# ShrimpZoo's 30gal CRS/CBS/Golden Breeding Tank



## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

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Like the title says, I'm going to start a 30gal CRS breeding tank and I'm going to start designing it tomorrow.

I've got 2 bags of "NETLEA Crystal Shrimp Soil (9L)" that will be delivered to my house, so that means the fun official starts tomorrow.

I've already got a basic layout planned in my brain and here is what I'm thinking:










Blue Area: Will be where I'll have my "Breeding Tubes". They will be "Breeding Tubes" that will consist of Cholla Wood. I've ordered 5 sets from NeoShrimp and you can see them at - http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184932

I'll be attaching some Java Ferns on top of them as a roof lol :hihi:.

Red Area: This will be where I'll be placing my driftwood (re-using the one in my current tank). You can check out the piece using the link in my forum signature. I will be wrapping a ton of Java Moss around this piece of wood.

Pink Scribble: That will be where I'll have a feeding dish. The feeding dish is just a simple sushi soy dish holder. http://www.mysushiset.com/soy-sauce-dish-snow-white.html

Green Boxes (2): Will be where I place 2 separate filters. They will most likely be Seapora Sponge Filters - 

http://www.bigalspets.ca/fish/filters/breeder-sponge-filter-136.html

They'll be run by a Marina Air Pump that has a duo air output line:

http://www.hydroshop.ca/english/hagen-marina-200-2-outlets-air-pump.html

Random Yellow Markings: Marimo Balls























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That's all for the layout of the tank. What I want feedback on is the following (but feel free to comment on my set up) FEEL FREE TO SKIM THROUGH (I blab a LOT):

#1. Filtration - Is having 2 giant sponge filters crazy? or practical? Will there be an issue with flow/current for the CRS? I want to keep water clean but I don't want to create a problem doing so. Because as I've heard countless times, keeping it simple is best and I hope I'm not overdoing it.

#2. Substrate will lose its buffering capabilities after 12 months from what I've read @ http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/substrate.html

How do you guys efficiently+effectively change your substrate? This is something I'm going to have to do in the future so I'm curious to how it is done. Do you just scoop up all your shrimp and dump the substrate and put in a new one? and does that mean you have to re-cycle the tank?

#3. Since this is a breeding tank and I want to keep nitrates as low as possible, would having duckweed as a floater be a smart move? My only plants will be (excluding duckweed) are:

- Marimo Ball / Java Moss / Java Fern

#4. MTS, yes or no. The only reason why I would WANT them in there is because they mix around the substrate and will act as a clean up crew if food gets into the substrate where the shrimp cannot reach it. Is there ANY negatives other than disliking them (some people just hate em because they are ugly)? Besides, won't they help speed up the tank's cycling process?

p.s: planning on having the substrate about 3" in depth (should be fine I'm assuming)

#5. Water water water, is the main reason that CRS keepers use RO water because if they use tapwater for a WC it'll cause a shift in paramaters and shock the CRS to death? IF so, I will be safe using tap water to aqua-scape I'm assuming. I fail to see why I would fill 30 gallons with RO water if I'm not going to stock up with CRS anytime soon lol. So if it is just an issue with parameters then I should be safe  please confirm if my assumption is correct. I will probably get RO water from Loblaws or Home Depot or even install one in the basement sink while the tank is cycling.

#6. Here is a list of the food I currently have, are they good enough for CRS (diet-wise)? 

- TetraVeggie Algae Wafers Xtreme
Crude Protein (min.) 30.0%, Crude Fat (min.) 6.0%, Crude Fiber (min.) 5.0%, Moisture (max.) 9.0%, Phosphorus (min.) 0.8%, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (min.) 100 mg/kg. 

- Hikari Algae WAfers
Crude Protein Crude Fat Crude Fiber Moisture Crude Ash Phosphorus min. 33% min. 4.0% max. 3.0% max. 10% max. 17% min. 0.8%
- Indian Almond Leaves + Blanched Cucumber icon_surp N/A Analysis)

- Hikari Micro Pellets
Crude Protein Crude Fat Crude Fiber Moisture Crude Ash min. 42% min. 4% max. 3% max. 10% max. 12%
- Hikari Shrimp Cuisine
Crude Protein Crude Fat Crude Fiber Moisture Crude Ash Phosphorus min. 35% min. 9.0% max. 6.0% max. 10% max. 14% min.0.8%
- Fluval Shrimp Granules

Crude Protein 37% min
Crude Fat 5% min
Crude Fiber 4% max
Moisture 8% max
Ash 10% max
Calcium 1.8% min
Phosphorus 1% min
Iodine 0.0065% min
Vitamin A 10,000 IU/lb min
Ascorbic Acid
(Vitamin C) 350 mg/lb min
Vitamin E 50 IU/lb min

My plan is feeding them once every other day.

#7. I'm planning on starting off with 10-15 CRS. Is that a good number to start a breeding tank or would you recommend more?

I suppose that's most of what I wanted to say lol... believe it or not this isn't all that I have on my mind atm. I guess having a new tank and getting my substrate tomorrow is making me too excited.

Anyways, thanks for reading and any feedback is appreciated as always.


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## Constantine (Mar 10, 2012)

Not sure about the hikari food, both the micro pellets and shrimp cuisine contain copper sulfate which from my understanding is harmful to shrimp. On the topic of the sponge filters, I really don't think you'll over do it just due to the way the outputs work on them and the fact that they will give a great feeding ground for the shrimps. One thing that id suggest is a heater in case it gets very cold in your room at night or if you have temperature shifts. CRS do like cold water but they don't like temperature shifts and in my unlucky experience they can go into shock if the temp varies too much. Finally Id suggest giant duckweed or frogbit but if you cant get either then normal duckweed is fine. I find the shrimp love to swim upside down and hang onto it feeding on anything yummy and it does a great job of filtering the water. It also is great due to its ability to give the water some cover and seems to encourage the shrimp to come out more. If your really serious about breeding id suggest fresh organic veggies and a mineral stone for the shrimp. If this is your first time with CRS be prepared for deaths and trial and error. CRS are extremely fragile especially if your ordering them and in my experience are troublesome to get adapted to new environments. Hope I haven't discouraged you and good luck.


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## Shrimpaholic (Jul 7, 2012)

Hikari Shrimp Cuisine contains copper sulfate in very small amounts. Copper sulfate helps with blood circulation so is benificial. There is a difference between copper and copper sulfate so it should be fine. Hikari Shrimp Cuisine is the staple I've been feeding my bees and haven't notice any ill effects. It doesn't make much sense that a major distributor of premium aquarium foods that has done extensive research on their products, would put something in their shrimp food that would harm or killyour shrimp. Correct me if I'm wrong. But please provide the evidence if doing so.


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

Regarding scaping: i would swap the cholla wood and sponge filter locations on the left side of the tank so that the airlines dont have to be run towards the front of the tank. try to keep the tall things in the rear of the tank as not to obstruct view.










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#1. Filtration - Having biological filtration is great but so is mechanical filtration which you have none as it stands. adding an HOB is simple, cheap, and effective. If you want to step up, consider a canister

#2. Substrate: swapping out substrate can be done in phases halves, thirds or quarters for less impact. take out say a 1/4 of the old substrate, lay down a piece of plastic bag to demarcate the old substrate, then dump the new in the tank. Wait a week and repeat with another 1/4 section of the tank until all the substrate is replaced.

If you have buffering substrate which may leech ammonia or nitrates, its best to start soaking it in a bucket weeks prior to adding to the tank. just add an airstone in the bucket to keep the water circulating and perform the steps outlined above.

#3. Since this is a [STRIKE]breeding [/STRIKE] *Shrimp *tank, you want to keep nitrates as low as possible. Duckweed is not recommended for most aquaria due to its invasive attributes. Large floaters (amazon frogbit & water lettuce) and fast growing plants are recommended. I have large duckweed which is also very pretty since its bottom leaves are red and are not so messy to deal with than its smaller cousin

Marimo Ball / Java Moss / Java Fern have more asthetic value over their nitrate absorption merits. Mosses have the added benefit of increased surface area which encourages biofilm buildup to supplement their diet. Floaters provide safe cover for shrimp and encourages them to venture to all levels of the tank rather than staying at the bottom.

#4. MTS and ramshorns are staples for many shrimpkeepers as they work on algae which shrimp have no appetite for. The strong dislike for them stems from owners overfeeding their tanks which encourage their populations to increase exponentially. snails are also great for helping the tank cycle as well as tell whether there is enough calcium available in the tank. Sort of like a canary in a mine shaft.

3" of substrate is fine. Should somewhat prolong the life of the substrate overall.

#5. [STRIKE]Water water water, is the main reason that CRS keepers use RO water because if they use tapwater for a WC it'll cause a shift in paramaters and shock the CRS to death?[/STRIKE] R/O is used because the local tap water does not provide the necessary water parameters to keep Caridinas or are too dirty for even human consumption. If your tap contains heavy metals or other unhealthy things, you might want to consider using R/o from the start. Failing to do this, you will have a heck of a time dealing with random deaths over the course of the following months after you placed your CRS into the tank. just because you do a 100% water change prior to putting livestock in the tank doesnt mean you completely remove the toxins that were left when you used raw tap water to cycle your tank. Ulitmately its your choice, effort, time, money and your kharma. 

#6. Shrimp food : they are bottom feeders and would happily eat their dead tankmates. The also are invertebrates so a good balance of calcium enriched foods, vegetable matter and a sparce feeding of protein should be fine. use the Hikari shrimp cuisine sparingly, maybe once a week.

#7. Starting population. 10 is a good number. getting more from different sources would be even better due to the genetic diversity. getting 5 + 5+ 5 from three different sources would be even better! In breeding happens over time so stating off with shrimp that are strangers to each other would be better if that were an option.

If you havent already fallen inlove with these colorful little guys, you will. they are peaceful, fun to watch, and always hungry. Try to search and read more yourself here and on other sources online. it would only help you decide what works best for you. Starting with a large tank is already a step in the right direction. 

Consider getting some stargrass and other more exotic genus of mosses. I have a tank of only Java which has grown really beautifully while i have other tanks with 3 kinds all looking quite different from one another. 

Good luck and have fun!


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## pejerrey (Dec 5, 2011)

I don't have much input because I agree with most, I'm subscribing to follow your progress tho. Good luck!


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## randyl (Feb 1, 2012)

Definitely swap the sponge and cholla wood as suggested by acitydweller. Shrimps love cholla wood, this way you can observe them close to the front of the tank. 

Other random thoughts,
- At least add a HOB.
- You can definitely use GTA tap water to fill the tank initially. Use RO afterward if fine. Even with our PH7.8 tap, it should drops to 5.1 - 5.3 in a few hours, thanks to the substrate. PH will slowly go up to like 5.8 in 2 months.
- Wait for at least 6 weeks before adding shrimps, with just two sponge filter it will take a long long time to cycle. I didn't add shrimps to my first Netlea tank until 3 months later, but you don't need that long for shrimps to survive.
- 10 - 15 CRS aren't a lot in a 30G, I would go for like 20 to 30. But you can start with 10 - 15 and if they are stable and start breeding then you are fine. 
- Food-wise, you have a good selection. I'd suggest to also feed them blanched veggies of your choice. 
- You will want some baby food, they aren't just for babies, adults like it too.

PS: while java moss is popular, I'd add other types such as phoenix or peacock or Christmas. They look better than java moss especially when you don't have good lighting and proper ferts.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

here is the picture of the tank that I will be working on  I've been cleaning it down and scrubbing it hardcore since my friend dropped it off at my place for free  oh man was it dirty... even the rack was rusting. I'm happy that I made it decent looking.

From reading all of your posts (thanks again), I'll look into a HOB filter to get (I suppose having mechanical filtration couldn't hurt at all and would benefit the water quality). I'm going to have to make it CRS baby proof though  (I'm going to assume that covering it with a panty hose + covering the intake with a sponge is the way to go).

Does anyone have any HOB filter brand they would recommend?

and will I really require baby shrimp food? Isn't biofilm and the food I'll feed the adults be enough?

and although I do have water lettuce, I feel that the duckweed is favorable in my case because they require less care (practically none at all). The water lettuce in my current tank isn't thriving as much as I'd want it to, whereas duckweed will thrive regardless of practically anything.

and I'm not going to use any ferts in my tank. And although I would enjoy a variety of mosses, I feel like I should stick to what I know and have an abundance of lol. The Java moss thrives in my low lights and fertless tank.

What I'm going to do now is get me some black bristol board to cover the back of my tank and start throwing in the substrate as soon as it gets here and look out for any leaks 

oh and lastly, I've taken note of the re-arrangement suggestion and now have it planned as:










Either having the cholla wood breeding tubes as diagonal or horizontal with the sponge filter in the back 

I will be getting a master test kit in the future along with a thermometer and heater so until then I suppose


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## acitydweller (Dec 28, 2011)

I use several sized aquaclear HOB filters and find them to be flexible and reliable. for a 30 gallon, you can consider getting a AC50 rated for 200 gal/hr which would filter your entire tank 6 times each hour.

Ref Lnky: http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-50-...d=1343938891&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+filter

Generic fluval edge prefilter sponge - used to cover the intake of the Aquaclear filter.

Ref Lnky: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sp...d=1343938999&sr=1-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter

If you want to save some $, use some stockings or an old net. Ziptie it to the intake tube.
Even though people have had success raising shrimplets without special foods, i personally recommend feeding baby specific shrimp food to increase their survival rate, moreso in an immature tank.

Regarding your dwarf water lettuce, you might have insufficient light. Duckweed will also tend to shrink and die when there isnt enough light...

Last tip for the day, the API master kit does not come with the GH/KH test. you'll have to get that separately. Its one of the necessary test kits you'll need for keeping caridinas.

Nice tank scaping... 

Good luck.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Alrighty guys, I've put the substrate into the tank. I shall fill it up with water tomorrow and perhaps transfer my driftwood and java moss into it. I'm praying to a higher power that there are NO unexpected leaks.

Pics:










my lovely bags of netlea soil.










me making the black background of my aquarium.










how the substrate looks in the tank (without water).


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Subscribed for your progress! And +1 to what acitydweller said !

If you do decide to go with a HOB, keep one sponge filter on the opposite side. So if you have the HOB on the left of the tank, have the sponge filter on the right. Overfiltrating is not a problem


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## Constantine (Mar 10, 2012)

Shrimpaholic said:


> Hikari Shrimp Cuisine contains copper sulfate in very small amounts. Copper sulfate helps with blood circulation so is benificial. There is a difference between copper and copper sulfate so it should be fine. Hikari Shrimp Cuisine is the staple I've been feeding my bees and haven't notice any ill effects. It doesn't make much sense that a major distributor of premium aquarium foods that has done extensive research on their products, would put something in their shrimp food that would harm or killyour shrimp. Correct me if I'm wrong. But please provide the evidence if doing so.


I was not aware of this. I just read copper and I usually stay away from it with all of my inverts.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

diwu13 said:


> Subscribed for your progress! And +1 to what acitydweller said !
> 
> If you do decide to go with a HOB, keep one sponge filter on the opposite side. So if you have the HOB on the left of the tank, have the sponge filter on the right. Overfiltrating is not a problem


Does that mean I should switch to 1 sponge and 1 HOB instead of 2 sponge and 1 HOB ;o ?


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

shrimpzoo said:


> Does that mean I should switch to 1 sponge and 1 HOB instead of 2 sponge and 1 HOB ;o ?


If you want 2 sponges you can go for it ! Just remember you'll already have a lot of filtration if you buy a AC30/50. It's up to you! :bounce:


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

I'm probably going to head out to Big Al's on Sunday and get all my goody goodies. I've filled the aquarium 4/5th and no leaks have occurred (awesome).

But damn has it gone really foggy lol hopefully most of it will clear out by Sunday so I can put in my driftwood and start cycling the tank a bit (using snails and the bacteria that remains on the DW and moss).

But hey, if it doesn't I can always use the brown foggy water as a test for my filters lol. In the meantime, I think I'm going to work on designing my peat filter or see if I can get an RO unit in my basement sink.

p.s: I'm wondering how I'm going to put the HOB filter on the roof of my aquarium, since this'll be my first time using one. I can't seem to visualize it lol.










Am I suppose to remove the plastic part or remove it entirely to make way for the HOB filter?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Got my goody goodies from Big Al's.

Now the fun really begins.










I decided to stick to 1 HOB and 1 SPONGE filter, and I got 5 marimo balls. Time to filter the water and figure out my tap water + tank water parameters  [I will post them after filtration is done]

Then may the fun stuff begin!


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Yes, the HOB filter will go in that spot behind the light switch. You should be able to take that piece out and put the filter there.

The water will remain cloudy for a bit until you get the filtration in. I find it best to put a bunch of filter floss in the HOB filter for the first few days as it will collect all those cloudy particles.

Not sure if you have a heater around, but it does help cycling to get the temps up a bit but if not, not a biggie.

Do you have another tank, take the sponges/floss, whatever from another tank and squeeze it into the new tank to get the good bacteria in there. The Netlea soil should leech small amounts of ammonia for a while (not sure how long, I have a bag sitting here unused and the Netlea CRS is the only one I've never used so far of all the Netlea soils). Randyl should know, he's using it right now. I think it's a small amount of ammonia though.

The Netlea soil will lower the pH very low for you and a lower pH makes cycling take longer, so doing small tap water changes will help keep the pH up a bit and make it go faster.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Alright thanks for the tip  I've saw'd the plastic part to a perfect side for the HOB. I'll post pictures first thing tomorrow morning.

I've got the HOB and the sponge filter up and running. I'll be sure to squeeze the gunk in my other tank into my new tank.

and I realized about the heat thing benefiting growth of bacteria after I left Big Al's... shucks... my friend told me to get the heater and thermometer when I go to get livestock. But as you said, no biggie .

I still need to get my TDS meter. The guy at the counter couldn't seem to find it (he later said after like 30 mins of looking that it was out of stock lol). Anyways, I'll prob start testing the water pH and gH and kH and all that good stuff tomorrow.

p.s: should I squeeze EVERYTHING including shrimp/fish waste into the tank? (from the sponge in my old tank)


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## accordztech (Dec 6, 2004)

what kind of substrate is that?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

The substrate is: 

"NETLEA Crystal Shrimp Soil (9L)"










I got it from Aqua Inspiration:

http://www.aquainspiration.com/nproductlisttype.asp?PNAME=SS&PTYPE=Aqua Soil


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Update:










The HOB filter being constructed and me putting on the fluval prefilter sponge + pantyhose stocking (for double protective measure for baby shrimps) can't be TOO safe  ! Hope it doesn't lower the filtering capability. I'm keeping the stocking in place with an elastic.



















Result of me sawing the plastic part of my aquarium roof shorter to make room for the HOB filter.










How the tank is looking so far (Filter placement).

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Going to place in the driftwood tomorrow  and squeeze some good ole beneficial gunk into my aquarium. Maybe even do some plant placements to speed up cycling.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Here is the tank as it is now:










All I gotta do left in terms of decorating is wait for my cholla wood breeding tubes to arrive so I can put my java ferns on top of it. They'll probably be shipped out around next weekish. So in the meantime, my next post will be about water parameters (mainly tap and what my tank water is at so far)










this is me making a box for the duckweed to not get dunked into the depths of my aquarium










man was it annoying when it got stuck on the java moss and the marimo ball

anyways, till next post I guess XD

Feel free to comment on the current look of my tank and if I should change anything XD

I'm thinking I might transfer my DIY coconut cave into the tank under the area where the HOB filter is pouring water lol.


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## gordonrichards (Jun 20, 2009)

I suggest:

Pulling your duckweed out now while you don't have plants. 
Get frogbit if you can, it is easier to deal with/remove from a tank with plants in it.

Ditch the stocking. The sponge is enough protection, baby shrimp will not get sucked inside.

No matter what nice tank build!

-Gordon


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## Bananariot (Feb 28, 2012)

gordonrichards said:


> I suggest:
> 
> Pulling your duckweed out now while you don't have plants.
> Get frogbit if you can, it is easier to deal with/remove from a tank with plants in it.
> ...


+1 
Duckweed can be your friend in chemical spikes, but in a tank this large, its gonna get outta control real fast and you won't ever get it out.
Frogbit, salvinia, RRF can be possible replacements.

The sponge will definitely be enough so you don't have to wrap it in stocking. Adding the stocking will make clogging that much faster for sure. 

Nice setup!


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

I think the sponge + stocking will definitely cut down on filtration, especially when they start to clog. Plus, removing BOTH of those to clean will be a major PITA. Just stick with the sponge prefilter. If you have a chance I would definitely recommend ordering a stainless steel prefilter.

How are you keeping your duckweed strainer thing in place? Just wedged behind the filter?


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## cantsay39 (Jun 10, 2011)

lmao i tried to diy filter wrap with fish nets... gosh... >.< it clogs after a week~ i guess every week is cleaning time lol


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Okay I'll ditch the stocking. 

and I'm keeping the duckweed straw border in place by wedging it behind the filter yeah.

and I think I can manage with the duckweed. I'll be doing regular water changes every week anyways, so I don't think it'll bother me too much. Frogbit never really lasted for me in my tank, and water lettuce dissolves on the surface of the tank.

I'll remove the stocking first thing tomorrow, and I think I might consider the stainless steel pre-filter.

I'm looking at it on Ebay and reading about it on http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=139535 and http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=161202

I'm thinking although sponge offers biological filtration it can get clogged... however, stainless steel means that I won't need to worry about clogs as much because it's easier to spot and will rarely happen.

I'll probably order it once I see how much leftover money I have on my paypal after paying for the cholla wood breeding tube sets lol.


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

This is why I love Aqueon filter over Aquaclear when having floaters


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Photo update:




























Added some rocks in the aquarium to account for the empty space between the marimo balls lol and added my DIY coconut cave. And removed the stocking from the HOB filter.

going to test my tap water first thing tomorrow and the tank water. Will post results here.

p.s: I'm planning on having both CBS and CRS in this tank now instead of just CRS


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## MsNemoShrimp (Apr 25, 2011)

GeToChKn said:


> Yes, the HOB filter will go in that spot behind the light switch. You should be able to take that piece out and put the filter there.
> 
> The water will remain cloudy for a bit until you get the filtration in. I find it best to put a bunch of filter floss in the HOB filter for the first few days as it will collect all those cloudy particles.
> 
> ...


Just curious, if we are to travel, are we allowed to bring the NETLEA Crystal Shrimp Soil (9L) to the USA? My cousin is from Canada and travels to the US 1-2 times a year. If that works I would like to try some. They seems so good!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Just tested my tap water:

TAP WATER

pH: 7.6 - 8.0

Ammonia: 0 ppm

Nitrite: 0 ppm

Nitrate: 0 ppm

kH: 6 drops = 6°dKH = 107.4 ppm

gH: 9 drops = 9°dKH = 161.1 ppm

=============================

Is there any difference between dKH and KH?

and how is my tap water guys & gals? (for CRS and CBS)


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## pejerrey (Dec 5, 2011)

Did you test it right out of the tap or you let that sit over night? Kh and Ph drops sometimes.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

I let the tap water sit for 5 hours in a white container. Is that enough resting time?

I just came home from work and did the tests.

I'm probably going to mix my tap water with RO/distilled water for water changes. 10% tap water and 90% RO/distilled water in a laundry bucket + remineralize using fluval shrimp supplement (a few drops). Going to do small 10% water changes weekly (my WC plan).

p.s: There isn't much difference between RO/distilled water in terms of using it in a shrimp tank right? Is distilled an okay substitute for RO water? I'll probably check RONA or LOBLAWS in my area if they have RO water. If not I'll probably just have to settle for distilled as a substitute.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

So a mini update:

- changed my sponge prefilter for a stainless steel prefilter (man was it a tight fit)


















- my java moss turned yellow so ugh (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1995777#post1995777)










- and now I wait for my cholla wood and will get my RO water from walmart in my two 20L water jugs to do a WC

anticipating to get shrimp (leaning towards CBS) in the month of oct!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Got all the RO water I needed to do a 90% WC.

gH and kH are at 1 (success!). and the TDS was measured at 44.


























hopefully when I re-mineralize the tank water the gH will hit 4-6 and get a TDS of around 80-100 to match the "ideal parameters" of http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/


Also got my cholla wood today and letting it float around at the surface of my tank until it sinks


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Cool! What kinda containers are those? Never seen them before. Are they something only in Canada?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

http://www.armyandnavy.ca/assets/images/productLarge/5Gal-Water-Pak_large.jpg

I have no idea where they come from lol. I got them from my girlfriend to fill up on water  hopefully that picture helps you maybe


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## Blue Falcon (Nov 9, 2009)

your tank build looks very nice! I would personally use 100% remineralized RO water rather than a mix of tap and RO, but thats just me. I like to know that I can mix up the EXACT same parameter water each time I do a water change. Some times tap water varies.


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

May I know what size of the ss mesh prefilter?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

the ss mesh prefilter is 16mm around and measures approximately 9cm vertical and 3 cm horizontal.

and I think I will just go with 100% RO remineralized for WC. Don't want to mess up my 1 kH value lol.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Holy... those water pack's are $20 each @[email protected]!!!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Well thank goodness I got them lent to me for free for a year XD I'll probably get my own jugs later.

Anyways, here is an update... I am DONE with the designing of my tank and creating the parameters for my future CRS.

Front View:

















Side View:

















Hiding Area:

















Feeding Area:

















Parameters are:

pH: < 6.0 (test kit doesn't measure anything lower than 6.0 so I'm going to assume it is a pH of 5.5 to 6.0 because I have netlea soil and people generally say it brings it down to 5.5)

kH: 0-2
gH: 5

temperature: 21-23C (pretty much always at 22C = 71.6F)

ammonia & nitrites: 0

nitrates: good enough

TDS is between 115 - 118... what do you guys think a good TDS measure should be? because according to http://www.shrimpkeeping.com/

TDS should be around 80-100 ): I don't see how I could keep it this low if I dose Seachem Flourish and use API root tabs to provide micro and macro nutrients (and I'm going to assume these 2 products are shrimp safe) and dose mosura mineral plus/fluval shrimp supplement for gH.

Anyways, I wanted to ask that here to avoid making a AM I READY FOR CRS thread.

I think I'm ready  I'm just going to have to find a place to buy CRS or find someone on the forum that would be willing to ship to Canada or if there is someone nearby. Feel free to say otherwise or comment! finally happy that I'm done designing.

p.s: I will definitely take the Betta out when I get CRS lol. He is just in there to provide nutrients for my Java Moss and create some bacteria.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Is it me or do your moss balls look really dusty lol?

As for your TDS, seems fine to me. If you dose ferts it does go up from the N in the ferts. So I wouldn't' really worry about that. As long as your gh ~5 stays that way, it'll be fine.

And finally... make some moss walls. You're not really utilizing your tank height at all (granted.. a 20L isnt' that tall).


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

my moss balls got fried along with my java moss a little while back ): so it isn't just you ): but! they are making a come back so they won't look that way for too long (hopefully).

and I shall looking into making a moss wall ;o! my friend does have a bunch of java moss he wanted to throw at me in the past... If I get a bunch of his moss then I'll start on working on it  otherwise I'll probably start looking for a way to get my hands on CRS+CBS


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Got myself a breeder box today  Marina Breeder Box (Large)

http://uk.hagen.com/Aquatic/Misc.-Accessories/Breeders--Salt--Silicone/10943

What I have planned for it:

Will probably fill it with my black sand substrate I had in my old 10 gallon tank (just so I can easily clean and see the babies) 

Will put in the pre-filter fluval sponge to be used as both a hiding spot and something to graze on (yay for dual purpose recycled material)!

and I will probably put some pieces of biomax filter insert pieces around there to provide bacterial growth and more grazing along with some java moss and maybe a marimo ball in there.

any comments suggestions or feedback is appreciated as always!

p.s: I am moving all my duckweed into the breeder box so I can remove my ugly straw border.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Okay my mission for making a CRS breeding tank is complete!

I got 10 CRS (S & A grade) and I had drip acclimated them for 6 hours. Man I was so scared when they were so pale (to the point they looked like ugly wild cherries) at the end of the 6 hours but when I put them into my tank... INSTANT candy cane colouration with an INSTANT feeling of relief and christmas happiness on my part

anyways, the changes I've made to the tank since last post was making a cool looking breeder box, moving rocks and marimo balls around in the 30 gal, destroyed all the duckweed (never ever gonna touch that stuff again) and replaced it with frogbit, and lastly, took my 10 gal's lighting and used it as a light source for the breeder box 

I will post pictures in a about a week when I get my camera back  and hope that in about 1-2 months they'll start breeding =D


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

damn ): one of the 10 CRS died... he didn't look well during the drip-acclimation so I wasn't all that surprised that the little one (-----) didn't make it. He didn't move at all much...

But the rest of them are doing well and grazing the cholla wood biofilm that I left a long for a long while to build up so that's awesome. Hopefully no more deaths will occur.


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Where did you get them from?

And 6 hour drip. Wow, my guys are lucky if they get an hour. lol. The thing I see with too long of a drip is the bag them come in, especially from shipping, is going to have poop in it, which is going to start ammonia buildup in a small amount of water, and with surface agitation, going to start getting low on O2. I would think after 6 hours, the water in there isn't that good. Granted the ammonia is diluted a bit, but still low O2.

I dunno, drip for 8 hrs vs drip for an hour vs plop and drop are all everyones opinion on whats best, etc. lol.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

I luckily found a guy on the GTA Aquaria forum you linked me a long while back for plants who sold CRS and was in my area  goes by Jaysin in the forum

I got 10 CRS for $42.00

and paid $5.00 for a bunch of frogbit ($0.50 each) to replace my duckweed lol

and I was originally going to do a 4 hour drip acclimation but I did 6 hours instead because he said that he did 6 hours min for his drip acclimating (if you thought I was doing the drip drip for a long time lol)

anyways yeah there was some poop in the bucket I put them in and I was thinking that might of been the cause, and I asked whether I should run an airstone in the bucket while running the drip but he said it wasn't needed. But still, only 1 casualty isn't too bad  but it is a shame lol

Hopefully I don't get anymore unpleasant surprises. Hopefully after a week of monitoring and having everything run smoothly, I can probably calm down and lower my paranoia and just take good care of CRS and get some breeding done.

and man did I see a giant molt in the tank today so I would be surprised if I find one berried anytime soon. But then I'm expecting them to berry at about 1.5-2 months down the line (that was the time frame he said that they would be berrying in if I remember correctly)


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Minor Updates + Future Plan:

- Modded my HOB filter so the output flow isn't a waterfall being poured into the tank (it was making a current that I felt was too strong for the CRS)

- Added an air stone and wrapped it around the middle section of the intake pipe of the HOB to make up for taking away the aeration the HOB filter used to provide

- Going to buy a canister filter on Saturday (Eheim 2211 Classic)

My water is going to be so awesomely filtered =D

only filtration I won't have in my tank is a UGF  and I'll probably never implement one because they seem like too much of a hassle to maintain. Besides, HOB, Sponge, Canister is probably enough lol!


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

How'd you do the mod on the output? Picture?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Can't provide pictures cause my camera has been taken to a different province (Calgary) for a wedding + vacation lol. But I will go picture crazy when I get it back just to show what has changed and to show my CRS =p

It's a little hard to explain but what I did was make a ghetto medieval drawbridge to block the AC50 waterfall output.

Part 1: Making a support beam

1. Took the clear tube off a sponge filter I wasn't using anymore
2. Slipped on 2 suction cups that is used for heaters onto the tube (one on each end)

http://www.angelsplus.com/images/hhhsc.jpg

Part 2: The "drawbridge" - basically a roof of a betta kit 

http://www.critter-cages.com/images/hg13400.jpg

1. Took the roof off of the kit
2. Took an airline tube and fastened it onto the "support beam (sponge filter tube)" by putting the airline tube through the 2 holes on the betta kit roof and repeatedly inserting/stringing the airline tube through the sponge filter tube and tied the airtube into a secure knot

Now you have a little bridge that can be attached to your back aquarium wall.

Part 3: Completing the Drawbridge and making it work

1. Placed the tube's suction cups + the betta kit roof under the AC50's output (where the waterfall would occur)

2. Lifted the betta kit roof (bridge) upwards, and have it lean on my aquarium roof (the rectangular opening wedge)

So it should look something like this (except the thing that is keeping it up is that it is leaning on my aquarium roof opening):

http://images.amazon.com/images/G/01/toys/detail-page/B0002HZSVW-1-lg.jpg

So pretty much the water hits the betta kit roof and it goes through the small slits that is in the roof and the waterfall current is now practically a small breeze lol.

I will upload pics someday because I have no doubt my word explanation is a bit confusing XD it doesn't look ugly in my aquarium at all and it isn't even noticeable so I love it. Very secure too 

Anyways, I'm going to have one hell of a time trying to put together my Eheim 2211 because from what I've heard the instructions are pretty bad (and I hope they aren't as bad as the explanation I just gave for my AC50 mod LOL)


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I just did what Randyl did, went to the buck store and got a shower holder, put some plastic pot scrubbers in and not only does it slow the flow, but add's more bio-media. About $15 at the buck store and I had enough to do this to like 7 tanks.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

lol I actually saw the post on that mod and went out to a dollarama near my house ): didn't seem like they carried that thing

maybe when I run into it at a dollar store in the future I'll do a switch lol

the mod I have now will have to do for now. I do love the idea of more bio-media.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Okay! I found the EXACT shower holder that randyl used to mod his hob (YESSSSSS!)

and man it was $1.13 so awesomely cheap !

then I went to a petstore to get some stuff to fill the thing with

- FLUVAL BIOMAX
http://thereefshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=140

- FLUVAL WATER POLISHING PAD
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2753127

so I'm going to get started on that now  and replace my ghetto medieval drawbridge lol


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

So large is that shower caddy thing? Seems like ~4-5in width, ~4-5in height, ~2in depth? Where there any smaller ones?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

That was the only size I could find. And I got it instantly cause it already had suction cups on it and it was the exact one that was in the picture that was posted lol.

I roughly measured the dimensions for you and it isssssssss approximately...

Length side to side ~6.5" <----------->
Width up and down ~ 3" ^ v
Depth top to bottom ~ 4.5" - _

I roughly used a tape measure to get those lol. Didn't want to stick it into the water lol ;/


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I just filled mine with plastic pot scrubbers for biomedia from the same dollar. lol. They do sell smaller ones, multi-compartment ones, all kinds depending on the dollar store. FYI, shrimp will climb in the holes and eat on the goodies building up on the bio media. Don't mind them, if they can crawl through a hole to get in, they can crawl and get out. lol.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Okay! Since it's my birthday today I think I'm going to go out and get the following for my tank on Saturday !

6 CBS (S Grade)
6 CRS (SS Grade)

+

Eheim 2213 Classic Canister Filter (Getting it as a gift! woot!)

Hopefully all runs well on Saturday without any casualties!


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## CPD (Feb 7, 2012)

shrimpzoo said:


> Okay! Since it's my birthday today I think I'm going to go out and get the following for my tank on Saturday !
> 
> 6 CBS (S Grade)
> 6 CRS (SS Grade)
> ...


Happy birthday! Haha I did the same thing a few days ago for my birthday. A couple of CRS as a present to myself 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

lol thanks.

it's always so amusing to tell my friends that I want shrimp or a canister filter when they ask me what I want for my birthday XD


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Update:

6 CBS (S Grade)
6 CRS (SS Grade)
^ All successfully acclimated no deaths

Eheim 2213 Classic Canister Filter installed =D (will replace sponge prefilter with a stainless steel one in the future)

modded my HOB filter (to lower output flow and increase biomedia of tank)

and now for some pictures:

- Breeder Box










- HOB Filter Mod


























I'll upload pictures of the tank with the eheim and some pictures of the shrimp when my internet isn't so slow and when I get them sent to me from my cousin.

Since, apparently my camera got dropped in Calgary cause someone decided to toss it... sigh* lens is broken so yeah.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Hm.. I'll have to check out getting one of those soap dishes. Do you place covers on your tanks? Or do you think having the soap dish under the output will effect the covering?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Not sure what you mean by covers/covering lol

All I did was put the soap dish into the tank by suction cupping it against the back of aquarium so it gets in the way of the AC50's waterfall

I don't think it could effect anything other than what we want it to do (lower flow of HOB)


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

Change the title of this thread 
Nice shrimps! I recently started my CRS career too, and I've got to say that they re the absolute best shrimp I have ever kept.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Thanks, and I have no idea how to change the title of the thread (I doubt I could lol)

If I can, tell me ;D and I have to agree that the CBS/CRS are the best shrimp I've ever kept too but lol I've only kept RCS before these guys XD so it isn't saying much but nonetheless these guys are AWESOME.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

So cover, like a glass cover over the tank to reduce evaporation and keep unwanted things out of the tank. Something like this:








Seems the soap dish won't affect the ability to fully close the glass cover !

As for editing the title of the thread. Click on your first post and click "edit" then click on "advanced". Then you'll see an option to edit the title on the top!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Ah those glass covers lol. I had one for my 10gal tank long ago 

and yeah it won't affect the ability to fully close the glass cover because it'll be submerged inside your tank underneath the HOB.









(not an up to date picture btw)

and thanks for the thread edit protocol


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## rodcuda (Jul 25, 2012)

Looking good, you have room for a few hundred more in there!!!!!


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## tinkerpuppet (Feb 13, 2010)

I like that little breeder box you have. I don't have a lot of knowledge about breeding shrimp (which I why I keep having to buy more, hah!), but do you just put your berried shrimp in there until they have their babies?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

You could put berried shrimp in there until the eggs hatch OR you could put a male and a female shrimp in there for selective breeding purposes 

for the meantime, I'm going for mass breeding (so I won't use the breeder box yet). I want to hit about 150 shrimp then I will probably selectively breed the SS grades.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Bam:

A bunch of random shrimp pictures


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Congrats! Hope that makeshift cave doesn't fall on some shrimplets :3


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

So today I decide to look through thee ole tank to check up on my CRS/CBS but I found something that I never expected to see EVER again.

I found a RCS from my previous 10 gal tank... and I'm thinking to myself... no way. Has to be a super sick CRS/CBS but no it was a RCS fully faded orangey red colour all over (at one point I tried to play it off as an underwater spider falling into the tank or some trick of the light lol).

and I was in disbelief for like 5 mins staring at it. It was grazing on the inside of my driftwood. I'm just hoping that it's the ONLY RCS in the tank lol. I didn't take him out cause I was stunned and decided to leave him be because that is pretty huge accomplishment... I mean this guy... was in the tank from day 1 (when I transferred the driftwood/coconut cave [with the java moss] in my other tank)

I know it isn't uncommon for shrimp to be transferred along with moss but the things this guy has been through

RCS truly are the tanks of the shrimp world lol JUST because:

He literally handled a tank with a TDS of 0 (0 gH 0 kH) for like a good long amount of minutes (the day I changed from tap to RO). Handled a giant parameter change gH 12 kH 9 pH 7.8 to gH 4-5 kH 0-1 pH 5.5-6.0 (current tank parameters) and gosh do I feel bad unknowingly putting him through that...

I guess his prize is to live amongst the CRS/CBS in super clean filtered water lol...


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

I had a RCS baby do that to me on some moss, had to be about a day or two old, through a tank of cycling, and lived amongst my CRS in a 5.0pH tank.


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

He'll be a god among the CRS/CBS. The CRS/CBS babes should bear his seed!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

only if the seed gives genetic hardiness and not physique to offspring ;D I will welcome it! that would be awesome ._.


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## FrogsAreDogs (Oct 12, 2012)

DAWG get yo self some sulawesi its worth it trust me bro 

trussst


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## Overgrowth (Feb 19, 2012)

Do you have any berried shrimp/babies yet?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Hey, yeah I have like at least 6 of them berried from what I can see (saw like 4 CRS and 2 CBS berried), possibly more . No babies sighted yet though, but I am definitely preparing for them.

First I thought I had only 1 CRS berried but then I saw 2 CRS berried and realized they were switching with each other in the spotlight lol (so that was an awesome surprise). Then I saw a bunch more berries when I was checking on what I thought were the only 2 berried shrimp for hatched/dropped the eggs (at this point I was having a mini celebration inside).

Been feeding MosuraBioplus every 3 days (Sundays & Wednesdays) so the babies will definitely have something to feed on. and Saturdays is food for adults.

Right now I'm trying to "fix" my TDS and gH so it is down to 5 gH and ~175 TDS. It is at 185 TDS and 6gH as of today. Going to be doing 10% RO WCs until I hit that spot I really want.

Going to be doing WCs every 2 weeks with the week in-between for RO top off once this issue is fixed.

Hopefully all goes well and I get to see shrimplets  !!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Just felt like updating this journal since I feel it has changed a fair amount and progressed nicely lol


























What I've changed:
- Added 23" Marineland Bubble Wand (for oxygenation)
- Added Ebiken Shou/Nagomi (for trace minerals)
- Added Indian Almond Leaves (for biofilm w/ magical tannin juices)
- Added peacock moss to left of the tank
- Replaced feeding dish with reptile water dish to look more "realistic" (blend in)
- Replaced light with Zoomed Florasun (pinkish hue)
- Removed frogbit and replaced with riccia (floating)

Babies are now everywhere and survival rate is looking pretty good. Hopefully it remains that way and I can hit my goal of ~200 CRS/CBS. Planning to add White Goldens into the mix.

Ideal tank paramaters are set at:
~200 TDS
~5.5-6.0 pH
~ 4-5 gH
~ 0-1 kH
~ Temp 21-23'C

Anyways, just thought I'd ask 1 question while posting an update about my aquarium:

Will my riccia pull through? The one that yellowing. It became yellow because it wasn't in direct light of the aquarium (which is why the other 2 are perfectly fine). And the skewer system I made is there to position and keep the riccia in direct lighting.

Also, will the Java Moss be okay with the riccia island floating on top of it? I hope the shade of the riccia won't start killing my Java moss.


















Thanks for reading  !


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

Wow your java moss recovered very well! Initially it was very brown and what not !

Ricca has always grown out of control for me, to the point I threw it all away since I couldn't keep it attached on anything. I would wait ~1week for and see if the ricca recovers. If it doens't just chuck the yellowing sections out and the healthier parts should regrow.

As for java moss lighting, I don't think it will mind being partially shaded. It's not a high light plant. What will actually happen is that the java moss on the way bottom of that bush will slowly die off.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

lol yeah the java moss made a full recovery and is smothering the driftwood beneath it. But meh, the driftwood is so the shrimp have a nice little tunnel system where they can gamble and have fun.

I will return to the tank again in 2 or 3 weeks and see if it shows any signs of improvement.

and lol wow the java moss at the very bottom slowly dies off o.o I hope that stuff dissolves away so the java moss doesn't keep piling on and on and on and blow the roof of my aquarium off (not literally but yeah).


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## diwu13 (Sep 20, 2011)

You dont' feed this tank every week? Only every 2-3 weeks?

Yea.. the problem is if you let it get too bushy as the bottom dies it will become detached from your DW. You should give it a trim and sell some off to make sure that doesn't happen.


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## mordalphus (Jun 23, 2010)

> and lol wow the java moss at the very bottom slowly dies off o.o I hope that stuff dissolves away so the java moss doesn't keep piling on and on and on and blow the roof of my aquarium off[censored]


That does happen! It turns really light green underneath but doesn't die, just stays dormant but keeps growing over and over until tank is full


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Riccia has made a come back and is green green green.

However, I've decided to fix the problem where if the riccia grows out of the path of light it will yellow up and die.

I've replaced my hood with a glass hinged top and replaced my single T8 fixture with a Dual T5HO fixture with mounting legs.

- AquaticLife T5 HO Dual Lamp Light Fixtures (36")

I'm just hoping I won't be melting my low light plants. AKA my marimo balls/java ferns/java moss/peacock moss.

Do you guys think this might happen? I set the timer on 7 hours a day (11:30AM --> 6:30PM). I will probably make a thread about this on the light thread and see what the responses are.

Anyways, here are the pics lol:














































I love this lighting. Makes everything oh so pretty. 

Well that is all for updates. In the future I plan on implementing a sump and designing my breeder box to start selectively breeding shrimp with golden bees I plan to obtain and/or have the box hold CRS/CBS I plan to sell to people for quick capture.

Cheers.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Golden Bees have now been obtained! Yay!

Arrived through the mail and were so stressed they looked like orange neos...


My drip acclimating set-up


Them being settled in and colouring back to what I hoped they would be *whew*:







and here is the tank as it is today. I have trimmed it a bunch and it looks much neater... and I used my trimmings as a filter media for my breeder box filter L-O-L








Future plans: get taiwan bees/michlings for my birthday and find a sponge filter I can use to fit into my breeder box to have it actually running as a breeder box rather than a ghetto HOB filter.

Been looking into poret foam 4" cube filters (http://www.swisstropicals.com/Poret Filter Foam.html). If someone could recommend me a mini/micro sponge filter that can fit into a marina HOB breeder box (large) perfectly I would love to hear it.

Cheers!


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## FrogsAreDogs (Oct 12, 2012)

Insane in the membrane


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

This is epic!


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

Looking great.

I don't think you'll need a sponge filter for the breeder box. I've bred tons of babies in mine with just substrate and moss. As long as you have some moss in it, you'll be fine.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Oh cool, so no need for filtration in the breeder box, but would oxygenation be a problem then? Seems like the drip coming from the breeder box tube isn't disturbing the surface of the water much.

Should I at least implement an air stone or is the breeder box fine on its own without a filter & bubbler lol. Just want to be sure


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## somewhatshocked (Aug 8, 2011)

If you feel like flow into the breeder box isn't strong enough and you're using an air pump, maybe consider getting a larger pump with adjustable flow. You should be able to pick up a pretty fancy one for about $10. Some even have dual outputs (see Ken's Fish in US or Angel Fins in Canada has some great ones under $20) so you could also keep a tiny sponge filter inside the breeder box for the shrimp to graze on.

Or if you want to really go tech-y, you could use a Hagen Mini Elite internal filter to pump water into the box.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Awesome update.

Currently dripping 5 michlings and a golden bee. And going to receive a BKK shrimp within the next 2 weeks  !!

Going to house them in my breeder box and create the ultimate melting pot ever 'A' my dream shrimp-scheme in action cheers!


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

So my breeder box is basically a giant moss pit lol:


and I've modded it so the output gate is actually stainless steel mesh so it will ensure no shrimp can get out:



Here are the michlings (2CRS 3CBS):


the suction cups is so they don't stress run themselves 24/7 into the dripping from the intake (also added greater duckweed floaters for that purpose).



Hopefully my design isn't flawed in any way. First time I've actually incorporated a breeder box.

I ordered a mini sponge filter for my breeder box so that should make it ideal (it is called an xy 2835 - you can look it up on ebay or google)

Until then... I will plan to get a F8 michling and BKK in the incoming weeks ahead.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

My shy BKK (new addition into my michling breeder box project)


Bought the breeder box to the font of the tank for easy monitoring (still waiting for my microsponge filter)


Now that I moved my breeder box into the front of my tank, I'm thinking about possibly implementing a system where I don't need to replace my active substrate by instead putting active substrate in either a "HOB breeder box or HOB filter" to have it bring my pH down... since there is a lot more back space where the breeder box used to be.

I'd like to avoid resetting my whole tank to replace the substrate. But I would only if my "idea" is just outright stupid and shouldn't be done (feedback here would be nice).

If I were to do a reset once it no longer buffers below 7pH (I'll reset when I starts hovering @ 6.6pH) I will redesign my tank so 1/3rd of it is substrate and the other 2/3rds is bare glass, and have my bees placed in a giant tub with a sponge filter for a week. That way cleaning and replacing substrate will be easier in the future.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

One of my michlings is berried  !

I'm hoping my BKK got "busy" with her. Nonetheless, I hope the babies survive and grow up well in my breeder box. Ebay seller had to reship my micro-sponge filter for the breeder box so I'm hoping I can get that up and running for better survival rates. Got some cool (what I think is cool) looking pictures of the berried michling.





and in other news, my idea to use a HOB Breeder Box as an active substrate holder works  I got my pH down to 5.5 as if the tank was running with new substrate day 1.






and I repositioned my spraybar of my Eheim 2213 for better water agitation:


and lastly, my riccia just looks awesome enveloping my michling breeder box's prefilter sponge:



Next update will probably be when I get my microsponge filter in the mail ~incoming 2.5 weeks and when the babies hatch and are sighted


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## TankYouVeryMuch (Jul 5, 2013)

Great thread!

How old are your marimo's?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Not sure about their age but I've had about the first 2 about for 2 years and the other 3 for 1 year lol XD


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## randyl (Feb 1, 2012)

Very nice and the shrimps look very healthy in your tank. Hope it was the bkk that did the job.


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## Julianzh (Jul 28, 2011)

What kind of active substrate did you put in your breeder box?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

"Netlea Crystal Shrimp Soil"


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## Phantomic (Apr 17, 2013)

Did the substrate release tannins into your water? I need to find a way of reducing my PH without tannins.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Active substrates do not release tannins to alter pH.

Here is a list of active substrates generally used for crystal bee shrimp:

ADA Aqua Soil Amazonia
Netlea Shrimp Soil
Benibachi Black Soil
Borneo Wild Shrimp Soil
Lowkeys/Crimson Breeders Soil
Ebi Gold Shrimp Soil
Ebi-Ten Shrimp Soil
Shirakura Red Bee Sand
Akadama Bonsai Soil
Fluval Shrimp Stratum
Up Aqua Shrimp Sand
Mr Aqua Shrimp Soil


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

FINALLY. My micro-sponge filter has arrived in the mail  and I love how small it is lol:


Had to chop a bit off the plastic tube with a knife but it works really well 



I now think that I am done in terms of gearing up my tank  everybody seems happy




Now to try get my hands on princess bee shrimp. As well as, taiwan bees and michlings and introducing whiter band bees to make the generations stronger and prettier 

Now back to waiting for my michling to hatch her eggs.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Tore down my snowball tank --> sold all the snowballs --> made the 10gal into a cull tank.

Simple build:
Driftwood + Java Moss
Netlea Shrimp Soil Substrate
ATI Hydro Sponge Filter
Glass Feeding Dish








Will get 5 Princess Bees in the future and put them into the melting pot in hopes to breed Princess Bees and possibly have a Paracaridina x Caridina cross that breed and/or look awesome. They do not come cheap in Canada ($10 each), wish they were the price of $0.70 like Vietnam lol ):

Will leave the cull tank to establish for about 1 month.

All of this in one day! EXTREME exhaustion.


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## Chrisinator (Jun 5, 2008)

Awesome job on that breeder box!


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## Saxtonhill (Dec 28, 2012)

Thanks for listing all the substrates


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## newbieplanter (Jan 13, 2013)

What are the blue n tan colored balls in the tank with the shrimp?





shrimpzoo said:


> FINALLY. My micro-sponge filter has arrived in the mail  and I love how small it is lol:
> 
> 
> Had to chop a bit off the plastic tube with a knife but it works really well
> ...


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

newbieplanter said:


> What are the blue n tan colored balls in the tank with the shrimp?


Grey ball = Ebiken Nagomi: "Nagomi is a ceramic based mineral ball which will continually release over 50 trace minerals into the water for shrimps to use for up to 2 years."

Tan ball = Ebiken Shou: "Shou is an amazing product that has antibacterial properties, releases trace minerals, absorbs harmful toxins, deodorizes water, and as an active filtering media.This product contain: zinc, lithium, iodine, selenium, and 20 other trace elements which over a long period of time will slightly alter the TDS."

There are other alternatives to these mineral balls. Such as, benibachi crimson bee ball, azoo max bio balls, mineral rocks, etc.

They are used to add trace minerals into the water when you use RO water. Aren't necessary but are nice thing to have.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Berried michling gave birth. No TBs though ): but I'm happy I got the eggs to hatch and shrimplets to survive.




And since I had no internet for 20+ days (Teksavvy = Terrible) I decided to busy myself by upgrading the equipment on my tank:




It was hell trying to cram the EHEIM tubing to the powerhead and sponge filter. But well worth it. Oxygenation increased because the output flow of the powerhead is awesome and the system is much quieter VS when it was run using an air pump.

And speaking of air pumps, I traded in my bunch of air pumps for one giant 4 output air pump:




Sadly it was broken because I noticed the 1st output was really really weak, I opened it up and had to do some super glue surgery:





The electricity cost should be lowered  and the overall noise is better. It would be dead quiet if I did not have the air pump... but I need it for the sake of my breeder boxes.

Besides that... my setup looks much neater @ the bottom of the tank:


and I made a sell cull box for locals to isolate:


HOW IT IS TODAY:


Now here are some random berried shrimp:





That's all folks XD


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## hakishimiei (Oct 13, 2011)

Wow! I never thought of using a breeder box like that. Ill give it a try. 
Very nice tank


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## usgetata (Dec 28, 2012)

Very nice setup! I learned a few things by reading the whole thread 👍


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Few changes made to the tank:

- Added new piece of driftwood to the right of the tank
- Added 3 porous lava rocks to the tank
- Added water lettuce/amazon frogbit
- Added sponge prefilter to my cull breeder box
- Moved feeding dish as the result of adding new driftwood





They seem to like it so far:


Rocks:




Picture of riccia slowly climbing into AquaClear filter:


Super nitrate sucking machine lol:


And a bunch of babies in the substrate if you can see them in this low quality shot ):


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## bostoneric (Sep 7, 2011)

Love the idea of using a larger breeder box for other purposes!


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## BBXB (Sep 18, 2013)

Awesome progress and journal. Wondering if you know the rough number you started with/bought and have currently?


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## newbieplanter (Jan 13, 2013)

How often do u change the water, and is it brackish or fully fresh?




shrimpzoo said:


> Few changes made to the tank:
> 
> - Added new piece of driftwood to the right of the tank
> - Added 3 porous lava rocks to the tank
> ...


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

@BBXB
Started with roughly 20. Total population is probably in the 200s now.

@newbieplanter
I do water changes every 6 months. You can read more about how I take care of crystals in my crystal shrimp breeding guide @ http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=379641


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## blue1delta (Jan 8, 2013)

Great tank! What breeder boxes are you using? Sorry if it's already in the thread I missed it. Thanks


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Marina Hang On Holding and Breeding Box, Large


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

Well. I stared into my breeder box today to find out 2 surprises.

1. My "male" BKK who was suppose to be a stud for my michlings turned out to be berried. Mixed feelings on that one lol.




2. Another michling is berried so I get to play the waiting game to see if my odds of getting TBs will increase lol.



So hopefully things will run smoothly in my breeder box... and the 'kanoko' shrimp I put in the 30gal seem to be hanging out and in good shape, so all is well 



Happy to have had this tank run for +1year with no issues lalala~


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## randyl (Feb 1, 2012)

So your male BKK is Berried ;-) I hope you have other male TBs in there to increase your odd for mischling producing TBs.


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## Soothing Shrimp (Nov 9, 2011)

Good to see the kanoko doing well.


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

randyl said:


> So your male BKK is Berried ;-) I hope you have other male TBs in there to increase your odd for mischling producing TBs.


I'm hoping for it to be the other way around now lol (since the plan has unexpectedly changed) - sadly I don't have "another"/"a" male TB to get the work done lol. Hopefully now that I have 2 berried shrimp I might get a batch of male TB shrimplets.



Soothing Shrimp said:


> Good to see the kanoko doing well.


Yep they are active around the tank. I can't get a decent picture with them swimming around and grazing.

I may place them into a breeder box so they can find each other to berry easier. Not sure if this would be the best course of action though.


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## Soothing Shrimp (Nov 9, 2011)

Whatever you decide, I'm following closely. I LOVE kanoko shrimp, and would love to see them make a comeback!


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## water-kitties (Mar 19, 2013)

I love your tank! I want to keep a pretty mix of crystals and bees but everyone seems pretty down on keeping golden bees. Also thanks for writing your guide, it helped me set up my tank!


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## Hobbes1911 (Mar 2, 2009)

Any kanoko updates?


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## shrimpzoo (Sep 27, 2011)

They are still hanging about. Nothing new with them yet.

Might be the weather or they might need a bit more time to adjust lol.


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## Soothing Shrimp (Nov 9, 2011)

*Fingers crossed*


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