# FeEDDHA Made a Difference



## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

I've been putting a tiny amount of feEDDHA in all of my tanks while I use up the last of my Aqueon Plant Food fertilizer, and there is a marked difference in the plants. Growth, green, and RED dwarf lilies. I stir in a pinch a little bigger than the tip of a ball point pen. The water turns slightly tannin colored. 

I have been neglecting my lilies all winter, and most of the leaves had turned translucent, gotten very small, and melted off of the bulbs. So I put the good bulbs in my tanks with the FeEDDHA and in two weeks they have grown to the surface in a 29g, and I've been pinching the surface leaves back. Bulbs do love iron.

My dwarf lily bulbs have never done very well in hydroponic fertilizers, and feeding the bulbs separately from other plants was my only option. At this point, it appears the fully chelated iron makes a big difference. 

I'll be making my own aquarium fertilizer using this FeEDDHA for sure. I don't recommend it for those who don't like the 'tannin' look. It's not a bad look to me at all.


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## happi (Dec 18, 2009)

how many ppm of FeEDDHA did you add?


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

happi said:


> how many ppm of FeEDDHA did you add?


Don't know. Just a tiny pinch. It won't measure on my gram scale. Very small amount. I put more in my 55g. Less in my 10g. Even the tiniest amount will change your water color. I just added minuscule amounts until I liked the color of the tank. 

P.S. I can say that I use a 1/4 tsp to dip into the iron container and put a bit of powder just on the edge of the tsp. Not 'in' the teaspoon. 

P.S.S. The 'tannin' effect lasts a week easily. So it will probably have a cumulative effect unless that iron is used up. After a week and a 50% water change, I added another pinch or two until the water color looks nice. Without a water change, I believe the color would last many weeks. It's highly available iron waiting to be taken up by the plants, and I like that.


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## rancidcrab (Jun 22, 2012)

Where did you get it? Link?


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

What PH is your tank water?


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

rancidcrab said:


> Where did you get it? Link?


Southern States Supply Store, Virginia, 











hbosman said:


> What PH is your tank water?


Just measured, 
6.6 pH
4dKH
Temp 76F


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

At that ph you could get by with DTPA or even EDTA if, the color bothers you later.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

hbosman said:


> At that ph you could get by with DTPA or even EDTA if, the color bothers you later.


But I was using EDTA. It didn't produce this nice growth. I'm adding the fully chelated along with the EDTA in Aqueon or Leaf Zone ferts. I want to use up these EDTA ferts so I can mix up my own using Fully chelated iron. I like the look, and the results. I should try the DTPA mixes. But for now I'm going to stick with this stuff.

Also, EDTA is sufficient below 6.3. I've also seen it stated to be even lower than 6.3 pH. So I'm still not in the range for EDTA.


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## CowBoYReX (Nov 30, 2013)

Where were the Lily bulbs prior to this and when did you put them in your tank?


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

CowBoYReX said:


> Where were the Lily bulbs prior to this and when did you put them in your tank?


I've had them for at least three years, they have multiplied so I have them in four of seven tanks now. They have really taken off since I added the fully chelated iron.


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## thedood (May 30, 2015)

I'm no fert expert so this may be a stupid question. Could this be used as root tabs which would be really useful in high cec substrates? Or maybe a light sprinkling on the bottom of the tank when setting up, again highly useful with a high cec substrate? Bad idea? Wont work at all? Seems to me if this would work it might reduce the discoloring of the water.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

thedood said:


> I'm no fert expert so this may be a stupid question. Could this be used as root tabs which would be really useful in high cec substrates? Or maybe a light sprinkling on the bottom of the tank when setting up, again highly useful with a high cec substrate? Bad idea? Wont work at all? Seems to me if this would work it might reduce the discoloring of the water.


I can only tell you that if you get this powder anywhere near water, it will turn the water red. I doubt substrate could hold it out of the water column. It might look really interesting as it streams up and out like a red volcanic explosion. It behaves exactly like red food coloring in water.

This is from my first experiment with it in water. I put just under 1 gram in the water and got this:


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## thedood (May 30, 2015)

It looks like a shark attach happened in that water lol. Ok so what if this iron was used to lets say pre-charge sts or part of mineralizing a soil?


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

thedood said:


> It looks like a shark attach happened in that water lol. Ok so what if this iron was used to lets say pre-charge sts or part of mineralizing a soil?


I don't know, but I do know that the tiny amount I'm using, which causes a tannin effect, is making a difference in my lilies. My other plants look very good as well, but I had them in the original iron test tank in the picture, so they should be better off from it. But the lilies were dosed with just this tiny amount and changed almost overnite from small brownish leaves or no leaves at all, to nice red and green leaves. The bulbs with no leaves have sprouted and look very good. So I think it is the iron.

I'm picking up some calcium nitrate today to help with iron absorption. I'm trying to mix my own recipe with this stuff.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

*Got the Calcium Nitrate*

Ok, I'll never ever need any calcium nitrate again. 15 dollars for a 50lb bag. Ha! Ridiculous amount of stuff. I'd need to live a few lifetimes to use it all up in my aquariums.

They didn't have it in the economy size.


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## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

Where'd you get 50 lbs. of Calcium Nitrate for only $15?


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

WaterLife said:


> Where'd you get 50 lbs. of Calcium Nitrate for only $15?


Same place, Southern States. They have a warehouse full of fertilizers of all kinds.
http://www.yara.us/agriculture/products/yaraliva/2461-yaraliva-tropicote/


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

I need to add that the coir in my tanks can bind up calcium. Since I live in a soft water, low GH area, adding calcium should be a good call. I don't think adding calcium in hard water areas would be necessary in most cases, but maybe? I've noticed that many of the aquatic plant foods have little or no calcium. It probably needs to be considered for some of us. I'm just learning.

I believe potassium nitrate would be the right choice for those with harder water.

So as of today, I've added epsom salt(magnesium sulfate) and potash(Potassium Chloride) with the Ca(NO3)2. I added .5 teaspoon of each per 10g. In the 29 and 55g I added 1.5 - 2 teaspoons each. I added them all dry and just swished the water around. I played with the Ca(NO3)2 in a jar of water first, to see how quickly it dissolves. I believe the water got a little warm while it dissolved. Then I looked further and found it does have a thermal reaction. Interesting.


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## happi (Dec 18, 2009)

if you are adding 1 gram of EDDHA Fe (6%) in 10 gallon you will get 1.5 ppm Fe, this is quite high for plant needs. BTW after looking at those pictures am not sure if those picture can prove any final results as they are yellowish and plant still shows lack of colors. am not trying to discourage you in your testing but i suggest posting better pictures, if possible before and after pictures as well. 

also if you noticed slightly better green color in plants after doing EDDHA Fe, this might also be due to Nitrogen that is also in the same solution. again please don't take my comment personally and carry on with your testing and do post all the results and data. good luck


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

happi said:


> if you are adding 1 gram of EDDHA Fe (6%) in 10 gallon you will get 1.5 ppm Fe, this is quite high for plant needs. BTW after looking at those pictures am not sure if those picture can prove any final results as they are yellowish and plant still shows lack of colors. am not trying to discourage you in your testing but i suggest posting better pictures, if possible before and after pictures as well.
> 
> also if you noticed slightly better green color in plants after doing EDDHA Fe, this might also be due to Nitrogen that is also in the same solution. again please don't take my comment personally and carry on with your testing and do post all the results and data. good luck


? Not exactly sure what you are saying, but I have been using way less than 1 gram of iron, as stated in the OP. Leaf Zone and Aqueon Plant Food do not have nitrogen. So no nitrogen until I added the Calcium Nitrate today. 

The Lilies have only been subject to Aqueon or Leaf Zone product for the past year, until I started the fully chelated iron two weeks ago. They looked bad, but have really taken off in the past two weeks with the iron + Leaf Zone. 

All of the other plants are fertilized outside of my tanks using hydroponic ferts, every other week. I take them out of my aquarium, put a bunch in the fertilizer under lights, and replace them with a bunch that have been in the fertilizer for a week or so. I switch them out. So they get nitrogen every other week at least. But the bulbs never did well in the hydro ferts, so I quit putting them in and they had to live with leaf zone/Aqueon PF and fish ferts alone. They did not do well this winter! They either lost all leaves, or most were melted. So what you see in the picture is after two weeks with the iron and leaf zone only. 

Thanks, and I should probably start a Journal since this is turning into a 'build my own' fertilizer project. I'll keep ongoing photos there.


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## happi (Dec 18, 2009)

AWolf said:


> ? Not exactly sure what you are saying, but I have been using way less than 1 gram of iron, as stated in the OP. Leaf Zone and Aqueon Plant Food do not have nitrogen. So no nitrogen until I added the Calcium Nitrate today.
> 
> The Lilies have only been subject to Aqueon or Leaf Zone product for the past year, until I started the fully chelated iron two weeks ago. They looked bad, but have really taken off in the past two weeks with the iron + Leaf Zone.
> 
> ...


i thought i read somewhere that you added 1 gram in 10 gallon, sorry my mistake. but in post #6, if you are adding that stuff, it shows that it does add Nitrogen as well.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

happi said:


> i thought i read somewhere that you added 1 gram in 10 gallon, sorry my mistake. but in post #6, if you are adding that stuff, it shows that it does add Nitrogen as well.


Now I see what you mean. Yes, the fully chelated iron has nitrogen. Sorry, and yes you are correct, it could be the nitrogen in that iron mix that is feeding the growth more than the iron. But I am not convinced because the EDTA iron I've been using is proven to be insufficient at pH above 6.3. It is only available for a very short period of time, so most of it is not used. The fully chelated iron is available up to 8-9 pH. It stays in the water table for a very long time until taken up by the plants.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

The EDTA in hard water 12dgh + is said to be available for three or four day's by true plant guru's.
DTPA is said to be available for 5 to 7 day's in same hard water.
Believe these values only significant to low tech approach where EDTA or DTPA is dosed maybe once a week .
Most other dosing method's add the traces containing both EDTA or DTPA more frequently, where it might not matter as much for by the time EDTA was considered to be no longer available,it would be time to dose more .
Just my thought's.
I dose my tank's but once a week,and in addition to the EDTA found in CSM +B,I will also add DTPA (Iron Chelate) mid week for my hard water.
I have noted that my Echinodorus Indian Red,and crypt wendtii Red,appear to look more red at week's end than they used to with just the EDTA found in the CSM+B.
But perhaps this is an illusion and more to do with Nitrogen being used up by week's end?
Some claim limiting nitrogen, can make plant's appear more red.
As for overall growth of the otherwise green plant's in my tank's,I cannot say I have noticed much difference with the additional DTPA.
My plant's are mostly CO2 limited.


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

happi said:


> i thought i read somewhere that you added 1 gram in 10 gallon, sorry my mistake. but in post #6, if you are adding that stuff, it shows that it does add Nitrogen as well.


In the first experiment (picture of red volcano) I added just under 1 gram. So that's probably what you saw. That made the tank cherry red. It was the correct dosage according to hydroponics, but obviously not good for a fish tank because the light can't get to the plants underwater. I think the tiny amount I'm using now should be sufficient weekly, maybe even longer than a week. I believe at this rate, the one small bottle of iron will last at least a year. I think I paid 12 dollars for the bottle.


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## dzega (Apr 22, 2013)

from personal experience, dose of 0.1ppm Fe from FeEDDHA tints tank water very lightly, close to unnoticable. for this reason that is the amount im using


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## AWolf (Jun 13, 2014)

dzega said:


> from personal experience, dose of 0.1ppm Fe from FeEDDHA tints tank water very lightly, close to unnoticable. for this reason that is the amount im using


I've got to get a milligram scale.


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## dzega (Apr 22, 2013)

Powder density is close to 1, so you can just use ml instead of g an premix with water


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