# Solenoid continues CO2 output even if it's switched off



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

The left meter is telling you there is about 1000PSI (lbs square inch) in the tank. this is normal for a full tank. the right is a problem, though. It is telling you the amount of pressure going toward the aquarium through the solenoid. Most solenoids will not operate to stop that high pressure. In the center of the regulator, there should be an adjustment to turn this pressure down. Turning the adjustment screw or handle counter clockwise should reduce the pressure if the tubing and solenoid are letting gas go through. The problem is that the solenoid is not able to fully close when the pressure is this high. If the regulator is working as it should turning the adjustment down to between 10 and 30 PSI should fix the not shutting off. 
150 PSI is too high pressure for plastic tubing and it may split but the gas and other parts are safe. If this pressure can't be turned down the regulator may be defective but try this first?


----------



## aqenthusiast (May 12, 2012)

I have this big steel knob in the center. . Do I open that ?










This one ;










There is this small one on side as well:










Which one do I adjust ?


(The solenoid is out of warranty, so there is nothing to return to seller now, I will need to do all the mechanics required, so no problem on that)



Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk


----------



## aqenthusiast (May 12, 2012)

thanks plantedrich I did the adventure and rotated the center knob !!! after some pressure applying it started to unscrew ! took that completely out. . There was some valve mechanism inside (springs and rubber rings and some related stuff, the kind of things which gives you an instinct - "don't touch it"  ). . And I refitted the whole thing again. . Pressure is now reduced and there in no co2 leakage after solenoid off  I did not clean or anything as I was careful not to touch any delicate valve parts. . Just unscrewed and refitted.. Could not understand what exactly happened.. What gives ? What was wrong ?



















Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Main problem is very new user! No offense meant. We are all new at times. 
You have done the correct thing. The large center knob is to adjust the working or outlet pressure. This is where you want to change if your bubble count or flow is not what you like.
The second point in the pictures may be a safety valve. Don't move or bother it. It is adjusted to keep the tank from blowing up in emergencies like a fire. Instead of the tank bursting this seal will burst and relieve the pressure. Not to worry. It will only happen if the tanks is really, really hot. 
The reg has a spring inside under the knob you turned. When you turn the knob in, the spring presses down harder on a diaphragm (seal?) and opens it slightly to let more pressure through. That is how it "regulates" the pressure. The problem is that it seems backwards to many as we often turn things the other way.
A point that may help? Before you open the tank valve, it is good to turn the large knob counter clockwise until you feel the pressure from the spring released. When you open the tank valve, do it pretty slow. This lets the gas go in somewhat slower and hit the meters less hard. The regulator uses the spring and the gas pressure to balance or regulate the pressure and it takes a short time to get this balance. When the knob is turned all the way out (counterclock?) the pressure does not go through to the low pressure meter or solenoid while the reg gets fully working. If you leave the knob passing pressure to the low pressure meter, there can be a small amount of time when the pressure is really high like 500 PSI. If you let this high pressure reach the low pressure meter, it can bend the needle, break parts inside or cause it to leak. 
When changing tanks--
Turn the tank knob closed, turn the reg knob until loose, remove and change tank.
Then put new tank on, open tank knob slowly so that pressure on the high pressure meter builds kind of slow, when tank knob is fully open, THEN turn working pressure knob clockwise to get back to the pressure you want. 
It looks like you have your pressure set really higher than most would use. If you have a ceramic diffuser, you may need this high pressure but I would go lower if it is not needed. 
Plastic tubing may blow off fittings or split sooner at high pressure. 

A picture of what's inside a reg?









Enjoy and don't worry about questions when you need to ask.


----------



## exv152 (Jun 8, 2009)

As mentioned, you're still a bit high at about 40 psi, I would reduce it a slight bit more to about 25-30psi. If you're using a ceramic disc diffuser that should be more than enough pressure. I would leak test the whole thing, just to be sure you have it properly sealed after having opened the main body. Just use some dish soap in a spray bottle or a can of glass cleaner (foam type), and look for any bubbles forming.


----------



## aqenthusiast (May 12, 2012)

Thanks plantedrich for your inputs. . It is useful to understand what you have mentioned. .I will get back with my queries on what I don't understand in that. .

Thanks exv for the input on probable still higher pressure. .

The center knob I have I don't think it is "adjustable". .There is no screw in it which I can adjust. .i think it opens up or fits tight.. It was too much tight when I opened it as mentioned above. . It does not seem to be "adjustable screw" . And there is no screw inside as well. . is it possible that some valves are"factory set" to some fixed pressure ?


Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

My mistake1 I did not look carefully but thought there was a knob on a shaft that turned. I see now the is not true. It does look like there is no adjustment there. But having a spring with no way to adjust it seems odd. This may be difficult to use for our tanks. 
Why the pressure changed when you opened it may be explained, though. Possible that the seal or spring inside had stuck and was bumped or moved so that it came free? Only guessing as this is not the type I am used to seeing. Sorry.


----------



## aqenthusiast (May 12, 2012)

No not at all to say sorry plantedrich.. You helped a lot in resolving an important difficulty I had !!! And that is what i also feel that spring or something inside was"stuck" and came in place by the opening and closing. . It is working now for sure .. and yes this seems to be kind of "factory set" model. . 

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk


----------



## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I thought I was looking at this type. Bad eye!










I think what might have happened is the meter and the spring inside the reg, went very high, almost to the top and stuck there. Then when you opened it to look, it came loose. Sometimes things do things just meant to confuse us? Hope it works for you.


----------

