# Combine two 55 gallon tanks... What'cha think?



## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

OK, so I have acquired 2 55 gallon tanks over the short period of time that I have had fish. I was able to get both of them (with all kinds of accessories) for super cheap. Also, please keep in mind my weekly budget is limited for fish spending 

Well, I keep looking at them and thinking how awesome it would be if i could combine the two in some form to make a larger play ground for my fish and inverts... I've gone through the idea of making a water bridges and the such, and while that idea is cool, i don't want to drop a whole lot of money into it as a project. If i'm going to spend money, i want it to be on plants (which i'm slowly acquiring)

So, I was talking with a buddy of mine about some of the other ideas of my combining the tanks, not really thinking they'd be possible because of water pressure and the like, and he mentions someone who has taken 12 glass panels and made a large almost square short tank using glass supports and metal brackets siliconed on for extra strength...

Well, i downloaded Google Sketchup and started mocking some things up. It will be a while before I can do ANYTHING because I have so many factors at play here, and i will have to figure out something to do with my fish while the silicone is curing. Any who, I wanted to see what you ladies and gents thought and get your 2 cents. Let me know what you think.

all will have glass supports siliconed to the top

EDIT: Ok, I've fixed my pictures so that they are hopefully clearer, again... I'm sorry for rushing and trying to get everything on one snapshot. Hopefully the below is better.


PLAN A
4' wide x 2' deep x 2' tall

PLAN B
8' wide x 1' deep x 2' tall

I also toyed around with making an L shape with them too, but haven't mocked anything up yet. :icon_roll

From the front










From the bottom


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

I don't understand the sketch. Are you planning an 8 foot long, 2 foot depth, 2 foot high tank? That would use a 2 piece front (unlikely to work), a plywood back, one front cut in half for the two ends, and what for the bottom?


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## fplata (May 20, 2012)

You are looking to flood your room. Have fun with the two tanks as two


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Hoppy said:


> I don't understand the sketch. Are you planning an 8 foot long, 2 foot depth, 2 foot high tank? That would use a 2 piece front (unlikely to work), a plywood back, one front cut in half for the two ends, and what for the bottom?


Ha, I did the sketch up and typed this in a hurry during my lunch break, thanks for asking for the clarification. Normally I would have separated the three in separate snapshots, and I will update them as soon as I get a chance. 

There are three different tanks in the sketch:

the top one has the plywood back and uses 4 side panels on the sides, 2 front panels for the front, and I was thinking the two bottom pieces with the two back pieces, but thinking it through... that won't work because the back is taller than the sides are deep, it would have ended up 2 feet deep and 2 feet tall by 8 feet long. 

The second one (bottom left in the first picture we'll call it "plan A" ) is basically taking one panel (front/back) off each tank and joining them where the removed panels were. It would make it 2' deep by 4' long by 2' tall

The third (bottom right in the first picture, "plan B" ) takes one of the side panels off each tank and joins them where the panels were removed. this would make it 12" deep by 8' long by 2' tall. 

As soon as I get back on my laptop, I will fix the below pictures, i'm sorry for the confusion.


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## Merth (Sep 9, 2012)

I think u would probably be better off selling your two 55's and buying a 110


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## Neatfish (Jun 22, 2012)

Maybe have 2 different set ups in an L shape?


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Merth said:


> I think u would probably be better off selling your two 55's and buying a 110


Unfortunately, I would be lucky to get half the price of a 110 gallon tank for BOTH the 55 gallons I have. Tanks in general do not sell well where I live, especially second hand. They're even hard to give away at times :hihi:


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Neatfish said:


> Maybe have 2 different set ups in an L shape?


I really like this idea, I just can't wrap my head around it... The glass is tempered, so i would be unable to cut it as it is.


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

fplata said:


> You are looking to flood your room. Have fun with the two tanks as two


Yeah, i do understand the risks with something like this. But there's something I just can't resist about combining them... one is sitting off to the side with nothing in it just BEGGING me to combine it with the other... There's nothing I can do, but obey!


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## james1542 (Sep 8, 2011)

The sides shouldn't be tempered. You could connect them with a 6" clear PVC pipe tunnel!, Get some big time bulk heads, and find a 6" hole saw!

At the very least, you could set them next to each other in whatever config you like (L shaped, end to end, side by side), raise one up 6 inches, then drill the upper tank develop some clear acrylic spouts to put in the hole, and rig a canister filter to suck water out of the lower one, and pump it to the upper.


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Neatfish said:


> Maybe have 2 different set ups in an L shape?


I just realized you said 2 different setups. I'm such a dork... I really would like the extra room for the fish.

Sent from somewhere unknown to man...


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

james1542 said:


> The sides shouldn't be tempered. You could connect them with a 6" clear PVC pipe tunnel!, Get some big time bulk heads, and find a 6" hole saw!
> 
> At the very least, you could set them next to each other in whatever config you like (L shaped, end to end, side by side), raise one up 6 inches, then drill the upper tank develop some clear acrylic spouts to put in the hole, and rig a canister filter to suck water out of the lower one, and pump it to the upper.


I didn't realize the sides wouldn't be tempered... I'm going to go do the LCD test, I really wanted to see if that worked anyway. 

Sent from somewhere unknown to man...


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Maybe your friend was talking about this build?
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185857

I think either of you plans could work. I build a rimless 41gl that was
cut out an old 70 with 3/8" glass.

From what I've learned I'd tell you not to run more than 24" length without a brace if the glass is 1/4" @ 24" T. If you drop the height to 16 you would be safe with 3' between cross bracing.

I think for plants your 1st idea might be best. You could cut up the glass not being used for corner braces. Look at CrazyDaz's 200tank


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## lochaber (Jan 23, 2012)

It sounds pretty risky to me. 

I think it would probably be cheaper and easier to just build a really huge water bridge out of acrylic or glass (I'm thinking something a foot wide)

plus, if it fails, you only end up with a couple gallons on the floor, and isolated tanks (as opposed to hundreds of gallons, and no tanks).

or if you went with james1542 suggestion, you might be able to rig up a really large (and slow) archimedes screw type pump, that way organisms could be transported up without harm.


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

I really admire what Izabella87 has done, she just might have some ideas for you on how to combine the pieces of glass you have.

I would do this if I was in your boat. Really neat build.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=97329&highlight=fish+bridge


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks much! This is exactly the kind of info I was looking for!

And YES, that is the lady he was talking about, it Is an incredible aquarium.



DogFish said:


> Maybe your friend was talking about this build?
> http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=185857
> 
> I think either of you plans could work. I build a rimless 41gl that was
> ...




Sent from somewhere unknown to man...


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## GeToChKn (Apr 15, 2011)

Combing 2 pieces for the sides or the front is not going to work at all. The seam will be the weak point and burst half way through filling it, if that. It may work in the linked build, but she only did it on the bottom, not the sides. Silicone 2 pieces of glass next to each other and watch how easy you can bend it.

Instead of being able to setup 2 55gals for your fish and inverts, you are going to have 10 pieces of glass and no tank. Be happy with the 2 55gals, work on a bridge system, save for a new tank, something but don't destroy 2 tanks in something that isn't going to work.


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

Ditto GeToChKn:
A bridge or some other system that keeps the tanks structurally sound is best. Trying to join glass in a flat plane is not a good way to make a strong wall that you need for an aquarium. As a bottom you could get away with it because not only do you set the 2 pieces next to each other, but you also get more glass to sandwich the joint for strength. That would look really ugly, though, for sides, and even worse for the front. 

Maybe work on the water fall idea.


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks, I appreciate the advice. These tanks were pretty much being disposed of originally, I found them and took them under my wing... I'm not against the water bridge idea, but it would be a last resort. If I end up not joining them into a larger tank I will likely leave them as separate environments.

I just like solving puzzles and tackling challenges, this it's definitely a challenge (and I'm quite handy). I would never do anything unless I knew for certain it wouldn't explode all over the place. And I would never bring it inside without thoroughly testing first. I would also have a backup plan if something DID go wrong, I can't have my fish in 5 gallon buckets while I try to figure out what to do with them 

But I like these comments too, they keep me thinking 


GeToChKn said:


> Combing 2 pieces for the sides or the front is not going to work at all. The seam will be the weak point and burst half way through filling it, if that. It may work in the linked build, but she only did it on the bottom, not the sides. Silicone 2 pieces of glass next to each other and watch how easy you can bend it.
> 
> Instead of being able to setup 2 55gals for your fish and inverts, you are going to have 10 pieces of glass and no tank. Be happy with the 2 55gals, work on a bridge system, save for a new tank, something but don't destroy 2 tanks in something that isn't going to work.




Sent from somewhere unknown to man...


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## mcfly84 (Nov 13, 2012)

I drew this crudely but the combination design could possibly do the best for what you're wanting to do. It would be the same as the bridge design only you'll be attaching them together with out the bridge(oviously).

One important thing to note is if you do combine them like that then you'll will want to redo the rim around both bottom and top to retain the rigidity. Also you'll want to seal where the two tanks meet in the middle by applying a small beade of silicon between both tanks and also applying a smoothed beade on the edges once the are joined. 


This is of course assuming they're square to begin with. If they aren't square I would go with the acrylic bridge design.


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

No Guts....No Glory!~

The best part about Izabella87's tank is she didn't listen to all the 
people that would Poo-Poo'ed her creativity.

I've thinking about your puzzle combinations. I think this might
be possible. Replace the 4 side pieces that are 12x24" with two 
of the long pc 24x48". Use the 4 - 12x24" in the middle of the bottom.
This will give you a 48x48x24" tank that will hold 239gl.

If I was going to try this I would build a base from cabinet grade 
hardwood plywood with a 1x3" frame around the base. The frame 
be decretive not structural. The base will re-enforce all the bottom 
joints.

I'd also use yoga mats between the Plywood aquarium base and the
tank stand just to help to keep the tank level. 

Good luck which ever path you choose. Please consider doing a journal
on this project..


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## fplata (May 20, 2012)

Just keep physics in mind. You can not cheat physics and 100 gallons of water weight 800 pounds and create lots of pressure. be creative and do your research. No disrespect, but the no guts no glory approach might be near sighted when building tanks


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## Diana (Jan 14, 2010)

I like DogFish's idea: No seams on the sides, and lots of support where you are making seams, where it does not show.


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## Firemedic269 (Oct 10, 2012)

Good luck, I hope it works. But just out of curiousity; how's your insurance?


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Thanks for all the comments guys, I'll have to look over the 48" x 48" suggestion, sounds interesting. And no worries to those warning me of the potential disaster, I would only do this if I can scientifically prove it would work. I usually err on the side of caution when it comes to these things. I know a few people that have physics degrees and or are a structural engineer, so I could run my final plans by them before even testing the ideas.

Rest assured I will do a journal, but with the given possibilities, I may have to postpone any builds add I hope to be moving soon, and don't fancy moving a newly built 48" x 48" tank 

These are great ideas and comments from everyone, and please don't hesitate to call my stupid from wanting to try, I need those Rio keep me in line some times  all comments are appreciated and welcome, I love you guys and respect your knowledge!

Sent from somewhere unknown to man...


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

Diana said:


> I like DogFish's idea: No seams on the sides, and lots of support where you are making seams, where it does not show.


Thank you.

As an after thought, you could run a 2" strip across the top of the seams of the two original bottom 12x48" panes were they will butt up to the 4- 12x24" panes to reduce you lateral flex point. Although I do feel the plywood sheet underneath will be enough. That will be further re-enforced by stand top.


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## mcfly84 (Nov 13, 2012)

Honestly the more I think about it the combination probably wouldn't serve too well when considering glass thickness it would be very very fragile. If it wasn't on a solid base just a sag in the floor or stand over time with all of the weight would find a weak spot and come crashing out not to mention something bumping into one of the long panes. As far as the seams go at the joint of the two tanks like I vaguely showed above; you could easily hide with proper scaping and display point of the aquarium. 

Glass thickness is key to combining them.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27814

The guy in the link above provided great information in his build journal.

If the glass is too thin then I would consider making a bridge.

A 6x6 trough at the top leaving a 2-4in gap between the tanks would be better but you'll want to try and save the rim around the top. I personally wouldn't try going bigger than that. I'd like to add that if you did the bridge then I would beef up the glass or acrylic(which ever you choice you make) thickness and use the correct silicone definitely do not cheap out on that part.

Like I said before it just comes down to the thickness of the glass.


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Wow, everyone here is full of great knowledge and supportive scenarios! 

I few other things i should mention. I am not against building a frame for the tank to cover up and/or add to supports along the seams, edges, or the top/bottom. I have access to some free Osage Orange. I'm not terribly concerned about having a thin bead of silicone on the seams -meaning I am willing to do a large bead to ensure stability- , i'll do what it takes to make it safe if i go down that route. Dont get me wrong, i will make is as attractive as possible too


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## bibbster (Oct 26, 2012)

Here's another thread you may want to check out, though the thread is old, you may be able to contact the members and get more input. I posted to bring the thread back up to the top so maybe someone will post some updates.

http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=172228


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## DogFish (Jul 16, 2011)

drazend said:


> ....I few other things i should mention. I am not against building a frame for the tank to cover up and/or add to supports along the seams, edges, or the top/bottom. I have access to some free Osage Orange...



I Love/Hate that Wood. I believe it is the most dense North American Hardwood. I have in in the riser of two of my Recurve Bows and as grips for my S & W 325NG .45acp revolver. 

I've made a few small hunting related items out of it. What a headache to work with. I think I actually dulled out a File on it. :icon_roll

I do like how it changes color over time too.


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

If you try DogFish's idea for a 48" x 48" x 24" tank, it will be as strong and safe as a standard 55 gallon tank. The weakest glass is the longest glass, and you will be using those from a proven safe design tank, so they are strong enough. The bottom, I agree again with DogFish, that putting reinforcing pieces of glass across the seams, on the inside, will work fine, even if you don't use a fully supported bottom, but just an edge supported bottom. You will want to silicone seal the whole overlap area, so that will be a very strong joint. And, of course, you will want to Eurobrace the sides to take the place of the standard 55 gallon cross brace.

The only problem I see are having to make a stand that will be adequate and look good, and having to move such a large, awkwardly shaped tank. Good luck, and I hope you try this and report on it.


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

HA, I know exactly what you are talking about, my father-in-law is a bowyer (self-wood/long bows), and loves making things in general with wood. While he uses all kinds of woods, osage is his go-to wood for bow making. He recently got a connection with someone where he has the potential to get as much as he wants from someone's fence row.

He has used it for so many things that now it's a running joke that if something is broken he can fix it with osage. :hihi:

You are right though, it is tough to work with, especially if you get wood from one of the slower growing trees, the growth rings are TIGHT on those jokers! :icon_eek: It is pretty cool how the color changes with age too, he has several bows ranging from a few weeks to 15+ years (i think) old all looking like they come from a different type of wood (based on the color).

Nice revolver BTW 

Back to topic, knowing the density/durability and longevity of this wood I think I could use it as a frame in addition to glass supports, in my head I have it worked out to look nice as well as being functional.  and aside from time, it would be no cost to me, so it would keep the "upgrade" cost down considerably.




DogFish said:


> I Love/Hate that Wood. I believe it is the most dense North American Hardwood. I have in in the riser of two of my Recurve Bows and as grips for my S & W 325NG .45acp revolver.
> 
> I've made a few small hunting related items out of it. What a headache to work with. I think I actually dulled out a File on it. :icon_roll
> 
> I do like how it changes color over time too.


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## kamikazi (Sep 3, 2010)

I like dogfish's idea as well. The biggest hurdle I see is the euro cross bracing the hoppy mentioned. 

It will have to cross both front to back and side to side. What would prevent the euro brace from caving in at the middle where the two cross?

I think it is definitely possible to do this way though.


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

I will definitely keep bracing in mind, I really don't want to create a mess 

I agree with you that the sheer size of the thing might make it difficult to find a place for it... It's almost as big (aside from the height) as the cube I work in! :icon_eek:

One other member mention thickness, this is my biggest concern at the moment, I have no difficulties with my ability to support the tank so that the siliconed seams do not separate, but the thickness... Well, i can't do a thing about that without buying new pieces. It's tempered, so I know technically it can be thinner than non-tempered glass and withstand more pressure, but I have to do some figuring to determine HOW much. :icon_roll

Crossing the braces is another hurdle for the 4' x 4' tank... But I may be able to use a methodology similar to izabell depending on the thickness of the cross braces. AHH, unless I can find someone with a broken tank, I would have to BUY cross pieces for bracing... Seems like I have a lot of thinking to do.

It is looking like I won't do ANYTHING with this until after we move (our house isn't even sold yet, so there's no ETA). I'd like to take it with me if I spend a lot of time working on it, I just couldn't stand leaving it behind... This is going to drive me crazy until I can get my hands on those panes of glass!



Hoppy said:


> If you try DogFish's idea for a 48" x 48" x 24" tank, it will be as strong and safe as a standard 55 gallon tank. The weakest glass is the longest class, and you will be using those from a proven safe design tank, so they are strong enough. The bottom, I agree again with DogFish, that putting reinforcing pieces of glass across the seams, on the inside, will work fine, even if you don't use a fully supported bottom, but just an edge supported bottom. You will want to silicone seal the whole overlap area, so that will be a very strong joint. And, of course, you will want to Eurobrace the sides to take the place of the standard 55 gallon cross brace.
> 
> The only problem I see are having to make a stand that will be adequate and look good, and having to move such a large, awkwardly shaped tank. Good luck, and I hope you try this and report on it.


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## In.a.Box (Dec 8, 2011)

Will work on smaller tanks. putting 2 55 together mean taken one of the side glass off and using silicone to hold them together. One way or another the middle will leak, you can duck tape it and will still leak.

Try this idea

take all the glass off and just use the bigger size.

Your tank foot print should be 
48" L x 24" W x 21" H

bottom
2 48"x12 = 48x24
front-back
48x21
side-side
24x21

you will end up cutting one 48x12 in half for the 2 side.

Silicone the 2 bottom glass will be fine and leak save if only the flood or stand is flat must be 100% flat
Use left over glass to build smaller tank or use it to make a glass top


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## Hoppy (Dec 24, 2005)

Eurobracing is horizontal strips of glass along the front, back and side panels, resulting in a smaller open top on the tank. It isn't cross braces. Those horizontal strips convert the glass panels to sort of I beams, so they are reinforced against bending, which is the problem with long panels of glass. You would need to buy those strips of glass, say 3 inch wide 6 mm glass, and cut them to fit well inside the top of the tank. Ideally they would be mitered on the ends, but I don't think that is necessary at all. (Now that I think about it, if the tank bottoms aren't tempered you could cut those into strips, but they probably are tempered.)


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## bibbster (Oct 26, 2012)

Here you go, this proves it can be done...

http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/f...08426-55-55-29-139-gallons-and-10-5-feet-long

And a spoiler alert pic...


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## drazend (Sep 17, 2012)

Eurobracing wouldn't be that bad of an idea, and I kind of like the way it looks 

It looks like I'm not the first to have this idea though :icon_cry: A friend of mine sent me a link and it seems someone else beat me to the punch. Kind of like my idea for turning a 55 gallon on it's side for a 4' long x 24" wide x 12" tall tank (a buddy of mine wanted to do a bottom feeder tank and was looking for a cheap short tank).

If you are interested in how it turned out for the other people that joined 2 55s and 1 29 gallon tank here's the link. It hasn't leaked as far as I know, but the last update was in March.

I know having the wooden brace down the middle will "obstruct the view" but it honestly won't bother me. If I were doing it for a show tank, I would just start saving for an upgrade 

Thank you everyone for your comments and assistance with my insane idea!
roud:


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## mcfly84 (Nov 13, 2012)

Well I have some new found insight after doing a little reading and checking out that link you provided. All in all you should be fine as long as you're patient and very meticulous during construction. The weight of the water shouldn't be a problem as long as the glass isn't in a bind when filling with water. Any configuration you choose should work as long as you don't try to increase the height of the tank using only the glass you have from the provided aquariums. I would look at the DIY all galss build in the link I provided to get the silicone he uses. Eurobracing would totally work too if done properly. Also if you did the seams properly you could get away with using glass as the bracing on the sides instead of wood.


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## driftwoodhunter (Jul 1, 2011)

You people are dangerous. Izabella87 started it for me, you guys have pushed me over the edge. Following all the links through to the MFK build that combined two 55s and a 29 has my brain churning like a squirrel on crack. I have a friend who owns a glass shop. Another dear friend gave me an early Christmas present of a table saw. I will lay in bed all night thinking of ways to make custom shaped tanks with hardwood frames - LOL


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