# 30 Gallon Aquarium Stand Project



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you use birch for the stand, and want a really easy to use, splotch free way of coloring the wood, try this: http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=760 I have used these dyes several times and have always been totally satisfied with them. You can mix colors until you get exactly the color you want, and best of all, it doesn't give you splotchy areas that can make regular wood stain jobs look so bad.


----------



## CAM6467 (Feb 11, 2009)

Interesting. I haven't ever used a dye before, but I have heard so much about them. Do you simply mix the dye with water and then rub it into the wood? Can you still apply poly without messing up the dye? I am definately going to look into these dyes. I hate having to stain large surface areas....You always seem to end up with darker/splotchy areas. Thank a bunch *Hoppy*!:thumbsup::thumbsup:

EDIT: *Hoppy*, by the way that you worded your statement I get the idea that this dye is best for use on birch. Is that so?


----------



## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

That dye is a powder which dissolves in either water or alcohol. You swab it on generously, wait a few seconds and wipe the excess off, to even it out better. Then wait for it to dry thoroughly, usually overnight is all it takes, and apply whatever clear finish you want. If you use alcohol it dries a lot faster, but, I found it dried too fast and I sometimes got streaky results. The dye is suitable for any wood, but birch is so light it really works well on that wood. Birch also has a wavy grain that causes stains to absorb heavily in some areas right adjacent to areas where it absorbs poorly, leaving a splotchy appearance. The dye doesn't do that nearly as much.

When you use stain you can use a pre-stain conditioner that stops a lot of the blotchiness, but, my experience was that the conditioner also greatly limited the darkness you could get with the stain.

My wife used to insist that I match the color of some existing piece of furniture, and dyes let me do it. I would take a long strip of the same plywood used for the furniture and apply various mixes of colors in 6 inch long areas, then let it dry, apply a clear coat, and compare the result with the existing furniture. After 2 or 3 of those attempts I could usually get a good match. And, I only used 3 dye colors, as I recall.

Also, any stain/dyed finish does better if the first coat of clear finish is a shellac based sanding sealer. That isolates the dye/stain from the acrylic finish, if that is what you use.


----------



## rolfester (Apr 24, 2015)

what exactly did you use lap joints on. On what part of the aquarium? I'm pretty sure it wasn't the table legs was it being that they are attached 90 degrees together...


----------



## rolfester (Apr 24, 2015)

did you use the lap Joints on the frames? even that I could see being difficult being that the boards don't overlap at all they are flush to onE another. I could see the kreg pocket screws on all of it, however but not the lap but not the lap joints


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Since it's getting skinned pocket holes are unnecessary. Especially on your legs. You have a simple butt joint there. Edge to face. Glue it and screw it right through the 2 x 4. The glue will do most of the job screws will act as the clamp. 
Personally I like a 1/2" plywood for a skin. 1/4" just rattles when you tap it and that makes me think cheesy.
The raised panels should all be in the same plane as the rails and stiles and not protrude above when done right. I've seen too many doors where the panel sticks above the frame.

If you're more familiar with stain over dyes you can use a wood conditioner to minimize any blotching. While pine and softwoods are notorious for blotching so is cherry and a few other hardwoods. Blotching is more apparent on a light stain. Maple is a tough wood to stain dark.


----------



## rolfester (Apr 24, 2015)

Gotcha. Thanks. I think the 90% 2 x 4 leg connections were just optionally referred to above in the original post as a lap joint even though there are actual LAP JOINTS and half lap joints which are different as opposed to a basic butt joint.


----------



## rolfester (Apr 24, 2015)

Slowly but SURELY! Lol


----------



## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Since you already have started this it's likely useless info, but MarineLand has a 40H
tank that they list as 36"x13"x 20". I mentioned this simply because in 30" you have
a whopping choice of about three different bulbs to choose from that are available.
But in 24" or 48" there are so many...the 36" has all those same bulbs.
Making your fixture to hold 24" bulbs would multiply the bulb choices by many
many times. Just a piece of info often over looked during that "which tank size"
decision process.
I'd love to have a wood shop so I could make stands etc. Have a little of exp in
that aria. But all hello would break out if I cranked up a router where I now live.
Or a Skill saw. Actually had an interesting time bringing a piece of 5/8 ply up
the stairs to my apartment for another project a while back. By myself I should add.
Good thing I let the man at the lumber yard talk me into it as opposed to the 3/4"
that I first asked about.
Keep those pictures coming. What you have so far looks great...


----------



## rolfester (Apr 24, 2015)

Done


----------



## rolfester (Apr 24, 2015)

Done


----------

