# [DONE] Cladophora Infestation [04/13/2013] Post#35



## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

*Starting Date: 11/18/2012*

Hey got a green hair algae on my dwarf baby tears and its spreading to neighboring plants. this is the second algae infestation that I am dealing with in this tank. The first was grey algae which was started due to my laziness which caused a lot of fish food being dumped in the tank and me thinking I just don't need to feed them for a few weeks. :flick: I got rid of the algae by closing the lights for 3 days but that also killed most of my plants.

To get rid of the algae this time I have reduced the light to 2xT5-HO for 3 hours a day. I have mechanically reduced the algae as much as possible without pulling the roots of the plants for most of the plants (really difficult for dwarf baby tears on sand substrate). And also doubled the dosage of the Seachem excel. I added 4 True SAE, 2 Chinese SAE (Not sure), 2 corydoras and a twig catfish. Anyway today I started using Hobby Algen-killer, which is a liquid algaecide (link to their website is here: http://www.dohse-aquaristik.de/en/p/51500/AlgenKiller-). It says to dose [STRIKE]2ml per 100liters per week[/STRIKE] 2ml per 10liters for heavy algae and to repeat if algae is "stubborn" so if it works I'll let you guys know. I have tried Tetra Algumin which did not work on the grey algae or the green hair algae.

If the algaecide shows no progress I am thinking of using Hobby Duplarit K:"Natural tropical laterite in pellet form for subsequent use in existing aquariums. Iron-active soil additive for all aquarium plants. Enhances growth and appearance and prevents deficiency symptoms" and Hobby Sanoplant: "CO2 fertilizer tablets for strong and healthy plant growth. Ideal and inexpensive carbon dioxide fertilization. Basic fertilization with all necessary nutrients", to help kill the algae. 
*
UPDATE1 [11/19/2012]:* After realizing that I misread the instruction for the algae killer, which I have corrected above to the correct dosage for heavy algae which I will not be using as a noticeable reduction in algae has been noticed, so I will be using the normal dosage conditions of 1ml per 10 liters. 

*Update2 [11/24/2012]:* The first day I got the SAE they were awesome half of the algae was gone but after that they don't seem to be eating the hair algae. Some are becoming lazy while some are looking for food at the sand area but are not going anywhere near the hair algae. (Discussing Problem here.)

*Update3 [11/28/2012]:* 1 True SAE is died probably from algaecide and another missing and its been a week since algaecide has been added and no reduction noticed. 3 days ago I added nutrients and CO2 fertilizer to boost plant growth and ended up giving the hair algae a boost. :sad
I removed a driftwood that had hair algae growing on it and placed it inside a drawer. I placed more plants in the tank. 

*Update4 [12/05/2012]:* 2 weeks have passed and I gave up on the algaecide after 10 days and used neutralizer to remove the copper so I can add 6 Fire Red Shrimp. I currently using Seachem Phosoguard and am going to do a weekly 30% water change and hope for the best.

Tank originally:http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/p...pe=f&id=12289&title=First_One_15-11-2012b.jpg

Tank Currently:http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/p...92&title=First_One_Alteration_28-11-2012c.jpg

*Update5 [12/25/2012]:* I have removed the algae mechanically once again and did a 30-40% water change two-three times since the last update. I have reduced the weekly fertilization to half and noticed the algae has a slower growth. I've used the Algencide once again but then I went and used "Ocean Free Pure liquid" which according to the box might remove the effect of the algencide. Place a pic of what "Pure Liquid" does.

*Update6 [12/26/2012]:* Removed some algae mechanically and did a 10% water change and poured another batch of algaecide.

*---Specs---* (A copy of a reply I wrote)
My tank is bow front tank about 120 liters.
-Odyssea light fixture with a built in timer has four 39W T5HO lights 3 at 6500K and one at 8000K. Ones all four at nine and turns of at seven.
-Tetra EX700 Canister Filter with the correct dosage of Seachem phosoguard in it.
-Tetra 100 (for 100 liters) air pump opened to half capacity.
-Tetra Co2 Optimat, uses a thin membrane to diffuse the Co2 into the water.
-Tetra Complete Substrate with sand gravel over it.

When I was starting I didn't have the Odyssea light fixture, but I had the aquarium built in hood which has 2 25W T8 "Daylight" lamps. And I added Tetra "Initial Sticks" plant supplement tabs. Most of the Tetra supplements I bought had no english instructions so I guessed the dosage from what the instruction said instead of translating the instructions to english, but the algae didn't appear until I found some dwarf baby tears and want to to provide enough plant supplement that accidentally dropped too many Tetra plant supplements tried to push them into the substrate but some resurfaced out of the substrate and thats when the algae first appeared. A few weeks ago I checked the substrate but the tabs dissolved.

As you can see I used only Tetra at the beginning until I noticed lack alot of info on their products and sites compared to Seachem.

--Current dosage--
I currently dose half a cap of Seachem Excel and one or none of the tetra Co2, that's after checking with a co2 indicator. I stopped using Seachem Flourish, only a few drops over unaffected plants. Which might be the reason why the algae has barely grown in the past week.

I placed once (2-3 weeks ago) 2 Dulparit K (placed 1cm under substrate) which is meant to enhance plant roots. The areas where I placed it had a strong algae growth.

Use 1 sanoplant on infected area. Sanoplant, 1 tab for each 50 liter, it provides fertilizing with Co2, general fertilizer containing all nutrient salts and fertilizing with trace elements and iron.

I will not use "pure liquid" until 2 weeks from as a second chance for the algenkiller. 

*Update7 [01/05/2013]:* There has been no growth found on the algae. Since the last update no Seachem flourish but Co2 tabs with trace elements, indicated dosage of seachem excel and half the dosage of tetra Co2. what suprised me is that I found that some of my fire red shrimp alive. After their complete disappearance and someone informing me that guppies eat shrimp and poured algaecide on the 25th of December (Update 5).

Let me know what you think.
Here are the Pics.


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## CaquetaRiver (Nov 4, 2012)

*Algae*

Hey Sub-80. Do you have Co2 in your tank? I would not recommend using any algae killers. Usually algae flourish when the conditions are not optimum for plant growth. Fish may help you, especially SAE, which is pretty good, but if the tank have an excess of nutrients that plants cannot take, then you will get algae.


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## ThatGuyWithTheFish (Apr 29, 2012)

Looks more like clado... how branchy is it? Does it smell awful?


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

ThatGuyWithTheFish said:


> Looks more like clado... how branchy is it? Does it smell awful?


No there is no bad smell. At first I mistook it for staghorn algae but after a bit more research I believe it Green hair algae, it sure feels like wet hair when you touch it.



CaquetaRiver said:


> Hey Sub-80. Do you have Co2 in your tank? I would not recommend using any algae killers. Usually algae flourish when the conditions are not optimum for plant growth. Fish may help you, especially SAE, which is pretty good, but if the tank have an excess of nutrients that plants cannot take, then you will get algae.


I have a Tetra CO2 package which I stopped using after buying the Seachem Excel. I also have Hobby Sanoplant which are tablets placed under plants, it releases Co2 fertilizer. I am planning on using it after the algae disappears. For the algae killer it states that it will not harm the plants and fish as long as as the dosage is correct. I get that algae is due to excess light or nutrients but to give the baby tears covered a chance I need most of the algae to die, also algae is showing in filter tubing.


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## Edub (Mar 23, 2011)

that green stringy algae is the bane of my existance. the only thing I have seen work in my tanks is be really good about keeping my DIY co2 pumping and dosing glut/excel. right now my light is too high (working on a way to elevate it) so I fight a constant battle.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

Had a talk with a staff of Hobby Algen-Killer and they informed me that Algen Killer is meant to reduce and protect from algae, he recommended that I do 30% water change and to add fast growing plants, which is the most effective method to remove algae. I do have fast growing plants at the back which is a reason why I don't have algae in the back.


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## james1542 (Sep 8, 2011)

sub-80 said:


> No there is no bad smell. At first I mistook it for staghorn algae but after a bit more research I believe it Green hair algae, it sure feels like wet hair when you touch it.
> QUOTE]
> 
> The only way to know if it's hair algae is to fashion a mustache from it then go out in public wearing said mustache.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

james1542 said:


> sub-80 said:
> 
> 
> > No there is no bad smell. At first I mistook it for staghorn algae but after a bit more research I believe it Green hair algae, it sure feels like wet hair when you touch it.
> ...


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## LyzzaRyzz (Nov 6, 2012)

james1542 said:


> The only way to know if it's hair algae is to fashion a mustache from it then go out in public wearing said mustache.


Ha! Caugh me off guard there!


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

ThatGuyWithTheFish said:


> Looks more like clado... how branchy is it? Does it smell awful?


You might be right about it being Cladophra. The tank doesn't smell to well and it really stuck on the plants. If it is clado how can I get rid of it, with out using the bleach treatment.


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## stardm (Dec 5, 2012)

*first planted tank, first tank nightmare!!!*

Is this similar to what you are dealing with?
I have had marine tanks and fresh water for many years but never had algae like this before. Usually just on the glass, scrape it off and have a nice day.
I dont want to have this stuff floating around if i remove it improperly.
I opened the lid on my tank and it tried to pull me into the water!
What is the best way to get rid of this?


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

stardm said:


> Is this similar to what you are dealing with?
> I have had marine tanks and fresh water for many years but never had algae like this before. Usually just on the glass, scrape it off and have a nice day.
> I dont want to have this stuff floating around if i remove it improperly.
> I opened the lid on my tank and it tried to pull me into the water!
> What is the best way to get rid of this?


I haven't solved my problem yet. I really can't see the algae that well in your 
pic. But it does look similar to it. Every website and every person I spoke with told me this remove most of it mechanically and do a 30% water change, weekly. There is a source for the algae either excess fertilizer or hidden dead fish. I know reducing light for to 3 hours a day did nothing. I was advised by the current Hobby customer service is to place fast growing plants at the area of the algae. 

If you have a water test that can give accurate values, you could probably identify the source of the algae and dose to correct the ratio of nutrient. I am trying to get the a test kit to test the aquarium waters, going to get Seneye Reef.


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## stardm (Dec 5, 2012)

sub-80 said:


> I haven't solved my problem yet. I really can't see the algae that well in your
> pic. But it does look similar to it. Every website and every person I spoke with told me this remove most of it mechanically and do a 30% water change, weekly. There is a source for the algae either excess fertilizer or hidden dead fish. I know reducing light for to 3 hours a day did nothing. I was advised by the current Hobby customer service is to place fast growing plants at the area of the algae.
> 
> If you have a water test that can give accurate values, you could probably identify the source of the algae and dose to correct the ratio of nutrient. I am trying to get the a test kit to test the aquarium waters, going to get Seneye Reef.


My algae is attached to the top of the tank and is dangling down from the glass. You can see it better if you click on the photo i think.


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## DarkCobra (Jun 22, 2004)

AlgenKiller contains copper sulfate and monolinuron.

Copper sulfate is not a very effective algaecide, at least until you get into such high doses that other flora/fauna are at risk.

Monolinuron is an herbicide in the phenylurea family. It works by inhibiting photosynthesis, in some plants more strongly than others. In short, it's a chemical blackout. Once bound to the plant, its effects can last for weeks, even if the chemical is removed through water changes. Better off avoided in any planted tank.

Your algae looks more like hair algae to me, although I'm not 100% sure. If it's hair, growth can be stopped or slowed with reduced light, reduced phosphate (if there's a *huge* excess), and overall good conditions. Existing algae can be removed mechanically, and/or killed in-place with H2O2 or Excel spot treatments.

If it's Cladophora, then it becomes far more difficult. No improvement in tank conditions will stop or slow it, as it thrives in what would be considered a perfect planted tank. It's also resistant to H2O2 and Excel to the point where spot treatments are barely effective, and can survive long blackouts. Mechanical removal still works, but unlike hair algae, it can't be yanked out from a plant 100% intact; and may spread fragments that can pop up elsewhere.

In this case, the only acceptable option I've found is treating the algae outside the tank. Remove all affected plants to a bucket with water. Disturb the algae as little as possible to avoid spreading fragments. If this means digging up a chunk of substrate, do it.

Now you can treat with a stronger dose of chemical in the bucket. Though given clado's resistance, it can still be hard to dose with enough H2O, Excel, bleach, etc. to ensure killing it without significantly damaging the plant. So I use AlgaeFix instead. It's a very effective algae killer. The active ingredient changes the surface tension of water, affecting water and gas exchange across fine structures (like algae) until the cells rupture. Three days in the bucket with the normal dose works great on algae, including clado, with no effect on plants that I've noticed. Rinse well and return to the tank. The algae may not initially appear dead, but it will dissolve over a few days.

You may be tempted to use AlgaeFix directly in your tank, and some do. But be aware it's a gamble. It's particularly lethal to invertebrates. And can sometimes kill fish too. Fish gills are *also* fine structures, directly involved in water and gas exchange; and changing the surface tension of water certainly affects them! Many times there will be no bad effects, but other times you may lose multiple fish, with symptoms of severe respiratory distress. Should you try this, if you see even the slightest hint of these symptoms, remove the chemical through multiple large water changes *immediately*. I've also done some experiments to satisfy my own curiosity that suggest fish can adapt better if the chemical is introduced gradually, divided in 1/4 doses over 24 hours, instead of dosed all at once. Though I guarantee nothing, and generally recommend AlgaeFix for use outside the tank only.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

stardm said:


> My algae is attached to the top of the tank and is dangling down from the glass. You can see it better if you click on the photo i think.


Then I suggest doing a precise mechanical removal as if you let it go it'll really get worse as you can see in my pic the algae are appearing from the roots of the plant. So get to it make sure you have removed every bit you can then do a water change.



DarkCobra said:


> AlgenKiller contains copper sulfate and monolinuron.
> 
> Copper sulfate is not a very effective algaecide, at least until you get into such high doses that other flora/fauna are at risk.
> 
> ...


I dosed the algenkiller a few minutes ago making it twice in one week. But now reading what you wrote makes sense that the fast growing plants in my tank, plants that would take a week to reach the top of my tank have barely grown.

I have not tried the excel spot treatment but i have dosed twice, thrice or quadruple the usual dosage (at times of frustration). I have reduced the light and have not noticed any changes and am using Seachem Phosoguard. To test my waters and to fix the nutrient ratio I've ordered Seachem Nitrogen, Potassium, Phosphate and Iron, but have to wait a few weeks after Christmas.

If it is Clado and I am to remove all plants and substrate that means I'll have to remove half of the substrate. :icon_eek:

Algenfix sounds great, I'll try to get it.


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## karce87 (Dec 6, 2012)

If it is Clado, you might as well tear down te tank and start again. At least that is what I've done after getting tired of removing them manually.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

Considering it. 
But first am going to purchase two products to use from EQUO:Bio-Alganex is a biological anti-algae containing specifically chosen bacteria which helps in reducing unwanted algae, harmless to flora and fauna. Then theres Algae Stop, which is a last resort, where you use a spot dosage treatment on the algae.


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## angelsword (May 16, 2009)

You're dumping a ton of different chemicals in your tank. I read through the thread but, honestly I've lost count of how many different products you've added, either to fix the algae or to counteract the effects of the other products.

I'm constantly dealing with outbreaks of hair algae in one tank or the other so I don't have the answer. I remove it and try to keep it under control as much as possible. I'd suggest that you get some advice from more knowledgeable tpt members about fixing what's causing the algae and try to avoid chemicals whenever possible.


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## n00dl3 (Jan 26, 2008)

angelsword said:


> You're dumping a ton of different chemicals in your tank. I read through the thread but, honestly I've lost count of how many different products you've added, either to fix the algae or to counteract the effects of the other products.
> 
> I'm constantly dealing with outbreaks of hair algae in one tank or the other so I don't have the answer. I remove it and try to keep it under control as much as possible. I'd suggest that you get some advice from more knowledgeable tpt members about fixing what's causing the algae and try to avoid chemicals whenever possible.


1+ ... if you're having reoccurring algae problem. I would recommend identifying the root cause of the problem first before you resort to chemical warfare. Sounds like you might have too much light, low nitrate, and low flow in your tank. What is your tank spec?


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

To tell the truth I lost count too.

My tank is bow front tank about 120 liters. 
-Odyssea light fixture with a built in timer has four 39W T5HO lights 3 at 6500K and one at 8000K. Ones all four at nine and turns of at seven.
-Tetra EX700 Canister Filter with the correct dosage of Seachem phosoguard in it.
-Tetra 100 (for 100 liters) air pump opened to half capacity.
-Tetra Co2 Optimat, uses a thin membrane to diffuse the Co2 into the water.
-Tetra Complete Substrate with sand gravel over it.

When I was starting I didn't have the Odyssea light fixture, but I had the aquarium built in hood which has 2 25W T8 "Daylight" lamps. And I added Tetra "Initial Sticks" plant supplement tabs. Most of the Tetra supplements I bought had no english instructions so I guessed the dosage from what the instruction said instead of translating the instructions to english, but the algae didn't appear until I found some dwarf baby tears and want to to provide enough plant supplement that accidentally dropped too many Tetra plant supplements tried to push them into the substrate but some resurfaced out of the substrate and thats when the algae first appeared. A few weeks ago I checked the substrate but the tabs dissolved. 

As you can see I used only Tetra at the beginning until I noticed lack alot of info on their products and sites compared to Seachem. 

--Currently--
I currently dose half a cap of Seachem Excel and one or none of the tetra Co2, that's after checking with a co2 indicator. I stopped using Seachem Flourish, only a few drops over unaffected plants. Which might be the reason why the algae has barely grown in the past week.

I placed once (2-3 weeks ago) 2 Dulparit K (placed 1cm under substrate) which is meant to enhance plant roots. The areas where I placed it had a strong algae growth.

Use 1 sanoplant on infected area. Sanoplant, 1 tab for each 50 liter, it provides fertilizing with Co2, general fertilizer containing all nutrient salts and fertilizing with trace elements and iron.

I will not use "pure liquid" until 2 weeks from as a second chance for the algenkiller.


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## n00dl3 (Jan 26, 2008)

sub-80 said:


> To tell the truth I lost count too.
> 
> My tank is bow front tank about 120 liters.
> -Odyssea light fixture with a built in timer has four 39W T5HO lights 3 at 6500K and one at 8000K. Ones all four at nine and turns of at seven.
> ...


How deep is your tank? From the look it is either 18" or 24" tall. With your light fixture you're at medium to high light. You'll need constant co2 such as pressurized co2. Not sure how well Tetra Co2 Optimat would work. If you don't want to go with pressurized co2, I would recommend with just 2 bulbs which will get you low end of medium light. Also your photo period is way too long for that much light. I would cut it down to 8 hours or less. Also your flow is too low. I would increase to at least 10x.

I'm not familiar with your dosing so I can't help you there.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

Yeah, it 18" tall. will try that. :icon_wink


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## 82nd_Airborne (Mar 28, 2012)

I had a very bad hair algae outbreak and the only thing that fixed it was when I went to pressurized co2. My DIY co2 was too inconsistent and the hair algae and bga was just terrible. 2 weeks after pressurized co2 was added, the algae is almost gone and my tank is beautiful. Jump over to the lighting section and read up on PAR rating for your lights, as n00dl3 said, your dosing is probably too low for your lighting.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

82nd_Airborne said:


> I had a very bad hair algae outbreak and the only thing that fixed it was when I went to pressurized co2. My DIY co2 was too inconsistent and the hair algae and bga was just terrible. 2 weeks after pressurized co2 was added, the algae is almost gone and my tank is beautiful. Jump over to the lighting section and read up on PAR rating for your lights, as n00dl3 said, your dosing is probably too low for your lighting.


There's at least 1000 similar tales on various forums, DIY CO2 is one way to learn it the hard way, did this myself.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

82nd_Airborne said:


> I had a very bad hair algae outbreak and the only thing that fixed it was when I went to pressurized co2. My DIY co2 was too inconsistent and the hair algae and bga was just terrible. 2 weeks after pressurized co2 was added, the algae is almost gone and my tank is beautiful. Jump over to the lighting section and read up on PAR rating for your lights, as n00dl3 said, your dosing is probably too low for your lighting.


Yeah, I bought a Fluval Pressurized 88g CO2 kit will probably get it in two-three weeks. I hope it works.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

It has been a long time since I wrote in this thread.

First of all, What I have is *Cladophora* not hair algae.

This is my current situation.



















--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

_*The plan*_ is Hydrogen peroxide
1- remove the canister empty it and place it in a dark place.
2- use two buckets and a plastic wrap: one bucket (b1)with h2o2 and water the other (b2) just water. Remove plant place in bucket for half an hour the relocate into other bucket to rinse then place on plastic wrap. (Plants should be fine for few hours) or use a third bucket?
3- scrap the substrate that has clado and throw into the bin.
4-place air stone and airline into b1 and b2.
5-place dry fertilizer into the substrate.
6-return plants into tank
7- place sponge filter
8-after 3 days wash with boiling water.

This method shouldn't hurt the fish or shrimp.

In the tank I have 2 driftwoods, one with java moss on it. Should I leave the driftwood with java moss longer since it is completely covered with clado? Should I start with a new batch of b1 after every few plants or should one be enough?

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I installed the co2 system a week ago. Some guys told me that the plants look weak but have not informed of what the possible sources of the foreground plants not growing.

First am not sure what am doing wrong with the plants. The background plants seem to be fine and grow fast. I have wisteria, cabomba and another which I don't know its name. It is just the foreground plants that seem to grow at a snail pace.

I have 125 Liter (33 us gal) tank, which is 3/4 planted used to be all planted but removed the carpet plants that was infected. 3x 39W High Output T5 @6500k and 1x 39W High Output T5 @8000k, on from 10 am to 6pm. Co2 1bps from 9 am to 5pm (Drop checker purplish green).

For fertilizing, I use liquid fertilizers: Seachem Flourish, Easy-Life Ferro (Fe), Easy-Life Nitro (NO3) and Easy-Life Kalium-Pottasium (K). I used the "yet another nutrient calculator" (http://calc.petalphile.com/) for weekly dosage, which has a premixed category. That resulting dosage
Seachem Flourish: 2.5ml
Fe: 3ml
K:11ml
no3: 12ml

Can you indicate what am doing wrong??

I noticed that the clado grew faster with fertilizer.

Please tell me what is the imbalance that has caused my foreground plant to grow slowly.


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## BoxxerBoyDrew (Oct 16, 2005)

Well I too have gotten the "DAM CLADO"!!! I know where I got it from, but that doesn't matter, I still have it!

I am going to be watching this thread to see how your bucket system works!!! 

Does your clado stink?

Mine does!!! It almost smells like raw sewage when I have pulled it out and rubbed it between my fingers!!! The tank itself doesn't stink though!!! 

I HOPE I DON'T HAVE TO TARE DOWN MY WHOLE TANK!!! Either one of us for that matter!!!
BEST of LUCK to Ya!!!
Drew


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## DarkCobra (Jun 22, 2004)

The plan sounds good, but the trick is getting the right amount of H2O2 and time to kill the clado without significantly harming the plants. Remember it's quite resistant to H2O2. You might try a single-plant dip test, starting relatively low on concentration/time, then wait three days to see the result - it won't be visibly affected at first, and if killed, it will take at least that long to start decomposing. Increase the concentration/time if the previous test failed. Then once you know what works and what doesn't, you can treat everything with more confidence.

You might check out my "One-Two Punch" thread as well, which was posted after you started this thread. I've burned Marimo balls (a form of clado) subjected to direct flow with this treatment, but I don't guarantee it to be shrimp safe. Even if you don't use the treatment, there's some good info about H2O2 in there.

I believe it's possible to rescue your tank, but it will not be easy, nor will you likely manage to eliminate it all on the first attempt. If you persist and win, you will definitely have my greatest respect. 

Yes, clado grows faster with ferts. Consider it a plant in most respects, even though it's an algae. It's impossible to control it with nutrients without destroying plants too.

I don't see an obvious source of phosphorus in your dosing, which might be affecting your foreground plants. But with an algae infestation of this extent, it's _really_ hard to get issues like this figured out, as the algae can affect nutrient levels, block light, and parasitize and weaken plants. Better to get the algae beaten down first, especially since clado is not a sign of improper water parameters.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

BoxxerBoyDrew said:


> Does your clado stink?
> 
> Drew


Yes, when you rub it between your fingers it smells sour, but smelling it from the tank, at first I couldn't smell anything but after ignoring my tank for a month or two my tank became unbearable to stand by, half of the surface area had clado which was attached on my wisteria. I did some trimming and removed the clado.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

*Re: Cladophora (Not hair algae) Infestation [03/02/2013]*

First thing i did was place a bunch of cladophora in a bucket (17 liters, 4 us gal) with 1 mil of 6% H2O2 concentration and waited 30 min, no difference. I added an extra 1 mil and waited another 30 min but still no difference. Took a clump of clado 3cm in diameters and placed 1ml H2O2, it took 4 hours to wither to a quarter of its size. 

I followed the plan except I increased the dosage of h2o2 after 3 patches of plants and i did the mechanical removal in the diluted h2o2 bucket. And rinse the plants in the second bucket (water) then place on piece of plastic wrap.

I had a driftwood with java moss on it, but it was completely covered with clado, so i found no other way but to get rid of the moss and the clado. And I also had alot of java moss in my other tank so to recreate the java moss driftwood was easy. I replanted the cleaned plants but I threw some out that were cheaply sold or were heavily infected.

Things that I noticed is that clado sinks while plants float so you don't need to replace the bucket solution after each plant you just need to not make heavy water movements. Some plants are quite sensitive to H2O2 so test with a small patch to see if the plant melts. And it is easier to notice small strands of clado when the plants are dry.

Strange things I found while removing the plants, is that Wisteria was the reason why all my background plants were dying or barely ground, its roots frighteningly large. It had the background plants roots and some plants wrapped in its roots. The Java Moss was using the surround plants as support to spread and was killing any plants beneath it.

Here is the tank with only fish and substrate.









Here with plants back in.

















Recommendation:
If your tank is covered all over it best to tear down the tank and start all over.

If you have one plant that is infected, turn off your filter, take a small bag cloth or any sort of bag that allows water to escape but not small clado strands and gently place the bag over the infected plant to avoid the spread of clado and pull while making sure the mouth of the bag is closed. place the bag and plant in the premix solution mechanically remove the clado. Rinse the plant with water then place on a piece of plastic to dry for a few hours. Check plants for clado and replant.

and use dry fertilizer instead of liquid, seachem flourish was the most contributing in algae growth between all the other liquid fertilizer. 

I have yet to see if this has worked or not so I'll update in 2 weeks.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

*Re: Cladophora (Not hair algae) Infestation [03/21/2013]*

Has been more than 2 weeks since the operation and no caldophora is to be seen. I have not used liquid fertilizer and the co2 is set to 1bps. And the lights all 4 from 10 to 6. Also I feed my fish once every 4 days.

I will start today by introducing liquid fertilizer and seeing if the cladophora emerges.


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## DarkCobra (Jun 22, 2004)

Good treatment write-up, results look promising. Will keep fingers crossed for you, and watch for updates.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

DarkCobra said:


> Good treatment write-up, results look promising. Will keep fingers crossed for you, and watch for updates.


Thanks for the nice words. but I have to admit the first few weeks I was using way to many chemicals that I kept forgetting when and how much of what I was using. Hopefully in the next 2 weeks no cladophora will appear.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

Used Tetra Water Test and Got these values:
KH: 9 dH
GH: 24-25 dH
PH: 7.5
NO2-(Nitrite): Less than 0.3mg/l

Really hard water.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

It is done. It has been three weeks since I have been using liquid fertilizer and there has been no sign of clado. I haven't been feeding my fish only twice a week. I feel safe now to say that there is no clado and the operation is a success. 

The primary procedure thought of is placed in post 26 but as I was removing the clado I diverted from plan and did what has written in post 30. I really hope this helps out someone.

Here are some pics.


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## Bugaboo5 (Jan 18, 2010)

I'm so glad you got it worked out. You give me hope!


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## Bugaboo5 (Jan 18, 2010)

I'm sorry, I responded to your other post but it hasn't posted yet? I believe it said "moderating pending" after I posted and I guess it still has not been approved.

I did as you recommended and I took all the gravel out of my tank and I have it soaking in a Hydrogen peroxide + water solution. If I read correctly, you soaked your substrate in this solution for three days *and* boiled your substrate thereafter? Do you think pouring boiling water on my gravel in a bucket will suffice? I'm not sure how I feel about boiling gravel on my stovetop.  

Today was day 2 of soaking the gravel in the solution. Should I dump the solution out later today (Monday) and allow the gravel to soak in a new-fresh solution? I really want to get rid of this darn algae. 

Thank you for all your help!


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

Soak the gravel In diluted solution (6ml of h2o2 6% concentration in 3/4 of bucket filled with water) of h2o2 for a few hours, not days.  

Move the gravel in the bucket every 30 mins. Pour out the solution and add water and wash the gravel to remove any h2o2 residue. Do this at least 3 times. After spread the gravel on table to dry for a few hours (a day would be better). Place the gravel in the bucket and wash the gravel to remove debris and ensure no h2o2. After your done place one of your tetras as an experimental sacrifice if it survives your good to go, if not wash again. Hope you best of luck.

You don't need to boil gravel. It was either h2o2 wash or boil gravel.

For the boiling method place gravel in bucket and pour boiling water (be careful) and mix using a durable object. Dry gravel then wash gravel, test gravel.

*caution* h2o2 can cause skin irritation so wear gloves if you have sensitive skin.


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## Bugaboo5 (Jan 18, 2010)

Thank you so much for your response. Unfortunately, I didn't measure the Hydrogen peroxide I used but I poured liberally. I used a drug store brand of Hydrogen peroxide. The bottle doesn't specify that it is 6% concentration, but I hope it will suffice. I did shift through the gravel at least 7 times over the past couple days and I noticed loads of small bubbles in the solution mixture and on the gravel.

I poured out the solution an hour ago (at 4am!). I had the gravel in a huge bucket out in the yard, so hopefully none of the neighbors saw me out on the street dumping out water and shifting/scrubbing through the gravel with my hands. If the neighbors saw me, they probably think I'm some crazy insomniac with a pebble obsession -- shifting for gold on the street~!  I rinsed the gravel about 25 times with fresh water and laid the gravel out to dry. It's suppose to be a cold day so hopefully the gravel will dry out fine. I plan on soaking the gravel in boiling water once the gravel dries. I have to get rid of this algae for good this time. 

Ergh, I really would prefer to not sacrifice any creatures, especially not my beloved neon tetras. I actually spent three hours picking out the ramshorn and Malaysian trumpet snails before I even started the solution soak. I tried to save as many snails as I could, but I know I couldn't save them all. These poor creatures -- they suffer because their negligent owner somehow got their home infested with this nasty algae. 

Thank you for all your best wishes and for your gracious assistance. I hope I will be triumphant as you. You are super awesome! :angel:

Hopefully everything works out. A million thanks and have a wonderful day.


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

Hydrogen peroxide from drugstores are 3% concentration according to planted tank member residing in the US. 

What your doing is a bit of an overkill which makes really hope this works well for you. Please let me know of the results it holds.


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## Bugaboo5 (Jan 18, 2010)

Oh darn, our Hydrogen peroxide in America is only 3% concentration? Did the member specify what our alternative was? Are we suppose to just double the dosage? That makes me a little nervous now.

I know that I'm doing extra to eradicate the algae, but I literally hate it that much. I just bought a whole bunch of plants from multiple people that should start arriving later this week, so I want to make sure my investment towards a legitimate planted tank does not go down the drain because of a reoccurrence of this ridiculously impossible algae. 

I will definitely keep you posted! Thank you so much!


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

What you have done is more than enough, and the 6ml is an estimated guess. So the equivalent is 12ml of 3%. Good luck.


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## limz_777 (Jun 29, 2005)

good job on removing it from the tank to treat it , i have make a mistake before by trimming the hair (thread) algae in tank upon first sighting, i have notice tiny strands of it will float around and land other place


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

At my first attempt I tried to mechanically remove the algae in the tank which resulted in the spread of algae across my tank.


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## limz_777 (Jun 29, 2005)

same here , could have been a simple job if i just suck up the small section and throw away the affected plants asap


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## sub-80 (Oct 29, 2012)

:thumbsup:


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