# New here and new low-tech tank



## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Hey Guys....

Been getting alot of info here but this is my first post. I guess (hope) this will be a progressive thread.

I have had a Eclipse 12 for about 14 days. I cycled it for about a week and added my plants. 

Seachem Florite

2 Java Fern
1 Anubias Nana
2 Amazon Swords
2 Anacharis
4 Ludwiga

The ludwiga and the swords had some dead leaves so I had to trim them down a bit. The ludwiga pretty much look like twigs now but I can see little baby leaves coming in.

Everything seems to be doing well. I did have 5 Amazon Swords in there but I didn't realize how big they would get and I think they may have not been getting the proper nutrients since they were all bunched together. I removed 3 of them. I will probably start dosing with excel in the next couple days. Oh yea... 2 Emerald Coys in there now. I am picking up a third tomorrow along with a few Rummeynoses...

Sorry for the crappy pics. One would think a $500 phone would have a better camera. I'll put some better ones up soon.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Welcome to TPT! Glad to have ya!

You need to keep an eye on your water parameters- just setting up a tank and letting it run with plants doesn't necessarily cycle a tank. Now that you have fish in there you will probably start getting some ammonia and nitrITe spikes... I'd wait a few weeks before adding any more fish and pay close attention to those parameters.

If you're just using the standard Eclipse lighting, you may not have enough light to keep stem plants alive. If they're putting out new leaves you may be OK, but I have a feeling that they will only give you leggy growth (more stem than leaves) at best. There are some ways to DIY your lighting to bump it up- check out the DIY forum for that.

You might want to try crypts instead of stem plants if you don't want to alter your Eclipse hood. There are a nice selection that do well under low light.

GL and keep us posted! :thumbsup:


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## SearunSimpson (Jun 5, 2007)

I would not add Rummynose Tetras yet at all. Also, If the Eclipse 12 is 12 gallons, which I think it is (correct me if I'm wrong), Rummies might not be the best choice. They are very active schoolers that like alot of room. But at this point, I would not add them at all, as I have heard they are very sensitive fish, and one or two weeks of cycling is probably not enough. I'd wait another couple weeks doing some partial water changes in there.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Welcome to TPT! Glad to have ya!
> 
> You need to keep an eye on your water parameters- just setting up a tank and letting it run with plants doesn't necessarily cycle a tank. Now that you have fish in there you will probably start getting some ammonia and nitrITe spikes... I'd wait a few weeks before adding any more fish and pay close attention to those parameters.
> 
> ...


I have been checking my parameters and all is good. I am also dosing with Stress Zyme every 7 days. I have decided to hold off on the Tetras for another week probably but I am going to get one more Cory today.

The only thing I have done to the lighting is switch the stock bulb for an OTT-Lite replacement. I have heard they are a good alternative for the Eclipse tanks. There are new leaves coming out of the stem plants but I am starting to think the same thing. May have to yank 'em.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

SearunSimpson said:


> I would not add Rummynose Tetras yet at all. Also, If the Eclipse 12 is 12 gallons, which I think it is (correct me if I'm wrong), Rummies might not be the best choice. They are very active schoolers that like alot of room. But at this point, I would not add them at all, as I have heard they are very sensitive fish, and one or two weeks of cycling is probably not enough. I'd wait another couple weeks doing some partial water changes in there.


I have been seeing the same as far as sensitivity. I will prob go with another type of Tetra. I didn't know about the tank size being an issue though. I thought most Tetras would be ok in at least a 10 gallon. What are some better choices to live with 3 Emerald Corys? I have done (2) 25% water changes already.


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## seAdams (Jun 2, 2008)

Rummynoses are very sensitive, and do need an established, stable tank with excellent parameters. I might choose a species a bit hardier, like black neons in a school of at least 6.

I have flourite as well, and would personally not use it for corydoras. They should have sand or very smooth gravel, as the flourite can over time wear down and cut their sensitive barbels and mouthparts as they dig around for food.


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

ok, before everyone starts eclipse bashing, i will have to put in my two cents. i own one also, at the recommendation of someone else. yes when you first get it it is a daunting experience cause you want to have everything growing, you are all excited, etc. nevertheless it definately be a learning experience that you will be thankful you had. first, you can grow most plants in there and grow them well. there is the list of the low-light plants that you should check out. i have wisteria, pygmy chain sowrd, anubias, crypt lucens, and dwarf sag in my tank. i also have the nutrafin co2 connected(i can recommend this) and my tank grew beautifully. i have only owned it since march. so let this tank teach you what you should learn and enjoy.

your stem plants should be fine. i will try to get some pics up to the forums by saturday for you to check out.


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

ok i uploaded some pics. sry for the cameraphone, i will get a digital one of these days.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/stickyfish/


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

There are may who say that you shouldn't keep Cories on Fluorite, but I've kept them for years (still do) and never had any issues at all.

Black neon tetras would certainly be a good choice, or you might consider a small school of Cardinal, Neons, Green, Axelrodi or Ember tetras, or perhaps some rasboras, or some of the tiny nano fish species from the sticky at the top of the Nano forum. IMO smaller fish make a tank look much larger.

Please be sure to check your water parameters at least every other day before considering adding tetras. You should never add any fish to an uncycled tank, but tetras are especially sensitive to ammonia and nitrItes.

You might want to consider adding some fert tabs to your setup. Rooted plants like crypts and swords tend to especially appreciate them. I use WonderGro tabs from www.GreenLeafAquariums.com and have had really good results with them.


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## seAdams (Jun 2, 2008)

For really lovely fish in a 10 gallon, you might want to consider dwarf blue-eyed rainbowfish (psuedomugil Gertrudae/Furcatus) when your plants grow in.

Threadfin Rainbows (Iriatherina werneri) are awesome as well.

Get as many males as females. The males display to each constantly and it's beautiful to watch.

These are gorgeous fish that need much less room than a school of tetras. Tey do like and need heavy plantings to show their best, however.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> There are may who say that you shouldn't keep Cories on Fluorite, but I've kept them for years (still do) and never had any issues at all.
> 
> Black neon tetras would certainly be a good choice, or you might consider a small school of Cardinal, Neons, Green, Axelrodi or Ember tetras, or perhaps some rasboras, or some of the tiny nano fish species from the sticky at the top of the Nano forum. IMO smaller fish make a tank look much larger.
> 
> ...


I have read that about Corys and Flourite but mine dont seem to have any problems with it. The pieces of "gravel" are so light, they are able to move them around no problem.

well... no Tetras today that's for sure. I went home at lunch and tested my water and had a pretty high Nitrite reading. I put an emergency dose of Prime in and will do a water change tonight. My Corys look ok... No visible signs of Nitrite poisoning. Is it true that a higher pH makes Nitrites less toxic?


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

seAdams said:


> For really lovely fish in a 10 gallon, you might want to consider dwarf blue-eyed rainbowfish (psuedomugil Gertrudae/Furcatus) when your plants grow in.
> 
> Threadfin Rainbows (Iriatherina werneri) are awesome as well.
> 
> ...


I'll check those out. Thanks!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> ok, before everyone starts eclipse bashing, i will have to put in my two cents. i own one also, at the recommendation of someone else. yes when you first get it it is a daunting experience cause you want to have everything growing, you are all excited, etc. nevertheless it definately be a learning experience that you will be thankful you had. first, you can grow most plants in there and grow them well. there is the list of the low-light plants that you should check out. i have wisteria, pygmy chain sowrd, anubias, crypt lucens, and dwarf sag in my tank. i also have the nutrafin co2 connected(i can recommend this) and my tank grew beautifully. i have only owned it since march. so let this tank teach you what you should learn and enjoy.
> 
> your stem plants should be fine. i will try to get some pics up to the forums by saturday for you to check out.


Thanks for the advice. Your tank looks great! I hope I can at least get mine to fill in some. Kinda looks funny after looking at other people's tanks.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

What would be considered the point of no return for fish exposed to high nitrite? As in what time from and nitrite levels will absolutely do permanent damage to your fish?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

There are so many things that can play into that, there's not going to be a set answer- results will vary greatly depending on species, age, temperature/other water parameters, condition of the fish, length of exposure, etc etc etc.

The bottom line is that it does not take much nitrIte to be toxic, and water changes are your friend. Chemical products that "lock" up these compounds are only a bandaid and won't do much for long- you still need to do water changes to remove the compounds from the tank all together, and also make sure you address the source of the problem (in this case- cycling the tank.) 

In your situation I'd shoot for as many water changes as it takes (small, more frequent are better than larger amounts) to keep the ammonia and nitrIte 0.25 ppm or less.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> There are so many things that can play into that, there's not going to be a set answer- results will vary greatly depending on species, age, temperature/other water parameters, condition of the fish, length of exposure, etc etc etc.
> 
> The bottom line is that it does not take much nitrIte to be toxic, and water changes are your friend. Chemical products that "lock" up these compounds are only a bandaid and won't do much for long- you still need to do water changes to remove the compounds from the tank all together, and also make sure you address the source of the problem (in this case- cycling the tank.)
> 
> In your situation I'd shoot for as many water changes as it takes (small, more frequent are better than larger amounts) to keep the ammonia and nitrIte 0.25 ppm or less.


There are 2 Corys in there. They actually still seem ok...not acting sick, etc...

I did a 50% earlier this evening and it looks like the levels dropped a good bit but its still at about 2.0. I think I am going to do another small one tonight. Hope my Corys aren't too far gone...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Healthy Cories are pretty tough little fish. Just keep on keeping on with the PWC and hopefully they'll pull through OK. :thumbsup:


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Healthy Cories are pretty tough little fish. Just keep on keeping on with the PWC and hopefully they'll pull through OK. :thumbsup:



They are Emeralds and appear to be pretty hardy. They are swimming a little erratically though. I just did another small water change and I'm down to about 1.5ppm. I guess I will do another small water change in the morning or is it ok to even do another small one tonight?

What's strange is my ammonia has been fine. I had some stem plants in there that weren't doing too good. I yanked them.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

The Amquel probably has the ammonia locked up.

Yes, I'd say do as many small PWC as you can.

Swimming funny isn't good  Did you add any aquarium salt? Sea salt, pickling salt, all the same stuff- just NaCl with as few additives as possible.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> The Amquel probably has the ammonia locked up.
> 
> Yes, I'd say do as many small PWC as you can.
> 
> Swimming funny isn't good  Did you add any aquarium salt? Sea salt, pickling salt, all the same stuff- just NaCl with as few additives as possible.


Well I may even do one more small one tonight then.

Not so much swimming funny. It's more like they are playing in the current from the pump...I dont know...:thumbsdow I haven't added any salt.


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

Well, I'm no expert, i've only been doing the planted tank thing for ~6 months, but i've learned a lot, especially from the immensely helpful people here, and the one thing I've learned when getting started is MORE PLANTS! Especially fast-growing ones like stems, so if you had to pull a bunch that weren't looking so hot, might be worth getting your hands on a few more and sticking them in the tank. Possibly even just floating some stems for a while so they suck up some of the nitrogenous waste. And as LauraLee has said, lots of PWC! Good luck! Sounds like you're on teh right track! :thumbsup:


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

^^ That's excellent advice. :thumbsup:


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Well the nitrite levels are dropping, just at a slow pace. I have done 2 more PWC today and I have added some salt to attempt to help the fish. I still have about 10 plants in there. I was actually thinking I had too many plants in the tank and that's why the nitrite started spiking. Up until Monday of this week I had 5 or 6 Amazon swords and the stem plants along with all my others that are still there. I removed 4 of the swords and all of the ludwiga. I will do another water change tonight, maybe 2. My fish have calmed down but I don't know if they are just finally relaxing because the toxicity is dropping and the salt or if this is the beginning of the end for them...:thumbsdow

Should I hold off on any ferts until this resolves itself?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

As long as the plants aren't dying, they will help absorb the ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. I don't think you need to dose any Nitrogen compounds in your tank ATM... ya got plenty!

Personally, I'd probably hold off on fert dosing till you get things leveled out just to make life a little simpler (instead of trying to figure out how much and when to dose in the middle of all the water changes you're doing ATM), but I don't think it would hurt to dose if you want to.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> As long as the plants aren't dying, they will help absorb the ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. I don't think you need to dose any Nitrogen compounds in your tank ATM... ya got plenty!
> 
> Personally, I'd probably hold off on fert dosing till you get things leveled out just to make life a little simpler (instead of trying to figure out how much and when to dose in the middle of all the water changes you're doing ATM), but I don't think it would hurt to dose if you want to.


lol...that i do!

What do you think as far as the fish chilling out? They are acting more like Corys now. Do you think the salt helped them or they are on their last leg? They've been exposed to some pretty high toxins...

I agree, I think I'll wait until these water changes subside. My plants still look ok.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

If they're acting like Cories, then I'd say chances are good they could pull through. I'd go very easy on the feeding, maybe only feed lightly ever other day, to try and keep wastes down. The Cories should be OK with that.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> If they're acting like Cories, then I'd say chances are good they could pull through. I'd go very easy on the feeding, maybe only feed lightly ever other day, to try and keep wastes down. The Cories should be OK with that.


Yea... before the were NOT acting like Cories. Now they appear to be. I've got a nice piece of driftwood with lots of cover for them if they pull through but it's still soaking. 

I'm down to .75-1.0ppm so it's clearing up finally. 1 big and 9 small water changes in 24 hours... Probly do another small one later tonight.

Oh and I left something out.. I put a new filter in this morning. There was an "incident" right when I got the tank and filled it with Flourite. I filled WAY too fast and it looked like the Mississippi River for like 2 days. I ended up draining it and filling it the right (SLOW) way before I put plants in. I was however using the same filter Charcoal filter that was in there through all that. Do you think that could have possibly contributed to my problems? I had rinsed the filter a few times but it still seemed to get really dirty right after I rinsed it. The new one has been in there all day and it still looks as clean as it did out of the package.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

As of this morning my levels are...

Ammonia - 0
Nitrite - .25
Nitrate - 5.0


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

Thanks LL! I've had great teachers here, it feels good to pass on some (hopefully) useful knowledge! :-D 

Also, rpayer, if you just changed the filtrer during the tank cycling, make sure to continue keeping an extra close eye on your levels because the filter is where a lot of your benefical (ammonia and nitrIte eating) bacteria were probably living, and will now have to recolonize. Adding more plants will help too as they usually come with some beneficial bacteria living on them too:thumbsup: sounds like you're doing well though! Keep it up! :-D


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Karackle said:


> Thanks LL! I've had great teachers here, it feels good to pass on some (hopefully) useful knowledge! :-D
> 
> Also, rpayer, if you just changed the filtrer during the tank cycling, make sure to continue keeping an extra close eye on your levels because the filter is where a lot of your benefical (ammonia and nitrIte eating) bacteria were probably living, and will now have to recolonize. Adding more plants will help too as they usually come with some beneficial bacteria living on them too:thumbsup: sounds like you're doing well though! Keep it up! :-D


I agree... Lot's of help on here!

I didn't really want to change the filter for that reason but I had a bad feeling about the one that was in there. It literally had mud cycling through it for 2 days. I have been keeping a very close eye on my levels and everything is at 0 now. I added a hefty dose of Stress Zyme after I put the new filter in. My fish seem much happier now that they are not swiming around in a toxic cesspool!


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## Bugman (Jan 7, 2008)

rpayer said:


> Not so much swimming funny. It's more like they are playing in the current from the pump...I dont know


 


They are acting more like Corys now[/quote said:


> Doesn't sound like your Cory's are behaving in an unusual manner. My Cory's play and swim in the current all the time. The do ocassionally like to hide under the driftwood and spend a good deal of time sitting or crusing the bottom but they spend a lot of time frolicking in the current. Corys are known for going to the top of the tank looking like they are taking a gulp of air. Just keep following Laura's advice and hopefully they will be fine.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Bugman said:


> Doesn't sound like your Cory's are behaving in an unusual manner. My Cory's play and swim in the current all the time. The do ocassionally like to hide under the driftwood and spend a good deal of time sitting or crusing the bottom but they spend a lot of time frolicking in the current. Corys are known for going to the top of the tank looking like they are taking a gulp of air. Just keep following Laura's advice and hopefully they will be fine.


I think they are good now. They were displaying odd behaviour for sure when the water got so screwed up but they seem much happier now. I really want to get them another friend or 2 but I went back to the LFS that they came from and the ones that were left didn't look too good. The only other place in town that has them is a very reputable fish store but his Green Corys are huge compared to my little guys.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Glad to hear the little guys are pulling through with flying colors, those water parameter stats are starting to shape up, and it sounds to me like you're making good decisons!  

Great work! :thumbsup:


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Ok.. water parameters are perfect now but I am still testing it daily. I found a pet store in town today that had the cleanest tanks and healthiest fish I have seen locally. Surprisingly it is a chain store (Petland in Baton Rouge). They had probably 20 different species of just Tetra... The girl that helped me really knew her stuff and sounded very passionate about the fish she was responsible for. I felt comfortable putting these guys in my tank without being able to quarantine them. As soon as they had been acclimated and I put them in they were hanging out with my 2 other Green Corys and already getting to work. I almost want an all-Cory tank after watching these little guys. Thanks to everyone for the advice and help. Hopefully I'll have some good update shots for ya'll soon. My plants are growing too!

The only other thing now is my water got a little cloudy. I did put a piece of driftwood in Saturday but it was treated and I soaked/boiled it. The water doesnt appear to be yellow from the driftwood, like I said, just a little cloudy. Any recommendations?


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Well I think part of my problem with the cloudy water is the inadequate Eclipse carbon filter. I picked up a filterbag and some fluval foam and filter floss. I'm going to make my own filter using that and either some of the carbon from the Eclipse filter or the blue foam from the Eclipse filter. I want to make sure I bring some bacteria over to the new filter...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

If the cloudiness is white, then it's probably just a bacterial bloom, and a different filter/filter pad won't do anything. Bacterial blooms usually just fade on their own as the population stabilizes.

If it's yellow cloudiness, then it's probably tannins (unless your ammonia spiked again). Seachem's Purigen resin is great for removing tannins, and can also be regenerated and reused.


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

rpayer said:


> Thanks for the advice. Your tank looks great! I hope I can at least get mine to fill in some. Kinda looks funny after looking at other people's tanks.


like everything else is life. practice makes perfect. also everything is hard the first time. you'll be fine with the bacterial bloom also. i had one in my 5.5g and it was gone quickly. 

any updated pics?


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> If the cloudiness is white, then it's probably just a bacterial bloom, and a different filter/filter pad won't do anything. Bacterial blooms usually just fade on their own as the population stabilizes.
> 
> If it's yellow cloudiness, then it's probably tannins (unless your ammonia spiked again). Seachem's Purigen resin is great for removing tannins, and can also be regenerated and reused.


Well then it is bacterial bloom. Just a slight white, cloudiness. I may do the filter anyway. That charcoal one that comes with the eclipse tanks looks whimpy. What are your thoughts on planted and charcoal? 

My Ammonia is 0 and the driftwood never leached after I boiled it. I was going to get some purigen today but all they had at the LFS was the large container of it and it was WAY overpriced compared to online.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> like everything else is life. practice makes perfect. also everything is hard the first time. you'll be fine with the bacterial bloom also. i had one in my 5.5g and it was gone quickly.
> 
> any updated pics?


I'm going to post some tonight. Things are growing as expected with low-light.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I like using carbon, and use it in all of my tanks, it's probably a holdover from my "fish only" days. I think that there aren't many other things that get water looking so clear, however (especially since I'm on well water).

You do need to pay attention to nutrients, however, since carbon will suck up organics. You can either dose ferts to compensate or I use root tabs, and am personally trying to set up another tank where no water column fert dosing is needed.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> I like using carbon, and use it in all of my tanks, it's probably a holdover from my "fish only" days. I think that there aren't many other things that get water looking so clear, however (especially since I'm on well water).
> 
> You do need to pay attention to nutrients, however, since carbon will suck up organics. You can either dose ferts to compensate or I use root tabs, and am personally trying to set up another tank where no water column fert dosing is needed.


I left the carbon filter in but shoved some filter floss in with it. I also shortened the tube that runs down to the pump head since it was too close to my substrate, seemed to increase water flow. I have been dosing Plant-Gro every other day.


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

When i first got this tank i was psyched with the filter cartridges. Even more when i figured I can rip them apart and make my own with cheap carbon. Then I got a tannin problem. my water looked like pee all the time and I was upset. I was gonna use purigen, but my LFS recommended bio-chem zorb. I put a mini bag in the chamber and covered it with bonded filter fiber. It's been almost 2 months and that stuff kicks butt! In less then a day it cleaned out all the tannins. Only thing i have had to do was clean the filter fiber. I actually only did today and when I did the water that I got out of it was black. So I guess something is workign with the Eclipse filter. Upon recommendation from ppl at the forums here I have some purigen coming in the mail so I can use it in my 5.5 and the eclipse when the zorb runs out. Everyone says it is better for planted tanks. Since mine is heavily planted with low light, I figured I would give it a shot. Plus you can regen it many times. Maybe it will be easier on the pocket. 

The purigen is not supposed to remove the elements in the water that plants need. Carbon is just supposed to suck it dry. I'm assuming the zorb kicks butt at it.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> When i first got this tank i was psyched with the filter cartridges. Even more when i figured I can rip them apart and make my own with cheap carbon. Then I got a tannin problem. my water looked like pee all the time and I was upset. I was gonna use purigen, but my LFS recommended bio-chem zorb. I put a mini bag in the chamber and covered it with bonded filter fiber. It's been almost 2 months and that stuff kicks butt! In less then a day it cleaned out all the tannins. Only thing i have had to do was clean the filter fiber. I actually only did today and when I did the water that I got out of it was black. So I guess something is workign with the Eclipse filter. Upon recommendation from ppl at the forums here I have some purigen coming in the mail so I can use it in my 5.5 and the eclipse when the zorb runs out. Everyone says it is better for planted tanks. Since mine is heavily planted with low light, I figured I would give it a shot. Plus you can regen it many times. Maybe it will be easier on the pocket.
> 
> The purigen is not supposed to remove the elements in the water that plants need. Carbon is just supposed to suck it dry. I'm assuming the zorb kicks butt at it.


I ended up adding some filter floss but had to leave the carbon for now. Yea, I have read all the same stuff about Purigen\Carbon. I just couldn't bring myself to buy it for 3 times the price I saw it online.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Can someone tell me how to take a descent picture of an aqaurium??


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/low-tech-forum/56864-update-18062008-56k-3.html

Starting on post 40 I asked how he got such good pictures of his tank, if you read on he gave a great description. Good luck!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Karackle said:


> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/low-tech-forum/56864-update-18062008-56k-3.html
> 
> Starting on post 40 I asked how he got such good pictures of his tank, if you read on he gave a great description. Good luck!


ahh... must be the light correction. I have an 8mp Nikon and I turn all the lights off but it still looks like crap.


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

I have a nikon coolpix, i don't have a tripod but I just set up a stoll with a box or something like that and put it on the autotimer. I also play with the "scene"setting, the dusk and dawn ones work quite well too. The light correction on normal settings too. The key to a non-blurry picture really seems to be the setting it up on steady surface (or tripod), no flash and timer.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Karackle said:


> I have a nikon coolpix, i don't have a tripod but I just set up a stoll with a box or something like that and put it on the autotimer. I also play with the "scene"setting, the dusk and dawn ones work quite well too. The light correction on normal settings too. The key to a non-blurry picture really seems to be the setting it up on steady surface (or tripod), no flash and timer.


Ours is a Nikon S51. I'll have to play with the settings tonight. I also have Photoshop CS3 and Lightroom so I should be able to whip something up..


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Ok, here is a new shot. Looks a little better than the last. This is my first "aquascape", or should I say "attempt" at aquascaping... Everything is growing. One of my ferns doesnt look so hot but I had the ryzome buried so hopefully it will start doing better....


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

i like the rocks... you should try sloping the substrate so it is higher in the back then it is in the front to give the tank more depth. you can do it easily now since the tank is still new. you can also raise the water level a bit if you don't want to hear the splashing too much.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> i like the rocks... you should try sloping the substrate so it is higher in the back then it is in the front to give the tank more depth. you can do it easily now since the tank is still new. you can also raise the water level a bit if you don't want to hear the splashing too much.


That is actually a big rock and a piece of driftwood. I know I wish I would have done that in the first place. The substrate is actually level with that rock right behind it so there are some differences in "elevation" in the tank. I think sloping it at this point would mean almost tearing it down. I dont know how I would do it without almost completely draining it and pulling everything out. The main problem is my substrate. It's Flourite so that means it makes a MESS. It was a little low, I topped it off last night.

I think I'm going to reposition that driftwood and tie the fern that isn't doing too good to it.


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## mizu-chan (May 13, 2008)

It's coming along nicely. Your drift wood looks like a crocodile head O_O


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

mizu-chan said:


> It's coming along nicely. Your drift wood looks like a crocodile head O_O



Thanks! I actually moved the driftwood and tied one of the java ferns to it and moved the anacharis. It looks much better now. It got a little dirty from disturbing the flourite but I'll take some pics later.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

added some DIY co2 last night...


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

goo dluck with the co2. after you have had it going for 2 weeks - month, you can toss the bio-wheel. it will off-gas your co2. i use a bag filled with ceramic media in place of the wheel. after a week of no bio-wheel the tank will start to take off. how do you have the co2 hooked up?


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> goo dluck with the co2. after you have had it going for 2 weeks - month, you can toss the bio-wheel. it will off-gas your co2. i use a bag filled with ceramic media in place of the wheel. after a week of no bio-wheel the tank will start to take off. how do you have the co2 hooked up?


Well I pulled the co2. I basically wanted to see how it worked and left it hooked up for about 24 hours. My fish didn't seem to like it much either. I just ran a line straight into the tank from a 2 liter bottle. Does the biowheel dissipate the naturally occurring co2 in the tank as well?


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

No, when you're not running CO2 (i'm pretty sure this is correct) the biowheel actually helps ADD CO2 to the water because it creates more turbulence on the surface allowing CO2 from the air to more easily dissolve into the water, when you are adding CO2 to a tank, however, the level of CO2 in the tank is HIGHER than in the air, so the added surface turbulence will gas off a lot of the CO2. Elements trying to reach equilibrium and that kind of thing. Same goes for bubble walls/air stones, if you're not adding CO2, they help aerate the water, if you're adding CO2, again, they can gas it off. 

I've never used CO2 on a tank, but these are things I learned when I was told to turn off my bubble wall and the response from others who realized I wasn't adding CO2 and that actually it might be a good thing, combined with my Biology/science background, i think i have the concepts pretty right :thumbsup: 

of course if i'm wrong, someone feel free to step in and correct me


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

From the research that I have done, it seems that the bio-wheel is used for aeration purposes. The whole CO2 exchange form it being in the air happens when you do a water change. 

My fish did not seem happy when I first added CO2. Though i figure that it was my own paranioa of killing them. With a do it yourself system you will not get that high of levels that will kill your fish. When I first added, i was only getting 6ppm before adding co2, and only just above 9 when I had the bio-wheel in. I have not checked it since because all my plants were taking off within a month. I wouldn't use a hose connected to the intake, cause in time the CO2 will destroy your impeller. Though if you wanted to buy a new one down the road, you could poke holes in it with a hot pin to help create fine bubbles. But within some time the rubber on the impeller will deteriorate and the tank will get loud.

I use the hagen/nutrafin setup. I do because I like the bottle pretty much. It was sturdy and I did not want to keep drilling holes in 2 liter bottles. Plus the ladder works awesome. It is supposed to dissolve something like 90% of the CO2. I got it beacuse someone on some other site reviewed the Eclipse 12 saying that someone would only need the CO2 if they did not want to drop 70 dollars upgrading the light. 

You can pick up the ladder for around 14 smackers if you jsut wanted to use that. The whole system is about 25 or so. I use a homemade brew now, and it does a great job. Perfect for a beginner. 

Keep us posted on how its going. And get that CO2 hooked back up! Your fish will be fine. Check out the list of low-light plants.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

*Amazon swords*

Beware Amazon swords may outgrow your tank.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

The tank is doing good. I have a little bit of an algae problem but I just picked up 2 Ottos so hopefully they will help. The 4 Cories pulled through the toxic water incident and I also picked up 5 Neons. I'll try to post some picks later.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Holy crap!! My big Anubias that was covered in brown algae is completely cleaned! The Ottos have only been in there for a few hours... Those little suckers are awesome!


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

ottos rule. mine do not eat algae wafers, but liuckily they are sustained by the algae in the tank. 

they are cool fish. sometimes they look like they are blinking.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> ottos rule. mine do not eat algae wafers, but liuckily they are sustained by the algae in the tank.
> 
> they are cool fish. sometimes they look like they are blinking.


It's crazy, there isn't a lick of algae in that tank anymore. I have lost 4 Neons since Saturday though. Looks like the dreaded NTD. I'm going to go with a different type of Tetras I believe. I don't suspect the remaining 3 will be around much longer either.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

If you haven't already, it would probably be a good idea to check your water paramters, just to be on the safe side. Otos don't usually have much tolerance for ammonia and nitrItes.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> If you haven't already, it would probably be a good idea to check your water paramters, just to be on the safe side. Otos don't usually have much tolerance for ammonia and nitrItes.


I kept checking it as the Neons kept croaking, and I brought a sample to the LFS this morning so they would give me credit for the fish I brought back. Did a water change this morning as well. I picked up a little school of Rasboras. They seem to be doing just fine. I wanted to keep all my fish from the same region but it doesnt matter too much..


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Ok so since my Ottos destroyed every spec of algae in my tank I figured they needed some algae wafers to eat. I drop the algae wafers in but my pig Corys wont leave them alone...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Peeled cucumber or some blanched green veggies would probably be left alone by the cories (Cories are always little piggies, aren't they! LOL  )

www.otocinclus.com is a website I always refer to with anyone who's keeping Otos. :thumbsup:


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Peeled cucumber or some blanched green veggies would probably be left alone by the cories (Cories are always little piggies, aren't they! LOL  )
> 
> www.otocinclus.com is a website I always refer to with anyone who's keeping Otos. :thumbsup:


I just figured Corys wouldnt eat algae...PIGS! I have been reading up on that site I just figured the wafers would be easier since I have 3 different types of fish that require 3 different types of food...


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Ok so last week I got some zucchini for the Ottos. They loved it...ate every bit. Well I gave them some more last night. Apparently my Cories have developed a taste for zucchini as well! How do I keep the Cories away from the Otto's food???

As far as the tank goes, everything is doing pretty good. My plants are growing, just pretty slow. I guess that's to be expected with stock lighting in an Eclipse though. Last week I realized that I have only been dosing half of the ferts that I have. I have been super busy and I guess I just forgot. I'm dosing all of my ferts again so hopefully that will help some. I'll post some updated pics soon.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

You could try getting one of those magnetic veggie clips and clipping the zucchini up higher on the sides of the tank for the Otos, plus also have some on the bottom of the tank for the Cories. My cories and my Otos fight for sinking wafers, I just try to spread them around my tank so everyone gets a shot at finding one no one else is feeding on ATM.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> You could try getting one of those magnetic veggie clips and clipping the zucchini up higher on the sides of the tank for the Otos, plus also have some on the bottom of the tank for the Cories. My cories and my Otos fight for sinking wafers, I just try to spread them around my tank so everyone gets a shot at finding one no one else is feeding on ATM.


The way my Cories are I think they would eat it no matter what. They will steal the Rasboras food from the surface sometimes...lol. Maybe I'll drop in some algae wafers and zucchini at the same time. They cant eat it all...i hope. How often should I be feeding the Ottos anyway? There isnt much algae in my tank since I got them...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

You want their bellies to stay round and full and you want to see them pooping most of the time. They've got fast metabolisms, so they need to eat a lot. I'd say feed them at least every other day, if there's still some zucchini left after the cories are done- otherwise, feed them every day.


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

x2 what LauraLee said....in my experience, chubby, somewhat rotund Otos are happy Otos ....of course you don't want OBESE otos, but you don't want emaciated Otos either


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Their little bellies look full so I'm sure they're fine. There isn't a shortage of food that's for sure. 

Now I have another question... How can you tell if a Cory is pregnant? I believe I have one female and 3 males and the big female is looking mighty plump... 

I've just about given up on the stock lighting in the Eclipse All my plants are alive and growing just at a VERY slow rate. I'm thinking about retro'ing the guts out of one of the $20 Home Depot desk lamps everyone is talking about into my hood. I saw where someone did the exact same thing with an Eclipse in the Nano section of the forum.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Try doing a water change with water just a few degrees cooler (not COLD, just cooler) than your tank water next time you know a thunderstorm is about to blow through your area... that's a trick breeders often use to encourage Cories to spawn.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Try doing a water change with water just a few degrees cooler (not COLD, just cooler) than your tank water next time you know a thunderstorm is about to blow through your area... that's a trick breeders often use to encourage Cories to spawn.


Well I think (if she is prego) they may have already spawned. I just changed my light schedule to 6pm-6am rather than 6 or 7 am to 6 or 7 pm. At night the water temp was dropping a few degrees due to no light and the A\C on colder at night when we go to bed. Now the temp is staying at an even 78 but before it was around 80 during the day and down to like 76 at night. How can i tell if she is pregnant? I'd try to get a pic of her fat belly but she is swimming too much.

What do you think about the light mod?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Cories don't get pregnant, they're egg layers. At the point she's laid her eggs (if she is carrying) she'll be noticibly skinnier. They often lay their eggs on the tank walls or on another smooth surface, like a rock or even filter intake.

My tank also fluctuates about 2 degrees from night to day but I personally don't worry about it that much. I just leave the glass canopy open during the day to release heat. 4 degrees was a bit much, however. You don't have a heater on this tank, or is it set at 76? You could set it at 78 to try and split the difference if you want to run your lights during the day for viewing.

I switched to T5HO lighting b/c of heating issues, and I love it. My tank never gets over 78F now, and I used to get into the high 80s during the summer with CF fixtures!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Cories don't get pregnant, they're egg layers. At the point she's laid her eggs (if she is carrying) she'll be noticibly skinnier. They often lay their eggs on the tank walls or on another smooth surface, like a rock or even filter intake.
> 
> My tank also fluctuates about 2 degrees from night to day but I personally don't worry about it that much. I just leave the glass canopy open during the day to release heat. 4 degrees was a bit much, however. You don't have a heater on this tank, or is it set at 76? You could set it at 78 to try and split the difference if you want to run your lights during the day for viewing.
> 
> I switched to T5HO lighting b/c of heating issues, and I love it. My tank never gets over 78F now, and I used to get into the high 80s during the summer with CF fixtures!


Well her belly seems a little swolen. I hope she is ok. 

The reason I changed the light cycle is mainly for the temp but also for viewing. My girlfriend and I are at work during the day so we we're having to turn the lights off not long after we got home.

I just did a full water test and my nitrites have gone up to .25 but no ammonia. I am going to do a small water change tonight but I think I have been over feeding. For 4 Corys how many shrimp pellets would you feed and how often?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I don't feed more than my Cories and Otos can consume in a few hours (I do give them longer and do make sure that the Otos have opportunity to feed). I don't feed them sinking wafers every day though; maybe every 3 days. I alternate foods a lot, and I also fast my fish at least one day a week.

If you've got readable nitrItes then you definitely should do a water change. If there's any uneaten food lying around the tank you need to be sure to vacuum the substrate really well.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> I don't feed more than my Cories and Otos can consume in a few hours (I do give them longer and do make sure that the Otos have opportunity to feed). I don't feed them sinking wafers every day though; maybe every 3 days. I alternate foods a lot, and I also fast my fish at least one day a week.
> 
> If you've got readable nitrItes then you definitely should do a water change. If there's any uneaten food lying around the tank you need to be sure to vacuum the substrate really well.


I think I have been overfeeding... 

I did a water change and vacuumed the substrate. I usually dont vacuum, just suck the water out. I figured with all the bottom feeders I probably didn't need to actually vacuum everytime I did a water change. NitrItes are back down to 0.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Let there be light! 

Just picked up a Lights of America outdoor flood light that I am going to gut and retro into my Eclipse hood. It came with a 27watt 6500k bulb...

Do you think I will be able to mount the fixture to the underside of my hood with marine epoxy?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I'd use stainless steel screws, and double-check how hot that light gets after it's run a few hours first.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> I'd use stainless steel screws, and double-check how hot that light gets after it's run a few hours first.


I dont know if I'll have much options as far as screwing it in. That's why I was wondering about the epoxy. It will be much easier to position it with epoxy. The fixture and bulb is the same one that comes in the $20 Home Depot lamp everyone has been using for Nanos. I havent heard of any heat issues...


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Well the retrofit didn't work... The ballast was not remote so the "fixture" hung way too close to the water. I think I may just go with the ahsupply kit.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Well I found the lamp and was able to retrofit the fixture and everything into the hood. So know I've got 27w of 6500k light. I also planted some chainswords. Hopefully be able to see some real growth now. 

After the water change the other night the nitrites went back down to 0 from about .25. I tested teh water just now and I've got a very small, almost undetectable amount of nitrites in the water. My ammonia is 0 and nitrates about 5-10ppm. What could be causing these low levels of nitrite?? Here are a few crappy cell phone pics...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Sounds like the changes have triggered a mini-cycle in the tank.

I'd just keep an eye on the parameters, stay on top of water changes when needed, and let the tank stabilize.


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## Sticky230 (Mar 30, 2008)

so how is the light held into the hood? did you end up using the epoxy?


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Sticky230 said:


> so how is the light held into the hood? did you end up using the epoxy?


I used one of the existing screw holes and the marine exoxy. The epoxy cracked so I used a little waterproof superglue. All is well now. I can already tell the difference in plant growth!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

My Cories seem to have gotten pretty skittish since the retrofit. They never were before. In fact they would swim to the glass if they saw me. Now they run for cover. Could the attentional light be causing this? Water quality is fine.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

So it looks like I will be getting a Fluval Osaka (155L) in a few weeks... I am planing on using my existing plants, substrate, driftwood, and rock in the new tank. What should I expect as far as cycling? I'm just trying to figure out what to do with my fish if I am going to go through a full cycle. I can't really keep them in the old tank if I am breaking it down...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Chances are pretty good that if you are moving over the all substrate, plants, and filter from the old tank that the new tank won't need to cycle at all, especially if you can do it all in one day and minimize the chances of the N-bacteria dying off. :thumbsup: 

Are your Cories still skittish? Mine like being able to hide out under my driftwood and under my big sword to get out of the light and take "catfish naps", but they're all over the tank the rest of the time.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Chances are pretty good that if you are moving over the all substrate, plants, and filter from the old tank that the new tank won't need to cycle at all, especially if you can do it all in one day and minimize the chances of the N-bacteria dying off. :thumbsup:
> 
> Are your Cories still skittish? Mine like being able to hide out under my driftwood and under my big sword to get out of the light and take "catfish naps", but they're all over the tank the rest of the time.


Well that's good. It will all be done in one day. I may even use some, if not all of the water from the existing tank to reduce stress on the fish. 

They have calmed down a pretty good bit. I guess it was the extra light... Now that my swords have doubled in size the definitely hide under them much more. I'm gong to have a section of sand in the new tank so I'm sure they'll love that.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

I've got a nutrient problem I cant figure out... I am dosing flourish once a week, excel everyday, and I have some API Planttabs that I throw in once a week. I am pretty sure I have a macro deficiency but I'm not sure why. The plantstabs are 11-15-20NPK but when I test for nitrAtes they read 0ppm. I've got some yellow on the leaves of my Anubias and Swords and I got some algae when I upgraded my lights a few weeks ago. What am I missing here? Could Bio-wheel/carbon filter have anything to do with this??


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Keeping fish alive with no power is tough! I had a battery backup on the filter for about 24 hours before it died. Since then I've had an airstone connected to a battery operated airpump in the tank. I've also been doing 30% water changes everyday and adding a little prime incase ammonia/nitrate starts to creep. Everyone seems to be happy. I guess my algae problem will be gone after days of no light, plants might too though. This is going to mess up my new tank swap that was planted for next week as well The Osaka will have to wait a little longer...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Where r u that you don't have power?

GL!!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Where r u that you don't have power?
> 
> GL!!


Baton Rouge, La. I really am amazed that the national media covered the effect of Gustav on Southeast Louisiana so little. Over half of Metro Baton Rouge is still without power. Tons of houses destroyed, etc... We had 85mph sustained winds and gust up to 96mph for like 5 hours in BR.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Ugh!

I really hope Ike misses you guys.

Not that I really want it to come here, either... my house is already almost an island after Fay...


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Ugh!
> 
> I really hope Ike misses you guys.
> 
> Not that I really want it to come here, either... my house is already almost an island after Fay...


I dont even wanna think about Ike. I'll never get to set that new tank up


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

How long can I expect my plants to live with little to no light? Our place is still without power. My fish are still fine with my battery operated airpump and water changes but the plants cant be doing too good...

Amazon Swords
Vals
Moneywort
Java fern
Anaubias


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Most of those plants are pretty hardy. Any chance that you could open up windows to get them at least some ambient light? I suspect your Moneywort (Bacopa monnieri?) will be the first plant to start struggling and may not make it that long, but the rest will probably be OK for at least week or more... maybe some dieback, but I suspect they'd also bounce back OK.


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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

Welcome to PT. Tank looks good, needs a lot more plants. They'll help with the nitrogen too, lots of fast growing stems stuffed to the rim.

I generally don't let my nitrite get higher than .25ppm, this seems to be a safe spot but is very hard to get down to during the heaviest of the spiking. You'll almost surely have to do a few back to back water changes to get down there, for me sometimes 3 or 4 in a row depending on volume (10 to 20% tank volume). That's essentially a near complete H2O change-out at times, but less shocking that doing it at once. And I always use Seachem Prime to condition the water, very heavy doses will soften the effects when nitrogen begins to rise back up, before you can get to the next water change.

Very sorry to hear about the power issues and storm, hopefully the next one will move out and leave us all alone for a change.


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

So sorry to hear about your power loss! Glad to hear you're keeping your fish happy though! Just a thought but if you have a batter yoperated air pump, maybe you could put in a small corner filter that connects to an air pump, might help some? Sounds like you're doing ok with your method though, so maybe best to stick with what works? Suppose that depends on how long you're going to be without power. Hopefully not much longer and it won't be an issue though! And like LauraLee said, if there's a window that can give some light to the tank during the day that would certainly help keep your plants happy too! good luck and I hope the power comes back soon and everything else is ok too!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Most of those plants are pretty hardy. Any chance that you could open up windows to get them at least some ambient light? I suspect your Moneywort (Bacopa monnieri?) will be the first plant to start struggling and may not make it that long, but the rest will probably be OK for at least week or more... maybe some dieback, but I suspect they'd also bounce back OK.


They have been getting a little ambient light from the windows when I have been going over there everyday this week to check on them. I have been keeping the shades pulled when not there to keep it cool inside. 

I sure hope so. I was hoping to transfer all of those plants to the Osaka. Guess I wont have to worry about transfering any algae after all this! I am hearing my power should be restored by Wednesday, hopefully today... When I get power back I'm going to let the filter run for a day or 2 then I'm going to break it down and do the tank swap.


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

jaidexl said:


> Welcome to PT. Tank looks good, needs a lot more plants. They'll help with the nitrogen too, lots of fast growing stems stuffed to the rim.
> 
> I generally don't let my nitrite get higher than .25ppm, this seems to be a safe spot but is very hard to get down to during the heaviest of the spiking. You'll almost surely have to do a few back to back water changes to get down there, for me sometimes 3 or 4 in a row depending on volume (10 to 20% tank volume). That's essentially a near complete H2O change-out at times, but less shocking that doing it at once. And I always use Seachem Prime to condition the water, very heavy doses will soften the effects when nitrogen begins to rise back up, before you can get to the next water change.
> 
> Very sorry to hear about the power issues and storm, hopefully the next one will move out and leave us all alone for a change.


Tank looks completely different from the last pic I posted here. I treat my water with Prime. Nitrite and Ammonia have stayed 0ppm through all this. I guess most of my n-bacteria is still alive. 

I second that!!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Karackle said:


> So sorry to hear about your power loss! Glad to hear you're keeping your fish happy though! Just a thought but if you have a batter yoperated air pump, maybe you could put in a small corner filter that connects to an air pump, might help some? Sounds like you're doing ok with your method though, so maybe best to stick with what works? Suppose that depends on how long you're going to be without power. Hopefully not much longer and it won't be an issue though! And like LauraLee said, if there's a window that can give some light to the tank during the day that would certainly help keep your plants happy too! good luck and I hope the power comes back soon and everything else is ok too!


I didnt even think about one of those filters. The fish seam happy. Hopefully power will be back today or no later than wednesday. This is kinda messing up my tank swap plans...


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Don't want to be a party pooper, but if I were you - living where you do- I'd be waiting till after the hurricane season is over before starting up any new tanks...


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## esteroali (Oct 24, 2007)

*Party Pooper!*

Go for it!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Don't want to be a party pooper, but if I were you - living where you do- I'd be waiting till after the hurricane season is over before starting up any new tanks...


No way I can stare at this Osaka tank til November....


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Well power came back on last night! I managed to save all my fish and had very little plant die-off. Osaka switch starts today!


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Good luck, and I'm so glad your power is back on!!!

Now let's hope Ike stays well away...


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## prettyrustyrobot (May 23, 2007)

lauraleellbp said:


> Don't want to be a party pooper, but if I were you - living where you do- I'd be waiting till after the hurricane season is over before starting up any new tanks...


x2.

i'd hate to see you do a bunch of work and then have the power be off for 2 weeks.


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## Karackle (Dec 11, 2007)

Glad to hear the power is back on! Good Luck with the switch over! I too hope that Ike stays far away!


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## rpayer (Jun 9, 2008)

Thanks guys! I sure hope it doesnt go back off! We are getting some rain and a few gusts of wind but I think we'll be fine. 

I'm gonna start a thread for the Osaka build.


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