# Clippard New DV, old Mouse solenoids and the 15490-5 manifold



## randallabrown (Mar 5, 2014)

That is great news. Thanks for sharing the info Bettatail.

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## KribsDirect (Nov 15, 2013)

This made my day! I broke 9 of 10 connections and this last one only needs a bump to crack on over and break! 

I also agree.. early warning is very helpful! Quite a few selfish hoarders out there indeed.


Thanks for the good news!


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

credit to Neilshieh, he contacted the engineers from clippard a while ago and suggested an all 1/8 npt port single manifold, apparently, clippard took his suggestion.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Very good news indeed!!! Where is Neil, everyone in the co2 hobby owes him a thanks!


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## ryu1 (Aug 26, 2011)

If I have a EV-2-12 (without manifold mount), what do I need in order to use this manifold?


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

ryu1 said:


> If I have a EV-2-12 (without manifold mount), what do I need in order to use this manifold?


The manifold mount solenoid.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

That is where there are different approaches used by different people. Bettatail and I have differing views of what we want but we each feel we like our method. No harm in differing views? 
If you want to use the solenoid you have, you would not need/want the manifold.
If you want to go with solid piping, you will need a fitting to go from the 10-32 opening (port) on the Clippard up to 1/8 inch NPT. This is one source for those:
http://www.frightprops.com/pneumati...gs/small-cylinder-port-adapter-0776-0381.html
Be aware that the shoulder on this fitting will need to be filed down to turn under the lip of the Clippard. Not a hard thing but does take a file and some time.
On the other hand, if you do not favor solid piping and want to use flexible tubing to place the solenoid away from other parts, you will need 10-32 to barb adapters to fit the tubing you want to use. These are available various places on the net but for personal use where you only want a few, there is a really cheap source. There is a plastics factory (Ark-Plas) in Flippin , Arkansas who has a vast lineup of plastic items which might fit our use. They will not sell in small volume. They will do something better, though. If you go online and make a request, they are quite willing to send you 5 samples of each item like fittings and check valves for no charge. Free is a pretty good price for 5 fittings but if you need more than that , they are available on Amazon or the bay.
Happy shopping!


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Another new product by Clippard is their DV solenoid. Very sexy, and I'm guessing expensive. You can use it with the same manifold.









=======










PS - If anyone buying the clippard mouse, get their wire adapter or terminal spades to avoid having the thin wires rip.


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## wastedtime (Oct 27, 2011)

BettaTail : First off thank you for posting the information about the clippard mouse solenoid. 

I have some questions about the mouse solenoid. I see that you have used the ETO 3M solenoid in the pictures you posted. There is obviously also the EV-2M and ET-2M

Which one is better for our application ? there are tons of cheap ETO 3M on ebay. Can we use those instead of the EV-2M ?


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

> Hey Bettatail,
> I have some questions about the mouse solenoid. I see that you have used the ETO 3M solenoid in the pictures you posted. There is obviously also the EV-2M.
> Which one is better for our application ?


Most 3 way clippard mouse, can be converted to a 2 way.

with the cap(yellow, green, white), means it is a Normally Close solenoid. 
If you see a rare version clippard mouse solenoid without cap, it is Normally Open solenoid, avoid it.
There are 2 way and the 3 way versions with the cap. for three way version, the exhaust port(or normally open port) is on the top.

the 3 way mouse, only the E?O-3(M)-()VDC has a seal-able top/exhaust port, easy to distinguish from the part number because there is O (the third letter). also easy to distinguish from it is appearance: the top has 10-32 UNF female port, 99% of the "O", with a protruding hex shape 10-32 port, the rest 1% are the rare flush top, the 10-32 port opening is same level as the cap.
another 3 way mouse, with no "O" in it is part number, it is the permanently open top exhaust port, the physical appearance is the grilled cap.

For the "O" version 3 way, to convert to 2 port, seal the top/exhaust port with a 10-32 screw.
For the none "O" version 3 way, exhaust port can be sealed but tricked.

and in our co2 system, 3 way solenoid(not sealed exhaust port) is fine, because once the solenoid turn off, the exhaust port will only release the co2 from the section after the solenoid, and stop the co2 injection almost immediately(most of the remaining co2 in the tubing will not go in fish tank but come out from exhaust port). 
But, if you want to leave the exhaust open, make sure the check valve on the system is a good one, and it is between the needle valve and the bubble counter, because leave the exhaust port open is quite a challenge for the check valves, water in the bubble counter will back flow if the check valve is low quality.

2 way or 3 way clippard mouse, same quality.


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## ryu1 (Aug 26, 2011)

oldpunk78 said:


> The manifold mount solenoid.


I was hoping there is an adapter of some sort giving it a manifold mount. I guess it is cheaper to just get one from the bay. 


PlantedRich said:


> That is where there are different approaches used by different people. Bettatail and I have differing views of what we want but we each feel we like our method. No harm in differing views?
> If you want to use the solenoid you have, you would not need/want the manifold.
> If you want to go with solid piping, you will need a fitting to go from the 10-32 opening (port) on the Clippard up to 1/8 inch NPT. This is one source for those:


Thanks, and I am currently just using a 10-32 to 1/8 npt adapter but it isnt strong and did manage to break a couple fittings. Hard to find stainless steel part. Let me know if you any leads. Thanks.


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## wastedtime (Oct 27, 2011)

Bettatail said:


> Most 3 way clippard mouse, can be converted to a 2 way.
> 
> with the cap(yellow, green, white), means it is a Normally Close solenoid.
> If you see a rare version clippard mouse solenoid without cap, it is Normally Open solenoid, avoid it.
> ...


This is extremely helpful.. Thank you :biggrin:


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Another source for these mini solenoids is a company called "Video Jet" and another called "KPI" , enjoy and happy hunting.


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## newbieplanter (Jan 13, 2013)

Tanks for the info here!


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## Cab123 (May 13, 2011)

clippard charge too much for handling fee..


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

Cab123 said:


> clippard charge too much for handling fee..


I'm pretty sure they do that to encourage people to buy from distributors.


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## hamato (Jun 7, 2008)

oldpunk78 said:


> I'm pretty sure they do that to encourage people to buy from distributors.


Local distributor charges me 2x what clippard online does and never has anything in stock. Even with the 25$ in fees+shipping costs it was still cheaper  Now if you are only buying a $5 part it is quite annoying.


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## quark (Jan 10, 2014)

WOW! where was this when I ordered my Clippard stuff. Guess I'll order on my next setup. BTW, I've had great success with ClaytonControls.com for ordering my clippard stuff. They were able to ship to me via USPS.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

For new Clippard parts, I'm getting good results from the local distributer for them. They certainly do not stock all the hundreds of parts but they have been able to get all I wanted. since there is a local company here in the Austin area, I find a simple walk in purchase works quite well if I do a bit of advance planning. They sometimes need to get in before pickup so I call and check first but they are quite willing to do that. The Clippard solenoid that I prefer is the ET-2-12 and is hard to find on auction sites so I do go new at times. The current price is $25.27 which is well within my comfort zone to get a really good solenoid. I have been able to find used for $12-15 dollars but that has some risks involved. If you are near a distributer, a quick check might be worthwhile. 
Sunsource and Wilson Co. are two in my end of the world but the Clippard site will tell you who handles your area.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Has anyone got the new manifold yet? My bag says 1549C-5 instead of 15490-5.

What you guys use for the terminal spade plugs? It's smaller than the ones I'm familiar with, the connection I use is 22-16 AWG and it's is a bit loose.

Would the 20 dollar plug be worth it?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I may be a bit spoiled but I really like the security of soldered joints. Another option might be to add a bit of wire to each lug to tighten it up. Something like a 24-26 gauge folded and the connector pushed over it.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Did you solder on the spade connecters or a wire leading to the adapter? It looks really hard to properly solder the plugs, they're so close together.


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## quark (Jan 10, 2014)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Has anyone got the new manifold yet? My bag says 1549C-5 instead of 15490-5.
> 
> What you guys use for the terminal spade plugs? It's smaller than the ones I'm familiar with, the connection I use is 22-16 AWG and it's is a bit loose.
> 
> Would the 20 dollar plug be worth it?



I went to my hardware store and bought spade plugs. They are the .110 sized ones, really tiny, I soldered some 22guague wire instead of crimping it. I think the more common spade plugs are 1/4" ones, that'll fit real loose. Alternatively, you can get the solenoid with 18" bare wires leads for more options.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Yeah, I did something kind of similar but the smallest they had were 22-16 AWG and it's a bit loose. 

Are your spade lugs insulated at the end or fully insulated? The male spade lugs are metal with no cover and a plastic cover for the wire to be crimped.


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## quark (Jan 10, 2014)

My spade lugs, female side, which goes onto the male end on the solenoid are bare metal. No insulation. I soldered them on and used heat shrink over the whole thing to insulate them. The size of the spade terminal is done by wire size and the width of the actual terminal. I was assuming that your 22-16 awg terminal was loose on when put on the spade terminal on the solenoid. If so, sounds like you are using .25" spade terminals meant for 22-16awg wire. You'll need to get .110" spade meant for 22-16awg wire. If you do a search for .110" spade terminals, you should get some hits.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Has anyone got the new manifold yet? My bag says 1549C-5 instead of 15490-5.
> 
> What you guys use for the terminal spade plugs? It's smaller than the ones I'm familiar with, the connection I use is 22-16 AWG and it's is a bit loose.
> 
> Would the 20 dollar plug be worth it?


You didn't get one of the new solenoids did you?


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Yes, thank you quark, that exactly what I need. I brought the wrong terminal connectors, mine are bigger than those. 

@Josh, naw still thinking about it. It's gorgeous tho, just a bit on the pricey side since it's so new.


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## charlie 1 (Oct 22, 2006)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Yes, thank you quark, that exactly what I need. I brought the wrong terminal connectors, mine are bigger than those.
> 
> @Josh, naw still thinking about it. It's gorgeous tho, *just a bit on the pricey side since it's so new.[/*QUOTE]
> What price are you getting?


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

About 65, and 10 manifold and 10 adapter, ship is another 10. No idea why things are so much cheaper in Ottawa, those Co2 tanks are a steal compared to here.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I go with the ET rather than the other models since the plug is not something I like and the wires on the ready made (EV) are just pretty weak. Rather than worry that a slip/trip might break the wires in a spot that is hard to repair, I like to use my own wire which is far less prone to breaking as well as being able to repair it if/when it should get damaged. Once I had done a few, I got much more critical of what I wanted to buy and use. That is how I got around to going with new when I found I could buy them locally and avoid shipping. I could occasionally get some at a decent price on auctions but when I looked at used plus shipping with the inherent danger of not getting good stuff, the price for picking up a new item was not enough to sweat it. Rather than use hours searching on the net for bargains, the bargain seems better to just call and have them get exactly what I like to use. It does require planning a week ahead to let them know what I want as they do sometimes have to get it shipped to them.


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## charlie 1 (Oct 22, 2006)

FlyingHellFish said:


> About 65, and 10 manifold and 10 adapter, ship is another 10. No idea why things are so much cheaper in Ottawa, those Co2 tanks are a steal compared to here.


I`m waiting for a quote on the DV valve from Wainbee, will let you know what they quote me.
The tanks are now 105 +tx = still way cheaper than the prices the vultures your way are asking.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

PlantedRich said:


> I go with the ET rather than the other models since the plug is not something I like and the wires on the ready made (EV) are just pretty weak. Rather than worry that a slip/trip might break the wires in a spot that is hard to repair,


Yeah, the EV wires are too small for my liking. I wish Clippard had bigger wire gauges, I guess they don't call it the mouse for nothing.



charlie 1 said:


> I`m waiting for a quote on the DV valve from Wainbee, will let you know what they quote me.
> The tanks are now 105 +tx = still way cheaper than the prices the vultures your way are asking.


What regulator build are you doing with the DV? It's one of the best looking solenoid (low power too) and the price isn't too bad considering a new mouse is 20 - 30 ish. And yeah, still on the hunt for a silver aluminum tank that isn't 180+ tax.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

here is the picture of new built, with the 15490-5 manifold

to see detail, enlarge the pictures.

Victor hpt500 chassis regulator


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Very nice! Did you custom order that M series, I haven't seen them with 1/8 NPT ports. Does that SMC work on the side like that? What connection are you going to use for the mouse? I'm trying to pick up the adapter, a bit expensive since it around 20 dollars over here.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Very nice! Did you custom order that M series, I haven't seen them with 1/8 NPT ports. Does that SMC work on the side like that? What connection are you going to use for the mouse? I'm trying to pick up the adapter, a bit expensive since it around 20 dollars over here.


I had questions but different points? Don't I see a 14/ to 1/8 reducer as first part out of the body? But I also wondered about the plastic SMC part. Does it go to a future second lead to a tank? Don't I see the first source as the black tubing through the bubble counter and needle valve? Maybe used as a temporary stopper for the extra hole? 

When you mention the adapter are you speaking of the manifold under the solenoid? I could do a phone call and check the price as a walkin here. My shipping is way cheaper and would volunteer to pick one up if it worked for you. PM me a part number if you want me to check.


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## Bettatail (Feb 12, 2009)

FlyingHellFish said:


> Very nice! Did you custom order that M series, I haven't seen them with 1/8 NPT ports. Does that SMC work on the side like that? What connection are you going to use for the mouse? I'm trying to pick up the adapter, a bit expensive since it around 20 dollars over here.





PlantedRich said:


> I had questions but different points? Don't I see a 14/ to 1/8 reducer as first part out of the body? But I also wondered about the plastic SMC part. Does it go to a future second lead to a tank? Don't I see the first source as the black tubing through the bubble counter and needle valve? Maybe used as a temporary stopper for the extra hole?
> 
> When you mention the adapter are you speaking of the manifold under the solenoid? I could do a phone call and check the price as a walkin here. My shipping is way cheaper and would volunteer to pick one up if it worked for you. PM me a part number if you want me to check.



The swagelok M series is 1/8 male npt inlet/outlet, I picked it up a while ago as new old stock item.
The SMC needle valve is indeed the secondary output, prefer to use for a higher output(bigger fish tank). the port that the SMC needle valve mounted on, is actually the mounting hole for the manifold, I simply poke another hole to this mounting hole and make it a second output.

the black tube is Clippard polyurethane air hose, 250psi rating, good stuff.

the spade blade on the clippard mouse solenoid, any standard 2.8mm female spade connector fits.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I've just got hands on with several of the manifolds mentioned. It gives me a chance to ponder the question on labeling. Looks like a simple problem with the printing on the plastic bags. When you print 15490-5 but have a tiny amount of the "0" skipped, you get 1549C-5. Or it could be they just missed on the bag labels but all of mine came in looking like a "C" instead of "0". One of those little quirks to make us wonder? 
I see Bettatail has been using the manifold with the two mounting holes toward the aquarium side (output) Has anybody checked or questioned which is the preferred way to orient the manifold? In through the center stud going up through the solenoid and then out the small hole in the ring on the solenoid bottom, sound right to you guys ?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I sent Clippard an e-mail and they verify that is the correct way to turn it.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

Sorry Rich, what was your question? Are you asking about the ring around the mouse? You can rotate the top and position the wires but don't remove the entire thing.

The ring is just a lock and unlock, and I'm not sure if the position on the manifold matters as long as the mouse is screw in tightly. I'll try to find a pic of my regulator with the new manifold, I haven't be able to take any glamour shots, refilling the cylinder soon, but here it is.










*Disregard the laundry, and yes, it's at 500 psi (needs to be refill soon).


Thanks for the offer, I already ordered the quick connect - clippard - plug, it's just a longer adapter to the terminal spade connecters. I brought a very short AC adapter, needed more wire space.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Quote: "Sorry Rich, what was your question? Are you asking about the ring around the mouse? You can rotate the top and position the wires but don't remove the entire thing."

No, I was questioning if there was a specific way that the solenoid manifold should be mounted. Clippard tells me that it will work turned backwards but the preferred way is to put the mounting holes on the manifold toward the field or output side. That lets the gas flow through the solenoid in the way it is designed rather than backwards. The fellow agreed that a mark would be nice since it is not yet in the catalog. 
It would be my guess that if there was sufficient pressure on the wrong side of the seal in the solenoid, there would be a chance of it pushing pass even when the solenoid was released. Something to be aware of if the forum starts getting complaints that the solenoid won't shut down the flow?


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## CrazyCory (Apr 29, 2009)

PlantedRich said:


> For new Clippard parts, I'm getting good results from the local distributer for them. They certainly do not stock all the hundreds of parts but they have been able to get all I wanted. since there is a local company here in the Austin area, I find a simple walk in purchase works quite well if I do a bit of advance planning. They sometimes need to get in before pickup so I call and check first but they are quite willing to do that. The Clippard solenoid that I prefer is the ET-2-12 and is hard to find on auction sites so I do go new at times. The current price is $25.27 which is well within my comfort zone to get a really good solenoid. I have been able to find used for $12-15 dollars but that has some risks involved. If you are near a distributer, a quick check might be worthwhile.
> Sunsource and Wilson Co. are two in my end of the world but the Clippard site will tell you who handles your area.


great information. ET-2-12 is a nice choice, but how do you connect it to the rest of the rig? 10-32 to 1/8 NPT adapter or something similar?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

CrazyCory said:


> great information. ET-2-12 is a nice choice, but how do you connect it to the rest of the rig? 10-32 to 1/8 NPT adapter or something similar?


Two options now. One can use tubing and 10-32 to a barb to fit your choice of tubing. I like this as I can hang it on my stand out of the way when changing tanks, etc. It's small and lightweight.









But if one is set up different and wants solid piping, we can now use the manifold with solenoids that have an "M" after the number of ports. 
ET-2M-12 or ET-3M-12 are for manifold mounting. 


The stud on the bottom of the solenoid screws into the larger hole on the manifold and the gas passes in/out through the smaller holes. There is a rubber gasket on the bottom of the solenoid to seal things. The manifold then has 1/8 NPT threaded holes on each side for piping. 
1/8 nipples can often be found in the brass fittings at big box.


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## NJAquaBarren (Sep 16, 2009)

Noob question. How do you get power to the Mouse? I like the plug option, but that ends in wires. Can you get power supplies with compatible spade ends, or are you splicing something in no matter which mouse option you choose? 

Really ignorant on electrical stuff.

Thanks


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

How and what to use for power will depend on which solenoid you get. One of the reasons I like the ET-2-12 is that the "ET" gives you terminals. The metal lugs sticking out? From there I get the -12 which requires 12VDC to power it. I find 12VDC to be a very common item as it is used for so many things. 18 or 24V might be okay but they are less common and I like finding the power supplies at thrift stores where they are $2! 
For me the easy way is to get the power supply that puts out 12VDC. Almost all of them will put out enough MA (milliamps) to power the Clippard. The Clippard only needs 67MA so get a supply that is rated for 100MA or more. Most will be fine. In this case more power is not a problem as long as the 12VDC is correct. I find one with the flat wire rather than round as it is easier work. The round type has wire braid and is a nuisance to solder or work. I cut off the plug, strip the wires and add small little crimp-on lugs to fit the terminals. At times I want to run the wires through holes in the stand or move it so plug on terminals are handy at times. It is common to hear folks can't find the right lugs to fit. Go to a computer parts store for the right size to fit the small wires as well as the small terminals. You are not likely to find the right size at the auto parts store. Too small for cars. Crimp them on with almost anything handy, pliers, small hammer, etc. Plug either wire to either terminal as polarity is not a factor in this case. 
One note on the lugs is that when you are using the right size, they will likely be VERY tight. It is smart not to plug them on until you are ready and have the wires in place. They will come off with effort and a pair of pliers but not easy!!!


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## NJAquaBarren (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks Rich. Figured it was a mod. Glad it's a simple one. The Clippard plug looks like a secure option and would have to splice it to a PS. That should be fairly simple as well. 

Thanks for the simple clarification. I like the smaller Mouse and look forward to giving it a try.


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## Kensho (Oct 24, 2012)

I'd like to order one of these with the 1/8 manifold and power supply. Always good to have a backup on hand


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Kensho said:


> I'd like to order one of these with the 1/8 manifold and power supply. Always good to have a backup on hand
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


This is one of those sad cases where there is opportunity but most are passing on the option. I ordered several solenoids and manifolds and paired them up with power supplies. When I had what I wanted for my use, I offered the remaining sets up on the sale section. they sold out almost immediately so it would seem to indicate there is a good market for them. 

But then it is also true that I never intended to make a job of it. Sorry, none on hand and nobody else seems to offer the service. Anybody out there who wants to spend a bit of time and invest some upfront cash to start a small business?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

Check with your local clippard dealer. I never had to pay for shipping through them. For regulators, solenoids and needle valves, check with your local bio lab surplus. They have a lot of goodies. 


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

Clippard is in my city but too bad they don't have a store front where I can just swing by. I'd have to go through a dealer like you guys or pay shipping straight from clippard.


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## neilshieh (Sep 6, 2010)

If you're local dealer is too far/inconvenient, they will often times ship to you as well. For my local dealer to ship me parts it only costs 6-10 dollars. This is cheaper than clippard's shipping and handling charge.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

The problem I found with having a local distributer is that they do not plan to stock the thousands of things that they sell. They do the sales and collections while just sending the order through to the various companies. This is such a small item on the grand scale of things that I would not expect to find it in stock very many places. 
I see this often when I get involved with changes to be made in industrial stuff. Many times, the guy who makes the stuff doesn't want to have anything to do with the hassle of end users. The wholesale guy doesn't want the hassle either so if there is not a retail storefront who wants to deal with the small one item deal, it gets difficult to buy just one.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

It's not just clippard, everyone does it. From Parker, to Swagelok, to no-name brands, it's costly buying just one item.


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

PlantedRich said:


> The problem I found with having a local distributer is that they do not plan to stock the thousands of things that they sell. They do the sales and collections while just sending the order through to the various companies. This is such a small item on the grand scale of things that I would not expect to find it in stock very many places.
> 
> I see this often when I get involved with changes to be made in industrial stuff. Many times, the guy who makes the stuff doesn't want to have anything to do with the hassle of end users. The wholesale guy doesn't want the hassle either so if there is not a retail storefront who wants to deal with the small one item deal, it gets difficult to buy just one.



They do if you talk to them that you are a frequent buyer. They will stock it for you. 


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

Distributors don't have everything on stock. You call them first to see and if they don't, they'll order it for you and then you go pick it up.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

AlanLe said:


> They do if you talk to them that you are a frequent buyer. They will stock it for you.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


So all I have to do is tell them a total lie so that I can save $20-30 ? 
Humm? Think I will just pass on that idea. 
When you get on that path you will find it a slippery slope!


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

PlantedRich said:


> So all I have to do is tell them a total lie so that I can save $20-30 ?
> Humm? Think I will just pass on that idea.
> When you get on that path you will find it a slippery slope!



You don't have to lie. Just be honest to them and tell them that your order is small and you don't want to pay for the high shipping fee. Also ask them to stock the item for you. 


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## mistergreen (Dec 9, 2006)

Yeah, you don't lie. The distributor don't mind having products in stock. That's their business.


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## charlie 1 (Oct 22, 2006)

In my neck of the woods, the local distributer will order the parts they don`t have it in stock , sans shipping cost.


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## NJAquaBarren (Sep 16, 2009)

What preferred for the threads connecting the solenoid to the manifold - Teflon, or goo?


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Either does the job if you are referring to pipe dope like comes in a stick or tube like glue might. All the pipe joints were done with dope before Teflon so now it is just a question of which you like better. 
Dope is a bit more messy but it can be handy. Do you like to flip a few loops of tape which requires getting it wrapped in the right direction but clean or the simple smear it on without much thinking but have to wipe the hands when done?


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## NJAquaBarren (Sep 16, 2009)

Thanks Rich. I use Teflon for all other joints, just thought I read somewhere not to use Teflon for joining the solenoid to the manifold as its a difficult area to wrap perfectly and Teflon material can interfere with operation. Can't remember where I read that or how valid, but I never forgot it.


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## oldpunk78 (Nov 1, 2008)

NJAquaBarren said:


> Thanks Rich. I use Teflon for all other joints, just thought I read somewhere not to use Teflon for joining the solenoid to the manifold as its a difficult area to wrap perfectly and Teflon material can interfere with operation. Can't remember where I read that or how valid, but I never forgot it.
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


If you cut some tape off with the threads anywhere before the solenoid, you risk some getting stuck on the orifice and causing a leak. Almost all of the solenoid manufacturers suggest running a screen upstream of it to debris from entering it.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

I would agree that the Teflon has more hazard if is run out too far toward the end so that parts of it could get cut off when screwing it in and those parts could get hung in the small openings downstream. But then the way to solve the question is to leave a thread of two showing at the end that goes in first. 
Most new pipe people get all wired about having a leak and they work so hard to avoid the leak that they shoot themselves in the foot. Normally most folks are able to screw two things together and use just a bit of thought so that it works out. 
Like the old boy that wanted to call himself a master plumber but had found a new way to avoid leaks by putting both tape and putty on every joint! Bet his boss was happy when he saw that!! 
If we were plumbers but worried about leaks we wouldn't last long.


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## ChadKruger (Mar 27, 2013)

I bought one of these set ups a few years back from Betatail prior to the 15490-5 manifold coming out. It was a moded job he did with brazing a tube to the manifold. Sadly it fell over and broke the brazing loose and the tube came out. 
Now I'm about to order a new manifold but not sure the proper fittings to use. I don't want to guess at it. 
Are you guys familiar with it and what you'd recomend?


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## AlanLe (Jan 10, 2013)

ChadKruger said:


> I bought one of these set ups a few years back from Betatail prior to the 15490-5 manifold coming out. It was a moded job he did with brazing a tube to the manifold. Sadly it fell over and broke the brazing loose and the tube came out.
> 
> Now I'm about to order a new manifold but not sure the proper fittings to use. I don't want to guess at it.
> 
> Are you guys familiar with it and what you'd recomend?



It depends on the ports of your needle valve. I built a dual outputs using the new clippard manifold. The fittings that connect the needle valve to the manifolds are 1/4 OD tube x 1/8 mnpt. 



Sent from my planted tank using Tapatalk


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

ChadKruger said:


> Are you guys familiar with it and what you'd recomend?


Bettatail was way a head of the game back then, you're holding up a piece of history, think of it as the 1.0 beta version of the manifold clippard sells today. . 

Chad,
You need to grab the 10 dollar manifold from clippard and just screw the bottom of the solenoid on.


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## ChadKruger (Mar 27, 2013)

Well Betatail did a amazing job. It's worked like a champ for years it's my own fault it broke.


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

With the new manifold life is much simpler. Unscrew the solenoid you have, screw it on the new manifold and plumb from there with simple fittings that Lowe's ,etc. may stock. The new manifold does the job to replace the brazing, etc. Page one has good pics to look over.

But on another point, tipping over has some real hazards of it's own? No bottle rockets around the fish tank!


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## creekbottom (Apr 5, 2012)

I love the mouse solenoid but that 10/32 size has got to be the dumbest thing ever. This manifold is great BUT WHY ARE THEY IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND!!!!!


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## alberth (Feb 13, 2015)

creekbottom said:


> I love the mouse solenoid but that 10/32 size has got to be the dumbest thing ever. This manifold is great BUT WHY ARE THEY IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND!!!!!


I saw that manifold in this website when I was researching for a regulator parts http://www.cga320.com


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

creekbottom said:


> I love the mouse solenoid but that 10/32 size has got to be the dumbest thing ever. This manifold is great BUT WHY ARE THEY IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND!!!!!


What 10-32 fitting are you needing? They are pretty unusual as they are special for precision stuff. But since I find them handy, I just go online to order several at a time. For the barb fittings, I go to plastic supply places. When I only want a couple, I look on the auction site. 
What we often run into is that we are not the normal market for this stuff. Since we are such a small part of the business, nobody is really set up to take care of our small need. When you look at a line with 20-40 or more solenoids lined up, you can see where making it small has high value. 
When speaking to salesmen about solenoids, it is a bit hard for them to figure what I want to do with just one!


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## creekbottom (Apr 5, 2012)

I meant the manifold itself, I've got plenty of 10/32 fittings and parts. 

Has anyone ordered from cga320.com?


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ What about clippard's distributors? There is a Wainbee (distributor) location in Edmonton. 

The shipping could be expensive, there also might be a minimum order depending on the distributors.


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## creekbottom (Apr 5, 2012)

Clippard shipping is expensive anytime I've bought stuff from them. I did also call the wainbee here in town but the wait time was going to be 4-6 weeks. So I wanted to see if anyone was hoarding some of them. 

How strong do you guys think those little 10/32 fittings are? I've already got a couple of mice with the regular manifolds but I'm having trouble with the SMC AS1200 speed controller that Bettatail uses. I can't get the hose to seal in the darn thing and gas is going everywhere. I've got a regular 1/8" metering valve and wondering if I went from 10/32 to 1/8 if I'd break something.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

If I was to order one of these DV solenoids with manifold, do I want the .052 or .070 orifice? Or does it not matter?


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## tyupshaw (Mar 2, 2014)

Hi Bettatail,,,,new to Co2 but I've been doing months of research, deep research!! I was thinking about buying a dual stage stainless steel from GLA for 505.00 and that doesn't include shipping. From what I've found out so far I can get a Victor VTS-253D-320 dual stage and have someone from this forum build it with the best solenoid,needle valve ect.. . I'm hoping you're available to do it when I'm ready,,,I'm setting up an ADA 120p , Archaea lighting, my par will be around 35-40 at substrate level,,,thanks,,,,Birdman


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## Joshism (Nov 26, 2015)

I want to see someone's regulator with the Clippard DV-2M-12 solenoid. I'm thinking about getting it for my personal regulator.

http://www.clippard.com/static/images/cache/60/60c6a0817e06f557a7e0df42fe594bc95c1b16be-900.jpg


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

The DV is bigger than the mouse. They have one out now that's smaller than the mouse and sort of looks like the DV just not as nice @Joshism.


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

^ Hey!!! Very nice set up, those small manifold look way better than the larger DV ones. Did you go with the smaller orifice? I'm guessing a smaller orifice would be better, like with needle valves. With such a small difference, it probably wouldn't matter too much. Gorgeous solenoid, I wouldn't even mind paying retail for that.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

FlyingHellFish said:


> ^ Hey!!! Very nice set up, those small manifold look way better than the larger DV ones. Did you go with the smaller orifice? I'm guessing a smaller orifice would be better, like with needle valves. With such a small difference, it probably wouldn't matter too much. Gorgeous solenoid, I wouldn't even mind paying retail for that.


The one on my rig is the DV. The new smaller one wasn't yet available at the time sadly. I don't really remember which orifice I chose when I ordered it, but I don't think it really makes much different as it's only on/off and not controlling flow like the metering valve.

The smaller ones are the EM series. About an inch tall, 3/4 diameter, same 10/32 out for the manifold.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Here's a pic of one, sorry mods Tapatalk wouldn't let me attach in edit mode for some reason!


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## liquid_krystale (Feb 6, 2012)

Hey guys. I bought a mouse solenoid on fleabay with no v/c adapter. 









Does anyone know what outlet adapter I should be pairing with this solenoid? 
TIA!


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

liquid_krystale said:


> Hey guys. I bought a mouse solenoid on fleabay with no v/c adapter.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


It's either 12v or 24v. Any cheap adapter will do, I prefer the slimmer style ones. Doesn't look like it's marked. Check the description on the auction and see if it says anything. If there's any other markings, ET-2M-12(12v), -24(24v).


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## Joshism (Nov 26, 2015)

Dead2fall said:


> The DV is bigger than the mouse. They have one out now that's smaller than the mouse and sort of looks like the DV just not as nice @Joshism.


I prefer the DV over the EM, even though the DV is bigger. Oh well, I just ordered 3 DV's from a local Clippard distributor, so we'll see how it goes. I wish the wiring was cleaner though. Maybe a stylish cable plug would be nice.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Joshism said:


> I prefer the DV over the EM, even though the DV is bigger. Oh well, I just ordered 3 DV's from a local Clippard distributor, so we'll see how it goes. I wish the wiring was cleaner though. Maybe a stylish cable plug would be nice.


The DV is configurable with the small cable connector plug instead of the spade terminals. 

I think we use the spade style because it's stronger and less likely to get jacked up.


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## Joshism (Nov 26, 2015)

Dead2fall said:


> The DV is configurable with the small cable connector plug instead of the spade terminals.
> 
> I think we use the spade style because it's stronger and less likely to get jacked up.


How does one go about finding such a small cable connector plug?


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## liquid_krystale (Feb 6, 2012)

Dead2fall said:


> It's either 12v or 24v. Any cheap adapter will do, I prefer the slimmer style ones. Doesn't look like it's marked. Check the description on the auction and see if it says anything. If there's any other markings, ET-2M-12(12v), -24(24v).


Unfortunately it isn't marked, and the seller did not list the voltage nor reply to my inquiry.

Any way to find out short of testing it?


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

liquid_krystale said:


> Unfortunately it isn't marked, and the seller did not list the voltage nor reply to my inquiry.
> 
> Any way to find out short of testing it?


Start with 12vdc and see if it clicks


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Joshism said:


> How does one go about finding such a small cable connector plug?


Just choose the "wire leads" option instead of spade terminals. 

Sent from my HTC331ZLVW using Tapatalk


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## FlyingHellFish (Nov 5, 2011)

You made the right choice with the DV, those EM look like the Mouse model without the cap. 
@small wire/spade terminals

Go with the spade terminals, those small wires are impossible to reconnect if they break.


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## Dead2fall (Jun 4, 2014)

Joshism said:


> I prefer the DV over the EM, even though the DV is bigger. Oh well, I just ordered 3 DV's from a local Clippard distributor, so we'll see how it goes. I wish the wiring was cleaner though. Maybe a stylish cable plug would be nice.


I see what you ordered those solenoids for, came across you on ebay haha. Nice looking rigs you have posted on there! Good luck!


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## Joshism (Nov 26, 2015)

Dead2fall said:


> I see what you ordered those solenoids for, came across you on ebay haha. Nice looking rigs you have posted on there! Good luck!


Yeah, I did. Those Clippard DV solenoids have a clean style.


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