# Why Are My Shrimp Dying?!



## gglasser1 (Jun 8, 2016)

Over the last three days, I have had one shrimp (I think RCS) die per day; but I have a few still looking fine. I had the shrimp for around two months in another tank without a problem, and I moved them to this tank about 3 weeks ago.


I started the tank a few weeks ago (Fluval Edge 6 gal) with water from a cycled tank, and attached the photo of my pH test. The left vial is pH and the right vial is High Range pH. I think it comes out to 7.4? The temp. is always between 76F and 80F. The rest of my tests were: 0ppm Nitrite and Ammonia; and 40ppm Nitrate. I did a water change yesterday to deal with the Nitrate, but had another shrimp die today. The only other variables I could think of are that the HOB filter is pretty strong (even set at its weakest), and I had a plant die, which I have removed pre-water change.


Any advice, or questions to get us there?


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## Yukiharu (May 3, 2014)

What are your gH and kH? What do the dead shrimp look like? Where did you get them from (Online or local?) and how did you introduce them?
I have had much better luck with locally sourced shrimp than shipped ones.


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## gglasser1 (Jun 8, 2016)

No clue. My test kit does not test gH and kH. Is it important?


The dead shrimp looked normal, just on their backs.


I got the shrimp shipped, but they were doing fine for a few weeks. Then, the tank I switched them to was started with water from the prior tank. So, I supposed the problem did not have to do with acclimation. This tank does have different substrate though. It is Eco-Complete, while the other was pool sand.


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## natemcnutty (May 26, 2016)

A few things that stick out to me. 

First, water from a cycled tank does not usually help cycle a new tank - you need the media or large amount of substrate where the beneficial bacteria lives. Not much BB floating around in the water, but since you say no ammonia, no nitrites, and high nitrates, I guess it worked for you (but I'd keep an eye on it).

You really need to know your GH if you want to keep shrimp well. The API GH/KH test kit is like $7 on Amazon. That will help you determine if you have enough calcium in the water for proper shell development. I am convinced this is the main reason most people have a hard time keeping shrimp.

High nitrates will make them more susceptible to getting sick, and things like bacterial infections can get passed on when they eat shrimp that died from the bacteria, especially if they themselves have weakened immune systems.

I'd look at doing small water changes throughout the week, keep high oxygenation, and add some more plants 

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## gglasser1 (Jun 8, 2016)

Thanks for the info!

GH/KH Test Kit ordered. When it gets here, I will check ammonia one more time to be sure about cycling. Ideally, what should the GH/KH results be?

I hope to have co2 set up tomorrow, and will add plants ASAP after that.


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## ambe (Feb 16, 2017)

For red cherry a GH between 6 and 8 is ideal, but because they were ok in your other tank this might not be the issue. Are you feeding them?


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## Zoidburg (Mar 8, 2016)

gglasser1 said:


> Thanks for the info!
> 
> GH/KH Test Kit ordered. When it gets here, I will check ammonia one more time to be sure about cycling. Ideally, what should the GH/KH results be?
> 
> I hope to have co2 set up tomorrow, and will add plants ASAP after that.


Considering you are currently having issues, I do not recommend adding CO2... that could cause more harm than good.


Once you get the liquid GH/KH test kit, get us the following information.

*Tank One*
PH
Ammonia
Nitrites
Nitrates
GH
KH
Substrate
Decorations
Ferts/CO2


*Tank Two*
PH
Ammonia
Nitrites
Nitrates
GH
KH
Substrate
Decorations
Ferts/CO2


Do you have a TDS meter by any chance?


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## gglasser1 (Jun 8, 2016)

I am feeding the shrimp Hikari Shrimp Cuisine, but they are not eating much so I am not feeding much. I do not have a TDS meter.

Zoidburg: I will provide all that info as soon as I get the gh/kh test kit (hopefully Monday or Tuesday).

Bump: I am feeding the shrimp Hikari Shrimp Cuisine, but they are not eating much so I am not feeding much. I do not have a TDS meter.

Zoidburg: I will provide all that info as soon as I get the gh/kh test kit (hopefully Monday or Tuesday).


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## Zoidburg (Mar 8, 2016)

TDS meters are cheap as well, although they do require calibration, and the calibration solution is sold separately.


When people talk about "pH shock", what's really going on is a TDS shock. A TDS meter can help tell you how clean or dirty the water is, or how hard or soft the water is, but it doesn't tell you exactly what is in the water. RO/DI and rainwater is very soft. Soft/clean water has low TDS. River water that runs over limestone or well water tends to be hard water. Hard/dirty water has a high TDS.

If you have a tank with 200 TDS and after a week, the TDS rises to 250, that extra 50 TDS could be waste, food, evaporation (water evaporates, but leaves everything else behind), decomposing organics (i.e. dead plants), etc.


So it's a good idea to have one of those as well.


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## mheat (Apr 24, 2013)

It may help if you can do these few things:
- Lower the temp to about 76F. Move your tank to basement or use a fan to blow wind on the water surface to lower the temp.
- Put a pre-filter sponge on the AC filter intake.
- Check your GH, and make sure it is about 4-6. This is very important for shrimps to molt.
- If you have a big pH swing between photo period, raise your KH to 1. If no pH swing, don't worry about KH
- Do small water change (10%-20%) weekly or bi-weekly.

Make sure your tank is completely cycled. For my experience, Nutrafin KH/GH Test kit is better than API one. Hope it helps. RCS is very hardy shrimp. If you can correct a few things, they breed like crazy.


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## natemcnutty (May 26, 2016)

mheat said:


> - Check your GH, and make sure it is about 4-6. This is very important for shrimps to molt.
> 
> For my experience, Nutrafin KH/GH Test kit is better than API one.


What is it that makes the Nutrafin better? I've only used the API one, and I have to order a new one soon. Might switch if I can justify the cost difference.

Also, might be just me, but when I had RCS mixed with my CRS, I had molting issues in the 4-5 range. In my work tank, I keep them at 7-8 dGH. Just something to keep an eye on.



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## mheat (Apr 24, 2013)

I have both API and Nutrafin GH/KH test kits. The API GH test kid is harder to see the color change when putting in drops. I have no problem with Nutrafin GH one. KH bottle is okay for both.

If you put CRS and RCS together, either one of them will happy. CRS prefer lower GH, PH, temperature, TDS, while RCS prefer the opposite.


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## gglasser1 (Jun 8, 2016)

*Why is Tank Two not hospitable to RCS?*

Why is Tank Two not hospitable to RCS?

Tank One (20 gal tall)
PH: 7.5
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 2.5
GH: 196.9
KH: 8
Substrate: Pool sand
Ferts/CO2: None/1 bps


Tank Two (6 gal Fluval Edge)
PH: 7.5
Ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 40
GH: 179
KH: 8
Substrate: Eco-Complete
Ferts/CO2: None/0.25 bps


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## natemcnutty (May 26, 2016)

Reduce your nitrates. That high of levels can weaken their immune system causing them to be more susceptible to diseases.

Edit: Also, bps doesn't mean a while lot, but if you know how much of a pH drop (or ppm of CO2), that might be helpful.


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## gglasser1 (Jun 8, 2016)

I just use bps and a drop checker for co2, so I can't really give you anything more precise. I did just add some frogbit, so hopefully that will help with the nitrates. Not sure why they are so high anyway...


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## Zoidburg (Mar 8, 2016)

Can't help but wonder if the high nitrates and the Eco-complete could be causing problems. Generally spekaing, Eco-Complete is fine with Neos, but I have heard that it can change the tank parameters.


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## NickAu (Feb 24, 2017)

Nitrates of 40 and above will weaken the Cherry shrimps immune system and can render them sterile.

Hard water causes issues with molting, The shrimp cant shed its shell and they die.

Shrimp also need a mature stable tank, By mature I mean running at least 3 months after the tank is cycled.


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