# ISTA inline reactor Review



## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I just purchased a set of the ISTA Mix Max inline reactors (2 medium, one large) and I thought I would review them. 








I bought a medium sized set from my LFS and set it up on a ADA Mini M. I have built and used DIY inline reactors before. The ISTA is priced very reasonably (12 dollars for the medium at DFS, slightly more at my LFS). Compared to the cost in time and materials for a comparable clear bodied DIY reactor, I would have to say it is very reasonable and probably worth it unless you just love to DIY. The acrylic body is easy to see through. It has an offset water intake and a bottom draw that exits through the top of the unit. It has a pair of polyethelene impellers to help mix the CO2. The medium is pretty compact in size. The CO2 intake is barbed and seems to hold the CO2 tubing I used adequately. The base of the unit is removable for cleaning and has an O-ring seal. The design is pretty clean and definitely well thought out. It comes with a few 90 degree polyethylene hose connections and adapters for larger tubing types, that could help with rigging in tight spaces and with other types of tubing, (I used 5/8" ID tubing), unfortunately I didn't used them in the system, so I am unsure how well they will work. It also comes with suction cups and has nubs should you like in tank mounting, which I did not use. My initial impression was pretty positive, everything fit together well.

On initial set up, I found out a few issues. First off, I did not have the base tightened enough, and once water was in the system, I had leaking from the base. Retightened the base and that was fixed. You will have to "burp" the system to get the excess air out of the system, by flipping it over. (I.E. make sure you have enough hose length to accomplish this.) Once I fired up the system, driven by an XP1, I found out that the top impeller would not spin correctly. I could have let it be, I believe the CO2 still would have been integrated into the system (physics are physics), but I tore it down and started the tinkering. Inside the body there was a small molding sprue issue that left a bump on the top of the unit which was hanging up the impeller. The other units also have molding marks, which will require some cleaning up to function smoothly in my opinion. I took a wooden dowel and taped some 150 grit sand paper on to the end and sanded it down. I cleared the obstruction with sanding and reassembled. The top impeller then spun smoothly. After setting the system up for a while and running it, I noticed some small leaking around the intake-outlets. I added metal hose clamps and fixed that. After the system was water tight, I started with CO2 injection. This was quite positive and the rate of integration was rapid. My drop checker bottomed out very quickly, far faster than a pure gravity fed reactor, in my experience. Caution should be exercised if incorporated into a system with livestock (they mention this in the instruction manual). FYI, my Mini M is cycling, so no critters to worry about. The impeller system does make noise, slightly louder than my XP1, especially when actively injecting CO2. When the CO2 system is not injecting and clear of gas, it is significantly quieter. I have had the system running now for a week and no additional issues have come up. 

To reveiw 
Pros: Economical, simple design, fast CO2 integration
Cons: sprue marks which may need correction, some noise, some additional parts necessary (hose clamps)

Anyways, I hope you find the review helpful.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

Thats really ironic I was just about to post asking some questions about it...

I do still have a question though, looking at putting one of these one my tank to help compensate for the CO2 outgassing that I have with my sump system. 

So I will ask you my question, on the large model, what size are the inlet/outletpieces. My return line hose is 1" ID...


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

5/8" inch inlet/ outlet on the large as well. I would just hoo up a power head to drive it in a sump. Don't know how much of a difference it will make in the out gassing problem. I have not run a sump before.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

no u dont need to flip the system to bleed.

All you need to do is take that co2 feed line and put it in a cup. 
The air stuck inside will then be forced outside that co2 feed line, and then once u got all the air out of the system, you put a check valve on it and your set. 

*The 90 degrees are garbage... dont use them.* (bolded so you guys READ this...)
I have done a lot of research on this product and everytime i read about that 90 degree it would always end in LEAK. 

I even tried out that 90 degree attachment and like many others i read, it leaked. 

The 5/8th attachment is in a form of a ring compressor. 

Anyhow... i love that product, i have the large version, and have been using it for a while. 
I have also been pushing the product a lot because ive had good experiences with it. 

When I say you cant do better DIY for cheaper, i mean it. 
It would cost more to build something with less efficiency for the price of the unit, and for the wanted effiency, you would probably need to spend 2x more.

Other notes:
You should tie this on the OUTPORT of your canister filter or sump pump. 
You dont want it on the intake because... if u get something nasty inside, it would be a hassle to have to clean. 

When you do maintance on your canister tho, its a semi pain because u need to rebleed the air... the air in your canister will get trapped in the insta, hence u need to rebleed, but if u do it the way i stated, its not that much of a hassle. 

Here is mine connected next to a eth inline heater.


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

May look at getting one and setting it up in the last chamber of my sump so it sucks in the return.... 

The gas exchange with the sump is higher because the drains introduce more air and churn the water in the first chamber... I may try and convert one or both sides to a full siphon... less air.. I dunno I probably should stop piddling with it


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yeah, true you don't need to flip to bleed, I just shot water all over when I tried the top bleed method and it irritated me


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

endgin28 said:


> Yeah, true you don't need to flip to bleed, I just shot water all over when I tried the top bleed method and it irritated me


 which is why i said get a cup.. and put the line in the cup directly...


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## prototyp3 (Dec 5, 2007)

Nice review. Good to hear they're generally well received reactors as I just ordered two. Sounds like purging air is going to be fun. :hihi:


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## newplant (Nov 11, 2010)

I read on some other website that the ista needs a fairly high flow rate to work. Will it work with 100gph eheim 2232?


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## NWA-Planted (Aug 27, 2011)

newplant said:


> I read on some other website that the ista needs a fairly high flow rate to work. Will it work with 100gph eheim 2232?


 
What size tank is this? The Ista may really not be what you need.


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## newplant (Nov 11, 2010)

This is for the 40g breeder in my signature.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

IMO, it won't spin the blades very fast at all with 2232. That should not prevent the CO2 from incorporating, but you already have a big tank with a little filter. (I owned both a 2232 and 2234) I would just run it off of a maxi jet power head if I wanted to keep the same filtration system.


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

So really Im curious how noisey this unit is. My canister Filter is pretty dead quiet. Im deciding weather to build a Rex or a Cerges reactor or get one of these for my 46 gallon Bow front. BUT I needs to be pretty quiet. The tank is in our bedroom. Thanks!!


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## jack25 (Sep 26, 2011)

Do you need a pressurized CO2 tank system to use this or can I use this with a yeast/sugar CO2 bottle?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Noise wise, when it is running with C02 I would say it is very "hearable". When the gas is dissolved it is fairly quiet, but still makes some noise. If you need silence, I would suggest running a diffusor instead, I have mine in my bedroom as well and it is audible. I plan on adding some acoustic foam to the stand to reduce the sound. 

As far as DIY CO2, I would be cautious. I would at least run a mechanical separation between it and the reactor, definitely NOT directly. The back pressure on reactors are fairly low so getting it into the system will not a problem in my mind, but a DIY blow out would be very messy without a separater. Also the rate of diffusion is very high with the system and controlling DIY is tricky- I would want to test the system without livestock present at first. Of course that would depend on the quantity and quality of the yeast mixture. Obviously check valves are in order.


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## jack25 (Sep 26, 2011)

A mechanical seperator like an in-line valve between the CO2 generator to the reactor? I was thinking of putting the CO2 bottles in a plastic shoe box container so if the cap or hose connection would to leak it would be somewhat contained. Check valves definitely make sense. When the CO2 is depleted, I assumed the water from the reactor would go up the CO2 line into the bottles if the check valve was not present.


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

When I ran DIY CO2 I would run one bottle with the yeast mix, into a separate empty bottle (the seperater), into a line with a check valve into the distributor. If the yeast would blow out (can happen, be prepared) it would dump into the empty bottle and fill that instead of the tank. FWIW, I hated the system and feel that pressurized is the only proper solution, even though more expensive initially. I know some have a lot of luck with DIY, but the mess/ time investment (sterilization, prep) is a little high, given the inconsistency of the system.


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

the insta is not quiet..

if your looking for a quiet solution, its not the insta...

you will hear the gases mixing in the chamber... The more gas u have inside the chamber the louder it becomes.

I am about 15 feet away from my insta, and i can hear it mixing gases. The same applies to the sera reactor. 

The only reactor where i assume u wouldnt hear much is probably the really expensive one with the bioballs inside.


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## prototyp3 (Dec 5, 2007)

It's going to be noisy? :angryfire

Anyone wanna buy some large ISTA reactors?


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

prototyp3 said:


> It's going to be noisy? :angryfire
> 
> Anyone wanna buy some large ISTA reactors?


its not like a jack hammer noise... nor is it close to your filter priming air out...

its more simular to rain falling... but if its inside a cabnet i dont think you would hear it much.

mine is outside, so you can hear it when its mixing gasses... its not as annoying as the box fan i have running in my room keeping it from being over humidified.


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## nikelodeon79 (Jan 16, 2012)

prototyp3 said:


> It's going to be noisy? :angryfire
> 
> Anyone wanna buy some large ISTA reactors?


I'm actually planning on ordering one from Drs. Foster Smith... as of right now I am getting free shipping there so if I purchased one from you I couldn't pay you the full $14.99 price plus shipping. If you want to sell one, PM me your price plus shipping.

Apparently, the bottom impeller is not supposed to spin, as it is there to cut down on the noise. The product designer said it will likely work even if none of the impellers spin, but I guess the top two are supposed to spin. 

As I'm not entirely sure how this whole pressurized CO2 is supposed to work, it's all Greek to me!


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

if u remove the impellers i could see it quieting it down a lot, however you would lose efficiency of the reactor. 

and yes they are removable...


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

Yeah ,the noise factor is real, but the cabinet that I have mine running in is a crappy petco stand that is pretty open ("cardboardish" backing, 3/8" gap between the door and frame, etc...) In a well built and sealed cabinet it would a far smaller issue. BTW, the bottom impeller does spin to some extent, at a far lower RPM than the top.


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## prototyp3 (Dec 5, 2007)

Thanks for all the input. I guess I'll just wait and see how it is. I had a ceramic diffuser that chirped and it drove me mad. Yet piping my CO2 into a powerhead provided an irregular but tolerable sound.

I build my cabinets so they're well enclosed all around. Hopefully that helps. I don't think removing the impellers is a bad idea either. The home made PVC diffusers achieve a nice level of diffusion without using them or bio balls.


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## jack25 (Sep 26, 2011)

If the reactor is outside, how about wrapping it with some cloth to lower the noise. I'm thinking the padding they install under carpets or some other thick cloth/fabric. I used to design steam piping system and when we install fiberglass insulation over the pipe, the noise from the flow in the pipe would drastically decrease.

Endgin28, back to the pressurized CO2, are you using a 2 stage regulator or one of them paintball set up with the ASA valve and a needle valve?


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## endgin28 (Feb 9, 2010)

I am using a single stage regulator to a 5lb tank. (I have three pressurized set ups right now, the one running on the mini M is a tandem manifold unit off of one regulator.) I would love to upgrade to 2 stages, but right now my fun money is spent as the tank dump is worse on single stages. I generally dislike the paintball setups because only the expensive ones (which begs the question of why not get a full sized model) have a solenoid and I dislike running them 24/7 and/or turning them off and on. If I had it to over again I would start off with a nice two stage regulator with a two or three port manifold. (probably one that Maknwar and Bettafish in the SNS pro sellers build) They are about the same price as what I spent back in the day and features wise are superior. If you are serious about the hobby, it is simply a smart investment. I would avoid the cheap AZOO model as I have had a solenoid fail with them (they are cheap, but built cheap too). Again, these are just my opinions and there are far better guru's here than I am.


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

endgin28 said:


> Noise wise, when it is running with C02 I would say it is very "hearable". When the gas is dissolved it is fairly quiet, but still makes some noise. If you need silence, I would suggest running a diffusor instead, I have mine in my bedroom as well and it is audible. I plan on adding some acoustic foam to the stand to reduce the sound.
> 
> As far as DIY CO2, I would be cautious. I would at least run a mechanical separation between it and the reactor, definitely NOT directly. The back pressure on reactors are fairly low so getting it into the system will not a problem in my mind, but a DIY blow out would be very messy without a separater. Also the rate of diffusion is very high with the system and controlling DIY is tricky- I would want to test the system without livestock present at first. Of course that would depend on the quantity and quality of the yeast mixture. Obviously check valves are in order.



Thanks for the info on the noise factor. Sounds like its A cerges reactor then for me. My system is pressurized Co2.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

Any updates. 
I just ordered a large from amazon for $15.
I got free shipping. 
According to one of the engineers the bottom impeller is not suppose to move. He claims it cuts down on the noise.


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## galabar (Oct 19, 2011)

They should work without the impellers. The in-tank reactors that I've build were just powerheads with soda bottles. Gravity and the force of the water rushing past was enough to mix things.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

I upgraded my filter from a HOB to an Eheim canister and added a large Ista reactor to replace an atomic in-tank diffuser. This thread was very helpful, thanks!

I tried using the included elbow with hose clamps but could not stop the leaking so I attached the hose directly to the reactor outflow. None of the hose connections in the entire system leaked, so there was no need for the clamps after all.

The noise is negligible - so quiet that I've checked several times if it were still running. The system is inside an open-backed cabinet so it would be a little louder in the open, but still a far cry from the flow noise of a HOB.

One surprise is that my diffuser was apparently much more efficient than I'd realized. I dialed the needle valve way back as suggested, but it's back to nearly the same flow as before and it's still not zeroed in.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

What would be the purpose of the 90° elbow? 
I'll probably end up trying to use it too.
Hopefully not with same results.
I also have my hose clamps ready.
According to my tracking # it will be arriving today.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Chaoslord said:


> What would be the purpose of the 90° elbow?


It's lower profile than attaching a hose directly. If you're not adding an inline heater after the reactor, that may not be an issue.


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## Schneeball (Dec 28, 2011)

I've got one on the way too, should be here Tuesday. As for the noise, shouldn't be any louder than my current HOB and noisy air pump I have on there currently, lol. I'm wondering if adding an in line diffuser to break up the bubbles before they hit the impeller would help. It kind of defeats the low price point but something to ponder. I'm going to put a diffuser under my FX5 canister inflow on a different tank because I figure the more things get chopped up the better there also.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

endgin28 said:


> It also comes with suction cups and has nubs should you like in tank mounting...


Used mine to mount the reactor on the canister filter.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

Schneeball said:


> I'm wondering if adding an in line diffuser to break up the bubbles before they hit the impeller would help. It kind of defeats the low price point but something to ponder.
> 
> 
> > Well I fell asleep and missed package. Will be getting it tomorrow.
> ...


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## Naekuh (Oct 19, 2011)

guys dont use the 90 attachment..

save yourself the headache...

as i said.. i leaked, i read many others who have leaked... and Rainer even said that he/she tried and failed with it leaking.

Just save yourself the headache of it leaking and toss out the 90 degree attachment.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Superglue might work but I have no idea whether it would be affected by high CO2 exposure. Better to skip the elbow altogether. I had to remove a shelf from my stand to accommodate the extra height of the hose but it still seemed a better choice than the glue.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

I have it set up an running. Sounds like my tanks leaking when the co2 is on. Other than this I think this works great. 
I didn't bother with the 90° elbows. I did use the hose clamps though.
Was unable to try the atomizer I didn't have enough hose to replace if I didn't work.


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## boxhead1990 (Aug 29, 2011)

would using weld on with the suplied 90's fix it im assuming its all plastic

or epoxy or silicon fix it would make the 90 permanant but wouldnt worry me


Sent from my iPhone


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

The reactor is hard plastic and the elbows are softer plastic. I can't say if there would be any negative effects from using those adhesive products in elevated levels of CO2.


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## boxhead1990 (Aug 29, 2011)

weld on 16 worked pretty good when a modafied an old skimmer so should work haha chhers


Sent from my iPhone


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Update: the outflow hose connection started leaking shortly after a WC. It was probably because the new water was warmer than usual; the filter hoses were more supple anyway. Luckily I still had the hose clamps nearby so it was quickly fixed.

These teething problems aside, I'm very happy with the reactor and recommend it. I never really minded the "champagne look" from my old diffuser but I love the new, clean look of my tank. Should have done this long ago.


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

I installed my Mix Max reactor last night after the atomizer I was using started blowing out these huge uncontrollable streams of big bubbles. My fish weren't happy, hanging at the surface. It must have happened later in the day because, the pressure gauge didn't move and my fish survived.

Anyway, installed the Reactor with the 5/8 inch adapters and had difficulty stopping a slow leak so, I pulled the hose off and put vasoline around the output and adapter and reclamped the hose. Problem solved. I didn't have to tighten the clamp so much either. People are asking about the noise. I would say it's a little less noisey than an HOB filter but since it's inside a stand, it's alot less noisey once you close the door. Yes, I have one of those cheapo black Petco stands too. I tried a Cerge Reactor for awhile but the sloshing noise drove me crazy, I quit using it. I think the Mix Max is much quieter than my cerge. I used a split impeller powerhead for awhile but, the bubbles hitting the impeller annoyed me as well. I did use a Rex style for about a year and it worked well, great CO2 dissolution. Later in the day, you could hear sloshing when the CO2 pocket formed. I stopped using it when I had difficulties repriming my XP2 one day because, of the back pressure created by the tall column of water on the filter output. I might run into this issue with the Mix Max as well. We'll see. 

Overall, the Mix Max is $15.00 well spent. I will evaluate for a week or two and if I still like it, I will buy a spare because I could see that it could break during rough handling during maintenance. Often people using diffusers will have spares to alternate cleaning so, spending an extra $15.00 for a standby isn't a bad idea in my estimation. Two of these is still cheaper than the better built Sera Reactor.

I will post more comments in a few weeks.


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## zherico (Mar 19, 2009)

hey yall

so for a 40 gallon breeder and 55 would you recommend the large or medium, and it would probably be best to just run an power head from the tank as the water source (opposed to inline from the canister filter)...and for those of you using a powerhead, which one are you using?


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

zherico said:


> hey yall
> 
> so for a 40 gallon breeder and 55 would you recommend the large or medium, and it would probably be best to just run an power head from the tank as the water source (opposed to inline from the canister filter)...and for those of you using a powerhead, which one are you using?


Go for the large. It's only a few dollars more and you'll be less likely to see bubbles. I'm running mine with a Rena XP2 147 gph with media and it's quite adequate. Maybe look for a powerhead in the 200 gph range?


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

I have it set up for a few days now. Of course I didnt use the elbows but did use the adapters because my canister filter uses 5/8" hose. Initially, I had difficulty stopping the hose connections from dripping, even with hose clamps. So, I redrained hoses and smeared vasoline on the adapters and where the hose connects to the reactor. This worked like a charm. I turned down the working pressure on the regulator from the 40 PSI needed for the atomizer to 10 PSI. I gradually adjusted the needle valve over time to where I got my drop checker to more yellow than green. I will watch my fish for a day or two before I adjust for slightly more CO2. Near the end of the day, I can hear sloshing from the CO2 hitting the impellers. It is less noisy than my Cerges reactor and about the same as my PVC inline reactor. After the solenoid shuts off the CO2 at 9:00 PM, it takes less than an hour for the sloshing to stop and for the CO2 pocket to be gone. I like that there isn't any bubbles in the aquarium except for the pearling from the plants. I do see a tiny bubble escape from the output occasionally but, hardly noticeable or distracting. The inline bubble counter bubbles in one continuous stream so forget about counting them. Probably a combination of the bubble counter bubbles being real small and the low line pressure. Since my 5 lb CO2 cylinder still registers 800 PSI, it will be awhile before I can determine if it uses more or less CO2 than an inline or in-tank atomizer. I didn't notice any reduction in water flow with the reactor in place. I suspect that there is but, it certainly isn't noticeable anyway. I use a Koralia to assist with flow so I'm not concerned. I will report back when I have noticed CO2 usage, whether it seems more or less than misting. I won't be doing any scientific measuring, too many variables and CO2 isn't that expensive for me to be too concerned. I will also see if my BBA increases or decreases, this is a bigger concern for me. Anyway, best $15.00 I've spent in awhile and looks like it will require less maintenance than an atomizer.


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## Joe.1 (Nov 23, 2009)

I bought the Ista reactor after reading all these good things about it. Man this thing is awesome. I had to turn down my co2 big time to keep it from going yellow. Got another one on the way for my bigger tank. It is a little loud, but after a few days, it dont even bother me.


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## grogan (Sep 13, 2011)

Aquaticfan said:


> So really Im curious how noisey this unit is. My canister Filter is pretty dead quiet. Im deciding weather to build a Rex or a Cerges reactor or get one of these for my 46 gallon Bow front. BUT I needs to be pretty quiet. The tank is in our bedroom. Thanks!!


Agreed they are definitely audible. However, why would you be running co2 at night? This thing only makes noise when its receiving CO2.


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

grogan said:


> Agreed they are definitely audible. However, why would you be running co2 at night? This thing only makes noise when its receiving CO2.


Im not running Co2 at night...... And bed rooms are used more then just at night.......  Last thing my wife wants to hear is the noise of a reactor.


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## Hyzer (Mar 9, 2010)

I've noticed that when I get the CO2 level at an appropriate range for my tank, I see nearly as many micro bubbles as when I had an Atomizer. This is what I was hoping to avoid... 

I'm running a 2217 on the large model so I know there isn't too much flow. The impeller inside the ISTA is breaking the bubbles up small enough to get caught in the current easily. I have yet to try taking the impeller out, however.

If you are expecting a no mist reactor, I wouldn't go this route. I don't enjoy the extra steps I need to take now to clean my filter either.

Edit: After reading my review again, I did want to add something positive. It is cheap and it does a good job of delivering CO2 to the tank.


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## grogan (Sep 13, 2011)

Aquaticfan said:


> Im not running Co2 at night...... And bed rooms are used more then just at night.......  Last thing my wife wants to hear is the noise of a reactor.


I see  Well regardless it really isn't that loud...


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

Hyzer said:


> I've noticed that when I get the CO2 level at an appropriate range for my tank, I see nearly as many micro bubbles as when I had an Atomizer. This is what I was hoping to avoid...
> 
> I'm running a 2217 on the large model so I know there isn't too much flow. The impeller inside the ISTA is breaking the bubbles up small enough to get caught in the current easily. I have yet to try taking the impeller out, however.
> 
> ...


This is one of the reasons I built a cerges reactor. It cost me about $25 to build a unit that's bigger then the biggest ISTA reactor. So it can handle plenty. Guess what. No flow issues. Easy to service if need be and no bubbles in my tank. Just fully dissolved co2 in the water..


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

grogan said:


> I see  Well regardless it really isn't that loud...


I decided to go with a cerges reactor. Very silent very effective and vheap to build.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Hyzer said:


> I've noticed that when I get the CO2 level at an appropriate range for my tank, I see nearly as many micro bubbles as when I had an Atomizer. This is what I was hoping to avoid...
> 
> I'm running a 2217 on the large model so I know there isn't too much flow. The impeller inside the ISTA is breaking the bubbles up small enough to get caught in the current easily. I have yet to try taking the impeller out, however.
> 
> If you are expecting a no mist reactor, I wouldn't go this route. I don't enjoy the extra steps I need to take now to clean my filter either.


Very strange. I'm running a large on a 2217 too and have zero CO2 bubbles - lots of o2 bubbles from pearling, but nothing from the reactor - at the maximum CO2 level the fish can tolerate.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

Hyzer said:


> I've noticed that when I get the CO2 level at an appropriate range for my tank, I see nearly as many micro bubbles as when I had an Atomizer. This is what I was hoping to avoid...
> 
> I'm running a 2217 on the large model so I know there isn't too much flow. The impeller inside the ISTA is breaking the bubbles up small enough to get caught in the current easily.


I'm having the same issue I'm not get the 7-up effect but I do see micro bubbles.
The tank is in my bedroom so I had to change the co2 to day only the noise was starting to bother me. Now its not bothering me at all. I do like this and I am going to fiddle with it to see if I can stop the micro bubble I am seeing.


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## Hyzer (Mar 9, 2010)

Rainer said:


> Very strange. I'm running a large on a 2217 too and have zero CO2 bubbles - lots of o2 bubbles from pearling, but nothing from the reactor - at the maximum CO2 level the fish can tolerate.


What is your working pressure?

What sort of lighting do you have on your tank? I can't raise my 2x T5HO fixture anymore because I have legs instead of my old pulley setup. Maybe my light intensity means I have a higher CO2 requirement?

I did have fewer bps when I first got the Ista because I thought it would be more efficient than my Atomizer. The tank did have fewer micro bubbles than it does now. After watching my plants and algae over the past several weeks, I've had to bump up my CO2.


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## CrazyCatPeekin (Aug 15, 2011)

I have been told on another thread that I could just run my CO2 line into my filter intake and let the filter dissolve the CO2. So, maybe this is a stupid question, but I am wondering, could you install the ISTA before the filter on the intake instead of the return? Would the filter then help to reduce any micro-bubbles getting through?

Even if it didn't help with the micro bubbles, is there a downside to positioning it here?

And, one final question, what are the extra steps needed to cleaning the filter with the ISTA on it?

Thanks!


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

CrazyCatPeekin said:


> I have been told on another thread that I could just run my CO2 line into my filter intake and let the filter dissolve the CO2. So, maybe this is a stupid question, but I am wondering, could you install the ISTA before the filter on the intake instead of the return? Would the filter then help to reduce any micro-bubbles getting through?
> 
> Even if it didn't help with the micro bubbles, is there a downside to positioning it here?
> 
> ...


I had to clean my filter and it wasn't any more of a hassle for me. 
The down side to putting the ista before your filter would be the extra maintenance I don't see junk getting pushed through the ista. 
I'm probably at a tenth of the micro bubbles I was at with the atomizer. 
I tried adjusting pressure bubble rate and I still get micro bubbles. So I'll live with what I'm seeing. 
Overall I'm very happy with it and if something happends to it I will get another one.


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## CrazyCatPeekin (Aug 15, 2011)

Chaoslord said:


> The down side to putting the ista before your filter would be the extra maintenance I don't see junk getting pushed through the ista.


Well duh...sometimes the obvious escapes me! :redface: I suppose I should have thought of that.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Hyzer said:


> What is your working pressure?
> 
> What sort of lighting do you have on your tank? I can't raise my 2x T5HO fixture anymore because I have legs instead of my old pulley setup. Maybe my light intensity means I have a higher CO2 requirement?
> 
> I did have fewer bps when I first got the Ista because I thought it would be more efficient than my Atomizer. The tank did have fewer micro bubbles than it does now. After watching my plants and algae over the past several weeks, I've had to bump up my CO2.


CO2 is around 32 psi and I have a 2x T5HO fixture mounted on legs on the top of the tank. 

I'm battling hair algae and a small amount of BBA after gassing several fish in an obscured part of the tank and I've seen what may be some crinkling of high growth hygro leaves, despite dosing EI. I've seen outbreaks before after losing fish and the leaf problem may relate to a Ca/Mg deficiency which I don't currently dose because of 8 dGH tapwater. Regardless I can't boost CO2 further without adding an airstone while the lights are on.


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## Hyzer (Mar 9, 2010)

Rainer said:


> CO2 is around 32 psi and I have a 2x T5HO fixture mounted on legs on the top of the tank.


Hmm, maybe this thing likes a higher working pressure. Mine is only at 10-12 psi. The bubbles would take longer to dissolve at a higher working pressure (I think), which maybe have something to do with them staying in the reactor longer. If more experienced folks have any suggestions, that would be awesome.



Rainer said:


> I'm battling hair algae and a small amount of BBA after gassing several fish in an obscured part of the tank and I've seen what may be some crinkling of high growth hygro leaves, despite dosing EI. I've seen outbreaks before after losing fish and the leaf problem may relate to a Ca/Mg deficiency which I don't currently dose because of 8 dGH tapwater. Regardless I can't boost CO2 further without adding an airstone while the lights are on.


Algae is typically a sign of inadequate CO2 for the light intensity, especially if you are dosing any nutrients and doing water changes. In my experience, plants that crinkle and curl up don't have enough CO2 or don't like the hardness of your water. Perhaps you are not at the optimal level yet? Could this be why you aren't seeing microbubbles?


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

When I dialed back the CO2 only slightly after losing half my stock, the drop checker went from yellowish to light green. The crinkled hygro is directly in the lily pipe outflow so I've no idea what else I could do.

I've noticed similar outbreaks after unobserved stock losses due to CO2 but I'm not sure why given that we intentionally overdose fertilizers when using EI. 

Thinking about it more, it's possible that the tank is getting too much ambient light after relocating it. It's 10'+ from north facing windows so it seems unlikely however.

This is by far the worst algae outbreak I've seen, so I'm preparing for my first 72 hour blackout.


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

Sounds like you could also have circulation issue that keeps the co2 from being dispersed in the areas it needs to be. What's your photo period? What schedule/amount of ferts for EI ate you dosing? As mentioned before most hair and BBA are related to low co2.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

I have an eight hour photo period on a 1-6-1 schedule (6hrs = high light) which worked very well with the old 250 gph HOB. 

The tank is a standard 29g with the lily pipe next to and above the filter inflow in a back corner, running across the back of the tank. The drop checker is just forward of the inflow pipe (and behind the direction of the outflow), so it should be optimally located for reading the minimum amount of CO2 in the tank. 

EI dosing is the standard amount for that tank size, except that no GH Booster is used given the 8 dGH tapwater. That doesn't rule out a Mg deficiency, I suppose.

Am I missing something?


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

If you have even dispersion you should have no minimum amount area. How low below the water line is your drop checker. And remember drop checkers aren't the most accurate ways to show how much co2 is in the water


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

The DC is approximately 3" above the substrate. Owing to the hardscape, there may be areas of lesser diffusion, but they are inaccessible to a DC and don't seem to be disproportionately affected by the algae.

The DC may not be that accurate but remember the feedback from the livestock.


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## Aquaticfan (Oct 30, 2011)

That's way to low. Drop checker should be 3 inches below the top if the tank water line. But seems as though your thought is relying on the drop checker to tell you. Forget that and use the fish and plants to tell you. If your having hair or BBA issues you have something out of balance between nutrients, co2 and light.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Aquaticfan said:


> That's way to low. Drop checker should be 3 inches below the top if the tank water line. But seems as though your thought is relying on the drop checker to tell you. Forget that and use the fish and plants to tell you. If your having hair or BBA issues you have something out of balance between nutrients, co2 and light.


Why not lower? The original location is the farthest point from the inflow, both horizontally and vertically, plus it's very close to the flame moss which has been infested with hair algae. If the microbubbles are coming out of solution, they will rise to the surface, so a lower positioned DC would read the minimum CO2 concentration, no? 

Again, the DC and the fish/shrimp agree that the tank has high CO2 levels.


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## Lurch98 (Oct 7, 2011)

So, adding to the longer term use feedback, i just broke my Ista. I was attempting to remove the CO2 line from the inlet nub so I could redo the plumbing on my canister filter, and it snapped right off. Not sure if the extended CO2 exposure made it extra brittle, but be careful with it if you move it or try to detach the line.

Good thing I have a water filter already on the way to play with a Cerges build. Looks like I actually need it now.


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## Chaoslord (Feb 12, 2011)

Thanks that's good to know I was going to replace my co2 line next month. Instead of pulling it off I'll slice it. 
I'm also ordering another to have on stanby incase something happens to this one.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Moved the filter outflow from the back wall to near the front and now I see some CO2 microbubbles. Nothing like the atomizer/HOB days but thought I'd mention it.


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## Mr.Desert_scape (Mar 6, 2012)

So this thing does fit 5/8" tubing? I was looking into one but it only showed a 1/2" and 3/4" adapter on the description.


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

Mr.Desert_scape said:


> So this thing does fit 5/8" tubing? I was looking into one but it only showed a 1/2" and 3/4" adapter on the description.


The adapter is just a soft plastic sleeve so I have it working with 5/8" tubing and a metal hose clamp.


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

My filter output was in the left rear corner pointed at the right rear corner. I didnt notice any mist before but, I do now since I have it aimed at the left front. It's not nearly as much as an atomizer but still noticeable. I still like it considering effectiveness and price. If the mist bugs me, I'll aim it at the right rear corner again. The main reason I changed it in the first place was to allow the front plants to get first dibbs on CO2 before the stems in the rear got it. So far, I don't see it using more or less CO2 to get the same ppm in the water. It looks like my 5 lb cylinder will last a little more than 3 months just as before with the atomizer. I had to lower working psi from 40 for the atomizer to 10 psi for the ista reactor. This is just to make the fabco needle valve easier to adjust with the less restriction in the CO2 line.


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## tetra73 (Aug 2, 2011)

For the mist coming out from the reactor, you can also put a sponge over the outlet. This will filter out the bubbles and the water. This would only work if you aren't connecting the water outlet to a spray bar.


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## CorallineAlgae (Apr 8, 2012)

I just ordered an Ista Max Mix reactor today. It'll replace a Red Sea Co2 Reactor 500 that I've used for years but just isn't up to the task. Besides, it takes room in my little 20g and I'm tired of hiding it. I don't recommend the Red Sea reactor. I hope the Ista works out. Building a DIY would be a piece of cake but it's not an option at the moment and for $15 bucks it's worth a shot. If it works out I'll make an update. If it's a disaster I'll post that, too.


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## Mr.Desert_scape (Mar 6, 2012)

SO far I like mine. :icon_smil I was using a powerhead to disperse the co2 before and wanted to lessen the equipment inside the tank. I've had mine on for about a week and with all the info on this thread I was able to set mine up without a hitch and am loving it so far. As far as the noise goes I don't think it is any louder than a HOB filter.

So for reference definitely use the vaseline to attach the 5/8" hose adapters. Not only does it make them easier to slide on all the way, it helps you to see which parts still need to be sealed because of the see through plastic and the use of hose clamps creates a good seal. 

Also if your set up is like mine it is almost impossible to turn this thing upside down to get all the bubbles out so the best thing to do it to run a tube from the reactor into a bucket to bleed the air out.


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

Mr.Desert_scape said:


> SO far I like mine. :icon_smil I was using a powerhead to disperse the co2 before and wanted to lessen the equipment inside the tank. I've had mine on for about a week and with all the info on this thread I was able to set mine up without a hitch and am loving it so far. As far as the noise goes I don't think it is any louder than a HOB filter.
> 
> So for reference definitely use the vaseline to attach the 5/8" hose adapters. Not only does it make them easier to slide on all the way, it helps you to see which parts still need to be sealed because of the see through plastic and the use of hose clamps creates a good seal.
> 
> Also if your set up is like mine it is almost impossible to turn this thing upside down to get all the bubbles out so the best thing to do it to run a tube from the reactor into a bucket to bleed the air out.


I had to add a little more hose length so I could turn it upside down to bleed the air bubble out. Fortunately, it's only after filter maintenance that you have to worry about that anyway. I would like to find a valve to incorporate into the co2 line to bleed out the air when necessary. Since I only need to set the working pressure to 10 PSI, it should be possible to find one that is sufficiently air tight.


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## Robert H (Apr 3, 2003)

My only gripe with the ISTA, mix max is that it is made of very thin plastic that can crack or break easily, and the propellar inside does not always work properly


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## hbosman (Oct 5, 2006)

Robert H said:


> My only gripe with the ISTA, mix max is that it is made of very thin plastic that can crack or break easily, and the propellar inside does not always work properly


That is true. But at $15.00, I will buy a spare. I didn't want to buy a spare until I decided I liked the method. There is a similar more expensive version of it from Sera but, it's more like $40.00. I read that some people found the Sera noisy. If that's the case, I'd rather buy several Istas. If it's dirty and needs cleaning and I happen to break it, I'll just install a new clean Ista. I think of it like having extra ceramic diffusers which I have broken just getting the tubing off.


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## Rainer (Jan 30, 2011)

Not sure if this is mentioned above but it's very easy to burp the reactor after canister filter maintenance by inverting it and briefly unscrewing but not removing the end cap. Keep a close eye on it as the water level rises. 

A one-way valve that can be used as a disconnect on the CO2 supply line is a good idea for ease of maintenance.


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## aqua-botanicae (Jun 4, 2013)

Mr.Desert_scape said:


> SO far I like mine. :icon_smil I was using a powerhead to disperse the co2 before and wanted to lessen the equipment inside the tank. I've had mine on for about a week and with all the info on this thread I was able to set mine up without a hitch and am loving it so far. As far as the noise goes I don't think it is any louder than a HOB filter..


Other than aesthetic issues, have you had any problems in terms of diffusion or noise? Do you have any pictures of the powerhead and reactor in your tank? (I am considering this option at the moment).


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## Chronados (Jan 28, 2013)

My experience with this product:

1) The impellers make a bit of a clicking noise as water flow spins them
2) There are no barbs on the ends of the input/output. Over time, my Eheim tubing hardened around the smooth surface and was very easy to accidentally knock off until I put hose clamps on
3) Dissolution is very good. I never saw any bubbles leaving the unit.
4) Does not seem to decrease flow significantly with an 2213
5) Cleaning the inside of the thing is near impossible since the slotted piece by the screw cap at the base is very hard to remove.


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## angelsword (May 16, 2009)

Sorry, I know this is an ancient thread. I thought it might be good to keep info in one place...

I have two of these and they're working perfectly! The problem is cleaning them. The end with the input/output is full of gunk and none of my brushes can knock it lose. I've soaked and soaked and tried lots of different brushes with no luck. After countless Google searches I've seen people mention taking them apart but I can't find an image of one disassembled. They say the center pulls out but I don't see how. 

Does this part really pull out? There's a lip around the inside on the open end and the fan shaped piece at the opening has a notch that's fitted over the lip. If I pull it it's going to come out in cracked pieces!

Thanks in advance for any info!


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