# Stratum KH/PH



## Quagulator (May 4, 2015)

Strutum is designed to strip the water of KH and lower pH into the mid 6's. 

Best used with GH boosted RO water only. 

You can continue to do water changes until the buffering capability of the substrate is full, and can no longer strip anymore KH. 

Crushed coral would work directly against the substrate, but would speed up the process of overcoming the buffering capability of the substrate. 

Test tapwater pH after it has sat out in a glass / bowl exposed to the air for at least 24 hours, that will be the tapwaters true pH reading.


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## en7jos (Jun 7, 2020)

Hi there,

I'm not familiar with Stratum, but I believe that it is a buffering soil substrate, right? It will therefore continually reduce the KH to near-zero until such time that it's capacity is reached (at a guess somewhere in the 3-6 month range with your tap water, if it's anything like ADA Amazonia). If you're adding KH at water changes then you are fighting against the soil, hence the pH swings. Active soil substrates are generally best used with 0KH RO water; the soil takes care of the buffering so you don't need KH and it can be zero (or thereabouts). But the resulting pH will be on the acidic side (pH 5.5 - 6.5 range depending upon the substrate). Adding crushed coral is similarly fighting against the soil and will quickly deplete it's buffering capacity.

If you're looking to deplete the soils buffering capacity and get a more neutral pH in the tank, then it will take a little time. Regular water changes with your 4 KH tap water will do the job, but will probably take a few months. Rather than keep doing water changes, you could just add a buffering (KH+) product to the tank every day or so. Adding little and often will help reduce KH / pH swings to some extent. I wouldn't use crushed coral personally as not so easy to control and predict. A KH+ product like Seachem "Alkaline Buffer" is much more controllable (non-phosphate buffers usually recommended for planted tanks). Either way, it will take a while (month or two minimum) for things to settle down. 

The soil is doing what it is supposed to do - reducing KH to zero and buffering the pH down to a slightly acidic level. You need to 'break it' with constant KH until the point that it's buffering capacity is exhausted if you want the KH to stay above zero and the pH to balance around neutral.

Hope this helps....
James


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Thanks, I only switched to this because it was less sharp for my nerites than eco complete. Also wanted to lower my PH/GH of my water. Guess I will have to rethink before getting a betta again.

Bump: Thanks, does that mean it may take a year to balance? It's been in the tank for a bit over two weeks now, I'd hate to start over but may have to. So, I could just go back to the eco complete, but didn't want to have to deal with the higher PH/GH. Is there another substrate which would give some assistance in this dept?


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## en7jos (Jun 7, 2020)

Two weeks is very early days for an active soil substrate! I only have experience with Amazonia and Stratum might be different, but I would suggest the following (very rough and quite tongue-in-cheek) timeline:

- first 2 weeks - don't even bother testing, everything will be everywhere
- 2 to 4 weeks - start to test just to check parameters are in right ballpark for cycling (e.g. pH hasn't crashed too low)
- 4 to 6 weeks - things starting to settle, light at the end of a tunnel, begin thinking about what fish you'll get
- 6 to 8 weeks - probably stable enough for livestock
- 3 to 6 months - buffering capacity could start to be exhausted if using water with significant amounts of KH

When the buffering capacity of the soil is exhausted, it seems to happen almost overnight and out of the blue, so watch for that sudden increase in KH!


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> Thanks, I only switched to this because it was less sharp for my nerites than eco complete. Also wanted to lower my PH/GH of my water. Guess I will have to rethink before getting a betta again.
> 
> Bump: Thanks, does that mean it may take a year to balance? It's been in the tank for a bit over two weeks now, I'd hate to start over but may have to. So, I could just go back to the eco complete, but didn't want to have to deal with the higher PH/GH. Is there another substrate which would give some assistance in this dept?


What problems have your parameters been causing that makes you want to buffer them down?

Unfortunately, as stated above, active substrates are best used with zero KH water - I'd say realistically 0-1 dKH in tap you should be fine.

You can get away with it if you're only using a little bit in a larger volume of water (for instance I am using a 10L bag of Controsoil in my 75, but I'm using tap 5.5 dKH water without issues as it's not enough soil to drastically change my parameters by but a couple of degrees, and the fish aren't really harmed by the mild fluctuation on water change day).

If you're unsatisfied with Eco Complete and active substrates aren't working out for you, you may consider getting a bag of black sand or pool filter sand.


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Thanks. My main issue were the amount of plants which would just melt. Sadly, I have more plants alive in the stratum than I did in a year of the eco complete. I just wanted my PH/GH to come down a little. Is it feasible to leave a thin layer of this at the bottom of the tank and place my other choice (when I find) on top of it? Like I said, just trying to lower the ph/gh a bit. I'm sorry if I'm asking too many questions, just trying to learn more. And yes, I do have a bag of aquarium sand.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> Thanks. My main issue were the amount of plants which would just melt. Sadly, I have more plants alive in the stratum than I did in a year of the eco complete. I just wanted my PH/GH to come down a little. Is it feasible to leave a thin layer of this at the bottom of the tank and place my other choice (when I find) on top of it? Like I said, just trying to lower the ph/gh a bit. I'm sorry if I'm asking too many questions, just trying to learn more. And yes, I do have a bag of aquarium sand.


You can cap it and that will limit or reduce the buffering capacity, but not eliminate it entirely.

I tried stratum before - what I liked about it was the uniform dark coloration and it's able to absorb nutrients very well, as well as buffer. What I didn't like about it was it doesn't come packed with nutrients and it's lighter than other aquasoils so it was more of a pain to plant in.

You can cap it and put a few root tabs in there with it. Only way to know for sure, if it'll work, is to try it.


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## Blue Ridge Reef (Feb 10, 2008)

I might point out here that if you cap it with sand, odds aren't good that the sand will stay on top for very long. Heavier and much small particles work their way down though larger ones, and this is accelerated with each gravel vacuuming. Just something to keep in mind; a deep enough sand layer might work if you vacuum quite shallowly.


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Good point. I know this is early in the tank and it would be a lot of work to change the substrate (probably goodbye crypts), but I'm looking long term. May switch back to eco complete, but will research more a bit. Without going Walsted, just want to find some gravel and get the tank stable.

Bump: Good point. I know this is early in the tank and it would be a lot of work to change the substrate (probably goodbye crypts), but I'm looking long term. May switch back to eco complete, but will research more a bit. Without going Walsted, just want to find some gravel and get the tank stable.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> Good point. I know this is early in the tank and it would be a lot of work to change the substrate (probably goodbye crypts), but I'm looking long term. May switch back to eco complete, but will research more a bit. Without going Walsted, just want to find some gravel and get the tank stable.
> 
> Bump: Good point. I know this is early in the tank and it would be a lot of work to change the substrate (probably goodbye crypts), but I'm looking long term. May switch back to eco complete, but will research more a bit. Without going Walsted, just want to find some gravel and get the tank stable.


Some really successful tanks are ran with inert substrate and nothing but water column dosing. If you go inert, I'd personally still use root tabs, at least in the beginning. 

More on aqua soils, I'm not convinced their nutrients are depleted or unavailable when they're no longer buffering the water. My 40 breeder has a mix of BDBS and Controsoil and my root feeders do pretty well, but the water doesn't get buffered anymore. Parameters are same as tap.

Biggest tell for me is I got really demotivated to do maintenance for the plants, and went a couple of months without dosing or injecting co2. Root feeders kept growing and propagating, even crypt flamingo.

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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Thanks, I'm new to planted tanks so really just been trying everything to keep plants from melting for a year. Yes, new, but nowhere near learned. I think I will keep the stratum in for now until I see where this goes. Would daily water changes be too much? I want to help maintain the KH for the plants in the tank. When speaking with Fluval, they said do not fertilize for a year. Made the mistake of fertilizing before I spoke with them and nitrates went up to 80. They are down to 10 now. In other words, the learning experience goes on.


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

One last question: en7jos mentioned a timeline which seems realistic. Does that mean that after stratum stops buffering that I could be right back at the tank numbers before I added stratum? If yes, then I'd just as soon take it out and choose something else. Yes I want my KH back to 4, but don't want my PH at 8. I know, I want mastery over my tank water :smile2: Thanks


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> One last question: en7jos mentioned a timeline which seems realistic. Does that mean that after stratum stops buffering that I could be right back at the tank numbers before I added stratum? If yes, then I'd just as soon take it out and choose something else. Yes I want my KH back to 4, but don't want my PH at 8. I know, I want mastery over my tank water :smile2: Thanks


Unfortunately the only way to really control tank water parameters is to use RO/DI water with 0 TDS and remineralize it/buffer it to the exact parameters you need or want.

I will tell you that, so long as your water isn't fouled, you should be able to have success with tap water. My tap is roughly a 5.5 dKH and 8.2 pH and plants grow well for me. Sure, there are certain types that I likely cannot grow, like erio's, but the vast majority are still able to grow well. I have a ton of blyxa japonica which is said to not grow well in water with high pH or dKH...but it's almost out of control in my tank. Unless you're willing to go the RO/DI route, it's recommended to work with your water rather than against it.


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Thanks. I am not looking to grow so-called picky plants. I may have jumped into this too quickly by reading a lot of hype about stratum and tearing out my old substrate. I just realized today that in six months i may be right where I was at before I put stratum in. It's good for me to hear that you can grow plants in your water conditions. I'll consider this a learning experience and now see what I can do to put the tank back in balance. I would put my eco complete back in but that defeats the purpose of looking for a smoother substrate.


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## Quagulator (May 4, 2015)

fishie777 said:


> I would put my eco complete back in but that defeats the purpose of looking for a smoother substrate.


If you like the dark look, and want a super smooth, easy to plant into substrate that costs less than $20, look into coal slag (black blasting sand). 

If you want stability using your tapwater, this is a good option for you.


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

I was looking at that, just can't leave the house and didn't want to order a 50# bag. That's my only glitch.


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## Quagulator (May 4, 2015)

fishie777 said:


> I was looking at that, just can't leave the house and didn't want to order a 50# bag. That's my only glitch.


Check local aquarium groups, classified sections etc. Sometimes people get rid of it with an old tank or something. 

50lb bags are a bit of a pain for smaller tanks but... sandblasting industry vs aquaria industry :wink2:


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Will do. Thanks :smile2:


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Blasting sand: I think I found it at tractor supply. Is this the medium blasting? Do I need to add root tabs immediately? I do have some micro grass and stem plants, but mainly bucs and anubias. Thanks


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## Quagulator (May 4, 2015)

fishie777 said:


> Blasting sand: I think I found it at tractor supply. Is this the medium blasting? Do I need to add root tabs immediately? I do have some micro grass and stem plants, but mainly bucs and anubias. Thanks



That’s the stuff. In the states the brand most people use is Black Diamond Blasting sand in the medium grit. Give it a good rinse in a bucket first. 

No root tabs needed at all, just a good quality water column dosing regime is all you need, especially for buce and anubias. 


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

Wow, in reading and reading (multiply by 100), I get so many different stories. I've really come to the conclusion better to work with my water. Don't get me wrong, if I had space for an RO, I'd get it. 
In my low tech tank I need to see how to use my water. As a note; I had eco complete in my tank for 14 months. Cons: too sharp for me. My plants melted, even Crypts (no, never came back). Not one stem ever grew roots. I did have a wisteria which lasted six months. I assumed it was my water hardness. Now I'm wondering if it's the fact that I never added nutrients until the year mark. I was told not to.
Learning experience: Just because a company tells you something, doesn't mean it's true.


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> Wow, in reading and reading (multiply by 100), I get so many different stories. I've really come to the conclusion better to work with my water. Don't get me wrong, if I had space for an RO, I'd get it.
> 
> In my low tech tank I need to see how to use my water. As a note; I had eco complete in my tank for 14 months. Cons: too sharp for me. My plants melted, even Crypts (no, never came back). Not one stem ever grew roots. I did have a wisteria which lasted six months. I assumed it was my water hardness. Now I'm wondering if it's the fact that I never added nutrients until the year mark. I was told not to.
> 
> Learning experience: Just because a company tells you something, doesn't mean it's true.


That's 100% because of a lack of nutrients. Some people suggest letting fish poop essentially compost and feed your plants in coarser substrate like that, but I don't think that's really an optimal way to do it.

Is it doable? Absolutely. But it takes a long time to do it properly as the nutrients need to build up over time. I'm a fan of fertilization because it's proven to work. 

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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

When I started this process 14 months ago I would call the companies who made the products and ask their suggestions. Amazing how wrong the advice was. My head has been spinning on this. It's worse than politics, what's right and what's wrong. I grow a lot of houseplants and I know they cannot live without some type of nutrients. I feel more confident now because all along I thought it was my water, not nutrient related.
Okay, so I'm going to get the black diamond tonight, wash like crazy. Biggest question: I already changed the substrate once to stratum, now to black diamond, will my tank have to recycle? Other than plants, nothing else in there for 3 weeks. I put some water from my nerite tank in it today. I did not change the filters out. Thought about going out to get another nerite for the tank but don't want to kill it. Any thoughts?


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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

*Ph/gh/kh*



Quagulator said:


> Strutum is designed to strip the water of KH and lower pH into the mid 6's.
> 
> Best used with GH boosted RO water only.
> 
> ...


I let the tap water sit in an open container, numbers pretty consistent, KH 4 GH 8 and PH 8


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> When I started this process 14 months ago I would call the companies who made the products and ask their suggestions. Amazing how wrong the advice was. My head has been spinning on this. It's worse than politics, what's right and what's wrong. I grow a lot of houseplants and I know they cannot live without some type of nutrients. I feel more confident now because all along I thought it was my water, not nutrient related.
> 
> Okay, so I'm going to get the black diamond tonight, wash like crazy. Biggest question: I already changed the substrate once to stratum, now to black diamond, will my tank have to recycle? Other than plants, nothing else in there for 3 weeks. I put some water from my nerite tank in it today. I did not change the filters out. Thought about going out to get another nerite for the tank but don't want to kill it. Any thoughts?


If you have a cycled filter with sponges, squeeze a dirty sponge into the tank. The layer of scunge left on the bottom of the tank will help too.

Using only water from an established tank won't do much as most of the bacteria lives on surfaces rather than in the water column.

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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

varanidguy said:


> If you have a cycled filter with sponges, squeeze a dirty sponge into the tank. The layer of scunge left on the bottom of the tank will help too.
> 
> Using only water from an established tank won't do much as most of the bacteria lives on surfaces rather than in the water column.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


Okay, I am also setting up a 5 gallon to put one of my nerites in. He's in a planted 3 gallon now. I've got his future filter with the old media running in the 10 gallon, with the old filter (both HOB) and a sponge filter in the 10 gal tank. Just trying to build some bacteria. I put some Tetra SafeStart plus in there, but without fish/snails doubt there will be enough ammonia for it. I hear people talk about adding ammonia but not sure on that.
THANKS


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> Okay, I am also setting up a 5 gallon to put one of my nerites in. He's in a planted 3 gallon now. I've got his future filter with the old media running in the 10 gallon, with the old filter (both HOB) and a sponge filter in the 10 gal tank. Just trying to build some bacteria. I put some Tetra SafeStart plus in there, but without fish/snails doubt there will be enough ammonia for it. I hear people talk about adding ammonia but not sure on that.
> 
> THANKS


I've done the add ammonia method. It works. Just make sure it's pure ammonia without scent or soap.

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## fishie777 (Nov 5, 2020)

varanidguy said:


> I've done the add ammonia method. It works. Just make sure it's pure ammonia without scent or soap.
> 
> Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk


In the "old" days we used to add a pellet of food. Is that old school? I bought pure ammonia just need to read how much to use. 
Thanks


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## varanidguy (Sep 8, 2017)

fishie777 said:


> In the "old" days we used to add a pellet of food. Is that old school? I bought pure ammonia just need to read how much to use.
> 
> Thanks


No problem! Adding food to decay and create ammonia is still a common method too. 

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## Aquascaper1 (Jan 17, 2020)

I suggest to not go all out and change your substrate. If you do, you basically start all over again.

Why not keep you current substrate and just consider how you can supplement to it?

Whether you have low-tech or "picky" plants, all plants like light and Carbon. KH provides an indication if there may be enough carbon for your plants to thrive. 

I suggest sticking with your substrate and adding products such as Seachem Aquavitro KH Carbonate and Acid and Alkaline buffers. 

In my case, I do a 50/50 mix of RO water to filtered tap water + 1 tsp KH Carbonate + (1/8) tsp Acid Buffer with a touch of Prime in a 2.5 gallon container. I had experimented with different trials and this works betst for me. Mixing in the RO water helps reduce the GH value in my case. Experiment with a container trying different ratios until you get close to the pH, KH, GH values you would like to have.


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## JeffreyD (Jun 4, 2020)

I am a total amateur at this, however, I learned my lesson this past year about trying to fight the buffering of Stratum. A few weeks after installation I got a betta and he was very happy. After that, I kept trying to adjust because the PH and KH seemed "wrong" but in reality, there was nothing wrong with the aquarium. Plants were growing, with no algae problems. 

If you need specific parameters then by all means adjust as appropriate. However, I think you're better off, in the long run, keeping everything stable vs a constant adjustment battle. Your livestock and plants will thank you.


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