# Do you really perform 50% water change weekly with EI method?



## Bubba_Shrimp (Jun 16, 2009)

As suggested for the EI method, 50% of water change is required on a weekly basis. So, if you have 150 gal tank... Do you really change 70+ gallons every week? :icon_eek:

Please share your experience. Thanks!



*P.S.* Not sure how you do it but I bought 'Python No Spill Clean & Fill' and just to drain 50% water of my 90 gallon took about 30+ min (35 feet hose)  

Water comes so slow from the tank that I probably wasted 5 times more water from the faucet that was 'pumping' aquarium water... And yes, I followed the instructions.... :icon_smil


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

If it's possible don't drain the tank to the sink drain it to the outside of your house. When you refill attach the python to the sink. You'll save alot of water. 

But yeah, it's best to drain about 50%. Depending on your dosing, plant mass and stock you might be able to get away with less than 50%.


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## Bubba_Shrimp (Jun 16, 2009)

That's exactly what I'll try next time - drain outside and hope my backyard grass would appreciate some nutrients :icon_smil




houseofcards said:


> If it's possible don't drain the tank to the sink drain it to the outside of your house. When you refill attach the python to the sink. You'll save alot of water.
> 
> But yeah, it's best to drain about 50%. Depending on your dosing, plant mass and stock you might be able to get away with less than 50%.


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## ReefkprZ (Aug 21, 2010)

I have a 125 and I do 50% changes weekly, sometimes I double up and do 2 in a row making a 75% change in total. I have marked on my aquarium back corner exactly how far for 25% 50% and 75% water changes. 

the lower you can put the end of your siphon the faster it will draw water, so hanging it out a nearby window and down to the ground will definitely drain a lot faster than trying to drain to a sink almost level with the aquarium.


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## Heartnet (Sep 13, 2009)

Bubba_Shrimp said:


> probably wasted 5 times more water from the faucet that was 'pumping' aquarium water... And yes, I followed the instructions.... :icon_smil


IME, you don't have to keep 'pumping' your aquarium water by keeping the faucet on; if it's low enough, all you have to do is turn the faucet on to start the vacuum. Then you can turn off your facet once the vacuum has started, since the vacuum will continue to drain water from the tank based on the laws of physics. It'll save you that much water. :thumbsup:


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

You can further save water by modifying/lowering the EI routine too. So instead of doing 50% water change, you can do 25% for instance.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

I use this, takes me about 30min to change the water, but then I also trim and clean filters or anything else that may be needed, so it's not wasted time, 30-45 min a week on a large well scaped tank ain't much.










Hangs on the tank, connects to the shower, drains in the yard, refill in the bathroom shower head with tank temp water. No mess, no waste. I can wander around if there's no work to be done inside the tank.

If you reduce the light and have a higher fish load, sediment ferts etc, you can easily go a month without water changes etc, and dose say 1/2 the dose ranges etc.

"Wet" has a nice modeling calc for estimation.

EI is not set in stone, I've just used 50% weekly as an example, other folks may have suggested otherwise, but I NEVER have. It's sort of the point. You can play around and see what suits.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Bubba_Shrimp (Jun 16, 2009)

I did try that but without much luck :icon_frow
If I turn off faucet after initial start, water flow from the tank drops to almost nothing... Probably due to sink being on the same level as tank.




Heartnet said:


> IME, you don't have to keep 'pumping' your aquarium water by keeping the faucet on; if it's low enough, all you have to do is turn the faucet on to start the vacuum. Then you can turn off your facet once the vacuum has started, since the vacuum will continue to drain water from the tank based on the laws of physics. It'll save you that much water. :thumbsup:


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## Bubba_Shrimp (Jun 16, 2009)

Very good idea! It will save me to constantly check on the siphon tube if it still in the tank :icon_smil

'connects to the shower, drains in the yard' - how does this part work. I mean do you have something similar as python's faucet pump?



plantbrain said:


> I use this, takes me about 30min to change the water, but then I also trim and clean filters or anything else that may be needed, so it's not wasted time, 30-45 min a week on a large well scaped tank ain't much.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

With a big tank your probably better off going to the yard. I know with my cesspool I've had issues draining alot of water so quickly.


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## Geminiluna (Jul 24, 2007)

This has been on my mind lately since I have multiple tanks (50, 75, and 125 gallons). But we're also on a septic system and high volume water in a short amount of time into a septic system is a big "no-no". On the other hand, it's also difficult to remove window screens and get a line out the window or door to drain directly to the outside for me. Not to mention, when winter comes, skating rinks would be a disaster. ;-)


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

Geminiluna said:


> This has been on my mind lately since I have multiple tanks (50, 75, and 125 gallons). But we're also on a septic system and high volume water in a short amount of time into a septic system is a big "no-no". On the other hand, it's also difficult to remove window screens and get a line out the window or door to drain directly to the outside for me. Not to mention, when winter comes, skating rinks would be a disaster. ;-)


LOL, I hear ya. My big tank is in my kitchen so it's really easy to drain into the backyard. Kitchen's a great place for a tank for many reasons.


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## calvert (Apr 29, 2010)

i just disconnect the python after the siphon starts and drain it in the toilet. drains faster... still takes about 15 mins to drain a 75g 50%, but i do some other aquarium maintenance during that time.

so much better than hauling 40 gallons of water around in buckets.


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## Bubba_Shrimp (Jun 16, 2009)

Thanks for the input guys!

And when it's time to refill, do you just add dechlorinator to the tank before or while filling with tap water?


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## jcardona1 (Jun 27, 2008)

I attach my Python to the garden hose outside. Gives me a lot more suckage power than the kitchen sink 

I used to do 70-80% weekly water changes on my 400g cichla tank. But of course, that was in the garage and had a valve underneat. Just open up the valve and watch the waterfall pour down my driveway!


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## jcardona1 (Jun 27, 2008)

Bubba_Shrimp said:


> Thanks for the input guys!
> 
> And when it's time to refill, do you just add dechlorinator to the tank before or while filling with tap water?


I add it before refilling, and I add enough to treat the entire tank.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

I just hang the PVC end onto my tank, the depth is pre set, so I start the siphon and have 50ft to put the water anywhere I wish for draining.

I can walk away. Once I hear a siphon break gurgle, I come back, attach to the 1/2" to garden hose adapter I have for the shower head, adjust the water temp, pull the shower spray lever, then the tank is being filled.

I add dechlorinator at this time and the ferts.

You can also adjust the depth by twisting the pipe drain up or totally vertical for max depth for draining. I use 3/4" Hose so the drain is fast/refill etc.

I simply break the siphon and then move to the next tank and repeat.
I can change 5 tanks totaling 450 gallon in about 1.5 hours or so.
I obviously need to clean filters as well, so I do that, clean etc, add ferts while the drain and refill is goign on.

The total labor is only about 5-10 minutes for the water change and involved getting the hose out and connecting it to the shower, moving the hose from tank to tank etc.

Hardly much of a chore.

You can also semi and fully automate water changes, I do this for clients and shall for my home......if I get around to buying one.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## snafuspyramid (May 27, 2010)

I'd also like to know whether you can get away with EI with lower water changes.

I've been using the "low tech excel" EI method (if that makes sense) which recommends 50% water changes. I believe this is just a summary of your work, Tom: http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/planted-aquarium/guide-low-tech-excel-planted-tank/

I can't change that much water. The labour's the same (I just use a hose). We have crazy water restrictions here, water isn't cheap. 

So instead, I've been dosing half the recommended ferts and changing half as much water. So far no problems. Bad idea?


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

I to 70-80% on my 75g. EI dosing of course. I use the same type PVC as Tom does. I drain it into my pond out front. This of course gives me two pluses. It gives fert to all my pond plants and "skims" and does a semi WC on my pond. Then to refill I use the python sink attachment and hook it up to my sink and fill. I also add my Prime as soon as I start pumping water into my tank. I have also forgot and added prime once the WC was almost complete with no ill effects.


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## snafuspyramid (May 27, 2010)

But... does anyone do less than 50% water changes with EI dosing? How much less? How much have they reduced the dosing?

Not so much _how_ you do large water changes.


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## Bubba_Shrimp (Jun 16, 2009)

How do you start the siphon? Just suck water from the hose with your mouth or you have some 'squeeze' bulb or something else?



Dempsey said:


> I to 70-80% on my 75g. EI dosing of course. I use the same type PVC as Tom does. I drain it into my pond out front. This of course gives me two pluses. It gives fert to all my pond plants and "skims" and does a semi WC on my pond. Then to refill I use the python sink attachment and hook it up to my sink and fill. I also add my Prime as soon as I start pumping water into my tank. I have also forgot and added prime once the WC was almost complete with no ill effects.


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## captain_bu (Oct 20, 2007)

Bubba_Shrimp said:


> How do you start the siphon? Just suck water from the hose with your mouth or you have some 'squeeze' bulb or something else?


I use a homemade PVC and garden hose "Python" similar to the one Tom uses. It is really easy to start the siphon you just have to suck on the end of the hose briefly. You don't have to keep at it until you end up with water in your mouth. As soon as the water gets over the bend in the PVC and over the rim of the tank gravity does the rest. It takes very little effort to get the siphon started.


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## captain_bu (Oct 20, 2007)

snafuspyramid said:


> I'd also like to know whether you can get away with EI with lower water changes.
> 
> I've been using the "low tech excel" EI method (if that makes sense) which recommends 50% water changes. I believe this is just a summary of your work, Tom: http://www.sudeepmandal.com/hobbies/planted-aquarium/guide-low-tech-excel-planted-tank/
> 
> ...


How is your tank doing? If you see no problems why are you even concerned? Assuming your plants and tank are doing well how can it be a bad idea?


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## fiftyfiveG (Apr 25, 2009)

I hookup one end of plython to a pump (quietone 3000) drop it in the tank to about 50% then turn on the pump. Fast and save water use to drain the tank. Remove the pump before refill.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

snafuspyramid said:


> But... does anyone do less than 50% water changes with EI dosing? How much less? How much have they reduced the dosing?
> 
> Not so much _how_ you do large water changes.


I stated on SOME tanks I do only once a month water change. Or some, I never do a water change...........non CO2 tanks are a good exmaple, there are trade off associated there however.

If you bother to do a water change, it pays for your labor to go big. Most of the effort is dragging the stuff out and the motivation, not the actual % change, this matters little unless you have a KH issue and use RO and have no way to store much water etc. Sort of fairly specific cases.

I just wait a few more minutes to do say 25% vs say 70%.

If you want to predict the range of build up, you can use Wet's calculator.
It models what the outcomes are for doing various % water changes and the frequencies, and the amount of ferts you wish to add, with a no# of different % uptakes.


http://wet.biggiantnerds.com/ei/con_v_time.pl

Some folks start with 50% and tapper off and and see if they can go longer without water changes, some try using less ferts.

I think if the goal is reduced frequencies, then simply slow and progressively reducing the dosing down from a non limiting upper range, to just a slight limiting range can be done with your eyes by carefully watching the plants.

You slowly and progressively reduce it down say 5% of the dosing for 2 weeks at a time and watch close.

Once you start to see negative plant responses, you bump back up to the next highest prior level. Now you no longer have to do so much water changing if you desire..........since there is minimal build up.

Now.........if you are wise..........you'd use lower light. Since less light = less CO2 demand by plants..........which also means less nutrient demand by plants...........now you have a lot of room for error and lots of wiggle room. Add some ADA AS or enriched sediment...now you have even more wiggle room with water changes and dosing the water column.

Plants are now more light limited(as are algae) and not CO2/nutrient limited.
Water changes can be reduced or avoided with much less risk. I like to do water changes to keep the tank clean and be on top of management personally, but with some tanks, I know I do not need to.

Others I prefer to keep the water changes. I clearly point this out and have for a very long time now, whether folks read this part??? That's up to them, I've never once said you have to do this or that with the % or frequencies etc.

With water restrictions in Oz.........I think many are better off using smaller tanks, or if they have larger systems, using the less light idea, less CO2 or use Excel.
then progressively reduce the dosign down, also, using sediment like mud or UpAqua! sediment would be in your best interest.

When you do a water change, drain the water for the landscape plants, house plants etc, save etc.
You can put it to good use.

I live in a similar climate to Oz.........I water the yard landscape and use about 10X less water than my neighbors.
Our water is still very cheap relatively speaking.

I would do a few things if I where you then.
Less light(save energy too)
Progressively less dosing, watch carefully to see what the tank demand is.
Sediment ferts
Drain on the yard
When water changes are done, go big. Say once a month should not be that hard to achieve using lower light/Excel and still have very good results.

This will slant everything to your advantage.
See "Dave's Dino pee" for Excel alternative also in Oz.
He's(Dave Wilson) a nice guy.

Regards, 
Tom Barr




Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

captain_bu said:


> How is your tank doing? If you see no problems why are you even concerned? Assuming your plants and tank are doing well how can it be a bad idea?


Water ain't cheap in Oz, they tend to be a bit more enlightened about water conservation than we are here in the USA. Still, the US is hardly concerned about energy or water conservation really regarding aquariums, just look at the popularity of Reef keeping

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

For me the 'religious' water change is a win-win. You are not only resetting the tank fert-wise, but your are reducing the organic content in the water. As long as your adding back in what you need the water change is clearly a good idea.

There are two types of algae, the ignorant kind (startup) and the lazy kind (6+ months after startup)


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## snafuspyramid (May 27, 2010)

I don't use very high light (108 watts four inches above a 90 gallon) and use only Dave's Dino Pee for CO2 (as well as the root tabs and other ferts he provides). I agree; he's a great guy, and really knows what he's doing. He also has some amazing native Australian fish which are impossible to buy anywhere else.

The real problem is that if I do more than a 20% water change at a time, I'm just wasting water because that's more than the garden needs (everything is native; the only thing that needs water is the strawberry barrel...) Again because of the strawberries' preferences, weekly water changes are best. Smaller water changes also mean I can just run the hose in without worrying too much about temperature fluctuations.

So I guess my best option is to slowly cut back on dosing.

Sadly, that's a bit of a pain - it means I can't use powders anymore, since I don't have any measuring instrument less than 1/8tsp. And I do like using powders...


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## barbarossa4122 (Jan 16, 2010)

Two tanks, 70% WC in just over an hour using the Python.


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## snafuspyramid (May 27, 2010)

Using Wett's calculator as Tom suggested (albeit without allowances for food/waste) I've figured out that my current dosing regime, assuming plants use 75% of available nutrient, would lead to relatively slight build up over time (15ppm over three months for KH2PO4 for example).

Even if the plants only manage to use 25% of what's available, I'd only have 30ppm excess after a full three months of uninterrupted dosing. I know that it kind of goes against the EI thing, but couldn't I just ensure I'm not reaching excessive phosphate or nitrate with test kits? Or keep an eye out for algae? What are the other symptoms of too much nutrient?

I'm not too concerned about the ingredients in Flourish building up, I'm only dosing according to the bottle's recommendations, nothing excessive.


Given the relatively small margin, could I just dose as normal and then skip a week every month to allow the plants to 'reset' the tank rather than doing a greater than 20% water change? Again this is a relatively slow growing Excel / medium light tank, so hopefully the plants will forgive a lean week.


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

I use the faucet for the hose out front of my house and then use the open/close valve on the python to hold the water in the tube, unhook the python and walk it to my pond and open the valve. It drains pretty quick since it's a 6 foot fall to the pond.



Bubba_Shrimp said:


> How do you start the siphon? Just suck water from the hose with your mouth or you have some 'squeeze' bulb or something else?


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

I use EI dosing and change 50%-ish weekly. I must say it does the trick. I pump my water out of my FX5 using the additional exit valve, and my kitchen faucet is long enough to hang off the tank rim. Bingo. 

However, I'm noticing that with the 50% water changes, my tank water is becoming...somewhat...'cloudy'....

I would assume that it should be clear..because...it's clean. Cloudy water normally means that bacteria have been removed, but I haven't done anything abnormal to the filter.

Any reason for this?


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

There could be a few reasons for that... has you tank been cycled? How long has it been running? Do you use prime or any other water conditioner when you add new water? Are you dosing right after your WCs? If so, and depending on what and how much Iron/CSM+B and KH2P04 you are dosing, you could be getting Iron precipitation. When you dose Iron and KH2P04 together have a chance of forming Iron Phosphate. That's why you should "stager" your Macro and Micro doses. Your tap water might be high in KH2P04 and then you dose Micros/Iron/CSM+B and then boom, cloudy water. Try dosing your macros first and wait a few hours or even the next day to dose Micros and see what happens.

Hope that helps!




Sharkbait-ooHAHA said:


> I use EI dosing and change 50%-ish weekly. I must say it does the trick. I pump my water out of my FX5 using the additional exit valve, and my kitchen faucet is long enough to hang off the tank rim. Bingo.
> 
> However, I'm noticing that with the 50% water changes, my tank water is becoming...somewhat...'cloudy'....
> 
> ...


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

Dempsey said:


> When you dose Iron and KH2P04 together have a chance of forming Iron Phosphate. That's why you should "stager" your Macro and Micro doses. Your tap water might be high in KH2P04 and then you dose Micros/Iron/CSM+B and then boom, cloudy water. Try dosing your macros first and wait a few hours or even the next day to dose Micros and see what happens.


Thanks Clint!

Yeah, the tank has been cycled for years, so I'm not worried about that. I used Tailored Aquatics "Vanquish" as a dechlorinator. Very good stuff made locally. Costs less than Prime and twice as strong. 

I've never heard of Iron Precipitation before - I'm guessing this is it. I currently am switching from liquid ferts to dry ferts. I'm finishing off a bottle of Brightwell Multi (Micros), Tailored Aquatics Amazon Iron (which is pretty strong stuff), but then I'm dosing Nitrate and Phosphate dry. I have CSM+B but I wanted to get rid of my liquid micros first. I dunno, I probably should just axe the liquids and just dose dry. I DO dose the micros and macros on alternating days though.

My dosing schedule is:

Sunday: Water change, Liquid Micros, Liquid Iron
Monday: KN03, KH2P04
Tuesday:Liquid Micros, Liquid Iron
Wednesday:KN03, KH2P04
Thursday:Liquid Micros, Liquid Iron
Friday:KN03, KH2P04
Saturday: Nothing. Sit back and enjoy.

I hate wasting product, but if this is the problem, I'll dose dry only. 

I'd really like to solve this, because I'm a stickler for a clean tank, and a haze in the water needs to fixed!


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

No problem! I see 2 problems at first glance. You are dosing micros on WC day. I do this also BUT, I wait a while after the WC just to be safe. EI suggests that you only dose Macros, not Micros on WC day. Part of the reason behind that is Iron precipitation. I would switch your macro and micro days.

Seeing that today is your WC day, as is mine, I would start today. Just dose Macros today and then dose Micros/Iron tomorrow. I am willing to bet that you will have clear water.

Second, you are not dosing k2s04 or GH booster. Depending on the parameters of your tap water I would start adding one or the other on your macro days also. I personally dose both. Dry k2s04 and Seachem Equilibrium. Not that you have to do both but since I have a "hookup" at a LFS, I get the Equilibrium for trading some clippings. It doesn't hurt with my parameters to dose both.

Keep us posted!

Oh yeah, you don't have to waste your other ferts. Might as well use them up as they don't last that long anyways.... ;-)



Sharkbait-ooHAHA said:


> Thanks Clint!
> 
> Yeah, the tank has been cycled for years, so I'm not worried about that. I used Tailored Aquatics "Vanquish" as a dechlorinator. Very good stuff made locally. Costs less than Prime and twice as strong.
> 
> ...


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

Dempsey said:


> Seeing that today is your WC day, as is mine, I would start today. Just dose Macros today and then dose Micros/Iron tomorrow. I am willing to bet that you will have clear water.
> 
> Second, you are not dosing k2s04 or GH booster. Depending on the parameters of your tap water I would start adding one or the other on your macro days also.


Hey Clint! Thanks for the advice. It's odd, because I got my dosing schedule from the chemist that makes the dry ferts. I'll try it your way and see how it goes - it seems you've experienced this before, so if this is all I have to do, that'd be a nice easy fix.

What does k2s04 and GH booster do? These are available to me, I just didn't think I needed them. 

I'm curious now about what happens during the process of Iron Precipitation - I swear, the more I learn about this hobby, the more I feel I should be awarded a degree in water chemistry.


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

I know what you mean.... Once you figure your tap water/ferts/plants/bio load, etc, it gets easier.

k2s04 is potassium sulfate. You can get extra potassium from a GH booster also. Plants need NPK(macros) and trace/CSM+B/Iron, etc(micros)

NPK:

KN03, Potassium Nitrate
KH2P04, Mono Potassium Phosphate 
K2S04, Potassium Sulfate 

Depending on your tank size, lights, co2 or non, etc... You might not need to dose extra potassium by means of k2s04 or a GH booster. It doesn't hurt though.

Iron precipitation happens when you dose Iron/CSM+B and KH2P04 together. It can cause the formation of Iron Phosphate. Iron phosphate has a hard time dissolving in water. So the cloudy water hangs around for a while sometimes even until the next WC.

Yeah this has happened to me. I used to dose in a similar way you do.




Sharkbait-ooHAHA said:


> Hey Clint! Thanks for the advice. It's odd, because I got my dosing schedule from the chemist that makes the dry ferts. I'll try it your way and see how it goes - it seems you've experienced this before, so if this is all I have to do, that'd be a nice easy fix.
> 
> What does k2s04 and GH booster do? These are available to me, I just didn't think I needed them.
> 
> I'm curious now about what happens during the process of Iron Precipitation - I swear, the more I learn about this hobby, the more I feel I should be awarded a degree in water chemistry.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

BC water is super soft, low GH/KH, so you can use any trace mix without worry, no precipitation is going to occur.

There's a local club that's pretty good there in Vanco, migght seek some ferts and help, friends there in that club.

Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## snafuspyramid (May 27, 2010)

I had the same issue. But I'm dosing a very small amount, so I'd be surprised if that were the issue. Also my water is super-soft.

Sometimes your tap water is not as clear as you'd expect.

I now use Purigen to clear up the murkiness, which lasts about eight hours after each water change. The more water I change, the cloudier it becomes.

I'm honestly not sure what's in the tap water, given its very low hardness. But Purigen works a treat (where carbon and flocculents don't).


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

snafuspyramid said:


> I now use Purigen to clear up the murkiness, which lasts about eight hours after each water change. The more water I change, the cloudier it becomes.



I use purigen as well. But I find that it still isn't as clear as I'd like it to be. There is still a slight haze. It's good to know I'm not the only one out there with this issue.

Yes, the water here in BC is very soft. Very nice for Discus


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

plantbrain said:


> BC water is super soft, low GH/KH, so you can use any trace mix without worry, no precipitation is going to occur.


Yeah, I get my dry ferts from Tim Burton at Aquaflora Nurseries. 
I think I'll talk him up a bit and see if he knows anything.

If you say I shouldn't be worried about the trace and that no precipitation is going to happen....I'm still left wondering what it is....

HMMMMM


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

If you use good quality lower range lighting(say T5's), good CO2, then nutrients should be very easy....simple.........if not.....then you likely are not looking good at the light or CO2 most likely. In otherwords, the nutrients are independent, but maybe the CO2 is not.......this is common and harder to rule out than say nutrients, which any aquarist can easily rule out, therein lies the power of water change + dosing thereafter. Hardly some new idea, but folks seem to credit me with it for plant dosing.

I'd add some GH booster though for soft tap water.


Regards, 
Tom Barr


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

Tom, do you think it could still be precipitation? One thing we didn't ask was how much he was dosing and what the tank size is. I love hearing your feed back as I get most of my info from you. Now, with me not knowing the params of his tap water, would iron precipitation be the first guess with his dosing schedule? I know at least where I am and my tap water, it is. 

Thanks,Tom 
Clint

Sorry for any typos. I am using my phone since internet is down on my block.....
And I'm using my phone.


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

90 gallon tank
Tap PH is 7.0 (don't have other params at the moment)
I dose 1 tsp of KN03, 1/8 tsp of K2P04, and 2 caps of the liquids (which I don't have measurements on me) on the required days


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

Do you mean kh2p04? Are you dosing 3 times a week?




Sharkbait-ooHAHA said:


> 90 gallon tank
> Tap PH is 7.0 (don't have other params at the moment)
> I dose 1 tsp of KN03, 1/8 tsp of K2P04, and 2 caps of the liquids (which I don't have measurements on me) on the required days


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

Dempsey said:


> Do you mean kh2p04? Are you dosing 3 times a week?


Yeah, sorry, KH2P04...

and yes, 3 times a week.


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## Dempsey (Oct 27, 2009)

Did you dose macros like I said, today? If so, let's see how that works....


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## Sharkbait-ooHAHA (Sep 15, 2010)

After the water change, the water did clear up some, but it still has a slight haze to it.

I think it might be a combination of too much iron, and possibly overfeeding the fish.


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