# Excel and algae bloom



## Mermaid (May 9, 2005)

I have not been on here in a long time I am ashamed to say. I have a 75 gal heavily planted tank that is pretty much low maintenance. I noticed I was getting some BBA on some anubas so I decided to dose some Excel. Big mistake! I got up the next day to an algae bloom. I have changed out my filter and put puragen in it. I have reduced the lighting but that is not going to please my plants. Will it clear or will I have to do some water changes to get it under control? I have zero nitrates and all other parameters are great. Any tips or solutions? I have been away from you all and I have lost touch with the experts. I promise not to do it again.
So many of you have helped me in the past. I have just got swamped by my job and I'm doing a freelance job at home too. Hopefully if I get rid of this algae bloom, how can I get rid of the black algae without creating havoc. I do not do co2. 

thanks for anyone's help and time,

Mermaid


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## Homer_Simpson (May 10, 2007)

When you say dose Excel, I am assuming that you added it to the tank. Try spot treating with excel using a syringe. Just curious, how long do you run your lights, try reducing the photo-period. 

I had a bad case of BBA in my 40 gallon and got a Siamese Algae Eater. He went through the BBA like knife through butter and all but devoured it. Some people have success with Siamese Algae Eaters eating BBA, others do not. It is something that you could try. 

Keep spot treating with excel, increase water changes to 2X week and spot treat right after every water change. Eventually, if everything else is in order, the BBA should go away and your tank should regain balance.


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## Digsy (Mar 4, 2006)

Having zero nitrates is definitely giving the algae a helping hand too. What kind of lighting do you have? Do you have CO2? You mentioned the tank was low maintenance but, I wasn't sure if you meant low tech...


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## Mermaid (May 9, 2005)

Ok, I thought having zero nitrates was a good thing. Of course I used to be a reef tanker person so that is where I'm coming from. I know if the nitrates gets too high the fish start rubbing themselves. I have a low tech tank. No CO2.

I already have a siamese algaeeater. Thought about getting some Ottos but they seem not to live long.

I know I need to do a serious water change because of the matter collecting in the bottom areas. I do have surface water movement with my filter. 

This tank has been doing super until now. Seem like the excel just sent it over the edge. I know I am not overstocked with fish. In fact I need more.

I increased my light output because any red plant I put in it would just turn green or deteriate. Green is good, but any other color would die.

Hopefully the water change and bottom syphon will help to bring it back.

Just what I need for Christmas! Tank maintenance!:icon_roll 

Thanks for your help,
Mermaid


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## Mermaid (May 9, 2005)

Well I did some reading on the forum and some say take away nitrates and some say add. Some say add phosphates and some say take away.
I'm confused. I hope my tank looks better tonight when I come home.

Mermaid


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## Homer_Simpson (May 10, 2007)

Mermaid said:


> Well I did some reading on the forum and some say take away nitrates and some say add. Some say add phosphates and some say take away.
> I'm confused. I hope my tank looks better tonight when I come home.
> 
> Mermaid


I am by no means an expert on aquarium plants and algae, and all I can share with you is what I have seen first hand. Although not new and many hobbyists and gurus have been saying this, I have seen algae begin taking root when plants start doing/growing poorly. It is almost a given as I have now seen it in more than one tank. The reason that the plants do poorly is usually due to some nutrient deficiency. If you have a low tech tank, overtime nutrients in the water column may become depleted and fish waste may not always be enough to compensate. Even the substrate will eventually become devoid of nutrients. This creates an environment friendly to the growth of many types of algae. If you have a low tech tank, you may still need to dose in very minute quantities, some ferts in order to prevent plant deficiency issues and the possiblity of a hostile algae takeover of your tank. I would suggest doing water changes two times a week for a while to get rid of some of the excess organics that may be feeding the algae, dosing some nitrates, potassium, phosphates, and a trace element fertilizer like Seachem Fluorish Comprehensive with every water change. You only need do this once or twice a week. I would also suggest that you cut down your lighting period, and continue with excel at twice the dose with every water change. Also, try and add some floating plants, like cardamine or egera densa, temporarily. I have seen on more than one occasion where I had tried everything and lost hope that the algae would ever go away and then miraculously after adding floating plants, the algae seemed to quickly recede after 2-3 weeks of adding the floating plans. Hang in there and do these things and eventually, your tank will snap out of it and regain its pristine lustre. 

Also, did any fish die lately and are all your fish accounted for. Sometimes a un-noticed fish death will cause a major ammonia spike which in turn could give rise to a major algae bloom.

I really don't believe that the Excel caused the algae bloom. If anything, it was probably a coincidence, nothing more and nothing else.

Good Luck


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## Mermaid (May 9, 2005)

When I got home my tank was clear. I don't know if doing a small water change last night and cleaning and putting new purigen in my filter helped or what. One thing I know I have learned my lesson. A low maintenance tank can make you lazy. I have not done water changes like I should and especially siphoning the bottom. I have a lot of debris in my tank. Which I am sure effects the water flow as well. That tank is getting cleaned! I narrowedly escaped disaster. Learn from my lesson. Don't forget your tank.
I would like to start back with excel after I get some nutrients out of my tank. One thing I have been doing is running a air stone when the lights are off. Is that necessary since I'm not doing CO2? My tank is med to heavy planted. Also does anyone use plant tabs instead of putting ferts in the water column?

Thanks for all your help.
Mermaid


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## bastalker (Dec 8, 2004)

Well I read the thread, an ya never mentioned anything about lighting. This in itself is a huge piece to this equasion. What is the tank size? What do ya have for lighting?

What ya want is a huge fish load, feedin alot. A butt load a plants, and 1.5 watts a lighting PG that is on about 6-8 hours. This will give the plants the lighting they need, an feedin the fish heavy will in turn give the plants the ferts they need. 


tc
Mark


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## Mermaid (May 9, 2005)

I have a 75 gal. My lighting is a power compact with 2 bulbs and a 4 ft strip light with a plant light fluorescent from Lowes.

My plants are a mixture of:
Java Fern
Lotus that stays small and close to the bottom
Rotula Goias
Crypt Windtii
Wisteria
Melon Swords
African Water fern
Water Sprite
Red Ludwigia that turns green and leaves fall off
Anubias large and small I would like to have more.
And tons of Java Moss. I would like to have less.

Huge pieces of drift wood.

Fish are:
2 lg angels
2 med rainbow fish
2 corys
1 lg clown loach
Assorted Tetras
2 lg goramis
1 lg siamese algae eater

I feed everyother day. Sometimes flake food or frozen brine

Tell me what I need to do different.
What would you recommend?

Thanks,
Mermaid


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## Reeferton (Aug 16, 2007)

The three main nutrients plants need are Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium. Nitrogen (nitrates) and phosphourus (phosphates) are bad for fish, so you don't want these too high, thats usually why people test.
When there is a nutrient lacking, the plants can't grow very well but the algea can.


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