# Algae Mix - new tank syndrome?



## Karlos5000 (Oct 9, 2006)

That is amazing about the otos. Can't remember anyone else having that happen. 
As a user of AH supply lights myself and someone who has been battling the green fuzz and brown muck in a discus tank, I think you should reduce your lighting period to 6 or 8 hours until you've got things under control. This will allow your plants to get good root bases and should not be a problem with your vals and crypts. 
I don't think your biological filter will have any problem getting sert up in the Eheim with your UV on. That will improve clarity and may help with the diatoms (brown muck)

You've got the right attitude. Its a slow process that will come together as your tank matures.


----------



## Craigalanche (Mar 8, 2008)

Thanks for that Mr K. I just switched down to 7 hrs. Do you think this light period itself will get the algae under control or do you suggest augmenting it with a dosing regime? I'm thinking with such a low light setup/period it will take a long time for the plants to uptake and the algae will get to it first. This is actually why I've been reluctant to use macro ferts. 

Plants are definitely still growing as it is, they're action's just getting horned in on by the fuzz.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Welcome to the forum- we're glad to have ya!  

I'm guessing the "Flourish" product you were using is Excel, and that's what melted your Vals? Unfortunately, that's pretty common.

You might try spot-treating the algae-affected plants with either Excel or hydrogen peroxide instead of dosing the whole tank- that might also help along with the other good measures you're taking.

You definitely need to find the balance between lighting, CO2, ferts, and bioload in order to provide the right conditions where your plants can outcompete algae on their own; not providing the right balance of nutrients actually lets algae get the upper hand. It's a bit of trial and error- but the info on the RexGrigg site is great place to start. You can also buy dry ferts there for a good price, which will end up much cheaper in the long run than using liquid ferts.

GL and keep us posted!


----------



## Craigalanche (Mar 8, 2008)

Thanks! It's great to get feedback from others involved in this conquest :thumbsup:

In response, the product I used was just plain Flourish, not the excel variety.

Some of the leaves on the Hammer plant are really thick with fuzz, others that aren't perpendicular to the light source are pretty clean. I'll probably scrubbie pad the really bad ones lightly this weekend to remove the major stuff or just use my finger if I can get it to come off that way. 

I read that Senior Takashi doesn't trim his plants in a new tank for 3 months but I'm sure he's through getting algae infestations *wink*. I was hoping to adhere to that directive but maybe it would be better to just cut the really bad stuff out? 

My concern is that if I really scrub all the algae off the rocks/leaves etc then the algae will float around to new locations in my tank and start taking over there. I could turn on the UV filter for a few days (sorry Karlos5000, I'm still reluctant to turn it on) to try and zap some of it -or- I could just cut the bad stuff out and wait for new growth although the plants are still pretty new. 

When you scrub algae, do you try netting the aftermath?

Thoughts/Comments?


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I've personally never heard of Flourish comprehensive comprehensive melting vals, but who knows?

The only thing I scrub algae off of is my tank walls- and yes, I do that before a PWC (partial water change) to remove as much of it from the water column as possible afterwards. I also usually replace my filter floss or pad a few days later to remove the algae that's gotten caught in there. If you've got a UV I'd personally consider leaving it on for a day or two also to "zap" the algae you've released into the water column.

If the leaves look like they have a fighting chance, I'd spot-treat them with Excel or hydrogen peroxide- stuff kills the algae on contact. If it looks like they're pretty well covered in algae then you might as well go ahead and prune them out- they won't be able to recover most likely. Judgement call, there.

These are all only bandaid measures, however.

Since you're running about 200watts over a 49gal tank, you either need to get CO2 and serious fert dosing regime going in this tank ASAP or take one of those 96watt bulbs out of your fixture all together. 4 watts per gallon is killer lighting- makes this a very high tech tank and battling algae in it will probably be a way of life for quite a while until you can figure out exactly the "sweet spot" for this tank.

If it were me, I'd just run 1 bulb for the next few months, get the algae under control, get a good understanding of fert dosing and what does and does not work in your particular tank (every tank is a little different) and then once you've got a good handle on things you can jump back up to both 96watt bulbs (if you still want to at that point LOL IMO You really should be able to grow any plant you want to under just one of AHSupply's bulbs...)


----------

