# Cheap and efficient filter solution



## Hoppy

That looks good to me. I use a little pump to get water flow in the tank and to run a CO2 mist, but the problem I run into is blockage of the inlet grill by debris, snails and leaves, plus it keeps pulling off the glass where the suction cups are trying to hold it. It ends up spraying the outlet straight down to the substrate.

I like my little Fluval filter, but keeping the inlet tube free of debris and snails so it isn't being blocked has been a problem. This seems to solve all of those problems at one time, plus clearing more space under my tank, and avoiding a failure that would syphon all of the water out.

What filter sponge do you use, and is it at all LFS places? Do you keep washing it and reusing it or is it a disposable thing?


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## Wasserpest

Thanks for the feedback Hoppy. Here is where you can buy that sponge.

It is definitely not the disposable kind. You can use that for years. I have Filstar foampads for 3 years and just recently started to swap them with new ones. (When I wrote: <<filters for several weeks>> I meant: before you need to give it a good squeeze!)

Of course the little pumps with inlet screen will not work for this, you need one that has an inlet which can connect to a piece of pipe.


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## tazcrash69

Wasser, looks like a nice solution to a lot of small tank filter problems, and of course it's scalable for bigger tanks (add another).

I have a bit of a question about the CO2, How many BPS are you running, and are you getting a lot of CO2 mist around the tank?


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## Wasserpest

I think this is even good for bigger tanks. It is easier to hide for sure! The trick is to find a Powerhead that you can turn around. They are made to suck from their bottoms (to be used for UGF's) so in some the impeller will make a racket if you turn them upside down.

BPS is not a real good number to compare to, since it depends on the size of the bubbles my BPS number is really meaningless to you. I run pressurized in 3 tanks, the 100 gets 2 bps, the 36 about 0.5 bps, and the 10 a little less, maybe 0.33333 bps. However, that is done with my DIY bubble counters. All 3 tanks together use about 2 bps using a Milwaukee bubble counter.

So anyway... The powerhead sits in the bottom corner, and blows fine CO2 bubbles towards the front. They raise up slowly to the surface. Thing is, in the morning, when there is no O2 saturation, you don't see much of the bubbles since they dissolve quickly. Later in the day, O2 saturation leads to some gas exchange and the bubbles drift to the surface, presumably as O2.

Like I said, this method works very well for fully dissolving and evenly distributing CO2 throughout the tank.


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## BlueRam

The filter works:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/241504-post2.html

As I was trying to build a Wasser-Mattenfilter when I ran out of time and tossed the powerhead in upside down with a sponge. It looks like the circular sponge solves the problem of food collecting where the angels can't get to it.


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## JenThePlantGeek

Wasserpest - I recently picked up a foam block with an inlet like this at a going out of business sale. I've been thinking about doing this exact same thing! I doubt I'll actually replace my Eheim, but the extra water movement and added filtration will be a plus!


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## Wasserpest

BlueRam said:


> As I was trying to build a Wasser-Mattenfilter when I ran out of time and tossed the powerhead in upside down with a sponge.


Hehe... imagine that :icon_lol: After fooling around with the Mattenfilter I now concluded that this is a better solution.

Of course, an internal filter with a sponge is nothing really new... it's just that sometimes we forget that "simple is beautiful". :icon_wink


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## BlueRam

The exposed sponge is much easier to clean than the full mattenfilter but it is still visible equipment and does not hide the heater (which the angels lay on) so it is not the ideal solution but it works. I also have a powerhead mounted normal with a sponge in my 20 long. I guess I will have to call it the reverse-Wasserfilter :hihi: 

Anyways, the documentation on Wasser-wear is always first rate.



Wasserpest said:


> Hehe... imagine that :icon_lol: After fooling around with the Mattenfilter I now concluded that this is a better solution.
> 
> Of course, an internal filter with a sponge is nothing really new... it's just that sometimes we forget that "simple is beautiful". :icon_wink


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## Wasserpest

The big advantage over the WasserMattenFilter :hihi: is that you don't have to worry about bypass. Stick the sponge over the strainer, and it is pretty much waterproof :wink:

While it doesn't hide the heater, you can probably squeeze the heater into the corner behind it, and all the water going through the sponge should prevent temp gradients.


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## Hoppy

Yesterday I bought a Maxijet 600, and a Cascade biosponge, which is big enough to make two sponges for the powerhead. I cut small pieces to plug the hole in the end - the Cascade sponge has a hole down the middle. I poked the CO2 line thru the sponge plug and into the plastic grid thingee that is made for sponge filters and comes with the Maxijet. Today I replaced my Fluval 104 and the minijet pump I was using. So far it works pretty good, but I wonder if the CO2 bubbles are actually sucked back down into the impeller. I'll keep watching it before I decide it is working well. Very nice idea though - no more spraybar, no more filter inlet tube, no more blockage of filter inlet or minijet inlet. And, I have to look hard to see it in the tank.


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## Wasserpest

That's great Hoppy! You should hear if the CO2 thing works by the faint noise of bubbles being smashed to mist in the impeller. I like the audible feedback... Once or twice the silence was an indicator that something didn't work right in my tanks (Plus if there is some serious overdosing I would hear that too!).

Did you route the CO2 line through the sponge? I avoided that because of maintenance concerns, didn't want to have to take the whole apparatus out of the water you clean the sponge.

How does the MaxiJet work when turned on its head? I had a MaxiJet 600 (I think it was a 600) a while ago and I returned it because it vibrated and was very loud. Might have just been the one I got.


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## Hoppy

Wasserpest said:


> That's great Hoppy! You should hear if the CO2 thing works by the faint noise of bubbles being smashed to mist in the impeller. I like the audible feedback... Once or twice the silence was an indicator that something didn't work right in my tanks (Plus if there is some serious overdosing I would hear that too!).
> 
> Did you route the CO2 line through the sponge? I avoided that because of maintenance concerns, didn't want to have to take the whole apparatus out of the water you clean the sponge.
> 
> How does the MaxiJet work when turned on its head? I had a MaxiJet 600 (I think it was a 600) a while ago and I returned it because it vibrated and was very loud. Might have just been the one I got.


Somehow I neglected to answer this comment. So, better late than never.
My maxijet works great upside down, no noise difference from rightside up. I, too, use the bubble chopping noise to regulate my CO2, and right now I have the bubble rate so high the chopping is almost continuous, but the mist effect is awesome - major pearling for most of the day. The Maxijet has no other way that I could find to introduce the CO2, so I do pass it thru the sponge - down thru the top, where I plugged the hole in the center of the sponge with a piece of sponge. To clean it I just pull off the sponge, with the CO2 line and the sponge support grid. Then I pull out the CO2 line and rinse the sponge, squeezing it a few time to get more of the mulm out. Reinstalling it wasn't a problem. Lately, my cherry shrimp have presented me with many additions to their family, so the sponge tends to be the dining table for them. This has been a great idea for me, and I really appreciate how well you sold it to me!


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## capricorn77

OK, please don't be mad, but I'm trying to figure out what the difference of this unique filter is compared to most internal filters like a fluval plus or eheim aquaball?


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## Hoppy

The differences for me are:
It is cheap - under $30,
It provides very good water circulation,
It is a good way to get CO2 mist circulated in the tank,
Maintenance is a breeze,
No worries about plugging up,
It is very effective as a filter.


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## capricorn77

OK, fair enough. 
But I was looking on big al's and saw a similar type of filter for only $17.99. Pretty good price no? 
Here's the product: Marineland Powerhead 660 R


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## jgc

Biggest difference I can see is scale. I have about 100 sq inches of surface area for my matten filter. The premade one has a lot less surface area for biofiltration (not to mention the flow rate is probably too high for the amount of surface area for an efficent biofilter)


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## Hoppy

capricorn77 said:


> OK, fair enough.
> But I was looking on big al's and saw a similar type of filter for only $17.99. Pretty good price no?
> Here's the product: Marineland Powerhead 660 R


Good price, but will the unit work upside down, so removing and cleaning the sponge is easy? Some powerhead pumps don't work well upside down. Also, not all powerheads appreciate bubbles of CO2 going thru them - I am fortunate that the Maxijet doesn't seem to mind them. If this one has a convenient place to introduce CO2, without running the tube thru the sponge, that is a plus too.

I don't recomend that everyone use this type of filter, but for me it has been ideal.


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## Wasserpest

capricorn77 said:


> OK, please don't be mad, but I'm trying to figure out what the difference of this unique filter is compared to most internal filters like a fluval plus or eheim aquaball?


Like I said earlier, an internal filter with a sponge is nothing new. This is just a slightly simplified, modified version, flexible because you get to choose pump power and flow and what kind and size of sponge you prefer.

I have looked closely a couple of times at the Fluval you linked to, and what I don't like about it is that the foam pad is skinny and will clog up quickly and need frequent maintenance. Also, I think there might be a bypass issue. Also, while it isn't huge, it will definitely be highly visible compared to a little pump with a sponge sitting in a bottom corner of the tank, hidden by plants.

The Eheims are a little more pricy, and the green ball isn't everyones favorite tank decoration. The model you linked to is for a 16gal tank, so a little on the weak side maybe.

I have that filter running on my understocked 36gal for about 1/2 year, clean it every 2 months or so, and I am amazed how much stuff collects in the sponge and how simple it is just to pull it out and then stick it back on.

DIY isn't for everyone... Just want to share what works for me, even if there are ready-made solutions out there.


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## RuslanJamil

Wasserpest, could you post photos of your cheap filter again? All I get are broken links...

Thanks.


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## p3purr

RuslanJamil said:


> Wasserpest, could you post photos of your cheap filter again? All I get are broken links...
> 
> Thanks.




I second that! Would love to see it! :smile:


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## Wasserpest

Sorry guys, all the Planted Tank hosted pictures disappeared, I looked at my harddrive and couldn't find it right away. I'll keep looking and re-post them if I find it.

Basically it was just a powerhead, turned upside down, with a sponge stuck to the inlet. I used one of these sponges, cut them into quarters (like a cake), cut a slit in the center and stuck them on the powerhead, using an inlet strainer to stabilize that thing.

The AC30 powerhead and the sponge is still the only filtration on my 36 gal tank, and while I have been considering to replace it with a canister filter to get some equipment out of the tank (filter and heater and CO2) it works extremely well. All I do is pull the sponge out every 4 weeks or so and give it a good squeeze in a bucket.


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## RuslanJamil

The main question I have is how does the CO2 get to the impeller?

Thanks.


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## Wasserpest

You could either route it through the sponge close to the inlet strainer, like described by Hoppy in post 13.

Or, if the pump body allows for it, drill a little hole and feed it through there.


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## BOTIA

*re powerheads impellors*

hey guys heck out the RiO 600rvt and 800rvt power heads. They have a special pivoting blade
impeller designed just for breaking up gas bubbles.
i have an 800 in my 75 powering a spray bar. It is very powerful and produces a very fine mist.
Cheers
Botia

"Durable, "one moving part" system.

Replaceable impeller assemblies, ensure an extended life.

Ideal for use with protein skimmers, or as sump returns for small tanks.

Suitable for both freshwater and marine aquariums.

RVT Indicates this pump is a venturi model designed for use with protein skimmers or overflows."


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## RuslanJamil

Thanks for the info, Botia... will try to look for it in this part of the world. I've bought a couple of Rios before but have not seen/noticed the RVTs.


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## Wasserpest

It is pretty neat if you can turn the pump upside down so the filter sponge sticks on top, easier to remove for cleaning, plus the water flow is stronger in the lower area of the tank (less surface agitation).

Not sure if the Rio RVT type pumps work that way... works both ways though.


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## Left C

Here's a pic of the Rio 600/800 RVT that BOTIA mentioned.









Tom Barr posted about using this powerhead for misting. Don't pay any attention to the pic of it that's linked from Marine Depot. It's an error. They recently upgraded their website and made a boo boo: http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/g...ussion/23918-using-co2-venturi-powerhead.html

You can also buy the RVT kit for $6.99 and it will fit the Rio 200, 400, 600 and 800 models. http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~TA4111.html

There's also a RVT Rejuvenating Venturi kit for the more powerful Rio 1700, 2100 and 2500HP Models. RVT Rejuvenating Venturi For Rio 1700, 2100, 2500HP. http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~TA4113.html


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## vidiots

I used to do something similar for my fry tank. I would take a large sheet of that Marineland "Rite-Size" blue bonded filter pad and glue it to an undergravel filter plate and have it powered by a small power head. This prevented the fry from getting sucked into a filter intake as the whole bottom of the tank was covered by filter foam. It was also extremely low maintenance. I never really made much of a plant tank out of it though except to throw some java moss in there which over time completely coated the filter foam and stuck to it really well. I did not add any CO2 to that tank, but suppose it could have been easily done by having a piece of tubing run under the UGF filter plate and up into the UGF lift tube. 

I couldn't find a link to the stuff I used but here is a link to another brand of the same stuff I used.
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~RB7311.html


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## Nano Nano

I can't seem to see the pics? Can you repost them or something?

Thanks.


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## tazcrash69

Wasserpest said:


> Sorry guys, all the Planted Tank hosted pictures disappeared, I looked at my harddrive and couldn't find it right away. I'll keep looking and re-post them if I find it.
> 
> Basically it was just a powerhead, turned upside down, with a sponge stuck to the inlet. I used one of these sponges, cut them into quarters (like a cake), cut a slit in the center and stuck them on the powerhead, using an inlet strainer to stabilize that thing.
> 
> The AC30 powerhead and the sponge is still the only filtration on my 36 gal tank, and while I have been considering to replace it with a canister filter to get some equipment out of the tank (filter and heater and CO2) it works extremely well. All I do is pull the sponge out every 4 weeks or so and give it a good squeeze in a bucket.


Sorry nano


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## Nano Nano

I guess I'm missing the point of turning it upside down? Is it really that hard to change if it's right side up?

Also, any reason you don't use a sponge like this: http://www.petsmart.com/product/ind...s=A-StorePrice-PET&parentPage=search&keepsr=1 instead of cutting the others down?


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## Wasserpest

Good questions...



Nano Nano said:


> I guess I'm missing the point of turning it upside down? Is it really that hard to change if it's right side up?


Nope, not really hard. But there is a couple of advantages of the upside down position  

1) You can just lay the pump on its head, flat, without the need for suction cups or rim hangers or whatever you would need to maintain its position.
2) I like flow on/from the bottom. With the sponge sticking underneath, you'd end up with the outflow somewhere in the middle or upper part of the tank.
3) With the pump sitting on the bottom, it is easy to hide with plants, rocks and such. Of course, can't block the outflow too much.
4) Really the main reason, getting the sponge clean without having to pull the whole thing out. I have one in the back corner of my 36gal corner tank, and it is fairly easy (with long arms) to pull the sponge up and stick it back on. If the sponge was underneath, I would have to pull the whole pump out, since it is hidden behind rocks and plants.

But, yeah, it works both ways.



Nano Nano said:


> Also, any reason you don't use a sponge like this: http://www.petsmart.com/product/ind...s=A-StorePrice-PET&parentPage=search&keepsr=1 instead of cutting the others down?


Yep, couple of reasons... the sponge I use is much bigger than that one, even cut in quarters it still has more volume than the one you linked to. For the same price, or a little less... I get four pieces rather than one.

When you cut them in quarters, you end up with sponges that fit perfectly in tank corners.

Also, the sponges I used have slightly finer pores, so they hold things back a little better than the 501 sponge.

But again, it would work as well.


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## Wasserpest

*Yeah! Thanks Kyle!!*

Pictures are back!


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## milkdud

I use MaxiJet 900's with Bigals black filter sponges. The sponge is fine pore BTW.

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsU.../cl1/aquariumsystemsmaxijet900powerhead230gph

http://www.bigalsonline.com/BigAlsUS/ctl3684/cp18430/si1383192/cl0/sponge3x5x1512

My method:
Preheat oven to 350.
I cut a chunk off the big sponge.
Put the chunk in a plastic bag.
Fill with water until the water just covers the sponge. 
Freeze it.
Drill a appropriate sized (yet smaller than strainer so it stays on) hole with a wood spade-shaped bit.
Let it thaw or run hot water over it. 
Turn off oven because you realize that this recipe was not for food.
Enjoy.


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## Wasserpest

Haha, nice recipe Milkdud. I never tried the freezing method (I guess the oven keeps you warm while handling the frozen sponge) :icon_cool I always use a sharp knife to cut sponges into pieces or holes into them.

I have this sort of filter working in two of my tanks... in the 36gal since I set it up in 2005 (Aquaclear 30 with sponge) and in my ignored 55gal in the garage (Aquaclear 50 with sponge). Every 3 to 4 weeks I turn off the pump, pull out the sponge, give it a good wringing and flushing, and back it goes.

Most recently, I have not been happy with the water circulation provided by my XP3's. So I am secretly trying to replace one of them (have two on my 100gal) with one of these internal sponge filters.

The pump will be a LoudOne(tm) 1200, with 3 quarters of a big sponge stuck on top of it. I'll post a picture soon. The pump provides WAY more circulation than the canister, with less wattage. Its impeller smashes up CO2 bubbles into fine, instantly dissolving mist. Placed in a back corner the visual impact will be small. The filter volume is a bit smaller than the canister, will need to see how that works out.

Intriguing for me is the better efficiency, and security of having in-tank filtration. Simple = beautiful?


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## ashappar

I've been using this method on a 15G desk tank at work that I set up last week.. I'm suprised at the nice mist the aquaclear produces. Great idea wasser!


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## Wasserpest

Glad you like it!

I was going to rig something up for my 100gal tank, but then I noticed all the stuff I had inline in my XP3 (CO2, tapwater in, drainage out) and figured I'll better keep it. Plus, an XP full of sponges is some serious filtration volume, nothing to sneeze at.

I want to rig up something like this combined with a DIY surface skimmer. Just some coarse sponges, and CO2 misting. If it works I will remove the external inline reactor from the XP, while it works well, the elbows and turns and twists reduce the flow a little bit.

We'll see how it works out...


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## macclellan

I have a planted 20g long with lots of lace rockwork. I want to switch over to a sponge filter, as I'm adding some snowball shrimp soon. *Wassy*, I like your design here, no shredded shrimp, gets rid of XP1 inlet and spraybar (which is just huge and unsightly) and I can say goodbye to my foresaken bubble ladder, and all filter and 'reactor' stuff hidden behind rockwork (except co2 tube and power cord, but both are black on black background). Also, given all the rockwork, the XP1 does really poorly at clearing the substrate; having a powerhead-filter on the bottom will do much better.

I've never used a sponge filter before, so I have some questions and wanted to pass this by ya'alluns (Tennessee-speak for you all) before putting shrimp in:

I've got a Maxi-Jet 400, which is 5w/106gph. Is that not enough flow? It has a directional attachment w/venturi hole for the co2 and is silent upside down. I also have a better inlet strainer than the one pictured.









Is this sponge big enough? It is a 3.5" diameter (with 1" center hole) x 2.125" sponge, I believe it was for a Lustar Hydrosponge and looks like this (minus the base and tube):









I have both of these laying around, which makes it a _very_ cheap filter so it would be great if they were sufficient. I also have some sponge laying around that I could cut if that one ain't big enough.

Lastly, how do you folks get sufficient surface movement with this setup? I do want the shrimp to have some oxygen, after all.

If that powerhead-sponge combo is too wimpy, I have a spare HOB laying around. That would solve the surface movement problem too, it would be one tube in the tank though.

Thanks for all and any help.


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## Wasserpest

macclellan said:


> I've got a Maxi-Jet 400, which is 5w/106gph. Is that not enough flow? It has a directional attachment w/venturi hole for the co2 and is silent upside down. I also have a better inlet strainer than the one pictured.


My best guess is that it would be enough flow if it is not too thickly planted. I am using the similar AC20 powerhead for my 36 Corner tank and it is working well... but yours being a longer tank might or might not reach the far end.

Personally I had a bad experience with the MJ400, noisy and vibrating, but could have just been a dud.



macclellan said:


> Is this sponge big enough? It is a 3.5" diameter (with 1" center hole) x 2.125" sponge, I believe it was for a Lustar Hydrosponge and looks like this (minus the base and tube):


If it is just for a shrimp tank I think most definitely sufficient. Compare to the net filter volume of your Filstar. Two Filstar sponges ~ one Hydrosponge?



macclellan said:


> Lastly, how do you folks get sufficient surface movement with this setup? I do want the shrimp to have some oxygen, after all.
> If that powerhead-sponge combo is too wimpy, I have a spare HOB laying around. That would solve the surface movement problem too, it would be one tube in the tank though.


Not sure on that one, in planted tanks the oxygen comes from plants, and the levels can be pretty high (saturation) without additional surface agitation, especially when you add CO2 and ferts to put your plant growth on steroids. Just don't overdo CO2 and ferts... as some shrimp might be sensitive. But if there is sufficient circulation in your tank I wouldn't worry about O2 too much.


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## A Hill

One of my favorite DIY threads on here.

I'm going to be making a corner HMF for my 55g and plan on having at least one or more pumps moving the water around. I want one to pump water out a tube to the far end of the tank and will have one of those vortex CO2 (diy with 4 bottles maybe) Any pump recommendations? 

I'll probably start a new thread when I get around to mapping it all out.

-Andrew


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## htn86

That's a good idea, but I think people use canister filter because it hides better than most filters, at least that was my reason for using a canister. I think having that big sponge sitting there in my planted tank is just unnatural and ugly, thought it might be a good filter.


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## Wasserpest

htn86 said:


> That's a good idea, but I think people use canister filter because it hides better than most filters, at least that was my reason for using a canister. I think having that big sponge sitting there in my planted tank is just unnatural and ugly, thought it might be a good filter.


That's correct, like I mentioned in the OP, the visual impact could be a disadvantage of this method.

On the other hand, it might be fairly easy to hide the pump and sponge behind something. That's what I did in my 36gal corner tank - it is sitting in the back corner, and rocks in front of it hide it completely. The outflow is routed between rocks towards the front. All you see is the power cable and the CO2 line... probably less visible than two plastic pipes going into the tank.


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## Ozymandias

I must say this is a rather tempting filter idea for me. I'm considering stetting up another tank once i get home during the summer and putting a batta in it.


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## LordMaximo

I like the MarineLnad 660 myself. I feed the Co2 into the air inlet tube for the power head, and I have added a down tube to the outlet to feed the flow to the bottom of the tank. Then the air and Co2 is distributed to the lower section of the tank, thus feeding the tank. There is also another method one could use, and that is the auto current switch that can be plumbed to two sections of the tank and fed from one source. It allows for an alternating pulsation to change the current flow. 
Nothing like adding some action for a tidal tank. And who says you can't just take a 3/8" piece of PVC and drill some directional holes into the length and just disperse at a couple levels down the side? Just some food for thought.

Maximo


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## macclellan

Thanks for the tips/reassurance guys. I seeded the filter and set it up this past weekend. So far so good.



htn86 said:


> I think people use canister filter because it hides better than most filters, at least that was my reason for using a canister.





Wasserpest said:


> On the other hand, it might be fairly easy to hide the pump and sponge behind something.


Yeah, I think it really depends on the tank/plants/hardscape in question. There was just no way of hiding the hugeness of the spraybar from an XP1 in a 20L tank. The sponge filter hides perfectly behind some rocks I have and is 'invisible' except for the power cord.


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## Scorpion-Stinger

*Filter and Powerheads*

This is what I did with my AC110 powerhead :icon_cool


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## daFrimpster

I have a stream tank that uses 3/4" pvc under the gravel so the three intakes are at one end of the stream and two powerheads at the other. I have sponges shoved onto the pvc sticking up out of the gravel. I have capped the pvc and drilled numerous small holes in it. This concoction and a whisper 3 hob are the only filtraiton on my 180g tank. My intention was water movement to mimick a stream for my darters but the filtration aspect was a nice bonus.


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## mszumins

Hello,
do you think I could replace the emperor power filter on my 45g and just go with the powerhead/sponge filter instead?
I was thinking Penguin 660R (170gph) or 1140 (300gph).

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752379


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## Wasserpest

I would go with the larger pump version for a tank of that size (300 gal/hr). With an appropriately sized sponge, this can be the only filter for any tank. I am not sure if that specific pump can be turned upside down, but that may not be an issue for you.


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## mszumins

what would you suggest as "appropriately sized sponge"?


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## Wasserpest

Depends on the bioload in the tank, how often you want to clean it, and how big of an eyesore you want in your tank.

I like these sponges, for example I bought a #10 which is pretty large, cut it into quarters, and I am using them for (crazy understocked) 36 and 55 gal tanks.


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## yznj99

Long time ago I built an "under gravel jets" system for a 50 gallon accoding to this article:
http://www.cichlidforum.com/articles/ug_jets.php

I was new to aquariums and I used the Rio 2100 pump from the article, as you may have guessed: noisy like hell, torrid water flow, the pump/sponge/PVC is also an gigantic eyesore. 

So I ditched the Rio pump and hooked the UGJ with my canister filter, it turned into an
"under substrate water return manifold" system
http://www.plantedtank.net/articles/DIY-UnderSubstrate-Water-Return-Manifold/12/

And you guessed the problem again, water flow dropped to almost stagnant. Eventually I returned to where I started: canister filter.

After reading Wasser's article, I think I may try something similar in the near future, small pump, undergravel PVC pipe, a couple of outflows, we'll see how it works out.


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## Augus

Wasserpest,
what pump would you suggest for 10 gal.
Again thanks for another great DIY great.


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## Wasserpest

I would probably look for a Hagen Aquaclear Powerhead. Maybe a 20...

Keep in mind that in smaller tanks this might look a bit overwhelming... maybe better to use an HOB filter if it is a display tank.


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## angel919

maxi jet 600
http://www.bigalsonline.com/StoreCa..._160__gph?&query=maxi+jet&queryType=0&offset=
like Tom said, really good output, probably the best you can find for that price range


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## lovingHDTV

angel919 said:


> maxi jet 600
> http://www.bigalsonline.com/StoreCa..._160__gph?&query=maxi+jet&queryType=0&offset=
> like Tom said, really good output, probably the best you can find for that price range


So has someone used this one upside down and it worked OK? If so I think I'll order it.

thanks,
dave


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## epicfish

You can basically mount it anyway you want.


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## Wasserpest

I had a MaxiJet 900 before and it was very noisy/vibrating. It was so bad that I actually returned it. Not sure if it was just a dud... And maybe the 600 is better.


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## Christine T

So after reading through this thread I had to try this, as I have an AC30 on my 30 gallon long tank. I currently had my DIY CO2 going into the powerhead, but the inlet kept getting clogged with snails, moss, plant goo etc. I never thought to cover it with a sponge, let along turning it upside down lol. IDK if I will leave this as the only filtration, but it sure keeps me from having to take it out every other day to pick debris out of it. 

I also found that the AC30s current is too strong, even on the lowest setting. So I cut a very small piece of sponge that just fits over the out put. It's made the current less strong, (so my plants aren't being thrown around the tank) and it also helps to break up the CO2 a little more. I now have lovely tiny CO2 bubbles going all over my tank, and my plants are staying put


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## Wasserpest

That's a neat idea. You probably don't have to clean it a lot either because of the main "pre"-filter. 

Another good way to reduce/distribute strong flow is to use a spraybar. If you place it close to the bottom along the backside it isn't very visible either, and you can get good circulation throughout the entire tank.


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## brinks

Just wondering how you support/attach it to the tank, or does it just hang in place?


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## Wasserpest

If you can place it upside down, you can just set it on top of the substrate.

In my 36 bow front tank I partitioned off the back corner with some plastic strip, put a piece of foam there, and the pump is sitting on top of the foam.

Sometimes the power cable comes out on top of the pump. You can use a zip tie to tie it to the pump and direct it up if the pump is placed upside down.

Some pumps (like the AquaClear series) have rubber feet that you can use to stick the pump to the glass. In my experience they don't hold very well, after a while they harden and with the vibrations of the pump the will let go.


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## BaltimoreGuy

Just a heads up on the co2 injection into a powerhead. http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/CO2/yeast-disaster.html#4

I can also see this happening via the method you posted since that inlet is actually a small vacuum. If you use a glass bottle or pressurized methods this wouldn't be an issue. But use caution if you use a plastic DIY bottle.


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## arn24

I've used this filter setup for over a year now. Works great! I found out that if you leave a 1/4" or so of the foam sticking above the water line, it will collect any surface films and debris. I use a QuietOne 1200 and these need to be run this way or they get really noisy! I've even had the shaft the impeller runs on fall out if it was run upside down!

I used to run my co2 line into a small slit in the foam, but as mentioned above, I did have an instance where I got the line too close to the intake tube and it did create a vacuum and started to suck "yeast water" up from the DIY co2 containers. I'm thinking about ditching the canister filter and running 2 of these instead, although the Grigg type co2 reactor works very well. I will probably insert the co2 line in the foam just below the top of the intake tube and let the co2 bubble rise on its own and then get sucked into the pump. Make sense?

Please ignore the sorry state of the tank, I'm ready to start over! Also, this filter really does clear the water up fast, but it's still cloudy in these pics from cleaning a few minutes earlier.

















Aaron


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## Da Plant Man

I know this thread is old, I also didn't bother to read the last pages. I would just like to say that this is a great idea, but for $20 you can get one off of ebay that works just as well.

Just search on ebay: "jebo internal filter" and you get to see it. Only down side of that is that the sponge is bright yellow, no biggie if you spray paint the clear plastic case with krylon fusion or just wait a month to have it turn brown.


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## SleepyOwl

I like the filters I have right now, but have been thinking about getting a small internal filter to add to my 55 to boost water circulation in my 55, and to use for my co2. I also thought it would be nice to have a small filter that is always ready for a quarintine tank without having to keep one cycled all the time.

I am just thinking that this would be a great solution! I am scared about my DIY co2 now, but will just be careful how I place it to prevent that from happening.

Thanks!


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## Wasserpest

arn24 said:


> I've used this filter setup for over a year now. Works great! I found out that if you leave a 1/4" or so of the foam sticking above the water line, it will collect any surface films and debris. I use a QuietOne 1200 and these need to be run this way or they get really noisy! I've even had the shaft the impeller runs on fall out if it was run upside down!


That's heavy duty! I tried something similar with the same kind pump, but it ended up blowing fish and plants around too much, and the blue was a bit of an eyesore. Good idea for the surface skimmer!



arn24 said:


> I used to run my co2 line into a small slit in the foam, but as mentioned above, I did have an instance where I got the line too close to the intake tube and it did create a vacuum and started to suck "yeast water" up from the DIY co2 containers. I'm thinking about ditching the canister filter and running 2 of these instead, although the Grigg type co2 reactor works very well. I will probably insert the co2 line in the foam just below the top of the intake tube and let the co2 bubble rise on its own and then get sucked into the pump. Make sense?


Yep, these impellers can create quite a bit of suction, you want to be careful with a thin plastic bottle DIY CO2 setup. Also, keep in mind that in case of a power outage the DIY keeps bubbling, and we need to be careful not to airlock the impeller housing.


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## Zelth

Exelent stuff ive been doing there with some azoo mini power heads for years works really nice to me with diy co2


Wasserpest said:


> Sometimes the simplest things work out best. Here is a good example.
> 
> For a planted tank, a canister filter is the widely recommended choice. And it is easy to see why. However, there are some disadvantages to canister filters:
> 
> *Cost* - the cheapest ones will still cost >$50 (not talking about a "mini" here), with prices going up to $400+ for the latest Eheim.
> 
> *Risk* - however small, anything that lifts water over the tank rim has a potential of emptying out a large tank in minutes. Hope you are around when that happens. Also, canister filter inlets can be deadly to smallish creatures.
> 
> *Efficiency* - going through the (clogged?) input strainer, the water runs up the tubing, through x elbows, bends, and kinks, into the filter housing, down to the bottom, up through (around?) the various media, further through the impeller housing back into the tubing, up to the rim and out into the tank via spraybars etc. All of this creates friction, turbulences, or just simple blockage, which is made up for by added wattage.
> 
> *Cleaning* - as convenient as they are, cleaning still involves a lot of steps, well you probably know.
> 
> *CO2* - to use a canister filter for dissolving CO2 gas, an inline reactor is a good solution, still, it needs to be built or bought, and somehow be plumbed into the flow.
> 
> So here is an idea which removes these disadvantages, plus offers a great way to dissolve and distribute CO2 without having to construct an inline reactor:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Cost* - the pump which I used (AC30) costs between $15 and $20. A big piece of sponge comes in at $5. I cut that in four, the quarter is big enough to filter my 36 gal tank for several weeks:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Risk* - no risk. 'nuff said.
> 
> *Efficiency* - here is where the internal filter shines. The AC30 uses 6 or 8 Watts (will check this later) and provides plenty of flow for my 36 gal tank. Compare that to 20 or 30 Watts for the average canister filter.
> 
> Also, the filtration is outstanding. The sponge (that's the nature of the beast) fills up very very very evenly. After a few weeks the flow goes down, and it is amazing how much stuff comes out of it! Since we are using a solid piece of foam, that's a lot of capacity even when compared to a large canister filter with "pads".
> 
> *Cleaning* - I have the sponge sitting on top of the pump. I just lift the sponge off, use some sort of dish to catch the dripping water, and off to the sink or (if you clean in tank water) bucket it goes.
> 
> *CO2* - an airline is connected to the powerhead so the CO2 bubbles are smashed up by the impeller into fine mist, dissolving on its way to the surface. I get more CO2 into the water with this setup than in my 10 gal where CO2 bubbles into the AC Mini. Surface agitation (lack of it) is big part of this, but it also tells me that all the CO2 gets dissolved.
> 
> So what are the cons?
> 
> - Need to find a pump that doesn't mind sitting upside down. For example, an AC50 got very noisy when running that way. The AC30 I have works great for a couple of months already. Absolutely no noise (I have to look into the tank to make sure it is running). Of course you could put the pump on top of the sponge, but that would make cleaning a little more involved.
> 
> - Visual impact - there is some trade-off here... instead of an inlet and an outlet pipe, you have a pump and a sponge sitting in a tank corner. In a corner tank, having it sit in the corner, covered by plants... totally invisible. Depending on your scape, you would need to think about how to hide i. Many obviously don't care about showing some tech stuff so maybe it doesn't bother them. I prefer covering it up with plants.
> 
> Can not think of any other disadvantages... what do you think?


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## colisalalia

Hi,

I would like to do this type of filter. I just checked out a similar post from 2009-

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/94386-diy-sponge-filter-w-powerhead.html

They used a maxi-jet 400. I am thinking of getting that powerhead because it is cheaper and others say it is quiet upside down.

I noticed that there is only an opening at the bottom of the tube. Do I need to drill holes up the entire tube that the sponge is set on?

Any reason I should not get the maxi-jet 400 for a 20 gallon long low tech planted tank? Is the aqua clear better for some reason?

I thought I read on one of these posts to be careful to not have too much flow. Is that correct? Should I get the lowest flow, like the Aquaclear 20 or the maxi-jet 400?

Lastly does the sound of the smashing CO2 only happen with CO2 equipment or does it happen with a low tech tank also?

Thanks so much,

Christy


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## Wasserpest

_I would like to do this type of filter. I just checked out a similar post from 2009

They used a maxi-jet 400. I am thinking of getting that powerhead because it is cheaper and others say it is quiet upside down._

Try them! Try them!
And you may.
Try them and you may I say.

_I noticed that there is only an opening at the bottom of the tube. Do I need to drill holes up the entire tube that the sponge is set on?_

Normally you want some sort of inlet strainer to get even flow through the entire sponge surface. Just an opening at the bottom will probably reduce the filtering capacity and time you can let it run in between cleanings.
_
Any reason I should not get the maxi-jet 400 for a 20 gallon long low tech planted tank? Is the aqua clear better for some reason?_

You will have to try for yourself. I have good results with the AC30, but the MaxiJet might just run as good or better.

_I thought I read on one of these posts to be careful to not have too much flow. Is that correct?_

Depends a bit on your fish... some like quiet waters (Gouramis, Pencil Fish, etc). Others enjoy a good current.

_Lastly does the sound of the smashing CO2 only happen with CO2 equipment or does it happen with a low tech tank also?_

It happens if you inject CO2. In a low tech tank without CO2 additions = no smashing sounds. If you inject CO2 into the powerhead, you get an audible bubble counter. How loud depends a lot on the bubble size, smaller bubbles make less of a ruckus.


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## kingfisherfleshy

Built something like this except used a viaaqua powerhead as they are much smaller for my 10g tank. 

I set the powerhead on its side, and ran my DIY co2 right into the filter strainer, up next to the impeller where it pulled the co2 up into the tank, and gave off little squirts. 

I had an outlet that had a 90* bend facing the bottom of the tank, and had another strainer on it, so the bubbles came out even finer.

Worked pretty trick for choppin up bubbles..filtration...cant say the same. 

I would stick with my eheim over one of these in a small tank any day. 

A 40g or a 55g might be better with two of these...unless you wanted to splurge and get a huge eheim or two. But for the smallest tanks, I think canister is still the better option.


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## colisalalia

I have read more and found more people saying the maxi-jet makes noise.

So for the 20 gallon long is the aquaclear 20 enough? I do want to have a dwarf gourami. 

The manufacturer says it is good up to a 20 gallon tank. In a low tech planted tank is it enough for even larger tanks. Or should I go larger because the sponge slows it a little and then it will work should I get a bigger tank in the future.

So basically is it better to err on the side of going weaker or stronger for a low tech planted tank?

Also what size canister filter inlet strainer? I talked to an online store trying to find it. They said to go to home depot. Can you direct me where to go to get the strainer?

Thanks. I really appreciate all your help.

Christy


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## Wasserpest

You could use an AC30. That's what I have on my 36gal tank, and it is just enough. Like you said, easier to slow down flow than to increase it if the pump is under-dimensioned.

The sponge doesn't slow down the pump until the very end when it becomes totally clogged. That is the beauty of this filtering, no flow reduction for a long time.

Regarding the strainer, there might be one included when you buy a pump. If it is only open on the end you can drill more holes into it. There is really a large variety of things you can use, from hole-y PVC pipes, hair rollers, hotel shampoo bottles and other things you might find around the house and perhaps poke some more holes into.


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## kamikazi

This is an awesome thread. Maybe one of the best DIY projects I have seen on this site. 

I am running 2 HOB filters on a slightly overstocked 29 gallon. Needless to say I would love to eliminate some excess equipment and free up the top of my tank for a plant project I have in mind. 

Would 1 AC-30 supply enough filtration to eliminate the need for the HOB filters?

Also I'm not running CO2 can I still use the AC-30?


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## colisalalia

Having issues. I bought the Aquaclear 30. I went down to the local aquarium store. 

I am having a hard time finding something that fits snug enough. We found a long tube with vents that fits correctly on the powerhead but once the sponge is on it, it floats off. 

It is a fine pour sponge because I have some volunteer fry in the tank from some donated plants. It is like the hydro sponge.

The powerhead is so strong it just wants to tear everything to pieces too. If I try to point it away at the wall it just sprays out and digs a hole in the sand and lets the soil plume. It is definitely making a storm more than circulation.


What should I be doing differently?

Thanks,

Christy


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## kamikazi

kamikazi said:


> I am running 2 HOB filters on a slightly overstocked 29 gallon. Needless to say I would love to eliminate some excess equipment and free up the top of my tank for a plant project I have in mind.
> 
> Would 1 AC-30 supply enough filtration to eliminate the need for the HOB filters?
> 
> Also I'm not running CO2 can I still use the AC-30?


Still need answers.

Thanks


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## Wasserpest

colisalalia said:


> Having issues. I bought the Aquaclear 30. I went down to the local aquarium store.
> 
> I am having a hard time finding something that fits snug enough. We found a long tube with vents that fits correctly on the powerhead but once the sponge is on it, it floats off.
> 
> It is a fine pour sponge because I have some volunteer fry in the tank from some donated plants. It is like the hydro sponge.
> 
> The powerhead is so strong it just wants to tear everything to pieces too. If I try to point it away at the wall it just sprays out and digs a hole in the sand and lets the soil plume. It is definitely making a storm more than circulation.
> 
> 
> What should I be doing differently?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Christy


Whoops. The AC30 that's filtering my 36 corner tank is just right in output. Over time, as the sponge fills up with crud, it slows down a bit, a sign that it needs to be cleaned.

First of all, you are attaching the sponge to the inlet, right? Why does it float off? The suction should suck it towards the pump. Perhaps you have to do a little DIY to fit the tube better onto the pump. I mean you could even super-glue it on as long as you can still access the impeller. I usually have an assortment of different sized vinyl hoses that I can somehow combine for a makeshift adapter.

Second, did you somehow attach the pump inside your tank? In the picture posted by arn24 earlier you can see he is using an acrylic plate. If you just let the pump dangle by its power cord it will do some unexpected things. :biggrin:

One way to reduce the current of an oversized pump is to use something to spread/distribute the outflow. You could wrap a piece of lace around the outlet, like that stuff that is used for curtains, and secure it with a rubberband. That should quiet down the outflow a bit.

Another option would be to return it in exchange for an AC20 (sorry!).


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## Wasserpest

kamikazi said:


> This is an awesome thread. Maybe one of the best DIY projects I have seen on this site.
> 
> I am running 2 HOB filters on a slightly overstocked 29 gallon. Needless to say I would love to eliminate some excess equipment and free up the top of my tank for a plant project I have in mind.
> 
> Would 1 AC-30 supply enough filtration to eliminate the need for the HOB filters?
> 
> Also I'm not running CO2 can I still use the AC-30?


Thanks k! I think an AC30 with an appropriately sized sponge will supply enough filtration. It all comes down to how overstocked the tank is, and how often you want to clean it. As Christy can attest, the AC30 has a pretty good flow going.

Whether or not you use CO2 doesn't really matter in regards to this method of filtration. If you decide to inject CO2 one day, you can use the pump as a diffuser/reactor. Or not.


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## AlexM

Why not create a corner overflow with some black plexiglass and put the powerhead at the bottom with a hose connected to it to a output nozzle on the outside of the plexiglass near the bottom. The top of the plexiglass cornered off section would be 1/2" lower than water level meaning all the water is brought into the tank from the lower positioned powerhead and forced to go into the overflow from the top then filtering through your sponge. I did this same idea with a 20g saltwater back in the day.


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## jasonpatterson

colisalalia said:


> I am having a hard time finding something that fits snug enough. We found a long tube with vents that fits correctly on the powerhead but once the sponge is on it, it floats off.


Assemble the thing underwater. Put the powerhead in place, put the sponge in the water, squeeze it thoroughly to remove the bulk of the air it contains (it should sink at this point), then put it on the powerhead inlet. It's a lot easier once the thing has been running for a while and the sponge weighs 6 pounds instead of 0.00001 pounds.


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## kamikazi

Wasserpest said:


> Thanks k! I think an AC30 with an appropriately sized sponge will supply enough filtration. It all comes down to how overstocked the tank is, and how often you want to clean it. As Christy can attest, the AC30 has a pretty good flow going.


The 29 has:
9 pristella tetras
2 cory cats
2 neon tetras
2 angels
1 bolivian ram
1 oto

If I got a sponge like the one in your OP and I cut into quarters would that work? Or should I cut into 3rds? 

Also how many inches in across is a quarter of the sponge?


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## Wasserpest

The sponges I have cut in quarters are called "Oxygen Plus", sometimes sold under the Azoo brand. This one is #10, and it is 7 1/4" in diameter, and 4" high (never mind the sizes given on the website).

There is also a #4 sponge from the same series which is not as wide and could be used in its entirety. Don't see it for sale right now at the Drs.


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## kamikazi

Thanks, sounds like if I go this route I will have to do a bit of rescaping but I think it will be worth it.


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## shiloh

forgive me if this was mentioned, i didn't feel like reading the whole thread.

I would be a bit concerned about the bacterial colony. Doesn't wringing the sponge out to remove the detritus also take some of the beneficial bacteria with it?


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## Wasserpest

No prob, it's pretty overwhelming...

You are right, some of the beneficial bacteria will be flushed out along with fish poop and other stuff when cleaning the sponge.

If you squeeze the sponge in a bucket of tank water, there will still be plenty of bacteria left, eager to repopulate the thing. Don't use chlorinated water to clean the sponge if bio filtration is the main purpose.

Most planted tanks have a great capacity to remove ammonia and nitrites (plants like them), so unless the tank is overstocked it shouldn't be an issue for most of us.


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## smannell

I've used a similar setup for over a decade for my 55 gal community tank. It works great. I didn't want to see any equipment in my main tank, so I have the Hydro-Sponge and a submersible pump in my sump tank, and then a small vertical return line (spray bar) in one corner which is easily hidden by plants. I can clean the entire thing without ever touching the lights or glass top. 

The other thing I really like about a setup like this is that when baby shrimp or fish get sucked up by the siphon tube, they can just live in the sump tank until they are big enough to catch. The sponge filter makes a perfect feeding ground for shrimplets. I've rescued a few baby tetras over the years (never saw the spawn), and recently over a dozen little ghost shrimp.

I'm planning on setting up a small shrimp tank soon, and am going to use something similar to this on that as well. Right now I'm planning on building a rock waterfall in the corner which will hide the sponge and small pump.


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## caronsd

Bump for this topic, same type I use, cost me $30 total for extra sponges and everything. Works great. I came across the idea of using this when I went over to Ken's house from Ken's fish. Works like a charm right now, I even have a pipe coming off the powerhead which disperses the water into a nice even flow across one wall of my corner tank right over to the other. I've always used sponge filters in my tanks, quiet and cheap to run but this is the first I combined with a powerhead. Usually i used air pumps and varied flow for suction power.


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## E.Eliveld

It's in Dutch but the pictures are clear enough.

http://www.eliveld.nl/articles/blogs/2010/0205/0205.html


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## jasonpatterson

shiloh said:


> forgive me if this was mentioned, i didn't feel like reading the whole thread.
> 
> I would be a bit concerned about the bacterial colony. Doesn't wringing the sponge out to remove the detritus also take some of the beneficial bacteria with it?


Sure, but bacteria multiply quickly, and unless you're washing it in hot/soapy water, or perhaps extensively in chlorinated water, it isn't nearly enough to kill the filter's effectiveness. The cost in temporary loss of bacteria is more than made up for by the increase in flow.


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## colisalalia

Update:

I used a rubberband to hold the sponge on. I found the suctions to hold the powerhead to the wall.

The flow is still fast. I pointed it up towards the surface which helps. But it still makes the fry have to swim as fast as they can. They sometimes get tossed and trashed in the current. If it was on all day they would have to be sprinting all day instead of eating.

So twice a day I chase them away from the front of it and turn it on for a few minutes. The whole tank moves so they can only find spots that have a little less strong current.

I hope they can take the current once they are bigger. 

I should maybe find someone that wants to trade for the AC 20.

Christy


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## sevenyearnight

I made a ghetto spray bat to divert the strong single current, works well so far.
Got a black plastic water pipe, some small spout like things, a plug. Drilled holes, inserted spout things. No more monsoon.


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## demonr6

Quick question.. I was looking into this for a 20 gal and 55 gal tank, how many gph respectively would you recommend for each pump? For the 55 gal would I be better off with two pump setups, one on each end maybe? Thanks!


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## captmicha

Why operate the water pump upside down?? Why does the sponge need to be on the top?

I apologize if this has already been discussed.


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## kamikazi

sevenyearnight said:


> I made a ghetto spray bat to divert the strong single current, works well so far.
> Got a black plastic water pipe, some small spout like things, a plug. Drilled holes, inserted spout things. No more monsoon.


could you give some more details on this and possibly share a pic or two of it?


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## Wasserpest

demonr6 said:


> Quick question.. I was looking into this for a 20 gal and 55 gal tank, how many gph respectively would you recommend for each pump? For the 55 gal would I be better off with two pump setups, one on each end maybe? Thanks!


I'd suggest an AC20 for the smaller tank, a single AC50 for the 55gal. If you go with two pumps, perhaps 2 AC30's for a densely planted jungle, or 2 AC20's for something more iwagumi-like.



captmicha said:


> Why operate the water pump upside down?? Why does the sponge need to be on the top?
> 
> I apologize if this has already been discussed.


No problem... it doesn't need to be inverted, but this makes maintenance easier. Unplug the pump, and pull the sponge up to clean it. If the sponge is on the bottom of the pump, it takes a bit more finagling to get the sponge off and on again, more so in (heavily) planted tanks. 

If you inject CO2 this way, inverting the pump also reduces the chance of an airlock in case the power goes out.


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## demonr6

Wasserpest, check this link out.. I have one of their internal filters I have been using for months now and am quite happy with it. Also I am using one of their heaters.. not horribly expensive and I cannot complain. 

I was thinking about one of their powerheads for the 20 and 55. For the 55 I can run dual pumps, one with the add-on UV attachment and rig a sponge filter to that as well. Thoughts?


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