# CO2 Reactor



## Brian A (Sep 3, 2002)

*a big thank you!!*

A few weekends ago DC and I made a modified version of his CO2 Reactor for one of my tanks. All i can say is that the man is a DIY genius!!! He knew off the top of his head what we were going to need and how it fit it all together. We made a version that let me fit my PH Controller in it, that way I am better able to monitor how it is doing. 

I am happy to say that it is working better than I could have expected. Not a leak anywhere and it is very quiet!! If you're lucky, he might start building extras to sell. 

I can't thank you enough for the help DC! 

-Brian


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

DC, 
Do you feel that the Fluval is keeping up with the additional bends and turns that you have added to the outflow? Any additional pump noise?

they make a big deal in their setup manual not to introduce loops and bends in the output line, so was curious as to the condition of the pump as a result of this mod.

thanks. Looks sweet by the way. great idea.


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

gmccreedy said:


> DC,
> Do you feel that the Fluval is keeping up with the additional bends and turns that you have added to the outflow? Any additional pump noise?
> 
> they make a big deal in their setup manual not to introduce loops and bends in the output line, so was curious as to the condition of the pump as a result of this mod.
> ...


I have found the Fluval 4 series to be a very hardy filter, shot CO2 into all the intakes at one time in their lives and still using the original parts. They are all working fine, no noise and great flow. Having said that, keep in mind the 304 is rated for a 70 gallon tank, I have 2 on a 55:




























and 1 on a 37:










The 404 is rated for a 100 gallon tank, I am putting 1 on a 46 bow which is being built right now. Look in my DIY links for more info......DC


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## kkentert (Jan 21, 2007)

don't think it will work on a fluval- but eheim people...Just run the CO2 tube into the intake of you filter! workds like a charm and cost 0 $ and 0 time! If you don't have an eheim follow diablos wonderfully detailed instructions!


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

kkentert said:


> don't think it will work on a fluval- but eheim people...Just run the CO2 tube into the intake of you filter! workds like a charm and cost 0 $ and 0 time! If you don't have an eheim follow diablos wonderfully detailed instructions!


I guess you missed it the first time, read this thread again, CO2 injection into Fluval intakes works but.....you need to have equipment in the tank for that. The goal of my DIY projects are centered around removing all equipment from the tank; all my show tanks now have the equipment below the tank out of view......DC


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## esarkipato (Jul 19, 2005)

What is the name for the small brass peices that the filter hoses/co2 hose hooks into?

Also, do you apply anything to the PVC threads to prevent leaks?


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

The small brass piece is called a pipe nipple or hose barb. I prefer not to have brass in contact with my aquarium water. So I use nylon barbs. You can see how I build my reactors in my Guide.

And yes you have to apply something to the PVC threads.


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## lillou (Apr 1, 2007)

Ernie

You apply tefllon tape to the threads. 

If you can get the nylon hose adapters thy are better than the brass.


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

The brass pieces I use are adapters and barbs. Nylon is not better than brass, they both work fine as can be seen if you follow my projects or have one of my reactors; as with most other things it is a matter of preference. Some fittings are hard to locate, PM me if you need fittings or a reactor. There are several folks using this type of reactor (I will make you one for cost/shipping plus a lb. of starbucks, it includes a mount, check valve, extra bio balls, CO2 probe mount if you want the DC2 model and CO2 tubing). Use loctite on brass, teflon tape on pvc. I also use all purpose glue for the pvc joints instead of the convential purple crap.......DC


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## kkentert (Jan 21, 2007)

Hey Diablo- I did miss that. Sorry. Good instructions.


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

5/8" ID-3/4" OD from Lowes. Any thinner on the OD will eventually collapse/kink the hose......DC


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## frozenbarb (Dec 16, 2006)

kk Thanks DC..

Do you think i will find all the stuff i need at a home depot?
for a reactor and hose?


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

frozenbarb said:


> kk Thanks DC..
> 
> Do you think i will find all the stuff i need at a home depot?
> for a reactor and hose?


For my reactors, I get parts at Lowes and Menards. Lowes has a good selection of pvc and brass fittings but Menards is the place for nylon barbs. If you do not have a Lowes or Menards around there, let me know what you need and I'll pick it up for you.......DC


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## rcalzadilla (Sep 9, 2007)

Thanks for the great info and pictures


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## HaWk16 (Dec 2, 2007)

one question for your newer reactor
why would you keep the probe in with the Co2 intake?
wouldnt that interfere with the probe since their would be more co2 in that localized area?
just wonderin, im a bit new to all this

~HaWk16


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

HaWk16 said:


> one question for your newer reactor
> why would you keep the probe in with the Co2 intake?
> wouldnt that interfere with the probe since their would be more co2 in that localized area?
> just wonderin, im a bit new to all this
> ...


Probe is upstream of the CO2 port, flow is top to bottom in the picture. The water flow will push the CO2 into the bio balls and then into the tank. It is working just fine, I am using 3 of them with no problems.....DC


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## PRESTON4479 (Mar 22, 2007)

I have the probe downstream of my co2 intake and it doesn't seem to make a difference. It still works great. 

Brian


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## Tdon1md (Jun 3, 2007)

There are tons and tons of plans online that can help you to build a diy reactor. Here's but one to give you some options. I love the venturi loop on Tom's. It really made a difference on the efficiency of my system.

Tom Barr's diy venturi reactor thread.
________
Volcano vaporizers


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## frozenbarb (Dec 16, 2006)

What is the thickness of your reactor ? I just made one that is 1"1/2 thick and 22 inchs long


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## Tdon1md (Jun 3, 2007)

I made mine from 2" PVC but depending on flow and tank size, 1.5 might do as well.
________
Paxil settlement update


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

Just noticed while reviewing this thread to prep building a reactor that I did not provide information on making a DC2 reactor. I should be building a couple sometime this week and will update the post.....DC


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

*DC2 Reactor Parts and Preliminary Layout*

If your goal is to inject CO2 into the water column through an inline external CO2 reactor and you would like to get that ugly CO2 probe out of your tank the DC2 reactor may be for you. We will be making 2 CO2 reactors with inline CO2 probes for a Fluval and Eheim. Most of the below parts were purchased from the local Lowes, some at Menards, and online:










1.5 inch 90 degree sch 40 pvc (need 2)










1.5 inch "T" sch 40 pvc (need 1)










1.5 inch reduced to .5 inch threaded bushing sch 40 pvc (need 3)










1.5 inch reduced to .5 inch threaded "T" sch 40 pvc (need 1)










.5 inch x .25 inch male pipe to FIP hex brass bushing (need 1)










1/8 inch brass barb x .25 inch MIP (need 1)










.5 inch x .5 inch nylon barb to MIP elbow (need 2)










1 inch bio ball (need 6)










.5 inch probe compression fitting used to hold PH probe (need 1) you need to use this type and I purchased mine @ http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaticL...g_Probes-AquaticLife-AK01033-FITERPPO-vi.html if you try to use a different type it may leak or the threads will not adapt to pvc; your call you really are on your own here.










.5 inch probe compression fitting exploded view










5/8 inch barb on left for Fluval, 1/2 inch barb on right for Eheim










All purpose cement

Approximately 16 inches of 1.5 inch sch 40 pvc will also be used for each reactor.

Size of filter return will dictate nylon barb size, i.e., Fluval 5/8 inch return = 5/8 inch barb, Eheim 1/2 inch return = 1/2 inch barb, etc.










This reactor is being built for an Eheim; 1/2 inch nylon barbs will be used.










This reactor is being built for a Fluval; 5/8 inch nylon barbs will be used


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## DiabloCanine (Aug 26, 2005)

*DC2 Reactor Parts*

Putting it all together:

1. Lay the pvc pieces out the way they go together (study photos) and calculate how you need the ends and "T"s to be oriented for your setup (look at the photos above or of my tanks in links below).

2. Cut 3 pieces of 1.5 inch PVC, 2 pieces @ 4 inches and 1 piece @ 8 inches.

3. Using All-purpose glue found in the pvc aisle at Lowes start at one end and glue the pieces together (if you do not know what your doing get some help so this does not turn into a big mess). Use teflon tape for nylon to pvc threaded fittings and locktite red for brass threads.










Make sure you insert the bio balls before you glue the last bushing into the 90 degree ends.










Additionally, tighten the hose barbs into the bushings before gluing them into the 90 degree ends so you can orient them correctly.

4. Leak check BEFORE connecting to your tank, if the consequences are not apparent you really should not be doing DIY.

5. Connection and mounting photos are above and contained in my tank links below; I think Justin will add some photos after he gets the ones we made here connected and running.










Starting from the left we have 90 degree fitting, 4 inch pvc, T fitting (probe holder), 4 inch pvc, T fitting (Co2 injection), 8 inch pvc, 90 degree fitting. The reactor is approx. 23 inches long.

The input for the reactor (on the left in above picture) comes from your filter and is the TOP of the reactor.
The output of the reactor (on the right in above picture) goes to your tank and is the BOTTOM of the reactor.
Notice the orientation and location of the probe holder compared to the orientation and location of the brass fitting which is the input for the CO2. The water flows past the probe holder before the CO2 injection port so a "false" reading is not obtained by water flowing over the probe that was just injected with CO2.

There are numerous ways of making CO2 reactors, this post is about how I made mine (and several for friends). This design has been functioning very well for several years for everyone that has one. You may get gurgling noises for up to a week or 2 until the reactor/filter gets done "burping" air out of the plumbing. On the first ones I made I installed a removable bushing that could be removed to clean the bio balls and reactor; I do not install a removeable bushing anymore. Why? Well I have yet to clean any of my reactors and if I do a garden hose will take care of it outside. I am sorry but I do not have time to make reactors for folks anymore; I do hope the above information will allow you or someone assisting you in making one of these CO2 reactors. If you live close to me we can make arrangements to get one of these made for you......DC


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