# Beginner plans for a 75gal low tech tank



## HybridHerp (May 24, 2012)

Well, only thing I think worth mentioning is that you might not want Ottos in a 75 unless you are keeping just small fish and want a bunch of them. There's nothing wrong with ottos or anything, its just that in a 75, you can do bristle nose plecos...just as another option.

Not sure what you mean by a dishpan for the filter though. Also, not sure how you will like the Planted + on a 75....from what I understand some people dislike LED's on wide and tall tanks...but I think you should be fine with it for low tech.

You're good on the substrate and the filters, although if you wanted, you could look into doing a dirted substrate (would help levitate the need for adding more ferts) capped with something, but eco complete is acceptable as well so long as you dose ferts and add root tabs.

For ferts, I'd actually just by root tabs from people on this forum though, its cheaper and they work better. Maybe look into some liquid/dry ferts as well? I know nilcog is my go to fertilizer guy and helped me a ton when I switched over to high tech.

Also, not sure if you care or not, but pretty sure you can do an inline heater if you wanted to...I have one on my 2217 but I forget the brand :S

Excel is nice, but not necessary. Especially depending on your plant selection. Might I suggest you look into various mosses, other crypt and anubias species, vallisneria species, different java fern varieties, and various lower light stems (you might actually be mediumish with a planted +) such as most hygrophilia species and many ludwigia species. Pretty sure rotala colorata might work for you as well. Also, look into marsalia species if you want an easy foreground, or maybe even look at DHG as I know that can be grown in a bit lower-tech (although it will take longer and never be as thick as it would be in high tech)

You got a good start going though. Excited to see what you do with this 
Also, fun fish suggestion if you want something larger....get pearl gouramis....totally worth it.


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## mike-guy (Feb 24, 2013)

I know I haven't gotten involved with root tabs because it could get expensive. Thinking covering the floor of a 75 with those will take over twenty I would think. New ones every other month maybe? Just a consideration.


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## roadmaster (Nov 5, 2009)

mike-guy said:


> I know I haven't gotten involved with root tabs because it could get expensive. Thinking covering the floor of a 75 with those will take over twenty I would think. New ones every other month maybe? Just a consideration.


 

Would not need near that many root tab's.
Excel is what would get expensive in 75 gal tank.


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## Melancakes (Jan 25, 2014)

Thank you to all who posted! Your insights are very much appreciated.

Truthfully - I have been grappling with the idea of soil. Logically it makes sense that plants would do better in soil... but the idea of "dirt" in an aquarium makes me nervous - I guess I worry that something harmful could be leftover in the soil and harm the fish. 
I know there is a nice guide on here about preparing mineralized top soil (http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=152027) - a lot of steps/odd materials to track down. So as a newbie, I thought to be ultra conservative and go with Eco Complete.

However it is quite expensive! And not only is Eco Complete expensive, those fertilizers are expensive too especially for the tank size. Perhaps its something to research further.

I guess my general intent for this tank is to be low maintenance first priority, and then if I can lower costs that would be a major bonus! Perhaps the initial high maintenance preparation of the soil would be both lower cost and less maintenance in the long run?

The dishpan - Haha, that's my leak protection. I saw a post on here (I think it was in the equipment forums) suggest a dishpan and water alarm for canister filters. Although, it only would buy some time - I shudder to think of what would happen if I was out of town or something.

Thank you for the fish and plant suggestions too!


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## canlax (Sep 8, 2012)

Glutaraldehyde may be an alternative worth investigating to save on cost of excel.


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## Lynrem (Jan 13, 2014)

canlax said:


> Glutaraldehyde may be an alternative worth investigating to save on cost of excel.


Is this what your talking about?

*MetriCide® 28 High-Level Disinfectant / Sterilant*



Extra-Long-Life High-Level Disinfectant / Sterilant
2.5% buffered glutaraldehyde. Recommended for immersible & heat-sensitive equipment/instruments
Bactericidal, Virucidal, Fungicidal, Tuberculocidal, Sporacidal
Convenient: no dilution necessary, just pour and use
Noncorrosive: Compatible with all non-lensed immersible & heat-sensitive instruments/equipment
 



If so how would you dose it?


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## jamesyu (Feb 13, 2012)

dump the idea of soil -- use like a planted substrate that's easy to manage. Something like ADA, or Azoo, or Mr. Aqua -- at 11lbs for 30 bucks, you really can't go wrong.

you can probably do about 10 bags in the 75gal and then run some low light plants. If you then up the lighting you can go Co2 and get some nice mid to highlight plants. But that's just my opinion. Soil is good, but you really gotta mineralize it first if you need to truly utilize it and it's just too much trouble IMHO.

This is only my opinion in easy and headache-less setup without worrying later.


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## HybridHerp (May 24, 2012)

jamesyu said:


> dump the idea of soil -- use like a planted substrate that's easy to manage. Something like ADA, or Azoo, or Mr. Aqua -- at 11lbs for 30 bucks, you really can't go wrong.
> 
> you can probably do about 10 bags in the 75gal and then run some low light plants. If you then up the lighting you can go Co2 and get some nice mid to highlight plants. But that's just my opinion. Soil is good, but you really gotta mineralize it first if you need to truly utilize it and it's just too much trouble IMHO.
> 
> This is only my opinion in easy and headache-less setup without worrying later.



Honestly, I've never mineralized and haven't had problems not mineralizing. But to each his own.


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## canlax (Sep 8, 2012)

Lynrem said:


> Is this what your talking about?
> 
> *MetriCide® 28 High-Level Disinfectant / Sterilant*
> 
> ...


That is one option. There is also Metricide 14 which has a slightly higher concentration of glutaraldehyde which is essentially the key ingredient in Excel. Another option is buying bulk high concentration glutaraldehyde and diluting it at home to appropriate levels for aquarium use. 

I don't think you need to dilute Metricide-14 or -28 but best to do your research. The argument is well documented on many aquarium forums.


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## sowNreap (Jun 10, 2012)

If you want to save some money on the substrate check out Safe-T-sorb. Do a search of the forums for more info about it. It a brownish color & really nice looking. It's cost $5 for 40 lbs from Tractor Supply. I bought 2-40 lb bags which ended up doing my 75 gal, 29 gal, 20 gal & my bubble 18 gal & partial 10 gal. So in other words 1 bag may have been enough to do just my 75g. LOL I was doing a 1-day substrate change out so didn't want to run out in the middle & have to go get more so bought extra. 

I'm not real sure but watch out on the Metricide 28 .. some of it that I saw had stuff other than just Glutaraldehyde that's not good for aquarium use. Both 14 & 28 need to be diluted if you want it equivalent to Excel dose. Again a forum search can help you there.


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## Jay Ferrone (Feb 3, 2014)

*Finnex Fugeray Planted + or T5 HO*

I am also planning to set up a 75 gallon low tech tank. I will probably use eco complete for my substrate with root tabs, flourish, excel, etc.
I want to have anubias, java fern, crypts, and maybe some other plants that require similar lighting.
I want to buy a light that will be sufficient.
Should I buy a 48" Fugeray planted plus, or a T5 HO fixture? Would a Dual T5 HO be too much light? I we looking at the Catalina fixtures and they look like a good deal for the money.
Any thoughts/advice?


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## Aquaticus (Jan 7, 2013)

jamesyu said:


> dump the idea of soil -- use like a planted substrate that's easy to manage.


I don't know what is easier or more inexpensive than plain topsoil. Works great. I cap with Safe-T-Sorb or Oil-Dry like sowNreap mentions, also extremely inexpensive. A gallon of Metricide is cheap if you want to go that route. It is not strictly necessary, but it will make the plants grow better.


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## thelub (Jan 4, 2013)

jamesyu said:


> dump the idea of soil -- use like a planted substrate that's easy to manage. Something like ADA, or Azoo, or Mr. Aqua -- at 11lbs for 30 bucks, you really can't go wrong.
> 
> you can probably do about 10 bags in the 75gal and then run some low light plants.


There's my problem with that fancy fired clay planted tank substrate. 300 bucks just for substrate in your aquarium. Not to mention all the other equipment costs. Can you afford that? Yes? Then great!

No? Can you afford 30-50 bucks? Yes? Then go 'dirt'. I 'dirted' my 80 for about that much. And it will grow plants for a while with out much additives because the soil already contains goodies that will grow the plants. Those expensive planting substrates don't. 

So not only do you have to spend $300 on substrate, you have to spend another $30-$50 minimum in fertilizer additives.

Organic potting mix (I got a bale of local stuff at Home Depot for like $10). 
Plain cheap kitty litter (for CEC) - $7 at Petco
3 50lb bags of paver sand - $12

That's the bare minimum. You can go from there by adding substitutes like azomite and some other goodies if you want but that can be added later via gell caps too.

The only real downfall to a dirted tank is it makes it a little difficult to rescape if you like moving your plants around. But if you do, you can always cut off your plants at the substrate level and move them. Most plants except for bulbs and swords and crypts can be moved this way.


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## Melancakes (Jan 25, 2014)

When you guys are saying dirt (organic potting mix) - do you do any preparation to it (like multiple rinsing, drying, sifting)? Or can you just put it right in the tank?


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## Aquaticus (Jan 7, 2013)

I use the bag marked topsoil at my local big box. I do not prepare it first. Put it in empty tank and press it down with your hand to an even layer about 1/2" deep. Cover with your choice of topping, gravel, sand, or a high CEC substrate like Safe-T-Sorb or Oil-Dry. Add water slowly. It will be cloudy for a couple of days until the filter clears the particulate matter.

Like thelub says, you can spend a lot of money on substrate if you want to. I have several planted tanks, and I keep my cost down by doing the above. It works for me, and is definitely low tech (and cost).


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## thelub (Jan 4, 2013)

I usually put it in a tub and get it wet like a mud pie. Just enough water to get it thoroughly wet, but not runny. Its easier to place in the aquarium and that way it will be mostly waterlogged and be less prone to floating and making a mess. I don't let it soak for very long though. Pretty much just get it wet before I start setting up the tank. I do the same with the sand cap It will be more settled that way and less prone to movement once you flood the tank. 

And better for plants to plant in wet substrate than dry because you'll want to plant before flooding.


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## JustJen (Jun 20, 2011)

Jay Ferrone said:


> I am also planning to set up a 75 gallon low tech tank. I will probably use eco complete for my substrate with root tabs, flourish, excel, etc.
> I want to have anubias, java fern, crypts, and maybe some other plants that require similar lighting.
> I want to buy a light that will be sufficient.
> Should I buy a 48" Fugeray planted plus, or a T5 HO fixture? Would a Dual T5 HO be too much light? I we looking at the Catalina fixtures and they look like a good deal for the money.
> Any thoughts/advice?


Jay,
I'm running dual bulb t5HO fixtures on three tanks (60g, 46g bow, and 29g), and I'm getting medium light at most so you should be fine. They are very nice fixtures for the money, and if you call and talk to them, they can give you recommendations for your tanks and even put together something custom if needed. Can't recommend them enough. I was afraid the dual bulb fixtures would be too much light, but they assured me it would be fine and that they have legs available to lift the light a little if it was an issue. But they were right, light levels are perfect for what I needed


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## blue_waters (Oct 27, 2012)

thelub said:


> Organic potting mix (I got a bale of local stuff at Home Depot for like $10).
> Plain cheap kitty litter (for CEC) - $7 at Petco
> 3 50lb bags of paver sand - $12


I'd love to know how this works. Do you put the kitty litter on the bottom, to prevent an anaerobic environment, then the potting mix as your plant substrate, and then cap it all with the paver sand?


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## thelub (Jan 4, 2013)

I set it up in exactly that order. Potting mix on the bottom, small layer of kitty litter for CEC properties (nutrient sponge, releases them slowly to the plants) then cap it off.


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## Melancakes (Jan 25, 2014)

Thank you for all the replies so far!! 

Since I have already bought some Eco-Complete, would it be a good idea to do the potting mix, then cap with Eco complete? And for laying - like 1.5 inches of dirt, and 1 inch Eco?
Is sand necessary to top everything off with or is that personal preference? I kind of like the dark look with the plants.

Also, is there any risk of tannins/discoloration of the water? Or is that why some people rinse/strain their dirt?


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## HybridHerp (May 24, 2012)

Melancakes said:


> Thank you for all the replies so far!!
> 
> Since I have already bought some Eco-Complete, would it be a good idea to do the potting mix, then cap with Eco complete? And for laying - like 1.5 inches of dirt, and 1 inch Eco?
> Is sand necessary to top everything off with or is that personal preference? I kind of like the dark look with the plants.
> ...



I mean probably but I've never had an issue. I think sand or Eco is a personal preference.

I've never done dirt without sand though or dirt in anything bigger than a 10 (I did 7 bags of Eco in my 75 cause it was already established and I couldn't deal with dirting it)


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## thelub (Jan 4, 2013)

Dirt will release tannins for a bit. IME it won't be extreme and tannins are good for your fish. They will go away in time.


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## wootlaws (Feb 25, 2011)

I have dirt capped with EC I like the black cap look. Seems to be fine. 
Dirt will leach tannins for about a month or two just keep up with wc and water will eventually clear up.


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