# What percentage of water should I change per week?



## Clayman (Jan 7, 2015)

I do 50% water change on all my tanks weekly.


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## crazy4fids (Dec 3, 2014)

I also do 50.


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## Izzy- (Jun 11, 2014)

I only do about 30%-40% every week.


My main reason for doing water changes is just to replenish nutrients that come from the tap.


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## Jethro702 (Jul 18, 2014)

I've been doing 30% a week. This thread maybe could shed some light on what others do


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

I do roughly 33% weekly... ish. (one 5 gal bucket's worth of a 17 gal tank, which probably has 15 gals of water in it after substrate and hardscape displacement is accounted for)


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## CannaBrain (Oct 3, 2008)

If you does w/ ei, you really should be doing at least 50% wc once a week. I can't say I'm regular. Some tanks get changed twice a week, some twice a month... some twice a year (embarrassed face). Volumes change as well, but it ranges from 30% - 60% usually.


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## thinBear (Dec 16, 2011)

If ur tape water is rich with co2, too frequent WC may actually fake the plant, which eventually lead to poor growth.

http://www.barrreport.com/forum/barr-report/non-co2-methods/2936-non-co2-methods


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## lee739 (Oct 12, 2014)

50% per week. Minimal extra effort to go from 25% to 50% by the time I've filled buckets, trimmed plants, cleaned glass, replanted tops and cleaned pre-filters.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

50% weekly for my low tech 80 gal.
70% for 55 gal housing one Royal pleco,one A rivulatus (green terror).
50% for 20 gal shrimp tank.
Raised a group of Discus via bucket brigade some year's back in the 55 gal and changed 70% three times a week for nearly a year till the fish became adult size.(get's old in a hurry)
With Python and or simple garden hose and small pump, 50% water changes for one tank take about 20 min.
Large water changes are easy and it does remove more of what need's removed than smaller ones (ie) dissolved solids,suspended particulates,and keeps water parameter's stable and close to that from the tap.
plant's also benefit from the water changes by extracting mineral's such as magnesium,calcium,and for some,nitrates.
That which plant's and snail's,shrimps,and fishes cannot use,they excrete or respire and larger water changes remove more than smaller water changes.
Also found that when raising large number's of fry ,they grow faster with three or four small feeding's per day = more waste to remove and fishes grew faster which allowed me to sell/trade them quicker .


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## Bushkill (Feb 15, 2012)

25% to 50% every 5 days.

With 24 tanks, it's a simple daily rotation and the biggest tank gets the smaller % simply because I pre-mix a dry dechlorinator before WC and that's as much as I can do at one time.


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## Paintcraze (Apr 4, 2013)

I think the answer depends on what you are doing for fertilization, how heavily your tank is planted, and how heavily it is stocked.


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## philipraposo1982 (Mar 6, 2014)

+1 with what paintcraze said.

for starters if your dosing ei, 50% is required imo. no less. or else build up of salts will happen and could results in negative things to fish and plants.

if your generating 10ppm nitrates a week for example and you only do 25% weekly this is what will happen.

week 1: 10ppm with 25% removed = 7.5ppm remaining
week 2: before wc nitrates now at 17.5, remove 25% = 13ish ppm
week 3: before wc nitrates now at 23ish ppm, remove 25% = 17.25ppm
week 4: before wc nitrates now at 27ish ppm, remove 25% = 21ish ppm
week 5: before wc nitrates now at 31ish ppm, remove 25% = 24.5ppm
week 6: before wc nitrates now at 34ish ppm, remove 25% = 26.5ppm
week 7: before wc nitrates now at 36.5ish ppm, remove 25% = 27.5pm

as you can see you nitrates by the end of week 8 is now approaching 40ppm, getting high don't you think? thats only 2 month old tank. imagine someone who never test and says "meh, i do 25% a week i should be fine". well the reality is the tank may be but it will forsure always be 30ppm at minimum while the max before the weekly wc will hit 40ppm.

in this situation I would suggest a 50% minimum wc weekly. this would ensure the max nitrates should ever be is 20ppm and minimum would be around 10ppm. alot better i think.

This is just to sure you some long term effects on how much you change can effect water quality. to some this is obvious while other may not see it.


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## mesohorny (Nov 13, 2014)

Paintcraze said:


> I think the answer depends on what you are doing for fertilization, how heavily your tank is planted, and how heavily it is stocked.


for sure. personally, i have two tanks that get water changes essentially every day. i have a 20 long i am prepping for an apisto trio with only dithers inhabiting it for the time being, while the plants establish themselves and grow in. i'm changing roughly 17% daily, sometimes skipping a day. i also have a 27 cube, which currently just houses Aspidoras sp, Otocinclus sp, and RCS. this tank is just in a holding pattern, soon to be broken down and rescaped, after being moved to a new location within the house. in the meantime, it gets a daily change of roughly 13%, sometimes skipping a day.

why such specific percentages, you ask? i have a 3.5 gallon bucket i use for both. 3.5 gallons out, and 3.5 gallons back in. i think it works. my goal is, by providing fresh water daily, to keep the water parameters as stable as possible while at the same time still keeping toxins and the TDS down. seems to be working well at the moment; everyone seems healthy and happy.

i'm using tap water, which, here in Columbus, keeps my tanks right at about 7 pH, 2 KH, and 3 GH, and a TDS ranging from 170 to 220 (on account of different dosing schedules). might have to invest in an RO unit should i decide i want those Apistos to breed, but that's another discussion.


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## Zoidborg (Jan 29, 2014)

20G Planted = 25% bi-weekly, top up (5%) bi-weekly, 50% at end of month
7.9G Planted = 25% bi-weekly, top up (5%) bi-weekly, 50% at end of month
5G Tall Planted = 25% bi-weekly, top up (5%) bi-weekly, 50% at end of month
5G Betta Planted = 20% weekly, 50% at end of month

Tap water treated with PRIME. =]
And I dose bi weekly with Seachems Plant Dosing Schedule.
All tanks are heavily planted and have a cleanup crew of Assasins, Amano, Cherry and Otos.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

Paintcraze said:


> I think the answer depends on what you are doing for fertilization, how heavily your tank is planted, and how heavily it is stocked.


 ^+1^
I shoot for 50% every week except in breeder and fry tanks which have their own particular criteria.
I will add if I know I will be too busy I feed less,possibly even fert less,for the given time.
An established system can go through changes with out it being the end.
But it doesn't hurt to help and observe .


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

Wow you people have a lot more time than I do.

I'm low tech and change 25% to 30% every two weeks. I watch my nitrates and use it more as guide to water changes than days of the week. My q/t are done once week with some were around 30%. The only way I would do 50% is if I were breeding are raising fry. I don't think you need to change 50% a week and I think it's over kill. But it all has to do with fish loads and nitrate.


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## mesohorny (Nov 13, 2014)

the way I look at it is that you don't _need_ to feed and walk your dog everyday, but it'll be a lot happier and healthier if you do.


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

mesohorny said:


> the way I look at it is that you don't _need_ to feed and walk your dog everyday, but it'll be a lot happier and healthier if you do.


I'm sorry but you have to feed your dog every day if you want to have a dog for long and who's to say that fish are happier with w/c have you talk to them?


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## GraphicGr8s (Apr 4, 2011)

My WCs all depend on the tank. The tanks in the house get it when I feel like it. My rearing tanks in the fish house get 10% every night. At least that's what I aim for. Doesn't always happen though. Tonight will be a 40-50% since I know I won't be home tomorrow night. It's not really as bad as it sounds. The rearing tanks are for the most part 10 gallons. So it works out I take 25% out to fill the bucket. Filling is right from the hose so not a big deal.
The display tanks 40-50% once a week.


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## THE V (Nov 17, 2011)

Low tech tanks generally don't require as much water changes as high tech. I've found that dosing ferts every 2 weeks right after a 50% water change works well on my lowtech tanks. 

I have to do a pruning once per month, especially for the vals and swords.


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## Guyver (Feb 12, 2010)

I change 50% once weekly (Sundays). On a 10 gallon, it's one bucket and I'm done. I use a siphon both for draining and refilling. Takes me about 20 minutes, including some basic filter maintenance (wringing out media in old tank water), and I water my house plants while I'm at it!


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

what is the ei dosing?


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## Clayman (Jan 7, 2015)

schnebbles said:


> what is the ei dosing?


EI stands for estimated index. It's a fertilizer dosing regimen. Mostly for high light tanks. Developed by Tom Barr.


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## caique (Mar 16, 2012)

Clear Water said:


> I'm sorry but you have to feed your dog every day if you want to have a dog for long and who's to say that fish are happier with w/c have you talk to them?


 I do 50% weekly.

I personally talk to my fish all the time, do you talk to your dog?


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

schnebbles said:


> what is the ei dosing?


All the ferts you'll need for a year, or more, depending on the size of your tank. 

http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/micro-macro-fertilizers.html


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## JoeGREEEN (Jun 28, 2011)

Clear Water said:


> I'm sorry but you have to feed your dog every day if you want to have a dog for long and who's to say that fish are happier with w/c have you talk to them?


Well optimal water conditions are a key factor for color and growth and overall health of many fish, idk about you but health may not be the only answer to "happiness" but it does help.


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

caique said:


> I do 50% weekly.
> 
> I personally talk to my fish all the time, do you talk to your dog?


Yea I talk to my dogs, but they never answer me. So much better than my wife she talks all the time.:hihi:

I never talk to the fish they just ignore me. But I would love to know what they are thinking. *(feed me, feed me) *

Sorry op got off subject.


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## jlfkona (Jan 1, 2013)

My high tech tank - 50% once a week. My low tech tanks - 30% every other or every third week. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

I started in the hobby keeping large cichlids and 50% was minimum amount of water changed each week for they produced a lot of waste.
Just kept this routine.

Bump:


Clear Water said:


> Wow you people have a lot more time than I do.
> 
> I'm low tech and change 25% to 30% every two weeks. I watch my nitrates and use it more as guide to water changes than days of the week. My q/t are done once week with some were around 30%. The only way I would do 50% is if I were breeding are raising fry. I don't think you need to change 50% a week and I think it's over kill. But it all has to do with fish loads and nitrate.


 I don't understand what time has to do with it.
If you make water changes easier via Python or similar apparatus,then 50% water changes take not much more time than 20%.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

roadmaster said:


> I don't understand what time has to do with it.
> If you make water changes easier via Python or similar apparatus,then 50% water changes take not much more time than 20%.


If you're hauling buckets with a big tank (or even a mid-size tank that still requires more than one run with a 5 gal bucket), it's pretty obvious what time has to do with it.

Otherwise, I agree.


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

that python looks pretty nice! didn't know they made such a beast, lol! Too bad my kitchen has a pull down sprayer on the sink, I'll have to run it to the bathroom if I get one.

can you make one yourself? It seems like a lot for a couple connections and clear tubing.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

I do 50% on Sundays for my 35 hex and 5.5g. My 46g gets 50% on Mondays. I'd do them all on Sunday but after the 35 and 5.5 my acclimated water is gone, so I let some stew in buckets for the 46 on Monday. I use this contraption unless I have to vacuum. Hooks right up to my intake line for my eheims, open the ball valves, put the end outside and drain away! When I'm done draining, the hose end hooks upto a pump, or hose bib depending on which tank and water fills the tank via the intake strainer.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you don't dose Excel, and don't use CO2, you should either just top off the tank water, and maybe change 50+% every couple of months or longer. That is because most tap water has a lot of CO2 in it, and the surge in CO2 followed by a big drop in CO2 tends to make BBA start growing. In most other situations water changes are very good for the fish and plants, the bigger the better. But, if you find you need to adjust the parameters of the water before adding it to the tank, you would probably soon get burned out by all of the work required for big water changes. I change about 30-40% of my tank water every week to two weeks. And, I do dose Excel.


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## EndlerGame (Oct 19, 2013)

kman said:


> If you're hauling buckets with a big tank (or even a mid-size tank that still requires more than one run with a 5 gal bucket), it's pretty obvious what time has to do with it.
> 
> Otherwise, I agree.


I'm still on the hose and bucket system...and I've got 7 tanks, totaling ~278 gallons. And I still do 50% water changes weekly...that's dozens of buckets of dirty water carried to the drain and clean water carried back to the tank every week. At 40 lbs per bucket, its a good little workout regimen. 

I've got a lot of buckets though, so I can be dumping one in the drain while another is filling...saves a little time. But I enjoy working on my tanks...I'm in this hobby to give good homes to my aquatic friends, plants and animals alike, and so any time spent on keeping them healthy is time well spent to me...and I'm rewarded with my work by fish that are always in top condition, and frequently spawning, even in all my community tanks.

And I know I'm doing more maintenance than is really necessary, so I don't feel too bad if something comes up that prevents me from getting to the tank for a bit.


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## lee739 (Oct 12, 2014)

EndlerGame said:


> I'm still on the hose and bucket system...and I've got 7 tanks, totaling ~278 gallons. And I still do 50% water changes weekly...that's dozens of buckets of dirty water carried to the drain and clean water carried back to the tank every week. At 40 lbs per bucket, its a good little workout regimen.


Wow.... that's impressive - I have one 44g, I've been using buckets to do a weekly 50% w/c, and am starting to ponder a semi-bucketless system already!


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

When folks say they use bioload to determine how much water to change,it is wise to not only figure how many fishes per volume of water, and or size of same, but also the amount of food and waste (poop) that often accumulates.
Plant's will use some organic's ,filter trap's some as well,but what is left is up to us to remove .
Larger water changes will remove more than smaller water changes.


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

I don't understand what time has to do with it.
If you make water changes easier via Python or similar apparatus,then 50% water changes take not much more time than 20%.[/QUOTE]

For me I work 12 hours a days. It is more about having enough time to do the change then the time it takes. Also I have to make my water being it's ro water and you know the more tanks you have the more work you have. Don't get me wrong I love this hobby and I know it takes a commitment to keep these pets but I sorry I don't feel you need to make A 50% change every week for the health of our pets. Don't get me wrong if you want to change that much water that's your business and I'm just glad that your commitment.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Well, to each their own.
When and if one begins with 50% at the outset, then one can be assured that 50% water changes will remove more of what one wishes to remove. Or in the case of large waste producing fishes ,over stocked tank's,over fed tanks (common) what NEEDS to be removed.
If you begin with 50% water changes,then this is what the fishes become accustomed to and can help with the overcrowded,over fed,tanks which are not unusual .
If the water changes are not large enough to export the waste created from food's,poop,overcrowding,then fishes will die off over time to what the tank condition's can support.
When I dabbled at R/O I made up the water a week ahead of time and stored it in a large Rubbermaid trash barrel.
A day before it was needed,I placed a heater and power head in the tank.
I realize not all have room for storing water but as I mentioned it's about tryig to make the maint as easy on ourselves as possible least we get lazy and neglect the critter's we care for. 
If 20% works for you,then great.But 20% may not be enough once fishes begin to grow to adult size(cichlids for example), or once number's of fishes are increased,both of which often result in more food being offered and more waste created in often crowded and or too small of a tank.(I'll get a larger tank as they grow,promise).


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## jmf3460 (Aug 21, 2013)

I do about a 35% weekly but every 3rd week (or once monthly however you want to look at it) I do a large one of about 75%-80% and clean out one of the two filters/replace media


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Didn't get my first Python until about six year's ago .It came with a used 75 gal I bought.
The year's before were bucket brigade including the rearing of a group of juvenile Discus that required four small feeding's a day and three weekly 70% water changes to remove the waste created by these fishes . = nitrates < 40 ppm.
Tank was 55 gal.This got old after two or three month's, but the results were worth it.
Folks over at SimplyDiscus scoffed at my routine and insisted that daily 75 to 80 % daily water changes were needed to get the fishes to reach full potential but three 70% water changes were all I was willing to do each week.(did I mention bucket's?)
I helped myself out by not offering beef heart which fouled the water quickly, and by the end of the year,the fishes had grown to around five inches maybe a couple reached six inches on a diet of flakes,pellet's,chopped shrimp,krill,and earthworms, freeze dried cricket's,and occasional bloodworms .


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## Clear Water (Sep 20, 2014)

roadmaster said:


> Well, to each their own.
> When and if one begins with 50% at the outset, then one can be assured that 50% water changes will remove more of what one wishes to remove. Or in the case of large waste producing fishes ,over stocked tank's,over fed tanks (common) what NEEDS to be removed.
> If you begin with 50% water changes,then this is what the fishes become accustomed to and can help with the overcrowded,over fed,tanks which are not unusual .
> If the water changes are not large enough to export the waste created from food's,poop,overcrowding,then fishes will die off over time to what the tank condition's can support.
> ...


My big tank has over 60 fish and has been set up over two years with only one fish lost in that time. I know all about changing water I have kept discus before and at that time changed over 50% per week. As far as having a water tank for w/c I have 100 gallon tank and sometimes my water sits for two weeks before use. To me that's the key to fish keeping everything consistence. My water comes from a well and is very hard and high on ph so ro is the best for me. I had more luck breeding with that water than any other. Not that I want them to breed but it nice to know there happy.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Well ,your routine works for you and that is well and good = happy fishes.
Does in no way mean that those who change more water more frequently, and or perform larger water changes ,are overkill.
Cannot know what might or might not work for other's.
Just sayin.


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## Coralbandit (Feb 25, 2013)

I find it interesting that many just continue with how they were taught . Baring disaster it is "good enough".
I question even letting our test guide us as we don't really test for everything?I mean do we know about everything in the water?
Dissolved organics don't always show up on nitrate test.
A quick run with PP would make many question what is in their "clean water".
Hormones won't show up in any test I seen for sale lately!
All sorts of things play a role on our fish health and growth.
The best thing you can do for fish is change water.
How much how often we can argue,but the effect of changing water can not be argued.
It is simple math and proven method of nutrient export.Few other techniques can be measured so accurately and done so cheaply.
Only my 180g is semi automated ,I bucket or wheel(32g brutes)for the other 800+g!
Over 30 years of changing water, and I have never owned a python!


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## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

roadmaster said:


> When folks say they use bioload to determine how much water to change,it is wise to not only figure how many fishes per volume of water, and or size of same, but also the amount of food and waste (poop) that often accumulates.
> Plant's will use some organic's ,filter trap's some as well,but what is left is up to us to remove .
> Larger water changes will remove more than smaller water changes.


If I wanted to minimize water changes (which would be nice, I guess) I would like to use some test that would tell me when I needed to change water and how much. It used to be NO3, but that was before I kept a planted tank. Now, with plants eating ammonia and my dosing KNO3, NO3 might not be a good indicator. I wonder if TDS might do the trick if logged.

BTW, I change 50% of my 10 gallon tank weekly, which amounts to 2 2.5 gallon trips with a 5 gallon bucket. Awfully awkward to pour it in. The tank is located where I could use a Python. I add Equilibrium and a water conditioner in the bucket. How would this work with a Python? Should I just use a powerhead and tubing from the bucket? I know it doesn't sound like I'm doing a lot, but the lights get in the way and I have to be careful to pour right on top of the internal fillter so I don't disturb the sand. Unpleasant would be going too far so I would just say "awkward." I do it anyway.

Thank you.


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

Django said:


> If I wanted to minimize water changes (which would be nice, I guess) I would like to use some test that would tell me when I needed to change water and how much. It used to be NO3, but that was before I kept a planted tank. Now, with plants eating ammonia and my dosing KNO3, NO3 might not be a good indicator. I wonder if TDS might do the trick if logged.
> 
> BTW, I change 50% of my 10 gallon tank weekly, which amounts to 2 2.5 gallon trips with a 5 gallon bucket. Awfully awkward to pour it in. The tank is located where I could use a Python. I add Equilibrium and a water conditioner in the bucket. How would this work with a Python? Should I just use a powerhead and tubing from the bucket? I know it doesn't sound like I'm doing a lot, but the lights get in the way and I have to be careful to pour right on top of the internal fillter so I don't disturb the sand. Unpleasant would be going too far so I would just say "awkward." I do it anyway.
> 
> Thank you.


Ok, first off, 50% of a 10 gal tank should fit perfectly into a 5 gal bucket (especially if you have any substrate and hardscape in your tank, displacing water so you don't actually have a full 10 gallons). So that should be one trip, by my math. (I use a second 5 gal bucket with new fresh water) Unless you can't lift a full 5 gal bucket so you need two smaller trips?

That said, check this thread for inspiration on how to lower your workload:

*Water Change equipment?*
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=783330

In particular, see the brilliantly simple rig the guy in post 36 built:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showpost.php?p=7244298&postcount=36










Just size it so the intake is halfway down into your tank, and it'll automatically pull out 50% of the water. Then when you reverse the flow with fresh water (with a powerhead, from the bucket), the T fitting at the end automatically redirects the flow so it won't mess up your substrate.

Pure genius. I can't want to build one myself.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Django said:


> If I wanted to minimize water changes (which would be nice, I guess) I would like to use some test that would tell me when I needed to change water and how much. It used to be NO3, but that was before I kept a planted tank. Now, with plants eating ammonia and my dosing KNO3, NO3 might not be a good indicator. I wonder if TDS might do the trick if logged.
> 
> BTW, I change 50% of my 10 gallon tank weekly, which amounts to 2 2.5 gallon trips with a 5 gallon bucket. Awfully awkward to pour it in. The tank is located where I could use a Python. I add Equilibrium and a water conditioner in the bucket. How would this work with a Python? Should I just use a powerhead and tubing from the bucket? I know it doesn't sound like I'm doing a lot, but the lights get in the way and I have to be careful to pour right on top of the internal fillter so I don't disturb the sand. Unpleasant would be going too far so I would just say "awkward." I do it anyway.
> 
> Thank you.


Depot sells a 2.5g bucket, makes things much easier. Buy the lid too. You can use the lid to pour the water on diffusing it as to not mess up your sub.


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

what is the black/grey piece that is zip tied?


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## kman (Dec 11, 2013)

schnebbles said:


> what do you mean powerhead in the bucket? I know what a powerhead is but why in the bucket?


Read: Pump. Pumps the water out of the bucket, back through the PVC contraption, and into the tank, without any lifting and pouring.


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

I went back and re-read the original post. sorry about that!


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## Django (Jun 13, 2012)

> Ok, first off, 50% of a 10 gal tank should fit perfectly into a 5 gal bucket (especially if you have any substrate and hardscape in your tank, displacing water so you don't actually have a full 10 gallons). So that should be one trip, by my math. (I use a second 5 gal bucket with new fresh water) Unless you can't lift a full 5 gal bucket so you need two smaller trips?[\QUOTE]
> I have been going along thinking that a 5 gal. bucket has just enough space inside to hold 5 gals. Actually, the 2.5 gal. mark inside the bucket is pretty low. I change 5 gallons and call it 50%.
> 
> I consulted a friend about the Python and he said that water conditioner works instantly, so I think that means I can put the water conditioner in the tank and then fill it with the Python. Thanks for the replies.


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## EndlerGame (Oct 19, 2013)

schnebbles said:


> what is the black/grey piece that is zip tied?


It's a pipe fitting that's the right size for that clear tubing to fit snugly over it, and the zip ties are tightened around the hose to hold it in place and prevent leaks.

Zip ties aren't the best tool for this job, you should use one or two hose clamps, which have a screw to tighten them and really prevent any leaks...and a useful tool for many aquarium plumbing problems. They're probably less than a buck at your hardware store.

Bump:


EndlerGame said:


> It's a pipe fitting that's the right size for that clear tubing to fit snugly over it, and the zip ties are tightened around the hose to hold it in place and prevent leaks.
> 
> Zip ties aren't the best tool for this job, you should use one or two hose clamps, which have a screw to tighten them and will actually stop any leaks...they are a useful tool for many aquarium plumbing problems. They're probably less than a buck at your hardware store.


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## adive (Oct 30, 2013)

The past 1.5 months I had to rehome my fish from my usual heavily planted tank to a temporary non planted tank. I did an experiment of changing 10% water every 2-3 days regularly and man, did I see fantastic growth in my fish!

Now the fish are back in their usual planted tank and I will see how things go with that kind of WCs.

In my walstad its a 25 % change once in 2 weeks. Very very low fish stock in that one.


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## Algae. (Apr 12, 2014)

i do 100% water changes every month


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

thanks Endler!


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