# Barley Straw Pellets



## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

I have been experiencing all kinds of fun algae with my dirted 20gallon. My soil mix was clearly a little to rich, and is causing me all sorts of fuN. But I'm not giving up yet, 
Was doing 25%water change daily.
Started seeing algae after about a month, and four diff ones popped up at once! Brown diatom, cladophora, BBA and the dreaded BGA!!! I am keeping on top of things By bumping water changes to 50% daily. I also planted pothos and mondo grass in my HOB filter, and started floating some elodea. 
The algae has slowed down, but isn't ready to disappear yet.

I know keeping up the water changes will eventually beat the algae, but a lil help is always appreciated.

I could treat the tank with a number of differnt things... But most will either kill my snails. Or worse, wipe out the bacteria in my soil, leaving it to become an anaerobic cesspool. 

I know barley straw does wonders for a pond, making the water clean and clear. It releases a natural algecide as it rots, and is harmless to all other life. In fact I believe the humic acids it releases as it breaks down will be good for my plants. 

I've bought a a small bag of "Laguna barley straw pellets" for ponds. Dropped about three in the tank down into the giant Hairgrass. They expanded and spead out around the base of the grass. Hopefully in a week or so there will be some noticeable results.
It seems like snails will eat the pellets aswell which is ok. If the algae does start to disappear they are gunna need something to eat... Preferably not my plants:hihi:
I just dumped the pellets right in, but they could be suspended in a mesh bag aswell.

I will post changes in algae situation as I see them. Results won't be definitive


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

Progress-

24hrs, no noticeable changes in algae growth/ reduction.
Water is starting to get a "sweet" smell.
Did another 50% water change.

The test continues...


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## anastasisariel (Oct 4, 2009)

So your believe is that your soil was too rich which is what caused the algae? What kind of lighting period/light do you have? Why do a 25% water change everyday? This is a low tech tank? If low tech with soul, why not take a look at the "Wallstad" method?


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## shloken38 (Aug 17, 2012)

I'm curious as to how your experiment will work. I'll definitely be checking in!


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

anastasisariel said:


> So your believe is that your soil was too rich which is what caused the algae? What kind of lighting period/light do you have? Why do a 25% water change everyday? This is a low tech tank? If low tech with soul, why not take a look at the "Wallstad" method?


I am familiar with Walstad method. I have been doing daily water changes to help combat the large amount of Nutrient my soil is leaching as it becomes established.
As the soil is becoming established there is a lot of gasses created below the substrate. It is still releasing lots of bubbles still and little bits of dirt come up with the bubbles every time. I can poke to release them, or just let them rise themselves. Either way it makes some mess.

Light is 25w Fluval aqualife & plant LED. was going 9hrs on, have reduced to 8. Now I'm considering 4 and 4 with a three hour "siesta".i Read posts From handful of guys using this on 20gallon tall tank like mine, without co2. It's a couple inches above water as it's designed to sit on the rim.

I believe Rich soil has been a major factor in the algae, but not the only issue.
I have ALOT of crypts. I need to add some more fast growers, looking for good candidate now. Something that will fit my scape, and not be to melty.
Have some elodea floating now too which has helped a lot. Added one peice of frogbit 3 days ago, now there are2roud: should have lots in a little while. Oh and I'm not using co2, but that's why I'm floating the elodea so it can get atmospheric CO2... It has been pearling like and airstone lol

Too help export some nutrient I'm setting up a HOB riparium planter(large marina HOB breeder box) with a heap of mondo grass( just put mondo grass and pothos in my HOB filter too) I think it will look good. The giant hairgrass is starting to grow up out the water surface anyways, should look good together. Had some other plants but they just looked wildly ridiculous above the tank( polka dot plants, Rex begonia, some dracaenas) 

Also I should clarify... The algae isn't swamping the tank or plants , most of it is in "bare spots"( driftwood, large rock, some substrate)and all the plants are still growing nicely. It's just annoyingly ugly. I'm sure when I chill on the water changes it will come back with a vengeance though. Only plant in trouble is the dwarf hairgrass, hair algae is right in the midst of it., but it is doing a lot better today.

Cladophora- seems to have haulted. Has not spread at all. "Thiara cancellata" have eaten it away from the dwarf hairgrass. Usually returns within a couple days after they do this. I will keep watch if it starts to come back this time.

BBA- has gone MIAroud:

Brown Diatom- snails continue to devour it so I'm not sure. But the patch on my large rock doesn't look like it's been eaten lately, but it has also quit spreading, will continue to monitor.

BGA/cyano - no change( didn't spread, didn't recede)

As stated before, results are not definitive. Other actions are being taken. But it is the most current change to the the tank. And seems to be prompting results, but still to soon to say

Most importantly I'm still having fun with this


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

*72 hrs*

Clado- no signs of new growth after the Hairy Trumpet Snails devoured it.

BBA- still gone 

Brown diatom- still can't really say, snails dispatch this very quickly.

BGA/cyano- has done nothing, going to manually remove and observe results. Watched a zebra nerite eat a path through it today too. 

This test may be over soon as I am adding more plants. I'm bored of watching snails. I want to get some balance in this tank and add fish already!!!

Some big crypt cilata, gunna try growing it out the top( back corner of tank).
Crypt albida
Hygrophila polysperma 'Rosanervis'
Stargrass 
Brazilian penny wort 

And three different var. of mondo grass for riparium planter soon too hopefully

I don't think algae will stand a chance once these plants establish themselves


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## anastasisariel (Oct 4, 2009)

Good luck!


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

*96 hrs*

No apparent new algae growth
Other than BGA, manually removed from driftwood and it comin back slowly. But only where it previously was.

Uncertain if barley straw is responsible for algae slowing down. 

I will revive this experiement this summer. I am starting several "Walstad" bowls and vases to harvest and quarantine micro fauna from ponds. I will let one become and algae filled mess and try the barley straw method out again.

This will allow for a much more controlled experimentroud:


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## mikepetro (Apr 16, 2015)

It is my understanding that Barley requires sunlight (uv?) to break it down in order to yield the algaedcidal (sp?) effects. It works in ponds in the presence of sunlight, but simply rotting in a tank doesnt accomplish the same thing.

I once floated bales of barley straw in wet/dry sump and it had no effect. I do use the pellets in my shrimp tank, but mainly as snacks for the shrimp.


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

mikepetro said:


> It is my understanding that Barley requires sunlight (uv?) to break it down in order to yield the algaedcidal (sp?) effects. It works in ponds in the presence of sunlight, but simply rotting in a tank doesnt accomplish the same thing.
> 
> I once floated bales of barley straw in wet/dry sump and it had no effect. I do use the pellets in my shrimp tank, but mainly as snacks for the shrimp.


From what I have read the sunlight is only to increase temps. Uv has no effect on decomposition of the barley. It does however warm the water up which causes faster decomposition, which triggers faster effects. 

Kept reading and found the "algaecide" created by decomposing barley will NOT kill existing algae. But it will prevent any new algae growth. Best used as a PREVENTIVE measure. Most info I find recommends adding barley straw to your pond early in the season, before the pond has even warmed up. Maybe if I had it in the tank from day one I could test this. I will test this with the "Walstad" bowls this summer.
Update-
5 days
Nothing has changed since yesterday. No new algae growth, nothing disappearing either. Only difference is more giant hairgrass emerging from water


New plants are ordered and should be able to pick them up Tuesday. 
Also Got three new differnt Bucephalndra sp :biggrin: brownie blue, brownie Metallica, and purple rain.(already have "green singtang"). Probably order more as my plant guy got about 12 differnt sp. of Buce's in!!!

Edit:
Found great info on barley straw here. http://www.ceh.ac.uk/sci_programmes/documents/barleystrawtocontrolalgae.pdf

Apparently it does require light. Not the straw itself, but needed as part of the process. When light is shined on to water containing humic substances( from decomposing straw),in the presence of dissolved oxygen, hydrogen peroxide is eventually formed...
But I'm Unaware of the intensity of light this process requires. Doubt my Fluval Aqualife&plant LED is enough.
Still leaving the barley straw till I get new plants.


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

Approaching the 7 day mark. 
Cladophara has stalled out, no apparent new growth
BBA has not returned 
Brown diatoms still grow on most hard surfaces, but the snails are very efficient at dispatching them.
BGA/ cyano is continuing to spread very slowly, hopefully the addition of plants in a day or two can choke it out. Manually removing as much as I can again. 

I have two zebra nerite, they have both eaten som BGA, but rarely. Thiara cancellata has taken a bite or two at most... Nothing will eat this scum!! Lol 

If it persists after adding more plants I will have a full water analysis done and determine appropriate nitrogen dosing, I have read keeping higher nitrogen levels has been effective in killing BGA.


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## Wilderman204 (Mar 5, 2015)

Well I added more plants to the tank so this test is pretty much over. I will try this again with a couple "walstad" bowls this summer. That way I can do a side by side comparison and actually get some observable results.


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