# Help Frank choose his tank equipment-20 gal



## AaronT (Apr 11, 2004)

Light: 2 x 24 watt T5 HO fixture of some sort
Filter: Eheim 2213 or Rena XP1
Substrate: Flourite Black Sand (the coolest of the Flourites IMO)
Heater: Depending on the temps in your house it may not be needed. Ebo Jager is the brand I like.
Plants: Crypts, Ferns, Mosses, Anubias and Marsilea minuta for the foreground.


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## Far3 (Jan 1, 2008)

thank you so much with your post


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

The Rena XP1 will probably serve you well, but I am very happy with my Rena XP2 on my 20L. I'm not even lowering the flow control. I could not get that tank clean no matter what until I put the XP2 on it. Now it sparkles!

I decided on the XP2 instead of the XP1 simply because of the extra basket. It allows me the space I needed for not only mechanical filtration, but to also add a lot of biological filtration. I didn't think the XP1 could hold enough. Otherwise, I'm sure it's good.

Eheims are great, too. I just got one for my 75g, and I love it. Again, lots and lots of room for media inside. I can't suggest which Eheim would work for a 20L.

I just returned a Fluval, and while I know plenty of people like them, plenty do not, and I'm one of them. It was noisier, I didn't care for the setup (sponges on the side took up 1/3 of the canister) and not enough room for real media.

Hood: Versa-Top. The old plastic hoods are too limiting.

Lighting: definitely stick with T5 HO. They run much cooler, and with a tank that shallow, a hot light could raise the water temperature. Since you are only interested in low tech and your list of plants are all low light plants, you may like what I got. It's a Coralight Aquatech 2 x 18 T5. Very thin. Very cool. Comes to about 1.8 wpg. The fixture is inexpensive, just make sure you get the freshwater version so you get the right bulbs (bulbs are included with fixture).


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## Far3 (Jan 1, 2008)

I'm A little confused about the lighting, I know the wpg and the basics of it. But I'm confused about if you always need a hood to go along with the light fixture.

Like this one for example. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3733+13822+16770&pcatid=16770

My tank is 29.5" long, would I get the 30" light or the 24" light and have the hood hold it somehow??

Also could you recommend me to some lighting/hood links? its what im confused on the most right now

Thank You


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

You don't need a hood or glass canopy of any kind with a fixture like that. It has a splash shield built in and will straddle the aquarium rim for support. A glass canopy would be the choice if you didn't want to go open top though. The 20L is a weird size from the standpoint that most all bulbs are either too small or too big, but if that's the size aquarium you're using it'll probably look better to have the 30" version.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

While the tank measurements may be 29.5", basically consider it a 30" tank. That's because the upper frame sticks out a little. You can get a shorter light, but if you want it all the way across (which I recommend so the corners get enough light), it's best to go with the 30" light.

While looking for parts of any kind of the 20Long tank, anything that fits a 29 gallon tank will also fit a 20Long tank. The only difference between the two is the 20L is shorter than the 29. The footprint is exactly the same. You'll also see references to 20L/29/37 as some 37 gallon tanks also have the same footprint, but are even taller than the 29.

So for all your searches, you want to consider your tank to be 30" wide.

I suggested getting a versa-top lid. Here's a picture so you'll get an idea of what it looks like:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3790

Basically, it's all glass. There's a hinge in the middle so you can open and close the front just like you do the old black lids. And there's a plastic strip in the back that you can cut out places for your hoses and filters. That's also the same as the black lids.

The main difference is that the glass lid gives you more flexibility. For example, if you want to get a light fixture that's 1/2" wider? No problem. The lid is glass. The light will shine through. Want to add a moonlight of sorts? Great! The light will shine through the glass lid. I also like being able to not only open the front for feeding, but that hinge can allow you to open the back, as well. And you can slide the lid back and forth when the front is opened which gives you greater access to the tank when needed (such as when trying to get that darn heater straight, you can get to it from the back by opening the front lid and then sliding the glass forward which now makes an opening in the back).

You can also get the same versa-top lid with different glass dimensions so it will be easier to fit a double light on it:

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=13818

The front glass you open for feeding will be more narrow so the glass behind the hinge is wider. Compare the measurements on each to decide what you want. Personally, I just stuck with the regular size and not the double, but it's just a personal choice.

I have two caveats about these lids. (1) Because the glass is clear, I have found myself accidentally leaving the front part open without realizing it. I can't see at an instant that it's open because it is so clear! (2) Light not only shines down through the glass, but it also shines up. I found this to be a problem when I added a row of moonlights. The lights would shine all over the room at night (it's in my bedroom). For now, I added foil to block the light. The true answer would be a canopy, but with the 20L tank being so short, a canopy would swallow it.

As far as links for lights, the one you offered would work just fine. Not too bad a price, either. You want to ensure two things: 30" and Freshwater. Anything that says it has an "actinic" bulb is for saltwater. You don't want that bulb. Just be sure it specifically says freshwater, and you'll be fine. If you're not sure, you can always post a link to double check.

This is the light I have:

http://www.bigalsonline.com/StoreCa...coralife_fw_t5_aqualight_double_strip_light30

I would probably be happier with just a touch more light, but it's better to start off with a bit lower light than to go too high since the higher the light, the greater chance for problems and the faster the problems will grow. Lower light keeps things at a nice, slow pace while you're learning.

Note also the price is $41.99. The prices on the related items are so big and red, it's hard to see the price of the item you're looking at.

I remember when I first got my light on my 20L. I ended up begging for someone to just give me a link and I'll buy whatever it was. It's really confusing at first. But it gets better.

All that boils down to remembering these few things:

20L/29/37
30"
T5
Freshwater lights specified
6700 + 10000 bulbs good
If it says "actinic", don't get it
Versa-Top (aka Vers-a-Top) lid (hood)

I hope this helps and doesn't confuse you further.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

indiboi said:


> You don't need a hood or glass canopy of any kind with a fixture like that. It has a splash shield built in and will straddle the aquarium rim for support. A glass canopy would be the choice if you didn't want to go open top though.


I know open tops are the rage for some, but I recommend lids to keep the fish in and keep the dust out. But, you are right as the lid isn't technically necessary.



> The 20L is a weird size from the standpoint that most all bulbs are either too small or too big, but if that's the size aquarium you're using it'll probably look better to have the 30" version.


How's the 20L a weird size? It's the same dimensions (except height) as the 29 and 37. Are they all weird? They're all 30" wide. Anything marked for 30" will fit just fine.

I will agree that the 20L is a weird size in terms of height. I can't wait to change mine to at least a 29g as that's what it was supposed to be until the 29g tank broke.


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

I suggested the glass canopy as the option for not going open top, I mentioned that because I recognize not everyone wants an open top. I personally can't stand having a glass canopy, but that's definitely a 'to each their own' sort of thing.

The 30" fixture he linked to uses the same bulbs as the 24" fixture, which is common for that size fixture. 30" aquariums are an odd size from the bulb stand point, which is what I said... I think 29 and 37 gallon aquariums are a weird size too.  The issue comes with illumination toward the edges, there's a lot of gap at the ends when you're using a bulb that is 22" long on an aquarium that is 30" long. The next size up and the bulbs are too big.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Interesting. I didn't know some (most?) 30" fixtures used 22" bulbs. The fixture I have uses 30" bulbs (give or take an inch). That's why I was confused as to why you said it was a weird size.

Hmm... At least I think the bulbs are about 30". BRB.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Just measured. Precisely 27" long. That's including the silver ends, but not the prongs.

So that's an extra vote for the Aqualight T5 fixture.


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Well, it's important to note that your fixture is T-5 NO, and the Current is T-5 HO. As far as I know there aren't any ~30" PC lamps, nor are there any ~30" HO lamps. Considering this thread is in the low tech forum, the HO and PC are probably too much light and I'd put my vote on T-5 NO too.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

indiboi said:


> Well, it's important to note that your fixture is T-5 NO...


Right. That's why I gave the 2x18w. Low tech, definitely.



> As far as I know there aren't any ~30" PC lamps, nor are there any ~30" HO lamps.


Okay, I see. I never even consider PC lamps since they are just too hot. Nice to know about the 30" HO lamp problem since I did have delusions of giving that a try down the road when I moved my tanks and switched to a 29 (IF I can figure out where to put it in my house!). Guess that nixes that idea.



> Considering this thread is in the low tech forum, the HO and PC are probably too much light and I'd put my vote on T-5 NO too.


For me, it's been a good setup to cut my teeth on. It got me in the game, but in slow motion. Still, there are enough plants I can grow to still make it fun. And the price tag isn't bad.


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## t0p_sh0tta (Jan 24, 2008)

The 20L is a weird size because most tanks/accessories are 36" inches long.

I'm actually moving up from my 20L to a 30g (36x12x16) because I found the depth of the 20 limiting when choosing plants. With 1.5-2" of substrate, you only have 10" left for plants.

I use this 48w Current USA T-5 light and it is a bit much for my fish. The plants love it though. It kinda pushes the limit for non-CO2 injected tanks though. The arms are adjustable as the others have said and it will be used on my 30 or maybe even my 40 for a while.

edit: BTW, the previously mentioned Coralite fixture us a great deal. I've been thinking above upgrading to  thisone myself.


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## Far3 (Jan 1, 2008)

Well, I just ordered from great site, has some great deals as well.

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/shop.cfm?c=3578


 CD-909708 
 Eheim Classic Canister 
2213-37   $67.99 
 x 
 1 
=  $67.99   CD-930988 
 Twin-Tube Versa-Tops
30"   $17.99 
 x 
 1 
=  $17.99   CD-157491 
 Deluxe Heaters
100 watt   $14.39 
 x 
 1 
=  $14.39   CD-410897 
 Hagen Thermometers
Floating Glass   $2.39 
 x 
 1 
=  $2.39   CD-10977 
 Flourite
Red   $14.19 
 x 
 2 
=  $28.38   CD-32828 
 Nova Extreme T-5 Fixtures 
30" Freshwater   $58.39 
 x 
 1 
=  $58.39  *Subtotal* *=* *$189.53* *Standard (Within 7 Business Days)* *=* *$14.99* *TOTAL* *=* *$204.52*


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## t0p_sh0tta (Jan 24, 2008)

Sounds good to me. I have a 2215 (going on my 40) on my tank along with an AC70. I currently have color quartz, which will be changed out for fluorite dark whenever my hose thaws.

Goodluck.


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## isu712 (Jan 11, 2008)

I've got the 24" version of that light fixture on my 20G high and it's great. Good call going with the glass hood (sorry indiboi), but the fixture says that it is meant to work with a hood. The clips are only designed to keep the hood off the glass, not give it any real clearance over the tank. So with a full tank and no hood your lights would be way too close to the water (could be only an inch or less).


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## imeridian (Jan 19, 2007)

Hehe, no need to apologize, using a glass canopy is a personal preference. I was just trying to thoroughly answer the question while stating my preference at the same time.  I really hope it didn't come off like an indictment of those that prefer the glass tops, lol.


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