


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

no CO2 so is driftwood the only natural way to lower it? I don't want to go chemical route..


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

*Water pH*



simplicitysarah said:


> I am in week 4 of my fishless cycle..things look good! almost done
> my pH is a steady 8.0(api master kit)
> tap is (8.2-8.4)
> 
> ...


Hello sim...

Most aquarium fish adapt well to most public water supplies. Even a pH of 8.5, though high on the scale, is tolerable as long as it stays constant. Corydoras are an exception. They prefer a more neutral pH, close to 7. Your other fish should have no trouble in the alkaline water.

Just an opinion, though.

B


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## Fishmommy (Feb 16, 2013)

You may want to skip the corys and neons, but the rainbows and rasboras will likely be ok. Consider some danios and more hardy tetras.
One thing to beware of is acclimation. Know the PH of the store's water and acclimate slowly.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

good advice guys! thanks..
if cories are out what else for the bottom? I don't like plecos


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## RukoTheWonderDog (Nov 11, 2011)

We have substantial limestone deposits in our water table here in Western NY; the pH out of the tap is roughly 8.2.

I would agree that the corys are not a good fit. I also had problems when I attempted to keep Cardinal, Rummynose, Neon, and a few other tetra species. They survived but their growth was slow and the colors were not as intense as they were in softer, more neutral water.

Serpae, Columbian, and Buenos Aires tetras all did well in the water.

You can buffer your water will Peat Moss & driftwood, however a lot is going to depend on your KH. I tried many methods to keep the pH down, but ultimately battling the parameters was too much of a hassle. I eventually switched to an RO unit.

Keep in mind too, most plants don't like the pH that high and may not grow well.


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

RukoTheWonderDog said:


> We have substantial limestone deposits in our water table here in Western NY; the pH out of the tap is roughly 8.2.
> 
> I would agree that the corys are not a good fit. I also had problems when I attempted to keep Cardinal, Rummynose, Neon, and a few other tetra species. They survived but their growth was slow and the colors were not as intense as they were in softer, more neutral water.
> 
> ...


Someday hope to get RO but won't be in budget for some time... Well through last time I tested my KH was the first week into cycle (Jan 27) it was 8
I am using python for wc and it's through my water softner.. But today I will test my water not through softner.. Don't know if it will be any better 
Does peat or driftwood work pretty good or does it make pH fluctuate?


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

xmas_one said:


> You are doing a "fishless" cycle, which leads me to believe that you are dumping ammonia in your tank? Ammonia is a base and will raise your pH. It should go back down when you are done with your cycle.


Yes that's correct, dosing with pure ammonia.
But the pH of my water softner tap is 8.2-8.4


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## constanzia (Feb 22, 2013)

*ph of 8.0*

Hey city sara, regarding your stocking list, I will tell you I've kept Cory's (peppered) in 8.2'ish water very succesfully. I've also kept otto's ottocinclus (sp) catfish in the same tank. The real trick is to acclimate them gradually. PH is important but it is much more important to kept your nitrates below 20ppm. As far as some of those tetra's on the list they are much more PH sensitive


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

ok so i tested the tap(not softened) and its 8.2 
should i do a large wc with the well water or continue softened water?
I am looking for driftwood, any recommendations on that? there so many choices on Ebay
my lfs doesn't sell driftwood


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## VisionQuest28 (Apr 18, 2007)

simplicitysarah said:


> ok so i tested the tap(not softened) and its 8.2
> should i do a large wc with the well water or continue softened water?
> I am looking for driftwood, any recommendations on that? there so many choices on Ebay
> my lfs doesn't sell driftwood


Is your softener one that uses salt? If so, its not really softening the water at all, its just exchanging minerals, to make the water "feel" softer. I would maybe do a full water test on both the well and the tap "softened" water, paying attention to the kH and alkalinity of both. If it was me, I would just use the well water.

As far as driftwood, ive spent hours looking on [Ebay Link Removed] I have gotten pieces from several different sellers. I cant really recommend one over another. I cant really get any here locally at my LFS's either. I REALLY wish i could! Even with tons of pictures and and measurements online, I still have a hard time finding exactly the pieces i want. I know I would be much more successful if I could actually look at and hold the pieces, and have several to select from.


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

ok here are my test results... before i list... my pH is steady at 8.. but the last 2 saturdays i have done a partial WC, dosed prime.. then added flourish and excel.. and by monday my pH is purple!!(8.2+) so i tested to today and its 8.2 and my nitrates are 80 and they were 20.. any ideas?? 

Ok here my test results(api master kit)
Tank as of result:
ammonia-0
nitrite-0
nitrate-80
pH-8.2
KH-5
GH-3

WATER from softner(set out 24hrs and stirred occasionally)
ammonia-.25-.5
nitrite-0
nitrate-0
pH-8.2-8.4
KH- 11
GH-5

WELL Water(also set out 24hrs and stirred)
ammonia-1.0
nitrite-0
nitrate-0
pH 8.2
KH- 12
GH-... well after 20 drops it was still orange 

Which water is better? not well right?
so i need do a WC to get nitrates down.. what is causing the fluctuations?


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## jimbocurtice (May 3, 2012)

constanzia said:


> Hey city sara, regarding your stocking list, I will tell you I've kept Cory's (peppered) in 8.2'ish water very succesfully. I've also kept otto's ottocinclus (sp) catfish in the same tank. The real trick is to acclimate them gradually. PH is important but it is much more important to kept your nitrates below 20ppm. As far as some of those tetra's on the list they are much more PH sensitive



The water at my place is liquid rock and the pH is usually 7.8-8.0 and I have had a group of bronze corys plus a group of neon and many other fish that needs soft and acidic water and everyone is well. I think the key is to acclimate them the right way and you should be fine.


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

jimbocurtice said:


> The water at my place is liquid rock and the pH is usually 7.8-8.0 and I have had a group of bronze corys plus a group of neon and many other fish that needs soft and acidic water and everyone is well. I think the key is to acclimate them the right way and you should be fine.



What do you consider the best accumulation? Slow derived? 

What kind of peat pellets should I get?! There's so many different kinds! Don't want to buy wrong thing


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Fish are best set up according to their GH preference. 

Here is how I would handle your water(s):

1) If you want to keep fish that need soft water (low GH) then you will have to use the water with the lowest GH to start with, or else dilute the high GH water with reverse osmosis or distilled. Or find some way to remove the minerals from your tap water. Your tank, for whatever reason, seems to have the best GH for soft water fish. Please describe everything you are doing... SOMEthing is removing the minerals from your water.

2) Sodium exchange water softeners add sodium to the water and removes the calcium and magnesium that plants and fish need. This is not usually a good option for aquariums. I would not use softened water. 

3) Well water has lots of minerals. Just keep the right fish:
Asian Rummynose, most Live bearers, many Rainbows and related fish (research Pseudomugil species), and Rift Lake Cichlids and other fish. 

Here are some tests to run:
1) Run some tap water into a bucket. Try some softened water in one bucket, and well water in another. 
2) Add a generous amount of peat moss to each bucket. Perhaps a cup of peat per gallon. 
3) Stir the buckets as often as you can. Several times per day. 
4) Test GH, KH and pH after 24 hours. If you have a TDS meter that would be great. (Can be found on line for about $20)

Other test: Put a nylon stocking of peat moss in the tank. In the filter, if you have room, otherwise in a place with high water flow. I cut a knee-hi into 3 bags for small tanks (to 20 gallon), or 2 bags for large tanks (to 45 gallon), and just use 1 bag for most of my tanks (2 bags for my tanks over 45 gallon). 

Goal: See if peat moss will do the job for you. If this works, then you will have to prepare the water before every water change by filtering it through peat moss. I do this in garbage cans. I use a knee-hi stocking of peat moss in 20-40 gallons of water, and run a fountain pump to circulate the water overnight. The next day the water is ready. I can reuse the peat moss several times, but it takes longer each time. Keep the peat moss in a stocking, it can clog the pump if it is loose in the garbage can. 

Other test:
Get one of the substrates that removes the KH from the water. Oil Dry, Safe-T-Sorb, Turface (any color)
Put this material in a bucket the same as the peat moss test. 
Test at 24 hours: Has the KH and pH dropped? 

If both peat moss and Safe-T-Sorb do what they are supposed to, then test a combination. Put a cup of each in a gallon of water, and see what that does overnight. 

If that works, then you have figured out what you will need to do to prep your water to keep soft water fish. 
Fill a bucket or garbage can with water, and filter that water through Safe-T-Sorb and peat moss.


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## simplicitysarah (May 14, 2012)

I have been using the softened water so I can switch to well.. 
I can test when I get some peat. 
I was already considering rainbows.! I will look into other species too


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## papwalker (Feb 22, 2013)

Wouldn't use the well unless you keep Africans.

Once plants go in stuff will drop. Your total hardness is dropping anyway.
You'll get some bio-acidification slowly happening.
I always get some plants in early to kick things along.

My analysis out of the tap is 3.75 (67 mg CaCO3/L) Sydney water; so yours looks OK at three!

Natural option to reduce pH see...
http://www.skepticalaquarist.com/peat-filtration
http://papwalker.blogspot.com.au/2013/02/orinoco-tea_23.html

Normally I don't like to muck around with new tanks. I use Seachem Prime, Stability and Neutral reg as per instructions in a tank that has some filter matrix and driftwood from from a working tank. Seachem tabs for plants.

My 15 gallon had fish in it two days after first water.
10% changes daily for a few weeks. Spawning Corydoras in three weeks.
Ammonia is always N/D
I've tapered off the neutral reg. I'm using my Orinoco tea.
Baby corys are loving it. Need to start selling 'em - no room.


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## Magnum26 (Feb 25, 2013)

I have to disagree with some of you, my water is around the 8 mark and I have corys, neons, rasboras, golden barbs and danios, they are all prefectly healthy and have extended lives for some reasons. My Danios are around 5 years old atm. 

Just becuase it's hard water doesn't mean you can't have a fish, just let it get used to it first and make sure you treat the water. Simples.


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## papwalker (Feb 22, 2013)

Magnum26 said:


> I have to disagree with some of you, my water is around the 8 mark and I have corys, neons, rasboras, golden barbs and danios, they are all prefectly healthy and have extended lives for some reasons. My Danios are around 5 years old atm.
> 
> Just becuase it's hard water doesn't mean you can't have a fish, just let it get used to it first and make sure you treat the water. Simples.


Of course you are probably right. Fish from commercial breeders probably haven't seen biotope conditions in the same number of generations humans have seen since we left Africa. :smile:


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## Magnum26 (Feb 25, 2013)

papwalker said:


> Of course you are probably right. Fish from commercial breeders probably haven't seen biotope conditions in the same number of generations humans have seen since we left Africa. :smile:


I'm only assuming as my fish are fine. Normally LFS generally use the same water as you would do at home so it's safe to assume the fish would be ok, is basically what I meant. :flick:


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