# Remove glued fitting from bulkhead?



## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

Is it a glass tank? Heat is the only way I know of to remove a glued fitting. You can cut one end as close to the fitting as possible and heat from the inside with a heat gun and twist and pull the remaining pipe until it comes out. The fitting should come loose before the glass even gets warm.

Dan


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

Yes it's glass! So there's hope?

Bump: Just FYI the tank is a Marineland RR 60 cube with stand for $100!


----------



## Bunsen Honeydew (Feb 21, 2017)

Do you have a picture?


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

By glued, I might assume that you actually mean solvent welded as that is the norm? If glued there are a number of ways. 
If welded as in the normal PVC work, it becomes difficult but not impossible. Depends on your outlook and what parts you want to save. There are reaming tools to use to remove the fitting but they are expensive so not likely to be something you want. That leaves you maybe down to some delicate work that may or may not work out. I have removed part from fitting by carefully using a Dremel style tool and grinding it out. But it is tedious and prone to going too far and ruining the piece. I only do it when desperate and not just to save the expense of the part but to avoid things like removing a wall section!


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

This tank is factory drilled with the overflow directly over the return. If you look closely at the return fitting you can see the purple PVC cement. I have to be able to save the bulkheads because this tank has a low profile overflow and there's no way to replace them without cutting the overflow out completely. 

Plan B is to cut out the overflow then cut off the bulkheads and install new bulkheads and cap them off. The wife will most likely not approve just using a glass patch applied with silicone. Ideally, I'd like to use a sump on this tank.


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Okay, since they did use the purple primer, I would assume it is going to be near impossible to actually break the joint loose. The purple is a way to start the PVC melting process before the solvent is used. It makes the PVC softer and that really makes it melt totally together when it gets done. 
IF (big IF!) one is dedicated enough he "Might" be able to salvage the fittings by slowly, carefully sanding /grinding the parts off but it does really get iffy to try it. When both primer and solvent have been used the two parts are nearly the same and it is going to be really hard to tell where one stops and the other begins. An actual weld, not just a glue job.


----------



## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

I agree with @PlantedRich it is actually solvent welded. The bond however is extremely shallow and is much more vulnerable to heat than PVC alone. When you heat it up it softens this surface bond so much that it can be pulled apart. I would assume this is because the surface bond made is a chemical reaction and changes the chemical makeup of the bonded area changing its properties. If it were actually plastic welded rather than solvent (chemically) welded you would not be able to do this. I have to disagree that its totally melted together as the primer reach a few thousands of an inch deep. I have always used a heat gun but some people say they have been able to do it even with a hair dryer.

Here is a good link to proper use and gives a good description of how PVC glue/cement/solvent works.

http://www.aetnaplastics.com/site_m...product/246/Weld-On Solvent Welding Guide.pdf

Dan


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

Ok, I'm going to go for it and hope for the best! I'll post pics in a couple weeks.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

PlantedRich said:


> Okay, since they did use the purple primer, I would assume it is going to be near impossible to actually break the joint loose. The purple is a way to start the PVC melting process before the solvent is used. It makes the PVC softer and that really makes it melt totally together when it gets done.
> IF (big IF!) one is dedicated enough he "Might" be able to salvage the fittings by slowly, carefully sanding /grinding the parts off but it does really get iffy to try it. When both primer and solvent have been used the two parts are nearly the same and it is going to be really hard to tell where one stops and the other begins. An actual weld, not just a glue job.


That is what the primer people want you to think but this is the link I posted in another thread disproving that primer is better.
https://www.plumbingsupply.com/the-great-pvc-primer-debate.html


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Dragonfish said:


> This tank is factory drilled with the overflow directly over the return. If you look closely at the return fitting you can see the purple PVC cement. I have to be able to save the bulkheads because this tank has a low profile overflow and there's no way to replace them without cutting the overflow out completely.
> 
> Plan B is to cut out the overflow then cut off the bulkheads and install new bulkheads and cap them off. The wife will most likely not approve just using a glass patch applied with silicone. Ideally, I'd like to use a sump on this tank.


Another low profile bulkhead won't fit in?

If not you could try using a male electrical fitting with a threaded busing on the inside and the outside then tighten them together. Use an o-ring, or make a washer for the inside. I've used this method before and it works well. 
Unlike white pvc electrical is not tapered.


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

I can't seem to find a short bulkhead under 1.5".


----------



## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

Dragonfish said:


> This tank is factory drilled with the overflow directly over the return. If you look closely at the return fitting you can see the purple PVC cement. I have to be able to save the bulkheads because this tank has a low profile overflow and there's no way to replace them without cutting the overflow out completely.
> 
> Plan B is to cut out the overflow then cut off the bulkheads and install new bulkheads and cap them off. The wife will most likely not approve just using a glass patch applied with silicone. Ideally, I'd like to use a sump on this tank.





Maybe I'm missing something here; but why do you absolutely need to remove that glued elbow? How was the original owner using this and what did he/she do with that elbow?

I'll assume that the elbow it sits higher than the top of the tank essentially making the overflow useless? If so maybe you could just leave it be and drill another hole somewhere in the tank to be used as you see fit? Are there true bulkheads in the tank that are threaded? Could you possible loosen them up and simply turn the elbow to face down and then you can use a sump as intended?


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

This is a really good view of how the back of the tank looks stock. They don't use short on these. 










Bump: Sorry, to answer the above question yes they pointed those straight up to eliminate the overflow. I'm hoping they didn't actually glue the pvc into the bulkhead.


----------



## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

Dragonfish said:


> This is a really good view of how the back of the tank looks stock. They don't use short on these.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




did they say why they eliminated the overflow and if that worked for them? If so, just ignore it and drill a hole wherever you see fit to use your sump. But looking at the photo it shouldn't matter where/how they glued it. You should be able to loosen up that nut on the overflow enough to spin the entire thing and make the elbow point down making it useful again.

Hang on a second. The more I look at it the more I wonder if you're over-reacting. The purple primer on the return is only visible at the top end; where they attached what looks to be a barb and then a section of hose to bring that lowest overflow above the height of the tank. The opposite side of the pvc would be attached to the threaded portion of the bulkhead. Are you 100% those are actually glued to the bulkhead and wont just turn off?


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

OMG I didn't even think of just spinning the damn thing. 

No, I'm not 100% sure but I asked her if she did and she said yes. We'll see next weekend!


----------



## FishEggs (Mar 19, 2017)

As i was reading i was wondering why you couldn't just loosen the bulkhead and turn the elbow to face down? But then i saw some one already mentioned that.


----------



## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

Dragonfish said:


> OMG I didn't even think of just spinning the damn thing.
> 
> No, I'm not 100% sure but I asked her if she did and she said yes. We'll see next weekend!


LOL...keep us updated by I have a funny feeling its going to work out better than expected!


----------



## theDCpump (Jul 22, 2016)

I had a few bookmarks for bulkheads.
I hope all goes well.


https://www.plumbingsupply.com/bulkhead.html

Bulkhead Fittings & Adapters Category | Bulkhead Fitting, PVC Bulkhead Fittings and Bulkhead Adapters. | U.S. Plastic Corp.

Banjo Blk PP Bulkhead Fittings

Bulkheads - Bulk Reef Supply


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

lksdrinker said:


> LOL...keep us updated by I have a funny feeling its going to work out better than expected!


Wrong! :grin2: Brought the tank home yesterday and the tank's glass is in great shape, not a scratch on it. The plastic trim however is a joke. It annoys me when sellers don't bother disclosing issues like this. I drove an hour and a half to get the tank though so I decided to buy it anyway. Paid $90. The bottom trim has a chunk missing I'll have to repair and the top trim is all dinged up. That's not the worst of it though. Some previous owner removed all the return plumbing; the 90 elbow and all the lock line is gone. The overflow is so narrow there is only one way to fix this. Cut the overflow out, fix the plumbing and silicone it back in. :crying: That's not all! They also somehow removed the drain bulkhead and reinstalled it backwards so there is only 1/8" between the bulkhead and the overflow. This would kill the flow so it has to be fixed too. I'll post pics tonight so you can see the stupidity. 

The other option is to cap off the bulkheads and just use a canister filter but that would be a shame to lose the sump.

Wait! This might work. Looks like the return plumbing starts with a 3/4" street elbow, I might be able to squeeze that in there. For the drain I might be able to use this bulkhead and install an external durso off the back?

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/low-profile-bulkhead-overflow-strainers.html


----------



## tatersalad (Dec 7, 2011)

Dragonfish said:


> Wrong! :grin2: Brought the tank home yesterday and the tank's glass is in great shape, not a scratch on it. The plastic trim however is a joke. It annoys me when sellers don't bother disclosing issues like this. I drove an hour and a half to get the tank though so I decided to buy it anyway. Paid $90. The bottom trim has a chunk missing I'll have to repair and the top trim is all dinged up. That's not the worst of it though. Some previous owner removed all the return plumbing; the 90 elbow and all the lock line is gone. The overflow is so narrow there is only one way to fix this. Cut the overflow out, fix the plumbing and silicone it back in. :crying: That's not all! They also somehow removed the drain bulkhead and reinstalled it backwards so there is only 1/8" between the bulkhead and the overflow. This would kill the flow so it has to be fixed too. I'll post pics tonight so you can see the stupidity.
> 
> The other option is to cap off the bulkheads and just use a canister filter but that would be a shame to lose the sump.
> 
> ...


I use that same exact low-profile strainer on my overflow but it is for 1" pipe. It works well and it is threaded so you can remove it periodically and clean it. Are you saying that on the drain bulkhead that it is installed backwards? Like the long threaded part is inside the overflow box? If so, you should be able to grab the nut on the inside with some pliers and spin the bulkhead from the outside and remove it to re-install it correctly. No matter what you end up doing though, bulkheads are not expensive. I would recommend replacing both of them if you weren't going to already. Check out www.marinedepot.com they have quite a few bulkhead/plumbing parts also.


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

Yes exactly, and yes it will be easy to remove. The issue was there is no way there is enough room to install a standard depth bulkhead the correct way with the nut on the outside of the tank. 

How do you install that low profile strainer? Just like a normal bulkhead?


----------



## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

Dragonfish said:


> It annoys me when sellers don't bother disclosing issues like this. I drove an hour and a half to get the tank though so I decided to buy it anyway. Paid $90. The bottom trim has a chunk missing I'll have to repair and the top trim is all dinged up. That's not the worst of it though.


Sounds like a deal I would've walked away from after venting to the seller that he wasted a whole lot of my time and effort! 



Dragonfish said:


> Some previous owner removed all the return plumbing; the 90 elbow and all the lock line is gone. The overflow is so narrow there is only one way to fix this. Cut the overflow out, fix the plumbing and silicone it back in. :crying: That's not all! They also somehow removed the drain bulkhead and reinstalled it backwards so there is only 1/8" between the bulkhead and the overflow. This would kill the flow so it has to be fixed too. I'll post pics tonight so you can see the stupidity.


If someone got the old stuff out that implies to me you can get new stuff in without cutting. 




Dragonfish said:


> The other option is to cap off the bulkheads and just use a canister filter but that would be a shame to lose the sump.


It'd be more of a shame to bother buying the tank IMO! 





Dragonfish said:


> Yes exactly, and yes it will be easy to remove. The issue was there is no way there is enough room to install a standard depth bulkhead the correct way with the nut on the outside of the tank.
> 
> How do you install that low profile strainer? Just like a normal bulkhead?


Using bulkheads "backwards" is not unheard of. I run a gl[censored][censored][censored][censored][censored][censored][censored]s.com overflow box and they expect you to run a backwards bulkhead due to the tiny overflow. Works fine.


----------



## tatersalad (Dec 7, 2011)

Dragonfish said:


> Yes exactly, and yes it will be easy to remove. The issue was there is no way there is enough room to install a standard depth bulkhead the correct way with the nut on the outside of the tank.
> 
> How do you install that low profile strainer? Just like a normal bulkhead?


The low profile strainer that I have is threaded so you would have to have an internally threaded bulkhead. They make "slip" bulkheads and "threaded" bulkheads. Can you tell if the one that you have on there now is threaded on the inside or not? This pic shows what I'm talking about, the head on the left is threaded internally and the one on the right is a "slip" bulkhead. In the pic they are flipped upside down, but they are the same internally on the other side too. Meaning if it is threaded on the back then it is threaded on the front too.


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

No, both the drain and return bulkheads are slip.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

tatersalad said:


> The low profile strainer that I have is threaded so you would have to have an internally threaded bulkhead. They make "slip" bulkheads and "threaded" bulkheads. Can you tell if the one that you have on there now is threaded on the inside or not? This pic shows what I'm talking about, the head on the left is threaded internally and the one on the right is a "slip" bulkhead. In the pic they are flipped upside down, but they are the same internally on the other side too. Meaning if it is threaded on the back then it is threaded on the front too.


You can get slip x slip, slip x thread and also thread x thread. Not sure if you can get thread x slip though.


----------



## tatersalad (Dec 7, 2011)

Just to make sure that I am on the same page as you are, the picture you posted of how the bulkheads look on this tank from the factory shows the long part of the bulkhead facing out of the tank and you are saying that on the tank you got that the bulkheads have the long part on the inside of the overflow box? Am I right? It's hard to tell from that first pic you posted.


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

Exactly. From the factory the threads of the bulkhead should be pointing outside the tank but the one I purchased has the threads on the inside of the tank. I got a closer look at it last night and the bulkhead is actually touching the overflow so there's no way I can leave it like that. I found a low profile 1.5" bulkhead but there doesn't seem to be a 1" model. Right now my best idea is to get a thread x thread bulkhead and cut it down enough for me to squeeze it in there. I'll use the strainer on the inside and get a threaded 90 for the outside.


----------



## Kubla (Jan 5, 2014)

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but why not buy a new bulkhead and shorten the threads? If you can't find a short enough one why not just make it shorter?
They usually have way more threaded length then you need.


----------



## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

That only works with threaded bulkheads, which is probably what I'm going to do. Slip bulkheads taper so shortening them doesn't work. I've just spent the last 1/2 hour googling that actually.


----------



## tatersalad (Dec 7, 2011)

Dragonfish said:


> Exactly. From the factory the threads of the bulkhead should be pointing outside the tank but the one I purchased has the threads on the inside of the tank. I got a closer look at it last night and the bulkhead is actually touching the overflow so there's no way I can leave it like that. I found a low profile 1.5" bulkhead but there doesn't seem to be a 1" model. Right now my best idea is to get a thread x thread bulkhead and cut it down enough for me to squeeze it in there. I'll use the strainer on the inside and get a threaded 90 for the outside.


I agree, your best option is to get a thread x thread bulkhead and cut it down just enough for you to get it in there. One idea to help with keeping the threads good enough for you to still thread a 90 on would be to buy a nipple to thread in there before you cut the bulkhead so that when you cut it you will be cutting both the bulkhead and the nipple. Then when you finish the cut you can back out the nipple and the threads on the nipple with keep the thread along the cut edge of the bulkhead straight enough for you to thread on your new 90 without cross-threading it. Good luck and let us know how it comes out.


----------



## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

Dragonfish said:


> That only works with threaded bulkheads, which is probably what I'm going to do. Slip bulkheads taper so shortening them doesn't work. I've just spent the last 1/2 hour googling that actually.


My slips don't have any taper. The pipe, when lubricated with solvent bottoms against the bulkhead same as any other pvc fitting. 

I'd get a slip and if it's 1/2" use schedule 80 (sprinkler pipe) as a nipple
after the cut down bulkhead is inserted. If you need a 90 use a slipxthread street ell pvc fitting. 
1" Schedule 80 PVC Street 90 Elbow, 809-010


----------

