# excessive diatoms are destroying my tank....



## ER9 (Aug 2, 2008)

more photos....

if theres any other information i forgot, please ask. i'm sure i missed something i cant think of right now.

just to mention.....all my plants, with the exception of them getting smothered, seem to be healthy. they are nice green color and dont stop growing. i would say their growth rate seems normal and healthy.


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## skoorbza (Jun 8, 2008)

What stock do you have? Any clean-up crew?


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## ER9 (Aug 2, 2008)

not much of a clean up crew. just 2 otto's, 2 cherry shrimp and 2 crystal shrimp. i havn't gotten a pleco yet because i couldn't find anyone that had bristlenose in stock. i finally found a place online and i am ordering one tomorrow.

my full stock in the aquarium is 1 dwarf gourami, 1 dwarf puffer, 3 white clouds, 2 leopard danios, 3 gallaxy raspbora/danios, 2 ottos and 4 shrimp mentioned above.

also just to add if it matters. PH is 7.8 ish, KH @ 7, NH = 0, NO2= 0 and Nitrate around 15ish. i dont have potassium or phosphate test kits. no ideas what they are or that it even matters.


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## Avalon (Aug 14, 2004)

This is the result of excessive organics, low water circulation, and a lack of CO2. When you create conditions that force plants to adjust (such as removing CO2), this will happen. You have multiple algae problems--Staghorn, BGA, a minor diatom issue, and likely some BBA. Keep the water clean with frequent water changes (every 4 days) and you'll likely want to reduce your macro dosing since you've discontinued CO2. Also, reduce your lighting duration to no more than 10 hours a day (less might be better at the moment).


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## ER9 (Aug 2, 2008)

thank you avalon. i just reset my timers to 8 hours a day and will give the tank time to adjust to the new light. 

you mention excess organics. i assume that mainly means fish waste and decaying plants? 

i'm considering adding flourish excel to supplement for the co2. wonder what opinions might be if this will worsen or help my situation?

also think i'm going to upgrade to a much better filter for improved filtration and waterflow. will see how this all goes.

thanks


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## markopolo (Jun 2, 2008)

you also may be fertilizing too much for the plant mass that you have in the tank. Also make sure you have no additional light sources hitting the tank, a window or a skylight. i had that issue with my skylight took me three months to figure out that was the problem :icon_eek: for a 42 gallon also you really need more ottos. i have 4 in my 20 gallon and 4 nerites and it still isnt enough. consider bumpin up that number to maybe 8 ottos or so


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

You definitely are not over fertilizing! The PPS Pro fertilizing method is a lean fertilizing regime, aimed at providing no more of any nutrient than the plants absolutely need. Using less than that is almost always going to be much to little fertilizing.

You didn't say what kind of lights you use, but if they are T5 lights you have high light intensity, and must use CO2 to avoid constant algae problems. DIY CO2 is notorious for giving fluctuating CO2 concentrations, which cause algae problems. Adding Excel along with the CO2 would help a lot by keeping a more nearly constant source of carbon available to the plants. But, for that size tank I think you will want to use pressurized CO2 as soon as you can afford to get it.

The reduction in photoperiod will help a lot, increasing the water circulation in the tank will also help a lot, as will fertilizing with full strength or more PPS Pro solutions. Reducing the light intensity would probably help the most, perhaps by raising the lights higher above the tank. Once you finally get the algae under control you can start increasing the light intensity again.


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## markopolo (Jun 2, 2008)

ooops my mistake!!! i should have read your whole post :icon_redf yes listen to hoppy stratch the over ferts. However, still look for another source of lighting this can be an issue as well!


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## ER9 (Aug 2, 2008)

good question on the lights. i have (2X) 36 watt 5500k compact fluorescent bulbs with AHS reflector right at water level. 

http://ahsupply.com/36-55w.htm

i really appreciate all the help. i have a little hope now i can get through this.


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## Aquarist_Fist (Jul 22, 2008)

ER9 said:


> my full stock in the aquarium is 1 dwarf gourami, 1 dwarf puffer, 3 white clouds, 2 leopard danios, 3 gallaxy raspbora/danios, 2 ottos and 4 shrimp mentioned above.


I hope you din't mind me saying, but your stock list reads like a Stephen King novel.  Please don't take this the wrong way, you'll have a lot more fun with a more natural stocking. Here is what I don't like:

Dwarf Gouramis: Should be kept in pairs or trios. This is a minor issue, as Gouramis often do fine alone. I also know that sometimes it's hard to even get females.

Dwarf Puffer: Even if yours is a remarkably peaceful individual, as it gets older chances are that one day it will rip apart any fish and shrimp it can chase down. 

White Clouds: Are schoal fish. Three is not a shoal. Plus, White Clouds need cool temperatures. Dwarf Puffers and Gouramis like warmer water.

Leopard Danios: Shoaling fish

Galaxy Rasboras: Shoaling fish

Otos: Are happier in a group of at least 3-4.

Shrimps: Just fine. But if you have two males or females, there will be no babies. 


Here is what I suggest:

Get rid of the White Clouds. I know they are beautiful lovely fish, but they just do better in water around 65-70. You can usually "donate" fish to your LSF if they are healthy. Also get rid of the puffer. Give him his own little 5 gallon tank. What a great excuse for another tank...

Introduce some more Leopards and Galaxies so that you have at least 6 of each species. The more individuals you have, the more tightly they will shoal. 

Get a couple more otos. This should also help you with you diatom problem. In the long run, otos won't let live a single colony, as diatoms are one of their favorite food. The only reason I could come up with why your otos have been so reluctant is a) they have not been happy with only two of them (even though this usually doesn't keep them from feeding), or b) not all of the stuff is diatom. Otos don't eat all algae.

Good luck with your tank! roud:


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## ER9 (Aug 2, 2008)

Lol...no offense taken. how can you not laugh at that. i know i bought most of them almost a year ago when i started my first tank. didn't really know much about what i was doing, still obviouslly learning. they all, with the exception of the gallaxies, have been together for that time.

i appreciate all the advice and am going to take some of it. i definatelly am going to up my stock on the danios, gallaxies and ottos. otto's first...the others as soon as i figure out how to keep a clean tank environment. also going to really watch my puffer closelly. i think i might be one of the lucky few that got a peacefull one. with the exception of snails he seems to be extremely easy going. he will look at my shrimp but even when they were tiny he paid little attention to them. he's almost a year old now as well so fingers crossed. i really hate to move him and will try not to unless absolutelly necessary. i am trying to go low-tech with this tank because i like things to be as easy and rewarding as possible. another tank to clean would be a pain to me. we shall see though as i would rather another tank than get rid of him. 

as for shrimp...i have all females because i want to avoid babies  dont want the hastle. and not sure yet about my whiteclouds. they have proven over the past year to be the toughest fish in the aquarium. with the exception of one danio...the three i have are the same three i purchased first. all three have survived everything in stride. none have even gotten sick yet. i do try to keep temps as cool as possible for them and they seem pretty happy. who knows though....if stock gets to heavy and i can find a good home for them. i didn't miss your point on the fact i have fish that prefer diffrent environments/temps. its going to hard to give away my minnows if i have to.


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