# Is the Planted+ or Planted+ 24/7 too much light?



## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

Is there a definitive answer on this? I hear it's too much light, then I read it's low/medium. Which is it? 
I have a 36 g bowfront that until yesterday had a Planted+ sitting directly on top of tank for 7 hr photoperiod. I just got the 24/7 yesterday and I'm using the 24/7 setting. It is about 3" above tank. I dose Excel at Seachem's recommendation. I've definitely had algae problems. Tank had been running since Oct '14. Algae is diatoms and that other brown algae whose name escapes me right this moment. 

*Can anyone tell me if this is too much light for this setup?*

36 g bowfront (~17" from light to substrate) 
Seachem Excel
Seachem N, K, Flourish

Parameters:
NH4: 0
NO2: 0
NO3: 20ish
PO4: 1
Ph: 7.4
GH: 6
KH: 3

Substrate: mineralized topsoil capped with Fluorite Black Sand. 
Plenty of water flow provided by AquaClear 70 HOB and a powerhead.


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## HolyAngel (Oct 18, 2010)

according to this post:
http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/forumapc/attachment.php?attachmentid=19869&d=1386296272

The regular 36" Planted+ is around 68 par at 18"... and the planted+ 24/7 should be pretty much the same give or take 5 or so par. 

Either way, just one of either fixture would most likely require pressurized co2 or you have algae fest :/ 
Best I could say would be to dim the fixture a bit.. Maybe the scaling of the 24/7 mode would allow you to not need pressurized co2 but I kinda doubt it.


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## DHElder (Apr 18, 2015)

Making sure I understand. Are you saying you just switched lights yesterday and you suddenly have algae problems? 

The Planted + falls in the medium light range at the rated value. The 24/7 falls more in the low/medium light range. It doesn't put out light at a constant PAR value on 24/7 mode. It's constantly changing from low to high back to low again. For the 30" light, the average PAR value at 16" over 9 hours is 40 PAR with 65 Par occurring at 3PM. That average is close to low light. Max Par for the light is around 68 if you don't use the 24/7 mode and put in a timer instead. At 10" depth for my 20 gallon long, the average PAR will be about 55 PAR, so higher medium light ouput for me versus your tank at 17".

The Plant + would provided a constant 68 par for 7 hours on a timer. So I'd say the Planted + is at the higher end of medium light and the Plant + 24/7 is at the lower end of the medium light at 16" if you use the 24/7 mode, same as Plant + if you put it on a timer.

Bump: Looked up the causes for diatoms as a lot of this is new to me. Looks like low light is one possible cause but no idea how fast this type of algae would appear.

From http://www.aquascapingworld.com/algaepedia/full_view_algae.php?item_id=79

Brown Diatoms usually appear when an newly setup aquarium has finished the nitrogen cycle process, low amounts of light, excess silica/silicates from tap water sources, excess nitrates, and/or poor aquarium maintenance. Diatoms appear especially when there are excess silicates and excess phosphates in the aquarium, which favors diatoms over other types of “lower” alga such as blue-green/slime algae or cyanobacteria. If conditions are left unresolved, other types of algae may begin to develop.

*Removal Tips*

Manual Removal

While doing a water change, wipe aquarium glass, and clean out filters. Brown diatom algae are easily removed with a paper towel or soft sponge. 

Adjusting Photoperiod

Brown Diatom algae do well in low light conditions. Increasing the photoperiod gradually will prevent the diatoms from taking a foothold in your aquarium. Do not exceed 10-12 hours a day as these conditions will favor diatoms as well.

Chemical Removal

There are chemical products (such as Algone) that will neutralize silicates and phosphates. However typically you do not need to employ these methods since Brown Diatoms will disappear after cleaning and regular water changes.

Nutrients and Circulation

Reduce amount of nitrogen sources including fertilizers and fish food. In addition, if you have a heavily silicate composition in your tap water, if available, Reverse Osmosis (RO) system will prevent silicate and phosphates from entering the aquarium. There is aquarium equipment called Diatom filters which also help remove diatoms from your aquarium.


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## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

Thank you very much for the useful information! No, I didn't just start having the algae problem after switching lights. It's been an ongoing problem. I like the 24/7 a lot as I have to be at work early and generally go to bed early. This light solves the problem of having to turn all the living area lights on just to feed my fish in the morning. I don't want to shock them by having the aquarium light turn on so early. I was simulating sunrise with the living area lamps.

I do see more opinions stating that the light is low/medium rather than high. I was getting very confused as to why there was such different opinions. 

I had always thought diatoms were a low light algae, as I always seemed to have them years ago in non-planted aquariums with standard aquarium kit lights. Hence, my confusion about the planted+ and 24/7 being high light.

There is a chance the algae may be Rhizoclonium. I read that this can be caused by low nutrients and poor circulation, so I have added a Hydor Koralia circulation pump. Figured it can't hurt and the fish seem to like it. I'm just trying desperately to get this tank in balance!


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## Mikeygmzmg (Mar 19, 2015)

I have the original planted + on my 10 gallon and since it's not dimmable I had to put some small squares of electric tape over center strip. I spaced them 2 or 3 inches apart. Even with high co2 levels I was getting mass algae. It didn't help that I couldn't raise the light up due to a canopy, but anywho.... my method worked.

If you have the new one, just dim it down a bit.


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## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

That's an interesting solution! I will try that. Really don't want window screen on top my tank as others do. I really like a top less tank.


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## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

I don't have any green algae at all. Would high light (or low CO2) cause brown algae? (Diatoms and Rhizoclonium)


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## DHElder (Apr 18, 2015)

GadgetGirl said:


> I don't have any green algae at all. Would high light (or low CO2) cause brown algae? (Diatoms and Rhizoclonium)



Brown Diatoms usually appear when an newly setup aquarium has finished the nitrogen cycle process, low amounts of light, excess silica/silicates from tap water sources, excess nitrates, and/or poor aquarium maintenance. Diatoms appear especially when there are excess silicates and excess phosphates in the aquarium, which favors diatoms over other types of “lower” alga such as blue-green/slime algae or cyanobacteria. If conditions are left unresolved, other types of algae may begin to develop.

I'm still new to all this so spending most of time just researching subjects like above. Still waiting to get my tank up and running to see how it will go.


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## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

That's what I thought too. But this tank has been setup since October, nitrates are 10-20, phosphates are 1, and I change 50% water every Sunday with light vacuuming of substrate surface. Don't know about silica. No low light here either, as I have the Finnex 24/7. It's a brown slimy coating on plant leaves.


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## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

Update: I have finally just given up on this brown slime as it has smothered many of my plants. 3 weeks ago I tore the tank down and treated all the plants in a container with peroxide. I set the tank back up with eco complete substrate, dilute EI dosing and osmocote gel caps. I placed electrical tape over every 3rd LED set.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Diatoms will go away! Give it time. I know they have a bad stigma, but CAEs decimated my Diatoms in the first planted tank I ever set up.


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## GadgetGirl (Oct 11, 2013)

I was at my wits end watching all of my plants suffocate. Would the best thing to do be just wait and replace all of the plants afterwards?


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## yellabelly (Mar 24, 2014)

What types of plants? Having nutrient rich topsoil, dosing ferts AND feeding the inhabitants(if any) can be an issue in itself. Testing kits are useless IMO. After having some bad algae myself and getting good test readings I about threw in the towel. I quit testing the water, did regular water changes, added a simple diy co2 setup and i rarely have any algae. Im also feeding 20 catfish (huge bioload). Having the water oxygenated (rippling surface or air pump) helps get rid of many algae types if not injecting co2. Injecting co2 (not just excel or booster) also helps get of algae by forcing the plants to intake more nutrients. Diatoms can be tricky as they feed themselves by eating its dead thus causing a reoccurring cycle. In short, more maintenance, less ferts, same continous photo period, more oxygen or add diy co2. The light is not the issue, i too have a planted plus and only have low light plants now(anubias types and 7 different mosses). Still no algae farm like EVERYONE thinks id would have. Lastly, invest in nerite snails,ottos and amano shrimp


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