# plants stem turning to brown mush



## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

My best guess would be either your light is not producing the par required for those specific plants, or the lack of Co2 is doing the job.


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

CSM+B has iron in it. It's the KH2PO4 that you don't want to dose on the same day as the CSM+B or just iron either.
When I plant stems I use tweezers and pull them into the sub. by holding it from the tip and so on. This might be involved.
But a close up picture of a couple of the leaves/stems of a plant in bad shape may help.
Look at the LED chart on this thread to see that I think your PAR might be low for the plants you have except for the Wisteria.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=184368&highlight=
I think it says about 28-30 ? The Planted+ is said to be just a bit more than the Fugeray.


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## schnebbles (Jan 10, 2015)

I didn't see Excel anywhere - do you dose with it? I dose 1x a day, my tank is about 2 months old but my plants are doing quite well.

I have flourite/eco complete, planted + light - tank is 18" deep. I tried the sag and it kept melting and I trimmed and cut and finally have pulled it. It looked ugly.

Your swords died? I have a melon sword doing fantastic (too good almost!), my water sprite does well, Rotala does well, crypts seem ok...

Forgive me if you have C02 running, lol! good luck, your tank will be very nice when your stuff gets going.


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## steelo27 (Mar 3, 2015)

I also have the Fugeray Planted + on a 55 gallon long. The Fugeray is only low to barely medium light at 19" from subtrate surface to light fixture. And im 19" deep with 3.5" of subtrate. So i would say double your subtrate height first. But even still that will barely make the medium light mark. So i went and ordered me a 48" Odyssea T5 HO fixture with two 54 watt bulbs for $60 to use in conjunction with the Fugeray Planted +. 

Next i would suggest pressurized CO2 injection. Sufficient light being what plants love and need most, second would be CO2. I got a 2L Macro Aqua CO2 system with everything you need for $165 on Amazon. I was skeptical at first but man I tell you I love this thing and it works great.

Last suggestion i would make is smaller but more frequent water changes, at least 20% every 2 weeks. I do 15 to 20% weekly.

Granted im new to having a planted tank, so my plants are no more than 2 weeks old and still have some artificial plants in there while i wait for more live plants to come in. But i can tell you that every single one of my plants pearls with oxygen bubbles covering every leaf every day since i added the CO2 and extra lighting.


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## steelo27 (Mar 3, 2015)

Light and CO2 bud


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## Raymond S. (Dec 29, 2012)

I like to pick out plants by appearance, but in my 10g tanks size is more important.
So I used to get plants that died on me fairly often till I started Googling them before
I bought them to see what parameters they like.
At the beginning of the low tech section is also a list of plants that will grow, even if
slowly in low light.
I think that faster one you have is some form of narrow leaf Hygro. Might explain why 
their on quite a few noxious/invasive plant list.
Considering the supreme quality of pet shop info, I wouldn't just take their word for
what light etc any plant needs.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

Have read through original poster's thread(s) all of it.
OP expressed no desire for CO2 injection so this leaves low tech method and it's fine.
Need to select (search out) plant's that do well with NON CO2 tanks and low to moderate lighting.
Adding the dry mineral salt's once a week with 50% water change monthly is also OK at last known/posted amount's in my view.
Must be something else hampering growth besides obvious lack of CO2 enhancement for many many folks run such tanks without issues.(non CO2)
I would wonder how long the plant's are given to adapt to suddenly submerged conditions where it is not uncommon at all for plant's to shed majority, or all of their leaves during the transistion from emmersed growth to completely submerged growth and develop new leaves better suited for the conditions the plant find itself in.
This process in low tech method can take week's and plant's that appear to be dying are just transitioning to low CO2 environment.
If you yank em up during this time,or frequently move them about ,or monkey with lighting period(s), then they won't perform very well at all.
Might also wonder if any chemicals or meds are being used or have been used in the tank other than dechlorinator.
Salt or chemicals to kill snails can have negative effect on plant's along with some medications.
Would remove any carbon that may be present in the filter and replace it with foam pad or sponge. 
Would clean the filter without fail each month depending on fish load and or frequency and amount of foods being offered.
Over feeding and or over stocking can lead to excess organic matter being added faster than plant's and bacteria can process.
Anyhow, monthly cleaning of the filter material in dechlorinated water in a bucket ,or old tank water removed from the tank at water changes,will give you an idea as to how often you may be able to go between cleaning the filter material, but you won't know if you don't open the filter to see what the material looks like with respect to dirt.
Lighting period should in my view be no more than eight hours straight with at least ten hours of darkness.(Yes plant's need dark period too).
Does no good to plant's as mentioned to be raising /lowering the light,increasing or decreasing photo period especially with new plant's that are struggling tov adapt to their environment.
Might also suggest that if OP decides to use product like EXCEL then "in for a penny. in for a pound" this product need's to be used daily or every other day to be effective and suddenly stopping because your out of the product or it is too expensive,will have near immediate negative effect on the plant's which once again must adapt to another change in their environment.
Would resist the urge to try more demanding plant's until such time as I could keep easier plant's more suited for low tech alive.
Would use some fast growing plants to help consume organic and inorganic matter which in large number's,,make it more difficult for algae to get a hold.
Water sprite is a very good plant for this along with ludwigia,and vallisneria.
Rooted plants that grow fast can help oxygenate the soil or substrate and this will help the plant's as well.
In closing,,I believe as mentioned earlier that there is something we are not being made aware of or seeing other than lack of CO2 which is common for low tech method.
Water sprite the OP has reportedly tried is very hard plant to keep from growing unless ,,one is doing something, or several thing's fundamentally wrong.
Plant's inherently wish to grow.
It is only by our actions or lack thereof,that they fail.
Plant growth in low tech method is most often measured in week's/month's.
Will not see growth measured in day's such as high tech method affords and this I believe is where most folks abandon the effort ,and ultimately start increasing lighting with the notion that more is better and when the algae comes(and it will),they then think it must be the fertz so they start decreasing the fertz which only causes poorer overall health and more algae.
Wise man once suggested to me ,"choose a method,and learn it well" then,,,,try another.
My two cent's.


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

Low tech!!!! I do not want to inject co2! 
So my light is at 24" from the substrate. So i should move it to 18" from substrate? 

And my light window is 9.5 hours from noon - 930pm.

After i plant the nee plants i leave them be. The problen is within a couple days the stems turn to brown mush and break apart and i find them floating in the tank

Not all the plants i bought were grown emerged. On the wisteria. 

Yes all my swords have died off. 

I have low light plants, java ferns and anubias. Both not doing well. But alive. 

I dose plantex the following day after i does macros. 

I am running carbon. I will take that out tomorrow.

They only medicine that was used was about 7 months ago due to ick. It was copper i believe. Which should have a extremely liw concentration due to the water changes ive done since then.

And roadmaster i wish i knew what i was missing. So mayne this problem wouldnt be happening!

Im at work ao when i get home ill get some pictures of the dying plants / stems.


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## steelo27 (Mar 3, 2015)

Are all your plants low light? Cause thats what your getting with the Fugeray Planted +. So if the plants youre losing are medium to high light. Thats why. Test it, put some low light Java Ferns and Anubias next to some of your medium/ high light plants and see which ones die off.


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

Ive been told 100 different things abouty light some say its too much light and to raise it up. Others say lower it, others say its fine. Some say ditch it completely. Well currently its at 24" from substrate.

Also i was told temple narrow, dsg and wisteria were lower light plants


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## BruceF (Aug 5, 2011)

Why are you adding so much magnesium?


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

Okay so pictures

Left is turning to mush. Right is firm and healthy 


What it looks like before mush


What it looks like when you push it between your fingers


Keep in mind this happens within a couple of days. 

Also my dosing was recommended by another member on the forum.


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

Okay so i just did my 50% water change. added 20 more pounds of substrate. and moved my light back down. Its about 18.5 inch from the substrate.


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## sherryazure (Feb 10, 2008)

I am putting this at the top - I've posted a lot - hard for me to see in this tiny box and remembering links from saved thousands - sorry if a mess of a list - and again what type of plants do you have, ph, water hardness, so on (may have missing in your posts). Was it hot/cold when plants taken from store to your set up (I always took a gallon jug or two to use their water for my fish plants and then transitioned them all over a few days to new water - shifts give shocks both to fish and plants - some plants are really sensitive.)

This is a great list by pro as to many reasons for melting plants, badmanstropicalfish (then input melting plants if link a mess).

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/sear...dmanstropicalfish.com/plant_problems.html&ss=
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I haven't posted in a long while (had to leave NYC and no more aquariums). Now I am dating myself but as a child (decades ago) reading Dr. Innes I started my first tank with a guppy and light bulb actually half in the water to heat it (yes that was done way back when). 

What is "new" now is actually "old" (books dates back to 1940's and I still reference them) (I did later add diy yeast co2 but more for fun of it) (used to bake bread so figured out a system to keep it going with little fuss - for 75)

Meaning I raised fish/plants (sold them as a teen) with very little anything (ferts - fish provided, no co2 and regular old fashioned light bulbs - window light as well)

(as well background in biochemistry, chemistry of arts, health fields - all fish meds are trickle down from human but I tried natural methods first).

This example to me is the mess that can be made with fertilizing tablets and liquids - note also how overdosing knocks out bacteria. The balance of temp, lighting, ph, hardness and more, becomes ever more a balancing act (redox systems so on, lol one does not want to know but all set up's involve this complex balance).

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Redox_Potential.html

Even with potted land plants I never fertilized in such a manner... ie start low then let the plants inform if enough or too much.

Note what fertilizer is - and overdoing it can do for plants out of water... ditto for underwater.

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/signs-overfertilizing-plants-41871.html

Fertilizer is not plant food, it is simply a collection of building blocks plants use to produce their own nutrients. Over-fertilization often results in an unusually high accumulation of salts in the soil, as well as excess nitrogen. 

A variety of vague symptoms can indicate over-fertilization, including yellowing and wilting of lower plant leaves; browning of leaf margins and tips; black, brown or rotting roots; slow to no growth; sudden death of seedlings; and leaf drop.

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Plant issues - and plants melting second link.

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/plant_problems.html

http://badmanstropicalfish.com/sear...dmanstropicalfish.com/plant_problems.html&ss=
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http://forum.aquatic-gardeners.org/viewtopic.php?t=997&start=30

<<I far as I can see, it depends if you don't mind a hit on your nitrifying bacteria or not. They're the first to die if you overdose.


Safe for fish, maybe but not all of my plants tolerate even these cautious levels. Hemianthus micranthemoides always takes a hit when I dose H2O2.>>


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(The Walstad Method was inspired by Diana Walstad and her book, Ecology of the Planted Aquarium.)

Note the great article by Russian Anubias expert (when they were hard to find and expensive) (I got district NYC petland to get some in and they now stock them in many of their stores)

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Temp, ph, hard/softness, water quality and shifts (if change less often this allows for minerals so on to build up then when you change a sudden shift - hard on fish and equally hard on plants).

Anubius but applies to other plants as well depending on their needs.

<<1. They not only can survive in shadows, they even prefer shadow conditions. In extreme light (about one watt per liter or more) they develop highly deformed, strangely shaped leaves.

2. In the water that is too rich in organic material anubias leaves may develop holes in them, so you must look after the condition of the aquarium. This happens when you don't regularly "vacuum" the ground, or overfeed the fish, or a dirty filter, or even if you forgot to change the water for quite some time.

3. Rarely, seemingly healthy anubias may all of a sudden have its growing-point start to rot and than fall off. That usually happens when the quality of the habitat has changed fast to the worst. For example, this might occur if the temperature is increased dramatically over a short period of time. Also it might occur when the anubias plant is transferred from extremely fertilize-rich environment in to a very poor one. Usually the plant itself will not rot completely, the growing-point will be regenerated in a different place not far away from the original one. It is difficult to say about main reason of this disease. May be it is some kind of latent invasion. Also, it is quite possible that the plant develops immunity towards such things. Russian specialist from Moscow Alexander Rumyantsev says that he has encountered something like that during the extreme hot summer. It happened again the following summer, but this time, none of the plants had been damaged. The process of rotting happens when the temperature reaches 40 Celsius or even more inside the greenhouse. 

nubias are quite "thermo-resistant" inside the aquariums. I have noticed no problems up to 35 C in my aquarium; only on some leaves I could see white specs at 35 C. Only when it got to 37 C did some of the types of anubias had some of their leaves dying. Therefore, a reasonable question occurs: why don’t the professional growers keep them in their aquariums? The thing is, anubias grow in greenhouse conditions somewhat faster, and develop much larger forms, bloom much more often, and you will have the opportunity to gather the seeds from them. Let us not forget, there are no algae bothering them either. But in terrestrial conditions you have to keep proper humidity, mix the special soil that they will grow in, fertilize them. While in an aquarium, where the fertilization is produced by the fish, such great care isn’t required. And you want some plants for your aquarium, not greenhouse, right?>>

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Anubias are grown out of water and in pots but one can NOT bury the rhizone.. or will rot. They are not true roots but like tenons for hanging onto rocks (forget tech name).

<<In a way, both yes and no. It can be planted as long as the rhizome remains unburied, so that only the roots are in the substrate. However, Anubias roots do very poorly in fine substrate and the anaerobic conditions they can create. So in soil, there's a good chance the roots will rot.

The alternative would be to just let it attach to a piece of rock or wood, and place that on the soil unburied>>

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When first planting it is often hard to keep the crowns up (on those with crowns) and roots in gravel (I used regular gravel in my set ups did not do well with the products you use maybe for higher light set ups but then that was my experience).

Wet Web Media (link below)
<All else being equal they will settle back in and new growth will develop in a matter of weeks. Vallisneria is temperamental about being moved (in fact, most plants are)>

Fertilizers perhaps best after plant roots take off they can get "burned"... ie some in water and then if when growth is robust but again low light means lower plant growth and need. Just as humans can get sick and out of balance with too many supplements. All a delicate balance.

Water hardness: (one example from wwm)

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/FWSubWebIndex/fwsoftness.htm . Have a read of that to understand the risks and benefits, and how to work around low carbonate hardness. I can tell you from personal experience that soft water where the pH fluctuates is lethal to Vallisneria. They die practically overnight in such conditions. As well as CO2, Vallisneria removes carbonate hardness from water as a source of carbon, so the more they photosynthesise, the softer the water gets and the more the pH fluctuates. Apistogramma species often (but not universally) prefer soft water conditions, in which case using some plant other than Vallisneria could make sense. Cryptocoryne for the bottom of the tank and Ceratopteris for the top would be ideal. Mikrogeophagus ramirezi want soft and unusually warm (28C) water. Kribs prefer neutral pH and moderate hardness, but are tolerant. They are oddly sensitive to pH though: acidic pH results in all-female broods, and basic pH all-male broods. To get a balance of male and female fry you need pH 7.0. Cheers, Neale.>




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Remember when changing filter clean pads in aquarium water (set aside - same temp, ph) and wash out but try to keep the biobugs alive or else the tanks starts to recycle again or can cause disruptions. I would have to filters - one at each end to rotate)

I will add my photos of low light set ups, and I never used fertilizer sparingly, spot lights from ceilings, and regular sand/gravel. I created my own hang on back rock sculptures, found huge globes and each had different plants. (did not think to take photos over the years).

My swords in the globe did fantastic, sent up flowers!! Very very low light. (only one spot light high up - all on dimmers for easy up, down) and female betta in it...

My Anubias I have to say - some would grow smaller (later learned about them being grown out of water) and eventually (lower light could take months) settle in. Ditto java ferns - narrow leaf I got on aqua bid and did great. The wood for the most part was huge branches I got in Ca redwood place... wet and soaked for years. 

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MHO too much fussing about. (as previous poster mentioned, give them a chance) but if melting down right away something obviously wrong.

I am sorry but I don't see the plant list?

What is the water temperature - different plants like different environment.

Lower light means needs for fertilizers are less - could be doing too much. (just like land plants).

I as well (tanks from 20 long to 75, and huge globes) had a huge garbage tub in bedroom (nasty NYC water in my area) and had to call municipality each week to see what chemicals were in it... I kept it filtered with various pads, and filled the tanks from there BUT did a partial draw from bottom each week and slow fill to top... I never in my life did a once a month as mho too drastic (fish are osmotic) plants get affected as well. (Yes in nature seasonal shifts but things die off and survive with more drastic measure. And hardier overall).

Many plants (again hard for me to tell exactly) are grown out of water (high humidity greenhouses) Anubias species, (never bury rhizomes as well Java ferns) even Java ferns are grown this way (in nature they live near rivers, falls whereby they can be submerged during rainy season and live out of water during lower water season or just on rocks near water falls).

Then when you plant them they can die off due to making a transition - not always but if they turn to mush as some of your plants did then dead.

Here are some links .

Great resource for many discussions.

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Information.html

http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumKH.html

Great old site with Karen Randall other seasoned pros

http://www.thekrib.com/Plants/Plants/Echinodorus.html

List of plants:

(now it notes some swords high light high fert - but mine did great in low light - maybe type of sword?) The Wendtii did super btw - I was surprised, very low light - took off.

Wrong info on Anubius - do not plant in sand or substrate (see super link to expert) that will kill them fast!

Anubias - It will grow in low to high light, and prefers a rich soil (sand) base.

http://toptropicals.com/html/toptropicals/articles/aqua/anubias_en.htm




http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/AquariumPlants.html#sword

Great site.

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

Quick search on plants melting

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/results....ml&ref=www.wetwebmedia.com/&ss=2712j731592j14


The biodigester I discovered for pond work - and the biologist sold me a smaller amount (think they can sell it now)... those "bugs" that convert natural fish waste into fertilizer and a pinch goes a long way - note their photos of pond algae to crystal clear. (when I sold my 75 rock sculptures, guy could not believe there was water in it).

http://www.biodigesters.net/

http://www.biodigesters.net/aquarium-products.htm

Aquariums are lovely little bits of heaven that have been proven to lower your blood pressure and heart rate; some claim they extend your life.

Anyone who owns an aquarium, salt or fresh water knows that constant care and maintenance is the key an appealing waterscape and happy healthy fish. Now there is a way to obtain these results without the constant cleaning.

Biodigesters are the answer

Biodigesters been specially designed to inhibit algae growth in aquariums by removing its food sources. Biodigesters (affectionately referred to as “bugs”) are a combination of all natural bacteria, lab grade purified enzymes with micro and macro nutrients. Biodigesters bacteria and enzymes are targeted to the food sources available in your aquariums water. Biodigesters can successfully attack, degrade, and liquefy fecal mass, undigested food, and other organics that contribute to a build-up of ammonia and bottom solids within the aquarium. Biodigesters condition the marine environments ecology, close to natures own.

Biodigesters microbes are reliable scavengers that thrive on organic mass (waste). As supplied they are in suspended animation (micro-encapsulated) but are revived when added to the tank. Shortly thereafter, they begin to digest excreta, excess food, oxidize ammonia, reduce nitrites, nitrates, and other N-Compounds and reduce odors.

Biodigesters proprietary blend of all natural bio-cultures and enzymes have been selected for their ability to effectively digest/degrade extremely heavy concentrations of organic mass within an aquatic system. Reducing those hostile factors that have been determined to be detrimental to the health and life cycle of both fin and shell fish.


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## sherryazure (Feb 10, 2008)

I am posting this link to super biodigestor product again - balances all - creates ideal conditions from fish, plant waste so on... (I have no business with them but found and used it when in NYC)

Other links to plant forums.

http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...aquariums/45197-new-microsorum-pteropsis.html

Not sure why I can not figure out how to put images in so will give links to flickr.

http://www.biodigesters.net/aquarium-products.htm

What to Expect After Application

2 to 4 days there will be a reduction in nitrogen and phosphorus levels.
3 to 4 days there will be a reduction in odors.
8 to 10 days there should be a visible improvement in clarity and water quality.

Addition Benefits of Biodigesters

1. Eliminate odors by digesting the organic bottom solids and the naturally occurring bacteria that produce odors.
2. Decrease oxygen requirements for oxidation of organic matter within the water column, thus increasing available oxygen for fish.
3. Reduce bottom solids by converting organic matter to carbon dioxide and water.
4. Eliminates glass and bottom scum by digesting algae’s primary food source (nitrogen and phosphorus). As the algae dies from lack of food and is digested by the Biodigesters.
5. Improves water clarity and quality by digesting suspended organics in the water column.
6. Biodigesters, which do extend the life of a filtration system, mean lower maintenance costs and more effective optimization of water conditions.


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https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157626963975954/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157624858489949/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157622020140334/

Some of my very low light tanks - globes.

These were all low light - I found low light plants, Wendtti (so many beautiful forms, ground, tall very low light) Swords did really well but says higher light - my lighting was spot lights from ceiling... (not even aquarium specific) 

You can see the bio wheel floating in one of the 75 long - was setting it up - as I made each rock hang on back I would have to put in and see placement of each rock take out of afix (two part plumber putty - no metal then melted plastic spoons) and all on harder milk crate heated and bent into hang on back).. so water murky.

The tie that looks like metal is not toxic - fish safe but held down plants loosely until they hooked onto what ever rock or wood (ran out of black)

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157626963975954/

Round Globes with Betta, Orange and Blue somewhere in Sword Globe - (I changed to other when I gave her away - sisters fought so had to separate, and gave tank equipment and plants to make sure they were set up. Fish rescues photos.

Rocky sculpture for 75 - rearranged for photos as I sold things off so a bit cloudy sometimes.

20 long redone later... wood, anubias moss (same ol)

12 all glass long (never got to finish was going to have water falls rocks to right water trickle down and black neon tetra school, cats)

Narrow leaf java ferns (great buy on aquabid guy gave me tons).. 

75 with "falls effect" (high powered filters over rocks - and left both fast currents and in parts slow )... Betta loved it but tore her tell so she went into own place. Cichlid owner bought rocks (hang on back but real granite) (diff types of plastic was used)

Anubias out of water on wood when selling them.

Orange long tailed female betta in 20 long different versions. And rock photos.

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https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/sets/72157622020140334/

The floating plant (given to me by person I traded moss for) died off I guess not enough light for it (highlight plant) and window was back of apt with only reflection from buildings for light.

Narrow leaf java fern, moss on CA Redwood (suction cups at end to stick to sides, or at bottom going up) Anubias (various)

Middle globe - was crystal clear but not sure why shows up cloudy (I am not a good photographer)... one spot light - "coffee" sorry cant remember how to spell that variant Anubias (wavy like coffee leaves, beautiful) and think long wavy was some sort of Wendtii - low light did very well (or some such) bought from guy on Ebay - he's still there. 

20 gal long betta set up - rocks on supports, CA Redwood branches, moss diff Anubias just sitting on top of sand/gravel or black tie twist with suction cup (gently so as not to damage rhizome).


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## sherryazure (Feb 10, 2008)

Last post - this helps to identify types of plants and needs.

Bump: Melting plants


http://www.aquaticplantcentral.com/...ss-sold-xmas-moss-but.html&ss=2973j1073093j14




The second link list by type low light so on...

Correction - Wendtti was in Cryptocoryne (long wavy one in huge globe with wood) go to start to see other plants... low light Crypt but DO NOT like being changed even a tad - plant and leave alone.

Or it was this one (forget but either one wavy long leaves)

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral.com/CRINUM-CALAMISTRATUM-RARE-and-UNIQUE_p_65.html


http://www.rfitropicalfish.com/cryptocoryne_aquarium_plants/cryptocoryne_retrospiralis

Great list of plants and needs - descriptions by type... lighting, foreground so on. (beginner, (easy) great site. (I always found anacharis needs higher light - they have it in low???)

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral.com/Cryptocoryne-undulata-EASY-LOW-LIGHT-PLANT_p_108.html

Like most other crypt species it does well from low light to moderate light, soft to hard water.

Another beautiful crypt (cant find tank 75 before rocks, when full of different crypts did very well in super low light - no fert substrate (low light, fish poo enough) and if left along (no rearranging all the time) did super well, grew and spread out).

http://shop.plantedaquariumscentral...lis-Very-Easy-Great-beginner-Plant_p_128.html


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

im not sure what parts of that info is relevant to my case as there is alot there. 

My test were done with the api test kit
Gh 7
Kh 4
Ph 7.4


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## crusher311 (Nov 8, 2013)

*plants*

have you tried putting in any different plants or always the same ones to replace the dead and dieing? try some fast growing odd balls in there. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Elodea.
aka Anacharis see if they live or if they don't. light wise they are happy with any light. my reg bed room light gave them enough. if they don't live its not your light. i plant them and they grow an 1" every day my only problem is my fish eat two inch's every day. also are you planting all of them correctly. java ferns don't like there roots fully buried a one inch root only goes 1/2" in the ground for it to live properly. my java was turning to mush and dieing until i found that out as planted it properly then i didn't lose any more java's. there a hardy plant but not so hardy if its buried wrong.

sorry for any errors was in a hurry to leave for work.


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

Ive tried many plants. These are the the ones i can remember. Plus the ones above.
Alternanthera reineckii 
Hygrophia salicifolia 
Cabomba aquatic
Cabomba aquatica
Bacopa monnieri
Ammania gracilis
Alternanthera reineckii
Corkscrew val plant
Crypt wendtii
And various species of Amazon Swords.

I believe I'm planting them correctly the ferns are not fully submerged.

Also i did try anacharis and it didn't groe at all. This was also when i was having issues with algae however


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

Anybody have any idea on how to help me?


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## JJ09 (Sep 11, 2014)

Have you sat down and systematically looked at all the changes made in your tank, and what the results were? I didn't realize mine was getting worse and worse with every change I made, until I actually made a list of dates/alterations with corresponding photos. I was surprised that it was changing the light back to original that improved things- and giving less ferts, not more, with longer photoperiod (8 hr) but lower intensity (17 watt daylight spectrum flourescent on a 20L). 

I am still learning myself but had similar problems to yours. My plants were dying, stems turning brown and just dissolving. I thought at first they needed more light, then thought they needed more nutrients, but when I added ferts I got algae. I cut my photoperiod to 6 hrs and got more dying plants. Then was told I needed to add C02 because my light level was driving the plants to grow faster than the other stuff I was providing. I didn't want to go hi-tech so instead lowered the light intensity- I actually put back on the crappy flourescent light the hood strip originally came with- and adjusted my ferts to match and suddenly things got better. 

I was almost ready to give up. I'd had this tank running almost a year before I figured out how to get it healthy for the plants. Keep trying- your other tanks look good so I'm sure you can figure this one out. Look at all the things you've done, and try a different approach that you haven't yet, maybe. Wish I could help more, I know how frustrating it can be.


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## lksdrinker (Feb 12, 2014)

Alexp08 said:


> I am currently doing a once a month 50% water change.
> Dosing is
> 5/8 TSB KNO3
> 1/16 TSB KH2PO41
> ...


Can I ask why you're not willing to use CO2? Seems like its less effort than dosing ferts! I know you said you want a low tech tank...but not sure why? I consider any tank that has fertilizers dosed to be at least medium tech; but the addition of ferts in my book automatically brings you past low tech!

Also, where did you get this dosing regimen from? Do you really mean tablespoon(TBSP) on each measurement and not teaspoon (TSP). I'm no expert on dosing ferts, but since you're doing only monthly water changes it seems like you've got way too much KNO3 and possibly not enough KH2PO4. And why the K2SO4....are you finding a potassium deficiency?

Granted, I'm most familiar (barely at all though) with the EI method. But if we compare just your KN03 dosing vs what is suggested for the EI method, then at the end of the month, before you monthly water change, you've got more than 2 tablespoons total of KN03 in the tank. Compared to the suggested 1 1/2 teaspoons of KN03 before the weekly water change if using the EI method. (even if you're actually using teaspoons, you've got a much higher concentration before your monthly water change than whats suggested before doing the recommended weekly water change with the EI method).

Now having said all that, I have no idea if this could lead to the problems you're experiencing; but figured it was worth pointing out!


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## Alexp08 (Oct 14, 2014)

im sorry. its suppose to say TSP. 
And i dont want Co2 due to the cost. I would like to not even does ferts but awhile ago when i was having this problem thats what people told me to do. Issue is, im still having the same problem.


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