# Green thread algae



## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

Atm having some green thread algae in my fissidens moss carpet. It is not destroying my tank but if I can get rid of it that would save some maintenance. Higher co2 = shrimp dieing, lower co2 = shrimp a live but more green thread algae. Drop checker is lime green. Using a jbl inline atomizer. Daily tropica spec ferts (2 pumps a day) and low light around 30 par (par was around 40 before but raised the light to see if this has any effect on the algae). Should I go back to glass diffuser? Idk but something makes me think the atomizer isn't working very well (still drop checker is green) just a feeling. Tank is 128L.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Certainly not an algae expert (except that I grow a lot) but how is the circulation? Does the CO2 get pushed down and around well enough? I find adding a few of the cheap powerheads is a big help at times. Maybe worth a quick look/thought?


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

PlantedRich said:


> Certainly not an algae expert (except that I grow a lot) but how is the circulation? Does the CO2 get pushed down and around well enough? I find adding a few of the cheap powerheads is a big help at times. Maybe worth a quick look/thought?


10x turn over with my filter so I guess that would be enough as I don't have really blocking stems/hardscape? I do have hardscape but still enough space to let the flow go through.

The co2 is pretty much at the top because I use an atomizer with lily pipes. Do you think a diffuser is maybe better?

I do have an eheim stream pump which I could add to the scape. Where Should I add it exactly in tank. Beside lily pipe or opposite of the lily pipe outflow? 

Thanks for help.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

There are so many causes of algae that I find myself guessing and trying different things much of the time. So if there is a patch of algae and the pump is handy, I might go first for trying just placing the pump to force some of the water from the top, down and across that spot. 
As a way tp cut back the amount, I find an old toothbrush handy to twirl and wrap the long stuff on to gently pull much of it out. Careful not to get such a large grip that plants are pulled. Then once I do that, I like to squirt just a bit of hydrogen peroxide on the area. This has to be done with real care not to get too much in the water at one time if fish are in the tank. All my tank moves seem safer if I take my time so I go for just a little, watch the fish and then a day or so later look for algae turning red, remove what I can and move to another small section if I have waited tooo long and it has a good start. 
That's where I often come back around to trying to find some element of the tank which I can change to keep the stuff from just growing back. No sunshine getting into the tank at some point during the day? I find that is a really good start on algae!


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## JusticeBeaver (Oct 28, 2017)

How long are your lights on for? Algae can float around until it finds something to attach to so par values don't really matter much, duration is more important when controlling algae.


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Considering it seems like you have everything in check, it's almost always light-related. Is this your forest scape. If yes, and you only have pretty much moss all the co2 in the world is only going to make so much of a difference. 

How are you running the light cycle?


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

PlantedRich said:


> There are so many causes of algae that I find myself guessing and trying different things much of the time. So if there is a patch of algae and the pump is handy, I might go first for trying just placing the pump to force some of the water from the top, down and across that spot.
> As a way tp cut back the amount, I find an old toothbrush handy to twirl and wrap the long stuff on to gently pull much of it out. Careful not to get such a large grip that plants are pulled. Then once I do that, I like to squirt just a bit of hydrogen peroxide on the area. This has to be done with real care not to get too much in the water at one time if fish are in the tank. All my tank moves seem safer if I take my time so I go for just a little, watch the fish and then a day or so later look for algae turning red, remove what I can and move to another small section if I have waited tooo long and it has a good start.
> That's where I often come back around to trying to find some element of the tank which I can change to keep the stuff from just growing back. No sunshine getting into the tank at some point during the day? I find that is a really good start on algae!


Toothbrush works great been doing that already. About hydrogen peroxide is moss sensitive to that? Don't really wanna risk it. 

No sun on the tank. 



JusticeBeaver said:


> How long are your lights on for? Algae can float around until it finds something to attach to so par values don't really matter much, duration is more important when controlling algae.


6,5 hours only... could go back to 6...

Problem is me cleaning the algae a lot with filter on. Maybe pieces go around the tank and it all starts growing again everywhere. 




houseofcards said:


> Considering it seems like you have everything in check, it's almost always light-related. Is this your forest scape. If yes, and you only have pretty much moss all the co2 in the world is only going to make so much of a difference.
> 
> How are you running the light cycle?


Yup my forest scape. Problem is I can't turn the co2 higher it will result in shrimps dieing 

Lights are on for 6,5 hours. 

What about dosing some excel to the water column would this be safe for my moss and maybe help with the green thread algae?


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## JusticeBeaver (Oct 28, 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> 6,5 hours only... could go back to 6...
> 
> Problem is me cleaning the algae a lot with filter on. Maybe pieces go around the tank and it all starts growing again everywhere.


Do you have a picture of the algae and what are your nitrate levels? There are a couple types of algae that can be described as green thread algae. There's the slimy stuff and there's the course stuff. 6 hours of light doesn't seem problematic unless they're also getting a lot of sunlight as well. I was able to cure my hair algae problem with a combination of lowering lights, double dose excel (5 ml/10 gallons), 2 ml/gallon H2O2 (3%, spot dosed), and manual removal. I then dosed 1 ml/gallon of H2O2 for about 3 days without adding more excel. The course stuff I had a little bit in the tank but that is a bit harder to deal with and only manual removal seemed to work. Excel is definitely not good for moss but spot dosing H2O2 isn't as bad.


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Nigel95 said:


> Yup my forest scape. Problem is I can't turn the co2 higher it will result in shrimps dieing
> 
> Lights are on for 6,5 hours.
> 
> What about dosing some excel to the water column would this be safe for my moss and maybe help with the green thread algae?


As far as co2, no I think you misunderstood me. There isn't much plant mass so even if you didn't have the shrimp and raised the co2 I don't think it will do much. Upping co2 needs plant mass to be effective.

Ideally you want only like 2 hours peak and the rest just viewing light for a tank like yours with little plant mass, but you can't do that with your light right?


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

JusticeBeaver said:


> Do you have a picture of the algae and what are your nitrate levels? There are a couple types of algae that can be described as green thread algae. There's the slimy stuff and there's the course stuff. 6 hours of light doesn't seem problematic unless they're also getting a lot of sunlight as well. I was able to cure my hair algae problem with a combination of lowering lights, double dose excel (5 ml/10 gallons), 2 ml/gallon H2O2 (3%, spot dosed), and manual removal. I then dosed 1 ml/gallon of H2O2 for about 3 days without adding more excel. The course stuff I had a little bit in the tank but that is a bit harder to deal with and only manual removal seemed to work. Excel is definitely not good for moss but spot dosing H2O2 isn't as bad.


I will add pictures soon when lights are on. My nitrate test kit is old so not really reliable anymore.. I am not really a tester tbh.. No sunlight on the tank. Maybe I need to get some h202 and raise the light even higher. But I am scared how many par do fissidens moss and buces need at least to survive? 



houseofcards said:


> As far as co2, no I think you misunderstood me. There isn't much plant mass so even if you didn't have the shrimp and raised the co2 I don't think it will do much. Upping co2 needs plant mass to be effective.
> 
> Ideally you want only like 2 hours peak and the rest just viewing light for a tank like yours with little plant mass, but you can't do that with your light right?


Now I understand you 

I could modify the chihiros to run it with a tc 420. What would be ideal in terms of light how many hours, 2 hours at 100% and what % the rest of the hours?


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Nigel95 said:


> ...I could modify the chihiros to run it with a tc 420. What would be ideal in terms of light how many hours, 2 hours at 100% and what % the rest of the hours?


It' so hard to judge someone else's tank with so many variables at play, but if the your getting algae even with regular water changes then you have to go less light somehow. How many Lumens is that light your using. I think I'm running 2800 Lumens (Chirhiros A Series) on my Mini S (3.5G) and I run peak around 2 hours and the rest probably at level 2-3 (where 1 is dimmest and 7 is brighest) on the dimmer. I have the lights on now around 8 hours, started at 4 hours. But I also have alot of Blyxa soaking up nutrients. I do the normal 50% weekly WC. 

My lights are around 10" from top of substrate


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

houseofcards said:


> It' so hard to judge someone else's tank with so many variables at play, but if the your getting algae even with regular water changes then you have to go less light somehow. How many Lumens is that light your using. I think I'm running 2800 Lumens (Chirhiros A Series) on my Mini S (3.5G) and I run peak around 2 hours and the rest probably at level 2-3 (where 1 is dimmest and 7 is brighest) on the dimmer. I have the lights on now around 8 hours, started at 4 hours. But I also have alot of Blyxa soaking up nutrients. I do the normal 50% weekly WC.
> 
> My lights are around 10" from top of substrate




My light is now 50cm / 20” from substrate. Lighting unit is only 2500 lumens. It is Very strange at the start I had much more par the lighting unit was just above water line and never algae. As soon as the moss grown in more The green thread algae came. I put the lighting level on 6 now Instead of 7. Do you think it is worth the hassle to modify and use a tc420? I do even bigger water changes in this tank like 70% weekly. Maybe add more shrimp also? 


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Nigel95 said:


> My light is now 50cm / 20” from substrate. Lighting unit is only 2500 lumens. It is Very strange at the start I had much more par the lighting unit was just above water line and never algae. As soon as the moss grown in more The green thread algae came. I put the lighting level on 6 now Instead of 7. Do you think it is worth the hassle to modify and use a tc420? I do even bigger water changes in this tank like 70% weekly. Maybe add more shrimp also?
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk


Which light do you have? How could your light only be 2500 lumens and mine 2800 on my 31cm (12" tank). Also the algae could have been developing when you had the light lower, once it's there it doesn't need as much to stay alive.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

houseofcards said:


> Which light do you have? How could your light only be 2500 lumens and mine 2800 on my 31cm (12" tank). Also the algae could have been developing when you had the light lower, once it's there it doesn't need as much to stay alive.




Chihiros rgb 60. It is pushing the limits on a 80cm and for stems you need most likely 2 units. Thats Why I had it straight above waterline. Thought I needed all the power it gives. 


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Nigel95 said:


> Chihiros rgb 60. It is pushing the limits on a 80cm and for stems you need most likely 2 units. Thats Why I had it straight above waterline. Thought I needed all the power it gives.
> 
> 
> Verzonden vanaf mijn iPhone met Tapatalk


Where are you getting the 2500 LM number?


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

houseofcards said:


> Where are you getting the 2500 LM number?


https://www.aquasabi.de/aquascaping/beleuchtung/chihiros-led-system-serie-rgb

https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/chihiros-rgb-led-for-planted-aquarium.48072/

*2450


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Nigel95 said:


> https://www.aquasabi.de/aquascaping/beleuchtung/chihiros-led-system-serie-rgb
> 
> https://www.ukaps.org/forum/threads/chihiros-rgb-led-for-planted-aquarium.48072/
> 
> *2450


That's strange. Are the LEDs the same in the RGB (other than color) as they are in the A-Series? Why would it be sold as a light you raise up with those weaker LM numbers? Something doesn't make sense.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

houseofcards said:


> That's strange. Are the LEDs the same in the RGB (other than color) as they are in the A-Series? Why would it be sold as a light you raise up with those weaker LM numbers? Something doesn't make sense.


Not sure if they are the same. 

I agree it doesn't make sense... maybe they hope to sell multiple units per person. In the advertising/marketing you see 4 units on 1 tank...


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

JusticeBeaver said:


> Do you have a picture of the algae


Picture


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## JusticeBeaver (Oct 28, 2017)

Nigel95 said:


> Picture


Yikes, that looks like Cladophora although it doesn't look that branched from the picture. Combination of blackout with spot dosing H2O2 (I think excel just makes it grow faster) and manual removal might be your best bet. Anything you do will probably hurt your moss but you really don't want to that stuff to spread.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

JusticeBeaver said:


> Yikes, that looks like Cladophora although it doesn't look that branched from the picture. Combination of blackout with spot dosing H2O2 (I think excel just makes it grow faster) and manual removal might be your best bet. Anything you do will probably hurt your moss but you really don't want to that stuff to spread.




It already is everywhere not just that spot . 

I had cladophora before but it was much compacter and shorter than this one. 

I keep manual removing but comes back. 


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

I am thinking about to add a few amano shrimp maybe they can help me and save some maintenance (in terms of removing green thread algae). @houseofcards is probably right: I think all the co2 in the world would not even help me getting no green thread algae. My tank has low / slow growing plantmass which might be the problem. My first idea was to add 100 more rcs but probably waste they being ineffective in the war.

What can happen with the amano's? Will they eat some moss if they are hungry? Are they able to put fissidens moss of my lava rocks? As they are pretty strong..

Could the green thread algae ruin my scape long term? Plan is to run this tank at least 1 more year. I would also like to reuse my lava rocks with fissidens on it. This could be a bad start with introducing green thread algae in the new scape. Any tips for this?


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## king kong (Jul 2, 2012)

I am paying attention to this. I have this one to contend with as well. Grows on glass like a staghorn fern, ADA, plant leaves and plant bases.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

I am trying some amano's we will see if they can help with the war.

Another problem could be organic waste in my moss which can trigger algae, as I didn't use the turkey baster weekly to blow up detritus.


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## king kong (Jul 2, 2012)

My weapons of attack will be SAE's, black mollies, amano shrimp (Msjinkzd) and 7AM to 6 AM light periods. I do get 2 hours of natural sun light. I am looking forward to the battle.
I have no organic waste other than guppy poop.


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## Nigel95 (Mar 5, 2017)

king kong said:


> My weapons of attack will be SAE's, black mollies, amano shrimp


That should work!


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## king kong (Jul 2, 2012)

One down, mollies eat my hands so they will eat shrimp I suppose. :|


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