# Bubbles always in my eheim filter



## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

Anybody had this happened to their filter before?
My eheim 2213 keep harvesting bubble in the filter for some reason. Its been like this for one week... I already tilt and shake the filter but the bubbles will come back the next day or two. These bubbles seems to lower the output of my filter...

Any help?


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## alkatraz (Jul 28, 2012)

Is it possible your inlet is sucking in small bubbles of air from an air stone/diffuser or perhaps even from the outlet?


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## Bubba Shrimp (May 7, 2012)

shouldn't not the intake, check your lines and make sure the seal on the canister is tight. Meaning when you turn the control valves and disconnect it it should give you resisance when you pull off the lid of the canister. If it just polps off then its a seal problem.


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## Bubba Shrimp (May 7, 2012)

make sure it seal good I have the same filter.


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## chou (Feb 23, 2012)

I think i know why. My eheim 2232 use to do that too. It would just gobble some air bubbles every few seconds to minutes. This lasted for a good month or so before I did things differently.

Q1 : Do you fill the filter up with water before attaching the head component? If no, my eheim filter would suck in the water leaving spots inside the filter with air bubbles, making that gobble sound. It can also be the sponge itself cause its porous and can hold a lot of air bubbles.

A1: I filled the eheim up half with water w/ the head component off and holding down the filter and shaking it side to side to release and air bubbles. 

I did that for every time I cleaned out my filter and now it has stopped making that sound.

I also did a test to see if i was right and i was. Til this day it doesn't gobble air bubbles no more. I didn't take it apart or anything just filled the filter up before returning it back to the tank

lol. i just wrote a book


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Do a check of the directions on setting up the lines and you may find there is a problem with that. The lines should not have sections which sag so that air is left in them on startup. Also the directions specify "no water in the canister" on startup. Many people do have problems due to this. 
If it is set up by the directions and there is still air entering, you have a leak in the lines or around the canister head seal. One of those basic things. If the air clears from the canister as it is designed, the intake is under water when it starts drawing and still air winds up in the canister, there has to be a leak. What often happens is a failure to follow the directions carefully.


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## sayurasem (Jun 17, 2011)

chou said:


> Q1 : Do you fill the filter up with water before attaching the head component? If no, my eheim filter would suck in the water leaving spots inside the filter with air bubbles, making that gobble sound. It can also be the sponge itself cause its porous and can hold a lot of air bubbles.
> 
> A1: I filled the eheim up half with water w/ the head component off and holding down the filter and shaking it side to side to release and air bubbles.
> 
> ...





PlantedRich said:


> Do a check of the directions on setting up the lines and you may find there is a problem with that. The lines should not have sections which sag so that air is left in them on startup. Also the directions specify "no water in the canister" on startup. Many people do have problems due to this.


I found this two opinions contradicting...

To fill or not to fill the filter first and then prime it?
Today I will open the filter clean everything and see if the problem still persist.


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## mott (Nov 23, 2006)

Just my 2c I always prime with the can empty, just make sure the input has water in it and its submerged. wait till it fills then pop the output on before water spurts all over the place lol always works for me


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

This is a link to the 2213 manual:
http://www.f3images.com/IMD/UserManuals/EH2213.pdf

This is a quote from that manual:

Important: When the filter media need cleaning or changing and the filter
is taken away from the aquarium, please note the following points
1) The filter must have no water in it when reconnecting to the aquarium.
2) The pressure hose to the spray bar must be drained of water and the
tap (if fitted) left open.


Item 1. Seems clear. It is often not read and a source of problems for people who have trouble priming their canisters.


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## jslmsca (Jun 24, 2011)

3) After connections are made the tap on the suction side can be opened
(it holds the syphon). Water will flow into the filter expelling all air out
of the spray bar, eliminating air locks and ensuring a perfect prime.

Does that mean to clean you close the tap on the suction side, unplug the filter, clean and replace the media, drain water from the pressure side and reattach to the spray bar, plug the filter, and open the tap?

"Perfect prime" would be nice but having just installed my first 2213, it wasn't so perfect...


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## PlantedRich (Jul 21, 2010)

Correct. You will get a perfect prime every time but only if the line from the canister to the tank is empty as they show. It can often be done without the output empty IF there is not slack in the lines so that bubbles are not all forced out and replaced by water. I don't empty my output lines but I also know to look for spots where the lines are not run correctly. To get the "perfect " prime mentioned without fail, the directions work. 
We can shortcut things if we know what to do when we screw it up but if we want to do it without second thoughts, we need to follow the directions.


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