# PPS-Pro method and Dosing/Ferts questions



## green_valley (Sep 14, 2011)

I have a question regarding this method. The description says:

_*PPS-Pro* system is very easy to use and is the least expensive system in comparison to any other fertilizer. It is designed especially for aquascapers who want a system that is performing well, doesn’t need testing and tweaking and also works with all lights and substrates, no water changes and large water changes. Entirely 100% planted aquariums with reasonable fish load. _


I am curious about "_no water changes and large water changes". _What does it really mean? It actually works with and without water changes_?
_
Next question would be dosing. I was looking at the sticky, which I believe it's EI dosing. It mentions how you scoop the ferts, each nutrition in the tank. But can we actually just mix them, put them in a bottle, and just dose at once?

Last question would be about safety. How safe is it to keep those chemical around the house?

Thank you so much for the info.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

I can only answer a few of your questions...

With PPS Pro you're dosing a lower quantity of ferts daily. Because of this there is really no need for the frequency of water changes that EI requires to "reset" the water column. I would still suggest water testing every month or so to determine your tanks average uptake but aside from drastic high test values there's no reason to change the water.

With that said, there is no harm in doing large water changes if so you desire because your adding low dosages of fert daily as opposed to 1 - 2 times a week with EI.

I don't know much about the scoops vs. mixing but I think you can do so... however, from my understand of EI the point is that each fert is dosage on an estimative amount which is prone to variations based on your specific tanks needs.

Chemical safety... of course you should exercise some common sense and keep away from kids and animals. The dry form of the chemicals are very stable and if kept in zip locks or glass/ceramic containers wont pose problems.

Solutions, particularly the trace elements can be prone to molding. Refrigeration increases shelf time, adding excel to the trace mixture works better and eliminates all food/chemical mishaps in the fridge.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

PPS is no less costly than EI or any other DIY based fert routine and it is certainly not less expensive that a non CO2 method or sediment sources of ferts.

The DIY ferts are all less expensive than Commercial brands.


EI can also be done with or without water changes if you want to as well.
Example:

This isa non CO2 method, I use about 1/10 th EI and do few if any water changes, maybe once every 3-6 months? 










Here's a tank with CO2: once a month water change:










Here's one that's been getting 1x a week:









EI nor any method is rigid and the user can add more or less as desired.
I start high and then slowly reduce and watch the plants. Common sense.
This way you know the plants are not limited as you reduce and can see the 1st signs. If you start at a limiting level, you have to reference and the plants take longer to fully recover if the dosing is too low.

This same idea is true for every method, not just PPS.
In fact, sdediemtn based ferts systems are better and no dosign is required or even less to the water column for longer extended periods.

But realistically, we dose the fish and dosing as long as you somewhat consistent... is not critical. Light/CO2 and your own management are larger factors.


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## green_valley (Sep 14, 2011)

plantbrain said:


> EI nor any method is rigid and the user can add more or less as desired.
> I start high and then slowly reduce and watch the plants. Common sense.
> This way you know the plants are not limited as you reduce and can see the 1st signs. If you start at a limiting level, you have to reference and the plants take longer to fully recover if the dosing is too low.
> 
> ...



Thank you so much Tom, great tanks as always. 

I am trying to find what's the best dosing routine for my schedule. The obstacle is not the cost, but rather time. When I saw PPS has no water change, I was basically leaning towards it compared to EI. When I saw EI water change of people around here, I was really discourage. Some do weekly, bi-weekly, etc. PPS pro has no need to do water test nor WC, at least that's according to what I have read.

So when you said you can add less or more, are you saying about the 3x weekly dosing? and also water change? For example, instead of 3x/week dosing, it'll be 1x/week? Instead of 1x/week WC, it'll be 1x/month WC?

Thank you again.


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## green_valley (Sep 14, 2011)

firefiend said:


> I can only answer a few of your questions...
> 
> With PPS Pro you're dosing a lower quantity of ferts daily. Because of this there is really no need for the frequency of water changes that EI requires to "reset" the water column. I would still suggest water testing every month or so to determine your tanks average uptake but aside from drastic high test values there's no reason to change the water.
> 
> ...


Thank you so much for your information. I really appreciate it.


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## Kavak (Oct 12, 2014)

Hi i have some question
My tank is 6 gallon/20 litre with alternanthera/hemianthus/hidrocotyle and diy co2 with multi brightwell and iron seachem led light.shrimp tank
1.Ei method is better for me or pps pro or...
...?
2.if pps pro.calculator doesnt work on mobile.in forume calculate forr 1000 ml solution.if i want to make 20 ml of solution how much kno3 and... i should use?just devide to 50 all of them or is diffrent?
3.i dont have tester is need to use little mgso4??
4.mix excell with them or use it seprate?
5.is this solution bad for rcs breeding?
Tnx alot


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## Kavak (Oct 12, 2014)

????


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Best to start your own thread, not add on to one that is 3 years old. 

Anyway, to answer your question:
Which is best?

I started EI just the way Tom says to:
Dose high to get things going, and do 50% water changes weekly. 
Get a feel for how your tank is running and modify what you are doing. 

Do you have or want... 

... more fish (that is, more fish food)? Probably need less of most fertilizers, but do not skimp on K or Fe. (fish food does not have a lot of K, Ca or Fe)

... fewer water changes? Then reduce the over all program either by:
~ diluting the mix,
~ dosing less each time, or
~ dosing fewer days. 
It does not matter which method you choose. The math stays the same: Less stuff in = less stuff out.

... less dosing? Use substrate fertilizers, and a fairly low EI method (maybe only dose once a week). See how things respond and adjust the EI dosing. 

-------------------------------------------------------------

Here is how mine worked out:
1) High fish load, low light, few plants:
Dosed K and Fe, then added Excel. I was already doing 50% water changes because of the high fish load. No need to add N, P or traces. I was having to do water changes to keep these lower. 
2) Improved the lighting and separated the fish into more tanks, so each tank had fewer fish. Got more plants:
Began EI, but kept up the water testing. Found the NO3 was stabilizing in some tanks, staying too high in others, bottoming out in still others. 
Solution: The tanks with more sun were growing more plants, faster, and they were using all the nutrients. The dimmer tanks still did not need the full EI method. I was backing off on the water changes, too. 
3) Went all out for plants, moved the tanks to a greenhouse. 
Now I am dosing a lot closer to the EI recipe, adding Excel for carbon, but still not doing much in the way of water changes. Plants are growing so fast that I am worried more about under dosing than over dosing.
The current problem: The TDS is rising. Doing more top offs, not water changes. 
Gotta get back into doing water changes!


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