# CO2 pressurized system, builders unite!



## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Built this last week, pretty happy with it because it is the *first* functional high output pressure regulator system that I built.
Virtually all major components are Parker:
Parker IR6000 regulator with 250 psi max output, 
Kip/(Parker skinner) stainless steel solenoid.
Parker HR metering valve with turn counter handle.

the notable item and the reason I post this system is the new found Kip stainless steel solenoid, it is only 1.5watts, and 300psi max holding pressure, and, two outlet ports. Because of this solenoid, it is the first system that I build with 250 psi max output pressure.


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

Do I see brass??
🤑


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## Beachcruiser (Aug 13, 2019)

Nice. Can you "clock" that solenoid at the 9 and 6 positions?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

OVT said:


> Do I see brass??
> 🤑


:grin2:
can't find a matched pair complete stainless steel gauges, but the weiss gauges are stainless steel cases.



Beachcruiser said:


> Nice. Can you "clock" that solenoid at the 9 and 6 positions?


because the position of the outlets on the solenoid, I arrange the postbody in this style to save the fittings, if you think other arrangement of the postbody will look better, I will try it again, probably this weekend.

a couple more pictures.


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## Beachcruiser (Aug 13, 2019)

No, it's very nice as is!

I was just wondering if it had other options....


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

How this look? I put the parts together to test the flowmeter, it is big, looks like flowmeter has to be inline, or mounted somewhere on tank stand.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Technically, if the outlet isn't at ATM then the tube should be reversed to put the metering valve on the outlet side, not inlet. Like if using in line or diffusion disc. Suppose it's fine for reactors. Not exactly sure why, but that's the recommendation as I understand it.

Never mind, seems they changed that a bit.....
Or not..??
https://store.mathesongas.com/rotameter-guide/



> Should I have the valve on the inlet or the outlet of the rotameter?
> The valve should be on the inlet when the gas is to be used at atmospheric pressure. The valve should be on the outlet if there is a vacuum or varying pressure downstream.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

jeffkrol said:


> Technically, if the outlet isn't at ATM then the tube should be reversed to put the metering valve on the outlet side, not inlet. Like if using in line or diffusion disc. Suppose it's fine for reactors. Not exactly sure why, but that's the recommendation as I understand it.
> 
> Never mind, seems they changed that a bit.....
> Or not..??
> https://store.mathesongas.com/rotameter-guide/


float control valve at the outlet side is for flow rate monitoring under specific pressure setting(pressure in tube other than atmosphere pressure).
float control valve at the inlet side is for flow rate monitoring under normal atmosphere pressure setting(pressure in tube is 0 psig, gauge pressure, or, 14.7 psia, atmosphere pressure)

and the porter/parker flow meter in the picture is capable to reverse the inlet/outlet by turning around the glass tube.

if use this flowmeter with reactor, the valve should be at inlet side because the pressure to push co2 into reactor is close to atmosphere pressure, and if use with higher back pressure type diffuser, the valve on flowmeter should be on the outlet side because the pressure inside the tube can be adjust to a specific number according to the flowmeter manufacture.

when you mention matheson rotameter I think you are on the right direction but the details can be found in this page, for flowmeter FM1050, you can check flow rate(air) of different model of glass tubes, under different pressure setting, different floating ball material. BTW, the tube models useful to us are 610A, 600, 601.
http://www.mathesongas.com/gas-handling/flow-measurement/flowmeter-calibration-600


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## Nubster (Aug 9, 2011)

This is my first that I threw together...it'll be used on my upcoming 32g tank that I'm currently building a stand for. Yes it has brass. No I don't care. It's going to be hidden under my cabinet so who gives a crap. It was a lot cheaper using brass too. Also, I used a barb because when I ordered the parts they were out of stock of the push fittings. Had I known I was going to take almost 2 years to get this tank up and running I would have waited. But at the time I was thinking I was going to get it done asap. I may replace it later. I might not if it works with no issues.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Nubster said:


> This is my first that I threw together...it'll be used on my upcoming 32g tank that I'm currently building a stand for. Yes it has brass. No I don't care. It's going to be hidden under my cabinet so who gives a crap. It was a lot cheaper using brass too. Also, I used a barb because when I ordered the parts they were out of stock of the push fittings. Had I known I was going to take almost 2 years to get this tank up and running I would have waited. But at the time I was thinking I was going to get it done asap. I may replace it later. I might not if it works with no issues.


nice regulator! make sure it is no leak and you can start the co2 for the plants


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## Darkblade48 (Jan 4, 2008)

I used to have many parts that I accumulated over the years, and slowly pieced together as complete setups for various people.


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Airgas Y12-244B dual stage regulator
Numatics 430 series solenoid
Swagelok S-series metering valve (B-SS2-A)

Post body kit thanks to @Bettatail


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)




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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Built these a while back. 



















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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

alan, that is a nice arrangement of the valves.
There is plenty of time right now, to put together some more nice exhibition grade custom co2 systems.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> alan, that is a nice arrangement of the valves.
> There is plenty of time right now, to put together some more nice exhibition grade custom co2 systems.



I ran out of parts lol. Did you customize the 10-32 nut to fit the 1/8 tube needle valve? 


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

yes, the stainless steel 1/8 tube end to 1/8 npt adapters are plenty on evil bay, but they are weak at the tube, imo, so I make my own adapters.


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Now you guys are just showing off! I really enjoy seeing the configurations to both keep consistent material types (stainless steel) and to keep the components as compact as possible.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Betatail what do you think of this one? It came with the reg. 


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

AlanLe said:


> Betatail what do you think of this one? It came with the reg.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


https://www.kofloc.co.jp/kofloc_e/p..._id=515&product_id=441&filename=copy_2412.pdf


https://www.kofloc.co.jp/kofloc_e/product/detail.php?type=2&category_id=515&product_id=441

https://www.kofloc.co.jp/kofloc_e/product/list.php?type=2&category_id=515


Needle id should be on there..hopefully..

Bump:


Capsaicin_MFK said:


> Now you guys are just showing off! I really enjoy seeing the configurations to both keep consistent material types (stainless steel) and to keep the components as compact as possible.



Prefer.. (well sort of) my steampunk versions..


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Betatail what do you think of this one? It came with the reg.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


nice!
if you don't see the sticker that shows you the needle cartridge model(the number in the below picture), you can check the the second line on the tag, is max flow rate rating, let me know max flow rate number, so I can decide it is cartridge model.
if the number is less than 3B, as in picture, are good, best if it is SS1.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> nice!
> if you don't see the sticker that shows you the needle cartridge model(the number in the below picture), you can check the the second line on the tag, is max flow rate rating, let me know max flow rate number, so I can decide it is cartridge model.
> if the number is less than 3B, as in picture, are good, best if it is SS1.



big white sticker looks to list the max flow (XX)0 sccm(inute)
1L/min = 1000cc/minute


Charts in L/min at various pressures..
1mPa = 9.9atm say 10.
.1mPa = 1atm

soo if sticker says 110 Sccm then should be a #S1 IF I 'm looking at this right.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Err.. ONE thing to mention.. Not seeing this in US threads 
SPEC sheet isn't really clear to me though..
Rc 1/4 or Rc 1/8 
British standard..
These will mate w/ US BUT will leak...
Looks like you do have some fittings though.. looks "tubish" but prob metric?
Not cheap valves.. best est. is about $250 US give or take a bunch..


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

saw that SS1 on the white sticker


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

damn it, I thought I was the only one have a SS1 kofloc needle cartridge, lol.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> damn it, I thought I was the only one have a SS1 kofloc needle cartridge, lol.


how's it compare to other low flow valve?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

It takes about 3-4 full turns to see a bubble coming out. This valve is surprisingly fine. 


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

flowerfishs said:


> how's it compare to other low flow valve?


there are some other valves are in this flow control precision, about 50 to 100 sccm as max flow rate, but most are not looking good as the one Alan has though.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Put this together yesterday, I think it is the best parts I can find for a brass co2 system.

I finally located a 0.52 watt Parker Hannifin series 9 solenoid, it is the brass version though, so have to build this brass version co2 system with a brass Brooks instrument NRS metering valve(another rare find, a series one NRS metering valve with digital counter handle).

this style can be copied with the ideal series 2 angle pattern needle valve and manifold mounted clippard solenoid(which are both available on the evil bay). The key to make the brass system look good is to polish the brass until mirror shine.


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> Put this together yesterday, I think it is the best parts I can find for a brass co2 system.


Wow, that thing is pretty!


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

Bettatail said:


> Put this together yesterday, I think it is the best parts I can find for a brass co2 system.
> 
> I finally located a 0.52 watt Parker Hannifin series 9 solenoid, it is the brass version though, so have to build this brass version co2 system with a brass Brooks instrument NRS metering valve(another rare find, a series one NRS metering valve with digital counter handle).
> 
> this style can be copied with the ideal series 2 angle pattern needle valve and manifold mounted clippard solenoid(which are both available on the evil bay). The key to make the brass system look good is to polish the brass until mirror shine.


If you ship it too me I can put a beautiful mirror finish on it :grin2:


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Immortal1 said:


> If you ship it too me I can put a beautiful mirror finish on it :grin2:


To find the good parts and build it, is much more fun. if you decide to build, I will be a volunteer in the TPT CO2 task force to help you building a new one :grin2:


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

Bettatail said:


> To find the good parts and build it, is much more fun. if you decide to build, I will be a volunteer in the TPT CO2 task force to help you building a new one :grin2:


Thank-you. I currently have one of Flowerfish's gems. Of course it has been modified a bit...
Originally:
Rare Victor HPT160 nickle plated dual stage regulator
Burkert 200a 4W solenoid (two)
Swagelok 21 Series Metering Valve (two)


I have since changed the fittings to stainless Swagelok. The gauges were changed out to a slightly smaller series with more appropriate ranges (regulator is always set at 20psi). 

And now the ******'s are fitted to the outputs of the Porter flow meters (two) as I was not thrilled with the sensitivity of the Porter valves.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Immortal1 said:


> Thank-you. I currently have one of Flowerfish's gems. Of course it has been modified a bit...
> Originally:
> Rare Victor HPT160 nickle plated dual stage regulator
> Burkert 200a 4W solenoid (two)
> ...



The hpt160 is very rare. A custom dual output for you. after your modification, it would be look great. show some pictures.:laugh2:


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

192531432532

Victor HPT-160D 3000 PSIG Regulator


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

I've got my old 1950's Victor lump. It needs some work as it was originally a old HeliArc welder regulator on Argon. First plan is to find a CG340 stem for the reg body.


What is an economical solenoid and needle valve combo? My injection plan is to very low pressure stream into the suction side of one of the circulation powerheads. I am not really wanting to run high CO2 levels, just 10 to 15 ppm.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

GrampsGrunge said:


> I've got my old 1950's Victor lump. It needs some work as it was originally a old HeliArc welder regulator on Argon. First plan is to find a CG340 stem for the reg body.
> 
> 
> What is an economical solenoid and needle valve combo? My injection plan is to very low pressure stream into the suction side of one of the circulation powerheads. I am not really wanting to run high CO2 levels, just 10 to 15 ppm.



Easiest...


https://www.diyco2regulator.com/co2-regulator-post-body-kit-1-12v
https://www.diyco2regulator.com/cga-320-nut-nipple


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> Easiest...
> 
> 
> https://www.diyco2regulator.com/co2-regulator-post-body-kit-1-12v
> https://www.diyco2regulator.com/cga-320-nut-nipple



I don't do crypto money  Is this the only way to buy from them?


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

GrampsGrunge said:


> I don't do crypto money  Is this the only way to buy from them?


this is the deal.

https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/...ld-co2-pressurized-system-post-body-kits.html


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

GrampsGrunge said:


> I don't do crypto money  Is this the only way to buy from them?



No it's just another payment type, not the only..



Sadly the Fabco component is out of stock.. so not available atm anyways.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

GrampsGrunge said:


> I've got my old 1950's Victor lump. It needs some work as it was originally a old HeliArc welder regulator on Argon. First plan is to find a CG340 stem for the reg body.
> 
> 
> What is an economical solenoid and needle valve combo? My injection plan is to very low pressure stream into the suction side of one of the circulation powerheads. I am not really wanting to run high CO2 levels, just 10 to 15 ppm.


what is the model number of your victor regulator? is it a double stage?
If you are on a budget and the look of the co2 system is not a top priority, I might show you something that will work and work well from the evil bay, but you must have the tools and handy hands, to put together the parts yourself.

BTW, the old victor brass regulator will look really good if you do a good work polish it.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

https://aquariumplants.com/ideal-needle-valve/

Retail replacement for the Fabco.. only better (It should be right.. )

Useable, not nearly as precise as the 52-1.. but a lot cheaper..
https://www.radwell.com/en-US/Buy/IDEAL/IDEAL/52-2-11



> Ideal valve 52(brass)/54(stainless steel)--2 series, Part number 52-2-*, 54-2-*
> Orifice: 0.0625"
> Cv: 0.082 (at 20 turn, 22-24 turn full open)


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

Bettatail said:


> what is the model number of your victor regulator? is it a double stage?
> If you are on a budget and the look of the co2 system is not a top priority, I might show you something that will work and work well from the evil bay, but you must have the tools and handy hands, to put together the parts yourself.
> 
> BTW, the old victor brass regulator will look really good if you do a good work polish it.


 It has a Union Carbide made, ball-bearing indicator Cubic Foot per Hour flow meter with built in metering valve.

It's old enough that it looks like it was made in the 1950's, w/ green painted main body shell and brass metal face and rear dome/nut. Printed in raised lettering cast around the bezel of the front face, "VICTOR WELDING EQUIPMENT CO. SAN FRANCISCO CALIF"

I don't think it will polish up well as the biggest raw brass parts are the front bezel, "T" handle and rear acorn nut and it's got a lot of patina. I like this level of patina, it matches the use and scratches of the original green paint of the main body. This Argon TIG torch regulator is from a welder my father owned that I think he ended up with when mustered out of his job with Allied Petroleum in 1950, the welder looks like late 1940's tech.

Looks to me like a dual stage regulator. It must weigh at least 10 pounds if not more. It's pretty steam punk. Big ornate cast brass "T" handle for the pressure regulation. I'll try to get an image of it here.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

GrampsGrunge said:


> It has a Union Carbide made, ball-bearing indicator Cubic Foot per Hour flow meter with built in metering valve.
> 
> 
> It's old enough that it looks like it was made in the 1950's, w/ green painted main body shell and brass metal face and rear dome/nut. Printed in raised lettering cast around the bezel of the front face, "VICTOR WELDING EQUIPMENT CO. SAN FRANCISCO CALIF"
> ...



This one.. 
https://www.letgo.com/en-us/i/vinta...teampunk_f92b9958-17c8-4a59-afd2-312842f4e4be


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

may be a victor VTS450, let's wait for the picture.

the flow meter and the valve on it, will not be used, they can not handle single digit sccm flow rate well.

Bump:


jeffkrol said:


> This one..
> https://www.letgo.com/en-us/i/vinta...teampunk_f92b9958-17c8-4a59-afd2-312842f4e4be


that is really antique! look like a single stage to me though, I have never deal with it before, but the dome in the back looks like the alternated inlet port cover.

Bump:


flowerfishs said:


> The hpt160 is very rare. A custom dual output for you. after your modification, it would be look great. show some pictures.:laugh2:


never have luck to get a hpt160, is it exactly the same spec as sgt160, only the different regulator body material?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

See above not on evil bay.
H is high purity vs I assume standard.
Better cleaning I'm sure some different internals.


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## GrampsGrunge (Jun 18, 2012)

jeffkrol said:


> This one..
> https://www.letgo.com/en-us/i/vinta...teampunk_f92b9958-17c8-4a59-afd2-312842f4e4be



Pretty close, but the green paint ends at the brass bezel face and the "T" handle is an ornate casting with VICTOR cast on one side of the "T".


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

can't tell what is on its back, but as you said there is rear dome, then it is a victor VTS 450.

but lower pressure gauge worry me a little bit though, it is green, which indicates it was for oxygen/corrosive gas service, risk of potential defect/problem is high.

put on a cga 320 nipple and nut to test it first, if it works without problem, then you can get the rest of the components, polish/*ketchup* the brass, and build it.

if it has problem, it is easy to find repair kit for victor vts450, not expensive but that is another territory if you try to fix it...


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

GrampsGrunge said:


> It was on a TIG welder's Argon tank for years. I think this is high pressure regulator, the HP gauge goes up to 3000 psi.
> 
> 
> I'm going to leave it patina'd There's no point polishing it up, the paint is also patina'd. It's from my Father's collection of old tools that actually spent many accumulated months out in Oregon weather. These things got well used.
> ...


not the linked flowmeter, you need a flowmeter that can handle at least single digit SCCM flow rate. see my other thread you will find a right one.

BTW, do not post link of any evil bay item, it is against the TPT policy.


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

flowerfishs said:


> The hpt160 is very rare. A custom dual output for you. after your modification, it would be look great. show some pictures.:laugh2:


First 2 pics are actually from Flowerfishs when he was putting this together for me. The remaining pics I just collected. 

In my opinion, the current metering valves on the regulator, and the Porter metering valves on the flow meters are not nearly as precise as the ****** 21 Series metering valves. I will probably add my second ****** valve to the back of the 40g flowmeter at some point. 



As for the HPT160 - very much a rock solid unit. Once set at 20psi I very rarely have to make any adjustments to it regardless if the CO2 tank is new, or the tank pressure is barely over 100psi. 

Probably one of my better investments in this hobby.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Immortal1 said:


> First 2 pics are actually from Flowerfishs when he was putting this together for me. The remaining pics I just collected.
> 
> In my opinion, the current metering valves on the regulator, and the Porter metering valves on the flow meters are not nearly as precise as the ****** 21 Series metering valves. I will probably add my second ****** valve to the back of the 40g flowmeter at some point.
> 
> ...


The hpt160 look exactly the same as sgt160, and you have your equipment arranged really well, nice job.
I have a sgt160 built for three weeks now, but had some problem and need intense testing because of the design, it is with a flow meter, will show pictures later.
I will also find the co2 flow rate data for the Parker flowmeter at 20 psi, just give me some time.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Immortal1 said:


> First 2 pics are actually from Flowerfishs when he was putting this together for me. The remaining pics I just collected.
> 
> In my opinion, the current metering valves on the regulator, and the Porter metering valves on the flow meters are not nearly as precise as the ****** 21 Series metering valves. I will probably add my second ****** valve to the back of the 40g flowmeter at some point.
> 
> ...


The ****** 21 & 22 series is my favorite. Your modification looks very good.

Bump:


Bettatail said:


> The hpt160 look exactly the same as sgt160, and you have your equipment arranged really well, nice job.
> I have a sgt160 built for three weeks now, but had some problem and need intense testing because of the design, it is with a flow meter, will show pictures later.
> I will also find the co2 flow rate data for the Parker flowmeter at 20 psi, just give me some time.


hpt160 & SGT160 looks the same, just different material. I have owned both. very good regulator.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Found this box in front of my house.


















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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

GrampsGrunge said:


> Pretty close, but the green paint ends at the brass bezel face and the "T" handle is an ornate casting with VICTOR cast on one side of the "T".



Keep in mind there are parts that wear out..
This was out of my first Victor VTS high pressure seat.. Cracked..









New one.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> Found this box in front of my house.
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


let me have it, I can probably make it work, 



jeffkrol said:


> Keep in mind there are parts that wear out..
> This was out of my first Victor VTS high pressure seat.. Cracked..


right at the point, :thumbsup:
the new valve seat cost less than the whole valve seat assembly, a bag of ten pieces only $13.10


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

[STRIKE]Alan, I did a little bit more research about this ultraline 4400, but not be able to find any info. From the appearance of this reg, the chassis resemble a 9400 series, if it is true, the body structure of this regulator may be the same as a a 9400, but different internal valve springs because this regulator handle much lower input pressure. If the difference is only limited to the internal valve springs, you will probably have a good chance to get a low cost VCR version 9400 regulator for pick and pull, such as this one(evil bay key word: MATHESON ULTRA-LINE REGULATOR), then replace the both pressure gauges as well as the internal valve springs assembly.[/STRIKE]

add:
forget about my suggestion, a more close look, 4400 and 9400 regulator are not the same.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> Alan, I did a little bit more research about this ultraline 4400, but not be able to find any info. From the appearance of this reg, the chassis resemble a 9400 series, if it is true, the body structure of this regulator may be the same as a a 9400, but different internal valve springs because this regulator handle much lower input pressure. If the difference is only limited to the internal valve springs, you will probably have a good chance to get a low cost VCR version 9400 regulator for pick and pull, such as this one(evil bay key word: MATHESON ULTRA-LINE REGULATOR), then replace the both pressure gauges as well as the internal valve springs assembly.



I have been looking for tools to open these regs apart. I simple vise is not enough for the job. I built a few vcr 9400 in the past but hate using adapters. We need to come up with a way to tap these ss vcr ports. 


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

The sgt160 with flow meter
twin solenoids and flow controls
testing is finally done so I can show the pictures.


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

Nice setup Bettatail. That reg does look very familiar except for the fittings sticking up on the front and back. Clearly my reg has holes for the fittings, just not sure of their purpose. 
That double solenoid block is nice! Very jealous. 
So, the purpose of this setup is to evaluate flow thru the flowmeter using either the metering valve on the output or the input?


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Immortal1 said:


> Nice setup Bettatail. That reg does look very familiar except for the fittings sticking up on the front and back.



Pretty sure that is to capture and route any "outgassing" that occurs at each stage.









https://www.analyzedetectnetwork.com/manuals/r67iwoJ4WL.pdf


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

jeffkrol said:


> Pretty sure that is to capture and route any "outgassing" that occurs at each stage.


Jeff nails it, those are venting holes, for venting dangerous gas in case diaphragm leaks or punched, and normally at the end of venting line is the reaction container filled with neutralizing agent.



Immortal1 said:


> So, the purpose of this setup is to evaluate flow thru the flowmeter using either the metering valve on the output or the input?


I was lucky to find the Kip 316 stainless steel double solenoid manifold. clippard, numatics and bestwick also make multiple ports manifolds, but use aluminum and the outlet ports are 10-32.
I think Kip inc. is own by SMC now, I don't know if SMC keep the stainless steel, 1/8 npt ported manifold in production, this manifold can not be found on SMC official website.

You ask the right question, the outer most solenoid is the main to initialize the flow to the flow meter, and the flow rate is decided by the valve(outlet) on the flowmeter, this flow rate can be accurately monitored because the pressure in glass tube is known.
when the outer solenoid is off, the second/inner solenoid allow the flow past the swagelok s metering valve, flow rate can be monitored through flow meter but it is an "estimated" value, because the pressure in glass tube is not known, how much the flow rate to be decided depends on observation.

The purpose of such setup is to inject the co2 in short period of time to rise co2 concentration by 20ppm, through outer most solenoid and the valve on flowmeter, this is relative larger flow and can be done right before the light turns on. The second solenoid turn on while first solenoid is off, the co2 flow rate is small and by how much is decided by observation, this flow of co2 keeps on with the lights on, and replenish the decreasing co2 in the water so the concentration stay between 20-30 ppm.


----------



## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> Jeff nails it, those are venting holes, for venting dangerous gas in case diaphragm leaks or punched, and normally at the end of venting line is the reaction container filled with neutralizing agent.
> 
> 
> 
> ...




nice find dual solenoid manifold and it's a great ideal to build the system. :grin2: I throw a sgt160 in the trash few months ago. I should keep it and send it to you.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> I have been looking for tools to open these regs apart. I simple vise is not enough for the job. I built a few vcr 9400 in the past but hate using adapters. We need to come up with a way to tap these ss vcr ports.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I open a VCR regulator once, APtech equivalent model, could not put all the parts back after the springs pop every little pieces out of places, it was designed with such complicity to prevent leak down to the molecules level, and there is no diagram that I could follow...



flowerfishs said:


> nice find dual solenoid manifold and it's a great ideal to build the system. :grin2: I throw a sgt160 in the trash few months ago. I should keep it and send it to you.


I can open it, I actually open and fix the pictured SGT160, but some times to fix the regulators, need replacement internal parts, not all of them are available though.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

how this look?
a rare Victor miniature double stage regulator


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

Pretty slick looking!


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## rajdude (Apr 13, 2020)

Wait what??? Can you do the needle valve like that? :surprise: I mean input and output swapped?
I guess it does not matter.........I (wrongly) thought it did. Could have made mine much smaller! ha ha


Love how it looks! very nice! :grin2:





Bettatail said:


> how this look?
> a rare Victor miniature double stage regulator


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

the direction of flow not matter in this case, we know only the pressure differential and the size of the orifice decide the flow rate.
but swagelok put a flow direction indicator on these valves, because:
1. people will know the flow direction of the flow media in their equipment. 
2. the inner valve body is at the outlet side of the needle orifice, so this manufacture designated flow direction has less chance the debris get stuck inside a valve body. 

both of 1. and 2. are not in consideration in our co2 system, so reverse direction if need to.

not hold true for some other valves though, such as SMC AS1000 needle valve, due to its design, if reverse its flow direction, means different flow rate.

BTW, the system in the picture is no more, I broke the regulator yesterday when I did the testing, the chance to fix it, is slim.


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> BTW, the system in the picture is no more, I broke the regulator yesterday when I did the testing, the chance to fix it, is slim.


Oh nooooo! It was such a neat looking system!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Capsaicin_MFK said:


> Oh nooooo! It was such a neat looking system!


I fixed it today, but need more testing,


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

went through the test again, the silver bullet shape victor regulator is not working unless I can find the replacement parts..

anyway, build another similar one, I am sure it won't give me problem this time, look good?


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## dipan (Dec 3, 2006)

The Victor bullet shape looked more classic muscle car vintage while the Parker has a more modern feel. Nice work!


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Upgraded the regulator, and moved the bubble counter up towards the aquarium. I also cut out some tape and made my own vernier type handle.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

another accomplishment..


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Nice Triple triple 

Bubble counter on first output?


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## theusualsuspect (Oct 10, 2017)

I think I found where I need to be! So I have been out of the game for a long while and need a new co2 regulator to get my 125g tank up and running. All offerings on amazon ect. were not to my liking and i had a super basic single stage back in the day. With that being said i want to buy once and I am looking at dual stage reg's but of course im on a budget lol but been reading so much my heads spinning hahaha. 

so what i have been looking for is a concoa 400 series am i on the right track here? (352918733522)
Also like the flow meters and was looking in your other thread Bettatail and am totally confused lol mabe you guys could point me in the right direction?

thanks in advance guys!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

flowerfishs said:


> Nice Triple triple
> 
> Bubble counter on first output?


yes, I worked on it again, three bubble counters and swagelok metering valves, and one smc needle valve in the back.




















theusualsuspect said:


> I think I found where I need to be! So I have been out of the game for a long while and need a new co2 regulator to get my 125g tank up and running. All offerings on amazon ect. were not to my liking and i had a super basic single stage back in the day. With that being said i want to buy once and I am looking at dual stage reg's but of course im on a budget lol but been reading so much my heads spinning hahaha.
> 
> so what i have been looking for is a concoa 400 series am i on the right track here? (352918733522)
> Also like the flow meters and was looking in your other thread Bettatail and am totally confused lol mabe you guys could point me in the right direction?
> ...


This regulator looks good, it is concoa 412 and really good quality, it will shine if give it a good polish.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

new build
concoa 312 regulator and parker H2L block type metering valve, 
with retrofitted valve block to fit a clippard solenoid and one extra swagelok S series metering valve.


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## platipus (Jul 19, 2020)

Bettatail said:


> new build
> concoa 312 regulator and parker H2L block type metering valve,
> with retrofitted valve block to fit a clippard solenoid and one extra swagelok S series metering valve.





It's beautiful, but I may be a little biased on this one since it is heading my way....


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

feel sad it is gone your way, every system I made, I wanted to keep it...


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

a rare rebranded Victor, BOC BGT500 stainless steel regulator, a red handle.

two independent outputs with parker and swagelok metering valves, and numatics stainless steel miniature solenoids.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

nice build. is that a SGT500?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

yes, it is SGT500, under BOC it is BGT500.


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## Smellydeli (Jun 14, 2012)

Tested and ready! That flowmeter valve is a pain though. Even though it's a 10 turn valve, the float either drops or flies at the slightest touch. The solenoid o-ring was lost for awhile too :icon_roll


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## bigtrout (Sep 6, 2014)

Nice build with the flowmeter!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

@Smellydeli
nice co2 system!
need to find the co2 calibration data for the flowmeter, and I've been looking but don't have any luck so far, I will probably measure the co2 flow rate to get the calibration chart for this particular flow meter.


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## dipan (Dec 3, 2006)

Bettatail said:


> yes, I worked on it again, three bubble counters and swagelok metering valves, and one smc needle valve in the back.


This reg from Bettatail and protocol station was installed above a utility sink in fish room and works perfectly! I’m glad this will be fixed in place, easily adjusted, and out of harm’s way!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

a rare miniature double stage regulator from Victor, the HPT100.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)




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## bigtrout (Sep 6, 2014)

Heres my newly installed Concoa 315 that i won on evilbay for 30. New in the box and even has a cga320 from new.

I remote mounted my Matheson flowmeter


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

bigtrout said:


> Heres my newly installed Concoa 315 that i won on evilbay for 30. New in the box and even has a cga320 from new.
> 
> I remote mounted my Matheson flowmeter
> View attachment 903675


Concoa 315 regulators are rare and with 316L stainless steel diaphragms, and you got a new for $30, really good luck,


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## Prntblclndrs12 (Sep 15, 2020)

Amazing post, thanks for providing such a important information


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

This is my personal co2 system, I built it back in 2013, and it had been serving my planted tank until now, just renew its surface today and took some pictures.
I think this stainless steel regulator is one of the most expensive that we could find, almost $2000 price mark when new, I got it for $35...

Gauges were made in Germany, but this regulator was made in Napa, California.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> Concoa 315 regulators are rare and with 316L stainless steel diaphragms, and you got a new for $30, really good luck,



Max outlet pressure is 30psi.. from the model #.
Not to distract from the price/condition, and having the rare CGA already attached.


"field adjustable pressure limit to protect downstream equipment" also rare..
https://www.concoa.com/docs/catalog...egulators/ADC3010 AF 315 Series Regulator.pdf


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Jeff, if it is a 30psi max output, the part number should be 3152...., but I don't see the part number on bigtrout's 315, are you sure it is a max 30psi output model? or may be it is a 50 psi max output model, the low pressure gauge is 60 psi.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Bettatail said:


> Jeff, if it is a 30psi max output, the part number should be 3152...., but I don't see the part number on bigtrout's 315, are you sure it is a max 30psi output model? or may be it is a 50 psi max output model, the low pressure gauge is 60 psi.



According to the "sold" item on eek bay matching his. 
That guage also went up to 50psi-ish
If his had a hose barb out originally then the model is
*NEW Concoa Regulator 3152391 Dual Stage CP Brass CGA 320*
"Roberts Oxygen"
TOO rare of a combo to not be it..
Chrome plated brass
Let me check the spec sheet.

315(A)(B) (C) ect
A = 2: 0-30 PSIG(0-2 BAR)
B= 3: 0-4000 PSIG/0-275 BAR
C = 9: 1/4" hose barb
D = 1: Standard assembly(PSIG/kPa gauges)

303642493962

Many Victors, as you know add 2X max outlet gauges on the lp side.
Gauge markings are practically meaningless, especially with used items.

https://www.concoa.com/docs/catalog...egulators/ADC3010 AF 315 Series Regulator.pdf

Don't get me wrong, still a good find w/ a "possible" minor limitation. 
I love new or New Old Stock
Reason I decided to "snoop"..


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Jeff, I see, and I think you are right on the reg since you found the sold listing, just wait for bigtrout to confirm. 
It is extremely good deal though, a new 315 in the box, for $30.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Bettatail said:


> This is my personal co2 system, I built it back in 2013, and it had been serving my planted tank until now, just renew its surface today and took some pictures.
> I think this stainless steel regulator is one of the most expensive that we could find, almost $2000 price mark when new, I got it for $35...
> 
> Gauges were made in Germany, but this regulator was made in Napa, California.


Would you believe someone had me build one these with all new parts including that regulator from swagelok? I wish I still had the pics. Loved that green handle.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

oldpunk78 said:


> Would you believe someone had me build one these with all new parts including that regulator from swagelok? I wish I still had the pics. Loved that green handle.


It’s hard to believe. That cost thousands to build.

Bump: how about this aluminum gold handle? A build for a client.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

flowerfishs said:


> It’s hard to believe. That cost thousands to build.
> 
> Bump: how about this aluminum gold handle? A build for a client.


Those Parker IR’s are my fav. And yes, I thought the idea was nuts. It made me very nervous. There are people with money out there I guess.


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## bigtrout (Sep 6, 2014)

jeffkrol said:


> Bettatail said:
> 
> 
> > Jeff, if it is a 30psi max output, the part number should be 3152...., but I don't see the part number on bigtrout's 315, are you sure it is a max 30psi output model? or may be it is a 50 psi max output model, the low pressure gauge is 60 psi.
> ...



Yes, you are correct, its the 30psi model, and you picked the correct auction! I inject co2 for a 75gallon into a homemade Cerges reactor. I inject at 20psi because Matheson has a flow chart at 20psi for the 610 flowmeter tubes and my flowmeter is set with the valve on the outlet side. For my use its perfect!


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

oldpunk78 said:


> Would you believe someone had me build one these with all new parts including that regulator from swagelok? I wish I still had the pics. Loved that green handle.


Similar story here. There was a guy who wanted me to build him a complete ss reg. I didn't want him to spend too much so I suggested him to use steel fittings instead. He wasn't happy about it. 

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Manufacturing is returning, not a bad thing, but it is harder and harder to source the low cost parts to build high end industrial grade co2 systems, especially the complete stainless steel sets.

a piece of Parker 316L 1/8 npt elbow is about $50, distributor listing price...

I got it much lower than the original price, but not easy to find them at a fraction of the original cost now.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Evil Bay item number: 353177823872

Good double stage regulator, and it is for co2 with cga320, do not need to convert.


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> Evil Bay item number: 353177823872
> 
> Good double stage regulator, and it is for co2 with cga320, do not need to convert.


That’s a very good deal.


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## Aflac (Jan 19, 2005)

I thought I'd jump in on this thread as I just finished my first DIY regulator. 

I was a little impatient on the regulator but I got one that looks to be in great shape. Post body kit compliments of @Bettatail

I ended up buying some sleeving and shrink wrapping the power cord to give it a bit more finished look. I'm really happy with how it turned out.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

build a new one with the Concoa 432 regulator,


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Aflac said:


> I thought I'd jump in on this thread as I just finished my first DIY regulator.
> 
> I was a little impatient on the regulator but I got one that looks to be in great shape. Post body kit compliments of @Bettatail
> 
> I ended up buying some sleeving and shrink wrapping the power cord to give it a bit more finished look. I'm really happy with how it turned out.



You should shrink wrap the connectors too to keep the water out. I’m setting up a new tank with a new reg. Probably going to start building soon.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Testing on this concoa 432 fail, there is a leak on the first stage, need to open it and replace the diaphragm washer......












The APtech looks good, tested and works well, I think it is the best or most expensive stainless steel double stage that I could find.
burkert 2822 solenoid only consumes 0.5 watt with 12V DC power input.


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## Capsaicin_MFK (Nov 15, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> The APtech looks good, tested and works well, I think it is the best or most expensive stainless steel double stage that I could find.
> burkert 2822 solenoid only consumes 0.5 watt with 12V DC power input.


Those Swagelok gauges! :surprise:


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## flowerfishs (May 6, 2009)

Bettatail said:


> Testing on this concoa 432 fail, there is a leak on the first stage, need to open it and replace the diaphragm washer......
> 
> 
> 
> ...


The APtech is definitely the best build ever.


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## LeeR11 (Feb 4, 2021)

concoa 315, Burkett 6011, swagelok ss-ss4 and the new project a ss apTech ak17 some cool glycol filled made in Canada gauges


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

LeeR11 said:


> View attachment 1025585
> View attachment 1025584
> concoa 315, Burkett 6011, swagelok ss-ss4 and the new project a ss apTech ak17 some cool glycol filled made in Canada gauges


I like your concoa 315, it is neat!
and the APTech, I think you are the 5th person that I know own this regulator for their aquarium co2 system, 
let me know if you are still searching for rest of the matched high grade parts to build this APtech, it is harder to find good valves and solenoids now on the evil bay, but there always diamonds bury in the sand.

and the planted tank behind the APtech, beautiful... 
I want to put back schooling congo tetras in my tank, again...


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## LeeR11 (Feb 4, 2021)

Bettatail said:


> I like your concoa 315, it is neat!
> and the APTech, I think you are the 5th person that I know own this regulator for their aquarium co2 system,
> let me know if you are still searching for rest of the matched high grade parts to build this APtech, it is harder to find good valves and solenoids now on the evil bay, but there always diamonds bury in the sand.
> 
> ...


Thanks! The concoa is a odd one. I saw someone else had one a few pages back, re branded the same aswell. 

Searching evil bay for a deal is half the fun I think! I have a ****** SS-22RF4 on the way, looked like a good deal. Got it for $150 shipped, all the other ones I saw where $250 to $400 (Canadian) not much is a good deal in Canada, shippings a killer.

Not sure what to do for a solenoid. I was thinking a asco 411 but I can't find a source for the clippard manifold. I'd like to see what sorta diamonds you can dig up!

Congos are really cool fish! You should definitely get another school. I some how only got 1 male out of the 8 I ordered  bit of a let down.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

I found a supplier near my house. They literally have thousands of parts. I got this Matheson 3810 for a really good price.










Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## ReeferRusso (Dec 29, 2018)

AlanLe said:


> I found a supplier near my house. They literally have thousands of parts. I got this Matheson 3810 for a really price.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That's a beauty!


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## CommonCurt (May 21, 2020)

AlanLe said:


> I found a supplier near my house. They literally have thousands of parts. I got this Matheson 3810 for a really price.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yeah, that looks nice.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

AlanLe said:


> I found a supplier near my house. They literally have thousands of parts. I got this Matheson 3810 for a really good price.


Put some time the good parts on it, it will definitely be a really good looking and functional co2 system!


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## EmotionalFescue (Jun 24, 2020)

Hi all. I have one GLA and one CO2art regulator on two separate tanks. I have recently replaced the valves with Key flowmeters and have just ordered some Clippard solenoids to replace the cheapo originals. Seems like I'm slowly replacing every bit of these things and i feel like the regulators themselves will be too before too long. Any advice on what to look out for or avoid on used regulators?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

EmotionalFescue said:


> Hi all. I have one GLA and one CO2art regulator on two separate tanks. I have recently replaced the valves with Key flowmeters and have just ordered some Clippard solenoids to replace the cheapo originals. Seems like I'm slowly replacing every bit of these things and i feel like the regulators themselves will be too before too long. Any advice on what to look out for or avoid on used regulators?


do not rush, it takes time to know and find the good parts, and to draw a plan for the DIY double stage system.

To identify the evil bay sellers as liquidators is first step, second is to check if the regulator are pulled from working environment/condition or new (old stock shelf store) item. If the price is good and the regs are the right one, you can go for it.

the regulators with max output range from 30-100 psi are good, and if lower than 30 psi max output range, the reg still be ok for co2 reactor. The regulators with 150psi to 250 psi max output, are ok to choose only if you can find a rare solenoid that is low power consumption and high MOPD(withholding pressure).


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## EmotionalFescue (Jun 24, 2020)

Thanks, @Bettatail!

I'm now second guessing my solenoid choice... should I have paid more attention to the flow rate? I got the ET-2M-12 with the default flow rate of 17l/min @100psi. Do you think that will be okay?

Sorry for the 20 questions!


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## Immortal1 (Feb 18, 2015)

EmotionalFescue said:


> Thanks, @Bettatail!
> 
> I'm now second guessing my solenoid choice... should I have paid more attention to the flow rate? I got the ET-2M-12 with the default flow rate of 17l/min @100psi. Do you think that will be okay?
> 
> Sorry for the 20 questions!


1 liter = 1,000 cubic centimeters, so 17l/min would be 17,000 cc/min. I am dosing around 35-40 standard cubic centimeters per minute into my 75g tank at 20psi.
Thinking you will be ok


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## EmotionalFescue (Jun 24, 2020)

Ha! Yes, I guess I was looking to confirm my thinking that the only important consideration was that the solenoid flow not be limiting for my needs.

Sounds like that was the right way to think about it.

Thanks for the confirmation!

#n00bQs


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Finally, this concoa 432 stainless steel co2 system will be in good use, I had it open a couple days ago and fix the first stage leak.
heavy duty bench vise and a 5 foot long metal pipe, I got it open....


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## ReeferRusso (Dec 29, 2018)

Bettatail said:


> Finally, this concoa 432 stainless steel co2 system will be in good use, I had it open a couple days ago and fix the first stage leak.
> heavy duty bench vise and a 5 foot long metal pipe, I got it open....


I, for one, am disappointed you couldn't open it with a 4 foot metal pipe! Lol


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

it is been a while that I stop making custom co2 systems, and recently I look into making videography a little bit after my Canon 7D ii gave me error 20, now wondering if I can make a good detail instruction video on how to DIY custom co2 system.


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## EmotionalFescue (Jun 24, 2020)

Bettatail said:


> it is been a while that I stop making custom co2 systems, and recently I look into making videography a little bit after my Canon 7D ii gave me error 20, now wondering if I can make a good detail instruction video on how to DIY custom co2 system.


I'm sure a lot of people would find it very helpful!


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## Thenoob (Jan 15, 2014)

Bettatail said:


> it is been a while that I stop making custom co2 systems, and recently I look into making videography a little bit after my Canon 7D ii gave me error 20, now wondering if I can make a good detail instruction video on how to DIY custom co2 system.


I think that would be amazingly helpful for many people. I built my co2 system 6+ years ago with your advice (and post body kit) and I would have been clueless without it.

Sent from my SM-G970U1 using Tapatalk


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

still don't know how to make a video, but make another victor SGT160 stainless steel system instead.


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## Smellydeli (Jun 14, 2012)

I've long wondered after seeing it in other builds, what is that manifold, is it custom? I haven't seen it in Clippard's catalog. Seems like a female tube compression thread. And another tube thread to to male NPT?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

you are correct, I poked a hole on the manifold and made a custom port. 
the manifold is 15490-2


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

There is a Victor VTS 253 double stage diaphragm reg on evil bay atm, good luck
evil bay #
255400240267


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Bettatail said:


> There is a Victor VTS 253 double stage diaphragm reg on evil bay atm, good luck
> evil bay #
> 255400240267


bought it. I am going to post in few minutes with pictures of what I have so far to build a co2 regulator for my 180 tank with a reactor. I would love feed back on good, bad and your suggestions. 

mark


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Here are some pics. I have the Harris 425-125 cga-E4 regulator, the porter flow meter, a cheapy fleabay rig, and an unknown regulator. I also have what appears to be an asco solenoid valve model 8256b045 svyz 07.
I know I am going to use the porter flow meter. Opinions on the asco valve or recommendations for another valve? and then of course, opinions on the harris vs the victor vts 253 I just bought. 
Please help. All opinions and thoughts would be welcome.
Thanks,
Mark


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Found the asco valve specs 
7/64 orifice size, .19 cv flow factor


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

the ASCO solenoid is 6.3watts? it has bigger orifice for water, use for low flow co2 it will become really hot.
it is better to use the Wyin solenoid if you plan to get another solenoid later, I think the Wyin is somewhere between 4-5 watts power consumption, lower than the ASCO.

let me dig the parts box for a little bit to see what I can come up with a good look style co2 system, for your VTS 253 and the porter flow meter, then you can search for the exact fittings to build it.

BTW, congratulation on the high precision flow meter, and what number on the HR metering valve cap? if the sticker is off not showing any number, check the valve hex shoulder, there should be a number on the opposite side of "BB".

check the below video, you can see the precision of the flow meter, but the valve in the video is a low flow needle valve not a high precision HR cartridge metering valve.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

check your picture one more time, I see the number, it is a series 2 HR cartridge valve, really good precision, a nice combination with the B-125-6 tube flow meter.


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Yep, Number 2. Emotional Fescue helped me find that one on flea bay.

Double extra thanks to him

EDIT: it is better to use the Wyin solenoid ............ What is the Wyin solenoid? I'll google it too.
mark


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

the blue solenoid in your picture, it is Wyin brand,


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

Is this your new co2 system? 



























I had several of these VTS 253 regulator, they are all gone, and this one in the picture is a broken returned, not yet fix. I dry fit all the parts and take picture to see the best way to arrange the post body. If you like this style, you can start looking for fittings in the list below.
1/4 male npt to 1/8 male npt hex adapter
45 degree 1/8 male/female npt elbow
(solenoid, burkert 6011)
90 degree 1/8 male/male npt elbow
(Porter flow meter)
1/8 male npt to 1/4 OD hose push/pull quick connector










about the valve position on the flow meter, 
valve on top(outlet of the flow meter):
if you use a diffuser or any method to inject co2 with a back pressure higher than 5 psi.
--set the output pressure of the regulator at certain pressure, and follow the co2 flow data sheet at this pressure to adjust the flow meter.

valve below(inlet of the flowmeter):
if you use a reactor or any method to inject co2 with a back pressure lower than 5 psi.
-- set the output pressure of the regulator at any proper pressure, follow the co2 flow data sheet at atmosphere pressure(0 psi, or 14.7psia) to adjust the flow meter.


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Yep. That is what my new regulator looks like!
I already have all of the brass fitting except for the 45 elbow. I do need to locate the solenoid valve.
I sent you a pm. 
Thanks a gain, the help is appreciated.
Mark


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## EmotionalFescue (Jun 24, 2020)

jimminycrickets said:


> Yep, Number 2. Emotional Fescue helped me find that one on flea bay.
> 
> Double extra thanks to him


I didn't realize from the listing that this meter had a #2 valve on it - what a score!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

EmotionalFescue said:


> I didn't realize from the listing that this meter had a #2 valve on it - what a score!


next time you see something like this on evil bay, let me know too. 

Just kidding, I've already own a full line of high precision flow meters and valves, had to get them to try if they work before I show the result to others, ... have more of the proven useless parts though, ...


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## EmotionalFescue (Jun 24, 2020)

Bettatail said:


> next time you see something like this on evil bay, let me know too.


Ha! I would happily do that Just as long as you let me know if you run across any low number key instruments cartridge valves 😉


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

here is a picture of my finished co2 regulator and flow meter. Next to it is my version of a griggs reactor.
I do need some help though. I turned this on and all was well for about 15 minutes. Then, the overflow safety release vent opened and blew out a ton of co2. Is this a bad safety valve? Problem with the regulator? Can I just remove the safety valve and replace it with a 1/4" mpt plug? 

ANy help available would be appreciatee.
Mark


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jimminycrickets said:


> here is a picture of my finished co2 regulator and flow meter. Next to it is my version of a griggs reactor.
> I do need some help though. I turned this on and all was well for about 15 minutes. Then, the overflow safety release vent opened and blew out a ton of co2. Is this a bad safety valve? Problem with the regulator? Can I just remove the safety valve and replace it with a 1/4" mpt plug?
> 
> ANy help available would be appreciatee.
> ...


Safety valve or high pressure seat is shot or stuck open by dirt.
Plugging the safety valve port is not recommended.

What does the hp gauge say when you close the co2 tank valve, solenoid off or lp backed off?


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## RodgerCPT (11 mo ago)

jeffkrol said:


> Safety valve or high pressure seat is shot or stuck open by dirt.
> Plugging the safety valve port is not recommended.


Totally agree, Never plug the safety valve port.


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Okay,
I found this with a quick google search.





WeldingSupply 0600-0014 $20.52


Secure on-line welding supplies 0600-0014 $20.52




weldingsupply.com





this looks like what I have. I'll see if I can track one down.
thanks
Mark


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

mark, do you have the tools to open this regulator?
more than likely is not the relief valve failure, it is the first stage valve failure.

I have the replacement Buna-N valve seat, check you pm.

Add:
instead of making an independent new thread, I decide to post the pictures here to show how to fix Victor regulators, because the low cost high quality industrial parts are difficult to find and there are less people DIY their own co2 system nowadays.

*Here is the simple instruction to replace valve seat.
This instruction work for Victor VTS/HPT 250, 450, 470, 270 series regulators. 

Victor HPT 272 regulator on bench vise*









*Tape the Jaw to avoid scratch.*









*Second stage chamber and valve seat assembly *









*Valve seat assembly, Nylon washer*









*valve seat assembly*









*valve seat assembly, new Buna-N valve seat(black), harden and cracked old valve seat not sure what material(red)*









*Buna-N valve seat inplace.*









*Put everything back, 8Lb torque, now turn around the regulator to replace the back side first stage valve seat, leave the dome cap screw to avoid changing the preset 1st stage output pressure.*









no more picture, for 1st stage valve seat replacement, repeat the pictures above or use your imagination.


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

jeffkrol said:


> Safety valve or high pressure seat is shot or stuck open by dirt.
> Plugging the safety valve port is not recommended.
> 
> What does the hp gauge say when you close the co2 tank valve, solenoid off or lp backed off?


the hp gauge drops to zero immediately



Bettatail said:


> mark, do you have the tools to open this regulator?
> more than likely is not the relief valve failure, it is the first stage valve failure.
> 
> I have the replacement Buna-N valve seat, check you pm.
> ...


thank you again.
That reddish/brownish valve seat, the original, is most likely viton. Just my guess anyways.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jimminycrickets said:


> the hp gauge drops to zero immediately


You should be able to " trap"
about 200-300 psi ( level below to the setpoint of the safety valve) the first stage with the
output off.... charge/ blow... shut off main valve.

If you can't hold any pressure in the 1st stage seems to point to the safety valve.
Should reseat and stop loss.
Though shouldn't have "unseated" the safety in the first place.

When the hp seat blew in my Victor VTS this is how I could run it.. I was only " dribbling" CO2 though so the volume in the 1st stage gave me some output.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jimminycrickets said:


> Just an FYI,
> 
> 
> I am tempted to make an offer.................


I can' t dind any documents as to the max output pressure or safety valve specs.

Safety valves are cheap.


A brief search and there are more co2 ready than I' ve ever seen
Even new ones.
55850-480 - VWR Multistage Gas Regulators with Neoprene Diaphragms, Carbon Dioxide 60 psig - Each: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

A side note Fisher Scientific should be called Pirates are Us.


I can' t find any documents as to the max output pressure or safety valve specs.

Safety valves are cheap.


A brief search and there are more co2 ready regulators than I' ve ever seen.
Even new ones.
55850-480 - VWR Multistage Gas Regulators with Neoprene Diaphragms, Carbon Dioxide 60 psig - Each: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

A side note Fisher Scientific should be called Pirates are Us.
[/QUOTE]


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

jeffkrol said:


> I can' t dind any documents as to the max output pressure or safety valve specs.
> 
> Safety valves are cheap.
> https://www.amazon.com/Brass-Safety-Relief-American-COMPRESSORS/dp/B082XKH2L3/ref=asc_df_B082XKH2L3/
> ...


Yeah, I looked too and couldn't find any specs on the safety valve. I do know when the regulator is charged, I have about 600psi. The safety valve would need to be able to handle that for sure. I didn't find anything that looked like it would work.

I opened the regulator and took look inside. I found the relief valve was marked 300(assuming 300lb). IT had three small pieces of red viton rubber chunks preventing it from closing. I checked the valve seat, which also the red color, and did not see a thing wrong. However, the red chunks had to come from somewhere so I am assuming it is bad.
I was able to repair the relief valve so I just need to find that valve seat.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

if the red valve seat is Viton, Victor use viton valve seat in all their general service gas regulators, because the victor regulators for co2 have the same red valve seats.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jimminycrickets said:


> I opened the regulator and took look inside. I found the relief valve was marked 300(assuming 300lb). IT had three small pieces of red viton rubber chunks preventing it from closing. I checked the valve seat, which also the red color, and did not see a thing wrong. However, the red chunks had to come from somewhere so I am assuming it is bad.
> I was able to repair the relief valve so I just need to find that valve seat.


Yea that sort of was my suspicion..
Fisher rebrands so the company "could" be anyone from Chinese to US manuf. depending on model and year I suppose.
Don't know if it is "diagnostic" but older Victors had lp gauges 2x the actual max. delivery pressure.


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Hey, Has anyone considered using one of these motorized ball valves rather than the standard solenoid valves?








U.S. Solid Motorized Ball Valve- 1/4” Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24 V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return, Normally Open


U.S. Solid




ussolid.com





What do you folks think?

Edit: This valve uses PTFE(teflon) in its construction. I looked it up. Teflon and CO2 have excellent compatibility.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

wait, is it for fish pond? 😂


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

You could use it for a fish pond if you wanted and needed a valve like this. I am going to order one. 
Here is what I see:
1. Stainless construction
2. PTFE or teflon used in valve - very compatible with co2
3. uses almost no energy, only really uses energy for about 8 seconds twice a day
4. it will never get hot, it should last for many, many years
5. It cost about $42 and will never have to be replaced
6. 1/4" npt, can be used with minor adaptation on the regulators and flow meters we use.
7. uses 120vac, no adapter/ power supply needed. Wire on a standard 120v plug and you are ready to go

I'll report back after I get mine and hook it up. This will likely be in the next two weeks


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## jimminycrickets (11 mo ago)

Well the two I posted were both 2 wire. One is dc volts and normally open, the other is 120acv and normally closed. Did the links take you to the 5 wire versions?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

I used to think about pneumatic actuator too, but gave up the idea,...
miniature solenoids are more practical because of frequent on/off operation and low flow.

it is good to try though,


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

jimminycrickets said:


> Well the two I posted were both 2 wire. One is dc volts and normally open, the other is 120acv and normally closed. Did the links take you to the 5 wire versions?


Well didn't really look very closely.. Just scrolled models till I found a 1/4npt DC one. Just so happened to be 5 wire..
Just saw this. .I'm sure a 2 wire 1/4 is there somewhere..
Your one link took me to the AC one.
Don't sweat it.
*



U.S. Solid 1/2" NPT Motorized Ball Valve 9/12/24V DC 2-Wire SS304

Click to expand...

*


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