# Advantages of noon "burst"??



## wkndracer (Mar 14, 2009)

*start too long and bring it down until no algae issues but good growth*
That's what you do. I've got a four bulb fixture on mine and too much light. Went to a dual timer from Drs.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=11379 
There's been bad posts about the corallife power centers but my two work so there it is. 
One timer does it all. The 'noon burst' lets me cut back on light without a dark tank by dropping a pair out until the evening hours when I'm (maybe) going to be looking at the tank. Still too much light but algae (on the glass) is slowing down in growth just hate to cut back again but need another 30 minutes off both timers.


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## Homer_Simpson (May 10, 2007)

In my 40 gallon tank as per my signature. I monkeyed around with lighting for the longest time(different photoperiods, noon burst, split photo-period etc.,). After much experimentation and trial and error, I finally lowered the light fixture and tested split photo-period 6 hours on, 2 hours off, and 6 hours on. I found this worked best and I finally succeeded in growing carpet plants which I was unable to do with the other combinations. It just was not the lighting but a combination of a good c02 diffuser and lighting. The tank is 99.9% algae free, plants are growing faster than I can trim them, sell them, give them away or otherwise throw them out. I just gave away two icecream pail full of plants to locals back to back. I trimmed and within 5 days there was major overgrowth of plants, forcing me to yet give away another icecream pail full to another lucky local. This kind of growth has been going on since the change in c02 diffuser combined with the split photoperiod. I almost dread to see the growth in 5 days again and as I know what is in store for me. Oh well, time to choose another lucky local on my list of locals who contacted me for free aquarium plants.


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## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

talontsiawd said:


> ... I don't have bad algae issues or anything, just getting some green on the glass. ...


Here is something else.

Is it GSA? If so, how is your PO4?

It is said that GDA goes away after a few weeks. It goes through its life cycle and then it dies.


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## Voozle (Mar 22, 2009)

Homer_Simpson said:


> ...After much experimentation and trial and error, I finally lowered the light fixture and tested split photo-period 6 hours on, 2 hours off, and 6 hours on. I found this worked best and I finally succeeded in growing carpet plants which I was unable to do with the other combinations...


I've also been considering a noon burst, but perhaps I should reconsider. Homer, do you mind if I ask how much light you're running over the 40 gallon, and what dosing method you're using? Also, have you observed any signs of fish distress since incorporating the split photoperiod?


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

Left C said:


> Here is something else.
> 
> Is it GSA? If so, how is your PO4?
> 
> It is said that GDA goes away after a few weeks. It goes through its life cycle and then it dies.


It's GDA, i'm pretty positive atleast. 

I also noticed a very small amount of BBA. I get it every now and then. I think it's a combination of bad circulation a co2 issues. I'd get it in small amounts that would die off quickly when doing DIY co2. 

I just went pressurised a week and a half ago, new light a few days after. I also basically cut down all my plants to about 2-3 in as they just grew so much differently with the co2, then the light, they just looked funny. So my tank is established and probably has excess nuitriants because it only has about 1/8 of the plant mass right now. Of course, I didn't think about that at the time I cut everything down so hard.

I am trying a split photoperiod as of today. My reasoning is not for algae per say. I think i just need to shorten my photoperiod overall. I am hoping it is a good comprimise because I can see my tank when I want to and it's off when I don't. I'm going 5.5 on, 2.5 off, 5.5 on. Hopefully it works in general, again, it's not specifically for algae, but as I sort it out, this is pretty ideal for me as a viewer (my favorite part of having a tank of course).


I'm not too concerned about algae issues at the moment. I kind of just fly by the seat of my pants on that, I should be more proactive but I have been able to sort things out before. If it gets worse, I'll start test water parameters, I don't even have a kit right now. I have obviously done a few things that I know could be the culprit, all around the same time, I'll see where it goes for the next week or two.


Anyway, I'll see how it goes, but that is what I know and how I plan to deal with it for now algae wise and photoperiod wise.


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## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

There is a GDA thread in the Algae section. Have you seen it? It goes into more than just "life cycle" issues.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/algae/81538-truth-about-gda.html


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## Homer_Simpson (May 10, 2007)

Voozle said:


> I've also been considering a noon burst, but perhaps I should reconsider. Homer, do you mind if I ask how much light you're running over the 40 gallon, and what dosing method you're using? Also, have you observed any signs of fish distress since incorporating the split photoperiod?


Not at all. I am running AH Supply 2 55 watt compact fluorescent fixture over the tank. It is approximately 10 inches above the surface(no lid, tank is lidless - It is a 40g gallon, for full tank shots of what the tank looks like, check out the slideshow in my signature). The dosing method that I am using is EI but not full throttle. I am dosing 3/4 of the recommended for a 40 gallon. I am dosing magnesium(epsom salts about 1/4 teaspoon) and calcium sulphate(as my tap water has calcium levels considered submarginal for aquarium plants) about 1/8 teaspoon 3 times a week. I am dosing trace element and additional iron. 1 ml iron 3 times a week and trace element is full amount recommended as per Estimative Index, on alternative dose as the potassium and nitrates. I don't dose phosphates at all as my tap water as tested using a calibrated test kit measures extremely high(off the charts). The 50% weekly water change plus frequent topoffs due to evaporation using dechlorinated tap water add more than enough phosphates. 

I have not noticed any signs of fish distress since incorporating split photoperiod which I have been doing for over 3 months. The fish appear healthy and active and are eating. The only time I got concerned was when I cleaned the power head in my overflow filter after many months of neglect. After I did this my Siamese Algae Eater and Bristlenose Pleco went into hiding for the longest time(2 days) were no where to be seen. Both usually come out at the same time to seek the zucchini on the side of tank where I attach the feeding clip. I thought that both were dead for sure, but then in a couple of days they resurfaced and were acting like their old selves. 

Hope that helps


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## bibbels (Sep 29, 2008)

Homer_Simpson said:


> In my 40 gallon tank as per my signature. I monkeyed around with lighting for the longest time(different photoperiods, noon burst, split photo-period etc.,). After much experimentation and trial and error, I finally lowered the light fixture and tested split photo-period 6 hours on, 2 hours off, and 6 hours on. I found this worked best and I finally succeeded in growing carpet plants which I was unable to do with the other combinations.


That's an interesting photoperiod. I've read of others using a light siesta during the day. I think I might try that on one of my tanks.

Currently all my tanks are on a 9 hour photoperiod 10am-7pm with my 125 having a 'noon burst' of additional light. My problem is I work night shift and on my days off I also keep unusual hours. It seems most of the time when I'm awake the lights are off. Changing to a photoperiod like yours would give me more opportunities to see my tanks while lighted.


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## Voozle (Mar 22, 2009)

Homer, sorry for my delayed response, but thank you so much for the extra information. Sounds like a very promising method, I may look into something similar, although I suppose it will need to be altered to account for slightly greater WPGs. Your tank looks excellent, by the way.


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## rolloffhill (Jan 18, 2008)

Homer_Simpson said:


> In my 40 gallon tank as per my signature. I monkeyed around with lighting for the longest time(different photoperiods, noon burst, split photo-period etc.,). After much experimentation and trial and error, I finally lowered the light fixture and tested split photo-period 6 hours on, 2 hours off, and 6 hours on. I found this worked best and I finally succeeded in growing carpet plants which I was unable to do with the other combinations. It just was not the lighting but a combination of a good c02 diffuser and lighting. The tank is 99.9% algae free, plants are growing faster than I can trim them, sell them, give them away or otherwise throw them out. I just gave away two icecream pail full of plants to locals back to back. I trimmed and within 5 days there was major overgrowth of plants, forcing me to yet give away another icecream pail full to another lucky local. This kind of growth has been going on since the change in c02 diffuser combined with the split photoperiod. I almost dread to see the growth in 5 days again and as I know what is in store for me. Oh well, time to choose another lucky local on my list of locals who contacted me for free aquarium plants.


So with your 2 hour break in the day did you leave your co2 on?


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Why dont you guys just turn your lights on later in the day? I turn my lights on at 3pm and off a 1am. I am even thinking about starting at 4pm so I can cot back on GDA/GSA.


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## B16CRXT (Feb 7, 2009)

that split period is interesting! I get a lot of GDA and some GSA every now and then. I am running a coralife 2x65 watt PC fixture over a 20 gallon. On at about 9:30 with a burst from 11-2 and all off at about 9:30. Should I reduce my photo period or try this split period idea? Input is very appreciated! I only dose excel and flourish, and try to do it every day before the lights come on, but sometimes I forget or I sleep in. Oh I am also running pressurized co2.


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## bsmith (Jan 8, 2007)

Im not a fan of the split technique, it doesnt happen in nature.


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## Homer_Simpson (May 10, 2007)

rolloffhill said:


> So with your 2 hour break in the day did you leave your co2 on?


Yes, I do, no issues that I noticed with fish acting erratic or anything during those two hours.


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## Homer_Simpson (May 10, 2007)

This an interesting discussion about benefits of siesta or split photoperiod. 
http://www.barrreport.com/general-plant-topics/4730-split-photo-period-siesta-pros-cons.html

I sometimes find it interesting that in this hobby, sometimes people are discouraged from trying different things and drawing their own conclusions. I am not suggesting that a split photoperiod is a be all and end all in of itself to fixing any problems. I also changed my c02 diffusion method during the same period, replacing a ceramic diffuser with a reactor, so both could have gone hand in hand or the change in diffusion method may have been more responsible for what happened. Or it could be a combination of a balance of light, c02, nutrients, and the two algae eaters(Albino Bristlenose Pleco and Siamese Algae Eaters) that have helped to keep residual algae from getting out of control. All I know is that my plants are growing like weeds and my tank is 99.9% algae free, so I will continue to do what I am doing as it seems to work for me.


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

I decided to do a split photoperiod myself instead of a noon burst. The decision was simple for 2 reasons. First, I could stick with one timer for lights and co2. Second, I could keep a much shorter overall photoperiod (I mean how long my lights are on per day total, excluding the "siesta") while still being able to enjoy my tank at the times I want to. 

I still have minor algae issues. They have been reduced, I think it has more to do with the lights being off and more consistant co2 (took me awhile to dial in due to an unknown leak). I do get better growth than a longer photoperiod with both lights on longer.

I will make no assumptions but for me, it has worked realatively well. I still have some unresolved issues that I didn't expect a split photoperiod to solve but I did expect a shorter photoperiod to solve. I'm still messing with that right now. Then again, I swear I did everything on my 10 gallon to solve an algae bloom, gave up and it went away when I cleaned the filter, so it can be hard to guess.


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## B16CRXT (Feb 7, 2009)

I reduced my on time to about 9(noon to 9pm) hours with only a 2 hour burst period from 4 to 6. I just set this like this yesterday. It makes more sense for me to have the lights on later as well since I'm usually not home until 7, 8, or 9 anyway. We'll see how plant growth is now! I haven't seen any pearling in a couple days...kinda odd.


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## B16CRXT (Feb 7, 2009)

Well, this has ben going for about a week now. I'm seeing a reduction in GDA, but not an elimination. Significantly less GSA, and plant growth has improved. I might reduce the on length by another hour and see how it does from there.


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## Tracy (Apr 2, 2009)

I split my period too, only because I like to see the tank lit up in the morning when I get up and then after work in the eve. My fish don't seem to care.


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## woodyship (Oct 27, 2009)

Hello All, 



I used the CO2 drop checker and it is good now. its yellow-green color. 

I also, change my light, i am using now 2X150Watt Metal Hallide 6,500K

and T5 2X34Watt 10,000K

and T5 2X34Watt 6,500K

and T5 4X24Watt 6,500K

and my T5 Light are the best in market (aquamedic and AquaGlu)

and my plant are too leggy 
any help please


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## DrinkTheYeastMix (Oct 14, 2009)

Start a new thread in the lighting section - and give us details about the tank.


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