# Too much light? Algae problems.



## bweazel (Apr 30, 2009)

Morning, all. I have just recently set up my new aquarium. It is a 38 gallon, 36" long 12" deep 20" tall. I have 2x39 watt 6,000K bulbs on it right now. The plants seem to be growing well, but algae is growing right along side them.

This is a pretty new tank, only a couple of weeks old now. But over the past 5 or so days, I've been noticing algae starting to form. Hair algae, and GDA or GSA. It comes off pretty easy, so I'm thinking it is GDA. 

Is the 2x30 too much light? I'm injecting CO2 also at about 1-2 bps. I heard CO2 injection will stop algae from forming, but the algae seems to be loving it. I noticed it develop first at the diffuser, then along the path that the CO2 bubbles flow, then the GDA spread out from there. The hair algae has developed on my driftwood I have in there. 

I use Amazonia, so it's been a bit of a struggle to get the pH up higher. The last time I tested it was around 6.3-6.5. Does low pH stimulate algae growth?

Other parameters: Ammonia: 4ppm / Nitrite 2ppm / Nitrate 20ppm / KH: 2 / GH: 4 / 12 hours of light (8am - 8pm). I added some Seachems Flourish last week also, and put 3 or so API root tabs in there when I first set up the tank two weeks ago.

Are algae problems common within the first month of a new tank? If so, how long should it be before it goes away or lessens? Is anything else standing out to anyone that could be causing excessive algae?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, all.


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## Onyx165 (Jul 16, 2013)

Your light schedule is far too long; 6-8 hours a day would be much better this early in your aquarium's life cycle. Never use a photoperiod more than 10 hours with that much light. 

Don't worry about your pH. That number is to be expected with amazonia aquasoil, and no link between algae growth and pH has been shown, as far as I know. 

You're getting algae growth due to *too much lighting*, *high ammonia*, and *too few plants*. BPS is a very poor measure of CO2; try using a KH/pH chart (http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/12022-CO2-pH-KH-table) or set up a 4dKH drop checker for a more accurate guess at what your CO2 levels are. You should also start doing large water changes to reduce the ammonia the aquasoil is releasing, and throw in some fast growing stem/floating plants to help absorb it.

Add way more plants (from what I've seen in your tank link), substantially reduce the lighting, and perform large water changes every few days


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Floating Hortworth would be great if available.
Rotala are fairly fast growing and Hygro is also. Both will help/w
algae. Get a couple of bunches and plant individually. You can always throw them out later to use a type you like better. But lots of plant growth is what you want now.
I would start off/w 6.5 hrs on the lights. That is(depending on which brand/type bulbs) a fairly high level of light. Also depends on the brand of fixture.
Pictures of the algae as close/clear as possible will help.
Too much light/w poor plant growth = algae.
With that much light and CO2 you will need to use ferts. Real ferts.
Fish food/waste will support some plants in low light and without CO2.
But those things encourage faster plant growth and then they need help
on the nutrients as the fish food/waste is not enough.


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## bweazel (Apr 30, 2009)

Onyx165 said:


> Your light schedule is far too long; 6-8 hours a day would be much better this early in your aquarium's life cycle. Never use a photoperiod more than 10 hours with that much light.
> 
> You're getting algae growth due to *too much lighting*, *high ammonia*, and *too few plants*. BPS is a very poor measure of CO2; try using a KH/pH chart (http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/12022-CO2-pH-KH-table)
> 
> Add way more plants (from what I've seen in your tank link), substantially reduce the lighting, and perform large water changes every few days


Thanks for the advice, I'll adjust the lighting schedule when I get home. I've been doing 50% water changes twice a week. Should that be sufficient?



Raymond S. said:


> Floating Hortworth would be great if available.
> Rotala are fairly fast growing and Hygro is also. Both will help/w
> algae.
> I would start off/w 6.5 hrs on the lights. That is(depending on which brand/type bulbs) a fairly high level of light. Also depends on the brand of fixture.
> ...


Hah, thanks Raymond... you're always helping me, man. So then Seachems Flourish won't cut it? Do you recommend liquid or hard ferts? I'll add some pics when I get home.


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## klibs (May 1, 2014)

-Too much light
-Too long of a photoperiod
-Probably not enough plant mass (common problem with new tanks - you should pack it with plants)
-Improper fert regimen - you need more than Flourish / root tabs. Don't pussyfoot around here - just buy dry ferts right off the bat. They are way cheaper in the long run and will last you forever. Dose proper NPK macros + micros.
-Ammonia levels harming plants / is counter-productive. Not as harmful as it would be with fauna but plants also do not like to be poisoned and will not be able to take in as many nutrients.

New tanks are hard. Once you get good plant mass, good fert regimen, and balance things out you will be in better shape. Then you can ramp up your lights to maximize results. ONLY once you can handle a low-light setting.

IMO you should lower your light levels IMMEDIATELY and see what happens from there. Starting out on full blast = algae. I am assuming you have 2x T5HO bulbs which can be quite high amounts of light. Way more than your tank is able to handle right now and it is letting you know it. You simply do not have the plant mass / available nutrients to use all that light energy so the algae is taking advantage (that's basically how it works)

Also spot treat any particularly bad spots of algae with Flourish Excel / hydrogen peroxide to kill off any particularly bad sections (if it's bad). This will help level the playing field again.

High light setups are very difficult at first and you are probably in for a good 1-2 months of frustration as you learn. Tough it out and it will be worth it in the end - I was in the same spot like 4-5 months ago and my tank keeps getting better and better as it becomes established.

+1 to both responses you have received so far as well. all of that is good advice in my book


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## bweazel (Apr 30, 2009)

klibs said:


> -Too much light
> IMO you should lower your light levels IMMEDIATELY and see what happens from there. Starting out on full blast = algae.
> 
> Also spot treat any particularly bad spots of algae with Flourish Excel / hydrogen peroxide to kill off any particularly bad sections (if it's bad).
> ...


I appreciate the input. I will knock them back to 10:30-5:00 when I get home. Seems reasonable from what you guys have been saying.

The algae isn't SO bad yet... but I can see it becoming a problem more and more each day, so I'd rather nip it in the butt now rather than dealing with a full on bloom here next week.

Everyone keeps saying this is a high light set up. I thought I was going mid light to lower light from some of the other tanks I've seen on here. I mean some of these people are pushing 4 T5HO's over a tank my size, 4 watts per gallon type stuff, I didn't think my lights were considered "high lighting". 

Ya... for sure, good advice all around. Newbie mistakes here, hah.

On a side note, over the past 4-5 days, the rotala has been growing very large leaves and looks to be taking off. And I have some cabomba on the way... so we'll see how that works out.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

Actually between Tetra Pride and Flourish, they contain all of the nutrients. But fairly low levels of them.
I was trying to dose liquids and just gradually bough the dry ones to go/w it. The KNO3 was the first one of the dry I got and shorty after I got the KH2PO4. I got these from the Bay because I could get smaller quantities there. When they run out I'll get it by the Lb from here.
But they came from two overseas countries and the thought always kept
passing through my mind(after I ordered them)as to what Homeland thought about my receiving a package of Ammonia Nitrate from Pakistan...bet that went over big. Even though it was only about 6 Oz of it.
But back to the real world...I then started getting the dry from here
but as I haven't run out of the first bought yet I only got CSM+B and iron the last time. Oops and K2SO4 also.
In one of my tanks(both 10g, same ferts)the light comes on at 8:30A and back off at 11:00, then back at 1:15 till 6:00P.
I work nights so it comes on just when I get home(and since sun up is before then the fish don't freak when they come on as the sun has the room
light enough for them to see in)and then the lights come on again before I get up to go to work.


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## bweazel (Apr 30, 2009)

Raymond S. said:


> But they came from two overseas countries and the thought always kept
> passing through my mind(after I ordered them)as to what Homeland thought about my receiving a package of Ammonia Nitrate from Pakistan...bet that went over big.


LOL! :hihi: Yup... you're on the watch list now  I've never used dry ferts before. Do you just measure the desired amount and plop it in the tank? Or are you supposed to measure the desired amount and put it into a small cup, stir it until it's broken down, then add it? I was looking on GLA at their dry ferts, and they also sell bottle to store the ferts, but it looks like what they're advertising are liquid ferts, unless you just premix portions of the bag into their dispensers. Not sure...



Raymond S. said:


> In one of my tanks(both 10g, same ferts)the light comes on at 8:30A and back off at 11:00, then back at 1:15 till 6:00P.
> I work nights so it comes on just when I get home(and since sun up is before then the fish don't freak when they come on as the sun has the room
> light enough for them to see in)and then the lights come on again before I get up to go to work.


I would like to do something like this, because it bums me out that I don't get to see the tank lit up before I go to work now since I've adjusted the lighting schedule. Does this method not mess with their circadian rhythm though?


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## FatherLandDescendant (Jul 24, 2014)

bweazel said:


> Thanks for the advice, I'll adjust the lighting schedule when I get home. I've been doing 50% water changes twice a week. Should that be sufficient?


 If it works for you it's fine, though EI has 1X 50% weekly. I change about 75% a week in my 40b, but over dose ferts quite a bit.



bweazel said:


> Hah, thanks Raymond... you're always helping me, man. So then Seachems Flourish won't cut it? Do you recommend liquid or hard ferts? I'll add some pics when I get home.


Powered ferts are much more cost effective. Have you used a fert calculator? 

http://rota.la/

With that one you can see how much liquid flourish products you should be using to meet EI levels.




bweazel said:


> Do you just measure the desired amount and plop it in the tank? Or are you supposed to measure the desired amount and put it into a small cup, stir it until it's broken down, then add it?


I use a 1/8th tsp measuring spoon and just sprinkle the dry powders straight into the tank, though I do still use Flourish ironroud:




bweazel said:


> I was looking on GLA at their dry ferts, and they also sell bottle to store the ferts, but it looks like what they're advertising are liquid ferts, unless you just premix portions of the bag into their dispensers. Not sure...


Some people make a liquid from the powders and dose that, either way is fine.

As I posted above I just put the powders straight into the tank. I have small plastic containers with the lids marked with which powder is in said container. Take containers over to the tank, scoop 1/8tsp sprinkle across the surface of the water in the stream from the canister filter discharge and done.



bweazel said:


> I would like to do something like this, because it bums me out that I don't get to see the tank lit up before I go to work now since I've adjusted the lighting schedule. Does this method not mess with their circadian rhythm though?


As long as they have 8 to 10 hours of dark your good:icon_wink


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