# green water?



## ADJAquariums (Jul 5, 2012)

green water is excess nutrients in the water column that has caused an algae bloom, It's farily common to see and just takes some water changes and something that will take the nutrients out of the water column, plants that float do a good job at that.


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

Wow, that's crazy... cause I've *never* added nutrients to the water column, and this tank has been established for many years (I'm only now getting into the plant thing). My substrate is plain old gravel. And the green water started after I added the light, but before I started with the substrate tabs.

(flourish excel isn't _nutrient_, is it?)

thanks for the info, though - gives me something to work with!


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## gSTiTcH (Feb 21, 2013)

If it were me, I would cut the photo period in half at least and reduce fertilization until you have the materials for the third 'leg' of the plant stool.


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

Why didn't I think of that? Bumms me out a little, though - I used to run a 20w fluorescent 24/7 (lots consider that bad, I know. I've stopped). With this aquatic LED it's only on 8hr/day... and now i'm going to 4? boohooo

c'mon ups man! daddy needs his needle valve and solenoid!!


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## ADJAquariums (Jul 5, 2012)

fish waste can also contribute to the nutrients in the water colums, I think the root tabs may also leach nutrients but im not sure on that, nothing to worry about though, cutting the photo period in half really only needs to be temporary, you can slowly raise the time it's on when your problem goes away, and if it comes back then consider keeping it reduced. Correct me if i'm wrong there


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

after thinking on it, i'm not going to change my light period as things stand now. it's good advice, and I'll do it if my problem worsens - but as it is, twice weekly 25% water changes keep the tank looking good. the water's not *crystal* clear, but i'm not ashamed to have people over or anything.

it'll actually be interesting to keep all parameters the same and then hook up the co2 and see if that, by itself, stabilizes everything! in theory i should be good at that point. might be late next week, though - all my parts are shipped except fabco in florida. doesn't even look like they've processed or shipped my order, 3 days after placing it. hmmmm. they sure processed my credit card quick enough. :icon_roll


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## Kathyy (Feb 22, 2010)

My plants hit the wall at 6.5 hours of light a day, depending on what plants you have you may be better off shading the tank and leaving the lighting period at more like 8 hours a day. Bit of window screen or raise the light will reduce the intensity of your new light.

My GW was related to no nitrate with lots of CO2 and light the first epic bout and the rest of my episodes were after disturbing the tank which likely released some ammonia and my filter wasn't up to the task. I could get rid of the GW by allowing the floaters and stems to build up on the surface to dim the light but until I got much better bio filtration it always returned. 

You might prune any dying leaves, vacuum the substrate to get debris off the surface and rinse out the filter media too. A long established tank has more organic matter than it really needs, take some out.


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## Aquatic Delight (Mar 2, 2012)

send me some of that green water! lol i've got plenty of filter feeders that would love to have some


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## CrypticLifeStyle (Jan 16, 2013)

If you have a way to test phosphates check that. A uv is amazing in keeping that from happening in the future.


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## thenameless (Dec 12, 2011)

in my case it was too much light from sunshine...just added some curtains and few water changes and everything was back to normal


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

i just got my phos test kit yesterday! took a reading this morning - it's around 2ppm. I'm gonna have to read up on exactly what that means and where I wanna be and what to do about it.

UV light in freshwater? wow... this planted tank rabbit hole gets pretty deep, eh?? 

thanks for the comments!


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## AlyeskaGirl (Oct 6, 2011)

WheeledGoat said:


> i just got my phos test kit yesterday! took a reading this morning - it's around 2ppm. I'm gonna have to read up on exactly what that means and where I wanna be and what to do about it.
> 
> UV light in freshwater? wow... this planted tank rabbit hole gets pretty deep, eh??
> 
> thanks for the comments!


Phosphates do not cause algae. That is not the problem. That is a good reading actually. PO4 is a necessary macro nutrient for plants. 

You've got an imbalance like you said between light, co2 and fertz. Too much light could be the culprit. But I am not familiar with the LED fixture you have. 

I had a persistent algae bloom in my tank and I couldn't figure out the cause and then I did. It was from excess nutrients; iron in my case. UV Sterilizer took care of it and never to return again after decreasing my Micro dosage.


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## dtejeda.arias (Mar 5, 2013)

... Jealous ... I want green water . Do you have the tank place on direct sunlight?


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

nope, no sunlight whatsoever, just the Marineland Aquatic Plant 24" @ 8hr / day... and every single one of my plants have new growth all over (moneywort, hairgrass, crypt, amazon swords, java moss, and another that I forgot/don't know the name - has long stems, medium width long leaves and has a spikey-ball looking thing in the middle of the flowers).

thanks for the info on phosphates. I also added a nitrate test kit to my arsenal yesterday (in addition to the standard ph, kh, ammonia, nitrite, and gh freshwater array). it's not necessary to be able to test copper and other traces, is it??


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## MSG (Jul 16, 2012)

I have a flower vase that I keep on my windowsill for misc plants & other trimmings. The water is totally green now. Is it safe to add some of that to my fish fry tank with a band of half dozen shrimp? 

I'm assuming the green color is some sort of microbes that fish/shrimp/snails will feed on??

OP I have no idea what to suggest. My vase is about half/gallon & gets only sunlight. The other vases by the same window sill are NOT green. 


WGoat.... How many gallons is your GREEN tank?


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

The tank is a 29g. It's not as noticeable just looking at the tank anymore, but the imbalance is apparent when you siphon into a white bucket. 

With twice weekly water changes, regular pruning and full-dosing Flourish Excel (I was just 1/2 dosing it), it seems I've found the formula to successfully keep it at bay until I can get my co2 running and this tank firing on all cylinders. Here's a screenshot from just tonight.


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## Zlookup (Mar 3, 2013)

Would notice slight hint of green in my water during changes as well but after playing around with my photoperiod, found that 4 hrs on, 8 off, 4 on works for me. Adding floaters and stems helped as well. Have been able to even lower lights more now with no issues. Will continue to gradually lower further slowly and see what I can get away with.


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## gSTiTcH (Feb 21, 2013)

Zlookup said:


> Would notice slight hint of green in my water during changes as well but after playing around with my photoperiod, found that 4 hrs on, 8 off, 4 on works for me. Adding floaters and stems helped as well. Have been able to even lower lights more now with no issues. Will continue to gradually lower further slowly and see what I can get away with.


Heh. My greenwater problem started when I added a siesta in the middle of my photo period. Took that out and the water is crystal clear. I can see the individual fish poops now!:biggrin:


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

Zlookup said:


> Adding floaters and stems helped as well.


 
forgive me, but adding "stems" as in long-stemmed plants? I understand that floating plants would help because they take nutrients from the water column; stems do the same?


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## OVT (Nov 29, 2011)

WheeledGoat said:


> forgive me, but adding "stems" as in long-stemmed plants? I understand that floating plants would help because they take nutrients from the water column; stems do the same?


Yes, everybody got to eat.
You need more plants 


via Droid DNA Tapatalk 2


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

OVT said:


> You need more plants


 
that's the best news I've heard all day! that's all the excuse I need; i'll have to stop by the lfs on the way home and pick some up!


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## herns (May 6, 2008)

WheeledGoat said:


> Wow, that's crazy... cause I've *never* added nutrients to the water column, and this tank has been established for many years (I'm only now getting into the plant thing). My substrate is plain old gravel. And the green water started after I added the light, but before I started with the substrate tabs.
> 
> (flourish excel isn't _nutrient_, is it?)
> 
> thanks for the info, though - gives me something to work with!


IME, too much light period also cause green water.


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## puopg (Sep 16, 2012)

+1 on more plants. UV also will solve all green water issues.


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## Zlookup (Mar 3, 2013)

Yes, more plants makes a big difference for sure ... especially on the enjoyment factor . Anything that is considered a fast grower should do well for you. A few swords wouldn't hurt either though I hear they start to be more of a problem in sucking up too much nutrients as they get larger.


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

If your having GW issues get a UV. There's just so much upside to it. I have never had any issues with plants and I ran one 24/7 on two different tanks for years. If your dosing micros w/iron on a regular basis there won't be an issue. 

Your water will be so clear you'll have to look twice to see if THERE is water, your fish will acclimate better and have less disease when their stressed and open to infection and you'll have more wiggle room with parameters and if you accidentally stir up the bottom. Many professional installers and aquascapers use them to avoid potential problems.


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

i've never looked into a UV light; always subscribed to a _natural balance_ way of thinking - I always kinda assumed the UV would kill good bacteria along with the bad and throw it all outta whack (even though I know the vast majority of cultures are in the filter media... i guess i never though too much about it).

this weekend i'm gonna cut up my cannister's output line to include this co2 reactor - I could easily toss a UV in there while I was at it.

so there's no downside to a UV?


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## MSG (Jul 16, 2012)

*One Negative about UV is price....*

It's about $50-$100 for the MOST basic model. Elaborate ones will run into the $100's. Not sure about the "UV Sterilizers" they offer at the LFS & if they are effective or a waste of money.

I think I've seen the LITTLE green machine if that's what it's called @ PS.

I too like to keep it NATURAL & simple whenever possible. 


Definitely think you need more plants. The ones you are currently growing in your tank are SLOW growing varieties. 


Look for some red ludwigia so it adds a bit of color into your setup.


When you buy the plants make sure you inspect, QT them for at LEAST a week & if necessary TREAT them so you don't introduce any UNWANTED hitchhikers.


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## WheeledGoat (Mar 17, 2013)

it's nice to hear opinions that are similar in regards to my penchant for the natural and simple!

but i ordered a uv light anyway... $35 got me this one on amazon, free Prime shipping! A few reviews called into question the ability to obtain replacement bulbs for that unit, but I figure even if I can't this is a good way to stick a toe into UV light and see if I wanna drop >$100 on it.

Thanks for the suggestion for red ludwigia - I'll def have to pick some up (tho I don't remember seeing that in any of the LFS I frequent, nor do I see any for sale in the swap shop here. I'll keep an eye out.) I've also zeroed in on glossostigma, but I change my tank around every month or two, so I gotta make sure I stick to plants that don't mind being moved... (i.e. I don't see my crypt lasting... lol)


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## houseofcards (Mar 21, 2009)

I wouldn't worry about the whole natural balanced thing. I don't really see the UV as any different than injecting c02 and in some aspects simply using a filter. These are closed systems and they need assistance in many ways. To create balance sometimes means to compromise, by putting additional stems/plants in you don't want and using less light which might limit certain plants, etc. The benefits for the fish alone is worth it.


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