# Need some help building my ADA stand.



## [email protected] (Jul 17, 2008)

Lap joints or butt joints?
Either should be fine, but I'm guessing butt joints as you are having Lowes cut the wood for you. Especially since you are making this a double box, half inch plywood will be plenty. Except for the 3/8 round over quarter inch would probably be plenty for a five gallon tank. Double 3/4" ply would be overkill. 

Plywood routs fine - but. There may be voids that you will have to fill. Such is the nature of the product. 

I've never used a two part epoxy coating. The video at the home improvement store makes it look easy. Since it appears to be self leveling, I'd suggest you practice on some scrap first. 

Personally I'd start over on the plans and save even more wood. You really aren't looking at much weight. Properly glued, an interior frame of 1x skinned with 1/2 inch birch plywood will be more than sufficient. I think you could probably get this down to half a sheet of material and have pieces for shelves. With cabinet grade birch plywood and not birch veneered whatever, 3/8" would be fine. 

Have fun.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

The problem with 1x framing inside is that isn't what I'm looking for. I'm not worried about the cost of the ply but am looking for a seamless stand inside and out. No frame and skin. I could do it with alot less material that way but hate the looks of it.

I figured there would be some voids in the ply, this stuff is $50 a sheet and is cabinet grade. I figure I will just use a high quality wood filler to help smooth it out.

Downloading google sketchup now...


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

Check unirdnas build journal 

doubling the ply is over-done. with 3/4" you will be more than fine for only 5G, even 1/2" will work but I haven't seen good quality at HD or Loews around here. Just check the AGA or Perfecto stands for 90+G. Check into pocket hole joints for strong and easy joints. 

I used 3/4" cabinet grade ply for a 90G stand. Worked very well in my opinion.

Good luck!


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Jens said:


> Check unirdnas build journal
> 
> doubling the ply is over-done. with 3/4" you will be more than fine for only 5G, even 1/2" will work but I haven't seen good quality at HD or Loews around here. Just check the AGA or Perfecto stands for 90+G. Check into pocket hole joints for strong and easy joints.
> 
> ...


That would be nice if I had a biscuit jointer / pocket screw set and a workshop but I live in an apartment and it is currently -5 outside. Everything has to be done inside my apartment. Also I can find nice 1/2" but the 3/4" at Lowes looks like crap. Home Depot has some nice stuff but they only garuntee cuts within 3/8" locally:icon_eek: here. Menards as some really nice stock but they don't cut plywood:icon_cry:.

Oh yeah I tried google sketch up and don't like it... blah.

Craig


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

this is my ada knock off style stand in oak .








here is a pic of the inside









is this what you are trying to do? but in grey?


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

yep...


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

1/2 inch would be fine for the wieght but i would probally do 3/4. the reason being is that plywood at home centers i.e. lowes,homedepot etc. is not the straightest/flatest out there and most of the 1/2 stuff they have is warped. 3/4 on the other hand is 50/50 lol! take a friend and try to find the flatest you can! it really matters when you do the door. i would build it with pocket screws and glue!


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

coseal said:


> 1/2 inch would be fine for the wieght but i would probally do 3/4. the reason being is that plywood at home centers i.e. lowes,homedepot etc. is not the straightest/flatest out there and most of the 1/2 stuff they have is warped. 3/4 on the other hand is 50/50 lol! take a friend and try to find the flatest you can! it really matters when you do the door. i would build it with pocket screws and glue!


I'm going to be laminating 2 sheets of 1/2" together for 1" thickness. Also I have to have them make my cuts as I don't own a table saw or have a place to cut wood for that matter. Only problem with living in an apartment is my garage is about 100 ft away and doesn't have power. Plus with as cold as it is I'm not working out in it. 

Craig


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

i just re read your post.... there is no need to double up the wood. with this style of construction your cuts must be square and true. where as a "skinned" stand can be a little "off" in some areas as long as the top is flat and level.


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

you can buy a small "kreg" brand jig for like 20 bucks. makes sure you get the right size screws for the material you are using. i recomend kreg brand screws as well! they are square drive tho so you may need to pick up a bit. with a shop vac i can easily see doing this in my living room =)


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

i have some construction pics of a couple i have made. if you want me to post them i will. might help with your design. i dont wanna clog up your thread with my pics. lmk


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

go ahead and post them. I may go with a single sheet of 3/4" as if I make it similar to yours I can get it all out of one sheet.

Craig


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

this one is for a 30x30 cube tank about 80 gals








and an inside shot








this one is for 36x24. 
























this stand was "doubled" up like you were talking about.. 








way overkill for a 5 gal tank! hope these pics help some


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Thanks for the pics... I am going to do just a single 3/4" Birch cabinet ply stand. I think I will put a space inside of it to be hard wired for built in timers and outlets.


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

Craig, I'm interested to see how yours turns out. I want to build one like this for a 29 gallon or an ADA in the future. I'm curious if you plan to put laminate on the cut ends of the plywood. That seems to be the part I would struggle with as I have little woodworking knowledge/experience. 

Coseal, did you have laminate glued to your cut ends? Also, did you use biscuits or the pocket screws with the kreg kit?


That stand of unirndas looks so nice!


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

helgymatt said:


> Craig, I'm interested to see how yours turns out. I want to build one like this for a 29 gallon or an ADA in the future. I'm curious if you plan to put laminate on the cut ends of the plywood. That seems to be the part I would struggle with as I have little woodworking knowledge/experience.
> 
> Coseal, did you have laminate glued to your cut ends? Also, did you use biscuits or the pocket screws with the kreg kit?
> 
> ...


 
KREGs' is a pocket screw set. I will probably buy one tomorrow if I can get the wood cut right. I will be using a 2 part epoxy so no need for me to laminate the ends as I will just fill the ruff spots and the epoxy will cover everything else. No staining here.

Craig


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

so you use the epoxy to finish the ends and as an overall finish/(varnish)? Will the epoxied ends looks as nice as the laminate ends?


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I'm going to epoxy the whole stand. It will be grey like the ADA ones


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

helgymat,
i used edgebanding made by "band-it" and kreg pocket screws w/ titebond2 wood glue.

craigthor,
i really think you should consider laminating the ends of the plywood. the epoxy still applies like paint. and end cuts on plywood tend to be pretty rough.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

coseal said:


> helgymat,
> i used edgebanding made by "band-it" and kreg pocket screws w/ titebond2 wood glue.
> 
> craigthor,
> i really think you should consider laminating the ends of the plywood. the epoxy still applies like paint. and end cuts on plywood tend to be pretty rough.


being as how they will be rounded I think it will be hard to laminate them. Also that is what Bondo is for if need be


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

Sounds cool craig! 

Coseal, is that edgebanding available at lowes or HD?


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I think I saw some at Lowes...


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

helgymatt said:


> Sounds cool craig!
> 
> Coseal, is that edgebanding available at lowes or HD?


yeah the iron on kind.. they have a press on kind as well


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

Check some of roybot's journals. I'm pretty sure he has instructions on how to make one. I think I saw some blueprints somewhere online as well.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

clwatkins10 said:


> Check some of roybot's journals. I'm pretty sure he has instructions on how to make one. I think I saw some blueprints somewhere online as well.


 
Jason Baliban built a nice one also. That is where the inspiration came from. I figure I can build this one for around $125. 

$50 Cabinet grade ply
$60 2 Part Epoxy
$15 Misc screws, hinges and such that I don't have.

A friend I asked to help has the router and pocket screw jig. All I need is the wood cut as he doesn't have a table saw anymore.

I was thinking of hardwiring my outlets but decided not two. I have 2 good quality digital timers and that is all I really need. One for Lights and one for CO2 as it comes on 1/2 hour before. Then 2 plugs for the Heater and Filter. A power strip will keep thing nice and tidy when put together.

Craig


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

So will your old stand be the home of a new tank :hihi:


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

clwatkins10 said:


> So will your old stand be the home of a new tank :hihi:


 
Nope.. Just one tank for me, I cured my MTS when I had 18 tanks running late last year:eek5:


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

Craigthor said:


> Nope.. Just one tank for me, I cured my MTS when I had 18 tanks running late last year:eek5:


Yeah, and then sold me your CO2 system and got me started on high tech  :icon_roll lol


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

Good stuff! KREG is what I used too, works great. Keep is simple, it is just a 5G tank. coseal put up some nice pics.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I have to say. I love the KREG Pocket screw tool. Makes building a breeze and it looks great too. Got the stand about 50% built. It looks like ADA. Actualyl its all built except for drilling the holes for the Tubing in and out and for the power strip to go out the back. It needs abit of sanding as a few of the joints aren't perfect. I choose to build the stand out of solid Aspen. I bought 11' at 20" wide and it made everything easy as half the panels were 20" wide. It will also router better when I go and do the 3/8" quarter round on the corner. The door is about 1/8" out farther the the rest  I use the hidden hinges euro overlay style. I may just grab a scrap of some 1/8" stock and adhere it to the front top panel so it is all the same. Pics will come later as I have to finish cleaning the house before the wife gets home.:eek5::confused1:

If she asks you guys made me build it. And it saved me $500 on the ADA one:redface:. 

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Now the pics...


























































Craig


----------



## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Nice! :thumbsup:


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Looks great! Nice job!


----------



## coseal (May 26, 2008)

turned out nice! curious to see how that epoxy is going to work for you...


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

coseal said:


> turned out nice! curious to see how that epoxy is going to work for you...


I found out they also make an epoxy ofr household projects that may work better as its designed for wood use. Will probably be a couple of weeks before I get to the sealing stage.

Craig


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

Nice! Me next


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

clwatkins10 said:


> Nice! Me next


shipping would be killer. I may start making some of them though. I really would want a table saw for that though.

Craig


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

Craigthor said:


> shipping would be killer. I may start making some of them though. I really would want a table saw for that though.
> 
> Craig


haha, I was just pulling your leg  I know shipping would be a lot. Though it would be an awesome stand!


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

nice job! i like the simplicity. it's hard to beat the ada look.

i had an observation about the wood. i can't tell for certain,(pic quality - i needed a closer look) but it looks like that wood had been edge-glued together. i work in a mill that makes that exact product. actually, i run the the machine glues that stuff together. we use water soluble glue. most others do as well. after that wood gets wet(for an extended amount of time), it's all over. this may not be the case for your exact wood, some use an epoxy based glue(nasty stuff for us, we tried it a couple of times) and it will be fine. i read earlier that you were going to use an epoxy coating. smart move, it will pay off just for piece of mind alone. anyway, i can't wait to see your tank on top of that stand!


edit- just one more thing. in case you don't already have on in there, i would highly recommend a brace that runs along in the middle length wise of the top. that stuff can sag over time. i know it seems silly for a fifty-five pound tank, but it's always better to over build than under build.


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

That turned out great. Does aspen stain nice? If so, I vote for stain!

Where did you find that wood? Are you serious about making more stands? I might be interested if the price is right!


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Thanks, yes it is glued edge Aspen atleast that what I assume. the seams are really clean unlike glued edge pine. I will be sealing this with a 2 part epoxy as why I choose this to work with. I think it till route well when I round over the edges. 

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

helgymatt said:


> That turned out great. Does aspen stain nice? If so, I vote for stain!
> 
> Where did you find that wood? Are you serious about making more stands? I might be interested if the price is right!


 
It would probably stain well with some pre conditioner. I know it will soak up stain fast as its not super hard like oak. I'm thinking about making some in the near future. Got the wood at Menards. Was about $100 for 2 6'x20" sheets and 1 3'x20" sheet.

I will be using 2 part epoxy to get the look of the ADA stands.

Craig


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

haha, we were making alder panels today. looks a lot like that.


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Craigthor said:


> Was about $100 for 2 6'x20" sheets and 1 3'x20" sheet.Craig


ouch! you don't even want to know what that costs us, lol.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

oldpunk78 said:


> ouch! you don't even want to know what that costs us, lol.



$15  Then you add re packaging, delivery to stores warehouse, delivery to store, etc, etc...


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

That is certainly a beautiful bit of woodworking. I haven't seen that alder material anyplace around here, just smaller, but thicker pieces of edge glued pine. Also, I can't see the 1/8 inch difference in thickness you mentioned. Is that the gap between the door and the top front panel?


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Hoppy said:


> That is certainly a beautiful bit of woodworking. I haven't seen that alder material anyplace around here, just smaller, but thicker pieces of edge glued pine. Also, I can't see the 1/8 inch difference in thickness you mentioned. Is that the gap between the door and the top front panel?


yes its actually only about 1/16th. Most can but I can. the hinges can't o back any further or the door wouldn't open right. oh well.

Craig


----------



## jinx© (Oct 17, 2007)

That turned out great Craig.roud:


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

Nice job. Get some pocket hole plugs


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Jens said:


> Nice job. Get some pocket hole plugs


Already got them just have to put them in. They are abit long so I need to trim them down a touch.

Craig


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

You glue them in and sand them down to be flush.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Jens said:


> You glue them in and sand them down to be flush.


I know but I want to save myself a touch of sanding. they stick up almot 1/4" and not hte easiest to get at some of them.

Off to the store need more wood glue and some other stuff.

Craig


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

Flush Cutting Trim Saw

Ain't too easy to get the angle right otherwise. But I'll give you just some options. You been doing a excellent job so far. 

I'm myself are all for the real wood look, the aspen looks very nice for that. And the stand won't be exposed to water constantly. How much is the epoxy? May not be worth the expense...


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Jens said:


> Flush Cutting Trim Saw
> 
> Ain't too easy to get the angle right otherwise. But I'll give you just some options. You been doing a excellent job so far.
> 
> I'm myself are all for the real wood look, the aspen looks very nice for that. And the stand won't be exposed to water constantly. How much is the epoxy? May not be worth the expense...


 
Thanks for the Link. I'm going epoxy on this one. If I decide to stain one I would buy Red Oak which I love. Oak was much more expensive about $180 for solid Oak. 

Going for the full ADA look. Got some glue and filler as not all the cuts came out 100% Actually just one front corner mostly and where the inside corner of the door chipped need filled. I figure I will use my dremel to remove the bulk of the plugs with a sanding bit.

Boy are router bits expensive. :eek5: The 1/4" quarter round bit is $22 on sale and the Flush Cut bit was $18. 

They had a Multi cutting tool similar to the Roto Zip that had a router plate for it anyone got experience using one of those? It would come in handy as it had multiple uses.

Craig


----------



## airborne_r6 (May 2, 2008)

Craigthor said:


> yes its actually only about 1/16th. Most can but I can. the hinges can't o back any further or the door wouldn't open right. oh well.
> 
> Craig


I have installed thousands of cabinets built in the style that the ADA stands are built in. The way that this gap is taken care off is with rubber stick on door bumpers that are 1/16th inch thick. They go on the side of the door opposite the hinges and hold the door so that it has the same gap on both sides and then one goes behind each corner of the panel above the door holding it out the same distance. This makes the panel above look like a drawer and matches the gap all the way around the front. It also makes the door close quieter. 

These are the bumpers I am talking about:
http://www.cabinetmart.com/57-23.html
Usually Lowes, Home Depot or your local hardware store has them.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I saw thsoe and had that thought. Actually what I will end up doing is taking the router to the hinge side to bring it back about 1/8" so that it leave the perfect edge. I would have accounted for it before mounting the side panels but didn't have a clear idea how big the gap was going to be.

Craig


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Craigthor said:


> yes its actually only about 1/16th. Most can but I can. the hinges can't o back any further or the door wouldn't open right. oh well.
> 
> Craig


Now I understand. Those Euro style hinges are made for specific thickness doors, usually 3/4 inch for the ones we buy, but your door is thicker. There are some hinges made for thicker doors, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5832, which would be the neatest way to fix this.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Hoppy said:


> Now I understand. Those Euro style hinges are made for specific thickness doors, usually 3/4 inch for the ones we buy, but your door is thicker. There are some hinges made for thicker doors, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5832, which would be the neatest way to fix this.


 
Actually my door is only 3/4" thick. I just didn't leave enough of a gap for the door to close tight with out overhanging a touch.

Craig


----------



## BiscuitSlayer (Apr 1, 2005)

Craigthor -

The stand looks great man. I can't wait to see the finished product. I am a little confused as to the epoxy that you are going to use to finish it with though. Do you have an example of what you are talking about?


----------



## airborne_r6 (May 2, 2008)

Hoppy said:


> Now I understand. Those Euro style hinges are made for specific thickness doors, usually 3/4 inch for the ones we buy, but your door is thicker. There are some hinges made for thicker doors, http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5832, which would be the neatest way to fix this.


Actually what is going on is that the 3/4 inch door sticks out 1/16th of an inch further than the 3/4 panel directly above it because of the slight space that is necessary for the door to operate. The panel is tight against the case of the cabinet but the door is not.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Here you go:

http://www.quikretecoatings.com/epoxyGarageFloorCoat.jsp


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

airborne_r6 said:


> Actually what is going on is that the 3/4 inch door sticks out 1/16th of an inch further than the 3/4 panel directly above it because of the slight space that is necessary for the door to operate. The panel is tight against the case of the cabinet but the door is not.


Correct, I'm going to router that panel back an 1/8th of an inch so the door sits perfectly flat.

Craig


----------



## airborne_r6 (May 2, 2008)

Craigthor said:


> Correct, I'm going to router that panel back an 1/8th of an inch so the door sits perfectly flat.
> 
> Craig


Thats a good idea. You may want to router the panel on both sides and add the door bumpers on the handle side of the door to keep the door from banging and damaging the finish. If you get the cabinet all the way done and then decide you need the bumpers the handle side will stick out. Routing both sides and adding the bumpers will also give you an even reveal all the way around the door. Gives it a very professional look. I can always tell DIY cabinets because they dont have door bumpers and the hinge side is farther away from the face than the handle side.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

airborne_r6 said:


> Thats a good idea. You may want to router the panel on both sides and add the door bumpers on the handle side of the door to keep the door from banging and damaging the finish. If you get the cabinet all the way done and then decide you need the bumpers the handle side will stick out. Routing both sides and adding the bumpers will also give you an even reveal all the way around the door. Gives it a very professional look. I can always tell DIY cabinets because they dont have door bumpers and the hinge side is farther away from the face than the handle side.


 
Thats the plan. I just need to get ahold of my buddies router to get going again.

Craig


----------



## airborne_r6 (May 2, 2008)

Craigthor said:


> Thats the plan. I just need to get ahold of my buddies router to get going again.
> 
> Craig


Cool, cant wait to see it done.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Just a little update. I'm now the owner of a Plunge Router and a Flush cut Saw (don't tell the wife she would freak.) Got the door areas recessed. I made a small goof on the non hinge side of the stand so I may take it back another 1/16th or so to clean it up.

I also found another paint to use. its about half the cost. Its a 1 part acrylic epoxy made by rustoleum. Comes in Armour Gray which should match nicely. Also since I don't have to mix it I can buy a gallon and only dump out a little bit at a time. I can also buy a second gallon so should I need it.

I found a sweet Belkin Power strip that I will be using. It has 9 plugs but 6 of them can rotate around so I can use my 2 timers and still have access to the 4 other plugs. HD clarence for $17 originally $36. The colors are also a grey and black tone.

I still need to drill the hole in the back for the outlet to go out of but need to finish flush cutting all the plugs first.

I did router the holes in the top of the stand where my tubing will come out of with the 3/16" quarter round and it looks really sweet.

I will post pictures later on.

Craig


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

Sounds great!


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Here are the current pics. My brother is going to bring my palm sander back over to me later tonite as he just got done refinishing a previous stand I built for our old 42g hexagon. 

I even included pictures of my little mess up. After I sand the edge smooth I will fill it with a good filler before I epoxy it.


















































































Craig


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

That's an awesome power strip! If I ever go to Iowa, I want a similar stand!


----------



## Jens (Apr 21, 2006)

It is always nice to have a excuse to get more toys 

Time for the sandpaper and some elbow grease


----------



## brion0 (Sep 28, 2008)

Ive been watcing this thread. When I saw you planed to have H.D. cut plywood for you an the box inside a box idea, thought hes going to have a bunch of peices,all an 1/8 out. Then its going to a nightmare to put together. Choosing solid wood realy made the project more sound. An its coming together nice, one of the better looking diy stands Ive seen here.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Jens said:


> It is always nice to have a excuse to get more toys
> 
> Time for the sandpaper and some elbow grease


 
Got to go to the store or I would have already started it. Not one sheet of sandpaper anywhere. Oh well soemthing to fill my time tomorrow.

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

clwatkins10 said:


> That's an awesome power strip! If I ever go to Iowa, I want a similar stand!


 
Let me know atleast 3 weeks in advance. you buy the wood I could probably make something out of it.

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I'll provide some pictures later this evening. Stand is still over at my friends hosue as the filler was still tacky when we got done. Spent about 2.5 hours sanding and filling on the stand. I will start one more final sanding with a higher grade sand paper and probably do one last fill of of any spots.

We used the Minwax High Performance filler. That stuff is sweet. Uses a 2 part mix.

Hopefully Monday Night or Tuesday I can start epoxying the stand. With my goal to be done by end of the week.

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Time for some new pictures. I've started the sealing process and the first coat went on well. It has a slight texture similar to the ones in the ADA pictures. I will be doing 2 coats through out the entire stand maybe 3. I choose the Battleship Grey 1 part Rustoleum Acryilc Epoxy. I think it will dry darker then the pictures show as I just finished painting in the pictures. I will be doing an additional coat before end of night as I cranked the heat in the apartment.










































The door needs to be finished sanding as it had a deep mark that had to be filled and needed one last coat in my opinion.

Craig


----------



## BradH (May 15, 2008)

Looking good!


----------



## helgymatt (Dec 7, 2007)

Does that brush on?

EDIT...nevermind i see the paint pan


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

helgymatt said:


> Does that brush on?


 
I'm using a roller. It has a slight texture like the side of the fridge. I've got 3 coats on now and will probably put an additional few coats as I ahve 3/4 of a gallon left yet. I will also start painting the door today and probably have to finish it tomorrow.

I'm brushing the corners and you could probably brush the entire thing but I like the looks of the and time saving of the roller.

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

I started the finish on the door after some sanding. Its all coming along nicely. I've started coat number 4 on the stand. Hope to put about 6-7 coats on everything to make sure it is sealed well.

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Also on a side note. Being soft wood this epoxy soaks in really well the first 2 coats. The first coat soaks in almost completely like stain showing the wood grain. I think this will help getting a excellent water proof seal. The door that I painted 15 minutes ago is completely dry to the touch and looks like it has been stained grey.

Craig


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Craig, dont want to bother you too uch but you think there is anyway you could pm what was all needed for this project? I have been looking at the sorry office furniture that I am using as a stang and thinking I want a stand like you just made only in black. Any and all help would be appreciated.

Did I say that stand looks great!


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

bsmith782 said:


> Craig, dont want to bother you too uch but you think there is anyway you could pm what was all needed for this project? I have been looking at the sorry office furniture that I am using as a stang and thinking I want a stand like you just made only in black. Any and all help would be appreciated.
> 
> Did I say that stand looks great!


 
Here is what I used with approx prices.

Everything was purchased from Menards.

2- 20x72x1 Solid Aspen $30ea
1- 20x36x1 solid aspen $19
1- KREG Mini Pocket Screw set $19
1- KREG Screw Bit $4
1- KREG Maple Pocket Screw cover $6
1- KREG 1.25" Coarse Pocket Screws $5 
1- 1/2"x1" Flush cut router bit $17
1- 1/4" Round over bit $22
1- Bottle Wood Glue $5
Various Sand Paper $19
1g Rustoleum 1 Part Acrylic Epoxy Battleship Grey $30
Misc Paint Supplies $30
1 Tool Shop Plunge Rounter $60
1 48" Metal Ruler/ Straight Edge for cutting guide $15
2- European Hidden Hinges $15
1- Flush Cut Saw $15
Circular Saw and Blade already had.
A few clamps

Took about 4 hours to cut the wood and assemble the base stand. Spent about 6 hours sanding and filling till smooth. Lastly however many coats of paint epoxy you want to use. I'm planning on about 10 coats of epoxy to give it a really durable finish. I will then let it cure for 7 days as that is what full cure time is with the epoxy I choose. I've noticed as I get further coats on that itt covers small imperfections. Also the first 3 coats soaked into the wood really well. That would be due to the soft Aspen I choose.

Note I choose aspen over plywood as it routes cleaner on the edges. I feel the solid wood looks better also with less work.

Hope that helps,

Craig


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Would you say that since your going to use ~10 coats of the epoxy that all of the sanding might not be necessary?


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

bsmith782 said:


> Would you say that since your going to use ~10 coats of the epoxy that all of the sanding might not be necessary?


 
Personal preference but I'm a perfectionist so I wanted the stand as close to perfect as I could get it.

Craig


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

:eek5:


----------



## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

But probly not necessary.



Craigthor said:


> Personal preference but I'm a perfectionist so I wanted the stand as close to perfect as I could get it.
> 
> Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Started painting the bottom of the stand and the back of the door. Hope to have it all painted by the end of the day. The Stand has 9-10 coats of epoxy on it. Once I finish I will let the stand sit until Saturday when I do my Water change so that I can switch it all at once.

I will update with a few pictures later today. As it drys it take on almost the color of the ADA light.

Overall I'm really pleased with this project. It was alot of fun and killed about 1.5 weeks of time.

I'm thinking about getting some adjustable feet for the stand to make leveling it out much easier as I know the apartment floor isn't level.

Craig


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

And she's done! :icon_cool I really like how this project turned out. I installed a magnetic door stop to keep children and cats from trying to get inside. It is spring loaded so it hold the door edge even top and bottom.

Installed a dual 25 watt Halogen 13" under cabinet light under the stand. I considered a small 13" flourescent but really liked this one had a metal Frame and not plastic.

Also installed the Power Strip. I got a bunch of black zip ties to keep everything looking clean and also some Black zip tie squares to keep the cords to the sides and not dangling everywhere.

Lastly I installed 7/8" Leveling legs as I know the floor is out of level and to make things easier versus shims. I will screw them all the way in once I install it in place so only what needs to be out is out.

Enjoy the pictures! :icon_eek:










































































I need to let this set for atleast 2 days to allow the epoxy to completely cure out. I may acutally put one last coat on the stand as I have a couple of touch ups to make.

Let me know what you guys/ gals think.

Craig


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Very professional job! It looks great. I never remember to put a light in my stands, and that is really needed to see bubble counters, timer settings, etc.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

Hoppy said:


> Very professional job! It looks great. I never remember to put a light in my stands, and that is really needed to see bubble counters, timer settings, etc.


 
Thanks, Whats nice is the light I pocked out has a low and high light setting. So I can do small changes or major wok depending on what I need.

Saturday Morning I will change over to this stand as that is water change day and should allow plenty of time to fully setup.

Craig


----------



## BradH (May 15, 2008)

Looks great!


----------



## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

nice job.


----------



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

What they said^ Nice job and it looks great!


----------



## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

well done!


----------



## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

Very, very nice, Craig. :thumbsup: Nice call on the light, too; mine's been invaluable for quick fixes and late night mods, especially since I have no overhead lighting in the room my aquarium is in. Since I don't have to rely on the tank lights' spilled light, the fish don't even know I'm down there working! 

When I get my next tank I'm certainly going to be pulling this up for reference, as although I love my stand, I don't think I'll be paying for another custom build...If you just mention the words "aquarium stand" to a woodworker, I'm convinced the price automatically triples. :icon_roll


----------



## jinx© (Oct 17, 2007)

roud: Turned out top notch I'd say. Those levelers were a great addition as well.


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

jinx© said:


> roud: Turned out top notch I'd say. Those levelers were a great addition as well.


I agree, the levelers only have a plastic mount but if I get bored tomorrow I may go to see if I can find some metal mounts.

Craig


----------



## travis.808 (Apr 6, 2009)

Craig followed your thread over from APC nice work! I'm gonna start my build and want to research as much as possible. :thumbsup:


----------



## Craigthor (Sep 9, 2007)

travis.808 said:


> Craig followed your thread over from APC nice work! I'm gonna start my build and want to research as much as possible. :thumbsup:


LMK if I can help.

Craig


----------

