# Iwagumi 6.6 gallon



## dukydaf

Hallo and welcome to the forum and to aquascaping 

2 pots should be enough for this tank. You can separate the plant clumps even more. But if you want to do things fast you can also add another pot of hair grass.

I would say 3-4 amanos should be enough to deal with any rogue algae. 

As a side note, the rock on the left side does not really fit as currently positioned. It seems to have a more porous texture on this side and detracts from the main rock. How does the other side look like ?


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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> Hallo and welcome to the forum and to aquascaping
> 
> 2 pots should be enough for this tank. You can separate the plant clumps even more. But if you want to do things fast you can also add another pot of hair grass.
> 
> I would say 3-4 amanos should be enough to deal with any rogue algae.
> 
> As a side note, the rock on the left side does not really fit as currently positioned. It seems to have a more porous texture on this side and detracts from the main rock. How does the other side look like ?


Thanks for your feedback! I was limited with the stones that I received, because they only had 1 side that was okay. The other side has a strange white coat. This was probably the best setup I could make :frown2:. I liked the stone because of it's complex texture. Altough it is different than the main stone. The idea is that the flow is being placed left; meaning that the stone was their for a longer period of time and has his complex texture. The stone will be covered a little over time by plants so the contrast of distraction will be less I hope. I still agree with your points


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## Nigel95

Growth going pretty slow for my feelings (watching the tank everyday 24/7 lul)

Will growth going faster in the next weeks or stays stable?


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## IntotheWRX

Nigel95 said:


> Growth going pretty slow for my feelings (watching the tank everyday 24/7 lul)
> 
> Will growth going faster in the next weeks or stays stable?


you can break up the plants into even more smaller portions and spread it out. Just my opinion if you want to get your hands dirty again.

The growth will speed up later in the next weeks. The plants need a moment to get "settled in" or "get cozy" in the new environment. Once it sits there for 1-2 weeks and gets used to the new stable and consistent environment, it will then SWITCH GEARS into growing mode. week 3-4 you should see growth for sure. 

I could remember how excited I was checking my dry start everyday. You have to give it time and patience. It will grow. The growth speed will ramp up.


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## Nigel95

That's some good news to hear! I had to order my lily pipes so got an extra dwarf hair grass package . I made the clumps this big because of the advice tropica says (6-9 clumps per package). Yeah it's excited af lol! @IntotheWRX


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## Arrowsfishworld

Looks awesome 


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## Nigel95

Some dwarf hair grass is turning a little bit yellow. Hopefully temporary.....


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## IntotheWRX

Nigel95 said:


> Some dwarf hair grass is turning a little bit yellow. Hopefully temporary.....


keep it wet enough


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## Nigel95

IntotheWRX said:


> keep it wet enough


Confused as I read on the internet yellow can also mean that it is to wet?


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## IntotheWRX

Nigel95 said:


> Confused as I read on the internet yellow can also mean that it is to wet?


lol if its too wet, then what happens when you flood the tank with water? MEGA WET? drowning wet.


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## Nigel95

IntotheWRX said:


> lol if its too wet, then what happens when you flood the tank with water? MEGA WET? drowning wet.


Yeah was thinking the same but just read it somewhere. Some say that the plant loses it old leaves before new runners? Also saw that smaller clumps may be better for carpeting?


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## BettaBettas

Nigel95 said:


> Yeah was thinking the same but just read it somewhere. Some say that the plant loses it old leaves before new runners? Also saw that smaller clumps may be better for carpeting?


 keep it moist. and wet. soaked maybe. and yes smaller the better.


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## Nigel95

BettaBettas said:


> keep it moist. and wet. soaked maybe. and yes smaller the better.


Should I put them out and split them in smaller parts or just wait if this works out?


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## puriance

Nigel95 said:


> Should I put them out and split them in smaller parts or just wait if this works out?


Bumping for this last question as I split about half of my bunches into tiny bunches and am keen to know if I should just do the same thing. Although tbh, my clumps are sending out runners already without CO2 so far. Just ferts.


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## BettaBettas

Nigel95 said:


> Should I put them out and split them in smaller parts or just wait if this works out?


 well I would just leave them like it is for now since that's where they've been for a while I imagine right?

Another idea is, I get my DHG in vitro, so they come in a round container. I split them into 8 pieces or more, sometimes 12 depending on how big the actual in vitro cup is.


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## Nigel95

BettaBettas said:


> well I would just leave them like it is for now since that's where they've been for a while I imagine right?
> 
> Another idea is, I get my DHG in vitro, so they come in a round container. I split them into 8 pieces or more, sometimes 12 depending on how big the actual in vitro cup is.


Yeah it has been 11 days now for the first vitro cup which I splitted into 11 parts. After that I bought another one to fill some gaps and splitted in 8 pieces (few days later). Tbh the pieces are still pretty big compared to pictures on internet. Guess I'm gonna moist it and be patience.


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## BettaBettas

Nigel95 said:


> Yeah it has been 11 days now for the first vitro cup which I splitted into 11 parts. After that I bought another one to fill some gaps and splitted in 8 pieces (few days later). Tbh the pieces are still pretty big compared to pictures on internet. Guess I'm gonna moist it and be patience.


 Sounds good, big clumps don't hurt it they just take slightly longer. long run it will / should be fine if your doing what your doing now.


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## IntotheWRX

IntotheWRX said:


> you can break up the plants into even more smaller portions and spread it out. Just my opinion if you want to get your hands dirty again.
> 
> The growth will speed up later in the next weeks. The plants need a moment to get "settled in" or "get cozy" in the new environment. Once it sits there for 1-2 weeks and gets used to the new stable and consistent environment, it will then SWITCH GEARS into growing mode. week 3-4 you should see growth for sure.
> 
> I could remember how excited I was checking my dry start everyday. You have to give it time and patience. It will grow. The growth speed will ramp up.





Nigel95 said:


> Should I put them out and split them in smaller parts or just wait if this works out?


you can break up the plants into even more smaller portions and spread it out. Just my opinion if you want to get your hands dirty again.


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## Nigel95

updated with pics 14 days going now

monte carlo has grown some

new desk lamp added in the back (not on picture)


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## Nigel95

Thinking about to put a background (blue) to create more depth in it. What do you think?


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## Nigel95

Some new roots popping off, but they are flying in the sky because of my big bushes. What should I do put them in the soil, cut them off and replant, just let it go?

You see like 3-4 small roots if you can see it with my bad camera lol


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## Opare

*My first Aquascape 6.6 gallon - Iwagumi journal*

Blue backgrounds tend to look artifical and not very good IMO; black, frosted or white are better options.
That is perfectly fine how the roots are growing, just leave the plant alone it will grow closer to the substrate by itself.
Just another thing the reason why you can't make the tank too wet in a dry start is because it leads to fungus, mold, blue-green algae etc. I've done it a few times so be careful with how moist you make it. Just make it wet enough that the substrate appears, well, wet...

EDIT: 
Also, smaller clumps of plants are better because you get more coverage from less pots of plants (bang for your buck basically), because they will spread and cover the area eventually. Additionally they grow better since the plant isn't in a huge clump so every part of the plant has access to light etc.

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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Blue backgrounds tend to look artifical and not very good IMO; black, frosted or white are better options.
> That is perfectly fine how the roots are growing, just leave the plant alone it will grow closer to the substrate by itself.
> Just another thing the reason why you can't make the tank too wet in a dry start is because it leads to fungus, mold, blue-green algae etc. I've done it a few times so be careful with how moist you make it. Just make it wet enough that the substrate appears, well, wet...
> 
> EDIT:
> Also, smaller clumps of plants are better because you get more coverage from less pots of plants (bang for your buck basically), because they will spread and cover the area eventually. Additionally they grow better since the plant isn't in a huge clump so every part of the plant has access to light etc.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks for your reply. '

Yeah I tried a few colors with fabric and it's going to be black to create some more depth.

I have a little opening for some more air exchange to avoid fungus/mold etc. 

I bought already the pots but definetly will split more in future tanks. I have a feeling if I'm going to split them now they will get stressed or so, they are rooting nicely now.


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## Opare

Nigel95 said:


> Thanks for your reply. '
> 
> Yeah I tried a few colors with fabric and it's going to be black to create some more depth.
> 
> I have a little opening for some more air exchange to avoid fungus/mold etc.
> 
> I bought already the pots but definetly will split more in future tanks. I have a feeling if I'm going to split them now they will get stressed or so, they are rooting nicely now.


That was a good idea to test it and see what you liked. Mhm openings are good, stale damp air is fungus heaven.
Yeah, I agree I wouldn't split them more at this point, they should still spread nicely, but just something to keep in mind for the future.


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## Nigel95

Finally seeing some dwarf hair grass runners


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## IntotheWRX

Nigel95 said:


> Finally seeing some dwarf hair grass runners


nice. soon you wouldn't be able to count all the runners. then soon the grass will fill every available open space in your tank.


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## BettaBettas

Nigel did you say you had Co2? pshhh! if this is what Co2 is like 
1 day in: planted the DHG
2 days in: OMG FULL CARPET
I cant wait to get my GLA full co2 system right?
lol
POST PICS NIGEL


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## Nigel95

BettaBettas said:


> Nigel did you say you had Co2? pshhh! if this is what Co2 is like
> 1 day in: planted the DHG
> 2 days in: OMG FULL CARPET
> I cant wait to get my GLA full co2 system right?
> lol
> POST PICS NIGEL


Lol I wish I had a full carpet. It is still in dry start with the monte carlo growing a bit and some DHG runners. CO2 system still didn't arrive because 1 item I ordered has a month delivery time... I expect it in like 2 weeks. Monte carlo has still a way to go so not a problem at all. Will post tomorrow a 3 week update (don't expect anything big).


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## Nigel95

IntotheWRX said:


> Nigel95 said:
> 
> 
> 
> Finally seeing some dwarf hair grass runners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> nice. soon you wouldn't be able to count all the runners. then soon the grass will fill every available open space in your tank.
Click to expand...

FeelsGoodMan

Guess the new desk lamp is working because I see more runners right under the lamp.


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## Nigel95

Thinking about to put the most right stone flat. What do you guys think?


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## Opare

Yeah that sounds like a good idea, it sort of goes against the flow standing up. Another thing, I don't think you really need that stone in front of the main stone. It looks sort of out of place.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Yeah that sounds like a good idea, it sort of goes against the flow standing up. Another thing, I don't think you really need that stone in front of the main stone. It looks sort of out of place.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


What do you think about the little stone where to place (up or flat). If I remove it. I have even number of stones which shouldn't in an Iwagumi.


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## leemacnyc

Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of aquascaping! I would switch the 2 larger stones. I think the focus is too centered. If you had the largest stone on the far left to achieve the golden ratio, you'd focus on that first and the "wave" or angle of the stone would suggest movement or flow across to the right, creating a circular movement. It's all a matter of personal opinion, and fiddling around w/ our tanks is what makes this hobby so much fun!


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## Nigel95

Rescaped it lol what a pain. Had to remove some plants and decided to just split them more now. Will the plants need to get used again or is it fine? Planting the small monte carlo was really a pain, I hope they wont float when flooding. Pics on front page.


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## Nigel95

leemacnyc said:


> Welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of aquascaping! I would switch the 2 larger stones. I think the focus is too centered. If you had the largest stone on the far left to achieve the golden ratio, you'd focus on that first and the "wave" or angle of the stone would suggest movement or flow across to the right, creating a circular movement. It's all a matter of personal opinion, and fiddling around w/ our tanks is what makes this hobby so much fun!


Thanks for your reply. It was really a pain with the wet soil to rescape. So decided to let the main stone on the right.


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## Opare

*My first Aquascape 6.6 gallon - Iwagumi journal*

They probably will take a few days before they are back to normal growth speed wise, but they are probably used to the parameters that you have in the tank right now, so they shouldn't really need to 're-acclimate'.
Good job on the rescape BTW!

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## Nigel95

Firstly I thought I would get away w/o pressurized CO2, so I bought some liquid co2. Now I will soon have both so my question is
1. Should I use the liquid CO2 also after flooding? It helps against algae and I need to crank that CO2 till drop checker says yellow to avoid some melting of the plants anyway. 

2. I have an all-in-one fertilizer is this good like EI?

Also got a bottle VIMI accelerator which should help the plants with stress and stimulates new growth after trimming etc. 
3. How long should I use the VIMI accelerator at the start? Just until the bottle is empty or save some for after trimmings later.


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## Opare

1. Only use it if you have algae to treat, if not I wouldn't. I just use it as an algaecide, spot dosing with a syringe exactly where the algae is to burn it to hell. For now hold off on it, and only use it on certain types of algae, the harder ones to get rid of basically (BGA, BBA and staghorn).
2. What all-in-one fertiliser is it exactly? There are a few on the market and each one is different.
3. No idea what VIMI Accelerator is, could you get a photo?


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> 1. Only use it if you have algae to treat, if not I wouldn't. I just use it as an algaecide, spot dosing with a syringe exactly where the algae is to burn it to hell. For now hold off on it, and only use it on certain types of algae, the harder ones to get rid of basically (BGA, BBA and staghorn).
> 2. What all-in-one fertiliser is it exactly? There are a few on the market and each one is different.
> 3. No idea what VIMI Accelerator is, could you get a photo?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


VIMI all-in-one fertilizer 









Not sure why the images are rotated? They are fine on my pc. 

VIMI accelerator


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## Opare

*My first Aquascape 6.6 gallon - Iwagumi journal*

Just follow the instructions for the fertiliser, you don't have super needy plants so they should be fine even if the fertiliser is lean. I can't load the webpage of the company so I don't know what exactly is in it, but it should be fine. For Iwagumis because of the plants generally used (carpeting plants) EI levels of dosing are not really required.
The stimulator is probably some sort of phytohormone solution like Seachem Advance, just dose as the instructions say for the first month (maybe every other day IDK?) after flooding maybe, and then after every trim. I would just use it up till it's empty and then you can buy some more if you like it I guess.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Just follow the instructions for the fertiliser, you don't have super needy plants so they should be fine even if the fertiliser is lean. I can't load the webpage of the company so I don't know what exactly is in it, but it should be fine. For Iwagumis because of the plants generally used (carpeting plants) EI levels of dosing are not really required.
> The stimulator is probably some sort of phytohormone solution like Seachem Advance, just dose as the instructions say for the first month (maybe every other day IDK?) after flooding maybe, and then after every trim. I would just use it up till it's empty and then you can buy some more if you like it I guess.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks alot Mr Opare!


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## Sean W.

This is a great looking scape. You need more light tho.

Personally i am not a fan of the dry start method. My advice would be to flood it and get it cycled as quickly as possible. While its cycling, run the co2 as hard as you want, I would say 2bps, while its cycling with no fish. After its cycled and you get the first set of algae eaters ( Ottos, shrimp and a Netrite snail ) back down the Co2 to 1 bubble every 2 seconds. Try to get the tank cycled in less than a week with a 6 hour photo period.

As for a light I would suggest the Finnex fugeray planted + clip on light.


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## Nigel95

Sean W. said:


> This is a great looking scape. You need more light tho.
> 
> Personally i am not a fan of the dry start method. My advice would be to flood it and get it cycled as quickly as possible. While its cycling, run the co2 as hard as you want, I would say 2bps, while its cycling with no fish. After its cycled and you get the first set of algae eaters ( Ottos, shrimp and a Netrite snail ) back down the Co2 to 1 bubble every 2 seconds. Try to get the tank cycled in less than a week with a 6 hour photo period.
> 
> As for a light I would suggest the Finnex fugeray planted + clip on light.


Thanks for your compliment and feedback it means a lot to me!

I really can't wait to flood it but I have to wait till my CO2 system arrives. Going to put the CO2 up till the drop checker colours yellow. Personally was thinking about 3-5 bps but might be to high then? Would red cherry shrimp be enough as algae eaters like 10? The netrite snail come by 5 and that is way to much for my tank. Plan was to light for 6 hours first two weeks then 8 hours.I thought adding livestock was going to take like a month or so. 

About the lighting do you really think it's to low? The total lumens are 570 (desklamp) and 300 (build in LED) total 870. Tropica recommends about 500-1000 for med plants in my tank.


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## dukydaf

Nigel95, I have been following your journal. It seem to be coming along nicely. 

I would use the bottle of VIMI stimulator you have and don't buy another one. Many people have pretty good plants with good roots without it. It might have the right ingredients (like auxin etc.) but I generally have a brain allergy for bottles that have as their table of contents "eye of the salamander". What is trace elements ? what conc. would a drop add 20L ? Plant hormones - which ones, most of them are known to the scientific community and hardly a secret worth keeping. It is not as if you could synthesize "plant hormones" in your kitchen. Sodium salicylate is a plant hormone, it stops plant growth and induces controlled cell death. Does VIMI contain it among its "plant hormones"? Who knows. //end rant;

While cherry shrimp do graze around they are not the best algae eaters.2 amanos will easily out eat 10 cherries as far as algae is concerned. No reason why you cannot have a mix of the 2sp. 3 amanos should be enough and they are hardier than RCS ( they do tend to crawl or jump out so keep the aquarium covered). IF the amanos are okay you can add 10 RCS and stard a good size colony. A gang of Boraras brigittae would be a nice fit for this setup (also jump so keep a lid). 

I would keep the light at 6 for longer and then slowly increase until you see algae. Generally longer light means faster growth and not necessarily better growth. Otherwise the time line seems suitable.

All the best
duky


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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> Nigel95, I have been following your journal. It seem to be coming along nicely.
> 
> I would use the bottle of VIMI stimulator you have and don't buy another one. Many people have pretty good plants with good roots without it. It might have the right ingredients (like auxin etc.) but I generally have a brain allergy for bottles that have as their table of contents "eye of the salamander". What is trace elements ? what conc. would a drop add 20L ? Plant hormones - which ones, most of them are known to the scientific community and hardly a secret worth keeping. It is not as if you could synthesize "plant hormones" in your kitchen. Sodium salicylate is a plant hormone, it stops plant growth and induces controlled cell death. Does VIMI contain it among its "plant hormones"? Who knows. //end rant;
> 
> While cherry shrimp do graze around they are not the best algae eaters.2 amanos will easily out eat 10 cherries as far as algae is concerned. No reason why you cannot have a mix of the 2sp. 3 amanos should be enough and they are hardier than RCS ( they do tend to crawl or jump out so keep the aquarium covered). IF the amanos are okay you can add 10 RCS and stard a good size colony. A gang of Boraras brigittae would be a nice fit for this setup (also jump so keep a lid).
> 
> I would keep the light at 6 for longer and then slowly increase until you see algae. Generally longer light means faster growth and not necessarily better growth. Otherwise the time line seems suitable.
> 
> All the best
> duky


Thanks for your reply. I guess that will save me some money that I don't really need that stimulator! Might be a good idea to get both shrimps. As for the boraras britgittae; I really like them. Maybe even more than the microrasbora kubotai. but they grow up to 3,8cm, while the microrasbora kubotai doesn't get bigger than 2cm. Wouldn't be 3,8cm per fish way to big for my nano? Yeah a lid would be necessary although it cuts my light by 15% .


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## Nigel95

How long could I turn my Eheim filter off, when I need to clean Lily pipes. Want to do it in bleach with water and afterwards soak in water with prime.


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## dukydaf

3,8cm is a little bit of a large estimate. For me they were more like 2,5cm. I had some in a 30L Dennerle Cube and they were perfect of the dimensions. Definitely had enough place to swim. Microrasbora kubotai are neat and a little more subtle. 

30min-1h should be fine. Try some H2O2 instead of bleach. I don't know the exact reason but the biofilm seems easier to remove when using H202, perhaps some interaction with the polysaccharides in the biofilm. Not to mention it is cleaner afterwards.


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## Nigel95

Got the co2 system! Gonna put the black background on it tomorrow and probably flooding friday or saturday. The co2 checker and diffusor are so tiny lol. Anyways better than big for my small tank!


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## Nigel95

Added black background not sure if I like it more than no background. What do you guys think?

Need to clean the glass for sure.


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## JJBTEXAS

Last time I used a background I painted it on. Because it's glass, the paint can easily be removed with a razor blade and isn't going to peel away like a plastic one. If you want to try a background and are not a big fan of the black, try a frosted background.


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## BettaBettas

so/so


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## audimurf

I dont think i have seen a photo of a non lit frosted background. I sure like the frosted photos, just not sure what it looks like "un staged"

mine is black. I think you are looking at the contrast with the soil and background. once carpet comes along, I am sure you will have no issues.

Staring at the same contrast so i tossed in some albino cherries lol


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## Nigel95

The water is in. Running around 3 bps hard to count btw! No plants where floating 
Are all the bubbles on plants and thermometer normal?
The barometer has to be 1 - 1,5 of my co2 system and it stays on 7. Probably broken ffs! 
Thermometer will be removed once it is 24 degrees. 
Some plants are pearling. 
Not all plants are moving with the flow only a few
Filter is very quiet so won't be a problem with sleeping. 
Should I keep drop checker green or more yellow because of dsm?


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## dukydaf

The bubbles are normal when you do a water change / add water for the first time, false pearling they call it. 

Perhaps you opened the regulator to much... Close it down completely and see of the pressure drops. Then open it while watching the indicators 

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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> The bubbles are normal when you do a water change / add water for the first time, false pearling they call it.
> 
> Perhaps you opened the regulator to much... Close it down completely and see of the pressure drops. Then open it while watching the indicators
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


I tried it a few times with the regulator from zero. The only times it drops is when I am adding ridiculous amounts of CO2. Like 10bps. Pressure stays at 7 bar when everything is closed.


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## Nigel95

Co2 checker still green after no co2 all night? Bought a co2 check which doesn't have to be mixed with water.
I didn't experience any dusty water from the soil. Maybe purigen power?
The bubble counter lost already half of it's water. I refilled it hopefully it stays for a longer time now... Removing hoses are a pain


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## Sean W.

While the tank is cycling, crank the Co2. I would do 2 bps while you are cycling and dont have fish in the tank. Once the tank is cycled and you have fish, I would bump it down to 1 bubble every 2 seconds. When there is no fish in the tank, you cant have too much Co2, so crank it!

Put a check valve just before the bubble counter, that will keep the water from draining out of it. On that note I use 3 or 4 check valves in my Co2 line, Just for added safety, you dont want water to make its way to the solenoid.

Bump: While the tank is cycling, crank the Co2. I would do 2 bps while you are cycling and dont have fish in the tank. Once the tank is cycled and you have fish, I would bump it down to 1 bubble every 2 seconds. When there is no fish in the tank, you cant have too much Co2, so crank it!

Put a check valve just before the bubble counter, that will keep the water from draining out of it. On that note I use 3 or 4 check valves in my Co2 line, Just for added safety, you dont want water to make its way to the solenoid.


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## Nigel95

Sean W. said:


> While the tank is cycling, crank the Co2. I would do 2 bps while you are cycling and dont have fish in the tank. Once the tank is cycled and you have fish, I would bump it down to 1 bubble every 2 seconds. When there is no fish in the tank, you cant have too much Co2, so crank it!
> 
> Put a check valve just before the bubble counter, that will keep the water from draining out of it. On that note I use 3 or 4 check valves in my Co2 line, Just for added safety, you dont want water to make its way to the solenoid.
> 
> Bump: While the tank is cycling, crank the Co2. I would do 2 bps while you are cycling and dont have fish in the tank. Once the tank is cycled and you have fish, I would bump it down to 1 bubble every 2 seconds. When there is no fish in the tank, you cant have too much Co2, so crank it!
> 
> Put a check valve just before the bubble counter, that will keep the water from draining out of it. On that note I use 3 or 4 check valves in my Co2 line, Just for added safety, you dont want water to make its way to the solenoid.


I got a check valve but its not right before the bubble counter, see pic. Should I buy another one and put it right before it?


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## Sean W.

Nigel95 said:


> I got a check valve but its not right before the bubble counter, see pic. Should I buy another one and put it right before it?


Yes, buy a couple more and put them in the co2 line, but for sure have one just before the bubble counter


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## Opare

Your CO2 checker is probably still green because you are currently pumping a huge amount in. Even 2BPS should be fine for now when you want to be overdosing it. As Sean said when you get fish you'll want to tune that right down to a bubble per second-ish but I would see what your drop checker says.
Can you take a photo of your drop checker solution? Sometimes they say you don't need to add water, or that you can add tank water but sometimes it is just the pH indicator and not the 4dKH water as well. The 4dKH water is needed for it to work properly.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Your CO2 checker is probably still green because you are currently pumping a huge amount in. Even 2BPS should be fine for now when you want to be overdosing it. As Sean said when you get fish you'll want to tune that right down to a bubble per second-ish but I would see what your drop checker says.
> Can you take a photo of your drop checker solution? Sometimes they say you don't need to add water, or that you can add tank water but sometimes it is just the pH indicator and not the 4dKH water as well. The 4dKH water is needed for it to work properly.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


First why are my images rotating. They are straight on my desktop and if I rotate them nothing happens. Need to make pictures horizontal with phone? Sorry for your neck.

Btw I found a shop with amano shrimps but they are really small like 2-3cm will they do the job with algae?


----------



## Opare

*My first Aquascape 6.6 gallon - Iwagumi journal*

The pictures have all been fine for me, maybe a problem with your browser or something? I'm on my phone though.
I trust the brand of the solution, so that should work fine for you. One thing to note it says it shows optimum CO2 at 20ppm where a lot of us on here usually aim for like 30ppm. Nothing wrong with 20ppm though, that should be sufficient. BTW drop checkers take a while to change colour, so they have a lag time of a few hours so eventhough it says your tank still has a lot of CO2 still in it, it might not be the case.


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## Joshuabbott

Your CO2 checked solution looks good and sounds like it already has the DKH solution added.

I like the background better than non, maybe you would want to experiment with more colours? How about white?

Like others have said, crank the CO2 and get those plants settling in.

If you haven't a lot of surface agitation you're going to loose CO2 at a lower rate from the water, plus with the addition of your plants adding more CO2 at night, that's why your indicator is still green in the morning. I've just realised your checker solution says 20ppm CO2, which is the concentration that the solution turns green. Generally in planted tanks we want around 30ppm when we have fish in the tank. If you wanted you might want to think about buying another checker solution for 30ppm, or making your own out of 4DKH solution and a low range pH solution

You said you removed your heater from the tank at 24c, what do you mean by this?


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## Nigel95

Joshuabbott said:


> Your CO2 checked solution looks good and sounds like it already has the DKH solution added.
> 
> I like the background better than non, maybe you would want to experiment with more colours? How about white?
> 
> Like others have said, crank the CO2 and get those plants settling in.
> 
> If you haven't a lot of surface agitation you're going to loose CO2 at a lower rate from the water, plus with the addition of your plants adding more CO2 at night, that's why your indicator is still green in the morning.
> 
> You said you removed your heater from the tank at 24c, what do you mean by this?
> 
> 
> Sent from my LG-H955 using Tapatalk


Now with the water in it im fine for now with black. To change the colour with vinyl is not a funny job .

The heater is still in there I just removed the thermometer from the glass which displays the actual degrees. 

Changing the water is not a big job with this small tank


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## Joshuabbott

I felt the same way when I went black, it definitely looks different with water in 👍 

When you're hauling buckets a smaller tank is amazing for water changes, you can be finished in 5 minutes without breaking a sweat 😂

Ahh I misread that post about your thermometer 


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## Nigel95

The co2 is having way to much pressure on it, although the bubble counters seems fine. Is this any problem untill I fix it?

When should I trim it for the first time?


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## dukydaf

The small amanos are fine they will eat algae the same, obviously the larger they are the more they eat. 

I trim after 2 weeks normally but depends on the rate of growth. With carpet plants you can do a first trim as soon as they show some growth, this encourages more lateral development. 

I still don't like the looks of the pressure checker, this is on the output / electrovalve side I assume. It still looks to me that you open the regulator too much. 

Try this : 
1.close down everything. 
2. disconnect CO2 from aquarium
3. Fully open everything that would allow the Co2 to go from the regulator on ( electrovalve, other valves) 
4. The indicator should lower to 0
5. Close everything back down. 
6. Open the bottle
7. The pressure of the bottle should show something like 50 bar. The other indicator should show 0.
8. Give half a turn to the regulator. The pressure on the output side should now be above 0, but not 7
9. Continue to slowly open until. You reach 1-1.5 bars

The components after the regulator are typically made to work at 1-2 bars. Most have safety systems which will blow when exposed to too much pressure 

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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> The small amanos are fine they will eat algae the same, obviously the larger they are the more they eat.
> 
> I trim after 2 weeks normally but depends on the rate of growth. With carpet plants you can do a first trim as soon as they show some growth, this encourages more lateral development.
> 
> I still don't like the looks of the pressure checker, this is on the output / electrovalve side I assume. It still looks to me that you open the regulator too much.
> 
> Try this :
> 1.close down everything.
> 2. disconnect CO2 from aquarium
> 3. Fully open everything that would allow the Co2 to go from the regulator on ( electrovalve, other valves)
> 4. The indicator should lower to 0
> 5. Close everything back down.
> 6. Open the bottle
> 7. The pressure of the bottle should show something like 50 bar. The other indicator should show 0.
> 8. Give half a turn to the regulator. The pressure on the output side should now be above 0, but not 7
> 9. Continue to slowly open until. You reach 1-1.5 bars
> 
> The components after the regulator are typically made to work at 1-2 bars. Most have safety systems which will blow when exposed to too much pressure
> 
> Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk


I think the system is really broken.
I turned the small fine adjustment valve open till the meter went to zero. When I tried to close it with the other valves it went back to 7. The only way to keep the meter low is to open it very big resulting in 10-20 bps if not more. I tried it first with everything off the aquarium.... I closed everything last night and the meter didn't went under 5 in the morning. The meter that is on 7 is the Arbeitsdruck. The on 60 is the flaschendruk.

Short story the bigger open the small fine adjusment the less the pressure??

What should I do let it crank co2 with barometer 7 or no co2.....

Bump:


Opare said:


> The pictures have all been fine for me, maybe a problem with your browser or something? I'm on my phone though.
> I trust the brand of the solution, so that should work fine for you. One thing to note it says it shows optimum CO2 at 20ppm where a lot of us on here usually aim for like 30ppm. Nothing wrong with 20ppm though, that should be sufficient. BTW drop checkers take a while to change colour, so they have a lag time of a few hours so eventhough it says your tank still has a lot of CO2 still in it, it might not be the case.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



Yeah I bought the 20 ppm version because eleocharis acicularis mini and monte carlo aren't co2 demanding like glosso and hc.


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## Nigel95

Running 1 bps now due the high pressure on it. Guess its better than nothing. New pressure regulator next week.


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## Nigel95

Need to cut out something of the cover so it fit's with my lily pipes and co2 checker. 

1. With how many mm are amano's able to get out?
2. Should I trim the brown/dead parts of the monte carlo?
3. There is an orange/brown coat starting on a stone are this diatoms already? It's the main stone which is close to the light.


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## Opare

1. If they can fit through, they'll be able to crawl out. That being said they won't really crawl out unless there is something about your tank's parameters they don't like.
2. You should but let the plants grow in a bit, before you do that. Maybe wait till next week.
3. Yes probably. Diatoms are not a worry they tend to go away by themselves.


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## BettaBettas

my amanos never crawl out, and I have my tank water to the tippy top


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## Nigel95

So I was thinking about the rule tropica says for plants. My plants are in the category medium. Tropica says 20-40 lumens/litre. I was thinking that my tank isn't really 25 litre because it has 4-6cm soil. If I do the math I will only have like 18 litre water in it. My lamps are giving total 870 lumens. Which means I have 48 lumens/litre and this is for hard plants like HC. With the lid on it I will still have 41 lumens/litre. Is this going to give me huge algae probably or is the lighting on for 6 hours fine? I could dim the build in LED a bit or buy another desk lamp.


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## Sean W.

Nigel95 said:


> So I was thinking about the rule tropica says for plants. My plants are in the category medium. Tropica says 20-40 lumens/litre. I was thinking that my tank isn't really 25 litre because it has 4-6cm soil. If I do the math I will only have like 18 litre water in it. My lamps are giving total 870 lumens. Which means I have 48 lumens/litre and this is for hard plants like HC. With the lid on it I will still have 41 lumens/litre. Is this going to give me huge algae probably or is the lighting on for 6 hours fine? I could dim the build in LED a bit or buy another desk lamp.


Ignore what tropica says about light. It is a totally abstract way of measuring light. There is no standard method of measuring how much lumens a light produces. A single light could produce 10 lumens or it could produce 10,000 lumens, it all depends on how far away you are measuring the light from. Get this out of your head, erase what tropica says about lights. 

As far as the diatoms go, it is to be expected, but it can be minimized be doing what I have said. See my previous posts if you would like to keep the diatom algae to a minimum. 

It comes down to, cranking your Co2, limiting your photo period to less than 6 hours and cycling your tank as quickly as possible by seeding your filter with cycled filter media from another tank.


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## Nigel95

CO2 system is down. Tank is going to be 3 days w/o. Rip tank?


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## dukydaf

Depends, what happened and how fast will it be fixed ?

If it is within a week I would lower the light levels and duration. You could also start a DIY yeast CO2 setup to keep the CO2 up until the problem is fixed. 

All the best, 
duky


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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> Depends, what happened and how fast will it be fixed ?
> 
> If it is within a week I would lower the light levels and duration. You could also start a DIY yeast CO2 setup to keep the CO2 up until the problem is fixed.
> 
> All the best,
> duky


The pressure relief was making a hissing sound due the high pressure. Seller told me to shut it down immediately. New pressure regulator will be on wednesday probably.


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## Nigel95

Bubble counter still leaking. From full to this in 2 days. You can see the water in the tube but it doesn't go through the extra check valve. It isn't evaporation. What is wrong? Do I need to put the check valve even closer?

Aquasoil is moving by flow and makes it uneven at some points. Is this a problem for growth or will the plants find their ways. I don't mind a little bit uneven as in nature this is also.


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## Nigel95

I was searching about lighting and I really liked the kessil a160we tuna sun. Looks good and enough space left for maintenance. I would like to buy this one for a future 17-29 gallon tank. My question is would it be possible to use it on my 6.6 gallon with really low intensity? The 80 version isn't for sale in my country but the 160 one is.


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## Opare

IMO I find the Kessil's a bit too expensive you probably have cheaper options that will do the trick. Especially considering your tanks, and current tank, will be and are reasonably small. Look at some of the Chihiros LEDs they are pretty good bang for your buck fixtures, and they have some smaller ones. Also good ol' T5s still work really well. I'm not a super expert on lighting admittedly, you might wanna start a thread on the lighting subforum to get some more opinions there.
I think for smaller tanks like this people use a fixture called a Stingray? I'm not sure in all honesty.


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## Nigel95

Co2 running again legoo carpet.


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## dukydaf

Yey, is the new regulator behaving ? Looking all nice and good. 

For light, I fully recommend DayTime ( daytime | daytime ). Eco would work well for the small tank, cluster has nicely grouped lights and matrix... well ... . Basically you can customize it as you wish or can pay ... with the spectrum you like, the stands you want etc. Herr Foht also gives prima customer support. 

I don't think shipping to a neighbor would be a major problem


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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> Yey, is the new regulator behaving ? Looking all nice and good.
> 
> For light, I fully recommend DayTime ( daytime | daytime ). Eco would work well for the small tank, cluster has nicely grouped lights and matrix... well ... . Basically you can customize it as you wish or can pay ... with the spectrum you like, the stands you want etc. Herr Foht also gives prima customer support.
> 
> I don't think shipping to a neighbor would be a major problem


Yeah this regulator stays in the greenzone of working pressure. The other one was definitely broken. Only had some trouble yesterday with the tubes blowing of diffusor and bubble counter. Lowered working pressure to 1 instead of the adviced 1,5 and it seems to do the job. 

Funny you meantion daytime. I was looking into this and a dutch seller sells them. Was thinking about a daytime cluster 70 with 2500 lumens with led computer. Problem is I can't use it on my current tank. Kessil Will cost More but I can use it on this tank with low intensity. The daytime looks good but maintenance would stil be a pain with space? Kessil gives all the space you need. Maybe trying to get a tuna sun a80 and stick with 1 for this tank. Later on maybe buy another pair for bigger tanks. Do you run a daytime?


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## Nigel95

Seeing some growth should I just trim the rotten parts or trim the high monte carlo/dwarf hair grass?


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## dukydaf

On one of my tanks. Actually I am just getting new clusters today to play with  Aquariums and gadgets go together like a horse and carriage ... so they used to say. FYI they have a hanging/ pendant method for the clusters. But yes with the current plant selection I do not see the need to go very high quality on light. 

I would trim the Monte Carlo carefully and take the tops and replant them in between... faster carpeting this way. For the hair grass maybe wait another week, it will continue to spread nicely without a trim. In my experience the trim is usefull when you want to get it to increase its density.


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## Opare

Do trim away any rotten bits of plants. They won't regrow and will pollute your water.


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## Nigel95

What do you guys think

https://nl.aliexpress.com/store/pro...96ec615dd93d02ac-1491575189836-08344-VnYZvQVf

40 cm chihiros 
kelvin ? 
led 24 watt 
3850 lumens (way to much) but with remote controller.

@Opare @Sean W.


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## Opare

The Chihiros lights are quite a cool white in colour. I think they are not bad for the money, although thinking about it, you could just go with an Ikea or equivalent desk lamp and that would work just fine. Only problem is dialing in the light by adjusting the height.
Small tanks like these the Ikea desk lamps (look at the Tertial I think it's called) work just nicely.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> The Chihiros lights are quite a cool white in colour. I think they are not bad for the money, although thinking about it, you could just go with an Ikea or equivalent desk lamp and that would work just fine. Only problem is dialing in the light by adjusting the height.
> Small tanks like these the Ikea desk lamps (look at the Tertial I think it's called) work just nicely.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Tertial looks like a nice lamp  not dimmable any idea of what lumen to take with my plants + cover? Since people told me Tropica's "guideline" is not relevant. Max is 13 watt for this one.


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## JJBTEXAS

Nigel95 said:


> Tertial looks like a nice lamp  not dimmable any idea of what lumen to take with my plants + cover? Since people told me Tropica's "guideline" is not relevant.


With a tank that shallow, I think a 75W or 100W equivalent bulb would work. I'm using these on my tank but it hasn't been set up long enough for me to recommend quiet yet.

75W - https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Ene...rd_wg=lMT9P&psc=1&refRID=H71SV1288CJENBFF218A

100W - https://www.amazon.com/Equivalent-S...rd_wg=or7Z3&psc=1&refRID=4A2F67SYBJF1CG94AJ60

I think the 75W (actually 9W) would be the best bet but you could always get the 100 and raise it up high if you think it's too much light.

You could also go with a fluorescent bulb. Just make sure which ever lamp you use is rated for the wattage you're using.


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## Opare

*My first Aquascape 6.6 gallon - Iwagumi journal*

Yeah that's what I was saying, the main issue with desk lamps is that they can't be dimmed, so you have to play with height to find the sweet spot.
Lumens are not a great way to measure lighting for planted tanks. Most of us look at the PAR provided by lighting fixtures. There are some ranges on what amount is considered low, medium or high. Even then these are just guidelines and are relatively arbitrary, but still work well. For your tank I think something in the medium range would be good, which is around 30-50 (whatever the units are for PAR, can't remember for the life of me). Obviously, that information isn't super useful to you since you don't have a PAR meter, but it may become more useful in the future with other setups. Especially when you plan to use more commercially available light fixtures because other people usually have done measurements on their light intensity, so you can find that online.
All in all, I wouldn't be concerned with an exact value you should be aiming for, especially cus you have no way of measuring it. Just get to a point where the plants are growing well. It's not great advice admittedly, but hey if plant growth is good what's the point of changing. This may take some adjusting though, I would start with the light reasonably high to be conservative, then slowly bring it down as needed. Obviously you could just go for the Chihiros which may be less trouble, but even then you would still be relatively blind in what light level you should set it at. Getting PAR measurements for the Chihiros fixtures is also quite difficult.
MASSIVE DISCLAIMER: My lighting knowledge is pretty limited though, so take what I say with a relative grain of salt. I hate physics so I previously I tried to make my experience with lighting as untechincal as possible and all I really know is the basics to get me by. I'm trying to learn more (as I am with other parts of the hobby), but my understanding of the light aspect of the hobby is still very basic. A post in the lighting subforum may get you more useful answers.

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## JJBTEXAS

You could buy a seneye - Seneye Reef Monitor - Seneye - Controllers & Monitors - Controllers & Testing - Bulk Reef Supply

They're designed for reef tank but work equally well for planted tanks. They read PAR, Lux and light temperature as well as PH and Ammonia levels. It's not cheap ($200) but all that info is extremely valuable. Might be worth it in the long run. I'm heavily considering it.


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## Nigel95

Btw do you guys have spare lily pipes? Kinda sucks if one breaks and the filter is dieing with bacteria..

Is CRI of 80 acceptable can't really find 90+ bulbs


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## JJBTEXAS

Nigel95 said:


> Btw do you guys have spare lily pipes? Kinda sucks if one breaks and the filter is dieing with bacteria..
> 
> Is CRI of 80 acceptable can't really find 90+ bulbs


I have the stock inlet/outlet I can use if the lily pipes break.

CRI rating on most LEDs is in reference to the sun. AKA to what % does it best replicate the sun. The thing to keep in mind here is that plants use the blue end of the spectrum, and a little bit of the red as well. You could completely ignore the green spectrum, which would give you a bad CRI, and still grown plants very successfully.

PAR is light radiation that is used for photosynthesis. That's why Par is the one measurement most useful to growing plants in tanks. Unfortunately, Par is heavily dependant on distance from the light source.


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## Nigel95

JJBTEXAS said:


> I have the stock inlet/outlet I can use if the lily pipes break.
> 
> CRI rating on most LEDs is in reference to the sun. AKA to what % does it best replicate the sun. The thing to keep in mind here is that plants use the blue end of the spectrum, and a little bit of the red as well. You could completely ignore the green spectrum, which would give you a bad CRI, and still grown plants very successfully.
> 
> PAR is light radiation that is used for photosynthesis. That's why Par is the one measurement most useful to growing plants in tanks. Unfortunately, Par is heavily dependant on distance from the light source.


Just ordered this one hopefully it will go "well"

CRI: 80-89
Lumens: ~1050
Wattage: 18
6500k


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## Sean W.

Opare said:


> The Chihiros lights are quite a cool white in colour. I think they are not bad for the money, although thinking about it, you could just go with an Ikea or equivalent desk lamp and that would work just fine. Only problem is dialing in the light by adjusting the height.
> Small tanks like these the Ikea desk lamps (look at the Tertial I think it's called) work just nicely.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


These are my thoughts as well, I have yet to see one in person, but thats because of their rated temperature at 8,000k. Thats WAY too cool for me. Cool means blue. If that color temp doesnt bother you, they do have an inline dimmer, which really makes them a diverse light, allowing you to do low light all the way up to too much light, all with just one fixture. They are designed for the Asian markets, where 8,000k lights are preferred.


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## Nigel95

New desklamp got 2 lamps 6500k 900 and 1050 lumens. Just throwing them in and see what does better.. Picture shows the 900 lumens. If I put the lamp higher the lighting isn't really nice to watch the tank.

Some pics for anyone interested. 35 days update

Monte carlo grows for sure. DHG mini more tall / few runners nothing fast. Hopefully the DHG on the left will grow as it is in light shadow. 

Drop checker changes colour but always in the green zone..

Black build in led/lid removed kept the side panels as one was not removable. Only when moving tank don't wanna take any risks.

I have put the plastic lid on it and it surely looks awfull lol.. stupid fish/shrimps on their suicidal missions

Should I remove diatoms or let them there for the amano shrimp?


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## Nigel95

Not sure what to choose amano's and rcs or microrasbora kubotai..

Shrimps beter for algae and lower bioload less maintenance?
Fish more visible..


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## Opare

Probably can go with both IMO.


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## JJBTEXAS

What lamp is that? It looks like the Tertials I have on my tank, but the reflector is different.


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## BettaBettas

Gratz, you reached 100 posts


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## Nigel95

JJBTEXAS said:


> What lamp is that? It looks like the Tertials I have on my tank, but the reflector is different.


Brilliant hobby desklamp is the name. Keep in mind I live in The Netherlands. It's not from Ikea


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## Nigel95

Can I clean the glass or is this bad for the cycle running? (removing build up material)

The monte carlo is growing everyday isn't this going to take over my eleocharis acicularis mini as it grows slow?


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## Opare

Yeah do clean the glass and siphon your substrate. Remove as much rotting plant matter, algae and waste organics as you can.
The DHG will start to pick up after a while, but yes you will need to manage the spread of each with trimming. That is why I'm not a super fan of mixing carpets.


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## Nigel95

Playing with camera of my dad. Sure I can get more out of this camera but atleast the pictures are better than my Iphone.


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## IntotheWRX

Nigel95 said:


> Playing with camera of my dad. Sure I can get more out of this camera but atleast the pictures are better than my Iphone.


def see some growth. it's getting there.


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## Nigel95

Should I lower the CO2 to 1bps now or just the day before shrimps go in? Currently at ~2 bps
Drop checker stays dark green all the time (also before co2 on) and gets lime green before co2 switch off. The solution measures 20ppm


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## Opare

If it isn't turning yellow there is no reason to turn it down really. Green means you are in the clear. BPS is not a great way to measure CO2 output because different bubble counters give different measurements.
Add the shrimp and see how they do, if they are struggling lower the CO2.


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## Nigel95

Tested the water and it was fine to add livestock said the shop. Added 3 amano's with drip acclimatization until TDS matched. They do fine so far only one still little bit blue due stress. Hopefully they will survive, they are doing a good job on cleaning diatoms. Lots of rotten parts are going around in the tank; don't wanna scare the shrimp so probably will catch the rotten plants tomorrow. The amano's are so active very fun to watch. Can't wait to add some rcs in like 2 weeks.


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## Nigel95

Amano's are working like crazy and I keep finding new parts of plants in the water. Most are rotten but a few fresh, who were not planted deep I guess. 

This part of dwarf hair grass is not going to make it I guess . It's on the edge and is getting less light. What if some hair grass dies can I buy a new pot and plant it or will this cause ammonia spike which kills the shrimp?


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## Opare

Yeah sure you can just buy a new bunch it won't cause an ammonia spike why do you think this? If you are thinking about because you stir up the substrate when you plant, it shouldn't be too bad that it will be a problem.
Some of your DHG may just be transitioning from being grown emersed to now being submersed.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Yeah sure you can just buy a new bunch it won't cause an ammonia spike why do you think this? If you are thinking about because you stir up the substrate when you plant, it shouldn't be too bad that it will be a problem.
> Some of your DHG may just be transitioning from being grown emersed to now being submersed.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yeah was thinking that because of stirring in substrate. Guess I wait like a month and see how it goes. The dhg in that spot is in huge flow. Substrate is moving and roots become more visible + Amano's like to "play" there.


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## Nigel95

These Amano's keep floating tiny bushes/ runners of mini dhg. Tried to replant them pretty deep and few minutes I see a amano live pulling it straight out. It doesn't look rotten. Should I be worried or will it still carpet after time (with losing some patches)?


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## Opare

It will carpet after a while cus DHG does root quite deep, just gotta give it some time. Amanos are a bit annoying like that.


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## Nigel95

Currently lighting is on for 6 hours and 15 minutes. Just seeing a little bit of diatoms nothing big. Can I keep increasing light by 15 minutes every week?


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## Opare

Yeah should be okay


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## Nigel95

Rcs were sold out so bought 5 microrasbora kubotai. Next week time for 5 rcs. I don't mind that the fish will eat the baby shrimps. Don't wanna get this tank crowded. Not sure if my flow is too strong for the fish.


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## Nigel95

DHG isn't really doing anything.. Got a 1040 lumen lamp at home should I try it? currently running a 900 lumen lamp. No algae problems so far lighting 6 hour 30 mins a day.


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## Tnalp

Dam.. 900lm? That seems bright


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## Nigel95

Tnalp said:


> Dam.. 900lm? That seems bright


Trying a 1200 lumen now. This one is bright the 900 lumen not so. Dwarf hair grass isn't really doing anything so lets see with the 1200 lm. Also have a cover which cuts the light by 15%.


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## Nigel95

*Day 51*
1 pot of eleocharis acicularis mini was added. Had to order some things and I could choose for shipping cost or 1 pot extra. So the choice wasn't hard


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## Nigel95

Improved light to boost dhg more and turned the co2 a little bit up. Fish were gasping at surface so turned it a little down. They dont hang near the surface now anymore but the drop checker colors yellow probs due my 20ppm which isn't really a problem for fish? Should I keep the co2 at this level since fish are not gasping anymore and to avoid algae problems since increasing light? Or go back to lime green @Opare


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## Opare

If the fish and shrimp are fine you can keep it that high.


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## Nigel95

First real "trouble" after some big maintenance. Cleaned filter media with tank water, lily pipes, hoses, 30% water change with some monte carlo trimming. Water is cloudy I think a bacteria bloom.. first RCS died


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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> For light, I fully recommend DayTime ( daytime | daytime ). Eco would work well for the small tank, cluster has nicely grouped lights and matrix... well ... . Basically you can customize it as you wish or can pay ... with the spectrum you like, the stands you want etc. Herr Foht also gives prima customer support.


Was thinking about a tank for the future. Still a long time till I am going to start it but just want to make a plan already. I am considering a 60x50x36 cm WxDxH tank. Would the cluster 50 with 3 rows a.k.a. 3600 lumens get the spread for a 50 depth? Do you have any par data of your own tank?


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## Tnalp

*Iwagumi 6.6 gallon - First tank*



Nigel95 said:


> First real "trouble" after some big maintenance. Cleaned filter media with tank water, lily pipes, hoses, 30% water change with some monte carlo trimming. Water is cloudy I think a bacteria bloom.. first RCS died




What do you mean by clean filter media? Filter floss of the bio media? 

Also: never clean your filter and do a water change on the same day. When I do wc i usually wait a few days before I touch my filter. This allows for everything to revamp 


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## Nigel95

Tnalp said:


> What do you mean by clean filter media? Filter floss of the bio media?
> 
> Also: never clean your filter and do a water change on the same day. When I do wc i usually wait a few days before I touch my filter. This allows for everything to revamp
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I just pulled everything inside my filter through tank water. How am I able to clean my filter if I can't do a water change. Take tank water out clean filter and put the "dirty" water back?


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## Tnalp

*Iwagumi 6.6 gallon - First tank*

What I did on my old tank is do trimming, glass cleaning, and water change one day. Then a few days later I would get two cups worth of tank water into a small bowl and just rinse out my sponges. I don't really see the need of cleaning out bio media? That tank was a 5.5g. Never had any problems. I plan to do the same with my canister. 


There's plenty of videos out there that explain doing this. From what I remember there's too much change in a tank if a big maintenance in done in one day(tank and filter cleaning) 

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## Nigel95

Tnalp said:


> What I did on my old tank is do trimming, glass cleaning, and water change one day. Then a few days later I would get two cups worth of tank water into a small bowl and just rinse out my sponges. I don't really see the need of cleaning out bio media? That tank was a 5.5g. Never had any problems. I plan to do the same with my canister.
> 
> 
> There's plenty of videos out there that explain doing this. From what I remember there's too much change in a tank if a big maintenance in done in one day(tank and filter cleaning)
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Alright thanks a lot


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## Nigel95

Meh I want a hydor eth 200 but it's to big to place it vertical between my eheim filter and lily pipes 

EDIT: Just bought it and going to put it on the intake. Gotta clean it more often I know but no heater in the tank


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## Nigel95

A red cherry shrimp is berried  Hopefully the babys will survive with my fish.. let's see

Made a quick video to give a better impression of my tank. Still can't get my tank nice on pictures. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hbzkEwoupE&feature=youtu.be

Not sure what I am doing wrong? Monte carlo still didn't fill at day 56. Probably due my weak lighting at the start.


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## Stijn Grundeman

*Planted the tank!*

looks very nice!


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## dukydaf

Nigel95 said:


> Was thinking about a tank for the future. Still a long time till I am going to start it but just want to make a plan already. I am considering a 60x50x36 cm WxDxH tank. Would the cluster 50 with 3 rows a.k.a. 3600 lumens get the spread for a 50 depth? Do you have any par data of your own tank?


For 60*50*36cm I would go with 2 strips with about 5-6 clusters in total. This should give you high light values. 

I do not have PUR/PAR data for my fixture as the hacked-up meters lack any means of calibration. Without calibration, the values can at the very best only be compared when measured with the same meter (higher , lower values ). Take another more visual example, if a ruler would lack calibration ( the meter(m) and sub-units ), I could only say my aquarium is 2 sticks long. Fortunately, we both understand the same thing by 1cm because our rulers were calibrated to the standard. An actual calibrated PAR meter gets up there in price and even then the response curve for different wavelengths is never 100%.

If you want I have a luxmeter which might be able to give you an idea about actual light values.

Sorry to hear about the shrimp, sometimes problems appear only when shrimps are getting ready to molt... so it can take a while to see the effects of what you did 2-3 weeks ago ( or before you bought them). Don't worry about plant filling in... enjoy the empty space and the time away from trimming while you can...


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## Nigel95

dukydaf said:


> For 60*50*36cm I would go with 2 strips with about 5-6 clusters in total. This should give you high light values.
> 
> I do not have PUR/PAR data for my fixture as the hacked-up meters lack any means of calibration. Without calibration, the values can at the very best only be compared when measured with the same meter (higher , lower values ). Take another more visual example, if a ruler would lack calibration ( the meter(m) and sub-units ), I could only say my aquarium is 2 sticks long. Fortunately, we both understand the same thing by 1cm because our rulers were calibrated to the standard. An actual calibrated PAR meter gets up there in price and even then the response curve for different wavelengths is never 100%.
> 
> If you want I have a luxmeter which might be able to give you an idea about actual light values.
> 
> Sorry to hear about the shrimp, sometimes problems appear only when shrimps are getting ready to molt... so it can take a while to see the effects of what you did 2-3 weeks ago ( or before you bought them). Don't worry about plant filling in... enjoy the empty space and the time away from trimming while you can...


I can get a 80x40x40 tank for a pretty good price second hand. Probably gonna use a black box because it is much cheaper than daytime. Less looks for sure but don't have unlimited money to spend. Problem would be finding a start with the black box as it is very powerfull. I can buy a lux meter pretty cheap on aliexpress. Would that be a good meter to get a "start" point for the lighting?


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## dukydaf

Yep it sure is expensive, the good part is that they hold good value if you want to resale them. I find the 80 aspect ratio a lot better to work with... more so if you want stem plants in there. 

Given that you take into account the limitations of a lux meter when interpreting your results, I think it is a good starting point. Don't get me wrong, PAR meter is great if calibrated but I think you would be able to compare the results of a lux reading more easily (again taking into account the spectrum limitation). Accurately measuring light is difficult... this article hits some main point Demystifying Lumens, Lux and PAR ? LumiGrow, Inc.


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## Nigel95

*Day 64*


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## Sean W.

So far so good!


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## Nigel95

Some blue/green algae on hardscape. Turned up water flow. Maybe to less nitrate due purigen? Any tips?


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## Nigel95

Co2 bath/whirlpool. Chilling there for like 30 mins.


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## McCarthy

Nigel95 said:


> Co2 bath/whirlpool. Chilling there for like 30 mins.




I say he doesn't like CO2 and uses the diffusor as a toilet.


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## Opare

Does it smell? Blue green algae tends to grow as patches not really spots like that. I Think it might be green spot algae/green dust algae. What are you dosing right now? Anyway try and remove any dead plant matter and algae, and keep up on water changes and it should start to go away.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Does it smell? Blue green algae tends to grow as patches not really spots like that. I Think it might be green spot algae/green dust algae. What are you dosing right now? Anyway try and remove any dead plant matter and algae, and keep up on water changes and it should start to go away.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I didn't smell it just tried to brush it off with a toothbrush it's very hard to remove. Can't remove everything. Only growing on rocks not on plants.
Dosing VIMI all-in-one as recommended for my setup on the box. So far I can't really see dead plants/algae beside this on the rocks.


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## Opare

Probably not BGA then. BGA is really easy to remove and has a really noticeable smell (like a sewer). Most likely green spot algae, your phosphate levels may be low. Green spot is hard to remove so I wouln't keep going at it. May be look into how much phosphate that fertiliser adds with every dose, and consider getting a seperate phosphate fertiliser to supplement it if it's low.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> Probably not BGA then. BGA is really easy to remove and has a really noticeable smell (like a sewer). Most likely green spot algae, your phosphate levels may be low. Green spot is hard to remove so I wouln't keep going at it. May be look into how much phosphate that fertiliser adds with every dose, and consider getting a seperate phosphate fertiliser to supplement it if it's low.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Got a phosphate test so gonna try it. Planning to use tropica specialised fertiliser instead of VIMI.


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## Nigel95

Tested phosphate hard to read the colours. Around 0,1 - 0,25 ppm. Now since I only have carpet plants I should aim for 2-3 ppm? @Opare


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## IntotheWRX

looking very good man. the carpet is filling in nice. keep your eyes out as your tank continues to mature. keep it balanced and soon your carpet is going to grow to thick it will be like a heavy blanket covering the floor and your rocks will look like it's sinking into it.


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## Opare

1ppm is enough I think, follow PPS-Pro target dosing. Have a look at Rotalabutterfly.com, there you can calculate dosing etc. but it will show what your target ppm should be. Carpet plants aren't super nutrient consuming.
IntotheWRX is right watch them get thick, but make sure to stay on top of trimming. If it gets too thick and the bottom part dies, you'll have a big ol' mess.


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## Nigel95

Opare said:


> 1ppm is enough I think, follow PPS-Pro target dosing. Have a look at Rotalabutterfly.com, there you can calculate dosing etc. but it will show what your target ppm should be. Carpet plants aren't super nutrient consuming.
> IntotheWRX is right watch them get thick, but make sure to stay on top of trimming. If it gets too thick and the bottom part dies, you'll have a big ol' mess.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I keep trimming monte carlo every week to avoid floating and dieing off. Gonna try tropica specialised fertiliser and we will see what the phosphate will be. Thanks for advice.


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## Opare

No worries man, so far this tank has been going really well, wish my first tank was like this hahaha.


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## richie_brave

awesome!


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## FishNerdJoe

cool nano! i just set up my own on my youtube channel. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4yFUEcq0SGs3_BHxF9q5Ww
check it out!


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## architect

Really nice tank.


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## Nigel95

architect said:


> Really nice tank.


Thank you


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## Kevchan

Nice job! I've temporarily retired from making planted tanks for now, but I do recall having to deal with algae blooms. One method I used was blackouts for a few days.


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## irie

absolutely gorgeous!


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## Toadster

How's the flow with your eheim 150? I'm looking into filtration for a similar sized tank, and wondering if the 150 I have is too strong.


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## Nigel95

Toadster said:


> How's the flow with your eheim 150? I'm looking into filtration for a similar sized tank, and wondering if the 150 I have is too strong.


Flow was a little bit to strong for this 25l. For my new ada 45p (34l) it's great. I would get the eheim quick release valves. This is handy for maintenance and you can throttle the flow on *the outflow. Never do it on the inflow this can damage the filter. *


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## Milkman

Nigel95 said:


> *Day 64*


Hey Nigel, nice tank! I just bought this tank and realised the stock lights suck. 

Just to confirm, which light are you using now?

How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? [emoji14]


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## Nigel95

Milkman said:


> Hey Nigel, nice tank! I just bought this tank and realised the stock lights suck.
> 
> Just to confirm, which light are you using now?
> 
> How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood? [emoji14]




Hello Thanks! 

I no longer run this tank. Ada 45p now. At the time I was using a simple desk lamp mounted on the desk where the aquarium was standing on. A cfl 6500k bulb 1200 lumens will do the job Very Well. You could also buy a chihiros rgb 30 which will look better then a desklamp above. . 


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## Milkman

Nigel95 said:


> Hello Thanks!
> 
> I no longer run this tank. Ada 45p now. At the time I was using a simple desk lamp mounted on the desk where the aquarium was standing on. A cfl 6500k bulb 1200 lumens will do the job Very Well. You could also buy a chihiros rgb 30 which will look better then a desklamp above. .
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk


Thanks for the info! I had considered unscrewing the light flap and using a chiriros but the tank is 47cm to my knowledge so I don't think any of their models would fit?

How much wood could a woodchuck chuck if a woodchuck could chuck wood?


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