# DIY Bridgelux Vero 18 LED build



## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

So a new day, a new LED fixture build. As some of you might remember, a couple of months ago I did a a full spectrum LED cannon build consisting of 9 LEDs but I was never happy with the way it looked and wanted something cleaner.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=388441

This time around I am setting up my CADlights low-iron rimless tank which has the same dimensions as the ADA 90-P. For this tank I wanted to stay with LEDs but wanted something very simple. 6 months ago this would not have been possible but with the arrival of the Bridgelux Vero series things are a lot different.

The Bridgelux Vero series is a new multichip array which is more efficient than the BXRA ES series and offers way more power with increased CRI. CRI is important because it's the reason we go multi-colored LEDs in the first place. Most common stuff today (Rebel ES, Cree XP-G, XT-E, XM-L etc.), all suffer from low CRI (70's) in the cool white range (5500-6500K CCT). This means that all these white LED's suffer from a lack of red and green in their spectra which is why we augment with colored LEDs. The new Vero series is able to put out a rated minimum of 90 CRI in a cool white (5600K CCT) LED with the Vero 18 and 28. This means that we can get a lot closer to a full spectrum LED with a single chip.

This is the data sheet for the Vero 18 I will be using BXRC-56G4000-F-04.
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content...x-Vero-18-LED-Array-Data-Sheet-2014.05.23.pdf

As you can see this particular LED can take up to 2A and deliver a whopping 6000 lumens for a very low price of $15 from digikey. I know some people prefer a bluer light on their tanks so if that's the case this is not the LED for you. Also Bridgelux rates the CRI on their chips as minimum and are known to measure higher in real world use. Also you know these emitters are built to last when Bridgelux warranties all Vero series for 10 years.

Another awesome thing about these chips is that they are solderless ready and just require a Molex Pico-EZMate connector which can be purchased here:
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/0688014227/WM9593-ND/3880993

Parts I will be using:

3x Bridgelux Vero 18 5600K 90CRI bin 
3x Bridgelux Vero 18 2700K 97CRI bin
6x Molex Pico EZMate connectors
HeatsinkUSA 32"x5" heatsink
4x Rosewill 120mm fans
6x Ledil Brooke-W 50deg reflectors
3x Meanwell LDD-1000H drivers
3x custom made 1600ma LDD type drivers from O2Surplus
Typhon controller with 8-up LDD board made by O2Surplus
48v 7.2A power supply


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

Hey Gus!

You're gonna love those Vero 18's. They're stupid bright. I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225 and couldn't be happier with their performance. I'm driving (6) 5600K 90 CRI's at 700ma and (6) 2700K 97CRI's at 300ma. Be ready to dim yours down quite a bit as they're much brighter than you'd expect at 1000ma. I'm Looking forward to seeing your build and the resulting plant growth. Let me know how you like the Ledil reflectors and please provide me with a link to them? I've been trying to decide which ones to purchase but without seeing them in actual use, I'm left a bit confused as to which Ledil part # to choose.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

O2surplus said:


> Hey Gus!
> 
> You're gonna love those Vero 18's. They're stupid bright. I'm currently running 12 of them over my 225 and couldn't be happier with their performance. I'm driving (6) 5600K 90 CRI's at 700ma and (6) 2700K 97CRI's at 300ma. Be ready to dim yours down quite a bit as they're much brighter than you'd expect at 1000ma. I'm Looking forward to seeing your build and the resulting plant growth. Let me know how you like the Ledil reflectors and please provide me with a link to them? I've been trying to decide which ones to purchase but without seeing them in actual use, I'm left a bit confused as to which Ledil part # to choose.


Hey I didn't know you had switched to Vero's. You have any pics of your tank with the current lights?

As far as optics the Vero specific ones are virtually nonexistant. I finally gave up the search and just bought Ledil Brooke-W's made for BXRA ES. The Vero 18 LED (SLES) diameter is less than 1mm smaller than the BXRA ES rectangle array so should work. I am just going to grind off the little feet of the Brooke-W and see how that goes until Vero 18 specific Ledil's become more widely available.

I highly doubt I will be running them over 500ma for the PAR I want. I am hanging high because I want to plant a couple riparium plants as well on one side of the tank.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> The Bridgelux Vero series is a new multichip array which is more efficient than the BXRA ES series and offers way more power with increased CRI. CRI is important because it's the reason we go multi-colored LEDs in the first place.


That doesn't really change (much) w/ the CRI of the Vero's









The "decor" look interesting though..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> That doesn't really change (much) w/ the CRI of the Vero's
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That graph is for 70CRI 5000K Vero's. I never said my build was the most optimal but it is quite simple. O2's build with 5600K and 2700K Decor is actually the most optimal which I may end up doing later on.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> That graph is for 70CRI 5000K Vero's. I never said my build was the most optimal but it is quite simple. O2's build with 5600K and 2700K Decor is actually the most optimal which I may end up doing later on.


Your missing 2 minor points 1) CRI is measured using 8 "points" most of which are pastels.. so CRI is not a be all end all to all colors looking "normal"
http://cool.conservation-us.org/byorg/us-doe/color_rendering_index.pdf

A high CRI is not a perfect substitute for "colored builds"

2)Plants don't give a rip about CRI... 

Not criticizing your build at all just trying to explain that one should understand the concept and know what it really means..

There is an undercurrent that has decided 8 points are not enough, and they have valid reasons for this opinion..




> Recommendations
> A long-term research and development process is underway to develop a revised color
> quality metric that would be applicable to all white light sources. In the meantime, CRI
> can be considered as one data point in evaluating white LED products and systems. It
> ...





> One of the main issues with CRI is that it averages 8 colors (which have a low to medium chromatic saturation) to obtain a ranking. This means that even if a lamp renders a few colors poorly, the CRI can still remain high, as long as those poorly rendered colors are not one of the 8 colors that are averaged.











http://colorqualityscale.com/


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> Your missing 2 minor points 1) CRI is measured using 8 "points" most of which are pastels.. so CRI is not a be all end all to all colors looking "normal"
> http://cool.conservation-us.org/byorg/us-doe/color_rendering_index.pdf
> 
> A high CRI is not a perfect substitute for "colored builds"
> ...


But if you were to use a 90CRI 5600K and 2700K Decor you get a spectrum that would require a quite a bit of colored LEDs to match. And that isn't even taking into consideration the sheer amount required to match the power. Price to power ratio of these emitters cannot be touched by Cree/Luxeon.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

just be thankful we are not "reefers"...


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

Gus- I made a mistake. My "cool white" Vero 18's are the 5000K 70 CRI models, not the 5600K 90 CRI bad boys. IIRC my idea was to use a "cool white" Vero with the highest lumen value available for shear PAR power and then use the lower power 2700K 97 CRI "Decor" Vero to add back some of the lost CRI. Now that I've had some time to play with my new camera, I'll get you some tank shots that should give you an idea of how these leds look in reality. LOL- I'm gonna warn Jeff now, as my "white balance" may be a little off.:eek5:


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

O2surplus said:


> LOL- I'm gonna warn Jeff now, as my "white balance" may be a little off.:eek5:


noooooooooooooo not florescent WB!!!!!

Maybe you haven't noticed but I'm a color and upside down photo cop......... 

and some think I'm chart crazy......... 
http://www.nano-reef.com/topic/345478-an-updated-led-guide-v10/

Bridgelux links are broken.. at least to direct spec sheet..


Question for you..

WHY do they not show the spectrum for the 90CRI's.. ??? Too close to the "Decor's" ???
http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content...x-Vero-18-LED-Array-Data-Sheet-2014.05.23.pdf


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

I emailed Bridgelux on a wavelength chart for the 90CRI Decors so I will see what they write back.

O2, I sent you a PM with the Vero 18 specific reflector info.


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## MeCasa (Apr 22, 2014)

Why not use Vero with a few mixed color LED's thrown in for spectrum?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

MeCasa said:


> Why not use Vero with a few mixed color LED's thrown in for spectrum?


Because I have already gone that route before and finding a CCT I was happy with never happened. Also these Vero are going to be mounted high at almost 3ft above the tank. It would take way more than a few mixed 3W to penetrate like a Vero 18 at that height. Also a Vero 18 2700K Decor with the 5600K will give me a spectrum that can easily match a multi-color LED setup.


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## MeCasa (Apr 22, 2014)

I guess the Vero's out for me, my 150 is in my bedroom and if the light was that bright my girlfriend would no doubt replace me for a younger man

Oh well.......


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

MeCasa said:


> I guess the Vero's out for me, my 150 is in my bedroom and if the light was that bright my girlfriend would no doubt replace me for a younger man
> 
> Oh well.......


Everything is doable with reflectors. I measured the light angles with a goniometer which is why I am going with a 50deg reflector. There will be very little light spill. I am hanging high because I am doing a couple riparium plants as well.

You can also do no optics and just build your light fixture with a light spill guard. That can be done by placing the emitter higher in relevance to the bottom of the fixture.


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## MeCasa (Apr 22, 2014)

Any light that's strong enough to grow plants 3' above the water is bright. Spillage at the top is just part of the equation, the light shining out of the tank itself is bright.

I'm neither opinionating nor putting down what you are doing because everybody has their own goals and/or usages. I wasn't familiar with the Vero so I meandered over here for a quick see. 

But as soon as you said 36" above the tank I knew there were no Vero's in my future.

Lots of luck on your build though, sounds like you got it going good

PS: these Vero's must be selling like hotcakes in Colorado :icon_mrgr


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Since Vero optics are impossible to find right now you can at least use BXRA ES optics on the Vero 18 with perfect fit.

This is a Ledil Brooke-W with the little feet carefully grinded off









Perfect fit









I will post PAR data for one of these with and without reflector later tonight.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

I took a preliminary PAR reading of one Vero 18 with the Brooke-W and at 1000ma and 2ft high I got 165 PAR. This was done open air. For reference my old 9x Rebel ES cannon with 6x 6500K, 1x cool blue, 1x red, and 1x hyper violet got 150 PAR at that same distance in the tank with 60deg optics. At 1000ma the Vero 18 is only running at 33% power as it can go up to 3000ma. My goal is 60 PAR @ 3ft from substrate.

I need to find a driver like the LDD that can do more than 1A.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> I took a preliminary PAR reading of one Vero 18 with the Brooke-W and at 1000ma and 2ft high I got 165 PAR. This was done open air. For reference my old 9x Rebel ES cannon with 6x 6500K, 1x cool blue, 1x red, and 1x hyper violet got 150 PAR at that same distance in the tank with 60deg optics. At 1000ma the Vero 18 is only running at 33% power as it can go up to 3000ma. My goal is 60 PAR @ 3ft from substrate.
> 
> I need to find a driver like the LDD that can do more than 1A.


3000???? err 2100 for the 18


> Vero 10, Vero 13, Vero 18 can support up to 2x nominal current, while Vero 29 is limited to
> 1.5x nominal current





> Nominal Current
> 1050mA, 29.5V, 31W


http://www.bridgelux.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/BRIDGELUX-VERO-ENG-US-v3-SCREEN.pdf
your running @50% of MAX...


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

gus6464 said:


> I took a preliminary PAR reading of one Vero 18 with the Brooke-W and at 1000ma and 2ft high I got 165 PAR. This was done open air. For reference my old 9x Rebel ES cannon with 6x 6500K, 1x cool blue, 1x red, and 1x hyper violet got 150 PAR at that same distance in the tank with 60deg optics. At 1000ma the Vero 18 is only running at 33% power as it can go up to 3000ma. My goal is 60 PAR @ 3ft from substrate.
> 
> I need to find a driver like the LDD that can do more than 1A.


LOL- I've already got you covered there. Send me a PM and I'll provide you with an LDD-H replacement that will push nearly 1600ma. Here's a photo of my little A6211 led driver mounted to a custom PcB. The new driver will simply plug in to your existing Typhon/LDD-H combo.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)




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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

O2surplus said:


> LOL- I've already got you covered there. Send me a PM and I'll provide you with an LDD-H replacement that will push nearly 1600ma. Here's a photo of my little A6211 led driver mounted to a custom PcB. The new driver will simply plug in to your existing Typhon/LDD-H combo.


Haha I figured you would already be ahead of the curve, I sent you a PM.


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## Edub (Mar 23, 2011)

How's the build going?


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## MeCasa (Apr 22, 2014)

Make that two lurkers. A quick Google showed me that Bridgelux has a 10 & 13 which will be better for me since I'm building a hood and not a pendant. If I use Vero's, I'll still augment with color but it would be hard to ignore the Vero's as a replacement for my bulk whites if nothing else, serious product for sure..

Enough about my lights, I don't want to tread on your thread just letting you know you perked my curiosity ;-)


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Edub said:


> How's the build going?


I am still waiting on a couple of things:

32" heatsink
3x Vero 18 Decors with Ledil Brooke W reflectors
1600ma LDD drivers from O2Surplus
8up LDD board from O2Surplus
120mm fans

I should have everything in by Thursday so I hope to have it finished by next week.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Tons of goodies came in today.

8up LDD from O2Surplus with 3 of his custom drivers which will power the 5600K and 3 regular Meanwell LDD-1000 for the 2700K.









Also got this sweet little board from him which allows you to use manual pot dimming with the Meanwell's. You just add your own 10K potentiometers.









All 6 LED's with a dime for size reference. 2700K Decor on bottom row.









This is a Vero with the optional molex cable for solderless installation. The cable is quite cheap at $1.30.









Cheap 4-pack of fans from newegg which I got for $10. Tested them and they are pretty much silent.









Now I just need for the heatsink to get here so I can measure the enclosure.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

So I have been looking at the photosynthesis charts and spectrum of my LEDs and this is what I got.

Combine this chart:









With the blue on this chart:









Photosynthesis chart









Pretty good for just using 2 LED's I think.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

So I put together the heatsink and did a test run and the light has completely blown away my expectations. Here are a couple of pictures of the light on my old tank which is getting replaced by the CADLights 50g.




























So in this picture the light is 14" from the top of the tank which is 18" high so light is basically 30" from the substrate. PAR is uniform left and right and front to back which completely surprised me. Then again I measured all the angles in which the reflectors hit.

This is with 5600K running at 1000ma and 2700K running at 175ma which is not my desired color.

PAR
Substrate - 100-110
Top - 250-260
105 Watts

I will do much more thorough measurements once my new tank is in place.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> So I put together the heatsink and did a test run and the light has completely blown away my expectations. Here are a couple of pictures of the light on my old tank which is getting replaced by the CADLights 50g.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


nice coverage.. amazing you can see the color tone difference in the lights on the reflectors..

Your "watts" are caculated at the above running mA or just estimate?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> nice coverage.. amazing you can see the color tone difference in the lights on the reflectors..
> 
> Your "watts" are caculated at the above running mA or just estimate?


The watts are just estimated based on the running mA. At <1A the Vero's are 29V give or take so it's just a rough estimate. I wish I had a kill-a-watt to actually measure.


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## MeCasa (Apr 22, 2014)

_This is with 5600K running at 1000ma and 2700K running at 175ma which is not my desired color._

How were you able to measure the mA of the 2700's?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

MeCasa said:


> _This is with 5600K running at 1000ma and 2700K running at 175ma which is not my desired color._
> 
> How were you able to measure the mA of the 2700's?


I just did an estimate based on the power level I set the Typhon to. Of course doing this assumes that LDD's are linear.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

MeCasa said:


> _This is with 5600K running at 1000ma and 2700K running at 175ma which is not my desired color._
> 
> How were you able to measure the mA of the 2700's?


Best way to measure mA is w/ a series resistor and measuring the voltage across it

I believe a 1ohm resistor gives a direct reading to amps.









http://www.measurementest.com/2010/08/how-to-measure-current-using-shunt.html

Measuring the voltage to the LED will then give you watts...


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> I just did an estimate based on the power level I set the Typhon to. Of course doing this assumes that LDD's are linear.


for fun.. I wouldn't be so concerned w/ the linearity of the LDD.. considering:


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

jeffkrol said:


> for fun.. I wouldn't be so concerned w/ the linearity of the LDD.. considering:


This graph doesn't fit Gus's situation. He's not using a pot to directly control the current through his leds. His pots are trimming a 5V (1023) signal on the analog input ports of an Atmega328. The resulting change in analog voltage is directly translated into a PWM signal duty cycle that's directly proportional to its analog counterpart. I.E. 0V on input = 0% duty on output, 2.5V on input=50% duty cycle on output, and 5V on input= 100% on output. It's a linear relationship  If he's controlling a MeanWell 1000H, then 1/2 way on the pot = around 500ma RMS on the LDD's output.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

O2surplus said:


> This graph doesn't fit Gus's situation. He's not using a pot to directly control the current through his leds. His pots are trimming a 5V (1023) signal on the analog input ports of an Atmega328. The resulting change in analog voltage is directly translated into a PWM signal duty cycle that's directly proportional to its analog counterpart. I.E. 0V on input = 0% duty on output, 2.5V on input=50% duty cycle on output, and 5V on input= 100% on output. It's a linear relationship  If he's controlling a MeanWell 1000H, then 1/2 way on the pot = around 500ma RMS on the LDD's output.


opp's... 

So the current will be liner.. but wattage is non linear.. correct?










I'll pretend that is what I was thinking... Which is why the efficiency changes..










current linear, voltage non-linear and conversly watt output..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> opp's...
> 
> So the current will be liner.. but wattage is non linear.. correct?
> 
> ...


Wattage is definitely not linear since the Vero runs between 29-32V depending on current.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Sorry I was just getting my head around the ..


> more amp more gross light but lower watt efficiency..


and non-linearity of V response..
But all in all non-linearity can be ignored.. 











nonlinearity of V is "smoothed" by linearity in ma output..and a linear luminous flux.

Friday babble session....


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

And here it is. Just have to paint the box but monte carlo came in early so had to plant. Doing dry start right now for a week to get good root structure and light is super low on the tank. I am pushing 1040ma on the 5600K and 600ma on the 2700K. Monte carlo is getting ~250 PAR right now. In <2 days I already got runners taking off. I really like the 2700K Decors. I have them come on an hour early than the 5600K and the color looks very much like dawn yellow. Once I fill I think I'm going to have the 2700K ramp up 2 hours early before the 5600K.


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## MeCasa (Apr 22, 2014)

Beautiful tank



.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

So I have been thinking about the Photosynthetic Action Spectrum chart and how the largest absorption spike is in the 400-425nm range. Until recently the only common LED you could get in this range were in the 415 and 420nm range. I also noticed that the majority of the people with great looking tanks that are running T5HO have bulbs that put out a purple/pink hue. I have been trying to match this chart as close as possible with as little LEDs as possible.










This is the spectrum I currently have with my 2 Bridgelux. Take the orange Decor and blue line.









Then I found this LED:
http://www.rapidled.com/total-spectrum-violet-uv-led/

That is a 4-core LED that runs at 13.5V and contains 2 leds that cover 400-410nm and 2 that cover 410-420nm. Rapidled currently has a 4th of July coupon going so for $60 shipped I got 3 with 60deg optics. Needless to say I am very anxious to see how this combination of 3 LEDs look in my tank.


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## Pagey (Jan 16, 2010)

Thanks for pointing me to this thread gus. I'll be keeping an eye on the progress here, those LEDs are looking awesome! I'm keen to see how it all turns out. When are you going to fill the tank?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Pagey said:


> Thanks for pointing me to this thread gus. I'll be keeping an eye on the progress here, those LEDs are looking awesome! I'm keen to see how it all turns out. When are you going to fill the tank?


Thanks! I actually filled the tank 2 days ago. I raised the light back to its original 18" from top of tank and turned down the power of the LED's. Now I am running 333ma on the 2700K and 1040ma on the 5600K. The substrate is getting ~110 PAR. Then my cheap CO2 regulator decided to crap out on me and it's now outputting 1bps no matter how open the needle valve is. I found a Victor dual stage regulator on ebay for a good price so will be putting together a nice regulator this week.


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## Pagey (Jan 16, 2010)

I'm subscribed mate so be sure to update us on how your plants enjoy this light.!


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## Pagey (Jan 16, 2010)

O2surplus said:


> Now that I've had some time to play with my new camera, I'll get you some tank shots that should give you an idea of how these leds look in reality..:eek5:


Hey O2, did you ever get around to taking these pics?


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## Edub (Mar 23, 2011)

Very interested in those violet LEDs. Post a pic of the build/tank shots pleeeeeeease!


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Edub said:


> Very interested in those violet LEDs. Post a pic of the build/tank shots pleeeeeeease!


I just fried 2 of them and an LDD-700H because of sheer stupidity :angryfire First LEDs I have ever fried and they have to be ones that cost $20 a pop.:icon_mad:


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## Pagey (Jan 16, 2010)

Damn!!


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## bluediscus (Jul 31, 2009)

Hey Gus, nice build! Did you consider the vero 29s? They probably have better penetration for deeper tanks or higher mounting positions compared to the 18s. And you would need less LEDs to get the same output, less wiring, etc.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

bluediscus said:


> Hey Gus, nice build! Did you consider the vero 29s? They probably have better penetration for deeper tanks or higher mounting positions compared to the 18s. And you would need less LEDs to get the same output, less wiring, etc.


Thanks. I did consider the 29 but that is way too much power for what I need. I only have 3 Vero 18's per color for a total of 6 and they are barely driven hard. I am only pushing 1000ma on the 5600K and 333ma on the 2700K and I get over 100 PAR at the substrate with the light hanging almost 3ft from the substrate. If I had say a 48x24x24 tank I would have gone with 2x Vero 29's per color.


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## O2surplus (Jan 31, 2010)

gus6464 said:


> Thanks. I did consider the 29 but that is way too much power for what I need. I only have 3 Vero 18's per color for a total of 6 and they are barely driven hard. I am only pushing 1000ma on the 5600K and 333ma on the 2700K and I get over 100 PAR at the substrate with the light hanging almost 3ft from the substrate. If I had say a 48x24x24 tank I would have gone with 2x Vero 29's per color.



LOL- 29's would have been complete overkill. So you're only pushing 1000ma into the 5600K's? Is that with LDD-1000H's or are you simply PWMing the heck out of the 1600ma drivers that I sent you?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

O2surplus said:


> LOL- 29's would have been complete overkill. So you're only pushing 1000ma into the 5600K's? Is that with LDD-1000H's or are you simply PWMing the heck out of the 1600ma drivers that I sent you?


Those are with your drivers. I am scared to run them higher because my power supply is almost at it's limit. The violets will get me really close to max current which is 7.2A. My next purchase is a 48V 10A PSU. Plus a Vero 18 @ 1600ma is just too powerful.


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## bhazard451 (Jan 24, 2013)

awesome build!


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Replacement violets are in and installed. Picture at full power which is 700ma.










Looks a lot brighter with the camera. PAR measurement is ~22 at the substrate at full power but that's not accurate because the Apogee meter is ~50% off at this spectrum.










This means that actual PAR reading is double to what it says.

This is a before and after shot but to my eyes it looks more pronounced. The color rendition is more T5HO like now which I am digging.

Before









After









Hard to tell since plants are still growing out but I have a huge order of Buce's coming in next week so I will have better pictures of plants for comparison.


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## Pagey (Jan 16, 2010)

That looks amazing mate. The scape ROCKS, I love the simplicity.
Have those Violets made that light look more 'white' to the eye? Seems that way in the pictures..


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## bluediscus (Jul 31, 2009)

I suppose the vero 29's would have been overkill for this application! It seems like you can even get away with 4 vero 18's run at high current for your setup.

Nice layout! Are those Tillandsias? Be careful they don't fall in the tank. Mine fell in for 2 days... I tried to dry it out but it eventually disintegrated after a week.


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## limz_777 (Jun 29, 2005)

whats the total watt for this diy ?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

bluediscus said:


> I suppose the vero 29's would have been overkill for this application! It seems like you can even get away with 4 vero 18's run at high current for your setup.
> 
> Nice layout! Are those Tillandsias? Be careful they don't fall in the tank. Mine fell in for 2 days... I tried to dry it out but it eventually disintegrated after a week.


Yeah I have it hung so high that 4 Vero 18's would have definitely been enough. The Tilly's are glued to the wood so hopefully they will stay on there.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

limz_777 said:


> whats the total watt for this diy ?


Total maximum watts I can push is as follows:

5600K Vero - 48W ea x 3
2700K Vero - 30W ea x 3
Violets - 9.6W ea x 6

Total: 291.6W

What I am actually running though to get 130 PAR 3ft down is ~120W. The max wattage above is limited by my current drivers. I could get drivers that push max current to the Vero's and then I am looking at ~452W.

My original plan was to go 6x 3ft T5HO but with this I am saving at least $100/year on bulbs.

What I also like about the Ledil reflectors is that the LEDs are putting out a laser beam of light like my old LED system with 3W stars. So for example with 110 PAR at the substrate I get 200 PAR at the top of the tank. With my old setup if I pushed 100 PAR to the substrate the top of my tank would get ~450 PAR.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Pagey said:


> That looks amazing mate. The scape ROCKS, I love the simplicity.
> Have those Violets made that light look more 'white' to the eye? Seems that way in the pictures..


Yeah it's definitely made the tank look whiter which I like. I prefer a color temp closer to 6000K which is a nice white. I am pushing the violets hard too so I like how they barely mess with the look.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

This is my new layout for the inside of the light since my old fans blew. I was hating how loud the power supply fan was when kicking in every 60 seconds but with that bad boy in the middle now I can push all LED's at full power and the fan in the PSU never kicks in. Also my heatsink is now cold to the touch no matter what.

For reference those are 120mm fans on top of the heatsink and the big boy in the middle is 200mm. The big boy not only cools my PSU but also my drivers which would get hot especially the one's from O2Surplus which can push up to 1600ma. That sucker pushes so much air and it's almost silent for $12.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

gus6464 said:


> This is my new layout for the inside of the light since my old fans blew.


I'm not saying anything..


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

jeffkrol said:


> I'm not saying anything..


Haha they blew because my 12v stepdown failed. Learned my lesson and now all 12V equipment is on it's own wall wart.


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## skanderson (Jul 25, 2010)

any updates on this build and tank. I am considering doing a diy vero for a large planted tank and was wondering how this looked when grown in. thanks, steve


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

skanderson said:


> any updates on this build and tank. I am considering doing a diy vero for a large planted tank and was wondering how this looked when grown in. thanks, steve


Last I saw Gus went from FW back to SW.. couldn't get a handle on algae..
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2436098


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## skanderson (Jul 25, 2010)

thanks for letting me know.


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

Haha yeah I went back to SW. I was never happy with the scape of that tank and then buces died so meh just lost interest. I am now full bore saltwater and obsessed with acropora at the moment. Still tinkering with lights though as even the saltwater stuff isn't perfect. I still have all my planted tank gear so might setup another tank with a modified version of this light. I still have all my vero and even snazzier electronics.


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