# aquarium stand in raw industrial style



## intermediate_noob

That is a darn fine looking stand in my opinion. Keep the picks coming of the final product. I really want to see what this looks like finished.

Great work!


----------



## Wicket_lfe

intermediate_noob said:


> That is a darn fine looking stand in my opinion. Keep the picks coming of the final product. I really want to see what this looks like finished.
> 
> Great work!


 
I think that is the final product. 

It's definitley different. Very clean too. Good job. :thumbsup:


----------



## Regloh

I like it! My question would be, where do you hide the equipment?


----------



## Gatekeeper

Regloh said:


> My question would be, where do you hide the equipment?


You don't. Thats the beauty of it. Its all exposed. If organized right it probably looks real sharp too!

Nice job. :thumbsup:


----------



## jinx©

Doesn't get much simpler than that. Personally, the more i look at it the more like it for some reason...lol...I think it's just the clean industrial lines and simplicity of it roud:


----------



## suebe333

Very Nice  I love it ...


----------



## BayBoy1205

I really like the look of the stand, but I think if you could find brass supports this would bring it to a whole new level.


----------



## houstonhobby

I agree about the brass supports. I would like to see the finished product with a working aquarium and all the equipment underneath. I have seen some examples of exposed working equipment where everything is organized neatly and the equipment really adds to the interest of the whole thing. That look would go especially nice with a stand like this.


----------



## wkndracer

Outstanding stand! The finish work appears furniture grade and the color match to the existing floor appears perfect.

Great job as is :thumbsup:


----------



## rich815

houstonhobby said:


> .....I would like to see the finished product with a working aquarium and all the equipment underneath....


Me too. I understand the concept but am skeptical it can be done nicely.


----------



## houstonhobby

*Found the link!*

Wish I could remember the thread. It was a guy that had built a 15 gallon cube and a 5 gallon cube. Both had exposed equipment underneath and both were outstanding, both as planted tanks and as total packages.

Edit: Found the link . . .
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/t.../84900-experimental-15gal-tall-5gal-cube.html


----------



## Hoppy

Outstanding stand design! And, just when I thought I had seen every possible way to make a beautiful stand. With some good discipline, something I lack, the equipment underneath the stand can only make it more outstanding.


----------



## hydrophyte

thanks. aside from the sanding and several coats of varnish it was really easy to put together. this required no special skills or equipment. i cut the pieces of wood with a back saw and mitre box. it all squared up perfectly when i started screwing the connectors together.

the open shelf space with exposed everything underneath conforms to the raw industrial aesthetic.

i will try to get another picture or two. i also put some more description in my blog.


----------



## idontknow

The stand looks great. Nice work! I assume you must not have any little children who would flood your floors with that open design


----------



## Shawnboy

*Parts list*

could you add a parts list?


----------



## intermediate_noob

Wicket_lfe said:


> I think that is the final product.
> 
> It's definitley different. Very clean too. Good job. :thumbsup:


I was referring to the final tank up and running with the exposed equipment.

As an aside, Lowe's sells those brackets, screws, etc. in a Workbench kit that you can design on their website. Did not know it could be used as a tank stand designer too!

You will need Java installed, here is the link:

http://lowes.diyonline.com/servlet/GIB_Base/utilityshelfbegin?projectName=4297117&firstName=&storeName=&UserID=1011


----------



## hydrophyte

Shawnboy said:


> could you add a parts list?


there really isn't much to it. you can see most everything in that first couple photos. one design note that i would add is that the top edges of the stand should be slightly wider and longer (maybe ~1/4") than the aquarium base. while assembling, take care to make sure that the top of the stand is straight and level: i measured from the tops of those vertical 4X4. 

i think that the wood is western red cedar. make sure to use cured wood, not the still-green stuff. naturally, the wood is sanded and finished before assembly. i used an oil-based polyurethane as sanding sealer and waterproof finish.

i did find some screws that looked nice with the galvanized connectors. i will try to post a picture of those. the fastener is made by Strong Tie: model #RTC42. i bought them at Home Depot. they also have a similar one that accepts just 2X4's: model #RTC44. 

i have a little bit more on my blog:

http://hydrophytesblog.com/?p=214

hydrophyte


----------



## rbarn

Check local "Hardwood Lumber" stores in your area for unique
wood selections too.

Lowes is going to have oak and pine and thats it.

Some extra money spent on some exotic wood like Cherry
or hydrophyte's Red Cedar can go a long way in giving your stand
that extra touch.


----------



## monkeyruler90

wow, i love the color of the wood.
great build!


----------



## hydrophyte

that red cedar is used primarily for building decks, so you should be able to find something comparable.

i bought the wood at Menards, which is a Wisconsin-based chain of stores similar to Home Depot or Lowes, except that they have a much better lumber yard.

hydrophyte


----------



## Regloh

idontknow said:


> I assume you must not have any little children who would flood your floors with that open design


I thought the same thing 

I think blair also had an open tank stand design that was pretty snazzy. Those of us with small children are just jealous, that we can't have this


----------



## hydrophyte

nope. no little kids around here.

i plan to post another picture showing this all set up. i also started a thread over on the tank journal forum that describes a display that will have a stand real similar to this one, but for a 55:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/85881-55-gallon-all-crypts-riparium.html


----------



## malaybiswas

The look and feel is outstanding although I am not a big fan of keeping the filter and other equipments in open. But that is just a personal choice.

From a functional side, do you plan to keep the center open and support the tank base only on the edges or do you plan to lay a plank or something on the stand?


----------



## hydrophyte

this is an update with some recent pictures. i include several views to demonstrate specifics of stand build.

here is the whole shebang with tank and green salad on top. all of the tank system components and stand--less the Teklight--were easy to find and pretty economical. 










that _Echinodorus_ flower spike is reaching way out into room. the other plants still need to grow in some more. i used Riparium Supply stuff to plant all of the emergent plants. the underwater plants are planted into pool filter sand. they get bi-weekly ferts and Excel every day. the underwater plants do more or less ok like this because the water is mostly shaded by the emergent stuff.

the aquarium is an Aqueon 65G with the top rim popped off. well, it didn't exactly pop off. i wrestled with it for the better part of an afternoon and i was lucky not to slice my hand wide open.

this is view under stand with Filstar, houseplants, electrical and chicken.










...more detail. the only equipment under here is the filter, a powerstrip and timer. the shelf is a simple rectangle--note gap on each end. i used "sanded" plywood for shelf, using primer as sanding sealer, then a layer of paint and finally several coats of oil-based polyurethane. this gave me a nice finish










this shot is from beneath shelf. four of these brackets hold it up.


----------



## Cactus Bastard

Holy crap that's amazing!


----------



## intermediate_noob

Cactus Bastard said:


> Holy crap that's amazing!


Could not have said it any better myself!

Outstanding job! Hey wasn't I building a stand...hmmm...I should get around to that.


----------



## Hoppy

Absolutely beautiful! And, I have a question I keep forgetting to ask: are the legs chamfered on the bottom? And, do you have levelers for feet, on the legs?


----------



## Tamelesstgr

Very nice work, I like it a lot.


----------



## lumpyfunk

Hoppy said:


> Absolutely beautiful! And, I have a question I keep forgetting to ask: are the legs chamfered on the bottom? And, do you have levelers for feet, on the legs?


I was just wondering the same thing.

This looks great, I wish I could have an open stand. . . .too many little hands.


----------



## hydrophyte

Hoppy said:


> Absolutely beautiful! And, I have a question I keep forgetting to ask: are the legs chamfered on the bottom? And, do you have levelers for feet, on the legs?


the legs are cut flat underneath. however, i attached heavy-duty, screw-on plastic glides under each leg. i am building another one of these and have started a thread in the journals forum. i will try to remember to post a picture.

the floor is pretty flat. i think i put a little scrap of 1/8" plexiglass under just one leg to level it out.


----------



## original kuhli

Very nice work, love the basic yet attractive design. Wouldn't be too tough to turn it into a closed in version either. Nice!


----------



## Hoppy

original kuhli said:


> Very nice work, love the basic yet attractive design. Wouldn't be too tough to turn it into a closed in version either. Nice!












Only took a few minutes!


----------



## hydrophyte

original kuhli said:


> Very nice work, love the basic yet attractive design. Wouldn't be too tough to turn it into a closed in version either. Nice!


yep, i think that it would look real nice skinned with plywood panels painted and finished like the shelf, but set in flush with the natural wood 2X4's and 4X4's. one would just need to add a center brace to stop doors where they meet in middle.

i considered this for the second one that i just started, but i decided to build it too with an open shelf area. 

hydrophyte


----------



## hydrophyte

Hoppy said:


> Only took a few minutes!


you beat me to it! 

how about with a light green, blue or purple--to contrast with the warm cedar hue?


----------



## Sven

Your stand is absolutely gorgeous. But one thing would make me worry, the whole weight of the tank is supported mainly be the 4 legs. The 2x4' between the legs are only held up with the screws, therefore putting alot of pressure on these screws.
This might be OK in your case since you have a terrarium, therefore not as heavy as a fully filled aquarium. But this design would worry me on a stand that should carry a filled tank.


----------



## EricSilver

This is fantastic. I love the shelf with the plant underneath. 

I am going to build one of these in a teak & brass nautical/yacht scheme. The exposed brass and steel CO2 equipment will blend right in.

Just for fun, send the photos to HGTV. I would not be surprised if their designers took an interest. 

Nice job. :thumbsup:


----------



## EricSilver

Sven said:


> Your stand is absolutely gorgeous. But one thing would make me worry, the whole weight of the tank is supported mainly be the 4 legs. The 2x4' between the legs are only held up with the screws, therefore putting alot of pressure on these screws.
> This might be OK in your case since you have a terrarium, therefore not as heavy as a fully filled aquarium. But this design would worry me on a stand that should carry a filled tank.


Actually, the corners support essentially all the weight. I have a wrought iron stand and the front/back/left/right bars bear very little, if any weight.


----------



## hydrophyte

this looks awfully rustic as a post right after Marcin's excellent work, but i just put together another stand with galvanized framing connectors, 2X4's and 4X4's.










this one is for a 55G. i have a few more observations to add.


----------



## hydrophyte

here are the screws that i used










these are fancy screws. it took almost two boxes (about 20 bucks) to put the stand together. the important factor in selecting these was the head, which looked right with the steel connectors.

and here are the glides that i used under each leg.


----------



## hydrophyte

thanks again so much. i hope to have some updates and also some pictures from a similar idea. i might start a new thread for that one.


----------



## hydrophyte

here is a picture demonstrating the other kind of stand that i have been building--simple plywood top tables. this one is for a 20 gallon. it has about 1 1/2" of top sticking out all around the tank, and the legs are aligned with the tank corners.










the next shot shows detail beneath. these legs were scavenged from a cheap fiberboard desk that i found in the trash. i have also built two of these using threaded steel pipe and threaded floor flanges--very easy.










here is the general progression for putting one of these together:


determine size, cut *two* pieces 3/4" sanded plywood wood
mark flange positions, mark holes for screws that will join two pieces of plywood
glue two pieces plywood together, with more fisnished surfaces on outside, screw together tight
allow glue to dry, then remove screws
sand all plywood surfaces smooth
finish with oil-based polyurathane varnish, using as sanding sealer, then applying several addional clean coats
replace screws
attach pipe flanges and screw legs in place
attach rubber leg bases to pipe bottoms
_et voilà_


----------



## Hoppy

You do have to be careful not to get a "racking" failure with that type of stand. For small tanks it should work fine, but I wouldn't dare try it with a 55 gallon tank, for example. Have you figured out how strong it is with side forces applied? Also, not all pipe flange fittings are created equal. The last time I used some, and I can't remember exactly what I was making, they were very poor quality, with the screwed in pipe not at a good right angle to the flat face of the flange. I got the flanges from an Ace Hardware.


----------



## hydrophyte

those are good qualifications to add. i have made these short (~24" tall) to lessen "wobble". i wouldn't put a larger tank on this kind of stand except with substantially thicker pipe.

i probably acquired the same poor-quality flanges that you describe. i had to try different combinations of pre-threaded pipe and flange, and exchange a couple of flanges at the store, but i eventually got the legs to mount square.

the whole thing looks pretty nice all set up.

the only out-of-tank equipment associated with this system was a powerstrip and timer. i hung these on the wall with a tidy, finished piece of plywood.


----------



## bartak

You just gave me an interesting idea for a stand. If I build it I'll post pic's


----------



## hydrophyte

i finally got to replacing the old twin-tube strip lights that i had over my crypts riparium (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/tank-journals-photo-album/85881-now-fish-55-gallon-all-crypts-9.html) with the Jump Start hydroponics T5.

i hung it up as a pendant.










i think that it goes really well with the stand. this was a remarkably economical lighting option.

here's "raw industrial" for ya'. the pendant hanger is just a simple eye bolt with toggle, washer, S-hook and chain.


----------



## hydrophyte

here i have a quick blurb on mounting the powers trip under the 65--i finally got around to it. 

it was easy. i elected to use this product, *3M Dual Lock, Command Picture Hanging Strips.* 










i stuck one on each corner of the power strip's back surface.










i was pleased to find this power strip. it is all black, and goes with the aquarium.

here is mounted on the stand vertical support. the sticky-back mates of the _Dual Locks_ strips are stuck right on the finished wood. _supposedly_, the Command products use a removable adhesive that can be taken off withour marring.










i had started to measure to position the Dual Lock strips on the stand support, but then the much easier option of just sticking them to their mates on the power strip, peeling away the tape covers, then sticking in place occurred to me.


----------



## hydrophyte

i finally made some time to install the shelf under the 55-gallon crypts riparium (see journal post). i think that it looks nice.










i chose a dark green for this shelf, to compliment the colors of the crypts and _Anubias_ in the tank. 










for my 65 South America tank, on the other hand, i painted with a light, bright green--close to the swords, _Acorus_ and other plants in there.

finishing this shelf took a number of coats of primer, paint and varnish, but installation was easy. i used these little shelf brackets.


----------



## NickS

*Similar Design*

This is such a simple and strong design, I love it. Most importantly, She Who Must Be Obeyed loves it as well. 

I'm looking into recreating this design in oak for a 46 gallon bowfront. The only problem is supporting the curve on the front. I was thinking of using a 4x4 post for the front beam and have it extend all the way across to sit on top of the legs. This would support the full curve.

The only hitch is how to connect this up. The framing connectors that you use wouldn't work at this joint and I'm not seeing anything at Home Depot or online that would work. Any thoughts or suggestions?

As I wrote this and looked again at your pictures though, I see that there may be just enough room to put a small block there on the inside corner above the framing connector. I added an example to my drawing (#2).

Would that work? It's only going to have to support a very small area.

Thanks, and great design!


----------



## scapegoat

simple and beautiful


----------



## Hoppy

I don't think this will work well, because the front "beam" would barely be supported by the front legs, if at all. Something like this would work, but would be difficult to use the steel brackets on:


----------



## NickS

Hoppy said:


> I don't think this will work well, because the front "beam" would barely be supported by the front legs, if at all. Something like this would work, but would be difficult to use the steel brackets on:


Not entirely sure what you're referring to because the curve wouldn't be extending past the frame as you're showing in your drawing. My design #2 is basically the same design as hydrophyte's original. The front horizontal beam would be supported by the framing connector and the tiny bit of the bowfront curve that misses this support would be supported by the addition of a small block. The outline of the tank is the grey that is over top of the black. The curve I've drawn is fairly accurate and should lay across the beams where I show it. (Also, I'm not trying to match the curve in the design of the stand; it will be a rectangular stand.)

As for design #1, the 4x4 horizontal post would be set on top of the front legs. The front legs would then be shorter than the back legs to accommodate for this. The problem is, how would I fasten it all together at those joints?


----------



## Hoppy

Sorry, now I understand the sketches. No. 2 would work perfectly, giving you the appearance you want, and supporting the tank well. All you need to do is support the rim of the tank, since the bottom glass doesn't touch the stand, unless it is a rimless tank.


----------



## Diana

I did something like that for a 72 gallon bowfront. I used 6 x 6 to support the bowed front. But the legs are shorter. I built a box that matched the tank frame and the legs do not touch the tank. The box sits on the legs. 

I got a great deal on... 
Western Red Cedar, kiln dried, select tight knot, rough. 

My boss ordered some special cut sizes for an arbor (patio cover) and the lumber yard messed up. I got enough 6 x 6, 3 x 3, and 3 x 6 to make several tank stands. (With a few small scraps for use as dog chew toys)
I built them all with the basic plan of 4 pieces on top (rectangle the tank sits on), legs cut shorter so the box sits on the legs. The whole thing would stand up by itself without screws (until the wind blew it over). Screws and brackets are all inside, not exposed. However, they are all open style, no doors or walls on any of them. 

I used different methods of sealing them. Some with lightly tinted stain that made the color richer (left over stain from refinishing my hardwood floor) but still allowed the grain to show. All were sealed with clear polyurethane. The rough finish of the wood ate through the brushes and pads I used to apply the stains and sealers.

Here is the plan for a larger tank. Again, note that the tank sits on a box which in turn sits on the legs.


----------



## NickS

Wow, that's sweet! Did you make a thread about this anywhere else? I'd love to read more on it.

Right now I'm having trouble finding the wood to get started. I found cedar at Home Depot, but it's green... none of the local lumber yards have decent web sites so I'm going to start calling them soon. I'm hoping to find something in stock that I won't have to have cut or special ordered. We'll see...

Any thoughts on what types of wood would work for this? I'm trying to find oak first of all, but I think that's going to be tough.


----------



## CL

Hey, hydro. Do you remember what type of paint you used on the shelf/ what finish? Can you notice the grain of the wood, or is it easily concealed with sanding and a couple of coats of paint (on both the ends of the plywood sheet and on the top)? Sorry for all of the questions haha.


----------



## RipariumGuy

I really like this stand, but how much did it cost? With out the stain?


----------



## hydrophyte

Hey you guys I just saw that this thread was responded into again. I got a real nice effect with the painted shelf and I recommend adding that if you might consider doing one of these. Here are the steps I followed to finish the shelf:


one coat Zinsser water-based primer
sand with fine (220 grit) sandpaper
another light coat Zinsser
paint
oil-based polyurathane 
another coat oil-based polyurathane

I added it up a while ago and I saw that the total for materials for that stand was about $150.


----------



## CardBoardBoxProcessor

That is not industrial. This is. http://i427.photobucket.com/albums/pp358/CBBP/tank002-1.jpg

But I love the look all the same. If I was able to cut wood the same lengths every time I would have done that. But alas I never can T_T


----------



## OverStocked

I am building a stand based on this for my Ornate Wood Turtle's WInter enclosure. It is a 40B that I am making to sit very low(2 feet) so that my son can see into it all the time. 

THe tank was 40 bucks at petco..... The stand has cost about 90 so far....


----------



## hydrophyte

Yeah it looks like a real simple design but the materials are surprisingly costly. Those galvanized framing connectors alone were almost fifty bucks.


----------



## OverStocked

Yeah, 8 brackets at 5.90 a piece, 1 cedar 4x4 at 20 bucks, 2 cedar 2x4 at 9 bucks, screws cost me 11 bucks and varnish and brush and sand paper was about 20. 

116 bucks was the total... and the tank cost 40!


----------



## OverStocked

here is my 40B that is for my Ornate Wood TUrtle's winter home









Deliberately low so my kid can see in. They are best friends. 

The tank is going to be drilled for my sunsun, so that there is less clutter. Will be my first time drilling a tank...


----------



## hydrophyte

Hey that look great. I imagine that a turtle tank will look good nice and low like that so the adults can look down in too. Will the Sun Sun fit into that space, and what kind of wood did you end up using?


----------



## OverStocked

The sun sun will fit under the stand. The wood is cedar.


----------



## bl4nket

@hydrophyte best post ever. Has gave me some great ideas for my stand.


----------



## hydrophyte

Thanks!


----------



## scapegoat

where'd you get the brackets?


----------



## OverStocked

scapegoat said:


> where'd you get the brackets?


home depot near the lumber on an end cap. They are framing brackets and you'll see them by deck brackets and such. 

Don't underestimate the cost. My stand for my 40B cost me about 90 bucks to build using 4x4 and brackets.


----------



## scapegoat

hmmm, i'll have to take another look b/c i didnt seem them previously. My 20l tank has probably cost me around 90 as well due to using stain graded poplar


----------



## reybie

The stand looks great! Definitely gave me ideas for my shrimp tank stand.


----------



## OverStocked

scapegoat said:


> hmmm, i'll have to take another look b/c i didnt seem them previously. My 20l tank has probably cost me around 90 as well due to using stain graded poplar


They are simpson strong tie brackets. 

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

They make a 2x4 and 4s4 version. 

Since I used 8 in mine, x 6.50, it adds up.


----------



## reybie

Ouch, that does get expensive, more than the cost of my tank. Hmmm.


----------



## shrimpNewbie

wow i love this tank and stand, is that a standard 65g with the rim taken off? and painted of course, do you plan on bracing it in any way? i want that tank !


----------



## hydrophyte

Yep that's just an Aqueon 65 with the top rim removed. I wouldn't fill it up any more than 1/2-way like that.


----------



## jreefer

Those rigid strong ties are cheap on Lowes.com right now. Go to their website and search item code 96662. they are model number rtc42's and are selling for 1.47 each. I found them at my local lowes store for $5.90 a piece but they price matched there advertised online price. good look and good looking stand. i am guilty of copy cating....thx


----------



## hydrophyte

That's a good tip. Yes I remember they were $5+ each when I got them at Home Depot.


----------



## reybie

Hmm price went back to $4.66


----------



## fishtank01

Hydro-

Sick, absolutely sick. This stand is beautiful! ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. SICK! I wish I could tell you this in person - I feel like I just watched a million meteors zoom past my eyes - I'm in awe. You're artistic style is incredible.

I have a client who wants a stand build for his saltwater store. I'm going to try this. Thank you for the inspiration!


----------



## hydrophyte

fishtank01 said:


> Hydro-
> 
> Sick, absolutely sick. This stand is beautiful! ABSOLUTELY AMAZING. SICK! I wish I could tell you this in person - I feel like I just watched a million meteors zoom past my eyes - I'm in awe. You're artistic style is incredible.
> 
> I have a client who wants a stand build for his saltwater store. I'm going to try this. Thank you for the inspiration!


Thanks actually I am not much of an artist or designer at all I was just another middle-age suburban dork wandering around Home Depot when I ran into those framing connectors.

If you use this kind of design with a saltwater setup you'll just want to keep an eye on that galvanized. It should be OK but probably best to seep salt off of it as much as you can.


----------



## jreefer

Here is a copy half way through.


----------



## mach_six

jreefer said:


> View attachment 35423
> 
> 
> Here is a copy half way through.


Nice, what is that a 40B? How did everything cost you?


----------



## OverStocked

I am going to build another of these stands and am having a hard time deciding. It is for 75 gallon tank, 48 inches long. Using 2x4 horizontals and 4x4 verticals with the strong ties...

I think and feel as though I will be perfectly safe with just the 4 vertical posts, built just like the OP. I'd tie the front and back of the horizontals peaces together right at the middle.


----------



## OverStocked




----------



## DogFish

"just another middle-age suburban dork wandering around Home Depot "

+1

I'm in there so much employees are asking me where stuff is. Didn't work on my house remodel over the weekend, HD store mgr. calls my house to be sure I was o.k. :icon_bigg


----------



## iKine

I just built one of these yesterday! lol


Im going to be sealing this week, ill post pictures.


----------



## OverStocked

well I'm going to move it over to the new stand tonight. Everyone ok with 75 on 4 uprights with no center brace? Hmmm.... It FEELS solid. But I have my reservations.


----------



## jreefer

*Progress*

Almost finished. Can't seem to find the time to move along as quickly as i want. Oh well...Liking the look enough to justify the wait. thx everyone and especially the original posting member.:eek5: CAN'T STAY AWAKE!!!


----------



## Nomadic1

Very nice design!


----------



## BDoss1985

Went and bought me a sliding miter saw with a 12in blade... and im ready to go... one catch lol my local lowes and home depot dont carry those brackets so I had to order and now wait >.<, Gonna be an awesome looking stand on my 40b turtle tank. then maybe my other stands will be replaced too I hate these metal stands anyway. They are 4.35 at connectorsonly.com. Im guessing lowes DC'd them, only the 24's still in the online catalog.


----------



## joseZ

how much did i cost to build it


----------



## DogFish

jreefer said:


> Almost finished. Can't seem to find the time to move along as quickly as i want. Oh well...Liking the look enough to justify the wait. thx everyone and especially the original posting member.:eek5: CAN'T STAY AWAKE!!!


Did you /can you turn that 10gl so the side is facing forward and place it on one side of the stand. I think it would look a lot better like that. It just doesn't seem right, placed in the middel under the 40gl.

If that's a fire ext. recycled into a CO2 tank...Brillant!


----------



## galabar

That looks very nice. My only concern is that it doesn't seem that you've notched the connections at all. You are relying only on the connectors to support the downward force on the stand. I'm not a wood worker (I just make boxes to put fish tanks on  ), but that seems like something I always see in build examples (some sort of notching to support downward force).


----------



## Nubster

The downward force is supported by the 4x4 legs which is major overkill (not a bad thing) in itself. That tank could be safely supported by 2x3 lumber. That tank isn't going anywhere.


----------



## OverStocked

galabar said:


> That looks very nice. My only concern is that it doesn't seem that you've notched the connections at all. You are relying only on the connectors to support the downward force on the stand. I'm not a wood worker (I just make boxes to put fish tanks on  ), but that seems like something I always see in build examples (some sort of notching to support downward force).


There is no need for notching. These brackets hold more than we'd need every day all day. Considering the number of structural screws in each bracket... yeah. I would comfortably park my car on my stand.


----------



## galabar

He mentioned that the wood was soft. Wouldn't the following joint be better:










The same brackets could still be used, but the stand would be significantly stronger. It would no longer be relying on screws in soft wood to handle the weight of the tank.


----------



## galabar

Here are a few articles on the subject (the first one notes *"For the heavy duty table with a shelf, all corners must be notched to allow the 2x4 legs to pass through"*):

http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-PROJECT08.pdf
http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/c-diy05/c-diy05.pdf
http://www.apexhomeinspections.biz/articles/framing guidelines.pdf
http://www.raisedfloorlivingpro.com/floorframing.shtml

From what I'm reading, it looks like these connectors are not supposed to take the place of physical wood connections (the notches), but rather, they are meant to hold those strong wood connections together.

Interestingly, I think the notched connection in the image in the previous post might actually look a little better with the connectors. You might actually get the appearance that there is just one piece of wood (the connectors might cover the entire joint).

Anyone, I figured I'd just through this info out there. If past history is any guide, I don't think many will even consider it.


----------



## OverStocked

Having literally dropped one of these down 10 steps and watched it tumble, I have no doubts to their structural integrity. 

People who DIY most stands greatly over complicate things. My spa is held up by less structure. And it is to code. Dry it weighs almost a thousand ponds.


----------



## galabar

OverStocked said:


> Having literally dropped one of these down 10 steps and watched it tumble, I have no doubts to their structural integrity.
> 
> People who DIY most stands greatly over complicate things. My spa is held up by less structure. And it is to code. Dry it weighs almost a thousand ponds.


I don't think one of these would have a problem being dropped down stairs. It is holding the weight of a 90 gallon aquarium that I worry about. 

Anyway, from my searching, just about every use of these brackets seems to be with wood being the supporting structure. I can't seem to find many examples on Google of stand designs that don't use the wood, itself, as the weight supporting unit.

Like I said, looking at past reactions on this forum, I don't expect anyone to change their minds. However, from my searches, it seems that most people building heavy duty structures are not doing it like this.

If you really like the look without the notch, then go for it. However, given how easy it is to notch the wood, how much strength it adds to the structure, and what the "experts" are saying, you would really, really have to like the un-notched look to use it.


----------



## DogFish

galabar said:


> ....Wouldn't the following joint be better:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


I think your notched top joint will at best stenghten the top cross bean out a few inches from the legs. It doesn't add any thing to the middle that isn't there in the OPs design. Having built patio decks, I feel that stand could be done with just the 4x4s legs and a sheet of 3/4" plywood as a top _WITHOUT_ cross beams. 4x4s are very strong it's the narwal grain in the wood. I've been on job sites were 8x8s are supporting bases for houses on Jacks.

This design is arguably the strongest on the site. :big grin: If I ever decide to get a big tank 150g+ I'm going this route.


----------



## DogFish

After thought that stand & fire ext., really look great together. It needs a hardcore industrial style light over the tank. Maybe a matching 2x4" & black bracket frame suspended from above, old style ceramic light pull sockets with PAR38 LED bulbs hanging down. Beaded chain pull cords.


----------



## Nubster

If you think about it, how many people trust large tanks like 55g, 75g, 90g, and even larger to store bought particle board crap stands. If that junk can hold those tanks, this stand will hold my tank, your tank, and his tank all at the same time...lol


----------



## galabar

DogFish said:


> I think your notched top joint will at best stenghten the top cross bean out a few inches from the legs. It doesn't add any thing to the middle that isn't there in the OPs design. Having built patio decks, I feel that stand could be done with just the 4x4s legs and a sheet of 3/4" plywood as a top _WITHOUT_ cross beams. 4x4s are very strong it's the narwal grain in the wood. I've been on job sites were 8x8s are supporting bases for houses on Jacks.


The crossbeams support whatever weight is being put on them. The two joints on the crossbeams must share and support that total amount of weight. If either of the joints fail, the whole beam (and the stand) fails.

The notches are not about strengthening the crossbeam. Those beam are strong enough to handle just about anything that you can throw at them. The question is, will the joints hold, given that they must support the entire weight being exerted on the crossbeam.

Looking at the deck link I posted above (and the others I've seen), it looks like they are always putting something under the ends of the beams to support them. Do you build decks differently?



> This design is arguably the strongest on the site. :big grin: If I ever decide to get a big tank 150g+ I'm going this route.


Nope. The strongest design would be notched and bracketed. :biggrin:


----------



## galabar

Nubster said:


> If you think about it, how many people trust large tanks like 55g, 75g, 90g, and even larger to store bought particle board crap stands. If that junk can hold those tanks, this stand will hold my tank, your tank, and his tank all at the same time...lol


That isn't really relevant. I was just pointing out that woodworkers, at least those that are publishing their information and the manufacturers of those brackets seem to be telling us to have wood support wood rather than having brackets support wood alone.

Looking at the stand in question, I would put money on it being able to handle a large tank. Also, it looks very nice.

The stand should be fine. However, again, the question is, "What is the correct joint for a heavy duty stand?" From the data, it looks like the notched joint is the correct choice (strengthened by brackets, if you wish).


----------



## galabar

Here is another example:

http://www.arbreptiles.com/cages/75g_stand/index.shtml

Very similar, and it could use the brackets mentioned, but it starts with the very strong notched 4x4 frame with 2x4 sides.


----------



## Bandit1200

In my opinion, the entire stand would be capable of safely bearing the weight of the aquarium if it was composed of nothing BUT the 4x4s in the corners. All the cross-members are basically for is to ensure that the 4x4s stay where they need to be to do that.


----------



## galabar

Bandit1200 said:


> In my opinion, the entire stand would be capable of safely bearing the weight of the aquarium if it was composed of nothing BUT the 4x4s in the corners. All the cross-members are basically for is to ensure that the 4x4s stay where they need to be to do that.


They could certainly hold the weight of pretty much any size tank. However, the *sides* of the *tank*, themselves, must be supported.

Imagine what would happen if you placed a tank only on 4 4x4s (assuming that they are held solidly in position). The tank would crack and buckles. The *tank* needs the crossbeams for support. If the crossbeams move down, just a little bit, the tank will probably crack.

Now, again, I'm not saying that this will happen. I think the stand in the original picture is adequate to hold the tank mentioned. However, it is better to have wood to wood support for the crossbeams rather than just the screws in the 4x4s (1/2 of them since the other 1/2 supports the other crossbeam).

So, again, I think the design is adequate, but it would be much stronger and more bullet proof with a correct joint.


----------



## OverStocked

Actually aquariums place almost all of their weight through there corners. An engineer went on a tangent on mfk about it. 


Again. Having used more than one of these I have zero fears. Certainly stronger than any store bought stand I've owned.


----------



## Secretninja

galabar said:


> Here are a few articles on the subject (the first one notes *"For the heavy duty table with a shelf, all corners must be notched to allow the 2x4 legs to pass through"*):
> 
> http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/fliers/DIY-PROJECT08.pdf
> http://www.strongtie.com/ftp/catalogs/c-diy05/c-diy05.pdf
> http://www.apexhomeinspections.biz/articles/framing guidelines.pdf
> http://www.raisedfloorlivingpro.com/floorframing.shtml
> 
> From what I'm reading, it looks like these connectors are not supposed to take the place of physical wood connections (the notches), but rather, they are meant to hold those strong wood connections together.
> 
> Interestingly, I think the notched connection in the image in the previous post might actually look a little better with the connectors. You might actually get the appearance that there is just one piece of wood (the connectors might cover the entire joint).
> 
> Anyone, I figured I'd just through this info out there. If past history is any guide, I don't think many will even consider it.


These are designed to hold up decks. If anything, notching the wood like you have indicated would reduce the effectiveness of those ties. The load would then be supported by the notched wood, which is not as strong as these. All of that is irrelevant though, since the 4x are actually supporting the whole tank, unless you are using a rimless tank. 

The line where it says that the shelves must be notched to allow 2x4 to pass through means just that. It doesn't say to notch the support or the crossbeam, it says to notch the plywood shelf sitting on them.


----------



## OverStocked

Secretninja said:


> These are designed to hold up decks. If anything, notching the wood like you have indicated would reduce the effectiveness of those ties. The load would then be supported by the notched wood, which is not as strong as these. All of that is irrelevant though, since the 4x are actually supporting the whole tank, unless you are using a rimless tank.
> 
> *The line where it says that the shelves must be notched to allow 2x4 to pass through means just that. It doesn't say to notch the support or the crossbeam, it says to notch the plywood shelf sitting on them.*


LOL. You know I read the whole thing and I didn't get that, but you say it now and it clearly says "with a SHELF". As in the plywood shelf shelf needs to be notched so that it doesn't cut into the 2x4 or 4x4. 

They are not suggesting notching the 2x4 or 4x4 to "joint" them. These are structural brackets and are designed to be used as we are using them.


----------



## Secretninja

Also, thanks for those links. This thread along with the simpson pdf gave me an idea for a desk I might make. I love the look of the stands, and the table with no front would work great as a hobby/computer desk. I think painting the braces black and doing a dark dark gray diy concrete countertop would look sick. 

I was contemplating doing one of these stands with plywood on the side compartments while leaving the front empty for a 40b my brother is planning, but the connectors are just too expensive to justify putting them on a small span like that. I am going to lowes tomorrow to pick up some corner beads and mud, and will probably look for cheap brass plates to give a similar look, or some much cheaper braces that will only hold the crossbeams in place. After all, 4xs in the corners are more than enough, the ties just need to hold the 8 crossbeams rigid so the stand doesn't flex.


----------



## galabar

Secretninja said:


> These are designed to hold up decks. If anything, notching the wood like you have indicated would reduce the effectiveness of those ties. The load would then be supported by the notched wood, which is not as strong as these. All of that is irrelevant though, since the 4x are actually supporting the whole tank, unless you are using a rimless tank.
> 
> The line where it says that the shelves must be notched to allow 2x4 to pass through means just that. It doesn't say to notch the support or the crossbeam, it says to notch the plywood shelf sitting on them.


Oops, I didn't read closely enough there. You are right about the plywood shelves.

However, I have to disagree with you about the strength of the joint. However, unfortunately, I have nothing to test it with. Any suggestions?


----------



## galabar

Hmm, maybe if I construct an example box with one side using just connectors and the other using just wood-on-wood and have a jack of some sort that compress the stand together near the joint. I could see which would fail first. Would a car jack work? Unfortunately, it seems to be better at pushing than pulling.


----------



## OverStocked

Without something indicating the actual weight put on each type of joint, the test would be worthless. 

However the real issue here is that these brackets do NOT require the use of any special joints and are designed to be used as we are using them and are perfectly safe for use like this.


----------



## galabar

OverStocked said:


> Without something indicating the actual weight put on each type of joint, the test would be worthless.
> 
> However the real issue here is that these brackets do NOT require the use of any special joints and are designed to be used as we are using them and are perfectly safe for use like this.


The amount of weight is unimportant. I'm just trying to answer the question of which joint is stronger. Like I said previously, I think the stand in the OP is adequate for supporting the tank mentioned.


----------



## OverStocked

But you can't tell which one is stronger unless you know the weight that was subjected against them to failure point.... If you just put them between a wall and a jack and pump on it you have absolutely no idea of the differences between forces on each joint.... so the test would be completely worthless. 

Again, I use this stand on a 75g tank with a 30g on the shelf and have no issues with it at all. I'd be comfortable with up to 5 foot tanks no problem, and add a center brace and 6 foot tanks would be no issue at all. 

I think it is great you're so concerned with everyone's safety on all of these issues, but I do not think there is any reason for anyone to be concerned with these stands. We're using the brackets AS DESIGNED and as long as you aren't using drywall screws you're going to be A-OK. 

Perhaps you should build a box using 4x4's and 2x4's and these brackets and you'll see how strong they really are. These are exponentially stronger than any store bought stand.


----------



## galabar

OverStocked said:


> But you can't tell which one is stronger unless you know the weight that was subjected against them to failure point.... If you just put them between a wall and a jack and pump on it you have absolutely no idea of the differences between forces on each joint.... so the test would be completely worthless.
> 
> Again, I use this stand on a 75g tank with a 30g on the shelf and have no issues with it at all. I'd be comfortable with up to 5 foot tanks no problem, and add a center brace and 6 foot tanks would be no issue at all.
> 
> I think it is great you're so concerned with everyone's safety on all of these issues, but I do not think there is any reason for anyone to be concerned with these stands. We're using the brackets AS DESIGNED and as long as you aren't using drywall screws you're going to be A-OK.
> 
> Perhaps you should build a box using 4x4's and 2x4's and these brackets and you'll see how strong they really are. These are exponentially stronger than any store bought stand.


I would not put them against a wall. I would connect the jack to each joint and pull them together. The weaker joint would fail first.


----------



## OverStocked

I doubt you have a jack that could rip apart two strong tie joined joints.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

Strongties are great. I built the bench in the plans a while ago. And for a normal bench it's fine. The bench I built using the correct wood joinery however (using half lap and lags) is infinitely more stable and resists racking forces better than the one with strongties. My bench is 12' long and holds my radial arm saw. It is rock steady. I can literally throw up a 4x8 sheet of plywood with no movement. There are no 4 x 4 legs at all yet I'd be confident loading it up with a tank. If I could find one 12' x 2.5' x whatever height. Correct joinery plus correct design gives you a solid bench. Or stand. Or cabinet.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

OverStocked said:


> I doubt you have a jack that could rip apart two strong tie joined joints.


The jack will rip apart the area where it's nailed. With the correct position of the jack you can bend the hell out of the metal though.


----------



## galabar

OverStocked said:


> I doubt you have a jack that could rip apart two strong tie joined joints.


That was my initial thought. I'm not sure I could put enough pressure/weight on either joint to break it. Cars only weight a few thousand pounds and not all of that weight gets put on the jack.


----------



## galabar

GraphicGr8s said:


> The jack will rip apart the area where it's nailed. With the correct position of the jack you can bend the hell out of the metal though.


I was thinking of putting some scrap wood between the whatever was pulling and the wood for the joints so that I would be stressing the actual joints rather than just tearing through the wood.

However, the question is, can I apply enough pressure. If I get bored, I might try it.


----------



## Secretninja

According to the fact sheet with a 4x4 post and a 2x joist, these can support 650lb for 10 years, and 90% of that weight after that. That is with douglas fir, which has similar strength to cedar. That is with an 8ft span. So building code says these can support 650 lbs.

Since aquariums put most of their weight on the corners, and a 4x4 post can support, conservatively, 4000 pounds I do not think any tests are needed to test the reliability of this product.


----------



## hydrophyte

What is I want to put a really, really tall aquarium on it?


----------



## galabar

Secretninja said:


> According to the fact sheet with a 4x4 post and a 2x joist, these can support 650lb for 10 years, and 90% of that weight after that. That is with douglas fir, which has similar strength to cedar. That is with an 8ft span. So building code says these can support 650 lbs.
> 
> Since aquariums put most of their weight on the corners, and a 4x4 post can support, conservatively, 4000 pounds I do not think any tests are needed to test the reliability of this product.


So, you wouldn't want to put a tank on them that doesn't span the entire stand. They don't really hold up "tank weight," but that seems Ok, if you have a glass tank and, as has been claimed, most of the force is applied to the corners of the stand.

In any event, my interest was in what was the strongest joint. I never claimed that the stand would fail. My thought is, if the notched joint is significantly stronger, why not use it (even if you are using the connectors). If the connectors only support 650 lbs, it definitely seems that the notched joint is stronger (I can't imagine it being that weak), so I don't think we need testing.


----------



## hydrophyte

I'm putting together another one of these. This time I am painting the boards. I decided to use a paint with color close to raw sienna.


----------



## hydrophyte

Here's an example of one of these stands painted...










I worried this barn red color would clash with the purple wall paint, but it actually looks pretty good.


----------



## BS87

Sorry to bump, but:
A) Love, love these stands. Excellent inspiration. Going to build one for my future 40B 

I was wondering, however, what you guys would think about using the 90* corner brackets (For example, these, with obviously 2x on each corner. I was thinking about these because I'm planning on covering at least the back and possibly the sides with plywood anyway. Thoughts? Just go for the heavy-duty corner ties? I might try these on a small 10G stand I need to make for the wife's shrimp tank.

I will probably do 4x4 legs as you have done, but since a lot of DIY stands have 2x4 legs, i would assume 2x4's should be adequate for legs (probably for a 40Gal and under.. 55-75Gal not so much?).
Also, for those planning to do this, a "cheaper" way to buy the 8x corner braces would be to purchase their DIY workbench kit, which contains the 8 brackets and ~200 screws for 40$ (less than the cost of 8 brackets alone). Just a thought.

P.S. sorry for all the home depot links, just pasting what came up first upon googling part #s


----------



## wastedtime

That is a cool looking stand, I like the the simplicity of it.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

BS87 said:


> Sorry to bump, but:
> A) Love, love these stands. Excellent inspiration. Going to build one for my future 40B
> 
> I was wondering, however, what you guys would think about using the 90* corner brackets (For example, these, with obviously 2x on each corner. I was thinking about these because I'm planning on covering at least the back and possibly the sides with plywood anyway. Thoughts? Just go for the heavy-duty corner ties? I might try these on a small 10G stand I need to make for the wife's shrimp tank.
> 
> I will probably do 4x4 legs as you have done, but since a lot of DIY stands have 2x4 legs, i would assume 2x4's should be adequate for legs (probably for a 40Gal and under.. 55-75Gal not so much?).
> Also, for those planning to do this, a "cheaper" way to buy the 8x corner braces would be to purchase their DIY workbench kit, which contains the 8 brackets and ~200 screws for 40$ (less than the cost of 8 brackets alone). Just a thought.
> 
> P.S. sorry for all the home depot links, just pasting what came up first upon googling part #s


2 x 4s legs are fine up to at least a 90 gallon. People use 4x4s either because they don't really know how to build solidly or because it makes it easier to cut the lap joints for the horizontal members.


----------



## Hoppy

GraphicGr8s said:


> 2 x 4s legs are fine up to at least a 90 gallon. People use 4x4s either because they don't really know how to build solidly or because it makes it easier to cut the lap joints for the horizontal members.


Or, if they are visible design elements, because 4 x 4 legs usually look better.


----------



## daffyfish

Hmmm... Thinking this might work perfect for the 56 column, I just picked up.
Thanksroud:


----------



## OverStocked

We're moving in a few weeks and think I might take apart my current 75 stand and paint it like hydro did above. Will report back if it works out.


----------



## Ridewithme38

GraphicGr8s said:


> 2 x 4s legs are fine up to at least a 90 gallon. People use 4x4s either because they don't really know how to build solidly or because it makes it easier to cut the lap joints for the horizontal members.


Wait?? now i have to know what lap joints are to build an Aquarium stand? :icon_surp

I love this stand, but i'm going to try to use all 4x4 construction...i just prefer the look of 4x4s to the look of 2x4's...I was originally just going to use L brackets, but these, while also being better looking, seem much more secure


----------



## BS87

Just about to finish mine this weekend. Wood is stained, looks really nice. Only thing I can't decide is if i want to put some time of clear coat on, or leave it bare stain.

http://onebit.us/x/u/BS87/55ec64904d.jpg

*removed img tags because wow, that was a large picture. sorry.


----------



## [email protected]

Either oil seal it or use polyurethane. I really like Minwax Oil. 
Several years from now you'll be unhappy about the odd stains from not sealing it.


----------



## BS87

Well, the stain I used was an "outdoor" stain, composed of oils (linseed, tung and another, if i recall). It's not intended for indoor use but I've seen it used before with no problems, I'll try to look up if i needs a seal coat or not.


----------



## BS87

So I poly'ed the wood, and assembled the stand today. It's came out closer to level & square than I thought it would! My only concern is this: Even though I based the dimensions of the stand on the bottom trim, and built it to have an extra 1/4" on each side, the trim comes right up to the edge of the wood in certain places. There is maybe 1mm of clearance between the trim and edge of the wood. There is no overhang, however. Also, there is about a 1/8" gap between the trim and all of the 2x4 cross pieces, which I understand is "alright" as the tank is designed to put all it's weight in the corners. 

However, would it be a good idea to cut a flat top out of plywood, so that the rim is 100% touching wood, and if cut a wee bit larger, there is more wood between the edge of the rim and edge of the wood? IE cut a flat top, have an extra 1/2" on all sides, but obviously still center the tank so the edges rest over the 4x4s?


----------



## hydrophyte

BS87 said:


> So I poly'ed the wood, and assembled the stand today. It's came out closer to level & square than I thought it would! My only concern is this: Even though I based the dimensions of the stand on the bottom trim, and built it to have an extra 1/4" on each side, the trim comes right up to the edge of the wood in certain places. There is maybe 1mm of clearance between the trim and edge of the wood. There is no overhang, however. Also, there is about a 1/8" gap between the trim and all of the 2x4 cross pieces, which I understand is "alright" as the tank is designed to put all it's weight in the corners.
> 
> However, would it be a good idea to cut a flat top out of plywood, so that the rim is 100% touching wood, and if cut a wee bit larger, there is more wood between the edge of the rim and edge of the wood? IE cut a flat top, have an extra 1/2" on all sides, but obviously still center the tank so the edges rest over the 4x4s?


How big is the tank? When I have made these stands I have not used a plywood top and I have instead just leveled out the top edges so that the aquarium frame is supported almost everywhere by both the 2X4's and the corner posts; in my opinion this looks better than a plywood top. However, if you have a large tank it might not be good to trust support only in the corners and it is probably better to use a plywood top.


----------



## BS87

40 Breeder, so 36x18 footprint like your 65g.


----------



## hydrophyte

Yeah I think that I would either try to level out the top or put a plywood board on there. 

With an 1/8" gap the plywood will probably bow too. What about taking that much off the top of each corner post?


----------



## BS87

Oh, the stand is level. I'm not worried about leveling. I'm worried because there is little to no room between the edge of the trim and the _side_ of the wood. IE i wanted it to be 1/4" wider on either side of the tank, but that extra wiggle room isn't there. The tank rests on the wood with no overhang, but I wanted a bit of room left on either side.


----------



## hydrophyte

When I have built these stands I left only a hair of extra width all the way around. I think it looks better with the trim nearly flush with the edges of the stand.


----------



## BS87

That was my main concern. The trim is on the wood and supported, but in some areas certainly "flush". I still may consider the plywood top due to the 1/8" gap between the trim and 2x4s though.


----------



## AnotherHobby

I just wanted to drop in and give some thanks to hydrophyte for coming up with a really cool idea for a stand, and for sharing it with the rest of us. After seeing your idea, I knew I wanted something based off it for my aquarium stand.

Right now I just have a small 12 gallon Fluval Edge, but I my plan is to slowly piece together a 29 gallon rimless tank. I thought it would be cool if I could design it to handle my Edge for now, and then the 29 when I'm ready. I also wanted to be able to hide my stuff since I plan on running CO2 and need a place to put my test kits, fish food, ferts, and the rest of the crap that I've accumulated.

Here is what I came up with after many hours in sketchup for what I want in the end with the 29 gallon rimless. It's 25" tall, 32" long, and 14" deep (there will be a 1" lip with the 29 gallon):










In the mean time, all I had to do to adapt it for the edge was add a top, which was all of $9 worth of 1x3 cedar. Here is how it will will look with my Edge until I get the rest put together:










This is my progress as of tonight. The stain is Minwax Red Chestnut, and I painted the brackets black. I am planning on painting the screws black as well, although they look kind of cool, so now I'm not 100% on that. Here is a pic of it without the top, so you can see how I reinforced under it. With the Edge, the weight won't be supported the outside edges, so I needed more support underneath the top.










As for the top, it's simply 6 1x3's glued together such that it overlaps the stand by 1" on the sides and front:










Put together, it looks like this:










What I have left at this point is just to cut the lower shelf and finish it, and then to build the doors and sides. I haven't started that yet because I wanted to get the frame together first so I could get more precise measurements. Google sketchup worked great for building it virtuall first and making my actual material list, but for the tighter tolerances I wanted it in front of me first. 

So far I love it!


----------



## monty67

I really like that, nice work! Love that color stain.


----------



## Hoppy

Those are some very nice looking design variations! I really like the door appearance. Since much of the attractiveness of Hydrophyte's original design is the proportions, any similar stand with those proportions is going to look good. But,, with this design, you have the whole package, in my opinion.


----------



## Assassynation

Great work man! I may never buy a production stand again.


----------



## driftwoodhunter

Very nice ideas here...


----------



## sdylanh

(I apologize if I'm hijacking the the thread, but...)

AnotherHobby,

Could you share how you have/plan to do the light fixtures for your design? I've been in the planning stages of doing a similar setup with three individual fixtures on a 55 gallon, but I'm clueless when it comes to working with metal. It looks simple enough, but not sure what all goes into it.

Any details especially where you bought the parts and what you used would be appreciated!


----------



## bibbster

Anotherhobby, I love the unpainted fasteners on the black brackets/ties.

That looks great, especially with the 4x4 legs...adds to that massive look. Kind of like medieval construction.


----------



## AnotherHobby

sdylanh said:


> (I apologize if I'm hijacking the the thread, but...)
> 
> AnotherHobby,
> 
> Could you share how you have/plan to do the light fixtures for your design? I've been in the planning stages of doing a similar setup with three individual fixtures on a 55 gallon, but I'm clueless when it comes to working with metal. It looks simple enough, but not sure what all goes into it.
> 
> Any details especially where you bought the parts and what you used would be appreciated!


Sure. The plan right now for the poles is to use 1/2" metal conduit, and then I'll spray paint it black. It's strong, light, cheap, and easy to work with. Our building maintenance guy at work has a bender, so I'll just have him bend it for me, but you could buy/rent one from Home Depot or wherever. I'm just going to use 1/2" pipe straps to attach it to the back of the stand. 

For the bulbs, I'm doing PAR38 LEDs. There are many out there, but here is one option I was thinking about: Dimmable, 15w, 6500k, 60° spread. That is just one example, but it's the brightness I want, is dimmable, and has a 60° beam spread (they have a 90° also). I rendered the light spread of two 60° bulbs placed 20" above the bottom of the tank and 14" apart. Coverage is pretty good, and I can adjust brightness with a dimmer. According to the image in the LED Lighting Compendium thread for the WingoLED PAR38 Bulb (which is of identical specs), it should be plenty of light.










There are a lot of bulb options, so I haven't made up my mind yet. It'll be around the specs of the above lights though. For the lights fixtures themselves, I'm not sure 100% yet, but I have a few ides — I'll probably DIY as well. One idea is just using a 6-8" section of 6" PVC pipe painted black. Maybe an upside down cheap metal mixing bowl. I'm not sure on that one yet, but actual "pendant lights" for sale can get pricy quick. I think I can make something quite attractive for cheap, but it might take some trial/error.



bibbster said:


> Anotherhobby, I love the unpainted fasteners on the black brackets/ties.
> 
> That looks great, especially with the 4x4 legs...adds to that massive look. Kind of like medieval construction.


Thanks! I ended up painting the fasteners though. I moved the stand into place last night and put my 12 gallon on it for now. I don't expect to really finish it off with everything until spring. Can't really stain/poly in my house and it's winter now in MN.

Here it is with the screws painted:










Here is where it goes (in the middle of aquascaping that tank right now).










For the doors and sides I'm just going to make small curtains from black cloth. I can hang them in the openings. That'll let me hide stuff until I make the real sides and doors when it warms back up in the spring.

That's the awesome thing about hydrophyte's idea — it's very easy to customize to however you want it!


----------



## lochaber

AnotherHobby said:


> I don't expect to really finish it off with everything until spring. Can't really stain/poly in my house and it's winter now in MN.


If you aren't set on using poly, you could try shellac. It's alcohol based, so it dries quickly with very little fumes. 

I'm using it right now to finish my 40B stand, and I'm building it in a studio apartment.

The Shellac seems to be fairly easy to use, and somewhat forgiving. And from what I've read, it should be easy to repair any scratches/issues later on.


----------



## sdylanh

AnotherHobby,

I've read about conduit pipe as well, and might try to go that route.

One idea I've had for the fixtures is simply taking a clamp light from Home Depot and remove the clamp. I would then likely cover the actual housing with something a little more attractive, like a cheap mixing bowl drilled and painted as you mentioned. The clamp lights are about $8 dollars and are already wired.

Hoping to start on this around Christmas and be done sometime mid-late January. I'll post pics when available.

Interested to see the outcome of yours, love your idea and I plan on pirating much of your design for my own stand!


----------



## AnotherHobby

sdylanh said:


> Hoping to start on this around Christmas and be done sometime mid-late January. I'll post pics when available.
> 
> Interested to see the outcome of yours, love your idea and I plan on pirating much of your design for my own stand!


To make planning/customizing easier for anybody interested in using Sketchup, I've uploaded the model I made to their database. Sketchup is a free download, but there is a bit of a learning curve to it. Once you have it, just go to 3D Warehouse and Get Models. Then search for 29 Gallon Aquarium Stand. It should be in there now.


----------



## bibbster

It looks just as nice with the fasteners painted black. Great job!


----------



## golfer_d

These stands are awesome!

I am going to have to give this a try....I like the idea of being able to set the tank on it (I have a 10g) and a plant or something to the side.


----------



## hydrophyte

I'm building another one of these for my 65G.

This time I am using the Strong-Ties that hold the vertical 2 X 4s, instead of 4 X 4s. I'm going to _paint_ the boards a nice color like dark sap green or purple or something like that.


----------



## golfer_d

How is the most recent build going?


----------



## GraphicGr8s

lochaber said:


> If you aren't set on using poly, you could try shellac. It's alcohol based, so it dries quickly with very little fumes.
> 
> I'm using it right now to finish my 40B stand, and I'm building it in a studio apartment.
> 
> The Shellac seems to be fairly easy to use, and somewhat forgiving. And from what I've read, it should be easy to repair any scratches/issues later on.


Shellac (poop from the lac bug mixed with denatured alcohol and is safe enough to be used as a coating on medicines) is prone to water stains. Shellac is great to use as a barrier between different types of finishes. You could use water based poly over an oil stain. Use shellac over a water based stain to keep a waterbased poly from lifting the water based stain/dye. It's a neutral sealer. WB is low odor. I'm using miniwax (I hate minwax products) gunstock oil base and that stuff is odoriferous. Have to stain outside for sure even then it still smells up the garage until I get WB poly over it.


----------



## golfer_d

I am wanting to build a stand like this but the local Home Depot does not carry the connectors for the 4 x 4 just the 2 x 4 corner connector. I could order the bench making kit online to get the 4 x 4 connectors but with shipping etc to Canada it would be around $75.

I have a 10 gallon tank (standard starter) that I want to place on it at one end and then possibly a smaller shrimp bowl at the other end (total length of the stand about 32" and a depth of about 12 to 14"). This idea kind of defeats the purpose of the weight being focused on the corner beams so I am not sure if I should do that or just stick with the dimensions of the tank for size.

I notice AnotherHobby used braces in the middle along with a top piece for a 12 gallon so would I be able to do something similar even though I would only be using say 2 x 4 as my corner posts? Seems all the weight would then be on the top and the middle brackets? I am not sure how weight gets deflected down which is why I am asking.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## AnotherHobby

golfer_d said:


> I am wanting to build a stand like this but the local Home Depot does not carry the connectors for the 4 x 4 just the 2 x 4 corner connector. I could order the bench making kit online to get the 4 x 4 connectors but with shipping etc to Canada it would be around $75.
> 
> I have a 10 gallon tank (standard starter) that I want to place on it at one end and then possibly a smaller shrimp bowl at the other end (total length of the stand about 32" and a depth of about 12 to 14"). This idea kind of defeats the purpose of the weight being focused on the corner beams so I am not sure if I should do that or just stick with the dimensions of the tank for size.
> 
> I notice AnotherHobby used braces in the middle along with a top piece for a 12 gallon so would I be able to do something similar even though I would only be using say 2 x 4 as my corner posts? Seems all the weight would then be on the top and the middle brackets? I am not sure how weight gets deflected down which is why I am asking.
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


If you want the 4x4 connectors (which look way better IMHO), I bet your local Home Depot can special order the part for you. They can almost always do that — just go to their special order service desk.

Also, weight will not be an issue with a 10 gallon however you do it. The top I made with the cross beams under is is incredibly strong, and 2x4 legs would be no problem — 100 pounds is nothing to it.

Regarding size, 14" depth is the absolute minimum you can make this stand because of the size of the brackets. Look at my pictures and you'll see the brackets are about 1/16" from touching. That's with 14" depth.


----------



## golfer_d

AnotherHobby said:


> If you want the 4x4 connectors (which look way better IMHO), I bet your local Home Depot can special order the part for you. They can almost always do that — just go to their special order service desk.
> 
> Also, weight will not be an issue with a 10 gallon however you do it. The top I made with the cross beams under is is incredibly strong, and 2x4 legs would be no problem — 100 pounds is nothing to it.
> 
> Regarding size, 14" depth is the absolute minimum you can make this stand because of the size of the brackets. Look at my pictures and you'll see the brackets are about 1/16" from touching. That's with 14" depth.


Thanks mate! I agree that the 4x4 look will be much better than the 2x4 but I was curious how the other would turn out. The price seems to be the same for the bracket part but the 4x4 would be more expensive than the 2x4 but I think the look is best. I just need to find a cheaper 4x4 as I plan to paint the stand black so no sense spending more on a nice grained wood (western red cedar) if I am not staining it. I am new to all of this though so I am not even sure if I can find a cheaper 4x4!??

For some reason I am always worried that the stand won't be able to hold a 10 gallon tank. I shouldn't be when I see how cheaply made a lot of the LFS stands are and what they hold.


----------



## Droyer

Just got a 75 gallon and need to get/build a stand. Using this stand design would it be able to support a 75 gallon?


----------



## AnotherHobby

Droyer said:


> Just got a 75 gallon and need to get/build a stand. Using this stand design would it be able to support a 75 gallon?


Yes. I think it could easily support my VW.


----------



## Droyer

AnotherHobby said:


> Yes. I think it could easily support my VW.


Thank you! Now its time to hit up a hardware store


----------



## golfer_d

hydrophyte said:


> I'm building another one of these for my 65G.
> 
> This time I am using the Strong-Ties that hold the vertical 2 X 4s, instead of 4 X 4s. I'm going to _paint_ the boards a nice color like dark sap green or purple or something like that.


I am curious how this turned out. Hope you can post some photos if you have it completed!


----------



## hydrophyte

Here's a lighting solution that should look good with this kind of stand. I have a quick description of how I put it together over in my Mr. Aqua 11.4 journal... http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=199656&page=3


----------



## sdylanh

I can post more detail later, but I wanted to throw in some pics of my mostly finished stand for my 55g very obviously inspired by this thread. I'll be happy to answer any questions about the process.


----------



## sdylanh

Finally figured out how to make the pictures work...


----------



## AnotherHobby

Cool! Interesting take on it. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do doors or a curtain down below on mine, but the doors look good. I like how you did the lights too.

I recently made an integrated support for my CO2 cylinder. It supports the tank and keeps it from falling over, and it lowers it down so I can see the gauges easier.


----------



## golfer_d

Has anyone done this type of build with the 2x4's as the legs instead of 4x4 (and has photos to show what it looks like)?

I am curious as I can't find the connectors in the 4x4 dimension and well 2x4's are cheaper than 4x4's (I plan to paint the stand black so spending extra on nice 4x4's for staining is pointless).


----------



## AnotherHobby

I don't think that 2x4 will look anywhere near as good. You mentioned above that your HD caries the 2x4 connectors, which means they can get Simpson connectors easily. You could just go to the service desk and ask them to order them for you. It should be no problem for them.


----------



## golfer_d

I agree that it might not look as good with the 2x4 but hydrophyte said his looked alright but didn't have any photos.

Was just curious and I am thinking it might be overkill and expensive for just a 10 gallon tank.


----------



## golfer_d

I may also go with a modified version of this. Not as long as she built it but I think I could fit my 10 gallon on it as well as my planted bowl. Of course I would need some cross beams under the top if my 10 gallon tank was not resting directly on corners of the stand.

http://ana-white.com/2012/05/plans/rustic-x-console


----------



## pweifan

AnotherHobby said:


> Cool! Interesting take on it. I'm still not sure if I'm going to do doors or a curtain down below on mine, but the doors look good. I like how you did the lights too.
> 
> I recently made an integrated support for my CO2 cylinder. It supports the tank and keeps it from falling over, and it lowers it down so I can see the gauges easier.


I really like this idea! It goes quite nicely and it's functional.


----------



## AnotherHobby

golfer_d said:


> I may also go with a modified version of this. Not as long as she built it but I think I could fit my 10 gallon on it as well as my planted bowl. Of course I would need some cross beams under the top if my 10 gallon tank was not resting directly on corners of the stand.
> 
> http://ana-white.com/2012/05/plans/rustic-x-console


I think those pics give you a pretty good idea of what it'd look like. IMHO that looks pretty darn good. :thumbsup:


----------



## golfer_d

I think my reservations are whatever I build looking crappy (first time trying something like this) and it holding the weight of the 10 gallon (without the corners being directly on the legs of the stand).


----------



## BoxxerBoyDrew

All these stands are FREAKIN' AWESOME!!!!

AnotherHobby, One of the Big Box pet stores, I think PetCo, has a "clamp light" that is Black with a white interior and has a ceramic bulb holder, and they look VERY NICE!!! They are not nearly as big around as the "shop" type clamp lights, but I believe they are 6" in diameter. I am not sure how big around those Par38 led bulbs are, but IF they would fit in the fixtures I am talking about they would look AWESOME with your stand design!!!

I will see if I can find a link and PM it to ya!

Again GREAT WORK EVERYONE!!!
Drew


----------



## AnotherHobby

BoxxerBoyDrew said:


> All these stands are FREAKIN' AWESOME!!!!
> 
> AnotherHobby, One of the Big Box pet stores, I think PetCo, has a "clamp light" that is Black with a white interior and has a ceramic bulb holder, and they look VERY NICE!!! They are not nearly as big around as the "shop" type clamp lights, but I believe they are 6" in diameter. I am not sure how big around those Par38 led bulbs are, but IF they would fit in the fixtures I am talking about they would look AWESOME with your stand design!!!


Thanks for the tip! roud:

I know the lights you are talking about. I actually have them bookmarked in case I decide to go down the PAR38 route. I don't know if they are deep enough, so I was going to check them out in person.


----------



## pweifan

I'm not picturing therse lights. Could you post a link, please?


----------



## hydrophyte

I put my mangrove riparium setup on a new one of these stands. I built it using just 2X4s and I painted the wood a barn red color, which contrasts really nicely with the galvanized. I'll try to get pictures of the whole thing soon.


----------



## Aquaticus

sdylanh said:


> Finally figured out how to make the pictures work...


This stand looks amazing. I love Hydrophyte's design, but my wife wants something enclosed. Best of both worlds!


----------



## creekbottom

This is a fantastically simple and great looking stand idea. Do you KNOW how difficult it is to find those RTC42 connectors?! None of the big box stores up here carry them, connectorsonly.com will ship for almost double the price of the product! I finally found a lumber yard that would special order them for me. Definitely the most expensive part of this build.

Does anyone have pics of this stand built with 2x4 legs. I can get those connectors anywhere, go figure...


----------



## Quick5ilver

The bottom part should have a flat surface. Very nice build but that...


----------



## AnotherHobby

I figured I'd come back here and update now that my stand is 100% complete. I'm super happy with the final result, and wanted to tank hydrophyte again for sharing such a great idea.

I originally built mine for a 30" long tank, but ended up getting a 60p sized one, so I had to shorten the stand to 24" long. I also finally built the front cover and side covers using 1x2 cedar. All 3 covers (front, left, right) are attached with magnets (the standard cupboard door kind). They simply click into place and remove super easy. It gives me fast and easy full access to everything on the lower shelf (CO2, filter, heater, reactor, power).

For the light hanger I bent clear acrylic tubing and ran a small chain through it. I feel it visually disappears better than metal poles would. Here is the full final product:










Close up with the panels in place:










Front and side panels pop right off:










Close up of my acrylic light poles:


----------



## Aquaticus

Very, very nice!


----------



## GreenBliss

Awesome, AnotherHobby. Looks great.


----------



## Mostlydave

That stand is amazing AnotherHobby! 

do you think it would be possible to build this using a kreg jig intead of the brackets? 

The 2x4s and 4x4 would be screwed to each other and glued and then the whole stand could be screwed and glued to the 3/4 inch peice the tank is actually sitting on.

I think it would look great assemled without the brackets and with no visible screws


----------



## anwin8D

Wow that looks awesome! The acrylic poles are a very nice touch!


----------



## Hoppy

The acrylic light supports are really one of a kind, and they look great. I can see how they might be very limited in weight carrying capacity, but for the size light you have, they seem perfect. And, the "door" design is also unique, and equally good looking. Personally, I think the proportions of the stand could be better, but it is still an outstanding design.


----------



## AnotherHobby

Thanks everyone! As for using a kreg jig, I have no idea. I'm not any sort of master work worker, so that's something you'd have to look into.

Hoppy, you are spot on with regards to the weight capacity on the acrylic. I'm not sure it could even support a second finnex unit like a Monster Ray, but it might. I'd have to try it. As for any non-led unit, I don't think it'd have a chance. Also, I'm curious about your thoughts on the proportions. Are you thinking of where I chose to put the lower cross unit? I wasn't entirely happy with that after I did it, but it's done. I think it would look better higher up, but then I couldn't fit all my equipment under it. My Fluval 306 sneaks out with less than 1/4" of space.

Otherwise, the width matches the tank, the depth is as shallow as I could go with these supports (which is 2" past the tank in back), and the height is to make it perfect viewing height for my chair that sit's immediately beside it. 

I do think the stand it's slightly imposing for the tank. However, with the way it sits normally, much of the stand hides behind my chair (the plant to the left is normally up against it, touching it):


----------



## 0live

Okay... I REALLY like these stands. I've been planning out a fishroom and need to make a rack for some 15gals. Any obvious issues with using this design base for something like that?


----------



## Lornek8

Mostlydave said:


> That stand is amazing AnotherHobby!
> 
> do you think it would be possible to build this using a kreg jig intead of the brackets?
> 
> The 2x4s and 4x4 would be screwed to each other and glued and then the whole stand could be screwed and glued to the 3/4 inch peice the tank is actually sitting on.
> 
> I think it would look great assemled without the brackets and with no visible screws


 
The stand could easiley and quickly done with a Kreg Jig. I'd go for the newer HD version as they are designed for 2x material and are much stronger than the standard version. All-in-all pretty strong construction though most likely not as strong as with the brackets.


----------



## Lornek8

AnotherHobby said:


> Thanks everyone! As for using a kreg jig, I have no idea. I'm not any sort of master work worker, so that's something you'd have to look into.
> 
> Hoppy, you are spot on with regards to the weight capacity on the acrylic. I'm not sure it could even support a second finnex unit like a Monster Ray, but it might. I'd have to try it. As for any non-led unit, I don't think it'd have a chance. Also, I'm curious about your thoughts on the proportions. Are you thinking of where I chose to put the lower cross unit? I wasn't entirely happy with that after I did it, but it's done. I think it would look better higher up, but then I couldn't fit all my equipment under it. My Fluval 306 sneaks out with less than 1/4" of space.
> 
> Otherwise, the width matches the tank, the depth is as shallow as I could go with these supports (which is 2" past the tank in back), and the height is to make it perfect viewing height for my chair that sit's immediately beside it.
> 
> I do think the stand it's slightly imposing for the tank. However, with the way it sits normally, much of the stand hides behind my chair (the plant to the left is normally up against it, touching it):


 
Having started with reading this post I wasn't sure what Hoppy's comments were about, but having looked at the pics with the legs exposed gave me some ideas. To me, the stand with the 4x4 legs exposed looks a bit "heavy" and clumsy for the tank. Kinda like looking at an elephant. For a larger stand I think the look would work but for a smaller tank I think it might work better with the lower support closer to the ground. Just my personal opinion though, still love the looks of the stand and the doors/sides. Kinda a tansu-ish look to the stand.


----------



## ipkiss

very nice! I thought it was a bit ghetto when my dad built something similar back in the day to support his 75G because nothing we found at the stores seemed solid enough (I think he used the simpson series of joints too!) -- but I never was creative enough to figure out that finishing the wood would've made all the difference! 

thanks OP and everyone else who posted their ideas!


----------



## AnotherHobby

Lornek8 said:


> Having started with reading this post I wasn't sure what Hoppy's comments were about, but having looked at the pics with the legs exposed gave me some ideas. To me, the stand with the 4x4 legs exposed looks a bit "heavy" and clumsy for the tank. Kinda like looking at an elephant. For a larger stand I think the look would work but for a smaller tank I think it might work better with the lower support closer to the ground. Just my personal opinion though, still love the looks of the stand and the doors/sides. Kinda a tansu-ish look to the stand.


I don't disagree. Luckily I (or anybody) can't see it because it's behind my chair.


----------



## Knicolas

So I'm planning on making a stand but using only 2x4's. My tank is a Mini-L with the dimensions: 45cmx27cmx30cm (approx:18"x10.5"x12"). My question is: without adding a plywood top, would the tank be safely supported with just the outer edges of the stand? Also, what's the highest I can safely make the stand if the stand were to be made close to 18"W x 10.5"D?


----------



## Stone454

Knicolas said:


> So I'm planning on making a stand but using only 2x4's. My tank is a Mini-L with the dimensions: 45cmx27cmx30cm (approx:18"x10.5"x12"). My question is: without adding a plywood top, would the tank be safely supported with just the outer edges of the stand? Also, what's the highest I can safely make the stand if the stand were to be made close to 18"W x 10.5"D?


I do not know this specific tank, but if it has a rim or feet you should only need support on the edges/feet, if it is flat on the bottom i would fully support the bottom but use a piece of leather or something to put under the tank to give it a bit of cushion to keep it from getting scratched and so on


----------



## WEGL5280

Knicolas said:


> So I'm planning on making a stand but using only 2x4's. My tank is a Mini-L with the dimensions: 45cmx27cmx30cm (approx:18"x10.5"x12"). My question is: without adding a plywood top, would the tank be safely supported with just the outer edges of the stand? Also, what's the highest I can safely make the stand if the stand were to be made close to 18"W x 10.5"D?


With a rimless glass tank, or acrylic (I believe), you really need a flat surface beneath it to prevent bowing of the bottom pane. I would definitely do a plywood top on it, and then your "garden mat" for $30 :angryfire (*OR* a $6 roll of black slip-resistant drawer liner from HomeDepot, enough to do about 3-4 custom fit rimless mats, and about 99% identical material roud: )


----------



## Hoppy

Lornek8 said:


> Having started with reading this post I wasn't sure what Hoppy's comments were about, but having looked at the pics with the legs exposed gave me some ideas. To me, the stand with the 4x4 legs exposed looks a bit "heavy" and clumsy for the tank. Kinda like looking at an elephant. For a larger stand I think the look would work but for a smaller tank I think it might work better with the lower support closer to the ground. Just my personal opinion though, still love the looks of the stand and the doors/sides. Kinda a tansu-ish look to the stand.


I'm not a good designer, when it comes to selecting good proportions. I do notice when I see a design that doesn't seem "right" in proportions, and that was what I reacted to with this one. Unfortunately, I don't know why it seems "not right". When I made a somewhat similar stand, I took Hydrophytes design and kept the same proportions of the parts, and was very pleased with the final appearance. (I measured everything from the photo and figured the proportions from that.) Good design is a skill, and I suspect it is in part something that can be taught, but also in part just good artistic judgment, something I lack.


----------



## AnotherHobby

Hoppy said:


> I'm not a good designer, when it comes to selecting good proportions. I do notice when I see a design that doesn't seem "right" in proportions, and that was what I reacted to with this one. Unfortunately, I don't know why it seems "not right". When I made a somewhat similar stand, I took Hydrophytes design and kept the same proportions of the parts, and was very pleased with the final appearance. (I measured everything from the photo and figured the proportions from that.) Good design is a skill, and I suspect it is in part something that can be taught, but also in part just good artistic judgment, something I lack.


I chose my proportions based specifically on being able to fit my CO2 tank on/in the lower shelf. Sometimes when you design to mechanical specification you end up sacrificing in the aesthetic. While I enjoy the look of this stand in general (and can't see the proportions behind my chair anyway), I'm contemplating swapping it out for an Ikea stand that Brian_Cali77 is using. It would fit the modern look of my tank and lights better, and offers more storage.


----------



## lochaber

Knicolas said:


> So I'm planning on making a stand but using only 2x4's. My tank is a Mini-L with the dimensions: 45cmx27cmx30cm (approx:18"x10.5"x12"). My question is: without adding a plywood top, would the tank be safely supported with just the outer edges of the stand? Also, what's the highest I can safely make the stand if the stand were to be made close to 18"W x 10.5"D?



For a tank of that dimensions, you could do a really simple (and easy) stand out of a couple lengths of 2x12 - it will be wide enough(~11.5") to support the width of the tank, and it's plenty strong. I've currently got a 20XH set up on a stand made out of a single 2"x12"x12' (meant to get 10', but wasn't paying attention, and have a bit over a foot of scrap 2x12...). I'm trying to upload a pic from my phone, but sometimes it takes a while (or just doesn't work...)

basically take two pieces for the verticle segments, and run some simple dados in them about 3/4-1" deep(I did mine with a circ saw and chisels), and then stick the shelve segments in them, glue and screw, finish, and you're set. -I've got a set of bookshelves about a decade old I did in the same manner, and one of the ends is cupping, but the horizontals have been held pretty stable by the dados. And it's pretty strong, especially considered the time and planning (or lack thereof) that went into it.


aaand... I can't get the pic from my phone (and likely you wouldn't be able to make out anything aside from the clutter on/around my stand anyways...), so here's some google search images to try and demonstrate:

like this, except rotated 90 degrees

just like this, except only two shelves, and actual-sized

I hope some of that made sense, it really is easy, and strong...


----------



## Aqualady

Does anyone know how I can do this for it to 2 ten gallons, one on top and other on the bottom? The space I have to work with is 24x13.....I want it 31" tall.


----------



## lochaber

I think it would work if you build it big enough so that the legs sit just on the outside of the 10 gallons, and then add another set of braces on each level for the horizontals that will support the rim under the sides of the 10G.

Basically, build the stand wide (front to back) to fit a 10 gallon, but a bit too long (right to left), and then add in another set of horizontal supports to fit it to the 10g.


----------



## Method

Just got mine done a few days ago. The lights are PAR38 LEDs (9X2 W) with Ikea bowls for shades, hung from 1/2" electrical conduit. The shiny right side of the stand is a sheet of acrylic to keep my toddlers from messing with my DVR and PS3. The tank sits directly under my TV...

Thanks to Hydrophyte and AnotherHobby for design inspiration!


----------



## kitty_did

Question - For a 40B tank, would it be better to add a middle brace, like Sdylanh did in post #190?


----------



## Aquaticus

You don't need a middle brace. It would be more for aesthetics or function (door stop).


----------



## allabouttheplants

i would really like to do a stand like this for my 125L, only problem is then i would have to build matching end, and coffee tables. if anyone wonders if the stand is strong enough, i will use this as a perspective. the current stand for my 125L has no cross braces, it is built out of 1x4 and 1x6 trim nailed together, 3/16 paneling to enclose. the stand was built by a manufacturing company 15 years ago. if 1x4 can hold up 1000# than i am sure 4 4x4s can


----------



## serenityfate

One word...amazing


----------



## Sgtreef

Do like the look , but you said your TV is under it? :icon_eek:

Got it on the Wall above.

Jeff


----------



## AGUILAR3

Sgtreef said:


> you said your TV is under it? :icon_eek:
> 
> Got it on the Wall above.
> 
> Jeff





> The tank sits directly under my TV...


...


----------



## EwDeg

I've been struggling with stand ideas for the 40B I recently picked up. Thanks for the inspiration. This is by far my favorite solution. I'll post mine once it's built!


----------



## Raymond S.

Awesome !!!
I don't have reservations with most of the DIY stands that I see in here as far as
weight holding capacity. It's just that a couple of them tend to worry me about
possible sidewards colaps if pushed from the end by say a child falling into the side.
Don't have the slightest concern/w this one in that aria...LOL...


----------



## EwDeg

What kind of wood did you use for the 4x4s and 2x4s? Cedar, as well?



AnotherHobby said:


> I figured I'd come back here and update now that my stand is 100% complete. I'm super happy with the final result, and wanted to tank hydrophyte again for sharing such a great idea.
> 
> I originally built mine for a 30" long tank, but ended up getting a 60p sized one, so I had to shorten the stand to 24" long. I also finally built the front cover and side covers using 1x2 cedar. All 3 covers (front, left, right) are attached with magnets (the standard cupboard door kind). They simply click into place and remove super easy. It gives me fast and easy full access to everything on the lower shelf (CO2, filter, heater, reactor, power).
> 
> For the light hanger I bent clear acrylic tubing and ran a small chain through it. I feel it visually disappears better than metal poles would. Here is the full final product:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up with the panels in place:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Front and side panels pop right off:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Close up of my acrylic light poles:


----------



## AnotherHobby

EwDeg said:


> What kind of wood did you use for the 4x4s and 2x4s? Cedar, as well?


Yes, it's all cedar except the bottom shelf (plywood).


----------



## vanish

Hey folks. I love this design, especially Method's take on the stand.

I need to build a new stand for the 75G going in the living room (48.5x18.5 footprint), and passed this stand design on to my wife. She likes it, except for the core part of it, the metal brackets. Figures.

I read some talk of building a similar design using a Kreg Jig. Has anyone done it? What modifications would you make to ensure it was strong enough?


----------



## Mostlydave

I'd like to build one with a kreg jig to, without the metal brackets. I thought about using 3 screws per connection and gluing. As far as I can tell the weight would still all be carried by the 4x4s I think kreg + glue should be as strong as the brackets


----------



## bigd603

:drool:

Wow...that is one gorgeous stand. Very nicely done, and really smart idea to use the acrylic tubing for the chain and power cord.


----------



## ROWEBLAST

vanish said:


> Hey folks. I love this design, especially Method's take on the stand.
> 
> I need to build a new stand for the 75G going in the living room (48.5x18.5 footprint), and passed this stand design on to my wife. She likes it, except for the core part of it, the metal brackets. Figures.
> 
> I read some talk of building a similar design using a Kreg Jig. Has anyone done it? What modifications would you make to ensure it was strong enough?


Just built my 1/2 and 1/2 version last night for my 75 gallon! I'll get some pics up when the second stand is done. The top uses the brackets but the bottom is pocket hole (kreg jig) joined with glue. Still seems to be built like a tank.


----------



## Hoppy

The steel brackets give the stand its ability to handle any racking loads, like from bumping the stand from the side or front. Like all of our DIY stands it is over designed, but that makes small mistakes harmless. Personally, I wouldn't use the design for a 75 gallon stand without the brackets.


----------



## lochaber

vanish said:


> Hey folks. I love this design, especially Method's take on the stand.
> 
> I need to build a new stand for the 75G going in the living room (48.5x18.5 footprint), and passed this stand design on to my wife. She likes it, except for the core part of it, the metal brackets. Figures.
> 
> I read some talk of building a similar design using a Kreg Jig. Has anyone done it? What modifications would you make to ensure it was strong enough?



I wouldn't, I think having that much weight on such little material would be a bit too risky. 

It's a bit more complex, but if you put some rabbits or dados or similar in the uprights, and then set the crosbars in them, I think it would work fine. Slightly different look with the joints, but you could remove any visible hardware (use glue for strength, and if you need a fastener for clamping, put some screws in from the back, or use a plug cutter, etc.), and have the same overall shape of the stand.


----------



## Mostlydave

lochaber said:


> I wouldn't, I think having that much weight on such little material would be a bit too risky.
> 
> It's a bit more complex, but if you put some rabbits or dados or similar in the uprights, and then set the crosbars in them, I think it would work fine. Slightly different look with the joints, but you could remove any visible hardware (use glue for strength, and if you need a fastener for clamping, put some screws in from the back, or use a plug cutter, etc.), and have the same overall shape of the stand.



I'm not sure I understand what you're saying about the weight, the 4x4s will be carrying the weight of the tank directly to the floor


----------



## lochaber

Actually, yeah, if the 4x4s support the corners of the tank, then they would probably bear the weight directly, I was thinking of it as if the weight was resting on the crossbars, which would then transfer to the screws, running the risk of them breaking or deforming the wood.

But I think there is still the issue with racking as Hoppy pointed out.


----------



## Mostlydave

I think as long as the tank corners are actually sitting on the 4x4s they will bear almost all the weight of the tank and transfer it directly to the floor.

I'm thinking about building one of these for a 40b and I'll be skipping the metal brackets completely and using kerg jig and screws to put 3 screws in each joint with glue.

I think that will be enough to prevent any racking. I'm not an engineer but I think 2 &1/2 inch screws entering the 4x4 from the center of the 2x2 are probably just as strong of an attachment as the bracket with the little screws it comes with. wood glue is typically stronger that the wood it adheres so you'd have to really try to get a stand that is glued together to rack.


----------



## LRJ

Hello All,

This is my first post on the forum. Having recently decided that I want to setup an aquarium, I started doing some research and came across this site. The planted tanks here are amazing, and inspired me to go down that avenue.

I figured the first thing I needed was a stand, and then I saw hydrophyte's simple and awesome design. Bingo. 








The stand is built for a 20g long. I couldn't get my hands on any cedar, so I used Douglas Fir for the posts and cheap SPF 2x4s for the cross supports. I may eventually swap out the cross pieces with better lumber if I can find it, and I haven't decided yet whether to add the bottom shelf, and if so, what color. Ultimately I couldn't execute as well as I would have liked, but I'm OK with the result given it was my first time finishing wood. Thanks, hydrophyte.

Now I just have to get a tank, and start doing some research on how to keep a planted tank. Lot's of work ahead!


----------



## kitty_did

Do the brackets have to be sealed prior to use?


----------



## AnotherHobby

kitty_did said:


> Do the brackets have to be sealed prior to use?


No. They are galvanized for outdoor year round use. Any leaks from your aquarium shouldn't affect them.


----------



## hydrophyte

I built another one of these stands with a 165G plywood + resin enclosure to match. This is going to be a vivarium project with some pretty cool plants in it. I still need to add the glass panels to the tank. 










The bottom shelf will be the darkest of these light blues.


----------



## gus6464

hydrophyte said:


> I built another one of these stands with a 165G plywood + resin enclosure to match. This is going to be a vivarium project with some pretty cool plants in it. I still need to add the glass panels to the tank.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The bottom shelf will be the darkest of these light blues.


That color palette is so wild it's awesome.


----------



## mountaindew

Those colors pop!
As I commented in past I always like the industrial style.
md


----------



## AnotherHobby

Very cool hydrophyte! I agree with the others — sweet colors! 

You have to post some pics once this thing is up and going.


----------



## hydrophyte

gus6464 said:


> That color palette is so wild it's awesome.


Thanks. I thought the color scheme was pretty tame, actually.

I hope that the planting inside will be a lot cooler than the enclosure.


----------



## paronaram

Very nice stand and enclosure!:thumbsup:
Can you give us details on stand finish, is it a paint or stain?

Thanks
Aram


----------



## hydrophyte

paronaram said:


> Very nice stand and enclosure!:thumbsup:
> Can you give us details on stand finish, is it a paint or stain?
> 
> Thanks
> Aram


The enclosure and the stand are both finished with regular interior satin latex enamel on top of Zinsser water base primer. This is plenty durable and easy to touch up.

The inside of the enclosure was sealed with the US Composites 635 thin epoxy resin kit.


----------



## CL

Bet you didn't know you'd have such a following for this stand design, did ya Devin? :hihi:


----------



## Hoppy

hydrophyte said:


> The enclosure and the stand are both finished with regular interior satin latex enamel on top of Zinsser water base primer. This is plenty durable and easy to touch up.
> 
> The inside of the enclosure was sealed with the US Composites 635 thin epoxy resin kit.


How about starting a thread about how you made the tank? Looks interesting.


----------



## lochaber

hydrophyte said:


> The enclosure and the stand are both finished with regular interior satin latex enamel on top of Zinsser water base primer. This is plenty durable and easy to touch up.
> 
> The inside of the enclosure was sealed with the US Composites 635 thin epoxy resin kit.


I'm wandering a bit off topic here, but how did that resin work for you?

If I ever get back to work on my project, I was thinking of using something pretty similar (maybe the same?) For coating a plywood enclosure.


----------



## LRJ

I have a question that hopefully someone can help me with. 

I'm making an edge-glued panel to sit on top of my Hydrophyte Stand as some other forum members have done. The reason I'm doing this is because the tank is rimless, and, I believe, requires support across the entire bottom. If the panel that I make rests fully on the stand's corners and edge rails, is it also necessary to also place a cross support in the middle? It seems like perhaps not, but I want to be certain.


----------



## Xenaph

i up these thread to say thank you to all people, i read the 18 pages of theses thread.

I did a special order two weeks ago to order 8 strong ties rtc42 with screw strong ties!

I will do the stand with dimension 32,5"x18x30". I will add a plywood top because the tank will be a rimless acrylic tank with sump.

My only question is, do i need to glue before to screw or only the screw is enough to hold 600 pounds with the 4x4 ?

Thank


----------



## AnotherHobby

Xenaph said:


> My only question is, do i need to glue before to screw or only the screw is enough to hold 600 pounds with the 4x4 ?


Absolutely no glue necessary. These brackets with this design can hold far more than an aquarium.


----------



## TankFreak420

Wow, I love it. and now feel like I did far too much for my 40g and 15g stands.


----------



## hydrophyte

lochaber said:


> I'm wandering a bit off topic here, but how did that resin work for you?
> 
> If I ever get back to work on my project, I was thinking of using something pretty similar (maybe the same?) For coating a plywood enclosure.


Don't use the US Composites resin! It is cheap and there are many references to using it for building tanks, but it has important problems.

You will be much better off with a Polygem Zoopoxy product. Send them an email to explain what you are doing and they can recommend something.


----------



## Xenaph

AnotherHobby said:


> Absolutely no glue necessary. These brackets with this design can hold far more than an aquarium.


With a rimless tank, i will not level up the 4x4. So do i need to add a crossbar in the middle or only the top of plywood 1/2 is enough strength with the 4x4 ?


----------



## LRJ

Xenaph said:


> With a rimless tank, i will not level up the 4x4. So do i need to add a crossbar in the middle or only the top of plywood 1/2 is enough strength with the 4x4 ?


What do you mean about leveling up the 4x4? 

The stand as constructed is plenty strong to hold the weight of the tank. The issue with the frameless aquarium however is that the bottom panel of the tank needs to be supported. I ran into this issue with my tank, and I came to the conclusion that if the top panel is resting flush on the tops of the corner posts and the edge cross supports, then there's no need to add an additional cross support in the middle.


----------



## Xenaph

Here the semi-final product. I need to add a top, and panel.


----------



## Raymond S.

I do not understand why people don't realize that a rimless tank is a whole different tank from a tank/w a frame. The rimless tank needs a 100% solid supporting surface under the entire bottom of it. Just a small amount of sag and you break the bottom glass.
IMO 1/2" plywood is much too flexible for this.


----------



## Hoppy

Raymond S. said:


> I do not understand why people don't realize that a rimless tank is a whole different tank from a tank/w a frame. The rimless tank needs a 100% solid supporting surface under the entire bottom of it. Just a small amount of sag and you break the bottom glass.
> IMO 1/2" plywood is much too flexible for this.


Do rimless tanks have thinner glass bottoms than standard tanks? If not, then they can't require any more support than standard tanks. The bottom rim of a standard tank is what supports the bottom glass of those tanks. Substituting a stand, without a flat top shouldn't change anything.


----------



## Xenaph

Raymond S. said:


> I do not understand why people don't realize that a rimless tank is a whole different tank from a tank/w a frame. The rimless tank needs a 100% solid supporting surface under the entire bottom of it. Just a small amount of sag and you break the bottom glass.
> IMO 1/2" plywood is much too flexible for this.


I always put a 3/4 plywood on the top and i will add a middle brace. I did a error on 1/2 in my last post.

My other stand have a 75P ada on 3/4 sheet of MDF + the garden mat.


----------



## Raymond S.

That would be a whole different ball game. Especially the 3/4 ply. People don't realize the flex built into plywood. It has fantastic strength, but is more flexible than real boards are.
But once you went to 3/4 it became far less and the center brace removes the sagging in the very center also.
BTW the structural integrity of the stand pictured is 10 x stronger than the first pictured.
Here's a relevant question. Are any of the rimless tanks made/w tempered glass bottoms ?


----------



## Xenaph

What type of top you recommand ?

The first picture is very strong of the stand is on Level, the 4x4 est very strong.


----------



## Xenaph

I bought some wood merisier 1x5, i glue them toghetter and i also put between the tank a styrofoam.

The tank is rimless but it an acrylic not glass.


----------



## TankFreak420

So wish I could do this type of stand on my new 120g. Even if it would handle it, I want to run a sump and hide it.


----------



## barakainus

Raymond S. said:


> I do not understand why people don't realize that a rimless tank is a whole different tank from a tank/w a frame. The rimless tank needs a 100% solid supporting surface under the entire bottom of it. Just a small amount of sag and you break the bottom glass.
> IMO 1/2" plywood is much too flexible for this.


Sorry, but this is simply not true. Any glass tank can be supported just at its edges and do just fine. In fact, you can build multiple (full) tanks above each other as an aquarium wall without using any stand and some breeders actually do exactly that. 
btw, rimless tanks can be supported only on two sides and be fine. Tanks with plastic rim usually need support on all 4 sides or the plastic will break.


----------



## trailsnale

xenaph, cool looking cat! what kind is it?


----------



## Raymond S.

Hoppy said:


> Do rimless tanks have thinner glass bottoms than standard tanks? If not, then they can't require any more support than standard tanks. The bottom rim of a standard tank is what supports the bottom glass of those tanks. Substituting a stand, without a flat top shouldn't change anything.


 I apparently am on my way towards finding out something new about these
"rimless" tanks. I don't think they have thinner bottom glass...but...
Question: Do they have a tempered bottom glass ? Regular tanks do and have
a sticker on the bottom glass so you won't try to cut that panel.
In fact, on another forum a video was shown in which a person loaded several flat stones into a 20g tank and then stood on top of them. Total weight being over 200Lb.
It was a link supplied as a reply to the question..."Do you think it's safe to have this much weight in this tank" and it showed a 20g regular tank/w a stone on top of some sub and the stone was 3/4 as tall as the tank. 
Mostly I just feel that I have been shown proof that a regular style tank is strong enough to be supported only on the ends, but as of yet have no such proof in the rimless style.
No trying to be argumentative but rather just cautious for sake of the tank owners till shown some supporting evidence of structural soundness in the
rimless variety.


----------



## TankFreak420

Raymond S. said:


> I do not understand why people don't realize that a rimless tank is a whole different tank from a tank/w a frame. The rimless tank needs a 100% solid supporting surface under the entire bottom of it. Just a small amount of sag and you break the bottom glass.
> IMO 1/2" plywood is much too flexible for this.


Rimless tanks are built just the same as tanks with rims. I mean come on the rim is the last step. That and most rimless tanks I have see where tanks that just had there rims removed. Are you saying that a tank with a rim is fine to be supported by the edges, but if you remove that rim it somehow can't be supported by the edges? Only tanks that need full support under them are acrylic tanks, Joey has said it many times in his diy videos.


----------



## AGUILAR3

Built myself a temporary stand with nothing more than a few pallets from work, a box of drywall screws, an 8oz jar of stain and an old 70's hand saw. It's far from perfect but it works. Now that it's finished, it may not be so temporary anymore.:hihi:


----------



## jamblor

Great stands, the stain really gives it a different look from just bare wood.


----------



## TankFreak420

That looks nice. Great job.


----------



## lhoy

Just an FYI for anyone reading through this thread. Per the manufacture's website (Simpson Strong Ties) the RTC42 was discontinued in 2014 and very hard to find available on the internet.


----------



## AGUILAR3

The Home Depot web site says that all of my Local stores have them in stock. Apperently I have 16 HD stores within a 12 mile radius and each store has anywhere between 10-47 in stock. "Simpson Strong-Tie 18-Gauge 2X Rigid Tie Connector Model # RTC42".


----------



## BS87

Another FYI for this thread, I build one of these (very similar to the original design) about 3 years ago. It's held a 40B every since, rock solid. I have no qualms about the stand holding up.


----------



## The Big Buddha

Aguilar, is it the screws that are bearing all the load on your stand?


----------



## Bob Madoran

lhoy said:


> Just an FYI for anyone reading through this thread. Per the manufacture's website (Simpson Strong Ties) the RTC42 was discontinued in 2014 and very hard to find available on the internet.


From the manufactures web site:

*RTC24 and RTC24Z Discontinued in 2014*
The RTC24 and RTC24Z models are being discontinued and will have limited availability. Simpson Strong-Tie recommends substituting the new *RTC2Z Rigid Tie® Connector* for these items.


As far as I can tell, the RTC42 which uses a 4x4 post has not been discontinued. The RTC24 and RTC24Z which use a 2x4 post have been a updated to a new version and the old ones are no long being made.


----------



## AGUILAR3

The Big Buddha said:


> Aguilar, is it the screws that are bearing all the load on your stand?


No. My legs are resting on the floor and on the inside of the upper and lower frames like the image below.


----------



## The Big Buddha

Myself, I wouldnt trust drywall screws. It just looks like in your picture the screws are what is holding the load from the top frame to the legs.


----------



## AGUILAR3

Like the picture above, the legs are not on top or under the square frames. 

btw, you want to talk about scary? The 5' 110g tank I picked up came with a 1.2" thick particle board stand held together by nails and wood glue. They guy said he's had it set up for over 15yrs


----------



## AGUILAR3

My apologies to Big B for not understanding his concerns. My stand is in fact missing a few very important braces. The fuchsia/purple supports pictured in the sketch below.


----------



## Kathyy

The corners of the tank should be directly supported by the legs. Your stand has the frames keeping the legs vertical which is fine but I cannot quite tell if the corners of the tank are directly over the legs. If the corners of the tank are on the deck and not over the legs then changing the legs so they have those extra pieces isn't going to help at all.

My first stand was constructed like that and the tank stayed up for 12 years just fine. I think I used lag bolts rather than screws though. After learning that that was all wrong I worried a lot though!


----------



## AGUILAR3

The tank footprint is smaller than the base it sits on so it's actually sitting on the strips of plywood running across the top. The 1/2" plywood are resting on the outer frame, legs and 2 inner cross brace.


----------



## Zoomy

Love this thread. DH is almost excited to build one for my new 50g (36x18 footprint) tank. Plan is to use black polyurethane stain. We'll likely do sides and doors, mostly to keep nosy cats and their hair out of things. What to do for sides...still haven't decided. I kind of like the idea of sheet metal, of some sort, to match the brackets.


----------



## Vancat2

Been watching this thread for years. What a great inspiration the original stand turned out to be.


----------



## Zoomy

What did you all use for screws/nails? DH is only finding gold-colored...and, well, :confused1: *barf*


----------



## Zoomy

Yay, he found them...I was thinking I'd have to buy a silver paint marker and color over the gold screws.


----------



## TINNGG

I was going to say, don't think you want those brass screws.

Wouldn't something like this look cool for the doors... http://www.surfacingsolution.com/TinCeilings.htm?gclid=CI6L7cvqtcUCFWPl7AodugoAAg

DH would kill me if I brought in another tank for a stand like this, not to mention his reaction at "honey, could you build this stand for me?" OTOH, it would actually coordinate with the TV stand I insisted he wait and let me order.


----------



## Zoomy

Those would make awesome sides/doors! Definitely something I'm going to consider if I decide it needs to be enclosed.


----------



## Aplomado

Here is my version of the stand. My father helped me put it together. I used 2x4s only- I did not use the 3x3 posts (they wouldn't fit this size tank- 20 gallon tall), so I had to use different braces than those used by hydrophyte. The wood is cheap fir, it cost about $10. The Strong Tie braces I used were these:










The kit has the hardware for one stand.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Workbench-or-Shelving-Hardware-Kit-WBSK/205177374

I painted the braces with latex acrylic paint- most spray paint will not stick to galvinazed metal.


----------



## Mariostg

Aplomado said:


> Here is my version of the stand. My father helped me put it together. I used 2x4s only- I did not use the 3x3 posts (they wouldn't fit this size tank- 20 gallon tall), so I had to use different braces than those used by hydrophyte. The wood is cheap fir, it cost about $10. The Strong Tie braces I used were these:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The kit has the hardware for one stand.
> 
> http://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-Strong-Tie-Workbench-or-Shelving-Hardware-Kit-WBSK/205177374
> 
> I painted the braces with latex acrylic paint- most spray paint will not stick to galvinazed metal.


Actually quite nice. Sometime time simple is just the best.


----------



## Beefy

That kit is a great way to get everything. All the individual goodies are hard to get in Canada unless you special order! *BUY*


----------



## oldpunk78

Has anyone done this type of stand and used a coastal grey stain? If so, pics would be awesome!


----------



## TINNGG

Heh; looks like my angelfish gave me a need for a new tank, pest mart's price matching petco gave me a great deal on it, and now I need a stand because I don't want to leave that thing on my kitchen counter forever.

Such hardship.

A contractor's pack contains exactly enough of the brackets. Lowes only had 3 on the shelf, but a whole box above. I got the box, so now they still have 3 on the shelf.

Now, has anyone found a 4x4 that's NOT pressure treated?


----------



## Aplomado

TINNGG said:


> Heh; looks like my angelfish gave me a need for a new tank, pest mart's price matching petco gave me a great deal on it, and now I need a stand because I don't want to leave that thing on my kitchen counter forever.
> 
> Such hardship.
> 
> A contractor's pack contains exactly enough of the brackets. Lowes only had 3 on the shelf, but a whole box above. I got the box, so now they still have 3 on the shelf.
> 
> Now, has anyone found a 4x4 that's NOT pressure treated?


Which brackets did you get? The package I posted was for 2x4s only:










I didn't kn ow they had contractor packs for the larger versions?


----------



## TINNGG

The RTC42 equivalent. This is made by a different company though.

Basically, that's what the case is labeled as - a contractor pack - and it contains 8.


----------



## Bushkill

TINNGG said:


> Heh; looks like my angelfish gave me a need for a new tank, pest mart's price matching petco gave me a great deal on it, and now I need a stand because I don't want to leave that thing on my kitchen counter forever.
> 
> Such hardship.
> 
> A contractor's pack contains exactly enough of the brackets. Lowes only had 3 on the shelf, but a whole box above. I got the box, so now they still have 3 on the shelf.
> 
> Now, has anyone found a 4x4 that's NOT pressure treated?


Home Depot sells stud grade 4X4's and Lowe's doesn't. There's still some other home centers / lumberyards around, but not many that may have them.


----------



## TINNGG

'kay. May have to investigate another store. The one I was at yesterday appeared to have nothing untreated.

I was looking at bannister posts. They have some that are 4x4 top and bottom, but they're too long and I'm not sure I could trim enough off them to make them useable. Still can't figure out who needs a bannister 4-5' high.


----------



## TINNGG

At this point, it looks like it's a very regional thing - none of the stores in my area have stud grade 4x4s. They do appear to have cedar 4x4 fence posts though. Hmmm. Naturally, they don't carry matching 2x4s.

Slightly annoyed - we had a bunch of lumber sawed up by someone with a portable saw mill. FIL gave away what wasn't used for a deck that...was a bad idea since it wasn't pressure treated. Eh, stuff would probably be so deteriorated by now it would be a bad idea for this too.


----------



## LRJ

TINNGG said:


> At this point, it looks like it's a very regional thing - none of the stores in my area have stud grade 4x4s. They do appear to have cedar 4x4 fence posts though. Hmmm. Naturally, they don't carry matching 2x4s.
> 
> Slightly annoyed - we had a bunch of lumber sawed up by someone with a portable saw mill. FIL gave away what wasn't used for a deck that...was a bad idea since it wasn't pressure treated. Eh, stuff would probably be so deteriorated by now it would be a bad idea for this too.


Not sure what lengths you're willing to go to, but when I made one of these stands I had clear vertical grain douglas fir 4x4s and 2x4s delivered from this company: http://www.onlinelumberstore.com/lumber. They also carry western red cedar and redwood. I've ordered from them several times since for other projects, and have been very satisfied with my experiences. They do residential shipping with no minimum on how much you have to purchase, and it's beautiful wood.


----------



## Zoomy

It's been nearly a year since my handy DH built this stand for my 50g. Recently he built the shelves above as a means to store stuff and suspend my light (the shelves are attached to the wall via cleat, so super sturdy). The turnbuckles were my idea. They're really perfect for making micro-adjustments to the hight and leveling of the light.


----------



## Remmy

Thread revive because why not
Would it be possible to use just 2x4's and only internal support brackets and glue https://2ecffd01e1ab3e9383f0-07db7b...1600/4884786c-0531-4d4b-8bf7-ad030dcc070b.jpg
To support a 50 gallon? or does this design rely on having the brackets externally


----------



## reddhawkk

I am far from a cabinet maker or carpenter but I believe it relies on the external brackets.


----------



## Harley007

Hi there ! So I am just starting my stand tomorrow, we have purchased the wood. It is for 180gal tank. Couple ?
How many pieces of 2x4 should i layer on the inside of my frame for support? Should I go 4x4 or double the 2x4 on legs and does it matter?
Im thinking 3/4 in plywood for top and bottom.... Also im guessing with my dimensions Ill have to build doors? Im looking to find the shop table deck corner brackets steel plated to give it the industrial look, where did you find them? 
Stand is 7 ft long 6 in on either side of tank and 3 ft deep and 3ft high 
Oh yes and the color stain that was used? What exactly is it? Its gorgeous!~
Thank you!


----------

