# IceCap 660 ballast and 2x24w or 3x24w T5 HO lighting in 37g



## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

What a sweet ballast/reflector/bulb combo you've got! I think that 2-24w will be plenty (considering the quality of the components), but I may be wrong...

That thing is fully dimmable and will drive 440 watts...sweet!


----------



## zapus (May 26, 2004)

An Icecap 660 is going to push 2 x 24w extremely hard,depending upon how you wire it. I ran one on a 4 x 20w T12 setup and the results could only be described as blinding. Bulb life averaged about 6 months using a (now unfortunately defunct) IceCast dimmer. I managed to melt a couple of sets of the Icecap endcaps with this setup (No cooling fans). The tubes would get too hot for anything other than momentary contact with skin. My 660 is currently pushing a 4 x 40w T12 setup over my 90 gallon. I would consider it to be in the medium-to-high range for this size tank (not really enough light for HC on the bottom of the tank). I like using T12's because they are relatively less expensive and are available in a wide variety of color temperatures and spectra. I am currently using 2 of the original Gro-Lux and 2 of the Wide Spectrum Gro-Lux tubes. I really like the Icecap ballast, mine has been going strong for over 10 years now. Icecap has a support forum over at reefcentral.com if you have any questions about wiring, etc. I bought a Solar 750 dimmer to replace my IceCast, I was less than impressed by it and never installed it (it required splicing into the Icecap wiring harness among other things, whereas the IceCast had a plug that went between the IceCap harness and the ballast). There seems to be a rather high level of complaints over at reefcentral regarding this dimmer as well.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I bought the 660 used, but in good shape for about 1/3 of the price of a new one. It came with all the wiring, but the heat sink is missing and there are no instructions with the unit.

Would someone know where that I could find the instructions for it? I cannot find anything on IceCap's site. I've found many places that have the heat sink for sale,

I've learned that the 660 is dimmable, but that's all I know. I haven't been able to find the IceCap dimmer for sale anywhere. Where could I get one? Does it just dim all the bulbs or are you able to dim each bulb separately?

I've found the wiring diagrams at IceCap showing how to wire 2, 3 or 4 bulbs. The instructions say to cap off any unused wires. I have no idea about how to OD the bulbs. How do I do this?
http://www.icecapinc.com/document2.pdf

On the opposite that the wiring harness in a plug in marked I/O. What's that?

I'm sorry for such rookie questions.

Thanks for the link to http://reefcentral.com/. I'm headed over there now.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Thanks for the idea about the dimmer ColeMan and zapus. That's a nice feature.

zapus, when you mentioned IceCast, I read it as Ice Cap.  

I found some good info about the IceCast. I wish that it was still made. http://www.premiumaquatics.com/thestore/prods/ICECAST.html

My security package will not let me register at reefcentral.com. I've going to figure this out. The was a major security upgrade last week and things are a bit goofy.

Do you guys know about the BlueLine Solar 1000 L1 Dimmer? Is it a plug in piece or do you have to splice wires. Is it worth a hoot?
http://www.bluelineaquatics.com/products/dimmer/1000.html
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merc...oduct_Code=SOLAR1000-L1&Category_Code=Dimmers
http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=17466&cat=0&page=1

Thanks


----------



## SPC (Jan 14, 2008)

Good morning, Left C.



Left C said:


> I bought the 660 used, but in good shape for about 1/3 of the price of a new one. It came with all the wiring, but the heat sink is missing and there are no instructions with the unit.
> 
> Would someone know where that I could find the instructions for it? I cannot find anything on IceCap's site. I've found many places that have the heat sink for sale.


All of the instructions should be on the Icecap site. If there is something that you need to know that is not on their site, call them, they are very nice people to deal with.

I have run these ballasts (and do currently on my T5 set up) for about 7 years now. I have had zero problems with their products and their customer service is the best.

You may not need the heat sink as the ballast does not run hot. Try running the lights for a while and see what you think before purchasing this. 

*I've learned that the 660 is dimmable, but that's all I know. I haven't been able to find the IceCap dimmer for sale anywhere. Where could I get one? Does it just dim all the bulbs or are you able to dim each bulb separately?*

It will dim each ballast. 

*I've found the wiring diagrams at IceCap showing how to wire 2, 3 or 4 bulbs. The instructions say to cap off any unused wires. I have no idea about how to OD the bulbs. How do I do this?
http://www.icecapinc.com/document2.pdf*

The ballast will automatically OD the bulbs. These ballasts are made to run VHO lights. My current set up uses 4' t5 bulbs which are rated at 54W but the Icecap ballast drives them to around 80 watts.

*Do you guys know about the BlueLine Solar 1000 L1 Dimmer? Is it a plug in piece or do you have to splice wires. Is it worth a hoot?*

This is what replaced the Icecast. It is good quality from what I have read on the reef forums over the years. At one time there was a problem with it not dimming some lights properly but a simple piece of tinfoil placed across the bulbs seemed to rectify this. 

It used to have to be spliced in but I don't know if this still is the case.

Champion Lighting was the sole distributer for this product, so any information should be found on their site.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Thanks for the great info, SPC.

I'm glad to hear about the good quality of the 660 and the great customer support at IceCap.

So, the 660 automatically OD's the bulbs, that's great to know. Two OD 24w T5's over a 37g should be enough, then.

I like the idea of the dimmer. That way the lights are not very bright when they come on. I know that this can spook the fish. Shoot ... it would spook me too. It's $300 and it will have to wait until next month's mad money.

I emailed IceCap for the instructions. I could not find them on their site.

I'm good to go with the wiring.

I found the Solar 1000 L1 Dimmer at two sites. One is http://www.premiumaquatics.com/ and the other is http://www.championlighting.com/

I meant to post both of them, but I posted two links the Premium Aquatic by mistake.

Solar 1000 L1 Dimmer Settings

All Day








Max Day











Again, thanks guys for the great information.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Dimming is out. I got the following message this morning from BlueLine Aquatics:

"The dimmers do not work with T5 lamps, only VHO lamps. 

Spencer
BlueLine Aquatics
www.bluelineaquatics.com "


----------



## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

that is a bummer. man...sorry to hear that.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I already had a plan so that I would have $300 so that I could get one next month too. Bummer.


----------



## thefishmanlives (May 20, 2008)

on the bright side, your going to have a sweet lighting setup. 24x2 OD'd should get plenty of light to the bottom of that tall 37. Me personally, Id rather have the shorter bulb life and high wattage. 6 months isnt that bad, it also gives you a reason to mess around with different bulbs. Then when you find good prices on ones you like you stock up. If I had T5s instead of MH Id love to try those GE starcoats or the giessman middays. Plus I hear the powerglo pink bulbs really bring out the reds. Id try one starcoat along with a pink bulb.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Thanks!

I guess the Powerglo Pink T5 bulbs are somewhat like the 9325K PC's in the way that they make the aquarium look.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I can’t use a dimmer, but I have an idea about how to have dimmer lighting using 3 x 24w T5 HO bulbs, 2 ballasts and timers.

I can wire two bulbs to the IceCap 660 ballast and one bulb to a WORK HORSE 3 ballast. 

This is what my idea is in simple terms. For wpg, let's use 24w for the bulb with the WORK HORSE 3 Ballast and 80w for the 2 24w bulbs with the 660 ballast.
Sunrise – 1 x 24w (2 hours - 0.6 wpg - 1 x Aquaflora bulb)
Morning – 2 x 24w {overdriven to 2 x 40w} (3 hours - 2.2 wpg - 2 x Midday bulbs)
Noon Burst – 3 x 24w (2 hours - 2.8 wpg from 1 x 24w Aquaflora bulb + 2 x 24w Midday bulbs overdriven to 40w each)
Afternoon – 2 x 24w {overdriven to 2 x 40w} (3 hours - 2.2 wpg - 2 x Midday bulbs)
Sunset – 1 x 24w (2 hours - 0.6 wpg - 1 x Aquaflora bulb)
Night – all T5's off (12 hours) - use lunar lights

More details - I can set the timers and bulbs like this:
Sunrise – turn on the 1 x 24w bulb with the WORK HORSE 3 ballast
Morning – turn off the 1 x 24w bulb with the WORK HORSE 3 ballast and cut on the 2 x 24w bulbs with the 660 ballast 
Noon Burst – all 3 x 24w bulbs are on
Afternoon – leave the 2 x 24w bulbs with the 660 ballast on and turn the 1 x 24w bulb with the WORK HORSE 3 ballast off
Sunset – turn off the 2 x 24w bulbs with the 660 ballast and turn on the 1 x24w bulb with the WORK HORSE 3 ballast 
Night – all 3 x 24w bulbs are off and lunar lights are on


It's almost like the following diagram, but my lights come on and off in steps and not gradual increases and decreases in lighting like the picture shows.












What do you think?


EDIT: Please note that I added more details.


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

dam a 660 icecap ballast on two 24" bulbs...that gonna be alot of light! i would deff have active cooling in the hood, prolongs bulb life. but even with that ur still overdriving the bulbs, im curious to see how long they will last. 

ur lighting schedule looks good. i like it when ur able to simulate sunrise/sunset. you should add some blue LEDs for the moonlight.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

youareafever said:


> dam a 660 icecap ballast on two 24" bulbs...that gonna be alot of light! i would deff have active cooling in the hood, prolongs bulb life. but even with that ur still overdriving the bulbs, im curious to see how long they will last.


I got a really good deal on the 660 ballast on eBay. I believe that 3 x24w T5's and the 660 ballast will be too much light.

Reef Geek sells a 4 x24w T5 Kit with a 660 ballast. The call it VHO T5.
http://www.reefgeek.com/manufacture...y_High-Output_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_IceCap

They also have 2 x 24w T5 kit with a 430 ballast and it's called VHO too.
http://www.reefgeek.com/manufacture...y_High-Output_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_IceCap

It's odd that the Reef Geek says in the links above that both the 430 and 660 ballasts overdrive the 24w bulbs to ~ 40w. The 660 should be a bit higher.


I'm planning on using either one or two of the IceCap fans. It can get hot in this apartment in the summer when the A/C is off. One or two of the 4" fan(s) may best a better choice than the 3" ones.
4" Variable Speed Fan (50-120 CFM): http://www.reefgeek.com/manufacturer/IceCap/4_inch__Variable_Speed_Fan_(50-120_CFM)__by_IceCap

3" Variable Speed Fan (20-37 CFM) : http://www.reefgeek.com/manufacturer/IceCap/3_inch__Variable_Speed_Fan_(20-37_CFM)__by_IceCap



youareafever said:


> ur lighting schedule looks good. i like it when ur able to simulate sunrise/sunset. you should add some blue LEDs for the moonlight.


I was watching that great All Star baseball game last night and the idea came to me. I know the WORK HORSE 3 ballast will not drive that 24w T5 as bright as the 660 will.


I planning on adding some lunar lights to the canopy. It will probably be the ones from Current: http://current-usa.com/lunarlight.html


Thank you very much for your input and help, youareafever.

Left C

PS: I really like that song "Fever."
http://youtube.com/watch?v=JGb5IweiYG8
http://youtube.com/watch?v=0yvHWyvexZ


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

i had a 4" ice cap fan, idk if its just mine or what but that thing was really loud.


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

i heard that song before, but i think it was that mike buble that sang it....i like her version better just cuz its a women singing it now.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

youareafever said:


> i heard that song before, but i think it was that mike buble that sang it....i like her version better just cuz its a women singing it now.


I've never heard Michael Bublé's version before: http://youtube.com/watch?v=5u-9l03UU0g

Did you check out the Muppet Show version link?


----------



## SPC (Jan 14, 2008)

Left C said:


> It's odd that the Reef Geek says in the links above that both the 430 and 660 ballasts overdrive the 24w bulbs to ~ 40w. The 660 should be a bit higher.http://


The 660 and 430 ballasts drive the lamps the same wattage. The only difference between them is that the 660 can drive more bulbs than the 430.
Steve


----------



## ColeMan (Mar 9, 2008)

your photoperiod will be really nice - I like the fact that you have control over 3 separate bulbs to gently up the intensity...the next best thing to a dimmable ballast.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

SPC said:


> The 660 and 430 ballasts drive the lamps the same wattage. The only difference between them is that the 660 can drive more bulbs than the 430.
> Steve


Thanks.

I was wondering why both kits rated the 24" watt bulbs at 40w when they are overdriven.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

ColeMan said:


> your photoperiod will be really nice - I like the fact that you have control over 3 separate bulbs to gently up the intensity...the next best thing to a dimmable ballast.


I'm glad that you saw my post and you like the idea. I was just getting ready to PM you about it.

The canopy that I purchased has three 3 7/16" slabs across the top. Three bulbs should work out great.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I just purchased a 4 ¾” (120 mm) Ice Cap variable speed fan that uses a probe to sense the temperature to control the speed of the fan to inside the canopy.
http://www.icecapinc.com/fans.htm

I’m new to canopies and fans and I have some questions.
- Would 1 fan be OK or should I use 2?
- I’m planning on mounting 1 or 2 on the back of the canopy. The back of the canopy is open and it will be easy to install. Would this work OK? The canopy is 30” long and the reflectors are 23” long. There’s 3 ½” of open area on each end of the canopy.
- Many fans are mounted on the sides of the canopy. I would have to drill a hole(s) on the side(s) for the fan(s). Would this be better?

Please note that 2 of the three 24w T5's will be over driven with an IceCap ballast to ~ 40 watts each and the other 24w T5 will not be over driven. When all 3 T5 bulbs are on, that's a totat of ~ 104 watts.

Thanks


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

fan placement to me, has been one of the debatable subjects that really depends on how you see it. people argue that blowing air directly at the bulb can lead to over cooling which in turn can cause a shift in the color spectrum. but at the same time alot of people will tell you that they achieved the best results by blowing air directly across the bulbs. ive heard that the key to a cooling system is not to target the bulbs but the ballast. but if it were me i'd just place the fans on top of the hood blowing air out as hot air tends to rise and cool air can be drawn in from the canopy edges.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Hum ... I didn't think about mounting them on the top.

The distance between the 3 7/16" slabs is 1 1/2". Do you think that mounting fan(s) on top would work without cutting the slabs? The fans are 4 3/4" square.

The smaller fan is ~ 3 3/16".

These are the specs:
- 3 3/16" fan ... 20 to 37 CFM
- 4 7/16" fan ... 50 to 102 CFM

http://www.icecapinc.com/fans.htm


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

i think the slabs will cut down the fans effectiveness alot. if it dosent affect the structural integrity of the canopy i would cut through the slabs. but if it does then ill look for another way to mount the fans.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

Thanks

I'll look at the fan when it gets here. It should be here in a day or two.

The 4 3/4" fan is too tall to be used on the sides of the fixture. The smaller one would work on the sides.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

UV Lighting has an interesting 10,000 Aquasun variable output T5. It is claimed that its color will not shift when running at HO levels and overdriven to VHO levels. The color spectrum has only a tiny amount of red in it with a lot of blue and green. 










More links:
http://www.uvlco.com/t5vho.htm
http://www.mops.ca/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/skus/li/LIUR-F24AQ.asp?L+scstore+fkxj6621ff648164+1218161924
http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...oduct~UF5221~idCategory~FILTBUT5VH~tab~0.html


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

i use that bulb over my reef.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I wonder how it would work with planted aquariums.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Left C said:


> UV Lighting has an interesting 10,000 Aquasun variable output T5. It is claimed that its color will not shift when running at HO levels and overdriven to VHO levels. The color spectrum has only a tiny amount of red in it with a lot of blue and green.


I'd think that would really wash out all the warm colors in a tank (reds, yellows, oranges...) but would probably make any blues and neons gorgeous. I'd probably combine it with a pink bulb if you want to go for it.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

lauraleellbp said:


> I'd think that would really wash out all the warm colors in a tank (reds, yellows, oranges...) but would probably make any blues and neons gorgeous. I'd probably combine it with a pink bulb if you want to go for it.


You know what we have coming and I am just wondering.

I'm going to be overdriving the Midday bulbs and I'm wondering about a possible color shift.

The UV Lighting bulb supposedly doesn't change colors from HO to VHO. It is not exactly the color spectrum that I'm looking for, but it might work with an aquarium having all green plants.

Many people on this forum like 10,000K bulbs, but I have never been a big fan of them. This UV Lighting bulb has 3 spikes in the green part of the color spectrum. It might make the green colors pop out. There's no doubt that it would make the violet and blue colors pop and it would wash out the red colors somewhat. It does have a spike in the orange region.

Marine Depot says: http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...oduct~UF5221~idCategory~FILTBUT5VH~tab~0.html
*Description* 
- 10000° Kelvin Temperature 
- Best used for fresh & saltwater tanks adding vital photosynthesis 
- Unique blend of tri-band phosphors & high color rendering 
- Useful life: 4500 hours.


----------



## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

I'll be really interested to see if you like it. I'm definitely eager to try out the new Giesemann bulbs in different combos with my bulbs. I've got 3 spectrums ATM to play with (actinic, 10k, and 18k), and I think I might get a few more to try out... This is going to be fun!


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I saw your response about the Power-Glo bulbs. I tried to find the color spectrum, but I couldn't find one.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

I have a lighting timer question. 

Is there a precision timer available for a reasonable cost that will do what is quoted below?

In simple terms, this is what I want it to do. There are six steps to control three sets of lights.

Step 1
Lunar – off
A – on
B – off

Step 2
A - off
B – on

Step 3
A – on
B – on

Step 4
A – off
B – on

Step 5
A – on
B – off

Step 6
A - off
B – off
Lunar – on


Using 3 different timers would probably cause gaps or overlaps. It’s OK with the Lunar light, but I wouldn’t that to happen with lights A and B. 

Any ideas?





Left C said:


> I can’t use a dimmer, but I have an idea about how to have dimmer lighting using 3 x 24w T5 HO bulbs, 2 ballasts and timers.
> 
> I can wire two bulbs to the IceCap 660 ballast and one bulb to a WORK HORSE 3 ballast.
> 
> ...


----------



## youareafever (Mar 18, 2008)

i dont know of one on the market right now but my aqua c can do that no problem...maybe you will get lucky over at ebay.


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

youareafever said:


> i dont know of one on the market right now but my aqua c can do that no problem...maybe you will get lucky over at ebay.


Thanks.

Neptune AquaController Jr, Serial,Temp, pH, DC-8, Cable: http://cgi.ebay.com/Neptune-AquaCon...VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247


----------



## SPC (Jan 14, 2008)

Left C said:


> I'm going to be overdriving the Midday bulbs and I'm wondering about a possible color shift.[quote/]
> 
> This is what I have been running on my Ice Cap ballasts for the last several months. I like the color and the plants are growing very well.
> 
> Steve


----------



## Left C (Nov 15, 2003)

SPC said:


> Left C said:
> 
> 
> > I'm going to be overdriving the Midday bulbs and I'm wondering about a possible color shift.
> ...


Thanks for the imformation, Steve.


----------

