# Brown Hair Algae



## latchdan (Sep 7, 2007)

There is kinda a debate if this is diatoms or a bacteria that feeds on iron, kinda up in the air right now. Seems similar to the algae I have which I call brown hairy algae.
Can see in this link around page 2,
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=233266&page=2


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## ScottPic (Mar 16, 2013)

Looks to be the same. Any luck or advice on getting rid of it?


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## ScottPic (Mar 16, 2013)

Just a thought, could the 12000K lighting be promoting algae growth? From what I understand it is not optimal for plant growth but not sure if it will promote algae...


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## gSTiTcH (Feb 21, 2013)

Sounds like far too much chemical influence for one thing.

Second, are you dosing any fertilizers? If not, you're missing a very important leg of the three part planted tank experience. Good lighting and good CO2 is useless without good ferts.

I would stop dosing with Prime and Stability. Your LFS is out to sell products, and it sounds like it's working. They're offering, you're buying.

If it were me, I would focus on getting the cycle stable, lower your Nitrates (using water changes, not miracle chemicals), then get stocked. After about 2 months, any algae that remains is a problem.


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## gramas (Feb 8, 2013)

Hi Scott, I had exactly the same problem, I posted a picture almost identical to the one you have of your moss and it was suggested to be diatoms. 
Mine came in around week 3 or 4 of a new tank and lasted till about week 7-8. I kept up my normal 30-40% weekly water changes, weekly ferts and kept my co2 at the same level all the time and added 4 otocinclus cats and they munched their way through it. It has all gone now without the need to buy any shop suggested treatments.


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## ScottPic (Mar 16, 2013)

First off, thanks for reading and taking the time to reply.

As far as ferts I am dosing 10 mL Flourish Comprehensive 3x/week and have Flourish root tabs in the substrate. I am going to start EI dosing but I am unsure if that will help or hinder the algae removal at this stage. Not sure if I should start now or wait until the algae has been dealt with. Advice?

I should have been clearer in my initial post regarding my use of Prime. I have only been using Prime to dechlorinate tap water during water changes. I have not been using it to control nitrate/nitrite levels. 

The only new suggestion from the LFS was to dose daily with stability. I was kind of unsure of this advice and your response has confirmed my gut instinct. 

I intended to follow the instructions on the bottle and dose Stability with every water change. Is this not advisable?


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## gSTiTcH (Feb 21, 2013)

Let me answer your question with my thoughts regarding "Beneficial Bacteria" products like Stability.

The bacteria we want in our tanks thrive on Ammonia and Nitrite. If we suddenly remove the bioload completely, our biological filters die pretty quickly from starvation.

With that in mind, consider bottled bacteria such as Stability... what exactly is it? How can it live in the bottle on a shelf for so long when a normal biological filter is so fragile?

The answer lies in the fact that it's not the same bacteria. That is why you have to keep dosing it. The bottled bacteria don't establish colonies and die off, leaving you vulnerable. Additionally, they consume the valuable ammonia that a regular biological colony would use to get established.

http://www.firsttankguide.net/bacteria.php


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## AlyeskaGirl (Oct 6, 2011)

Welcome to keeping plants.

I would personally swap out those 12K tubes with 6500-6700K. The 12K are for saltwater tanks; blue spectrum that are for corals etc.

Ditch Stability as its not an aquatic bacteria. Start 30-50% daily water changes with Prime until you have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and some Nitates.

Make sure you have good circulation throughout the plants. Add a powerhead if need be. I use 2 Nano circulation pumps in my 55g. They are more gentle but provide movement.

Diatoms should disappear once the tank stablizies. Untill then keep wipping them off your plants as not to block the light.

Be patient.


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## Green_Flash (Apr 15, 2012)

I have seen things similar before, I narrowed it down to two things, a filamentous diatom called synedra (very aggressive, remove all of it one day, grow back bigger the next) or a brown algae called rhizo. H202 should kill it, and turn it green, then white and dead. 

The common problem is too high light, 4 T5 HO on a 55g planted is way too much (that is something you would use on a reef tank). 1 -2 T5 should be able to grow any plant. Even raised 6-12 inches off the tank surface. Another problem could be phosphate, try phos zorb or phos guard in your filter.
Less light is always better, ADA setups use very low PAR and lean dosing and have fantastic lush growth with all their plants. Tom Barr also recommends lower light levels. Maybe add more plant mass and floating plants as well. 

Although a lot of variables can be in play, usually it is very high light, inconsistent CO2 levels, and inconsistent nutrient levels that are the cause of these types of brown algae.


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## ADA (Dec 31, 2010)

I have the exact same stuff... struggling with it for a very long time. Otos dont touch it, nothing eats it. It is SO hard to get rid of. I'll try less light


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## Jester946 (Mar 30, 2013)

I have my 2 bulb 48" T5HO 6" off of the rim, and have about 50 PAR at the substrate. I could only imagine what kind of light a 4 bulb T5HO could put out. that's a TON of light.


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## Tmuck44 (Mar 17, 2013)

that stuff has been taking over some of my tank. I suck like 3/4s of it out and it is all grown back by the middle of the next day.


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## Tmuck44 (Mar 17, 2013)

Jester946 said:


> I have my 2 bulb 48" T5HO 6" off of the rim, and have about 50 PAR at the substrate. I could only imagine what kind of light a 4 bulb T5HO could put out. that's a TON of light.


I have a 3 bulb HO over a 20L, probly in the same boat of having too much light.


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