# API ammonia test - inaccuracies



## Catherine Arnold (May 9, 2018)

Hi Everyone, I have been reading about false positive Ammonia API kit. Everytime I test it looks slightly green sort of between 0 and 0.25. 

I just took the reading as in between and went on with my life. however I tested this morning with the same result and went to work leaving the test tube on the side. 8 hours later I have come home and it is showing the BRIGHT yellow. Exactly the reading of 0. So my question is... is it that the case of the false positive results are because people are not leaving it long enough and the standard 5 mins isnt sufficient?

Or leaving it for hours has changed my results and actually I have a reading between 0 and 0.25?


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

Haha I had the EXACT same thing happen. My API ammonia test has always been slightly green, I never cared too much. Two days ago I did a test, got slightly green, and for the first time left the test tube for a few hours. When I came back... straight, clear-as-day yellow. I think their tests are just not that accurate.


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## Catherine Arnold (May 9, 2018)

So which reading should you use? I think I may do a test on tap water. I will share my results


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

I'm no chemist, but I'm pretty sure the ammonia would have no where to go/nothing to react with while in the test tube, and so the initial reading ofslightly green was likely a false positive. 


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

MCFC said:


> I'm no chemist, but I'm pretty sure the ammonia would have no where to go/nothing to react with while in the test tube, and so the initial reading ofslightly green was likely a false positive.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



API "swears" that that isn't possible..
That said, except for tap water none of my tanks usually were ever yellow but never more than est. .25
example








Always has been a mystery.
Odd thing is in tank discs never were anything but yellow.











Personally, I think it's an illusion.
do the test and try holding the vial at 45 degrees (not real necessary) w/ white paper behind it and indirect sunlight in front of it, like over your shouldr..


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

Each api test has a time you must wait before reading it. Some will degrade after that time and turn all sorts of weird. Like that one turns a deep yellow after a few hours, then another day later it will leave residue in the test vial and mess up the next test unless you scrub the inside. For the ammonia test, typically if it’s near zero it’s the color you’ll looking at, not the yellow on the sheet but yellowish. The sheets yellow doesn’t match very well. However once you get into the green it will match pretty easily. API mentions looking up through the bottom to see if there is any hint of green, which helps but most likely if it’s that hard to tell your fine. That’s my 2 cents.


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## corgifishkeeper (Apr 27, 2018)

I have the same problem. My ammonia test is never bright yellow post cycle, the same results with different test strips when I bought water to the chain store and have them test for me also. I even tested DI water, and I get the exact same color, so I just ignore it. And it does turn yellow after a few hours too. 

If you test for nitrite or nitrate, the opposite is true. Right now my nitrate PPM is always around 5 PPM after 5 min, but if I leave it out for few hours and come back the color will turn darker and it's closer to 10 PPM, which either is fine with me. But when I was cycling my tank, my nitrite level around 1-2 PPM and nitrate level was around 20-40 PPM after 5 min, it will get so dark after a few hours that's darker than the highest level on the color chart. But in my experience the color is pretty much indistinguishable to the naked eye when it's high, if you see dark red for nitrate, you need to do water change more frequently anyway.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Ben3721 said:


> Each api test has a time you must wait before reading it. Some will degrade after that time and turn all sorts of weird. Like that one turns a deep yellow after a few hours, then another day later it will leave residue in the test vial and mess up the next test unless you scrub the inside. For the ammonia test, typically if it’s near zero it’s the color you’ll looking at, not the yellow on the sheet but yellowish. The sheets yellow doesn’t match very well. However once you get into the green it will match pretty easily. API mentions looking up through the bottom to see if there is any hint of green, which helps but most likely if it’s that hard to tell your fine. That’s my 2 cents.


Yep,that's why the kits come with directions, and time for reactions/readings.
Just as likely the tester, rather than the test kit at fault.
Hold your finger over the vial instead of capping it, and skin cells /oils, might give wonky reading.
Too much water,too much solution,Ditto.
Shake the bottle too long ,or not long enough,Maybe true reading,maybe not.
Let the vial set too long, or not long enough.(why?)
Residues from previous test's still in the vial (clean em).
Inability of some to follow direction of any kind.
I am suspicious of test kit's as well as tester's.


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## Ben3721 (Jan 20, 2018)

^ I agree. Api actually makes great instructions that actually matter. Learned that the hard way too many times. Very hard way... like accidentally dosed my tank a month ago to 80+ nitrates kind of deal...


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

Ben3721 said:


> Each api test has a time you must wait before reading it.





roadmaster said:


> Yep,that's why the kits come with directions, and time for reactions/readings.
> Just as likely the tester, rather than the test kit at fault.
> Hold your finger over the vial instead of capping it, and skin cells /oils, might give wonky reading.
> Too much water,too much solution,Ditto.
> ...





Ben3721 said:


> ^ I agree. Api actually makes great instructions that actually matter.


Did you not read OP's first post? She mentioned the 5 mins so she's aware of the instructions. She also said she left the test tube on its side for 8 hrs, so unlikely she was capping it with her finger the whole time... And the ammonia test doesn't involve shaking the bottle...


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

MCFC said:


> Did you not read OP's first post? She mentioned the 5 mins so she's aware of the instructions. She also said she left the test tube on its side for 8 hrs, so unlikely she was capping it with her finger the whole time... And the ammonia test doesn't involve shaking the bottle...



As mentioned with the test kit's ,being aware of instruction's,, does not ensure the instructions are always followed.I'm aware of speed limit's but do not always adhere.
If following API ammonia test instructions,and color is anything but yellow,,then it don't much matter what the color is 8 hours later,or six minutes later.

API website instructions /video for ammonia test.(video's out there)
Fill clean vial with water to the mark on the vial.
8 drops of regent from bottle #1
8 drops of regent from bottle # 2
Shake vigourosly or invert several times.(In written instructions as well as video).
Can't get much more plain.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

roadmaster said:


> As mentioned with the test kit's ,being aware of instruction's,, does not ensure the instructions are always followed.I'm aware of speed limit's but do not always adhere.


Almost like being aware of what a comma, period, or apostrophe is but not knowing how to use them?



roadmaster said:


> If following API ammonia test instructions,and color is anything but yellow,,then it don't much matter what the color is 8 hours later,or six minutes later.


Hahaha! Why not? Can you explain what is happening to make the test result invalid after 6 minutes? 



roadmaster said:


> API website instructions /video for ammonia test.(video's out there)
> Fill clean vial with water to the mark on the vial.
> 8 drops of regent from bottle #1
> 8 drops of regent from bottle # 2
> ...


You're still missing the point of this thread...


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

OP could do a lot worse listening to you babble.
I simply stated the proper test procedure(you clearly didn't /don't know),, and possible reasons for inaccurate readings which IS the point of this thread.
Your question as to why test kit result's may vary,, was already addressed in my previous post. 
As for my use of comma's,,,, and or periods.... I am aware that it irritates some,,,and that pleases me.


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## MCFC (Feb 12, 2017)

roadmaster said:


> OP could do a lot worse listening to you babble.
> I simply stated the proper test procedure(you clearly didn't /don't know),, and possible reasons for inaccurate readings which IS the point of this thread.
> Your question as to why test kit result's may vary,, was already addressed in my previous post.
> As for my use of comma's,,,, and or periods.... I am aware that it irritates some,,,and that pleases me.




Haha! It's ok to be wrong. You don't have to get so upset! 

But I don't think OP was looking for you to tell her the instructions that she clearly already knew. She was wondering why it would always show slightly positive and then all of a sudden change over time. I've had the same experience, and would like to know why that happens. You clearly have no clue why it happens, other than it's not in the instructions (haha!), so feel free to move along  


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## DiscusStu (Mar 6, 2017)

Run two ammonia tests simultaneously. One with commercial distilled water (Wal-Mart) and the other on tank water. Compare the two. It will give you an idea of what zero should look like and it's easier to spot a green tint comparing two tubes of liquid than using a color chart.

Distilled (left), tank water (right):










Same but with a more sensitive test:










Tank water is 0.05 ppm.


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## Charcoleman (Sep 23, 2018)

*Ammonia readings*

Thanks, photo of test and distilled water was most helpful!


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## Bgibson135 (Feb 26, 2021)

This is a pic of the ammonia tests respectively in my new tank, a cycled tank and my tap, I see a slight green hue in all 3 but wanted to ask y’all what you thought? In my new tank (1 week old) I have a hard time thinking it’s already cycled but if it is a zero ammonia, My nitrites also tested zero and nitrates are 5ppm. I did a fishless cycle with using the dirty water from my beta tank every other day for the past week. I am using the fluval stratum and some dragon rock. I tested some RO water after and got same results.


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## Bgibson135 (Feb 26, 2021)

Bgibson135 said:


> This is a pic of the ammonia tests respectively in my new tank, a cycled tank and my tap, I see a slight green hue in all 3 but wanted to ask y’all what you thought? In my new tank (1 week old) I have a hard time thinking it’s already cycled but if it is a zero ammonia, My nitrites also tested zero and nitrates are 5ppm. I did a fishless cycle with using the dirty water from my beta tank every other day for the past week. I am using the fluval stratum and some dragon rock. I tested some RO water after and got same results.
> View attachment 1026508


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Bgibson135 said:


> View attachment 1026510


First, be aware that you are posting on 3-year-old thread and may want to start a new thread.

Concerning your issue; off hand, my first question would be to ask what the source of your expected ammonia might be. Usually, when we fishless cycle, we add ammonia or ammonium. I see no indication that you've done that. So, that may explain why you have no ammonia or nitrite readings. The nitrate readings may simply be from the water you added from your other tank. You can cycle without adding NH3/NH4, but it would be a longer process and you might not have typical spikes that are seen when NH3/NH4 is added. Still, you would need to add something, such as fish food, to start/maintain the BB colony.


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## Bgibson135 (Feb 26, 2021)

Thank you for the feedback! Took sample of water to fish store, they said it was a zero reading to them. As for the water it contained poop and uneaten food siphoned from my beta/ snail tank so I would assume it would be a source of ammonia too? Did a 50% water change and added 3 little endler guppies, 2 snails and a few more plants today, going to keep checking my water chems and see where we go. I am noticing the fluval stratum is really lowing my pH, out of tap my water is 7.8, but the tank is sitting at 6.8. Hoping water changes don’t stress out my tank inhabitants with the swing each time. Thanks!


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Bgibson135 said:


> Thank you for the feedback! Took sample of water to fish store, they said it was a zero reading to them. As for the water it contained poop and uneaten food siphoned from my beta/ snail tank so I would assume it would be a source of ammonia too? Did a 50% water change and added 3 little endler guppies, 2 snails and a few more plants today, going to keep checking my water chems and see where we go. I am noticing the fluval stratum is really lowing my pH, out of tap my water is 7.8, but the tank is sitting at 6.8. Hoping water changes don’t stress out my tank inhabitants with the swing each time. Thanks!


You will probably be fine. Aggressive cycling isn't all that necessary. You can accomplish it in a gradual approach by not adding too many fish initially and strictly limiting their feeding. Plants also go a long way toward supporting a gradual BB development. Just keep an eye on ammonia for a while, until you are sure you are safe. As long as your pH is below 7, the ammonia will be in the safer ammonium form, so your fish will be fine.


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## Bgibson135 (Feb 26, 2021)

Bgibson135 said:


> Thank you for the feedback! Took sample of water to fish store, they said it was a zero reading to them. As for the water it contained poop and uneaten food siphoned from my beta/ snail tank so I would assume it would be a source of ammonia too? Did a 50% water change and added 3 little endler guppies, 2 snails and a few more plants today, going to keep checking my water chems and see where we go. I am noticing the fluval stratum is really lowing my pH, out of tap my water is 7.8, but the tank is sitting at 6.8. Hoping water changes don’t stress out my tank inhabitants with the swing each time. Thanks!





Deanna said:


> You will probably be fine. Aggressive cycling isn't all that necessary. You can accomplish it in a gradual approach by not adding too many fish initially and strictly limiting their feeding. Plants also go a long way toward supporting a gradual BB development. Just keep an eye on ammonia for a while, until you are sure you are safe. As long as your pH is below 7, the ammonia will be in the safer ammonium form, so your fish will be fine.


thank you! Do you think a pH of 6.5 is too low for the BB to get going? Tested today after that WC yesterday but fed fish 2x lightly. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all zero but pH is at 6.5. Thank you for your help! 



Bgibson135 said:


> thank you! Do you think a pH of 6.5 is too low for the BB to get going? Tested today after that WC yesterday but fed fish 2x lightly. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all zero but pH is at 6.5. Thank you for your help!


Free tank and previous owner scratched it to hell but looking pretty great otherwise! Hoping I can get away with no CO2 supplementation. New LED light (12W) arriving next week!


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## Deanna (Feb 15, 2017)

Bgibson135 said:


> thank you! Do you think a pH of 6.5 is too low for the BB to get going? Tested today after that WC yesterday but fed fish 2x lightly. The ammonia, nitrite and nitrate are all zero but pH is at 6.5. Thank you for your help!
> 
> 
> 
> ...


pH 6.5 is perfectly fine. You can "get away" without adding CO2. It is probably more common to find planted tanks without CO2 than it is having it. There are carbon supplement that can help where CO2 is not employed. These are products such as Seachem's Excel or NilocG's Enhance. 

The only thing to be careful about is the amount of light. Make sure that the light intensity is designed for a low-tech setup. PAR values will help making this determination.


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## Crystalfish (25 d ago)

MCFC said:


> Did you not read OP's first post? She mentioned the 5 mins so she's aware of the instructions. She also said she left the test tube on its side for 8 hrs, so unlikely she was capping it with her finger the whole time... And the ammonia test doesn't involve shaking the bottle...


The ammonia test says shake for 5 seconds


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