# Which canister filter for a 300 gallon?



## inkslinger (Dec 28, 2003)

Info with large tanks setup's :
http://www.barrreport.com/barrreport.php
IMO: I would use 1 inch line system and intake and a Nu-Clear 533 and 547 filters you could also use there expansion if you have to and use a High Pressure Pump like Blue Line 70 HD, and have 3 returns.

http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Inland_Seas_500_Series_Nu_Clear_Modular_Canister_Filters_s/224.htm 
http://www.modularhose.com/ 
http://www.championlighting.com/home.php?cat=485
http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/product_p/ris02312.htm

But you can ask Tom Barr on his web site for more info he just started on a 3000g tank setup I think and he has his own 180g tank's.
http://www.barrreport.com/general-pl...highlight=180G


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## X men (Apr 14, 2007)

because you start from a reef ready aquarium, you have some advantages like a real overflow system, and a sump. I would not change a sump for a canister filter. Sumps have obvious advantages : extremely easy, failsafe system, evaporation in the aquarium is no problem (level in the sump will go down), easy to maintain, etc. 
I have a wet/dry filter sump, with between baffles three different filter materials. Works great, also the heater is in the sump, as is the co2 hardware just before the return to the aquarium. 

On the forum i found this thread, that gives you a good example of a sump based system. Not wet/dry though. http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/75002-diy-sump-auto-top-off-auto.html


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## FSM (Jan 13, 2009)

What's wrong with the sump?


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## gerryd (Aug 24, 2004)

Hi,

Well let me ask one or two questions first...

Did the setup perform well for the previous setup? Did it keep the water clear and clean, was the bio-filter adequate, was it easy to maintain, and did it have sufficient flow and current?

If so, then you probably are okay as is. You have a wet/dry sump which has many advantages, PLUS the red sea canisters for extra mechanical filtration.

I ran my 180 for years with a sump wet/dry.....planted and c02.

I WOULD add another ocean clear mech filter due to the size of your tank and the fish you plan to keep....

You will need more c02 with a sump and overflows, but seal the sump as best you can, and raise the level in the overflows to < 2" and that will help a lot.

How are you going to diffuse the c02 to the tank? That also will play a factor.

Your pump/plumbing can do many things if planned well.

Can you plumb a drain for water changes? How about refilling? If you dose ferts per EI method, 50% water changes weekly are standard. You want to make this as easy as possible so you don't put it off.

I use a mag drive 500 gph with flex hose and drop it in the tank to drain. Then flex hose from the sink back to the tank and done 90 gallons each way in about 30-40 minutes. gives me time to clean and other stuff. No buckets or heavy lifting for me!!!!

Hope this helps.

If you want a nice idea on a REDO, let me know. Am happy to spend your time and money.


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## WayneL333 (May 4, 2009)

Thanks for the input. Well, I have my system up and running now. I took the bio-balls out of my sump so it is no longer a wet/dry. 

I'm using the aquariumplants.com CO2 reactor which is rated up to 500 gallons. It's only been a few days, but I'm still having trouble dialing enough CO2 into my system. I think the problem is that the drop from the overflow is pretty long, about 6-7 feet. So I am getting a lot of bubble agitation in the sump. I'm going to let it run through the weekend to see if I can get the CO2 levels increased in my tank. If not, I may get rid of the sump all together. Luckily, I also have 2 - 1" holes drilled near the bottom back of the tank when I was running a closed loop off of them.

Ideally I would like to keep the sump though because as you guys mentioned water changes and maintenance is a breeze with it.

Thanks again.

~ W


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