# DIY LED 29 gallon w/ dimable driver and ammeter



## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

I am doing a similar thread in this forum with a lot of the same equipment. Since you've ordered your equipment already I think I'll see how yours turns out before I buy my supplies in case I want to alter what I'm planning on now. 

Have you tried looking at http://www.heatsinkusa.com/ for a heat sink you can connect your driver and LEDs to? Originally I was going to buy one from them, but I was able to find heat sinks at www.rapidled.com where I will be ordering my equipment from. Keep us updated! I'll definitely be following your thread


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Yeah that's where i ordered my heatsink from. I was going to get it from rapidled but the one I wanted was out of stock so that's why i chose heatsinkusa.com


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

How do you plan on connecting the cable hanging kit to the aluminum? Are you going to drill 4 holes in the heat sink?


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

actually i have a friend that's a carpenter so she is going to make a box that i will connect the heat sink too and hang the wood. I'm not sure what would look cool though


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## daverock1337 (Jan 17, 2011)

subscribed. i have a 29 gallon, using pc bulbs, was thinking about switching to t5ho, and doing something like this in the future. i'm excited to see how it turns out.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

That's a cool idea, I'm interested to see how that will look in the end. Certainly different than all the aluminum and black hanging lights that are the current norm.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Yeah I'm not 100% what type of design to try. I really like the aluminum look but i don't have any metal working skills so i have to make due with what i got.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

I'm no designer, but for an idea the initial image I had was a very clean and plain recatangular box made out of a dark wood (ex: cherry wood) with a nice lacquer coating. Or you can just have a dark lacquer on a cheaper wood. Then the LED fixture can just sit inside the box with a hole cut out large enough for all the LEDs to show through. I feel the dark wood with cables, glass, and green plants would create a modern mix of materials and colors. 

Just an idea of course


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

The only thing i also want is to make sure i can block the lcd light from blinding me while i'm looking at the tank. So i want the frame to come down a little to help block the LCD's from viewers.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

Do you mean like a complete hood to sit on the tank so you can't see the lights at all? Or I guess you could make the box with no bottom at all and connecting the light to the top of the box so it's a few inches from the bottom, that way you couldn't see the lights without looking up and under the box and the light will be housed in wood. 

I hope that makes sense. I'm not sure if I'm suggesting a good solution for your concern


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

I want to hang the lights because i want to make sure i get a good distribution of light. So it needs to be a hanging fixture that looks modern.


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## redfishsc (Aug 29, 2010)

You have in your post that you are ordering 4 royals, is this just to play with and see if you like the color effect? (a good idea). 

If you do this, don't put the thermal epoxy on the LEDs you might potentially swap out. 

Start them out by using toothpaste as the thermal compound (no joke!) and just tape the LEDs to the array (tape across the solder pads). Test it out for an hour or so. You can also use cheap thermal paste for CPU's. Once you've decided what you like, wipe everything clean and then glue them on with the epoxy. 


Otherwise you'll have heck removing the 4 you want to change if you do want to change them.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

actually i was going to use them as moon lights. I forgot to list my moon light driver 350 watts on the list of lights. Do you think i should throw some blues in with the whites?


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

Right, I didn't think you wanted a hood, especially not when you ordered hanging cables :icon_roll

Here's a picture of what I'm trying to describe. Just an empty box with no bottom where you can attack the light inside of at the top so when it is hanging the box will appear to glow without being able to see the LEDs themselves. The box would look more modern if it were darker and perfect 90 degree angles on the edges. I'm sure however you do it will look great.










What is the difference between blue and royal blue anyway?


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## F22 (Sep 21, 2008)

I'm looking forward to the completed lights. 

_-- Sent from my Palm Pre using Forums_


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## shortsboy (Feb 6, 2011)

+1 on the excitement on seeing this done, especially with your plan to send along the par results. Thanks for being the guinea pig!


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Gig'em said:


> What is the difference between blue and royal blue anyway?


I have no idea. lol one has been knighted?????

Yeah that's the kind of casing i have in mind too. I'm using the hanging cables to hang to wooden case around the lights that's why i ordered them.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Royal blue throws off a different wavelength of light then regular blue. Corals need both wavelengths. Not important to plants b


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## Dave-H (Jul 29, 2010)

PAR meter = standing by!


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Dave-H said:


> PAR meter = standing by!


Thanks dave. I couldn't make these measurements without your wonderful par meter.


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## Dave-H (Jul 29, 2010)

It's made me so popular!


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

just fyi, the 350ma moonlight driver can only drive 4 leds max. I bought this to see if I can use it for my nano tank, running 4 crees, I got about 28umol of par at about 1 foot away, so yeah, very dim.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

IWANNAGOFAST said:


> just fyi, the 350ma moonlight driver can only drive 4 leds max. I bought this to see if I can use it for my nano tank, running 4 crees, I got about 28umol of par at about 1 foot away, so yeah, very dim.


Do you run your moonlights when your main lights turn off?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Gig'em said:


> What is the difference between blue and royal blue anyway?


This is from a CREE data sheet.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Rockhoe14er said:


> Do you run your moonlights when your main lights turn off?


Yup. The moonlights come on about an hour before the main lights come on, kind of light a dawn mode, they stay on throughout the day to add a tiny bit of blue color and make the blue on my green neon tetras really stand out. They stay on for another hour after the main lights go off for moon lights then off for the rest of the night.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

Thanks for that audioaficianado, visuals always make more sense than names and numbers


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

what do you guys think of this layout. Should i put the lights identical on each side or should it be collated like i have it in the picture.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

that's pretty nifty, never thought about doing it like that.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

also what are you thoughts on using insulated solid copper wire to connect the led's in series?


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## silentcircuit (Apr 30, 2011)

Shouldn't matter if it's solid or stranded given the fairly low voltage / amperage you're dealing with.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

good to know i wasn't sure so i wanted to make sure it was alright.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

I like the way you have them spaced out now. If you have them paired then it might make the lighting uneven since their light is so focused


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

here are some shots. It works. The only thing is that i feel some of the soldering connections are a bit weak and if they get knocked come off. Is this normal or do i just stink at soldeing?


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## chiefroastbeef (Feb 14, 2011)

If the soldering joint comes off easily by knocking, then you aren't doing the best of job. Are you using solder with rosin core? Or some sort of flux to make the solder stick? I wouldn't worry terribly much about the soldering, it isn't high stress, although you do want a strong solder connection for best conductivity.

Great job on the light by the way! Looks great.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

The problem with soldering those heatsinked LEDs is that the heat from the iron gets drawn off faster than the iron can heat up the pad. Hotter and faster does it while cooler and slower can damage or even lift pads. I learned the hard way when I was replacing some caps on my motherboard with an internal 2 oz power/ground plane. Luckily the lifted pad was isolated and the connection was in the plated through hole.

Are you pretinning pads prior to mounting the LEDs?

What wattage solder iron are you using as you seem to be getting cold joints?


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah i pre-tined everything. The led pads from rapid led come pretined so i didn't have to worry about that. I don't believe I have any cold solder joints because all of the connections have the nice shinny silver. The solder i used was 60/40 rosin core solder.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Be careful if they're coming off easily, I just burned 4 LEDs because I had it plugged in, one of the joints came off and the wire touched something and somehow there were a buncha sparks flying and boom, 24 bucks in the garbage.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

is there a trick to have good strong connections? some of my connections seem really strong and others are weaker. I was pretty afraid to let the soldering iron touch the led for too long because i didn't want to burn the led.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

I load up the soldering iron w/ a lot of solder. The pretinning on the LEDs is not enough, you gotta get a lot more on there.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> is there a trick to have good strong connections? some of my connections seem really strong and others are weaker. I was pretty afraid to let the soldering iron touch the led for too long because i didn't want to burn the led.





IWANNAGOFAST said:


> I load up the soldering iron w/ a lot of solder. The pretinning on the LEDs is not enough, you gotta get a lot more on there.


Those LEDs had to have been soldered onto the star printed circuit board (most likely in an IR conveyer oven) so they've already been briefly up to the solder fusing temperature. With RoHS everyone is using pure tin solder these days which fuses at a hotter temp than the 63/37 eutectic solder we'll be using. Those pads are thinly coated at best and have developed a tin-copper intermetalic that makes it harder to melt than pure solder. You have to solder it again to make sure it's fresh fusible solder or you will get a cold joint. A cold joint can make electrical contact, but it isn't fused together and like IWANNAGOFAST said, can come apart with disastrous results.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

What is the pretinning?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Soldering the pads and wire ends just before you solder them both together.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

I got the light fixture hung 16 inches above my tank. Wow this thing is bright. Please excuse the gehto ness of it. I thinking of getting one of those large 5 inch diameter metal tubes that are usually in loft style apartments and cutting it in half and putting it over the fixture to make it look better. 

Now i need to hope dave can come over and measure some par of this sucka


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

well i started noticing that my fixture gets pretty hot so i guess i'm going to get the fan kit from rapid led. 
1 92mm Vantec Stealth Fan Kit @ $45.00 = $45.00


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

bah don't order that.

Rapidled, while cheap for LEDs, is VERY not cheap for fans. See if you can get to fry's electronics or something for the fan itself. 

I haven't been able to find the thing that connects the fan to the power so I've been getting that from rapid, but for the fans themselves, go some where else.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

A few other cooling fan sources:

HeatsinkFactory.com
Xoxide.com
Endpcnoise.com
Coolerguys.com
SVC.com
Newegg.com

Always pay attention to shipping and handling as that is going to be part of the price you pay.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Well i guess this time i get an F for not doing my homework because i already ordered the kit. Live and learn i guess.


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## Gig'em (Apr 8, 2010)

Your tank looks great with the light on there! How hot exactly is your light getting? I'm hoping I won't have to buy a fan for man since it will have fewer LEDs, but I guess I won't know until I set it up


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

actually it gets kind of hot. I'm still able to put my hand on it and keep it on there without getting burned. I'm not sure if that's too hot or not.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Sounds like the heatsink isn't over 40°C/105°F and that should be fine as long as you used a good thermal interface material (TIM) when you mounted your LEDs.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah i used Arctic Alumina Thermal Adhesive. Is there a way to tell if your led light is running too hot? and if i didn't use enough thermal adhesive?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Arctic Alumina is an awesome product. Sounds like you you should be OK.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

The next installment is i want to mount my driver onto my heat sink for some stability and to clean up the look. Does anyone have any advice how to drill and tap my heat sink? i want to suspend the drivers over the heat sink using aluminum strips.
I also realized that i wish i drilled holes into the heatsink so i could put the wires though and make it look less gehto. So i might desolder some of my connections so that i can do this.

My next questions are where is a good place to buy 1/2 inch aluminum strips about 6 inches long?

Also what is a good way to attach these aluminum strips onto the sides of the heat sink.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Home depot has them. I saw a bunch last time I went. My dad drilled through the fins and used screws to hold the strips in. 

I don't think he used any sort of special drill or tip to tap the heatsink, just take it slow


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

did he just put a nut and washer on the end to hold it in place?


Also would it be alright to use my Arctic Alumina to connect the project box (containing my drivers) to the aluminum strips? or do i need to use some other epoxide.

Or can i just use a self tapping metal screw? or is it better to drill first?


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

yeah that's fine. I don't see why it wouldn't work.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> did he just put a nut and washer on the end to hold it in place?
> 
> 
> Also would it be alright to use my Arctic Alumina to connect the project box (containing my drivers) to the aluminum strips? or do i need to use some other epoxide.
> ...


I wouldn't waste the Arctic Alumina for gluing things together. You can use some regular epoxy or just drill and tap to make it easy to disassemble in the future.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

I went to home depot and couldn't find the aluminum strips. All i could find was some aluminum strips that had lots of pre drilled holes in it and came in a roll i think it's called plumbers tape?


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Hmm, I forgot what isle I saw it in in my home depot. But yeah, I don't think every home depot carries it. Maybe try in the ducting section.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

They got Al flat stock, angle stock, bars and tubing. Just ask the guys who work there.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah i asked. And they took me to the aisle with the aluminum pipes and tubes. But i couldn't find just a 1/2 inch wide flat stock. They had flat steel pieces but that's a little too difficult for me to work with.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Try another hardware store or check out the local scrap metal dealer.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

where do you find a scrap metal dealer? google?


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Phone book. Otherwise you could check out McMaster-Carr online. They have all kinds of metal stock and much more.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

If you look at the first post the way Soundwave mounts his fans and puts his drivers in an aluminum project box (he said he got this from radio shack so i'm going to check their first). This is what i want to do over my heat sink to give it a much cleaner look. 

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587273&highlight=skimmer+scrubber


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## Dave-H (Jul 29, 2010)

Rockhoe14er said:


> I got the light fixture hung 16 inches above my tank. Wow this thing is bright. Please excuse the gehto ness of it. I thinking of getting one of those large 5 inch diameter metal tubes that are usually in loft style apartments and cutting it in half and putting it over the fixture to make it look better.
> 
> Now i need to hope dave can come over and measure some par of this sucka



If you can make it look pretty nice by figuring out some kind of housing around it, I might have to finally go for this myself. It wouldn't be hard to hang it from the ceiling in the spot where my tank is, but I want it to look super nice and clean. I'm curious to see what you come up with!


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah i actually have a lot of good ideas that i can talk to you about tomorrow if you like of ways to make it look cleaner. Right now i'm trying to track down an aluminum supplier to just get a couple pieces. If not then i guess i'll go with the online purchase.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Rockhoe14er said:


> yeah i actually have a lot of good ideas that i can talk to you about tomorrow if you like of ways to make it look cleaner. Right now i'm trying to track down an aluminum supplier to just get a couple pieces. If not then i guess i'll go with the online purchase.


My in laws own a machine shop, what exactly do you need? I could probably get ahold of it for you. Not sure on the cost yet though, and if you can draw up some shop drawings of what you want cover wise, I bet they can machine something up for you


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Hey noah that would be amazing. take a look at this link http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587273&highlight=skimmer+scrubber

Really all i need are a couple of flexible 1/2 inch aluminum strips that are maybe 7 inches long. I want to mount this to my heat sink and then attach a project enclosure from radio shack on top of this. The other aluminum strips i want to mount some fans on just slightly above the heat sink.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Rockhoe14er said:


> Hey noah that would be amazing. take a look at this link http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1587273&highlight=skimmer+scrubber
> 
> Really all i need are a couple of flexible 1/2 inch aluminum strips that are maybe 7 inches long. I want to mount this to my heat sink and then attach a project enclosure from radio shack on top of this. The other aluminum strips i want to mount some fans on just slightly above the heat sink.


Well, they only have alum. Stock materials, basically sheets starting 1/4 thick to 4" thick lol. Go into lowes and ask for hurricane ties or strap ties, some will have holes, some will not. We call them out in our residential design all of the time.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah i want the stuff that doesn't have holes because that doesn't give as good of a clean look. I also really like the look of aluminum. I found some stuff that i believe is called plumbers tap at homedepot but it was in a huge role and they had lots of holes in it. 

do you think lowes would have a better selection than homedepot?


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

If you're looking for like, the half circle dome thing, my dad used sheet metal for that, not aluminum, he said it was for an air conditioning duct.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

if i had the tools to use sheet metal i would love to but i don't have any stuff to bend it or cut it.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Well i ended up finding exactly what i wanted yesterday at lowes. 

Note to self when you ask for 1/2 wide 6 feet long strip of aluminum they will take your to a piece of sheet metal and tell you that's all they have.... This is not true it's located next to the steel strips in lowes and i believe home depot as well. 

Also when you ask for huricane ties they will tell you that since colorado doesn't have any huricanes they do not carry this. This is also untrue Just explore the store and eventually you will find that they carry both of these items. 


Back to this thread i got the aluminum and cut it into 7 inch pieces and bent the pieces to form a U. I got self some self tapping metal screws that i'm going to drill into my piece of aluminum to attach this to my heat sink. 


I got a project enclosure from radio shack and this is what i'm going to put on top of my metal strips. Any idea's on ways to attaching metal to plastic? I don't think i want to use screws so i'm guessing i'll use some type of epoxide but i'm not sure which one.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

Rockhoe14er said:


> Well i ended up finding exactly what i wanted yesterday at lowes.
> 
> Note to self when you ask for 1/2 wide 6 feet long strip of aluminum they will take your to a piece of sheet metal and tell you that's all they have.... This is not true it's located next to the steel strips in lowes and i believe home depot as well.
> 
> ...


lol being that they are a "Building supply" store, I would assume they would know that Hurricane straps are not just for hurricane areas. they are used with roof structures holding trusses to the frame wall in high wind areas by code. (Boulder, Broomfield, Westminster requires these)

Glad you found what you needed


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah i found it in the roofing section there was lots of it. I was going to use it but then i found the aluminum strips so i went with them.


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## Noahma (Oct 18, 2009)

if you would have gone with the Hurricane ties.... at least you would know your light fixture would uphold against 100mph winds lol


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

hmmmm good point my news fans i'm using on the heat sink i bet i could create a 100 mph cooling breeze. Yes it might be a bit difficult to view the tank and keep water in the tank but totally worth it to keep my LED's nice and cold.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

Here are some par readings i made with my new fixture. 
The red is the par value at the location. 


Par measurements were also made using a ruler All 14 LED have optics

At 0 inches from light 2885 par
4 1015
8 490
12 330
16 250 
20 175
24 140 
28 120
30.5 112

14 LEd's are really bright as you can see and at a distance of 4 feet the par is around 40 par. 

I also wanted to note that my par values are very consistent while i was moving the meter horizontally at the measurements away from the light.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

Holy cow. that is a LOT of light!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 

Might be an issue w/ 112umols at the surface! haha. Have you tried it without the optics?


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

yeah it's far less around 60 par at the surface. However, it blinds me without them on.


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## Dave-H (Jul 29, 2010)

It was crazy bright. The appearance of the X-PG cool white LEDs was very, very nice - a bit of shimmer and it made the plants look great. I'm very impressed! If I could find a decent enclosure (i.e. hanging one) I might have to go for this!


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

I'm not going to build an LED fixture for my 40gal tank, but I will for my future 100+gal build. You definitely need a cowling or optics that shield your eyes from directly viewing the LED's emitter even from off angles. Cree has a warning/disclaimer about that very issue in the data sheets.


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## IWANNAGOFAST (Jan 14, 2008)

You should build that enclosure for it. That much light is not going to be good for the plants


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

well i moved the lights up even more to 40 inches above the substrate that puts me around 75 80 par at the substrate.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

I ended up getting a sheet of metal that's 24 inches by 36 inches. It seems pretty sturdy but still bendable so I'm going to try and fold it hot dog style (4th grade reference) and attach it in the sides of my heatsink. Also I want and drill into the bent sheet and attach my hanging kit. Do you think this will be strong enough? or will i need to build a frame inside under the metal to better reinforce the sheet metal.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

So i'm curious to try to turn my fixture into a dimmable one. I drew up a schematic of the wiring i would need to do. Can you guys look this over and tell me if i'm right or wrong? my physics is a bit rusty but i'm eager to try and learn.


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## audioaficionado (Apr 19, 2011)

Rockhoe14er said:


> well i moved the lights up even more to 40 inches above the substrate that puts me around 75 80 par at the substrate.


40° optics, dimmable circuit and an LED ammeter to track your output levels for repeatability would all be advantageous.


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

So i copied hoppy's idea and put an ammeter in series with my LED lights and it works perfectly. I can run the current from 1400 ma to 200 ma and below that the lights won't turn on. I also have a switch added to turn off just the ammeter. I use a 10k potentiometer to vary the voltage on the Mean Well ELN-60-48D dimmable driver. I'm so excited that i got this to work. know i just need to see if i can get dave to come over with his par meter so that i can adjust my lighting to reach my desired par


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## Rockhoe14er (Jan 19, 2011)

I checked everything again today and it seems pretty stable and everything is working. I think the wiring is doing great. My only problem now is the shaft on my potentiometer is pretty long and i'm wondering if there is a way i can file it down some.


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## Dragonfish (Apr 28, 2011)

Catalina Aquarium carries empty light fixtures for DIY use. Not a bad price and looks better than any DIY fixture I've seen, including my own 

http://www.catalinaaquarium.com/store/index.php?cPath=186&osCsid=4be6019ab8a50794a57de34f75803405


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## newbieplanter (Jan 13, 2013)

Rockhoe14er said:


> So i'm curious to try to turn my fixture into a dimmable one. I drew up a schematic of the wiring i would need to do. Can you guys look this over and tell me if i'm right or wrong? my physics is a bit rusty but i'm eager to try and learn.


I know u posted awhile ago but i would think its just like adding a on/off switch to the LEDs.


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