# Lighting for 40b Low Tech Tank - Walstad Method



## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

greenrebellion said:


> Hey guys...I searched around on older threads but given how much has changed in the lighting world, I figured I'd make a new post. Also, since my plan is to use a 40B, I am worried about overpowering my tank with light given the shorter height of the tank. Got to find the right balance between too much light and not enough.
> 
> Anyway, just finished the Ecology of the Planted aquarium book and would like to give it a shot. The plants I'll be going with are Vallisneria, Ancharis, Cryp Parva, and Bolbitis Heudelotii. Substrate will be MGOCP w/ blasting sand cap. Fish fully stocked will be 30 cardinals, 2 GBR and a couple of Sterbai corycats.
> 
> ...


2............ for the most part. Getting a stronger light and DIY higher mounting you can get by w/ 1

More importantly, how much do you want to spend and what do you want it to do.. Sit there or change??


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## greenrebellion (Oct 11, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> 2............ for the most part. Getting a stronger light and DIY higher mounting you can get by w/ 1
> 
> More importantly, how much do you want to spend and what do you want it to do.. Sit there or change??



Cost is flexible. I would like to do it right while finding the most cost effective approach. Features like dimming and on/off timers would be great, but it would need to have the flexibility to have a midday light break. Worst case scenario, I can just buy a timer separately, not a big deal.

Oh and will have to be tank mounted so sounds like I will need two lights.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

greenrebellion said:


> but it would need to have the flexibility to have a midday light break.


Actually that is "the most" difficult part..

BUT this controller is flexible, even if you do not choose a BML.
http://www.buildmyled.com/solunar-controller/


> You can create multiple dimming cycles throughout the day, so you can give your plants and corals a 'siesta' during the photoperiod.


controller can do both PWM and 0-10v dimming..Unfortunately they don't mention the voltage of the pulse..


BML lights use 0-10V dimming and only dim down to 10%-ish. You need a separate timer for full off.
One reason I don't often "push" them.. Bugs me..


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## BBradbury (Nov 8, 2010)

Hello green...

Check out shop lighting from the hardware store. Florescent lighting is inexpensive and burns cool so the fixture can sit directly on top of a glass tank cover. A 36 inch 2 or 4 bulb fixture runs 20 to $40.00 including T8, 32 watt, 6500K bulbs. 

B


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## greenrebellion (Oct 11, 2015)

What about two finnex stingrays? They get 21-23 PAR at 18"....I'll probably be more around 15" once accounting for substrate and I'll be running two of them which probably pushes par at substrate to the mid 30's range. 

Worried that mid 30's PAR where the beams cross may be getting a little high...and without the ability to dim may create algae problem.

Anyone have experience with the stingrays and what do you think about running two of them on a 40b?


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## Kobey (Nov 20, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> Actually that is "the most" difficult part..
> 
> BUT this controller is flexible, even if you do not choose a BML.
> SoLunar Controller - Build My LED, LLC
> ...


 
The other thing about BML is they are a much narrow beam and stronger light because of it. For a 18" width tank you would either need to raise it which would probably cause a lot of light spill or get 2 but then turn them way down which at the price point there are better options dollar wise.

12" light to substrate tanks are hard enough to light with good options but given the extra width of the breeders it only gets worse.

One thing I looked at when contemplating the breeder was doing 3x 16" lights across the width instead of 1-2 across the length.

Or do 2x 48" Stingrays with on/off timmers for your specific light cycle and you could off set the timmers to do a 15-minute warmup cool down.

**Edit another option is if the light is too strong to use window screen or a glass top but for a 40g breeder your evaporation will come into play.


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## sevendust111 (Jul 15, 2014)

What about a single Finnex Planted + 24/7 and a timer? The 24/7 has a dimmer if its too much light. Reasonably priced too.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

Do the math..
Even considering the diodes cover 1" front to back.. at 3" off the water line the light cones from the LED's is 10 1/2" inches
you won't cover 18" until you are about 10" away from the light..


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## Tiptop (Apr 15, 2013)

I have really liked the light output on my 60gal from a Current Satellite Plus. The tank dimensions are essentially a 40B, but a foot longer. Crypts, java ferns, willow hygro are all doing well.

With all those nutrients in there, you gotta be really careful with the amount of light you're throwing at it. One thing to consider would be getting one higher-powered fixture to blast the foreground and then a second, lower-power fixture to fill in lighting for the rear of a tank.


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## jeffkrol (Jun 5, 2013)

side view of a 40b w/ a beamswork small emitter fixture (a few inches wider spread than a Finnex actually)
Warren Web Hosting -

you can see the "beam-spread problem"..
aqctually a combination of problems 1)120 degrees at that height is not "good enough" for uniform coverage top-bottom and 2) lenses have a disproportional light falloff from center to edge.


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## greenrebellion (Oct 11, 2015)

jeffkrol said:


> side view of a 40b w/ a beamswork small emitter fixture (a few inches wider spread than a Finnex actually)
> Warren Web Hosting -
> 
> you can see the "beam-spread problem"..
> aqctually a combination of problems 1)120 degrees at that height is not "good enough" for uniform coverage top-bottom and 2) lenses have a disproportional light falloff from center to edge.


Helpful, thanks. Definitely going to need two fixtures then if I can't hang something above the tank.


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