# Algae problem in heavy planted tank



## tamsin (Jan 12, 2011)

Have you tried reducing your light? Either dimming it, shorter photo period or adding a shade eg floating plants to reduce it.


----------



## djt5278 (Feb 28, 2015)

I used to have the light on all day with direct sunlight, moved the tank (not fun) out of direct sunlight and only have the light on for 8 hours now. tried a black out for a few days and the algae came right back.


----------



## djt5278 (Feb 28, 2015)

Also I meant to say couldn't find it anywhere else in the first post, but my phone won't let me edit it sorry!


----------



## James M (Jun 21, 2012)

Fast growing, hungry floaters like water lettuce and duckweed.
Harvest/remove as necessary. That's your excess nutrient export.
Pretty simple.


----------



## walzon1 (Jan 28, 2014)

you didn't mention what kind of lighting you have. when you dose co2 supplements you must also dose nitrate, phosphate and potassium because your plants need the extra. Zero Nitrate in a heavily planted tank is bad. Either stop dosing the co2 supplements or get a full dosing pack. I would do a 50 percent water change every time I clean the algae out of the tank and slowly wean off the co2 supps. Increase gas exchange with extra turbulence at the surface with a powerhead if needed.


----------



## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

+1 for walzon1
A detailed description of the lights may help this also. 8 hrs of four T5 bulbs is too much for example. So is running full tilt on a BML LED light especially the BX models.


----------



## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

djt5278 said:


> Joined the forum finally, could find this problem anywhere else. I have a really bad algae bloom in my tank, I've been battling algae for a few months now on and off. I just cannot get this algae to clear regardless of what I do.
> I have a 55 gallon tank very heavily planted, I don't know the plant types. 30 pounds of fluorite gravel and 30 pounds of fluorite sand mixed For substrate. All plants occasionally get fertilizer tabs when needed but they rarely need it, dosed a few times a week with flourish excell and liquid c02. Over half the tank is dense plants. No dead fish in tank, four crayfish clean up any that die. *substrate never needs cleaned because of good caniste filter*, and 25-30% water change weekly. Filter gets cleaned as needed usually 2-3 weeks, cleaned with tank water. Well water re added with normal pH and zero nitrates. Tank reads high ph, which has been high forever. Zero nitrates, zero nitrites. Fish all very happy and healthy.
> I can't figure this out! Everywhere online says plants should outgrow the algae, but I don't believe it because my plants are growing like crazy. Any help is greatly appreciated!


People have given some good advice. Some people say "Just grow your plants.", meaning give them enough ferts and light. Not too much light or it will stop them from growing and outcompeteing the algae. There are a lot of reasons for getting algae. Here's something for you to look at: http://www.aquariumalgae.blogspot.com/. At the most basic level of talking about algae, it means that there is something or things that are out of balance in your tank, so the plants have a harder time growing and the algae just eat it up.


----------



## Jcstank (Jan 3, 2015)

It would help if you list additional information:

1. Type of light, time on, and how high from substrate to bulb or bulbs?
2. Do you dose any fertilizers, Micos and macros?
3. What is your nitrate and phosphate levels before you change and after you change water?
4. How many fish and type or what is your bio load?
5. How old is the tank or is it matured?
6. PH, KH, GH? 
7. What if any buffers do you use? Is it phosphate based?
8. water temperature?
9. What plants do you have? Are they fast growers?

You should consider lightly vacuuming over the substrate without disturbing it every once in a while regardless of how well you think the canister filter does as preventative maintenance. It can't hurt anything to do that but if too much decaying stuff and poo remain on the bottom over time than you can run into problems. Consider adding some shredders like Amino shrimp or ghost shrimp. They help shred up that small decaying matter so that the bacteria can break it down and convert it into nutrients that the plants can use.

In order to reduce the likelihood of algae taking over you need a good balance of light to C02/carbon source without any deficiency of micro and macro nutrients. you already stated you are heavily planted, which is good. Consider researching the EI method (estimate index) of dosing fertilizers with weekly 50% water changes as this is a proven easy method of avoiding any nutrient deficiencies. I believe Tom Barr invented/introduced this method here. If you choose to go this route than consider purchasing dry fertilizers as this is the cheapest and most effective way to use EI method. If your tank is small than you could use Seachem liquid fertilizers for Nitrogen, Potassium, and Phosphate with Flourish trace, Flourish, and flourish iron for the micro.

You're on the right track and I think you just need to fine tune things to reduce the algae.


----------



## BruceF (Aug 5, 2011)

Perhaps your real problem is the lack of nutrition for the plants. I would consider reading up on fertilizers and increasing the amounts you are feeding this tank.


----------



## rick dale (Feb 26, 2014)

Flourish excell and liquid co2 are the same thing. And you need 10 to 20 ppm nitrates for your plants to grow properly. A heavily planted tank will probably need injected co2 along with the proper lighting to keep algae at a minimum. Ferts will need to be there daily for the plants , in the correct proportions. Sounds like you need to do some more googling on planted aquarium care and basics. Good luck.


----------



## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

tamsin said:


> Have you tried reducing your light? Either dimming it, shorter photo period or adding a shade eg floating plants to reduce it.


+ 1

One thing that would help is floating plants. Cover the top with them and over couple week they will out grow the algae. I had bad algae on some swords and kept adding floating plants and the new leaves are algae free.


----------



## djt5278 (Feb 28, 2015)

I have an eBay led light which has 128 white leds, not home now so I can't check on the exact brand etc.
I use flourish excell only now. 
I don't have anything to check phosphates but nitrates don't change from zero before and after water change. 
I have about 8 black mollys, four gouramis, one 4 inch catfish, four crayfish, two danios, a small albino frog, and two four inch plecos.
tank will be a year old next month I believe. 
PH is over 8.5, KH is high, GH is low. 
All my plants seem to be fast growers except one big busy plant I have. It has big leaves that span from the gravel to the top and it shot out a stem before that sprouted 5 more and I planted them, all 6 are the same size now. Take up half my tank. 

What I'm seeing is that I need to 1. Get a new test kit, and 2. Get a complete nutrient source. 

My question is what test kit and what fertilizers should I get?


----------



## leemacnyc (Dec 28, 2005)

http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html


----------



## James M (Jun 21, 2012)

rick dale said:


> Flourish excell and liquid co2 are the same thing. And you need 10 to 20 ppm nitrates for your plants to grow properly. A heavily planted tank will probably need injected co2 along with the proper lighting to keep algae at a minimum. Ferts will need to be there daily for the plants , in the correct proportions. Sounds like you need to do some more googling on planted aquarium care and basics. Good luck.


Not so much.
A heavily planted tank with strong lighting will probably need Co2.
A heavily planted 'Walstad' or 'El Natural' tank with low or moderate lighting will not need Co2 if set up properly. Thus my comment above about floaters - they go a long ways toward eating up excess nutrients to keep algae at bay.

A soil substrate also goes a LONG way toward mitigating the need for dosing,etc so long as lighting is kept in check.


Sometimes a 'low tech' tank can actually be low tech.


----------

