# Complete newbs DIY 1st time aquarium



## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Anyone have tips on removing hard water buildups from old tanks?


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## h2oaggie (Feb 28, 2011)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Anyone have tips on removing hard water buildups from old tanks?


Use white vinegar on a rag/paper towel.


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## Lil' Swimz$ (Jul 24, 2010)

If that doesn't work, let newspapers soaked in vinegar soak on the stains over night.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

h2oaggie said:


> Use white vinegar on a rag/paper towel.



These are pretty bad stains. I tried vinegar and got some out. Then soaked each side in CLR and so far have removed all of the lower (below the previous watermark) stains but can't get the higher stains out. 

I have a polishing wheel - is there any solvent or pad I could use with it to buff the deposits away?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Lil' Swimz$ said:


> If that doesn't work, let newspapers soaked in vinegar soak on the stains over night.


I'll try this. Isn't there a possibility straight vinegar over night will etch the glass?


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## Lil' Swimz$ (Jul 24, 2010)

Etch the glass? No way. I have done this before and it only leaves super clear glass. Just be careful not to soak too much vinegar on the silicone, it loosens it.


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## feh (Feb 13, 2011)

feeder fish are never really well cared for. get something they want to sell to live and might have better luck. but try a different source... chain stores aren't really the best place to get fish.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Lil' Swimz$ said:


> Etch the glass? No way. I have done this before and it only leaves super clear glass. Just be careful not to soak too much vinegar on the silicone, it loosens it.


Awesome, I'll be soaking it tonight.



feh said:


> feeder fish are never really well cared for. get something they want to sell to live and might have better luck. but try a different source... chain stores aren't really the best place to get fish.


I definitely agree. The local fish I gathered seem to be doing well. The mosquito fish are loving the termites I feed them and the tad poles going to town on frozen spinach. Rest seem do be doing alright on goldfish flake and the water is staying nice an clear with my DIY filter. 

Are there pros and cons to a biological filter versus coal?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

my mosquito fish gave birth today or yesterday. I count at least 18 babies. Hopefully the mother doesn't get to hungry and eat them all.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

12 feeder fish in a 10 gallon? That's alot of fish in that size tank, they could have all died from ammonia spike. You should add fish gradually to an tank that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Goldfish can get pretty big if they live. You could probably keep 1 or 2 in that size tank for a while, but they would be better off in a bigger tank. Goldfish are very messy as far as eating and producing waste, so siphoning the gravel and water changes are important.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kamikazi said:


> 12 feeder fish in a 10 gallon? That's alot of fish in that size tank, they could have all died from ammonia spike. You should add fish gradually to an tank that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Goldfish can get pretty big if they live. You could probably keep 1 or 2 in that size tank for a while, but they would be better off in a bigger tank. Goldfish are very messy as far as eating and producing waste, so siphoning the gravel and water changes are important.



I have to admit it was poorly thought out. I'm use to feeder fish being quite sick and assumed most wouldn't make the first night which is why we picked up so many to begin with. Most never lasted the first few hours and died in the bag while we floated them. 


I have a question - the mosquito fish gave birth and most of the young are cruising around the very bottom of the tank just above the gravel. They are TINY - how do I clean my gravel? Or how long can I go without cleaning it while they grow?

I found some scaping material I gathered in Death Valley and hopefully I'll be making it to the local aquarium store today to check out plant availability. Pretty stoked to get this 20 gallon going.


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## Fishly (Jan 8, 2010)

To get started in aquariums, you'll need to know a few things. I don't know how much you know, so I just wrote it all down. I'll add links later: 

1: Cycling- This refers to the process by which waste from the fish is processed by bacteria in the filter into less harmful chemicals.

2: Filtration- Most tanks need a filter, and there are several diffferent kinds. For a tank your size, you'll probably want a power filter. Filters circulate water and catch particles that are suspended in the water, keeping the water clean. More importantly, they provide a place for beneficial bacteria to grow. If you get a filter, make sure it isn't one of those that tells you to change the pad. What you want is a filter with a reusable pad or sponge that you merely rinse out when it gets dirty. Make sure you never clean out the filter with tap water, use old tank water from a water change. 
This article explains both cycling and filtration: http://fins.actwin.com/mirror/filters.html

3: Water conditions- this refers to the chemical composition of the water in which the fish are kept. pH refers to how acidic or basic the water is, GH and KH refer to the hardness and buffering capacity of the water. "Buffering" refers to the water's resistance to rapid changes in pH, which are stressful to fish.
The first part of this article goes into more detail: http://www.chelonia.org/articles/waterchemistry.htm

4: Diseases- there are many, many diseases fish can get, but the most common ones are Ich, Velvet, Fin Rot, Columnaris (mouth or body "fungus"), and internal parasites. There are many more than that, but those seem to be the most common. Some diseases are always in the tank, but they don't affect the fish unless it is stressed, so the best way to prevent them is to keep the water clean. Other diseases (usually parasites) can only be introduced by an infected fish, so the best way to prevent them is to quarantine fish for a few weeks before adding them to an established tank. 
Here's a good link: http://badmanstropicalfish.com/fish_palace/tropicalfish_disease_identification.html

5: Cleaning the Tank- Cleaning the tank involves removing solid fish waste (called "mulm") and chemical fish waste (ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate; see Cycling). There are three main actions for cleaning the tank: water changes, which is when water is taken out of the tank and replaced with fresh water; vacuuming, which is when a hose is used to suck mulm from the substrate and remove it from the tank; and filter cleaning, which is when mulm is rinsed from filter pads.


Planted aquariums are a specialty type of aquarium that have additional requirements:

1: Light- Most aquariums only need a light for the purpose of making it easier to see the fish. Most plants require more light than that, and in particular shades. The amount of light determines how quickly a plant will grow, but if the light is too low, some plants will die.

2: CO2- Carbon is a basic building block of plant cells, and they can't grow without it. In all aquariums, there is some CO2, but it is quickly used up by most plants. The lower the light, the less the demand for CO2, but most plants will benefit from additional CO2. There are three ways to add carbon to the tank: DIY CO2, which is when yeast is used to produce CO2 and add it to the tank; Excel, which is a chemical which can be added to the tank as a liquid source of carbon; and pressurized CO2, which is when bottled CO2 is purchased and injected into the tank.

3: Fertilizers- All plants need certain nutrients in addition to CO2 to grow. These include macro nutrients -nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium- which are required in large amounts, and micro nutrients -iron and others- which are required in smaller amounts. Fertilizers can be added to the tank in liquid or powdered form, or can be added to the substrate.

4: Substrate- Most plants have roots and need something in which to grow. There is a wide variety of substrates you can use, including sand, gravel, dirt, and commercially available substrates, like Flourite or Aquasoil. An important aspect of the substrate is carbon exchange capacity (CEC), which is the substrate's ability to adsorb nutrients and hold onto them until the plants need them.


These are just the basics, but once you learn about these you should be able to handle finding more info without feeling overwhelmed. Remember, this is a hobby, and it is your tank, so if you're not having fun, there's not much point, no matter how healthy your fish are. It's okay not to have the ideal setup, and it's okay to make mistakes and have tank crashes along the way.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Thanks Fishly!

Most of this I have under control as I'm a bio major with an emphasis on natural resources and soils. I understand the nitrogen cycle, BOD, CEC (which stands for cation exchange capacity - you were close), macros and micros... 

What I particularly need help with is specific conditions for specific aquatic species. I'm into soils and have a bit of experience with hydroponics so I know what conditions (EC, ppm...) that terrestrial plants require but I have a feeling that 1600ppm of nitrogen, which is fine for tomatoes, isn't going to be great for fish...

My 10 gallons will need to be redone and I would rather go with organic slow release soil than have to dose with nutes. At the moment though my focus is on this 20 gallon. 










I see that people here have decent results with Miracle Grow organic which I have used before (non aquatic) and find runs very hot (high high quick release nitrogen levels). I'm using an organic potting soil base amended with half mineralized high nitrogen bone meal, alfalfa meal, and a tad of kelp meal - it should be very similar to Miracle grow but with a slower nitrogen release pattern and a lot less urea and salts.

I have capped my soil in river sand and set up some simple hard scape and am now awaiting my water to sit so I can start stocking it with plants. I know a bit about plants but very little about specific aquatic plants but this is what I am thinking - 

fissidens fontanus - next to base of tree
glossostigma elatinoides - sides of river
Hemianthus callitrichoides - tiny tiny ground cover for whole tank
Hydrocotyle verticillata - towards the back?
Riccia fluitans - even better ground cover for the tank.
Crystmas moss - for rock/base of trees
Vallisneria nana - long grassy plant for back of tank - two on each side.
Java moss or something similar for the tops of the trees. 

This is the filter that came free with the tank - Might modify it just a bit. I also have several sumps if I choose to go that way later. 










Light will be one of my DIY CFL rigs that I use for indoor lighting. Some people don't seem to realize it but CFLs are the exact same (actually better when it comes to penetration) as T5HO bulbs. I can run anywhere from 1-12 bulbs with my rigs but I'm thinking I'll likely go with 4 23w 6500k unless I can find some cheap 10k bulbs to mix the spectrum with. If this is too much or not enough light please let me know - 92w over a 20gallon.

A DIY C02 is in the works as well.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

Cool trees, are they dead bonsai trees?

Are you planning on injecting CO2?

You are planning on 4 clfs over a 20 gallon, its making me wonder if I still have too little light over my 40 breeder.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kamikazi said:


> 12 feeder fish in a 10 gallon? That's alot of fish in that size tank, they could have all died from ammonia spike. You should add fish gradually to an tank that has completed the nitrogen cycle. Goldfish can get pretty big if they live. You could probably keep 1 or 2 in that size tank for a while, but they would be better off in a bigger tank. Goldfish are very messy as far as eating and producing waste, so siphoning the gravel and water changes are important.





kamikazi said:


> Cool trees, are they dead bonsai trees?
> 
> Are you planning on injecting CO2?
> 
> You are planning on 4 clfs over a 20 gallon, its making me wonder if I still have too little light over my 40 breeder.



The trees are in a sense bonsais but all natural. I want to say they are a type of sage that grows in the desert - those were most likely 50+ year old plants that had been dead for another 40+ years before I picked them up - death valley is a crazy place. 

I'm planning on a DIY C02 system to start with. 

*Change of plans - New 40g Breeder* 

I couldn't help myself and rushed over to petco for their $1 gallon sale and picked up a new 40g breeder to replace the water stained 20g.

I'm debating on sticking to a mountainous landscape with those trees like before or just a flat bottom with a big piece of driftwood I have - can't see in pictures but its hollow so if I put it at an angle it would kind of look like a hallowed out stump.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

really cool on the trees, I'd love to put one in a tank. 

great choice on the 40 breeder! lots of room for scaping and plants



ReluctantHippy said:


> The trees are in a sense bonsais but all natural. I want to say they are a type of sage that grows in the desert - those were most likely 50+ year old plants that had been dead for another 40+ years before I picked them up - death valley is a crazy place.
> 
> I'm planning on a DIY C02 system to start with.
> 
> ...


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

I don't see any mention of your lights. 
These plants are difficult and require high light:
fissidens fontanus - next to base of tree
glossostigma elatinoides - sides of river
Hemianthus callitrichoides 

Sounds like you are being impulsive as I was with this hobby. Result is loss of plants and money. 

First to get light, for it is the most important and expensive item needed for planted tank. Then get plants suited for the light.

Also what about the stand?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> I don't see any mention of your lights.
> These plants are difficult and require high light:
> fissidens fontanus - next to base of tree
> glossostigma elatinoides - sides of river
> ...


The stand? I never thought of that as important... This tank is currently on a beefy desk but was originally going to go on my tank stand (I'm new to aquariums but not to viquariums and terrariums). 

Lighting has been mentioned but I'll go over it again - DIY CFL fixture that can hold from 1-12 CFLs 12-23w each. CFLs are equivalent to T5HO lighting but throw further (more penetration through water) so I don't think I'll have a problem. I already have the fixture and all the bulbs I could ever possibly use.

I'm an indoor terrestrial plant grower so I have all the lighting (including 400w - 1000w ballasts w/ HID lamps if I want to go there), air pumps, sumps, air stones, activated carbon... I have soil stockpiled and river sand in the back yard. So far I've spent $10 on the 20 gallon tank which came with a filter and ~$45 on the 40 gallon breeder. I scoped out plants and it looks like it'll be ~$30. Everything else I should already have. I'm hoping not to spend more than $100 on this hobby till I know it wont all die but have figured I can double that budget if need be - this is my birthday present to myself so if it all does come tumbling down oh well. 

I've modified my plant list to these - the seller says they are not all that high maintenance so hopefully I don't kill them all immediately. 

1 Eleocharis acicularis
3 Riccia Fluitans - 
5 Crypt Parva 
1 Amazon Frogbit 
3 Java Moss 
1 Salvinia Minima 

Think I can pull these off? Again I really don't know much about the difficulty levels of specific plant species. Thanks for the input.

Oh, and how many W of light would you recommend for a 40 gallon breeder with the above plants? I was thinking of using the riccia as ground cover but have heard that's pretty light demanding versus having it float.

I'm being impulsive but lets see if I can pull it off


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> This tank is currently on a beefy desk but was originally going to go on my tank stand


Filled it will weigh 458 lbs. So you have a stand for 40g breeder?


ReluctantHippy said:


> I've modified my plant list to these
> 1 Eleocharis acicularis
> 3 Riccia Fluitans -
> 5 Crypt Parva
> ...


Seachem root tabs would benefit the Eleocharis acicularis and crypt. Eleocharis acicularis is the only 1 that may be difficult. Also it needs a little Seachem Excel (4ml daily). Alternative is 2.5% glutaraldehyde or Co2 injected. Check out Ebay for the glut. Read that diy Co2 for 29G tank and smaller, for difficult to regulate.


ReluctantHippy said:


> Lighting has been mentioned but I'll go over it again - DIY CFL fixture that can hold from 1-12 CFLs 12-23w each. How many W of light for a 40G breeder.


Thanks for sinus problems causing eyes to be irritated, thus I missed it. The watts per gallon is out dated. It applies to T12 bulbs. The CFLs may heat up the tank. Did you put fans under the hood? 

By hoppy-If the tank width is more than 12 inches use two fixtures, or a fixture with two bulbs separated by 6 inches or so, to get uniform light.


ReluctantHippy said:


> I'm hoping not to spend more than $100 on this hobby


Good luck on that. I spent more than $300. You have the lights and tools to make things, obviously, so that saves. This is a hobby that you can forever spend money on.


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## RickRS (Dec 31, 2010)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Some people don't seem to realize it but CFLs are the exact same (actually better when it comes to penetration) as T5HO bulbs.


If the majority was paying attention to that statement you would have a full scale forum war on your hands :biggrin:

But how is a CFL better at penetration into water depth? 

With 96 watts over a 20 gallon in the original setup, it seem excessive without CO2. But since you're moving to DIY CO2, have fun!


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Filled it will weigh 458 lbs. So you have a stand for 40g breeder?
> 
> Seachem root tabs would benefit the Eleocharis acicularis and crypt. Eleocharis acicularis is the only 1 that may be difficult. Also it needs a little Seachem Excel (4ml daily). Alternative is 2.5% glutaraldehyde or Co2 injected. Check out Ebay for the glut. Read that diy Co2 for 29G tank and smaller, for difficult to regulate.
> 
> ...


My stand was for a 75 gallon? (48"x16") but unfortunately is too narrow for the 18"w breeder. The desk supports both my girlfriend and I at the same time so should hold the 350lbs of water and substrate. 

I was wondering about the lights this morning - a single row of 6-12 bulbs or a double row of six per row. I'm thinking the second unless I want to vary lumen at different parts of the tank. Was also wondering about the heat and glad you brought it up. I'm planning on having two 60 cfm computer fans venting the hood.



RickRS said:


> If the majority was paying attention to that statement you would have a full scale forum war on your hands :biggrin:
> 
> But how is a CFL better at penetration into water depth?
> 
> With 96 watts over a 20 gallon in the original setup, it seem excessive without CO2. But since you're moving to DIY CO2, have fun!


Oh jeez - don't want to start anything here  Light degrades based on the inverse square law:










A 23w CFL produces the same lumen as a 23 T5HO bulb but it produces the lumen in a very different cast pattern with the lumen originating from a more compact source than a T5. This is very very simplified but if you have an 18" 23w T5 putting off 1600 lumen that's ~90 lumen an inch, one foot away that's 22.5 lumen/inch. The CFL's cast pattern starts at 2" wide and widens circularly downward. 1' directly below the CFL should average ~200 lumen depending on how you want to add it up. (these are very rough above water calculations - I'm not familiar with light traveling through water but assume it is still correlated with the inverse square law) This is essentially why very deep tanks need HID lighting versus a ton of flouros - single point lumen sources penetrate much farther than the same number of lumen of many smaller bulbs. 

I'll admit that T5's are more convenient and better looking not to mention it's really hard finding 10k CFLs so PAR wise mixed spectrum T5 fixtures are a bit better.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

What are you going to do for a reflector? Some use a gutter to make one for bulbs. Once read someone made a diy light with the CFLs. said it didn't really save him any money. Best to always compare diy cost with new item. Sometimes cheaper to buy new.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> What are you going to do for a reflector? Some use a gutter to make one for bulbs. Once read someone made a diy light with the CFLs. said it didn't really save him any money. Best to always compare diy cost with new item. Sometimes cheaper to buy new.



This is a bathroom vanity light fixture that I disassembled. Cost me $3.










I have some great looking old solid wood pieces of barn siding that I am going to cut into a frame for the top, line the interior with mylar, mount two of these 6 bulb strips, and then install the two cpu fans under cut slats for exhaust. If I do it right It should mask the ugly black plastic top rim and only extend ~3-4" from the top of the tank. Best thing is that it will cost me nothing - I already had these light fixtures, and I have the wood, screws, mylar, cpu fans, and a transformer to power them. 

I'm busy sorting pebbles by color for the 'stream' right now but here's the progress on the tank so far.











/e the Easy Rider poster will be moved as well


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Too much contrast with colored rocks? Perhaps small jagged blue rocks with whitish sand between the cracks? Let me know what you guys think.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

looks cool! I have my doubts as to how well the dirt will stay separated from the "stream"

I have seen people use dividers to keep substrate types from mixing. I have seen various dividers ranging from plexiglass strips, garden edging, to larger rocks, all of which extend from the bottom of the tank to the top edge of the substrate.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kamikazi said:


> looks cool! I have my doubts as to how well the dirt will stay separated from the "stream"
> 
> I have seen people use dividers to keep substrate types from mixing. I have seen various dividers ranging from plexiglass strips, garden edging, to larger rocks, all of which extend from the bottom of the tank to the top edge of the substrate.


Thanks. I won't be too heart broken if some of the river sand ends up on the rocks. A bit worried the entire mass of soil below it all might float up due to too thin of a cap though... we shall see; live and learn.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> I have some great looking old solid wood pieces of barn siding that I am going to cut into a frame for the top, line the interior with mylar


I tried mylar. It doesn't last very long. Also test with par meter by Hoppy showed that inside painted with very white paint reflects better than mylar.

Some moss would look nice on those trees. Check out what 1 did with trees and moss here.

Here is another idea by msnikkistar


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> I tried mylar. It doesn't last very long. Also test with par meter by Hoppy showed that inside painted with very white paint reflects better than mylar.
> 
> Some moss would look nice on those trees. Check out what 1 did with trees and moss here.
> 
> Here is another idea by msnikkistar


Brilliant! My idea was to have moss on the trees like all the other scapes I've been looking at. I feel kinda lame for copying other people but really like that look. Next tank I'll have to make look like more of a natural underwater scene. 

What happened to the mylar? I've only seen the stuff break down outdoors due to UV but does the extra CO2 eat it up as well? Flat white paint is definitely an option. Was the total PAR higher or just the % of PAR to lumen output? I could see mylar reflecting more lumen but white paint reflecting more PAR lumen if that makes any sense. 

It was raining yesterday so I wasn't about to go play with power toys outside but hopefully today I'll get most of my hood banged out.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

ReluctantHippy said:


> What happened to the mylar? I've only seen the stuff break down outdoors due to UV but does the extra CO2 eat it up as well? Flat white paint is definitely an option as well. Was the total PAR higher or just the % of PAR to lumen output? I could see mylar reflecting more lumen but white paint reflecting more PAR lumen if that makes any sense.


What about using aluminum foil glued to the inside to act as a reflector?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kamikazi said:


> What about using aluminum foil glued to the inside to act as a reflector?


Aluminum foil works but isn't the greatest. It traps quite a bit of heat and isn't nearly as reflective as mylar or white paint. Technically speaking polished aluminum is the best, mylar the second, flat/matt white paint third, aluminum foil, mirrors (not as good as you would think and trap tons of heat), ... Of course shape and a few other factors come into play and some of the materials are very close - the first three vary by only a few percent with polished aluminum at ~95%, mylar ~92%, white paint ~90%.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Aluminum foil works but isn't the greatest. It traps quite a bit of heat and isn't nearly as reflective as mylar or white paint. Technically speaking polished aluminum is the best, mylar the second, flat/matt white paint third, aluminum foil, mirrors (not as good as you would think and trap tons of heat), ... Of course shape and a few other factors come into play and some of the materials are very close - the first three vary by only a few percent with polished aluminum at ~95%, mylar ~92%, white paint ~90%.



In that case I would just go with what ever I had on hand or was cheapest.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kamikazi said:


> In that case I would just go with what ever I had on hand or was cheapest.


Yeah. As crazy as it is I can't seem to find the white paint I thought I had. Will most likely go with mylar just due to having it on hand. 

Progress so far:


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Do I put my fans pointing up to exhaust heat out the top or point them at the water to get a swamp cooler effect going and to agitate the water?

Any suggestions? 

I don't know what I'm going to do about the back strip either. It's just enough room for my filter to hook on the back so I'm not sure on how to cover the areas not taken up by the filter. I need a table saw 

Does activated carbon strip tannins?


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

rotozip or dremel? You could always use a hand saw it will just be a bit more work

I have no idea about the vent, I would guess vent out.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kamikazi said:


> rotozip or dremel? You could always use a hand saw it will just be a bit more work
> 
> I have no idea about the vent, I would guess vent out.


I don't have either  I could use my jigsaw I guess. I just feel like ripping a three foot plank with a jigsaw. Damn laziness!

Hows it look so far though?

Filter placement matter? Corner better to provide a varied agitation or smack dab in the middle to make is even?


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

I think the top looks pretty good, do you have to have it 100% covered? you could just leave the part where the filter is open.

What type of filter are you using? If you said I dont recall and my laziness is preventing me from looking back to see.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

just noticed your carbon question and I don't think it does much against tannins. If you hate the color you can get something I think its called puregian or something like that.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

So decided not to be lazy. I'll have to make another so that I can change my mind and put it in the middle as well. 





























Maybe some legs now so I can see my floaters if I want?

Blah, I need more screws. I kinda like this top, going to have to make another one for the lizard cage now.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Can you have too much CO2? Does it just become a pH and algae issue or can you actually obtain toxic levels?


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## kshah (Aug 24, 2010)

From what I've read on this forum, plants wont suffer from excessive co2. Fauna will, however. 

Nice work so far! Looking forward to seeing some more.

Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk


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## numbah84 (Jun 28, 2011)

A ton of co2 with enough lightning plants to take it up can make the water really acidic and bad for some plants. But if you have any surface agitation any high amounts of co2 will outgas before anything gets toxic.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Can you have too much CO2? Does it just become a pH and algae issue or can you actually obtain toxic levels?


It can kill fish. Alot of times people with CO2 use what I think is called a drop checker (I may have the part name wrong) anyway there is a liquid in it, if its green its safe, if its yellow that is when it starts to become dangerous for the fish


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

kshah said:


> From what I've read on this forum, plants wont suffer from excessive co2. Fauna will, however.
> 
> Nice work so far! Looking forward to seeing some more.
> 
> Sent from my Inspire 4G using Tapatalk


That's what I was thinking. Thanks for the info and I hope you continue to stop by and watch the progress.



numbah84 said:


> A ton of co2 with enough lightning plants to take it up can make the water really acidic and bad for some plants. But if you have any surface agitation any high amounts of co2 will outgas before anything gets toxic.


Awesome info. Would a hang on back filter provide enough surface agitation? I guess I can always tweak it to provide more or less if need be.



kamikazi said:


> It can kill fish. Alot of times people with CO2 use what I think is called a drop checker (I may have the part name wrong) anyway there is a liquid in it, if its green its safe, if its yellow that is when it starts to become dangerous for the fish


Hmmm. I'm going to a legitimate fish store for the first time today and I'll have to add that to my list.


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## gnod (Mar 24, 2011)

all i got to say it - your DW are AWESOME!!!
can you please share with me where you got those!? i want some...


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

gnod said:


> all i got to say it - your DW are AWESOME!!!
> can you please share with me where you got those!? i want some...



I would love to but what is DW? 

Oh wait it just clicked - driftwood? Those are actually two very very old tiny shrubs that I gathered in Death Valley right outside of the park. Absolutely amazing place with the most bizarre serene rock formations of every type immaginable and some pretty cool desert plants as well. Lets hope they don't just rot away once immersed.

Might try a bonsai grower. It's basically a dead bonsai.

Or did you mean the really big piece I was thinking of using? That either came from a local grape orchard or a reptile store. Don't remember.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Does the photo period matter on aquatic plants? Longer the lights are on the better or does it hit a max beneficial limit? Tropical plants I'm assuming 12-14 is ideal?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> What happened to the mylar?


I vaguely remember it flaking as if it got overheated.



ReluctantHippy said:


> Does the photo period matter on aquatic plants? Longer the lights are on the better . I'm assuming 12-14 is ideal?


Well they might do well with the light but you would also get an algae bloom. Read 10 hours max. 

I have lights on 4h 2xs with 3hr siesta. Since I have been doing this I don't have algae problems. Some algae is harmless some destroys the plants.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> I vaguely remember it flaking as if it got overheated.
> 
> 
> Well they might do well with the light but you would also get an algae bloom. Read 10 hours max.
> ...



Great info. Thanks for all the prompt replies.


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## tuffgong (Apr 13, 2010)

Nice setup. I swear by CFLs since they are so easy to find and setup. It's also really easy to modify light levels when you are working in 14/15w or 23w increment levels. Here are my setups with CFLs. Maybe it will help you determine what will work for you.

2.5g - 1 14w CFL 10 hour photoperiod w/glut
10g rubbermaid tub - 1 14w CFL 10 photoperiod w/glut
10g - 2 14w CFL 10 hour photoperiod w/glut
10g - 2 14w CFL 10 hour photoperiod
20g long - 3 14w CFL 8 hour photoperiod w/2 DIY yeast bottles
20g high - 2 14w CFL 8 hour photoperiod w/2 DIY yeast bottles
35g hex - 2 23w CFL 10 hour photoperiod w/glut

Multi Tank Syndrome has me bad. I would not be able to appease it if I had to buy T5HO for every setup. I do have a T5HO setup on my 55g though. I was a bio major too and I would be careful if I were you. Planted tanks are very addicting!!! . If you get a chance can you check out my Dollar Store Dirt Tank in my sig? I would be interested to hear what you have to say about the soil I used. The thread is due for an update but the tank is doing great.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

tuffgong said:


> Nice setup. I swear by CFLs since they are so easy to find and setup. It's also really easy to modify light levels when you are working in 14/15w or 23w increment levels. Here are my setups with CFLs. Maybe it will help you determine what will work for you.
> 
> 2.5g - 1 14w CFL 10 hour photoperiod w/glut
> 10g rubbermaid tub - 1 14w CFL 10 photoperiod w/glut
> ...


Thanks so much! I actually think I checked out your thread the first day I was on this site and a several times afterwards. Great job, I'm a huge fan of low budget. What is glut? 

I'm currently running 6 x 15w and two 23w over the 40 gallon. Is this too much? I just put in some HC and hear it needs high light so I was actually thinking of putting more bulbs in... 

Should I step up my single DIY CO2 to two? Atm I only have the tank 1/4 full so half the HC is under a few inches of water and the other half is emerged. I was thinking the low water and the layer of CO2 building on the waters surface would help it all gain root before I fill up completely.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> What is glut?


Short for glutaraldehyde which provides a bioavailable source of carbon.


ReluctantHippy said:


> Atm I only have the tank 1/4 full so half the HC is under a few inches of water and the other half is emerged.


Dry start method would work better. Chasintrades - Dry start means the roots are wet, but the leaves are up in the air. Allows the leaves to remain in contact with the air above for good CO2/O2 exchange.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Short for glutaraldehyde which provides a bioavailable source of carbon.
> 
> Dry start method would work better. Chasintrades - Dry start means the roots are wet, but the leaves are up in the air. Allows the leaves to remain in contact with the air above for good CO2/O2 exchange.


Awesome. I got some excel, I'm guessing that's similar to the glud. 

I wanted to do the dry start but with my uneven landscape I'm afraid the upper potions won't be damp enough if the lower portions are above water.

/e I drained a bit more. I'll just keep on top of spraying and might do a daily flood and drain.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Awesome. I got some excel, I'm guessing that's similar to the glud.


Yes! It is just diluted form of glud. Cheaper alternative is MetriCide Plus. Is $15 on Ebay with no shipment charge.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Does UV help aquatic plants at all? Or is it just used to kill bacteria, microbes, and water born algae? I have 8 UV Flouros that will no longer be used fairly soon - should I make a DIY UV filter, mount in my hood, or just let them sit?


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Does UV help aquatic plants at all?


Nope.



> Or is it just used to kill bacteria, microbes, and water born algae?


Yep.



> I have 8 UV Flouros that will no longer be used fairly soon - should I make a DIY UV filter, mount in my hood, or just let them sit?


Totally optional. Some people love UVs as they'll prevent any possible GW outbreaks and can also prevent issues with some parasites/diseases, too. I personally don't care for them b/c they indiscrimantly kill the good microfauna along with the bad... so IMO it's totally just a matter of personal preference.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Does the photo period matter on aquatic plants? Longer the lights are on the better or does it hit a max beneficial limit? Tropical plants I'm assuming 12-14 is ideal?


Average is 8-10 hours/day.

Every tank is unique, however, and it's always a good idea to experiement to figure out what works best for your particular tank.

My own 90gal I keep to 6-7 hrs/day just b/c the lighting is on the high side for a low tech tank.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

lauraleellbp said:


> Average is 8-10 hours/day.
> 
> Every tank is unique, however, and it's always a good idea to experiement to figure out what works best for your particular tank.


Good way to point out that what may work for 1 will not work for another. Even know someone whom has 3 10 gallon tanks side with 1 light over all and dosing the same has problems with BBA (black brush algae) in one of tanks (middle).

The lights are the engine (quoting Tom Barr) so if you start seeing too much algae cut the time down. All tanks have some algae and not all algae is harmful to the plants. The goal is to nourish the plants so that they will out compete the algae.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

lauraleellbp said:


> Nope.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks for confirming what I thought. I kinda like the idea of keeping the good stuff around so I'll likely skip out on the UV unless I have a particular problem.



lauraleellbp said:


> Average is 8-10 hours/day.
> 
> Every tank is unique, however, and it's always a good idea to experiement to figure out what works best for your particular tank.
> 
> My own 90gal I keep to 6-7 hrs/day just b/c the lighting is on the high side for a low tech tank.


Sounds good. If I'm trying to grow HC in an unfilled but moist tank can I leave lights on longer? Or I should say would it help? Less likely of an algae bloom I would assume. 

Sorry for making you warn me - I'm use to other types of forums and it never occurred to me. Will definitely try to learn some different ways to show my excitement. 



Hilde said:


> Good way to point out that what may work for 1 will not work for another. Even know someone whom has 3 10 gallon tanks side with 1 light over all and dosing the same has problems with BBA (black brush algae) in one of tanks (middle).
> 
> The lights are the engine (quoting Tom Barr) so if you start seeing too much algae cut the time down. All tanks have some algae and not all algae is harmful to the plants. The goal is to nourish the plants so that they will out compete the algae.


Makes sense. At one point I'm dreading algae and the other point I'm looking forward to it so I can learn management techniques.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> At one point I'm dreading algae and the other point I'm looking forward to it so I can learn management techniques.


Well sometimes going trough the learning process you loose plants. :icon_sad:

Here more info on it.

From what I remember most say:
1st check balance of light with Co2.
2nd check circulation for it evenly distributes the Co2
3rd check nutrients
4th add more plants

When I got BBA I was unable to change the light or adjust the circulation thus I worked on the nutrients. Found low nitrates was the cause. Due to over feeding nitrates got high and then I got string algae. Thus had to do water changes with distilled water and decrease feeding of fish.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Well sometimes going trough the learning process you loose plants. :icon_sad:
> 
> Here more info on it.
> 
> ...



Great link! Bookmarked it for future problems. Can I get a link to your tank Hilde? I'm not too savy at navigating this site just yet.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Can I get a link to your tank Hilde?


Here it is. Still working on scaping but at least finally got plants growing. 

Now doing a small clean up. For found metal I had marbles on corroded and everything around it had black substance. Due to back problems and allergies haven't had much time to shape it up.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Here it is. Still working on scaping but at least finally got plants growing.
> 
> Now doing a small clean up. For found metal I had marbles on corroded and everything around it had black substance. Due to back problems and allergies haven't had much time to shape it up.


That looks great! I just got some peacock moss from a raok and am still awaiting the majority of my other plants. Can't wait till everything it in the sand. Not looking forward to the wait for grow in though  Damn impatience.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Some of my HC didn't do as well but other parts are really taking off - well at least I see new healthy growth. I expect the rest of my plants later this week so I've started to slowly increase my water level by about a half inch per day. Hopefully this will increase the growth rate of some of the HC still above water and help the rest slowly acclimate to being submerged.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

HC is starting to grow out well with some parts having doubles in size. Still inching the water line up every day - hopefully getting my plants in today or tomorrow and will flood to the top then. 


























Have two baby mosquito fish in here. 

















My other two babies:

















I have quite a few baby triops as well that will be going into my big tank when it gets filled.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Hilde said:


> Yes! It is just diluted form of glud. Cheaper alternative is MetriCide Plus. Is $15 on Ebay with no shipment charge.


Don't forget the carbon additive. For the ground cover plants need it badly when the tank is full.

The baby triops wey cool. Look like preying matis. Read that they mostly root through debris thus should be a good clean up crew. Why did you get them?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Don't forget the carbon additive. For the ground cover plants need it badly when the tank is full.
> 
> The baby triops wey cool. Look like preying matis. Read that they mostly root through debris thus should be a good clean up crew. Why did you get them?


I have my DIY CO2 and will dose heavy with the excel. Hopefully the growth will continue without slowing too drastically. 

Triops were a childhood favorite and I recently ran across eggs on ebay for $5 shipped. Thought they would be fun for my tiny vase before I put the fish in it. I'm thinking that once they get bigger they should do a good job cleaning the place and should be a bit more resilient than shrimp when it comes to fish. Even though they are cheap I still think they look awesome, more so than some of the high dollar shrimp I've seen.

/e those are mantis pictured, the triops look like little white dots at the moment.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> I have my DIY CO2 and will dose heavy with the excel.


Didn't know the tripods were of the shrimp family. Thus they are probably sensitive to excel. Besides with DIY co2 you don't need excel.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Didn't know the tripods were of the shrimp family. Thus they are probably sensitive to excel. Besides with DIY co2 you don't need excel.


I was thinking a little of both should cover my bases 

Triops are crustaceans like shrimp but diverge at the class level. They are more similar to horseshoe crabs. Ancient little buggers.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Some water and a few plant - 


























Current line-up:

Micranthemum umbrosum
Eleocharis acicularis 
Riccia Fluitans 
Crypt Parva
Amazon Frogbit
Java Moss
Salvinia Minima
Peacock Moss
HC


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

One my of mosquito fish has the Ich  Started treatment today. 

Noticed a couple hitchhikers in my big tank -


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Is hot glue gun glue safe for plants and animals? 

I was having a terrible time with my HOB filter suspended from my hood just dumping crazy bubbles into my tank. I ended up making a DIY plexiglass ramp for the water to spill down but had to attach it via hot glue. This ok? Do I need to go buy some silicone?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

How long should I wait before introducing fish? I have some baby mosquito fish along with some local minnows that could both use an upgrade.


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## firefiend (Sep 3, 2009)

I believe that there are some Hot glue sticks that are toxic... just check which one you have.

A better solution is gorilla glue if you have that... it is non-toxic and I know it holds better once wet.

I've used hot glue on my vivarium build with great results... just make sure it's fully cured... I'd give it a full hour.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

firefiend said:


> I believe that there are some Hot glue sticks that are toxic... just check which one you have.
> 
> A better solution is gorilla glue if you have that... it is non-toxic and I know it holds better once wet.
> 
> I've used hot glue on my vivarium build with great results... just make sure it's fully cured... I'd give it a full hour.


Gorilla glue is non toxic? Would have never guessed, thanks for the info. 

Your vivarium looks amazing btw.


Would a 6 on, 3 off, 6 on, 3 off, 6 on, work for a lighting schedule to promote growth? Would the off periods stop algae growth enough?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Gorilla glue is non toxic? Would have never guessed, thanks for the info.


Another non toxic glue Super Glue gel. Sarge says," Can be used under water. Once you squeeze a bead off, it forms a shell, and dries slower in the water. I use KrazyGlue "


ReluctantHippy said:


> Would a 6 on, 3 off, 6 on, 3 off, 6 on, work for a lighting schedule


If you do that you will probably need to dose 6ml of Seachem excel daily. 
Dose 3ml daily of Seachem excel with this:
4 on, 3 off, 5 on or
6 on, 4 off, 3 on or
3 on, 4 off, 6 on


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Another non toxic glue Super Glue gel. Sarge says," Can be used under water. Once you squeeze a bead off, it forms a shell, and dries slower in the water. I use KrazyGlue "
> 
> If you do that you will probably need to dose 6ml of Seachem excel daily.
> Dose 3ml daily of Seachem excel with this:
> ...



Good info. I added another DIY CO2 generator but the bubbles are not being very well dispersed so I'll keep up with the daily excel schedule until I can rig up a better diffuser.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Added my minnows and baby mosquito fish. 

The mosquito fish are kinda boring hiding at the very top behind my floaters - they are tiny tiny though and just went from a 1/3 gallon to a 40 gallon so not surprised they are keeping quiet.

The first minnow checked out the tank and seemed fine for a bit. This morning the little guy seemed to be acting just a touch weird but very healthy so I added the other minnow. I guess they just missed each other because both now seem quite happy as they cruise the tank together.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Fishies! 

























Really hard to get a good shot of them. 

Here are some of the tank:


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

I need to go rent a PAR meter as it is killing me not knowing how much light I actually have. 

I've been fiddling with my lighting software and according to it there is no reason I shouldn't have any less than a T5HO system as long as my bulb placement is decent and my reflectors ok. 

Here's a comparison of a 2x39w vs 3x26w CFLs. With a loose grouping the CFLs are brighter mid tank don't compare at substrate levels however with a tight grouping they show slightly higher light levels than the T5. 


















CFLs closer together:










CFLs 6" lower than the T5 (mine are literally an inch from the surface of my water). 










Based on Intras Hunter Flex model T5 fixture and Emilux's Prado CFL fixture.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Don't understand those software pictures. You are making things complicated. I have been there thus know when 1 is doing what I have done. 

The light you have now looks like medium light. 

Even if you attempt to copy another's scape it will be different.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Don't understand those software pictures. You are making things complicated. I have been there thus know when 1 is doing what I have done.
> 
> The light you have now looks like medium light.
> 
> Even if you attempt to copy another's scape it will be different.


lol. I'm just bored. I was comparing equivalent wattage of CFL to T5HO when it comes to lumen. For some reason people on this forum think that T5HO is some miracle light and twice or three times as powerful as anything else. I don't personally understand this and have found different information/opinions on every other indoor plant forum I belong to so was just making sure that my lighting software agrees as well. 

According to some stickied charts on this site my 10 gal with a 13w T8 is high light whereas my 40 gal with 144w of CFL is super low light. I guess for other stickied posts my 40 gal is high light though... I think I just need to rent a PAR meter. 

And the whole point of the tank is to make it complicated.  If I'm not learning anything I'm bored. I'm going to learn everything I can about this hobby then tear the tank down and move on to the next thing. Lets hope it takes a while.


/e

I'm just worried about not knowing where I stand. A 4 bulb T5HO setup is considered high light even when on legs 4" above the water with side splash. I'm running about the same wattage 1" from the water with no splash and angled reflectors 1" or less from the bulbs. If the CRI, Lumen, Kelvin, and wattage are all the same what's the difference? Shouldn't PAR be the same?


Yeah for night pictures:


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Triops are growing. I might introduce the largest into my tank today. Hopefully the minnows won't bully it too much. 

Group shot - I have the larger older ones separated from the younger and still hatching.










This guy is around the size of a dime at around a week old:










Younger sibling:










And that fuzzy white dot is a hatchling:










In the tank:


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## doncityz (May 17, 2011)

The goldfishes died probably because you did not cycle the tank properly for about 3-4 weeks.

And let me say, triops are hideous creatures and I have no idea why anyone want to rear them. :eek5:


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## Kate (Jun 15, 2011)

lol I thought they were pretty cool looking untill i saw the tail, its very earwigish :-x. Cool tank btw those trees look so real


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

doncityz said:


> The goldfishes died probably because you did not cycle the tank properly for about 3-4 weeks.
> 
> And let me say, triops are hideous creatures and I have no idea why anyone want to rear them. :eek5:


lol. Yeah, I have a few theories on why the goldfish died - probably a combination of several factors. 

You don't think they are cute? So much better looking than shrimp imo. 



Kate said:


> lol I thought they were pretty cool looking untill i saw the tail, its very earwigish :-x. Cool tank btw those trees look so real


Thanks! The tail is very earwigish. Reminds me of silverfish (the non aquatic type). 



A couple experiments on reflectivity that I need to keep track of. y'all can ignore all this. 


Super simple test. 

Light in reflector:


Light with a piece of white paper on top:


Light with a sheet of mylar with no backing:


mylar with the same sheet of paper backing it:


Mylar like you said was terrible with no backing. But backed by just a piece of white paper and no light comes through even though the light had no problem going through the paper.

Now white paint:

Tried to put it on nice and thick:



Not to great:



1/4 just paper, 1/4 with white paint, 1/4 with white paint and mylar, 1/4 with just mylar:



Notice along the edge of the mylar where it isn't flat up against the paper? Light goes through it and the paper. But when right up against backing nothing escapes. Unless the light is being trapped between the two layers and getting stuck there (in which case it would get really really hot - essentially a 23w heater and I still think it would be visible) then the mylar seems to be the most reflective of those but only when coupled with a backing material that isn't translucent.

/e I'm putting two more coats of white paint and will test again. I'm disappointed it didn't work better as I use white paint often.

Three thick coats of titanium white paint (one of the more reflective whites)



Compared to just the paper:



The two compared to mylar:



I should include that this is the cheaper 1mil mylar versus the preferred 2mil


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> You don't think they are cute? So much better looking than shrimp imo.


I agree!! Remind me of horsehose crabs. IMO If you can't say anything nice don't say anything.


ReluctantHippy said:


> Now white paint:
> Tried to put it on nice and thick:


I used 3 coats of white spray paint. It came out very smooth.


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## 10gallonplanted (Oct 31, 2010)

Triops, I really really want these little guys. I find it fascinating that they lay their eggs in the substrate and you can dry it and put it in water and the whole life cycle starts over. Pretty good evolution for the small pools they live in. 
Oh and I also like the terrarium on the first page, surprised the lizard didn't trample the plants.
I like the rugged landscape of the tank too, fits the triops. Kinda Jurassic.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> I agree!! Remind me of horsehose crabs. IMO If you can't say anything nice don't say anything.
> 
> I used 3 coats of white spray paint. It came out very smooth.


Yup! My mini horseshoe crabs. I use to love gathering horseshoe crabs; so alien like. 

I just wanted to see how much light it would let pass through - seems like a bit more than 85% which kinda bums me out - perhaps a flat coat would have been more effective though. Hoppy is trying to argue with me that mylar is the worst reflective material out there and aluminum foil one of the best, I just don't buy it. Part of his argument was that light passes through mylar (when it is not backed); which it does but so does paint which he claims is much better. 



10gallonplanted said:


> Triops, I really really want these little guys. I find it fascinating that they lay their eggs in the substrate and you can dry it and put it in water and the whole life cycle starts over. Pretty good evolution for the small pools they live in.
> Oh and I also like the terrarium on the first page, surprised the lizard didn't trample the plants.
> I like the rugged landscape of the tank too, fits the triops. Kinda Jurassic.


Thanks! I love my little triops; their history, their appearance, their mannerisms, and most of all they do a great job cleaning the place - straight up little vacuum cleaners. If you wan't I can give you the order info, $5 for the kit (food, eggs, pipette) or $2 for just the eggs. I might have to order some for my sister in which case I could shoot you over a couple extra. Or who knows maybe I'll get em producing eggs and just start RAOKing them.

I've been thinking I need to redo my terrarium. It use to be very ornate with much more landscaping and some cooler rocks. The lizard tramples everything but fortunately the oregano I have growing in there and the clovers grow like weeds and the big plant in the back is an unknown weed that I could care less about - I actually end up breaking it's branches every other day so my lizard can't use it to escape. 



Big Tank Update - 

So this is what I believe has been happening:

Crypts haven't melted, HC is growing slowly, my riccia rocks and mats I made are growing very quickly which is kind of shocking me as the seller said it is hard to grow when it's not floating. The Micranthemum umbrosum is really taking off and the taller plants I had in the back have hit the top of the water, been trimmed, and then hit the top of the water again. My peacock moss mostly all turned brown and fell apart but my java moss is still dark green but doesn't show much growth.

I had a small algae bloom as I don't think I had enough plants for the amount of N coming from my freshly leached soil. Algae had dies down and is almost gone and the plants are growing even faster now - my floaters especially. 

My killifish eggs arrived in the mail yesterday direct from Thailand. Hopefully I can hatch a couple out with success even though I know very little about these fish. From what I understand they are similarly behaved to my mosquito fish (which is kinda boring) but hopefully they will be much more colorful. Anyone have an idea of how many I could put in my 40g and still have room for tetras?


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## 10gallonplanted (Oct 31, 2010)

I'd totally take some triops if you have any extra. And yeah shoot me the link, I wanna check it out. 

So do they just give you random color killi eggs? lol. Since I see 5 species on the package.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

10gallonplanted said:


> I'd totally take some triops if you have any extra. And yeah shoot me the link, I wanna check it out.
> 
> So do they just give you random color killi eggs? lol. Since I see 5 species on the package.


It's 5 species and two varietals of one of them: 
nothobranchius rachovii
nothobranchius eggersi blue and solid blue
nothobranchius guentheri
nothobranchius foerschi
simpsonichthys carlettoiw

You can order them separately or as a mixed pack and I chose mixed pack as I don't know about the differences. I should have around 10 eggs of each. I'll start them hatching in two weeks when they should be ready. 

http://www.triops.com/index.php?link=product4 This is the company I got mine from. Their ebay store might be just a tad cheaper and although it is not listed you can purchase just the eggs for $2 with $2 s/h.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Anyone know of a free video converter? I can record video in decent quality with a HUGE file size or really tiny with terrible quality.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Short video for my 100th post. You can't see in the video but the CO2 actually has tiny tiny bubbles that run up along the back of that rock and collect at certain spots - not ideal diffusion but better than just the large bubbles you see in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t_X5QoN6dE0


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

A couple of pic of my riccia rocks and a better video of the DIY CO2.


















http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H6mo0Qll5o <- turn the volume off, I don't know how to edit that.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Would a Siamese algae eater bother my plants? Would an Oto be better? Looking for a tiny algae eater that wont bother much. Any ideas? Maybe a tiny catfish like the bristlenose?


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## jayjigga (Mar 22, 2011)

I would go otos, as I have just RAOK'd my SAE's to a friend who didn't have that many plants. I loved my SAE's when the were smaller, but then they turned into bullies. I'm now all otos and I love their playful nature.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

I haven't had any success with otos. My water is very soft and some fish can't adapt to it. I have 1 gold algae eater in 29 g tank. Tank is so clean I increased the photo period. Companions are cherry barbs and Serpae tetra.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

jayjigga said:


> I would go otos, as I have just RAOK'd my SAE's to a friend who didn't have that many plants. I loved my SAE's when the were smaller, but then they turned into bullies. I'm now all otos and I love their playful nature.


I was reading about their playful nature which really caught me. I definitely prefer smaller fish and no bullies - I think my mosquito fish will do that enough once they get larger. I might go pick up a couple of these today.



Hilde said:


> I haven't had any success with otos. My water is very soft and some fish can't adapt to it. I have 1 gold algae eater in 29 g tank. Tank is so clean I increased the photo period. Companions are cherry barbs and Serpae tetra.


That would be perfect. I love that these stay so small. I'll have to keep an eye out for these as well.


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## demonr6 (Mar 14, 2011)

Get a full tank shot when you can and post it up please.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

demonr6 said:


> Get a full tank shot when you can and post it up please.


Will do once the lights turn back on. 

I picked up two otos from the local fish store. I had my back turned while they grabbed them from the tank (noob mistake I assume) and when I got home I noticed neither have a tail fin. Not sure if they were stressed before or had angry tank mates but I hope they get along a bit better in my tank. Kinda blown away they were in this condition at the fish store considering how much great stuff I hear about it.


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## gmt980 (Jul 7, 2011)

It doesnt look like the co2 is diffusing at all. When large bubbles are making it all the way up to the surface, thats bad. I would maybe look into getting some sort of difuser or making you own bell to capture the co2


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

gmt980 said:


> It doesnt look like the co2 is diffusing at all. When large bubbles are making it all the way up to the surface, thats bad. I would maybe look into getting some sort of difuser or making you own bell to capture the co2



I agree, I wasn't happy at all with it so I redid the one on the right and added another on the left (both of which have much smaller bubbles now) and have added a third to the filter. The one on the left (3rd picture) bubbles through my moss and then drifts to the right from the current of the filter. Should be working much better.

Mosses are just starting to grow in. Hoping they look a bit better at then end. Battling algae atm but hopefully adding another Co2 unit and lowering my photo period will help a bit. And not to forget the otos. 































Baby mosquito fish are starting to come out of hiding.

















New guy:










Floaters are going crazy:










For my baby mantis when it gets larger and when the orchid grows a bit more.










My 10 gallon which is acting as a plant holding tank and home to the parent mosquito fish


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## demonr6 (Mar 14, 2011)

Shoot me a PM so we can have a dirt discussion.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Low light plant under high light = ?

Faster growth? Does it melt? My moss is recieving a ton of light and doing ok so does that mean crypts and java ferns would be fine as well? 

I'm staggering my lighting with it a bit higher in the front (120w) than the back (88w) and am considering Cabomba caroliniana and Needle Leaf Java Fern for back there and would like to put some crypt parva in the mid ground. Should I have any problems with this? Would my moss be growing faster with less light? 


My otos seems to be acclimating well. Talk about friendly fish, they are playing with my minnows already which I really didn't expect at all.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Kicked the triops out as they were digging too much. They have been relocated to the 10 gal and replaced by ghost shrimp.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

to answer your question about the video converter....
I found this one to be pretty awesome. It's called any video converter.
http://www.any-video-converter.com/products/for_video_free/
Here it is on cnet
http://www.cnet.com/1770-5_1-0.html?query=any+video+converter&tag=srch


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

I would also recommend a solid blue or black background. It will help fish and plants stand out.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Kicked the triops out as they were digging too much.


Seems the look like horsehose crabs and act like them.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Seems the look like horsehose crabs and act like them.


lol. Too true. I have to give them credit though, they are great cleaners - polished all the pebbles in the tank in the first hour or two they were in there. The problem is that they are too proficient. They never stop eating and when they are done cleaning pebbles they move to the sand moving it around like crazy and once done with the sand they just burrow into the substrate deeper. They were eventually getting down to my dirt and tossing it all around the tank  Not to mention their discarded carapaces building up - I swear they molt daily.



kamikazi said:


> to answer your question about the video converter....
> I found this one to be pretty awesome. It's called any video converter.
> http://www.any-video-converter.com/products/for_video_free/
> Here it is on cnet
> http://www.cnet.com/1770-5_1-0.html?query=any+video+converter&tag=srch


Awesome. I'll have to give it a try.



kamikazi said:


> I would also recommend a solid blue or black background. It will help fish and plants stand out.


I was thinking perhaps a transitional light blue. Or maybe just a white background. The gap between the tank and the white wall kills me as the light that reflects off the plants gives the wall a green hue which makes my water and tank look much dirtier than it actually is.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Video Update:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ptx2m8YZGk0

Let me know if the quality is just too poor.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Looks like one of my juvenile mosquito fish is a male. I have two adult females, one juvenile female, one juvenile male and a tiny baby. When the male comes to age if I breed him with the three females how long would it be till I'm totally over run with them? 

Attempting to hatch my killifish eggs.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Attempting to hatch my killifish eggs.


I see you got nothobranchius eggs. You know they don't live long. For they are non-annuals. I would like to know how you are doing this. It is what I want to do in the future.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Hoppy is trying to argue with me that mylar is the worst reflective material out there and aluminum foil one of the best


Agree the mylar is the worst. I tried it and it didn't last even a year. The heat from the bulbs caused the shiny part to come off.

Hoppy has done a lot of research using expensive equipment on lights, thus I tend to take his word. Notice aluminum foil is 1 of the best. Perhaps he is referring to DIY application. For the reflectors, which are machine made, probably last longer.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> I see you got nothobranchius eggs. You know they don't live long. For they are non-annuals. I would like to know how you are doing this. It is what I want to do in the future.


Yes I understand that they only live a short while. I'm hatching according to the instructions I received with my eggs - place in water and wait. The eggs came with a collections date and hatch date so I just waited till the hatch date and place them in water. So far no hatches so I might have to redry and try again in a week. 



Hilde said:


> Agree the mylar is the worst. I tried it and it didn't last even a year. The heat from the bulbs caused the shiny part to come off.
> 
> Hoppy has done a lot of research using expensive equipment on lights, thus I tend to take his word. Notice aluminum foil is 1 of the best. Perhaps he is referring to DIY application. For the reflectors, which are machine made, probably last longer.


I've tested mylar several times with a lux meter and it works quite well (better than foil) when it comes to large reflective surfaces - corresponds with every other individual I know to have tested surfaces along with all the specific lighting articles I've read. This doesn't speak for it's wear when in close close proximity to heat sources. Hoppy's tests were by his own admission flawed and yet he encourages others to follow his guidance. His comparisons and charts are based on multiple independent variable tests that hold little if any relevance. He has taken the position of a lighting expert although it is quite obvious he is not and I find that slightly concerning. 

I think Hoppy tries to be as helpful as he can and that's an awesome quality so props to him over and over but I would take his lighting advice and charts with a generous pinch of salt. 

Not to worry though - I signed up to the local coral club as they are the only ones in town with a PAR meter and should have some photo comparisons to upload soon. I'll be testing the PAR of my tank along with the PAR of a high quality HID reflector with the following finishes: high polished dimpled aluminum, white paper, white paint (titanium white), tin foil, and mylar. I might also throw in unpolished aluminum sheeting if I can get it into the exact same shape. I wish this forum relied on lux versus PAR. If you know whether A is brighter than B and you know the spectral output of your bulb then lux measurements work just as well as PAR measurements and the meters are so much cheaper. We should also keep in mind that not all PAR is equal. 300x par of 410nm isn't equal to 300x par of 660nm... Plants do not use all frequencies of PAR equally which means means a lower PAR set-up that has a better ratio of spectrum can offer the plants more usable energy than a higher PAR set-up with a poor spectral output. 

Top left Aluminum foil, Top right mylar, bottom left white tag board, bottom right white paint. All of these are mounted on white tag board and will fit into my polished aluminum reflector to form the same curvature. 



















Same test I've done with a lux meter but lets see if for some reason it differs with a PAR meter. But hey, if I'm wrong that would be great. Aluminum foil is quite a bit easier to work with than mylar.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> I just waited till the hatch date and place them in water.


No peat? I have read someone had put them in peat.


ReluctantHippy said:


> Plants do not use all frequencies of PAR equally which means means a lower PAR set-up that has a better ratio of spectrum can offer the plants more usable energy than a higher PAR set-up with a poor spectral output.


I have been thinking that the spectrum is more important. For I use Coralife-T5NO which has a low par and Life-glo T8 over my tank. I have been growing plants told I can't grow with the light.


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## ElectricBlue (Jun 29, 2011)

First page of this thread makes me shiver. 


Leak testing a tank on what looks to be concrete - Disaster waiting to happen.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> No peat? I have read someone had put them in peat.
> 
> I have been thinking that the spectrum is more important. For I use Coralife-T5NO which has a low par and Life-glo T8 over my tank. I have been growing plants told I can't grow with the light.


The eggs came in damp peat so the peat is in the bowls with the water. I didn't have to add it though. So far nothing. I might have to dry em up and wait another week to try again. 

Spectrum really matters - From my observations a 600w and even a 400w HID with a good bulb can easily outgrow a 1kW HID with a bad bulb.



ElectricBlue said:


> First page of this thread makes me shiver.
> 
> 
> Leak testing a tank on what looks to be concrete - Disaster waiting to happen.


I'm new to dealing with tanks... Please explain? Is it just the worry of dropping it? The bottom and top are both lined with heavy plastic so I was pretty sure it wouldn't chip any of the edges and the surface of the concrete is smooth enough and the bottom of the tank raised enough that no pebble could touch the bottom of the tank. 

I don't have grass and I needed to clean the tank outdoors, should I use wooden horses next time? Throw down some cardboard?


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## ElectricBlue (Jun 29, 2011)

You need to get you a piece of foam insulation board that is used on the exterior of houses during construction to insulate the house. 


Problem with leak testing an aquarium on bare concrete is that if the concrete has the slightest imperfection in it, your aquarium is going to feel it and is very possible it could crack. 

If you lay down something soft that gives like a piece of insulation board, the imperfection will fit into the foam board while your aquarium stays flat. 


If you build your own stand, i recommend putting down a piece of insulation board on top of the stand before you set your aquarium on the stand. 
Just in case 1 top corner of the stand is a fraction of an inch taller then another corner.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

ElectricBlue said:


> You need to get you a piece of foam insulation board that is used on the exterior of houses during construction to insulate the house.
> 
> 
> Problem with leak testing an aquarium on bare concrete is that if the concrete has the slightest imperfection in it, your aquarium is going to feel it and is very possible it could crack.
> ...


Great info, thanks.

That twenty gallons rim keeps the bottom of the tank about 1/2" off the ground so with a good sweep it should be fine on smooth concrete - my 40b is a bit different though so if I ever stick it outside to clean it I'll make sure to put it on something; same goes if I'm ever putting it on a non flat surface. 

Do you cut the insulation foam to fit into the inside footprint of the bottom rim or lay the rim on the foam as well? If the rim sits on the foam it seems like it might be a bit ugly but if the rim doesn't sit on the foam then it's not doing much to level the tank. I saw someone doing this - perhaps I can find the thread.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

I think I'm going to give up on the HC. Most of the smaller pieces I had going have been vacuumed up while combating algae and the larger pieces haven't grown all that much. Shame because it was going nuts when I was growing it dry. 

The grass, glosso, baby tears, and riccia are going nuts though so I think I'll just carpet everything in that. My moss is showing alot of growth and looking much better and my algae is starting to go away - thank the lord. Should start looking like the rolling hills of California pretty soon 

Should be adding several more ottos and quite a few more shrimp soon. 




















































If anyone needs floaters let me know. I've been composting mine as I have way too many. Looking to get rid of all of these: 


















Is there any way baby trout could survive in an 85+ temp tank? My 'minnows' keep growing...


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## nchumley (Mar 29, 2010)

Very nice eye for landscaping, keep updating us!


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

I've got killifish.  Tried hatching for the second time last night and have about a half dozen that have hatched so far. They are TINY! Started hatching brine shrimp this morning so hopefully I'll have some fattened up to take pictures of in no time.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Added a couple more shrimp and 9 tetras. Have a few baby killifish as well as a baby molly or guppy that stowed aboard with my shrimp. 

Everything seems to be doing great. I have a little algae left but nothing unsightly and all of the plants seem to be flourishing. I also seem to have a few unknown plants that stowed away with my initial plant order. 









































































Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yi_lG3OW-OU

Oh, and I found out my "minnows" are California Roach. Well pretty sure at least.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Killifish update - 

So I know that of the 6 in my initial hatching 4 are still alive but three of those have barely grown while the other has quadrupled or more in size. Should start the second hatching soon. 

Here are a couple shots of the largest - starting to show color if you ask me.


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## 2in10 (Feb 8, 2011)

Beautiful tank and design. Congrats on the hatch.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

2in10 said:


> Beautiful tank and design. Congrats on the hatch.


Thank you. 

It seems to be pulling together. I'm thinking I need something in the back though. I should have probably sloped it up towards the back...


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Congrats on the killifish. Read that most put methylene blue in the container with killifish eggs to prevent eggs from getting destroyed by fungus. Seems you didn't do this and still had no problem with the eggs?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Congrats on the killifish. Read that most put methylene blue in the container with killifish eggs to prevent eggs from getting destroyed by fungus. Seems you didn't do this and still had no problem with the eggs?


Thanks!

Fungus during hatching periods or storage periods? When I first opened the small container there was a single fuzzy egg that I removed and so far haven't seen any others. Peat is pretty sterile so as long as I keep the humidity correct I think I should be fine. 

I'm completely new to killifish though so maybe I just got real lucky.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Started my second real hatch and so far (a couple hours in) have three more baby killifish.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

It's been one and a half months since planting. Thinking I might add another tree towards the back - would be a bit to the right and lower down that it is now. Not sure if it'll just crowd it up too much so I'll let it sit there for a while while I make up my mind. 
























Progression:


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Peat is pretty sterile so as long as I keep the humidity correct I think I should be fine.


How do you do that? How do you test the humidity?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> How do you do that? How do you test the humidity?


Well you could use a humidity gauge - they are really cheap. If you pick one up let me know and I'll tell you what to aim for. 

Personally I have a bit of experience using peat with germinating seeds and incubating lizard eggs; ideal dampness for these seems to be the same as for fish eggs - not wet or they mold and can't breath, not dry or they wither up. Slightly damp and you get great airflow...

I had at least 6 killies hatch from my second attempt and the peat is drying again as we speak. I seem to do well hatching them but only one of my babies seems to be growing. The rest are alive but don't seem to be changing much. Could brine shrimp be to big?


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> Well you could use a humidity gauge - they are really cheap. If you pick one up let me know and I'll tell you what to aim for. Not wet or they mold and can't breath, not dry or they wither up.
> 
> The rest are alive but don't seem to be changing much. Could brine shrimp be to big?


I had plants that needed to be kept like that and I killed them. My reason for starting a planted aquarium. I will try to find a humidity gauge.

Here is something I read that may help them grow:
Infusoria
Created by soaking substances in boiled water for several weeks. Substances are: banana peels, potato peels, lettuce, cabbage, spinach, and dried tree leaves in spring water.

Put scalded lettuce leaves in jar, enough to cover the bottom of the jar . Add water that is almost boiling to fill the jar about 3/4 of the way full. Leave this standing, uncovered for 24 hours. Then add about 1oz of old aquarium water and cover the jar. After 1 week days, the water should have growth of infusoria. Every 10 days add a piece of scalded lettuce

Also here is one whom is breeding killifish and had similar problem


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> I had plants that needed to be kept like that and I killed them. My reason for starting a planted aquarium. I will try to find a humidity gauge.
> 
> Here is something I read that may help them grow:
> Infusoria
> ...



You're always coming to my rescue. Thanks a ton! Dumped a buncha scuzzi water plants in with the killies and will start making some infusoria. 



Decided I didn't like wasting all my DIY CO2 wash so I've been 'refining' it and enjoying it. Tastes horrible though so I took a trip to the local feed store and picked up a 50lb bucket of molasses. Molasses provides a much more consistent source of CO2, much more pleasant bi-product, and at $20 for 50lbs its almost cheaper than sugar. Curious as to why more people don't opt for this...I guess feed/Ag stores aren't everywhere.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Video Update: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nIysWfTOT_A


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Update:

Added 20 red crystal shrimp which initially I thought were all eaten but are now popping up all over and seem to be doing very well. 

I have a beautiful male killi that was the only survivor of my hatching attempt. He's a blast to watch and is constantly nibbling on things and darting into the plants - by far the most active and curious fish in the tank. 

I believe I have baby ghost shrimp in the tank now as well.

Really hard to get a good picture of the killi but here are some attempts (they really don't do him justice):






























Shrimp:























Tank - I need to touch it up a bit, my riccia rocks have grown so large that they are lifting off the ground.


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## 10gallonplanted (Oct 31, 2010)

That tank is baaalllinn. Thats like the perfect shrimp tank.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


>


So what happened to the clover ground cover plant in this tank?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> So what happened to the clover ground cover plant in this tank?


Did it's seasonal thing. Grew out, the weed flowered and then died, and the ground cover did pretty much the same. Still need to rescape it and I used the wood reserved for it's top to make a chicken coop - oops. 










Did I post pictures of my tiny tiny baby mantis earlier? She's growing up fast and so is the bamboo orchid in her tank:










I have another mantis now so I'll need to start a second similar one - perhaps different plants.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Found an unexpected guest hatching out of my tank today.

















Real champ of a damselfly for surviving in a tank full of mosquito fish.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Trim. 

Before:

















After - completely removed one of the 'trees' moss and replaced with fresh moss from a different tank. 
























Redid my smaller tank with all of the riccia


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

Looked like a desert in the beginning. If you hadn't trimmed it so much you could have renamed it the grassy plains.

What was that light again please. What ferts are you dosing?


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Looked like a desert in the beginning. If you hadn't trimmed it so much you could have renamed it the grassy plains.
> 
> What was that light again please. What ferts are you dosing?


I went pretty extreme on the trim. Not sure what that plant is that took over but it was doubling in size almost daily. Everything has been growing off the charts - wouldn't be surprised if it all grew back in three weeks. 

I'm not dosing anything. All nutrients are coming from the soil I put in. Slightly amended Happy Frog organic potting soil with local river silt, clay, and sand. 

The hood/lights are DIY - cost me $10 total including the bulbs to make (wood was on hand). The bulbs are 4x23w and 4x16w, 50% 6500K and 50% 5500K. If I wanted I could add another 4 bulbs - I find it not necessary. 

















Front and back have angled aluminum reflectors. The back set are adjustable in case I want to change the cast pattern and spotlight a particular area. 










Looks a bit sloppy but works like a charm - and the outside isn't terrible to look at. I have a section somewhere for the back gap but generally don't bother with it.


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## Hilde (May 19, 2008)

ReluctantHippy said:


> I'm not dosing anything. All nutrients are coming from the soil I put in. Slightly amended Happy Frog organic potting soil with local river silt, clay, and sand.
> 
> The hood/lights are DIY - cost me $10 total including the bulbs to make (wood was on hand). The bulbs are 4x23w and 4x16w,


Not even dosing Excell?

That is a total of 156 watts divided by 20 is 7.8 wpg. You could take out a few bulbs to slow the growth down. Amazed that you don't have algae issues.


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## ReluctantHippy (Jun 23, 2011)

Hilde said:


> Not even dosing Excell?
> 
> That is a total of 156 watts divided by 20 is 7.8 wpg. You could take out a few bulbs to slow the growth down. Amazed that you don't have algae issues.


I have some algae but it seems to hover at a very low level. Looks fairly natural to me so I just let it do it's thing. Luckily I don't have anything that grows on the glass, that would be annoying. 

Every now and then I hook up my DIY CO2 but recently I've been low on sugar and the tank seems to be doing fine without it.


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