# InLine equipment with Fluvals



## concepts88 (Oct 4, 2012)

I have a 405 and i think it is the same. I replaced the hoses with clear tubing. 3/4 or 5/8 i forget and i have an atomizer running for 2 years. My friend has a 405 and he ran it for over 2 years. No issues. Using the clear tubing i was also able to put an ada lily pipe on my return


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## Cyanider (Mar 1, 2013)

I think all Fluval hookups use the 5/8 at the connector points. Their actual hoses are a bit smaller, but those rubber fittings at the ends are 5/8. I'd recommend just getting the clear tubing rather than buying more rubber fittings. 

And as long as the things you're attaching in-line are the proper size, I don't see the issue. I have a Hydor 200w heater and an inline atomizer attached to mine, and it's working just fine.


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## sarahspins (Sep 24, 2012)

Cyanider said:


> I have a Hydor 200w heater and an inline atomizer attached to mine, and it's working just fine.


Ditto, I haven't had any problems and personally I wouldn't worry about it. The response from Fluval seems like a typical CYA move. If they made any inline products I bet their answer would change.


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## AnotherHobby (Mar 5, 2012)

I have a cerges reactor on my 306 with 5/8" ID clear tubing. No issues.


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## Chris25 (May 14, 2013)

Thanks for all your experiences on this. I reckon you're right Sarah and they are just covering themselves.

I'm going to go ahead and setup an inline co2 atomizer and keep an eye on it. I'm sure it'll be fine! :icon_bigg

Thanks!
Chris


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## concepts88 (Oct 4, 2012)

I just wanted to add. Once you have it setup. It takes a while for the atomizer to open up. You also need super high pressure out of your co2. Once the pores open up , it will stabilize.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

What an obnoxious response by Fluval. Is there really any difference between adding some inline equipment, and running the filter with a slightly clogged filter pad? OK, maybe the inline equipment will be more likely to cause a leak in the connections on the output side, but that can be controlled.


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## manlyfan76 (Jun 20, 2013)

There is a slight difference. It has to do with backpressure. If you reduce the inlet side, that is to close the valve so that less water can get into the filter pressure will drop, maybe cavatate and possibly the impellor/motor could heat up. If you restrict the outlet line the pressure in the filter will increase as the motor is pumping and water cannot escape of outward pressure is increased on the walls of the filter/ piping. Would an atomiser do this, probably not. but if i put one on I would use a by pass with a two way valve to controll the flow through it.
check out LS6 Tommy's here:http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=163977&page=3
that's what id do when adding anything in-line.


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## creekbottom (Apr 5, 2012)

I've never gotten an answer from Fluval that wasn't meant to cover their butts!

I just hooked up a Fluval canister with 16/22 hose, fits great! I used the eheim hose instead of the clear vinyl stuff... less kinking and collapsing.


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## talontsiawd (Oct 19, 2008)

I have never had a Fluval canister but many people have used inline equipment and they make a quality filter, it wouldn't be any different from an Eheim or similar.

I don't know the answer to the tubing size but the response is actually quite reasonable from their end. Go to the factory dealership of the car you own and ask them for advice on an aftermarket supercharger or suspension setup. Quality parts work perfectly fine but they will tell you to only use their parts. They made the car for a certain purpose, they will never understand why you want to do something different. Just saying, they are just trying to have you leave it as is. If they told you how to do it and your filter fails, you have documented advice you could post all over the net.


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## ChadO (Apr 2, 2009)

So on this last Sunday night, I just hooked up a cerges reactor to my Fluval 404. I went with 5/8" ID / 7/8" OD braided vinyl tubing from Home Depot. I had to push with some decent force to get the tubing on the barb connectors, but it is working just great. For me, on the 404, that tubing was a perfect fit. It is thick enough that you won't need the plastic nut where it connects to the valve bracket. You could still use an "O" clamp if you want some extra safety.


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## Chris25 (May 14, 2013)

Well I went ahead and hooked it up. So far no leaks or any problems. Simply changed the outlet hose over to 16/22mm hose and that fits the 406 fine. The only minor thing I had was the new 16/22mm hose doesn't bend as easily over the tank without kinking so may look at that in the future, for now it has a nice easy bend into the tank. (Sticks out a bit from the side, but its not too bad)

I also have a fluval spray bar on my tank after the inline co2 diffuser and
thinking about their response saying that there could be a pressure build up, surely a spray bar could cause a pressure to build up and they obviously don't say not to use these?


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## gus6464 (Dec 19, 2011)

I have a 305 with a cerges reactor (3/4" hose connector) and a 206 with a DIY inline heater (1/2" hose connector) and replaced most of the ribbed tubing with clear vinyl. No issues with either. I want to replace the ribbed hose going to the aquastop though with clear vinyl but don't know what size to use.

If I had to do it all over again I would drill for bulkheads and connect the canisters straight to that. Will do that when I decide to upgrade tank.


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## Zimmanski (Sep 19, 2012)

I didn't have time to read through every comment(sorry) but I have a 406 with inline equipment too, for the bends around the tank I used the ribbed hose that came with it connected to the strainer/spray bar and used enough of it to make the bend around the tank and then connected the vinyl hose to it. No kinks, no reduction in flow and now I can use whatever 16/22 in line equipment I want


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