# 80 gallon crypt tank.



## LonghornGardens (Jul 26, 2013)

That is going to look great when it matures a bit. 

I just set up a 15 gallon tank for my daughter using eco-complete.  I used tank water from an established tank and a dirty filter. I have not got a light for it yet. I have that same white stuff growing on the substrate. I had never seen or heard of it before.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

Thank you. I sure hope it looks good. I hope some of the random plants I got are some reds. 

I'm guessing it has to do with similar substrates. I seen it happen to people that use sand as well. I'm gonna to do another water change today.


----------



## tharsis (Oct 9, 2009)

Looks like it'll be a crypt heaven! 

Bummer about the algae etc, it is a pain to go through new tank syndrome. 

What size whole house filter did you get?


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

tharsis said:


> Looks like it'll be a crypt heaven!
> 
> Bummer about the algae etc, it is a pain to go through new tank syndrome.
> 
> What size whole house filter did you get?


I got the pentek 3g 20" clear housing. I'm hoping the longing housing allows or the bubble to diffuse better.

Hopefully it come with the cap tomorrow.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/09/17 *

My replacement order for the filter housing came in. It too was missing the blue cap. I won't be ordering a second one from amazon again. I don't know what's up with it not being included in the box. This is a real set back as I really would like to add CO2. I'm going to have to buy one local that's smaller, which I understand produces many bubbles.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/09/18 *



















Finished my DIY cerges reactor. Also finally got some CO2 going. I hope everything is working correctly. I have the valve slightly closed o. The output side to build up pressure to dissolve the CO2. Everything is finally finished now, well at at least so far. 

My next task is to get rid of the surface film that keeps coming back.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

Looking good so far.

Your co2 working pretty is looking pretty high, I would suggest 10-15 psi.

My crypt type is just now done melting and starting to actually grow quite well. Took a few months for things to take hold. I still have a bit of algae but if it mature and plants keep growing am sure it will be all good. I keep aggressively cutting any leave with algae, they are generally the older leaves.


----------



## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

Nice to see everything coming together.

That SunSun canister filter comes with a surface skimmer, not sure if you will end up losing much co2 though. The surface protein scum lessen atmosphere exchange, so less co2 loss, but also less o2 dissolving into the tank for fish and less light penetration.
The surface skimmer should be worth it installing though, shouldn't loss much co2 at all.

If you have shrimp or snails, you probably could throw them in there, they will eat that white growth stuff and since they produce sooooo little amount of bioload, and with the large water volume, the uncycled filter won't matter. I think the white stuff is like driftwood slime, just microorganisms growing because of the excess whatever it is, in the water, but once the supply runs out or the plants out compete it, it will go away.

The co2 is good, probably will get less melting.
Newbie to co2, but I think since you have no fish in the tank, you can go full strength co2 (30 PSI the common target?) and not need to slowly increase. I am new though, so could be completely wrong on that. Haha.

Nice work.

EDIT:
Oh, I see you mentioned you have charcoal in the filter. I believe that will absorb some of the nutrients that the plants want. Not sure if it helps much to clear the water up or not.

You might also want a additional circulation pump going just to better disperse the co2 throughout the whole tank better. Less dead spots and better growth for all plants. Especially once all the plants get larger, further blocking circulation.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

Thank you for the feedback. I lowered the psi of the CO2 to around 15psi. I realized that I need a timer to shut off the CO2 at night. Would be easier than unplugging every night.

I added the charcoal to get rid of the smell from the dirt breaking down. If it removes some excess nutrients then that would be fine. I'm not dosing anything as of yet. Hopefully that robs the bacteria colony of food. 

If I could find some shrimp to eat it then I will add some.


----------



## HybridHerp (May 24, 2012)

What are the dimensions on the tank? I ask because I wonder how a single Planted Plus is going to do as far as light spread on a tank like this...granted you're mostly growing crypts so it should be fine.

Any pics of the mystery plants? We can try and ID them for you haha

This is going to look sick when all the plants mature in a few months. You should think about getting some of the rarer crypt varieties too if these all do well for you...may as well get some fancy stuff if its going to be all crypts right? There are some crazy looking species and varieties out there.

Also, idk if you're going to have this issue or not, but I've always felt that certain crypts look very similar to each other and that mixing them in the same tank might be a pain because it'd be hard to tell which variety is which variety sometimes. At least thats why I avoid mixing different wendtii together (shrug).


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

HybridHerp said:


> What are the dimensions on the tank? I ask because I wonder how a single Planted Plus is going to do as far as light spread on a tank like this...granted you're mostly growing crypts so it should be fine.
> 
> Any pics of the mystery plants? We can try and ID them for you haha
> 
> ...



I don't know the dimension of the tank. I will try to measure it tomorrow. I was thinking about getting another one just in case. I will see how well they do once they start to grow in. I do want the reds to grow in. I ordered some wendtii red, but none of them look red now. Hopefully that change. 

So far all of the leaves look like that were grown out of water, which they probably were. Many have melted away now. I'm removing the dead leaves later on tonight. I guess the mystery plants will remain so until they grow. 

I will probably add some more crypts in the future. I believe I will have some extra room. I still have some bare spots. I would like some more rare crypts. So far the rarest I have so far is Cryptocoryne Usteriana x wendtii. 

You are rights about them looking similar. I thought about that after I planted them. I should have recorded them and their locations.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

Wendtii red and brown are the same plant I am pretty sure. The top of the leaves will be a dark brown and the underside looks reddish in color. 

If you want a red crypt you should get wendtii green gecko.

I use a single planted plus in my 75g and my green gecko has a lot of red. I find good ferts plus co2 is more important than light with it comes to this crypt. I have a ton of floaters too and my plants still look and grow very well. 

Affins metallic red is another one to look for, and flamingo. They will add some nice color. Dont forget about nurii and tropica.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/09/21 *

The white growth on the substrate is dying back. I don't know if it's the CO2 that's killing it. I'm guessing the bacteria colony is getting gasses since the crypts are still going there the melting phase. Also I noticed that nematodes have started to crawl out of the substrate for more oxygen.


----------



## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

You can cut off the melting leaves since they won't recover and then the regrowing new leaves process will begin sooner (no wasted energy on trying to keep quickly melting leaves alive).

Now's the time to get the co2 level in balance.

I read your other comment on a cerges reactor being ran with just your one 404b, the video link you mentioned, the guy was using a weak 302b model and so he needed two.
The 404b should create enough pressure.

What size filter housing did you go with for the 80 gallon tank? Any co2 bubbles coming out?


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

WaterLife said:


> You can cut off the melting leaves since they won't recover and then the regrowing new leaves process will begin sooner (no wasted energy on trying to keep quickly melting leaves alive).
> 
> Now's the time to get the co2 level in balance.
> 
> ...


I should just trim all the leaves at once. I was hoping that any that weren't melting would be producing energy until then. I haven't noticed any pearling so maybe those leave are done for anyways. I shall trim them all today.

The tiger lotus that I added is starting to send out roots. I know that once those hit dirt it will take off.

As for the CO2 I'm still trying to find that sweet spot. I went with the 10 inch GE housing. I ordered two 20 inch housing from amazon, but neither came with a top. I'm still seeing bubbles coming out even with the valve somewhat shut. Oneday I will order another 20 inch housing from another site and sell the smaller one on this forum.


----------



## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

Patriot said:


> I should just trim all the leaves at once. I was hoping that any that weren't melting would be producing energy until then. I haven't noticed any pearling so maybe those leave are done for anyways. I shall trim them all today.




Oh no, not sure that is a good idea to trim all the leaves off. Could quite possibly kill the plant entirely cutting off all the leaves on a already "weakened" melting plant going through a transition. Doubt a easy to keep plant like Crypts would die entirely though, I'm sure new leaves would sprout up, but might be a longer process than leaving the good leaves uncut.


But I doubt cutting all the leaves is the best decision. On a Java fern or Anubias with all bad leaves that might be a good choice to cut all the ugly poor shape leaves, but the crypts I think would be best to just cut the melting ones and leave the rest of the non-melted ones alone, as the healthy leaves DO still "collect" energy for the plant, but if all leaves are melting then I guess there really is no choice.


Just my opinion though, can't say I've tried cutting all the leaves off a crypt at once. Hopefully other can chime in before a decision is made.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

WaterLife said:


> Oh no, not sure that is a good idea to trim all the leaves off. Could quite possibly kill the plant entirely cutting off all the leaves on a already "weakened" melting plant going through a transition. Doubt a easy to keep plant like Crypts would die entirely though, I'm sure new leaves would sprout up, but might be a longer process than leaving the good leaves uncut.
> 
> 
> But I doubt cutting all the leaves is the best decision. On a Java fern or Anubias with all bad leaves that might be a good choice to cut all the ugly poor shape leaves, but the crypts I think would be best to just cut the melting ones and leave the rest of the non-melted ones alone, as the healthy leaves DO still "collect" energy for the plant, but if all leaves are melting then I guess there really is no choice.
> ...


I just finished trimming out the leaves. I will just trim as I go. I do see new leaves starting to grow. One thing I noticed is that the water is cold. Probably too cold for the crypts to grow like they want. I will have to look for a good inline heater. I heard that many fail early.


----------



## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

I've never used a inline heater before so you might want to post a seperate thread regarding those.

Eheim Jager heaters are accurate and long lasting, mount one near the filter outlet and mount it diagonally for the most efficient heating dispersion throughtout the whole tank.


----------



## pianofish (Jan 31, 2010)

I've used an inline heater for years and never had a problem with them. They actually work exceptionally well. +1 for as little equipment in the display as possible 

Tank looks great my friend. Good job, and good plant choice with crypts. You can't go wrong with them.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

In my crypt tank I use a 300 inline hydor, the unit is solid! Holds the temp right on spot and hasn't failed yet (~1year old).

I am keeping my tank at 75f which is good but I am not sure if its optimal for growth. What temp do you keep in your tank? Got any updates pics?


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

philipraposo1982 said:


> In my crypt tank I use a 300 inline hydor, the unit is solid! Holds the temp right on spot and hasn't failed yet (~1year old).
> 
> I am keeping my tank at 75f which is good but I am not sure if its optimal for growth. What temp do you keep in your tank? Got any updates pics?


I will check that unit out. Currently the tank should be room temperature which is about 70°F. But it feels colder when I put my hand in the tank. I don't have any pictures yet as nothing changed yet. Crypts are still alive so that's good haha.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/09/25*

Did a major WC and cleaned up debris floating in tank. 

I noticed brown algae starting to grow in the tank. Along with brown thread algae or hair algae. To help fight I'm going to do a three day blackout period to see if things clear up.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/09/28 *

I noticed that the tiger lotus have advanced more in the soil. The leaves are recognizable










I'm also still fighting the white growth on the substrate. I will be so happy when the tank finally matures.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/10/06*

*Bad News*

Brown algae has starting to take over the tank despite the water changes. It's starting to look like a diatom Apocalypse. 
I really didn't want to add any fauna yet, but I looks like I will have to add some Amano shrimp and Otos to eat this stuff. 
I don't believe the water changes are helping too much due to the fact my water probably has silicate in it. 

*Good News*

I checked on the bottom of the aquarium and I can see roots spreading. Knowing that I now know the crypts are do great. Hopefully the roots destroy some of the air pockets in the soil. The crypt melt has stopped or slowed down to a point where I can't notice it.


----------



## nbr1rodeoclown (Feb 6, 2015)

poke your soil with a kabob skewer. gets rid of gasses and doesn't disturb dirt too much.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

nbr1rodeoclown said:


> poke your soil with a kabob skewer. gets rid of gasses and doesn't disturb dirt too much.


I have been doing that. I just think not enough water gets down to fill when I poke around.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/10/18*

*Bad News*

My tank is going down hill. The brown algae turned out to be Rhizoclonium. This stuff took over the tank almost over night. It turned green and now the water is developing a smell. I did two 80% water changes and nothing. Im at a lost right now. The otos that I put int he tank to keep it clean died. 

I need to find out what it turning my water cloudy and giving it the smell. I'm trying to finish the black out period to get rid of the Rhizoclonium. From the information given online it grows from low Co2 levels. I plan on building a new reactor using a 20" housing instead of a 10".

*Good New*
The crypts are growing fine. The red lotus is turning a dark red.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

Swapped out my 10 inch housing for a 20 inch housing. Hopefully it will improve CO2 diffusion.


----------



## tharsis (Oct 9, 2009)

oh man, sorry to hear about all the troubles. I hope you have more success with the 20" housing it looks pretty bad ass! 

I am wondering if some of your issues is due to not enough plant mass? The crypts are fairly slow growers and they are still small, and they are heavy root feeders... is it possible that you need some faster growing stems in there until the crypts take off and get bigger?


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

tharsis said:


> oh man, sorry to hear about all the troubles. I hope you have more success with the 20" housing it looks pretty bad ass!
> 
> I am wondering if some of your issues is due to not enough plant mass? The crypts are fairly slow growers and they are still small, and they are heavy root feeders... is it possible that you need some faster growing stems in there until the crypts take off and get bigger?


I think your right about the slow going crypts causing the problem. I will try to find some that grows fast until the crypts are fully grown in.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

I was having a similar issue with bba. Little bit of gsa on glass and rocks too.

But since adding a ton of floaters my issues went away. With an all crypt tank you can't have a lot of light and co2 etc. The crypts won't outcompete algae. You need to have some fast growing plant in there. I am going with s. Repens as a carpet for the for ground, and until I get it thriving I will keep my duckweed.


----------



## Hardstuff (Oct 13, 2012)

I believe the 10 inch housing was fine. Forgive me if I missed the part about how you are diffusing the gas but I would recommend Running 30-35 psi running an inline atomic diffuser. Inline atomic diffusers need high pressure to run properly. If you are running straight bubbles without pre diffusing into the reactor you are wasting a lot of gas and getting poor diffusion! I am currently experimenting on covering my reactor since they can be exposed to light and sudden CO2 surges! 
My cerges works well with an inline diffuser + counter current tube inside the reactor. Dial in the CO2 to around 30ppms according to your Kh values and keep it steady. I would also recommend doing the water changes at night or early in the morning well before lights on.
Yes I also agree that adding some fast growing stems like 10 -15 Bocopa's will help. I would cool it with lots of big water changes since this could cause BBA to show its ugly self running the risk of more frequent CO2 fluctuations. The diatoms will over run a newish tank. I have found root tabs and adding extra nutrients to dirted tanks problematic to livestock as well as plants, even researching the best clays to use, Im not sold. 
Stay with it. It will settle in. Hope this hepls


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

You dont need a inline diffuser prior to a reactor... I run a 20" housing on my 75g with perfect diffusion.

Many folks run reactors with nothing else with great success.

Water changes are never a bad thing and will not cause bba... This is poor advice from someone who doesn't understand the root cause of bba. If this were the case then my 10g with 50% water changes each day or every other day would be overruled with bba. But in fact you can't find a spec of algae in that tank.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

philipraposo1982 said:


> You dont need a inline diffuser prior to a reactor... I run a 20" housing on my 75g with perfect diffusion.
> 
> Many folks run reactors with nothing else with great success.
> 
> Water changes are never a bad thing and will not cause bba... This is poor advice from someone who doesn't understand the root cause of bba. If this were the case then my 10g with 50% water changes each day or every other day would be overruled with bba. But in fact you can't find a spec of algae in that tank.



What do you have your Psi set at for the 20" housing?


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

Hardstuff said:


> I believe the 10 inch housing was fine. Forgive me if I missed the part about how you are diffusing the gas but I would recommend Running 30-35 psi running an inline atomic diffuser. Inline atomic diffusers need high pressure to run properly. If you are running straight bubbles without pre diffusing into the reactor you are wasting a lot of gas and getting poor diffusion! I am currently experimenting on covering my reactor since they can be exposed to light and sudden CO2 surges!
> My cerges works well with an inline diffuser + counter current tube inside the reactor. Dial in the CO2 to around 30ppms according to your Kh values and keep it steady. I would also recommend doing the water changes at night or early in the morning well before lights on.
> Yes I also agree that adding some fast growing stems like 10 -15 Bocopa's will help. I would cool it with lots of big water changes since this could cause BBA to show its ugly self running the risk of more frequent CO2 fluctuations. The diatoms will over run a newish tank. I have found root tabs and adding extra nutrients to dirted tanks problematic to livestock as well as plants, even researching the best clays to use, Im not sold.
> Stay with it. It will settle in. Hope this hepls


The reason I changed out the housing was because I kept getting bubbles in the tank. I figures the filter was moving the water faster than the Co2 could diffuse in the small housing. I also kept seeing mix opinions on using a inline diffuser before the reactor. Many were saying that it wasn't needed.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

The tiger lotus is growing fast. The plant is sending pads up to the water surface which is getting tangled in the current. I have no choice but to trim, they would look better compartment anyways. The algae is dying back slowly. 

I'm still waiting on my nitrates and nitrites to drop to zero. Maybe ore crypts will be added to help absorb some.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/11/4 *
























Got a new crypt. This thing is huge!! Gonna take some time to figure out where to put it.

I also added some red root floaters to help with algae.


----------



## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

That is massive!
What kind is it?

Does that happen to be one that was for sale on this forum recently?


----------



## nbr1rodeoclown (Feb 6, 2015)

I always get a bit of algae when doing primarily crypts. Instead of throwing some stems in, if you really want to stay with crypts just get some good temporary floaters. I had salvinia over 3/4 of my 65 crypt tank until the crypts really got established.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

nbr1rodeoclown said:


> I always get a bit of algae when doing primarily crypts. Instead of throwing some stems in, if you really want to stay with crypts just get some good temporary floaters. I had salvinia over 3/4 of my 65 crypt tank until the crypts really got established.


I actually just added about two cups of red root floaters today. I forgot to post that info. However I don't know how they fair with the current. They are getting tossed around.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

WaterLife said:


> That is massive!
> What kind is it?
> 
> Does that happen to be one that was for sale on this forum recently?


It's cryptocoryne usteriana. 

I don't know if it was on this forum for sale. I got this from the other forum. 

Now I have both usteriana and usteriana x walkeri. 

I have no ideal where I'm going to put it.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

nbr1rodeoclown said:


> I always get a bit of algae when doing primarily crypts. Instead of throwing some stems in, if you really want to stay with crypts just get some good temporary floaters. I had salvinia over 3/4 of my 65 crypt tank until the crypts really got established.


I am currently using duckweed in my crypt tank to avoid algae.


----------



## WaterLife (Jul 1, 2015)

Red Root Floaters and most other floaters don't really do well getting constantly tumbled under water.
One floater that does do well in fast currents is Dwarf Water Lettuce (be aware their roots get huge).

You can make a "surface wave break" using some airline tubing (you can use suction cups w/ airline holder clips and airline connectors to hold the device in place) to calm the flow in a area and to corral the floaters in a gentler flow area (also works in limiting the space/surface they can occupy if you don't want them spreading runners over the entire water surface).


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

I will try that


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/11/06*

I drained the tank to do another water change. While I did that I trimmed up the crypt usteriana by removing the damaged leaves and stems. It became obvious that this plant was grown in rocks half way buried. The roots that was above the gravel were green and rocks were in the roots. 

I cut the rhizome in half hoping to produce another plant from it. I couldn't bury it without cutting it in half.

I also realize way the tank looked so empty after planting it heavily. I found some dead rotting rhizomes of cry buried a bit too deep or those that didn't make it. 



























This is the rhizome cut in half. Hopefully I can make a new plant to share on the forum.


----------



## pauly (Oct 20, 2015)

looks great.love the sun sun canister filters.cant wait to see it in the future.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

I think if you want that other end to start a new plant, I would start it off in a zip lock bag with damp paper towel wrapped around and placed by a window. 

I get lucky the odd time .in the tank with a old piece that's been cut and starts a new plant, but most times it just rots away.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

philipraposo1982 said:


> I think if you want that other end to start a new plant, I would start it off in a zip lock bag with damp paper towel wrapped around and placed by a window.
> 
> I get lucky the odd time .in the tank with a old piece that's been cut and starts a new plant, but most times it just rots away.


Thank for that information. I will try that. How often do you open the bag to give it more air?


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

I just leave a small part of it open all the time.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

*2015/12/18 *










My algae problem is starting to become under control after I started giving my tank some more fertilizers. I started to use a macro micro mixture and the plants love it. I also turned up the CO2 to go along with the increase in fertilizers. 

The challenge now is to clean the gravel of the dead algae and rotting leaves. I can't wait for my gravel to be nice a clean. 

I'm still getting more and more crypts slowing to add to fill in the empty spaces. 

I'm thinking of adding another light with more red in the color spectrum. It would most likely be too muh light so I might just switch them. I still have time to see how many red crypts grow in. 

Still can wait to add fish.


----------



## sushant (Mar 3, 2007)

This looks a lot like when I started my tank. A little gravel vacuuming will making the tank sparkling clean.

Sent from my PadFone using Tapatalk


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

2016/01/18 

I added some guppies last month. They are still alive and doing well. I also added some shrimp who ended up dying 3 days later. I believe the ammonia was rinsing due to the melting crypts. 
I'm still waiting for the melting phase to stop and stabilize. I decided to stop rising my GH since my tap water is around 8. 

I do plan on upgrading the filter to a FX6. I have too many dead spots in the tank were debris is gathering. BBA is also starting to make these areas home. I don't know how or if it's possible to use the CO2 reactor with the FX6.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

2016-02-04 































The red lotus are turning a dark red color. Slowly but surely. This might be due to the extra light I added. I got a hold of a 4 bulb Catalina T5ho fixture. That with the finnex planted plus gave this tank a high light rating. Hoping the lotus now stays compact.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

With all that light are you worried about algae? Crypts being slower growers could be a problem.

Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

philipraposo1982 said:


> With all that light are you worried about algae? Crypts being slower growers could be a problem.
> 
> Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk


I make sure the light are only on got 6 hours. I have seen too much algae since the light was added. I think the co2 keep it down.


----------



## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

That's good, I feel with my single finnex planted plus I am on the low end of lighting but most my crypts still do very well. I have a few harder to grow stem plants in the back that I want to use as background. They could use a bit more light but even with the one fixture they do quite well. Once they get taller I suspect even better results.

How much are you dosing in terms of ferts? 
Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk


----------



## nanoguy (Mar 12, 2006)

I have the FX6 on my 120g 5 foot tank and it puts out a ton of water but doesn't really reach the opposite side. I wish I would have gone with two 406s instead to have a flow nozzle on each side. As it sits I need to add a power head or another filter anyways plus the FX6 hose is huge and corrugated so I'm not sure (like you) how feasible it is to add online equipment. I'm leaning towards adding a 406 for flow and equipment.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

philipraposo1982 said:


> That's good, I feel with my single finnex planted plus I am on the low end of lighting but most my crypts still do very well. I have a few harder to grow stem plants in the back that I want to use as background. They could use a bit more light but even with the one fixture they do quite well. Once they get taller I suspect even better results.
> 
> How much are you dosing in terms of ferts?
> Sent from my SM-N900W8 using Tapatalk


As for dosing I just pour maybe 1/8 cup of liquid ferts. I use a macro/micro mixture. I just put new root tabs in the substrate about five days ago. I made my own osmocote tabs.


----------



## Patriot (Dec 22, 2010)

nanoguy said:


> I have the FX6 on my 120g 5 foot tank and it puts out a ton of water but doesn't really reach the opposite side. I wish I would have gone with two 406s instead to have a flow nozzle on each side. As it sits I need to add a power head or another filter anyways plus the FX6 hose is huge and corrugated so I'm not sure (like you) how feasible it is to add online equipment. I'm leaning towards adding a 406 for flow and equipment.


I adding another way to move water is a good ideal. I found out that the sponge in the reactor was slowing to flow. Now my plants are doing better due to increased co2 delivery. The shrimp are happy because ammonia is down. That sponge was causing my tank to crash and grow algae. I basically had stagnant water. 

If you need another filter I would add that over a powerhead. I get scared the one I have will suck in my shrimp and small fish.


----------



## nanoguy (Mar 12, 2006)

Patriot said:


> I adding another way to move water is a good ideal. I found out that the sponge in the reactor was slowing to flow. Now my plants are doing better due to increased co2 delivery. The shrimp are happy because ammonia is down. That sponge was causing my tank to crash and grow algae. I basically had stagnant water.
> 
> If you need another filter I would add that over a powerhead. I get scared the one I have will suck in my shrimp and small fish.


Depending on the powerhead used I don't see much of an issue with fish getting sucked in. Had plenty of them in my old reef tanks and the only time it might be a problem is if they didn't run all the time. While they are off (some types) blennies, gobies and some shrimp like to hide inside. Then when they come on its fish/shrimp salad. 

Anemones on the other hand seem to be drawn to them like hipsters to a Goodwill, then there is a big mess.

Anyways, I agree with your assessment that another filter would be both better for the tank and more useful.


----------

