# Satellite + pro questions.



## dudedru (Jul 26, 2015)

I have one on a 10 gallon, along with co2, it's a bit of overkill for a small tank I know but it's kind of an experiment, with those 2 elements, my plants are out of control (I'm trying to figure out the best way to trim them all) however since I only have one Sat + Pro, some plants along the side are growing (leaning toward the middle to get more light), others that are in the sweet spot (well like I said, they are out of control) LOL.

Good Luck


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## Mike16T (Jun 13, 2016)

Depends on width (Front to back panel) of the the tank. How many gallons is tank? 

Me I do have a 24" wide tank also (15 gallons tank, 12 inches width and 12 inches tall) and it is plenty light. I had to extend up the fixture by 3 inches as it is so bright already that I found my self battling with algae (I dont have much algae anymore).

Bump: You can see how bright it is already with 3 inches extended up from the tank.


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## Rmier99 (Jun 28, 2016)

In the orbit marine pro manual, it shows different lens angles for different tanks. Meaning they guessed what tank each fixture would go on. However I don't know if that is the case with the Satellite + PRO. It mainly depends on the size of your tank, not just the width (height also plays a large role, especially with the lens angle and PAR). Can you give me some dimensions, I can see if I can help. I am considering buying 2 of the 36" fixtures for one of my 150 gallon setups. Hope I can help!


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Beautiful tank Mike. Rmier99 My tank is 8'x2'x2' 240g, right now it is sitting empty as i got to finish my stand (facade mostly) and so I am trying to do LED's, if i can afford them. I have the Finnex planted plus 24/7 and I love the day night cycle. and the SAT Plus Pro looks to be more inline what I am looking for, however for 4 of them I'm looking at $1100+, I just can't afford that. My thing is I don't care so much about the other functions of clouds and storms and all. I just like the automation of a 24 hr cycle. If i knew how to build my own and all with that function and it was cheaper i would. But I really do like the SAT + pro. It really comes down to Affordability, and being able to light most plants to all plants. this is why i am trying to figure out if 1 unit will be fine to cover front to back. vs 2 units.


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

@FuelingFire, I have an 18" front to back 75g tank and I am running 2 lights (SAT Plus Pro in the back, SAT Plus in the front). The single SAT Plus Pro just left too many dark areas near the front and back of the tank near the top. With your 24" front to back and (2) SAT PlusPro's you should get pretty even coverage. 
Also, for what its worth, Current sells reconditioned fixtures on Ebay for VERY reasonable prices. My SAT Plus is one of those lights and I was very impressed with the factory packaging that it came with. If i remember correctly, search Ebay for Current + refurbished.


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## Rmier99 (Jun 28, 2016)

FuelingFire said:


> If i knew how to build my own and all with that function and it was cheaper i would. But I really do like the SAT + pro.


Quite coincidentally, my coworker (I work in an acrylic workshop making tanks like the show tanked) just made an LED light for his 180 (6'x2'x28"). It took him a while and I watched him bring it in on his days off to use our tools. Unfortunately, he knows a lot about electrical, so his project was very complicated, but I think it can be recreated easily as long as we understand the basics.

He was in the same boat as you, he wanted 2 fixtures controlled by the same unit. 

he started with a controller (EX: the box on the SAT+PRO). This would allow him to program his RGB leds and adjust the levels. I am not sure if it has memory features as seen on the SAT, however I am sure you could find one that does. Used sections of aquarium stores may carry the unit, I suggest marine oriented controllers as they are usually more flexible. 

He then purchased 2 30" heat syncs. He mentioned something like heat sync USA or something along those lines. He paid by the inch. 

Individual LEDs as follows:
x6 10w 6500k
x40 2w RGB

x3 Thermal adhesive tubes

The workshop had all necessary tools and the like.

As for the rest, I am not sure because he finished it while I was on vacation. 

He told me it cost him about $400 for everything. If you look up diy led lights on youtube you can find multiple tutorials on this style. 

Buildmyled.com stopped unfortuntely, because I would have reccomended you look at their style lights.

Sincerely,
A fellow aquarist


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## Mike16T (Jun 13, 2016)

Hmmmm... nothing goes cheap once you go with that size of tank... If you dont have the budget for the current USA for an 8' tank, i suggest you can go for beamswork. Two 6' light should be enough.. over lap them to cover both ends of the tank. =)

Beamswork came a long a way from when they started making LED lights. If you dont mind about other perks from Finnex or current USA, beamswork is your next option. .

Check aquatraders.com check out their 3w/per bulb LED's. I forgot the name but they are high intesity LED. =)

Good luck and thanks for the compliment..


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

@Immortal; thats a good point about refurbished units, I didn't even think to look into those. 

@Rmier; I briefly was looking at Diy yesterday, I think it's something i could do. How ever the key is; will the Cost justify the means. Some Diy i saw yesterday cost more for less than you would get in a regular fixture. So I think it maybe something to really sit down and do the math and all to see if it will be feasible. Plus I don't know if i have all the tools to put one together. I'm a truck driver not a electrician Lol. But It really is something to think about.
@Mike; You are absolutely right about nothing being cheap for Large tanks. However I didn't buy this tank. It was a Gift from a family member. So that helped cut cost. But I have looked at Beamswork, But I Don't know if they have enough light, as far as par goes, I have read a lot of negative review when it come to tanks over 18". I would have to do more research on them.

I had also thought what I could do is Current makes a sat + Led strip, And I couldn't find out if it could be used with the ramp up timer pro. So i emailed them last night, to enquirer about it, Because my plan is if it can be used i can use 2 strip lights as my dawn, dusk and night cycle with the strip lights. and then just used what ever other type of light (i was thinking the sat +) as just standard daylights that are on a regular on/off timer. that way it would still give me what I want. 

The only other Option was I have been looking into T8 LED bulbs. they make Daylight bulbs but they are more than I care to admit. but it was an option. I know just to get the tank going I Might do T8's just so i can get it planted while i save enough to replace each unit with LED, but I really don't want to buy 4 T8 units for just a temp setup. (ugh the agony haha)


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## Mike16T (Jun 13, 2016)

@FuelingFire Are you actually planning on putting high demanding plants on that tank? If so, then you really need to look for a DIY light. 

Check this link

LED Group Buy


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## Rmier99 (Jun 28, 2016)

FuelingFire said:


> I had also thought what I could do is Current makes a sat + Led strip, And I couldn't find out if it could be used with the ramp up timer pro.


Be careful about the strip lights, they have 1/4 the PAR and were only designed for tanks under 18". Otherwise, I would look into these:

Aquarium Reef LED 30 Watt Flood Light 6500K Cool White High Quality Lighting | eBay

They are what I used for my growing ponds. They are incredibly powerful. 250 PAR at 12". If you have the option, I would hang them a foot or so above your tank. You can go to the wire section of Lowes or Home Depot, they sell a nice looking wire that can be used to hang them. 

If you want a good looking light, I would recommend using 4 of the 20w:

Aquarium Reef LED 20 Watt Flood Light 6500K Cool White High Quality Lighting | eBay

Run in conjunction with a beamswork cichlid light (Good for viewing fish):

https://goo.gl/5u4ucq

There are hanging kits for the floodlights, but they are waste unless you have a ridiculously tall ceiling.

Put the beamswork light at the front of the tank, so when the fish swim by, their fins look nice. The hanging lights can stay in the back for your plants. 

Bear in mind, you will have to make sure your floodlights are on for NO MORE THAN 5 HOURS A DAY. They will cause a massive algae bloom. However when you get the timing right, you will be able to grow a baby tears carpet with ease (Usually Very difficult in a tank that size)

Good luck on your tank, these floodlights are by far the cheapest and most powerful route if you are looking to grow plants.


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Wow thanks for that link. I am not sure if i want to go Co2 This will be a Dirt tank (as all my tanks are) But I have never really ventured into the realm of Co2, I Do think about it from time to time. But all I can tell you is It is nice to have options for the future. I just don't know if i want to go that route right now. I always say no. but then i start thinking well maybe i might like this setup or this plant and I get to thinking about Co2 and high tech. but I really like to stay in the Medium range. I might make my 75 a high tech as an experiment.

Bump: @Rmier I would only use the Strip lights as the dawn and dusk and night feature. they have no job of plant growth. they be just for the evening and night. and I honestly have a tall ceiling so i can space the lights high if i have to. But they seem like a good option.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

FuelingFire said:


> however for 4 of them I'm looking at $1100+, I just can't afford that. My thing is I don't care so much about the other functions of clouds and storms and all. I just like the automation of a 24 hr cycle. If i knew how to build my own and all with that function and it was cheaper i would. But I really do like the SAT + pro. It really comes down to Affordability, and being able to light most plants to all plants. this is why i am trying to figure out if 1 unit will be fine to cover front to back. vs 2 units.


look into DSunY. Short of DIY this is about the cheapest and functional light for a tank that size..
FW-c6-4 
[email protected] panels 288W total but more like 1/2 that due to lower drive currents
A bit of a squeeze for 24" wide tank.. but w/ shipping and WIFI 4 channel controler.. "only" $570.. China direct.
not as cheap as the floods though..
sample data:


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Jeffkrol: that is a good deal but Looking at their site to me is a little confusing, I mean I saw the lights your talking about (i think) but it is confusing trying to understand how they have things listed. Maybe its just my lack of understanding. lol. 

Rmier99; Just thought of some questions about the spot lights. I will be building a canopy over my tank, I can make it any height. but will the Spot lights create shadows, in the upper area's? Also I will be running a constant drip water change system along with a daily water change dump style. so roughly 10-20g daily will be changed in the tank, won't that help combat the algae, also i will be runny a low flow sump, Most of my current in the tank will be on power heads and wave makers. because of the length of the tank. So forgive my ignorance in algae control as I am hoping this system will help combat algae. I really don't know as i have only read that it can. No exp.. with it. and it isn't really why i am running such a system. But I am wondering if the system will help control the algae that the lights would give off? (I hope I ain't confused anyone)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

FuelingFire said:


> Jeffkrol: that is a good deal but Looking at their site to me is a little confusing, I mean I saw the lights your talking about (i think) but it is confusing trying to understand how they have things listed. Maybe its just my lack of understanding. lol.


no, many things get "lost in translation".. The eek bay listing uses a menu type system.
water type (freshwater)
panel size (54cm = 21.25)
number of panels (4 so 85 panel inches )
controller type (standard or wifi)

131402369518

For 24" wide tanks you may do the "contact them" thing as I suspect tey will suggest different optics..
Heck you can do a custom spectrum if you so choose..


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Jeffkrol; Ok so after reviewing the Lights. I can say I do like them. How ever My lack of understanding anything about Led even after I research it a lot still makes me wonder if it has enough red. I guess the biggest thing for me is it's ability to grow plants and have a nice color temp and still have a good sunrise and sunset. (i like the dawn dusk setting because it doesn't freak the fish out, with lights just popping on) Also has to be able to be affordable and they certainly are in my budget. But will the tank width be a problem.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

FuelingFire said:


> Jeffkrol; Ok so after reviewing the Lights. I can say I do like them. How ever My lack of understanding anything about Led even after I research it a lot still makes me wonder if it has enough red. I guess the biggest thing for me is it's ability to grow plants and have a nice color temp and still have a good sunrise and sunset. (i like the dawn dusk setting because it doesn't freak the fish out, with lights just popping on) Also has to be able to be affordable and they certainly are in my budget. But will the tank width be a problem.


DSunY states it is fine up to 18" width. As I said I'm pretty sure they will swap out included lenses for a more wide angle..or one can just hang it higher for wider coverage..
Each will cut the PAR at depth but depending on ones goals, shouldn't be too bad..


PAR map (saltwater version but fw will be similar)









https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/DSunY-96-cheap-full-spectrum-programmable_1864158224.html

sorry haven't looked at their PAR map in awhile..

Actually you should have plenty of PAR to raise it a bit higher than "standard"...


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

And you know another thing is most of the plants I do intend to have will be Swords, crypts, and other low light not demanding plants. Things that don't require High light. Anything I do that might require high light I can always add a Cfl Over top of it. But Mostly I Don't want to do Hair grass or anything co2 related. Also most of my plants will be near the back anyway. I'll probably do chain sword and crypts near the front. and they pretty much grow in low light anyway.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

FuelingFire said:


> And you know another thing is most of the plants I do intend to have will be Swords, crypts, and other low light not demanding plants. Things that don't require High light. Anything I do that might require high light I can always add a Cfl Over top of it. But Mostly I Don't want to do Hair grass or anything co2 related. Also most of my plants will be near the back anyway. I'll probably do chain sword and crypts near the front. and they pretty much grow in low light anyway.


Well the DSunY is currently the cheapest full feature LED I know of..
Ther are some other brands like Orphek that do some nice lights but pricy..
If you want to have some fun learning about light bit , play w/ this calculator..
SPECTRA
Just make sure Setup/graph/ is set to fresh..
Pick diodes and add them creating spectrums where you can see CRI, K value and how it hits various plant pigment maximum absorption peaks..

BTW pretty sure I can make it better (Well tell Dsuny what to change) but you may lose a few things like "moonlight" blue.
Hint:
Change out all the blues and put the 12000k's there .
Make channel 3 4000k or even lower (to get really fancy.. add 2 660's in place of 2 4000's .
IF they can change green for cyan (they may not be available)

They usually freak out when you tell them to add such warm whites though (cultural thing)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jeffkrol said:


> Well the DSunY is currently the cheapest full feature LED I know of..
> Ther are some other brands like Orphek that do some nice lights but pricy..
> If you want to have some fun learning about light bit , play w/ this calculator..
> SPECTRA
> ...


Addendum:
Did a rough estimate of what the changes above would do.. Sorry no "before" image.. but an after..


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Well I'm going to have to have the moonlights, The tanks in the living room and its got to be visible at night While people are up, with out running the day lights on for longer then needed. Also I saw a graph some where I don't remember what site. But it said that a 60° lens at 1 foot above the tank on a 2 foot wide tank was better then a 120° lens. I could be wrong but I am just wondering, wouldn't it help with the light penetration. Reason I ask is the chart states 120° beam, and I'm not sure what the actual fixture beam was.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

First, you will have "moonlight" but it will be by dimming 10000K white chips not blue..that can be changed a bit..

Lensing does improve depth penetration but one needs to balance that with surface spread..and yes they do 120's as stock.. I forgot..
so putting the light over the water line @ 6" should cover the f/b part.
Issue would be your new effective depth of 6 + (light to surface) and intensity decrease due to this.


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Well i don't think it will matter to much about the Lens if i have a background on the back it should help reflect some of it back into the tank. at least the backside part even if it is black background it would reflect some.. At least in theory


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

no, lenses won't matter "that" much. Once the light is refracting/relecting inside the tank/water you're good.. 
Anyways you never answered if a "white" moonlight (very dimmed to I believe 10% is the lowest)
If you can use 6500k as moonlight.. here is a new pattern.
Ignore PAR data since it is based on these generic 1W emitters..


> * MIXING LIST
> ----------------------------------------
> Edison Edixeon-S Cyan (490-510nm) [120°] x2
> Edison Edixeon-A CoolWhite (5000-10000K) [120°] x6
> ...


Change 6500K w/ 4000k (ch1,4)
Change green to cyan (ch1,4)
Change blue to 6500k (ch2 )

Adding 3 410 "violets" for 3 of the 6500k (ch 2)
gives you a "perfect" pigment score of 100
Only drops CRI to 92
Color temp is 5620...

Purple/white moonlight..

BTW: Since I do not know exactly how their programming goes..ther may be unintended consquences w/ some of the "special effects"
Like if they were smart the "lightning" would be on the 12000k channel.. but no guarantees.
All mods were done w/ this in mind, to keep w/ logic.. (funny huh)

emulating diodes to be 2W gives me 88PAR at 12".......Should be a good approx. of real world w/ that fixture..


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## Rmier99 (Jun 28, 2016)

FuelingFire said:


> Rmier99; Just thought of some questions about the spot lights. I will be building a canopy over my tank, I can make it any height. but will the Spot lights create shadows, in the upper area's? Also I will be running a constant drip water change system along with a daily water change dump style. so roughly 10-20g daily will be changed in the tank, won't that help combat the algae, also i will be runny a low flow sump, Most of my current in the tank will be on power heads and wave makers. because of the length of the tank. So forgive my ignorance in algae control as I am hoping this system will help combat algae. I really don't know as i have only read that it can. No exp.. with it. and it isn't really why i am running such a system. But I am wondering if the system will help control the algae that the lights would give off? (I hope I ain't confused anyone)


I will start by saying drip systems are absolutely the way to go, I use them on all of my tanks.
I hate carrying buckets.

The lights will create some shadows, as will most options for a tank with that height. IF you run another beamswork light, this will help get rid of those shadows while making your fish look really good. 

As for the algae control:
Yes a high flow system will help stop certain types of algae from settling. Hoever many types of algae completely disregard high flow (EX: red and brown algae) 

If you want to prevent algae, while keeping your plants health, I would look into an algae scrubber.

Here is a DIY video on an Algae Scrubber:
https://goo.gl/DR0k4I

My foolproof method is plecos, snails ,and more plecos. I have a total of 4 plecos in my 150. They do a good job of cleaning the glass on the bottom half of the tank, but generally avoid the top half because of the light and the fact that their pellets are on the ground. (All of the plecos' max size is 6", before people bombard me)

Snails are another method I personally like. 
BEST SNAILS:
Ramshorn (Reproduce very fast)
Pond Snails (Not trapdoor, the small kind)
Mystery Snails

AVOID:
Nerite
Trapdoor
Apple
Assassin
Malaysian (Absolute infestation and barely eat algae)

I personally have over 50 ramshorn snails in my 150 with 5 mystery snails. The ramshorn clean the glass, while the mystery snails eat dead plants. Together, I can trust that my tank will be algae free! :grin2:


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Rmier99; It's funny you mentioned an ATS I was thinking about building a very small one just for Algae control. I know a lot about those systems and was going to do one if i went saltwater. but To many people talked me out of it and I couldn't afford Saltwater if i had to get a protein skimmer and all that hype they make. I actually worked at a sewer plant on the Chesapeake bay when i was younger and they were building one Next door to help clean the bay. So yea i know a lot about those. but honestly For planted tanks I figured it be to much Co2 loss unless i did a tiny one that would just be for algae control. But I also think that they would be good in dirted tanks to help with Excessive nutrients.

As far as the lights go I like the Idea of the Spot lights but here is my Problem as of now. Cost! I do plan on going with the Dsuny System but it will not be until winter I'm guessing. I'm just a poor Truck Driver who is Disabled Now So funds Are limited. So i am going to have to go with a cheaper Option Just to get going. If I did the flood lights they would cost the same as t8 roughly but if I add the Beamswork then I might as well go with t5's I think for now I just want something To get the plants going that has a good color temp and makes the plants and fish Pop. (like saltwater tanks pop) and I can use my Finnex 24/7 in the center for a 24/7 cycle. remind you this is just to get the plants going for 6 months to a year. till i can get the other lights. so if i did the spot lights what would be good for nice color effect. also I really couldnt get much info on those Spot lights when I was researching them. Is their a Link besides Ebay that I can check out. 

As far as Snails go... Ugh I hate snails. Well some snails. I have MTS in my tanks. as I use them only to keep my play sand stired they actually do a lot of the grunt work under the sand. but when its feeding time i hardly ever see sand just shells. lol they are constantly multiplying. I hate Bladder snails I have those in my tank and Wish I could get rid of them, But I don't want My MTS snails to become extinct in my tank because i have a fish that eats them. so it's a trade off at moment.. In my new system this 240 I plan on not putting anything in my tank from my bladder snail infested tanks. I do have 1 assassin Snail but I barely see him. It seams all the snails I like are on your avoid List and all the snails I hate are on you good list. hahaha that's funny. I was always told that Ramshorn's and Mysterys eat plants I have always read that and always heard to keep them out of planted tanks. I don't know Maybe I should reevaluate my snails again.

I do love my Pleco Hardly ever see him But it does't touch algae, or algae wafers. He only eats Driftwood. And he is just a common bristlenose. (i say common as he is just a standard 5 Inch pleco, not meaning the Common Pleco which is way to big for my tank) But my Farwolla Loves algae and eats it like crazy in my 75.

Bump: @jeffkrol; Actually Jeff I don't care what color the moon lights are. That isn't my concern as long as it dim enough to see inside but letting the fish rest. And Like i said before The storm settings and all that I could care less. I just want the color temp to be Nice and the plants to thrive. and to have a dimming setting to ease the fish from being light shocked. What you proposed Actually seems fair Like i said above it be winter Before i can get those lights. But I am going to get them. Even if i have to sell my 75 I am getting them lol. But Another thing is with that setting could you kinda give me an example of what it would look like at full bright, (i know I'm asking a lot. I am a hands on visual learner than a book learner sorry)


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

> Bump: @jeffkrol; Actually Jeff I don't care what color the moon lights are. That isn't my concern as long as it dim enough to see inside but letting the fish rest. And Like i said before The storm settings and all that I could care less. I just want the color temp to be Nice and the plants to thrive. and to have a dimming setting to ease the fish from being light shocked. What you proposed Actually seems fair Like i said above it be winter Before i can get those lights.


sounds like a plan. will post the panel config. a bit later..
If you can live w/ a little warmer color but good color pop.. Check out some of the 4ft LED shop lights. They can be cheaper (well more like close) than t8's currently if found on a good sale.. 
Good thing is you may find them quite resueable in other places.. Our local "Menards" had (w/ rebates which are basically in store credit) them on sale for $26 4000K 3000 lumens.. Bit underpowered for a large tank but should keep stuff alive quite well w/ long photoperiods..
Lights of America 4-foot LED Shoplight - Sam's Club
Used one like this on th 55 to get it started.. Grew Algae GREAT!!. 
now it is lighting up the laundry room..

still it is $70/pr..

Only snails I had luck w/ are Olive Nerites..but eggs ..
For me they go in cycles so some months a lot (usually just at teh beginning) then some months few to zero..
They bother a lot of people but not me in particular.. Best darn algae janitors you can have AFAIMC.. 

4 brooders and 4 twists..
http://www.walmart.com/ip/14003468?...38694392&wl4=&wl5=pla&wl6=61842628553&veh=sem

OK here it is:


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

OK one last cheap option if you scavenge.
4' T8 replacement tubes.. no working ballast needed so all you need is the "tombstones"...
https://www.earthled.com/collection...llast-bypass-dlc-qualified?variant=4099400900

so if you can find junk 4ft x 2 t8's somewhere $44 plus shipping.. Best I can come up with.........


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

It's funny I actually have two 4' t8 Fixtures in my garage with no ballast that i replaced from my kitchen. So this is what I am thinking. to get started I may do the spot lights with maybe just plain t8 bulbs or t8 Leds they both be about same price. I'm not worried about Led to get started as they be just a temp solution anyway. And then once I get some money saved this winter I will be getting the other lights.


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## HBdirtbag (Jun 15, 2015)

I run 2 - 48" sat + pro's on my tank. One just didn't have enough spread. It's an ADA 120P so 48x18x18

i run about 75% intensity on btoh of them.


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## FuelingFire (Nov 8, 2012)

Just and update. I ended up getting some T8 shop lights, to get started, and think I am going to run my finnex 24/7 in the center of my tank just for the 24/7 cycle. and will be getting LEd very soon I hope.


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