# Glass lined masonary tank.



## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

How long are the panes going to be? Are you basically using the glass as tiles, or do you want to use them as viewing windows?


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The den-side is viewing but the other 3 will basically be one huge tile each.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Do you have any earthquakes there? Masonry is very rigid, unable to flex with earth movements. I think glass bonded to masonry would tend to crack with even minor earth movement. Then, there is the thermal expansion to think about. The water in the tank would tend to hold everything at a stable temperature, but I don't know off hand whether the coefficient of thermal expansion for glass and bricks would be enough different to lead to problems. Glass bends when you apply stress to it, so if the support behind that thin glass, by the bricks, isn't even, you could cause a stress concentration that might lead to cracks. But, using a thick enough layer of silicone adhesive might solve all of the above potential problems.

Please, take lots of photos and share them with us. This is a very interesting idea.


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## VisionQuest28 (Apr 18, 2007)

Yes, i would love to see pics of this! Just wondering though, if you have built masonry tanks before with no real issues...why even bother with the glass? Im guessing for maintenance issues...i would guess brick and mortar grows AND holds algae like nothing else! Which really isnt necessarily a bad thing. Just extra filtration, i almost never clean the back walls on my tanks for this reason. Anyway, just to say again...i would love to see some pics of this!!!


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

essabee said:


> What I intend to do next with this tank; is something I have never done before - line the 3 masonry sides with glass.


Have you considered painting it with epoxy paint instead? That stuff isn't cheap, but it will be easier to coat the masonry compared to lining it with glass.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

No earthquakes till the ultimate one which would convert me into a diamond. 

I chose silicone sealant to attach the glass for the reason that expansion and pressure points would be isolated with its cushion effect.

A smooth surface not only allows cleaning but also a surface for attachment of the several gadgets we aquarium hobbyist need in our tank.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Would this be a workable idea for plywood tanks too? The advantage would be that you could use thin, therefore cheap and easy to handle glass. But, I admit, the epoxy seems like a more doable process.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Epoxy -------- The end result is soooooooo ugly. I rather use thicker glass or go back to my earlier material - granite.


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## BottomFeeder (Jul 26, 2008)

As the group on Badman's said it is a challenge to say the least. Personally I would go with granite for all but the viewing window. It can't help but settle and crack.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

BottomFeeder said:


> As the group on Badman's said it is a challenge to say the least. Personally I would go with granite for all but the viewing window. It can't help but settle and crack.


Wouldn't a good foundation prevent the settling and cracking? Fireplaces have been made of brick for many years, and they aren't especially prone to cracking. If a fireplace is built with an inadequate foundation it will settle and tilt or crack - I once had a house that demonstrated that (after I sold it!)


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## BottomFeeder (Jul 26, 2008)

Yes, foundation is everything. I'm sure he knows what he is doing with the masonry. I have seen lots of fireplaces settle and crack and they weren't holding all of that weight.

I'm thinking more about the glass shifting and cracking though as it potentially settles differently than the masonry around it. Two materials reacting to the environment differently.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The base of this tank has been in place for 7 years. Actually the base was constructed in continuance with the first 1000 litre tank - the 'Incomparable' - and was lying vacant from that time. I housed the incubator of my "Madhatter" DIY CO2 on this base but now that I have a CO2 cylinder, the base has become unoccupied and so this project. It would need an earthquake to move or tilt the base as it is a 4" granite slab built resting on stilts raised from the concrete roof of the floor below.


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## eyebeatbadgers (Aug 6, 2007)

My first thought was what Hoppy mentioned, about pressure points between the masonry and the glass. The glass will inevitably bow outward, toward the masonry. Unless the masonry is glass smooth, there will be points of higher tension, possibly leading to cracks. Just my first thought, good luck with the process!


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Maybe if you use a plaster coat on the bricks, and make it very flat, that would eliminate any problems from pressure points. Of course the silicone would still be needed to cushion the back of the glass. I really would enjoy watching this being built, but photos will be almost as good.

I admit I'm having problem visualizing a 4 inch thick slab of granite sitting on stilts on a roof. Your house would be fascinating to visit - maybe my local aquatic plant club could arrange to hold our September meeting at your place? All we would need is to arrange some quick transportation there and back, so the guys could get back to work the next day.


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## c_sking (Aug 4, 2008)

I would say epoxy coat the concrete and use glass panels like tile except for a gaps to let water equalize behind them. Your in for a lot of issues No matter what you do. Would love to see some pics too.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I have already carefully plastered the bricks with cement mortar paying attention to the plaster being vertical. Intend to smoothen the sides further by applying a thin coat of plaster of Paris and sand-papering the end product when cured. With a silicone coat over that, I don't think I would worry about pressure points building behind the glass.


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## bpimm (Aug 2, 2007)

essabee said:


> I have already carefully plastered the bricks with cement mortar paying attention to the plaster being vertical. Intend to smoothen the sides further by applying a thin coat of plaster of Paris and sand-papering the end product when cured. With a silicone coat over that, I don't think I would worry about pressure points building behind the glass.


This sounds workable, the only issue that comes to mind is how are you going to get the silicone spread out over the whole surface without it skinning over before you get the glass embedded? I have had trouble just resealing a large tank getting the fillets in and smooth before it skins over.

Hoppy, I'm in on your next meeting.:biggrin:


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

bpimm said:


> the only issue that comes to mind is how are you going to get the silicone spread out over the whole surface without it skinning over before you get the glass embedded


I thought about that. What I need is a couple of willing hands (Hoppy and you are invited :icon_lol, anchor the bottom of the glass and keeping the rest of it tilted apply the silicone while straightening and pushing the glass to the wall. I also intend to use a more runny silicone sealant.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

essabee said:


> I have already carefully plastered the bricks with cement mortar paying attention to the plaster being vertical. Intend to smoothen the sides further by applying a thin coat of plaster of Paris and sand-papering the end product when cured. With a silicone coat over that, I don't think I would worry about pressure points building behind the glass.


I should have realized that you would already have done that. You clearly do think through your projects before starting them. But, my mind is still reeling over the idea of a 4 inch thick slab of granite held up by stilts....on a roof! I have a granite kitchen counter top, and once had a couple of big left over pieces of counter top granite, only one inch thick. Those sat on a couple of wood saw horses out behind the house for several years, just because it took 3 guys to carry them that far, and I couldn't lift them to move them, let alone make the coffee table my wife wanted made with them. Granite is heavy -very heavy!


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Hoppy said:


> the idea of a 4 inch thick slab of granite held up by stilts....on a roof!


I built it in situ - so all I carried were the ingredients, that too in parts.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I finally finished all the cement mortar work. Tired! Will take pictures tomorrow to show what I achieved till date. What took time was the curing period before I could remove the scaffolding of the 2 beams it was necessary to cast. The next job I must finish is chipping the concrete roof of the aquarium to enable me to attach white vitreous tiles on its surface. I use the tiles as my reflecting surface. 

The glass for the bottom has been delivered, that goes in first, its 12mm transparent.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I did not realise how tired I was yesterday. I got up 2 hours later than my normal time, and even then did not feel fresh, in fact my body felt leadened and all my actions lethargic. Breakfast and several cups of tea took me through the morning chores. So now feel more the thing, took some quick pictures (not good ones but these will do to give an idea of what I am trying to do. You will see part of my existing tank, "Incomparable", on one side.

View from inside my den:-


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

..................... and the view from the terrace:-


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

That is _very_ cool, and has awesome dimensions. Make an awesome scape! Do you have a picture of the tank next to it?


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

clwatkins10 said:


> That is _very_ Do you have a picture of the tank next to it?


Try the 'View User Tanks' under my avatar.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

That brain of yours just never runs out of ideas, does it?!!

You are by far the most out-of-the-box aquarium designer _I've_ ever come across LOL

This is utterly and completely beyond my scope of expertise, but I'll definitely be watching! Who knows what I might learn! :biggrin:


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Being retired and with 6 dogs, numerous planted tank and my garden to look after, new projects only get so much time as I can spare. The type of work next on the project show what enthusiasm will be applied. As the work was chipping the roof of tank in preparation for the glazed tile work later - I did it in bits and pieces just before bath, as chipping showered me with bits of sand every time brought the hammer into play on the chisel. Now that's behind me- you will see better progress. If you compare the following picture with the second-last that I had earlier attached you will find what I have done last week.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I hated that chipping work so it took a lot of time. I did the plaster of Paris work preparing the masonry surface to take the glass and finished it today.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Is the upper opening to the room there for access to the tank? And, do you intend to use the daylight outside as a supplemental light source? And, how will the front, viewing glass be held in?

This is shaping up very nicely!


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Hoppy said:


> Is the upper opening to the room there for access to the tank? Yes. As the tank has a height of 2 feet and a width of 3 feet, I need to access the tank both from the front and also the rear :smile: Unless I take to ducking into the 'Behemont' like Tom Barr.
> 
> And, do you intend to use the daylight outside as a supplemental light source? When I built the 'Incomparable' the elder twin of this tank seven years ago,it was my intention to use the direct Eastern sunlight in the morning and indirect sunlight for the rest of the day. I followed this routine till my experiment with CO2 and the 'Madhatter System'. The problem with using CO2 is that you need the light to be strong enough to use up the gas. I started having problems on the overcast days of the monsoon when we don't have the sun for weeks. I was forced to supplement the natural light with artificial light. From one problem into another as on bright days I had too much light which had to be monitored, especially when the sun took to hiding and peeping around clouds. So from clear float glass of the Eastern opening (you cannot keep it open or you will invite the dragonflies to lay eggs during the day, and the night time fliers like the great diving beetle, water scorpions etc. to colonise your tank) went through several metamorphosis. Grounded glass, smoky glass, mirror to keep the natural light out and the artificial in, finally the ideal in my case a half mirror smoky enough to allow only a part of the natural light in and reflective enough to keep most of the artificial light in. The variation of the light intensity was finally reduced to acceptable ranges.
> 
> ...


Thank you for your appreciation.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

As the plaster of Paris cured; I took up the work of making the hatch doors. The rear hatch door is in place. The glass chosen for this is a half mirror with the mirror side facing the tank, the hatch opens outwards and hangs. This choice gives me several options - closed, it allows part of the natural light (including direct sunlight) in and also traps most of the aquarium artificial lights; while open I can get a lot of natural light including some reflected in by the mirror.

Today's Sunday, so let me see if I can get a couple of helping hands today, if so I can have the bottom glass laid today.


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## Centromochlus (May 19, 2008)

Wow, this is a very cool project. Looking forward to seeing it completed!

AzFishKid


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I have yet to organize some helping hands for the bottom glass. Meanwhile the front hatch gets put into place, it is yet incomplete as the fittings on it can only be completed after I complete the glazed tile work. The rear of the hatch is a full mirror as I want the entire area of the aquarium top to be reflective. This mirror also ensures that the indirect natural light from the rear hatch is directed to the rear wall of the tank.

I also installed the fan for the aquarium cooling.

I have lots of promises for helping hands this weekend ............. so lets see if I can get some of the glasses up.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Got the sun back after 4 days, so took this picture which demonstrate the light entering from the rear hatch and being reflected by the mirror behind the front hatch.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The helping hands arrived but the time was spent more on discussions about the tank than work on the tank. I did take advantage of the hobbyist to get the bottom glass on the floor of the tank - but that's about all as all thoughts of silicone work disappeared once I found that I have a slight problem.

The floor is level. The glass does fit. The problem is that the right side inner corner is an inch deeper (more behind) than the left corner. I need to fill this gap before doing the silicone work that's all. So I have left the glass in place and have masked its rear with tape. The other masking tapes on the walls and floor are for the spillage of silicone when I take up that work. I will fill the gap with epoxy putty today and let that cure with the glass in place.

I am also adding a schematic cross section drawing (not to scale) to allow you to picture exactly what I am trying to build.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

So the bottom glass is now in place and I took the liberty to climb on top of it and walk all over it. Now I weigh 100 Kgs. so my foot will create a dynamic difference of pressure under it which will be much more than the dead weight of substrate and water. The glass did not crack. So I would expect it to be safe enough to go to the next stage.


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## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

Thank you for posting that schematic. I must admit I have been having some trouble understanding what your plan is from just the photos. This is a very cool project! 
Did you end up supporting the bottom pane on a complete layer of silicone? Or just along the edges? The water/substrate will definitely be a more even load on the glass. I agree that if you can walk on it you should have no problems with the substrate and water...


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Well, if worst comes to worst, you can always use that as an extra bathtub:biggrin: Or, perhaps have a party, with a "girl in the aquarium"??


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The rear glass was delivered. I first put it in and placed it against the rear to see its fit. No problems. Next was to mask the tank side edges, I want these virgin from silicon so when I ultimately seal the tank with silicone; the sealing silicone will not be interfered with by any old paste.

Next job was preparing the rear of the glass (the wall side). Keeping the edges free, I used silicone to attach a 4mm thick polyester pad with light touches of silicone. Next the glass goes back to the tank, a thick bead of silicone is applied to the edges and the glass is firmly pushed against the wall. Then I rest there with my back firmly against the glass. There was no danger of the glass falling back as the silicone had already started to cure but still I use some duck tape to be doubly sure. 

Morning - I inspect my handy work and remove the duck tapes.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Most large aquarium have bracing for safety; why should this tank be different. For the safety of the front (viewing) glass I have external bracing in form of a frame made from 2.25" wide and 0.75" thick black granite fixed to the masonry sides. I put this up today as without it I could not take the measurements of the side glasses.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I got the left side lined with glass using the same method as the rear glass. This glass had to have the right upper corner cut off to accommodate the beam below the front hatch door. The glass on the right has to go through the same treatment with the addition of being drilled.

The preparation before the next stage delays the speed of work especially when you are in need of helping hands.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The right side glass is ready, I have cut the corner and tested the glass by keeping it where it would ultimately go - result acceptable. I then drilled 2 holes, 3" apart at a height which is just above the top stone frame member of the front glass. These holes are meant to take the overflow from the tank into the sump that I intend to create in the storage area next to the tank. I placed the glass against the masonry side of the tank and marked the position of the holes for drilling. 

Tomorrow it is going to be a hammer and chisel day as I carve out the 1" diameter hole through the wall. The only thing that I feel happy about this evening is that the wall is only 5" brick work.


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## Regloh (Jan 17, 2009)

I can't wait to see this full of water... 
I don't think I need to tell you this, but be careful to protect the glass when you do the chisel work 
Keep up the good work!


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The 2 holes are done. I cheated used a drill instead of the hammer and chisel. 

Hope I have help tomorrow to fit the glass.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I made a mess with the third glass.

I attached the pad on the wrong side and had to correct it. This left a lot of silicone paste smeared on the glass. Now I have to spend a lot of elbow grease scraping the silicone off with a shaving blade.

Anyway the third side is now glass lined and the pipes have freely been inserted - that job is done. Now only the beam under the front hatch door requires to be lined with glass. I have taken the measurements and ordered the glass hope it gets delivered early today for me to finish this part of the job.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Where will the water level be in the finished tank? As high as the beam across the top? Now it is easy to see that you are building a glass tank from the inside out, instead of gluing glass together to make a tank. Easier because you don't need to use clamps and fixtures to hold the parts together, but it sure looks hard to get just the right sizes of glass pieces to get everything to fit right. No glass supplier I have used for cabinet door glass windows could even come close to cutting glass that accurately.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Actually it is not that hard to size the glass. The uncertainty is that you do not know exactly what the size of the next glass is till you have got the first one up. So you get the measurement as you go along and order them accordingly. 

There is an added advantage doing it this way - the glass do not have to fit exactly. You don't require the joint between the glass to hold your tank together. The glass being supported by the wall behind it all you need to do is make the space between two glasses water-tight by applying the silicone seal between them.

The first in the wall tank that I built, it was in the orthodox way, a 2 X 2 X 5 all glass tank put into the niche created for it having an inch of space all around it which had to be filled with saw-dust and a wooden panel hid the space in between the glass and the wall.

Even when I built the inspiration for this tank, that too was actually a compromise between the orthodox and this method. There I was building with granite sheets. After laying the floor in the niche I applies polystyrene insulators against the wall and attached the upright sheets with epoxy in the same way as you build a all glass tank.

As to the water level - the top of the beam is the limit before the water overflows out. The bottom level of the pipe is the lower edge of the 3" high beam. I hope to have the water just above this level. I am using 2 X 3/4" drainage pipes and have to try out different sump pumps to see that I achieve the level I wish. I must have some head room for things going wrong (blocked outlet ???? ) so that I don't have an accidental overflow.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I cleaned up the mess I had created yesterday.

The 2 glass strips that I had ordered were delivered and I managed to complete the glass lining work as I had a 2 helpers today.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Is the front, viewing glass the next step? I assume that will be thicker glass. And, I can't see the support frame for that glass, to prevent it from being blown out by the water pressure. Was that why the granite strips were added around the front?


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The front glass will be the last step. Now I must get some white glazed tiles for the tank top. They will act like a reflector and also be easy to clean.

The granite strips have formed a frame behind which the front glass will be fixed. There will be no chance for the water to blow it out.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Started the tile job, slow going as lots of tile cutting involved. Hope to finish tomorrow. These white glazed tiles will act as the reflector. I have put the cooling fan in place although it won't be necessary till next summer.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Finished the tile job. Tomorrow will be a real clean up job as I have smeared so much cement all over the place that a major work awaits me. Please wish me patience as if I am hasty I am sure to mess up something.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

That is looking more spectacular every time you post a picture. I would offer my advice to be patient, but unfortunately, patience isn't one of my virtues, so I have too little for my own use, to be able to spare any for others.

This thread reminds me of cartoons where two children at the beach are making sand castles. One makes a fort with two towers. The other makes a scale model of the Taj Mahal. This thread makes me feel like the first child! (But, I love forts with two towers!):icon_mrgr


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

^ ....... but then Hoppy we both love to build.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

essabee said:


> ^ ....... but then Hoppy we both love to build.


True! When I retired 15 years ago the first thing I did was buy an older house and totally remodel it, adding about 50% more floor area. I did virtually the whole job, most of the time working alone. I'm very pleased that I got that urge tended to, so I never even think of doing that again. Now I make aquarium stands, etc. :icon_mrgr


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Finished the cleanup without messing up anything.

Found that I had to clean up my tool room too. Tomorrow, being the 17th day of September, it is the day dedicated to the Celestial Artisan - namely Vishwakarma - (transliteration Universal Constructor). All of us who work with tools and machines venerate Him and in mark of our respect clean our tools etc. and also the work place. Some go to the extent of installing and idol and praying to Him, I don't. The funny thing here in India is that the cult of Vishwakarma is followed by all sects, even non-Hindus including Muslim artisans (perhaps as it provides a tools down period).

So no progress should be expected on the GLMT for the next 2 days. On Friday I shall construct my in-tank version of the Rex Grigg reactor.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

My version of intank Rex Grigg reactor is in and all that is left to do with it is the plumbing. Before I do that I must build the sump filter as it is going to use the returning water.

I built the reactor using strip of 3.5 inch glass siliconed to the rear corners of the tank. This gives an area of the triangle formed equivalents to the cross-section area of a 2.0 inch diameter pipe. As I would not like my fishes to enter the reactor, I have put a screen over the outlet which is merely a 1.0 inch hole. I made the screen out of the intake grid of the pumps that I had adapted for aquarium use. The pumps that I use for aquarium are not on aquarium supply list, but are manufactured in India for general purpose and have a ceramic magnet, therefore quite safe for aquarium use and also economical and long lasting (I don't know why aquarium goods are overpriced). I cut of the excess and then used epoxy putty to form the base. Silicone does not hold on to plastics but does hold epoxy putty well.

For the top, I took measurement after placing the 3.5 inch strip in place. Actually made a template out of thick paper and then cut the glass accordingly. Drilling a hole in a small piece of glass needed some helping hands to hold the glass. I siliconed this to the top of the 3.5 inch strip and left it overnight to cure.

I fitted the inlet pipe (which went in tight through the hole in the triangle glass) and fixed it with synthetic rubber adhesive using rings that I had sliced out of a socket. I wanted the pipe to end high up in the reactor so that the water current can scrounge the CO2 bubbles that manage to rise to the top of the reactor. I made a hole on the elbow fitting for the top and inserted a gas pipe down to the mouth of the elbow. This should place the gas pipe end close to the mouth of the inlet pipe of the reactor, a natural venturi point, and I hope to get a lot of small bubbles out from it when in use, although that not matter much in the Rex Grigg type of reactor.

I hope all of you appreciate the visual result despite the bad photography.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

A closeup.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Wow! The surprises never end. You did it again, designing a simple, but very effective CO2 reactor, completely hidden in the tank. This has been a very inspiring "journal".


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

My order for the light fittings were deliver last evening so back to the GLMT for execution of the work at hand.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I did put up the MH fittings but as I am waiting for replacement of one of the bulb holders could not complete the job. I am getting impatient too.

When I was putting up the light fittings in the twin tank - Incomparable - 7 years ago, I did not realise what I was doing wrong. This time I have corrected (over corrected??) my mistake. I am posting a picture of the fittings in the Incomparable and the GLMT for comparison.


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## CL (Mar 13, 2008)

Wow! That's one heck of a lighting system!


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## lhscouchmonster (Oct 23, 2009)

great work. you start thinkin bout what you are going to put in the tank at all?


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Wow, this is something else. I have no idea how I missed this whole journal!??

Why do you have the metal halides pointing toward the center? Can the be rotated as needed or is that permanent?

For the life of me, I have no idea how those reactors you built are going to work. The bottom screen is the outlet I presume, but how is flow and CO2 injected into it?


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Also, not sure if these types of fittings are available to you, but these are great for directing flow and giving you the ability to adjust it to fit your scape.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+10090+4090&pcatid=4090

These would something I would consider for the discuarge outlet of those reactors which look like they could be easilty blocked up.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

gmccreedy said:


> Why do you have the metal halides pointing toward the center? Can the be rotated as needed or is that permanent?


I wondered about that too, but I think it is to avoid most of the outer light fixture light from just being overspill, or being directed at the wall above the tank. I wish I had the patience to slowly build up to a filled, planted tank like this. (Typed while gritting my teeth with impatience - I want to see the tank with water, plants and fish in it - NOW!)


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The MH fittings have a U-clamp. The bottom of the U-clamp is fixed to the wall and cannot be swiveled. The actual bulb and reflector assembly is screwed to the 2 arms of the U-clamp, by a single bolt on each side, and allows movement.

I have positioned the clamp angle so that the light is directed away from the side walls, and have the movement of the fitting to adjust the light to be contained between the long walls. This would direct most of the light (including that reflected by the fitting's interior) at the surface of the water. Could not think about anything which could be trouble free and better so ended up doing it this way.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

gmccreedy said:


> For the life of me, I have no idea how those reactors you built are going to work. The bottom screen is the outlet I presume, but how is flow and CO2 injected into it?


It’s a normal reactor the water and the CO2 enters via the elbow shown from the top and exits through the hole at the bottom. The water flow pushes the CO2 bubbles downwards and the buoyancy of the gas resists the force till the CO2 dissolves and leaves with the water into the tank from the bottom of the reactor.

No, I don’t envisage any clogging of the screens as the water which shall be pumped into the reactor comes from the sump filter I intend to construct.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Hoppy said:


> I wish I had the patience to slowly build up to a filled, planted tank like this. (Typed while gritting my teeth with impatience - I want to see the tank with water, plants and fish in it - NOW!)


Hoppy were you never an angler?? I have a time table but I am behind schedule and all that because I am unable to procure what I need in time. I have been waiting for the glass for the sump and the viewing front for 3 days now even after having paid for the order.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

essabee said:


> Hoppy were you never an angler?? I have a time table but I am behind schedule and all that because I am unable to procure what I need in time. I have been waiting for the glass for the sump and the viewing front for 3 days now even after having paid for the order.


Yes, years ago I used to go fishing most weekends, but I became too impatient to sit there half the day waiting for the big one to show up. But, I prefer to refer to myself as "decisive" instead of "impatient".:icon_mrgr


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The glass ordered finally arrived, badly cut and with sharp edges. The glass for the sump after being ground to remove sharp edges has been silicone pasted and what better place to do it in but inside the tank to which it will act as the dedicated sump. There it will out of the way while I work on the plumbing, reflooring, and repainting the broom cabinet to convert it into the sump cabinet. I plan to put all the MH ballast (5 of the GLMT and 5 of the incomparable) in that cabinet. Remember I have an eight inch diameter fan connected on one side to the GLMT (and through it to the Incomparable) and the sump cabinet.

Size 42" X 18" X 18" but I intend to keep the water level at 12".


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

That would make a super Riparium tank! Do you do your own edge grinding, and if so, with what? 

Knowing that tank is 42 inches long, 6 inches longer than my tank, I can now better appreciate how huge that GLMT is! Wow!


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Hoppy said:


> Do you do your own edge grinding, and if so, with what?
> QUOTE]
> 
> For small jobs I use the rough side of the honing stone meant for my wood chisels. For bigger jobs I use a 4" diameter glass/stone polishing wheel with my angular grinder. I always work outdoors for this and use a lot of water and protective glasses, gloves, and dress for I have a healthy fear of flying glass.
> ...


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

It has been over 3 weeks since we had an update on this beautiful tank. How is it proceeding?


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Can a screw, screw up your working? Yes! I found that out the hard way.

The MH fittings that I had acquired online for the GLMT had very good looks, light and were most probably sourced from China, manufactured to American standard. The bulb holders were in pairs for the two ended bulbs neatly built ceramic that were attached to the body of the fittings – with screws. 

The holders felt loose to touch and that I thought was due to loosening of the screws from the vibrations of transit. One of the holder had even come off and broken, I had complained about it and the seller had couriered the replacement promptly. Not expecting any problems, I tried to tighten them using a driver. It was then I found out that some of the screws were too short and just made it to the screw housing of the body of the fittings. I needed longer screws.

Taking one of the screws to match the thread, I searched all the places of the town for the size I needed, I was willing to accept even longer ones for I could always trim them to size, but the thread had to be the same. The thread stumped all my sources as it was American standard and the screws used in this country were usually of British standard. The thread had to be matched; the screw housings were raised tubular structures made of what looked like antimony; too fragile to be tapped to change the thread. The other alternative was using a slimmer, longer screw and then drill through the housing and using a nut on the outside of the body of the fitting. An unacceptable alternative, to be accepted only as a last resort, for it would open out unprotected spots which would corrode in the high moisture atmosphere of the aquarium top, with time. Unless I could match the thread, I was screwed.

A friend was going to Kolkata (Calcutta) to get some supplies for his business and offered to get me the screw if it was available there. Beggars cannot choose, I put the work on GLMT on hold, and decided to wait for the screw. 

It finally arrived yesterday and now the MH are wired and tested and working. My heart is working too, and I now intend to finish the rest of the work


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

When I decided to add the GLMT, I also decided to reorganise the wiring of all my tanks. All the wires that lead to the tank that I have named “Incomparable” went through the GLMT so I was forced to rewire that tank. This requirement caused quite a delay in completion of the GLMT. 

My scheme of reorganisation of the wiring comes from the necessity of relaxing my very strict routine chores. I have decided to use timers for the lights, CO2, and aeration. I have decided to divide the light wires – part of lights will have backup from the inverter – the rest will only be powered when the generator comes on for the longer power outages. All the heaters have to be supplied by a power line without any backup. This means that there are five separate phase lines with one common neutral going to every tank, and another phase line for the solenoid of the CO2.

The six phases:-

1)	Red wire – No backup power line – For the heaters.
2)	Blue wire – Generator backup and photoperiod timer – 2/3 of the lights in each tank.
3)	White wire – Inverter, generator, & photoperiod timer – 1/3 of the lights in each tank.
4)	Green wire – Inverter, generator constant line – For the filter power-heads.
5)	Yellow wire – Inverter, generator & night timer – For the aerations.
6)	Brown wire – Inverter, generator & CO2 timer – For the CO2.

I shall need just 2 timers for this scheme to be possible. I shall use the timers only to run three relays. This will keep the loads on the timer low. The photoperiod timer shall run two separate relays one to connect the blue wires on its on period and the other relay connecting the white wires. The CO2 timer will run a single relay; it will connect the green wire to the yellow wire through NC and the brown wire through the NO.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The wiring is finished. The ballast of both the tanks, GLMT and the Incomparable, are in the sump room. You see the fan which will keep the 2 tanks cool.










Need two volunteers to fix the viewing glass.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

essabee said:


> Need two volunteers to fix the viewing glass.


Sounds like a fun project. Too bad it's a little too far away to just drop in.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

The GLMT is finally a tank. The viewing glass is in position and I will only have to wait for the curing to take place before testing it with water. Meanwhile I must work to complete the sump and the timer system. I shall also have to wire the sump room for lights and the sump pumps, heaters, aerators etc.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

I just filled it up with water to just below the sump overflow level. Now I will spend the next 24 hours with my fingers crossed (for the entire period when I am not working on the sump).

Wish me well.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Congratulations! The first filling is always a nail biting experience. I'm sure it won't leak, having watched the care you put into your tanks.


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## essabee (Oct 7, 2006)

Well, nothing has broken as yet. I can uncross my fingers and not look suspiciously at the GLMT. Now to finish the sump and the timer circuits. I wish to add a 10% daily water change to the GLMT.


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