# Overflow or none for a planted tank



## RAZmonkey (Jul 7, 2011)

I'm a newbie and was given a tank with a drilled over flow and sump set up. I'm finding it rather easy to deal with. I have neons and they don't fall through my overflow. My set up was used for several years before I got it, so I feel comfortable with the failsafes/checks in the drains. 

My only complaint would be that it's kind of loud. The water rushes down the overflow plumbing and the mag return pump seems to vibrate. It's better since I lifted the pump just up off the floor of the tank. But it's still on the noisy side.


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

thanks raz what is the failsafes/checks? any pictures of it or link?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I got a 125gal tank, stand, lights, with corner overflows, wet/dry sump filter, return pump, everything for $300 for my turtle tank and I love the sump. I had them in a 55 and a 40 before with 3 canister filters and always had green water, cleaning filter all the time, etc and with the sump, it rocks. My pump is rated 1800gph, so even with head loss, still probably getting 1000+ gph, and the tank is about 80% full, so about 10x turnover or more of water each hour. Easy to do top offs right into the sump, change water, etc. Best $300 I even spent in my life. Sold off a few of my canister filter and basically got it for free. lol.


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

Thanks, you ever had a leaking or problem water coming out? Or fish entering the overflow?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

jczz1232 said:


> Thanks, you ever had a leaking or problem water coming out? Or fish entering the overflow?


I drilled my overflow holes big on my overflow boxes to avoid clogging from lettuce I feed my turtles, and such. I got a bunch of feeder minnow and goldfish in the tank as well. So far, only a few of the smallest minnows made it through the holes and into the overflow corners. All my drains have sponges on them, so they can't make it through anyways. I leave them for a week or two in there and they grow a bit and don't fit anymore. lol.

As for leaks, none. Had a few at first because I bought the setup used and I the return plumbing was hard-plumbed in, so it had to be cut to take the tank down, so I was on my own to replumb it and get it going, I replaced the bulkheads, etc. Got it going good though with some help from various forums.

The way mine is designed, which you can see in the video below, is that the water can only overflow into the holes, so if the pump stops, the water level quits rising and no more water can get down to the sump, so it won't overfill the sump.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vz0ni0o9jmc


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

thanks for the video a bit hard to see because it dark. does your overflow look like this http://www.aqueonproducts.com/products/predrilled-aquariums.htm ?


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Something like that. They look to be just bent black plexi that were made for that tank but same idea. Mine only have holes at the top though to stop any water from even entering the boxes but basically the same thing.

I know its a bit dark, not the best camera and hard to get it lit well.


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## RAZmonkey (Jul 7, 2011)

Failsafes/checks:

Power failure: my return pump no longer sends water to display tank...water level stops rising and therefore stops passively flowing into sump. Sump water level remains at about 1/3 tank volume so that when power is off, the extra water (normally found in the tubing and overflow) flows back into the sump filling it to about 1/2 way. So sump doesn't over flow. There are also a couple of holes drilled into the return pipe below the water level to prevent a suction/siphon from occurring during pump failure. 

To prevent the main tank from over flowing, there are lots of holes drilled in my exit pipe from the overflow box. As well as lots of slits in the overflow box to allow water to flow through. 


So the two biggest places for problems IMO are:
1. what happens during power or return pump failure?
2. what if the overflow output gets clogged?

The second scenario was the harder one for me to visualize. In that case, the return pump is sending water back to the display. If it can't overflow back to the sump, you'll flood your main/display tank.

Like I said I'm new to this. So if you had already figured all of that out on your own, I'm sorry for the redundancy. My tank was my BILs reef setup for several years before I planted it. So I knew it was leak tested.


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## RAZmonkey (Jul 7, 2011)

I have pictures of my tank and sump set up in my journal link in my signature.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

RAZmonkey said:


> So the two biggest places for problems IMO are:
> 1. what happens during power or return pump failure?
> *2. what if the overflow output gets clogged?*
> 
> The second scenario was the harder one for me to visualize. In that case, the return pump is sending water back to the display. If it can't overflow back to the sump, you'll flood your main/display tank.


That what I like about my setup. 2 drains, 2 returns, so a lot harder for both overflows to get clogged or both returns to fail at once. My tank is only 80% full though, so its a lot harder for water to go over the top as there isn't that much water in my sump. I also drilled a second set of holes above the first set to prevent that as well.


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

the tank that has the overflow has two of the overflow I believe so have 2x intake and 2x return.


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

I think the private seller is legit we have been messaging each other and gave me his number. I think for a new 120 gal tank 2 overflow with mega flow plumbing kit, Modern Series stand and Aqueon Proflex 4 sump for $820 is a great deal compare to a 120 gal clean tank with stand for $1300. Only thing that worry me is the overflow. What you guys think? :icon_neut


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## SlammedDC2 (Jun 4, 2011)

I have sumps on both of my tanks. Neither tank is drilled, instead on my 125 I have a CPR HOB overflow. I love my set up. No worry of flooding in a power outage if you set if up right. When you first set it up fill the tank to the bottom of the overflow (just before it begins to overflow) then fill the sump. Viola, in the event of a power outage the water will only drain to how you set it up. The sump will be full and the water level less then the overflow. 
I like sumps as they let you hide all your equipment, keep a constant water level, more water volume, and to me it's cheaper than a canister (at least if you build your own) and easier to clean/do maint. on. 
The only living things that have ever made their way into the sump are snails and that's fine by me as they are always the pest snails and I could really care less about their well being.


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## fresh.salty (Jul 2, 2010)

In-tank overflows can be almost silent with the correct plumbing. The only overflow issue I had in 20 years of SW was a large turbo snail getting into the 2 inch drain line. All other water-on-the-floor events were user errors.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Does sound like a good deal. I looked around and figured roughly what the deal I got was.

125gal, not drilled is $300
Stand is about $500
4xt8 Light fixture $150+
1800gph Magdrive pump, $250
Sump with bioballs, $400
Plumbing, drilling the tank, etc $100+

All for $300, so was an awesome deal.


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## jczz1232 (May 8, 2008)

Damn you is a even better deal  Wells thanks everyone I think I'm purchase the drilled tank. At the LFS they were asking for 1300 for tank and stand


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