# DIY C02 Article



## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I want to add that if you drill the hole smaller than the tubing that you don't have to use the sealant. I have made at least two dozen DIY bottles over the years and have never had to seal a single one. And I do the same with my DIY bubble counters. 

Also the use of juice bottles is much better than soda bottles as juice bottles are less likely to fall over. And if you can get beer or wine yeast it's much better for long term production of CO2 than bread yeast is. I also use the jello method and a 2 liter bottle will produce CO2 for around 4 weeks.


----------



## 29gallonsteve (Oct 4, 2002)

For 5 dollars, you can order these from your local Hobbytown.com

http://www.hobbiesr.com/for/for-129/143.htm

There are two different sets...Red/Green are too small...Blue/Yellow are what you want.

No more silicone sealant leaks or drilling problems.

Thanks,
Steve


----------



## Guttboy (Jul 19, 2003)

29gallonsteve,

I have to disagree with the use of those bulkhead fittings....they are VERY brittle and can snap easily...Trust me I went through 6 before using Rex's Idea.

Rex,

I have been using your idea without the sealant for a couple weeks now and it works GREAT! I would have never thought of that til you mentioned it! Thanks again HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Mike


----------



## metallhd (Aug 23, 2003)

Well now I just have to try this no sealant thing - might I add that the addition of another smaller chamber on the side of the main bottle is useful because I have found airstones and hoses clog up with yeast **** - the second bottle ensures nothing but gas goes into the tank.

Thanks for the idea, will complain vocally if it doesn't work . . . :lol:


----------



## Guttboy (Jul 19, 2003)

Metallhd,

I have another bottle on the side...just a small little water bottle that I use for a bubble counter/trap. I also do not use airstones (recommendations here) Unless you are using an airstone as the sole source of disolving the co2 I find it just an area for problems.

Mike


----------



## depthC (Oct 9, 2003)

Ive noted in my article that you could use airstones but it is a very poor method so id recommend otherwise. As for the C02 seperation unit i used a 20oz bottle and ran the line from the C02 bottle down a few inches and the tube to the tank high in the bottle. Ive had no results at all with this and the residue still collected in the tank. I didnt use water in the unit so maybe thats the problem, any ideas why it didnt work? Since then i havent used the seperator unit because it hasnt worked the way i set it up. 

- depthC


----------



## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I have found using the standard silicone tubing that a 11/64th hole works great. You then cut the tubing at an angle and pull it though the hole. This method has sealed gas tight every time for me. In fact I used the same method to run the CO2 lines into my DIY external reactors.


----------



## aquaverde (Apr 15, 2003)

I'm going to try this with some HDPE next week and see how it works.

James


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

With the blue CO2-proof tubing this hasn't worked for me. It is probably too soft. Thank goodness there are many way to leakproof bottlecaps :lol:


----------



## aquaverde (Apr 15, 2003)

HDPE is pretty stiff, available at the BORG or Lowe's. I think it's the best available for resisting through-wall type leakage with CO2. I expect it to work pretty well with the Rex interference-fit method, for the same reason the blue stuff would not.

Anyway, will see.

James


----------



## metallhd (Aug 23, 2003)

I can corroborate the 11/64 bit size, I have also been using the flexible blue line and have had very limited success with silicone, hence my eagerness to try no sealant. I have also had limited success with the second chamber my previous post regardless - I have had the best success with going straight from yeast to tank and with no airstone.

I got some of the more rigid clear tubing at Big Al's today, will keep you posted as to its' effectiveness


----------



## anonapersona (Oct 19, 2002)

depthC said:


> Ive noted in my article that you could use airstones but it is a very poor method so id recommend otherwise. As for the C02 seperation unit i used a 20oz bottle and ran the line from the C02 bottle down a few inches and the tube to the tank high in the bottle. Ive had no results at all with this and the residue still collected in the tank. I didnt use water in the unit so maybe thats the problem, any ideas why it didnt work? Since then i havent used the seperator unit because it hasnt worked the way i set it up.
> 
> - depthC


There should be water in that separator, the input line is below the water, the output line is above.

You will collect something in the water, it is smelly after a few weeks. It will eliminate the slime on the gas line in the tank.


----------



## metallhd (Aug 23, 2003)

I set up a new bottle from scratch yesterday, with the clear tubing I got from Big Al's - first things first 11/64 was TOO SMALL - the narrow opening pinched the hose, it was just a little too small - fortunately my drill bits are in 1/64th-inch increments, so I went up one to a 3/16 and used needle nose pliers to pull the hose through - it's tight. I have a 2 litre bottle and a 355 ml (that's 10 oz, USA) chamber bottle taped to the side - picture a hose out of the 2 litre into the small and then another coming out the small again that goes to the tank - the smaller bottle gets *ALL* the residue because it just drips out of the hose, and accumulates in the bottom, leaving only the gas to escape. It's working very well, I have a stready stream of tiny bubbles from the airstone, which I expect to remain completely clean. 

The one addition I would suggest that I have not seen is a check valve - they're cheap, and you can put the bottle wherever you want then - it also seems to me that at some point there will be sufficient pressure to either a) make the bottle/lid fail (in which case it was no good anyway) or b) force the hose column back. I tell ya they're indispensible - just watch one pump short out and suddenly they seem very cheap, kinda like insurance :? 

I have a question for the more experienced, though - assuming the hole is so tight that the hose needs to be pulled through, are there any suggestions as to how to open and close the bottle when changing yeast? :roll: I have been twisting it enough one way that when I screw it back on it comes out smooth, necessity being the mother of invention - is there a better way?


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

metallhd said:


> I have a question for the more experienced, though - assuming the hole is so tight that the hose needs to be pulled through, are there any suggestions as to how to open and close the bottle when changing yeast? :roll: I have been twisting it enough one way that when I screw it back on it comes out smooth, necessity being the mother of invention - is there a better way?


Turn the bottle? :lol: :lol: :lol: That is what I do :wink: 

Check valve is a good idea... but also whenever I disconnect a bottle to set up new mix I squeeze the hose shut with one of those black metal springy things, that are used to clip a bunch of paper sheets together, not sure what the official name is :roll:


----------



## Guttboy (Jul 19, 2003)

Metalhead!

Sounds like you have just about the same setup as I do. I do put water in the second bottle to have a DIY bubble counter/crap accumulator :lol: .

As for making up a new batch I do just as wasserpest suggests...turn the bottle and leave the tubing intact!

I also have a check valve that is just prior to the tubing entering the tank. This prevents any chance of water backflowing into my setup and going everywhere.

Why are you using an airstone? is it because you are not using a reactor or something?

Mike


----------



## metallhd (Aug 23, 2003)

Thanks guttboy and wasserpest! 

Actually I am using a airstone for a fairly simple reason - my reactor is another little pop bottle with the top cut off, it's upside down in the tank acting like a bell for the CO2, the airstone is to prevent the hose from slipping out the hole where the hose goes in - like I said, necessity is the mother of invention. 

The small tank doesn't look like an Amano tank (yet), but let's try the CO2 for a while and see what it does, I'm pretty impressed so far - got some hygro on Saturday and it's not only growing like a weed but already turning colour a bit, some nice reddy bits, my cabomba has also taken off and the crypt in that tank is looking quite healthy, so I guess I'm doing something right even if it is only a gravel substrate. I am running a modified stock canopy with the guts ripped out to accommodate two spiral fluorescents of 13 watts each, giving about 2.6 wpg, nice and bright, much more so than the big one but that has blackwater and three strip fluorescents totalling about 70 watts - I'm getting a new bulb this wknd that should take it up to almost 90 though - this is over a 33. I like the 'power bars' that you hang typically under a cupboard cabinet - 20 bucks Cdn each, BUILT IN BALLAST and very convenient to install in my DIY canopy - the whole unit just slides into wooden guides - I have two of those in addition to the once-again modified stock canopy.

It is a relatively new tank (about a month) but I have found the mix of Bio-Max and Cycle cycle the tank very nicely, and I use liquid fertilizer right now, at least until the biomass index increases a little with some leavings from the new occupants, one of which expired during the night  - no outward signs of trouble and everyone else is fine. I just hate to lose them no matter how small, but out of about 20 plants and 30 fish in the last little bit I've lost one fish still under warranty and an unidentified plant ( a sword with bulbously rounded leaves, relatively small - that one went in and went brown in 2 days flat, no sympathy from the lfs - "they need iron"). Thanks. For a dead plant and the opportunity to waste my money here - want more? Pplllbbbtttt.

I'm still relatively new to this and sorta feeling my way - I must say though that the help I have been able to glean from this site is just phenomenal, and I sincerely appreciate the efforts of all involved to make this a better cyber-place.

I guess I'm going to have to stick the turning the bottle (OK, I had to ask  ) - don't ask don't get though . . . I am going to try the water in the second chamber too - I have heard of some people using glycerine but I can't see any immediate advantage to that, but am open to suggestion. Thanks again - boy, this is a gas . . . . :roll: Sorry for the long post, I don't get out much.


----------



## Guttboy (Jul 19, 2003)

Metalhd....

Glad we could be of help! I too am a newbie in the planted tank realm but I am learning fast and passing on information when able. Like I said before kept marine reefs for 15 years or so and now doing the planted thing.

Update....my endler's have had 20 babies over the past week and the fry are doing well living off of the finely ground up flake food and an occassional BBS input.

Lost 2 endlers moms though....not sure if due to stress of babies or what....water parameters are "same as it ever was" and they all seem fine.

Looking to put some in my 15G hospital tank (hmmm might just be another endler tank) and some in my 100 Gallon tank!

After that who knows.

Mike


----------



## aeternum23 (Sep 17, 2003)

Could you guys perhaps post pics of your setups? Also, I've read some instances where the production bottle has imploded. I always figured that the bottle would explode due to the production of CO2. Any idea on how it would implode?


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

As described in the other post... if the airline is positioned to closely to the impeller of the pump or in the area where water is sucked into the inlet, it might pull the CO2 out of your bottle, collapsing ("imploding"?) it and drawing the yummie mixture into the tank. Not good.


----------



## aeternum23 (Sep 17, 2003)

Hehe, thanks again Wasser


----------



## metallhd (Aug 23, 2003)

aeternum23 said:


> Could you guys perhaps post pics of your setups?


Sorry, I have no pics, if I had a digicam I'd post nothing but snaps of all my purty tetras anyway, be warned <56K Xmas is coming. :lol: 

Re imploding juice bottles are more structurally sound than pop - just leave some juice out a day or so to discover their sealing efficiency.

I have a 2-litre pop bottle with a 500 ml bottle strapped to the side of it with duct tape. The big bottle has the yeast mixture maybe 75% full, the smaller bottle has dechlorinated water maybe 75% full also. I drilled a 3/16" hole in the big bottlecap and two in the smaller bottlecap, cut the ends of the tubing on a bias to make them easier to pull through with needlenose pliers. Airline tubing maybe 8" long goes from just inside the cap on the big bottle to well down in the small bottle (instant bubble counter), another tube cut to required length and from just inside the 2nd hole on the small bottle is the output. On my little tank I have a similar deal with 2 500 ml bottles. Out of the yeast gas, into the water, out of the cleaned of yeast-**** gas into the tank, capiche?

On both tanks the output goes to an upside-down 500 ml pop bottle with the top cut off and a hole drilled near the top to accommodate the incoming CO2 hose, an airstone holds the tubing in place. If there is too much CO2 going in the setup the little bottles in the tank will *burp* that gas lost of course but ergo harmless - drawback to having no regulator of course. For my big tank I hope to construct a reactor similar to the one Buck describes in the DIY section this weekend. I had the output going to a little Aquaclear but took it off as was unconvinced of its' effectiveness per previous . . . 

total kudos to depthc for starting this thread, tho - most excellent instrux, dude!

hope this helps from a greenhorn aquatic greenthumb, just fumbling along meself, one epiphany at a time . . .


----------



## Pockafwye (Nov 19, 2003)

This is the first time I've seen someone online address the issue of the goop that accumulates from the CO2. Thank you for your ideas on how to deal with this. 

I've used DIY CO2 for a couple of years, and have almost given it up a couple of times due to the icky goop accumulating in my filter.


----------



## malkore (Nov 3, 2003)

I used a short piece of the narrowest rigid tubing I could get, to run through the bottle caps. This way you can slide the airline onto it (a tight fit) and if you need to replace the airline due to damage, or needing a longer/shorter length, it's easy.

also, a poor man's airtight seal can be made with fun tack (that blue/yellow sticky stuff for posters)...and its' reusable and not permanent.


----------



## Rabbit (Nov 14, 2003)

If I may, www.qsl.net/w2wdx/aquaria/diyco2.html

brilliant layout (although perhaps a tad more high tech than I personally go).


----------



## Not Mister Green (Feb 15, 2005)

*most excellent article rabbit....*

the article states:

"Carbon dioxide rich groundwater often feeds the streams and natural CO2 concentrations up to several hundred times atmospheric equilibrium are common"

and

"At low light and low CO2 there is not much energy to play around with for up or down-regulation of the pools of Chlorophyll or enzymes contained in the plant. If we then add a little more CO2 to the system the plant can afford to invest less energy and resources in CO2 uptake and that leaves more energy for optimizing the light utilization - Chlorophyll can be produced without fatal consequences for the energy. Hence, although we have not raised the light, the plant can now utilize the available light more efficiently. Exactly the same explanation can be used to explain why increased light can stimulate growth even at very low CO2 concentrations. With more light available, less investment in the light utilization system is necessary and the free energy can be invested into a more efficient CO2 uptake system so that the CO2, which is present in the water, can be more efficiently extracted"

Fascinating. 

Anywhose, no doubt this info is old hat to many on this site but for newbies like me this article is a must read!

I'm getting lined out for a DIY C02 with gallon jugs of wine and Mr. LeVasseur's superb article answered many of my questions. 

Thanks for sharing! :icon_bigg


----------



## sarahbobarah (May 20, 2005)

I use test tube stoppers with predrilled holes. No muss, no fuss, no turning, and completely leak proof.


----------



## Not Mister Green (Feb 15, 2005)

*thanks for the tip sarahbobarah...*

its super to hear about these great ideas before starting to buy equipment - I'm going with the test tube stoppers.

BTW, has anyone used fermenting jugs of wine as a DIY CO2 source? I'm definetly going to need to install a gas separator.


----------



## punkboybob (Sep 8, 2005)

*Using CO2 with Koi*

My 10gal tank currently houses Koi fry, It has a small amount of plants but they are looking bad. Could CO2 help? Will it hurt the fry (they are usually more sensitive than adults. What's a simple way to check the CO2.


----------



## FobbyBobby (Mar 7, 2004)

Co2 always helps
but you may need to upgrade your lighting, depends on the kinds of plants

i dont think the fry would have any problem with the addition of Co2, as long as you dont overdo it and create some huge pH fluctuations or anything


----------



## D.gilly (Sep 25, 2005)

ive been told to turn off my co2 at night , what do all of you do with that?


----------



## willie (Nov 22, 2005)

guys i am new to this DIY co2 system, may i know how long it takes for it to react (start producing co2 bubbles)????? 

and how do u mix the sugar with the yeast?? ratio??? also the water, how much should i put???

thanks,
willie


----------



## desjardo (Nov 19, 2008)

I've been told it will spike less if you let it be overnight. I am currently just using an airstone as I havent decided on another method and have $0 in my budget. I am considering the hose in the bottom of my HOB. NOt sure how effective it would be.


----------



## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

Welcome to the Planted Tank, and congrats on resurrecting a 3 year old thread :thumbsup:

Feeding CO2 bubbles into the HOB filter should be a bit more efficient than the airstone method. I have been bubbling CO2 into a AquaClear HOB for many years to enrich my 10gal tank.


----------

