# pH swings, CO2, High-Tech Planted Tank - Advice please!



## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

lose the hob. surface agitation is off gassing the co2. fluctuating co2 can cause bba. and your lights are pretty high especially with the co2 fluctuation. 
your ph isnt a problem. 
nitrate is too low.


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## DeanClampet (Nov 15, 2009)

If I lose the surface agitation from the HOB by switching to a cannister filter will it reduce the pH swing with CO2 on the timer with the lights? Will I also need to oxygenate the water somehow to compensate for the less of surface agitation?


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## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

you need to add an airstone to the tank at night to off gas co2. that is gonna cause the ph to go higher. it is ok! there is nothing wrong with that. by getting a canister you wont be wasting the co2 that you're putting in your tank.

read question number 14 on this site http://www.theplantedtankfaq.com/CO2_FAQ.html


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## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

question 18 too


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## DeanClampet (Nov 15, 2009)

Okay, this makes sense.

Do you think a Fluval 304 (260 gph) would be sufficient filtration for a 55g, heavily planted with a fair population of livestock?


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

Surface agitation is a good thing. It oxygenates the water which is good for the fish. You don't want the water splashing as it exits the filters but you do want surface movement and good circulation throughout the tank. Any CO2 lost due to surface movement can be compensated for by increasing your bubble count. Running your CO2 at night isn't necessary, the plants don't use it at night. The pH swing caused by it isn't an issue and the fish will be fine with it.

The beard algae you speak of is usually caused by low and/or inconsistent CO2 levels as are most algae issues. Manual removal and Excel will help until you get your CO2 up to par. You might give thought to picking up a dropchecker to help gauge your CO2. You are a bit lean on nitrate and with the amount of light you have it will get lower as you increase your CO2 and the plants grow so a source of nitrate, potassium and phosphate is essential. Most people prefer to use dry ferts for those but seachem, pfertz and others also sell them but dry is much less expensive.


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

DeanClampet said:


> Okay, this makes sense.
> 
> Do you think a Fluval 304 (260 gph) would be sufficient filtration for a 55g, heavily planted with a fair population of livestock?


I used to use a 304 on a 55 gallon and looking back it was barely adequate. A 404 would have been better or using a 304 in conjunction with a powerhead would have been better. You could use a 304 along with one the HOBs you still have. As the tank grows in you'll find the flow in it drops considerably. I have a 75 now and use 404 and 304 and by no means is there too much water movement in the tank.


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## macclellan (Dec 22, 2006)

Increase co2 and/or decrease surface agitation for the algae. pH swings caused by co2 don't affect fish, so don't worry about that. 7.6 is pretty high for softwater. I'd advise against the fluval in favor of eheim or rena.


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## DeanClampet (Nov 15, 2009)

Where can I find dry fertz? I know these liquid products from the LFS store are a rip-off.


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## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

right here http://www.aquariumfertilizer.com/index.asp?Option1=cats&Edit=2&EditU=1&Regit=2


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

and here http://www.greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizer.html


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## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

or here http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/ferts.html


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## DeanClampet (Nov 15, 2009)

Will increasing my nitrates by simply increasing the biological load on the aquarium have the same effect as adding nitrate ferts?


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## timwag2001 (Jul 3, 2009)

i think you would need a considerable bioload. i would just start dosing ei. its probably easiest way to do it


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## Jeff5614 (Dec 29, 2005)

timwag2001 said:


> i think you would need a considerable bioload. i would just start dosing ei. its probably easiest way to do it


ditto


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