# Fluval FX5 Canister Filter?



## mistahoo (Apr 25, 2012)

They work. It's a decent filter. I'd rate it 7/10. Better as a water mover than a filter. Just ditch everything and load that sucker up with bio balls or plastic pot scrubbers.

If you're looking for large quality canisters, I'd go with an Eheim 2260/2. If you're baller and want the best quality canisters, I'd go with the ADA canister filters.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

mistahoo said:


> They work. It's a decent filter. I'd rate it 7/10. Better as a water mover than a filter. Just ditch everything and load that sucker up with bio balls or plastic pot scrubbers.


+1. Don't buy fluval commercial media. Pot scrubbers all the way. It's flow rate is second to none. I run two of these on two 125g. One tank is a turtle tank and it stays clear as a bell. I highly recommend the fx5 as long as you use custom media and a custom outflow. Oh, and replace the black ribbed hose with clear 1" inner diameter vinyl hose. Use those metal hose clamps too.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## In.a.Box (Dec 8, 2011)

The best canister filter ever made.


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## mistahoo (Apr 25, 2012)

In.a.Box said:


> The best canister filter ever made.


LOL! You're funny guy. Definitely not the best canister filter, but decent for its price. You can't beat 6 for $1 plastic pot scrubbers when it come to media. ADA canister filter is the best as far as I know.


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## Sethjohnson30 (Jan 16, 2012)

In.a.Box said:


> The best canister filter ever made.


I agree. I've had tons of canisters but nothing compares to my fx5


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

What do you mean by plastic pot scrubbers, and are they a better alternative to fluval bio media, or are they just cheaper? And why not use the fluval stuff, polishing pad, coarse pad, etc. 

I am using an fx5, and it has been great so far (a few weeks). Any media tips would be greatly appreciated. The more specific the better. Thanks!


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## mistahoo (Apr 25, 2012)

Plastic pot scrubbers. You can find them at any dollar store. 6 for $1. Now compare that to Fluval media. Last I remember, buying a box of Fluval media cost me about $15 for a large media bag full. $15 will get me 90 plastic pot scrubbers. Both hold beneficial bacteria. Now compare the two. 


Here's a pic from Google if you don't know what I'm talking about.


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## ceech1 (Feb 20, 2013)

Eheim Professional Pro 3 is a much better filter i think.If you are looking for big flow the fx5 is good but for filtering Eheim is better.Mind you they are both beasts and not a huge difference in them.I just prefer Eheim.


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## ceech1 (Feb 20, 2013)

I had bio balls and bio beads in mine and it was perfect.But i guess we all like to do what suits us


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## fishtastic (Apr 3, 2007)

Had one on a 220g dwarf cichlid setup. I um "forgot" to clean it for about a year and a half. It still worked perfect never had a problem.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks everyone. FX5 at top of my budget, sounds like it best option over filstar xl.

What about using inline heater and co2 atomizer inline as well should work ok???

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


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## In.a.Box (Dec 8, 2011)

mistahoo said:


> LOL! You're funny guy. Definitely not the best canister filter, but decent for its price. You can't beat 6 for $1 plastic pot scrubbers when it come to media. ADA canister filter is the best as far as I know.


Yes I'm funny, thanks. 
But ur a more funny guy... Hehe Ada filter? Really? Really? I think I just piss on myself.
Thanks for the joke of the day.

Why not pick up the China model? The Odyssey cfs5


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## ChadRamsey (Nov 3, 2011)

i use an FX5 in my 125g and it works GREAT. I use lava rock and scrubbies for media. I have ZERO complaints about it.:thumbsup:


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

marcnc said:


> Thanks everyone. FX5 at top of my budget, sounds like it best option over filstar xl.
> 
> What about using inline heater and co2 atomizer inline as well should work ok???
> 
> Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2


I use a hydor inline heater (the only brand that in aware of) with one of my fluvals. Works great, the only problem is that the hydor is 5/8" I.D. while the fluval house is 1" I.D. You'll need to custom plumb and reduce the hose size. I actually split my output and did a diy spray bar. I'll post a pic later if you'd like.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

amberoze said:


> I use a hydor inline heater (the only brand that in aware of) with one of my fluvals. Works great, the only problem is that the hydor is 5/8" I.D. while the fluval house is 1" I.D. You'll need to custom plumb and reduce the hose size. I actually split my output and did a diy spray bar. I'll post a pic later if you'd like.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Yes that would be great if you can post picture. I was thinking I would need to split the heater and reactor. I assume you split it with a WYE?


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

My budget is about 260 for the filter. I guess with that budget is the FX5 the best option for me?


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Anyone that has this filter think it will be OK with tank that has Sand?


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

mistahoo said:


> Plastic pot scrubbers. You can find them at any dollar store. 6 for $1. Now compare that to Fluval media. Last I remember, buying a box of Fluval media cost me about $15 for a large media bag full. $15 will get me 90 plastic pot scrubbers. Both hold beneficial bacteria. Now compare the two.
> 
> 
> Here's a pic from Google if you don't know what I'm talking about.


Pretty snarky, considering nobody was questioning which was cheaper. I appreciate the picture, though. Want to make sure I know what we are talking about before putting it in a my filter, and there are lots of kinds of plastic pot scrubbers.


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## VAtanks (Feb 1, 2013)

....I use Biomax. Petco had like 10 boxes on sale for 2 bucks a piece...filled the middle tray to the max with it.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

marcnc said:


> Yes that would be great if you can post picture. I was thinking I would need to split the heater and reactor. I assume you split it with a WYE?


Split with a TEE actually. Pics below.



marcnc said:


> My budget is about 260 for the filter. I guess with that budget is the FX5 the best option for me?


Both of my fx5s cost about 250 each.




marcnc said:


> Anyone that has this filter think it will be OK with tank that has Sand?


Sand should be fine. Just lift your intake about 4-6 inches of the substrate.








Reducer bushing from 1" down to 5/8" for the TEE. I wish I had used a 1" TEE, and reduced after the split. Also, notice that the TEE is on it's side, kind of like a lower case "y".








The heater is on the open output. The other side of the split goes to a diy spray bar.

I estimate about 400gph flow through my tank with this setup. The fx5 is rated for 600+gph, but that's with no media and all stock parts. I read where someone experimented with smooth hoses and got over 700+gph. Just food for thought.lol

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

amberoze said:


> I use a hydor inline heater (the only brand that in aware of) with one of my fluvals. Works great, the only problem is that the hydor is 5/8" I.D. while the fluval house is 1" I.D. You'll need to custom plumb and reduce the hose size. I actually split my output and did a diy spray bar. I'll post a pic later if you'd like.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


I took a similar approach, but I wanted to end up with a single outflow. I built a PVC manifold that runs a CO2 reactor and an inline heater in parallel and then recombines them. Using ball valves i can adjust the flow to each, or bypass them completely. This way I should have less total resistance than if the reduced diameter sections were in series.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

ETK said:


> I took a similar approach, but I wanted to end up with a single outflow. I built a PVC manifold that runs a CO2 reactor and an inline heater in parallel and then recombines them. Using ball valves i can adjust the flow to each, or bypass them completely. This way I should have less total resistance than if the reduced diameter sections were in series.


I'm saving these pictures if you don't mind. I'd like to have them when I upgrade my tank to hi tech. This is an awesome setup you've got here. One question though, why are you using brass barbs for the hydor, but plastic barbs on the other two?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

Double post


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thank you for the pictures, that should help me when I get the filter next week. I ordered it today. $247 and 2 day free shipping.

So from the output of the canister you split into that T? One then goes direct back into the tank? Assume with the spray bar or whatever comes with it? The other goes to the heater to the return you made?

Do you have anything before or after the T to limit the flow? Assume I could also add my CO2 reactor and UV on this side as well long as I limit the flow?

Thanks again.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

Fx6 is already out in Europe :/


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

amberoze said:


> I'm saving these pictures if you don't mind. I'd like to have them when I upgrade my tank to hi tech. This is an awesome setup you've got here.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


No problem of course. Building that thing was fun -- let me know if you have any questions. There is more info in my tank journal too.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> No problem of course. Building that thing was fun -- let me know if you have any questions. There is more info in my tank journal too.


 
WOW that really cool, thanks for sharing, I am going to do the same I think.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

marcnc said:


> Thank you for the pictures, that should help me when I get the filter next week. I ordered it today. $247 and 2 day free shipping.
> 
> So from the output of the canister you split into that T? One then goes direct back into the tank? Assume with the spray bar or whatever comes with it? The other goes to the heater to the return you made?
> 
> ...


If you are using co2 as well, I would build the manifold that ETK posted. 

To answer your question, one output from the TEE goes to the spray bar I made, the other output goes through the heater then directly into the tank.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> No problem of course. Building that thing was fun -- let me know if you have any questions. There is more info in my tank journal too.


 
Your tank looks great. All your plumbing is great.

Few questions.

What size PVC is that 1/2, 3/4? unable to tell from picture. - Answered my own question on this one, helps to read your journal 
The output from your canister is that split line going to the manifold and one direct to the tank or do you have everything into the manifold? If that case does it not cause flow to be really low?

What type of CO2 reactor are you using?

Thanks again.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

Noticed you mentioned UV: I actually have an extra loop built in for UV. I haven't added a UV filter yet, but from what I have learned they won't work well unless the flow rate is low enough. With a dedicated loop you could adjust the flow separately. Caveat: I haven't used this thing with 3 loops yet, so don't know for sure what kind of flow through you would get. I think it would be fine though. The FX5 really is a beast.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> Noticed you mentioned UV: I actually have an extra loop built in for UV. I haven't added a UV filter yet, but from what I have learned they won't work well unless the flow rate is low enough. With a dedicated loop you could adjust the flow separately. Caveat: I haven't used this thing with 3 loops yet, so don't know for sure what kind of flow through you would get. I think it would be fine though. The FX5 really is a beast.


Yeah I think it would be fine as well. 

Do you like the Ista mix max inline reactor? Are you seeing a lot of bubbles in your tank? Does not look like it from the pictures?

I heard it kinda loud when actively injecting CO2? It going to be in a closed stand. Trying to decide if I should just use co2 atomizer diffuser. I read the reviews about them on this site, but like to hear from someone that has just set it up.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

marcnc said:


> Your tank looks great. All your plumbing is great.
> 
> Few questions.
> 
> ...


The filter output goes directly to the bottom of the manifold. (BTW, flow starts at the bottom to minimize the possibility of trapping air in the manifold). I am sure it reduces flow some, but i tried to minimize the number of corners and also keep the PVC diameter large for sections that carry all the flow. 

The main sections are 1" PVC. The key was finding the Tees that are 1" straight through, with a 1/2" section teeing off of it. This way if I want more total flow I can open up a ball valve (partially or completely) and send the water through 1" PVC the whole way. This also lets me replace or remove the reactor or heater pretty easily while everything is running.

I chose to glue almost everything, which I may regret, but at least it doesn't leak. The only things that are screwed on are the hose barbs. That way I can replace them with different sizes if i need to. Use lots of tephlon tape and the threads and they wont leak. 

The problem with using threaded fittings everywhere is that things don't come out at the right angle. You can add a union, which i think allows you to rotate it, but that adds length, and as you can see, things are already pretty tight.

The CO2 reactor is the Ista Mix Max. They make two sizes, and I think I have the "medium" one. With adjustable flow through it its seems fine. My tank is very small for an FX5 though, so if you need to dissolve lots of CO2 you might want the larger one. To decide between this type and the inline atomizers, you need to choose sides in the "misting vs. dissolving" CO2 debate. I honestly have no idea which one plants like better. Some people say its better to dissolve CO2 completely (like the mix max), and some people say it's better to send the tiny CO2 bubbles into the tank.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

marcnc said:


> Yeah I think it would be fine as well.
> 
> Do you like the Ista mix max inline reactor? Are you seeing a lot of bubbles in your tank? Does not look like it from the pictures?
> 
> I heard it kinda loud when actively injecting CO2? It going to be in a closed stand. Trying to decide if I should just use co2 atomizer diffuser. I read the reviews about them on this site, but like to hear from someone that has just set it up.


I like the mix max, but it does make a little noise. It would be even quieter if i turned the flow through it down more. None of the bubbles get through if the flow is right: it really is 100% dissolved.

Its just a plastic reactor, so it doesn't feel like it will last forever. I was nervous tightening the hose clamps on the fittings, but so far so good.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thank you for sharing, most helpful. Yeah I am torn between the one you use or just setup cerges reactor. cerges reactor will cost a bit more, but might be better in the long run not sure. I want to be able to set it and forget it kinda thing, so I don't go out of town for week and worry if it might leak.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

FYI, just saw this thread about the mix max:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=251802

Personally I haven't had any problems with it, but you def want to read this before installing it.


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## hiyabrad (Feb 11, 2013)

What are the opinions that a FX5 might be too much flow for a 75T? I am also looking at a Fluval 406. I am going from a 26g to a 75T and going to be buying a new canister and want the best.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

hiyabrad said:


> What are the opinions that a FX5 might be too much flow for a 75T? I am also looking at a Fluval 406. I am going from a 26g to a 75T and going to be buying a new canister and want the best.


I am using an FX5 on a 48 Gallon, and I love it. Some people will call this way too much, but for my application I think it is about right. My journal has details. In a nutshell: FX5 is rated at 563 gallons per hour without any media. Some people target 10x tank volume as ideal turnover per hour for a planted tank.


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## alipper (Nov 6, 2012)

I have an FX5 on my 75G, love it. Keep your eyes peeled for aquarium stuff on CL, I picked mine up for $125.


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## Green_Flash (Apr 15, 2012)

It looks they will release the FX6 soon:
http://www.seapets.co.uk/products/a...ters/fluval-fx6-external-canister-filter.html

This updated version goes along with all their other products like the Aquaclear, Canisters etc. 


FX5 price drop, clearance sale on the horizon?


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## VAtanks (Feb 1, 2013)

ETK that manifold is beautiful...I see a trip to home depot for me in the morning....Is that all 1.5 piping? and second question do you mind if I use your design?


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

Thanks! Sure, go ahead and use the design. See post 33 in this thread for more details. Also my tank journal. The manifold is 1" PVC, with 1/2" for the device loops. Post pics of what you make, too!


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## stevenjohn21 (May 23, 2012)

Ive only ever owned Rena XP's and have had no complaints *touch wood* The Fluval FX-5 just seems a little too much "Oopmh" for it to be a good biological filter. If it were me i would get 2x Rena XP-3 or the "Large" as they call it now, and still have some change in your pocket.
The Brits have the FX-6 which is even more "Oomph" but are focused on being more energy efficient.
http://www.seapets.co.uk/products/a...ters/fluval-fx6-external-canister-filter.html


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> Thanks! Sure, go ahead and use the design. See post 33 in this thread for more details. Also my tank journal. The manifold is 1" PVC, with 1/2" for the device loops. Post pics of what you make, too!


Are the ball valves for each device that will connect to the manifold 1/2 or 3/4? Cannot tell from the picture if maybe they are 3/4 with reducer connected to the 1 inch.

Thanks


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

Love my FX5 and would recommend it to anyone needing a filter of this capacity. My own tests tell me it pumps a little over 600 gph fully loaded with media. I won't get into the debate about Eheim vs. Fluval because it just reduces to a pissing match at the end of the day, but I chose the FX5 for the build quality and the capacity for the money. There's plenty of comparison info on the web between this filter and the equivalent Eheim and the bottom line is that you might get a slightly larger bio capacity with the Eheim, but you'll pay significantly more. For planted tanks? Why? Add to that their pockmarked customer service as of late and the price of replacement parts - meh...Fluval all the way.

Someone mentioned replacing their ribbed hoses and I seriously question why? What's wrong with them that they need replacing?

I run mine on a 40b with a DIY 1" ID spray bar.

BTW In.A.Box: I have a CFS500 too. It's not a terrible filter either. Too bad it got all the bad publicity with the top issues. For $60 it can't be beat.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

Part of why the fx6 dropped it's GPH almost in half is what i think, and a lot of good arguments i've read is such high gph dosnt make a great biological filter, which is really the whole point of a filter besides mechanical. Media basket can be bigger, but with such a high flow, does it matter? Just a thought. 

BTW i msg'd hagen yesterday about the 2 dial knobs on the FX6, they said one is for vacuums, the other for water changes if anyone was wondering. They also have no idea when it'll be available in the states.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

My money is on energy efficiency. I don't think the difference in water dwell is going to make enough difference between 400 (250 real gph?) and 900 (600 gph?), frankly. As a planted tank owner I really don't worry too much about biological actions in the filter anyway, beyond what would be considered ample.


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

For just plants your right, but should be note worthy for those that also keep fish. Lots of great research and arguments for dwell time, which is why seachem recommends not a fast flow over matrix.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

m00se said:


> Someone mentioned replacing their ribbed hoses and I seriously question why? What's wrong with them that they need replacing?


I mentioned replacing the ribbed hose with smooth vinyl hose for multiple reasons actually. Increase in flow rate (the ribbed hose acts almost like a series of speed bumps), less gunk buildup in the hose (the ribs catch trash on the intake side and can slow or even stop flow given enough buildup), and vinyl is more durable (the stock hose can dry rot because that's what plastic does over time).

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks everyone for great feed back so far.

So here what started all this for me. Setting up new 90, I only have budget for one filter. I first ordered Rena filstar XP XL, it came in damaged and it was last one they had in stock so I returned it, and did some reason and read a lot of bad things about the motor so I felt since I travel every other week I would be good to stay away from it. 

I also need to be able to add UV, CO2 Reactor and inline heater. So I plan to build the manifold that was shared here. Thinking it should work great with the FX5.

Now I have to ask was FX5 best option? I don't know you guys are making me second guess my order :red_mouth. It has not arrived and I could return it when it comes in with no charge. It comes back to my budget for filter is only for one filter and about 200 bucks. I also need something that not going to be loud as this will be right next to my bedroom. So do I keep it or get something else? 

My stand going to be finished in a few days and I like to get everything in place soon.

Thanks everyone


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

Amberoze, 

Eh.... Except that they're smooth on the inside and are made out of some special plastic that I can never remember the name of, you'd be right. 

Cheers


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

marcnc said:


> Thanks everyone for great feed back so far.
> 
> Now I have to ask was FX5 best option? I don't know you guys are making me second guess my order :red_mouth. It has not arrived and I could return it when it comes in with no charge. It comes back to my budget for filter is only for one filter and about 200 bucks. I also need something that not going to be loud as this will be right next to my bedroom. So do I keep it or get something else?
> 
> ...


I am not sure what is causing you the double think here. You bought an awesome filter and with the load you're throwing at it with the additional heater and reactor you should have excellent results. I have my tank about 3 feet from my desk in a room where you can hear leaves rustle half an acre away and I will defy you to pick out the sound of the FX5. I would consider building a spray bar however.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

marcnc said:


> Are the ball valves for each device that will connect to the manifold 1/2 or 3/4? Cannot tell from the picture if maybe they are 3/4 with reducer connected to the 1 inch.
> 
> Thanks


The tees are 1" with a 1/2" teeing off of it (ie, the tee has 1", 1", and 1/2" branches). No reducer necessary because the tees reduce from 1" to 1/2". The device ball valves are 1/2".


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## alipper (Nov 6, 2012)

amberoze said:


> I mentioned replacing the ribbed hose with smooth vinyl hose for multiple reasons actually. Increase in flow rate (the ribbed hose acts almost like a series of speed bumps), less gunk buildup in the hose (the ribs catch trash on the intake side and can slow or even stop flow given enough buildup), and vinyl is more durable (the stock hose can dry rot because that's what plastic does over time).
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


Where'd you buy the vinyl tubing?


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## Green_Flash (Apr 15, 2012)

FX5 or Pro3e or G6?

Trying to decide which of those is the best filter for a large tank?


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

What do you guys think about using these ball valve for each device? I am wondering if they would give me bit more control over the flow, rather than standard PVC ball valve. Maybe more control like a gate valve?

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+8016&pcatid=8016


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

That would work, but you would need to use a flexible hose on both sides of the valve. In that case, it would probably make the most sense to build the whole thing out of hose, which is not a bad idea. You could anchor the ball valves to the cabinet to keep everything in place.

Here is another pic of my setup. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit top to bottom. If you had to go PVC to hose to ball valve to hose it probably wouldn't fit. The whole manifold is 28" high as is.

Regarding control, i think the PVC valves work, although I have left them wide open for the heater and the CO2, and closed for the bypass. This seems to be about right flow for the reactor and the heater is happy too. I just use the valves to turn the flow through the reactor off and open the bypass when I start the filter after a water change. That way it just blasts the bubbles through and doesn't add extra gas to the reactor. Just have to remember to open the CO2 valve and close the bypass after it runs for a couple minutes.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> That would work, but you would need to use a flexible hose on both sides of the valve. In that case, it would probably make the most sense to build the whole thing out of hose, which is not a bad idea. You could anchor the ball valves to the cabinet to keep everything in place.
> 
> Here is another pic of my setup. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit top to bottom. If you had to go PVC to hose to ball valve to hose it probably wouldn't fit. The whole manifold is 28" high as is.
> 
> Regarding control, i think the PVC valves work, although I have left them wide open for the heater and the CO2, and closed for the bypass. This seems to be about right flow for the reactor and the heater is happy too. I just use the valves to turn the flow through the reactor off and open the bypass when I start the filter after a water change. That way it just blasts the bubbles through and doesn't add extra gas to the reactor. Just have to remember to open the CO2 valve and close the bypass after it runs for a couple minutes.


 
Thanks for the info. I think I am just going to go with the PVC ball valves. Only thing I might change is make them 3/4 since my filter is 3/4 and so is my UV.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Got the filter today, wow it a beast as you already know.  Cannot wait to get it setup and running. Sadly I am few weeks away from that.


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## In.a.Box (Dec 8, 2011)

Once you buy one u will soon buy another ^^
I got 8 n wouldn't trade it for 100 eheim if someone offer a trade.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

marcnc said:


> Got the filter today, wow it a beast as you already know. Cannot wait to get it setup and running. Sadly I am few weeks away from that.



Way to go bro! You'll love it.roud:


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## alipper (Nov 6, 2012)

m00se said:


> Way to go bro! You'll love it.roud:


LOL at the gif.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

So do you guys think I really need to build a spray bar? I don't think ETK has one on his tank, which I think is smaller than my 90.

My 90 is 48x18. I was thinking I would put the return in the middle so it could be adjusted towards each side of the tank?

I don't mind making the spray bar if I have to, but would like to decide before I get it all setup, I kinda want this tank to be a one time thing, setup and forget it besides weekly water change and ferts every day.


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## alipper (Nov 6, 2012)

marcnc said:


> So do you guys think I really need to build a spray bar? I don't think ETK has one on his tank, which I think is smaller than my 90.
> 
> My 90 is 48x18. I was thinking I would put the return in the middle so it could be adjusted towards each side of the tank?
> 
> I don't mind making the spray bar if I have to, but would like to decide before I get it all setup, I kinda want this tank to be a one time thing, setup and forget it besides weekly water change and ferts every day.


I don't have 1 on my 75, I personally like the split design of the outlet that comes with the filter.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

alipper said:


> I don't have 1 on my 75, I personally like the split design of the outlet that comes with the filter.


Yeah I like that as well. I don't think I am going to go with the spray bar, I just don't see the need for it.

Do you have yours on one side of your tank or right in the middle?

I was thinking of putting my drain on the far left or right and the return in the middle.

Sorry for my ignorance and so many questions, I have used sump for so long, not 100% certain on using canister.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

I agree with Alipper. the FX5 split return is a nice feature. You can direct flow where you want it.

Another thing to think about: The reason I have the return and the intake in the same part of the tank is based on Amano's approach. The idea is to push water away near the surface of the tank, and then have it return to the filter intake along the bottom, bringing detritus (read: poop) back toward the filter. I think this idea breaks down with larger tanks, and it becomes more important to adjust flow in order to eliminate dead spots. The theory of having the flow along the bottom heading back to the filter is nice, but all you really want to do is make sure that stuff remains suspended long enough to reach the filter, while also distributing CO2 and ferts throughout the tank.

What I really want is a 1" set of lily pipes . . . any glass blowers listening? As far as I know they don't exist.


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## alipper (Nov 6, 2012)

marcnc said:


> Yeah I like that as well. I don't think I am going to go with the spray bar, I just don't see the need for it.
> 
> Do you have yours on one side of your tank or right in the middle?
> 
> ...


I have both the return and supply lines towards the middle as far as I was able to go, the center brace for the tank limited that. Then I have the 2 outlets for the supply shooting into the lower, front corners of the tank to try and eliminate dead spots.

I'm new to this size of a tank myself. roud:


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

alipper said:


> I have both the return and supply lines towards the middle as far as I was able to go, the center brace for the tank limited that. Then I have the 2 outlets for the supply shooting into the lower, front corners of the tank to try and eliminate dead spots.
> 
> I'm new to this size of a tank myself. roud:


 
The more I have been thinking about it, I have been thinking I would put the drain & return line, one on each side of the center brace.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> I agree with Alipper. the FX5 split return is a nice feature. You can direct flow where you want it.
> 
> Another thing to think about: The reason I have the return and the intake in the same part of the tank is based on Amano's approach. The idea is to push water away near the surface of the tank, and then have it return to the filter intake along the bottom, bringing detritus (read: poop) back toward the filter. I think this idea breaks down with larger tanks, and it becomes more important to adjust flow in order to eliminate dead spots. The theory of having the flow along the bottom heading back to the filter is nice, but all you really want to do is make sure that stuff remains suspended long enough to reach the filter, while also distributing CO2 and ferts throughout the tank.
> 
> What I really want is a 1" set of lily pipes . . . any glass blowers listening? As far as I know they don't exist.


Would be nice, expensive I bet.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

ETK said:


> I agree with Alipper. the FX5 split return is a nice feature. You can direct flow where you want it.
> 
> Another thing to think about: The reason I have the return and the intake in the same part of the tank is based on Amano's approach. The idea is to push water away near the surface of the tank, and then have it return to the filter intake along the bottom, bringing detritus (read: poop) back toward the filter. I think this idea breaks down with larger tanks, and it becomes more important to adjust flow in order to eliminate dead spots. The theory of having the flow along the bottom heading back to the filter is nice, but all you really want to do is make sure that stuff remains suspended long enough to reach the filter, while also distributing CO2 and ferts throughout the tank.
> 
> What I really want is a 1" set of lily pipes . . . any glass blowers listening? As far as I know they don't exist.


 
ETK,
I picked up most of my supplies this past weekend to build the manifold. One thing I am still bit unsure of and maybe you can help me decide. What made you decide to go with 1/2 for each device rather than 3/4?

I was thinking about going with 3/4 mostly because setting up my reactor would go a bit better, but I can do it either way. 

Just wondering. Thanks for your time.


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

marcnc said:


> ETK,
> I picked up most of my supplies this past weekend to build the manifold. One thing I am still bit unsure of and maybe you can help me decide. What made you decide to go with 1/2 for each device rather than 3/4?
> 
> I was thinking about going with 3/4 mostly because setting up my reactor would go a bit better, but I can do it either way.
> ...


I chose 1/2" PVC since i found those 1"x1"x1/2" tees. If you find 1"x1"x3/4" tees, then that would be theoretically better since it would reduce flow less. Either way you can make your device loops attached to different sizes of tubing as long as you used threaded hose barbs in different sizes. I have ones that work for 13mm and 17mm. (note: you need a coupling that goes from slip fit to threaded)

My plan changed kind of a lot at the hardware store. I was planning to use 1"x1"x"1" tees, with 1" ball valves all around. However, those 1" ball valves are HUGE, and I would have run out of room in the cabinet. Finding things like the 1"x1"x1/2" tees save space by doing two things at once (reducing size and making a tee.)

Couple other things: You will need small pieces of pvc to glue things together, so just pick up a big piece of each size you need. Also, def pick up a pvc cutter. It looks like a big set of pliers. They work great, and you don't want to try to do all this with a hack saw. Also pick up some metal hose straps which you can use to attach the manifold to the cabinet. just a piece of metal bent in to shape to hold a pipe in place. I bought a bunch, but two were all i needed.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks so much for sharing. That made my trip to Lowes go very smooth. I think I got everything I needed, I am sure I forgot something. ha ha

What do you guys keep in your media baskets for the FX5?


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

Here is what I keep in my FX5: Fluval Biomax, a handful of old bio media from my eheim 2213 (added to start a colony of good bacteria), a coarse filter pad (blue) and a fine polishing pad (all from Fluval). If I was worried about flow, i would remove the pads. The FX5 has coarse pads already in it, and I think they would be sufficient.

One more tip I remembered for building the manifold: when you test fit everything, and you have your design finalized, make check marks at the pvc connections using a pen so that you know how far in and what angle all the pieces need to be at when the glue sets. Then when you start gluing its easier to get everything straight and the right length.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks for the info. I started to cut PVC last night, but as I started to sit down and figure this and that out, I was like, OK that part wrong, should have gotten that or this instead. Since local store 30 min drive, I will have to stop on my way home today with an updated list of stuff. Maybe this time I will get correct parts and not foget anything, but I find that doubtful. Still not sure on placement yet. My stand which I thought was large 35 inches high and 4 feet long is filling up quick, so I am unsure on placement yet, either on side or on the back.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

ETK said:


> That would work, but you would need to use a flexible hose on both sides of the valve. In that case, it would probably make the most sense to build the whole thing out of hose, which is not a bad idea. You could anchor the ball valves to the cabinet to keep everything in place.
> 
> Here is another pic of my setup. As you can see, it is a pretty tight fit top to bottom. If you had to go PVC to hose to ball valve to hose it probably wouldn't fit. The whole manifold is 28" high as is.
> 
> Regarding control, i think the PVC valves work, although I have left them wide open for the heater and the CO2, and closed for the bypass. This seems to be about right flow for the reactor and the heater is happy too. I just use the valves to turn the flow through the reactor off and open the bypass when I start the filter after a water change. That way it just blasts the bubbles through and doesn't add extra gas to the reactor. Just have to remember to open the CO2 valve and close the bypass after it runs for a couple minutes.


This works great on my fx5. has anyone tried it on other filters like ehiem and sunsun?


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Well after several weeks, I got my manifold built. Just waiting on 2 things, MPT Reducing Adapter 1/2" x 5/8" MPT x barb. I have brass ones, but I am bit uneasy to use them as they have always leaked for me in the past. Also waiting for 1" black vinyl tubing.

I am to cheap when it comes to shipping, ha.

I am still torn on the spray bar or use the return split that comes with the FX5. I have built the spray bar already, just not sure if I am going to use it or not yet.

I will be happy to get tank up and running and start fishless cycle I hope within a week. Seems like it has taken forever to get to this point.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Anyone know if I can use EHEIM Substrat Pro Biological Filter Media, in the FX5? I have 2 bags of this stuff, when I say bags I mean big bags full like 5 gallon freezer bag. What area should I add it? Or should I just get the proper media for the filter?


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## shift (Jan 7, 2013)

As long as its big enough not to fall through the holes in the trays then go fot it.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

marcnc said:


> Anyone know if I can use EHEIM Substrat Pro Biological Filter Media, in the FX5? I have 2 bags of this stuff, when I say bags I mean big bags full like 5 gallon freezer bag. What area should I add it? Or should I just get the proper media for the filter?





shift said:


> As long as its big enough not to fall through the holes in the trays then go fot it.


You can use anything you want in the fx5, as long as it doesn't clog it or fall through the baskets. I have LECA(expanded clay balls) in the foot of a pair of pantyhose in one of my trays, and lava rock from the outdoor section of Lowes in another tray, biomax in the third. Heck, I even replaced the filter sponges in the sides of the baskets with filter floss(polyester quilt stuffing).

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## VAtanks (Feb 1, 2013)

I run my FX5 with filter floss on the outside of all three rings, top ring has a coarse filter pad and pre filter media under it, 2nd ring I have it packed full of biomax, 3rd ring has 200ml of purigen and a clearmax pouch and a fine filter pad.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

So far manifold not working out very well for my setup. I don't seem to have any flow in my tank.

Not sure what to do. After working on it all weekend, I am thinking about just buying an in-tank heater, and run the CO2 Reactor inline with the canister since the fittings on my reactor are one inch.

The only down side is I would not be able to run my reactor. I guess I could always get a Y for the UV. Not sure at this point. Mine was based off ETK manifold, not sure what the problem is.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

How many intakes do you have?


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> How many intakes do you have?


Just the one that comes with the FX5. Is that what your asking? On the manifold I have 3 devices.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

I used 2 5/8 inputs and it works like a charm


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> I used 2 5/8 inputs and it works like a charm


 
Think I have lost you, inside of the tank? or you used 5/8 Y?


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

Inside tank i have 2 5/8 inputs on either side which go to a 1 inch T. Then to the filter input. 

Output to manifold which is 1 inch and all the equipment reduce to 5/8 output of the manifold is one 5/8 lilly


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

dj2606 said:


> Inside tank i have 2 5/8 inputs on either side which go to a 1 inch T. Then to the filter input.
> 
> Output to manifold which is 1 inch and all the equipment reduce to 5/8 output of the manifold is one 5/8 lilly


OK thanks for the info. Mine never seems to run out of water, just seems like it not pushing enough water back into the tank. I am not sure. Is your manifold the same as the others have posted?


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

Yes only difference is i used 5/8 heater and 5/8 reactor not 1/2 of each


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

Hi Marc, can you post a pic? Might be able to trouble shoot from there.


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

Posting pics by request. Hopefully can be seen clearly.
The split is a reducer coupling from 1" down to 5/8", then to a 5/8" "tee" fitting. The top left of the "tee" goes to my Hydor inline heater, then to an open output in the tank. The top right of the "tee" goes to my PVC spraybar. I chose to split instead of simply reduce the hose size for the Hydor because of my concerns with back pressure on the fluval's pump. I would guess I've got the fluval running at 2/3rd it's maximum potential, and no problems with the pump whatsoever.


Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

I hate to be "that guy" but all those fittings with their reductions and T's and etc are going to dramatically reduce the output of the FX5. This is with an out-of-the-box flow rate of about 600 gph. Generally it's recommended that you have as straight as possible flow from the intake to the output of these filters. This is why you see people making separate reactor loops with their own pumps rather than attaching all of their ancillary components to the filter itself.

If you have to use the FX5 output for your attachments, at least use 1" pipe and as few elbows, T's, Y's, and reducers as possible (IE: none). There are charts and formulas online that can help you understand better if you would like. The manifold idea is pretty and all, but putting it on the FX5 is problematic without supplemental pumping.

Just my .02

Cheers

http://www.hydromatic.com/ResidentialPage_techinfopage_headloss.aspx


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

Glad to have your .02. 

If you do it this way (see pic) then there is a 1" bypass available if you open the valves. When i open the bypass (which is usually closed in order to push more water through the devices), I get slightly more flow, but either way, the flow is very strong. The loops are in parallel, which should reduce flow much less than if they were in series.

Totally agree, however: there will be some reduction in flow compared to running straight to and from the tank without any devices. In my experience it is not a large reduction in flow, so there is likely some other problem causing the lack of flow in the OP's situation.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

m00se said:


> I hate to be "that guy" but all those fittings with their reductions and T's and etc are going to dramatically reduce the output of the FX5. This is with an out-of-the-box flow rate of about 600 gpm. Generally it's recommended that you have as straight as possible flow from the intake to the output of these filters. This is why you see people making separate reactor loops with their own pumps rather than attaching all of their ancillary components to the filter itself.
> 
> If you have to use the FX5 output for your attachments, at least use 1" pipe and as few elbows, T's, Y's, and reducers as possible (IE: none). There are charts and formulas online that can help you understand better if you would like. The manifold idea is pretty and all, but putting it on the FX5 is problematic without supplemental pumping.
> 
> ...


The manifold is 1" allowing full flow, even better than using the ribbed hosing that comes with the filter. The path of the 1" section is pretty close to a direct path. The reductions only go to the equipment which allows for better operation, by reducing flow and allowing water to spend more time in the heater and more co2 dissolved. 

With that being said, i have noticed since switching to this method more flow than using the original ribbed hosing from the filter. Also a smaller bubble count from the co2. I wouldn't switch back

Just my $.02


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

Ayup, that's the way to do it. You also have the added benefit of the additive diameter of all the pipe combined to offset the 90° angles. It's amazing how little disruption in flow can have on the overall efficiency of a pump! The other damndest thing is that hose barbs are also reducers by virtue of how they're designed. I never quite understood that. So I have a 1" hose barb. It fits in a 1" ID hose. That effectively just made my 1" hose 3/4" now. Huh? Brilliant. And on it goes!


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## amberoze (May 22, 2012)

m00se said:


> I hate to be "that guy" but all those fittings with their reductions and T's and etc are going to dramatically reduce the output of the FX5. This is with an out-of-the-box flow rate of about 600 gph. Generally it's recommended that you have as straight as possible flow from the intake to the output of these filters. This is why you see people making separate reactor loops with their own pumps rather than attaching all of their ancillary components to the filter itself.
> 
> If you have to use the FX5 output for your attachments, at least use 1" pipe and as few elbows, T's, Y's, and reducers as possible (IE: none). There are charts and formulas online that can help you understand better if you would like. The manifold idea is pretty and all, but putting it on the FX5 is problematic without supplemental pumping.
> 
> ...


I actually did a test on my setup before permanent installation. I'm running at about 400gph. 2/3rds it's maximum output. I also tested it the way fluval intended it to be installed...it runs at just over 500gph. So even totally stock it doesn't run at full capacity. IMO, it's due to the ribbed hose... Which I made up for by replacing with smooth vinyl.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

amberoze said:


> I actually did a test on my setup before permanent installation. I'm running at about 400gph. 2/3rds it's maximum output. I also tested it the way fluval intended it to be installed...it runs at just over 500gph. So even totally stock it doesn't run at full capacity. IMO, it's due to the ribbed hose... Which I made up for by replacing with smooth vinyl.
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2


yeah that ribbed hosing is awful, even before switching to the manifold I swapped it out for vinyl.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

When I was testing mine before I installed it, I ran 5 gallons in [STRIKE]54[/STRIKE] 24 seconds. That's with the white foam and the center media with ceramic noodles. Stock hose.


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## Tenor1 (Jan 15, 2012)

There certainly are some VERY ingenious people here and I'm really impressed to see what people are doing. I would rather use 2 canisters and add some power heads in the tank to keep the water moving. The other thing is to under stock the tank and do more water changes. Water changes are the best maintenance you can do for a tank, IMO.


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

m00se said:


> When I was testing mine before I installed it, I ran 5 gallons in 54 seconds. That's with the white foam and the center media with ceramic noodles. Stock hose.


 
=333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a *third* of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!


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## shift (Jan 7, 2013)

I'm sure you could get rating that if the canister was 100% empty with real short hoses


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

WheeledGoat said:


> =333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a *third* of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!


It is a little more complicated. The pump in the FX5 is rated at 925 GPH, but that is without hooking it up to the filter, so not really a useful number. The claimed filter circulation is 563 GPH, but even that is without any media in the filter (ie, water flowing through the empty canister).


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## bankruptjojo (Feb 9, 2013)

WheeledGoat said:


> =333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a *third* of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!


im pretty sure most filters list gph without any media. but listing the pump gph off the canister filter is pretty misleading imo.

i think im going to give this a try sometime, thanks ETK this is a great idea. i have a fx5 on my 125 and prob wont mess with that one. i will prob get a fx6 or the give one of the CFS a try. the lower flow is actually ok with me as it will be going on a 75g dutch style.


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## Clownloachlover (Mar 12, 2013)

When building manifolds, spray bars, outlet nozzles or whatever, the other thing to consider, rather than using a 90 degree elbow to make a 90 degree turn, use two 45 degree elbows together...I cut 1" PVC to the exact length I need and then glue two 45 degree elbows together...it does not slow down the flow like a 90 degree elbow does...yes it takes up a little more room but in the end it creates better flow. I purchased some hose through an industrial hose supplier and it is smooth on the inside and ribbed on the outside with a plastic Helix coil...this stuff is super flexible and the 1" hose has a 1" 180 degree bend radius....Awesome stuff. The stock FX5 hose is flexible but with the ribs it does collect gunk on the inlet side and reduces flow rate over time. 

here is the link to the hose I purchased part number...G941W...it is considered Water Suction hose

http://www.greenlinehose.com/_pdf/hose/2.Water.pdf


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## ETK (Jan 25, 2013)

Clownloachlover said:


> http://www.greenlinehose.com/_pdf/hose/2.Water.pdf


Wow, that is some serious stuff. Thanks for the link -- I know I will be replacing the ribbed tubing some time.

Also, i like the idea of using two 45s instead of a 90.


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## marcnc (Dec 13, 2011)

Thanks everyone, all great info. My tank been sitting empty for 4 months. I kinda wish I would have just went with sump like my old setup. That was easy compared to trying to figure out this canister mess. Getting to the point I don't even want to bother with this tank anymore.


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## m00se (Jan 8, 2011)

WheeledGoat said:


> =333 gal/hr, wow! you're talking about the fx5 still? a *third* of their rated 925? how optimistic of them! I'm going to start taking a hard look at this ribbed hosing on my 206 - maybe there's hope after all!



Ack! That should have been 5 gallons in *24* seconds, not 54. My mind...it's a terrible waste. Sorry and good catch! I figured it was approximately 600 gph.


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

For anyone else interested, this manifold also works on other filters. I wouldnt recommend using it on the ehiem classic filters because they don't have a self prime button.




marcnc said:


> Thanks everyone, all great info. My tank been sitting empty for 4 months. I kinda wish I would have just went with sump like my old setup. That was easy compared to trying to figure out this canister mess. Getting to the point I don't even want to bother with this tank anymore.


I must disagree, canister filters are way easier to setup than sumps. However, my experience with them is linking 8 20L on 2 sumps (took 2 weeks to plump and was a PITA)


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## dj2606 (Mar 27, 2009)

WheeledGoat said:


> =333 gal/hr, wow!


sounds like he should switch to smooth vinyl tubing instead of using the ribbed tubing that comes stock


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## bankruptjojo (Feb 9, 2013)

has anyone tried splitting the inlet? so i can have two, to suck debris on both sides of the tank?


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## Tenor1 (Jan 15, 2012)

bankruptjojo said:


> has anyone tried splitting the inlet? so i can have two, to suck debris on both sides of the tank?


Funny you ask this because I was going to mention it in my response this morning. I've done it using a "Y" connector on my Eheim. One side had an Eheim surface extractor and the other the Eheim pre-filter syphon. I was very happy with that arrangement for many years in a 100-gallon tank.


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## bankruptjojo (Feb 9, 2013)

Tenor1 said:


> Funny you ask this because I was going to mention it in my response this morning. I've done it using a "Y" connector on my Eheim. One side had an Eheim surface extractor and the other the Eheim pre-filter syphon. I was very happy with that arrangement for many years in a 100-gallon tank.


thanks, i might give that a try then. i usually run 2 canisters so not usually a issue but might try only one big one on my 75.


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## shift (Jan 7, 2013)

Is it worth sucking from both ends?

I turned my intake into a giant sponge filter to make or shrimp safe


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