# Recommended Heaters



## kookyxogirl (Nov 13, 2017)

Hi, I have had several heaters through the years and the Cobalt Neo-Therm has lasted 3 yrs with no problems. Amazon sells them but they are expensive but I think definitely worth it. Good luck! 


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

I have more of a informational post about heaters. If that's okay.

First off there are two types of heaters. Mosfet Chip (chip that toggles power) with a digital thermostat controller board, and a bimetal mechanical switch (metal plate with two metals on it with a contact, of which expand and contracts at different temps bending the strip into the contacts to turn off and on). Both have their own pro's and con's. Both would work great if made properly. But Ill go through why they both can fail.

Mosfet chips burn out at low temperatures and get damaged when over-heated to be soldered, So right away they aren't the right approach to a heater that gets quite hot inside unless its insulated away from the heater element, but heat rises. When a mosfet burns out, it stays on, cooking your tank. Some manufacturers use cheap underrated/under-spec or even mislabeled/fake mosfet chips to cut costs. Causing them to fail and overheat uncontrollably.

Mechanical heaters have been around much longer than I've been in the hobby, they used to be more reliable when they were made to higher standards. The contacts of them should be oiled (oiling helps prevent sticking and tends to make a slight fog inside a heater, its not water) The contact points also need to be a metal that melts at a high point to prevent them from sticking together from the slight arc when connecting. When they stick a little bit they still are able to pop back apart but it takes more heat, making the temp gap larger until it sticks for good and leaves the heater stuck on. Many heaters use the same switch for all their watt versions, meaning they tend to fail faster at higher watts unless they are designed for the watts they will handle. If you look at reviews of heaters on amazon, you'll notice worse reviews on higher watt heaters because of this for some brands. If you have a mechanical heater and it starts having a large temperature gap, get a replacement quickly.

They make heater controllers but those are used for larger tanks. You can set the controller to stop at like 78deg then the heater can be set to shut down at 82deg to cut off if the controller fails, or vice versa. I think they are used for big show tanks at commercial facilities where stability over a long time is important. They cost a fair amount tho last I checked.

I also faintly remember hearing about heaters being purged with a gas or vacuumed seals for some important reason... But i dont want to talk out of my bum if I'm not 100% sure. Maybe had something about expansion of air popping heaters or something with heat transfer... 

All the info I provided above is what I have gathered over the years and I hope is mostly accurate. If I had a to use a 300w heater i would use a controller rated for that power and a Eheim Jager heater set above the controller as its own fail safe if the controller fails.

It's really sad and messed up that budget cuts are screwing hobbyists over the years.


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## Socratic monologue (Dec 8, 2008)

I second the Neotherm recommendation. I've had two for a couple years with no issues; I've had chronic failures from all other all-in-one heaters (since the green Ebo Jagers of times past, that is). 

Best bet is a titanium element (or better: two) run by a reliable digital thermostat (or better: Apex).


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## Jeffww (Aug 6, 2010)

I use whatever fits in my tank and has enough wattage. Save on the heater and buy a nice controller. I use a "Bayite" one from amazon. After several heater failures (thankfully in the off setting) over the years, I will never operate a tank without a temp controller again. 

What's worse? Losing hundreds if not thousands of dollars in live stock and plants or spending an extra 50 dollars on a quality controller?


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

LilysDad said:


> It seems that I can never find a heater that is durable. Once again my heater has died. I need a 300w unit. Can anyone suggest a brand of heater that has lasted for you?


Hi @LilysDad,

I wish I could speak as highly about the Neotherm heaters as the previous posters on this thread but I cannot. A couple of weeks ago I was visiting with one of our local aquarium club members that has +/- 46 tanks. He has searched for a reliable, accurate heater for years. He tried Neotherm a few years ago and thought he had found a winner however he has had to replace 30% plus of the units. The worst part is that they can fail in the "on" position and resulting in 'cooking' a breeding tank of very expensive "L-???" plecos. Neotherm does honor the warranty but you have to be without a heater for some time which can be an issue in a fish room with fry tanks.

I personally have used Marineland Precision Submersible Heaters for several years. I wish I could recommend them but I cannot. After a period of time they have developed leaks allowing water to enter the tube causing electrical shocks and unit failure. Marineland also provided warranty replacements, however over time they leaked as well.

Actually, the heater that has impressed me the most in the last 10 years has been the Hydor ETH In-line heaters. They have been accurate and reliable with no failures or temperature fluctuations. My oldest unit is 5 years and is going strong. I have not tried the Hydor Theo in tank heaters, but they will replace the next Marineland when (not if) it fails.


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## LilysDad (Feb 16, 2020)

Would a person be better off using two 150w heaters instead of a 300w? I doubt that both units would go out at the same time and if one stuck on it would be less heat.


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## Leeatl (Aug 8, 2015)

I use and like Eheim/Jager heaters and I use Inkbird controllers . I would use 2 just for redundancy .


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## Seattle_Aquarist (Jun 15, 2008)

LilysDad said:


> Would a person be better off using two 150w heaters instead of a 300w? I doubt that both units would go out at the same time and if one stuck on it would be less heat.


Hi LilysDad,

That certainly is an option.


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## Greggz (May 19, 2008)

Seattle_Aquarist said:


> Actually, the heater that has impressed me the most in the last 10 years has been the Hydor ETH In-line heaters. They have been accurate and reliable with no failures or temperature fluctuations. My oldest unit is 5 years and is going strong.


+1.

Have been very reliable, and also don't clutter up the tank. 

Highly recommended.


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## kookyxogirl (Nov 13, 2017)

Hello,
I have 2 of Cobalt neo- therm heaters in one tank and just purchased the inkbird 306T for safety but I am lost trying to set the inkbird up, the flow chart is to confusing. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it. 
I just want my temp at 79 degrees F, 24/7. I’m also confused as what temp I keep the heaters at? I have both heaters at each end of the tank so where is the best spot to put the inkbird aquarium probe? Thank you [emoji4] 


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## xjclassic (Aug 14, 2010)

The heater that has impressed me the most is the Fluval M Series. They are accurate and blend in well with a planted tank. The two I have are going on about 7 years us steady use. I have used Eheim heaters and they are good. If I need to replace an intank heater it will be another Fluval.

The Hydor in line heater is very nice but I have only been using it for about 6 months. If you have a canister definitely worth looking into.


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## BeastlyFern (May 11, 2019)

kookyxogirl said:


> Hello,
> I have 2 of Cobalt neo- therm heaters in one tank and just purchased the inkbird 306T for safety but I am lost trying to set the inkbird up, the flow chart is to confusing. If anyone can help me I would appreciate it.
> I just want my temp at 79 degrees F, 24/7. I’m also confused as what temp I keep the heaters at? I have both heaters at each end of the tank so where is the best spot to put the inkbird aquarium probe? Thank you [emoji4]
> 
> ...


 @kookyxogirl

Found this video on youtube, should help


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## Socratic monologue (Dec 8, 2008)

LilysDad said:


> Would a person be better off using two 150w heaters instead of a 300w? I doubt that both units would go out at the same time and if one stuck on it would be less heat.


Yes, that's why I recommended two titanium elements; if one quits, the other can keep the temp from getting too low (having a web-enabled controller, and/or one with energy use logging, can alert you to this issue). Simple elements cannot fail 'on', only 'off'.

The issue with running two heaters each with their own thermostat is that almost inevitably, one wants to hold the temp a little higher than the other (these things are only accurate to within a degree at best) and that one runs all the time, which can lead to premature 'on' failure in bimetallic units. Digital units shouldn't have this problem (that is, the problem of failing 'on' from running constantly).


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## kookyxogirl (Nov 13, 2017)

BeastlyFern said:


> @kookyxogirl
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Thank you! I will check it out, hopefully I can understand it![emoji4]


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## DaveKS (Apr 2, 2019)

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LilysDad said:


> Would a person be better off using two 150w heaters instead of a 300w? I doubt that both units would go out at the same time and if one stuck on it would be less heat.


My opinion is yes. I’ve been keeping aquarium since late 80’s and I’ve noticed that most the heater failures I’ve seen all involved higher wattage heaters. As much as when they stick on it has potential to make aquarium hotter but also the fact that elements inside the heater itself runs at a much hotter temperature which tends to make the components in the heater more prone to failure. 

I’ve got little aquariums now running small 10-25w heaters, those heaters are at least a decade old, never a problem. Even left one out in air and plugged in overnight and it’s still working. The one catastrophe I’ve personally had involved a 300w sticking on and that heater was only 3 years old. Went to 2 100w and never to this day have I had problem with either of them, don’t use them except on occasions but they still work as designed.


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

Hard to find them any more but the AquaClear, Hagen, and now Fluval's made in Italy heaters were once a standard of excellence in bimetallic thermostat heaters decades ago.

I cannot say if their present heaters are as good as their 1980~90"s products.

Most modern heaters have copied those first Hagen and AquaClear thermostat design.

Those of you old enough to remember the old clamp on adjustable heaters like the Hartz Mountains and Metaframes with their buzzing on and off cycles that would make for crappy radio listening. The little addition of the weakly magnet assisted contacts made those new heaters close and open without the arcing and possibility of welding them selves on.

I never had an old Hagen that wore out or welded itself on. the contacts were over built and, IIRC were a Tungsten alloy that refused to oxidize even after years of cycles.


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## butchblack (Oct 25, 2019)

Interesting and informative thread.Question. What are your opinions of the Finnex max 300 versus the inkbird 306T controllers? I have a finnex on my 75g, they both are about the same price. I want to get controllers on my 20L, and my 40b and 10g hospital when I get them set up. The 75 and the 40 will/are running 300W heaters (Hydor) the 20L and 10g small submersible heaters. Is there an advantage of one over the other?


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## LilysDad (Feb 16, 2020)

Update: I ended up buying an Eheim heater. I am curious though. Everyone else recommends a 300w for a 75gl tank. Eheim recommends a 150.


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

LilysDad said:


> Update: I ended up buying an Eheim heater. I am curious though. Everyone else recommends a 300w for a 75gl tank. Eheim recommends a 150.


It depends on the temperature of the room. I think the manual has a rating on how many degrees over room temp it can heat... different watts have different limits for certain size tanks.


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## butchblack (Oct 25, 2019)

Ben3721 said:


> It depends on the temperature of the room. I think the manual has a rating on how many degrees over room temp it can heat... different watts have different limits for certain size tanks.


I've also found that Eheim tends to rate its products differently from most other manufacturers. For instance, their classic canister filters have about half the flow rate as their competitors for the max tank they're rated for.

What size heater did you buy? There's a belief that going a bit higher wattage is good, especially if your room temperature is cool.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I no longer find shopping by brand to be very effective, since where and who makes the product is prone to change almost overnight and we no longer know that products with a name are still made even in the same country and we don't know but what the company may have been bought out last week! 
That leaves me shopping for design features which I know make heaters work longer and better. 
First step is that I know electrical components can be made better and more robust if the size is not the primary factor. Two is knowing that heat kills lots of electronics, so I don't want the controls in the tube to be heated to extremes every cycle. I know that metal is good to replace the glass tube, just toughter. But I also know that metal coils that are heated and cooled every cycle will go through lots of expansion/contraction which tends to flex the metal and cause fatigue cracks and failure. Ceramic is a much better heating element. Think of the old wire coil room heaters versus newer design ceramic to see the difference. 
Heater features I want:
Controls in a nice big box inline outside the tank with adjustments and controls built to work and stay cool, not simply chosen to fit the tube! 
Ceramic heating element and metal tube. A point on controls outside the tube is that one can lay the tube down to hide it better! I size my heaters to the minimum size that I find works for that tank in that room, no larger as the repeated cycle on/off is what wears heaters and controls out. Think of light bulbs and you often see them burn out as they are switch on but rarely when just setting there burning. 
And working with the idea that all electro-mech things do eventually fail, I want a backup to save me. Temperature controllers come in lots of different types and prices, so we can choose which works for each of us. I love the Inkbird 308 for all around features and ease of getting and setting them but they tend to be expensive if you need lots of them at around $30-40. So for my personal choice, I go with lots of the small controllers off E-bay and add a bit of DIY wiring to produce them in the $15 range. I will rarely/never run another tank without a controller as cheap insurance against loosing a whole tank of fish.
If I can afford the hobby I want to avoid the trauma as it sure is not fun to kill the tank. 
Heaters? BAH! Worst part of the hobby.


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## LilysDad (Feb 16, 2020)

I bought a 300w, although it is almost too tall for the tank.

Bump: I bought a 300w, although it is almost too tall for the tank.


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## butchblack (Oct 25, 2019)

LilysDad said:


> I bought a 300w, although it is almost too tall for the tank.
> 
> Bump: I bought a 300w, although it is almost too tall for the tank.


If the heater is fully submersible it should be basically horizontal with the top a little higher than the bottom, not placed vertically. I see you bought an Eheim, if it's a Jager, it's fully submersible.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

At one point in this discussion there was mention of heaters sticking on due to running longer periods. I have a totally opposite thought to consider as I find running longer is one way to preserve the heater! 
In my teardown and looking at what happened to heaters I find two common problems. The heating element or the controls are the two items which fail. 
The controls fail most often due to corrosion building on the contacts, leading to no contact in some cases. But the more common failure is due to the contacts sticking together and heating full time. So I look for why this happens and it is pretty easy to spot if we watch closely. Each time the heater kicks on or off, the points which carry the 110 V current move together or open and as they do they make an arc which you can see if watching a heater where you can see the controls. This little arc is very much like a mini- arc welder and burns the contacts each time. They either corrode or weld together! 
So my thinking is that it actually lasts longer if the controls switch power on and off less frequently! I want a small heater that is just large enough to keep the tank warm at the normal room temperature as that means it switches on and stays on longer, rather than frequent on/off cycles which a large heater may do. 
Another reason to like a big box control outside the tank is that those contacts can be made on a relay which is much larger and designed to last as it is designed to switch 110VAC! If you tear down a heater with the contacts in the tube, you will find they are tiny little contacts and not really suited for AC switching.


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## VinceIII (Mar 3, 2016)

DaveKS said:


> My opinion is yes. I’ve been keeping aquarium since late 80’s and I’ve noticed that most the heater failures I’ve seen all involved higher wattage heaters.


I was wondering about that. I've used a few 25-watt store brand heaters, and they ran beautifully. I was surprised when I saw negative reviews for these heaters, but they were all for higher-watt versions. Maybe it was a coincidence, but it does make sense that higher-wattage models would be more prone to failure.

Bump: I'm waiting for reviews of Eheim's new Thermocontrol e heaters.


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## Humu Humu (Jan 26, 2019)

I've been using Eheim Jager heaters for over 10 years now (3 tanks) and none has failed me.


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

Humu Humu said:


> I've been using Eheim Jager heaters for over 10 years now (3 tanks) and none has failed me.


While I still use them, over the years they moved their factory and quality did go down and failure rates went up. At least that's what I've been told long ago. Maybe someone has more to add to that?


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## Leeatl (Aug 8, 2015)

I use InkBIrd controllers I diy'ed myself . TC-1000 I believe . With controllers you keep heaters higher than you want so they are basically on all the time so no arcing .


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

Found a very very basic failsafe heater product. You just plug it in the wall then plug the heater in the block and put the thermostat in the tank. It's not a controller. It trips at 72 or 84 degrees and shuts the heater/chiller off then beeps. 60 bucks. Not a replacement for a high end controller but it's great for smaller tanks to prevent a disaster.

It's called Smart Temp Security made by AutoAqua

The also have one for water level stuff too.

Not really sure the watt limits of their products tho... or how long it would last.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

At $35 we can get a very nice Inkbird 308 with all the bells and whistles to control both heat and cool, alarms etc. on Amazon and likely can find better prices as Amazon is rarely the best price available. 
Wi-fi enabled bumps the price to $49.99 on the Inkbird site.


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## VinceIII (Mar 3, 2016)

Ben3721 said:


> While I still use them, over the years they moved their factory and quality did go down and failure rates went up. At least that's what I've been told long ago. Maybe someone has more to add to that?


They're still made in Germany. I know that not all German factories are the same. It just struck me as curious, because complaints about decreased quality after a factory move usually implies it was moved to a developing country to lower costs. It makes me wonder if somebody got on the "they've gone downhill" bandwagon and incorrectly assumed the heaters weren't made in Germany anymore.


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## reddhawkk (Dec 28, 2011)

I have only a couple of new heaters so I can't suggest one make or another. Most of my tanks are heated by Supreme heaters I bought in the 80's/90's and they are still running great with no issues.


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

VinceIII said:


> Ben3721 said:
> 
> 
> > While I still use them, over the years they moved their factory and quality did go down and failure rates went up. At least that's what I've been told long ago. Maybe someone has more to add to that?
> ...


I guess next time I'm at the store I check to see where it's made on the packaging... I remember years ago of a lot of talk on forums about it. But then again forums are echo chambers sometimes, could have been merely a rumor.


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## DanG (Apr 25, 2006)

Great thread. I use two heaters in my 29 gallon, and just discovered one is no longer working, an Aqueon that is pretty old. Took it out of the tank and found it was full of water. So replacing it. Considering an Eheim Jager Thermocontrolled (the E Series), as it looks to be reliable (the better one Eheim makes) and also Eheim recommended in this thread. I was considering a Fluval E Series, but I came across many reports of failure. I have had other Fluval products die over the years, but have always had great experience with Eheim stuff. 

Yes, I did find that Eheim recommends a lower wattage than commonly recommended, but the note on temp differential with the room in this thread is helpful. Winters are cold here, and we keep the room where the tank is cool at night. So I'll opt for the larger size, I think.

I will look into controllers now... starting with the Inkbird 308 recommended here. Just looked at it on Amazon. Quick question: I run two heaters in my tank (in case one fails... see the note about the Aqueon above... thankfully there was a second heater in the tank). I notice the Inkbird 308 has two outlets, one marked Cooling and one marked Heating. Not sure how one uses this, and can one connect both (two) heaters to the single controller? This may be answered in the video someone posted in the thread from YouTube. I'll look at that when I have time.

Thanks, all.


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## Crazyjayb (Jan 9, 2020)

dang said:


> Great thread. I use two heaters in my 29 gallon, and just discovered one is no longer working, an Aqueon that is pretty old. Took it out of the tank and found it was full of water. So replacing it. Considering an Eheim Jager Thermocontrolled (the E Series), as it looks to be reliable (the better one Eheim makes) and also Eheim recommended in this thread. I was considering a Fluval E Series, but I came across many reports of failure. I have had other Fluval products die over the years, but have always had great experience with Eheim stuff.
> 
> Yes, I did find that Eheim recommends a lower wattage than commonly recommended, but the note on temp differential with the room in this thread is helpful. Winters are cold here, and we keep the room where the tank is cool at night. So I'll opt for the larger size, I think.
> 
> ...


+1 to the eheim heaters, I use them on all my larger tanks and they have worked for a long time and are still running at a consistent temp. My one complaint is that it does not adjust to the temp you move it too, what I mean by that is say you have it at 75 degrees, the heater will, at least in my case be around 73


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## MD500_Pilot (Dec 28, 2019)

Leeatl said:


> I use and like Eheim/Jager heaters and I use Inkbird controllers . I would use 2 just for redundancy .


+1 for the Inkbird, does both heating and cooling, inexpensive and no cooked fish, ever!!


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## DanG (Apr 25, 2006)

MD500_Pilot said:


> +1 for the Inkbird, does both heating and cooling, inexpensive and no cooked fish, ever!!


Don't know if you saw my question about the Cooling and Heating outlet on the Inkbird that I saw in the photo on Amazon. Is there a way to connect two heaters to a single controller? Maybe I better watch that YouTube video... ha ha.


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

dang said:


> MD500_Pilot said:
> 
> 
> > +1 for the Inkbird, does both heating and cooling, inexpensive and no cooked fish, ever!!
> ...


Hook both heaters into the heat side of the controller. The cooling side is for like chillers I would think.


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

I’m going to inject another heating option. This option is only good if the room temperature does not go below about 65 dF for more than 10-12 hours. Over the decades, I’ve had many heater failures, no matter what brand I’ve used. The most deadly failures have been runaway heaters when the temp climbs into the 90’s, and more. I can only recall one failure event when temp dropped enough to cause death and this was due to room temp being in the low 50’s for several days (don’t know at what point the heater actually stopped working).

When I added an in-line level-one UV sterilizer, I found that the wattage of the UV bulb was enough to maintain a steady ~78 dF temperature in the tank, with reasonable room temperatures. The big plus is that you also get the many benefits offered by such sterilizers. I haven't needed a heater in over ten years.

If you’re going to spend $50 or more on a heater and the level-one UVS costs $150-$200, you’re going to get a high quality sterilizer for $100-$150.


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## DanG (Apr 25, 2006)

Just watched the video on the ITC 306T. Very clear and can handle two heaters (is heating only). On another forum I found comments about the Inkbird controllers getting way out of calibration and the probes failing. Are there other inexpensive and reliable brands folks swear by. Bayite Temperature Controllers? I'll search other threads for this as well. Thnx.


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

I used to be able to find used but working Mint Green Ebo Jagers at thrift stores that were otherwise out of calibration, but still heated fine. These were usually the older sand packed units in 150 to 300 watts.

The thermostatic knobbed ends could be carefully removed and the trimming screw on the thermostat's body could be adjusted to bring the temperature calibration back. I ran these with their ends out of the tank water because a lot of the old sandpacked ones would leak with age from the rubber sealed end.

Never had an old Ebo weld itself on.


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## jjc2811 (Jan 14, 2020)

I have a couple heaters in my 29 gallon right now. One is an Oasé HeatUp 150w that is internal to my BioMaster Thermo and the other is an Ehiem Jager 150w.

Like a couple folks have mentioned, trying to run to separate heaters individually is a challenge. I tried it for a couple days, but finally gave up and plugged them both into my Inkbird ITC-306T. It works like a charm. 

I originally bought the Inkbird to use as a high temperature cutout, but then when I went to two heaters because I was cycling a tank and was trying to get to 86 degrees F and the Oasé would only get the temp to about 79-ish.

I set both heaters to full on and control them with the Inkbird. The controller has contacts that are rated for 10 amps, significantly less than the combined 2.5 amps my heaters allegedly draw.

I don't know if the controller has a capacitor on the contacts to minimize arcing.

Another feature I like in the Inkbird is the ability to adjust the sensor offset. Ideally, I'd like to be able to perform a zero and span adjustment, but it works for what I'm using it. Fwiw, I performed a single point calibration at 32 degrees F and found the indication to be within 0.2 degrees.

All in all, I'd say that if you are going to use two heaters in the same tank, a controller will make keeping the temperature stable much easier.


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## matt769 (Jan 7, 2020)

Hi,

Just wanted to jump in on this thread!

My local shop has recommended 2 x titanium aquamedic heaters with the aquamedic 2 controller twin

Would you suggest 2 x 300w heaters or 2 x 500w heaters? I am not sure what would be best for my tank below:

Tank is 213cm x 61cm x 61cm - with roughly 6cm of substrate in the bottom

Room temperature is set to around 19 degrees celsiusin the whole house so will be around that or abit more and the tank will be kept at 25degrees celsius

thanks in advance


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## MD500_Pilot (Dec 28, 2019)

Ben3721 said:


> Hook both heaters into the heat side of the controller. The cooling side is for like chillers I would think.


I concur, just plug them both into the heating side, should work great!


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## butchblack (Oct 25, 2019)

If you're not going to hook up some kind of cooler go with the 306T which is heating only. I ordered one and liked so much that I ordered two more. I just need to decide if I want to replace the Finnex controller on the 75 or not. I'm leaning towards replacing it, keeping the Finnex as a spare, and ordering another Inkbird when I finish putting together my 40B.


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## Socratic monologue (Dec 8, 2008)

Socratic monologue said:


> I second the Neotherm recommendation.


I will eat my words on this.

I lost one to simple failure (stuck off). Replaced it with another NeoTherm, which recently stuck on and killed fish. Considering I only run two of these at a time (on my two QT tanks) these are pretty serious failure rates.


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