# Acceptable PAR for Anubias



## ustabefast (Jan 24, 2017)

I think your lighting should be fine. I know aquarists who successfully grow anubias using only indirect lighting from nearby windows.


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

I would start at 7 hours then slowly adjust from there. My Anubias leaves are between 50-70 par at leaf level with my Finnex 24/7 which stays at max setting for 10 hours a day. I would not recommend this light intensity or length though as I run high tech with EI ferts to accommodate all my plant needs. So start on the lower end and adjust slowly. I am sure that par level would be sufficient for them in a low tech environment. 


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## Quizcat (Dec 21, 2014)

I know that Anubias is supposed to be one of the easiest plants, but I've been having an issue with leaves turning yellow, and eventually dying, turning brown at the tips, and literally skeletalizing until the stems drop off the plant. The tank gets ambient light in the room during the day, and I had been turning on the light in the evening for about 7 hours. 

The light I had was a Current Marine LED light with all the bells and whistles. But, it was a Marine light, and I suspected that perhaps the problems I was having with the Anubias was because the light was delivering light spectrums that were detrimental to the Anubias in a freshwater tank, even though I had reduced the output of the Marine light by 50%. So, concerned the the light was mismatched with the tank, freshwater versus saltwater, I sold the Current LED Marine light, and have been testing new freshwater lights for the last few weeks.

First i tried the "Beamswork DA 6500K 0.50W Series LED Pent Aquarium Light Freshwater Plant Discus" LED light. But, I began to suspect that perhaps it was dosing too much light in the tank. I was starting to see some Algae on the glass, and theorized that perhaps the light spectrum being introduced to the tank was excessive for the Anubias, and also responsible for the algae beginning to form on the glass. 

So, I sent the the Beamswork "DA" back to Amazon.com, and got the Finnex Ray2 to test out. While testing out the Finnex Ray2, I noticed some algae starting to actually form not only on the glass, but also on the leaves of the Anubias. I again concluded that the tank was still getting too much light. So, I reduced the time the light was on to only three hours, and that brought the algae back under control. But, three hours was less than the amount of time I wanted to have the light on, so I could enjoy the tank in the evenings.

I decided I wanted a light that introduced less light to the tank than the first two I tried from Beamswork and Finnex, something that would at least provide enough light to nourish the Anubias, but I also wanted a light that has some RED in the mix to promote photosynthesis, as well as some blue LEDs to illuminate the Glow Fish in the tank. The Finnex Ray 2 had neither red or blue, and I also think it was introducing too much light to the tank in relation to the amount of time that I wanted to have the light on in the evening. 

While trying to figure out what was causing the problem with the Anubias, I also had a theory about having a lack of ferts/minerals in the water column, and that perhaps Anubias was "starving." I have a whole house water softener, and I suspected that because I was using softened water for my water changes, perhaps the minerals were being depleted through the water softening process, which is salt based where the salt is expelled from the system after the resin collector is cleaned automatically within the water softener. 

I have (4) Glowfish, (4) Cory Catfish, (2) Otocinclus, and (1) Gupply in the tank. I don't think that fertilizers are lacking with (11) fish in a 29 gallon tank. That having been said...I've been dosing Seachem Flourish, Potassium, and Iron after 40-50% weekly water changes, just in case the depletion of minerals by the water softener was causing the issue with the Anubias leaves dying, and to make sure there's enough nourishment for the Anubias. Ammonia = 0, Nitrites = 0, Nitrates = 5ppm. "KH" hardness is very high, and can not be reduced by the water softener, but "GH" is very low via the water softener.

I've trimmed all of the dead and dying leaves, and am left with just the younger leaves. The Rhizomes and remaining leaves appear to all be healthy. I'm still dosing ferts/minerals at each water change. But, there hasn't been sufficient time to evaluate whether the trimming, dosing of ferts/minerals, and change to the next light to be tested are correcting the problems.

I am now testing the "Beamswork EA Timer FSPEC" LED Light, which has Red, White, Blue, and Green LEDs, and the blue LEDs can be independently selected for illuminating the Glow Fish. I've increased the time the light is on from three hours to five hours. 

Maybe the leaves I was losing were just getting old, and their dying was just a natural progression. But, there were enough of them all dying at the same rate, that I theorized that the issue was something else, that it has either been lighting related, or mineral/fertilizer depletion.

With the Beamswork "EA" series light, the PAR varies in the tank from about 17 at the substrate to about 38 at the level of the leaves that are closest to the light. I've reset the timer to about 5 hours to start with, and the Anubias does receive ambient indirect natural light during the day. 

If anyone has any observations, or suggestions that would point toward another potential cause for my issues with the Anubias, please comment. 



clownplanted said:


> I would start at 7 hours then slowly adjust from there. My Anubias leaves are between 50-70 par at leaf level with my Finnex 24/7 which stays at max setting for 10 hours a day. I would not recommend this light intensity or length though as I run high tech with EI ferts to accommodate all my plant needs. So start on the lower end and adjust slowly. I am sure that par level would be sufficient for them in a low tech environment.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Quizcat said:


> I know that Anubias is supposed to be one of the easiest plants, but I've been having an issue with leaves turning yellow, and eventually dying, turning brown at the tips, and literally skeletalizing until the stems drop off the plant. The tank gets ambient light in the room during the day, and I had been turning on the light in the evening for about 7 hours.
> 
> The light I had was a Current Marine LED light with all the bells and whistles. But, it was a Marine light, and I suspected that perhaps the problems I was having with the Anubias was because the light was delivering light spectrums that were detrimental to the Anubias in a freshwater tank, even though I had reduced the output of the Marine light by 50%. So, concerned the the light was mismatched with the tank, freshwater versus saltwater, I sold the Current LED Marine light, and have been testing new freshwater lights for the last few weeks.
> 
> ...


First off I want to say excellent work with all of the details. This helps in troubleshooting a great deal and shows you are on the right track with trying stuff. As far as the lighting you were on the right track and the Beamswork would of been perfect. This plant is a hardy plant and can be found in low to medium light setups and will do good in both. 

Now on to the issues that I see. First lets get into the lighting. You were correct in the fact that the Marine LED and the Finnex Ray 2 were providing WAY too much light. The Marine Light is meant for salt water. And the Ray 2 is meant for high light setups. So of course you are going to get a ton of algae with either especially if you are not providing the proper nutrients to your plant or plants and with that high of light you would absolutely need co2. The Beamswork would be the perfect light for this plant.

Now on to the nutrients for the plant/plants. All plants need nutrients whether through the water column(through leaves)a or roots or in most cases plants can uptake nutrients through both. But the fact of the matter is they need nutrients. Now there are different ways that you can give them nutrients. They can through excess food, fish poop. However usually the case in our common aquarium there is far too little to be sufficient for providing a maintaining/thriving plant. This is why we feed our plants either by dosing and or root tabs or both. Fact is they need it one way or another. The good thing about this plant is it can uptake nutrients through root tabs or by dosing micros/macros. So whatever would be easier for you I would go with. You can do DIY root tabs using osmocote plus and some gel caps and simply place them directly underneath each plant, these tabs would be good for at least 3 months. You want to go as far down in the substrate as possible with the root tabs. Or you could get something like NilocG sells which is Thrive All in One. Just a couple squirts a day is all you need and will provide all of the nutrients that your plants need. I would honestly go this route because it would have a wider range of applications meaning any plants you would have or get would benefit from the liquid nutrients. Again fact of the matter is the plants need nutrients and why I feel that your plant/plants are not doing good. 

The thing is its all about balance and if your tank is not in balance the algae will thrive like it did in this case. Plants need good light and nutrients in order to thrive and if they have both algae will not be able to. By lacking in one or the other or both algae will gain the advantage everytime. 

Here is a link to the nilocg fertilizer that is all that you would need. Thrive 500ml | Premium Liquid Fertilizer | NilocG Aquatics

Also re-read your post and another important aspect is your plants need Nitrates and Phosphates. So by you having 5 nitrates your plants are of course starving. The good thing about the Thrive is it will provide the correct amount your plants will need. It is recommended to have between 10-30 nitrates for the plants. You also need phosphates in your water to feed the plants. If you are at 0 then this is also an issue.

Also keep in mind that Flourish, pottasium, and Iron are not enough. you in the case of the flourish line would also need to provide the trace elements. I was at one point using the Flourish line and there is a whole bunch of bottles you need to dose each week just to give the plants what they need. So what you have is not quite enough. You would need Flourish, Phosphorus, Nitrogen, pottasium, trace, advance. Also by you softening your water you are most likely low in calcium which plants also need. This is a very important aspect that is often overlooked but is very consequential. 

Just want to again harp on the issue that its all about balance. If anything is out of balance algae will gain hold. Your plants will only be as good and grow to their weekest link. So by not having all required nutrients they cannot use much if any of the light since photosynthesis is really not happening and therefore the algae is able to use and thrive with just about any amount of light and almost any amount of nutrients. Once you give the plants what they need as far as lightning and and all required nutrients you will see the tables turn.

So to sum it up here is what I would do in your case and I can promise you that if you follow this your plants will thrive.

Stick with the beamswork light. It is plenty for this plant and other low light plants.
Get the NilocG Thrive all in one fert and dose as directed. You can also do the root tabs but not absolutely required.
If softening your water ensure you have enough calcium for the plants. NilocG also sells a GH booster which would provide the required calcium for plants if you are re-conditioning your water and fall short in the calcium department. 

8 hours a day of lighting is plenty for this light. Too much light can/will cause algae especially in a no co2/low tech environment. 8 hours I feel is perfect for this plant.


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## Dman911 (Nov 24, 2016)

I find these values to be a little high but may provide some idea as to required lighting.

fresh water plant PAR levels - Seneye

Dan


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

Dman911 said:


> I find these values to be a little high but may provide some idea as to required lighting.
> 
> fresh water plant PAR levels - Seneye
> 
> Dan


Awesome link @Dman911 

Agree that a lot of those are a bit high but its great to get an idea like you said.


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## Quizcat (Dec 21, 2014)

Thank you so much for the great advice!!!

I'm going to get some of that Thrive Ferlizer, and give that try. You're right about the Seachem having to be dosed separately...it's a pain!

I've been trying to establish a perfect balance in the tank, but what I interpreted before as having a perfect balance may actually be an out of balance condition where the Anubias is concerned. 

I began to be so very strict about achieving as close to zero as possible on the test kit because for several years I struggled with Brown Diatoms. Then, I realized it was due to my own neglect concerning water changes. So, I became very determined in completing water changes regularly, doing them once a week, and replacing 40-50% each time. I haven't had brown diatoms for probably 8 months or more as a result. So, when I figured that out, I decided it would be a good idea to do whatever was necessary to keep everything as close to zero as possible, and I've been striving to do that. 

For example, I've been using K1 micro in a homemade fluidized bed to establish a biofilter that will consume greater amounts of ammonia by cultivating the higher levels of ammonia consuming bacteria through increased surface area on the K1.

I've also been using Biohome (RED) media to not only establish the bacteria that will consume greater amounts of ammonia, but also consume more Nitrates. The Biohome media is supposed to provide a the deep pores, where bacteria that consume nitrates can thrive, as well as provide more surface area to consume greater amounts of ammonia. 

I've also been using Seachem Phosguard bags in the HOB filter, thinking that it would further absorb ammonia and nitrates. 

I've been striving to get as close to zero ammonia, zero nitrites, and zero nitrates as possible using these various methodologies, and doing a pretty good job of it apparently, Ammonia = 0, Nitrites = 0, Nitrates = 5ppm. 

I assume that the high KH readings primarily reflect the high amount of Limestone in our public well water. We have a lot of Limestone in my area, and the water is very, very hard. I'm not sure if high levels of Limestone in the area, and a high KH level, translates to sufficient calcium being in the water column or not. 

In addition, PH is also very high, around 7.8-9 on the scale...

The water softener has brought the GH down to the very lowest levels attainable, around 6 I think. I didn't think that calcium is something that my water softener is capable of removing, hence the high KH readings (?). But, perhaps I am also lacking calcium.









clownplanted said:


> Now on to the nutrients for the plant/plants...
> 
> Here is a link to the nilocg fertilizer that is all that you would need. Thrive 500ml | Premium Liquid Fertilizer | NilocG Aquatics
> 
> ...


Bump: Thank you for the link...very interesting. The light I am currently testing doesn't achieve the levels referred to for Anubias, but many have said that Anubias can thrive just on very low levels, just on ambient light in the room, and through windows. So, while I think I was most definitely introducing too much light for Anubias, I think I'm probably on the right track now with the Beamswork F series light, and by keeping it low tech.



Dman911 said:


> I find these values to be a little high but may provide some idea as to required lighting.
> 
> fresh water plant PAR levels - Seneye
> 
> Dan


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## clownplanted (Mar 3, 2017)

You want between .5 and 5ppm of phosphate for your plants so I would consider removing the phosguard. I was looking into getting but is not good for planted tanks like carbon is not. And nitrates like I said between 10-30ppm. When I first got into plants I also did not know I needed nitrates but with no nitrates your plants will starve. As long as you have a gh of 6 you should be good? But is no garantee that enough of that is calcium. Because of this uncertainty I dose the gh booster I referred even though I also have a gh of 6. A common calcium deficiency is curling and bending of leaves. I had some doing this and was immediately fixed when I started using the gh booster that has the calcium your plants will need. Good thing is you just need to add once a week right after you do your large water change. 

Also want to add my tap ph is also high at exactly 8. My kh and gh at 6. Plants especially your Anubis will do just fine in this water as mine does. 

You are on the right track and soon enough your plants will be thriving. 


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