# DIY Mini Canister Filter for nano tanks



## Oqsy (Jul 3, 2004)

great find! thanks for posting! I've been trying to come up with something like that for my desktop nano (which has a red sea nano filter totally overwhelming it at the moment... scaling down the hoses for "pico" tanks should be a piece of cake. 

Oqsy


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

Glad I could be of help Oqsy . This is a REALLY simple canister filter that would be perfect for those with the Ocean Free tanks :thumbsup:


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## skylsdale (Aug 26, 2003)

I lost that link when I swapped computers to my new one--thanks! haven't visited Petfrd.com in a while...need to swing by more often.


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## juanBeegas (May 9, 2005)

It's a Singapore site, so prices and availablity of things needed will vary...


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## Ibn (Nov 19, 2003)

Interesting find there. 

Looks good, but I'll just stick with my Red Sea nano for the while being. Already have them up and running and the only thing that shots in the tank is the wiring from the heater and the uplift tubing from the HOB.


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## Oqsy (Jul 3, 2004)

ok, already given it a try, and I can say that the Lock & Lock brand must be made of a different plastic than ziploc "twist n' loc", because mine cracked beyond use after trying to poke the first hole... I was able to salvage the job with the second container (came in a 2 pack) what will probably be usable now that i've used half a tube of silicone on it... then again, it might leak, but I'm too dizzy from vinegar fumes to know the difference right now. I'll report back with pics if it works, if not, I'll try again with a tougher plastic that doesn't shear so easily.

Oqsy


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## oceanaqua (Nov 24, 2005)

A pump for $3? Thats a rare find in the US.


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

This is a great find. And the concept is very scaleable. My head is spinning with the possibilites of a 5 gallon bucket, and a mag5! I have sitting around  Too bad I don't need it, but I'm still thinking about it. 

The Twist and Lock containers are actually a hard plastic, and I have a crack in one that I used to store my ferts in.


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## cxz (Dec 6, 2005)

I think I'm going to try that.. for my 5-ish gallon tank.. would be great to be able to hide the pump in the shelf behind.. 

and maybe for a 8-10 gallon I'm planning on getting after christmas..

but for filter material.. what should be used?

those blue filtermats?

and wouldnt it be better to have the pump placed on top of the canister.. 
when you filtrate the water, the larger, heavier particles would fall to the bottom instead of just clogging up the filtermat...
edit: i should have read the whole thing  I should try reading before posting..


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

I think you can do this DIY canister on a large scale size by increasing the pump size and the container size. I already have two extra pumps that I'm not using but one of them is too weak and the other too strong LOL. I think you can find a cheap pump somewhere :thumbsup:. BTW, I think Harbor Freight sells really cheap fountain pump too.


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## rcx_sk (Feb 2, 2004)

easiest way to find a cheap pump - ebay!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7732619360

40 gph, same flow rate as the one in the article (=150 liters/hr)

or if you want a little stronger pump 79gph - 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7732144491

just search the seller's other items for more of the same pumps if these autions have ended.

btw, amazon.com and target.com sell those lock 'n lock containers, but u have to buy a set of them.


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## azn_fishy55 (Dec 17, 2005)

the link seems not to be working on my sister computer.I am interested in making this for my 5-ish gallon tank that I am going to house some cherry shrimp in to breed.Thanks!!


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## rcx_sk (Feb 2, 2004)

the links should work, if not I guess u can just search for the seller - artflowdesigns.com

or use the search term "submersible pump" that's how I found them.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

JBN said:


> I think you can do this DIY canister on a large scale size by increasing the pump size and the container size. I already have two extra pumps that I'm not using but one of them is too weak and the other too strong LOL. I think you can find a cheap pump somewhere :thumbsup:. BTW, I think Harbor Freight sells really cheap fountain pump too.


Only thing you have to watch is time and money. With the Zoo Med 501 available for under $30 I would have to be able to build the filter for less than $10 and in less than an hour to make it work for me.


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

I am going to be trying one of these in my week off for the Holidays. I have a few new Rubbermaid "Take Along Deep Square" Containers that seem to be good for this. They hold water fine, I've filled it and shook it a few times and it seems to hold fine. I'll try to find a cheap pump, but I want to have enough flow because I'll use it on my 10 gallon shrimp tank (unless I get the ZooMed 501 turtle filter for Xmas). I should be able to either use plumbing stuff from other filters and other projects, but I'll just stop by lowes for anything else I need. It will probably cost just what the pump costs.

BTW, does anyone know how big a container to use? The ones I have are 5.2 cups. And anyone know what kind of pump would work best?


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

A submersible pump, not too big would work. Harbor Freight sells 66gph pump for $9.99, ouch. The container should be bigger than the pump and should hold whatever filter material you want in it. I'm still wondering if the container could be any size (that is, not beyond the limit of outrageous).


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

While attempting to read Japanese (or was it Mandarin?), I came across another site for the canister filter. Here's the link: 

http://www.aqugrass.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9668

It shows the filter in work and the inlet/outlet tubes too.


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

I've tried it now with the Rubbermaid container. I came along some problems:

-Not tall enough (width doesn't matter nearly as much as height)

-Hard to drill through the sides (plus I was using a crappy drill bit)

-Leaked due to drill bit cracking the plastic when it drilled

Anyways that was just an experiment. Now I know that it works in theory, I'm still working on making it practical. Every example I've seen has used the "Lock & Lock" brand containers. I looked on their website and came up with THIS ONE from Ebay. Volume is 2.6 liters (for reference Eheim Classic 2213 is 3 liters), so this one should be pretty big. I'm using a Pico Pump 350 from Hydor. Its rated for 92 gph (eheim 2213 is 116 gph) and since I'm going to be using this filter right next to the tank (10 gallon tank, 12 inches tall I think) and the pump will be at the top of the container (about 7 inches up) there won't be much head to worry about. 

I have drawn up plans and am ready to do this. I just need to get the container. It'll be on its way soon, but its coming from China so who knows how long it'll take...


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

You need to fix your link.

And here it comes. That container is $7 plus shipping. Then you have the price of the pump and your time. The tubing and connectors.

I will admit that DIY can be fun. But it looks to me like you will end up with an expensive filter that may or may not work. Why not just get the Zoo Med 501?


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

> You need to fix your link.
> 
> And here it comes. That container is $7 plus shipping. Then you have the price of the pump and your time. The tubing and connectors.
> 
> I will admit that DIY can be fun. But it looks to me like you will end up with an expensive filter that may or may not work. Why not just get the Zoo Med 501?


The ZooMed is $35 at That Fish Place the last time I checked. I already had the pump from a diy co2 reactor from a while back. The plumbing will be just hose clamps, an elbow or two, and a spray bar (either DIY or the Eheim one). I already have different sizes of tubing (1/2 inch will be what I use). So really the cost is whatever the container is plus $2-5 for plumbing stuff. It should still be a lot cheaper than the ZooMed 501.

The other advantage is that this should have more volume and a slightly better flow rate than the ZooMed. I'm also thinking about making it with a built in heater, one more thing that I couldn't do with the ZooMed. 

I probably won't get to work on this for a week or two, but when I do I'll try to take pictures along the way and explain any problems.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

http://www.reptilesupply.com/product.php?products_id=404

Try that link. $27.99


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## DarkCobra (Jun 22, 2004)

Nice idea, but I see some potential problems.

The pumps used in commercial aquarium filters use a rotating impellor. They are silent and have smooth flow.

Many pumps for pond, fountain, and utility use a reciprocating diaphragm, just like cheap aquarium air pumps. They move water in quick cycles, not smoothly. This means extra noise and vibration that will be transmitted right up through your hoses and into your tank. Will that stress fish? I don't know.

When a commercial canister filter pump wears out, you buy a new impellor. When a diaphragm pump goes out, you buy a new pump.

Regarding the cracked plastic people are experiencing, probably the best way to repair that is solvent welding. It's been too long since I've done it to remember specific details, or maybe the solvents killed those brain cells.  The usable solvents will differ according to type of plastic. You can often tell what plastic a container is made out of by looking for the recycling symbol on the bottom - each number corresponds to a certain type of plastic. If anyone is interested, I'm sure Google will be helpful.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

DIY is fun, no doubt about that. My experience with making my own light fixture taught me that I don't save money this way, and end up with a lesser product. So, for me, the question is: is the fun worth enough to offset that? I'm still not sure. Also, I found that the odds and ends needed for a DIY project really do add up, even though they are very cheap individually. Now, having said all of that, I would really enjoy building a cannister filter - and, of course save a bundle of money too. (Us old dogs just never learn.)


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

Hey Rex, which link? Is it this one: http://www.aqugrass.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=9668

Anyways, for me I already have a two pumps and I just need a container and those L shape connectors which (I think) can be found here: http://cgi.ebay.com/Aquarium-Air-Co...oryZ3212QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

No this link http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=404


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

Rex Grigg said:


> No this link http://www.reptilesupply.com/product...roducts_id=404


This link didn't work for me, although the first one did. Great price, but with shipping it will be the same as if I just got it around here. 

For me, it's not just about the price, I'm going to try to make one that is better is some aspects than the turtle filter. Whether or not it works out is a different story. For me anyways, this one I'm doing DIY now anyways. I'll report as to whether or not it was worth it later...


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## kenneth_kpe (Jan 25, 2005)

im tracking this thread, im planning on making one too for my 2.5 gal nano, im planning on turning it into a co2 reactor/filter to save nano space  

*btw while reading around ive noticed that people use a burp line for their DIY canisters ?? what is that for ?


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## Wasserpest (Jun 12, 2003)

I love DIY, and I try to plan it in a way that I don't get a more expensive, lesser product at the end. I don't count the hours spent on it either, that's why it's a hobby. 

Anyways... the problem I see with this contraption is how do you get the hose connection water proof, in a way that they withstand the vaccuum that builds up in the canister? Just shmearing a little silicone around the cracky drilled holes doesn't sound like a long term solution?

There is another way where you use the DI/RO cartridges which come already with inlet/outlet. But they are so expensive that you'd have to ask yourself why not to buy a real canister filter.

All the little water pumps that I have come across have a little magnetic impeller. No diaphragms. Interesting info though.


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## JBN (Oct 31, 2005)

I've thought of that too Wasserpest, how the container can be leak proof. I don't know if a whole tube of silicone would work but there must be a way...somehow...


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

> Anyways... the problem I see with this contraption is how do you get the hose connection water proof, in a way that they withstand the vaccuum that builds up in the canister? Just shmearing a little silicone around the cracky drilled holes doesn't sound like a long term solution?


The idea is to make a hole a bit smaller than the hose that will go through it and then shove the hose through. It's the same priciple that we use when we make DIY co2 bottles and drill through the cap and pull the airline through. From reading as much as I could from the three websites listed (and looking at the pictures), it seems like one used silicone sealant around the outside of the joints (the first link in the thread), one used some white putty looking stuff around the joints, and the other didn't use anything at all around the seals (the non-English one). 

Can anyone tell what is around the seals of the last like (the Austrailian one)? 

I'm really interested to get this container and try all of this out.


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

I doubt that the small hole large hose method will work with most of these container. The plastic is rather brittle. I have worked a lot with of different plastic containers drilling holes in them for various reasons and most all of them crack if you so much as look at them wrong.

The stress of trying to pull the tubing through the hole will most likely cause a crack or the container to break. Perhaps if you could find some small bulkhead fittings.


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## A Hill (Jul 25, 2005)

ive been thinking about something like this for a while now the only diffrence i was thinking of was to put the pump onto the tank and pump the water under pressure into the container and since its sealed water has to go somewhere so it would come out the outtake pipe... would that work as well? never thought of putting it into the container........:eek5: that would cut down on what you have coming out of ur tank? being able to add a heater and co2 into it would be really cool....

*think*think*think*

fish newb


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

> ve been thinking about something like this for a while now the only diffrence i was thinking of was to put the pump onto the tank and pump the water under pressure into the container and since its sealed water has to go somewhere so it would come out the outtake pipe... would that work as well?


No it would create more problems. There would be much more pressure with the water being FORCED through the output tubes. The original plan has the water basically being siphoned out of the tank into the container and pumped back into the tank. Much less pressure. You don't want pressure with a homemade filter. Way too easy to leak. 

I have been planing to put a heater in mine as soon as my container gets here. Good idea with the co2. I think I will also try it.


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## jgc (Jul 6, 2005)

If you try the small hole method - get a pot of boiling water ready first. If you put the end of the hose in hot water for a handfull of seconds it should really soften up - and might take some of the stress out of the pull through.


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## A Hill (Jul 25, 2005)

oo alrighty... what about a home made hob filter? now that would be something.....:icon_eek: 

i was thinking about manipulating one once so a pump pumped water up to the filter then it came back out.. but thats another topic lol


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## aquamoon (Jul 26, 2004)

Great thread, so i went shopping at target:eek5: ....
and to a hardware shop.............
lock& lock cost me 4$ ...........(2.6L)
tubbing .29 per foot(i bought 5 feet of the stuff:icon_redf )
pump....um...er...well, i know i have one or two ...... 
L thinggie......$6.50($3.25 each.....lost the frist one that i bought)
plac. hose .58 per foot (one foot)
TOTAL SO FAR>>>$12.53 PLUS gas and tax....
and add one dollar for the water bottle that i was going to use.........
so that leaves me $1.47 under my $15.00 bugett( spell check)

please pardon my little dots....they dont know how to behave..


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## aquamoon (Jul 26, 2004)

um...welllll.....i forgot that i got some O-rings(no silicone)....
THAT PUT ME $.73 over my 15$ mark..........:icon_roll


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

Let us know how it turns out. That the exact same container that I plan on using. I'm interested to hear how the o-ring idea works.


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## aquamoon (Jul 26, 2004)

so i just did a test run..............
the o rings did the trick.....
the seal is better than the container seal...small air leak around the edges....
my tip to fix this problem....veggie oil(put it on all rubber seals):thumbsup: 
also i used a NEW wood paddle bit to make the holes (like opening a bottle of wine) 


Fosty............the 2.6L container is very, very nice........

....um.. i think i lost some dots.........

*edit.....the "o-rings" that i used are called Grommets at a auto shop *


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## littlecobra1977 (Dec 6, 2005)

Ok after reading this a week ago I decided to try it myself. Just a guess but all together I spent less then 10.00 for all the stuff I needed. I already had the silicone and pump. I found my local grocery store had the tub with the locking lids in only 4 sizes. I bought the biggest they had. Its 10 inches tall and 3 inches square. I have already built it and tested it but now I have a couple questions. 
1) how did you all attatch the pump to the lid?
2) all of my holes in the lid and side seal but the lid to the tub leaks, how do you solve this problem? Bigger O ring? 
I have to say this is an ingenious idea. 

Thank you Shane


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## tazcrash69 (Sep 27, 2005)

littlecobra1977 said:


> 2) all of my holes in the lid and side seal but the lid to the tub leaks, how do you solve this problem? Bigger O ring?
> 
> Thank you Shane


Bigger O-ring should work, or how about running a bead of silicone along the top of the container, or in the lip of the top, & let dry. Should make a seal when the lid is secured down.


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## littlecobra1977 (Dec 6, 2005)

Hey I got mine done but Im waiting on a few supplies to get it up and running. I found out a few helpful things. 
1) Dont silicone the pump to the lid, it wont hold for long. So I took mine off and cleaned it as well as possible to remove the silicone. I then took my dremal tool with a sanding tip and sanded the whole top of the pump, the spot where the pump will be located, as well as where the power cord and outlet would be. Then I hot glued it all in palce and tryed to get the hot glue to seal up as much as possible. 
2)Use the silicone after a test run to find where it leaks and it dont. No use in siliconing the whole thing if it dont need it. its a hassle if you foundthat it leaks some where else after you have sealed most of what you think would leak. 
3)Put a light film of silicone on the lids O-ring to be safe that that part dont leak. 
Ok Ok heres the pics of mine 
Here it is altogether 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/littlecobra1977/000_0428.jpg 
Heres the lid pics 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/littlecobra1977/000_0424.jpg 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/littlecobra1977/000_0425.jpg 
Heres the tub itself 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/littlecobra1977/000_0427.jpg 
Heres the cord I had to cut and splice back together 
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v627/littlecobra1977/000_0426.jpg
Please tell me what you think
Shane


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## aquamoon (Jul 26, 2004)

Shane...looks done.....how did you fix the problem with the container lid seal.....the one that Ive made has no silicone and is interchangeable with bigger pump and hoses.......the Grommets are a great way to seal the air leaks.....thank for the up-date........ 




dots for sale........

EDIT....need to read post .....then toss my dots around


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## Fosty (Oct 17, 2003)

I started mine today. It's been the first time I have gotten any spare time since I got the parts almost two weeks ago. I will post pictures and comments once I finish it.


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## littlecobra1977 (Dec 6, 2005)

Hey Aquamoon, to solve my problem of the lid leaking I pulled the seal out and laid a thin layer of silicone on it and then installed it back in the lid. I let this dry for around 2 days. I tested it and found the lid still leaked. So I put anouther layer of silicone on the seal while it was still installed in the lid and that took care of the lid leaking. Im still testing the whole unit to make 100% sure it wont be leaking, but either way its going to be sitting in a 10 bucket just to be on the safe side. I dont want soggy floors or a drained tank. I just need to figure out how to hold the hoses in place at a certain depth with out them falling out or dropping any deeper.
Shane


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## aquaphish (Dec 20, 2002)

Rex Grigg said:


> You need to fix your link.
> 
> And here it comes. That container is $7 plus shipping. Then you have the price of the pump and your time. The tubing and connectors.
> 
> I will admit that DIY can be fun. But it looks to me like you will end up with an expensive filter that may or may not work. Why not just get the Zoo Med 501?


Your right Rex!!!

I was looking at this for my new 8 gal. Do you know if you can adjust the flow? I am a little conserned if I get one it might be just a little too turbulant for an 8 gal. Right now i just have a HOB Whisper 10 which seems to work ok for now.

Reading the complete thread I got my own ideas of a filter using an old Rio pump I used for a DIY CO2 reactor I built. It's just in the dream state right now but just might be in CAD version very soon!!!


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## Rex Grigg (Dec 10, 2002)

There is no way with the Zoo Med to reduce the flow. But I doubt you will have many problems with too much flow.


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## imnappy2 (Aug 6, 2004)

Rex. Have you compared the Zoo Med 501 with the Toms Mini Canister I have seen talk about? I am also curious that I have not seen anyone build a mini inline co2 reactor for the Zoo Med. I just picked up a new 2.5 lb co2 tank and all the fixins to put on my 4 gallon for my work desk. But what about the inline reactor?


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

I'm with Wasserpest on this one too.

Some nice bulkhead fittings would work but that becomes more expensive again.


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

I've had a few ideas on incorporating the heater into the cannister, and making it just gerally bigger, I'm dealing with a pretty small nano and I don't want anything in the tank that doesn't have to be there.

As for the fittings to get water in and out of the tank safely? I'll let you know after the weekend, as I'm going to try and find some cheap bulkhead fittings for this.


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## cprroy73 (Nov 10, 2004)

Use PVC white crapper pipe. In either the 3 inch or 4inch size. I think you can get flat end caps for the bottom probably can drill the side for the input line, and a threaded top cap with a threaded hole in the top or make your own. Pvc much easier to work with. You can also get the nylon barbed fittings. All of this can be found at HD or Lowes. It doesnt have to be clear tupperware. You would just have to mount the pump inside.

I may try this for my 10gal I am starting. It has a mini aquaclear now.

Could probably make a seperate camber for heater and co2 and link them together.


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

I'm acutally thinking of a clear plastic tub style bottle, for keeping soups in and the like.

I really do like the idea of seeing into it as it will give me an idea of how everything is running.

I have some ideas for making this look "not so DIY" as anything that looks 2nd rate irritates me if I see it.


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

This is a simple mud map of what I'm trying to do atm.


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## Bombay (Mar 3, 2006)

Question: With the water pump situated at the top of the container, what happens with the power goes out, the siphon back-flows into the tank (effectively stopping the siphon I assume), and then the electricity comes back on? Most water pumps will only run a short time without water...and then they burn up.

I was planning a diy canister. Purchased all the plumbing parts...epoxy glue, etc...and was up to around $30. Now, if it worked well, it would be money well spent.

With that all said, yes it is fun beyond (cost and time) to see a diy project come to a successful completion. Even if they don't work out in the end, there are always lessons to be learned.

My lesson was to stop driving all over fricken town (or searching the internet) for the "right" parts, the best price on a pump, etc etc.

My two cents.


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## milalic (Aug 25, 2005)

Rex Grigg said:


> Only thing you have to watch is time and money. With the Zoo Med 501 available for under $30 I would have to be able to build the filter for less than $10 and in less than an hour to make it work for me.



Where is this available under $30?

Thanks!


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## josh_simonson (Mar 2, 2006)

If you use PVC it may be possible to glue the pump to the lid with PVC cement. That stuff is pretty effective. 4" pvc fittings are pretty expensive though.

No reason this couldn't be done with a canning jar either. Just use a dremel with a diamond bit to cut the inlet hole. We know silicone will stick to it well, and also that it'll seal tight.

Another way to drill plastic without cracking it - a hot nail or the butt of a hot drillbit. The plastic will not crack, and in many cases will have a thicker rim around the hole that will strengthen it.


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

What happens to a Fluval in a power outage?

It has the pump at the top.


Provided it's filled to the top and the air has a place to escape it wont siphon, it will find it's own level. Considering most cannsiter filters are below the water line of tank it makes the whole system a U, with submerged ends.


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## cbennett (Oct 20, 2005)

just bumping this up...

for those of you that made them, how are the DIY filters working?


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## Ohatt03 (Feb 26, 2007)

*canister filter*

Hi Guys,

I'm offering what I think most of you will find most valuable if trying to make one of these things. I made my canister out of a lock n' lock plastic snap on top container. I fitted all of my hoses, and siliconed them in place, allowing the silicone to cure for 48 hours. When I put my canister into use for the first time, it worked GREAT...I mean really great. I have a good pump that a friend gave me from the local pet store and it really pushes some good flow. I put my filter in place under my aquarium stand, and went to bed feeling proud of myself. 3 AM came, i hear the doorbell ring. It was my landord, he says our neighbour (downstairs) is complaining about water leaking through their kitchen ceiling. I instantly check the filter, and sure enough it is leaking everywhere around the pump at the top. I felt pretty stupid for making this mistake and not testing it more. Anyways, i've come up with what is essentially a LEAK PROOF design. So pay attention

1.I sanded down all the parts that needed to be bonded, and used Plastic Cement, (which works by slightly melting the plastics together to bond them) to seal the pump to the lid of the filter, and he output hose to the pump (which protrudes from the cover). Allow to dry for 24 hours.

2. I used silicone overtop of the plastic cement which was now dry and holding everything in place, just for good measure incase any water gets by the initial bond. Wait 24 hours.

3. Here's the important part, that basically took all the worries out of my mind of the filter EVER leaking. I got my hands on some fiberglass resin compound. I coated all of my silicone and plastic cement work in the fiberglass compound. When this hardens it is totally waterproof and very hard and durable. It looks messy, but my canister is going to be out of sight under my stand, so its fine by me.

Just remember, the seal at the top (output back to tank) has to be the strongest! The pressure from the pump pusing the water out tries to push the hose off of the filter. You need to stop this from happening.


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## Blacksunshine (Oct 11, 2006)

imnappy2 said:


> Rex. Have you compared the Zoo Med 501 with the Toms Mini Canister I have seen talk about? I am also curious that I have not seen anyone build a mini inline co2 reactor for the Zoo Med. I just picked up a new 2.5 lb co2 tank and all the fixins to put on my 4 gallon for my work desk. But what about the inline reactor?


I'm sorry I am replying a couple weeks late. But I have both the tom's and the Zoo Med on my 20 gal. the major diff's on the cans is the tubing. The Zoo med comes with regular PVC tubing like all cannisters do. where the toms for some reason has some weird crinkled tubing. you will not be able to use the tubing that comes with the toms unit for any inline features and it can be a little difficult to work with for getting placement of the intake and spraybar due to the fixed nature of these connections. It makes for an aqward instalation and has some difficulty fitting the connectors over the lip of the tank. I will be replacing all these parts on mine to more functional connections, possibly contacting the MFG of the 501 and getting the same like parts. Flow on the two is very similar however I prefer the build quality of the Zoo med to the toms. however the toms has a cool flow gauge built in.


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## 051009 (Jan 28, 2007)

Just curious, how is this any different from a HOB filter? How would this house/grow more beneficial bacteria?


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

A word of warning.

Mine had a stainless lid on it, and after nearly a year of running it's corroded enough to leak THROUGH the lid.

Not good, I suggest that anyone considering doing this with steel components, don't.


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## RoyalFizbin (Mar 7, 2006)

Just wanted to share this link to another diy canister. It's in russian but you can see that the guy is using a maxijet 750 externally mounted on the top. Most people here seem to think that a powerhead can't be used in this fashion but i see no reason to belive that it would be a problem. 
For years my cousin has been running a powerhead over an under gravel filter. His powerhead is positioned such that it is almost all higher than the water line with only the bottom section in the water so that the water splashes back down to airate the water. This powerhead has probably ran 6 years and hasn't failed.




http://lis.aqa.ru/bigcan/bigcan.html


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## edacsac (Nov 13, 2006)

I like the contruction with solid fittings in that link. I've been wanting to make one of these, maybe just for inline co2 and some extra flow to compliment my other canister filter (need some reason to make one).


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

I like these little DIy canister filters...but how do you prime the intake and get the air out without cavitating the powerhead?


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

you suck it.


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Curare said:


> you suck it.


sounds awfully sophisticated...there has to be a better way. 


anyone have any pics of these things that you guys have been building? 

Anyone try using a bulkhead fitting, that was recomended earlier in this post?

Anyone consider using a canister that had a screw on top as opposed to a compression seal? Would seem that a screw threaded top would be easier to seal and if needed would only need a little coaching. On top of that, it would have tremendous resistance to the pressure build up.


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## yoko (Mar 16, 2007)

gmccreedy said:


> ...
> Anyone consider using a canister that had a screw on top as opposed to a compression seal? Would seem that a screw threaded top would be easier to seal and if needed would only need a little coaching. On top of that, it would have tremendous resistance to the pressure build up.


I totally thought of that and was wondering if anyone else had thought of that or had tried it!?!?!?

I have some "Pokemon" water bottles that I never gave to my cousin and it has a built in straw in it + screw lid. I was going to try that.... 

While at work today, I goggled "Thermos" and a vaccum thermos is $$$ and I figured that totally defeats the purpose of trying to save money...........


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## Treasure Chest (Mar 22, 2006)

I think the Russian design is more like a calcium reactor using an inline pump and a reactor chamber. By putting filter media in the chamber, it becomes a canister filter. Bright idea. For the priming part, you can make something like Eheim priming aid kit (http://www.eheim.com/Spareparts/Priming Aid.pdf).


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## Curare (Sep 15, 2004)

gmccreedy said:


> sounds awfully sophisticated...there has to be a better way.
> 
> 
> anyone have any pics of these things that you guys have been building?
> ...



Yes there is a better way, get someone else to suck it. Once the siphon effect kicks in it's pretty much on it's way. You're making this yourself because it's cheap, if you want a priming circuit then that increases the cost, so just suck it and see..

The bulkhead fittings do work extremely well, they haven't let a drop of water out of the top, just make sure that you go for the "belt and braces" method of fitting them in with some silicon around the seal as the gasket they give you is pretty thin, and there's not a lot to seal onto.


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## blueguppygirl (Oct 30, 2006)

gmccreedy said:


> anyone have any pics of these things that you guys have been building?


I have a lot of pictures. I can write up a new post with directions to how I built mine if anyone is interested. Just let me know.


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## Green Leaf Aquariums (Feb 26, 2007)

I would like to see some pictures. I think Im going to make one


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## Gatekeeper (Feb 20, 2007)

Curare said:


> The bulkhead fittings do work extremely well, they haven't let a drop of water out of the top, just make sure that you go for the "belt and braces" method of fitting them in with some silicon around the seal as the gasket they give you is pretty thin, and there's not a lot to seal onto.


where did you get the bulkead fittings? Hardware store?


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## epicfish (Sep 11, 2006)

www.savko.com
www.drsfosterandsmith.com

I don't suck on it...I have either the outflow or intake end in the tank. I blow on the other end until bubbles start coming out the end in the tank, then I just let the water siphon backwards to fill it up.


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## FelixAvery (Jan 11, 2007)

http://cgi.ebay.com/Nano-Aquarium-T...emZ300091188508QQcategoryZ46310QQcmdZViewItem
if u cant be othered making one ^^

FOR ALL YOU GUYS TRYING TO DRILL!!!!
if you are experienceing problems use a solder iron (hot obviously) to poke through the plastic and widen the hole a bit, make it a bit smaller than the tube and push the tube through whilst still melty to create a good crack free joint, solder it for safety


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## Guillermo (Dec 19, 2005)

I build one and works like a charm.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/29390-nano-cannister-filter-56-k-w.html

For the air trapped, after putting the air tubing and the valve, it was gone.

Hope this helps.


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