# Persistent Cyanobacteria...



## Michelangelo (Mar 23, 2006)

I've had major cyano growth for a months now, if not almost a year by now, but i haven't tried to seriously tackle it yet. I'm considering using Maracyn but before that I was wondering if there are some things i need to change to eliminate the underlying causes of it. 

I have a Long 20 Gal Tank (which i suppose has a height profile similar to a 10 Gal) filled with fluorite, and a 20 W 24" fluorescent strip light. 

I'm not sure if my lighting is having any effect on algae growth (btw, i haven' replaced the aqua glo bulb in over a year) but regardless i wanted to pick-up a lighting system with better wattage. I know there are a lot of DIY solutions out there but I don't really wanna invest too much time or work into a tank until i get a bigger one, so for now i was thinking in terms of a quick fix like a better hood from Big Al's (really, the only good hobby shop in my area).

At the same time, my tank gets a lot of organic wastes (the most noticeable from my bristlenose pleco) by the time i clean it by the end of the week so i was thinking increasing the number of plants might help to absorb it or i could get a protein skimmer.

Anyways, I'm open to any suggestions whether it be about getting rid of this cyanobacteria or advice about lighting. I'm new to all this stuff (I've read a lot but everyone seems to have different opinions about pretty much anything) and i'm on a pretty tight budget so the cheaper the better 

Thx in advance.


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## putty (Nov 19, 2003)

From my experience, and reading here, it seems that BGA is triggered by a lack of Nitrates. I would make sure that prior to doing anything you ensure that you have a good level of Nitrates in the tank.

I had a BGA outbreak that lasted for 3 months. I cleaned the tank 3 times a week, and I could literally see it all come back within a day.

I solved my issue with 2 half doses of Maracyn (make sure its Maracyn and not Maracyn 2). Once the BGA was gone, I kept up my N's and it has not come back.

Others had good results with a 3 day black out. There is lots of info. on this here, just do a search.


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## Ryzilla (Oct 29, 2005)

I have done blackouts with success. I tried doing one for 3 days but the BGA came back. Then I did a 5 day and it never came back, and its been about 4 months..


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## Michelangelo (Mar 23, 2006)

thx for the replies so far, and i was wondering...

is there are difference between the tablet and liquid maracyn treatments?

and my tank is in my basement, and often someone is down there so there's fluorescent lighting from the ceiling that indirectly lights up the tank. So basically, if i do a blackout will my house lighting contribute to algae growth? and afterwards, in terms of limiting feeding to keep waste levels down (i have a total of 17 minnows, barbs, etc., 1 otto, and 1 pleco) whats the minimum amount that they could survive on in terms of fish food? alternatively, how long could they survive without food?


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

I do not black out to treat for cyano. Antibiotics can kill off your bio filter.


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## Manofcichlids (Feb 5, 2006)

Maracyn 2 will tackle your cyano without harming the biological filtration or the plants. Also, what I use, is Chemi-Clean usually found in the saltwater sections of your LFS. It's make for saltwater but it works wonders in freshwater as well...I used it in the 400g planted system at my work and it cleaned every drop of cyano out without harming a single thing.


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## Ryzilla (Oct 29, 2005)

Michelangelo said:


> thx for the replies so far, and i was wondering...
> 
> is there are difference between the tablet and liquid maracyn treatments?
> 
> and my tank is in my basement, and often someone is down there so there's fluorescent lighting from the ceiling that indirectly lights up the tank. So basically, if i do a blackout will my house lighting contribute to algae growth? and afterwards, in terms of limiting feeding to keep waste levels down (i have a total of 17 minnows, barbs, etc., 1 otto, and 1 pleco) whats the minimum amount that they could survive on in terms of fish food? alternatively, how long could they survive without food?



You will have to cover your tank in order for your blackout to be absolutely effective. And doing a blackout doesnt meen you stop feeding your fish.


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## Michelangelo (Mar 23, 2006)

sry Ryzilla, i guess i wasn't making my self clear...i was just asking about the starving method because i was thinking about doing the lower feeding/blackout/maracyn stuff at the same time but after thinking about it that might be a bit stressful on the fish if i did it all at once.

i read elsewhere that increasing the number of plants can help and i've been using flourish excel for a while. so i think maybe for the long term i'll get faster growing plants, suggestions for such a plant would be greatly appreciated, and get a new bulb or hood.

lol, i found some expired myacin that i bought in 2004 or 05, anyone think it would be a bad idea to use it?

btw, anyone have an order of treatments they use when fighting algae...for example, blackout first then drugs, simulataneously, etc?


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## YuccaPatrol (Mar 2, 2006)

I would go ahead and use the expired maracyn. 

When I was a research/analytical chemist for a pharmaceutical company, the standard expiration date was set at a point where the drug would still be 90% active after being stored in a room hotter than body temperature. Although different drugs degrade at different rates, most anything expired is still generally in very good shape beyond the point of expiration if it has been kept dry and at room temerature. 

However, I am NOT suggesting you take this approach with anything you put into your own body.

______________

When I do a blackout, I do not feed my fish for the 4 days and do a large water change right before covering the tank.


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## albinooscar (Jan 25, 2005)

Manofcichlids said:


> Maracyn 2 will tackle your cyano without harming the biological filtration or the plants. Also, what I use, is Chemi-Clean usually found in the saltwater sections of your LFS. It's make for saltwater but it works wonders in freshwater as well...I used it in the 400g planted system at my work and it cleaned every drop of cyano out without harming a single thing.


How did you find out about this? I have some Chemi-Clean that I bought for my reef tank and never thought about using it on my planted tank. How many times have you used it in your planted tank? Did you use the same dosage the directions say for a reef tank?

Ron


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## jimjim (Nov 9, 2003)

The easiest way to get rid of Blue-green bacteria is to use the small red ramshorn snails. The small ones are kinda hard to find but they will eat Cynobacteria. When they run out they tend to die off to a low level. I've kept them for years and gave out a bunch so I know theres some out there. If you cant find any close PM me. You can tell them by an almost clear red shell and not much bigger than a pencil eraser..They also do well on the brown alge..Jim PS the worst problem with these snails is they'll get into canister filters and break impellers


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## albinooscar (Jan 25, 2005)

Are these the ones you are talking about?

Or these


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## jimjim (Nov 9, 2003)

*Schnails*

Heres a pic of one in my stuff tank (as in whatever I find until I put it somewhere 40gal long) My photography skills are non-existant but maybe it will help. They get no bigger than 3/8" if you streach it. Usually people overlook them thinking they baby regular 1/2" to 1" ramshorns. ...And no neither of those are the ones I mean Albinooscar. I dont know if anyone sells them. Most people just overlook them. Usually you'll see them in old established tanks..If you have a lot of mulm and/or bacteria like blue green or brown alge you'll see a lot but theyll die back after a while and leave lots of empty shells..BTW loaches LOVE these things...Jim


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## albinooscar (Jan 25, 2005)

jimjim said:


> My photography skills are non-existant but maybe it will help.


And I thought I couldn't take a picture!:biggrin: 

But it looks like they are not the same kind as the ones in the second link which have a red foot.

Thanks jimjim


Ron


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

Make sure to add KNO3 after you kill the BGA(however you chose, there are 4 basic ways).

Please, when you folks tell people and advise them on controlling BGA, make sure you tell then to add KNO3 and make sure they do not allow the NO3 to run down.

This will help me to stop nagging and repeating myself 100X, it will help you to address the cause of BGA and also not have to repeat yourself also.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## jimjim (Nov 9, 2003)

BTW, If you want some and will pay postage (whatever the PO says). I'll send you a few. Let me know before the weekend is out because after Tuesday I'll be down for 8 weeks (theyre replacing two neck bones). 8-(...Jim


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## albinooscar (Jan 25, 2005)

YuccaPatrol,
I got rid of BGA over the weekend. I ended up using the Chemi-Clean. I will have to make sure that I do a couple of water changes though before I introduce the snails that jimjim is selling to me. I know when I use the Chemi-Clean in my reef tank it did not hurt the snails at all but I don't know what it will do to freshwater snails as it is made specifically for saltwater tanks.

jimjim,
I hope that your surgery goes well. I have a couple of friends here that have gone trough similar surgeries. They came through with flying colors and said it was the best thing they could have done and feel like a kid again. Look forward to getting the snails and hearing about how your surgery went.

Ron


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