# Nano regulator build for pressurized CO2 - (shown on a Fluval Edge)



## tuonor

*Materials:*
I was able to get the bulk of the parts from 2 sources: Midwest Supplies and Clippard. One annoyance about Clippard is they charge you a $10 “handling” fee so it may make sense to go through a local distributor if there is one nearby. Also, if you need a power supply for the solenoid and / or connectors you may also have to make a trip to Radio Shack (I had some stuff lying around that I could scavenge).











*Parts list:*

Regulator: Leland NR24. Source: Midwest Supplies (Williams Brewing is a bit cheaper but since I live in CA I get hit with sales tax)
Solenoid: Clippard Mouse. Source: Clippard, part no EV-2-6. Select the "normally closed", "2-way valve", and "buna seals" options
1/8 NPT male to 10-32 female adapter. Source: Clippard, part no 2CPF
10-32 male to 10-32 male extension. Source: Clippard, part no. 11999-PKG
10-32 male to 1/8” hose barb. Source: Clippard, part no CT4-pkg
ADA System 74 Cap Stand. Source: ADG Shop or AFA
6-9V transformer / wall wart. Source: I pulled one off an old cordless telephone. Note the solenoid referenced above can be configured with a 6V, 12V or 24V transformer so see what you have in your garage before you order. The Clippard site shows the voltage ranges that will work with each configuration of the mouse.
Quick disconnect plug for solenoid wiring. Source: I used some old RC car power connectors (Dean’s plugs) I had lying around
*Optional parts:*

Clippard needle valve. Source: Clippard, part no. MNV-4K
Clippard check valve. Source: Clippard, part no. MCV-1
*Other:*

Wrenches (I used sockets but one could probably get by with a small adjustable wrench)
Soldering iron / solder / heat shrink
Joint compound


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## tuonor

*Assembly:*
Putting this together is relatively straightforward, but I’d break it into two steps: screwing together the fittings and wiring the solenoid. 










Regulator parts assemble per the picture above. I used Oatey “Great White Pipe Joint Compound with PTFE” from Home Depot to seal the connections (an alternative is RectorSeal “T Plus 2”) and a range of English sockets was helpful in getting the pieces tightly screwed together. Use the pipe dope sparingly (see detail pic below) – you don’t want it getting inside the fittings.










I found it easiest to start with the regulator and the 1/8 NPT to 10-32 adapter. This way, you have something weighty and meaty to grasp while tightening all these tiny fittings. Note there may already be a fitting on the regulator that needs to be removed first. Also note that is not my hand in the picture below, my kid was "helping" out.










One last note is make sure you have the in/out markings on the solenoid oriented correctly. The “in” should be closest to the regulator.

Worth mentioning that I don’t know of any standards for torquing these fittings, so I went hand tight using the _smallest _wrench I had. Regardless, you can test for leaks by putting a drop of dishwashing soap in a jar of water and “painting” this solution on the connections between the fittings with a brush. Do this while the regulator valve is open but the solenoid is closed. If there is bubbling at any joint you have a leak and you should disassemble / reassemble with more pipe dope and / or tighter torquing on the fittings.


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## tuonor

Now, time to wire the solenoid. You can choose as I did to add a quick disconnect plug or just splice the 2 solenoid leads to the wall wart. There is no polarity to the solenoid so you can wire either lead to the + of the wall wart.










Caveats: in retrospect the Clippard needle valve is not the best solution for a Nano application as it doesn’t offer very fine control which becomes more critical when trying to achieve a very low bubble per minute count. This is mentioned by Rex Grigg at his site but I figured I’d buy the valve anyway since I was already getting a bunch of stuff from Clippard. I’ll probably insert a Swagelok that I bought a while back on the S&S downstream from the assembled regulator but were I to do it again, I’d just attach the 10-32 male to 1/8” hose barb fitting to the female outlet on the solenoid, then run tubing to a better needle valve. A check valve can be placed in-line between the needle valve and the bubble counter.

*Finished product (note the actual assembled height is smaller, the CO2 cart was not screwed in all the way in this pic):*










Hope this is useful to folks…I'll post another section of how to fit this into the Fluval Edge shortly.


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## TLE041

Great thread. I'm following this with great interest since I'm possibly doing something similar soon. Thanks for posting this.

I'd love to see the unit fitted in the Edge.


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## TeaQue

Thats awesome! Its too bad you couldn't make something like this to work with a paintball tank. They're so cheap to buy and cheap to fill!


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## tuonor

TeaQue said:


> Thats awesome! Its too bad you couldn't make something like this to work with a paintball tank. They're so cheap to buy and cheap to fill!


Thanks! The 5/8-18 threading on the regulator is actually the same threading used on standard paintball equipment but I don't have a cannister to test whether it'd fit. Obviously a paintball setup wouldn't fit in the back housing of the Edge which was the reason I went down this road (beyond asthetics, having this stuff hidden and inaccessible is a plus when you have kids lurking).

I like to think there is an option to reuse this in a bigger setup down the road if it comes to that, but again don't have access to a cannister to confirm it.


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## deondrec

How much was the Leland regulator?


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## tuonor

deondrec said:


> How much was the Leland regulator?


IIRC its $130 at Williams Brewing and a bit more at Midwest (but Cali residents would avoid sales tax).


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## tuonor

*Part II: Fitting the Nano CO2 setup into the Fluval Edge*

I originally thought I would need to get a new HOB filter for the Edge because of clearance issues. The pic below shows the HOB filter for the Edge, hung in its stock placement, but without the plastic column that conceals the filter. You can see that the total height of the CO2 tank + regulator is just taller than the space available under the AC20 HOB filter.










However, playing around with the space I figured out a way to make it work.


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## tuonor

The CO2 setup will just fit under the right edge of the HOB filter if you place it all the way against the right wall in the back housing of the Edge and place the HOB filter as far to the left as it will slide. However, you have to cut a notch in the cylinder stand to get the setup to fully snug up against the side wall because of a stiffening rib in the base. This probably sounds pretty confusing but hopefully the pics below make it clearer.

This picture shows where in the base of the CO2 cylinder should sit (what you're looking at is the rear section of the plinth that the tank sits on from above the tank). Note there is a notch you need to cut in the plastic cylinder base, highlighted by the arrow. Also note that the cylinder base has 2 flat sides and you want one of those sides to go against the wall.










Detail pic of the notch. The plastic is really soft and cuts easily with an Exacto type knife. 










This is what the final positioning looks from the top.


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## tuonor

Hope this was helpful for others on the forum. 

Next up...injecting CO2 into the AC20 HOB filter.


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## Fat Guy

cool


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## dkbmxr18

this is awesome, good job!

I really like my 1L Jello co2 though


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## deondrec

dkbmxr18 said:


> I really like my 1L Jello co2 though


for $130 me to:icon_smil


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## PinoyBoy

I think this thread needs a bit of bumpage.

BTW is there other places where you can get a regulator like that? But cheaper?


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## tuonor

PinoyBoy said:


> I think this thread needs a bit of bumpage.
> 
> BTW is there other places where you can get a regulator like that? But cheaper?


Y, unfort not that I could find. I had contacted Leland directly about their pricing but it was actually more expensive than buying from one of the brewing guys.

I did however end up with some extra fittings (the clippard 2CPF, 11999-PKG and CT4-PKG) that I'd be willing to send as sets to people who are trying to build the same regulator (no charge but you pay shipping). While its not much, it would allow you to put a hose barb on the regulator without buying anything from Clippard.


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## shoggoth43

*total cost?*

So... What was the total cost on that CO2? Did you ever get a chance to show the injection system into the HOB filter? - S


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## tuonor

shoggoth43 said:


> So... What was the total cost on that CO2? Did you ever get a chance to show the injection system into the HOB filter? - S


For the basic rig, figure $130 for the regulator, $8 for the plastic ADA stand, $8.50 for the CO2 cart and a buck of Clippard parts. While the upfront cost is probably $30 more than the ADA or Hydor basic systems, you save meaningfully on each cartridge (say $6-10) and the breakeven point is 3-9 mos depending on how long the cartridges last. Also worth noting that the Leland regulator is potentially upgradable if you outgrow your nano setup (consider the similarities between the Leland and this insanely priced ADA "speed regulator")

The solenoid costs $23. It's pretty neat -- tiny (< 1" in diameter), generates no real heat and consumes 1/10th of the power of a common 110VAC solenoid I looked at. And its cheaper than the $99 ADA solenoid or $30ish 120VAC one that some use (I think this one is also a Clippard just a different kind). 

The Clippard needle valve is $11 and the check valve is $5. While there are (much) better needle valves this one is pretty cheap and the Clippard stuff screws right on to the solenoid. Of course, while I say that I did end up getting a Swagelok valve because the Clippard doesn't offer sufficiently fine control. You can get it to run at 1-3bps but differentiating between 1bps vs. 1.5bps is an exercise in patience that I don't have.

On the CO2 injection, I'll try to post a few pics soon, I've been distracted by what seems to be fishless cycling purgatory...21 days in and my nitrites have been flat at 1ppm for the last 10 days. Annoying.


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## S&KGray

tuonor said:


> Of course, while I say that I did end up getting a Swagelok valve because the Clippard doesn't offer sufficiently fine control. You can get it to run at 1-3bps but differentiating between 1bps vs. 1.5bps is an exercise in patience that I don't have.
> 
> On the CO2 injection, I'll try to post a few pics soon, I've been distracted by what seems to be fishless cycling purgatory...21 days in and my nitrites have been flat at 1ppm for the last 10 days. Annoying.


Hope that Swagelok valve is doing what you need it to! :thumbsup: And can't wait to see pics of your complete nano pressurized setup.


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## tuonor

S&KGray said:


> Hope that Swagelok valve is doing what you need it to! :thumbsup: And can't wait to see pics of your complete nano pressurized setup.


The Swagelok you sent me works great, thanks again. Allows me to run relatively consistent bubble counts in about ~10bpm steps. 

And here is the injection "half" of the system:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/diy/104645-mini-co2-reactor-aquaclear-hob-filter.html

A small update is pending as I'm running it with an ADA "ball glass" diffuser now.


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## sammyman

*Here is your list with links (this will help me find the parts and order):

Parts list:*

Regulator: Leland NR24. Source: Midwest Supplies (Williams Brewing is a bit cheaper but since I live in CA I get hit with sales tax)
Solenoid: Clippard Mouse. Source: Clippard, part no EV-2-6. Select the "normally closed", "2-way valve", and "buna seals" options.
1/8 NPT male to 10-32 female adapter. Source: Clippard, part no 2CPF
10-32 male to 10-32 male extension. Source: Clippard, part no. 11999-PKG
10-32 male to 1/8” hose barb. Source: Clippard, part no CT4-pkg
ADA System 74 Cap Stand. Source: ADG Shop or AFA
6-9V transformer / wall wart. Source: I pulled one off an old cordless telephone. Note the solenoid referenced above can be configured with a 6V, 12V or 24V transformer so see what you have in your garage before you order. The Clippard site shows the voltage ranges that will work with each configuration of the mouse.
Quick disconnect plug for solenoid wiring. Source: I used some old RC car power connectors (Dean’s plugs) I had lying around
*Optional parts:*

Clippard needle valve. Source: Clippard, part no. MNV-4K
Clippard check valve. Source: Clippard, part no. MCV-1
*Other:*

Wrenches (I used sockets but one could probably get by with a small adjustable wrench)
Soldering iron / solder / heat shrink
Joint compound


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## sammyman

Is the Clippard, part no really EV-2-6-H-V and NOT EV-2-6? I couldn't find the "buna seals" options, only the Viton seals. Thanks!


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## Rodan

Clippard MAR-1P-3 low pressure (0 to 30 psi) regulator









Here's an alternative assembly using the above Clippard part. Rex sometimes added the Clippard MAR-1P-3 low pressure (0 to 30 psi) regulator between the solenoid and the Clippard needle valve so that there would be better flow control. It's list price is $13.43. You could use it if you mounted it a little differently. 

It would be mounted where you have the 2CPF male 1/8" NPT x #10-32 adapter. This low pressure regulator has 1/8" male NPT on one end and female #10-32 on the side. The Leland has female 1/8" NPT and the solenoid has female #10-32 threads. This would fit with no adapter. You would still need the 11999-PKG #10-32 male extension to connect it to the solenoid. The needle valve would be attached to the other end of the solenoid like you have there in your picture. The low pressure regulator and the solenoid would be in a horizontal position. What do you think about this alternative?

This is the order of assembly: Leland regulator -> Clippard low pressure regulator -> #10-32 male extension -> solenoid -> needle valve -> check valve.



tuonor said:


>


Rex even tells how to set the low pressure regulator.

*How to use a L.P.R. There has been some confusion over how the LPR works. So here's the nitty-gritty on using the LPR. These are 30 psi regulators. And they have right around 11 turns from open to closed. So that makes each turn equal to about 2.7 psi. The main thing to keep in mind is that if your main regulator's working pressure is higher than the setting of the LPR then the excess pressure will vent from that small hole. So, set your main regulator working pressure to about 10-12 psi. Open the LPR up about 7-8 turns. Now adjust the flow rate with your needle valve as close as you can. You can now use the LPR to fine tune the bubble rate. That's pretty much how it works.
http://www.bestaquariumregulator.com/CO2.html#lprwork


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## sammyman

How did you hook up the swagelok valve to this setup?


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## tuonor

sammyman said:


> How did you hook up the swagelok valve to this setup?


It just hooked up in-line with the tubing, its not bolted to the solenoid.


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## ewynn

How's the solenoid holding up so far? I'm very interested in the mouse but there isn't enough threads or posts about it in planted tank use. I'm wondering if it'll work on a bigger system (10lbs) with a Cornelius regulator. I understand that the 10-32 can't handle that much weight so I'm planning to arrange them vertically than horizontally


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## tuonor

ewynn said:


> How's the solenoid holding up so far? I'm very interested in the mouse but there isn't enough threads or posts about it in planted tank use. I'm wondering if it'll work on a bigger system (10lbs) with a Cornelius regulator. I understand that the 10-32 can't handle that much weight so I'm planning to arrange them vertically than horizontally


So far so good, but I'm only 2 months in so any reliability comment should be taken with a grain (or many grains really) of salt.

I'm guessing most of the solenoids you see are overkill since our working pressures are only 10-20psi and the cycle duration for most is once per day (the Clippard mouse is rated to 105psi and a billion cycles of operation).


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## S&KGray

tuonor said:


> It just hooked up in-line with the tubing, its not bolted to the solenoid.


Did you use Swagelok tubing inserts to connect the tubing to the Swagelok valve? If not, how did you connect it up?

Example here


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## tuonor

S&KGray said:


> Did you use Swagelok tubing inserts to connect the tubing to the Swagelok valve? If not, how did you connect it up?
> 
> Example here


I can't view the pics. But y, if you have a 1/4" swagelok (say the SS-SS4A like I bought from you) you need tube fitting adapters such as a SS-2-HC-A-401 (stainless) or B-2-HC-A-401 (brass) to attach it directly to 3mm tubing. You can buy stuff directly from Swaglok they just stuff you with a crazy handling charge to ship. Fortunately they're (somewhat) local for me.

I've seen people directly connect tubing to the 1/8" swageloks (like a SS-SS2) without barbs, but haven't done it myself. There are also tube fitting adapters for those size needle valves. I do know you cannot attach 3mm tubing directly to the 1/4" fittings.

Turns out if you want to attach a swagelok valve to a solenoid or regulator you can get a B-4-TA-7-2 adapter which takes you from the 1/4" swagelok tube fitting to a standard 1/8" NPT female.


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## S&KGray

tuonor said:


> I can't view the pics.


Here are the pics:


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## yikesjason

Has anyone else built one of these systems? I picked up some of the Leland regulators at a great price and plan on building one of these for myself. 

Is there any end of tank dump with these? 
Has anyone found an adapter to use these with a paintball tank? 
The shipping for the ADA cup stand was pretty steep. Has anyone found any alternatives?


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## tuonor

yikesjason said:


> Is there any end of tank dump with these?


I have gone through 2 tanks so far, ran them empty and no fauna died (6 gallon tank w/ CPDs, CRS and b. brigittae). So if there is a dump, its not enough to elevate the CO2 to scary levels



yikesjason said:


> Has anyone found an adapter to use these with a paintball tank?


Here's one: http://airgraver.com/images/co2-bottles.jpg. I've heard this guy won't sell parts to people who don't own an airgraver, but worth a shot (perhaps he can just tell you what threading is on each end of the adapter he sells)



yikesjason said:


> The shipping for the ADA cup stand was pretty steep. Has anyone found any alternatives?


Haven't found any. Hole saw and a small block of wood would work (that's what I was going to do before I determined the ADA stand would fit.


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## yikesjason

I talked to Jeff and he offered free shipping on the stand cups, so that makes it a lot easier. 

I read about the airgraver guy not selling to non-customers before, but I didn't see where that was posted on the web page anymore. I used to work at a plastics machine shop and could have turned an adapter there. Maybe I should stop by and visit my old boss. 

Has anyone tried the 88g canisters that are 4 for $6? With shipping they come out to $4 each, a pretty good deal. Link They are taller, so it wouldn't work for people trying to fit them in the edge housing, but it would still fit in the cup stand.


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## tuonor

yikesjason said:


> I talked to Jeff and he offered free shipping on the stand cups, so that makes it a lot easier.
> 
> I read about the airgraver guy not selling to non-customers before, but I didn't see where that was posted on the web page anymore. I used to work at a plastics machine shop and could have turned an adapter there. Maybe I should stop by and visit my old boss.
> 
> Has anyone tried the 88g canisters that are 4 for $6? With shipping they come out to $4 each, a pretty good deal. Link They are taller, so it wouldn't work for people trying to fit them in the edge housing, but it would still fit in the cup stand.


Found this thread on a beer forum about adapting this regulator to a paintball canister...if you have the capacity to do some simple machining, check out this diagram.

On the 88g carts I had considered that originally (before I realized it wouldn't fit in the back compartment of the Edge)...but Williams Brewing advises against these carts. I don't know if they are just trying to force you to buy the razor blades from them, but they claim the regulator will clog. Read more here.


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## JimmyYahoo

Nice, clean, compact.


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## yikesjason

tuonor said:


> Found this thread on a beer forum about adapting this regulator to a paintball canister...if you have the capacity to do some simple machining, check out this diagram.
> 
> On the 88g carts I had considered that originally (before I realized it wouldn't fit in the back compartment of the Edge)...but Williams Brewing advises against these carts. I don't know if they are just trying to force you to buy the razor blades from them, but they claim the regulator will clog. Read more here.



I did see that beer thread. I used to work at a machine shop where I could have turned that piece. 

I had not seen that warning on the 88g cylinders. I already ordered 4 of the 88g, so I will go ahead and use them anyways. Airgraver recommends the 88g. I don't know, I will try it and see.


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## yikesjason

I build mine, I really like having the Fabco needle valve. I have no problem adjusting the bubble count as low as I could want. The 88g cartridge was tricky to attach. 

This is the one I am using, and you can see that the threads don't come all the way to the end. The section without threads is too long to get the threads started into the Leland without piercing the cartridge. 









The threads on the Leland are removable. So what I did was partially unscrewed the threads from the regulator, then I had enough clearance to start the cartridge threading into the socket. I lost some co2 before I got it all tight, but that was because I started to panic when I heard it leaking instead of hurrying to finish tightening.


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## knm<><

That's awesome, nice work. Got a picture of it in the edge?

EDIT: Nevermind, saw it reading back through. That's why you always start from the beginning.


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## sammyman

tuonor said:


> I can't view the pics. But y, if you have a 1/4" swagelok (say the SS-SS4A like I bought from you) you need tube fitting adapters such as a SS-2-HC-A-401 (stainless) or B-2-HC-A-401 (brass) to attach it directly to 3mm tubing. You can buy stuff directly from Swaglok they just stuff you with a crazy handling charge to ship. Fortunately they're (somewhat) local for me.
> 
> I've seen people directly connect tubing to the 1/8" swageloks (like a SS-SS2) without barbs, but haven't done it myself. There are also tube fitting adapters for those size needle valves. I do know you cannot attach 3mm tubing directly to the 1/4" fittings.
> 
> Turns out if you want to attach a swagelok valve to a solenoid or regulator you can get a B-4-TA-7-2 adapter which takes you from the 1/4" swagelok tube fitting to a standard 1/8" NPT female.


So you said you just hooked up the swagelok directly to the tubing a few posts before, and here it looks like you can also use an adapter? How do you have everything setup? I have all the parts from your first setup, and the swagelok, but still am scratching my head as the best way to hook everything up.

Just a quick note. I was using the grey ADA tubing to try and hook up the Swagelok, and the tube is too small from what I can see. I guess that is what you mean by "you cannot attach 3mm tubing directly to the 1/4" fittings."


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## sammyman

I wound up getting two barbs from swagelok locally. They charged me $10 a barb! Hopefully it is all worth it.


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## sammyman

Just a quick update. The SS-2-HC-A-401 don't seem to work with this CO2 setup. I was running less than 5psi and it was leaking at the barbs. Is there some trick to keep this from leaking?


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## S&KGray

sammyman said:


> Just a quick update. The SS-2-HC-A-401 don't seem to work with this CO2 setup. I was running less than 5psi and it was leaking at the barbs. Is there some trick to keep this from leaking?


Maybe you could use metal hose clamps or plastic ties.


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## OverStocked

Is it leaking from the threads that hold the barbs in? You need to use pipe compound or teflon tape on the threads to seal it. If leaking over the tube, then a small pipe clamp.


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## sammyman

over_stocked said:


> Is it leaking from the threads that hold the barbs in? You need to use pipe compound or teflon tape on the threads to seal it. If leaking over the tube, then a small pipe clamp.


I tried zip ties with no luck. Picked up the smallest hose clamp from Home Depot, but it looks too big. Where can you get 1/8" hose clamps?


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## Damian

Has anyone found an adapter for this reg to run on a paintball canister?


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## yikesjason

There is one here for $38. I have heard that in the past this guy wouldn't sell this part to people who had not bought his other products. 
http://airgraver.com/Hand_Engraving_Tools_Overview.htm#REGULATORS FOR PALMCONTROLS

Some people on some of the beer forums have made their own either by machining it out of raw stock, or jerry rigging one with paintball gun parts.


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## Damian

hmmm. I saw that site. Not sure though. I wanted to consider something for the future if I ever do decide to beef up from a cartridge.


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## Green Leaf Aquariums

I could definitely make these adapters if folks are interested. Seems pretty easy..


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## Damian

Green Leaf Aquariums said:


> I could definitely make these adapters if folks are interested. Seems pretty easy..


Sounds like a plan.


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## jeffvmd

I finally installed the CO2 set up since I got the fabco FN32 needle valve and now it works fine.:smile:









I do have extra clippard fittings CT4 PKG and 2CPF from that tuonor sent in free. Thanks again.roud:
Oh I also have an extra fabco fn32 needle valve. 
PM me if anyone needs them.


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## Morchaiel

Man, I really love this setup.. I can't find any stores that sell Co2 regulators or solenoids that small here in the Netherlands, so far.. I did find a teeny tiny nano Co2 regulator, for about 30 bucks, makes me wonder if it's any good.. Plus, I think it only has the option to just hook it straight up to some hose. If I'd stick a solenoid valve in there' it'll probably leak . 

In any case, brilliant setup. I'm gonna keep looking to see if I can find the proper equipment here. Problem is, I don't have a lot of DIY experience, so I'm not even sure where to look :redface:. 

One question though, where does the Co2 get into the tank? 

Thanks for the inspiration though, I probably wouldn't even have thought of making a Co2 system. I'd probably just would have bought like, a Dennerle nano Co2 and place it behind the tank :flick:.


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## ozanter

FYI guys... Williams Brewing just came out with an adapter for a paintball tank. I plan on getting it and see how it fits. 

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWER_S_EDGE_PAINTBALL_MINI__P2656.cfm


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## yikesjason

awesome! I might go for that after I run out of disposables. I might have even bought the one that was just up in the SnS if I had known.


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## ddtran46

ozanter said:


> FYI guys... Williams Brewing just came out with an adapter for a paintball tank. I plan on getting it and see how it fits.
> 
> http://www.williamsbrewing.com/BREWER_S_EDGE_PAINTBALL_MINI__P2656.cfm


Will this work with the pierce co2 system?


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## msnikkistar

I don't think that will fit the Pierce co2 kit. The aquatouch one may. Could be you could use several fittings to get it to connect. Who knows.


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## malaybiswas

ddtran46 said:


> Will this work with the pierce co2 system?


No it won't. You will need adaptors. Check local h/w stores


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## Mr. Leg

Does any one want to sell one of these to me?


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## builderbob

how about this regulator instead leland ?

http://www.virtualvillage.com/aquar...dium=shcomp&utm_campaign=google_shopping_feed

this is only $40


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