# Tums in my tank



## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

If I'm not mistaken, Tums are calcium, so they're increasing your GH, not KH. You want to increase KH to increase pH and neutralize acids, that takes bicarb (baking soda). KH aka alkalinity aka buffering capacity works against acids. Don't raise KH fast or you'll likely kill some fish, adding Tums (GH) too fast can do the same thing and quickly create a hard water scenario suitable for african rift lake cichlids. 

That said, there are plenty of folks here that have been debunking the deadly acidic pH crash myth. Search around in the water parameters forum and you should find that info.

the best way to neutralize your acids is to remove them via water changes. Even if your source water is 0 dKH, you should have a ph of around 7 in a zero acidic environment. If your source water is offering no substantial amount of KH, consider adding an 1/8 tspn or so baking soda to your 5gl of change water to increase your buffering capacity. I would stop adding Tums immediately until you have a good measurement of both KH and GH using liquid test reagents.

FYI, CO2 isn't capable of bringing pH down very far, especially DIY in a 150gl, so don't make it the suspect for your 6.0pH, it's most likely 0dKH with acids working on it. I'm sure DIY isn't ever going to give you results in a tank that large, but I suppose any little bit can't hurt, so I don't see any reason for you not to run it, it won't crash your ph, it'll only drop it a few tenths of a degree at the most and stop there.

If you want real results from CO2 in 150gl, you're going to need a pressurized set up with an inline reactor, no doubt about it.


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## lauraleellbp (Feb 3, 2008)

Sounds like a great tank for a blackwater setup.  

You could add in some crushed coral or Seachem's Onyx Sand to help buffer your water longer than Tums will (Jaide, calcium carbonate WILL increase kH!), especially since you won't remove it with each water change. Crushed coral or oyster shells is probably the cheapest way to go, and I'd just mix it in with your substrate in a tank your size. Onyx sand would LOOK nicer, but won't be as cheap.

I wouldn't pay any attention whatsoever to the "false" pH reading you will get once dosing CO2- CO2-induced pH fluctuations seem to have no impact on fish.


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## jaidexl (Sep 18, 2006)

Ahh, the magic carbo word. Yes indeed it will, but I bet baking soda will get you to your target pH faster. Anyway, I think your best bet is to get some reliable KH and GH results, (not from a dip strip or a store employee), before you move any further. And wait for some response from the zero KH crowd, they definitely eased my nerves when I first came here, and I've had zero probs since then, following their advice.


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## FishFan (Jun 27, 2008)

I am very grateful for these knowledgeable posts, and I am following them. I just completed a 30 gl water change. I use a pump in a 35 gl bucket to move water that was aerated for 2 days. A heater equalizes the temperature. I syphoned the gravel and removed a white cloud of particles that most likely was calcium carbonate. I am shopping for the suggested test kit. According to three strip test kits GH reads 60-100, KH 0-40, NO2 3, and NO3 80. I may be seeing cycling since NO2 was zero for a long time.


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## customdrumfinishes (Apr 4, 2008)

adding anything to your water to adjust ph,kh,gh etc is not really solving the problem. 

do you already do weekly water changes or monthy water changes?

water changes will help for sure. i think water changes, some gravel cleans every month or 2 and not overfeeding is the key to any tank,. or i can say it works for me. i check the water parameters every month or so.


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