# How to build a co2 regulator [56k!]



## oldpunk78

*Assembly* 

-Mounting a Fabco NV-55

This is the best way to do it. There are a couple other ways, like running it in-line or using Clippard part number 11999. I do not believe using part number 11999 is a good idea. It's way too easy to break. I've personally broken two of them on accident. Running it in-line with hose barbs is fine.

This is what I use to mount it directly to the regulator assembly.

Clippard # 2CPF
Clippard # 15453
Red Loctite # 271
3/32 Allen wrench
7/16 socket wrench/adjustable wrench/open-end wrench (whatever...)










You only need a drop here. No need for a mess. Use the 3/32 Allen wrench to screw your 10/32 coupling into the female 1/8 x 10/32 reducer. You're just snugging it up. No need for lots of force, too much and you'll strip or break something. I just do it hand tight using the Allen wrench.



















Same deal on the other side. Just a drop.










Using a 7/16 socket(or whatever you have that will work), I screw on the reducer. I just tighten it until it's snug. Too much force here and you strip something. The Loctite will hold it together just fine. Let dry 24hrs. 









**Consider this connection permanent** You may be able to get it apart but you might break the coupling trying to do so.

Fabco generally doesn't tighten this screw down very much(probably to keep you from messing up the valve by over tightening. Never use a needle valve as a 'shut-off' valve.) This will lead to just the knob turning and not the valve opening or closing. I just snug it up a little to prevent this.












-Prepping Your Regulator For Assembly


The first thing I like to do is strip the whole thing down and clean it up. This means taking off the gauges and whatever else is connected to the regulator body. This will eliminate any leaky connections left behind from the last guy to have it and will help with assembly. If you've got yourself a new reg, this step isn't necessary.











Now that you've got it all apart, you need to clean out all the ports really well. There will be some Teflon tape remains in the threads and you have to remove it. Failing to clean these out well will result in a clogged solenoid or needle valve. It only takes a little piece to foul your solenoid. If you have access to compressed air, use it. A Q-Tip or small child's tooth brush work well.











-Assembling A Regulator 


I just want to mention that there are a variety of ways to put these things together. This reg is pretty basic and uses as few parts as possible. 










Get everything you're going to need together in a clean area to work in. I seem to have left the pipe fittings out of the picture here. They rolled behind the white board and I didn't notice - ops.

Parts/tools used:

-Victor GPT270C
-Burkert 6011
-Fabco NV-55
-Pipe fittings (Hex Reducing Nipple, 1/8 NPT x 1/4 NPT - Street Elbow, 1/8 NPT)
-Clippard part # MCV-1 check valve
-Clippard part # 11752-4-PKG hose barb
-Clippard # 15453 Male #10-32 Coupling, stainless steel
-Clippard # 2CPF-PKG 1/8” NPT to #10-32 Female Reducer

-8" crescent wrench(2)
-7/16 open/box end wrench
-11/16 open/box end wrench
-non-hardening pipe dope
-Teflon tape










4 to 5 turns of Teflon tape on the CGA-320 nipple. Note the direction it's being wrapped. 










A good 11/16 box end wrench is all you need to connect your CGA-320 nipple to your reg. Get this as tight as you can without damaging anything. If you try to use an adjustable or open ended wrench here, you won't be able to make as tight of a connection without damaging the CGA-320 nipple. 










Prepping the high pressure gauge.










Instillation of the high pressure gauge. I'm just using a crescent wrench here. Again, get this tight but not so tight you can't straighten out the gauge. 



















Prepping the pipe fittings.










This is where 2 crescent wrenches come in handy. Nice and tight.










Installing the solenoid body. I have removed the coil because I feel like it gets in my way.










This is when I start to connect the post body to the regulator body. It's really easy to scratch the reg here. Take care and if you think it's necessary, you could put some tape over the reg body here to keep from scratching it up. 










Getting the low pressure gauge ready to install. Buy now you may have noticed there's no tape on the ends of any of the fittings. There's a good reason for this. You don't want any little pieces tape coming loose and clogging something up. When you get the tape all the way to the ends of the fittings, the threads will cut the tape and little bits will come off. 











Low pressure gauge in place.










Here I'm using some pipe dope on the fitting that connects my NV-55 to the solenoid. I'm using pipe dope here because I feel like it provides just a little more 'lube' and lets me get it on there just a little better.










For this fitting, I have to use a open ended 7/16 wrench. My wrench is on the 10-32 Female Reducer, not the NV-55.










Cleaning up the excess pipe dope.










Assembling the check valve and hose barb. No tape or dope here. They come with little gaskets. These 10-32 fittings are rather fragile and you don't want to use a lot of force here putting them together. Slight wrench is all you need.










Putting the coil/din connector back on the solenoid. This nut is a 7/16. This doesn't need to be super tight either. Just snug.



















All done.


__________________________________________________ ________________________


*Adding a bubble counter to a NV-55*


Parts/tools used:

- JBJ type bubble counter
- Clippard part # 15036
- Clippard part # MCV-1AA
- 5/32 Allen wrench
- 8" crescent wrench (optional)
- non-hardening pipe dope










Pipe dope had been applied to Clippard part # 15036 and screwed into the bottom of the bubble counter with a 5/32 Allen wrench.










Clippard check valve part # MCV-1AA screwed into the the bottom. It's sealed with a little gasket that comes with the check valve.











Now just screw the whole thing into your Fabco. Again, just slight wrench. 


__________________________________________________ ________________________

*Testing*


Bettatail has a great write up for this:

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/e...check-co2-pressurized-system.html#post1390286

__________________________________________________ ________________________

Here are some examples of what you can build on your own.


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## VeeSe

oldpunk78 said:


> OK, now I'm committed - lol
> If there are any particular topics you guys would like me to go more in depth with, just let me know.


1) Pipe thread sealant vs. teflon tape, and also: how much teflon tape is enough, too much, too little? I have a feeling I've been putting too much.

2) choice of connectors/fittings


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## Bettatail

oldpunk78 said:


> Airgas, Airproducts, Concoa, Matheson, Victor, Linde, Smith, Praxair, Harris, and Union Carbide. There are many more I will probably add later as I remember...


here is more info to add to Oldpunk78's list, correct me if I am wrong, the info here is something I know out of my head but not sure they are correct. 

*Airco*:
Airco, and rebranded regulator from other manufacturers.

*Go*
rebranded Airproducts

*Airproducts*:
Airproducts
no child brand, but rebranded under gas service providers available.

*Airgas*:
rebranded regulators from all major manufacturers, Airgas is gas serivce povider but don't build their own regulators.

*BOC*:
BOC(Victor design regulators), they also have rebranded regulators from other manufacturers.

*Victor*:
Victor, fire power, liquid, purity gas, metalist, OSC, Pro Cutter, and more..

*Alphagaz*:
all rebranded regulators from other manufacturers, Alphagaz is medical equipment provider. 

*Harris Group*:
Harris, Matheson, VWR, Scott, fisher scientific, Smith, and more


*Concoa*:
Concoa, Praxair, Air Liquide, ...

*Linde*:
Don't know if they make any, but they do have rebranded regulators from other manufacturers, and large percentage of their rebranded/manufacture? regulators are from Asia.

*Parker hannifin*:
Veriflo, Western Medica, Hudson, .....

*Swagelok*:
swagelok

*Hewlett Packard*:
rebranded from other manufacturers.

*Taprite*:
Taprite:

*Cornelius*;
Cornelius

*Applied Material*:
majority are rebranded parker hannifin


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## oldpunk78

VeeSe said:


> 1) Pipe thread sealant vs. teflon tape, and also: how much teflon tape is enough, too much, too little? I have a feeling I've been putting too much.
> 
> 2) choice of connectors/fittings


Noted!



Bettatail said:


> here is more info to add to Oldpunk78's list, correct me if I am wrong, the info here is something I know out of my head but not sure they are correct.


I knew you would pop up to help out - lol

Hey guys, this for you. If it seems confusing or you feel like I need to cover something more in depth, let me know


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## Bettatail

if you need the fittings info, you can img/link the pictures from my post body kit sale thread, pretty much needed fittings are shown on those two pictures, and I have more different types which are not commonly use, will take pictures of them and give you the link.

and copy and paste from my metering valves selection thread is welcome, just make sure you mention the original link.


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## Bettatail

Mod, please make this thread a sticky.


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## oldpunk78

I could use some feed back guys. Is this heading in the right direction? Remember, this is still under construction...


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## keithy

Bettatail said:


> Mod, please make this thread a sticky.



I second that.


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## herns

Very nice regs! roud:


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## sqtran

please continue, oldpunk78


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## oldpunk78

Don't worry. I've got a lot more to add. 

I'm in the woods camping at the moment so nothing more will get added for a few days.


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## btimmer92

in the woods camping with internet? gotta love smartphones, however I would ditch the smartphone while camping


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## btimmer92

That will do perfect if your solenoid has the square type cable plug. If it has the cable plug with the angled cord input, the cord will be too thick.


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## oldpunk78

I've updated the assembly section a little. Does this look like it's going to be clear enough for everyone?


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## herns

I think this thread should be sticky.


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## POTSHOT

Oldpunk,
This is excellent and timely! I especially like all the pics of the fittings and such. It will help when trying to piece things together. I just got a new airproducts E12-244B as the first piece to my venture into CO2 injection. Ofcourse not knowing exactly what I'm doing, I discovered what the "350" at the end of the model number means. Now I have to replace the 350 nipple/nut with a 320. I could use some guidance with that so I don't screw anything up in the process.
One question regarding tightening the setscrew in the NV knob. Why is this setscrew needing to be tightened... normally comes loose or the knob is not initially attached ?


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## btimmer92

It is just that the needle stem is pretty tight and stiff out of the factory, and sometimes when you turn it for the first time, the knob loses its grip on the stem because the knob is not very tight on the stem at all. To tighten that tiny screw, you will need a 1/16" allen wrench.


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## speedie408

How come you didn't do this write-up when I was a n00b Oldpunk? You and bettatail got too much time on your hands.... that's a good thing! haha Great information!


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## oldpunk78

POTSHOT said:


> Oldpunk,
> This is excellent and timely! I especially like all the pics of the fittings and such. It will help when trying to piece things together. I just got a new airproducts E12-244B as the first piece to my venture into CO2 injection. Ofcourse not knowing exactly what I'm doing, I discovered what the "350" at the end of the model number means. Now I have to replace the 350 nipple/nut with a 320. I could use some guidance with that so I don't screw anything up in the process.
> One question regarding tightening the setscrew in the NV knob. Why is this setscrew needing to be tightened... normally comes loose or the knob is not initially attached ?


I find using a big pair of Vise-Grips works well to remove the old CGA connection. Just be careful with the gauges - they are fragile and bend easily. You can get a cga-320 nut/nipple from a local welding shop/Airgas or online. maknwar sells them here on the forum too in the powerseller section.

Bill already answered the Fabco question. I was just snugging up that one screw because it was left a little loose by Fabco.

Nick - dude, we were newbs at the same time man... lol


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## POTSHOT

Thanks for the info on removing the old CGA and where to get a 320. Also for the tip on the Fabco knob. I wouldn't want to strip it right out of the box!
Keep it comin'... all good stuff for us noobs.


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## oldpunk78

Lots of pics added. I will begin explaining the process when time permits.


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## herns

Those pics you added help a lot.

Neat layout. Easy to understand.
Great job!


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## audioaficionado

Nicely coming along. Pictures are da bomb roud:


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## Alyssa

I think my brain just exploded. :tongue:

So the only question that is making it to the surface right now is ...



oldpunk78 said:


> You have to ask yourself, do I want a regulator that is intended for precise delivery in a clean room or an industrial application or a regulator that was built with the intention of pressurizing a beer keg?


I am assuming that a reg intended to pressurize a beer keg is for some reason inferior as opposed to the other? What is the difference really? (obviously I am as green as one can get about anything to do with co2! lol)


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## audioaficionado

A single stage beer keg pressure regulator is not as precise as a dual stage laboratory grade gas regulator, but both will work for our purposes. However if you can get the better one for little to no extra expense, why not?


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## oldpunk78

^ Well put.


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## Craigthor

Great write up!


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## inkslinger

How do I change a CGA on a brand new regulator, {is it lefty loosely}
What size deep socket will work for a 580 cga


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## oldpunk78

Craigthor said:


> Great write up!


Thank you, let's hope I finish it up soon.


inkslinger said:


> How do I change a CGA on a brand new regulator, {is it lefty loosely}
> What size deep socket will work for a 580 cga


not sure... I don't have one laying around. I did have a 590 and its 11/16. Not sure how close the nipple is though. If its looseish a crescent wrench will probably work.


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## inkslinger

inkslinger said:


> How do I change a CGA on a brand new regulator, {is it lefty loosely}
> What size deep socket will work for a 580 cga


I had to turn into the "HULK" and got both the CGA an the shut off valve off and added the 320 cga on will post pic's later . 


:bounce:


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## audioaficionado

An adjustable crescent wrench did the trick nicely for me. I am the Hulk! :biggrin:


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## POTSHOT

I got an interesting question after asking a local CO2 supplier whether they carried CGA320 adapters (nipple & nut) since I needed to replace the existing CGA350. He was concerned and asked me what gas the regulator was used for since a 350 is mostly used for methane, hydrogen and other explosive gases. His concern was whether the regulator (an E12 244b) could or should be used with CO2. I did tell him that it was a new reg. and never used.
He may not know much about regulators specifically which prompted the question.
I assume there really is no concern with converting from its intended gas to CO2 ??


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## oldpunk78

Nope. No concern. Co2 is an inert gas and isn't hard on regulators. His concern was probably with a high flow(freezing) situation anyway.


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## Pooch

Fantastic work OP!

Thanks for the great write up.

Sticky Plz.


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## oldpunk78

Pooch said:


> Fantastic work OP!
> 
> Thanks for the great write up.
> 
> Sticky Plz.


Thank you, Pooch!

I don't know how many of you have been in need of Swagelok tube fitting part numbers, but I just added some of the more commonly needed ones. If you don't see the ones you need, just let me know.


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## drbotts

I second promoting this as a sticky and suggest more do the same. This is extremely valuable for tons of noobs and experienced PT'ers alike.

@oldpunk and @POTSHOT Oldpunk, I took a Airgas CGA350 and migrated it to a CGA 320. My airgas store said a similar thing to me. It stems from FDA and CGA posters and regulations that say not to move used regulators from flammable or explosive gasses to anything any different. Doing so, may be dangerous. The salesman's point to me was, he couldn't do it. He said that sometimes gas gets trapped inside the regulator and when you remove the nut and nipple, flammable gasses can ignite and explode. 
My personal opinion... I'll do it myself. I'm not hugely worried about this and I think you just have to use some common since. I look at this as just one more regulation/concern a big agency has to have to protect people from themselves. Just MY PERSONAL 2c.... Everybody else.... follow the rules. haha


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## POTSHOT

drbotts - yeah, I suspected the concern was will trapped gas but you got better reasoning than I did. At least in my case, I'm working with a new regulator.
Folks on this forum convert and rebuild regs all the time so if there was even one insident it would result in a major discussion.
I havn't had time to mess around with my reg yet nor chase down the 320 fitting. I noticed makinwar has or had 350 nipple/nut so I'm thinking of just going that route. 
Thanks for the additional info!


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## oldpunk78

POTSHOT said:


> I noticed makinwar has or had 350 nipple/nut so I'm thinking of just going that route.


Did you mean 320? His chrome plated one are nice. You can even get the filter insert for it.


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## POTSHOT

OOps.. yes... 350 is what's on the reg. now. My reg is chrome over brass so that fitting would keep with the cosmetics.


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## POTSHOT

BTW, is there any special reason for the filter? Ultimately I'll be using a new aluminium tank so I couldn't have to worry about contaminates right?


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## Bettatail

filter is necessary in most cases, or debris can get in the reg and clog the poppet valve. 
for some regulators the inlet screen filter might not be good enough, I am currently dealing with two of these kind of regulators right now, they are the low flow vacuum regs, the orifice at the poppet valve is really small, really easy to get clog, I have to add the inline vacuum filters.


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## POTSHOT

Thankd for the advise! I would have passed that adder up, sure appreciate the experience!


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## Bettatail

vacuum parts are really cost, components and the fittings alike, and I believe that is how far we can go, there is nothing else beyond that point.

wish me good luck, building a spacecraft if the precedent high end systems are Ferrari.


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## POTSHOT

Great.. more stuff find and buy? This is the first info I've read about input filtering. Unique to the Airproducts E12 244B's?


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## audioaficionado

I'm sure once this is finished a mod can clean out the surplus chat & posts then stick it and this would be an outstanding resource for us at TPT and the greater internet aquatics hobbyist community.


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## POTSHOT

Agree! Easy to get off the main topic and reason oldpunk kicked it off in the first place.


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## oldpunk78

Actually.... I totally forgot about the filter inserts and that some nipples come with them and some don't. 

There was a reason I'm cramming the info into the first couple posts. lol these threads can get hard to pick all the info out of unless you do it like that.

I will be the first to admit I don't everything about regulators or building them. That's why forums are great though. A collective like this can produce a lot of great info. I will just keep sorting it out in the 1st couple posts so it doesn't get to the point where it's all scattered and conflicting.

@POTSHOT, I believe your Aiproducts unit already has a filter in the high pressure 'in' port.


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## supert

Anybody can walk me through on how to install this piece to the Swagelok metering valve? 

Swagelok # B-4-TA-1-2 (Male Tube Adapter, 1/4 in. Tube OD x 1/8 in. Male NPT)


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## kevmo911

You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done.

*However* there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).


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## supert

kevmo911 said:


> You need the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules. Slide the adapter in and tighten nut to finger tight, then turn 1 1/4 turns with a wrench. Done.
> 
> *However* there are claims that ss on brass pressure connections can leak. So if that brass adapter is going onto a stainless steel metering valve, you might have issues. I suppose it's possible to use a brass nut and ferrules on the end of the ss valve, though there might be a reason I've never seen that done (other than aesthetics).


Thanks, I will give it a shot when I get home. 

Assuming the 1/4 tubing nut and ferrules is the one that usually come with the metering valve (small round nut & cone looking nut), correct?


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## kevmo911

Yep. The two things you describe are the front and back ferrules. Best to find a pic rather than have me try to explain how they fit into the nut.


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## oldpunk78

There's a link explaining how to put them together under the tube fittings section on the first page.


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## supert

Got it. Thanks guys. I'll use the wrench to tighten it. 

Source: http://www.barrreport.com/showthread.php/8226-How-to-use-Swagelok-tube-fittings


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## oldpunk78

This week I'm going to be adding more stuff. Most will be small things no one will notice. 

In the assembly section I've added some photos of how to mount a bubble counter. I still need to add the commentary though.


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## tizzite

This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system:
http://greenleafaquariums.com/complete-co2-systems/primo-co2-system.html

'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal.

I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?


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## oldpunk78

tizzite said:


> This is awesome oldpunk. I wanted a guide like this. I started with a diy paintball setup and found that the needle valve was finicky and always needs adjusting. I'm looking to upgrade and I was looking at the GLA primo system:
> http://greenleafaquariums.com/complete-co2-systems/primo-co2-system.html
> 
> 'you get what you pay for' is so often true in this hobby but I have a sinking sensation that making the regulator as you proposed would get me the EXACT same product and save me $200. It makes sense since most of this is just hunks of metal.


Some of the parts I used in the build I showed for reference are very similar but I don't believe it to be the "exact" same stuff. Orlando uses 'proprietary' nv-55's. I'm not sure what's so different about them though. I also don't think you'll save $200. More like $100 if you're a savoy shopper. 


> I'm completely in the dark when it comes to CO2. Would you say the regulator in this guide is on par, better or worse than GLA's primo system? Is it even something that can be compared? We're looking mainly at needle valves and solenoids, right?


They are comparable. As far as general usage goes, you probably wouldn't notice a difference. GLA was using Burkerts for while while looking for a replacement for the now defunct Clippards. The Burkert solenoid is very comparable to the PeterPual solenoid they use now. The two needle valves are also very similar. 

Now, when it comes to the actual regulator part, I believe that almost any industrial 2-stage is far superior to the Cornelius. I doubt anyone could argue with that either. You have to be careful to pick out the right one though. If you get really used one or a unit that regulates more than 125psi you would notice the Cornelius is actually easier to use for what we're trying to do with it..


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## oldpunk78

Just curious as to if I've steered anyone wrong. Or if anyone has any un-answered questions I might be able to help with.


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## tizzite

I do have one question. If I were to follow this guide exactly to a T but I wanted to use the Ideal needle valve instead of the Fabco, would there be any changes to parts I need for the regulator assembly and the bubble counter addition?


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## oldpunk78

For connecting the Ideal valve to the solenoid, you would need a 1/8 NPT hex nipple.

You would need to use an extra Clippard # 15036 (in the Ideal valve)for using the bubble counter in the same way. I could probably find a picture of what I'm talking about if that doesn't make sense.


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## demonr6

oldpunk78 said:


> Just curious as to if I've steered anyone wrong. Of if anyone has any un-answered questions I might be able to help with.


 Well, after reading this my head was spinning and I decided it is way too complicated and expensive to pursue CO2. I think I need to take some Advil my head hurts so much. Great write up though and for those that are interested enough and have the cash and technical skill it is on point. Now off to get some meds for this headache. I think any even slight inclination to try CO2 was put to bed after this.


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## oldpunk78

demonr6 said:


> Well, after reading this my head was spinning and I decided it is way too complicated and expensive to pursue CO2. I think I need to take some Advil my head hurts so much. Great write up though and for those that are interested enough and have the cash and technical skill it is on point. Now off to get some meds for this headache. I think any even slight inclination to try CO2 was put to bed after this.


Oh c'mon, it wasn't that bad.

LOL


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## demonr6

Yes it was! And for reference I crunch numbers and create dashboard reports and analyze data for a living. LOL


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## audioaficionado

demonr6 said:


> Yes it was! And for reference I crunch numbers and create dashboard reports and analyze data for a living. LOL


No problem. Just let oldpunk sell you a setup and put it all together for you. Then all you need to do is install it on your own CO2 tank and drop a good diffuser into your tank. :hihi:

Not much harder than playing with Lego blocks, only you use wrenches to hook 'em together.


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## maduro80

Does anyone know if the Clippard ET-2M-24-H will work? It's listed as low pressure, high flow (hence the H.) There is also an L version (low flow.) The regular ET-2M-24 that everyone seems to use says neither on the Clippard site. Thoughts??


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## oldpunk78

They just have different orifice sizes. The 'L' version is actually the medium flow model and the ET-2M-24 is the lower flow model. The ET-2M-24, ET-2M-24-L and ET-2M-24-H will all work.


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## kevmo911

Even with with pressure set to 30+psi (which would be necessary for an Atomic-style diffuser), the -H model will *probably* work, but it's only rated to 25psi. The standard and -L models are rated to 105 and 50psi, respectively. For some reason the info at Clippard.com doesn't show this, but if you click the link to the catalog page, you'll see it at the bottom of the page.

Be aware that those are mounted versions, so in case you're checking Evilbay and not the Clippard site, you'll still have to order a mount from Clippard, in which case you're better off buying straight from them. There's no price difference between the standard, -L, and -H, so just get the standard. An example of an inline (not mounted version) would be ET-2-24 rather than ET-2M-24. The main advantage to a mount, for our purposes, is that the inlet is 1/8" NPT, so it's a bit sturdier than a non-mounted version, which has a 10-32 inlet.


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## oldpunk78

^ I'm glad you helped here. I just looked it up on Clippard's site and thought that the 105spi rating for all three looked weird. Now I remember why. There are actually a bunch of typos like this on their site. I should have remembered.


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## maduro80

Thanks, that clears that up nicely. Just wanted to know the difference before ordering.


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## Aftica

Often when you get one of these 2 stage regulators there is a manual shut off valve on the low pressure side already installed.










Pretty well every build thread I have seen... it is absent. Anyone leave it on, and just build off of that with thier solenoid and needle valve etc...?


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## oldpunk78

There's no reason you can't leave it on. I remove them because its just an unnecessary part. It might be useful if you don't have a solenoid.


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## Aftica

oldpunk78 said:


> There's no reason you can't leave it on. I remove them because its just an unnecessary part. It might be useful if you don't have a solenoid.


Ok cool - just kinda figured it would be handy to have a cutoff for those "What if" moments LOL...


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## Bettatail

Aftica said:


> Often when you get one of these 2 stage regulators there is a manual shut off valve on the low pressure side already installed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pretty well every build thread I have seen... it is absent. Anyone leave it on, and just build off of that with thier solenoid and needle valve etc...?


the 212 look really nice, here is a couple pictures of the build


----------



## Bettatail

and good news to you who want a quality setup, oldpunk is getting ready back to business again.

I am not be able to take any new orders recently, due to busy personal working schedule, work almost 70 hours every week and barely have time to stay home. So I contacted oldpunk and wanted him back to the business so he could build setups for the fellow hobbyists, got negative answer initially but now he just contact me, and he is ready.


----------



## Drewsplantednutz

Nice informal thread.


----------



## biogenetic40379

bump for awesome thread. I think i will use thread tape (teflon) instead of thread sealant.


----------



## btimmer92

i feel like this should be in the FAQ section


----------



## TerriM

This discussion was so very helpful to me to assemble my regulator, well written and easy to follow.

I'm embarrassed to say I didn't even look in the FAQ until btimmer posted the above. I thought it was FAQ on the forum itself. How to customize your control panel, set signatures, change avatar, that kind of thing. Thanks! lol


----------



## plantedman

Bettatail said:


> the 212 look really nice, here is a couple pictures of the build


"the 212 look really nice, here is a couple pictures of the build"

Which company makes this first item you mentioned... Does it come with a solenoid valve and bubble counter?


----------



## Unikorn

This may be a stupid question but, I'm going to ask it anyways.

I just set up a aquatek regulator on a 20oz paintball co2 tank using the blue adapter that aquatek sells. I was wondering how to make sure the co2 tank is controlled without it containing an off valve that I could turn? This really confused me, I hooked everything up, used teflon tape for gas on the threads between the adapter and the regulator and between the tank and the adapter. The tank made the little noise it makes when it connects then it released all the co2 gas through the little safety holes on the adapter and the regulator. The tank and the regulator got frosty cold.. 

Any suggestions? I have since then disconnected the connections and retaped all of the threads and used the little bit of co2 left in the tank to make sure there were no leaks.


Thanks for helping a newbie out! Sorry if this was a stupid question. Everyone on this thread seems really knowledgeable about CO2 equipment and I thought I would ask.


----------



## scapegoat

had anyone messed with the push to connects? http://www.fastenal.com/web/search/...ategoryl3:"603422 Push-to-Connect Fittings"|~

i dropped a whopping $30 (shipped) on a lot of random connections on ebay thinking, "gee wilikers! i might be able to use these..." and it turns out... not really w/ what i have. there are a decent number of these push to connect fittings and i'm thinking of giving them a shot. I only have two of the push to connect tubes... and a bunch of elbows, 1 to 2's, and two of the tube connection manifolds that would be great for a set up w/ multiple tanks.


----------



## nvladik

I use them on the paintball equipment... works.


----------



## bigd603

Does anyone know what types of shops would sell this stuff locally?


----------



## oldpunk78

What stuff exactly? I know for a fact you have a Clippard supplier in Portland.


----------



## jdmstop

Where do you purchase the din/power cord for the berkert 6011, anyone know a source or link?

Thanks


----------



## oldpunk78

Sorry I missed this (whoops...)
http://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-6017-burkert-008403-plug-connection-with-led-no-varistor http://www.aquariumplants.com/product_p/sol.htm


----------



## MarkC

What is the cost of building your own regulator?? I have been thinking of doing plants but the cost of a regulator ain't cheap. And the pop bottle and paint ball tank won't work for my 75.


----------



## oldpunk78

You can spend a lot or a little. It really depends on what you are trying to build and how patient you are. I would say $150 to $250 is normal. If you want to keep it under $100, it can be done but you need tons of patience.


----------



## MarkC

oldpunk78 said:


> You can spend a lot or a little. It really depends on what you are trying to build and how patient you are. I would say $150 to $250 is normal. If you want to keep it under $100, it can be done but you need tons of patience.


It would be great to keep it at 100bucks. I got time. I just set up the tank. Getting back into the hobby. Been 12 years since I have had a tank up. Want to share it with my sons. They seem to be enjoying it even with just a couple fish in the tank.


----------



## kross

You can usually find good used 2-stage regulators on eBay for around $50. They don't have to say they are for CO2. If they don't come with the CGA 320 fitting to hook up to a CO2 tank, you can buy one here for about $3 plus shipping: http://www.bettymills.com/shop/product/view/Western Enterprises/WSE312-CO-3.html

Then just follow the first couple posts in this thread for the rest of the parts needed.


----------



## oldpunk78

Just thought I'd give this bump. Not sure of anyone ever looks in the sticky anymore.


----------



## audioaficionado

It's linked in my sig.


----------



## oldpunk78

YAY!!!! Post more - LOL


----------



## sspark

Hi oldpunk, thanks for the writeup... quick question, the space under my tank barely fits my 10# co2 tank, i'm left with about a 1/4" of space above the tank handle. My question is, is it ok to add extensions the piece that bolts on the co2 tank? 

So something like this:

Co2 valve > standard 320 nut/nipple > female 45* elbow 1/4 NPT > 2" hex long nipple extension 1/4 NPT > female 45* elbow 1/4 NPT > 2" hex long nipple 1/4 NPT > regulator?

I need to extend the regulator below the handle so that the dual gauges have clearance from the top of the ceiling of the tank stand. 

Thanks for your help in advance.


----------



## Darkblade48

Wow, I have not seen it done like that before. I would imagine it *might* be possible, but the problem is that each connection would have to be extremely tight and well put together, since each joint would have to deal with 800-1000 PSI of CO2.


----------



## Bettatail

mounted the system under the fish tank, and use a high pressure hose to connect the system to the co2 tank.

picture is not a complete system, but will give you idea how this can be done.


----------



## oldpunk78

sspark said:


> Hi oldpunk, thanks for the writeup... quick question, the space under my tank barely fits my 10# co2 tank, i'm left with about a 1/4" of space above the tank handle. My question is, is it ok to add extensions the piece that bolts on the co2 tank?
> 
> So something like this:
> 
> Co2 valve > standard 320 nut/nipple > female 45* elbow 1/4 NPT > 2" hex long nipple extension 1/4 NPT > female 45* elbow 1/4 NPT > 2" hex long nipple 1/4 NPT > regulator?
> 
> I need to extend the regulator below the handle so that the dual gauges have clearance from the top of the ceiling of the tank stand.
> 
> Thanks for your help in advance.


You could do that but I'd recommend finding some high pressure hose like Bettatail suggested. It would just be less problematic.


----------



## jstehman

Have you tried rotating the regulator so the gauge faces point at an angle? That's how my 20lb tank fits in my stand.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hey, what are some signs that your Co2 needs a refill? Beside the whole EOTD, do you guys usually wait for it to go below 500 psi? Or will it just rapidly drain down to zero? 

It is still heavy and there is liquid inside, no idea how much though. Everything is stable, working pressure didn't go up and bubble count reminds the same. 


Do you guys wait till it almost gone, like 20% then refill? I'm trying to avoid the EOTD and I don't mind losing 15- 20 % of the reminding Co2.


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey, what are some signs that your Co2 needs a refill? Beside the whole EOTD, do you guys usually wait for it to go below 500 psi? Or will it just rapidly drain down to zero?
> 
> It is still heavy and there is liquid inside, no idea how much though. Everything is stable, working pressure didn't go up and bubble count reminds the same.
> 
> 
> Do you guys wait till it almost gone, like 20% then refill? I'm trying to avoid the EOTD and I don't mind losing 15- 20 % of the reminding Co2.


When your high pressure gauge starts to show a decrease in gas pressure, you are reaching the end of your cylinder. 

I use a dual stage regulator, so I wait until the cylinder is completely empty.

Some people refill once they start noticing a decrease in pressure (the pressure drops to (say) 500-600 PSI).


----------



## sspark

thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll try the tilting idea, but since I'm in the process of building it, I don't know if it will work. But I will for sure consider the hose route. 

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Darkblade48 said:


> When your high pressure gauge starts to show a decrease in gas pressure, you are reaching the end of your cylinder.
> 
> I use a dual stage regulator, so I wait until the cylinder is completely empty.
> 
> Some people refill once they start noticing a decrease in pressure (the pressure drops to (say) 500-600 PSI).


How long does it take to completely empty when a decrease in pressure is noticed? I think I been on 700 psi for two months now with no further decrease.


----------



## kevmo911

FlyingHellFish said:


> How long does it take to completely empty when a decrease in pressure is noticed? I think I been on 700 psi for two months now with no further decrease.


It sounds like your regulator reads 700 psi when the cylinder is full - which is fine. Once it starts dropping, it doesn't hold at a certain level. A couple weeks is about the most it will take to go from full to completely empty.


----------



## sspark

Another question. I have a brass regulator, stainless steel solenoid and needle valve. I read somewhere (can't seem to find it) that there might be an issue with the brass/stainless steel connection?


----------



## Bettatail

sspark said:


> Another question. I have a brass regulator, stainless steel solenoid and needle valve. I read somewhere (can't seem to find it) that there might be an issue with the brass/stainless steel connection?


no, it is just if you put too much torque on the connection, the stainless steel may carve into the brass, or damage the brass fittings.


----------



## clang

sspark said:


> Another question. I have a brass regulator, stainless steel solenoid and needle valve. I read somewhere (can't seem to find it) that there might be an issue with the brass/stainless steel connection?


I believe that stainless steel threads can be galled by brass and some other metals. Be especially careful when working with stainless steel female threads.

Thanks, darkblade; link fixed.


----------



## Darkblade48

clang said:


> I believe that stainless steel threads can be galled by brass and some other metals. Be especially careful when working with stainless steel female threads.


Link doesn't work.

There is some slight galvanic action between stainless steel and brass as well.


----------



## Steve106

Can anyone say whether or not this is a good deal? Is it a well designed product? http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3747+9895&pcatid=9895


----------



## Darkblade48

Steve106 said:


> Can anyone say whether or not this is a good deal? Is it a well designed product? http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+3747+9895&pcatid=9895


You will find people that both had good experiences and bad experiences with the Azoo regulator. 

A common complaint is that the needle valve may be a little fiddly/unstable when you first start using it.


----------



## kevmo911

It's a good deal in that it's a cheap introduction to real, pressurized CO2. But as for it being a well-designed product? No. It's on the very lowest tier of the regulator durability pole, along with Milwaukee, Aquatek, and their clones.

Fortunately for you, you've posted in the perfect thread! Start on page one and read through it slowly, and abandon any ideas about buying garbage. You'll be grateful you did.


----------



## AnotherHobby

Awesome thread! I have a simple question. I'm putting together a regulator right now, and while I wait for the rest of my parts, I was wondering how you get the angles to line up nicely on the parts and fittings. 

How much can you tighten (or how much do you need to tighten) each fitting? I know you can over torque them. Say I start screwing in a 1/8" 90° fitting that I want pointing straight up, and it start to get tight just past where I want it. Should it be able to go around 350° or will it tighten up to quick? Should I back it out and add a little more teflon tape to make it tighter? 

I know the low pressure side is not very high PSI, but I'm not sure how tight it needs to be for a good leak free seal. Any tips on final assembly?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

kevmo911 said:


> It's a good deal in that it's a cheap introduction to real, pressurized CO2. But as for it being a well-designed product? No. It's on the very lowest tier of the regulator durability pole, along with Milwaukee, Aquatek, and their clones.
> 
> Fortunately for you, you've posted in the perfect thread! Start on page one and read through it slowly, and abandon any ideas about buying garbage. You'll be grateful you did.


You know, some people have been using these garbage and they have been working fine for them. 

Used dual stage on evil bay can come DOA and then you end up reading the fine print of "As is" and "Untest"

There are pros and cons to both. What I agree with you about is staying away from the clones. The oversea stuff are cheap for a reason.


----------



## sbarbee54

I just got a great brand new rebranded concoa 312 dual stage of evil bay for 59 shipped. There are good deals you just have to know what to look for. I was educated by oldpink betatail and a few others. I also just got a Parker metering valve of evil bay for 28 shipped brand new and retails is 485.00


There is a used good working concoa 312 on there right now for 40 free shipping


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## eatfood

what are you searching for - i can't seem to find that concoa


----------



## oldpunk78

AnotherHobby said:


> Awesome thread! I have a simple question. I'm putting together a regulator right now, and while I wait for the rest of my parts, I was wondering how you get the angles to line up nicely on the parts and fittings.
> 
> How much can you tighten (or how much do you need to tighten) each fitting? I know you can over torque them. Say I start screwing in a 1/8" 90° fitting that I want pointing straight up, and it start to get tight just past where I want it. Should it be able to go around 350° or will it tighten up to quick? Should I back it out and add a little more teflon tape to make it tighter?
> 
> I know the low pressure side is not very high PSI, but I'm not sure how tight it needs to be for a good leak free seal. Any tips on final assembly?


Boy, I don't have a good answer for how to get things ending up where you want them. It's a trial and error type of learning process. It's not as hard as you might think though. You might have to try it and fail, and re-tape and try it again a few times but you'll figure it out. If you're going to be using SS parts for the first time, be careful. The threads will break if you're not careful of over tightening. A good 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape should be all you need to get the fittings where you want them. With SS, maybe a couple more.


----------



## AnotherHobby

oldpunk78 said:


> Boy, I don't have a good answer for how to get things ending up where you want them. It's a trial and error type of learning process. It's not as hard as you might think though. You might have to try it and fail, and re-tape and try it again a few times but you'll figure it out. If you're going to be using SS parts for the first time, be careful. The threads will break if you're not careful of over tightening. A good 4-5 wraps of Teflon tape should be all you need to get the fittings where you want them. With SS, maybe a couple more.


Well... I'll just give it a shot then. Thanks for the advice! :thumbsup:


----------



## oldpunk78

AnotherHobby said:


> Well... I'll just give it a shot then. Thanks for the advice! :thumbsup:


No problem. When taping, be careful not to get it on the very ends of the fittings. You can cut the tape off at the ends and cause clogging issues. Also, if re-taping, clean every spec of the old tape out of the fittings before trying it again for the same reason.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Let the games begin. 










These gauges are huge, they are both bigger than my Aquatic Life regulator. The entire thing also weights a ton, you can beat a man to death with this thing.


----------



## oldpunk78

Ya, no one realizes those things weigh 5-7 lbs. ^ that's a good looking unit


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Thanks! Oh and I appreciate all the help lately, very nice of you helping out this hobby.

It's a Matheson 3122 

Nickel Brass plated
4 - 100 psi


----------



## sbarbee54

My praxair they helped me find


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Thanks! Oh and I appreciate all the help lately, very nice of you helping out this hobby.
> 
> It's a Matheson 3122 Stainless Steel 4 - 100 psi





sbarbee54 said:


> My praxair they helped me find


Good luck on the builds guys. Post the pics when done!


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Thanks! Oh and I appreciate all the help lately, very nice of you helping out this hobby.
> 
> It's a Matheson 3122 Stainless Steel 4 - 100 psi


amazing, when you asked whether to get this reg, didn't know the condition of this beast.
Even it is a chrome plated, this thing is $500+ retail price, the same condition as the one in the picture, good buy!

Now I am drooling all over, 

Here is a system, built a while ago, with identical regulator.


----------



## theantman

sbarbee54 said:


> I just got a great brand new rebranded concoa 312 dual stage of evil bay for 59 shipped. There are good deals you just have to know what to look for. I was educated by oldpink betatail and a few others. I also just got a Parker metering valve of evil bay for 28 shipped brand new and retails is 485.00
> 
> 
> There is a used good working concoa 312 on there right now for 40 free shipping
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


i saw the used concoa on ebay, however just curious how do you know its a 'good working' one? did you by chance interact with the seller? its listed as used sold as is... i guess for the price, you just roll the dice?


----------



## sbarbee54

Yeah I would only buy one if they offer some warranty, I see alot on there with a 14 day return


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Bettatail said:


> amazing, when you asked whether to get this reg, didn't know the condition of this beast.
> Even it is a chrome plated, this thing is $500+ retail price, the same condition as the one in the picture, good buy!
> 
> Now I am drooling all over,


The guy quoted me 600+, of course I didn't believe him. Is there a way to tell if it's chrome plated or Stainless Steel? Visually speaking I mean, would chrome be way more shinny? 
Is the regulator in your picture Stainless Steel or Chrome?


----------



## oldpunk78

A 3120 Series is nickle plated brass.

http://www.mathesongas.com/pdfs/products/Model-3120-Dual-Stage-High-Purity-Brass-Regulator.pdf

Op's - to answer your question, yes, the chrome ones are lot shinier (in general) than most stainless. Some of the stainless ones have been more polished and are pretty darn shiny. Most stainless regs have what I would consider a 'brushed' look. Nickle plating is pretty close to the appearance of stainless steal.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Let's just pretend it's Stainless Stain. How come Bettatail's 3120 series regulator looks less shinny? I know my gauges for sure is not SS, wish I could see the same for my regulator.
Thanks for the correction, my ego and self-esteem needed that. 

Any recommendation for a good solenoid? I would prefer it not to be hot, and not in need of rewiring.


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> It is the same model in the picture, took the picture without auto/enhence settings to show the most realistic look, so it wasn't as "shiny" as yours.
> 
> As oldpunk mentioned, all 3120 model are plated, mantheson 3180 or 9400 are true Stainless, $800+ retail though.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Must be my iPhone 4 camera, makes everything pretty shinny. Here is a chrome CGA 320 nut next to it. 











Edit: Anyone know about these panel mounts? You can have a row of regulators and remove the adjustment knob so no one else can mess with them. Matheson has a pdf guide for this. So according to them, you can remove the knob by loosing the hex nut. Set it at a pressure that you want and hold it with a flat head screw driver. Once the knob removed, you won't have to worry about someone messing around with the thing. 

But then again....you won't have an awesome blue knob with a Matheson sticker on the cap.


----------



## oldpunk78

Are you really considering panel mounting your regulator? That will pretty much cause you to need to run a line to cylinder instead of just going right from cylinder to regulator. Running a high pressure line can get costly.


----------



## Darkblade48

oldpunk78 said:


> Are you really considering panel mounting your regulator? That will pretty much cause you to need to run a line to cylinder instead of just going right from cylinder to regulator. Running a high pressure line can get costly.


+1. Not sure why you would consider panel mounting when just cylinder mounting is perfectly fine.


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Edit: Anyone know about these panel mounts? You can have a row of regulators and remove the adjustment knob so no one else can mess with them. Matheson has a pdf guide for this. So according to them, you can remove the knob by loosing the hex nut. Set it at a pressure that you want and hold it with a flat head screw driver. Once the knob removed, you won't have to worry about someone messing around with the thing.
> 
> But then again....you won't have an awesome blue knob with a Matheson sticker on the cap.


good to try, but is there any need to make the system stationary underneath your fish tank, if your fish tank is not an oversize one?

besides front bracket panel mount in your picture, there are back bracket mount or back support mount(mainly for single stage), and manifold back support mount.

swagelok compression tube fittings and swagelok braided air hose, or parker parflex hose, are good to connect between the regulator and co2 tank. These high pressure hose or fittings are quit expensive, anyway, you can get a $500+ matheson 3120 regulator for $100, look hard enough you will find yourself the right braided hose and compression fitting at really low cost.










this is one of the typical mounting spare set(manifold back support mount), I've showed it here or there, and actually it is a set I save for myself, once the new stand for the fish tank is built, this mount set will be utilized. several other back bracket mount kits available though, don't have the picture.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I don't have the kind of cash for that. :bounce: 


Just thought I throw that info out there. If anyone was wondering about the adjustable knob, it is removable - for Matheson anyways. 

Anyways, what you guys do with your CGA 580 connection or whatever came with your regulator? Do you just sell it?


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> Anyways, what you guys do with your CGA 580 connection or whatever came with your regulator? Do you just sell it?


I keep mine for a rainy day 

I have so many now though...


----------



## oldpunk78

I throw mine in the recycling bin. :/


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Can I just keep the manual shut off valve on the rig? I don't want to take off the working pressure gauge then the manual shut off, feel like a lot of work. 


The manual shut off is able to close and keep the pressure closed right? Can I just run the post body from the 1/8 connection? It came with 1/8 compression, I think that it anyways.


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> Can I just keep the manual shut off valve on the rig? I don't want to take off the working pressure gauge then the manual shut off, feel like a lot of work.


Yes, you can keep it on, if you want.




FlyingHellFish said:


> The manual shut off is able to close and keep the pressure closed right?


Depends on what pressure it is rated for. It also depends if the valve is designed for complete shut off, or if it is only meant as a flow adjuster.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Can I just run the post body from the 1/8 connection? It came with 1/8 compression, I think that it anyways.


Yes, you can, though you may need some adapters to go from the 1/8" compression to whatever your solenoid takes.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ nice, thanks for the info. :bounce:

Swaglok quoted me 18 dollars for one stainless steel stem hahahahhaha


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Can I just keep the manual shut off valve on the rig? I don't want to take off the working pressure gauge then the manual shut off, feel like a lot of work.


It will 5 mins onto the build if you remove the low pressure gauge. Take it off. :icon_roll


----------



## kevmo911

It will also extend the width of the rig by several inches. Go ahead and do it right.

Looking at the pics you posted, you should be able to unscrew that brass compression fitting if you really don't want to bother removing the valve. But I would.


----------



## Bettatail

oldpunk78 said:


> It will 5 mins onto the build if you remove the low pressure gauge. Take it off. :icon_roll


+1, don't need that manual shutoff valve anyway, nice regulator + ugly postbody = ugly system, so take that manual valve off.


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Swaglok quoted me 18 dollars for one stainless steel stem hahahahhaha


what stem you are talking about? a needle stem?

Most industrial parts are so specialized, so expect high cost, they are not for ordinary individuals anyway.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I have girly weak hands, and they used some kind of white paste instead of Teflon. It's like rubber or something. 

Is there any other way to remove the manual shut off without removing the working pressure gauge? Maybe I can remove the knob on the shut off valve then unscrew it? It's my first build and I really don't want to mess up.

The stem is just the plain 2.5 inch Stainless steel CGA320. There is a swagelok centre near where I live, very helpful but they mainly deal with businesses only. Quoted me 18 dollars + shipping (to their centre) which is around 2 - 3 weeks. I'm just basically waiting for the stem


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> I have girly weak hands, and they used some kind of white paste instead of Teflon. It's like rubber or something.
> 
> Is there any other way to remove the manual shut off without removing the working pressure gauge? Maybe I can remove the knob on the shut off valve then unscrew it? It's my first build and I really don't want to mess up.
> 
> The stem is just the plain 2.5 inch Stainless steel CGA320. There is a swagelok centre near where I live, very helpful but they mainly deal with businesses only. Quoted me 18 dollars + shipping (to their centre) which is around 2 - 3 weeks. I'm just basically waiting for the stem


you can take the knob off to clear the way, I did the same on Matheson 3810, but some other regs, the on/off valve with knob off still get in the way, have to take out the LP gauge first.

actually the SS CGA 320 stem for $18, is cheap. Western Enterprise retail is about $25 for a single SS stem or a nut.
where you get the SS CGA 320 nut then?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

How did you take the knob off? You said there was enough clearance to remove it? I looked at the shut off valve and yes, I believe there is enough room.


I'm trying to source a nickel plated nut from Praxair, they have some in stock but not the 2.5inch stem. They order it from Western as well, the brass stem is 5 bucks locally. The problem with Praxair is, it takes 3 - 5 weeks for the order while Swagelok takes less time.


I might just order from Swagelok and be done with it. I guess everyone orders from Western because Swagelok's site links to Western Part number list too. 

SS-CO-3 - St. Steel, 1/4" NPT, 2" Long


What is this?
Hand-Tight, 1/4" NPT, 2 1/2" Long
Brass, 1/4" NPT, 2 1/2" Long w/check
Teflon, Snap-In Washer

Hand tight and nipple with check valve? Teflon washer - snap in? What voodoo magic is this?


EDIT: Got everything removed. I had a hell of a time trying to remove the 580 stem. I tried adjustable wrenches, vice grips, swearing at it, threatening it with a hammer, nothing worked. I finally went to a local welding shop and they got it out for me. They were scratching their heads trying to figure out how to remove it. One of them asked me if I wanted to keep the 580 to which I replied, to hell with it! One twist in a bench vise later and it was done. 

Ironically, I came back and Oldpunk said in a private message - "hey, you should try a bench vise..." Much thanks to oldpunk for the help, info, etc. 


















They got built in filters!


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Any of you guys have pictures of the working pressure and out let valves by any chance? 

I don't have filters on those, I only got them on the inlet and high pressure. Do you guys have groves in your outlet valve?


----------



## exv152

flyinghellfish - nice dual stage rig btw!
:icon_wink


----------



## eatfood

This is my reg I built, what do you think? Pretty much snooped around here figuring this thing out.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ What that thing at the side? Where you get that CGA 320 fitting? 

Did you meet Superman at the local welding supply shop too? He took my old CGA 580 off for me.


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ What that thing at the side? Where you get that CGA 320 fitting?
> 
> Did you meet Superman at the local welding supply shop too? He took my old CGA 580 off for me.


It looks like the regulator was only a 1 gauge regulator, so adding a manifold with another gauge would show the delivery pressure.

As you already realized, a bench vise works wonders  I use it myself to take off stubborn fittings.


----------



## eatfood

That manifold comes on that reg like that. Got the cga from airgas. I was kind of turned off by the length, but it is growing on me. Not quite following the super man comment lol.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ You must either be Canadian to understand the joke, or know who Superman is.


----------



## kevmo911

My first go-to is always a pipe wrench - I don't care about the old fitting. That's worked maybe 15 of 18 times. Two of the others I went with a bench vise. The last one failed the pipe wrench, bench vise, and filing down the edges of the fitting tests. The end of the CGA fitting finally just corkscrewed and I gave up on it.

For the record, the one failure was a VTS400, which was old. 30 years? 40? Maybe more.


----------



## eatfood

^ ha ha - yeah I know who superman is lol . I actually just used two crescent wrenches which worked perfectly for me.


----------



## Darkblade48

kevmo911 said:


> The last one failed the pipe wrench, bench vise, and filing down the edges of the fitting tests. The end of the CGA fitting finally just corkscrewed and I gave up on it.
> 
> For the record, the one failure was a VTS400, which was old. 30 years? 40? Maybe more.


Wow, what ended up happening to the CGA fitting? I'm not too sure what you meant by "corkscrewed" (did it split?)

I kind of want to see pictures too


----------



## oldpunk78

Sounds like the nipple itself twisted instead of the threads. ^


----------



## herns

Hey Josh,

You may want to show a better idea how to connect a pre-wired solenoid?
I bought a couple of Burkert s/s 6011 on eee--bay.


----------



## KTern

herns i hope you did not buy it from the guys (jairodz2012) with the used 6011. I place an other before xmas and i never got it. I have to dispute the transaction for my money back from evil bay


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I miss the whole Burkert deal, so I'm in the market for a solenoid valve. Beside the build quality, can we use just any solenoid valve? I found a bunch for 10 - 30 dollars on EEEbay. 

Can someone explain why we use AC 110 over the DC? 

AC 110 v 
AC 120 v
DC

So locally what do i ask them specifically for? My local place has a huge selection of solenoid valve, some with a billion manifold input/output and 10 solenoid on it or something. 

Do I ask them for this? 

Solenoid Valve Coil
DIN power connector 
2 port Manifold




Here some example of cheap valves, This thing here is 10 bucks.


----------



## oldpunk78

You want something that's 4 watts or less (preferably), rated for a continuous duty cycle, has 1/8npt ports, and 2 way, normally closed as well.

That one in the pic is 220vac.

110 is the easiest, dc solenoids need a power sourse and low voltage ac solenoids can be difficult to find a cheap power supply for.


----------



## oldpunk78

herns said:


> Hey Josh,
> 
> You may want to show a better idea how to connect a pre-wired solenoid?
> I bought a couple of Burkert s/s 6011 on eee--bay.


I hope you didn't get those manifold mount ones. Do you have a pic?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

what wrong with the manifold mount ones?


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> what wrong with the manifold mount ones?


You will need to hunt down a suitable manifold.


----------



## herns

KTern said:


> herns i hope you did not buy it from the guys (jairodz2012) with the used 6011. I place an other before xmas and i never got it. I have to dispute the transaction for my money back from evil bay


I got this from smokin247. It has been on e_bay for couple of mos. I think a lot from TPT got this stainless Burkert S.



oldpunk78 said:


> I hope you didn't get those manifold mount ones. Do you have a pic?


 The listing had ended but the photo is still on e bay.

Item number: 150958633465

Item Description.
*NEW SS BURKERT SOLENOID VALVE 2822 2 WAY N.C. 6 BAR MAX 24V DC 2 WATT 1/8" NPT*


I just found the thread.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2082478&postcount=14


----------



## oldpunk78

I just soldered and shrink warped the ones I got. The wiring works either way. +/- doesn't matter.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

So let say I find a solenoid that AC 110 or AC 120 that prewire with the DIN, 1/8 - 2 ports, would that work?

Why the work? There is like.. a million solenoid out there, beside the build quality, would any solenoid work? I don't see why not?


----------



## oldpunk78

Sure, it also needs to be 2-way, normally closed and rated for a continuous duty cycle (important).


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Thank you ... phew


----------



## Bettatail

herns said:


> I got this from smokin247. It has been on e_bay for couple of mos. I think a lot from TPT got this stainless Burkert S.
> 
> 
> 
> The listing had ended but the photo is still on e bay.
> 
> Item number: 150958633465
> 
> Item Description.
> *NEW SS BURKERT SOLENOID VALVE 2822 2 WAY N.C. 6 BAR MAX 24V DC 2 WATT 1/8" NPT*
> 
> 
> I just found the thread.
> 
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2082478&postcount=14


lucky, didn't know that the seller still had them, or you bought it in Dec, grabbed the last two?


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> So let say I find a solenoid that AC 110 or AC 120 that prewire with the DIN, 1/8 - 2 ports, would that work?
> 
> Why the work? There is like.. a million solenoid out there, beside the build quality, would any solenoid work? I don't see why not?


besides the right voltage and the connection port type, the most important of all, make sure the power consumption is low, or it will burn your hand and the heat will shorten the life of that solenoid.

if not be able to find a 4 watts or below, let me know, there are some high quality 6 watts that doesn't burn.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ I'm still in search for that solenoid, was looking for one that has a DIN LED.

Anywhooo,

I decided to buy the brass CGA320 for 10 bucks, I heard the price wrong and it's actually 30 + 20 for the nickel plated ones. Unless you guys have a better source for 2inch Chrome or Nickel plated, I'm all ears.


----------



## eatfood

You should just spend to $30, and get the one from victor as it is the 2" version. I started off by getting the brass for $10, only to spend more money to upgrade later - why not when you are trying to build something the way you want it to look. I mean you tank is only going to cost $20 a year or whatever depending on the size you have. So what's an extra one time purchase of $20 in the beggining?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Wait what? Where do you get both of those for 30 bucks? Is it stainless steel or is it nickel plated chrome? 

I think I might need more than 2 inches, more like 2.5 inches.


----------



## kevmo911

http://www.jandrweldingsupply.com/store/Smith/SpecMenu.html

Chrome is $11+$11
SS is $24+$24

SS is 2 inches, chrome probably is too.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Thanks! 

Does it matter if the inlet already has a built in filter? What length do you guys usually put on, 2inch right? My gauges are kind of big, would 2inch be enough?


----------



## oldpunk78

You're probably gonna want the 2 1/2" nipple. The extra filter is a good thing.


----------



## sbarbee54

Need help finding a good solenoid of evil bay. I have a clipboard mouse but do not want to have to change fittings to size up


Sent from my iPad 3 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## sbarbee54

Anyone?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Send me the mouse solenoid....


----------



## sbarbee54

I will trade or sell it to you. I have it and a smc1200 well the whole post body


Sent from my iPad 3 using Tapatalk HD


----------



## oldpunk78

^ What don't you like about them?


----------



## sbarbee54

About the Mouse and the SMC1200, well I do not want to use a smc1200. Not as much control as I would like. I love the mouse, but I do not want to have to up the 10/32 size tot he 1/8 and create more compnents. Because I am going to run a JBJ bubble counter off it.


----------



## herns

oldpunk78 said:


> I just soldered and shrink warped the ones I got. The wiring works either way. +/- doesn't matter.


 
I was looking this on e__--Bay but I dont know if this is the correct size. Item no: 121053225975. 

Sorry, I dont have experience on this trade. I dont even have idea what soldering iron is good for once in awhile use.


----------



## scapegoat

oldpunk, would you be alright with me copying your post's content over to my aquatics wiki?


----------



## oldpunk78

^ Go for it :]


----------



## Darkblade48

herns said:


> I was looking this on e__--Bay but I dont know if this is the correct size. Item no: 121053225975.
> 
> Sorry, I dont have experience on this trade. I dont even have idea what soldering iron is good for once in awhile use.


The variety of sizes will ensure something fits 

I usually go for something about 4-5 mm in diameter. Fits well around the 14 AWG wire I use (don't forget the shrink tube has to fit around the insulation too).


----------



## herns

oldpunk78 said:


> ^ Go for it :]





Darkblade48 said:


> The variety of sizes will ensure something fits
> 
> I usually go for something about 4-5 mm in diameter. Fits well around the 14 AWG wire I use (don't forget the shrink tube has to fit around the insulation too).


Thanks guys. Youre the best!:hihi:


----------



## sbarbee54

Btail or oldpunk let me know if you come across a good deal on say a Burkert 6011 or a 2822. I am looking for one as I do not like doing size changes, as those barbs are not the best to deal with.


----------



## herns

Bettatail said:


> lucky, didn't know that the seller still had them, or you bought it in Dec, grabbed the last two?


 
No. I bought them when the seller have plenty left.


----------



## sbarbee54

What did you get herns?


----------



## oldpunk78

sbarbee54 said:


> What did you get herns?


He's talking about the 2822.

I've got a solenoid I don't need at the moment. Sending pm.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ hey hey, I also need one. You got two?


----------



## ehorn

Hello oldpunk78,

Just wanted to drop in and thank you for this guide. It was most useful in helping me along the way of selecting and assembling my regulator.

This was my parts layout:










After a few weeks of shopping out the parts (stalking ebay and other sites), the remaning parts arrived last evening and I finished assembly:










Today is leak testing day... Coming up on 6 hours now and the pressure is holding rock solid steady:










I am really looking forward to fitting it up very soon. Looks like the 2L DIY bottles are going into retirement... lol...

Thank you again for taking the time and effort to post such an informative thread for noobs like me. 

peace,


----------



## oldpunk78

Your reg looks great. I bet it works even better. I'm glad you found this thread helpful


----------



## herns

I saw one of your regs you build and shipped to Singapore.

Ive been searching for those 90 deg 1/8 male to 1/8 male brass elbow fittings but couldnt find it anywhere. I cant find the photo of your reg. I think it was an AP stainless steel reg with light blue handle. 

I know there are Parker 90 deg elbows and some others but the one you've used has a nice radius turn.


----------



## kevmo911

I think Parker elbows (technically they're CPI rather than A-lok if there's no compression fitting) are "smoother" than Swagelok elbows. But there are a ton of others out there. I assume you've checked Evilbay?


----------



## oldpunk78

herns said:


> I saw one of your regs you build and shipped to Singapore.
> 
> Ive been searching for those 90 deg 1/8 male to 1/8 male brass elbow fittings but couldnt find it anywhere. I cant find the photo of your reg. I think it was an AP stainless steel reg with light blue handle.
> 
> I know there are Parker 90 deg elbows and some others but the one you've used has a nice radius turn.


Here's one that went to Singapore:










Those elbows are just run of the mill street elbows from the hardware store.

There are at least 2 different male elbows on ebay at the moment. One is brass and the other is stainless. The part number you're looking for is SS-2-ME for the stainless and I think you'll be able to find the brass one if you search 1/8" male elbow.


----------



## herns

Yup, thats it!

The radius turn on a corner of those elbows is very nice. Ive been looking e bay since December last year but I only found 90 elbow female x male. HD, Ace & OSH in my place does not have it. 

Can you post item no or link if you find any?

I can also get 90 elbow male x female and use hex or open on the other end as an option but not very good.


----------



## Bettatail

Josh, I don't have the time to make a parts list, but contact me for what you need before evil bay.

both you and darkblade have my support.


----------



## herns

kevmo911 said:


> ...But there are a ton of others out there. I assume you've checked Evilbay?



Yup. There's lot of Parker elbow and many others on e bay as well as other online store.

I am just looking exactly the same elbow oldpunk used on his reg in the photo.


Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


----------



## Bettatail

herns said:


> Yup. There's lot of Parker elbow and many others on e bay as well as other online store.
> 
> I am just looking exactly the same elbow oldpunk used on his reg in the photo.
> 
> 
> Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2



Kevin can find a lot of parts, but takes time to understand what to get and how to search.

there are many you can get, but you have to buy large lot to save a couple dollars per unit or pay retail price if you only need several.

good luck.


----------



## oldpunk78

herns said:


> Yup. There's lot of Parker elbow and many others on e bay as well as other online store.
> 
> I am just looking exactly the same elbow oldpunk used on his reg in the photo.
> 
> 
> Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


281043087775

^ that's the one used in the above reg.


----------



## herns

Thanks for the help!

I think male x male elbow having that same corner radius does not exist on e b ay.


----------



## Darkblade48

herns said:


> Thanks for the help!
> 
> I think male x male elbow having that same corner radius does not exist on e b ay.


Are you looking for a 90 degree elbow that has a very small corner radius (i.e. bends very "quickly")? Most male to male ones I have seen are quite long and will cause components to jut out.

The one that oldpunk78 linked to are ones that I have used in the past (though I have a local supplier). I have elbows that are even more compact (i.e. even less turning radius).


----------



## herns

I already bought some after Josh posted the item no.

There are many elbows that would work. I'm just picky about the regulator aesthetics. 

Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


----------



## Kensho

Bettatail seems super busy these days, is anyone else up for building me a dual stage regulator?


----------



## herns

Josh is always around to help. You can send him pm.

Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


----------



## creekbottom

I must be doing something wrong. My air line doesn't stay connected to the JBJ bubble counter! Standard aquarium airline, regular JBJ style bubble counter off [Ebay Link Removed]


----------



## oldpunk78

Are you using the little o-ring that came with it? (goes on the line before the nut is screwed down.)


----------



## creekbottom

That was quick, thanks! That little O ring has to go on the airline? Gotcha...


----------



## newbieplanter

And the clouds parted to let the brightest of light shine through! 
THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH! 
I just wish it were on tape nosa LOL ill get to readin.


----------



## oldpunk78

newbieplanter said:


> And the clouds parted to let the brightest of light shine through!
> THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!
> I just wish it were on tape nosa LOL ill get to readin.


You are welcome. 

I've got a couple stainless projects coming up. If anyone's interested I could document the process.Lmk


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Do you even have to ask? What models did you working on?


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> What models did you working on?


^ Wut? That took me a second. lol A Swagelok and a Concoa. I keep forgetting to order my metering valve from Bill though.


----------



## Bettatail

oldpunk78 said:


> ^ Wut? That took me a second. lol A Swagelok and a Concoa. I keep forgetting to order my metering valve from Bill though.


Swagelok regulator! it is really nice, they are the same as "GO" regulator.
I have a new swagelok reg too, will build it.

a queston though, why ideal needle valve? there are so many look better and function better, they are the high precision metering valves at least double a stainless steel ideal in retail. :icon_mrgr

what kind of solenoid you are going to use? Brass or SS?

For stainless steel, 1/8 npt port type solenoids, besides the burkert 2822, burkert type 200, recently acquired a new brand XXXXXX(not yet reveal the name)


----------



## herns

I found a nice, low price bid, Praxair Heavy-Duty Gas Regulator, Model 2123381-580 on ebay. I think this Concoa reg re-branded Praxair reg.

e b ay item no: 221198595007
ending in 1 day.


----------



## kevmo911

Yeah most Praxairs I've seen are rebranded Concoa's. It looks pretty nice, though the 200 psi gauge is at the high end of ideal. 120 psi would be the max of a 200 psi 212, which is more than twice what we'd ever need. Still I use a 212 as one of my personal regs.

It's worth the price if nobody else bids much.


----------



## oldpunk78

Bettatail said:


> a queston though, why ideal needle valve? there are so many look better and function better, they are the high precision metering valves at least double a stainless steel ideal in retail. :icon_mrgr


I like them. I built a few regs with the V54-1-12 but have never personally owned one. I also really like the way they look and that was one of the biggest factors involved with using it. (probably... the cost is bothering me) Honestly, some of these really low flow models are a bit over the top as far as our needs go. 


> what kind of solenoid you are going to use? Brass or SS?


I have a couple different stainless Burkerts sitting around. A 200 series and a 6011. Not sure yet. I want to use something that I don't need to use a wall wort with.


----------



## herns

Few years ago I won 212 series on e bay for just $9.99. Shipping was about $17. Concoa regulators are just huge.


----------



## Bettatail

herns said:


> I found a nice, low price bid, Praxair Heavy-Duty Gas Regulator, Model 2123381-580 on ebay. I think this Concoa reg re-branded Praxair reg.
> 
> e b ay item no: 221198595007
> ending in 1 day.


the seller has 4 of the same model, 
after this end will be another.

take turn to grab so competition don't push up the price.
don't count me in, no more Concoa 212 for me and I need to work on the chiyoda seiki and the stainless steel Victor SGT500:biggrin:


----------



## herns

I'm done with concoa. They're just too big for me.

Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


----------



## oldpunk78

Not all concoas are huge. The 300 series is pretty compact. It's really just the 200 and 400 series that are hefty.


----------



## herns

I mean the 212 series the one I posted ^above^.

I sold the one I got on e b ay for just $9.99, brand new. List price on retail that time was over $319.

I still got the photo.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ There were deals like this? What happen? The price you sold the Concoa is less than ONE of my fittings.


----------



## AlanLe

How do you guys know the company and model of the regulator when it's rebranded? Mind to share?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

You take the model / make, and you google. Then you find the pdf and google some more.


----------



## magicmagni

Anyone know the part number of the manifold being used in this picture posted way way in the beginning of this thread...


----------



## AlanLe

Bettatail said:


> the seller has 4 of the same model,
> after this end will be another.
> 
> take turn to grab so competition don't push up the price.
> don't count me in, no more Concoa 212 for me and I need to work on the chiyoda seiki and the stainless steel Victor SGT500:biggrin:


Someone just paid $52 bucks + $12 for shipping. I just want to get a decent reg and try to build it for my own. Can't compete with you gurus.

How much should I offer for this Parker veriflo? Model IR6001Wk4XXFSIIIIB?

/\ here is the pix of the Parker reg.
View attachment 105234


----------



## Bettatail

AlanLe said:


> Someone just paid $52 bucks + $12 for shipping. I just want to get a decent reg and try to build it for my own. Can't compete with you gurus.


 Alan, it is not only the regulator, the solenoids, the metering valves and the fittings, put all together you will know it is really cost to build a complete set.
logistic supply play a big role here, know what to get, where to get and how much to get are important(build quality is equally important, or the most important), because you only see the price of a regulator, that is why for a Conca 212, $40+ is high to me, I won't pay for this regulator at this price if it is not new in the box.

and there is risk of defective parts too, have so many dead regulators alreay....
and customer service if anything goes wrong when the co2 systems in hobbyists' hand.


----------



## AlanLe

Bettatail said:


> Alan, it is not only the regulator, the solenoids, the metering valves and the fittings, put all together you will know it is really cost to build a complete set.
> logistic supply play a big role here, know what to get, where to get and how much to get are important(build quality is equally important, or the most important), because you only see the price of a regulator, that is why for a Conca 212, $40+ is high to me, I won't pay for this regulator at this price if it is not new in the box.
> 
> and there is risk of defective parts too, have so many dead regulators alreay....
> and customer service if anything goes wrong when the co2 systems in hobbyists' hand.


I figured that additional parts will add up. Thats why i didnt bother to bid at $50.


----------



## Darkblade48

magicmagni said:


> Anyone know the part number of the manifold being used in this picture posted way way in the beginning of this thread...


There is no manifold pictured here...


----------



## Bettatail

AlanLe said:


> How much should I offer for this Parker veriflo? Model IR6001Wk4XXFSIIIIB?


 if you really want to try, I will help you just like helping other fellow hobbyists who go DIY route, I will give you direction on the parts if I find any.
make sure you read enough on Darkblade and oldpunks instruction(this thread), really helpful, I will provide the detail on how to put the parts together if anything not clear.


----------



## kingjombeejoe

> Anyone know the part number of the manifold being used in this picture posted way way in the beginning of this thread...


I think the manifold is a Clippard 15490-1 http://www.clippard.com/part/15490-1 if your talking about the manifold for the solenoid valve.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Darkblade48 said:


> There is no manifold pictured here...


I think he means the blocks connecting the nv. I used to think the coil was the manifold, man that was a funny conversation in the welding store. Yo Le, that an option you can add when ordering the clippard. 


Anyways, you guys are lucky living in the states. Us Canadians have to deal with 30+ shipping charges and maybe customs and duties, it drives the price up a lot. I had to wait a year for my regulator. 

Bettatail - How often do you run into defective regulators? Are they fixable?


----------



## Bettatail

kingjombeejoe said:


> i think the manifold is a clippard 15490-1 http://www.clippard.com/part/15490-1 if your talking about the manifold for the solenoid valve.


 15490-2


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Bettatail - How often do you run into defective regulators? Are they fixable?


 dead regs on used are about 1 out of 4, and new regs(old stock), occasionally one or two, due to internal failure because the inside plastic parts fail. The Parker hannifin DSG750 series is good example, they are stainless steel units but these regs were made in the 70s and 80s, shiny regs still in the original package but plastic/rubber inside give up.

and avoid the used oxygen service regulators, much higher dead rate.

add:
if the gauge broken is ok, but diaphragm or poppet valve issue, means it is a goner, rebuild kits are high cost and hard to find compare to the price we got the regs at, and if the reg is a little bit older model, rebuild kits are virtually non exist.
that is why I avoid matheson Model 8, and the equivalent model of Scott, or fisher scientific. the old harris standard 1/2-27 thread stem are not popular but not hard to find, the real issue is these regs are too old, made in the 60s, high risk of internal failure.


----------



## kingjombeejoe

What is the difference between the 2 manifolds listed above? I almost bought the one I listed. will it not work? I noticed one was a "pilot" manifold?


Bettatail said:


> 15490-2


----------



## Bettatail

15490-1
10-32 UNF inlet, 1/8 NPT outlet.

15490-2
1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet

The mounted valves in the picture, the manifolds are 15490-2(same as the one that in the picture of Matheson miniature regulator system), I make custom port on the manifold, then add the stainless steel swagelok 1/16 npt to 1/8 npt reducing adapters, so the 15490-2 manifolds are 1/8 npt inlet and both 1/8 npt and 10-32 unf outlets


----------



## kingjombeejoe

so the inlet and outlet sizes are swapped. Thanks that's good to know. If I don't get a response about a post body someone was selling I'll have to order my own parts and I don't want to get the wrong ones.


Bettatail said:


> 15490-1
> 10-32 UNF inlet, 1/8 NPT outlet.
> 
> 15490-2
> 1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet
> 
> The mounted valves in the picture, the manifolds are 15490-2(same as the one that in the picture of Matheson miniature regulator system), I make custom port on the manifold, then add the stainless steel swagelok 1/16 npt to 1/8 npt reducing adapters, so the 15490-2 manifolds are 1/8 npt inlet and both 1/8 npt and 10-32 unf outlets


----------



## Darkblade48

kingjombeejoe said:


> I think the manifold is a Clippard 15490-1 http://www.clippard.com/part/15490-1 if your talking about the manifold for the solenoid valve.





FlyingHellFish said:


> I think he means the blocks connecting the nv. I used to think the coil was the manifold, man that was a funny conversation in the welding store.


Apologies - I guess magicmagni was referring to the solenoid manifold.

I have to stop pulling all nighters. :icon_frow


----------



## herns

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ There were deals like this? What happen? The price you sold the Concoa is less than ONE of my fittings.


Read post #220.

Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


----------



## Bettatail

herns said:


> Read post #220.
> 
> Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2





> [STRIKE]I sold the one[/STRIKE] I got on e b ay for just $9.99





> I sold the one [STRIKE]I got on e b ay[/STRIKE] for just $9.99


I thought you sold it for $9.99 too, :eek5:

I make the same mistake all the time, damn my ESL, :icon_mrgr


----------



## Darkblade48

It's ambiguous in my head too.

For example:

I sold my car I bought last year, for $5000.
I sold my car I bought last year for $5000.

I think with the comma, it definitively states that you sold the car for $5000 (regardless of purchase price).

The second sentence could go either way (you sold your car at an unknown price, while the purchase price was $5000 OR the sales price was $5000 and the purchase price was unknown).

Oh, English


----------



## herns

Bettatail said:


> I thought you sold it for $9.99 too, :eek5:
> 
> I make the same mistake all the time, damn my ESL, :icon_mrgr


 
Did not say that right. I have 10 other things running in my head when I type that. Dont worry too much about that. 

Now, send a link of a good solenoid/ metering valve deals on eeebay. LOL!


----------



## AlanLe

AlanLe said:


> Someone just paid $52 bucks + $12 for shipping. I just want to get a decent reg and try to build it for my own. Can't compete with you gurus.
> 
> How much should I offer for this Parker veriflo? Model IR6001Wk4XXFSIIIIB?
> 
> /\ here is the pix of the Parker reg.
> View attachment 105234


So the seller wants $90 plus shipping for this Parker ref. What do you guys think?


----------



## AlanLe

AlanLe said:


> So the seller wants $90 plus shipping for this Parker ref. What do you guys think?


Correct me if I'm wrong. So this is a Parker Veriflo IR6001 series. It's brand new and does not come with the gauges. So it's $90 plus shipping. What do you think?

View attachment 105658


http://www.parker.com/literature/Veriflo/25000141_ IR6000.pdf


----------



## oldpunk78

That regulator is a VCR connection regulator. If you look at the pdf you linked to, check out the ordering code. Understand how it works and then find out the specific model number for that regulator. It will tell exactly what it is. BTW, IMO it's totally worth the 90 bucks but beware you will spend more that that on the gauges and fittings you'll need for it. Bettatail has mentioned to me that you shouldn't use a VCR reg hooked up to a cylinder the normal way we do it. The reg itself needs to be mounted to something so there isn't the units weight on the connections.


----------



## ehorn

AlanLe said:


> So the seller wants $90 plus shipping for this Parker ref. What do you guys think?


I would be a buyer if the fittings were NPT, but this unit has "FS" in the model # =Face Seals and they are harder to find fittings...

IMHO, it is much easier to work with NPT fittings as they are more readily available.

Peace,


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> That regulator is a VCR connection regulator. If you look at the pdf you linked to, check out the ordering code. Understand how it works and then find out the specific model number for that regulator. It will tell exactly what it is. BTW, IMO it's totally worth the 90 bucks but beware you will spend more that that on the gauges and fittings you'll need for it. Bettatail has mentioned to me that you shouldn't use a VCR reg hooked up to a cylinder the normal way we do it. The reg itself needs to be mounted to something so there isn't the units weight on the connections.


This unit is about 3lbs. I have connected the Concoa to the cylinder and this regulator was pretty heavy too. It seemed to be fine. As for the VCR adapter, where do you mount this piece?


----------



## kevmo911

While I'm all about the really pretty SS regulators (I use a couple), I don't think we all understand that, for our purposes, there is ZERO *functional* difference between (for example) a Concoa 412 and a Matheson 9000. One is bare brass, the other is stainless steel.

If they work when we get them, new or used, there is very little chance (short of us doing something brilliant like dropping it from head height onto a concrete pad) that it will cease functioning during the time that we use it, so long as it's used intelligently.

So when we talk about the Porsche of regulators, or beautiful regulators, we're 99% talking about aesthetics. Even the 40-year-old used regs that are regularly available will very likely outlast our interest in the hobby ...assuming they work when we get them.

A gauge is a slightly different story - they're not too hard to render useless. But, then, they're easy to replace, too ...as long as we don't care too much about aesthetics.

Anyway, my advice to the new builders: Buy a Toyota Camry, not a Maserati GranTurismo. You can always upgrade later. Translated: buy something (preferably dual stage) that has appropriate, zeroed-out input and output ranges, that doesn't look too beat-up, and has a reasonable return policy. And be ready to test it quickly so as not to void that policy. If you're looking at a $100 no-gauge reg with VCR ports as your first build, please reconsider (not trying to pick on anybody, but a seemingly lot of people make this mistake).

*edit*
I should add that as an artistic imbecile, even I can appreciate the beauty of some of these things. That Matheson 9400 is gorgeous. So are a bunch of other chromed and SS models from a number of manufacturers. However, if you buy a really nice reg, regardless of price, you'll probably buy really nice gauges. That's $50-100. Then you'll want to buy all SS fittings. That's another $50. Then there's the solenoid. Unless you're lucky, or you really know what you're doing, that's another $30-50. And then the needle valve, assuming you want something nice, is yet another $30-100. Add another $50-150 for some basic accessories (tubing, fittings, check valve, bubble counter, diffuser/reactor), and ...well, I don't even want to add all that up.

Basically, the point I'm trying to make is that if you go all-out, you can find yourself spending $250-500, plus a CO2 cylinder, if you want "pretty". Halve that for a basic unit, that, while not as pretty, does the same job. If you want to start big, you'll probably want to go big all the way. That extra $100, $200, or more makes it more beautiful ...but probably not more functional. And, for most folks, that's a whole lot of cash.

One last thing - I'm talking about high-quality, industrial-strength rigs that you build yourself here, not the garbage Milwaukee, Aquatek, Azoo, and clones.


----------



## oldpunk78

Here:










^ See this connection. This is what's covered up by that blue piece in the photo. That's a VCR connection. What makes the seal here is a metal gasket sandwiched between two ends that press into it. It makes a very good seal. The adapters I found weren't any more than other stainless fitting on [Ebay Link Removed] Retail, they are a lot more. The gauges are also not cheap.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hey Oldpunk, what about the CGA320? Did you have to get an adapter for that too? Or did it look like this:









That a 946/970 series, the AK-47 as I like to call it. I took a look at the pdf on VCR and it was like reading french. I understood some of it, what made me close the pdf was taking a look at the price. Oh forgot to ask, with that thin welding fitting on the 320, is the weight not a concern?


----------



## AlanLe

Bettatail said:


> the seller has 4 of the same model,
> after this end will be another.
> 
> take turn to grab so competition don't push up the price.
> don't count me in, no more Concoa 212 for me and I need to work on the chiyoda seiki and the stainless steel Victor SGT500:biggrin:


I contacted this seller a few days ago and he agreed to sell 2 of these to me for $50. However, I guess other people contacted him after seeing this thread, now the seller does not respond to me anymore. lol it's all good 



kevmo911 said:


> While I'm all about the really pretty SS regulators (I use a couple), I don't think we all understand that, for our purposes, there is ZERO *functional* difference between (for example) a Concoa 412 and a Matheson 9000. One is bare brass, the other is stainless steel.
> 
> If they work when we get them, new or used, there is very little chance (short of us doing something brilliant like dropping it from head height onto a concrete pad) that it will cease functioning during the time that we use it, so long as it's used intelligently.
> 
> So when we talk about the Porsche of regulators, or beautiful regulators, we're 99% talking about aesthetics. Even the 40-year-old used regs that are regularly available will very likely outlast our interest in the hobby ...assuming they work when we get them.
> 
> A gauge is a slightly different story - they're not too hard to render useless. But, then, they're easy to replace, too ...as long as we don't care too much about aesthetics.
> 
> Anyway, my advice to the new builders: Buy a Toyota Camry, not a Maserati GranTurismo. You can always upgrade later. Translated: buy something (preferably dual stage) that has appropriate, zeroed-out input and output ranges, that doesn't look too beat-up, and has a reasonable return policy. And be ready to test it quickly so as not to void that policy. If you're looking at a $100 no-gauge reg with VCR ports as your first build, please reconsider (not trying to pick on anybody, but a seemingly lot of people make this mistake).


I understand your points. But if I can get a Ferrari for cheap, then why not? Just park it in the garage and slowly do the upgrades. I think you save more money this way than buying a camry, do all the upgrades then move to the Ferrari later on. I'm all about aesthetics. I pay close attention to every little details. I learn a lot more especially when I'm struggling to solve a problem rather than taking a walk in the park.



oldpunk78 said:


> Here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ See this connection. This is what's covered up by that blue piece in the photo. That's a VCR connection. What makes the seal here is a metal gasket sandwiched between two ends that press into it. It makes a very good seal. The adapters I found weren't any more than other stainless fitting on [Ebay Link Removed] Retail, they are a lot more. The gauges are also not cheap.


Thanks! I understand what you mean now. These VCR pressures gauges and fittings aint cheap. Is this what we are talking about?
http://www.swagelok.com/downloads/WebCatalogs/EN/MS-01-24.PDF


----------



## newbieplanter

kevmo911 said:


> While I'm all about the really pretty SS regulators (I use a couple), I don't think we all understand that, for our purposes, there is ZERO *functional* difference between (for example) a Concoa 412 and a Matheson 9000. One is bare brass, the other is stainless steel.
> 
> If they work when we get them, new or used, there is very little chance (short of us doing something brilliant like dropping it from head height onto a concrete pad) that it will cease functioning during the time that we use it, so long as it's used intelligently.
> 
> So when we talk about the Porsche of regulators, or beautiful regulators, we're 99% talking about aesthetics. Even the 40-year-old used regs that are regularly available will very likely outlast our interest in the hobby ...assuming they work when we get them.
> 
> A gauge is a slightly different story - they're not too hard to render useless. But, then, they're easy to replace, too ...as long as we don't care too much about aesthetics.
> 
> Anyway, my advice to the new builders: Buy a Toyota Camry, not a Maserati GranTurismo. You can always upgrade later. Translated: buy something (preferably dual stage) that has appropriate, zeroed-out input and output ranges, that doesn't look too beat-up, and has a reasonable return policy. And be ready to test it quickly so as not to void that policy. If you're looking at a $100 no-gauge reg with VCR ports as your first build, please reconsider (not trying to pick on anybody, but a seemingly lot of people make this mistake).
> 
> *edit*
> I should add that as an artistic imbecile, even I can appreciate the beauty of some of these things. That Matheson 9400 is gorgeous. So are a bunch of other chromed and SS models from a number of manufacturers. However, if you buy a really nice reg, regardless of price, you'll probably buy really nice gauges. That's $50-100. Then you'll want to buy all SS fittings. That's another $50. Then there's the solenoid. Unless you're lucky, or you really know what you're doing, that's another $30-50. And then the needle valve, assuming you want something nice, is yet another $30-100. Add another $50-150 for some basic accessories (tubing, fittings, check valve, bubble counter, diffuser/reactor), and ...well, I don't even want to add all that up.
> 
> Basically, the point I'm trying to make is that if you go all-out, you can find yourself spending $250-500, plus a CO2 cylinder, if you want "pretty". Halve that for a basic unit, that, while not as pretty, does the same job. If you want to start big, you'll probably want to go big all the way. That extra $100, $200, or more makes it more beautiful ...but probably not more functional. And, for most folks, that's a whole lot of cash.
> 
> One last thing - I'm talking about high-quality, industrial-strength rigs that you build yourself here, not the garbage Milwaukee, Aquatek, Azoo, and clones.


Dam if only I saw this post before I helped myself get a head ach from reading so much different info and opinions. I think the best way to help a newbie like myself is a listing of places to call if we can post something like that with a list of 2-3 say solieniods or needle valves, regs. I'm the type ill spend dough on it then when it's over it will just sit. I have over $10,000 in woodworking tools set up in my basement right now being neglected most everything is brand new now the aquarium stuff, before that and after woodworking BMX bikes next will be sterio equipment. Anyway Thanks for this post most of all!


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey Oldpunk, what about the CGA320? Did you have to get an adapter for that too? Or did it look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That a 946/970 series, the AK-47 as I like to call it. I took a look at the pdf on VCR and it was like reading french. I understood some of it, what made me close the pdf was taking a look at the price. Oh forgot to ask, with that thin welding fitting on the 320, is the weight not a concern?


From the regulator, I went:

1/4 vcr to 1/4 npt adapter to regular cga-320 nipple. The do make cga parts with vcr connections but they are expensive. 

I personally feel that the vcr tube is strong enough to just hold the reg's weight but perhaps not if you knocked it over. If it did break upon getting knocked over, you'd have the entire force of your cylinder spewing from the break. (Not good)


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> Here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ^ See this connection. This is what's covered up by that blue piece in the photo. That's a VCR connection. What makes the seal here is a metal gasket sandwiched between two ends that press into it. It makes a very good seal. The adapters I found weren't any more than other stainless fitting on [Ebay Link Removed] Retail, they are a lot more. The gauges are also not cheap.


By the way how do you distinguish between NPT and VCR ports just by looking at the unit? The OEM's pdf does not clearly state the port.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

You can tell by the metal welding tube, they have another funny name for it. If it doesn't come with anything, you have to look at the port. If it doesn't look like NPT, you got VCR. You know the VCR gauges alone will cost you the same as another normal NPT style regulator? 

So I actually agree with Kevmo, you can get yourself a normal regulator and find parts in Home depot. Starting off with a regulator with VCR tubing is pretty hardcore, not to mention the cost of parts if you ever needed to replace something. 

You won't even notice the difference, beside the fact that you will have an amazing beautiful regulator.


----------



## AlanLe

FlyingHellFish said:


> You can tell by the metal welding tube, they have another funny name for it. If it doesn't come with anything, you have to look at the port. If it doesn't look like NPT, you got VCR. You know the VCR gauges alone will cost you the same as another normal NPT style regulator?
> 
> So I actually agree with Kevmo, you can get yourself a normal regulator and find parts in Home depot. Starting off with a regulator with VCR tubing is pretty hardcore, not to mention the cost of parts if you ever needed to replace something.
> 
> You won't even notice the difference, beside the fact that you will have an amazing beautiful regulator.


It's just the matter of getting the right parts. The money is the issue. I have to ask myself is it worth it? I just asked the seller if he can sell 2 for $140. I'll have to pass it if he doesnt agree.


----------



## herns

Hey Josh,

This post needs your help.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showpost.php?p=2853650&postcount=1


----------



## oldpunk78

Ya, I saw it. Unfortunately, I don't really keep much post body stuff on hand anymore. :/


----------



## magicmagni

Bettatail said:


> 15490-1
> 10-32 UNF inlet, 1/8 NPT outlet.
> 
> 15490-2
> 1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet
> 
> The mounted valves in the picture, the manifolds are 15490-2(same as the one that in the picture of Matheson miniature regulator system), I make custom port on the manifold, then add the stainless steel swagelok 1/16 npt to 1/8 npt reducing adapters, so the 15490-2 manifolds are 1/8 npt inlet and both 1/8 npt and 10-32 unf outlets


I went and ordered a bag of the manifold from Clippard. Part number 15490-2
1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet. I was confused because the picture you post shows 1/8 npt inlet and outlet which is ideal for me as I intend to put a fabco metering valve after the solenoid which is 1/8 NPT male. So I don't understand how you "make a custom 1/8npt outlet" The only way I can figure is to use a male to male 5/32 adapter paired with a 5/32 female to 1/8 NPT male bushing? If I can avoid all of that somehow it would be great.


----------



## Darkblade48

magicmagni said:


> I went and ordered a bag of the manifold from Clippard. Part number 15490-2
> 1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet. I was confused because the picture you post shows 1/8 npt inlet and outlet which is ideal for me as I intend to put a fabco metering valve after the solenoid which is 1/8 NPT male. So I don't understand *how you "make a custom 1/8npt outlet" *The only way I can figure is to use a male to male 5/32 adapter paired with a 5/32 female to 1/8 NPT male bushing? If I can avoid all of that somehow it would be great.


You have to tap a 1/8" hole.


----------



## kevmo911

magicmagni said:


> I went and ordered a bag of the manifold from Clippard. Part number 15490-2
> 1/8 NPT inlet, 10-32 UNF outlet. I was confused because the picture you post shows 1/8 npt inlet and outlet which is ideal for me as I intend to put a fabco metering valve after the solenoid which is 1/8 NPT male. So I don't understand how you "make a custom 1/8npt outlet" The only way I can figure is to use a male to male 5/32 adapter paired with a 5/32 female to 1/8 NPT male bushing? If I can avoid all of that somehow it would be great.


Other than drilling and tapping your own port (which gets even more complicated because the mount isn't big enough for a standard size 1/8 female port), your option is to order a 10-32 nipple and 10-32 to 1/8 adapter. But that nipple is tiny, and nobody is gonna recommend hanging anything with any weight on it (and certainly not your Fabco NV-55-18, which is huge). You can get the 10-32 stainless close nipple for extra strength, but, while it's in the Clippard catalog, you can't order it online - you'll have to give your retailer a call. And I still wouldn't trust it with the nv you want to use.

The likely cheapest and easiest option is to get a 10-32 to 1/8" hose barb, attach it to the outlet of the mount, and just run the needle valve inline. Attach 1/8" NPT to 1/8" barbs to both ports on the Fabco.

The mouse is an excellent solenoid. But that mount, with the 10-32 outlet port, severely limits what you can do with the Mouse outside of some modifications.


----------



## magicmagni

kevmo911 said:


> Other than drilling and tapping your own port (which gets even more complicated because the mount isn't big enough for a standard size 1/8 female port), your option is to order a 10-32 nipple and 10-32 to 1/8 adapter. But that nipple is tiny, and nobody is gonna recommend hanging anything with any weight on it (and certainly not your Fabco NV-55-18, which is huge). You can get the 10-32 stainless close nipple for extra strength, but, while it's in the Clippard catalog, you can't order it online - you'll have to give your retailer a call. And I still wouldn't trust it with the nv you want to use.
> 
> The likely cheapest and easiest option is to get a 10-32 to 1/8" hose barb, attach it to the outlet of the mount, and just run the needle valve inline. Attach 1/8" NPT to 1/8" barbs to both ports on the Fabco.
> 
> The mouse is an excellent solenoid. But that mount, with the 10-32 outlet port, severely limits what you can do with the Mouse outside of some modifications.


I have used that solenoid before and it rock solid. I do have that nipple you refer to but I agree its not that strong and prone to leaking. The good news is that the shorter stainless one you also refer to is now available on their site in a bag of five. Since I have the bushing already I was thinking to use the ss nipple to tighten the bushing against the manifold. Perhaps its a good idea to use red loctite on that connection? From that I have a female npt ss elbow and then the fabco valve with barb. No bubble counter.


----------



## herns

oldpunk78 said:


> I believe your Aiproducts unit already has a filter in the high pressure 'in' port.


Hey Josh,

Are Airproducts regulators mostly for general use? I havent seen an AP regulators for use on welding or argon.


----------



## oldpunk78

herns said:


> Hey Josh,
> 
> Are Airproducts regulators mostly for general use? I havent seen an AP regulators for use on welding or argon.


I'm not sure. There are a number that retail pretty cheaply. (I guess that's relative...) I would imagine they have a complete line.

Check this out:



















A concoa re-branded by linde and then re-branded again by airgas. That doesn't seem cost effective. :/


----------



## kevmo911

Maybe we're all competing with a team of AirGas personnel, searching for good buys on the 'bay. The difference is they have custom stickers to slap on


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Deeper, we need to go deeper. Linde is dreaming that it's a Airgas but it's really a Conoca. We just scratched the surface here, keep peeling the layers Josh, maybe it's a Victor.


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Deeper, we need to go deeper. Linde is dreaming that it's a Airgas but it's really a Conoca. We just scratched the surface here, keep peeling the layers Josh, maybe it's a Victor.


keep peeling you will end up seeing the mark of made in China :icon_eek:

it is a joke, but a lot of items, parts are actually manufacture in China, just don't have the mark of " Make in China".
such parts are strictly US standard quality control, and only for sale in the US, means even if it is made in China, a customer from China have to buy from the US.
like iphone.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I started peeling off the sticker and this is what I found, I guess mine made in Germany.


----------



## Mathman

You are too funny.


----------



## Darkblade48

This is like "Inception" - a brand of regulators within another brand! 

Nice going with the BMW sticker, it made my afternoon


----------



## AlanLe

Does anyone know where the part "B-2-HN" connect to?
So I think these are the parts I need:
Optional:
B-4-HLN-2.00
B-4-RSE-2
SOlenoid
B-2-ME
<Needle/Metering Valve>
B-2-HN <----------------------Not sure where this one connects to.
B-2C2-1/3 
<JBJ Bubble Counter>

http://www.barrreport.com/showthrea...regulator-part-numbers-sources-and-other-tips


----------



## oldpunk78

What regulator are you building on?


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> What regulator are you building on?



I bought a stainless steel Concoa 432 (thanks to Bettatail's link) and an Air Products E12-244F.


----------



## oldpunk78

Ok, and it looks like you want to do a 90 degree style build.

B-4-HLN-2.00
B-4-RSE-2
SOlenoid
B-2-ME 
<Needle/Metering Valve> 
B-2-HN <----------------------Not sure where this one connects to. 
B-2C2-1/3 
<JBJ Bubble Counter> 

The b-2-hn is just a 1/8 hex nipple. It's not needed for this set up. This set up also assumes you'll be using a female 1/8 solenoid and an angle version 1/8 metering valve with female ports.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

How do you guys with those Conoca take off the twist knob?


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> Ok, and it looks like you want to do a 90 degree style build.
> 
> B-4-HLN-2.00
> B-4-RSE-2
> SOlenoid
> B-2-ME
> <Needle/Metering Valve>
> B-2-HN <----------------------Not sure where this one connects to.
> B-2C2-1/3
> <JBJ Bubble Counter>
> 
> The b-2-hn is just a 1/8 hex nipple. It's not needed for this set up. This set up also assumes you'll be using a female 1/8 solenoid and an angle version 1/8 metering valve with female ports.


Thanks Oldpunk! Swagelok of Northern Cali is 20 mins of driving from where I live. Can I just go there and buy the parts?


----------



## creekbottom

Best to call first. I know my Swagelok dealer doesn't always have everything I want but they sure do get it quick.


----------



## Bettatail

AlanLe said:


> Thanks Oldpunk! Swagelok of Northern Cali is 20 mins of driving from where I live. Can I just go there and buy the parts?


don't forget to ask them the stainless steel CGA 320 nipple and nut, when you are in Sunnyvale. 
and you can check the price of these fittings, big different of brass and stainless steel.

as for swagelok metering valve, hunt one down from evil bay first, then order the adapter fittings, also from Sunnyvale, make sure don't get the VCR port metering valve, VCR adapter fittings are expensive.


----------



## Bettatail

see what I received in the mail today, holly luya


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> How do you guys with those Conoca take off the twist knob?


Sticker removal, I guess. I've never needed to remove one...


----------



## AlanLe

Will this needle valve work for our application?

http://www.swagelok.com/search/find_products_home.aspx?part=B-SS1-A


----------



## oldpunk78

Ya, but you'd need a few adapters and would have to run it inline. No mounting that one.


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> Ya, but you'd need a few adapters and would have to run it inline. No mounting that one.


a few adapters?


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> a few adapters?


Sorry, 2 to be specific :/

You'd need 2) 1/16 tube adapters to 1/8 barb. Or 1/16 tube to 1/4 tube depending on how you'd want to do it.


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> Sorry, 2 to be specific :/
> 
> You'd need 2) 1/16 tube adapters to 1/8 barb. Or 1/16 tube to 1/4 tube depending on how you'd want to do it.


Yeah i saw the picture in the other post.


----------



## AlanLe

Bettatail said:


> don't forget to ask them the stainless steel CGA 320 nipple and nut, when you are in Sunnyvale.
> and you can check the price of these fittings, big different of brass and stainless steel.
> 
> as for swagelok metering valve, hunt one down from evil bay first, then order the adapter fittings, also from Sunnyvale, make sure don't get the VCR port metering valve, VCR adapter fittings are expensive.


The angle Swagelok metering valve is expensive. I like the Ideal metering valve. Im thinking of powder coating the whole system matte black even the canister.


----------



## kevmo911

The Ideal is a good valve. In my experience, the Swagelok S series is more precise. Unfortunately, without a (much larger) metered handle, the S series might actually *seem* less precise (larger handle means a longer distance traveled around the circumference for the same fraction of a turn). In any case, there's somebody with a few SS-SS4-A (1/4" tube fittings, so you'd need at least one adapter) on the 'bay for about $81 shipped, which is similar to an Ideal. And it's stainless steel.

However, you'd probably want to spring for a Vernier handle, which is another (I forget, but maybe) $25 new from Swagelok. That'd bring the cost up well over that of an Ideal ...though the SS Ideal would still be a bit more than that.

Or you could just go cheap and simple and get a Fabco and be done with it


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ That Parker H3 was such a ridiculous deal, I forgot how expensive metering valves were. I kind of skip over the whole researching about metering valve, what you guys think about those SMC needle valves?

I saw some for 3 - 5 dollars on fleabay, it was pretty good. Never got them though, they look EXACTLY like the ADA one.


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ That Parker H3 was such a ridiculous deal, I forgot how expensive metering valves were. I kind of skip over the whole researching about metering valve, what you guys think about those SMC needle valves?
> 
> I saw some for 3 - 5 dollars on fleabay, it was pretty good. Never got them though, they look EXACTLY like the ADA one.


ADA use SMC AS2000 series needle valve, the SMC AS1000 series we use is better, lol,


----------



## Bettatail

kevmo911 said:


> The Ideal is a good valve. In my experience, the Swagelok S series is more precise. Unfortunately, without a (much larger) metered handle, the S series might actually *seem* less precise (larger handle means a longer distance traveled around the circumference for the same fraction of a turn). In any case, there's somebody with a few SS-SS4-A (1/4" tube fittings, so you'd need at least one adapter) on the 'bay for about $81 shipped, which is similar to an Ideal. And it's stainless steel.
> 
> However, you'd probably want to spring for a Vernier handle, which is another (I forget, but maybe) $25 new from Swagelok. That'd bring the cost up well over that of an Ideal ...though the SS Ideal would still be a bit more than that.
> 
> Or you could just go cheap and simple and get a Fabco and be done with it


not receive my PM? told you it is time to supply the Parkers.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hopefully Bettatail has another deal in the works? Maybe a deal on a solenoid? Uhmm?


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hopefully Bettatail has another deal in the works? Maybe a deal on a solenoid? Uhmm?


you are obligated to pass the good news when the time come.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Just give me the nod, and it shall be done.


----------



## sukebe

Please share, I need two good solenoids for a build myself...


----------



## kingjombeejoe

Now, I'm wondering what you guys are talking about.


----------



## AlanLe

Can we substitute SS-2C2-1/3 with another part? This part is really expensive.


----------



## oldpunk78

^ the ones just like that one with tube connections are usually readily available on fleabay. That's what I've been using...


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> ^ the ones just like that one with tube connections are usually readily available on fleabay. That's what I've been using...


I'll on fleabay. Maybe I'll get lucky


----------



## kevmo911

SS-4C-1/3 ideally, but SS-4C-1 should work fine as well. And you can probably get one or more of them for $20-ish shipped. But you'll need tubing inserts designed for standard 1/4" OD by 1/8" ID tubing. Swagelok # is SS-405-2.


----------



## Bettatail

Good news arrived.


----------



## AlanLe

Bettatail said:


> Good news arrived.


What is it?


----------



## AlanLe

kevmo911 said:


> SS-4C-1/3 ideally, but SS-4C-1 should work fine as well. And you can probably get one or more of them for $20-ish shipped. But you'll need tubing inserts designed for standard 1/4" OD by 1/8" ID tubing. Swagelok # is SS-405-2.


Will the JBJ bubble counter fit with SS-4C-1?


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Will the JBJ bubble counter fit with SS-4C-1?


Yes, but it will be very tall and you'll need two tube adapters for mounting it. You'd be better off with a glass bubble counter.


----------



## kevmo911

*SS-2C2=1/3*:
SS = Stainless Steel 316.
2C = 1/8" check valve.
2 = male NPT threads 4 = female.
1/3 = 1/3 psi cracking pressure.

*SS-4C-1/3*:
SS = stainless steel 316
4C = 1/4" check valve
no suffix after the 4C = compression fittings.
1/3 = 1/3 psi cracking pressure

So the SS-4C-1/3 is designed to work with either metal or soft tubing. If you were determined to run it mounted, you could do two SS-4-TA-1-2, which will add maybe 1 1/2 inches to the height of the valve.

I'd still recommend running it inline, and a bubble counter (not a JBJ-style, I strongly feel that they're complete garbage) also inline. Though I suppose you could use one adapter at the top of the check valve and screw a JBJ onto it, running both of them inline.


----------



## aquatico 7

*CO2 Regulator Assembly*

Is there any CO2 regulator assembly available for sale. I'm looking for one for my new 70gal freshwater natural aquarium. 
Thansk.
Peter.


----------



## newbieplanter

aquatico 7 said:


> Is there any CO2 regulator assembly available for sale. I'm looking for one for my new 70gal freshwater natural aquarium.
> Thansk.
> Peter.


There are some in the forsale section!


----------



## AlanLe

Does anyone know which hardware goes into the IR port? 
View attachment 114202


----------



## AlanLe

kevmo911 said:


> *SS-2C2=1/3*:
> SS = Stainless Steel 316.
> 2C = 1/8" check valve.
> 2 = male NPT threads 4 = female.
> 1/3 = 1/3 psi cracking pressure.
> 
> *SS-4C-1/3*:
> SS = stainless steel 316
> 4C = 1/4" check valve
> no suffix after the 4C = compression fittings.
> 1/3 = 1/3 psi cracking pressure
> 
> So the SS-4C-1/3 is designed to work with either metal or soft tubing. If you were determined to run it mounted, you could do two SS-4-TA-1-2, which will add maybe 1 1/2 inches to the height of the valve.
> 
> I'd still recommend running it inline, and a bubble counter (not a JBJ-style, I strongly feel that they're complete garbage) also inline. Though I suppose you could use one adapter at the top of the check valve and screw a JBJ onto it, running both of them inline.


Thanks for the info. Very useful for me.


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Does anyone know which hardware goes into the IR port?
> View attachment 114202


Is it just the photo or is that port not threaded? An expanded pic should help more as well.


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> Is it just the photo or is that port not threaded? An expanded pic should help more as well.


This is the port next to the low pressure port. It's labeled as IR. btw this is the stainless steel concoa 432 that i got for $25.


----------



## oldpunk78

The relief valve would go there.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

AlanLe said:


> This is the port next to the low pressure port. It's labeled as IR. btw this is the stainless steel concoa 432 that i got for $25.



 Wait what? Please tell me you pay 100 for shipping on top of the 25 dollars.


----------



## AlanLe

FlyingHellFish said:


> Wait what? Please tell me you pay 100 for shipping on top of the 25 dollars.


No, it was $37 with shipping, which is isnt bad for this one.


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> The relief valve would go there.


Thats what I thought. This regulator has 6 ports total. High pressure port, high pressure gauge, low pressure gauge, low pressure outlet, IR, and another one next to it. btw can I find this relief valve?


----------



## AlanLe

I think it's the low pressure relief vavle. The one next to it is high pressure relief valve? 

Will this one work for the low pressure?
http://tinyurl.com/c67jwml


----------



## oldpunk78

It doesn't really need to be there. I usually just put a plug there. Any welding supply will have them.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Wish we had that kind of deal up north, but the plus side is when there is a regulator it's almost new in box. I even got the box, wrapping and manual that came with it. But then again, I spent way - way - way - way more than 37 dollars.


----------



## AlanLe

FlyingHellFish said:


> Wish we had that kind of deal up north, but the plus side is when there is a regulator it's almost new in box. I even got the box, wrapping and manual that came with it. But then again, I spent way - way - way - way more than 37 dollars.


Yeah this one doesnt come with anything. Check ebay! Most of us got our stuff up there. Or check with betatail


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I will never tell anyone how much I payed for my Matheson, I am too ashamed.

Also, wasn't there more people building their own regulators? I remember some other guy making a Concoa 212?


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> It doesn't really need to be there. I usually just put a plug there. Any welding supply will have them.


Really? Thought you need some specific part.


----------



## AlanLe

aquatico 7 said:


> Is there any CO2 regulator assembly available for sale. I'm looking for one for my new 70gal freshwater natural aquarium.
> Thansk.
> Peter.


I think Oldfunk sell them.


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Really? Thought you need some specific part.


Not most of the time. I had one of those that came plugged from the factory.


----------



## AlanLe

Im thinking picking up a Swagelok SS-1RM4-S4-A for $40.


----------



## kevmo911

Don't do that. The 1 series is unsuited to our use. It's designed for much higher flow rates than we use. Check Bettatail's metering valves sticky in the equipment section. From Swagelok, you're going to want an S, M, 21/22, or certain 0 series models.

I also have some Parker HR3's I stocked up on. PM me if you're interested.


----------



## newbieplanter

kevmo911 said:


> Don't do that. The 1 series is unsuited to our use. It's designed for much higher flow rates than we use. Check Bettatail's metering valves sticky in the equipment section. From Swagelok, you're going to want an S, M, 21/22, or certain 0 series models.
> 
> I also have some Parker HR3's I stocked up on. PM me if you're interested.


So a A-1RM4-A is no good either right?


----------



## herns

AlanLe said:


> No, it was $37 with shipping, which is isnt bad for this one.



If you want to build good looking reg, take a look of some oldpunk's reg photos to give you some idea. 

They're the good ones I've seen. (and even copied, too.lol)

Sent from HTC One device using Tapatalk2


----------



## AlanLe

How about swaqelok b2ma nedle valve?


----------



## Mathman

I will be putting together a VTS 450D regulator...I would like to use a splitter so that I can use the reg for two tanks. 

The reg has the outlet port at the 7 o'clock position and this could be a difficult position to work with when it comes to the aesthetics of the build.

I took pics of what I came up with...please disregard the parts as the reg and NVs won't be part of the build. All the fittings and the solenoid will stay. Let me know if you have any other ideas as to how I can make this work to build a reg that it is not only functional but aesthetically pleasing too.


A:










B:










C:










D:










Suggestions?


----------



## Bettatail

Mathman said:


> I will be putting together a VTS 450D regulator...I would like to use a splitter so that I can use the reg for two tanks.
> 
> The reg has the outlet port at the 7 o'clock position and this could be a difficult position to work with when it comes to the aesthetics of the build.
> 
> I took pics of what I came up with...please disregard the parts as the reg and NVs won't be part of the build. All the fittings and the solenoid will stay. Let me know if you have any other ideas as to how I can make this work to build a reg that it is not only functional but aesthetically pleasing too.
> 
> 
> A:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> B:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> C:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Suggestions?


 Nice work! this thing look golden.


----------



## Mathman

Thanks buddy...which of them do you think is the best arrangement?


----------



## creekbottom

I like D


----------



## Bettatail

AlanLe said:


> How about swaqelok b2ma nedle valve?


 B-2MA?

it is swagelok Zinc plated M series angle pattern metering valve, should be ok.
but the 2 means it is 1/8" compression tube port connection, need adapters.


----------



## Mathman

creekbottom said:


> I like D


Thanks.

I'd like to use bubble counters (Ill have to purchase check valves)

Maybe something like this?


----------



## Bettatail

Mathman said:


> Thanks buddy...which of them do you think is the best arrangement?


 Picture one?

the Victor VTS250 is bottom outlet, the angle make the parts of postbody kind of hard to arrange. 

with an extra elbow fitting you can make the postbody even better, I think Oldpunk had a set with VTS 250, nice arrangement, ask him to find the picture.
here is one of the set(VTS250), two outputs that I built, but different parts for the postbody.


----------



## Mathman

Bettatail said:


> Picture one?
> 
> the Victor VTS250 is bottom outlet, the angle make the parts of postbody kind of hard to arrange.
> 
> with an extra elbow fitting you can make the postbody even better, I think Oldpunk had a set with VTS 250, nice arrangement, ask him to find the picture.
> here is one of the set(VTS250), two outputs that I built, but different parts for the postbody.


What elbow fitting do you have on the outlet?


----------



## AlanLe

Bettatail said:


> B-2MA?
> 
> it is swagelok Zinc plated M series angle pattern metering valve, should be ok.
> but the 2 means it is 1/8" compression tube port connection, need adapters.


Im so lost in these fitting stuff . Btw how much is a used victor vts250 worth? If you are going to make an offer. I love the way this reg looks.


----------



## Darkblade48

AlanLe said:


> How about swaqelok b2ma nedle valve?


As Bettatail mentioned, this one will work, you just need the adapters.



Mathman said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I'd like to use bubble counters (Ill have to purchase check valves)
> 
> Maybe something like this?


This is similar to how I arranged my VTS250. If you use multiple elbows, it will look nicer. 45 degree works OK, but if you can find a 60 or 75 degree, it will be even better.



AlanLe said:


> Im so lost in these fitting stuff . Btw how much is a used victor vts250 worth? If you are going to make an offer. I love the way this reg looks.


Depends 

I am located in Canada, so naturally, I have to pay a higher price for them.


----------



## Bettatail

Mathman said:


> Thanks.
> 
> I'd like to use bubble counters (Ill have to purchase check valves)
> 
> Maybe something like this?


 look good!
no need extra check valves, the build in check valves in the JBJ bubble counters are pretty good.


----------



## Bettatail

Darkblade48 said:


> I am located in Canada, so naturally, I have to pay a higher price for them.


 depends, sometimes some of the high quality items show up on your side of the border, good price too.
:icon_lol:

the problem now is industrial PMI is high, the producing machines in the North America are pushing higher speed, industrial grade parts price high, high, and higher.
Good for the economy but harder to find parts, no wonder GLA co2 system price jump:confused1:


----------



## Bettatail

Mathman said:


> What elbow fitting do you have on the outlet?


 1. 1/4 mnpt to 1/8 fnpt bushing
2. 90 degree 1/8 m/f npt elbow
3. 45 degree 1/8 m/f npt elbow
4. 1 1/2 long 1/8 npt nipple
5. 1/8 fnpt elbow
then the clippard manifold, two clippard mouse and two Hoke millimite metering valves.


----------



## creekbottom

Bettatail said:


> no need extra check valves, the build in check valves in the JBJ bubble counters are pretty good.


What?! Everything I have ever read - anywhere - states that the built in check valve on JBJ bubble counters or the knock off's, are crap.


----------



## Bettatail

creekbottom said:


> What?! Everything I have ever read - anywhere - states that the built in check valve on JBJ bubble counters or the knock off's, are crap.


 the check valves in the older series of JBJ bubble counter did have some issue and cases of failure report had been made, but as you can see today, the check valve is newer chrome plated metal in all JBJ bubble counters.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

creekbottom said:


> What?! Everything I have ever read - anywhere - states that the built in check valve on JBJ bubble counters or the knock off's, are crap.


The knock offs are in my experience pretty decent. I tried every way to get water to leak out of the thing. You can always run a cheap in line check valve just in case.

You got a in line check valve, oil in bubble counter and then the built in check valve, I'm not sure where it go wrong.


----------



## Darkblade48

creekbottom said:


> What?! Everything I have ever read - anywhere - states that the built in check valve on JBJ bubble counters or the knock off's, are crap.


The actual JBJ bubble counters have good check valves (in my experience). I cannot vouch for the cheaper knock offs.



FlyingHellFish said:


> The knock offs are in my experience pretty decent. I tried every way to get water to leak out of the thing. You can always run a cheap in line check valve just in case.
> 
> You got a in line check valve, oil in bubble counter and then the built in check valve, I'm not sure where it go wrong.


I'm not quite sure how you are running the bubble counter; are you suggesting to run them in line (how else would an inline check valve prevent liquid (whether it be water, oil, glycerin, etc) in the bubble counter from flowing back into the needle valve and solenoid?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ ?

You just run a cheap-o check valve in line, just in case. 

Metering Valve -> Bubble Counter (built in check valve, oil) - > tube - > cheap check valve - > tube.


----------



## Mathman

Here's another arrangement:










What do you guys think?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Just out of curiosity, why are these Victor the holy grail of regulators? I see the same model and make, is it because they are rare? Sort of like an older model car that is iconic?


----------



## Mathman

Don't know the answer to that question. But the reg on the pic (vts 250C) is not the one I'll be using. I'm getting the big poppa....VTS 450D.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

You can run some cheap check valves in line, like this


----------



## Mathman

I've tried some plastic check valves and they don't work...where did you get yours?


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Just out of curiosity, why are these Victor the holy grail of regulators? I see the same model and make, is it because they are rare? Sort of like an older model car that is iconic?


 VTS series are Victor quality, and availability(too many in welding serive).
due to many, some used are broken.....:hihi:


----------



## AlanLe

FlyingHellFish said:


> Just out of curiosity, why are these Victor the holy grail of regulators? I see the same model and make, is it because they are rare? Sort of like an older model car that is iconic?


Dont know why but look is very nice. Like a timeless piece of art.


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ ?
> 
> You just run a cheap-o check valve in line, just in case.
> 
> Metering Valve -> Bubble Counter (built in check valve, oil) - > tube - > cheap check valve - > tube.


Ah, I was referring to was to place a check valve between the bubble counter and the needle/metering valve to prevent backflow.

This is usually done because the JBJ knockoffs will have poorer built in check valves.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Just out of curiosity, why are these Victor the holy grail of regulators? I see the same model and make, is it because they are rare? Sort of like an older model car that is iconic?


These are not the holy grail. They have just been popularized more so than other brands. You can chalk it up to folks hearing something and running with it. These were more common on eBay and could be had cheap a few years ago. That was the main reason for their popularity.


----------



## vnghost

So what is the holy grail?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## oldpunk78

vnghost said:


> So what is the holy grail?
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


I guess that's really a personal call when you've figured out what is important for you. A high end stainless unit comes to mind for me. Like the Matheson untraline or parker ir6000 or the victor sgt. I just built a stainless concoa I really like. I'm also in the middle of doing a Swagelok stainless build. The stainless Swagelok is sexy... I guess it really boils down to form and functionality.


----------



## herns

AlanLe said:


> Dont know why but look is very nice. Like a timeless piece of art.


One thing I like Victor is they are smaller than most regulators. Their size is even smaller than good looking AP regs.

Here's the comparison between Concoa's 212 and Victor 253A. You can see how BIG Concoa is.

There's some good deal of Concoa 212 lately on e b ay but I stayed away because its size.


----------



## Mathman

It all comes down to personal preference like Josh mentioned. I like the larger regs as they look "hardcore"


----------



## herns

Not only personal but also depends on how much space there is for the pressurized set up. 

I have a tight space for a setup that there is no way a Concoa 212 or AP would fit. Victor fits nicely leaving a small soffit gap from the two gauges about 25mm to 30mm.

I have 3 of that Victor VTS and one 1993, NIB.


----------



## Bettatail

oldpunk78 said:


> I guess that's really a personal call when you've figured out what is important for you. A high end stainless unit comes to mind for me. Like the Matheson untraline or parker ir6000 or the victor sgt. I just built a stainless concoa I really like. I'm also in the middle of doing a Swagelok stainless build. The stainless Swagelok is sexy... I guess it really boils down to form and functionality.


got the SS SMC solenoid and the DIN connector yet?

I've already tried one, very nice quality and low heat, feels warm when touch though, it is SS shell and metal transfer heat faster.
The swagelok regulator is nice, can't wait to see the picture of yours.
Have to put off the chiyoda seiki project and start the Victor SGT, got two version of the SGT on hand, waiting to be tested and built.


----------



## Bettatail

herns said:


> I have 3 of that Victor VTS and one 1993, NIB.


collecting dust?
build them and show the pictures, TPT need your contribution.


----------



## kevmo911

There are some fairly cheap VTS250's on the 'bay. They're a smaller version of the 450's with a few differences. You can probably find 450's for cheaper at the moment, but that changes regularly.

I used a VTS450 for a while, but it's been removed and is waiting for a replacement at the moment. Just too big.

You know, I grabbed a Matheson 3104 from my junk pile, and realized that the old Victor VTS450 I have is nearly identical to the Matheson 3104, without the chrome.

One other comment - the VTS450 I have (which is pretty old) and my VTS250 (new) have outlets at different positions. The 250 is at maybe 7 o'clock, but the 450 is closer to 8 o'clock.

Here's a couple pics:

















And then here's the VTS450 and 3104








This one's horrible, but the backs are completely identical:


----------



## Mathman

I wonder who came up with the design first. I still like the golden look of the VTS.


----------



## AlanLe

Just got this one from [Ebay Link Removed] I just love the design of this Victor. 
View attachment 116754


----------



## herns

Bettatail said:


> collecting dust?
> build them and show the pictures, TPT need your contribution.


Yup, collecting dust!

Haven't building regs for about 6-8 mos now. What I have on the photos on oldpunk's thread "Show me your regulator" is all the same configuration. Nothing new to share. 

I am more collecting red plants for the time being than building regulators.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Bettatail said:


> got the SS SMC solenoid and the DIN connector yet?
> 
> I've already tried one, very nice quality and low heat, feels warm when touch though, it is SS shell and metal transfer heat faster.


I'm dying to see how these post body look with the SMC Solenoids. Also, you can get a solenoid with a cover like the SMC VQ series where the heat is inside but it's way bigger and bulky compare to the VDW series. 

Hopefully we see some new pictures from Tails or Oldpunk, I think it going to be great.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> I'm dying to see how these post body look with the SMC Solenoids. Also, you can get a solenoid with a cover like the SMC VQ series where the heat is inside but it's way bigger and bulky compare to the VDW series.
> 
> Hopefully we see some new pictures from Tails or Oldpunk, I think it going to be great.


I'll do a mock-up for you if betta doesn't get a pic out there first. He sent me one the other day. They look pretty nice. Kinda like a bigger mouse with a 1/8 manifold.


----------



## herns

Bettatail said:


> collecting dust?
> build them and show the pictures, TPT need your contribution.


 
Any metering valves and solenoids good buys to share from e b a y after parker? lol


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Bettatail has something in the works, very nice solenoid with regards to size/power. It might just be another Parker H3 deal, very promising for the DIY.


----------



## AlanLe

Just saying but if someone can write up a Swagelok/Parker fitting guide that explains 1/4, 1/8 mntp, fntp and so on means. It would be beneficial to all of us noobies &#55357;&#56835;.


----------



## newbieplanter

AlanLe said:


> Just saying but if someone can write up a Swagelok/Parker fitting guide that explains 1/4, 1/8 mntp, fntp and so on means. It would be beneficial to all of us noobies ��.


I gotta second this I'm at the same stage now! 5 months of running DIY CO2 it works but I don't like it. No disrespect but I would have never joined this site if I knew I had to go to google or another place for answers. I joined to help an get help.

Well this is my reason for needing help, this is what I got so far n mind u I'm just tring to get CO2 to my tank trust me no one is gonna see it an say "wow that looks cool!" I kno none of these are right tho also I'm still waiting to get my solieniod.


----------



## creekbottom

Wikipedia does a pretty good job of explaining NPT (M and F are just male, female) and of course the sizes. It also explains other threads too, I don't remember what they were called but there was a British one, and some others.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> I'm dying to see how these post body look with the SMC Solenoids. Also, you can get a solenoid with a cover like the SMC VQ series where the heat is inside but it's way bigger and bulky compare to the VDW series.
> 
> Hopefully we see some new pictures from Tails or Oldpunk, I think it going to be great.


Here:


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> Here:


Saweet


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Thanks for the pictures and nice looking build. That solenoid add a nice clean touch. No more funky and big solenoids with 4+ watts. A month ago, we were all talking about a small yet low power solenoid with 1/8 ports, this could be "THEE" solenoid to get. 

How warm would you say it is compare to other ones? You haven't hook it up yet have you Josh?


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Thanks for the pictures and nice looking build. That solenoid add a nice clean touch. No more funky and big solenoids with 4+ watts. A month ago, we were all talking about a small yet low power solenoid with 1/8 ports, this could be "THEE" solenoid to get.
> 
> How warm would you say it is compare to other ones? You haven't hook it up yet have you Josh?


I haven't tried it out yet. I still need another 24vdc adapter.


----------



## Mathman

Look at what just arrived...


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Nice score! That looks really clean and new, I guess you got another build on your hands. Its good timing, SMC solenoid going to be available soon. 

Hey Josh, what kind of DC adapter would it look like? Would it be the one with various plugs? I have a spare one lying around but have no idea how to connect them. 

How would you hook that up?


----------



## Mathman

It looks brand new...I hope it works like a new unit too. 



BTW, it is a pain in the ass to remove the cga.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Tell me about it! I remember PMing you about removing those darn gauges. The only piece I didn't remove myself was the CGA 580 connection, the welding store did it for me with no charge. 

Speaking of removing gauges, I think I have to remove my LP gauge for the post body. Just have to wait till those SMC come in and then I can try to macguyer some way to connect the pieces. 

I think this is an awesome time for custom builds, we got the Parker H3 and soon the SMC SS. Good times ahead fellas, good times.


----------



## Bettatail

Mathman said:


> Look at what just arrived...


looks like gold. :icon_lol:


----------



## Mathman

A golden grenade!


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Nice score! That looks really clean and new, I guess you got another build on your hands. Its good timing, SMC solenoid going to be available soon.
> 
> Hey Josh, what kind of DC adapter would it look like? Would it be the one with various plugs? I have a spare one lying around but have no idea how to connect them.
> 
> How would you hook that up?


24V DC power supply, from evil bay, about $4.50 a piece.


----------



## Bettatail

Mathman said:


> A golden grenade!


blasting gold nuggets. :icon_lol:


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey Josh, what kind of DC adapter would it look like? Would it be the one with various plugs? I have a spare one lying around but have no idea how to connect them.
> 
> How would you hook that up?


You would just be looking for a low amperage 24vdc wall wort. (preferably switching) I solder and shrink wrap the wires.


----------



## Mathman

I was not successful in removing the cga on this VTS 450D. Ill have to take it to my local mechanic and ask to see if he could remove them for me.

Meanwhile,

Here's my decision on the post body:




























It uses the least amount of fittings and is as close to the regulator as possible with a nice clean look in my opinion. What do you guys think? I will be using two fabco NV-55-18 metering valves and two 1/8" MNPT hex nipple to connect the bubble counters.

~cris


----------



## Mathman

I went to my local mechanic and he let me use his vise bench to remove the cga from the VTS 450D. I will begin testing for leaks tonight. Meanwhile, here's how it'll look:





































Next to an iPhone 5:










Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## oldpunk78

WEW! That's a biggin'. :0


----------



## Mathman

oldpunk78 said:


> WEW! That's a biggin'. :0


Sexy huh!


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> Sexy huh!


Nice work there but can a brotha get some guidance after my little wingit adventure?


----------



## Mathman

Do you want it to be sticking out like that?


----------



## Bettatail

newbieplanter said:


> Nice work there but can a brotha get some guidance after my little wingit adventure?


It is the right combination of fittings that make it look good.

Recommend fittings and parts:
1/4 mnpt to 1/8 mnpt hex nipple
1/8 fnpt inlet/outlet solenoid(waiting for the good news, I will push out a good one for fellow hobbyists)
1/8 mnpt elbow
Then your needle valve.


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> Do you want it to be sticking out like that?


Well like I said I was just wingingit don't know to much about these fittings, plus the I went to the local hardware store so they didn't have much of a selection I'm gonna go to HD in tha AM an see what they have.



Bettatail said:


> It is the right combination of fittings that make it look good.
> 
> Recommend fittings and parts:
> 1/4 mnpt to 1/8 mnpt hex nipple
> 1/8 fnpt inlet/outlet solenoid(waiting for the good news, I will push out a good one for fellow hobbyists)
> 1/8 mnpt elbow
> Then your needle valve.


Thanks my darn solieniod is supposed to be here but I'm still waiting I'm gonna see if HD got those fittings tho. My bet is ill get em then have to change everything over to fit the solieniod.


----------



## Mathman

HD should carry what bettatail has listed...if you don't mind the waiting you could buy them on eBay as well.


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> HD should carry what bettatail has listed...if you don't mind the waiting you could buy them on eBay as well.


Good looken out, man I've been tring to run CO2 now for about four months and I only had all my tanks for 3. Lol


----------



## Mathman

newbieplanter said:


> Good looken out, man I've been tring to run CO2 now for about four months and I only had all my tanks for 3. Lol


You will have to remove the 3/8 -1/4 attached to the regulator and use the 1/4"-1/8" reducing nipple that bettatail suggest you use.


----------



## oldpunk78

I'm too tired to add the commentary. The picture that shows a part of my hands is my excuse.


----------



## Mathman

Sweet...all SS!

I really like the look of the 1/4" nipple and 1/4"-1/8" elbow...makes the connection between the reg and post body look solid...and one less fitting to use.

~cris


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> I'm too tired to add the commentary. The picture that shows a part of my hands is my excuse.


Dam I should just spend the money and get a build from someone!
How much would this go for $200-$400+?


----------



## Bettatail

identical regulator, the regulator and the SS fittings costs, system was sold $400+


----------



## nofearengineer

Do you guys see any corrosion between SS and brass fittings? I think in water, it would certainly be a problem, but just CO2, I am not sure.

Also, oldpunk, is that a check valve after your metering valve?

If so, what kind of fittings are those.

If I weren't an EE, I might know. :icon_mrgr


----------



## Mathman

It doesn't look like a check valve... more like a push in fitting.


----------



## oldpunk78

No, not a check valve. I run mine in-line. After the metering valve is just a Swagelok tube fitting. The rest of the fittings are Superlok.

Oh - No issues with mixing the brass and other metals as of yet. Maybe if you live somewhere where its really humid or something or if it was used outdoors.


----------



## Darkblade48

I didn't start noticing leaks from mixing brass/stainless steel until after 2 years, and it was a very fine microleak (barely detectable with soapy water).


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Wouldn't the teflon be the only thing making contact? I mean, it's not metal to metal. I been told it only bad for those ferrule fittings and if you have it exposed to humidity. 

A while back, I asked Swagelok this very question. And if I can remember correctly, the girl said it would be best to do a Female SS with a Male Brass if weight is concerned. Use of a sealant and having it stationary is preferred. 

Can someone with a brass regulator and stainless steel fittings chime in on this? I'm curious as to how it runs. I think Mathman has a brass matheson with some SS fittings.


----------



## nofearengineer

Darkblade48 said:


> I didn't start noticing leaks from mixing brass/stainless steel until after 2 years, and it was a very fine microleak (barely detectable with soapy water).


Thanks. 

I'm thinking chrome-plated brass fittings could be good "sacrificial" components when dealing with setups using both stainless and brass. 

A stainless Parker H3L is so expensive, protecting it from corrosion, no matter how small, might be a good idea. The same with a chrome-plated brass regulator like I'm getting, where you might make the 1/4 to 1/8 hex nipple chrome plated brass when everything else is stainless for a better aesthetic match.

Thoughts?


----------



## Darkblade48

I was actually using chrome-plated brass (a Swageok metering valve) with some stainless steel tubing to 1/8" NPT adapters.

In general, galvanic corrosion will not be an issue if you use teflon tape (so that there is some medium between the two metals). However, in my case, there is no teflon between these two adapters (brass makes contact with stainless steel directly), and so, leaks eventually formed.

Doing what you proposed should be fine though; I assume you will use all stainless steel parts past the 1/4" to 1/8" hex bushing. This essentially makes the hex bushing the sacrificial part (relatively cheap to replace).


----------



## nofearengineer

That's exactly what I intended, DB.

And also between the brass bubble counter and the stainless metering valve.


----------



## Bettatail

pipe connection, it is not a problem to use brass with stainless steel, because you use teflon tape or pipe sealant anyway.
from what I know, if direct contact, all metal have galvanize action, but aluminum to aluminum, stainless steel to stainless steel are the worse, other metals, or brass with stainless steel, galvanize action can be neglected.

I don't see a problem that SS pipe with brass pipe fittings. only caution is that the brass is softer than the SS, over-tighten the pipe fittings, the threads of brass fittings will damage. Of course, that will apply a really large force to run the threads bold. 


Swagelok compression tube ports, avoid using brass ferrules with SS fittings(or avoid brass ferrules whatsoever), the brass ferrules and SS fittings has no galvanize problem, but brass is soft, deformation over time if under pressure, and the connection will loose.
I think that is why the representative from Swagelok didn't recommend brass with SS, to be specifically.

add: brass ferrules are weak, it is easy to turn the compression tube connection side way if the ferrules are brass.


----------



## nofearengineer

I am sure the teflon tape helps, but let us remember that its purpose is to seal, not to insulate. There is certainly metal-to-metal contact in any threaded junction.

And I know that we are probably talking about an almost infinitesimal amount of corrosion, given that there isn't an electrolyte involved, other than some water vapor impurity. But that is why you guys are awesome. You sweat the details (like me), and your regulators are true works of art as a result.

I can only hope my setup works and looks half as well.

I'm looking for my fittings, solenoid, and bubble counter now, so it won't be long before I start feeding my plants right.


----------



## newbieplanter

Here at HD now and don't see none of these sizes???????????



Bettatail said:


> It is the right combination of fittings that make it look good.
> 
> Recommend fittings and parts:
> 1/4 mnpt to 1/8 mnpt hex nipple
> 1/8 fnpt inlet/outlet solenoid(waiting for the good news, I will push out a good one for fellow hobbyists)
> 1/8 mnpt elbow
> Then your needle valve.


Nothing here at HD??



Mathman said:


> HD should carry what bettatail has listed...if you don't mind the waiting you could buy them on eBay as well.


HD don't have those fittings


----------



## Mathman

You are going to have to buy them online and be patient...I know that could be a difficult thing.


----------



## kevmo911

In the plumbing section, there are a bunch of brass fittings. They're divided by size. Little Watts bags. The 1/8 section will be small.

It's possible that your HD doesn't have any of these fittings. More likely, you just haven't found them. Just to be clear, "MNPT" and "FNPT" mean male and female NPT fittings. Just ask a salesperson in the plumbing section about brass NPT fittings. They won't have SS.


----------



## newbieplanter

kevmo911 said:


> In the plumbing section, there are a bunch of brass fittings. They're divided by size. Little Watts bags. The 1/8 section will be small.
> 
> It's possible that your HD doesn't have any of these fittings. More likely, you just haven't found them. Just to be clear, "MNPT" and "FNPT" mean male and female NPT fittings. Just ask a salesperson in the plumbing section about brass NPT fittings. They won't have SS.


This is what I had to do.


















Cuz the HD people don't know how to find stuff they work around everyday.



Mathman said:


> You are going to have to buy them online and be patient...I know that could be a difficult thing.


I found them on eBay but I guess ill run it like this for now.


----------



## Mathman

Could you do this?


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> Could you do this?


Yea.

I might have to run it like this till I get my solieniod n bubble counter. Should I still order the others off line, or get my tank n go leave u guys alone. Lol


----------



## Mathman

newbieplanter said:


> Yea.


Now, the only difficulty you may have is tightening the 1/8" nipples as they are not hex it wont be easy to get a good hold on them without damaging the threads.


----------



## newbieplanter

*CO2 Guage Settings*

I just threw my paintball tank on my smith regulator the HP guage reads 70 bar/1000 psi, I need to know what to set the LP guage to so I can run it on my 20H gal tank?


----------



## oldpunk78

What are you using for diffusion?


----------



## Bettatail

around 10-15 psi more than the back pressure


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> What are you using for diffusion?


I have no bubble counter yet, and I'm using a glass diffuser. I also have a up aqua atomic diffuser I can use but think ill just go with the glass.


----------



## newbieplanter

Bettatail said:


> around 10-15 psi more than the back pressure


I don't get what u mean, back pressure?


----------



## oldpunk78

10-20psi for a glass diffuser.


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> 10-20psi for a glass diffuser.


Hey Thanks! I'm gonna have to order new solieniods and get my 5lb bottle tomorrow cuz I don't like havin my reg sideways. Thanks again.


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> 10-20psi for a glass diffuser.


What is the hard tube called and where can I get it from, like say if I got a needle valve with compression fittings how could I run this?









Will a hose barb fit onto the NV? I'm not talkin hose running from reg. I'm picturing the set up from the NV.


----------



## Darkblade48

newbieplanter said:


> What is the hard tube called and where can I get it from, like say if I got a needle valve with compression fittings how could I run this?


You can get various compression fitting adapters (such as to hose barb or to various sized NPT fittings).

I am not sure what you are referring to as the "hard tube".


----------



## newbieplanter

Darkblade48 said:


> You can get various compression fitting adapters (such as to hose barb or to various sized NPT fittings).
> 
> I am not sure what you are referring to as the "hard tube".


This is what I'm talkin about. I've googled gas tube an got something different. I looked in eBay also couldn't find it. This is my last try also u see how the compression nut is changed on the end furthest from the tank I tried to do this and my hose is so easy to pull out but by hand so I don't think it will hold.









You see how it's set up here this is what I'm tring to do


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Guess what came in the mail today! 










For the 24VDC adapter, what amp are we looking for? 500mA? Also, how would you tell if it's "switching" or not. Anyways, I'm totally stroked and the solenoid is smaller than I expected. It's smaller than a typical DIN connecter, very nice find Bettatails, thanks!


----------



## Mathman

FlyingHellFish said:


> Guess what came in the mail today!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For the 24VDC adapter, what amp are we looking for? 500mA? Also, how would you tell if it's "switching" or not. Anyways, I'm totally stroked and the solenoid is smaller than I expected. It's smaller than a typical DIN connecter, very nice find Bettatails, thanks!


Exciting!

Let us know how to wire them...illustrations with pics is a must.

~cris


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Swagelok also got this bad boy in today, the elusive SS 1/8 Male T, rarely seen in the wild aisles of Home Depot. Known to be found only in remote parts of welding shops. Oh by the way Josh, they liked your Swagelok build.


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


>


from the parts you have, is this the style that you have in mind?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Haha yes, that was the build I was trying to copy.


----------



## Darkblade48

newbieplanter said:


> This is what I'm talkin about. I've googled gas tube an got something different. I looked in eBay also couldn't find it. This is my last try also u see how the compression nut is changed on the end furthest from the tank I tried to do this and my hose is so easy to pull out but by hand so I don't think it will hold.


I think you are looking for two parts.

For the part that you want to connect your tubing to, you will want an adapter with a hose barb fitting.

For the "gas tube" that you indicated to, you just need some metal tubing that will fit into the compression fittings; it is not a special piece.

The piping/tubing goes into the compression fittings, and the ferrules clamp/screw down onto the pipe/tubing to provide a tight seal.



FlyingHellFish said:


> For the 24VDC adapter, what amp are we looking for? 500mA?


Check your post in the other thread for my answer.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> Oh by the way Josh, they liked your Swagelok build.


Cool, that's awesome! Did you bust out your phone and say "Hey, check this out - there's this dude that made a Swagelok co2 regulator."


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Yes but not the last part. They were interested in what I was making so today I showed them the SMC solenoid which of course, is connected to your Swagelok regulator. They get the odd numbers of University kids asking for parts but never seen this. Now Swagelok thinks there a bunch of crazy fish keepers who have a lot of money to spend. 

You guys ever seen Swagelok's promo posters? They're sort of like DIY projects but with a twist.

1. SuperSoaker with Gauges 
2. Baby bottle with metering valve and Gauges
3. Lemonade stand with two big jars, gauges and valves, looks a lot like DIY Co2


----------



## newbieplanter

FlyingHellFish said:


> Haha yes, that was the build I was trying to copy.





Darkblade48 said:


> I think you are looking for two parts.
> 
> For the part that you want to connect your tubing to, you will want an adapter with a hose barb fitting.
> 
> For the "gas tube" that you indicated to, you just need some metal tubing that will fit into the compression fittings; it is not a special piece.
> 
> The piping/tubing goes into the compression fittings, and the ferrules clamp/screw down onto the pipe/tubing to provide a tight seal.
> 
> 
> Check your post in the other thread for my answer.


On closer inspection I see I had that connection already but mine leaked from two places. When I was buying the parts for it I knew it would leak where the metal tube was incerted an it did, I used some copper tubing. Any way to get a tighter fitting than that cuz I used Teflon tape too? What if I use a brass insert like those found with the little flare on the end of it?


----------



## newbieplanter

*Thanks!*

I just wanna take a quic sec to Thank everyone here on this forum who helped me setup my CO2, my setups are not complete yet but there has been a weight lifted off my shoulders just knowing my plants are atleast gettin the right CO2. In the end all I wanna do is grow plants in a fish tank nothing more. This whole thing interests an fascinates me for some reason.
THANKS to Darkblade48,Oldpunk78,Mathman,Kevmo911,Bettatail,Flyinghellfish, and last but not least Jaggedfury.

Pics of the set ups I got for now.


----------



## Mathman

newbieplanter said:


> I just wanna take a quic sec to Thank everyone here on this forum who helped me setup my CO2, my setups are not complete yet but there has been a weight lifted off my shoulders just knowing my plants are atleast gettin the right CO2. In the end all I wanna do is grow plants in a fish tank nothing more. This whole thing interests an fascinates me for some reason.
> THANKS to Darkblade48,Oldpunk78,Mathman,Kevmo911,Bettatail,Flyinghellfish, and last but not least Jaggedfury.


We all try to help each other and that's what's awesome about this forum. I am also grateful for all those who help and aren't greedy with their knowledge. It is a wonderful hobby and passing knowledge from one person to the other will keep the passion alive.


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> Now Swagelok thinks there a bunch of crazy fish keepers who have a lot of money to spend.


Same thing happened when I was placing an order through a Swagelok dealer (while I was working in a lab). 

I needed some metering valve parts, and he thought it was for our N2/CO2 incubator, but when I told him, "no, it's for aquarium plants..." he responded "Oh...." and sounded a little surprised 



newbieplanter said:


> On closer inspection I see I had that connection already but mine leaked from two places. When I was buying the parts for it I knew it would leak where the metal tube was incerted an it did, I used some copper tubing. Any way to get a tighter fitting than that cuz I used Teflon tape too? What if I use a brass insert like those found with the little flare on the end of it?


You are not supposed to use teflon tape on those fittings. You need those "brass inserts" (properly called ferrules) to form a tight seal between the tube insert and the tubing itself.

You can purchase the ferrules either online or through your Swagelok distributor.


----------



## Bettatail

Darkblade48 said:


> I needed some metering valve parts, and he thought it was for our N2/CO2 incubator, but when I told him, "no, it's for aquarium plants..." he responded "Oh...." and sounded a little surprised


that is a good one.

Fabco is the only manufacture that aware of the low flow control needle valve that can be used in planted tank hobby, but unfortunately, fail to provide something that is affordable. The same price to pay for a fabco needle valve, prowl evil bay deep enough we can always find a much better swagelok metering valve, and occasionally something unusual, such as the Brooks instrument extremely high precision metering valve.


----------



## AlanLe

I went to a lfs and saw a guy who paid $140 for a Milwaukee regulator. It was a sad day


----------



## newbieplanter

*Floating NV*

I got a Needle valve from ideal model 52-1-12 and I had the bubbles set at 2bps but it went lower somehow, I do have a hose barb from the NV to the tank that's the only thing I can think of that might be leaking. Here's a pic of the set up.

I know its kinda low tech but it gets pure CO2 to my tank.


----------



## newbieplanter

Darkblade48 said:


> Same thing happened when I was placing an order through a Swagelok dealer (while I was working in a lab).
> 
> I needed some metering valve parts, and he thought it was for our N2/CO2 incubator, but when I told him, "no, it's for aquarium plants..." he responded "Oh...." and sounded a little surprised
> 
> 
> You are not supposed to use teflon tape on those fittings. You need those "brass inserts" (properly called ferrules) to form a tight seal between the tube insert and the tubing itself.
> 
> You can purchase the ferrules either online or through your Swagelok distributor.


My needle valve came with the ferrules and I used them. It leaked.


----------



## Bettatail

newbieplanter said:


> My needle valve came with the ferrules and I used them. It leaked.


the search function in the forum really help, and please do more reading, to build a good quality pressurized system with good parts, you need to do more homework and more attention to detail.
we can help, but you are the one building yourself a system, need to read and understand the basic so we don't have to spend time and posts just to repeat the answers for some questions that have been answered so many times in this forum.

search function help, and there are multiple related threads you can read, make sure you read enough.


----------



## newbieplanter

Bettatail said:


> the search function in the forum really help, and please do more reading, to build a good quality pressurized system with good parts, you need to do more homework and more attention to detail.
> we can help, but you are the one building yourself a system, need to read and understand the basic so we don't have to spend time and posts just to repeat the answers for some questions that have been answered so many times in this forum.
> 
> search function help, and there are multiple related threads you can read, make sure you read enough.


Yea this here is an old subject I don't care about anyway anytime I post u don't have to answer for everyone.


----------



## Bettatail

newbieplanter said:


> Yea this here is an old subject I don't care about anyway anytime I post u don't have to answer for everyone.


I want you to read more, so you can make something better.

BTW, 1/4 OD swagelok SS double ferrules, is 5000psi rating, if connected it right you wouldn't have jumped to the simple conclusion.


----------



## Darkblade48

newbieplanter said:


> My needle valve came with the ferrules and I used them. It leaked.


It is possible you installed them improperly.

Swagelok has a good PDF as well as animation on their website that explains the correct way to "Swage" (their terminology) pipes/tubes/tubing adapters so that they will be leak proof.

Following their instructions, I have not had a leak with any properly installed Swagelok equipment.


----------



## AlanLe

I just landed a brand new Concoa 432 SS for dirt cheap.  I will use this for my tank instead.


----------



## oldpunk78

Nice. Pics when you're done!


----------



## oldpunk78

This weekend's projects:


----------



## ryannguyen

How much to build my own regulator? any website to order parts?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> This weekend's projects:


That regulator looks awfully familiar.


----------



## oldpunk78

ryannguyen said:


> How much to build my own regulator? any website to order parts?


If you're eBay savoy and you wait for the deals, you could probably do it between $150-200 easy. It really depends on what you want to accomplish. Knowing what to look for is a must.


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> That regulator looks awfully familiar.


Yup, same one you've got


----------



## FlyingHellFish

She a beau! Looks new, what kind of postbody you planning for her?


----------



## oldpunk78

FlyingHellFish said:


> She a beau! Looks new, what kind of postbody you planning for her?



You'll see. A pretty standard one I've come to like.


----------



## AlanLe

How did you find these goodies? Sgt500 and 3810 are my dream.


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> How did you find these goodies? Sgt500 and 3810 are my dream.


I look, a lot...

The Sgt500 and the stainless mathesons are a bastard to find in good condition. You have to have some serious Google-foo for those.


----------



## AlanLe

I was lucky enough to get my hands on a brand new concoa 432 and a hpt500 for a good price. However my dream is not completed until i get the sgt500 and 3810.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

3810? Same as the 3120 series except stainless steel which is a dull silver. Get the chrome brass bro, shinny stuff!


----------



## Bettatail

oldpunk78 said:


>


Nice looking 3122, but the brass CGA320 doesn't suit it, a chrome CGA320 look much better.

hunted down two of the same Matheson, the stainless steel version 3810 last month, and both built. unfortunately one of two complete stainless steel 3810 systems was put in the wrong package and sent away, oh well, my bad luck is another guys good luck.:icon_roll


----------



## Bettatail

AlanLe said:


> How did you find these goodies? Sgt500 and 3810 are my dream.





oldpunk78 said:


> I look, a lot...
> 
> The Sgt500 and the stainless mathesons are a bastard to find in good condition. You have to have some serious Google-foo for those.





AlanLe said:


> I was lucky enough to get my hands on a brand new concoa 432 and a hpt500 for a good price. However my dream is not completed until i get the sgt500 and 3810.


3810 is not hard to find, but SGT500, rare, a SGT160, rarer.

have two SGT500 and a SGT160 currently.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Wait what happen? You sent someone a free 3810 system? Can't you just ask them to send it back?


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Wait what happen? You sent someone a free 3810 system?


not free, but put the complete stainless steel 3810 system in the wrong box, the return shipping, shipping to the original owner, turn around time and all, will make no much difference, so the hobbyist who got the wrong system got a sweat SS 3810 set at a regular chrome plated brass system price.
The other guy got the second identical SS set.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Oh, well I hope they know what an awesome deal they got.  Imagine the surprise look on their face!


----------



## Bettatail

FlyingHellFish said:


> Oh, well I hope they know what an awesome deal they got.  Imagine the surprise look on their face!


not really, he was in doubt why getting a different one, I had to explain that it was my mistake and he got a much better system, :icon_redf


----------



## trix25

i just want to say a big "THANK YOU" to oldpunk78 and bettatail (also all the other members) for helping me out by posting all your helpful tips. helped me out a lot in my understanding of co2


----------



## nofearengineer

Quick question.

When my solenoid opens, it usually takes a couple minutes for the bubbles to start. The same goes for when it closes...it takes a couple minutes for the bubbles to stop.

Is this normal?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ yes


----------



## oldpunk78

nofearengineer said:


> Quick question.
> 
> When my solenoid opens, it usually takes a couple minutes for the bubbles to start. The same goes for when it closes...it takes a couple minutes for the bubbles to stop.
> 
> Is this normal?


What you are noticing is a build-up and bleed-off. It takes a little to get going and stop going.


----------



## nofearengineer

oldpunk78 said:


> What you are noticing is a build-up and bleed-off. It takes a little to get going and stop going.


Great. Thanks. I was worried I might have a sticky check valve or something.


----------



## AlanLe

Found a swagelok nupro 4MG 316 ss valve for $30 shipped. Is this fair price?


----------



## Ozymandius

Hi all

I have a new/old stock 2 stage O2 regulator that I am repurposing for CO2 by changing the existing CGA fitting. I am enamored with the idea of a paintball CO2 tank (translated - my employer will be happier with a smaller tank in the office).

Option 1: CGA 320 nipple and nut with a paintball adapter
Option 2: nipple and nut for paintball adapter

Question: Does option 2 exist? Would be more pleasing to use one part rather than 2.

Thx in advance


----------



## oldpunk78

Check palmers pursuit. I believe they sell what you're looking for.

http://palmer-pursuit.com/cart/14-male-825x14-female-asa-p-964.html


----------



## ua hua

I finally got my regulator all put together and tested and it only took about 4 months. I ordered the wrong power supply and finally found one from Hong Kong and I think they shipped it over by paddle boat because it took almost 2 months.

I need to say a thank you to Bettatail and Oldpunk for answering my numerous questions and giving me valuable advice along the way. While this wasn't my first regulator build this is my first dual stage built from scratch.

The regulator is a brand new rebranded Victor HPT-500 with burkert 2822 solenoid, Parker 2F-H3L metering vavle, all stainless steel swagelok fittings, and Swagelok s/s 4C 1/3 check valve.


----------



## Bettatail

:thumbsup:


----------



## slojko

oldpunk, im having trouble with my needle valve. im assuming the problem is the low PSI rating but it doesnt really control the flow at all. right now im just adjusting the flow with the knob on the regulator. could you recommend a needle valve to buy and how to integrate it into my system?


----------



## slojko

i feel like im doing this wrong looking at your guys pics. right from the regulator i have a 1/8 in tubing connector then i have plastic tubing on that and then it connects to a regulator with with two 1/4th compressors. the needle valve i got from ace and it almost does nothing i can monitor. after the needle valve the tubing connects to a bubble counter


----------



## Bettatail

slojko said:


> i feel like im doing this wrong looking at your guys pics. right from the regulator i have a 1/8 in tubing connector then i have plastic tubing on that and then it connects to a regulator with with two 1/4th compressors. the needle valve i got from ace and it almost does nothing i can monitor. after the needle valve the tubing connects to a bubble counter


Needle/metering valves with precision that can handle 0-20sccm flow rate, are the right ones.

I
I
I
V


----------



## dtejeda.arias

Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy one already made then making one from scratch? Even though it seems like a great project if you want one custom made to your specific needs.


----------



## Darkblade48

slojko said:


> oldpunk, im having trouble with my needle valve. im assuming the problem is the low PSI rating but it doesnt really control the flow at all. right now im just adjusting the flow with the knob on the regulator. could you recommend a needle valve to buy and how to integrate it into my system?





slojko said:


> i feel like im doing this wrong looking at your guys pics. right from the regulator i have a 1/8 in tubing connector then i have plastic tubing on that and then it connects to a regulator with with two 1/4th compressors. the needle valve i got from ace and it almost does nothing i can monitor. after the needle valve the tubing connects to a bubble counter


From your picture, it does not appear you have a suitable needle valve for our hobby. The needle valves that you can get from the hardware store do not have fine enough control for our purposes. 

As Bettatail mentioned, you will want another needle/metering valve that can control an appropriately low flow rate.



dtejeda.arias said:


> Wouldn't it be cheaper to buy one already made then making one from scratch? Even though it seems like a great project if you want one custom made to your specific needs.


If you are patient and bargain hunt, it can be cheaper to assemble an entire regulator setup from scratch than it is to buy a pre-assembled one.

In addition, you can also control what parts are going in, and customize it to your needs. 

The same argument can be said for building your own computer versus buying a pre-assembled one.


----------



## willygog

Darkblade48 said:


> From your picture, it does not appear you have a suitable needle valve for our hobby. The needle valves that you can get from the hardware store do not have fine enough control for our purposes.
> 
> As Bettatail mentioned, you will want another needle/metering valve that can control an appropriately low flow rate.
> 
> 
> If you are patient and bargain hunt, it can be cheaper to assemble an entire regulator setup from scratch than it is to buy a pre-assembled one.
> 
> In addition, you can also control what parts are going in, and customize it to your needs.
> 
> The same argument can be said for building your own computer versus buying a pre-assembled one.


I just built one from parts, it was cheaper than a complete system bought straight out, that auction site, if you search if hard, you will find metering valves, and regulators in bare bones mode.. i lucked out with an aquaXX something out of calif.. and an extra regualator unknown kind both for 35.00,
, and a swagelok s-22 for 25.. so with a few bits an bites i can dial it in not worry bout floating valves.. and the cost was low.. plus i had fun searchin out the locations of these regs and there costs.. I have not experienced floating valve syndrome, im far from an expert at all, thes guys helped me out awesomely, but i saw you asked if it was worth it, i would say it definitely is..  JMHO


----------



## creekbottom

This was a GREAT thread until all the info at the beginning disappeared. Where did it go?


----------



## Darkblade48

The information is still there, as far as I can see.


----------



## creekbottom

Now it's back, that's weird.


----------



## oldpunk78

creekbottom said:


> Now it's back, that's weird.


I feel this could use a little explanation.

I guess multiple things caused me to want to update this thread. One point being that I'm pretty much done with the regulator thing. Another being that I feel like a lot of the info here is getting dated. As a whole we've learned a lot more than what's included in the 1st couple posts. I've been wanting to update the whole thing and share a bit more of what I've learned over the last couple of years but I just don't have the drive to do it.

Over the past few weeks I've just been bombarded with 'life' and at a moment of frustration, I decided it would be just best to have the whole thing just go away.

Fortunately, the staff here at TPT decided to undo what I did the original posts for the benefit of the community. Looking back, I guess it was pretty selfish of me to remove all the useful info that's still there. For that, I am sorry. 

-Josh


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ pourquoi?, Monsieur VieuxPunk.


----------



## somewhatshocked

I restored it.

To make things easier on oldpunk - anyone who has regulator/CO2 questions should ask them here on the forum, rather than bombarding him with private messages. That way others can learn from questions and answers.



creekbottom said:


> Now it's back, that's weird.


----------



## Smellydeli

It is done! Accidentally mauled the push connect when the wrench slipped, might replace it later. Needs 1 final cleaning and then a coat of lacquer to keep the brass shiny.


----------



## Bettatail

Smellydeli said:


> It is done! Accidentally mauled the push connect when the wrench slipped, might replace it later. Needs 1 final cleaning and then a coat of lacquer to keep the brass shiny.


:thumbsup:


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Love that purple disconnect on that solenoid... looks awfully familiar to me tho.


----------



## oldpunk78

Smellydeli said:


> It is done! Accidentally mauled the push connect when the wrench slipped, might replace it later. Needs 1 final cleaning and then a coat of lacquer to keep the brass shiny.


Nice work!


----------



## buddly

Alright guys I just bought me a reg and now I need some help building it kinda like this one.It is a Concoa 400 series dual stage.I am want to run 2 tanks with this.Also dont want to pay $100 plus for the 2 needle valves.I will be using a ph controller and a Apex lite.Thanks for all and any help.I have a 20lbs bottle


----------



## Darkblade48

In the future, please do not post multiple times across different threads. I have deleted your other thread.

I posted this in your other thread originally:



Darkblade48 said:


> Remove the on/off valve first.
> 
> There are various guides out there that describe in detail what parts are good. I have written a Primer for Pressurized CO2 (linked in my signature below), so that may be a good place to start.
> 
> In addition, Bettatail also has several guides regarding solenoids and needle valves.
> 
> For a bubble counter, many people tend to use a JBJ or a JBJ clone, if they are looking for a regulator mounted bubble counter. Otherwise, you could always go with an inline one.


----------



## oldpunk78

If you're going to use the controller, you'll need two solenoids if you want to use the reg for two different tanks. I don't know if you can even hook up multiple ph probes to the apex. That's one you. None the less, you'll still need two solenoids. Do you have an idea of what solenoids you want to use? 

If you haven't figured it out yet, your post body is where most of you're money goes...


----------



## buddly

oldpunk78 said:


> If you're going to use the controller, you'll need two solenoids if you want to use the reg for two different tanks. I don't know if you can even hook up multiple ph probes to the apex. That's one you. None the less, you'll still need two solenoids. Do you have an idea of what solenoids you want to use?
> 
> If you haven't figured it out yet, your post body is where most of you're money goes...


I havent decided which one yet.I dont want the top of the line but at the same time I dont want the bottom either. I will be setting this thing up with out the ph control for a while,Thrying to regroup from buying new batch of discus.

Ok leaning toward the Burkert 6011 solenoid and also Fabco NV-55 needle valve

I have a [email protected] not to far from the house so I will be buying my fitting there.Just need to know which ones


----------



## Darkblade48

buddly said:


> Ok leaning toward the Burkert 6011 solenoid and also Fabco NV-55 needle valve


These are both good choices, though you may want to consider the NV-55-18 if you want to mount the needle valve onto the regulator. The #10/32 ports that are on the NV-55 valve are too small to reliably mount, and should only be run inline.



buddly said:


> I have a [email protected] not to far from the house so I will be buying my fitting there.Just need to know which ones


I assume you mean you have a Swagelok nearby; they should have all the fittings that you require.

I am not sure if you are looking for stainless steel or regular brass, so cannot provide exact part numbers.

However, in general, you will need a 1/4" to 1/8" reducer to go from your regulator to the solenoid. From the solenoid, you will need either the 1/8" to #10/32 adapters (if you are using the NV-55), or you can just use a 1/8" male nipple (if you are using the NV-55-18).

From there, it will depend if you want to use a mounted bubble counter (such as the JBJ or a JBJ clone) or an inline bubble counter, etc.


----------



## buddly

Regular brass and yes mounted bubble counter like these pictures.Also not sure how to run 2 solenoids for ph controller,which I feel is a must since this is for discus.So I will be needing 
I know this is not all but I think I at least need these things

2 AQUATEK CO2 Brass Bubble Counter with Integrated Check Valve
2 Burkert 6011 solenoid
1 1/4" to 1/8" reducer
2 NV- 55-18
1 1/8" male nipple




Thanks to all that are helping me out.I am ready to get this thing up and going


----------



## oldpunk78

I could make a parts recommendation if I knew if you wanted to do the two solenoid thing or not. The parts will be different. I can also advise you depending on that decision that it will cost 50 to 80 more to go the second solenoid route. It will cost more later to do it over. The biggest cost there is the additional solenoid.


----------



## buddly

I think I have to do the second solenoid for the ph controller.Thanks any and all help is very much appreciated.The thing that will come later is the Apex I want the ph controller from the get go

For now there is only one tank ready for the co2 the other one is still 3 months out because I am doing the DSM on the 75gl.Also I might add that the co2 tank will be down stairs in my fish room,next to the 75gl directly below the 120 planted discus tank up stairs.Also can there be more than one ph controller per regulator.I might need 3 solenoids lol


----------



## Darkblade48

buddly said:


> I think I have to do the second solenoid for the ph controller.Thanks any and all help is very much appreciated.The thing that will come later is the Apex I want the ph controller from the get go
> 
> For now there is only one tank ready for the co2 the other one is still 3 months out because I am doing the DSM on the 75gl.Also I might add that the co2 tank will be down stairs in my fish room,next to the 75gl directly below the 120 planted discus tank up stairs.Also can there be more than one ph controller per regulator.I might need 3 solenoids lol


For every extra aquarium you want to control, you will need an extra solenoid. 

It is possible to have each individual aquarium on its own pH controller (thus requiring multiple pH controllers) or all the aquariums on a single controller. In the former case, individual pH can be set. In the latter (not recommended) setup, the CO2 will shut off according to whichever aquarium you have the pH probe placed in.

You can have 3 pH controllers, if you want to control pH on 3 aquariums.


----------



## buddly

Please I really want and need to start ordering parts


oldpunk78 said:


> I could make a parts recommendation if I knew if you wanted to do the two solenoid thing or not. The parts will be different. I can also advise you depending on that decision that it will cost 50 to 80 more to go the second solenoid route. It will cost more later to do it over. The biggest cost there is the additional solenoid.


----------



## oldpunk78

buddly said:


> Please I really want and need to start ordering parts


Sorry, we have a new baby...

Would you prefer to have the needle valves pointing foreword or one foreword and one backward. One foreword and one backward is easier to put together but two foreword is probably easier to use. 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## oldpunk78

1x B-4-RB-2 (reducing bushing)
1x B-2-MT (male T)
1x B-2-SE (street elbow)
2x Burkert 6011 (solenoid)
2x B-2-HN (hex nipple)
2x Fabco NV-55-18 (needle valve)
2x B-2-HN (hex nipple) (so 4 total..)
2x Bubble Counter

That could be assembled a couple different ways.


----------



## Darkblade48

buddly said:


> Please I really want and need to start ordering parts


You have to remember that users on these forums volunteer their time; please be patient. 

You could also spend some time to read through the various guides that users have written, and they will offer much insight into how to build your own setup. That way, in the future, if you want to make a change to your setup, it will be quite easy for you to do as well.


----------



## buddly

Congrats


oldpunk78 said:


> Sorry, we have a new baby...
> 
> Would you prefer to have the needle valves pointing foreword or one foreword and one backward. One foreword and one backward is easier to put together but two foreword is probably easier to use.
> 
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk 2


Very cool thanks so much for your time


OK I want to run 2 tanks one upstairs and one directly below.The co2 tank will set down stair next to the 75gl and I will run one hose up to the 120gl.I will be running ph controllers on both tanks,because the stock will be discus once the grow out.
Help not sure what all I need


oldpunk78 said:


> 1x B-4-RB-2 (reducing bushing)
> 1x B-2-MT (male T)
> 1x B-2-SE (street elbow)
> 2x Burkert 6011 (solenoid)
> 2x B-2-HN (hex nipple)
> 2x Fabco NV-55-18 (needle valve)
> 2x B-2-HN (hex nipple) (so 4 total..)
> 2x Bubble Counter
> 
> That could be assembled a couple different ways.


:confused1: thay is all I have been doing for over a month.At least 3 hours every night and have not even started learning about the stock list yet :confused1:


Darkblade48 said:


> You have to remember that users on these forums volunteer their time; please be patient.
> 
> You could also spend some time to read through the various guides that users have written, and they will offer much insight into how to build your own setup. That way, in the future, if you want to make a change to your setup, it will be quite easy for you to do as well.


----------



## oldpunk78

buddly said:


> Very cool thanks so much for your time
> 
> 
> OK I want to run 2 tanks one upstairs and one directly below.The co2 tank will set down stair next to the 75gl and I will run one hose up to the 120gl.I will be running ph controllers on both tanks,because the stock will be discus once the grow out.
> Help not sure what all I need


You're going to need to run wiring and hose(from one aquarium location to the the other) or you're going to need to use separate regulators and cylinders.


----------



## buddly

Maybe I am not getting it.I am thinking of putting the 2 solenoids where the green circles are and them the bubble counters.I thought I just needed to run hose and power from the solenoids to each tank


oldpunk78 said:


> You're going to need to run wiring and hose(from one aquarium location to the the other) or you're going to need to use separate regulators and cylinders.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

oldpunk78 said:


> Sorry, we have a new baby...


Congrats on the new Fry


----------



## oldpunk78

You're talking about having one ph controller upstairs and one downstairs. The ph controller essentially just turns on and off the solenoids. The regulator can't be in two places at once. That means running a power cord and a co2 hose from the regulator to the other floor.



FlyingHellFish said:


> Congrats on the new Fry


Thanks!


----------



## FlyingHellFish

buddly said:


> Maybe I am not getting it.I am thinking of putting the 2 solenoids where the green circles are and them the bubble counters.I thought I just needed to run hose and power from the solenoids to each tank


You mean like this?










Basically you're using one regulator for two independent tanks. You run each solenoid to the ph monitor, at least that what I think you want.


----------



## buddly

Yes sir I will run one up and one down.I have already drill the hole Thanks again for your time


oldpunk78 said:


> You're talking about having one ph controller upstairs and one downstairs. The ph controller essentially just turns on and off the solenoids. The regulator can't be in two places at once. That means running a power cord and a co2 hose from the regulator to the other floor.


That is what I need right there thanks for the picture


FlyingHellFish said:


> You mean like this?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically you're using one regulator for two independent tanks. You run each solenoid to the ph monitor, at least that what I think you want.


----------



## kevmo911

The pH controller has to be connected to a probe, which has to be in the tank. That means that there needs to at least be wiring from the tank down to the solenoid, or you need to have an inline solenoid up at the 2nd tank, which is less than ideal.

*Edit* btw, many or most of the part pics and numbers you need are in post#1 of this thread.


----------



## Sake

How exactly does a Burkert 6011 work? I've taken the plastic assembly off, and remember which way it goes, but would like to turn it 180 degrees. Would that work or should I put it back on exactly as it came?


----------



## OVT

Sake said:


> How exactly does a Burkert 6011 work? I've taken the plastic assembly off, and remember which way it goes, but would like to turn it 180 degrees. Would that work or should I put it back on exactly as it came?


That will work just fine.


----------



## Darkblade48

Sake said:


> How exactly does a Burkert 6011 work? I've taken the plastic assembly off, and remember which way it goes, but would like to turn it 180 degrees. Would that work or should I put it back on exactly as it came?


Turn it 180 degrees in which axis?

As long as the input side remains the input, and the output remains the output, that is fine. 

This essentially restricts you to two axes of freedom, of which only one is applicable (if talking about a 180 degree rotation).


----------



## AlanLe

The local SMC sales guy gave me this catalog and told me to pick the parts. He can hook me up! Sweet! Well for solenoids and regulators only


----------



## andrewjohn007

Oh Learned Masters of Pressurized Gas,

So I made an impulse purchase and scooped up this dual stage regulator:

Air Products E-12-4-N145B
Max Reg PSIG - 50 psi
Inlet: 3/4" threads with a CGA-326
Outlet: 1/8" MNPT with a Swagelock 316 GIV 90 deg fitting

My inexperience tells me at the very least I need to convert the inlet to a CGA-320 with a nut/nipple combo. Next the Swagelock needs to be replaced with a needle valve/solenoid combo, possibly with an adaptive fitting in between.

I know it can't be this easy, however ignorance is bliss and at the moment I am blissful. Any direction and advice would be most appreciated...


----------



## Darkblade48

I have never heard of anyone converting a regulator that was initially used for nitrous oxide, so your mileage may vary.

As you already seem to be aware, you need to replace the CGA326 nut and nipple with a CGA320 set.

In addition, as you mentioned, the Swagelok outlet needs to be removed, and a solenoid and needle valve need to be added. The regulator outlet is likely 1/4", and solenoids for our purposes are generally 1/8", so you will need a reducer in between. Depending on the solenoid and needle valve you choose, you may also need adapters/fittings to connect the two.


----------



## andrewjohn007

*Thank you*

I appreciate the quick and thorough reply. Now that you've feed a stray dog some scraps, he may be back! I will let you know how it goes as I haven't even recieved the unit yet.


----------



## AlanLe

My ultra line 9467. Yes it's vcr but I have all the parts ready! The low pressure knob on this thing is so fine like a needle valve.


----------



## nofearengineer

That thing is SEXY, Alan! :thumbsup:

I love the gauge port fittings.


----------



## oldpunk78

What's the weight on that thing? I only ask because vcr fittings aren't really intended to support much weight. You'll probably be fine but that thing looks heavy. Remember that the in port is only essentially a 1/4" tube. It's possible that if you knock the assembly over the tube could break and discharge your cylinder completely in just a couple seconds. It would be wise to build a stand to help support the regulators weight. Also, don't forget that the vcr fittings use a metal gasket to make the seal. You don't want to use any type of sealant when assembling them. You'll ruin the regulator.


----------



## AlanLe

The weight is the same as my regular npt reg. i only need the vcr 320 nipple and will be converting vcr hex to regular npt on the low pressure side, so the solenoid, needle valve will be regular npt. Hope that will work...


----------



## buddly

Thanks for the help guy's.I have had this up and running now for a week.I just set it and got lucky the first time with the bubble count.The way it is built I can add on later.Thanks again for the help.So glad I did not buy one of those pre-built systems and listen to you all instead. Feel free to check out my tank, link is in my signature
KH3
GH 8
pH 6.4 
co2 35ppm


----------



## daygoboiz

Sup guys! I'm trying to buy a decent regulator and it such a hassle. The more i look into the Milwaukee and I found out the pressure isn't stable and so is the aquatek. I'm thinking about the gla regulator but i think its a little much. So how much is it to get a custom built one with a solenoid and a precise needle valve and a regular reg with the paintball adapter would be great for future bigger tank since I'm gonna spend some money on it! Any suggestions?


----------



## OVT

About $300.

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


----------



## daygoboiz

OVT said:


> About $300.
> 
> via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


I see so its pretty much the same price as the one from gla. Thanks


----------



## oldpunk78

daygoboiz said:


> I see so its pretty much the same price as the one from gla. Thanks


If gla tried to build what I build and sell for around 400 bucks, they would have to charge upwards of a 1000 bucks. It's not quite as simple as that but with a custom, you get a lot more bang for your buck. The folks around here that do the customs are slowly dieing off though. It would be more worth it to just figure out how to build one by yourself, honestly.


----------



## herns

oldpunk78 said:


> It's not quite as simple as that but with a custom, you get a lot more bang for your buck.QUOTE]
> 
> True.
> 
> People just want to settle for that popular Chinese made regulators thinking they could get less but they end up spending more when overtime, the regulator didn't last that long.


----------



## daygoboiz

herns said:


> oldpunk78 said:
> 
> 
> 
> It's not quite as simple as that but with a custom, you get a lot more bang for your buck.QUOTE]
> 
> True.
> 
> People just want to settle for that popular Chinese made regulators thinking they could get less but they end up spending more when overtime, the regulator didn't last that long.
> 
> 
> 
> I tried once myself. failed and it was a little costly so this this i would like to pay someone else to get the job done right. It's just a little confusing because there are so many out there and it's hard to get a reliable one. So I'm leaning toward the Gla Paintball regulator for $200 and it seem like my price range unless i can get one for around that price but with the regulator and get the adapter for paintball.
Click to expand...


----------



## OVT

Where did you fail? There are still plenty of people who will help you out, within reason.

I started with those 'beer' regulators. Took me a year of fish loss and lots of head scratching to figure out the reasons fir some of the snide comments I got from people who walked the same path.

(at least LeftC was really nice about it)

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


----------



## oldpunk78

OVT said:


> Where did you fail? There are still plenty of people who will help you out, within reason.
> 
> I started with those 'beer' regulators. Took me a year of fish loss and lots of head scratching to figure out the reasons fir some of the snide comments I got from people who walked the same path.
> 
> (at least LeftC was really nice about it)
> 
> via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


Do I come off as a regulator snob? I try hard not to. Sometimes I'm just tired. 

I hope leftC is doing better.


----------



## OVT

Oh no no, friend. I started long before I met you.
Sorry, no idea how my post came across the wrong way. My appologies in any case.

If anyone, I became a regulator 'snob' given my middle of the night emergency water changes, watching my fish die. Somehow, a stuck open solenoid and EOTD that NEVER happens to anyone else but myself. 2 equipment failures at once.

Given that, I try to gently steer people away from what I consider junk. But try to explain that over and over again to people looking for a 'cheap' solution... That was the point I failed to make in the above post.

I paid for my lessons. Many times over.

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


----------



## ipkiss

Daygoboiz, 

I'm not going to lie to you, for me, the learning curve was steep to build my own regulator. I spent a LOT of time poring through oldpunk's and bettatail's guides over and over. At times, I even left the project alone for a while so that I can sit and stew over what I read. The vast plethora of choices is just daunting sometimes. But in the end, just the impressive beauty alone of that Dual Stage Regulator (DSR) sitting under my tank makes it all worth it. Like darkblade said, give your co2 tank and regulator some prominence and it even becomes a conversation starter. Heck, the regulator alone initiated tons of conversations. Your price range is more than enough to join the DSR club. Just remember, you can simplify a LOT of the things. You don't have to go all out. The essentials are merely intake/regulator/solenoid/needle valve. And if you run your CO2 manually or 24/7, you can even drop the solenoid -- but I think it's really worth it to have the solenoid. 

It's merely the commitment of your time. Then, you too, can become a regulator snob! 


Oh, also, if you go this route, and are not space limited, don't bother with the paintball valve. Just get a 5LB co2 tank or bigger. A real regulator looks ridiculous on the paintball tank and it also doesn't balance right -- which makes it somewhat dangerous. I had your mindset and I wasted my money on a paintball to CGA320 adapter. That alone was 15-16 bucks. That's almost 1/4 the price of the tank!


----------



## AlanLe

What happened to Bettatail????


----------



## Darkblade48

AlanLe said:


> What happened to Bettatail????


I believe he has been busy with work (and life in general).


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> What happened to Bettatail????


I'd expect him back before thanksgiving. There's not really a market for regulators in the summer. ..


----------



## herns

Hey Josh,

The #10-32 male, 1/8 ID hose, because of its small thread sometimes get loosened when CO2 tubing is taken off during tank refill. 

How do you prevent this from happening without cutting the Co2 tubing?


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Ops, nevermind hahahah


----------



## OVT

Blue LocTite

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


----------



## MichaelKelley

The information provided is he a really helpful as we can get almost information regarding the CO2 regulators and the process of using them altogether. I am going to book mark this URL for future reference. Thanks a ton.


----------



## GraphicGr8s

Hey OVT what is wrong with the regs for beer? Are they all single stage?


----------



## plantbrain

GraphicGr8s said:


> Hey OVT what is wrong with the regs for beer? Are they all single stage?


Most, but not all.
I used an old cornelius for a few years without issue, they are cheap. 
The few dual stagers tend to be a lot more $.

I've had several clients with rather interesting demands and requirements so I ended up putting a 1200$ mass flow controller on one tank, and recently I installed an automated tank replacement system. 

When gas tank #1 gets down to 200 psi, the other tank switches over and the system is never without CO2, say if you do not catch the tank being empty for a few days, or a couple of weeks.

We've all done this and if not, wait, you will

Cost is about 450$ for the micromatic. 

You can also get digital gauges for the read outs which can then use a signal to alert you electronically when the psi in the tank drops before a user defined set point.

About 200$ or so.

ADA fan boys(have not yet met a gal like this) often come across as snobs, but these dual stage regs with some of this stuff makes the best ADA CO2 system look like plastic bubbling skeletons by comparison.


----------



## OVT

GraphicGr8s said:


> Hey OVT what is wrong with the regs for beer? Are they all single stage?


2 shiny, sexy, brand new, single stage micromatics helped me to gas too many fish. EOTD.

via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


----------



## Darkblade48

plantbrain said:


> ADA fan boys(have not yet met a gal like this) often come across as snobs, but these dual stage regs with some of this stuff makes the* best ADA CO2 system look like plastic bubbling skeletons by comparison.*


Another gem from Tom Barr :hihi:

On another note, would you happen to have a source for the digital gauges? Would be interesting to use them in a DIY Aquarium controller.


----------



## andrewjohn007

*WTF? A wall of wire mesh? Inlet filter?*

A few posts back, I asked for some guidance in regards to an Air Products regulator that needed some modification. Darkblade was kind enough to point a noob down the right path, yet expressed his concern since I was converting a reg that was previously used for NO2. (Hopefully it was coming in under 10 seconds on the quarter mile.)

So I get the CGA-326 nipple/nut off without too much difficulty only to reveal what appears to be a dense wire mesh within the intake port. Please see the photo and tell me I didn't hit a dead end... Could this be some form of intake filter? Specific for NO2 use maybe?

Any advice appreciated!


----------



## oldpunk78

Leave it alone. That's what air products uses for a filter.


----------



## andrewjohn007

Great news. Thank you for taking the time to field that one.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

What does it mean when the mineral oil turns brown? I haven't change the oil since my regulator been up.


----------



## oldpunk78

Something is probably corroding in your bubble counter.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Well that can't be good.


----------



## Mathman

What up fellas...man, it's been awhile since last post.

I'm contemplating the idea of having two VTS 450D rebuilt. I purchased them from a seller on eBay....long time ago...anyways, the seller agreed to refund the money I paid for them as they did not work.

So, each reg was like $12 (shipping cost)

I would like to get them rebuilt and converted for co2 usage. 

I honestly am done buying from eBay as I have no luck. Each reg will cost $60 to rebuild.

Let me know what you think.

~Cris


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hey Mathman, 

I don't search ebay anymore but don't they usually have Concoa for 60 and less? What about a high purity regulator? You get the scientific/medical clean look rather than a welding look. 

Then again, if you don't care about looks, 60 bucks for two Victor is still a great deal.


----------



## Mathman

FlyingHellFish said:


> Hey Mathman,
> 
> I don't search ebay anymore but don't they usually have Concoa for 60 and less? What about a high purity regulator? You get the scientific/medical clean look rather than a welding look.
> 
> Then again, if you don't care about looks, 60 bucks for two Victor is still a great deal.


What up buddy!

I like the gold look and design of the VTS 450. Just a massive golden nugget. I have plans on an all 1/4" post body too. Ill keep you guys posted once i receive the parts.


----------



## creekbottom

If you have a Swagelok poppet check valve with tube fittings, 1/3 psi cracking pressure... Is it possible that there could be enough water pressure in the reactor to force water through it? When the CO2 isn't running water gets through! So much for an expensive check valve lol.

And I quadruple checked the arrow when I installed it.


----------



## ua hua

creekbottom said:


> If you have a Swagelok poppet check valve with tube fittings, 1/3 psi cracking pressure... Is it possible that there could be enough water pressure in the reactor to force water through it? When the CO2 isn't running water gets through! So much for an expensive check valve lol.
> 
> And I quadruple checked the arrow when I installed it.


I have a Swagelok check valve and run a reactor and have never had problems with the water coming back. I also run a cheaper s/s check valve between the Swagelok check valve and the reactor. It may be a little redundant but it gives me piece of mind that my regulator will be protected.


----------



## oldpunk78

creekbottom said:


> If you have a Swagelok poppet check valve with tube fittings, 1/3 psi cracking pressure... Is it possible that there could be enough water pressure in the reactor to force water through it? When the CO2 isn't running water gets through! So much for an expensive check valve lol.
> 
> And I quadruple checked the arrow when I installed it.


Any check valves in constant contact with aquarium water are destin to fail sooner or later. Redundancy is best.


----------



## andrewjohn007

*Thank you TPT, Old Punk and Darkblade...*

A premature shout out to this site and its members for giving me the direction and guidance to assemble this AP dual stage for less than most online bargain regulators. (and props to Matt F. at BR for the Burkert tutorial). 

Of course I haven't leak tested the unit just yet, so if it totally craters I will have jinxed myself in sublime fashion...

I am waiting on the arrival of a Swagelok check valve to protect the Fabco before I wet run it...

Fabco - Gainesville
Julian Sprung - Gainesville
GLA - Gainesville
My first planted tank 1996 - Gainesville (Alice, Pam and Tom aka K. Cobain)

(The sky is Orange and the sun is Blue...)


----------



## acitydweller

Just wanted to say thanks for helping me repair my single stage that had broke during a recent move. Still looking for a dual stage but its nice to see so many gorgeous ones being built here.


----------



## c_gwinner

All credit for the help on this goes to oldpunk:




Everything is stainless except for the cga fitting which is chrome plated cuz my budget was running short. Still need to wire up the solenoid and get a co2 tank, but budget got cut short for the moment.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Is that a Concoa 212-3-4? I don't think that SS, the diaphragm is stainless steel but the body is chrome brass. 

Ah, I see a Swagelok SS Elbow, those things are expensive.

Very beautiful custom regulator build either way, congrats!


----------



## c_gwinner

FlyingHellFish said:


> Is that a Concoa 212-3-4? I don't think that SS, the diaphragm is stainless steel but the body is chrome brass.
> 
> Ah, I see a Swagelok SS Elbow, those things are expensive.
> 
> Very beautiful custom regulator build either way, congrats!


You are correct on the chromed brass body. Considering the reg body was free and just had to get the post body I'm pretty happy. Thanks bud. all those swagelok SS fittings cost me a pretty penny, but I felt the need to go big on this regulator.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ I only know because that Concoa 212's was the one model I always wanted. 

Oh, and nice teflon work, very clean.


----------



## c_gwinner

Thanks, got that skill down when installed the gas lines for our instruments at work. This is kinda how this reg became available for me since we replaced everything with a central gas system and regulators.


----------



## pwu_1

Question on the various Used regulators on eBay. Looking at the specs on some of the regulators I'm finding on [Ebay Link Removed] For example a Concoa 400 series regulator. The spec sheet lists several outlet pressure options for the regulator. 
The question is, is this just solely based on the output gauge they put on the regulator or is there an internal part that actually limits the output pressure? 
Basically, if I pick up any 400 series regulator, can I just change the output gauge to whatever range I need or do I need to look for one that has the right gauge already since there is something internal that limits the output pressure?


----------



## larams67

The actual pressure is provided by the regulator itself. Whatever gauges you use must be rated for that pressure or above.


----------



## PlantedRich

If I understand the question correctly, yes, there are internal parts or designs that limit the output. The diaphram and channels cut through the body are some limiting factors. If you have a reg that is limited to some point like 30 PSI by design, you will not be able to change the meter and get higher. But we use such low pressure that I don't find too many of the quality regs that are too low for us. We tend to think of our tanks as high pressure but when compared to many uses for regs, our use is pretty lowball. The tank pressure is high but our output is very low. Just the basic shop compressor will go far beyond 100PSI. 
It sure pays to check before buying, though.


----------



## pwu_1

PlantedRich said:


> If I understand the question correctly, yes, there are internal parts or designs that limit the output. The diaphram and channels cut through the body are some limiting factors. If you have a reg that is limited to some point like 30 PSI by design, you will not be able to change the meter and get higher. But we use such low pressure that I don't find too many of the quality regs that are too low for us. We tend to think of our tanks as high pressure but when compared to many uses for regs, our use is pretty lowball. The tank pressure is high but our output is very low. Just the basic shop compressor will go far beyond 100PSI.
> It sure pays to check before buying, though.


Thanks for your input. 
Some of the ceramic diffusers require 30-40 psi and in the example I gave above, the spec sheet for the regulator has options for maximum output pressure from 15 psi to 100 psi. 
I was just wondering if the 100psi rated regulator is the same as the 15psi one except having a different gauge. Sounds like there is something internal that would need to be changed to go from say the 15psi regulator to the 100psi regulator.
Once again thanks for your help.


----------



## kevmo911

That "something internal that would need to be changed" is very rarely done in this hobby. It would require knowing how to do it (which means the willingness to possibly trash one or more regs as you figure it out) and having the tools to do it. There are some posts from people who have done this - or claim to - and they say it's not hard, but generally the feeling is it's more trouble than it's worth. And it wouldn't require you to change the gauge, but it would probably help to do so in order to get accurate readings.


----------



## PlantedRich

On the lower end regs, things can be replaced but for the higher end, I would not feel equipted and ready to do the interior changes needed. There has to be a time when we admit avoiding trouble is better than fighting through.


----------



## pwu_1

I would not consider changing any internal part in the regulator to suit my needs. More trouble than it is worth.

I was just curious because I've seen some regulators on ebay that are pretty cheap but some of them don't come with any gauges at all. Looking up the spec for the regulator and I see many options for output pressure. Was wondering if it was as easy as just putting on the gauge I want but from what you guys are telling me, I think its definitely more trouble than its worth.


----------



## Darkblade48

pwu_1 said:


> I would not consider changing any internal part in the regulator to suit my needs. More trouble than it is worth.
> 
> I was just curious because I've seen some regulators on ebay that are pretty cheap but some of them don't come with any gauges at all. Looking up the spec for the regulator and I see many options for output pressure. Was wondering if it was as easy as just putting on the gauge I want but from what you guys are telling me, I think its definitely more trouble than its worth.


Putting on a new gauge does not change the set maximum output pressure of the regulator. 

You can adjust working pressure with the knob on the front of the regulator.

An analogy:

The regulator's maximum output pressure is the maximum speed of your car. Changing the speedometer's maximum to (say) 500 km/hour will not mean your car is capable of going 500 km/hour.

Adjusting the working pressure with the knob on the front of the regulator is like your accelerator pedal in the car. 

Hope this clears up the confusion.


----------



## jeremy va

If any of you builders have a decent quality reg "on the shelf" that can supply at least two tanks (i.e.: has a manifold with two or more needle valves/bubble counters I need to purchase one quickly. PM me please. Looks not so important as being in proper working condition. Thanks!


----------



## jeremy va

*Q on wall mounts*

Notwithstanding my previous post where I'm looking for a reg for immediate use I'd like to build my own system and have read this entire string and more. Josh built my last one but he is not building them anymore -(.

One thing I've seen on the auction site whose name shall not be mentioned are the set ups with flexible stainless high pressure hose. These look like they were salvaged from medical, computer or science applications. The thing that strikes me is that (assuming the regulator itself is working and useable in our world and assuming that it was not used for cyanide gas) the parts could be reconfigured so one could have a wall mounted regulator/needle valve/bubble counter with the co2 tank somewhere below. This is purely for looks as they say. 

I clipped a photo below at random that has a matheson reg and some neat stainless tubing with swagelock fittings what look like cut off valves (but could be needle valves with a lever action, I suppose) and so on. It looks like the reg in this one is set up with two inputs -- presumably for two tanks. One would need to be plugged. It bears the model number 99111 which does not show up in Matheson's current product list so maybe it is a custom made application. It all looks like stainless from the photo but what do I know.

So assuming these things are functional and assuming that the reg itself is suitable for co2 I wondered if anyone has used one of these set ups to build a wall mounted rig and, if so, if there are any major issues to watch for? Come to think of it, I wonder why I have not seen wall mounts more often -- I think there is one example in this entire 14 page string... Thanks -- and also thank you for an incredibly useful string on building!


----------



## pwu_1

ok I need some more help. I found a guy locally that is selling both a Victor VTS-450D and a Matheson 3122-350 regulator. I'm going to meet with him today and get one of the regulators. The problem is I can't decide which one to get?
The Victor is currently set up with a CGA-346 nipple for oxygen while the Matheson is set up with a CGA-350. 
I like the Matheson because it is smaller and lighter but looking at the usage for CGA-350 makes me kind of nervous with all kinds of poisonous gas allowed(spec sheet for the matheson says non-corrosive gas only but seems like CGA-350 allows some corrosive gas?). 
The Victor is set up for oxygen but from my research the thing is HUGE plus this one is missing the low pressure gauge so I'd need to get a new gauge for it. 
Without knowing the history behind these regulators, I'm trying to see if it is possible to determine which one might have a less chance of being broken based solely on the fitting currently on the regulator.
Or am I totally over thinking this and should just close my eyes and pick one?
So yeah, a lot of paralysis by analysis happening here. Any opinions would be greatly appreciated. TIA


----------



## c_gwinner

jeremy va said:


> Notwithstanding my previous post where I'm looking for a reg for immediate use I'd like to build my own system and have read this entire string and more. Josh built my last one but he is not building them anymore -(.
> 
> One thing I've seen on the auction site whose name shall not be mentioned are the set ups with flexible stainless high pressure hose. These look like they were salvaged from medical, computer or science applications. The thing that strikes me is that (assuming the regulator itself is working and useable in our world and assuming that it was not used for cyanide gas) the parts could be reconfigured so one could have a wall mounted regulator/needle valve/bubble counter with the co2 tank somewhere below. This is purely for looks as they say.
> 
> I clipped a photo below at random that has a matheson reg and some neat stainless tubing with swagelock fittings what look like cut off valves (but could be needle valves with a lever action, I suppose) and so on. It looks like the reg in this one is set up with two inputs -- presumably for two tanks. One would need to be plugged. It bears the model number 99111 which does not show up in Matheson's current product list so maybe it is a custom made application. It all looks like stainless from the photo but what do I know.
> 
> So assuming these things are functional and assuming that the reg itself is suitable for co2 I wondered if anyone has used one of these set ups to build a wall mounted rig and, if so, if there are any major issues to watch for? Come to think of it, I wonder why I have not seen wall mounts more often -- I think there is one example in this entire 14 page string... Thanks -- and also thank you for an incredibly useful string on building!


This rig is set up to have 2 bottles with a switchover with one outlet. It is meant to have 2 bottles hooked into the system, the knob in the middle is the switchover that directs which bottle to draw pressure from as priority, an when a low pressure reading (say around 200psi) for the bottle is read, it automatically switches to the second bottle. The top gauge is the outlet pressure and works just like a normal regulator. This setup would really only be useful for a very large aquarium where a lot of CO2 is being used, or if you had a manifold for several different tanks on the outlet of the regulator.

Most of these set ups are custom made and are quite expensive. This is probably the reason why you dont see many people have them set up for CO2 reg builds. 

Hope this info helps you.


----------



## jeremy va

That's interesting. The darn things are so cool though and they seem to all be less than $100-- I'm wondering how I could do some sort of mod so I wind up with something that functions as a regulator for a multi-tank feed but looks cool!


----------



## pwu_1

Ok. I met with the guy and decided to get the Victor VTS-450D. This sucker is huge! I think I have all the parts I need ordered so should be able to get the regulator built by end of next week. 

One thing I noticed about the Victor. When I hook it up and open the CO2 bottle, the High pressure gauge builds up to the 800psi pretty slowly. Took like maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute until the needle went to 800psi. Is that normal or is that something I need to worry about?


----------



## Darkblade48

pwu_1 said:


> Ok. I met with the guy and decided to get the Victor VTS-450D. This sucker is huge! I think I have all the parts I need ordered so should be able to get the regulator built by end of next week.
> 
> One thing I noticed about the Victor. When I hook it up and open the CO2 bottle, the High pressure gauge builds up to the 800psi pretty slowly. Took like maybe 30 seconds to 1 minute until the needle went to 800psi. Is that normal or is that something I need to worry about?


It could be something wrong. In my experience, the high pressure gauge usually indicates the cylinder pressure immediately (within a second or two) of opening the cylinder valve.

You do not have oil filled gauges by any chance, do you?


----------



## pwu_1

Darkblade48 said:


> It could be something wrong. In my experience, the high pressure gauge usually indicates the cylinder pressure immediately (within a second or two) of opening the cylinder valve.
> 
> You do not have oil filled gauges by any chance, do you?


Its not an oil filled gauge. Its the stock gauge. 

Yeah I thought it was kind of odd too that the gauge pressure went up slowly like that. Hm now I'm wondering if the gauge is bad or something is wrong with this regulator.

Edit. weird. I just hooked it up again and this time the gauge shot up to 800psi right away. Maybe its because it hasn't been used in a while. I'm going to try and not obsess over it too much. Just waiting for all the parts now


----------



## chew

I've read quite a bit on this threads and others like it and I just wanna say thanks to everyone that helps people out here. This is what i have to look forward to this weekend


----------



## pwu_1

Almost done...


----------



## Pen3

Who is selling quality co2 parts here now days?


----------



## oldpunk78

Pen3 said:


> Who is selling quality co2 parts here now days?


Post a wtb thread. If someone is looking to off stuff you need, that's usually the easiest way. I can think of a couple people who hoard parts but I'm not sure if they're willing to sell.


----------



## TrueAdrian

Oldpunk thank you for this, gonna start buying what I need and had a question

I want to use









but was wondering how you connect it to the outlet? do they sell the one shown in this picture?









Or does it connect directly to a PH controller? (with a couple of wires)


----------



## AlanLe

Hey guys is that a 45 degree elbow (mounted on LP port) Bettatail using? 


Bettatail said:


> Picture one?
> 
> the Victor VTS250 is bottom outlet, the angle make the parts of postbody kind of hard to arrange.
> 
> with an extra elbow fitting you can make the postbody even better, I think Oldpunk had a set with VTS 250, nice arrangement, ask him to find the picture.
> here is one of the set(VTS250), two outputs that I built, but different parts for the postbody.


----------



## Darkblade48

AlanLe said:


> Hey guys is that a 45 degree elbow (mounted on LP port) Bettatail using?


It probably is. I also use a 45 degree.


----------



## AlanLe

For the Victor HPT 500, what does "DK" means in the model number?
For example HPT500-60-580-DK.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Don't Know


----------



## Darkblade48

AlanLe said:


> For the Victor HPT 500, what does "DK" means in the model number?
> For example HPT500-60-580-DK.


I believe it is a modifier for the type of valve that comes out of the regulator, in this case "diaphragm valve".

You have a Series 500, HPT regulator, that has a low pressure gauge that goes up to 60 PSI, with a CGA580 inlet, it appears.


----------



## AlanLe

Darkblade48 said:


> I believe it is a modifier for the type of valve that comes out of the regulator, in this case "diaphragm valve".
> 
> You have a Series 500, HPT regulator, that has a low pressure gauge that goes up to 60 PSI, with a CGA580 inlet, it appears.


Thanks for the info. I'm aware of the PSI output and CGA580 inlet. Just curious to find out what "DK" means. In this case, the modified diaphragm valve does not impact our purpose right?

Sent from my CS-1A13 using Tapatalk


----------



## AlanLe

Here's my 3810 with new gauges. The gauges look big though. 









Parts









Matheson Ultraline 9467. It comes with VCR ports. Im going to convert it soon.


----------



## andyl9063

TrueAdrian said:


> Oldpunk thank you for this, gonna start buying what I need and had a question
> 
> I want to use
> 
> 
> but was wondering how you connect it to the outlet? do they sell the one shown in this picture?
> 
> 
> Or does it connect directly to a PH controller? (with a couple of wires)


the wire you see connected to the mouse solenoid is the 12/24 vdc from clippard. You'll want to look at this thread:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=154557


----------



## FlyingHellFish

I can't compete with those fancy regulators but I got something better. A swagelok bag, pen and post it notes. 









=======









Freebies! They love me!


----------



## AlanLe

FlyingHellFish said:


> I can't compete with those fancy regulators but I got something better. A swagelok bag, pen and post it notes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> =======
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Freebies! They love me!


Nice! You must have order some goodies in order to get these goodies. There was a very clean 3810 on eBay last week. The auction ended at $67. Hope someone in here got it. By the way, nice glosso. 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## AlanLe

Hey Oldpunk, you used to build a Parker VCR reg. How did that go?

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Wasn't me. How new was the regulator? That is a great price for a 3810.


----------



## AlanLe

FlyingHellFish said:


> Wasn't me. How new was the regulator? That is a great price for a 3810.



It was really new. Shipping was $25. Sellers usually want $140+ for these 3810s. I remember Bettatail had a mini Matheson. I think the model was 3860/3870. It's a hard one to find.


----------



## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Hey Oldpunk, you used to build a Parker VCR reg. How did that go?
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


It worked. It weighed about 2lbs less those Mathesons do though.


----------



## Xenaph

Here mine, thank to darkblade48


----------



## Spiffyfish

I'm just starting out with plants and was looking at the atomic v3 regulator, what is more effective for a beginner to by a premade unit or build one? Cost wise and being a beginner what would be the better option?


----------



## oldpunk78

Unless you want to do a lot of research, a pre built reg is probably your best option. I like to recommend gla because they do a pretty good job of helping you get what you'll need starting out.


----------



## Spiffyfish

So as far as the v3 regulator there shouldn't be any problem with end of tank dump? I have some f1 altums and cardinal tetras I don't want to kill.


----------



## Mathman

If a regulator's maximum outlet pressure is 60psi...


It is to my understanding that the actual working pressure is half of what the regulator is rated for...in this case, it would be 30 psi.

Would this pressure be enough to supply co2 to two tanks?

One tank uses a co2 reactor made using PVC pipes...

Or should I simply stick to regulators whose working pressure is 100psi?

Thanks!


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^Hey Mathman! You're back in the game, what rig are you building? 

30 psi should be enough for something that requires less psi such as an reactor but I would still stick with the 100 psi. 

It's like having a Ferrari with a speed limit, go for a higher psi rig


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

Mathman said:


> If a regulator's maximum outlet pressure is 60psi...
> 
> It is to my understanding that the actual working pressure is half of what the regulator is rated for...in this case, it would be 30 psi.


Outlet pressure = working pressure. You mean the maximum _gauge_ pressure is 60psi.


----------



## AlanLe

Does anyone know where to get the 1/8 male union cross?


----------



## jeffkrol

AlanLe said:


> Does anyone know where to get the 1/8 male union cross?


Not me, might check w/ these people..
http://www.andymark.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Fitting,+Cross,+Brass,+

and 3 of these:
Parker Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Nipple, 1/8" NPT Male X 1/8" NPT Male, 1.06" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

I know that's not what you wanted.. But I think your going to have a hard time finding it..
without calling places
Oddly enough they are made for flare fittings (at least in steel)
http://1013699.en.makepolo.com/prod...-Steel-fittings\UNF\NPT-thread-p21038695.html
adding nipples you could use this as well from fleabay IF tyou can find one in 1/8;


----------



## AlanLe

jeffkrol said:


> Not me, might check w/ these people..
> http://www.andymark.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=Fitting,+Cross,+Brass,+
> 
> and 3 of these:
> Parker Brass Pipe Fitting, Hex Nipple, 1/8" NPT Male X 1/8" NPT Male, 1.06" Length: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
> 
> I know that's not what you wanted.. But I think your going to have a hard time finding it..
> without calling places
> Oddly enough they are made for flare fittings (at least in steel)
> http://1013699.en.makepolo.com/prod...-Steel-fittings\UNF\NPT-thread-p21038695.html
> adding nipples you could use this as well from fleabay IF tyou can find one in 1/8;


Thanks! I found that flare cross too. It's interesting that most places carry female type.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Ooh snap, you thinking of doing a 3 needle valve setup?


----------



## Mathman

Bringing sexy back...

1st...the solenoid will be replaced with a brass one to match the rest of her body. This is probably one of my best arrangements (IMO). Let me know what you think.


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

It looks like a waiter holding two wine glasses on a tray for restaurant patrons. It's kind of comical.


----------



## Mathman

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> It looks like a waiter holding two wine glasses on a tray for restaurant patrons. It's kind of comical.



Fancy restaurant I hope....


----------



## Mathman

This looks aesthetically pleasing too...


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ I think it looks nice, Mathman. I haven't seen much dual needle valve victors before.


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ I think it looks nice, Mathman. I haven't seen much dual needle valve victors before.


I built one earlier for another user. I'll see if I can dig up some photos when I get home.

It was a VTS 453 too, if I remember correctly.


----------



## Mathman

Darkblade48 said:


> I built one earlier for another user. I'll see if I can dig up some photos when I get home.
> 
> It was a VTS 453 too, if I remember correctly.



Awesome...


----------



## c_gwinner

Looks really nice to me. Like the angles on it


----------



## Mathman

^ thank you.

Well...here are the top three arrangements. Based on the input I get from you guys, that's how I'll be building this reg. Thank you.

Option 1:










Option 2:










Option 3:











All arrangements have some parts which will not be on the final set up. The Solenoid will be a brass Burkert 6011 and two NV-55-18.


----------



## Darkblade48

Here we go. Found it (it was in my CO2 primer...of all places!)

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1056456&postcount=12


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ Hey Mathman, what about DarkBlade's config? That inferno 45degree outlet does complicate things.


----------



## oldpunk78

I would like option 3 best if where turned to the left 45 degrees.


----------



## Mathman

It's a nice configuration; however, it's a bit too linear. I think his configuration is similar to option one on my earlier post. I believe he is using a 45 degree elbow from the reg to solenoid. What's your favorite out of the 3 options I posted? BTW...it's been awhile since I talked to you.



oldpunk78 said:


> I would like option 3 best if where turned to the left 45 degrees.



That would require a 45 degree street elbow...do you have any for sale? Or I just can get from eBay.


----------



## oldpunk78

I don't have any parts.

I think this works. You just have to rotate things to where you want them to end up.


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> I don't have any parts.
> 
> I think this works. You just have to rotate things to where you want them to end up.


Now that's saweeeeeeeeeeet!


----------



## Darkblade48

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Hey Mathman, what about DarkBlade's config? That inferno 45degree outlet does complicate things.


Agreed. The 45 degree outlet complicates things, but makes things linear. I gave the end user the option and included a spare 90 degree angle, I believe.

I'm not sure how they're running it now 

In the end, it all depends how you want to end up running it (space constraints, aesthetics, etc).


----------



## Mathman

I wanted to build something where the two bubble counters are facing forward for easy visibility...

I kept playjng around and I am liking this configuration a lot...the only downside is that the LPG is slightly hidden. Let me know what you think.


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

Mathman said:


> I wanted to build something where the two bubble counters are facing forward for easy visibility...
> 
> I kept playjng around and I am liking this configuration a lot...the only downside is that the LPG is slightly hidden. Let me know what you think.


Bubble counters hard-plumbed to the regulator assembly make a good-looking build look ugly. Instead, BC's should be plumbed close or next to the CO2 diffusion equipment. 

Also, the BC's appear to block the working pressure handle. Can the handle even turn with the BC's in place like that?


----------



## Mathman

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> Bubble counters hard-plumbed to the regulator assembly make a good-looking build look ugly. Instead, BC's should be plumbed close or next to the CO2 diffusion equipment.
> 
> 
> 
> Also, the BC's appear to block the working pressure handle. Can the handle even turn with the BC's in place like that?



Plenty of space


----------



## AlanLe

This is how I assemble mine. The 45 degree elbow will do the trick.


----------



## c_gwinner

Mathman said:


> I wanted to build something where the two bubble counters are facing forward for easy visibility...
> 
> I kept playjng around and I am liking this configuration a lot...the only downside is that the LPG is slightly hidden. Let me know what you think.


If you go this route, I would opt to bring it a little further away from the reg body maybe by and inch or inch+1/2 to clear it away from the working pressure gauge. Doing so with a hex long nipple will also drop it down a little though. 

Looks too cluttered and jumbled the way you have it at the moment


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> Bubble counters hard-plumbed to the regulator assembly make a good-looking build look ugly. Instead, BC's should be plumbed close or next to the CO2 diffusion equipment.


Wait what? What kind of a statement is that? Do you sell inline bubble counters? 

Maybe people don't want bubble counters close to their tank, or their diffuser. There no merit to what you said, except the fact that it's not "ugly" to you. 

So to everyone else, "plumb ' em pipes" !


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> I wanted to build something where the two bubble counters are facing forward for easy visibility...
> 
> I kept playjng around and I am liking this configuration a lot...the only downside is that the LPG is slightly hidden. Let me know what you think.


This one is nice I was looking for a way to run 2 fabco NVs an this one fits the bill. U only need to look at tha LPG one time to set it then mainly jus glance at it to double check it down the road. I think it's super compact an love the way u have the choice to run 2 tanks, mine is only set up for 1 tank but I have to lean it on something cuz it will tip the CO2 tank over if I don't.


----------



## Mathman

newbieplanter said:


> This one is nice I was looking for a way to run 2 fabco NVs an this one fits the bill. U only need to look at tha LPG one time to set it then mainly jus glance at it to double check it down the road.



glad you like it...

It uses a 1/4"-1/8" reducer...then the solenoid...then an all male 1/8" npt (use one of the ends of the T to connect to the solenoid). Lastly, two the NV.


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

FlyingHellFish said:


> Wait what? What kind of a statement is that? Do you sell inline bubble counters?
> 
> Maybe people don't want bubble counters close to their tank, or their diffuser. There no merit to what you said, except the fact that it's not "ugly" to you.
> 
> So to everyone else, "plumb ' em pipes" !


I don't sell anything. BCs look ugly hard-plumbed to the assembly build. You're too held on to the idea to see that it looks wrong. BCs have "cool-factor" but just like in-tank diffusers, they grow old and are no longer cool, especially when there are better alternatives. BCs aren't even necessary. Keep It Simple.


----------



## Bettatail

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> I don't sell anything. BCs look ugly hard-plumbed to the assembly build. You're too held on to the idea to see that it looks wrong. BCs have "cool-factor" but just like in-tank diffusers, they grow old and are no longer cool, especially when there are better alternatives. BCs aren't even necessary. Keep It Simple. Stupid.


calm down, there are different methods to go from SF to LA, flight, bus, pov, motorcycle, or walk...
it is personal preference and there is always a reason for someone to pick what is proper.
and no one is stupid.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> I don't sell anything. BCs look ugly hard-plumbed to the assembly build. You're too held on to the idea to see that it looks wrong. BCs have "cool-factor" but just like in-tank diffusers, they grow old and are no longer cool, especially when there are better alternatives. BCs aren't even necessary. Keep It Simple. Stupid.


This guy can't be serious?!? Please bestow to us with your arcane wisdom on why tank diffusers and bubble counters are not needed. 

_In line bubble counters?_ Well, now you got to wait a bit to see the changes. I like to see the difference right away.

_Bubble counters connected to the needle valves is wrong?_ Then literary every retail Co2 regulator, every custom builds are "wrong" according to you. Even the people who wrote the book on Co2 builds must be wrong to include a bubble counter, right? 


Post a picture of your custom Co2 regulator build so I can criticize the colour of the adjustment knob. I should really stop feeding the forum tro..... *ahem.

I bid you a good night madam. *tips fedora*


----------



## Darkblade48

Please keep this thread on topic and do not insult members. Otherwise, this thread will be closed.


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

FlyingHellFish said:


> This guy can't be serious?!? Please bestow to us with your arcane wisdom on why tank diffusers and bubble counters are not needed.
> 
> _In line bubble counters?_ Well, now you got to wait a bit to see the changes. I like to see the difference right away.
> 
> _Bubble counters connected to the needle valves is wrong?_ Then literary every retail Co2 regulator, every custom builds are "wrong" according to you. Even the people who wrote the book on Co2 builds must be wrong to include a bubble counter, right?
> 
> Post a picture of your custom Co2 regulator build so I can criticize the colour of the adjustment knob. I should really stop feeding the forum tro..... *ahem.
> 
> I bid you a good night madam. *tips fedora*


Firstly, I'd like to apologize for the last statement of my previous post. I was trying to spell out the KISS principle but it sounded like an insult instead.

Secondly, using the KISS principle, there's an excess of redundancy in a lot of these kinds of builds. They aren't necessary. Also, form follows function. While I'm not against BCs per se, they shouldn't be attached to the assembly build _if_ it gets in the way of everything else including the aesthetics. You wouldn't design a car around a cup holder, nor would you stick it on the dashboard as an afterthought. All elements must create a well-organized and balanced whole. I see none of that in most builds.

Thirdly, I never said these builds were wrong - you selectively misquoted me. They _look wrong and ugly_ with all those mismatched and/or poorly chosen parts, poorly thought out arrangements, and strict adherence to the "norm". Rectify these issues and the builds will look good standing next to the tank, not just under the cabinet with the door closed.


----------



## Darkblade48

Last warning. I'm issuing infractions and closing the thread after this.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Hey Anthony, you're right, I'm done with the issue here.

Besides, I like Josh too much to see his thread close or any of the informative threads over something so trivial.


----------



## Jeff5614

FlyingHellFish said:


> Wait what? What kind of a statement is that? Do you sell inline bubble counters?
> 
> Maybe people don't want bubble counters close to their tank, or their diffuser. There no merit to what you said, except the fact that it's not "ugly" to you.
> 
> So to everyone else, "plumb ' em pipes" !


Oops, I just realized I've mistaken you for someone else. My apologies. Must have been sleepy still when I read the post.


----------



## ua hua

Darkblade48 said:


> Last warning. I'm issuing infractions and closing the thread after this.


I really hope this doesn't happen as this is a very informative thread. Removing those that can't stay on topic and are insulting is a much better fix. I don't really understand all this negativity when it comes to building regulators but it has been happening a lot lately and not only on this forum I might add. Everyone has the right to their opinion and way of doing things but to belittle someone else's choice in the way they do things is rather ridiculous. To each is own.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

Jeff5614 said:


> Don't get too self righteous. I've seen you make similar comments about other types of equipment such as inline diffusers being garbage. It's all a matter of personal preference.


Apologizes if I came out that way. To be honest, you are one of the few people I enjoy debating with.

I completely agree with you ua hua. I don't want Josh's thread close so I'll just take a break from posting in this thread on my own accord.


----------



## oldpunk78

You guys are silly. While i think this forum is a bit over moderated, it's the nature of the beast when you've got a family viewing situation. 

Folks get opinionated. Some get offended with others statements. Beyond that, it's really hard to put a tone on what you're trying to get across sometimes.

The bickering as of late has more to do with just a handful of us and how ethical we are when we go about our business. I'm gonna try to stay away from that. 

These regulators have come a long way in a relatively short amount of time. With that comes learning experiences, errors and miss conception. We find new things that work and new things that work that have short comings later on. Take for example the 2282 or whatever the number is. It's a great solenoid. However, the wire leads used really brittle plastic and I bet a number of you guys have had trouble with this or will sooner or later. 

What this thread was and is about is helping others. We all like different stuff and styles and all have different reasons for our own tastes be it for the best function or best looking or most cost effective build.


----------



## newbieplanter

oldpunk78 said:


> You guys are silly. While i think this forum is a bit over moderated, it's the nature of the beast when you've got a family viewing situation.
> 
> Folks get opinionated. Some get offended with others statements. Beyond that, it's really hard to put a tone on what you're trying to get across sometimes.
> 
> The bickering as of late has more to do with just a handful of us and how ethical we are when we go about our business. I'm gonna try to stay away from that.
> 
> These regulators have come a long way in a relatively short amount of time. With that comes learning experiences, errors and miss conception. We find new things that work and new things that work that have short comings later on. Take for example the 2282 or whatever the number is. It's a great solenoid. However, the wire leads used really brittle plastic and I bet a number of you guys have have trouble with this or will sooner or later.
> 
> What this thread was and is about is helping others. We all like different stuff and styles and all have different reasons for our own tastes be it for the best function or best looking or most cost effective build.


Well put OP, one of many who help.


----------



## Darkblade48

*Let's please keep the thread on topic *

I'll comment a bit on the previous posts.



ua hua said:


> I really hope this doesn't happen as this is a very informative thread. Removing those that can't stay on topic and are insulting is a much better fix.


As long as users can stop bickering and stay on topic, then the thread will remain open.

I have seen threads that degenerate into bickering wars between two (or more) users, and then there are multiple posts to clean up (not worth spending the time picking through all the posts). This is when threads get closed.



ua hua said:


> I don't really understand all this negativity when it comes to building regulators but it has been happening a lot lately and not only on this forum I might add. Everyone has the right to their opinion and way of doing things but to belittle someone else's choice in the way they do things is rather ridiculous. To each is own.


Indeed, everyone has the right to their own opinion and even expressing it. But the line is drawn when it comes to insulting/belittling other members. This is not permitted, as outlined in the Acceptable Use Policy. 

If you (or anyone else) sees this happening, please use the "report post" button on the left hand side (under the user name) to let the moderation team know.



oldpunk78 said:


> While i think this forum is a bit over moderated, it's the nature of the beast when you've got a family viewing situation.


The moderation team tries to keep a fair and even approach when applying the Acceptable Use Policy. This is, indeed, a family oriented website, so we have to keep everything "PG" rated. This means no profanity (even if censored or abbreviated), no offensive content, etc. Of course, topics such as religion and politics are also off bounds, since they often tend to incite bickering.



oldpunk78 said:


> What this thread was and is about is helping others. We all like different stuff and styles and all have different reasons for our own tastes be it for the best function or best looking or most cost effective build.


Well said. 

Everyone, please remember that The Planted Tank is meant to be a forum for sharing knowledge and helping spread the hobby.


----------



## Kensho

I am waiting for a Concoa 312 body to show up and am building a shopping list. 
I like the thought of a low voltage selinoid. What are my options ? 


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Sorry tried to edit my last post and add...

Would a Swagelok 1/8" Stainless Steel Angle Pattern Metering valve SS-2MA4-SL Work (well)?
I like the idea of a native 1/8 in and out.


----------



## Darkblade48

The SS-2MA4-SL should work fine. What kind of aquarium are you running it on? I like the S series for most applications, since the M series allows a bit more flow than I like.


----------



## Kensho

A new setup putting it together now.
~34g 20/20/20 cube. Aquabeam 600s 14000k and grobeam 600 4500k, macro and micros.

May old tank 30g tall ran with the above with no C02, moved to Tx and am ready to roll. Well pretty much moving with two young girls has my attention fragmented......

Went with a Product fabco NV-55-18 with 1/8 NPT Ports


Still need to decide on the selinoid! 




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


----------



## Mathman

Sharing the end product....




























What's funny is that I just put this together out of boredom and of course to continue learning...I already have a regulator...










Maybe this is the beginning of a collection? Who knows.


----------



## c_gwinner

Really like the final post body set up you got on that Victor Mathman. Looks really good. Must be nice parts laying around to collect CO2 regulators haha, at least you can make some decent money selling them when you want.


----------



## Mathman

c_gwinner said:


> Really like the final post body set up you got on that Victor Mathman. Looks really good. Must be nice parts laying around to collect CO2 regulators haha, at least you can make some decent money selling them when you want.



Thank you. I have two more VTS regulators to build. I think I'll be selling those...just need a few more parts.


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> Sharing the end product....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What's funny is that I just put this together out of boredom and of course to continue learning...I already have a regulator...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe this is the beginning of a collection? Who knows.


I still like tha Vic. If there was a way to get the NVs on last one under the control knob with one on each side of control knob that would look cool as hell.


----------



## Mathman

newbieplanter said:


> I still like tha Vic. If there was a way to get the NVs on last one under the control knob with one on each side of control knob that would look cool as hell.



Wouldn't that require a lot of fittings? Either way, I'll keep your idea in mind.


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> Wouldn't that require a lot of fittings? Either way, I'll keep your idea in mind.


Yea it would but if it could be done with too many that would be cool too lol


----------



## Milligreen

*Need some help*

Hey all so I'm new to the co2. been doing the DIY with sugar and yeast, its a pain haha. looking into getting a co2 regulator, could possibly get a nice concoa 315 reg or a smith on ebay for 53$. they both do need connections for co2 tank, don't really know what one though. also wondering what adapters and connections will i need. when i do get my hands on it, if i send a pic do you guys think could help me threw getting the parts to get this thing up and running on a co2 tank?


----------



## Darkblade48

Milligreen said:


> they both do need connections for co2 tank, don't really know what one though.


This connection is a CGA320 nut and nipple.



Milligreen said:


> also wondering what adapters and connections will i need.


This depends what post body kit you want to use. In general, you will need some 1/8" fittings.



Milligreen said:


> when i do get my hands on it, if i send a pic do you guys think could help me threw getting the parts to get this thing up and running on a co2 tank?


Yes


----------



## AlanLe

This is my assembly for the VTS450.


----------



## FlyingHellFish

^ How that is a unique design! I haven't seen that type of connection on a Victor. What you use to make it so shinny? Basso?


----------



## AlanLe

Yes brasso will work. 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Mathman

Alright, here is my plan for my HPT 500. As of now, it has brass swagelok fittings. I am thinking of using all SS. Let me know what you guys think.


----------



## newbieplanter

Mathman said:


> Alright, here is my plan for my HPT 500. As of now, it has brass swagelok fittings. I am thinking of using all SS. Let me know what you guys think.


Saweet i would run with tha SS fittings tho. I would also see if a couple bubble counters would fit, 1 between the reg and the first NV and the other between the 2 NVs. A couple 90s on the ends looks like it should work.


----------



## Mathman

newbieplanter said:


> Saweet i would run with tha SS fittings tho. I would also see if a couple bubble counters would fit, 1 between the reg and the first NV and the other between the 2 NVs. A couple 90s on the ends looks like it should work.



Thanks!

The fittings will be replaced with SS. The bubble counters will be inline. I'll be adding two 90 degree elbows at the end of the NV so that the connection for the tubing is downward or sideways depending on how the elbows fit.


----------



## Italionstallion888

Thanks for all the information, I've decided to pull the trigger and start buying parts to put a pressurized system together. I have a few questions before I start this journey.

Based on page one

I'm picking up
Burkert 6011
Fabco NV-55
CGA-320 nut/nipple
JBJ bubble counter (?)

my question is, how do I know what fittings and check valve to purchase? Do I need to have a design in place before I get the fittings I need? I just want a simple set up that works. I don't need fancy or flashy, just something that works like it should. I've never messed with anything like this, so this is new territory for me. 

Is there a way I could build this to run 2 tanks at the same time. I have a double stack stand with a 55g on top and a 10g below. I would like to use this to run both tanks. Do I just use a splitter after the bubble counter to each tank? 

Thank you!


----------



## charlie 1

Italionstallion888 said:


> Thanks for all the information, I've decided to pull the trigger and start buying parts to put a pressurized system together. I have a few questions before I start this journey.
> 
> Based on page one
> 
> I'm picking up
> Burkert 6011
> Fabco NV-55
> CGA-320 nut/nipple
> JBJ bubble counter (?)
> 
> my question is, how do I know what fittings and check valve to purchase? Do I need to have a design in place before I get the fittings I need? I just want a simple set up that works. I don't need fancy or flashy, just something that works like it should. I've never messed with anything like this, so this is new territory for me.
> 
> Is there a way I could build this to run 2 tanks at the same time. I have a double stack stand with a 55g on top and a 10g below. I would like to use this to run both tanks. Do I just use a splitter after the bubble counter to each tank?
> 
> Thank you!


You will need to have 2 fabco & 2 bubble counters, 1 each to control each tank.
A few post above #`s 666 & 667 are pictures of one example that illustrate how it can be done.
Regards


----------



## Italionstallion888

That's what I thought, but wasn't sure if I could just split it off one. Thanks for the info on that. 

Could I build it just for one tank, and add on the additional later? It doesn't seem like building this is a one and done type of deal correct.


----------



## charlie 1

Italionstallion888 said:


> That's what I thought, but wasn't sure if I could just split it off one. Thanks for the info on that.
> 
> Could I build it just for one tank, and add on the additional later? It doesn't seem like building this is a one and done type of deal correct.


Yes & Yes.
Regards
P.S> do a search on youtube for " Custom Build Regulator for Aquarium CO2 Systems", there is a good video that will give you a better visual of putting these things together.
Also the very first post on page 1 of this thread.


----------



## Mathman

Here's another one I put together using two Fabco NV. If you want inexpensive fittings go to your local hardware store or use eBay.


----------



## jeffkrol

Blue/black things ..Just disconnects or check valves?? IF CV what brand..


----------



## jrman83

They are quick disconnects.


----------



## CluelessAquarist

Hey all you experts  I'm soon to be entering the wild wondrous world of co2. I'm I'm the market for a regulator, and I just found a Victor vts450D "inert gas regulator" that is two staged. Looks like I could get it for about $25, i s this a good deal or are there better deals to be had? Thanks in advance to any and all replies!


----------



## Darkblade48

If it works, it is a good deal. 

The VTS450 is a relatively large and heavy regulator. Very well built.


----------



## CluelessAquarist

Darkblade48 said:


> If it works, it is a good deal.
> 
> The VTS450 is a relatively large and heavy regulator. Very well built.


Sounds good. What is the general price for a used working vts450 (if you know)? 
Also, since you're a mod, where would I put a thread that is asking for help building a regulator? I feel like this isn't the correct thread to just butt in and ask 100 questions


----------



## Darkblade48

CluelessAquarist said:


> Sounds good. What is the general price for a used working vts450 (if you know)?
> Also, since you're a mod, where would I put a thread that is asking for help building a regulator? I feel like this isn't the correct thread to just butt in and ask 100 questions


Hard to say what the "regular" price on a used piece of equipment is, especially since that over the last few years, demand has been increasing significantly.

A brand new one would be at least several hundred dollars (US), however.

As for your other questions, starting a new thread in the 'Equipment' subforum would be the most appropriate.


----------



## andrewjohn007

*First SS Build*

Graduated today - completed my first SS build with a Linde medical grade dual stage regulator, Burkert solenoid, Ideal FNV and an SMC check valve. Thanks again to those who shared their experience on building these fine looking regs...


----------



## ThatGuyWithTheFish

Do solenoids and needle valve need to be installed in a specific direction with regards to gas flow?


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

ThatGuyWithTheFish said:


> Do solenoids and needle valve need to be installed in a specific direction with regards to gas flow?


Yes. Both NVs and solenoids are directional.


----------



## gus6464

Hey guys so I got a Victor 7-0155 (which is a VTS253b-320) coming this week and have to decide on parts. I have already decided on the burkert solenoid from aquariumplants.com but trying to decide on needle valve. How much better is the Ideal V-52-1-12 vs the Fabco NV-55-18? The Ideal valve is kinda pricey. I have a local Swagelok shop so getting all my fittings from there.


----------



## Solcielo lawrencia

gus6464 said:


> Hey guys so I got a Victor 7-0155 (which is a VTS253b-320) coming this week and have to decide on parts. I have already decided on the burkert solenoid from aquariumplants.com but trying to decide on needle valve. How much better is the Ideal V-52-1-12 vs the Fabco NV-55-18? The Ideal valve is kinda pricey. I have a local Swagelok shop so getting all my fittings from there.


Function to price ratio is pretty low for the Ideal over the Fabco; once you dial the flow in, you'll probably never touch it again. However, it's really helpful for dialing in CO2 for small tanks due to the ability for fine flow rates (from 0-1bps).


----------



## gus6464

Solcielo lawrencia said:


> Function to price ratio is pretty low for the Ideal over the Fabco; once you dial the flow in, you'll probably never touch it again. However, it's really helpful for dialing in CO2 for small tanks due to the ability for fine flow rates (from 0-1bps).


It's a 50g tank so I will definitely be pushing more than 1bps so I guess I don't need the fine tuning of the Ideal.


----------



## oldpunk78

gus6464 said:


> It's a 50g tank so I will definitely be pushing more than 1bps so I guess I don't need the fine tuning of the Ideal.


A better needle valve is pretty much always worth it. Being able to easily adjust you co2 worth the extra cash imo. Don't get me wrong, the fabco is fine for the price but if you don't mind spending more or doing some hunting, you will be rewarded.


----------



## gus6464

oldpunk78 said:


> A better needle valve is pretty much always worth it. Being able to easily adjust you co2 worth the extra cash imo. Don't get me wrong, the fabco is fine for the price but if you don't mind spending more or doing some hunting, you will be rewarded.


I am doing an extension to my regulator to run a 60-P. Is there a needle valve other than the Ideal that I should hunt for that's not $100?


----------



## Bettatail

gus6464 said:


> I am doing an extension to my regulator to run a 60-P. Is there a needle valve other than the Ideal that I should hunt for that's not $100?


you have to try your luck to find a good metering valve at a fraction of the actual retail price.
ideal is small brand and not popular in the industry, so to find a liquidated or a used, chance is weak.
other popular industrial grade metering valves, around the control range of ideal, are swagelok and HOKE, and they are actually higher manufacture retail price than its counterpart ideal, but since the market is popular, you can always find liquidated old stock or used for a fraction of the retail price.

and, 

there are more other higher precision metering valves available, the Parker stainless steel H3L model that appear on evil bay last year for $25 a piece, was actual about $450 a piece Parker price, and the cheapest in its series is about $250, the Turn Counter Vernier handle is $125 alone if order separately from Parker.


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## rrattani

Hi, I am considering buying used VWR 55850-115 from -e-b-a-y-...The price ranged from between 25$ - 35$.

I wasn't able to find the detailed specs for the model on vwr website.

I am hoping if someone could take a look at the listings, and let me know if they are dual stage as the listing suggests, and whether its a good deal or not.

Thanks.

P.S.: Tried posting the links to the -e-b-a-y- listing but i guess that is not allowed, would appreciate you could search there for VWR 55850-115 and let me know.


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## flowerfishs

yes. that's a dual stage regulator.


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## gus6464

Those VWR regs look like a steal at that price.


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## oldpunk78

Answered via pm


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## oldpunk78

Has anyone built a regulator with the new Clippard solenoid yet?


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## oldpunk78

oldpunk78 said:


> Has anyone built a regulator with the new Clippard solenoid yet?


No one?


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## paquette12

*Congrat to me*

Congrat to me
Not cause I've build one of those unique and awesome reg.
Not cause I've got one of those steal deal on [Ebay Link Removed]
Just cause I spent the entire day (and a bit more as it is 1:50am) to read this entire thread (almost, have to say I skipped couple post when it was more 'unique case' related).

Have to say it's a lot in my head at the same time but I will get better after my first mistake I guess. Didn't really expect any congrat, just wanted to thank everybody that puts infos into this, thanks it's awesome.

Tomorrow I'll start shopping!


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## oldpunk78

Hey peoples. 

It's been a while since I've updated anything in the parts section and have been meaning to add and update some things.

If anyone has some suggestions, that would be great. Trying not to let this get too out of date.


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## AlanLe

Buy gla systems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Buy gla systems.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yep. That's always a good option. Not really helping in updating the parts though.


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## FlyingHellFish

Whoa, I didn't recognize your avatar Josh, I was looking for the skull and couldn't find it. 
I'm writing up something similar, sort of like a 2014 parts list.

There is always a preference for certain needle valves but the one thing everyone would agree on is the mouse. Retail wise, the cost is very low and with a bit of googling, you can get them dirt cheap. 

Clippard Mouse + Manifold

Needle valve:

SMC AS Clones 1/8 or 10/32
I tried out the SMC clone AS series and it was awful. Have you guys use a 10/32 AS series with low pressure? I *think that might be a good option since they are 15 bucks.

Asian Needle Valve (Generic) 
Before the pitch forks and flames come out, hear me out. I think those generic ones might work if they have 1/8 NPT. I seen some great vid on them, no where as good as the Parker HR but a variable option. 


New Victors:
Anyone seen these? I think they are being introduce as a lower end regulator, a step lower than the SS SGT
























And the deals are still out there, there is always a good deal, it's the nature of the industry. The problem lies in the quantity, deals like this is can be found but it's rare.


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## oldpunk78

Thanks. I always forget about stuff. I've mean meaning to remember the new Clippard manifold for months now. Lol

If you guys can write stuff out in a way that I can just copy and paste, it would be a huge help as I'm never actually on a real computer anymore and busting out long ass posts with lots of technical stuff sucks.


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## AlanLe

How about a gold system? 











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> How about a gold system?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Do you have access to a buffing wheel? Hahaha


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## AlanLe

Nope all hand made in the U.S.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Nope all hand made in the U.S.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Forgive me for not seeing the answer you intended but I can't tell if you meant you assembled and polished the whole thing by hand in the USA or all the parts are from the USA in which case I believe the solenoid and gauges are from Germany.


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## AlanLe

Lol mr professional 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FlyingHellFish

@AlanLe 
Nicely done, Alan! How you get brass to be so shinny? That is like a mirror finish, can you do the same for chrome? 
And is that an Parker IR I see in the back?  

@Josh,

Sure, I'm doing an inforgraph on the 4 Co2 options I have. 























Hopefully a 5th *retail option* but if not, I already toss in Bettatail and your name for the running.


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## AlanLe

You can buff them with brasso! 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## FlyingHellFish

AlanLe said:


> You can buff them with brasso!
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That what I use, the smell is so horrible tho. Its like gym socks.


///

Here some other options for needle valves, these are clones of the S,M,L by Swagelok. Performance wise, the graph is identical, problem lies in logistic. The valve will cost the same as a retail Swagelok one. 

Check out the metal colour handle, pretty slick no? 
























*** I have to look over what I wrote, I forgot which was the better option. There are least 2 more companies with Swagelok clones, not to mention the custom valves you can get from overseas. There is zillions of companies in Asia willing to produce valves for you, only problem is the min order of 100.


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## AlanLe

Flyingfish those needle valves look good but im not sure if they perform as good.

Here a needle valve you dont normally see.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## oldpunk78

Hahaha - just for the heck of it I just googled 2 stage co2 regulator. Guess what pops up 1st on google? When I wrote the original article, I never would have thought it would help so many. 

Still working towards an update. I just haven't had any time at the computer.


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## AlanLe

these hoke valves we bought last time are really really good and very easy to adjust. I'm currently running on my 120p.


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## FlyingHellFish

Oooh them hokes looking good, I like I like.


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## OG_Plantmore

Where did all the pics go?


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## Darkblade48

OG_Plantmore said:


> Where did all the pics go?


The image hosting site has removed them (probably due to inactivity).


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## flight50

OG_Plantmore said:


> Where did all the pics go?


He gave part numbers so just look those up. Most of what was posted isn't necessary. They were mostly fittings and adapters that covered pretty much any combination of fittings. 

Since reviewing this thread, I decided to make one myself. Educating myself for a week really gave me the confidence to make it happen for I was clueless in what it took to build one. Its really cheap doing it yourself versus buying a high end setup from an aquarium company. Ebay, amazon, other auction sites, sale threads, surplus warehouses, welding shops/websites, etc...deals are out there. You just might not find them all in one day. It could take several days, weeks or months to get that one crucial part you were looking for. I recommend going after your regulator first and then match the finish of that for a nice looking setup.


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## Mathman

AlanLe said:


> these hoke valves we bought last time are really really good and very easy to adjust. I'm currently running on my 120p.



Love the golden look of your rig buddy!


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## zackariah

H all i am looking to do my first build will this reg body work? 
AIRGAS DUAL STAGE GAS REGULATOR Y12-244F250 BRASS NICKEL 0-250 PSI


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## oldpunk78

It will but you want one that has a lower psi rating. I don't like using them if they have a low pressure gauge that reads over 200 psi.


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## zackariah

so can i just put a low pressure gauge that has lower reading on it?


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## oldpunk78

No. It doesn't work like that. The regulator needs to produce less psi. The gauge just reads it.


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## zackariah

Crap!!! here I thought I got a smoking deal. So If I am thinking correctly it will still work but it will be tougher to get a precise working pressure. or am I way off?


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## FlyingHellFish

The needle just moves a little bit is what he saying. It's a good regulator, I have that model - Y12 series. I took a look online, those prices are ridiculous for a used regulator. Like... all the prices are so high now. 

Aim for under 50 if it's still shinny.


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## Aquaticz

so you need a reg that is rated at 200 psi
& yes it should be dual gauge
material - ppl say brass or stainless is best
HTH


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## oldpunk78

Aquaticz said:


> so you need a reg that is rated at 200 psi
> & yes it should be dual gauge
> material - ppl say brass or stainless is best
> HTH


A lot of folks seem to have a hard time with this. In a nut shell, the regulator will put out 1/2 of what the low pressure gauge goes up too. Ie; a 200 psi regulator will have a 400 psi low pressure gauge. A regulator that does roughly 100 psi will most likely have a 200 psi low pressure gauge. 

We don't want to go above that 200 psi gauge. (Or a regulator thats rated over 125psi)


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## quiquik

It just so happens that I picked up Y12 series for under 50.00 and if I understand the low pressure gauge goes to 400 so the working pressure is 200psi. My question, is this reg usless for our intended use or should I move forward and build a post body for it.


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## FlyingHellFish

quiquik said:


> It just so happens that I picked up Y12 series for under 50.00 and if I understand the low pressure gauge goes to 400 so the working pressure is 200psi. My question, is this reg usless for our intended use or should I move forward and build a post body for it.


Picture of the reg!

If the gauge is 400, you can set the working pressure from 0 - 200 psi. Basically, your regulator can be set higher than ones with numbers under 400. 

Like mine. 

"Dammnit FHF, speak English!" 
You got a truck that able to pull 200lbs of Co2, but you only need to haul 10, 20, 50lbs at the most. My truck can only pull 100lb, but I just have a 10lb load.


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## quiquik

Never posted a pic sure would like to know how. Can you help?


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## BigXor

Is this regulator OK to use?

MILLER-SMITH 121-2009

I have a new CGA320 tank fitting and a Fabco 55-18 needle valve.


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## Jaxfisher

*Foreign solenoid valve w/ night time shut-off?*

Does anyone know anything about these? The night time shut-off is appealing. 

I'm trying to put together my set-up (although it's been extremely painful!!). I purchased a 20 lb. tank, a Victor SR5B-320 and a Fabco needle valve. Can you recommend a good solenoid for my reg & needle valve? Will I need anything (fittings, nuts, etc) to put these pieces & parts together?

Thanks.


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## Kindafishy

BigXor said:


> Is this regulator OK to use?
> 
> MILLER-SMITH 121-2009
> 
> I have a new CGA320 tank fitting and a Fabco 55-18 needle valve.


I know someone more knowledgeable than me will speak up, but the low pressure side of that regulator is pretty low. The pressure to run CO2 diffusers is often quoted at 35 psi and that only goes to 30.


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## BigXor

Kindafishy said:


> I know someone more knowledgeable than me will speak up, but the low pressure side of that regulator is pretty low. The pressure to run CO2 diffusers is often quoted at 35 psi and that only goes to 30.



Thanks, I was unsure about that. I ordered MILLER-SMITH 213-4102, Delivery pressure is 0-150 psi. My inline diffuser is 36psi min pressure. 

Plus this reg has the correct CGA320 tank fitting and and stainless steel diaphragm. Outlet connection is 1/8" brass tube fitting.


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## quiquik

FlyingHellFish said:


> Picture of the reg!
> 
> If the gauge is 400, you can set the working pressure from 0 - 200 psi. Basically, your regulator can be set higher than ones with numbers under 400.
> 
> Like mine.
> 
> "Dammnit FHF, speak English!"
> You got a truck that able to pull 200lbs of Co2, but you only need to haul 10, 20, 50lbs at the most. My truck can only pull 100lb, but I just have a 10lb load.










Figured out how to post pic.


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## zackariah

That's funny I just got the same one.


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## adam66

parker ir6001wk4pxxfsiiiib is this good to go?(comes with gauges)


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## quiquik

zackariah said:


> That's funny I just got the same one.


FleaBay ?


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## Kindafishy

adam66 said:


> parker ir6001wk4pxxfsiiiib is this good to go?(comes with gauges)


It looks like that one would give you the same limitations as the one Bigxor asked about above. It's max output is 30 psi.


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## adam66

ill keep hunting


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## zackariah

Quiquik yes I did


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## quiquik

Thought so. Small world. Are you going to build a post body for it?


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## FlyingHellFish

quiquik said:


> View attachment 479913
> 
> Figured out how to post pic.


Nice! We have the same AirGas Y12 model, and I guess Zack too?


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## zackariah

Already in the works I'm trying our some cost efficient parts. Then I'll compare it against my rig with more expensive stuff. So far the whole setup will be well under $150. Hoping it all works well.


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## quiquik

Sweet I'll stay tuned!


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## zackariah

Got it done here is the final product 








Needle valve Is a bit touchy but other than that I'm happy with it. Especially since I did not have to spend $250+


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## quiquik

Hey zackariah the valve on the main body of the reg... lower left, can that be taken off and plugged? and have you tested the setup yet?


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## zackariah

^ it is up and running. And working great. As far as the valve on the lower left I'm sure it can but I don't see a reason to remove it. It seems to be another way to adjust the pressure. 

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk


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## lemonyx

I know it's been mentioned. but I have not been able to find a SS CGA-320 or a chrome plated one, can anyone steer me in the direction

thanks


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## oldpunk78

Zorotools and e&s technologies have the ss nut and nipple for fair prices. You can order the chrome set from jandrwelndingsupply.com. Victor has a nice chrome set you can find but you need to search the part number and I do t remember it anymore. Sometimes people here on the forum will have extra. You could try a wtb thread.


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## lemonyx

Thanks oldpunk78 for the info, really helps. I have a nice ss Harris but I have brass all over and the saltwater is corroding it

Are these both on ebay?


thx


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## oldpunk78

No. They're individual websites.


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## schooldazed

lemonyx said:


> I know it's been mentioned. but I have not been able to find a SS CGA-320 or a chrome plated one, can anyone steer me in the direction
> 
> thanks


hoping links are ok - try http://www.evergreenmidwest.com/Nipples-Threaded-Inlet-Chrome-Plated/ . got a chrome plated with filter for 11 bucks and the nut for four plus free shipping. they also have a large stainless offering on another page. in case the link is lost search Evergreen Midwest Co.


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## sgtsquiggs

Any chance on this post being rewritten? All of the images are missing.


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## APynckel

imgur is a great photo host if you used it instead of photobucket.


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## crice8

I concur. It would be great if someone with experience could provide new pics.


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## Stacy1

Took a couple of days but I finally made it through all 51 pages of this thread. I agree that it would be nice to have the pics back


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## oldpunk78

There was a problem with that particular photobucket account. I ain't doing that again. It took like whole Saturday lol.


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## Stacy1

You did a great job of breaking things down to where someone like me who has never messed around with regulators could understand how to assemble one. Thanks for taking the time to do it for us noobs


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## alphabeta

Guys, any chance somebody has the fist page saved with all the pictures, please! 
Bad that the ...bucket guys decided to shut down the show. thanks in advance.


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## Mathman

alphabeta said:


> Guys, any chance somebody has the fist page saved with all the pictures, please!
> 
> Bad that the ...bucket guys decided to shut down the show. thanks in advance.




What do you need help with?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## alphabeta

nothing in particular, just wanted to have the pictures with the details, how things are connected, which part where etc. it was a very nice write-up.


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## jac.fwguy

*Tubing Connection Question*

Hello, 
Long time lurker...first time question. For connecting CO2 tubing to a 1/4" tube connection on a metering valve. I see that some attach the tubing straight into the 1/4" tube connection off the metering valve. Could someone from experience tell me:
1. Do you install a tube sleeve inside the tubing to keep it from crushing & creating leaks or is CO2 tubing rigid enough to hold?
2. Do you install the tubing ferrules over the 1/4 tubing?
3. How does your setup stand when you remove the tubing and reattach? Leaking issues?
4. How does this stand up to push to connect or barb options?
Thanks so much for any advise you have from experience!!


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## E.TNBuckeye

I don't want to hijack this theard that OldPunk put so much work into, but I need immediate help. If this is the wrong place to put this just says so and I'll moved it to the suggested spot.

I bought a Harris Specialty Gas GP702-125-346-A regulator for about $30. I really didn't even know what I was buying at the time (never done co2), but since it appeared to be in great shape for cheap I just grabbed from a government surplus situation. After buying it I saw the "non-corrosive gases only" sticker. Have I blown the money and need to start over again?

From what I've learned now about this model is it is chrome-plated brass with a stainless steel diaphragm. It has a needle valve.
https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=893009&d=1581071953

If that won't work, I have a deal to get a VWR Scientific regulator w/needle valve and 20# bottle for $130.

Thanks in advance.


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## Botia dude

E.TNBuckeye said:


> I don't want to hijack this theard that OldPunk put so much work into, but I need immediate help. If this is the wrong place to put this just says so and I'll moved it to the suggested spot.
> 
> I bought a Harris Specialty Gas GP702-125-346-A regulator for about $30. I really didn't even know what I was buying at the time (never done co2), but since it appeared to be in great shape for cheap I just grabbed from a government surplus situation. After buying it I saw the "non-corrosive gases only" sticker. Have I blown the money and need to start over again?
> 
> From what I've learned now about this model is it is chrome-plated brass with a stainless steel diaphragm. It has a needle valve.
> https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=893009&d=1581071953
> 
> If that won't work, I have a deal to get a VWR Scientific regulator w/needle valve and 20# bottle for $130.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/20-diy/1283377-assembling-co2-regulator-beginners.html


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## Bettatail

where is oldpunk, I miss him.
he wrote this thread because the competition at the time to claim who is best in this DIY field. well, I started the metering valve selection thread and he beat me on the build thread(actually a couple days before mine was ready to publish), then I had to discard my how to build guiding thread- there was no point making a similar thread if oldpunk's was good enough to cover the topic, at the time.



E.TNBuckeye said:


> I don't want to hijack this theard that OldPunk put so much work into, but I need immediate help. If this is the wrong place to put this just says so and I'll moved it to the suggested spot.
> 
> I bought a Harris Specialty Gas GP702-125-346-A regulator for about $30. I really didn't even know what I was buying at the time (never done co2), but since it appeared to be in great shape for cheap I just grabbed from a government surplus situation. After buying it I saw the "non-corrosive gases only" sticker. Have I blown the money and need to start over again?
> 
> From what I've learned now about this model is it is chrome-plated brass with a stainless steel diaphragm. It has a needle valve.
> https://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=893009&d=1581071953
> 
> If that won't work, I have a deal to get a VWR Scientific regulator w/needle valve and 20# bottle for $130.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


no problem with co2, co2 is pseudo inert gas.

[STRIKE]this is a good regulator, but the output pressure is low, you can only use it with a reactor. it may work with a regular diffuser but a atomizer type will not.[/STRIKE]
(my bad, I mistook the part number)
the outlet valve on this regulator can not handle the precision(flow rate) for our co2 application, need a precision flow control metering valve.

I just dig a pic from my photobucket, same regulator


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## AlanLe

Josh is in my Facebook Planted Tank group. I don’t think he’s building anymore. I miss that HellFlyingFish guy from Canada. 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## aquariumclub

Thank you for this info


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## DBAecr

any CO2 info to learn from!!! because lots of high tech equipment now


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## AlanLe

DBAecr said:


> any CO2 info to learn from!!! because lots of high tech equipment now



I have a diy on reefcentral 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


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## DBAecr

AlanLe said:


> I have a diy on reefcentral
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Hi Alan. 
thanks for reply. how do I search in RC? your RC same username?


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## oldpunk78

Bettatail said:


> where is oldpunk, I miss him.
> he wrote this thread because the competition at the time to claim who is best in this DIY field. well, I started the metering valve selection thread and he beat me on the build thread(actually a couple days before mine was ready to publish), then I had to discard my how to build guiding thread- there was no point making a similar thread if oldpunk's was good enough to cover the topic, at the time.


I had issues with myself. I didn’t want this thread to be stickied anymore. I didn’t want to constantly answer the same questions over and over again. I couldn’t get away from it no matter what I did. I also didn’t like the way the forum was being run and I just left it all behind. I guess that was years ago now... 

My youngest is now old enough to leave my tanks alone. I’ve been really wanting to get one going again. Perhaps you’ll see more of me soon.


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## Bettatail

happy to see you again, and welcome back. It is ok to take a long break, but we always come back because planted tank fish keeping is life long hobby. well, build some co2 systems too, that is another hobby,


----------



## AlanLe

oldpunk78 said:


> I had issues with myself. I didn’t want this thread to be stickied anymore. I didn’t want to constantly answer the same questions over and over again. I couldn’t get away from it no matter what I did. I also didn’t like the way the forum was being run and I just left it all behind. I guess that was years ago now...
> 
> My youngest is now old enough to leave my tanks alone. I’ve been really wanting to get one going again. Perhaps you’ll see more of me soon.


Set up a saltwater tank. 

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk


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## oldpunk78

AlanLe said:


> Set up a saltwater tank.
> 
> Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk


I’ve been threatening for years now. The initial cost is more than I can swing.


----------

