# (New) Current Satellite Freshwater LED+ Fixture (6500K/RGB)???



## Brian_Cali77

What's up guys...

I've been toying with the idea of getting a Finnex Monster Ray RGB LED 24" to work along side my Finnex Ray 2 24" on a 26g Bow Front. I'm getting a decent amount of growth from my plants with a single Ray 2 with about 40 PAR (medium light). However, all the plants *grow green*. I want to boost this up a bit but just enough... I am running pressurized co2 and dosing micro/macros via PPS-Pro method. 

I've been thinking of getting the Monster Ray for the extra *Red spectrum* but was thinking the green would be useless and the Blue would be okay. Then I got to thinking, this would be a lot easier if Finnex just made a Ray 2 with Red LED's w/ White. I think I've heard un-confirmed rumors of this somewhere? 

Well, then I stumbled upon this new fixture, the *Current Satellite Freshwater LED+ Fixture* (which the 24" version has 48x White / 24x RGB LEDs = *18 watts*). I like that is mixes 2 rows of (4x) 6500K white LED to every row (2x) of RGB along its strip. 










*So what do you think of this fixture to work in tandem with the Ray 2 at about 18" distance from light to sub? Will I get the extra boost, especially in the red spectrum to get the plants growing better? More importantly, to get my Rotala sp. to color up? I just don't see PAR numbers on this... I do like the controller though and the ability to customize the color output -- like increase "red". The "modes" on there like cloudy day and storm or what not are gimmicky, but I don't mind them...LOL, I actually think its neat to just entertain friends! But my main purpose is to grow color in my stems! Thoughts???*

More info:
http://www.current-usa.com/aquarium-led-lights/satellite-freshwater-led-plus

^^^^


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## zackariah

That light looks nice is there a price. I couldn't find it on the website. I too have been wondering about a monster/ray2 set up. I feel it will bring out the colors in everything in the tank. I'm sure the light from current will cost far more, but to be able to make the light any color is cool. I've seen other fixtures that have that ability for upwards of 1,000 bucks. This light looks promising hope its cost effective. As far as what one to get I guess that will depend on what you want to spend. Oh and a side note. Marinelands planted light has green LEDs in the mix and puts off crazy par. Also check out buildmyled.com they will put together what you want.


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## Vepr

I bought a current this weekend for 110 USD. I am happy with it so far, the settings are neat and my kids have been having fun with the storms etc but I have been leaving it on the more orange daylight setting although I am considering the full spectrum setting. I will get some pictures of it tomorrow and how I have it rigged over my 7 gallon.


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## Vepr

Who needs sleep I will post some pics tonight...

Light setting I have it on now most of the time.










More oceanic type setting...










Controller










My ghetto PVC setup for the light until I figure out something better, actually doesn't look half bad painted in semi gloss black. I just did not want it resting right on the glass.


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## zackariah

Did you buy it from currents website? Also is that a 24"? It looks great thanks for the pics.


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## Brian_Cali77

It's on Dr. Fosters and Smith. I might try it.. I just wish PAR was available.


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## Vepr

zackariah said:


> Did you buy it from currents website? Also is that a 24"? It looks great thanks for the pics.


LFS here in Atlanta had just got them in Saturday and I got the last 18" he said they sold out surprisingly fast. It measures just over 18" without the brackets.


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## Brian_Cali77

Vepr - thanks for posting pictures. How would you rate the brightness? I mean, you have anything to compare it to?


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## Vepr

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Vepr - thanks for posting pictures. How would you rate the brightness? I mean, you have anything to compare it to?


I have no experience with LEDs but it appears just as bright as the two fluval 13 watt pcls I had over the tank before. Here is a pic from when I had the pcls for comparison. In full spectrum I think it is actually brighter but I have been running it with more orange and yellow. I will get a shot tomorrow in full spectrum. (The following pic was taken near the end of the light phase with CO2 on and the pics of the LED was taken at night well after pearling stopped and my air pump had kicked on)


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## Vepr

On a side note I was bummed when I first turned it on because I think it was set for moon lol. I was thinking "Really?" Until I hit the first daylight setting.


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## Brian_Cali77

So in the first pic you posted, in the 4th post, the setting you say you have it on most of the time, is that full spectrum mode? How does it look with just white and red turned all the way up? I'm thinking of pairing this with my finnex ray 2, so less white/blue would be needed i imagine.


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## Vepr

Brian_Cali77 said:


> So in the first pic you posted, in the 4th post, the setting you say you have it on most of the time, is that full spectrum mode? How does it look with just white and red turned all the way up? I'm thinking of pairing this with my finnex ray 2, so less white/blue would be needed i imagine.


No that is an one of the 6 daylight presets with more orange in it. The 6500k presets are orange, blue, rose pink, white, full spectrum and purple. I have not played around with the red, or greens yet but have bumped the white up and down. I will try to take more pictures tomorrow after work.


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## Brian_Cali77

Sweet! Please post those pics Vepr!


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## Brian_Cali77

On another note... I sent Current an email regarding PAR numbers and they just got back to me after talking it over with their engineering department. 

Here's the response:

_The* PAR value for 1 SAT+ 12" deep is 36 micromols and at 24" is at 21 micromols*. We're growing HC in a 18" deep tank with 1 SAT+ and 1 SAT regular. A SAT+ and finnex will grow any plant with no problems if CO2 is available.

Best,
Current-USA_​


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## Steve001

Brian_Cali77 said:


> On another note... I sent Current an email regarding PAR numbers and they just got back to me after talking it over with their engineering department.
> 
> Here's the response:
> _The* PAR value for 1 SAT+ 12" deep is 36 micromols and at 24" is at 21 micromols*. We're growing HC in a 18" deep tank with 1 SAT+ and 1 SAT regular. A SAT+ and finnex will grow any plant with no problems if CO2 is available.
> 
> Best,
> Current-USA_​


Before you plunk down your money go to buildmyled.com and input this list of leds to see the tech results. From what I hear the staff is very helpful and have posted on this forum. see this thread 150gal tank 
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=198196


Btw, if you want a tank that has high apparent brightness then you need to have green leds

A CRI of 98


5700K
5000K
6500K
470nm Blue
505nm Cyan
505nm Cyan
4500K
3000K
525nm Green
525nm Green
4000K
5000K
590nm Amber
625nm Red
590nm Amber


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## DefStatic

Ok, I won't lie, this has me interested...


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## Vepr

Brian_Cali77 said:


> On another note... I sent Current an email regarding PAR numbers and they just got back to me after talking it over with their engineering department.
> 
> Here's the response:
> _The* PAR value for 1 SAT+ 12" deep is 36 micromols and at 24" is at 21 micromols*. We're growing HC in a 18" deep tank with 1 SAT+ and 1 SAT regular. A SAT+ and finnex will grow any plant with no problems if CO2 is available.
> 
> Best,
> Current-USA_​


Thanks for the information. A little less PAR than I expected. I might need to add an exotic stunner strip in 8K depending on what my plants do.


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## micheljq

DefStatic said:


> Ok, I won't lie, this has me interested...


Same here, and the price make it affordable. I wonder what is the warranty on this fixture.


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## zackariah

The PAR value for 1 SAT+ 12" deep is 36 micromols and at 24" is at 21 micromols. We're growing HC in a 18" deep tank with 1 SAT+ and 1 SAT regular. A SAT+ and finnex will grow any plant with no problems if CO2 is available.

Best,
Current-USA

Did they tell you what settings? I would think that because it can change colors, the par would be different based on the color setting it is in. Either way I plan on getting one for my 20 gallon. I like the idea that I can play with the light to get the exact look I want. You can't beat the price. I found it on thepetplace.com and they price match and free ship!


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## Cricket

I just bought the 18" freshwater plus yesterday! We've had one set up at the store for about a month now, super cool light. I got an employee raincheck but they were 30% off this weekend at the store, so I snagged mine for about $65.00. Lovely light, so far from what I've observed in store (it's only been a month though) everything seems good with the quality


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## Brian_Cali77

zackariah said:


> Did they tell you what settings? I would think that because it can change colors, the par would be different based on the color setting it is in.


No they didn't. But sounds like a good question for me to ask... I'll get back to you.


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## Brian_Cali77

Cricket said:


> I just bought the 18" freshwater plus yesterday! We've had one set up at the store for about a month now, super cool light. I got an employee raincheck but they were 30% off this weekend at the store, so I snagged mine for about $65.00. Lovely light, so far from what I've observed in store (it's only been a month though) everything seems good with the quality


You're talking about the Current Satellite right? Not the BuildmyLED.com light? 

Anyway, if it's the Current light, is it on a planted tank?


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## WheeledGoat

I was sitting over here, so smug after my recent purchase of a Marineland Aquatic Plant fixture... loving life with my moonlight setting and built-in timers...

now I'm suddenly jealous. *This looks so freaking cool. *

My only questions: what mode does it default to? ...meaning if you put this on a timer that cuts the power, does it come back on @ the previous setting? or a default setting?

I'm also a bit concerned about the PAR - seems a little sparse... but nothing that wouldn't be fixed by 2 of 'em! 

At least I know what I'm getting when this Marineland light fails! (sure hope I don't _accidentally_ drop it in the tank during my next water change...)


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## Brian_Cali77

Oh yeah.. I did ask about the ability to be placed on a timer. Apparently there's some memory built in so it will just turn on under the last setting. And it comes with a 1 year warranty.


Edit: the PAR numbers are sparse but in all fairness, they're pretty close to the Finnex Monster Ray's numbers.


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## Vepr

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Oh yeah.. I did ask about the ability to be placed on a timer. Apparently there's some memory built in so it will just turn on under the last setting. And it comes with a 1 year warranty.
> 
> 
> Edit: the PAR numbers are sparse but in all fairness, they're pretty close to the Finnex Monster Ray's numbers.


I can attest that it comes on under the last setting so be careful if you let your kids come up with wild variations under the the 4 different save buttons and your timer kicks off when they are having fun. Happened to me Sunday morning, little stinkers...


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## Cricket

> You're talking about the Current Satellite right? Not the BuildmyLED.com light?
> 
> Anyway, if it's the Current light, is it on a planted tank?


Yep, I'm talking about the Current USA light. The tank will be planted, I'm just setting it up now. The display at work is unfortunately just over fake plants, but the 18" satellite plus has 600 lumens versus a marineland double bright which has 450 and the light has a better spread than the marinelands imo. Not sure about the par values compared to other lights. But it should at least be able to pull off low light plants, which is what I'm going for. 

I was looking into getting a finnex but the amazon ratings worried me (not sure if they were in the minority, being broken within weeks) but when the satellite was on sale, I decided to go for that instead.


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## Vepr

Ok some more shots playing around with the settings (complete with some hair algae I need to take care of) I did compare it to the two 13w pcls and the led is brighter than one by far but is probably not quite as bright as both of them but it seems very close.

Blue turned way up with everything else off










Green turned way up










Full on Red










Full Spectrum


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## Brian_Cali77

Wow thanks for the pics! The RED is what I'm looking for! I mean, I already have the 24" Finnex Ray 2 so I would imagine this light would make a great companion light to supplement what I need. I think I'm going to give it a go! 

Edit: I guess you decided to get rid of the PVC?


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## Vepr

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Wow thanks for the pics! The RED is what I'm looking for! I mean, I already have the 24" Finnex Ray 2 so I would imagine this light would make a great companion light to supplement what I need. I think I'm going to give it a go!
> 
> Edit: I guess you decided to get rid of the PVC?


I took it off before the pictures when I was doing some tank maintenance and trimming and just put the light back up there for some quick pics but it is back in place now. I am contemplating resting the light on the glass because that would make it about 9 inches from substrate to light which has to up the PAR some but even with the PVC it is only about 10 inches.


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## Brian_Cali77

zackariah said:


> The PAR value for 1 SAT+ 12" deep is 36 micromols and at 24" is at 21 micromols. We're growing HC in a 18" deep tank with 1 SAT+ and 1 SAT regular. A SAT+ and finnex will grow any plant with no problems if CO2 is available.
> 
> Best,
> Current-USA​
> Did they tell you what settings? I would think that because it can change colors, the par would be different based on the color setting it is in. Either way I plan on getting one for my 20 gallon. I like the idea that I can play with the light to get the exact look I want. You can't beat the price. I found it on thepetplace.com and they price match and free ship!


So I requested that information and Current responded with, "Because most Par meters don't measure blue light, we had it on the orange setting to get the maximum Par readings." 

Hope this helps!


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## zackariah

Thanks Brian for all your leg work. From the info they have provided it seem this light would work for low to medium light plants. And if coupled with another of the same or a finnex ray, etc. It should work for high light. Time to put in my order! Can't wait to see it on my tank.


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## DefStatic

Is it just me, or does that full spectrum really give some pop and depth? Wow!

Uhg, but at $110 for the 24" model... Maybe if they are ever 30% still. But I still have to upgrade my current setup to Finnex, so this will have to be a Gonna Do Someday for now.


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## Vepr

DefStatic said:


> Is it just me, or does that full spectrum really give some pop and depth? Wow!


In my opinion it does look best under full spectrum in person.


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## WheeledGoat

So what's the scoop? How are the plants doing?


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## Vepr

WheeledGoat said:


> So what's the scoop? How are the plants doing?


Well I got tired of trimming riccia so I pulled that and put in some more DHG. :help: I cannot stop messing with my tank...

The riccia looked good and was growing well but I got tired of trimming it every week. What a mess it made.

So I kind of sabotaged my own test but I get the feeling I was going to need the stunner strip because while still growing the riccia seemed to be less dense if that makes sense. The DHG and micro sword are doing well under the light and pearl under it. The riccia and willow moss was moved to my quarantine tank for the time being. I have shifted the light to be right on the glass at this point though so I am only about 9 to 10 inches off the substrate. 

I think this light would work for low to med light plants as long as the tank is not over 12 inches deep but not carpets. Anything deeper and I think it would just be more of a display light but this is all just conjecture and opinion at this point because I have not had the light that long or done any true tests for PAR etc.


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## dhavoc

just setup my 18" tester and its a neat little light. the control pretty much lets you set whatever color you prefer and i like that. it is noticably weaker than the fugeray it replaced, but i like the color output much better. i will probably supplement it with the clip on finnex i have thats white/red led and see what happens. for the controllability, the price isnt that bad, but its not a high or even a med light fixture. if they cram more leds into the same length it would be a viable planted tank fixture IMO.


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## Brian_Cali77

Thanks dhavoc for contributing to this thread on your experience with this fixture! Out of curiosity what size tank do you have it on? Distance plays and obvious roll on whether one or maybe even two of these would work? Or like you said, "supplement" it with additional lighting. I'm real tempted to get this fixture... we'll see


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## dhavoc

its on a mr aqua mini-L equivalent. 18" width, so the light is a perfect fit. as mentioned above, its still not powerful enough to be called a med light fixture. tank has no co2 or ferts, and has a SMS substrate. its basically a cpo tank but i want it to grow plants for aesthetic reasons. all my invert tanks are fully planted so i was hoping this would be a viable alternative to the finnex fixtures which are great, but cant grow red plants at all (not dissing finnex, i have a dozen of their fixtures and really like them). i also have a 24" mr aqua tester tank, with co2 and AS with a ray2 + monsteray combo and that is working out great. red plants are back to full red (rotala butterfly) and even marginally red plants (hygro pint.) are really red/magenta. its not just the light either, when i take it out it is really growing red. finnex should just combine the RGB leds into a ray2 and they'll sell a ton. if you can afford 2 fixtures, IMO go with a ray2/monsteray combo. youll get med/high light and the ability to grow red plants easily and pretty much anything else (tank also has erios and they are growing fine).


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## Brian_Cali77

Very nice! I'd like to see the 24" mr aqua with the ray 2 + MR combo... link? 

Pairing the Current Sat+ with a Finnex Ray 2 would probably be the equivalent to the Ray2/MR combo... just that the aesthetics of having two different fixtures above the tank wouldn't look so hot. I just like the ability to control the Sat+ color output. I've been in contact with Current and they told me that they're working on a white light grow fixture, something similar to Finnex Ray 2 I'm guessing, that would pair nicely with the Sat+. There's a lot of shifts going on with LED's and implementing dedicated red diodes or RGB's. I totally agree, Finnex should release a "full spectrum" LED ASAP that has a good amount of PAR + other wave lengths, not just so heavy on the blues.


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## zackariah

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Very nice! I'd like to see the 24" mr aqua with the ray 2 + MR combo... link?
> 
> Pairing the Current Sat+ with a Finnex Ray 2 would probably be the equivalent to the Ray2/MR combo... just that the aesthetics of having two different fixtures above the tank wouldn't look so hot. I just like the ability to control the Sat+ color output. I've been in contact with Current and they told me that they're working on a white light grow fixture, something similar to Finnex Ray 2 I'm guessing, that would pair nicely with the Sat+. There's a lot of shifts going on with LED's and implementing dedicated red diodes or RGB's. I totally agree, Finnex should release a "full spectrum" LED ASAP that has a good amount of PAR + other wave lengths, not just so heavy on the blues.


I agree Brian/dhavoc. I got a 24" and 48" satellite in the mail yesterday. I really like that I can change how the light looks. It is sleek and I can adjust the lighting to what looks good to me based on what is in my tank. The 48" is paired with an aqueon modular that I modded to carry 4 instead on three strips. The light on that tank now is probably med-high. The other light is stand alone on a 20 gallon. If current comes out with a white plant grow lite that matches it would be great for aesthetic reasons.


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## dhavoc

This is the 45cm Mr Aqua with the ray2/monsteray combo. last one is of the hygro out of water under normal office cfl light to show how red it gets.








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## Brian_Cali77

Sweet setup. So how long have they been growing under that combo of lighting? In my experience with the Ray 2 by itself, my colors eventually faded. And what's your fert dosing regimen like? I've been told to push phosphates really high, keep nitrates low, and crank up the co2. Are you dosing EI or PPS-Pro? Or what? Thanks!


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## dhavoc

only had the monsteray for 2 weeks. ray 2 has been on the tank since last November. all the red plants were pretty much green till the mray was added. no fert regimen since it is a k14 tank. I dose micros and some k every other week if I remember to, but mostly no ferts. co2 but at a VERY low dosage (single tiny bubble stream coming out of diffuser disk). almost all my tanks are setup this way with a very erratic low fert dosage if any at all.


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## zackariah

This is my 24" satellite plus on a 20 gallon. The light is on full spectrum.


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## VJM

I am really interested in one of these for a 12g long tank. The light would end up around 7" from the substrate, so it seems doable in a non co2 tank. 

Please update with results, and thank you so much for finding it!!


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## Brian_Cali77

Look who's a new proud owner of a Current Sat LED+  
I'm going to be putting it through its paces and write a review on it soon... 

Here's a teaser pic!


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## zackariah

Congrats Brian. Your had scape looks great I look forward to seeing what you do with it. In my tank pictured above there has not been huge growth slow and steady. Except for my water lettuce.


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## Brian_Cali77

Thanks Zack. Well given the PAR mentioned earlier in this thread, and the height of your tank (60P?), I'm certain you'll need two of these fixtures or supplement it with additional lighting somehow. The 60-F i have it on is only 7" tall.


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## AquaPipes

Just posted up my impressions and photos of my tank with different lights here:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=326962


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## Brian_Cali77

Thanks for the link and review. I skimmed over the read, but when you compared it to the finnex, was that the Fugeray or Ray 2?


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## splintercat

Hey, I am trying to choose a new light for my tank and am not sure whether I should go with this light, the Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED (not the LED+, since it has more white LEDs and no RGB from what I've read it gets more PAR), or a finnex fugeray. I have a 29 gallon tank that is 18" high. I grow mainly low-med light plants (none are red, though I'd like to get some someday... when I can properly fund a lighting setup) and do not use CO2. Any chance you'd have an opinion on which one I should go for? I can't seem to find many reviews on the Satellite LED nor the LED+ anywhere yet.


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## zackariah

splintercat said:


> Hey, I am trying to choose a new light for my tank and am not sure whether I should go with this light, the Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED (not the LED+, since it has more white LEDs and no RGB from what I've read it gets more PAR), or a finnex fugeray. I have a 29 gallon tank that is 18" high. I grow mainly low-med light plants (none are red, though I'd like to get some someday... when I can properly fund a lighting setup) and do not use CO2. Any chance you'd have an opinion on which one I should go for? I can't seem to find many reviews on the Satellite LED nor the LED+ anywhere yet.


You can't find many reviews because they are so new. Thoughts of us here are testing them out to see how they work. I have a 48" and 24" plus. The light looks very sleek and seems well built. I like the RGB because all white or too much wire looks washed out imo. The lights are growing red plants in my tanks and keeping them red. I don't think the regular satellite will do as well with red plants. There is a link on this thread of a guy who has had both finnex and the satellite plus. He seemed to prefer the plus.


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## Brian_Cali77

+1 Zack

I'm a guy coming from Finnex to these Current fixtures and I'm really diggin' them so far. Finnex Ray2/Fugeray are still nice IMO, you get more PAR bang for your buck...but colors are a bit washed out and drab. 

I have 2x 24" Current LED+ version. I'm going to first try one on my shallow ADA 60-F to try a little DSM with HC. Then I'm going to use both on my 26g which is about 18" from light to sub. I just did a quick test run using two LED+ on the 26g, oh man... I really like how the full spectrum and orange mode make my reds pop! The gold marble angels never looked so golden!

Zack is right, these are so new and we're the "early adopters" experimenting... So right now its premature to make a thorough assessment. However, I'll try my best soon with a review with a ton of pics... Especially with using two of them on a taller tank application with co2, etc. 

Here's another teaser pic


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## tizzite

Thanks Brian, there aren't a lot of pictures of these lights on tanks and it's not like I can go to an LFS to see it in person.

I really want vibrant greens and reds, and don't care much about par since I'll be using it on a relatively shallow shrimp tank. (12 in high)


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## splintercat

Thanks for the thoughts guys! You have made me lean more towards the satellite+ now since it'll be going on my guppy/livebearer tank. Who knows, perhaps I will join the experiment with you guys.


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## acitydweller

ordered mine today...


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## zackariah

Here are some fun color combo pics on my 55 taken with my phone


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## FlyingHellFish

Can the LED strips be replaced like T5HO bulbs? I'm interested in this fixture but what happen if one LED burns out (they will eventually) , does Current offer replacement strips?

Are these LED SMD? I'm guessing the metal top cover is the heatsink, do you guys find that it gets warm or hot?


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## zackariah

FlyingHellFish said:


> Can the LED strips be replaced like T5HO bulbs? I'm interested in this fixture but what happen if one LED burns out (they will eventually) , does Current offer replacement strips?
> 
> Are these LED SMD? I'm guessing the metal top cover is the heatsink, do you guys find that it gets warm or hot?


The aluminum body does get a little warm. The lights do not put off heat to the tank like fluorescent or medal halide. The led strips are not replaceable. But unlike other types the led last 50,000 hours or so. No need to replace yearly. More like 7-10 years. Do the math on replacing bulbs and it is far better. It is possible that an led may go out. I have yet to have it happen. But the loss of a few will not make to big a difference. If this is a big worry for you you may want to go with a diy led then if you have malfunctioned led you can simply replace it. Hope this helps.


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## FlyingHellFish

Thanks, it does help and I'm still interested in this set up. The only downside is the output of the LEDs, I'm planning to grow high light plants and I'm not sure if this will be enough. Not a fan of having dual fixtures either (finnex and current) so I'm stuck with the idea of two of these or T5HO fixtures for my ADA 60P.


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## OVT

See my reply to your other thread on lights. I did try some LESs and my biggest issue with them is spread and colors. A number of people report great results with LEDs by buildyourled and I saw some amazing plants in person grown under them. IF you like your tank under hot pink lights 

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


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## stanjam

I bought the largest version of this strip for my brand new 75 gallon. This was originally going to be a large cichlid tank. It is now a fairly heavily planted community tank that I will be adfing some dwarf cichlids to. The light levels have been fine. Even my water lily is looking real nice. I blog this tank at stanjam.tumblr.com


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## zackariah

OVT said:


> See my reply to your other thread on lights. I did try some LESs and my biggest issue with them is spread and colors. A number of people report great results with LEDs by buildyourled and I saw some amazing plants in person grown under them. IF you like your tank under hot pink lights
> 
> via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


If you are referring to my pics, I did that to show how it can look like the monster ray. Half the cool part of this light is playing with different color combos at different intensities to see how the plants and fish look.


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## cosm3

Disregard, they are sold allover!


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## backtoblue

Hey all, first-time poster here and a planted tank newb! I just got this fixture for a new 55 gal I'm setting up, standard dimensions 48x13x21. I just put in a variety of hardy low-light plants (at least according to my research): Jungle Val's, Crypts, Swords, Anubias, Java Ferns and Dwarf Sag. I'm also using Flora-Max substrate with PFS over it. Photoperiod right now is 12 hours on a timer. Temp is 78.

I'm assuming one of these Satellite + would be considered a "low light" set up. I'm going for a low tech tank, but I'm just curious if anyone would think I would benefit from dosing with ferts, at least until roots establish themselves in the substrate? What about Excel? The plants have only been in less than a week, but my Vals aren't looking so hot and a couple of others are showing some brown spots. I think it's maybe adjusting to the new water parameters.

So I guess I'm just looking for input re: dosing regimen - if any- for some of you guys using this light. Thanks!


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## Brian_Cali77

I haven't used this light in a low tech setup. However, in my low light tanks, i do dose flourish and excel. Root tabs under the swords and crypts.


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## zackariah

backtoblue said:


> Hey all, first-time poster here and a planted tank newb! I just got this fixture for a new 55 gal I'm setting up, standard dimensions 48x13x21. I just put in a variety of hardy low-light plants (at least according to my research): Jungle Val's, Crypts, Swords, Anubias, Java Ferns and Dwarf Sag. I'm also using Flora-Max substrate with PFS over it. Photoperiod right now is 12 hours on a timer. Temp is 78.
> 
> I'm assuming one of these Satellite + would be considered a "low light" set up. I'm going for a low tech tank, but I'm just curious if anyone would think I would benefit from dosing with ferts, at least until roots establish themselves in the substrate? What about Excel? The plants have only been in less than a week, but my Vals aren't looking so hot and a couple of others are showing some brown spots. I think it's maybe adjusting to the new water parameters.
> 
> So I guess I'm just looking for input re: dosing regimen - if any- for some of you guys using this light. Thanks!


Welcome to the forum and the hobby. I have this light on a 55 and a 20. I dose excel, flourish, flourish trace and root tabs in both tanks. No co2 in either. 12 photo. My plants are growing and healthy. Do you have fish too if so what? Some plants do go through a transition. My cryptos always melt then come back. I have only kept plants for a few months and I have learned through trial and error what works in my tank and what does not. To me this is part of the fun of the hobby. I love this lite. It is so cool to be able to put on a lighting show at night, or play with color combos for cool pictures. I'm sure you will be fine for most low light plants. I would dose if I where you it has served me well. But as you will learn on this forum for every opinion/experience there is someone with An opposite.


----------



## backtoblue

zackariah said:


> Welcome to the forum and the hobby. I have this light on a 55 and a 20. I dose excel, flourish, flourish trace and root tabs in both tanks. No co2 in either. 12 photo. My plants are growing and healthy. Do you have fish too if so what? Some plants do go through a transition. My cryptos always melt then come back. I have only kept plants for a few months and I have learned through trial and error what works in my tank and what does not. To me this is part of the fun of the hobby. I love this lite. It is so cool to be able to put on a lighting show at night, or play with color combos for cool pictures. I'm sure you will be fine for most low light plants. I would dose if I where you it has served me well. But as you will learn on this forum for every opinion/experience there is someone with An opposite.


Thanks! I'm looking forward to learning a ton - mostly through trial and error - but hopefully if I can glean some wisdom from some of you my wallet will appreciate it, LOL. 

I have 3 juvie Angels and a clown Pleco that are currently in a 10 gal awaiting transfer. I plan on getting a few more, but I want to try to keep it understocked. Funny enough, my Crypts are holding up the best so far. I love this light too, it's a lot of fun. I just wish the moonlights could be set up on a timer, but I don't think any fixtures offer that in this price point. 

What substrate are you using if I may ask? That was one reason why I was asking about ferts, I'm concerned about sand being on top and the plant roots not finding the fertilized substrate below for awhile. I guess it wouldn't hurt to try a fert for a couple of months until hopefully the plants get more established.

I think I may pick up both Excel and Flourish and give them a try.


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## Brian_Cali77

I use Floramax and all my plants grow great in it. It's not very nutrient packed (but has a high CEC) so adding the root tabs under the heavy root feeders (e.g. crypts, swords, etc.) will be beneficial. Excel will get pricey over time in a 55g... research using Glut (generic excel) in lieu of it. It's usually sold as Metricide 14 and can be diluted to Excel strength (just don't use the activator solution). It will definitely save you money but learn the precautions when using it.


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## zackariah

I use root tabs. My 55 has flourite/eco complete. My 20 has black sand. When you dose the water table not much makes it to the roots. You might want to look up each or your plants and research there feeding methods. I know the java ferns need ferts in the water since the are usually tied to wood. Where as swords/crypts love some ferts in the substrate.


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## backtoblue

Brian_Cali77 said:


> I use Floramax and all my plants grow great in it. It's not very nutrient packed (but has a high CEC) so adding the root tabs under the heavy root feeders (e.g. crypts, swords, etc.) will be beneficial. Excel will get pricey over time in a 55g... research using Glut (generic excel) in lieu of it. It's usually sold as Metricide 14 and can be diluted to Excel strength (just don't use the activator solution). It will definitely save you money but learn the precautions when using it.


Yikes! Hospital disinfectant! That's some serious stuff, LOL. I'll look into that Metricide later down the road. For now, I'll grab some tabs and Excel and see what happens.


----------



## micheljq

Maybe a new thread should be opened in the "Fertilizers and water parameters" section about the question on ferts.

Michel.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

Yeah it sounds harsh because it is. Excel is no exception. Both have to be used with the same precaution as you would with let's say, bleach. Anyway... Glut works the same as Excel for a fraction of the price. Get comfortable using Excel and down the road, if you wanna save money, get some Glut. Go on Amazon and compare the prices. Just remember, metricide is about 2.5x the strength. So you can dilute it and you'll have so much versus Excel.

Look at AquariumAdvice's January TOTM 220g. Beautiful planted tank not using co2. Just high light, glut, and PPS-Pro. 
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/january-2013-totm-rivercats-220-gallon-planted-community/


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## backtoblue

micheljq said:


> Maybe a new thread should be opened in the "Fertilizers and water parameters" section about the question on ferts.
> 
> Michel.


Sorry, my first reply was tied in to the OP regarding the specific light fixture. I thought it was an appropriate topic for those interested in this light that wanted to know what else would be required to grow some low light plants. It's difficult to find information regarding the intensity for this light - as well LED lights in general - at least it was for me, being a new hobbyist. I did go off in a tangent, though. My apologies.


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## Brian_Cali77

IMO, we're not too far off topic. Lighting and ferts work in concert with each other. I'd like to know if your plants start showing improvement under the Current Sat LED+ with the addition of Excel and Flourish in a low tech application, especially in a 21" tall aquarium. We merely discussed an alternative to Excel, all of which is relevant to helping the plants thrive under the main topic if this thread, the Current Satellite LED+. So in my view, no apology is warranted. But thank you anyways for the courtesy.


----------



## stanjam

Brian_Cali77 said:


> IMO, we're not too far off topic. Lighting and ferts work on concert with each other. I'd like to know if your plants start showing improvement under the Current Sat LED+ with the addition of Excel and Flourish in a low tech application, especially in a 21" tall aquarium. We merely discussed an alternative to Excel, all of which is relevant to helping the plants thrive under the main topic if this thread, the Current Satellite LED+. So in my view, no apology is warranted. But thank you anyways for the courtesy.


My plants are in a 75 with this light strip. I wasn't expecting the kind of growth I am getting from my swords, and even my nymphaea sp. To me some of the stem plants are growing slower than I expected, but everything else is doing well.


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## musician71604

I just got one of these fixtures for my shrimp tank this morning. So far I'm loving it.


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## zackariah

Brian_Cali77 said:


> IMO, we're not too far off topic. Lighting and ferts work on concert with each other. I'd like to know if your plants start showing improvement under the Current Sat LED+ with the addition of Excel and Flourish in a low tech application, especially in a 21" tall aquarium. We merely discussed an alternative to Excel, all of which is relevant to helping the plants thrive under the main topic if this thread, the Current Satellite LED+. So in my view, no apology is warranted. But thank you anyways for the courtesy.


+1 
Anyone reading this thread that is interested in or has this light will be curious if its growing plants. The ferts, substrate, water parameters need to be considered.


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## Jahn

Well to put it in perspective, the low light I was getting from my 18W aqueon for a 20 gallon high wasn't enough, and the CO2 booster type dosing and Flourish dosing I was doing didn't really perk up the plants much - nothing dead, but nothing really growing. Oh, the poor green cabomba did melt though, and some of the micro swords, tho the swords are already re-growing - the cabomba might be too far gone.

So enough of that. Blasting with Current starting yesterday, installing pressurized CO2 tonight, and PPS-Pro dry fert coming by Friday, root tabs before then, and I'll flourish in the meantime. Nitrates already sucked almost dry by the plants, so the ferts will be a crucial part of this - bought a phosphate test as well to make certain there's enough in the water.


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## Brian_Cali77

Jahn -- so will you be using the Current fixture along side the 18w aqueon?


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## Jahn

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Jahn -- so will you be using the Current fixture along side the 18w aqueon?


Oh no, the Aqueon is retired. Funny enough, it was a 18W floro full spectrum bulb hiding in a 24" light hood, so the Current filled that space without any adjustments needed - lift hood off glass, put Current just above glass, done. It's so low profile that it's actually lower than the front access swing hood of the Aqueon in front of it! I had to mount the IR bulb on top of the Current just to get clearance for a good remote shot above the swing hood.

If I was going to get some high light plants I may have considered the dual light combo, but since the tank is all low light and some med light plants, plus some incoming floaters to block light too, the Current alone is good enough for the dry fert program I have planned.


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## Brian_Cali77

Sounds good! Keep us updated.


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## Jahn

Pics!

Here's the Current LED. Look at how low a profile it is on the Aqueon Deluxe hood!










The full spectrum light is very bright (you can see it above a bit there, see how bright even during daytime?), but for the evening I like this orange/white mix - you dial down the white until it's almost moonlight setting but still lets the tetra stripes pop and the shadows become sharp:


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## acitydweller

roud: thanks for sharing!


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## thegasman

Light drives co2 demand and that drives fert demand, but back to the Satellite LED light. I run 2 Marineland Planted tank LEDs on my 20" 34 gallon cube tank along with an Aquaticlife 2X 18 watt T5 with one purple bulb and one rosette bulb. The Aquaticlife fixture is strictly for color enhancement. I get 130 PAR at the substrate with just the 2 Marineland fixtures, so tomorrow, I'm picking up the Satellite fixture to see if it gives me the color that the T5 fixture does with the advantages of lower power consumption and much longer "bulb" life. Plus, it will match the Marineland fixtures much better than the T5 fixture. One day, there will be the perfect planted aquarium LED light. For now, I'll give this a try for $100. As far as being able to program the random storm effects etc... I like the ability to initiate these effects with the remote versus having them happen randomly when no one is watching. My 2 cents and I'm sticking with it...for now.


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## rbtmccord

*Couple of things that would be cool*

I am going to go for one of these but I am also going to contact Current to ask a couple of questions.
1. Can two be linked together so that they work in unison. I think this would be very cool. Should only need two connections. One for syncing the two fixtures to same spectrum and for on/off
2. Do they intend to create a higher output one for those who wish to grow high lighting plants.
3. Can they provide info on what settings needed to grow the red colored plants.
4. Instructions say to turn unit on with remote. So if one wants to use a timer I suspect he just never turns it off?

Any thoughts.

Also wonder if one of these and a finnex Ray II would look very similar together


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## TexasCichlid

Jahn said:


> Pics!
> 
> Here's the Current LED. Look at how low a profile it is on the Aqueon Deluxe hood!


Looks like it was made for that hood.


----------



## zackariah

rbtmccord said:


> I am going to go for one of these but I am also going to contact Current to ask a couple of questions.
> 1. Can two be linked together so that they work in unison. I think this would be very cool. Should only need two connections. One for syncing the two fixtures to same spectrum and for on/off
> 2. Do they intend to create a higher output one for those who wish to grow high lighting plants.
> 3. Can they provide info on what settings needed to grow the red colored plants.
> 4. Instructions say to turn unit on with remote. So if one wants to use a timer I suspect he just never turns it off?
> 
> Any thoughts.
> 
> Also wonder if one of these and a finnex Ray II would look very similar together


The remote can control both units I have two and they can work in unison. Mine are on timers and come on at what ever setting they where on when turned off. I have red plants and they are growing. I keep mine on full spectrum. It looks best to me that way. I only occasionally play with the colors and storm settings. My favorite is the moon setting with the lighting! As far as more powerful that would be awesome! Hope this helped.


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## rbtmccord

Wonder if each light can be on different spectrum settings.

Also I am going to set up Nano 16 a Nuvo Nano 16. The display area is 13.5 gallons. So two of these should provide about 2.66 wpg of light. I would think that is enough to grow about anything I might want to.
Do the lights come off the tank easily or tilt to accommodate cleaning? Also do they feel secure when mounted on tank.

Thanks
Bob
What settings are you using and how long have you had them on your system?


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## backtoblue

Brian_Cali77 said:


> IMO, we're not too far off topic. Lighting and ferts work in concert with each other. I'd like to know if your plants start showing improvement under the Current Sat LED+ with the addition of Excel and Flourish in a low tech application, especially in a 21" tall aquarium. We merely discussed an alternative to Excel, all of which is relevant to helping the plants thrive under the main topic if this thread, the Current Satellite LED+. So in my view, no apology is warranted. But thank you anyways for the courtesy.


Just got put some root tabs in and dosed with Excel last night. I was doing a little rearranging in the tank and noticed a few new roots coming in already less than a week since I planted them (and that's just with light, no ferts or CO2), so I take that as a good sign! I'll post an update after a couple weeks maybe.


----------



## backtoblue

rbtmccord said:


> Wonder if each light can be on different spectrum settings.
> 
> Also I am going to set up Nano 16 a Nuvo Nano 16. The display area is 13.5 gallons. So two of these should provide about 2.66 wpg of light. I would think that is enough to grow about anything I might want to.
> Do the lights come off the tank easily or tilt to accommodate cleaning? Also do they feel secure when mounted on tank.
> 
> Thanks
> Bob
> What settings are you using and how long have you had them on your system?


I imagine you can unplug one while you adjusting settings for the other and vice versa, but as soon as you change a setting via the remote, both will change. I guess you can get away with it if you just use timers and never mess with the remote. 

I have the 48" fixture. It doesn't tilt but it is easy to remove. Basically just two adjustable arms at either end holding it snug and on top of the rim. I've never had an instance where I thought it wasn't secure. In fact, I'm considering taking off the glass tops and running it open. There's some serious calcium deposits on the pieces directly below the light and taking them out would really brighten things.

EDIT: I've only had my plants in a week. I personally like the first "orange" setting, aesthetically, though I've been experiment with just white and red full up.


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## stanjam

backtoblue said:


> Just got put some root tabs in and dosed with Excel last night. I was doing a little rearranging in the tank and noticed a few new roots coming in already less than a week since I planted them (and that's just with light, no ferts or CO2), so I take that as a good sign! I'll post an update after a couple weeks maybe.


What are you using for substrate? I find a good substrate really helps root production, while lighting, co2, and nutrients in the water help leaf growth and color.

Photosynthesis only happens as much as one of three limiting factors: light, co2, and temp. Your top output of photosynthesis can be limited by any of these three. In other word, if you have perfect light and co2, but the temp is low, you will only get what the temp allows.

In the aquarium generally co2 is most often the limiting factor, followed by lighting. If your temp is good and you aren't getting good growth, try co2. Still not good, add lights, tho your lighting should be fine for anything but very demanding plants.


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## zackariah

rbtmccord said:


> Wonder if each light can be on different spectrum settings.
> 
> Also I am going to set up Nano 16 a Nuvo Nano 16. The display area is 13.5 gallons. So two of these should provide about 2.66 wpg of light. I would think that is enough to grow about anything I might want to.
> Do the lights come off the tank easily or tilt to accommodate cleaning? Also do they feel secure when mounted on tank.
> 
> Thanks
> Bob
> What settings are you using and how long have you had them on your system?


If you want both lights on different settings. It would be simple as putting the ir receivers far enough away from each other and pointing the remote within inches of the individually. They come off for cleaning very easy. There is a barrel connector in line on the power cord. I disconnect that and put my light to the side. The watts per gallon does not really apply to LEDs. But you are right this light provides plenty of par at the depth of your tank.I have had both my light for about 3 weeks. I love them. This is a 24" on a standard 20 gallon


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## backtoblue

stanjam said:


> What are you using for substrate? I find a good substrate really helps root production, while lighting, co2, and nutrients in the water help leaf growth and color.


FloraMax, so that did help a little :icon_wink


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## rbtmccord

Zack how deep is your tank? What volume of light do you feel it provides you Low, Med or high


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## zackariah

rbtmccord said:


> Zack how deep is your tank? What volume of light do you feel it provides you Low, Med or high


My 20 gallon is 12 3/8" deep 24" wide and 16 1/2" tall. My 55 gallon is 13" deep 48"wide and 19 7/8" tall. My 55 also has a 48" aqueon modular that I modified to have an extra strip and moon lights on a separate power. The 55 I would say is med to high light. My 20 gallon I would say is low to medium low.


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## thegasman

So I picked up this light today. It's cool for the price. It has no where near the output of my Marineland Planted Tank LED's (130 PAR at 18" deep), but that's not why I bought it. I wanted more control over the color of my tank. The light just about does what I want it to do, but I wish that the RGB channels used more powerful LED's. The Marineland fixtures are so much brighter that the effect of the new fixture is almost lost...almost. With that said, it is an acceptable replacement for the 2X 18 watt T5 rosette/ purple fixture that I was using to add color to my tank. The storm/ cloud etc...effects are cool when the main lighting is off, but otherwise, you can't notice it. I run a high light, high co2, high growth tank and this light would not cut it as the main source of light. For a low light tank, it would work great. For adding a bit of color like I wanted, it works well. FWIW...The wife likes the way it looks compared to the big ugly T5 fixture.


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## Brian_Cali77

Let's see a picture  If it's having little affect using a single fixture, is there room on top to add a second one? I'm using two and its makes a substantial difference like a single t5ho versus a dual bulb (obviously), but that's why you can't expect much from a single.


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## Brian_Cali77

Well i wrote a LONG review, well more like an initial impressions review. 

Anyway..lots of pics of the Current Satellite LED+. BTW, i got confirmation from Current today that they just received their first prototype of their "plant LED." Not sure what to expect exactly but I'm guessing more intensity? Keep an eye out for that! 

Anyway, 56K warning here...lots of pics 

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...-initial-impressions-lots-of-pics-262398.html


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## owens81jw

Brian_Cali77 said:


> Well i wrote a LONG review, well more like an initial impressions review.
> 
> Anyway..lots of pics of the Current Satellite LED+. BTW, i got confirmation from Current today that they just received their first prototype of their "plant LED." Not sure what to expect exactly but I'm guessing more intensity? Keep an eye out for that!
> 
> Anyway, 56K warning here...lots of pics
> 
> http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forum...-initial-impressions-lots-of-pics-262398.html



that will be my upgrade for the 72 bow


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## scapegoat

can you get us any more information on the "plant LED"?

i'm super interested in this unit, but for a 125g high tech tank, the light output just isn't enough unless, maybe, i got four units


----------



## syzygy9

Do you know if the PAR values provided by Current were taken thru air or water? 

I ask because they provided PAR values of 36 @ 12" and 21 @ 24" (i'm assuming for a 24" fixture).

Finnex specs for the 24" Fugeray are 45 @ 12" but only 13 @ 24". 

It would seem that it is less powerful that the Fugeray in shallow applications, but stronger for deeper set-ups. That doesn't seem possible so that is why I'm wondering if Current took their readings thru air instead of water.


----------



## Seiryoku

I'm looking for a lighting option on my 36x24x20 rimless aquarium, will have CO2 (once I get around to finishing the reactor) and ferts. Currently have two Amazon Sun Kessils over it that I'm not liking. The two options I've come up with so far are a Radion or the new Satellite+ fixtures. I'll want the fixture(s) to be hung over the tank so the extra height from the substrate would have to be taken into account.

Have a Radion over my SW tank and love it and know it can be set to proper FW spectrum, but coverage on a 36" tank is an issue and can't afford two. Only information I have on the Satellite+ fixtures is what has been posted here...

What do you all think? Emailed Current about coverage and what not and they recommend 3-4 fixtures for "high" light.

Appreciate any and all input, thanks


----------



## stanjam

While I am getting excellent growth in my 75 gal, the tank does also receive a lot of indirect sunlight, which definitely gives a boost to the lighting for a couple hours a day. Just in the interest of full disclosure.


----------



## somewhatshocked

Now, to get Current to produce a 30" version...


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## Brian_Cali77

syzygy9 said:


> Do you know if the PAR values provided by Current were taken thru air or water?
> 
> I ask because they provided PAR values of 36 @ 12" and 21 @ 24" (i'm assuming for a 24" fixture).
> 
> Finnex specs for the 24" Fugeray are 45 @ 12" but only 13 @ 24".
> 
> It would seem that it is less powerful that the Fugeray in shallow applications, but stronger for deeper set-ups. That doesn't seem possible so that is why I'm wondering if Current took their readings thru air instead of water.


I messaged Current regarding this. They confirmed it was taken through "clear water" from the 24" version.


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## Jahn

For the record, in a week, my Ludwigia have colored up a bit and the stems grew up to the surface very quickly. Of course, this is also due to adding pressurized CO2 and dry ferts, but the new lights couldn't have hurt either.


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## rbtmccord

*Mounting question*

Does the wire pull out adjustable tank mounts provide a solid sure grip on the sides of the tank. What I mean are they firm enough that they don't need constant adjusting to the tanks sides each time you have to move it or remove it.


----------



## owens81jw

i just got my 24-36in mode for my 20L

this light seems perfect for 12in tall tanks 

will post some pics later


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## Seiryoku

Guess I'll just have to order one and try it out over my tank


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## owens81jw

Seiryoku said:


> Guess I'll just have to order one and try it out over my tank



what size tank u have?


----------



## backtoblue

rbtmccord said:


> Does the wire pull out adjustable tank mounts provide a solid sure grip on the sides of the tank. What I mean are they firm enough that they don't need constant adjusting to the tanks sides each time you have to move it or remove it.


No, you will need to readjust the arms when you move or remove it. It doesn't have a mechanism to secure the arms into position, other than friction from the arm's housing itself. 

That being said, when the light is in place and not being moved I've never had an issue with the arms pulling out on their own. They've always stayed just how I've positioned them.


----------



## Seiryoku

owens81jw said:


> what size tank u have?


Quoting myself due to laziness!


Seiryoku said:


> I'm looking for a lighting option on my 36x24x20 rimless aquarium, will have CO2 (once I get around to finishing the reactor) and ferts. Currently have two Amazon Sun Kessils over it that I'm not liking. The two options I've come up with so far are a Radion or the new Satellite+ fixtures. I'll want the fixture(s) to be hung over the tank so the extra height from the substrate would have to be taken into account.
> 
> Have a Radion over my SW tank and love it and know it can be set to proper FW spectrum, but coverage on a 36" tank is an issue and can't afford two. Only information I have on the Satellite+ fixtures is what has been posted here...
> 
> What do you all think? Emailed Current about coverage and what not and they recommend 3-4 fixtures for "high" light.
> 
> Appreciate any and all input, thanks


----------



## scapegoat

Seiryoku said:


> Guess I'll just have to order one and try it out over my tank


please let us know how it does. are you planning on buying more than one?


----------



## Seiryoku

scapegoat said:


> please let us know how it does. are you planning on buying more than one?


If I go with this fixture I would get at least two, maybe three as Current suggested 3-4 for my tank. Might hang my Radion (Gen2) over my FW tank one night this week to test coverage.

Current told me this fixture covers "roughly 6-8 inches both ways", which I imagine is why they suggest 3-4 fixtures for my tank.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

I never heard of a Radion (Gen2) until now. Just looked it up... man that thing looks like a beast with a nice price tag to boot  At least its full spectrum.


----------



## Seiryoku

Brian_Cali77 said:


> I never heard of a Radion (Gen2) until now. Just looked it up... man that thing looks like a beast with a nice price tag to boot  At least its full spectrum.


Best purchase I've ever made for my saltwater tank! Sadly I don't think I can squeeze the coverage out of one for a 36" tank  Stubborn though, which is why I'll probably hang it over the freshwater tank to see for my self.


----------



## rah-bop

Does anyone have any information about how the SAT+ compares with the regular SAT in terms of PAR?

I'm aiming for medium light. My tank is about 18" deep and it seems like (from what everyone is saying a saying) a single SAT+ may not be bright enough to cut it. Essentially what I'm wondering is: would I need two SATs, two SAT+, or one of each?


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## rbtmccord

*Question*

What size tank is it? How many gallons?

For med you need between 2 - 3 watts per gallon. Now I am not that knowledgeable regarding LED vs fluorescent or T5HO Flourescent but I was seriously considering the Sat+ in fact 2 of them but my tank is only 13 gallons in the display area so two of those fixtures would give me med light I would imagine. My tank is only 13" deep and after a couple inches of substrate is is more like 10.5". So I would think that it would work for me. Further if you are going to go that route I would go Sat+ and have 2 of them on there as they can both work in unison off same remote.
Now I think I am going to go with the AquaticLife 4 bulb T5HO unit with 96 watts of 4x24 T5HO bulbs and built in timer and moonlights. I figure I have many options with that light should I ever want to go SW, FOSW, Reef, Planted FW (like I am now) etc. I am going to initially set it up with 2 6700K 1 Pink and perhaps leave 1 10K in there. It has a built in timer with 3 separate grouping for individual on/off times. If I find that 2X24 watt lights are all I need then I can run one group or, run one group for a half ( the 10-12 hour) shift and then the 2nd for the remaining shift (5 or 6 hours) and then let the lunar lights come on for the night. Or just set one group to not come on or only come on for a minute or two and basically just use 1/2 the power or if I find I need all the 96 watts they are there. Beauty of this is good strong lite, built in digital times, only 1 power cord not several, allot of T5HO lights out there. Well built unit. A comparable LED fixture like the Maxspect would cost nearly double. Also these run pretty economically. Calculator said about 3.50 month.

That is just my two cents worth but I think it is a pretty strong arguement for the T5HO's. Par with this set up is not going to be an issue. Plenty there for anything on this tank. Tank is 24x12x13" 16 gallon tank from Innovative Marine.

If I get the Sat+ and later decide I think I want to try my hand at a reef tank I will be out looking for another light. More money.

Also the AquaticLife 4 tube T5HO unit is the same price as 2 Sat+ units. At Least the 24" ones are. Also you then have to2 units sitting on the tank. This unit will more or less cover the entire display surface of my tank from end to end and front to back.

Correct me please if I am wrong.

Bob


----------



## zackariah

Bob check the price of bulbs for the t5 they need to be replaced every 8-12 month's.


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## rbtmccord

*Bulb Cost*

Yep about $12 on average. 4x12 = $48 or about $4 per month.
Difference between the same output maxspect a difference of about $200 at $4 per month tube cost gets me about 50 months of light bulbs. There is and should be a savings with LED and in many ways I really like them. But I get more light for my buck right now with T5HO units it seems.
Plus a bit more versatility spectrum wise by going with the T5's rather thank buying a SW specific or FW specific LED fixture. I feel the T5 fixture gives me more options over time. It is hard to dumb down an LED unit that is set to deliver 16K of light spectrum to 6700k for FW. They also are more into the blue spectrum than the pink that FW like.
I am not arguing with you I am just saying from my modest amount fo research and cost comparison I feel I would be getting more flexibility with that T5HO system today.


----------



## rah-bop

My tank is a 30"x19"x12" 29 gallon. At most the light would be about 18" from the substrate.

I'm looking for an economical option that will grow plants and doesn't look awful. Since the SAT is a little cheaper than the SAT+ (and has more white LEDs? what?) I was wondering if I could get away with using one SAT and supplementing the color with the SAT+. I'm not opposed to using T5HOs as long as they are economical in the long run (10+ years). Also, I'm not planning on growing anything crazy so I'm fine with only medium light.

I thought maybe just a single Finnex Ray 2 would work except a) I'm not running CO2* and I've heard the Ray2 is pretty strong (?) and b) I'm planning on some pretty tall hardscape elements and I'm worried about casting giant shadows all over the tank. I was thinking maybe one light in the front and one in the back might work. But, golly, I am open to some other suggestions. I'm not 100% sold on anything, I'm just trying to find the best option for my situation. 

*yet... the next big thing to worry about [strike]oh god, this hobby. please send help[/strike]


----------



## Brian_Cali77

We all love nature right, creating balanced eco systems? That's why most of us like planted aquariums? Yes? What about our own eco system and not having to toss mercury filled T5's in the landfills annually? Just playing devils advocate... Lol There's more than a monetary component here. But as consumers, the money aspect is more visible. I like the direction LEDs are headed in terms of offering more full spectrum options. I acknowledge, cost still needs to drop as the technology evolves. Putting aside the "green movement" in lowering our carbon footprint, i personally like not having to buy new bulbs, or dealing with lighting that gets too hot and raises my water temp in the summer, or just the added power consumption in general. Lord knows i already have a MTS problem, so all these little tanks add up on the power bill. Guess that's not that much of an issue if you have a single tank or if you have Oprah money...lol


----------



## Brian_Cali77

rah-bop said:


> My tank is a 30"x19"x12" 29 gallon. At most the light would be about 18" from the substrate.
> 
> I'm looking for an economical option that will grow plants and doesn't look awful. Since the SAT is a little cheaper than the SAT+ (and has more white LEDs? what?) I was wondering if I could get away with using one SAT and supplementing the color with the SAT+. I'm not opposed to using T5HOs as long as they are economical in the long run (10+ years). Also, I'm not planning on growing anything crazy so I'm fine with only medium light.
> 
> I thought maybe just a single Finnex Ray 2 would work except a) I'm not running CO2* and I've heard the Ray2 is pretty strong (?) and b) I'm planning on some pretty tall hardscape elements and I'm worried about casting giant shadows all over the tank. I was thinking maybe one light in the front and one in the back might work. But, golly, I am open to some other suggestions. I'm not 100% sold on anything, I'm just trying to find the best option for my situation.
> 
> *yet... the next big thing to worry about [strike]oh god, this hobby. please send help[/strike]


I honestly think you'll be happier with the initial investment of two Sat+. Color will look better. And, as mentioned earlier, a single remote will operate both fixtures in unison.


----------



## rah-bop

I agree, if there's a solution that is better for the environment and uses less electricity, that would be the best. I would be happy to spend more for such an option. Thank you for bringing this up.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Maybe waiting a few more months would be a wiser choice, I mean, Current USA said these fixtures were for the effect. It didn't really have planted tanks in mind. 

Rumor has it that they're coming out with a new planted version of these fixtures, right Brian?


----------



## Brian_Cali77

Yes... that's the rumor. Well, it has been confirmed. They just didn't give me the juicy details.


----------



## somewhatshocked

First - ignore "watts per gallon" - that's not applicable to anything beyond old T12/T8 and even then, it's a crapshoot. 

At 18" from the substrate, you'd have low light with the + fixture. Adding a second fixture may not increase PAR but could definitely increase spread.



rah-bop said:


> My tank is a 30"x19"x12" 29 gallon. At most the light would be about 18" from the substrate.
> 
> I'm looking for an economical option that will grow plants and doesn't look awful. Since the SAT is a little cheaper than the SAT+ (and has more white LEDs? what?) I was wondering if I could get away with using one SAT and supplementing the color with the SAT+. I'm not opposed to using T5HOs as long as they are economical in the long run (10+ years). Also, I'm not planning on growing anything crazy so I'm fine with only medium light.
> 
> I thought maybe just a single Finnex Ray 2 would work except a) I'm not running CO2* and I've heard the Ray2 is pretty strong (?) and b) I'm planning on some pretty tall hardscape elements and I'm worried about casting giant shadows all over the tank. I was thinking maybe one light in the front and one in the back might work. But, golly, I am open to some other suggestions. I'm not 100% sold on anything, I'm just trying to find the best option for my situation.
> 
> *yet... the next big thing to worry about [strike]oh god, this hobby. please send help[/strike]


----------



## scapegoat

Seiryoku said:


> If I go with this fixture I would get at least two, maybe three as Current suggested 3-4 for my tank. Might hang my Radion (Gen2) over my FW tank one night this week to test coverage.
> 
> Current told me this fixture covers "roughly 6-8 inches both ways", which I imagine is why they suggest 3-4 fixtures for my tank.


that's what I thought. I priced 4 out at just over $500, which is a little more than I'd like to spend. It also seems that it would completely cover the top of the tank, which would be a mess for maintenance, unless something was fabricated to raise them all.


----------



## Seiryoku

scapegoat said:


> that's what I thought. I priced 4 out at just over $500, which is a little more than I'd like to spend. It also seems that it would completely cover the top of the tank, which would be a mess for maintenance, unless something was fabricated to raise them all.


It would also, in my opinion, ruin the clean look of my rimless aquarium. Currently hanging the two Kessils with a Radion hanging kit, which allows for easy raising/lowering of the fixtures.

Should probably wait for Current to come out with the plant fixture before buying new lighting, but I really don't like the Kessils fan noise...


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## syzygy9

I just ordered 1 of these for my 36G Bow. It will be ~18.5" from the substrate which should give me low light. I'm estimating PAR in the low to mid 20's based on the numbers provided by Current.

ATM I'm using a Ray2 with CO2, but I bought the wrong regulator and it's been such a battle to maintain proper balance. In the end the tanks was supposed to be for the kids to have fish. I'm hoping with this fixture I can still keep some plants, have fish, and be able to have the lights on for 10-12hrs instead of the 7 hrs that seemed to be the max with the Ray2.

It should arrive by Tuesday of next week. If all goes well, my 6mo old Ray2 will be listed in the SnS.


----------



## Jahn

Nice choice - I have to say, the kids LOVE this light, haha! Remote control madness! I just ask them during the natural daytime to leave it alone, on full spectrum. When the sun sets though, out come the thunderstorm LEDs! About 9 hours of total time on a day, with pressurized CO2, plants growing nicely in a 20 high in low to medium low light.


----------



## scapegoat

Seiryoku said:


> It would also, in my opinion, ruin the clean look of my rimless aquarium. Currently hanging the two Kessils with a Radion hanging kit, which allows for easy raising/lowering of the fixtures.
> 
> Should probably wait for Current to come out with the plant fixture before buying new lighting, but I really don't like the Kessils fan noise...


that isnt so much a problem for me as my tank is built in a wall w/ plenty of maintenance area. I'd just rather spend around $400 for a single LED fixture that is guaranteed to produce the proper output of light for plant growth, while taking up relatively little space, instead of $500 on 4 lights that will completely cover the top of the tank and maybe produce enough light.

the effects are downright cool though, and could make for some really "natural" displays. I was contemplating how difficult it would be to have a circuit + program to copy the IR signals from the remote in order to programatically control the effects. One could quite easily grab a feed from a weather service and run the lightning effects when there was a real lightning storm outside.


----------



## cosm3

If you have a Harmony remote you can copy the IR signals. I purchased this light yesterday but will be returning it. If I hang it over the tank, I cant see the fish below. While directly on top of the tank its great. The effects are good as well.


----------



## Jahn

Agreed with above btw - right on the top it'll reach down to give you low light/med low in a 20 high tank. from what cosm says, if you hang it, it just won't get you enough light.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

Yeah getting the intensity to what is considered high light is challenging with the Sat+. I'm hoping that the "plant LED" Current is planning will pair nicely with the + but offer a substantial boost in PAR -- something like how some here are pairing a Ray 2 with a Monster Ray.


----------



## owens81jw

cosm3 said:


> If you have a Harmony remote you can copy the IR signals. I purchased this light yesterday but will be returning it. If I hang it over the tank, I cant see the fish below. While directly on top of the tank its great. The effects are good as well.



where did you buy yours from?


----------



## owens81jw

which setting will give you a higher par ?

The White and red LED or White and Blue LED setting


----------



## oldpunk78

Well, I just bit the bullet. I think this will be awesome for my all ferns tank that's only 11" deep. The only thing I would have liked to see is some program-ability built in but that would have really shot the cost up I believe.


----------



## owens81jw

anybody has update dates with this lighting system?


----------



## Jahn

You can update this system? I had no idea - that would be cool if you could pop in some new LEDs or new programs on the remote - something like that?


----------



## nate2005

would the early adopters of this light say that the sat plus would work for a low light set up (no CO2) in a 40g (30x18x18)?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Jahn said:


> You can update this system? I had no idea - that would be cool if you could pop in some new LEDs or new programs on the remote - something like that?


He was talking about the rumours of a new LED+ fixture made for growing plants. You guys realize this model was made mostly for it's effect right? 

Unless you mean that you can "update" the system by buying a completely new fixture then yes, you can update it.


----------



## Jahn

nate2005 said:


> would the early adopters of this light say that the sat plus would work for a low light set up (no CO2) in a 40g (30x18x18)?


 
hmm, my 20 gallon high is 16 inches deep i believe, not sure if the PAR would reach fine for 18 inches, but in my tank the ground plants get enough low light for sure. that's with CO2 and dry ferts though. the cardinal flower plants are shooting up and even showing roots on the stems, so it's definitely growing.

and above post, gotcha on that - the RGB was more of a bells and whistles fun thing for the kids, but when it's serious plant growing time i leave it on full spectrum, and the plants do respond nicely - again, low and medium/low light plants.


----------



## backtoblue

nate2005 said:


> would the early adopters of this light say that the sat plus would work for a low light set up (no CO2) in a 40g (30x18x18)?


I have the 48" model on my 55 gallon. It's about 17-18" to the substrate (pool filter sand over FloraMax). I dose once a week with Flourish and every other day with Excel. I also put in several root tabs. I have Java Ferns, Crypt wendtii's, Amazon ruffle swords, Jungle Val and Dwarf Sag. Plants have been in about a month. The Jungle Val is going through a bit of an adjustment period, but new blades are growing. Jury's still out on the swords, as I haven't seen much growth but everything else is doing awesome - even the sag, which surprised me. 

YMMV of course, but in my case the LED + is working fine for me, with a little help from Seachem


----------



## zackariah

nate2005 said:


> would the early adopters of this light say that the sat plus would work for a low light set up (no CO2) in a 40g (30x18x18)?


Yes


----------



## uSiN

I am planning a low tech 20L (no CO2, not much ferts) and this light seems to be perfect for that. I have a couple questions regarding this fixture before purchasing.

1. Does the build look solid enough to be OK on a open top aquarium? Sitting couple inches from the water surface?
2. Anyone have some info on how stem plants have done in this light? Do the bottom leaves stay intact?

Thanks


----------



## zackariah

uSiN said:


> I am planning a low tech 20L (no CO2, not much ferts) and this light seems to be perfect for that. I have a couple questions regarding this fixture before purchasing.
> 
> 1. Does the build look solid enough to be OK on a open top aquarium? Sitting couple inches from the water surface?
> 2. Anyone have some info on how stem plants have done in this light? Do the bottom leaves stay intact?
> 
> Thanks


Mine are both on open tanks doing just fine. As far as stem plants I have wisteria doing fine as well.


----------



## krisw

For shallower tanks, this light does wonderfully. I'm using it on a 36"x8"x9" long bookshelf tank. 



On this tank, I can get up to 100 PAR at substrate (7" from light) which is more than enough. I actually had to dial it back. If interested, I measured PAR for all of the various modes.


----------



## rbtmccord

*Par Numbers*

Thanks for doing the testing for the PAR numbers.
What is considered low, med and high in the PAR world for Freshwater Planted tanks.


----------



## rbtmccord

*For those looking for higher light at deeper levels*

I was at Petsmart yesterday and saw that they carry the Aqueon T5HO lights. They has twin 24" T5 light for $60. They bulbs were their 6700K and a flora light. 
That is allot of lite for the $$$$$. Actually about 28 watts total as the 24" bulbs are rated at 14 watt.
I am considering the SatPlus but I am not certain it will provide the spectrum and PAR for high level demanding plants. My tank is max 12" deep.


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## krisw

According to this thread, PAR equates to:

Values between 10-30 are considered low light.
Values between 30-80 are considered medium light.
Values between 80-120 are considered high light.


----------



## rbtmccord

*PAR Values*

That sounds great as my tanks depth to the substrate is between 10" or less. So I should be in the med-high range at the bottom.

Thanks


----------



## somewhatshocked

krisw: I think your reminder that there are several different lighting modes for this fixture was the selling point for me. 

Think I'm going to bite the bullet and order a 24" fixture for one of my 20 longs.


----------



## krisw

somewhatshocked said:


> krisw: I think your reminder that there are several different lighting modes for this fixture was the selling point for me.
> 
> Think I'm going to bite the bullet and order a 24" fixture for one of my 20 longs.


I had been using a TrueLumen+ with a dimmer previously, and it worked well, but it's very nice to custom tailor the colors with the Satellite+. Be sure to post your experience with the 20L.


----------



## somewhatshocked

There's still some hesitation on my part because I'm reluctant to buy a fixture that isn't 30" long. For low light, it's between the Current fixture and a modular Aqueon fixture I've already got on-hand. Debating. Close to just buying the Current, though.


----------



## syzygy9

My 24" version finally arrived and I placed it side by side with my Ray2 on my 36G (~18" from substrate). The difference is more shocking than expected in a couple of respects. Overall I'm pretty happy, but still wish they offered a 30".

The GOOD:
This fixture is so slim and sleek and because it's black it works perfectly with the black rim on my tank. It sits right on my glass top, but by pulling the legs out the full 30" tank width I can assure that it is centered and won't move around when i open the hinged front to feed the fish. The Ray2 legs only extend about an inch or 2 on either side so it just sat on top and moved around every time I fed the fish (small irk, but it was very annoying to me).

The addition of RGB is awesome. The Ray2 can grow plants like crazy and everybody who saw my tank was impressed with the quality and color of the light, but comparing side by side with the Current FW+ it is obvious that with the Ray2 everything looks a bit washed out. It's like the first time you ever saw a movie on Blu-ray. The DVD version is great but the Blu-ray adds something that you never realized was missing. I prefer the full spectrum mode, but my wife prefers the setting with a bit of red. Both look great and bring life and detail to everything in the tank.

The UNSURE:
I was purposely switching from mid light to low light, but was still pretty shocked at how low the light level appears to my eye. Based on specs I was expecting my PAR to drop from about 39 to 25, but it looks like 1/3 the light. I will let my crypts and wisteria be the judge. I've increased my photoperiod from 7hrs to 10hrs to help compensate. On the plus side the fish seem to hide way less now.

I like the lower moonlight and the sunrise settings and will likely use those regularly, but most of the others are just weird. The lightning would be a lot more cool if it were random instead of just a set loop effect. Either way, I don't see it being used much.

The BAD:
The build quality on the remote (particularly the graphic overlay) is pretty poor. Mine has dings and scratches and even a small tear and that was right out of the box. I also don't like that the IR sensor is on a separate cord. It's not a TV or stereo that you will be sitting and fiddling with for hours while sitting on the sofa. Build the IR receiver into one end of the fixture and call it a day. In this application the remote should purely be a mechanism to keep the fixture design clean. Obviously this is just my opinion though.


----------



## dasob85

I just got a 36". The par is definitely pretty low and i was expecting that. However, does anyone else notice that it seems darker directly under the light and brighter towards the edges of the tank? It is really quite strange lol. I have it under full spectrum and the shrimp colors are much prettier.

edit: and syzygy, maybe you got one that someone returned? Mine looks pretty new out of the box.


----------



## somewhatshocked

syzygy9: Could you post photos? That would really help those interested in the fixture.


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## Brian_Cali77

I really like the sunrise mode too..Here's some pics in the "*SUNRISE*" mode. Sometimes I like to put this on hours before or after I put the lights on full blast. It has a nice rosette color that gives the colors on fish and plants a subtle glow


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## syzygy9

somewhatshocked said:


> syzygy9: Could you post photos? That would really help those interested in the fixture.


I was about half-way through typing up my psuedo-review when it occurred to me that I should have taken some photos. I'll see if I can get some pics tonight.


----------



## zackariah

somewhatshocked said:


> There's still some hesitation on my part because I'm reluctant to buy a fixture that isn't 30" long. For low light, it's between the Current fixture and a modular Aqueon fixture I've already got on-hand. Debating. Close to just buying the Current, though.


I have an aqueon modular that I moded to have 4 strips instead of three. I also have two satellite+. Way happier with the current. And cheaper considering what I spent on strips for the aqueon. The aqueon was washed out. The current I can adjust to make the colors pop. Plus the aqueon LEDs don't go to the end of the fixture. The currents do. There are pics on another thread about this light that I and others posted. I will post some here when I get home.


Brian and Kris the tanks look great. Brian can we get a full spec pic?


----------



## syzygy9

somewhatshocked said:


> syzygy9: Could you post photos? That would really help those interested in the fixture.


Here are some pics taken this morning. The brightness difference between the fixtures seems a lot less during the day. For some reason it is more shocking at night when there are no other light sources on.

Please don't judge the scape too much. Since shutting off the CO2 my bacopas are struggling, my sword has lost half it's size and the crypts mostly melted. I've recently placed some wisteria stems wherever there was an open space. I'll figure out who goes and who stays and where after they prove they are going to survive.

Pic1 - Ray 2
Pic2 - Current Freshwater+ in Full Spectrum Mode
Pic3 - Current Freshwater+ in Mode with a bit of red

Pic2 seems to my eye to be the most color accurate though I realize these images look only subtly different. Note the difference in color of the substrate in each pic as well as the color of the single stem of Ludwigia Red Palustris right in the center. Also, the rock directly under the cardinal tetra (just right of center) in image 1 is a piece of local pinkish granite (with some algae). In images 2 and 3 you can see the hint of pink between the crypt leaf shadows, but it really looks mostly green in image 1.

Interestingly, the camera does not capture the washed out look for the Ray2 very well. When I look at the tank, instead of seeing the textured beige wall thru the tank I mostly see a green glare. This glare is present, though less, if I run the Current Freshwater+ in white LED only mode.

Hope these are of some use to somebody.


----------



## somewhatshocked

Ugh. Okay. I caved.

Ordering a couple of these fixtures.


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## Brian_Cali77

I'd love to hear your thoughts when you get them Jake. What length did you get? What's the tank you'll be using it on?


----------



## somewhatshocked

24 inch - to be used on a new 20L (the newest PRL tank in my 20L journal).

Tank currently has a 30" Coralife T5NO that sits 3-4 inches above the glass top of the tank - bent the legs, as you can kinda see in this older photo:










Getting tired of the remaining T5NO fixtures exploding/melting and/or cracking glass tops, so I figure it's best to switch to LEDs, as nearly all of my other tanks are lit by LED fixtures. 

Not a fan of fixtures that don't span the entire length of a tank normally, so I'm hoping there aren't any dark areas.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

Oh cool... here's to hoping there's no dark areas! I've been hearing a lot of reports of those coralife 30" fixtures having some design flaw. I thought that was just with the earlier runs and they'd replace them? Anyways, sorry to get off topic... if the Current LED+ is too short for your liking, where most people buy lighting for their tank, you can now have an excuse to try out AquaTops high clarity 60H equivalent for this lighting!  I've been eying up that tank myself since I've been so impressed with the 20cm cube's quality. I was thinking of using my two LED+ fixtures on it as my livingroom tank. We'll see... the ever so perpetual MTS condition continues! Lol


----------



## oldpunk78

oldpunk78 said:


> Well, I just bit the bullet. I think this will be awesome for my all ferns tank that's only 11" deep. The only thing I would have liked to see is some program-ability built in but that would have really shot the cost up I believe.


Oh man, I just checked the tracking for mine. Ups says there's a delay with my package because of a train derailment. Yikes! 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## londonloco

I'm interested in this light for my three 20g longs, which are low light no fert no co2 planted tanks. Anyone using it on a 12" high tank?


----------



## somewhatshocked

My fixture will be here Friday/Monday and I'll be using it on a 20L, londonloco. 

I'll take photos and provide details once it gets here.


----------



## londonloco

Thanks Some, I also just ordered one. Figured I'd try it also....


----------



## rbtmccord

*Went another direction*

I wanted this and studied this and just could not get convinced that it was the right one so I went T5HO.
I do know that they are talking about one with timer built in and more pointed to plants. Just no idea when they might have it out.


----------



## somewhatshocked

This fixture and just about any T5HO fixture are worlds apart in terms of PAR. The LED fixture is low light in most applications. T5HO is usually medium at worst and really high at best in most applications.



rbtmccord said:


> I wanted this and studied this and just could not get convinced that it was the right one so I went T5HO.
> I do know that they are talking about one with timer built in and more pointed to plants. Just no idea when they might have it out.


----------



## oldpunk78

Got mine today. I love it.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


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## somewhatshocked

Love mine, too. Here's my brief writeup.

Think I'll order more as soon as I can afford them.


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## Brian_Cali77

Cool write-up and (iphone) pics, Jake! Especially the part about wanting them for every tank you have! I think I feel the same way... Haha


----------



## somewhatshocked

Here's a shot of Full Spectrum - over one of my shrimp breeding tanks:










Can't see it in the shot but there are no dead spots.


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## acitydweller

Im a fan as well "D


----------



## Jahn

fan here too, and +1 on the living room fun thing. my son figured out that turning the white light all the way off (the black arrows on the remote) let him wash the entire tank in just the RGB lights. thus he gets volcano reds, deep blues, algae water greens, and all the betweens like purple and such. hope it doesn't freak the fauna out too much!

Edit- I posted in the aquascaping forum, but for folks who use this RGB LED, check out the combo with a whiteboard and a backlight with the Current:



Jahn said:


> Thanks for this thread, all! I really like how it hides all the stuff hanging off the back of the tank like the filter, cables, CO2 line with a white foamboard, and at the same time serves as a backdrop for light diffusion. Backlight is the old Aqueon CFL hood's full spectrum bulb, and now that the HOB is propped by the foamboard i could use the HOB's plastic offset dongle to offset the aqueon hood light from the back of the tank at any angle needed. Separate outlet from the LED so it could run even when the LED turned off due to the timer, and bingo - done! Here's the setup, and some examples of how it looks with the Current Freshwater LED plus - RGB madness!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a Sunrise look, with a low light orange coming from the LED:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a little moonrise:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a Blair Witch Project look with the LED off and just the backlight on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here's my son's favorite, an Aqua look that makes it seem like the water is blue and the plants still pop green:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Total cost - 10 bucks for the foamboard, that's it!


----------



## dprais1

I just ordered one from kens fish, 48", for my rainbow fish tank. should make them look stunning.

it better make them look stunning.

best price I could find, $135.00 w/ free shipping and no sales tax


----------



## Popeye Doyle

*On the Fence*

I want to upgrade the level of light to grow ground cover style plants at the bottom level of my tank. These certainly require more light penetration down to 20" from the water surface. I can really get a solid answer if this new LED+ will do any better than my dual Aquatic Life T5 HO. I have a 46gal Bowfront so the limited side wall reduces options. The affects are cool, but growth at the sub-straight is the objective.


----------



## Chester

Hmm just ordered it for my mr aqua 12 long that I am going to set up this week... should be nice!


----------



## somewhatshocked

If you read through this thread (the one we're writing on), you'll see that this fixture would provide extremely low light at 20". So not sufficient for anything more than Crypts or Anubias.



Popeye Doyle said:


> I want to upgrade the level of light to grow ground cover style plants at the bottom level of my tank. These certainly require more light penetration down to 20" from the water surface. I can really get a solid answer if this new LED+ will do any better than my dual Aquatic Life T5 HO. I have a 46gal Bowfront so the limited side wall reduces options. The affects are cool, but growth at the sub-straight is the objective.


----------



## zackariah

+1 /\
Growing a carpet would require a shallow tank. Mine is are 18". 15" to the substrate and my micro swords are alive but don't seam to grow.


----------



## snichols

I am new to here, and really planted tanks. I have a125 set up with Mgopm, sts, and a gravel cap. I have started the plants, too. My question is, do you think two of these mounted side by side would provide enough light for plant growth of say ludwigia peruensis and rotala indica? Also, do you think I may need to supplement CO2 with a sump? Should I open a new thread for the 
last question? 


Thanks
Steve


----------



## Popeye Doyle

zackariah said:


> +1 /\
> Growing a carpet would require a shallow tank. Mine is are 18". 15" to the substrate and my micro swords are alive but don't seam to grow.


Fair enough answer. As a Newbie to the planted tank world; my expectations for my existing tank might need revision. 

See if my research logic seems reasonable. It seems to get high PAR light value down to 20"+ might not go hand-in-hand with a casual room environment. I really don't desire to create a volume of light that has the box of water so bright is overwhelms the room just to grow ground cover at that depth. If creating a aquascape with ground cover type plants is the goal. Does it make sense to simply start with a shallow 12-15" deep? This should both reduce the number of lights required and open the lighting options right?


----------



## JEden8

Newb to LED's but am very interested in this fixture for my 90 gallon. I need to replace all 4 of my T5HO's anyways so I was just thinking of dropping the money into one of these. However, my question is what effect will this have with my glosso?


----------



## scotie aquatic

I don't believe it alone over a 90 will be sufficient


----------



## Brian_Cali77

I read glosso needs 30 to 40 PAR with available co2 at least to grow. A single 24" Sat LED+ gets about 21 PAR @ 24" (according to Current) from light to sub. You'll definitely need two fixtures.. The glosso could get leggy though because as a foreground plant, there might be some considerable PAR reduction toward the front of the tank the further it is away from being directly under the light.


----------



## VJM

Just picked up the 36"-48" unit from Drs. Foster and Smith for $100 shipped. They are having a big summer sale. 

I played with it for an hour at my LFS today, and loved it. Would have loved to give them the business, but they wanted $160. Just too much difference this time.


----------



## xiaoxiy

Have you guys seen the flexible, retrofit satellite LED+ strip?

I'm thinking about getting one and retrofitting my current T5's.

http://www.current-usa.com/aquarium-led-lights/satellite-flexible-led-with-rgb


----------



## gus6464

xiaoxiy said:


> Have you guys seen the flexible, retrofit satellite LED+ strip?
> 
> I'm thinking about getting one and retrofitting my current T5's.
> 
> http://www.current-usa.com/aquarium-led-lights/satellite-flexible-led-with-rgb


Nice! Is it already available for purchase?


----------



## xiaoxiy

Reefbuilders has prices, but not the release date.

http://reefbuilders.com/2013/07/01/...ible-strip-lights-packed-controlling-options/


----------



## somewhatshocked

Those RGB LED strips have been available from eBay for ages. Remotes and all.


----------



## joeyNdana

In researching this light I understand the Par levels would put this light at low light for a 75 gallon 21" high tank. Some have mentioned pairing two lights or paring with a Finnex Ray 2. This may be a dumb question, still new to planted tanks, does having two lights double the par value?

Ordered one of these in 48". If the Par in my tank with this light is 21, if I go hi tech and add Co2 and add a second one of these, will I have a par of 42?


----------



## jschwabe5

I've been looking for a new light for my 40 gallon hex it's 27" deep, 18" width. The tank is planted with java ferns, tiger lotus, dwarf lilly, crypt wendtii, cyperus helferi, and xmas moss. Very slow growth, lotus and lily look starved light very long stems and few leaves. I am dosing dry ferts, excel, and using sicce co2 life. The tank currently has 2 Marineland double brights on 11hrs/day, i am not sure the par value on marineland. The Current Sat lighting has many nice features and good pricing, but I'm concerned that it will not be enough par for tank depth. The Finnex Ray2 7000k daylight is another option, but would it be too much? I read some reviews on finnex that many experience algae blooms, and have to cut back on lighting hours. I could use some good advice which one would be best for my setup.


----------



## somewhatshocked

PAR data for the Finnex fixtures are available in the Finnex sponsor forum. You'll see - based on the depth of your tank - exactly where you'd be when using those fixtures.

The Current fixture would mean you'll have extremely low levels of lighting and it would not be suitable for a tank that is 27 inches deep.


----------



## owens81jw

Anybody using this light on a 29gallon tank? 18ins tall?


----------



## somewhatshocked

At 18", you'd be in low light territory.


----------



## joeyNdana

Got mine yesterday, really like it. Couldn't find much info on my Beamswork hi lumen fixture as it would relate to plants. Started experimenting with plants and felt it was either too much light or not the right color temp. This had some nice features and I knew what I was working with given data available. Didn't lose much in brightness and have a nice warm color temp that brought out the orange in my sarpae tetras. We'll see how it goes as a low light tank.


----------



## owens81jw

somewhatshocked said:


> At 18", you'd be in low light territory.


Looking to grow just dwarf sag n Vals


----------



## joeyNdana

I like this light even better after rescaping and adding Eco Complete. Before picture two posts above. Work in progress, by the time I planted this 75 gallon tank yesterday I had already changed the substrate and replanted a 125. So I imagine I'll be taking a closer look at it this weekend. 

Back to the subject, really like the Current LED + when I put it on the tank for the first time last week. The black substrate seems to bring out the light very nicely.


----------



## Michael M

I just ordered a 36" version of these lights to replace my Ray2 24" on my 40B.

I had a 36" Ray2 (hello algae) on my 40B but half of the unit stopped illuminating so I replaced it with a spare 24" Ray2 I had. I don't really mind the 24" Ray2 light output but I kind of thingk it's high light for a 40B.

I'm only growing vals, bacopa, xmas moss, and water sprite probably depth of 16" would this light be acceptable for this set up?


----------



## somewhatshocked

I think you'll be fine using it for low light. Should be great for moss, especially.


----------



## Current USA

Hey All,

This thread might help answer some of your questions/ concerns with the Satellite Plus. A key point to highlight is tanks deeper than 12" generally speaking are wide enough to require 2 fixtures for the right amount of coverage which keeps the bottom of your tank hovering at ~35 micromoles of light.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=3787369#post3787369


----------



## VJM

Mine arrived today, and it is amazing on the 12g long! Took all of two minutes to set up and start playing with. Still getting the hang of the custom colors, but very cool. 

Thanks Current!


----------



## Current USA

keep us posted, VJM!


----------



## VJM

Just bought my second one. This time it is one of the 18"-24", for a Mr. Aqua 6g bookshelf tank. 

I need some sort of 12 step program, obviously.


----------



## scotie aquatic

Does anyone have opinions about this light ran with a ray2 on a 4ft tank thats only 18 tall? Thats what im considering running...?


----------



## Current USA

VJM said:


> Just bought my second one. This time it is one of the 18"-24", for a Mr. Aqua 6g bookshelf tank.
> 
> I need some sort of 12 step program, obviously.


Awesome!


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ When do you think the planted version will come out and will it just be the same as the Satellite LED+ but higher power?


----------



## Michael M

scotie aquatic said:


> Does anyone have opinions about this light ran with a ray2 on a 4ft tank thats only 18 tall? Thats what im considering running...?


I'm keeping my Ray2 on my 40B that is 17" tall. I think I may run it for a shorter duration though.

This light is cool for viewing but I don't think it's a replacement for a Ray2. It is a good auxiliary light and nice for making your tank look pretty.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

I had a 24" Ray 2 on my 26g bow front that's 21" tall. I sold my Ray 2 and got two Current Sat LED+. Although buying two Current fixtures versus one Ray 2 is a bigger investment, IMO the color production (preset and custom control) looks way better and not washed out. Reds, oranges, colors in general just look more vivid and pop. I wouldn't have believed it until I tried it.. you really can get a sense of the difference, especially after starring at your tank for months on end under a Ray 2. It's like going from standard definition to HD! Lol

Edit: Don't get me wrong, the Ray 2 still rocks.. have one on my GLA 6g and another on the 60-F. Just real difference in color output which boils down to preference.


----------



## PeterN1986

For my 20g high tank (16" height), I have a Ray2 suspended ~8" above the substrate right now. It's a low-tech tank with O+ tabs in the MGOPS-capped with eco. I am seeing lots of positive reviews for the Satellite+, including Brian's above me. I am really curious to see how the Satellite+ looks for my tank.

My question is: 

- Should I get this light now?
- Or wait until their "planted" version comes out?
- Or wait for Finnex's Planted+ LED comes out in November (confirmed by Lowe in another thread)? I don't think I have the heart to wait until November though!


----------



## scotie aquatic

Michael M said:


> I'm keeping my Ray2 on my 40B that is 17" tall. I think I may run it for a shorter duration though.
> 
> This light is cool for viewing but I don't think it's a replacement for a Ray2. It is a good auxiliary light and nice for making your tank look pretty.


Was going to run it with the ray2, right now I have one 96watt pc with the ray2 and seems to be doing fine, but thevpc will be replaced with the satalit plus


----------



## Brian_Cali77

I say go for it scotie.. then when the Current "plant LED" comes out, the Sat LED+ will make a great companion light.. the Ray2, well.. another tank? Haha

Most people buy lights after a tank, I think I'll start a 60P for the higher PAR Current plant LED! **smh - mts strikes again**


----------



## Ach1Ll3sH33L

picked up one of these on sale a few weeks ago from dr fosters. Im happy with how it looks, plants are pearling, however my light developed a problem where it randomly dims in and out, luckily dr fosters is sending a replacement. anybody else have this issue or did i just get unlucky?


----------



## Current USA

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ When do you think the planted version will come out and will it just be the same as the Satellite LED+ but higher power?


Things haven't been finalized yet but Planted tank will be the first to know! :icon_smil


----------



## Current USA

Brian_Cali77 said:


> I had a 24" Ray 2 on my 26g bow front that's 21" tall. I sold my Ray 2 and got two Current Sat LED+. Although buying two Current fixtures versus one Ray 2 is a bigger investment, IMO the color production (preset and custom control) looks way better and not washed out. Reds, oranges, colors in general just look more vivid and pop. I wouldn't have believed it until I tried it.. you really can get a sense of the difference, especially after starring at your tank for months on end under a Ray 2. It's like going from standard definition to HD! Lol
> 
> Edit: Don't get me wrong, the Ray 2 still rocks.. have one on my GLA 6g and another on the 60-F. Just real difference in color output which boils down to preference.


Thanks for the compliment Brian!


----------



## scotty82

subscribed to this. Looking forward to the planted tank version. 

Current USA. question for ya. With these lights or the planted versions coming out, are there any type of dimmer or built in timer to do moonlights?


----------



## Current USA

A programmable timer might be coming out soon!


----------



## bitFUUL

Current USA said:


> A programmable timer might be coming out soon!


Sweet! Or a cheap potentiometer would be nice. :thumbsup:


----------



## scotty82

Current USA said:


> A programmable timer might be coming out soon!


music to my ears,,, or eyes actually.


----------



## backtoblue

Ach1Ll3sH33L said:


> picked up one of these on sale a few weeks ago from dr fosters. Im happy with how it looks, plants are pearling, however my light developed a problem where it randomly dims in and out, luckily dr fosters is sending a replacement. anybody else have this issue or did i just get unlucky?


Stupid question: are you sure you're not on one the "dynamic" settings? I have not had this issue, but of course you might just have a defective unit.


----------



## Michael M

backtoblue said:


> Stupid question: are you sure you're not on one the "dynamic" settings? I have not had this issue, but of course you might just have a defective unit.



I was thinking the same thing. When you use those presets they have a 'cloud cover' effect, it's not static amount of light. It's a cool effect but it sounds exactly as he describes.


----------



## PeterN1986

I got my Satellite+ today for my 20H! I definitely agree with Brian's opinion saying it's like seeing it in HD vs. standard def after having my Ray2 suspended 8" above the tank for so long. The Ray2 was SUPER bright and it lit up the wall behind the tank totally white while suspended. So my tank did NOT have any white background; it was just the wall behind it was lit up THAT much by the Ray2. 

*Before (w./ Ray2):*











*Now (w./ Satellite+ and some O+ tabs):*


----------



## Ach1Ll3sH33L

backtoblue said:


> Stupid question: are you sure you're not on one the "dynamic" settings? I have not had this issue, but of course you might just have a defective unit.


Not a stupid question, that was my first thought as well. I got the replacement and simply swapped the power transformer after realizing it was getting very hot and that seemed to fix the issue, nothing wrong with the light itself roud:


----------



## madness

I don't know how I missed this release.

I have been looking for an LED light with lightning and other effects to put on a low-light tank for kids to enjoy without spending $500+.


----------



## brybell

I just got my Current LED + yesterday!

So far I love it (and I dont even have fish yet) haha....ill post pics later.


----------



## Jester946

do I want the 24-36" light, or the 36" to 48" for my 12 gallon long?

High light, injected co2....


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## Jester946

nvm...ordered the 36-48...it was cheaper. I have a PAR meter, so I'll adjust it from there....


----------



## jpappy789

I'm seriously considering this fixture for a low to low-mid light tank. But I'm also thinking about the FugeRay and the Marineland Double Bright. 

I really like the customization options for the look. But are there just an on/off option if I want it on a timer? In other words, say if I'm running the full spectrum during the day and want moonlights at night, do you physically have to switch between lighting options?


----------



## PeterN1986

jpappy789 said:


> I'm seriously considering this fixture for a low to low-mid light tank. But I'm also thinking about the FugeRay and the Marineland Double Bright.
> 
> I really like the customization options for the look. But are there just an on/off option if I want it on a timer? In other words, say if I'm running the full spectrum during the day and want moonlights at night, do you physically have to switch between lighting options?


I have mine on a timer and yes, it will be off when you want it to be off. If you want any different light setting, you manually have to change it via the remote. Cannot automatically program one light setting to follow another and so on.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

@Peter and @jpappy 

Current just had a product announcement for their Ramp Timers. With these timers, it will be possible to automate the modes on the Sat+ (i.e. the sunset, moonlight, daylight, storm, etc.) without the remote. 

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=390249

At the moment, until I get my hands on a Ramp Timer, I'm using a conventional timer...so the Sat+ just turns on from the mode it was last turned off on.


----------



## Current USA

Glad you guys are joining the "club"! Feel free to message me if you all have any questions! Posting here or in our forum would work as well but may have longer lead time for response! 

Thank you all so much for your support! There's more to come!! MUCH more!


----------



## Notorious93

Once they release a brighter model I'm going to get one or two and the ramp timer pro..hurry up and release already!!! really looking foward to it


----------



## Current USA

Sorry for the wait! It might be a couple more months until it launches!


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## jpappy789

Brian_Cali77 said:


> @Peter and @jpappy
> 
> Current just had a product announcement for their Ramp Timers. With these timers, it will be possible to automate the modes on the Sat+ (i.e. the sunset, moonlight, daylight, storm, etc.) without the remote.
> 
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=390249
> 
> At the moment, until I get my hands on a Ramp Timer, I'm using a conventional timer...so the Sat+ just turns on from the mode it was last turned off on.


Thanks for the info! I saw the announcement on another thread so I wasn't sure what the upgrades were going to be.

I'm assuming the product will likely be out of my price range. The LED+ is about the price I used to pay for comparable T5 fixtures so I'm ok with the current model.

My main concern was if I'm not going to be around all the time and don't want the full spectrum to be on too long or too short. If I have them on during the day, and switch to moonlights overnight then I have to switch back during the day again manually. I'd rather do that than just on during the day and off at night. I guess I can make do though.


----------



## jpappy789

Ok, well dumb me thought the "new release" was a new fixture with the timer built in...but if I read it correctly it's essentially a single timer that can compatible with the different LED+ settings so you can do a 24 hr control of when each one turns on/off? 

If so, I may pull the trigger on the LED+ right now and wait and save up for when the timer is released.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

There's a downloadable .PDF on post #6 by Vermino... am I reading the .PDF correctly that the Single Ramp Timer is only good for a gradual "gentle" sunrise / sunset on/off function... and if you want the other modes in there like moonlight, you'll need at least the Dual? Pro for all the other functions like storm w/ prev already mentioned. But I only see the MSRP for the single as $39.95... What's the MSRP on the Dual? Kevin (sort of) confirmed that the Pro will be "around $105-150" as indicated by Vermino... 

So now we know the Single price, possibly the Pro version... SO how about the Dual?  Kevin????


----------



## jpappy789

Brian_Cali77 said:


> There's a downloadable .PDF on post #6 by Vermino... am I reading the .PDF correctly that the Single Ramp Timer is only good for a gradual "gentle" sunrise / sunset on/off function... and if you want the other modes in there like moonlight, you'll need at least the Dual? Pro for all the other functions like storm w/ prev already mentioned. But I only see the MSRP for the single as $39.95... What's the MSRP on the Dual? Kevin (sort of) confirmed that the Pro will be "around $105-150" as indicated by Vermino...
> 
> So now we know the Single price, possibly the Pro version... SO how about the Dual?  Kevin????


Ok, read through it again and I think you are correct. Single for on/off with the ramp up and ramp down setting. Dual for moonlight. Pro for everything else. 

Price for the Dual...probably between $40 and $150 :biggrin:

Now to wait until "October"


----------



## Brian_Cali77

jpappy789 said:


> Price for the Dual...probably between $40 and $150 :biggrin:


Yup... think you nailed it! Haha... :icon_lol:


----------



## JEden8

Well I purchased the 48" version of this fixture at my LFS and it's damaged...Not too happy about that. It has scratches along the top of it that appear to have been filled in with a sharpee. The box appeared to be unopened and the light was still zip tied to the box. I'm hoping that my LFS will allow me to exchange it tomorrow...


----------



## JEden8

Light was exchanged with no issues. Nice fixture!


----------



## Current USA

Brian_Cali77 said:


> There's a downloadable .PDF on post #6 by Vermino... am I reading the .PDF correctly that the Single Ramp Timer is only good for a gradual "gentle" sunrise / sunset on/off function... and if you want the other modes in there like moonlight, you'll need at least the Dual? Pro for all the other functions like storm w/ prev already mentioned. But I only see the MSRP for the single as $39.95... What's the MSRP on the Dual? Kevin (sort of) confirmed that the Pro will be "around $105-150" as indicated by Vermino...
> 
> So now we know the Single price, possibly the Pro version... SO how about the Dual?  Kevin????


Dual timer will range from 50-80 :icon_smil


----------



## jpappy789

Received mine the other day and I'm impressed...it's my first LED, so maybe the whole brightness factor is what's most impressive to me, but I like the customization aspect of this fixture and it's very sleek. Can't wait for the new timers now!!!

I did happen to throw away the instructions accidentally with the box though (in hindsight, I probably should have kept that too). I thought I put it on 'full spectrum' but then at a random time it will do one of the storm settings and start cycling through the colors. Did I press something unintentionally on the remote that would do this? I have no problem changing it back manually, but it just seems screwy to me.


----------



## andrewjohn007

*Current USA*

Check out their website for a PDF of the instructions


----------



## Bradleyv1714

So, I went to a lfs and saw this for the first time. It was awesome! I have a 55gal tank wil eco substrate and a top layer of regular gravel. I currently have a shop light with 2 t8 lights and I was wondering if upgrading to this would be a good idea? Better lighting? I really like the setting but I'm looking for higher lighting. Will this provide that much more light worth the money to buy it. I am looking for something that wont need too much maintenance. I dont want to dose co2 at all.


----------



## jpappy789

I suppose it depends on what you have currently. The LED+ is low-medium lighting, probably closer to low given the PAR you'd get on a tank that deep. But that would fit your needs (ie. No CO2)

T8 lighting is pretty variable from what I can tell in terms of PAR. Also depends on the quality of the reflectors. So it would be hard to say 100% without some data from your specific bulbs/fixture.

But in general, it would probably at least be worth it given the other benefits of LEDs.


----------



## Bradleyv1714

jpappy789 said:


> I suppose it depends on what you have currently. The LED+ is low-medium lighting, probably closer to low given the PAR you'd get on a tank that deep. But that would fit your needs (ie. No CO2)
> 
> T8 lighting is pretty variable from what I can tell in terms of PAR. Also depends on the quality of the reflectors. So it would be hard to say 100% without some data from your specific bulbs/fixture.
> 
> But in general, it would probably at least be worth it given the other benefits of LEDs.


Thanks for replying quickly! 

I have the cheapest with white reflector standard t8 shop light from home depot and I use the t8 that I believed where 6500k but the don't say anything so they may be 5000k to 6500k not really sure as I havent changed them in a while. (Maybe 3 months) I really would like to have some smaller lower to substrate plants growing as I have crypt parva but they are just surviving I think.

should I just wait for the plant version or just buy the version out now? I'm thinking of waiting for the possibility of it giving more light. Not exactly sure though. Hmmmm


----------



## Bradleyv1714

If I did get one what size would I need to get? For a 55gal tank...


----------



## jpappy789

Well, there's a 36-48" and a 48-60" fixture...so either would work but the latter would give you better coverage.

Not sure what the plant specific fixture is going to be like. Definitely more PAR, I would assume.


----------



## Bradleyv1714

So this fixture would still keep me in low light?


----------



## somewhatshocked

Yes, you'll still be in low light, as mentioned previously.


----------



## Bradleyv1714

Damn, the sales person at the store was set on selling me her last one of those. It sells for 170 plus tax. She was telling me that with that light I would definitely have med light. Ughhhh thanks to you guys for this as I wouldve spent basically 200 to have the same lighting I do just a lot cooler and nicer. I thought I had found the light that would put me into the low to medium light area. I guess ill keep looking.


----------



## jpappy789

That's quite a big markup. You could get one online for MUCH cheaper, or a higher PAR light for that price...


----------



## Brian_Cali77

Bradleyv1714 said:


> Damn, the sales person at the store was set on selling me her last one of those. It sells for 170 plus tax. She was telling me that with that light I would definitely have med light. Ughhhh thanks to you guys for this as I wouldve spent basically 200 to have the same lighting I do just a lot cooler and nicer. I thought I had found the light that would put me into the low to medium light area. I guess ill keep looking.


If you want medium light with this fixture... buy two of them 'online.' Two of them would just be slightly more than that LFS's single unit (w/ free shipping). Dr. Fosters & Smith usually has the best price. 

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=26107


----------



## Bradleyv1714

For that price I might just buy one since it looks so much nicer than having my home made hood.

Now im a little unsure of the size... should I get 36 - 48 or 48- 60? Im mostly asking because they dont have any 48 - 60 until 8/21 and I wanted to buy it asap. Lol! Will there be a problem if I get a 36 - 48?


----------



## jpappy789

The larger fixture will give you more spread. The 36-48" is just under the three foot mark for length.


----------



## Brian_Cali77

Get the 48-60" version... the 21st isn't that long of a wait.


----------



## Bradleyv1714

Lol, I know... I just placed an order for 1 of them. I'm thinking and hoping that one will be enough to make my tank look a lot nicer than the double t8 bulbs I have! Crossing my fingers that they come out with a plants version of this in the future. Thank you guys for helping me save $50 plus taxes. Woot woot

now im just trying to figure out how to place my driftwood inmy tank so that it can look nice and still let me have tall plants in the back. Ahhhhh


----------



## otisinhotville

I purchased a 48-60 fixture and am having trouble with the remote. The light turns on when it is plugged in but the remote does not work. Anyone having problems with the remote?


----------



## VJM

Did you pull the plastic strip out of the remote? It is clear and pulls out easily.


----------



## otisinhotville

Pulled the strip. Put new battery in the remote. Current sent a new remote but it would not work either. 10 days ago Current said they would send a new light but haven't seen it yet. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.


----------



## londonloco

That sucks. I'd be on the phone with them tomorrow. I've bought 3 of these fixtures so far and haven't had any problems with them.


----------



## jeffkrol

otisinhotville said:


> Pulled the strip. Put new battery in the remote. Current sent a new remote but it would not work either. 10 days ago Current said they would send a new light but haven't seen it yet. Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem.


May or may not be related: I bought 5m of strip light w/ the (relatively) same type of controller and the IR LED (on the receiving end ) had a loose solder joint..


----------



## jpappy789

My remote/IR is a bit finicky. Doesn't seem to have the range others have and I need to really press down on the button to change the lighting. But I tend to just keep it on one setting for the plants right now, until the new timers come in that is...


----------



## KTern

I thought I was the only one having the problem. I replaced the battery, but the remote still don't work with the ir receiver. I left a message with them now waiting for a reply. I really love this light I hope it can be fix.




otisinhotville said:


> I purchased a 48-60 fixture and am having trouble with the remote. The light turns on when it is plugged in but the remote does not work. Anyone having problems with the remote?


----------



## jpappy789

Kevin, any ideas on why the remote/IR receiver would not be working? Seems that a few people are having issues.

I also noticed that mine changed when I used my TV remote! I'm not sure if it was a random coincidence or whether they are on the same wavelength, literally.


----------



## jeffkrol

jpappy789 said:


> Kevin, any ideas on why the remote/IR receiver would not be working? Seems that a few people are having issues.
> 
> I also noticed that mine changed when I used my TV remote! I'm not sure if it was a random coincidence or whether they are on the same wavelength, literally.


Pretty sure somewhere here a Current rep referred to the "new model" having a new frequency for the remote because of things like this.
Also:
Is the IR "receiver" LED dangling on the outside???


----------



## jpappy789

I have mine stuck to the side but at the very front and top.


----------



## jeffkrol

jpappy789 said:


> I have mine stuck to the side but at the very front and top.


Does it have like a WHITE rubbery shrink tube over the LED??
The reason I'm mentioning it (and don't really recommend fiddling w/ an "in warranty" product.) is because that was where the solder joint there are 3 wires soldered to the legs of a IR receiver LED. When I gently peeled mine back (because the unit was acting erratic, sometimes changing, sometimes not , stuck on some cycles then not ect) the loose leg "let go" .. 1 min solder job and it has been working ever since and no need to send it back to China..  ..(BUT this is NOT on a Current light.. but those controllers are all apparently clones.. w/ in the Current case, proprietary software in the controller)


----------



## jpappy789

I'd have to check, not sure I want to go fiddling with anything...and I've never soldered before.


----------



## jeffkrol

jpappy789 said:


> I'd have to check, not sure I want to go fiddling with anything...and I've never soldered before.


just send it in for repair/exchange then..best option..
If anything like the "other" controllers .. they are a bit finicky as to placement..


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## jpappy789

At this point, I'm not going to complain too much myself since I only use certain settings right now. I can get it to switch when I need to, just takes me being near the IR receiver than I thought.

I basically asked only because I was wondering if there was something I was overlooking in terms of the remote and/or receiver and others were having issues. 

Sorry to make it seem like a bigger deal


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## jeffkrol

jpappy789 said:


> At this point, I'm not going to complain too much myself since I only use certain settings right now. I can get it to switch when I need to, just takes me being near the IR receiver than I thought.
> 
> I basically asked only because I was wondering if there was something I was overlooking in terms of the remote and/or receiver and others were having issues.
> 
> Sorry to make it seem like a bigger deal


no big deal... What I posted might come in handy.. I know I spent hours troubleshooting the unit that was brand new.. (But it didn't come w/ a power supply so that was another variable..) changed power supplies, replaced batt in remote ect.. squeezed wires looking for shorts/breaks ect.. It was cheap enough not to really send it back ..
The IR sensor wire is a natural weak spot.. at least so it seems..


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## otisinhotville

Because the remote doesn't work there is no way to turn the light off and on because there is no off/on switch on the light. You have to unplug it or have it on a timer.


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## jpappy789

Well I somehow turned my fixture from the full spec to a storm setting using my TV remote again...


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## jeffkrol

jpappy789 said:


> Well I somehow turned my fixture from the full spec to a storm setting using my TV remote again...


That is funny.. (sort of) Current is aware they have a "problem" Is supposedly being fixed in next gen..


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## jpappy789

Yeah, if I wasn't setting up the tank now I would have waited and gone all out on the new fixture line. Bad luck in timing.

Hoping that some of this might be fixed when I get one of the timers so then I can just schedule everything and not have to worry about the remote.


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## Bradleyv1714

man... you guys are making me feel regret for huying the sat+ already... ughhhh


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## Bradleyv1714

I just called and canceled the order... This waiting game is killing me. Lol! I will just have to wait now...


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## somewhatshocked

Why would you regret it?

Tons of us have the fixtures and have no issues. If you have a problem, customer service will resolve it. 



Bradleyv1714 said:


> man... you guys are making me feel regret for huying the sat+ already... ughhhh


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## Bradleyv1714

Everyone is all hyped up about the next one and I know my gf will not be okay with me buying another light fixture so it's tough for me to decide on what to get and still is.


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## Brian_Cali77

somewhatshocked said:


> Why would you regret it?
> 
> Tons of us have the fixtures and have no issues. If you have a problem, customer service will resolve it.


+1

I have zero problems with the two Sat+ fixtures I have. It's a great product.


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## jpappy789

Don't let my panicking stop you from using the fixture...I can say that other than the minor remote/IR receiver glitches that I'm completely satisfied. Looks better than any other fixture I've used, and the rest is add-ons anyways.

I'd say the only big reason to wait is if you are looking to get their plant fixture when it launches.


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## KTern

like jpappy said I am happy with my fixture. I love it. customer service is taking care of my issue. I have nothing to regret with my light. It looks great on my planted 55g.


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## Bradleyv1714

I have been looking for a fixture to give me mid lighting or almost mid lighting. I currently have a double t8 shop light and just wanted to get something that will make my tank look nice, give me enough light but not too much that I will need to have co2 or dose fers. Gf won't allow it.


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## Current USA

jpappy789 said:


> Kevin, any ideas on why the remote/IR receiver would not be working? Seems that a few people are having issues.
> 
> I also noticed that mine changed when I used my TV remote! I'm not sure if it was a random coincidence or whether they are on the same wavelength, literally.


hey guys,

I just skimmed through the last couple pages so let me know if I missed something. 

These are made on a massive scale so a few are bound to have issues. The good news is, with any Current USA product, you have a 1 full year of warranty (usually 2 years+). just simply fill in the following form and we will send you a shipping label to send yours back while we send a brand new one your way! 

http://www.current-usa.com/support/warranty-support/warranty-service-form

As a side note, we provide very little phone support since all issues have to be taken care of over our website's support ticket system to ensure the best quality customer service. We usually respond 6 days/week and 2x/day making it a much better alternative than phone support.

Feel free to email me at [email protected] if you guys have any issues!


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## Current USA

somewhatshocked said:


> Why would you regret it?
> 
> Tons of us have the fixtures and have no issues. If you have a problem, customer service will resolve it.


You're right! We have the best customer service team here. Most warranties are taken care of within 24hrs. Meaning if you submitted a warranty request with all appropriate information, your replacement goes out the next day!

You guys are dealing with Current USA here. We stand behind our quality 100% and if there's anything wrong on our end, we'll make sure to fix it.


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## jpappy789

Just want to make sure before I fill anything out, do I need to send it back in the same box? Because I may have thrown that out...


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## Current USA

jpappy789 said:


> Just want to make sure before I fill anything out, do I need to send it back in the same box? Because I may have thrown that out...


Nope. Submit the form and we'll give you instructions :icon_bigg


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## Bradleyv1714

Placed my order again for the current sat+ from fosters and smith. Decided that I would get one of these since this was the unit that my gf liked so much that she let me buy it. If anything I'll buy one of the New ones when it comes out.


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## andyl9063

how do they do on a big tank like 72in wide and 30 high?


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## somewhatshocked

You'd be on the low end but could probably support things like Anubias, ferns and mosses.



andyl9063 said:


> how do they do on a big tank like 72in wide and 30 high?


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## Bradleyv1714

somewhatshocked said:


> You'd be on the low end but could probably support things like Anubias, ferns and mosses.


So if he would be in the low end at 30 inches deep. Would I be more towards mid if the light is about 18 -20 inches away from substrate?


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## Current USA

Bradleyv1714 said:


> So if he would be in the low end at 30 inches deep. Would I be more towards mid if the light is about 18 -20 inches away from substrate?


You would likely have ~30 micromoles of light at that height. Not sure what you guys would consider mid-light but with CO2, that can technically grow almost any plant that exists.


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## jpappy789

According to the PAR thread, 30 is about the cutoff between low and medium. But again...that's according to that thread.


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## Brian_Cali77

For all you Current Sat+ owners/lovers... whatever! 

Come JOIN the CLUB! 



http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?p=4162105#post4162105

Stop by and post pictures of your Sat+ on your tank, share your thoughts on it, and help me link to your journals! 

This 'discussions' thread is pretty old and from the first entry (by me) it's very reflective of that. So on with the new chapter... the Sat+ Club


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## otisinhotville

A follow up on the problem I was having with the remote. Current sent a new fixture and everything is working fine. It is on a 55 gallon tank and it seems to be putting out enough light for my low light plants. Like the different settings.


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## samwoo2go

Does anyone know what the height clearance with the bracket is on the LED+? I have exactly 2" of clearance from the top of the rimless and a shelf.

Also, is the only difference between the LED+ and LED is the addition of the RGB? Is there a difference in par if both on brightest setting?

I want to grow HC Cuba in a 12g long (9" substrate to light) with CO2, wondering which light to get.


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## londonloco

samwoo2go said:


> Does anyone know what the height clearance with the bracket is on the LED+? I have exactly 2" of clearance from the top of the rimless and a shelf.
> 
> Also, is the only difference between the LED+ and LED is the addition of the RGB? Is there a difference in par if both on brightest setting?
> 
> I want to grow HC Cuba in a 12g long (9" substrate to light) with CO2, wondering which light to get.


Clearance is less than an inch, you'll be fine. 

The BIG difference in the LED and LED+ is the + is dimmable, the LED is NOT. 

DEF go with the LED+


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## samwoo2go

londonloco said:


> Clearance is less than an inch, you'll be fine.
> 
> The BIG difference in the LED and LED+ is the + is dimmable, the LED is NOT.
> 
> DEF go with the LED+


less than an inch even with the bracket? Wow.

Do you think the LED+ at max par setting can support HC Cuba at 9"?


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## londonloco

Yes, less than an inch, very low profile.

I have no idea on the HC cuba, you might be interested in this:

http://www.guitarfish.org/2013/05/20/satellite-freshwater-led-review-part-1

and this:

http://www.guitarfish.org/2013/05/30/satellite-freshwater-led-review-part-2-par-readings

which gives you par value's.


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## somewhatshocked

Yeah, you'll be fine with HC at 9". Will need CO2 and EI dosing if you don't dim it, honestly.


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## samwoo2go

somewhatshocked said:


> Yeah, you'll be fine with HC at 9". Will need CO2 and EI dosing if you don't dim it, honestly.


Thanks! Already planning on both.


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## jaekwong

Does anyone know if the 'moonlight' mode or the dimmer programmed settings prevent photosynthesis from happening and also prevents algae from growing.

Essentially is having the blue 'moonlight' light equivalent to having it off?


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## plant.one

Current USA said:


> You're right! We have the best customer service team here. Most warranties are taken care of within 24hrs. Meaning if you submitted a warranty request with all appropriate information, your replacement goes out the next day!
> 
> You guys are dealing with Current USA here. We stand behind our quality 100% and if there's anything wrong on our end, we'll make sure to fix it.



as a former manager in a petshop i can vouch for this - current always did right by its products if there were warranty issues!


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## JEden8

This question may have been asked already so I apologize up front if it has.

I currently have the 48" version and have the lights on a timer. The only thing I don't like about the light is that there isn't a separate power cord for some moonlights. What is everyone doing for moonlights with this fixture?


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## Vermino

JEden8 said:


> This question may have been asked already so I apologize up front if it has.
> 
> I currently have the 48" version and have the lights on a timer. The only thing I don't like about the light is that there isn't a separate power cord for some moonlights. What is everyone doing for moonlights with this fixture?


I just use the remote right now (i have a dual light setup) so once the main light goes out, i'll just swap to moonlights with the remote. Current USA is coming out with a pro ramp timer that will be able to switch from settings for you in a given amount of time. total plug-n-play as well. 

there is a giveaway going on right now over here at: Current USA ramp timers - you should definitely look into entering on it


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## cowfish007

Any info on the specs/price for the "new" Current LED + plant light that's supposed to come out? I have a 75g tank and am trying to find a light that will give me the best PAR without creating a need for injected co2. (Looking for "moderate" lighting). A little info would help me to decide whether to buy two of the current model or wait for the new one.


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## Sierra255

cowfish007 said:


> Any info on the specs/price for the "new" Current LED + plant light that's supposed to come out? I have a 75g tank and am trying to find a light that will give me the best PAR without creating a need for injected co2. (Looking for "moderate" lighting). A little info would help me to decide whether to buy two of the current model or wait for the new one.


I haven't seen much info on it yet. I don't remember when it's supposed to be out, I thought by the end of the year, though. If I had to guess on price, I would think it would be around the same as the Marineland Plant LED since the Satellite LED+ and Double Bright lights are similarly priced.


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## JEden8

Vermino said:


> I just use the remote right now (i have a dual light setup) so once the main light goes out, i'll just swap to moonlights with the remote. Current USA is coming out with a pro ramp timer that will be able to switch from settings for you in a given amount of time. total plug-n-play as well.
> 
> there is a giveaway going on right now over here at: Current USA ramp timers - you should definitely look into entering on it


Thanks for the info Vermino!


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## JEden8

So I don't know if I'm one of the few that are running this fixture on a larger tank. Right now I'm running a single 48-60" Led+ over my 90 gallon tank. I knew that the light was not going to be as extreme as my 3xT5HO's but am really contemplating on purchasing a second unit as my glosso almost completely died off. (Which I expected to happen just not so quickly) So my question is with two of these lights over my 90 and the lights being no more than 24" from the substrate, will this be strong enough to grow glosso or other foreground carpeting plants?


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## Current USA

Hey guys! just an update, we've gotten your feedback and put together a light under Ecoxotic, our sister company. Check it out here! http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=470401


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