# GDA still attacking my tank. At wits end.



## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

I have previously started a thread to get some help with a particularly virulent algae here. With that post being long past its expiration date, I've opted to start this new one to renew my request for aid. 

Without further ado, here are some pictures of the offending algae. I apologize for the fact that some of these pictures are fairly low quality.























































First 4 taken today, the other two taken from the previous thread (but still representative of the issue).

There appears to be two main types here. The green layering stuff, which grows on only slightly older growth (2nd set of leaves from the top usually) and will completely coat plants, and some brown stuff. The green stuff doesn't form large spots like you would expect GSA to, and there hasn't been anything on my glass (there was some fairly significant GDA, but that's been all but gone since I reduced my light, more on that later). Wouldn't I expect to see spots on my glass if I had a GSA as bad as this? I would think so. The only time I've seen anything like this algae is on this thread by Bsmith, which almost exactly mirrors what I'm seeing. The idea floated in that thread was that there was a relation between GDA and a type of BGA that caused this crud, and Bsmith eventually cured this tank by dosing Erythromycin. This algae acts a lot like GDA, even so far as to slowly die off after several weeks (as evident from the spots on some of the S. repens above). This stuff grows on ALL of my plants, including slow growers like Crypts and fast growers like wisteria (both pictured) at roughly the same rate. It's also on all parts of the tank, include those with good circulation.

The other stuff resembles diatoms, except that it grows slower starting with the edges, and does NOT easily rub off. It appears on newer growth after only a few days. The way it tends to grow on the edges of plants is reminiscent of BBA, but it's not rough at all. You can also see the effects of it on the Pogostemon Erectus in the background of one of the pictures. The stems start lush green, then get coated in brown algae, ultimately looking like they do in that picture (green crowns on brown stems).

Tank is a 40B with T5HO (discussed later) for 9 hours, Flourite with RootMedic tabs, and pressurized CO2 (also discussed later). Dosing is as such (basically EI):

MWF: 1/2 tsp KNO3, 1/8 tsp K2SO4, 1/8 TSP KH2PO4
TuThSat: 1/8 tsp CSM+B, 1/32 DPTA Iron, 1/4 tsp MgSO4 7 H2O

Tank KH is around 10-12, GH around 13.


Here's what I've tried so far:

Increase circulation: Tank originally had only a Eheim 2217 on it. I first added a Koralia 240, then a Koralia 425, then both the 250 and 425. In the end I had enough circulation to make my fish want to seek shelter in my plants, but the issues remained. Algae continued growing. I currently have the spray of the eheim at the back of the tank 'bouncing' the current off the front so that it 'rolls' over the plants. I get pretty good distribution using this method.

Increase CO2: DC is pretty much always yellow. BPS has ranged from 3ish to 5-8 (high enough to not be able to count. I've been trying to maintain CO2 around a point where the fish start to become lazy but not quite lethargic. I'm currently trying to dial it back down to give the fish a break for awhile.

Change CO2 method: I started out with a GLA Inline atomizer. It became unsatisfactory after it started producing large bubbles (even after cleaning) and was replaced by a RG reactor. I was using this when I was injecting high levels of CO2, and it would be gurgling after only a few hours due to the large amount of CO2 being injected. The gurgling eventually got old, and I replaced it with another inline atomizer (non-GLA), which I currently have.

Reduce Photoperiod: Photoperiod was reduced to 6 hours for a time without results. I eventually brought it back up to 9 hours.

Decrease light: When I first started trying to get rid of this algae, I had three T5HO over the tank: Two Hagen Glo 2x39w on the front and one Hagen 1x39w over the back. I first removed the 1x39w, then later raised the 2x39w about four inches off the tank, and finally wrapped the fixture with a single layer of fiberglass mesh to reduce the light (I think the reduction was supposed to be 40%). I waited 2-3 weeks between each change. I've noticed a reduction in the speed of the algae growth (and a complete elimination of GDA from my glass once I wrapped my light), but it still keeps trucking along.


Dosing Mg: I dosed Mg. No response.

When I first started addressing the issues in the tank, I also had BGA. Immediately after nuking that with a half-strength dose of Eryromycin, I noticed a reduction in the growth of my green layering algae, but it soon started again.

I'm also seeing what looks like stunting of some P. Stellata that I bought emersed. I'm not sure if the algae is causing this, but the normal culprits (CO2 and micronutrients) have been pretty well covered.

My next move, as I see it, is to again dose Erythromycin (as shown by Bsmith in the previously linked thread), but I am understandably hesitant to dose antibiotics again. That being said, I've tried about every other approach to this algae unsuccessfully. Do I have any more options?


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

I usually reduce light to 4 hrs when algae appear in my tank. Then gradually increased 1 hr every few days when no sign of algae coming back.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

CO2, do not assume anything with a drop checker, my tanks , the plants have issues, and that reeks of CO2.


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

Drop checkers will show you that CO2 is in the water and is at least above a certain point, showing that at the very least CO2 output isn't an issue, but is not necessarily an indicator of how much is getting to your plants. But this problem is occurring on all of the plants in the tank, including those with ample circulation (which can be visually confirmed by the microbubbles from the atomizer). Even when I had 20x turnover and decent circulation all over the tank, the issue persisted throughout the tank.

However, I agree that many aspects of this do look like a CO2 issue. So what can cause CO2 issues if not a matter of output or circulation?


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## 150EH (Dec 6, 2004)

How long did you treat the BGA? Was it something like this? If not maybe you do need to treat it again.

I had almost your exact conditions but it got even worse my 8 year old tank had BGA and after the treatment I could see a white crusty material about one inch deep in the substrate, it was the dead BGA. After it was gone all my plants started to really thrive but I still had this problems with algae on the leaves so I finally broke down and got an RO/DI unit and I've never been more happy because it's so easy now and my tanks are spotless because I control every mineral in the water.

I also wanted to mention our house has a whole house water softener that was already producing a gH of zero but the kH was a little high like 5 dkH, but after I installed the RO unit the sediment filter was brown after just 100 gallons of water had been produced.

Have you tried backing of the ferts a little? That's another thing I would try first.


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## iano7000 (Apr 21, 2012)

Keep us posted, I'm in the same boat. I'm about to nuke my tank to kill some BGA this weekend that turned up about a week ago. I have tried very similar things to what you have done with mixed success.

One thing that seemed to help was to stay on top of topping up my water. I found that if my water dropped to far, it would change the amount of surface ripple, which would add more gas exchange. This would cause a fluctuation in CO2, which was causing some algae problems.


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## DarkCobra (Jun 22, 2004)

What's your fish/critter load? Would you consider it heavily stocked?


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## gordonrichards (Jun 20, 2009)

To see a reduction/elimination of visible algae:

Reduce lighting to 4 hours on, 2 hours off, 4 hours on.

Plants will continue to grow but algae will not prosper.

-Gordon


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

150EH: Yes, that's roughly how I did it, except minus the skimmer. I'm hesitant to back down on dosing, as it seems like whenever I do I start getting signs of deficiencies (leaf loss, holes), although that was when I reduced my EI dosing to the next smallest tank size. I could dose somewhere between the two though, and see if that gets me anywhere.

Iano: I don't have any of the slimey BGA that we normally see in planted tanks, generally attributed to low nitrates. I nuked that back in Feb-ish with good results.

DarkCobra: When the problem was at its worse and before I used antibiotics the first time, I had what I would consider a lightly stocked tank (3 platies, 2 Juvi SAE, 7 Harlequin Rasbora, and a few otos). I have since bumped up the bioload (more rasboras, lemon tetras, and a 1.5" ABNP). I didn't notice an increase in algae at that time. If it adds anything, I usually change ~70% of the water weekly.


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

gordonrichards said:


> To see a reduction/elimination of visible algae:
> 
> Reduce lighting to 4 hours on, 2 hours off, 4 hours on.
> 
> ...


I was doing that for about a month without results. Forgot to mention that in my synopsis.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Have you tried hitting it with H2O2 to see what effects it has on it? What about hitting it with Excel? Since it seems you've tried everything else, and the algae ID is a bit questionable, it may be worth a try.


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## DarkCobra (Jun 22, 2004)

Aqua_chem said:


> When the problem was at its worse and before I used antibiotics the first time, I had what I would consider a lightly stocked tank (3 platies, 2 Juvi SAE, 7 Harlequin Rasbora, and a few otos). I have since bumped up the bioload (more rasboras, lemon tetras, and a 1.5" ABNP). I didn't notice an increase in algae at that time. If it adds anything, I usually change ~70% of the water weekly.


Sounds ok to me. Was checking because I had similar symptoms, but due to a severe nutrient overload between fish food and EI in a heavily stocked tank; peaking at 150ppm nitrates before each water change.

If you don't mind snails, Ramshorns or Nerites will do a number on that kind of algae; with Ramshorns having the advantage (or disadvantage depending on your point of view) of multiplying in freshwater until all the algae is consumed. Otos tend to get lazy, snails don't. And with that much algae, even if you slow its reproduction significantly, it still amounts to a lot of new algae; so every bit of help counts.

Sorry I don't see anything obvious that accounts for what put your tank in this state in the first place, though.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Before adding snails, how about trying amano shrimp. They really do an excellent job on several kinds of algae.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

A CO2 problem is always a combination of a light problem and a CO2 problem. With a 40B tank, having 3 inches of substrate, with the lights 4 inches above the top of the tank, the light is about 18 inches from the substrate. One bulb is probably giving you about 40-50 micromols of PAR, but possibly more, so maybe 80-100 with two bulbs. A layer of fiberglas window screen drops that to about 50-60 micromols. That is enough light that CO2 is very important, but not as critical as very high light would make it be. With that light I think you will get pearling on most plants if you have adequate CO2. Do you? Do you keep the water surface constantly rippled over the whole tank? (That helps the fish to live with more CO2.) 

Even if you get everything tuned in well, unless you get rid of what algae you now have, cleaning everything well, and pruning away all plant parts that have algae, the algae may not go away. It is much easier to keep it from starting than to get it to go away after it does start.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

How old are the light bulbs in the fixture?


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

Complexity: I have not tried direct dosing with H2O2 or Excel. I used excel for a bit awhile back (to nuke some hair algae that popped up during a vacation due to an autodoser malfunction), but not long term. I suppose that's something to try before doing antibiotics. The bulbs were purchased in October of last year. 

On the topic of adding inverts: That will have to wait until my CO2 levels have been lowered to reasonable levels (which may take a bit of time at the rate I'm going), but I'm open to it.

Hoppy: If it has any impact on your calculations, these are the Hagen Glo fixtures with the wide reflectors. Thought I would include that. I do see some pearling, but it can be hard to tell due to the fizz caused by the atomizer. My spray bar is about an inch below the waterline pointed a bit below parallel to the surface, which gives me some agitation. I've never been 100% on what qualifies as a 'ripple' though.

As far as pruning goes, when I reduced my light with a screen (my most recent change), I pruned back everything and removed as many of the algae infested leaves as I could without potentially harming the plants (if I removed all affected leaves, most of the stems would only be ~1"). Still comes back.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

I'd give H2O2 a try. Just use the regular household 3% that you get at the drugstore (very cheap) and use a syringe to squirt it directly onto the algae. Be sure your filters are turned off to decrease water movement and increase contact time. Opinions vary on the maximum amount to use. Tom Barr errs on the side of caution and I think he says use no more than 1% total tank volume. I normally see people suggest 2-3%, and I've used up to 4% with good success. For just a trial run, I'd suggest starting with a small amount just to see if it has any effect on the algae at all. Also, turn your lights off for about 15 minutes after applying the H2O2 since light breaks it down. After 15 minutes, turn your filters and lights back on. No water change is needed (H2O2 breaks down to H2O (water) and O (oxygen)).

Let us know if you see any fizzing when you apply the H2O2. It can take a day or two before you see any other results, but normally the first sign is the algae will change color.

_*Caution: Do not use H2O2 with vals, hornwort, anacharis, or CRS (it is safe with RCS and amano shrimp)._

Regarding the amano shrimp -- why do you need to wait to lower your pH? They can handle high pH very well. I have 8.0 pH with tons of amanos (I buy them in lots of 100-200 at a time, I love amanos!).


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

I'm not worried about the pH, I'm worried about the very high levels I have of CO2. Probably pushing 70 ppm.

I'll dose the peroxide tonight.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Okay, I guess I misunderstood. I thought you said you had fish in the tank. If fish can handle the CO2, then amanos can (they seem to be able to handle higher levels of CO2 than fish in my experience).

So to be clear -- you have no fish in the tank, right? Just plants?

Good luck on the H2O2 tonight. I hope it works.


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

I have fish. I was under the impression that fish had a higher tolerance to CO2 than inverts.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Not all inverts are the same. Amanos are extremely hardy.

When I was setting up my 90g, I started out by adding amanos to the tank. After a few days, I decided to add some fish. They instantly curled onto their sides and started gasping. Of course, I removed them immediately and put them back in their original tank.

Turned out the probe on my pH controller wasn't properly calibrated so I was injecting far more CO2 that I thought. The amanos acted as if nothing was happening.

It might be said that the difference was the amanos adjusting to the CO2 level and the fish being put in it without an adjustment; however, it was very clear that I was injecting way too much CO2 so I don't think it was an adjustment issue.

I would not suggest this with all shrimp, but amanos are very hardy. Get a couple and see if they are okay. If so, then get a bunch more. Not only do they do a great job of cleaning up algae, but they're really a ton of fun in the tank (especially if you get a bunch of them).


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

It's been 12 hours since I treated with with H2O2. I added a total of 30 mL applied directly to some affected areas, and left other areas untreated as a control for comparison. The algae has since turned a more muted green (maybe olive colored?). It didn't bubble that much, especially compared to some clado that was hiding inside a rotala bush that I decided to hit as well. So it looks like that will at least kill it, but I'm not sure that will actually help me, as I can spot dose every single leaf in my entire tank.

And when you say 1% of tank volume.... That seems like a lot to me. That's almost 2L in a 40 breeder.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

When I was dosing 4% H2O2 in my 90g tank, I was putting 360ml of H2O2 in the tank (that's 12.17oz or 1.5 cups). Yes, it's a lot, but I knew what I had in the tank could handle it (including a bunch of amano shrimp).

So compare your concern of 30ml in a 40g tank with my experience of 360ml in a 90g tank. Check to be certain you don't have anything in the tank that's sensitive to H2O2, and as long as you don't, you shouldn't have any problems putting 30ml in the tank.

One thing to change in the method next time. Instead of turning your lights and filters on after 15 minutes, just turn on your filters. Let the H2O2 circulate throughout your tank, filtration and all, for 15 extra minutes with the lights off. Then turn the lights on. This will help maximize the use of the H2O2 you're putting in the tank.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

I just realized you were thinking you'd be putting 2liters in the tank. Okay, that's not right. You should be putting 40ml (maybe it should be called 1ml per gallon instead of 1%). Not sure who came up with the % nomenclature, but it is misleading.


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## plantbrain (Dec 15, 2003)

1 ml per gal, no more, this should be safe for most any shrimp and plant/moss.

I used the same method as G. Podio:
http://www.aquarticles.com/articles/plants/Podio_Algae_Hydrogen_Peroxide.html

I stuck with H2O2, but I was targeting green hair algae.

Instead of dosing more and more, I dose every day and did a large water change every day for 3-4 days in row.

This kicks the plants into high gear also.
So it helps on both algae and the plants.
H2O2 is heavier than water and you can see it sinking.

So foreground and lower leaves will take a hit.

I did the spot treating at the end of the low water with the water change, typically 70%(30% tank water left).

I'd wipe off as much GDA as you can at this point. Take care not to dribble any of the green dust back into the tank. Some will make it, do not worry too much about it, just try and remove as much as you can. 

Then dose the H202.

Wait 3-5 min, refill the tank.

Add about 1/2 ml per gal of H2O2 after an hour or so.

Repeated this daily for 3-4 days, there should not be much left at that point.

Take this time to also change/clean the filter, CO2 stuff, pumps, and trim the plants etc. A UV might help a little. Adjust CO2/ make sure you have ample O2 in the tank, good current and surface rippling etc. I was only able to grow GDA 1x in a 20 gal that had a few CO2 issues. I grew it 1x for only 3 weeks in a 40 gal L after inoculation. Since, I've not been able to grow it.
Even with inoculations from other folks locally.

My dosign is the same as them and did not change in the past when I had it, my light is perhaps a little different, it's higher..........spectra might be a little different, but I do not think that is the factor.

Both tanks that did get it had issues with CO2 and did not have a lot of health plant biomass also. Clogged filters might encourage various species of algae, but I kept them fairly clean.


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

Dosed the tank yesterday according to what Tom described. Should I be spot dosing the H2O2 or distributing it throughout the tank 'crop duster' style?

I should also note that a few of the leaves that I spot dosed previously to test the effectiveness of the peroxide have dropped off.

Just to clarify, I don't have much GDA on the glass. It used to be there, but since I wrapped the light in mesh, it hasn't really shown up since in appreciable amounts. Apparently less light = less algae? Who knew.... The only stuff I have is on plants.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Aqua_chem said:


> Dosed the tank yesterday according to what Tom described. Should I be spot dosing the H2O2 or distributing it throughout the tank 'crop duster' style?


Spot dosing. My method of running the filters an extra 15 minutes while the lights are still off then does the "crop duster" style for the whole tank.



> I should also note that a few of the leaves that I spot dosed previously to test the effectiveness of the peroxide have dropped off.


Which plant is it? The plant may be sensitive to H2O2. Stop dosing H2O2 until you can check for this.



> Just to clarify, I don't have much GDA on the glass. It used to be there, but since I wrapped the light in mesh, it hasn't really shown up since in appreciable amounts. Apparently less light = less algae? Who knew.... The only stuff I have is on plants.


Are you getting more algae on new plant growth or is it just remaining on the old plant growth?


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

The plant that lost some leaves was Hyptis Lorentziana.

It usually starts about 1-2 sets of leaves down from the top of stem plants and soon after leaves reach full size on crpyts, sagittaria, etc.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Aqua_chem said:


> The plant that lost some leaves was Hyptis Lorentziana.


I can't find anything on how well it tolerates H2O2. I would expect it to do just fine, but you never know. So I have to say you'll be doing this one at your own risk. There is no information that I can find that says it's okay, but on the good side, I also can't find anything that says it's been killed by H2O2 either. I think that's because Hyptis lorentziana isn't a very common plant.



> It usually starts about 1-2 sets of leaves down from the top of stem plants and soon after leaves reach full size on crpyts, sagittaria, etc.


That's not really answering my question.

Are you seeing new algae appear on new leaves?

Or are you only dealing with existing algae on older leaves?


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

If I loose that plant but beat the algae, that's acceptable losses; this is war.

It's hard to tell whether the algae is continuing to grow. If I had to pick between growing and not growing, I would side with growing. 

It also looks like only the places that were directly dosed were affected. Lighter doses seem to have been largely ineffective.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Aqua_chem said:


> If I loose that plant but beat the algae, that's acceptable losses; this is war.


Now you know what drove me to go to 4ml per gallon.

If it was my tank and I was at the point you are at (where losing a plant or two would be worth it if it meant getting rid of the algae), then I'd increase the dose to 2ml per gallon for the next treatment. If that goes well, then decide whether you want to increase it again. 2-3ml is commonly used. 1ml is conservative. 4ml is unheard of (but it was my own tank so I could do what I wanted with it).

The higher the dosage, the more effective the "whole tank method" becomes when the H2O2 circulates throughout the tank (with lights off).

You can also dose more than once per day. I usually hit my tanks twice a day. As long as the previous H2O2 has broken down to water and oxygen, then you're not double dosing.

Just keep in mind that when you increase the aggressive use of H2O2, you also increase the risk of losing some plants. Personally, I haven't lost any, but there are too many plants out there for me to say you won't. Ditto with fish and inverts. I haven't ran into problems, but I can't say you won't. So increase the dosage only at your own risk. If you do increase it, I would do so incrementally, watching closely for any adverse effects.

I'm looking forward to when you can finally post that all the algae is dead! I know you'll be feeling much better winning the battle over it. :smile:


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

Tank is looking much better. For 5 days, I dosed 1.5 mL H2O2/gal directly to affected areas, and let it sit 5-10 min, and then turned on a Koralia powerhead. I let the tank circulate for another 10 mins or so, then dose another 1-1.5 mL/gal directly into the power head. Tank looks much better. It's been a few days since I stopped dosing, so I'm still waiting to see if it grows back.


This raises an interesting point though. What could this algae have been if H2O2 had such an effect against it? It make me wonder if water column dosing of peroxide might be effective against GDA zoospores.


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

Yup, stuff's still in the tank. Looks like some of it managed to survive on the lower leaves of my Limnophila aromatica. Short of spot dosing every bit of it in the tank, what options do I have?


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

I'm going to catch flack for posting this, but I feel your pain. So I'm going to post how I handle this situation. Keep in mind that this is more risky than other courses of action; however, in my experience, it can handle problems like what you're experiencing more successfully.

So if you understand that what I'm about to suggest has a higher risk, then keep reading.

When a tank is so full of algae that spot treating just does not work because the algae is able to come back before you can get all the spots, I prefer to nuke the entire tank. This technique combines spot treating with H202 and the "whole tank method" to kill the algae throughout the entire tank.

Risks involved are possible death to any and all plants and any and all fish and inverts. However, I have not experienced this. But I cannot account for all plants, fish or inverts out there so this technique is bound to kill some things in people's tanks.

The amount of H2O2 to use can range between 1ml per gallon (very safe) to 3ml per gallon (risky) to 4ml per gallon (very risky). The highest dosage I have ever used is 4ml per gallon.

Once you have determine the maximum amount of H2O2 to use in the tank, use a syringe with the smallest diameter needle you can find. I managed to buy one in the SNS section here that is very long but very skinny. The smaller the diameter, the more control you have during spot treatment.

Turn off the filters. Spot treat all the H2O2 you calculated earlier as the maximum amount to dose the tank. Hit the worst areas as best you can. Use as little H2O2 on each area so you can spread the H2O2 to as many areas as possible. The goal is to spot treat ALL the bad spots, if possible.

Then turn off your lights.

Wait 15 minutes.

Turn on your filters (but leave the lights off).

Wait another 15 minutes.

Turn on your lights.

Do not do a water change (at least for several hours). You want the H2O2 to continue killing algae throughout the tank.

Your tank will go nuts with bubbles everywhere. You are treating the entire tank with a high dose of H2O2. This means any spores in the water are being treated, as well. Any algae hiding between leaves is being treated. Everything everywhere is being treated.

Your tank water may turn cloudy. This is caused by having so much algae die at once. If that happens, then go ahead and do a 50% water change. Your bacteria is fine. This technique does not kill the bacteria. The problem is you have so much dead algae in the tank that the bacteria may have trouble keeping up with it so now you need to do water changes to get the dead algae out of the tank.

By the next day, you should be able to see where the algae has died. If the tank was really covered in algae and you were unable to spot treat all the areas, then some algae may have survived. In that case, give the tank some time to recover from the last treatment and then hit it again with another treatment. 1-2 treatments should be all you have to do.

The first week after treatment, your tank may not look so good. You may be afraid you've made a big mistake. You'll have dead algae everywhere and in some places, it'll seem as if the dead algae won't go away. Just be patient.

In about a week. the dead algae will have melted away, the water will have cleared, and you will have a sparkling tank. As long as you have corrected whatever caused the algae to take over the tank in the first place, the algae won't return. If you see algae coming back, then you know you still have something out of balance that needs to be corrected. Make the adjustments and treat the algae before it takes over the entire tank and requires such drastic and risky measures to clean back out.

You have to use your own judgement as to whether you want to try this. I have personally done this a couple of times and have found to prefer it over the constant spot treatment method. However, it is important to understand that it does carry extra risks so only do this if you are willing to take those risks.


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## Aqua_chem (Jul 23, 2011)

Right now I'm trying antibiotics. I'll see how that goes first before nuking the tank (which I am considering). Nothing in the tank is particularly sensitive, so hopefully that will help.


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## Complexity (Jan 30, 2008)

Let us know if you find something that works. I really hope you can be free of the algae soon so you can start enjoying your tank again.


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